Are You in A new York StAte of wine? p.74 View the

The DirTy SecreTS anD Deep
Flavor oF Black Garlic p.91
Mentaiko at Do or Dine =
DevileD eggs squareD p.87
The New face of pasTry
At BlAncA p.47
Are You in A new York
StAte of wine? p.74
Brooklyn, a Shot in the
arm for New York DiNiNg
p.3
A SnAil’S TAle: LumacheLLe
Pasta technique p.48
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WHY
CHEFS USE
FEATURES
3
Letter from the Editors
37
How to Bake America
77
87 Mentaiko and Deviled Eggs 47 The New Face of Pastry at Blanca 48 A Snail’s Tale: Lumachelle Pasta Technique
74 New York State of Wine
NYC Brewing Industry:
A Resurgence of Choice
Squared
89 A Textural Surprise to Honor
Mr. Ramos
91 The Dirty Secrets and Deep Flavors of Black Garlic
94 Punches, Daisies, and
Pre-Speakeasy Advocacy
2013 NEW YORK RISING STARS
CH EFS
4 Justin Bazdarich
Speedy Romeo
6
PJ Calapa
Ai Fiori
8 Leah Cohen
Pig and Khao
10 Justin Hilbert
Gwynnett St.
14 Matt Lightner
Atera
16 Joseph Ogrodnek & Walker Stern
Battersby
20 Angelo Romano
The Pines
Q UE NT IN B ACON PHOTOG R AP H
22 Justin Smillie
Il Buco Alimentari e Vineria
CONCEPT
58
Joe Carroll
Fette Sau
COM MUN ITY
60 Michael Chernow & Daniel Holzman
The Meatball Shop
R E S T A U R AT E U R
64
Noah Bernamoff
Mile End
M I X O LO G I S T S
66 Jeff Bell
PDT
68 Jillian Vose
Death + Company
SOM M ELI ERS
26 Dale Talde
Talde
70 Emilie Perrier
Ai Fiori
28 Michael Toscano
Perla
72 Thomas Pastuszak
The NoMad
HOT E L CH E F
BREW ER
P A S T RY C H E F S
F E AT U R E D G U E S T C H E F
40 Malcolm Livingston II
wd~50
EMCEE
30
34
Abram Bissell
The NoMad
Ashley Brauze
DB Bistro Moderne
44 Katy Peetz
Blanca
76 Rich Buceta
SingleCut Beersmiths
80
82
Hillary Sterling
The Beatrice Inn
Elizabeth Falkner
Krescendo
VI P CH EF
S U STA I N A BI L I T Y CH E F
“QUALITY AND CONSISTENCY, JUST LIKE MY TEAM.”
JOSH THOMSEN
EXECUTIVE CHEF/PARTNER
50 Evan Hanczor
Parish Hall
M EN TOR CH EF
A RT I S A N S
of
AGRICOLA EATERY | PRINCETON, NJ
54 Aurélien Dufour
Daniel Boulud Restaurants
56
TEL
(80 0 )
884 -JAD E
|
W W W.JA D ERA NGE.COM
84 German Calle
Petrossian Restaurant New York
86 Wylie Dufresne
wd~50
Zachary Golper
Bien Cuit
Stay connected with StarChefs.com and Rising Stars Magazine. Scan to subscribe today!
N EW YORK 2013
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PASTRY CH EF
STRAWBERRY-LIME CHIFFON, FROMAGE BLANC
SORBET, STRAWBERRY MERINGUE, STRAWBERRIES,
AND BASIL
ASHLEY
BRAUZE
DB Bistro Moderne
PASTRY CHEF ASHLEY BRAUZE OF DB BISTRO MODERNE – NEW YORK, NY
ADAPTED BY STARCHEFS.COM
55 West 44 Street, New York, NY 10036
(212) 391-2400 | dbbistro.com/nyc
th
YIELD: 20 SERVINGS
I NGREDI ENTS
Ashley Brauze grew up surrounded by
simple, satisfying comfort foods, and
her first foray into the industry was a job
rolling bagels at Bruegger’s Bagel Shop. But
a culinary school degree from Johnson &
Wales in Charleston, South Carolina, and
a revelatory trip to New York City would
change all that. As a tourist, Brauze dined
at Daniel Boulud’s Restaurant Daniel, and
instantly fell in love with fine dining.
Strawberry Filling:
790 grams strawberries, hulled and sliced
200 grams lemon segments
Zest of 1 lemon
90 grams sugar
15 grams silver gelatin sheets
Strawberry Meringue:
1 kilograms strawberry purée
22 grams egg white powder
372 grams egg whites
11 grams silver gelatin sheets
74 grams sugar
FAST FACTS
PHOTOGRAPH BY SHAN NON ST URGIS
Favorite tool: I love my OXO
501 food scale and my air
compressor—I spray a lot of
chocolate!
Tool you wish you had: Pacojet
and a rotary vacuum evaporator
Favorite cookbook: Matière
Chocolat by Stéphane Leroux
and Chocolate Book by Ramon
Morato
Where you want to go for
culinary travel: I’m torn
between returning to Cadaqués,
Spain to check out Compartir
by Oriol Castro, Eduard
Xatruch, and Mateu Casañas
of El Bulli or going on a
gastronomic tour of Lyon.
Strawberry Mousse:
30 grams silver gelatin sheets
640 grams heavy cream
1.065 kilograms strawberry purée
130 grams yolks
85 grams sugar
Strawberry Consommé:
500 grams strawberries, sliced in half
30 grams sugar
Juice of 1 lemon
Strawberry Gelée Ribbon:
10 grams silver gelatin sheets
777 grams strawberry consommé
194 grams Sherry vinegar
5 grams agar agar
Basil Gel:
1 liter basil purée
40 grams sugar
6 grams agar agar
To Assemble and Serve:
1 pint strawberries, hulled
Sherry vinegar
Sugar
½ cup micro basil
I S upport
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STARCH EFS.COM RISI NG STARS
Having worked in top pastry kitchens on both sides of the Atlantic, Brauze gained
top-notch skills and experience that she brought back to the Boulud empire with a
role at Café Boulud with Raphael Haasz. Today, she is the pastry chef at DB Bistro
Moderne, where she consistently creates dessert menus that blend the restaurant’s
bistro ethos with her own sophisticated elegance and creativity.
PHOTOGRAPH BY ANTOI N ETTE BRUNO
@ ASH LEYBRAUZE @ DBBISTRONYC
Citymeals-on-Wheels
5
She packed her bags and moved to the city,
returning to Daniel in 2005. Brauze began
a world-class pastry education crafting
petits fours under Pastry Chef Jean François
Bonnet. In 2007, Brauze and her husband, fellow Daniel alum Chad Brauze, were
both invited to work at Ferran Adrià’s El Bulli in Spain, where Brauze worked
alongside Pastry Chef Albert Adrià on dishes for his celebrated cookbook, Natura.
Upon returning to New York City, the couple spent a year cooking at Per Se.
Fromage Blanc Sorbet:
400 grams water
370 grams sugar
3 grams ice cream stabilizer
240 grams low-fat yogurt
400 grams sour cream
500 grams fromage blanc
35 grams lime juice
50 grams lemon juice
Lime Chiffon:
250 grams flour
290 grams sugar
12 grams baking powder
2 grams salt
150 grams egg yolks
25 grams grapeseed oil
Zest of 2 limes
1 vanilla bean, split and seeds scraped
150 grams egg whites
115 grams water
N EW YORK 2013
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LUMACHELLE TECHNIQUE
1.With a pasta machine, roll pasta dough into 1/8-inch sheets.
2.Cut into ¼-inch x 10-inch long strips and brush with egg wash.
3.With a thin wooden dowel, about the diameter of a pencil, take the
pasta strip and roll it in concentric circles down the length of the
dowel, making sure the overlap of the rings are the same the entire
length down the dowel.
4.When the whole strip has been rolled, slide the pasta off of the dowel,
and place upright to partially dry.
ALUMACHELLE
SNAIL’PASTAS TECHNIQUE
TALE:
BY MOLLY HANNON | PHOTOGRAPHY BY SHANNON STURGIS
There’s a pasta shape for every village in Italy with native cooks
crafting endless combinations of water, flour, and eggs. For Chef
de Cuisine Adam Nadel of New York City’s A Voce Columbus,
growing as an Italian cook means exploring these village specialties
one pasta shape and technique at a time.
Researching historic pasta types, Nadel encountered lumachelle
from Italy’s Le Marche region. “We do a lot of research into our
pastas, and this was a rather obscure shape that I thought would be
fun to interpret,” says Nadel. Le Marche is home to an annual snail
festival each June, and the spiral-shaped pasta is named after the
“little snails” they resemble.
Working with the lumachelle not only offers Nadel and his diners
a chance to dig into another layer of Italian gastronomy, but it also
introduces his staff to a new technique. “I went with this pasta
to highlight an under-appreciated pasta shape,” says Nadel. “It’s a
very technical process, and I wanted to showcase A Voce’s ability to
diversify its mastery of different pasta shapes.”
When Nadel decided to put the Bugle-esque lumachelle on the
menu, his sous chefs groaned at the three-hour process of kneading,
rolling, cutting, and winding individual strips of pasta around a
dowel. And to keep the conical pasta intact during cooking, his
cooks brush the pasta with egg wash and partially dry the shells.
“I believe you can taste the difference in ingredients that have this
much time and devotion put into them,” says Nadel.
Labor aside, lumachelle is still rustic pasta, most often paired
with broth or cream sauce and originally designed to feed not-soglamorous Benedictine nuns. To bring lumachelle into A Voce’s
world of fine dining, escargot lover Nadel pairs the pasta with its
namesake snails—enhancing the dish with a splash of subtle irony.
Nadel braises basil-finished snails with garlic, butter, and chili
flakes. The combination stands up to the egg-heavy pasta without
overwhelming it—and it’s just plain fun. “We spend a lot of time
working and reworking our pastas to create something special,”
says Nadel. And with lumachelle, Nadel brings to life a historic
pasta in a completely modern context.
V I S I T S TA R C H E F S .CO M / L U M AC H E L L E F O R N A D E L’ S S N A I L S A N D L U M AC H E L L E R EC I P E .
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SUSTAI NABI LIT Y CH EF
CONFIT CHICKEN THIGH, DIRTY FARRO, SUNNY EGG,
AND BLACK GARLIC
EVAN
HANCZOR
CHEF EVAN HANCZOR OF PARISH HALL – BROOKLYN, NY
ADAPTED BY STARCHEFS.COM
Parish Hall
YIELD: 8 SERVINGS
109 North Third Street, Brooklyn, NY 11211
(718) 782-2602 | parishhall.net
I NGREDI ENTS
Confit Chicken Thigh:
1½ cups kosher salt
½ cup sugar
8 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs
Duck fat
Although Evan Hanczor never envisioned
becoming a chef, food played a pivotal role in
his childhood and early adult life. He spent
summers strawberry picking and cooking
with his family in Florida and experienced
the agricultural abundance of a new home
in Redding, Connecticut. And when he set
off for college, he chose gastronomically
rich New Orleans and Tulane University,
where he pursued studies in English and
philosophy
Black Garlic Sauce:
Canola oil
10 grams shallot, minced
150 grams cider vinegar
15 grams maple syrup
20 grams black garlic
1 cup cream
1 cup chicken or duck stock
Salt
Black pepper
FAST FACTS
I Support
Wholesome Wave
in making fresh,
Why: They believe
ble and available to
quality produce afforda
es.
niti
mu
underprivileged com
ve improves access
Wa
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om
oles
Wh
:
out
Ab
fresh, healthy,
and affordability of
to historically
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locally grown pro
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wholesomewave.org
r
9
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Herb Sauce:
8 teaspoons minced seasonal herbs
8 teaspoons squash or pumpkin seed oil
8 teaspoons apple cider vinegar
Juice of 4 lemons
To Assemble and Serve:
8 teaspoons clarified butter
8 eggs
Sea salt
Black pepper
Arugula or mizuna
His first foray into cooking began at Ye Olde
College Inn—a job to pay bills and nothing
more. It was only after graduating from
Tulane and moving back to Connecticut
@ PARISH _HALL @ E VAN HANCZOR
that Hanczor started formulating a future
in food. Skipping out on culinary school, he
took a position at The Dressing Room in Westport, where he developed passion for the
industry and a strong technical foundation.
Hanczor made a bold move to New York City in 2009, working at Locanda Verde before
nabbing a spot at Brooklyn’s Egg. Two years spent with Egg’s owner—North Carolina native
George Weld—exposed him to the bounty of Southern cooking, a style he soon mastered.
In 2012, Weld and Hanczor developed a new project, Parish Hall, where the menu
focuses on Northeastern regional cuisine—and the Northeastern community. Hanczor
and his team design their menu with a holistic approach to sustainability, taking into
account farm labor, community building, local agriculture, environmental responsibility,
and staffing.
PHOTOGRAPH BY SHAN NON STURGIS
PHOTOGR APH BY SHAN NON STURGIS
Tool you wish you had:
Wood-burning grill
Favorite food resource: The
Art of Fermentation, Ideas in
Food, and farmers
Favorite dish you’ve
ever made: Cheesesteak
sandwiches at home when I
was a kid
Steps you’ve taken to become
a sustainable restaurant:
Buying responsibly, wasting
little, working hard, and
making people happy
Dirty Farro:
Canola oil
2 teaspoons minced shallot
2 teaspoons minced garlic
8 teaspoons diced duck heart
4 cups cooked farro
8 teaspoons micro mirepoix (carrot,
parsnip, turnip, celery, and shallot)
4 teaspoons Dijon mustard
8 teaspoons duck liver mousse, or diced
cooked duck liver
Lemon juice
Salt
Black pepper
8 teaspoons butter
N EW YORK 2013
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M IXOLOGIST
JEFF
BELL
CABEZA Y CERVEZA:
PDT
ADAPTED BY STARCHEFS.COM
TEQUILA CABEZA, VICTORY PRIMA PILS, WORCESTERSHIRE, HABAÑERO SHRUB,
POK POK SOM TAMARIND DRINKING VINEGAR, SAL DE GUSANO, AND GRAPEFRUIT
MIXOLOGIST JEFF BELL OF PDT – NEW YORK, NY
YIELD: 1 COCKTAIL
113 Saint Marks Place, New York, NY 10009
(212) 614-0386 | pdtnyc.com
Born and raised in the Pacific Northwest,
Jeff Bell began his career in the hospitality
industry washing dishes and bussing tables
at age 18. Not necessarily enamored with a
life elbow-deep in suds and dirty dishware,
Bell eventually found his proper spot in
the business—stepping behind the bar in
Seattle at the ripe and legal age of 21, while
he completed his philosophy degree at the
University of Washington.
@ PDTNYC @ J EFFREYM BELL
I Support
Share our Strength
fut ure eaters , and
Why: Ch ildr en are our
wit h foo d— no one
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Favorite mixology resource:
The PDT Cocktail Book by
Jim Meehan.
Favorite tool: Communication
Favorite cocktail to drink: It
depends on where I am. I don’t
drink Bloody Marys often, but
I heard that Hidetsuku Ueno
at Bar Hive Five in Tokyo
makes one of the best. I had
to try it, and it was one of the
best I’ve ever had.
Favorite cocktail to make:
I probably hear this question
four or five times per shift, and
I still don’t have a great answer.
Cocktail trend you would
most like to see: I would like
hospitality to become trendier.
After graduating in 2007, Bell knew bartending was his calling, and soon packed up and
moved to New York City to hone his craft among the best and brightest. Fate was on Bell’s
side. He met PDT Mixologist Jim Meehan in 2010 while bartending for Meehan’s wife
Valerie at Maialino at the Gramercy Park Hotel. Meehan recognized Bell’s strong work
ethic and offered him one shift a week as a barback. Bell jumped at the offer to work at one
of the city’s cocktail meccas and pulled a strenuous five nights at Maialino and one at PDT.
When a bartending position opened at PDT in fall 2010, Bell received his due promotion.
Since then, he’s fully committed himself to PDT, ultimately working his way up to the
role of head bartender. Dropping his ego at the door, Bell puts the customers’ preferences
first, crafting vodka, beer, and amaro-driven cocktails with equal care and the skills of a
true cocktail craftsman.
PHOTOGRAPH BY SHAN NON STURGIS
PHOTOGRAPH BY SHAN NON STURGIS
FAST FACTS
I NGREDI ENTS :
M ETHOD:
Sal de gusano
Kosher salt
1½ ounces Tequila Cabeza
¾ ounce lime juice
¾ ounce Pok Pok Som tamarind drinking vinegar
1/8 teaspoon Lea & Perrins Worcestershire sauce
6 drops Bittermens Hellfire habañero shrub
5 ounces Victory Prima Pils
Half grapefruit wheel
In a small bowl, combine a 1:1 mixture of sal de gusano and salt. In a mixing glass
filled with ice, combine tequila, lime juice, tamarind drinking vinegar, Worcestershire
sauce, habañero shrub, and pilsner. Stir and strain into a chilled pilsner glass full of ice.
Dip grapefruit wheel in salt mixture and place on top of the glass.
Victory Prima Pils provided by
Tequila Cabeza provided by
N EW YORK 2013
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SOM M ELI ER
EMILIE
PERRIER
Ai Fiori
400 Fifth Ave, New York, 10018
(212) 613-8660 | aifiorinyc.com
Originally from Roanne, France, Emilie
Perrier came to New York City in 2003,
where she began her culinary career at
Murray’s Cheese Shop. She quickly switched
gears from fromage to vin and received her
American Sommelier certification in 2004,
while working at Asiate at the Mandarin
Oriental Hotel. Next she joined the wine
team at The Modern as the assistant wine
director. In 2007, Perrier moved on to
become wine director at Joël Robuchon’s
L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon in New York City,
where she fulfilled every sommelier’s dream:
developing her own wine program instead
of running an existing one.
PHOTOGR APH BY ANTOI N ETTE BRUNO
In 2009, Perrier opened Sho Shaun Hergatt
in New York’s Financial District (which
received one Michelin star with the help of
its outstanding wine list) and was honored
as a 2010 “Top Ten Best Sommelier North
America” from Food and Wine Magazine.
Also in 2010, Perrier joined the Michael
White’s Altamarea Group to help open
Ai Fiori in the Setai Hotel. She is now
the resident wine director, pouring wines
and serving guests with her pretense-free
philosophy. Perrier reigns over a wine list
hovering at 50 pages in length and boasting
beloved American and New World Wines
while maintaining an impressive selection
of European staples.
I Support
City Harvest
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You’re in for a surprise...
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@ AI FIORI @ALTAMAREAGROUP
TIPS FOR THE SOMMELIER
Be daring. Pair wines that your guests don’t expect.
Be yourself. A sommelier is also the face of a restaurant.
Don’t be afraid to decant wines.
Always be creative. Use beer, Sherry, sake. Don’t just stick to wine.
Be a sponge. Learn from the people around you! It’s team work!
www.costieres-nimes.org
Punches, Daisies,
Pre-Speakeasy
Q
Advocacy
By Emily Bell | Photos by Shannon Sturgis
“I’ve always been focused on how things started, even when
I was a kid,” says Jack McGarry, head bartender at The Dead
Rabbit Grocery and Grog in New York’s Financial District.
Consider the drinks menu at The Dead Rabbit the fruition
of well-stocked childhood curiosity, weighing in at 72 drinks
and 12 drink categories, with additional bottles, beers, and
even a seasonal insert—all of it painstakingly resurrected
from an under-studied cocktail era.
“My idea for this menu was to fully illustrate the kingdom of
mixed drinks before the speakeasy,” McGarry explains. “I
wanted to show there was this amazing cocktail culture well
before that, and there were no rules like many speakeasies today.”
Despite immersing himself in the convivial, comparatively
rule-free cocktail culture of the 19th century, where drinks
sounded like something Dr. Seuss might prescribe—Possets
and Fixes and Fizzes and Smashes—McGarry found himself
with quite a bit of work on his hands. “It was a massive
challenge putting the beverage program together,” he says.
It was two and a half years from research to final recipe
testing before he felt ready to unleash this wealth of drinks
upon New York City. “I was utterly obsessed with both the
history of the mixed drink and the science behind [it],” says
McGarry. Part of it being his curiosity in the era itself, and,
the rest, interpreting cocktails from the 19th, 18th, and even
17th centuries for modern day purveyors and palates. “The
drinks back in those eras were quite sweet, due to the fact
that distillers—legally or not—were only really hitting their
stride with their knowledge of distillation and methods, such
as wood maturation and charcoal filtration.” That meant a
harsher product hitting shelves and palates, which had to be
tamed with stronger, often sweeter ingredients.
94
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STARCH EFS.COM RISI NG STARS
Considering how the modern drink palate has shifted toward
bittered-and-strong, McGarry knew he had to remove some
of that saccharine element, but he wasn’t interested in going
too far in the opposite direction. His method was to “find
out the key flavor base of that particular drink and run with
it, until it worked.” That rebalancing could take five, or “as
many as 80 attempts to get right.” But the results—a balanced
interpretation of historical cocktails, where the soul of the
drink remains—are well worth it.
Take the Gin Daisy à la Paul, named for its inspiration—in
this case Charlie Paul’s Recipes of American and Other Iced
Drinks. The recipe has McGarry not only tweaking a Daisy,
but a Daisy-style particular to the 1870s and 1880s.
The Daisy of that era “was an altogether different proposition”
from the gin, soda, grenadine style more common in the early
1900s, says McGarry. “It was basically a shortened version of
punch, and each bartender had the choice of which cordial
they used. Jerry Thomas used orgeat and orange curacao;
Harry Johnson used Chartreuse, etc. Charlie Paul used orgeat
also.”
For his version, McGarry swaps in pistachio syrup and
Genever—popular in Paul’s time—for malted roundness
fleshed out by soft apricot eau de vie. He balances that with
cucumber soda, savory spice notes from Combier Kummel,
and a judicious dose of absinthe for what he calls “a Gin
Daisy with a reinforced herbaceous note.” Considering what
went into its production—and whatever other magic makes
a 72-drink list “consumer accessible”—we’d call that an
understatement.
Gin Daisy à la Paul
Mixologist Jack McGarry of The Dead Rabbit Grocery and Grog – New York, NY
Adapted by StarChefs.com
Yield: 1 cocktail
INGREDIENTS
METHOD
1½ ounces Bols Barrel-aged Genever
¾ ounce apricot eau de vie
½ ounce Combier Kummel
1 ounce lemon juice
½ ounce pistachio syrup
5 dashes Pernod Absinthe
Cucumber soda
Nutmeg
Combine the Genever, eau de vie, Combier Kummel, lemon, pistachio syrup, and absinthe in a Toby shaker. Add ice
and shake vigorously. Strain into an ice-filled moustache
cup and top with cucumber soda. Garnish with freshly
grated nutmeg.
N EW YORK 2013
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