Husk restaurant is `a way of life`

Transcription

Husk restaurant is `a way of life`
LOCAL NEWS
WEDNESDAY, MAY 22, 2013
THE TENNESSEAN
COME GET YOUR
HANDS DIRTY
Join The Tennessean and Hands
On Nashville for the next
monthly volunteer project:
working in the BELL Garden. Go
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to learn more about the June 15
event and to sign up.
UNIONS CHEER DEAN
Fire and police union leaders applauded Metro pay increases. On 3B
Same-sex unions see gains
Poll shows about
half of state accepts
couples’ recognition
By Chas Sisk
The Tennessean
About half of Tennesseans support legal recognition of same-sex
couples, an apparent shift in their
views as states throughout the
country have moved toward allowing gay marriage.
A poll conducted this month for
Vanderbilt University found that
49 percent of Tennesseans support
gay marriage or civil unions while
46 percent are opposed to both,
suggesting the state is now evenly
divided on whether to extend legal
recognition to same-sex couples.
Meanwhile, 62 percent of Tennesseans said health insurance and
other employee benefits should be
extended to the domestic partners
or spouses of gays and lesbians.
Thirty-one percent oppose the idea.
The poll emerges after Minneso-
ta, Rhode Island and Delaware this
month became the latest states to
adopt gay marriage, bringing the
number nationwide to 12. The results also come as the U.S. Supreme
Court weighs whether to strike
down state bans on gay marriage.
“This is kind of consistent with
the national trend,” said Josh Clinton, associate professor of political
science at Vanderbilt.
The poll results suggest a
marked shift in Tennesseans’ views
» POLL, 3B
VANDERBILT
HIRED PRINCETON
SURVEY
GAY RIGHTS
IN TENNESSEE
Among registered voters
Research Associates International sampled the views
of 1,000 Tennesseans, including 813 registered
voters, using landlines and
cellphones May 6-13. The
poll carries a margin of
error of 4 percentage
points.
Don’t know,
or refused
Support civil unions
17%
5%
Oppose
legal
recognition
Support
gay marriage
46%
32%
Source: Center for the Study of Democratic
Institutions, Vanderbilt University
MICHAEL CAMPBELL / THE TENNESSEAN
Tea party
protesters
fight IRS
‘tyranny’
UNIQUE SETTING
By Emily West
The Tennessean
Radio personalities and local politicians braved a midday downpour Tuesday to vent their frustrations through a
bullhorn in front of the federal building
as a part of a nationwide protest against
the Internal Revenue Service’s targeting of political groups.
More than 150 supporters gathered
with signs lambasting the government,
and people lined the Broadway sidewalk
holding their yellow “Don’t tread on me”
and American flags.
The IRS has given extra scrutiny to
the tax-free status of groups with conservative phrases in their names, including Tennessee groups in Hamilton,
Roane and Williamson counties. The
IRS commissioner was forced by the
Obama administration to resign last
week.
“I am livid, and we have been livid for
years,” said Mishelle Perkins of 9.12
Project Tennessee. “We must save this
republic for our children. This IRS is
tyranny. We cannot forget this.”
Among the crowd was Republican
Rep. Joe Carr of Lascassas. He said the
Obama administration used the IRS for
its own gain.
“Parts of the tea party groups were
unnecessarily and maliciously maligned,” Carr said. “It appears that Obama used the IRS as a club to manipulate
what now appears to be the 2012 election. The IRS in no manner should be
used in political purposes.”
Questions about who knew what
when in the Obama administration must
be answered, said Ben Cunningham,
Nashville Tea Party president.
Dan Latimer, general manager of Husk Nashville, straightens a table at the restaurant, which is set to open Thursday. Food lovers have
been eagerly awaiting Husk’s opening. DIPTI VAIDYA / THE TENNESSEAN
Husk restaurant
is ‘a way of life’
Eatery’s
opening
could help
enhance
city’s
culinary
landscape
By Jennifer Justus
The Tennessean
Watching the team of
about 50 workers move
around the 19th-century
home in Rutledge Hill that
would soon open as Husk restaurant felt like being inside a
time-lapse video.
The raised garden beds
were being watered to the
beep of a nearby Bobcat as
servers gathered in the carriage house out back tasting
20 white wines and listening
to a seminar by the local potter who created the dinnerware. Meanwhile, the music
inside Husk squealed with table saws and drills and thudded with boots up and down
the dining room stairs. Above
it all, Sinatra-style tunes
floated through the dining
room.
But when the doors to this
highly anticipated restaurant
open Thursday, the backhoes
will be gone and the jazz that
» HUSK, 6B
IF YOU GO
What: Husk Nashville
Where: 37 Rutledge St., Nashville
Hours: Dinner service begins Thursday. Hours are 5:30-10 p.m. SundayThursday and 5:30-11 p.m. Friday and
Saturday. Lunch and brunch begin
June 3. Lunch, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.
Monday-Friday, and brunch 10
a.m.-2:30 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.
Private dining begins July 15.
Cost: Dinner, $20-$29; lunch, $9-$15.
Contact: 615-256-6565 or
www.husknashville.com
GET A LOOK
For more restaurant news
and to see a photo gallery
from Husk Nashville, visit
Tennessean.com/Taste.
NEIGHBORHOOD
GROWTH
On the drawing board: More than
200 new apartments are being
planned for the Rutledge Hill
neighborhood.
Ted Kornblum of Murfreesboro holds a
flag Tuesday at the tea party protest at
the federal building on Broadway. JOHN
PARTIPILO / THE TENNESSEAN
Bobo family slams TBI over official’s tweet
They accuse agency
of ignoring their pain
By Brian Haas
The Tennessean
Holly Bobo’s parents, Karen and Dana Bobo, far
right, gather as grandmother Donna Goff holds a
sign. The family was upset over a tweet sent by the
TBI spokeswoman. JOHN PARTIPILO / THE TENNESSEAN
The family of missing Tennessean
Holly Bobo on Tuesday accused the
Tennessee Bureau of Investigation of
ignoring their pain after what they
call a “very inappropriate, very unprofessional” tweet by the agency’s
spokeswoman.
The tweet, by TBI spokeswoman
Kristin Helm, referred to a story on
Saturday detailing the TBI’s criti-
REPORT NEWS 259-8068 OR FAX 259-8093 OR E-MAIL LOCAL@TENNESSEAN.COM
What if
you knew
your child
was
going to
college?
cism of a Brentwood nonprofit’s involvement in the investigation and
WSMV-Channel 4 reports on the
group’s findings.
Helm posted a picture on Twitter
showing The Tennessean’s story
about the controversy with the caption, “Great way to start off my day
and the coffee is brewing.”
Bobo’s mother said Tuesday that
the tweet appeared to be “sounding
victorious,” while her daughter remains missing.
“I do feel like the big picture has
been lost and that picture is finding
my daughter,” said Karen Bobo,
standing on the steps of the state Cap-
itol. “If this is an example of how TBI
feels about my daughter’s case, then I
do think there is a conflict of interest.”
Helm later apologized and said the
tweet was from her personal account.
The tweet has since been deleted.
“The tweet from my personal account was referring to the content of
the article, not directed at the case,”
she said in an email. “If it was construed as hurtful which was not its intention, I apologize. It does not reflect
any opinion of TBI or my work, only
my own personal thoughts after
» TBI, 3B
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6B
■
x
WEDNESDAY, MAY 22, 2013
LOCAL NEWS / FROM PAGE ONE
THE TENNESSEAN
Midstate may get
2nd day of storms
NANCY
VAN CAMP
DAN
THOMAS
Today
LISA
SPENCER
80
High
5 p.m. 10 p.m.
Scattered
t-storms
Rain &
t-storms
73
76
THU
Scattered
t-storms
80
FRI
SAT
69
SUN
MON
Wind: WNW
5-15 mph
Wind: N
5-15 mph
Wind: NE
Wind: S 4-8
mph
Wind: SW
5-15 mph
60/77
52/72
55/78
58/82
60/83
4-8 mph
National forecast
0s
Wed., May 22, 2013
10s 20s 30s 40s 50s 60s 70s 80s 90s 100s 110s
Showers
T-storms
Rain
Flurries Shown are noon positions of
weather systems and
Snow
precipitation. Temperature
Ice
bands are highs for the day.
Travel forecast
National
Today Thurs.
City
Albany
85/67/t
Albuquerque 86/57/s
Anchorage
57/43/pc
Atlanta
84/66/t
Atlantic City 80/66/t
Austin
92/68/pc
Baltimore
87/68/t
Billings
68/48/pc
Birmingham 86/64/t
Bismarck
66/42/pc
Boise
61/40/pc
Boston
78/63/t
Chrlstn, S.C. 84/67/pc
Charlotte
84/65/t
Chattanooga 86/63/t
Cheyenne
70/42/pc
Chicago
74/50/t
Cincinnati
82/60/t
Cleveland
82/61/t
Columbus
84/62/t
Dallas
88/68/s
Denver
75/45/pc
Detroit
79/59/t
Fort Myers
87/71/t
Hartford
86/66/t
Honolulu
86/70/pc
Houston
89/72/t
Indianapolis 78/58/t
Jackson
86/65/t
Jacksonville 86/66/t
Kansas City 70/49/pc
Knoxville
87/63/t
Las Vegas
92/69/s
Little Rock
86/63/t
Los Angeles 74/58/pc
Louisville
82/62/t
Madison
68/50/t
Memphis
86/64/t
Miami
86/75/t
Milwaukee 66/48/t
Minneapolis 56/45/c
New Orleans 84/71/t
New York
85/68/t
Oakland
69/50/s
Oklahoma City 86/61/s
Omaha
64/49/c
Orlando
89/70/t
Panama City 84/67/pc
Philadelphia 88/69/t
Phoenix
101/77/s
Pittsburgh
86/63/t
Portland, Me. 69/59/c
Portland, Ore. 51/44/r
Providence 78/63/t
Raleigh
85/67/t
Richmond
88/68/pc
Sacramento 74/44/s
St. Louis
78/57/pc
79/57/t
90/56/pc
60/46/s
86/59/pc
75/61/t
91/67/pc
82/60/t
77/51/pc
86/58/pc
69/46/pc
66/40/pc
72/60/t
86/67/t
85/59/t
84/56/pc
70/48/pc
58/45/sh
71/45/t
68/43/t
73/45/t
90/71/pc
68/51/pc
61/40/sh
90/71/t
77/58/t
87/72/pc
89/69/pc
67/42/c
88/60/pc
89/66/t
71/50/pc
80/55/pc
85/66/s
84/58/pc
71/58/pc
73/47/t
63/37/pc
81/56/pc
88/76/t
57/44/sh
67/45/pc
87/69/pc
79/61/t
66/49/pc
81/60/t
71/49/pc
91/69/pc
83/68/t
81/60/t
100/72/s
75/46/t
74/57/t
61/48/sh
74/61/t
85/62/t
84/59/t
75/47/pc
70/48/pc
Fri.
68/43/r
89/57/s
63/48/s
77/53/s
75/50/c
90/67/pc
70/49/c
80/49/s
78/52/s
69/52/pc
69/48/pc
66/49/r
87/57/pc
77/48/pc
75/49/s
80/49/pc
63/37/s
66/43/s
57/37/pc
63/39/pc
85/69/c
86/51/pc
61/40/s
91/71/t
72/48/r
88/73/pc
89/68/pc
66/45/s
81/53/pc
88/63/pc
72/55/pc
70/44/s
91/69/s
76/56/pc
71/56/pc
70/48/s
66/44/s
73/54/pc
89/75/pc
59/44/s
70/53/s
87/66/c
69/54/c
66/53/s
79/64/c
71/55/pc
90/70/t
84/63/pc
71/53/c
100/72/s
60/40/pc
68/45/r
65/44/sh
72/48/r
77/50/pc
77/48/c
78/50/s
70/49/s
Nashville today
Heat index
8 a.m.
79°
noon
84°
5 p.m.
Stationary
Today Thurs.
City
Salt Lake City
San Antonio
San Diego
San Francisco
San Jose
Seattle
Tampa
Tulsa
Wash., D.C.
W. Palm Bch
Fri.
Hi/Lo/W Hi/Lo/W Hi/Lo/W
83/54/s
91/72/pc
68/60/pc
66/50/s
70/49/s
52/44/r
88/72/t
82/59/pc
87/70/t
84/73/t
79/46/pc
91/70/pc
68/58/pc
64/50/pc
68/48/pc
62/46/sh
87/72/t
80/56/t
81/60/t
86/72/t
74/54/s
90/70/pc
68/57/pc
65/52/pc
69/50/s
64/45/sh
89/73/t
78/61/pc
74/50/c
86/73/pc
International
City
Hi/Lo/W Hi/Lo/W
Today
Thurs.
Hi/Lo/W
Fri.
Amsterdam
Athens
Auckland
Bangkok
Beijing
Berlin
Bermuda
Bogota
Brussels
Buenos Aires
Cairo
Calgary
Copenhagen
Dhahran
Dublin
Geneva
Hong Kong
Jerusalem
Johannesburg
Kabul
London
Madrid
Mexico City
Montreal
Moscow
Nassau
New Delhi
Paris
Rio de Janeiro
Rome
St. Petersburg
St. Thomas
San Juan
Seoul
Singapore
Stockholm
Sydney
Tokyo
Toronto
Vancouver
Vienna
Warsaw
Zurich
58/42/pc
86/69/pc
64/55/pc
95/80/t
86/64/pc
55/39/r
76/67/s
63/47/t
57/39/c
63/45/pc
95/73/s
58/43/sh
59/45/r
106/80/s
55/39/c
58/37/sh
88/79/t
83/63/s
68/43/s
90/59/s
65/41/c
72/49/pc
85/58/pc
75/63/r
62/49/r
86/77/t
115/85/pc
63/40/c
78/69/sh
76/56/r
66/48/r
85/78/sh
82/76/t
81/59/pc
90/79/t
65/53/r
64/52/r
81/68/pc
72/57/t
56/47/c
68/47/sh
69/50/sh
54/37/sh
54/44/r
86/63/t
63/51/sh
96/81/pc
88/70/s
60/38/c
76/68/s
68/49/t
50/35/r
64/50/pc
99/74/s
55/44/r
60/49/pc
101/81/s
51/40/sh
58/40/r
88/79/t
87/68/s
68/43/s
92/60/s
54/42/sh
74/52/s
84/57/pc
72/46/r
61/52/r
87/76/t
116/87/pc
55/41/r
75/67/sh
73/54/t
61/47/r
87/78/pc
85/77/t
84/61/pc
88/79/t
58/50/r
64/55/r
77/63/s
66/41/t
60/47/sh
60/46/pc
65/49/c
56/34/r
51/43/r
82/65/s
61/48/s
97/80/t
82/63/pc
62/42/sh
76/68/pc
67/49/r
52/40/r
63/41/pc
104/72/s
54/42/r
61/51/r
104/82/s
53/39/c
52/39/c
88/81/t
92/68/s
67/43/s
90/59/pc
55/44/c
75/50/s
83/57/pc
59/43/sh
71/55/sh
88/74/pc
115/88/pc
55/42/c
74/66/sh
69/56/s
66/53/r
87/78/pc
87/77/pc
84/61/pc
90/79/t
56/53/c
66/50/r
79/59/s
59/40/pc
62/50/sh
58/42/r
60/46/pc
53/32/sh
Barometer at 7 a.m. .. 29.85 in.
Air Quality Index
Source: Nashville.gov
An indication of
how it feels based
on humidity and
actual temperature.
Graph indicates
highest reading for
the day.
71°
Cold
Warm
s-sunny
sf-snow flurries
sh-showers
pc- partly cloudy r- rain
sn- snow
c-cloudy
t-thunderstorms i-ice
Hi/Lo/W Hi/Lo/W Hi/Lo/W
Yesterday’s aqi: Particulates
Today’s aqi forecast
Highest
5 p.m.
Allergy Index
Main allergen: Grass, Tree
Source: Nashville.gov
Temperature (°F)
Yesterday’s high/low ........ 86/66
Normal range, today ........ 80/59
Record high, today .. 95 in 1941
Record low, today .... 41 in 2002
High one year ago ................. 78
Low one year ago ................. 58
Moonrise/set
Precipitation
24 hours ending 5 p.m. ..... 0.17”
Month to date .................... 2.62”
Normal month to date ....... 3.88”
Deficit for month ............... 1.26”
Year to date ..................... 24.29”
Normal year to date ........ 19.68”
Surplus for year ................. 4.61”
Sunrise/set
Sunrise today ......... 5:36 a.m.
Full
Last
New
First
Sunset today .......... 7:52 p.m.
May 24
May 31
Jun 8
Jun 16
Sunrise tomorrow .. 5:35 a.m.
Moonrise today ...... 5:18 p.m.
Moonset today ....... 3:35 a.m.
Tennessee lake levels
As of 7 a.m. yesterday
Old Hickory
Percy Priest
Center Hill
Lake Barkley 359.10 ft SSW 8-16 mph
Cordell Hull 503.60 ft SSW 7-14 mph
Ky. Lake
358.97 ft SW 8-16 mph
Lake
Level
Winds
445.50 ft SSW 8-16 mph
491.20 ft SSW 7-14 mph
640.66 ft SSW 8-16 mph
Lake
Level
Winds
Forecasts and graphics provided by AccuWeather, Inc. ©2013
Local forecast provided by WSMV-TV Channel 4
TENNESSEAN
Restaurant uses Southern ingredients
» HUSK FROM 1B
Partly sunny, Mostly sunny
Partly sunny,
Partly cloudy Partly cloudy
t-showers and pleasant
t-storm
-10s -0s
A police officer directs traffic after a storm Tuesday
knocked out power in parts of Murfreesboro.
Residents may face more storms today with even
the possibility of tornadoes, a forecaster said. “We
expect storms to continue with the potential for
some to be severe,” National Weather Service
meteorologist Sam Herron said. “We expect storms
to taper off by (Wednesday) evening.” JAE S. LEE / THE
Wind: SW 5-15 mph
10 a.m. Noon
Scattered
t-storms
PAUL
HEGGEN
warmed up the speakers
will give way to a groove
more at the heart of this
place — Lucero, Drive-By
Truckers, George Jones.
Husk, as chef Sean
Brock will say, isn’t just a
Southern restaurant, “it’s
a way of life and a culture
— it’s a collection of theories and ideas.”
Brock, who opened
Husk in Charleston, S.C.,
with Neighborhood Dining Group in 2010, has a
set of rules firmly in
place. Ingredients can
only come from the South
(he buys Georgia olive oil
and uses rare, heirloom
fruits and vegetables, for
example). The menu
changes twice a day, every day.
Partly because of this
commitment, Bon Appetit
named Husk the best new
restaurant in America the
year after it opened.
Brock, 35, has been the
subject of an 11-page profile in The New Yorker,
and he recently made the
shortlist for Outstanding
Chef nationwide at the
James Beard Awards.
So, obviously, Husk in
Nashville has caused
quite a to-do. It has been
called one of the 40 most
anticipated openings in
the country by Eater.com,
and even Vanity Fair posted about Brock’s Nashville hot chicken research.
Food lovers all over the
South might have shared
their last sip of Pappy Van
Winkle for the promise of
Husk taking root in their
city. But Brock said he
never considered putting
his second location anywhere but Nashville.
“When we decided we
were going to expand the
idea of Husk into a different city,” he said, “this
was the first place, the
only place, we talked
about, really.”
And it’s a decision that
could help elevate Nashville to even more of a dining destination.
“It speaks to how much
we’ve grown,” said The
Hermitage Hotel’s Tyler
Brown, who worked with
Brock previously. “I think
we have a lot to be proud
of in that respect. The future is bright, and it can
only make us stronger.”
Husk employs a team
of almost all locals (with
the exception of Chef de
Cuisine Morgan McGlone
of Husk in Charleston and
a couple others). David
Howard, president of
Neighborhood
Dining
Group, the restaurant’s
managing company, said
that the restaurant industry collectively trains the
people of a city. As restaurants improve, so does the
talent. The culinary industry and the farming industry also grow simultaneously, noted general
manager Dan Latimer.
Already, the culinary
landscape has changed
dramatically since Brock
led the reopening of Capitol Grille in The Hermitage Hotel after its renovation in 2003. “It’s a totally
different city,” Brock
said. “It’s not even close to
what it was 10 years ago.”
“People are just excited about where they’re
from and excited about
their roots and their heritage, and you see that happening all over the place
and definitely here,”
Brock said. “There are all
these young business people who are doing really
cool artisanal things …
And even cool stuff like
Barista Parlor. Ten years
ago, there’s no way that
would have been here.
Now, you see young people taking chances and
starting businesses based
on their own specific passions and it’s been really
cool to see. It’s very inspiring. You see people
chasing their dreams.”
But in bringing Husk to
Nashville, the team almost gave up when they
couldn’t find the right location. As Latimer noted,
Husk couldn’t just be
stuffed into the bottom of
a shiny, new high-rise.
“We looked for a long
time, secretively, and
couldn’t find a place with
that feel that you could
only get from a 19th-century home,” Brock said.
“The floors have to creak
a little, and it has to be a bit
quirky. And it has to have
a certain feel, because
that’s what the food is
about. That’s what the service is about. That’s what
makes it so unique.”
‘Common ground’
Latimer, who also
opened Husk in Charleston, has a spot at Husk
Nashville where he can
feel the overall restaurant
vibe. It’s at the top of the
stairs looking to the open
kitchen on his right, to the
dining room below and
over the gardens out back.
It’s where he can see, he
said, but also feel that elusive restaurant energy —
a balance of anticipation,
attention, relaxation.
With about 80 seats and
12 in the bar (it’s 25 percent smaller than Husk in
Charleston), the restaurant is divided into pockets that provide a variety
of experiences: quiet
front rooms, a walk by the
kitchen and down to an
open dining room and separate cozy bar. Modern
touches blend with easy
earth tones and accent
walls painted like the insides of a purple sweet potato that Brock might unearth for future service.
“We’re drawing on history and looking to the future and finding the common ground in that,” Latimer said.
As for the house’s past,
which previously held Andrew Chadwick’s restaurant, Latimer can tick off
the history like a downtown tour guide.
Built between 1878 and
1882, the Italianate-style
home was once occupied
by former Mayor Richard
Houston Dudley. He held
his inaugural party at the
home, so it already has
hospitality in its bones.
The area also was developed by transplants who
moved to Nashville from
Charleston in the 1800s
and chose this spot on the
hill to keep watch on riverboat business below.
“The
preservation
mentality is very much a
driving factor in our cuisine,” Latimer added.
“Husk is a celebration of
Southern ingredients.”
The day we visited,
chefs had been out to
Bells Bend Neighborhood
Farms, and Brock said
he’s excited to work with
The Barefoot Farmer at
Long Hungry Creek Farm
and Bear Creek Farms,
for example, in addition to
purveyors they’ve been
using in Charleston —
Benton’s hams and Cruze
buttermilk — as part of
their strict guidelines.
“But that’s why we did
it that way, so we had to
support the right people
and not give ourselves the
option to go to a produce
company and cook that
food,” Brock said. “We
want to cook food that’s
fresh and vibrant.”
Brock, who you might
find sporting a “Virginia
Is for Lovers” hat (representing his home state),
with a colorful vegetable
patch of tattoos down his
left arm, has committed to
staying in Nashville until
the restaurant has found
its footing. He even
seemed antsy to get in the
kitchen.
Meanwhile,
Howard who worked on a
laptop in a makeshift office, paused to advise a
construction crew on matters of asphalt and to act
as a tour guide to the restrooms where newfangled
Dyson fixtures had just
been installed.
If Brock seemed ready
to cook, Latimer and Howard seemed eager to
throw open the doors and
welcome guests.
“Time’s up,” Howard
said.
And Nashville is sitting
on ready.
Reach Jennifer Justus at
259-8072.
Walk-in Bathtubs
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