Berlin

Transcription

Berlin

Maps Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Events Hotels
Berlin
October - November 2014
The Wall
25 years later
Anniversary celebrations
West Berlin
New life in the old west
inyourpocket.com
N°71 - €1.75
Contents
Transport
5
Getting around by S&U
Sports in Berlin
6
All about Berlin’s top teams
Basics
8
Essential travel tips
Mauerfall
9
25 Years after the Wall
Culture & Events
10
Roll up for theatre, shows and cinema
Berlin Mitte
Gendamenmarkt
AM
20
The delights of the city centre
Berlin Prenzlauer Berg
Berlin Charlottenburg & The West
The gentrified north
32
Genteel western Berlin
Berlin Friedrichshain
42
46
Worker’s paradise, student’s playground
SYMBOL KEY
T Child friendly
U Facilities for the disabled
V Home delivery
E Live music
N No credit cards
M Nearest S/U-Bahn station
B Outside seating
G Non-smoking room
S Take away
R Internet
Additional symbols for hotels
P Air conditioning
A Credit cards accepted
L Guarded parking
H Conference facilities
F Fitness centre
K Restaurant
D Sauna
C Swimming pool
Dinner price guide
The number of euro symbols in our restaurant, café
and nightlife reviews indicates the approximate price
level based on a main course with a glass of wine.
Wartburgstraße 54, Berlin - Schöneberg
Open daily from 18:00
Tel. 784 20 59
www.renger-patzsch.com
48
City Tours
56
Guided walks, bike rides and drives
Potsdam
58
Royal palaces and grand gardens
Directory
W Wi-Fi
Local cuisine
Berlin Kreuzberg
Immigrants, anarchists and hipsters
€€€€ Expensive; more than €30 per person.
€€€ Not cheap; €20-30 per person.
€€ Middling; from €10-20 per person.
€ Cheap; less than €10 per person.
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket
59
Maps & Index
Street register
City map
Public transport map
Index
60
61-63
64-65
66
BERLIN BOXES
Scattered throughout the guide you’ll find boxes with
more information about these topics:
Berlin in books
Cold War Berlin
Erasmus Student Network
West Berlin Revival
55
39
8
41
3
Foreword
Transport
All of us at Berlin In Your Pocket clearly remember the night
the Wall fell 25 years ago, even though we were in different
cities and countries at the time; for all of us it was clear a
momentous change was taking place that would change
our horizon. It’s easy to lose track of what Berlin has gone
through since then; two isolated, rather provincial towns
have haphazardly merged into a thriving metropolis that
despite a lack of obvious beauty has become a magnet for
visitors from near and far.
In November, major anniversary celebrations are planned;
see p.9 for the programme and further details. Plenty of
sights related to the Wall can be visited at other times too;
see p.39 for a selection. And if history isn’t your thing, there
are dozens of other concerts, parties, exhibitions and events
planned; see our events selection from p.10 for suggestions.
Even though all the attention is focused on the old East,
try to look the other way too; West Berlin has recently
undergone a lot of investment, with several hotels, malls
and attractions newly opened this year. See p.41 for our
overview.
Whatever you do this autumn, let us know your tips and
comments at berlin@inyourpocket.com. Enjoy Berlin.
Publisher
In Your Pocket GmbH
Axel-Springer-Straße 39
10969 Berlin
Tel: +49 30 27 90 79 81
Fax: +49 30 24 04 73 50
germany@inyourpocket.com
www.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1611-9037
Printed by Druckteam GbR Berlin.
Circulation 20,000 copies bimonthly
The public transport map is used under license no. BVG-0079.11.
Editorial
Editors Jeroen van Marle, Philippe Krüger, Christina Knight
Research Cecilia Engvall, Layout Tomáš Haman,
Photos Jeroen van Marle (JvM), Emilie Guilland (EG)
Maps Kartographie Eichner,
Cover © Axel Lauer | Dreamstime.com
Sales & Circulation
General Manager Stephan Krämer
Production Manager Philippe Krüger
Accounting Martin Wollenhaupt
Advertising Managers Philippe Krüger,
CoCoMedia (cj@coco-media.de)
Copyright notice & Editor’s note
Text and photos (unless otherwise stated) copyright pocket
publishing GmbH. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights
reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in
any form without written permission from the copyright
owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license
from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania
tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
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ensure the accuracy of all information and assume no
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COVER STORY
Original parts of the Berlin Wall on
Bernauer Strasse merge with art.
This street forms a 1,5-kilometre
open air exhibition about the Berlin
Wall, which famously came down
25 years ago. See p.9 for more
about the anniversary festivities.
Although Berlin is lodged in the middle of the great
empty vastness of northeast Germany, it’s very well
connected to the rest of civilisation by bus, train, Autobahn
and air. Once in Berlin, you’ll wish that your home town had
such good public transport.
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
Berlin’s integrated network of U-Bahn (Untergrundbahn,
underground trains), bus, and Straßenbahn (trams) run
by BVG and S-Bahn and RE (Schnellbahn and regional
commuter trains run by DB) usually works like a dream. Just
remember the number or colour and end station of the line
you want to use, and you’ll be navigating the labyrinth-like
stations like a local.
Most S/U-Bahn trains, buses and trams run every 5-15 minutes
during the day. M buses and trams run every half hour at
night; U-Bahn trains run every 15 minutes on weekend nights,
with N buses following their routes every half hour (starting
from Hackescher Markt) on weekday nights.
Tickets can be used on all BVG, S-Bahn and local RE train
services. Vending machines have instructions in English
and accept coins, often bank notes and cards too. Berlin’s
AB travel zone contains nearly everything; you’ll only need
an ABC-ticket for Potsdam and Schoenefeld airport.
With an Einzelfahrschein ticket (AB-zone €2,60, ABC €3,20)
you can travel one-way for up to two hours with unlimited
transfers; it’s cheaper to buy four tickets at once (VierFahrten-Karte, €8,80). Buy a €1,50 Kurzstrecke (short
distance) ticket if you want to travel up to three S/U-Bahn
stops, or up to six stops by bus or tram. If you anticipate
a lot of travelling, get the Tageskarte (day ticket, valid
until 03:00 the next morning; €6,70) or the seven-day
pass (€28,80). Groups of up to five people are best off
with a Kleingruppenkarte (group day ticket, €16,20). The
multi-day Berlin Welcomecard (€18,50-38,50) is valid for
transport and some attractions.
Before boarding the S- or U-Bahn, always validate your
ticket by punching it in the yellow or red machines near
the end of the platforms. On buses and trams, the machines
are on board. Public transport uses the honour system, and
there are regular checks by uniformed and plainclothes
inspectors. If you are caught without a valid ticket you’ll
be fined €40 on the spot.
BVG
The Berliner Verkehrsbetriebe run the U-Bahn, buses and
trams. Their handy trip planner can be found at www.
fahrinfo-berlin.de.Qtel. +49 30 194 49, info@bvg.de,
www.bvg.de.
TAXIS
CITY FUNKQtel. +49 30 21 02 02, www.cityfunk.de.
FUNK TAXI BERLINQtel. +49 30 26 10 26,
www.taxifunkberlin.de.
TAXI FUNKQtel. +49 30 44 33 22, www.taxi443322.de.
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5
Sports in Berlin
Sports in Berlin
Alba playing at the O2 World Stadium
Berlin is without a doubt the German capital of sports - the
city has no less than six professional sports teams, playing
five exciting spectator sports: Hertha BSC and FC Union
play football, the Eisbären is an ace ice hockey team, Alba is
Berlin’s renowned basketball club, the Füchse play handball,
and volleyball is taken care of by the BR Volleys. Their
home matches attract huge numbers of visitors to Berlin’s
stadiums; last season alone 2,4 million tickets were sold
for their events. In addition to this, Berlin’s streets regularly
host huge sports events such as the public viewing festivals
during major sports events abroad, and the city also hosts
countless amateur sports matches.
ALBA BERLIN (BASKETBALL)
Also known as the Albatrosse,
Berlin’s basketball club is
Germany’s most successful, and
has the largest fanbase; home
matches easily attract 10,000
spectators. The current team’s
average height is an impressive
1,98m. Since going pro in 1991,
Alba has won the German League 8 times and the
German Cup 7 times (including 2013), and was also
the first German team to win an international title with
the 1995 Korac Cup.
Alba slam-dunk their way to victory at their home O2
World stadium on the following dates:
2 Oct, 18:30: BG Göttingen
8 Oct, 20:00: San Antonio Spurs
12 Oct, 17:00: Ratiopharm Ulm
17 Oct, 20:15: ZSKA Moskau
30 Oct, 20:00: Maccabi Tel Aviv
7 Nov, 20:00: Limoges CSP
9 Nov, 17:00: FC Bayern München
23 Nov, 17:00: Basketball Löwen Braunschweig
27 Nov, 20:15: Unicaja Malaga
QI-4, Mildred-Harnack-Straße (O2 World),
Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel. +49
1805 57 00 11, www.albaberlin.de. Tickets €8-65.
6
Despite being rivals, Berlin’s six professional sports
collaborate to improve the circumstances for professional
sports in Berlin, promoting Berlin’s image as an international
sports event destination.
The home matches of Berlin’s pro teams are easy to visit:
you don’t need to understand German to be able to follow
a match and unlike in other European countries, sports
matches in Germany are quite peaceful events, meaning
it’s no problem to bring the whole family to the stadium
for an afternoon or evening of fun. Finding out about
which matches are playing where can be problematic for
visitors however as the club websites are not all available
in English, and some make it difficult to find the upcoming
playing dates. In the club details here we have listed all
home matches for the following months, though always
keep an eye on the club websites for changes or additional
matches. Berlin’s official English-language sports website
www.berlin-sportmetropole.de has information about all
the teams, venues and tickets; ticket booking site www.
eventimsports.de sells tickets for all matches.
The Alba Berlin basketball team, also known as the
Albatrosses, is based in Berlin-Friedrichshain’s impressive
O2-World stadium. The team was founded in 1989 but is
already eight-time winner of the German championship,
last in March 2013, and coming second in 2014. Under
coach Sasa Obradovic, a refreshed team with young new
talent including Jamel McLean, Jonathan Tabu and Niels
Giffey kicks off the 2014-15 season in early October.
Enjoy cheering for Berlin!
BR VOLLEYS (VOLLEYBALL)
Berlin’s professional volleyball team originates in the
western district of Charlottenburg, but plays home
matches at the Max-Schmeling-Halle in Prenzlauer
Berg. The BR Volleys have been particularly successful
since the late 1990s, winning the German Bundesliga
title five times, including in 2013 and 2014 under
trainer Mark Lebedew.
Their upcoming home games are:
29 Oct, 19:30: TV Ingersoll Bühl
6 Nov, 19:30: ACH Volley Ljubljana
8 Nov, 18:00: CV Mitteldeutschland
15 Nov, 18:00: TSV Herrsching
22 Nov, 18:00: Netzhoppers KW-Bestensee
29 Nov, 18:00: SVG Lüneburg
EISBÄREN BERLIN (ICE HOCKEY)
Originating in 1953 in East Germany’s Dynamo sports club, the
‘polar bears’ is Berlin’s popular
professional ice hockey team.
They have won the national
Deutsche Eishockey Liga 7 times,
more than any other team, most
recently in 2013 under Canadian
coach Jeff Tomlinson. They also bagged the European
Trophy in 2010; unfortunately they were not as lucky in
the 2013/2014 season. But their home matches at the
O2 Stadium are true family fests, with plenty of young
fans packing the seats, and a festive, good-humoured
atmosphere.
Their upcoming home matches are:
5 Oct, 14:30: Düsseldorfer EG
10 Oct, 19:30: ERC Ingolstadt
19 Oct, 16:30: Schwenninger Wild Wings
26 Oct, 14:30: Iserlohn Roosters
2 Nov, 17:45: EHC Red Bull München
16 Nov, 14:30: Grizzly Adams Wolfsburg
21 Nov, 19:30: Augsburger Panther
28 Nov, 19:30: Krefeld Pinguine
QI-4, Mildred-Harnack-Straße (O2 World),
Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel. +49
30 97 18 40 40, www.eisbaeren.de. Tickets €18-46.
FC UNION BERLIN (FOOTBALL)
FC Union is the working man’s football
team for Berlin, originating in East Berlin
in 1966 and a feared
counterpart for the GDR’s state-influenced Dynamo
club. Union is still fiercely independent, based in their
charming An der Alten Försterei stadium. The club has
resisted all commercialism, with a club anthem sung
by punkrock legend Nina Hagen, and a stadium
uniquely partly owned by passionate fans. Nicknamed
Eisern Union (iron union), it had a tough time in the
1990s, but has had more success in the national competitions since the early 2000s.
Upcoming home games:
18 Oct, 13:00: SV Sandhausen
31 Oct, 18:30: SpVgg Greuther Fürth
22 Nov, 13:00: TSV 1860 München
QAn der Wuhlheide 263 (Stadion An der Alten
Försterei), Köpenick, MS Köpenick, tel. +49 30 656
68 80, www.fc-union-berlin.de. Tickets €14-43.
QAm Falkplatz (Max-Schmeling-Halle), Prenzlauer
Berg, tel. +49 1806 99 11 12, www.berlin-recyclingvolleys.de. Tickets €13-16.
FÜCHSE BERLIN (HANDBALL)
“The foxes’, Berlin’s
handball team, is part
of an old West Berlin
sports club, and now
plays home matches
in Prenzlauer Berg’s
famous Max-Schmeling-Halle, named after
the German boxing
legend who was world
champion heavyweight
between 1930-32. The Füchse compete in Germany’s
Handball Liga and the European Champions League,
and won the German cup at the end of the very succesful 2013-2014 season.
Upcoming home games:
11 Oct, 16:15: THW Kiel
14 Oct, 19:00: HC Erlangen
26 Oct, 17:15: MT Melsungen
9 Nov, 17:15: TSG Friesenheim
QG-1, Am Falkplatz (Max-Schmeling-Halle),
Prenzlauer Berg, MS/U Schönhauser Allee, tel. +49
30 44 30 44 30, www.fuechse-berlin.de. Tickets €1250.
HERTHA BSC (FOOTBALL)
Berlin’s main football team plays home matches at
the impressive Olympiastadion, Germany’s second
largest stadium which was built for the 1936
Olympic Games and renovated for the 2006 World
Cup. Hertha competes in the national Bundesliga
and internationally in the UEFA Cup and Uefa
Championships League. Hertha dates back to 1892 and
is know as the ‘Alte Dame’, the old dame, witnessing its
glory years between 1926 and 1931 when it reached
the German Championship finals 6 times, winning it
twice. Nowadays Hertha’s fortunes are mixed, but the
fan base remains loyal.
Upcoming home matches:
3 Oct, 20:30: VfB Stuttgart
25 Oct, 15:30: Hamburger SV
7 Nov, 20:30: Hannover 96
29 Nov, 15:30: FC Bayern München
QOlympischer
Platz
3
(Olympiastadion),
Charlottenburg, MS5 Olympiastadion, tel. +49
1805 18 92 00, www.herthabsc.de. Tickets €15-89.
7
Basics
25 Years after the Wall
BASIC DATA
Population: Germany: 81,751,602; Berlin: 3,460,725
Longest river in Germany: Rhine, 1319km.
The Spree is 403km.
Highest point of Germany: Zugspitze, 2962m
Highest point of Berlin: Teufelsberg, 114m
Highest natural point of Berlin:
Victoriapark Kreuzberg, 66m
Berlin’s territory: 900 square kilometers
CRIME & SAFETY
Berlin is a relatively calm and safe place. Instances of petty
crimes are low compared to other Western European capitals, though you shoulds still always keep an eye on your
valuables and never leave bags, wallets and mobile phones
unattended. Just like anywhere else, be careful when walking in unlit streets late at night. Race-related hassles seldom
occur in Berlin’s touristed central areas.
ELECTRICITY
Electrical current in Germany is 220v AC, 50 Hz via standard European round, two-pin sockets. Converters can be
bought at the airport and large electronics shops, and
many hotels will have them at the front desk too.
ERASMUS STUDENT
NETWORK
How do international students get to meet locals
and the city during an academic exchange? The
best way to do it is via the Erasmus Student Network
(ESN), one of the biggest interdisciplinary student
associations in Europe. It was developed to help
internationals during their stay abroad. ESN is present
in more than 430 Higher Education Institutions in 36
countries. The closest section to Berlin is the section
in Potsdam, where more than 20 volunteers care for
you. For information, see potsdam.esngermany.org or
www.facebook.com/esn.lei.potsdam.
8
MONEY
Germany uses the euro (€). Banknotes come in denominations of €5, €10, €20, €50, €100, €200 and €500. Coins,
whose design depends on in which country they were
minted, come in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50
cents and €1 and €2. Credit and debit card payment is
possible in a wide range of shops, restaurants and nightlife
venues, though always have cash on you for small payments
just in case. This guide indicates which places do not accept
plastic. ATMs can be found everywhere; those that charge
for transactions clearly indicate the fee during the process.
Exchange offices can be found at the major train stations.
VISAS AND ENTRY
FORMALITIES
EU citizens can stay in Germany as long as they like, though
registration at a Bürgeramt office is officially required for stays
more than a few months. Citizens of Australia, Canada, Hong
Kong, Japan, Malaysia, New Zealand, Mexico USA and a few
others can enter Germany without a visa for a maximum of 90
days in any six month period. All other nationals need to apply
for a German visa in advance. Note that there’s no passport
control between Germany and the other 14 European ‘Schengen’ countries, and visas to any of these are valid for travel in
Germany too. All visitors need a passport that is valid for at
least fourth months from the date of arrival; EU citizens can
enter with a valid EU identity card too. Check the MFA website
for the latest immigration details: www.auswaertiges-amt.de.
CLIMATE
© Kulturprojekte Berlin WHITEvoid / Christopher Bauder, Photo Daniel Büche
As the dictatorships in Eastern Europe crumbled one by
one between 1989 and 1991, one event stood out as the
symbol for this dramatic turn of fate for Europe and the
world: the fall of the Berlin Wall on 9 November 1989.
East Germany wasn't the first country to push its ageing
communists aside, nor was it the last. But the pace of
change here was so fast, and the opening of the deadly
border that split the city for 28 years was so unexpected,
that it surprised the most knowledgeable of experts.
The actual event leading to crowds of East Germans
streaming across the border was a moment of unintended
comedy; Communist Party spokesman Günter Schabowski
slipped up during a press conference on the evening of 9
November in which he announced the suspension of travel
restrictions, saying this would take effect immediately.
Border guards along the Wall were surprised by the growing
crowds and eventually locked away their weapons and
opened the border gates to avoid escalation – essentially
signalling the end of the East German state.
30
80
25
70
PROGRESS
60
Several places in Berlin can be visited to learn more
about the Berlin Wall and see some of the remains; most
important is the official memorial on Bernauer Strasse,
where a newly renovated information centre overlooks an
original part of the death strip. See the Mitte chapter for
other Wall-related sights and museums.
20
50
15
40
10
30
5
0
Rainfall (mm)
Germans like their beer, drinking about 107 litres per capita
per year (down from 136 litres 15 years ago). Unfortunately
Berlin’s local brew, the slightly sour Berliner Weiße, is only really palatable ‘mit Schuss’, with a shot of sweet fruit sirup. Cocktails and long drinks of varying quality and price are available
in a multitude of places. Non-alcoholic drinks often sipped
in Berlin include Apfelschorle, a refreshing mix of apple juice
and sparkling water, and Club-Mate (‘kloob mah-tea’) ice tea,
made with extract of the South American maté plant, caffeine
and tannins, and is popular with local hipsters as it comes in
a screw top bottle so you can hiply tote it around (or drink to
just below the top label and top it up with wodka).
Temperature °C
DRINKS & ALCOHOL
20
Jan
Feb Mar Apr May Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov Dec
-5
10
0
Rainfall (mm)
Min Temp (°C)
Max Temp (°C)
It's easy to forget how much progress was made since those
joyful days in November 1989; West-Berlin was an oversubsidised and unsustainable half-city, while in East Berlin
both the society and the city centres were crumbling away.
It took decades for the two Berlins to grow together again,
and only now that the traces of the Wall become ever more
faint, and as West Berlin enjoys increased attention, that
we can start to say the city is truly reunited. For those who
remember 1989, it's odd to imagine that in the meantime a
new generation of Berliners who were born after this event
has grown up. And in just 3 years, the Wall will have been
gone just as long as it once divided this city. Berliners have
no doubt that the Wall won't be forgotten soon.
ANNIVERSARY EVENTS
79 NOVEMBER
Various events take place in Berlin in the anniversary
weekend of 7-9 November. A 15-kilometre ‘Border
of Light’, consisting of 8000 lit-up balloons, follows
the route of the Wall through central Berlin between
Bornholmer Strasse and the Oberbaumbrücke bridge.
Each balloon has a patron, whose personal stories
can be read at www.fallofthewall25.com. On Sunday
9 November there’s a service at the Bernauer Strasse
memorial, followed by the opening of the renovated
documentation centre. In the afternoon, Mikhail
Gorbachev, Miklós Németh, Lech Wałęsa and other key
personalities kick off celebrations at Gendarmenmarkt,
after which Daniel Barenboim directs an open-air
concert at the Brandenburg Gate. Around 19:00 the
8,000 balloons along the Wall are released. Read more
about this and all other events related to the Wall
anniversary at wall.visitBerlin.com.
9
Culture & Events
Culture & Events
Berlin is blessed with a large number of quality theatres
and halls, top-quality artists
and relatively cheap tickets
- and an annual cultural
budget of over €900 million
to fund it all. Sports lovers
can choose from a wide
variety of matches played
year-round.
STAATSOPER IM SCHILLERTHEATER
The venue for Daniel Barenboim’s award-winning
Staatskapelle orchestra. Temporarily housed in the
Schillertheater until renovations of their grand theatre on
Unter den Linden are completed.QC-3, Bismarckstraße
110, Charlottenburg, MU Ernst-Reuter-Platz, tel. +49 30
20 35 45 55, www.staatsoper-berlin.org. Tickets €14-220.
OPERA & CLASSICAL MUSIC
ADMIRALSPALAST
This former army bathhouse was famous for its cabaret,
operetta house, spa and brothel in Berlin’s roaring 20s.
Hitler cleaned up their acts in the 1930s, installing a
private box so that he could watch his favourite operetta
‘The Merry Widow’, and Brecht tried out his new theatre
here from the 1950s. With several theatres, it now puts on
plays, concerts and musicals.QF-3, Friedrichstraße 101,
Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 47 99 74 99,
www.admiralspalast.de. Shows Tue-Sun 20:00. Tickets
€21-79.
DEUTSCHE OPER BERLIN
West Berlin’s 1960s opera building with its excellent
acoustics hosts superb musical and theatrical performances.
Donald Runnicles is the principal conductor.QB-3,
Bismarckstraße 35, Charlottenburg, MU Deutsche
Oper, tel. +49 30 34 38 43 43, www.deutscheoperberlin.
de. Tickets from €16.
Classical
Masterpieces
Italy as Prussia‘s guest
Every Wednesday, Friday and Saturday
Dinner: 18:00
Concert: 20:30
tel. 030-258 10 35-0
www.concerts-berlin.com
KOMISCHE OPER
Starting off as the Theater Unter den Linden in 1892, the
building’s monumental neo-baroque main hall survived
wartime bombing, and reopened in 1947. It shows classic
music, ballet and opera pieces. Translations in English
are shown on a screen on the seat in front of you.QF-3,
Behrenstraße 55, Mitte, MU Französische Straße, tel. +49
30 20 26 00, www.komische-oper-berlin.de. Tickets €9150.
WINTERGARTEN: MADNESS
Enjoy classical concerts and a festive dinner in royal
surroundings. Baroque-era culinary delicacies and musical
masterpieces are combined in the magical surroundings
of the extravagant former summer residence of the
Hohenzollern dynasty. The orchestra plays masterpieces
of the 17th and 18th centuries, by Bach, Händel, Mozart,
Vivaldi and others. Concerts are held every Wednesday,
Friday and Saturday in October at 20:30 (except 17 Oct),
and November (except 8, 28 Nov). The first Christmas
Advent concert takes place on 30 Nov at 16:00.
BERLINER RESIDENZ KONZERTE
QSpandauer Damm 22-24, Charlottenburg, tel. +49
30 25 81 03 50, www.concerts-berlin.com.
schaubühne
Theatre with English surtitles
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++
We offer several shows with
English surtitles every month.
All upcoming shows with surtitles are announced at
www.schaubuehne.de/surtitles
Tickets: 030.890023 | www.schaubuehne.de
BERLINER RESIDENZ KONZERTE
The Berliner Residenz Orchestra plays famous Baroque-era
works by candlelight, with musicians in period costumes - a
unique opportunity to get a good idea of what it was like to
attend a party in the 18th century. Guests can combine the
concert with a tour of Charlottenburg castle or a trip on the
river Spree, and dinner amidst hundreds of candles.QB-3,
Spandauer Damm 22-24, Charlottenburg, MS Westend,
tel. +49 30 526 81 96 96, www.concerts-berlin.com. Dinner 18:00, concert 20:30. Tickets €29-79.
KONZERTHAUS BERLIN
Together with the Deutscher and Französischer Dom
churches, the Konzerthaus forms Berlin’s most spectacular
architectural ensemble. Built by Friedrich Schinkel in 1821,
it was badly damaged in the war and only reopened as a
concert hall in 1984. The Berliner Sinfonie-Orchester plays
at the venue.QF-3, Gendarmenmarkt 2, Mitte, MU
Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 203 09 21 01, www.konzerthaus.
de. Tickets €10-99.
BERLINER RESIDENZ
CONCERTS
10 Berlin In Your Pocket
SHOWS
Thomas Otto © Photo: Peter Noreick
From 15 October until 18 February, the Magical
Mystery Show is all about illusion. The red velvet
curtain raises to reveal Grand Masters of magic, who
make the impossible seem possible, creating magical
and mysterious moments where nothing is as it seems.
Lead by magician Thomas Otto, the magicians from
around the world turn the Wintergarten theatre into a
dreamlike place of illusion. Join them on a journey into
the world of the unexplained.
WINTERGARTEN VARIÉTÉQPotsdamer Straße
96, Tiergarten, MU Kurfürstenstraße, tel. +49 30 58
84 33, www.wintergarten-berlin.de. Shows Wed-Sat
20:00, Sun 18:00.
BLUE MAN GROUP
The (quite literally) Blue Man Group has been wowing
audiences for years in their Bluemax Theatre. The visually
and musically powerful show is suitable for foreigners as
it has little spoken German, and now has been thoroughly
revamped, with many new sketches and elements.QE4, Marlene Dietrich Platz 4, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer
Platz, tel. +49 1805 44 44, www.bluemangroup.de.
Shows Tue, Fri 21:00; Wed, Thu, Sat 18:00, 21:00; Sun
18:00. Tickets from €69.
FRIEDRICHSTADT-PALAST
No one does over-the-top better than the producers and
long-legged dancers and acrobats of Friedrichstadtpalast.
This venue normally puts on the glitziest, biggest
revues in town.QF-3, Friedrichstraße 107, Mitte, MU
Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 23 26 23 26, www.showpalace.eu. Tickets €18-106.
11
Culture & Events
FIRST WORLD WAR
Surgical instruments from a military hospital, Germany 1914
© Stiftung Deutsches Historisches Museum, Photo: Sebastian
Ahlers
19141918: THE FIRST WORLD WAR
Until 30 November.
Characterised as the “seminal catastrophe” of the
20th century, nine million soldiers and almost
six million civilians died in the First World War,
the first industrialised, total war in history. It
changed not only subsequent armed conflicts,
but also influenced political thought and action
for many years to come. The German Historical
Museum’s special exhibition offers a multifaceted
overview of the war as well as its prerequisites and
consequences, and approaches this previously
unknown escalation of violence from a broad
perspective. It takes 14 salient places as points of
departure, battlefields such as Verdun, Tannenberg
or Gallipoli, but also political-cultural centres like
Petrograd and Berlin as well as occupied cities
and regions, including Brussels and Galicia. All
of the places point to overriding developments:
the modernisation of war technology with its
disastrous consequences for the people, the
worldwide wartime economy, the global escalation
of the fighting as well as the totalisation of the war,
which not only affected the soldiers on the fronts,
but also mobilised the entire population.
DEUTSCHES HISTORISCHES MUSEUMQUnter
den Linden 2, Mitte, MHackescher Markt, tel. +49
30 20 30 40, www.dhm.de. Open daily 10:00 - 18:00.
ASK THE CONCIERGE
Berlin’s top hotels all have concierges that are there
to make the guest’s lives easier. They can inform you
about current events, book tickets, make restaurant
reservations and hand out copies of Berlin In Your
Pocket, transport maps, and brochures. Concierges can
be recognised by the crossed golden keys on the lapels
of their jackets.
Culture & Events
HINTERM HORIZONT
The musical based on the songs of German rock legend
Udo Lindenberg is a hit with the locals, and using
the free portable translator device (book in advance),
international visitors can follow the spoken scenes too.
‘Behind the horizon’ is an East-West love story set in
Berlin: a West German rock singer falls for an East Berlin
beauty, who spies on him for the Stasi in order to save
her brother. Years later, in a reunited Germany, they piece
together their history.QE-4, Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1
(Stage Theater am Potsdamer Platz), MPotsdamer
Platz, tel. +49 1805 44 44, www.stage-entertainment.
de. Shows 19:00, Fri 20:00, Sat 15:30, 20:00, Sun 14:30.
Mon closed. Tickets €38-97.
TIPI AM KANZLERAMT
Continuing a tradition that started a century ago in
Berlin, the Tipi team wine, dine and entertain guests
for an evening in their elegant year-round tent in
Tiergarten park. Before the show starts, gourmet food
is served. Then it’s over to the artists featured that night
to entertain the audience.QE-3, Große Querallee,
Tiergarten, MU Bundestag, tel. +49 30 39 06 65 50,
www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de. Shows 20:00, Sun 19:00.
Tickets €15-45.
WINTERGARTEN VARIÉTÉ
One of Berlin’s famed variety theatres was revived here
as a dinner theater. Seated around tables, you’ll enjoy a
show with acrobats, magicians, clowns, jugglers and more.
EVENT TICKETS
Tickets can be purchased at the venues, via hotel
concierges, at ticket offices (also in major department
stores) and online.
EVENTIM An online booking service with event
tickets mailed or available for home printing.Qtel. +49
180 557 00 70, www.eventim.de.
HEKTICKET Ticket shops and online sales (for home
printing, pick-up or mailing). Reduced same-day tickets
for shows and attractions are available after 14:00. Also
at Karl-Liebknecht-Straße 13, Mitte.QC-4, Hardenbergstraße 29d, Charlottenburg, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 230 99 30, www.hekticket.
de. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 14:00 - 18:00.
KOKA 36 Kreuzberg’s Konzertkasse has tickets in their
shop and online (German only), for mailing and pickup.QH-4, Oranienstraße 29, Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 61 10 13 13, www.koka36.
de. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
PAPAGENA Regular and reduced price tickets for
classical music, opera and theatre. Call for English-language service.Qtel. +49 30 47 99 74 44, www.khs.
papagena.de.
Poker
R oulet t e
Bl ack Jack
Slotm achines
There are many ways to
spend a night in Berlin.
But spending an Evening
at its Casino could be an
unforgettable one.
Spielbank-berlin.de
+49-(0)30-255 99 0
Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1
10785 Berlin
Open daily 11am - 5am
Guest must be 18 or over
and show a valid ID card..
Please remember to
gamble Responsibly.
Before the show, waiters take orders for meals which are
served during the break. New shows are put on several
times per year.QE-4, Potsdamer Straße 96, Tiergarten,
MU Kurfürstenstraße, tel. +49 30 58 84 33, www.
wintergarten-berlin.de. Shows Wed-Sat 20:00, Sun
18:00. Tickets €25-60.
THEATRE, MUSIC & DANCE
Berlin has dozens of venues for performances. There’s
lots of great theatre, but most of it is German-language;
it’s getting better, with English plays or surtitles in some
theatres.
Berlin is the world capital of contemporary dance; look for
shows by Sasha Waltz, perhaps the best choreographer
around. The Staatsballett Berlin is the main classic
dance company. Tanzraumberlin magazine (www.
tanzraumberlin.de), available at the venues, lists all dance
events.
ENGLISH THEATRE BERLIN
Berlin residents, whether native English speakers or
not, come to this theatre for the edgy programming
on the little black box’s stage.QF-5, Fidicinstraße 40,
Kreuzberg, MU Platz der Luftbrücke, tel. +49 30 691
12 11, tickets@etberlin.de, www.etberlin.de. Tickets
€14-18.
FILM FESTIVALS
Apart from the huge Berlinale film festival in February,
Berlin has over 40 smaller international film festivals
throughout the year, often focused on a country or theme.
5-12 Oct: Latin American FF, Babylon, www.lakinobln.com
16-19 Oct: Zebra Poetry FF, Babylon, www.
literaturwerkstatt.org
22-26 Oct: Porn FF, www.pornfilmfestivalberlin.de
4-9 Nov: East European Cinema FF, Cottbus, www.
filmfestivalcottbus.de
29 Oct - 9 Nov: Première Brasil, HKW, www.hkw.de
9–16 Nov: Kuki Children’s FF, 2 venues, www.kukiberlin.com
11-16 Nov: Interfilm Shorts FF, 6 venues, www.
interfilm.de
11-16 Nov: Afrikamera, Arsenal, www.afrikamera.de
1-9 Nov: Spanish FF, Babylon, www.
berlinspanischesfilmfest.com
26 Nov - 3 Dec: Russian Filmweek, 3 venues, www.
russische-filmwoche.de
28 Nov - 7 Dec: Around the World in 14 films,
Babylon, www.14films.de
13
Culture & Events
DEUTSCHE OPER:
CONCERTS AWAY
FROM HOME
Berlin’s famous Deutsche Oper orchestra is
spending a few months away from their home
theatre due to renovation works – and they’re
making the most of their carpentry shop spaces
and other alternative locations. Programme
highlights for this season are:
1 Oct: Dinorah oder Die Wallfahrt nach Ploermel
(concert version) – Berliner Philharmonie; with Patrizia
Ciofi, Jana Kurucová; Etienne Dupuis, Philippe Talbot.
Conductor: Enrique Mazzola.
14 Oct: Ariadne auf Naxos (concert version) – Berliner
Philharmonie; with Anja Harteros, Daniela Sindram,
Susanne Elmark; Stefan Vinke, Markus Brück. Conductor:
Ulf Schirmer.
17-19 Oct: Béjart Ballet Lausanne – Tempodrom;
soloist: Ronnita Miller, conductors: Donald Runnicles, /
James Feddeck. 17-19 Oct: Ce que l’amour me dit; 1718 Oct: Le Sacre du Printemps ; 19 Oct: Bolero.
5 & 11 Nov: Roberto Devereux (concert version) –
Berliner Philharmonie; with Edita Gruberova, Veronica
Simeoni; Davide Luciano, Celso Albelo. Conductor:
Pietro Rizzo.
6,8,9,17,18,19 Nov: In Transit – Tischlerei; with
Alexandra Hutton, Christina Sidak, Elbenita Kajtazi;
Gideon Poppe, Jörg Schörner, Carlton Ford, Alvaro
Zambrano. Director: Eva-Maria Abelein.
29 Nov: Falstaff - with Martina Welschenbach, Elena
Tsallagova, Jana Kurucová; Markus Brück, John Chest.
Conductor: Stefan Solyom, Director: Christof Loy.
DEUTSCHE OPER BERLIN, Bismarckstraße 35, tel.
+49 30 34 38 43 43, www.deutscheoperberlin.de.
DALÍ EXHIBITION DISCOUNT
The high-quality catalogue of the Dali Exhibition at
Potsdamer Platz has 44 pages of text about Dalí’s
life and work, and details of the specific artworks
in the exhibition, plus 40 detailed large-format
illustrations.
Until 30 November 2014, readers of Berlin In Your
Pocket can purchase the book for €14,95 instead of
€19,95 on presentation of this guidebook (for ticketholders of the exhibition only; may not be combined
with other offers).
Culture & Events
HALLE TANZBÜHNE
A monumental school gym, used for excellent modern
dance productions by the Toula Limnaios company.QG1, Eberswalder Straße 10-11, Prenzlauer Berg, MU
Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 44 04 42 92, www.halletanz-berlin.de. Tickets €15.
DALÍ EXHIBITION
Foreign film offerings in German cinemas are often
dubbed so check www.critic.de/ov-movies-berlin or
look in listings magazines like Tip and Zitty, for subtitled
films; these are marked in with OmU or OmengU
(original version with German/English subtitles) and
OF or OV (original version); DF means German version.
HEBBEL AM UFER (HAU)
Three small theatres (the others at Stresemannstraße
29 and Tempelhofer Ufer 10) perform experimental
theatre (often in English or mute) and dance.QF-4,
Hallesches Ufer 32, Kreuzberg, MU Hallesches Tor,
tel. +49 30 259 00 40, www.hebbel-am-ufer.de.
Tickets €11-18.
KOOKABURRA COMEDY CLUB
Laughing matters at this comedy club, which has
alternating English-language stand-up comedy nights
every month: Kim Eustace on the first Tuesday, and the
interactive ComedySportz show on the second and fourth
Tuesday. Also look for Karsten Kaie’s show “How to become
a Berliner in one hour”.QG-2, Schönhauser Allee 184,
Prenzlauer Berg, MU Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz, tel. +49
30 48 62 31 86, www.comedyclub.de. Tickets €5-16.
Shows Tue-Sun.
QUATSCH COMEDY CLUB
“Quatsch” is the delicious German word for nonsense,
and there’s plenty of it in the shows held in the
Friedrichstadtpalast theatre basement. Most are in German,
but look out for special guests and the regular Englishlanguage “Strictly Stand Up” nights. Drinks and snacks like
nachos and hot dogs are available.QF-3, Friedrichstr.
107, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstrasse, tel. +49 1806 999 00
09 69, www.quatsch-comedy-club.de. Tickets €25-35.
Shows Thu-Sun.
RADIALSYSTEM V
A fantastic theatre, dance and music venue in an old
pumping station along the Spree river. There’s a restaurant
and café too.QH-4, Holzmarktstraße 33, Friedrichshain,
MS Ostbahnhof, tel. +49 30 288 78 85 88, www.
radialsystem.de. Tickets €5-41.
SCHAUBÜHNE
Set inside a quirky former 1920s cinema, the politically
and socially engaged repertoire of this venerable
ensemble theatre ranges from classics to contemporary
plays, and regularly travels abroad, giving famed
directors like Thomas Ostermeier, Falk Richter and
Katie Mitchell and actors like Lars Eidinger and Nina
Hoss the chance to shine abroad. Every month, several
shows have English and/or French surtitles. There’s
a good theatre café with drinks and simple meals
too.QB-4, Kurfürstendamm 153, Charlottenburg,
MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 89 00 23, www.
schaubuehne.de. Tickets €7-47.
CINEMAS
© DaliBerlin.de
With over 450 exhibits, the new museum and cultural
highlight ‘Dalí - The Exhibition at Potsdamer Platz’ offers
the most complete overview of Dalí’s virtuous and experimental mastery in almost all art techniques, right here in
the heart of Berlin. As Dalí once said: “Come into my brain”.
In keeping with this spirit ’Surrealism for all’, visitors to Berlin now have the chance to discover ‘their Dalí’.
DALÍ - THE EXHIBITION AT POTSDAMER
PLATZQLeipziger Platz 7, Mitte, MPotsdamer
Platz, tel. +49 700 32 54 23 75 46, www.daliberlin.
de. Open 12:00-20:00, Sun & holidays 10:00-20:00.
Admission €11, reduced €9.
Events
CLASSICAL MUSIC
5 Oct, 20:00
Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin
Conductor: Tugan Sokhiev; Works by Haydn and Mahler
PH
9 & 10 Oct, 20:30
Deutsches
Symphonie-Orchester
Berlin,
Cameron Carpenter (organ)
Conductor: Giancarlo Guerrero; organ concerto by Terry
Riley
PH
11 Oct, 20:00
Robert Leonardy (piano)
Works by Busoni, Schulhoff, Stravinsky and Schubert
PH
12 Oct, 20:00
Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin,
Dorothea Röschmann (soprano)
Conductor: Marc Albrecht; Works by Ligeti, Berg and Mahler
PH
ADRIA
The film Berlin, wie es war, black and white footage of
old Berlin, in German, screens every Sunday at 11:30.
QSchloßstraße 48, Steglitz, MS/U Rathaus Steglitz,
tel. +49 180 505 07 11, www.cineplex.de. Tickets
€7,40-9,40.
BABYLON MITTE
A 1920s filmhouse with a great program, but beware
of dubbed films. The building itself is a example of New
Objectivity. Occasionaly there are screenings of silent
films accompanied by the 1929 organ.QG-2, RosaLuxemburg-Straße 30, Mitte, MU Rosa-LuxemburgPlatz, tel. +49 30 242 59 69, www.babylonberlin.de.
Tickets €7.
CENTRAL KINO
Art-house films and mini film fests take place in this
small, but comfy cinema at the very back of a scruffy
courtyard.QG-2, Rosenthaler Straße 39, Mitte, MS
Hackerscher Markt, tel. +49 30 28 59 99 73, www.
kino-central.de. Tickets €6,50, Tue, Wed €5,50.
CINESTAR IMAX & ORIGINAL
CineStar IMAX has blockbuster films and documentaries
in English on the biggest screen in town, featuring IMAX
quality of projection and sound. The CineStar Original
cinema has Germany’s widest range of Hollywood
and arthouse movies in their original English version.
QE-4, Potsdamer Straße 4, Tiergarten (Sony Center),
MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 26 06 64 00,
www.cinestar.de. Tickets €6-13.
HACKESCHE HÖFE
Mainly shows foreign films in their original language.
QG-2, Rosenthaler Straße 40, Mitte, MS Hackescher
Markt, tel. +49 30 283 46 03, www.hackesche-hoefe.
org. Tickets €8; Mon, Tue €6,50.
SPUTNIK
Berlin’s highest cinema screens a lot of indie films,
many in English, and sometimes very long ones. In
a back courtyard of a large complex, it may seem a
bit dicey working your way to the theater, but it’s
safe, small, and friendly. Bricks make up part of the
furniture.QG-5, Hasenheide 54, Kreuzberg, MU
Südstern, tel. +49 30 694 11 47, www.sputnik-kino.
com. Tickets €5-6,5.
15
Culture & Events
Culture & Events
SUITABLE FOR INTERNATIONAL VISITORS
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THE SHOW OF ILLUSIONS
presented by
NEW MAGICIANS
NEW ILLUSIONS
15 October 2014 – 15 February 2015
Wed – Sat 20:00 · Sun 18:00
Mo + Tue no performances
(in November and December additorial performances)
Tickets from € 32*
Our annual classic for the Festive Season
13 & 14 Oct, 20:00
Staatskapelle Berlin
Conductor: Daniel Barenboim; Works by Mozart and
Widmann
PH
8 Nov, 19:00
Berliner Philharmoniker, Ivo Kahánek (piano)
Conductor: Sir Simon Rattle; Works by Martinu and
Beethoven
PH
14 Oct, 20:00
Freiburger Barockorchester, Petra Müllejans
(violin)
Conductor: Gottfried von der Goltz; Works by Händel,
Vivaldi and Schmidt
PH
10 Nov, 20:00
Russisches Nationalorchester, Mischa Maisky
(cello)
Conductor: Mikhail Pletnev; Works by Shostakovitch and
Tchaikovsky
PH
16-18 Oct, 20:00
Berliner Philharmoniker, Emanuel Ax (piano)
Conductor: Andris Nelsons; Works by Mozart and Strauss
PH
12 Nov, 20:00
Lang Lang (piano)
Works by Mozart and Chopin
PH
21 Oct, 20:00
Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin, Alice Sara Ott
(piano)
Conductor: Karel Mark Chichon; Works by Dvorák and Grieg
PH
13 Nov, 20:00
Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin, Paul Lewis
(piano)
Conductor: Marek Janowski; Works by Beethoven and
Hartmann
PH
23-25 Oct, 20:00
Berliner Philharmoniker
Conductor: Daniele Gatti; Works by Wagner, Brahms, Haydn
and Berg
PH
26 Oct, 20:00
Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin, Alban
Gerhardt (cello)
Conductor: Matthias Pintscher; Works by Wagner, Bartók
and Pintscher
PH
29-31 Oct, 20:00
Conductor: Emmanuelle Haïm; Works by Händel
PH
2 Nov, 20:00
Conductor: Kent Nagano; Works by Berg and Bruckner
PH
The Variet y Show by children for the whole family
23, 30 Nov., 7, 14, 21, 22, 23, 28 + 29 Dec. 2014
Tickets from € 12*
In cooperation with CABUWAZI and the Berliner Märchentage
Potsdamer Straße 96, D -10785 Berlin Tiergarten
Ticket Hotline: +49(0)30 - 588 433 or just print your
tickets at home: www.wintergarten-berlin.de
5 Nov, 20:00
Mitsuko Uchida (piano)
Works by Franz and Beethoven
PH
7 Nov, 20:00
Conductor: Sir Simon Rattle; Works by Kurtág, Lachenmann
and Beethoven
PH
14 Nov, 20:00
Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin, Janine
Jansen (violin)
Conductor: Tugan Sokhiev; Works by Debussy, Chausson,
Ravel and Prokofiev
PH
17 Nov, 20:00
Staatskapelle Berlin, Maria João Pires (piano)
Conductor: Paavo Järvi; Works by Messiaen, Mozart and
Schumann
PH
19 Nov, 20:00
Conductor: Tugan Sokhiev; Works by Dukas, Mozart and
Stravinsky
PH
26 Nov, 20:00
Conductor: Joshua Weilerstein; Works by Shostakovitch,
Schumann and Tchaikovsky
PH
27-29 Nov, 20:00
Berliner Philharmoniker, Martha Argerich (piano)
Conductor: Riccardo Chailly; Works by Mendelssohn
Bartholdy, Schumann and Rachmaninov
PH
*Prices plus advance booking fee and € 2 system fee/ ticket
25.11.2014
Tempodrom
20:00 Uhr
09.10.2014
Tempodrom (Kl. Arena)
20:00 Uhr
20.11.2014
Tempodrom
20:00 Uhr
www.prknet.de
www.mariannefaithfull.org.uk
15.10.2014
Columbiahalle
20:00 Uhr
TICKETS: 030 / 479 974 77 | www.semmel.de
MARIANNE FAITHFULL
& URBAN DANCE
On 25 November, legendary singer-songwriter and
actress Marianne Faithfull visits Berlin for her
“50th Anniversary Tour”
concert at the Tempodrom.
She recounts half a century
of her successes with her
characteristic voice, playing hits like Broken English, Vagabond Ways and As
Tears Go By.
Urban Dance fans can look forward to mesmerising
performances of Popping, Hip Hop, House, Locking,
BBoying and Voguing styles during the Snipes Funkin’
Stylez international Urban Dance Battle, from 20-22
November. The preselection, followed by parties,
take place at the Ritter
Butzke club in Kreuzberg,
while the World Team Battle is at Tempodrom. For
more details and tickets
see www.semmel.de.
17
Culture & Events
CONCERTS
9 Oct, 20:00
Elvis Costello (singer/songwriter)
AD
9 Oct, 20:00
Jan Delay & Disko No. 1 (Funk)
MS
9 Oct, 19:30
Lady Gaga (Pop)
O2
15 Oct, 20:00
Lindsey Stirling (Classical/Pop)
CH
27 Oct, 19:30
Kylie Minogue (Pop)
O2
5 Nov, 20:00
Lykke Li (Pop)
AD
5 Nov, 20:00
Lenny Kravitz (Rock/Soul)
O2
Culture & Events
KNUTSCHFLECK
Berlin Burlesque and more.
Opening in October. See p. 24
for more information.
19 Nov, 20:00
Linkin Park (Rock)
O2
EXHIBITIONS
16 Oct - 16 Nov
Month of Photography Berlin
With 125 exhibitions across the city, Berlin’s biannual Month
of Photography is dedicated to ‘Upheavals and utopia:
the other Europe’, with themes like borders, immigration
and refugees taking centre stage. Young and old, classic
and experimental photography can all be admired at the
participating venues; the main exhibition in the MartinGropius-Bau (until 14 Dec, admission free) shows the
contemporary photography exhibition “MemoryLab: The
Sentimental Turn”. For more details see www.mdf-berlin.de.
MG & other venues
1 & 2 November
Museumsfest Deutsches Historisches Museum
This year’s museum festival at the German Historical
Museum is all about the 25th anniversary of the fall of the
Berlin Wall; visitors can learn more about the event, note
down their personal memories and watch films; admission
to the exhibitions is free.
DH
WEST:BERLIN EXHIBITION
To anyone who realises how crazy Berlin’s history
is, it’s not surprising at all that the new West:Berlin
exhibition is located in an elegant palace in the former
East Berlin that itself was dismantled and stored in
West Berlin for many years. For half a century, West
Berlin was a heavily politicised and highly subsidised
‘Island of Freedom’ marooned inside the GDR, and
500 exhibits show the development of this half of the
city, from post-war ruins via its function as a showcase
of the western Allies, and from the years of decline
after the fall of the Wall in 1989 to its current revival.
Photographs, art, objects, cars and an audio-salon with
the sounds of the half-city demonstrate why West for
many is still best.
WEST:BERLIN, 14 Nov - 28 June. Open Tue-Sun
10:00 - 18:00, Wed 12:00 - 20:00. Ephraim-Palais, G-3,
Poststr. 16, tel. +49 30 24 00 21 62, www.west.berlin.
Admission €7, first Wednesday of the month free.
Until 30 Nov
1914–1918: The First World War
Nine million soldiers and almost six million civilians died
in the First World War, the first industrialised, total war in
history. It changed not only subsequent armed conflicts,
but also influenced political thought and action for many
years to come. This special exhibition offers a multifaceted
overview of the war as well as its prerequisites and
consequences, and approaches this previously unknown
escalation of violence from a broad perspective.
DH
Until 31 Dec
Moshe Gershuni – No Father No Mother
Moshe Gershuni (Tel Aviv, 1936) is one of the most
important Israeli artists. His existential work - an ongoing
project over more than forty years - is uncompromising,
and his paintings, drawings and sculptures leave plenty
of room for associations. Gershuni works horizontally. He
covers the floor with paper and crawls across with his
hands soaked in paint.
NA
WHERE TO WATCH SPORTS
KILKENNY IRISH PUB
Fun & football, a drink or two and a bite to eat go hand
in hand. And if that’s what you’re after, the Kilkenny Irish
Pub is where you find it. Watch all major sport events,
Champions League, Premier League, Formula One etc.
on large screens, together with locals and tourists from
all over the world.QG-3, Am Zwirngraben 17-20,
Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 283 20 84,
info@kilkenny-pub.de, www.kilkenny-pub.de. Open
from 12:00. EGBW
Until 4 January 2015
Die Welt der Wikinger – The World of the Vikings
The new exhibition at the Martin-Gropius-Bau uses
spectacular archaeological finds, including a huge ship, to
illustrate the history of the Vikings in northern Europe and
beyond.
MG
VENUE LIST BERLIN
AD – ADMIRALSPALAST, Friedrichstraße 101-102,
tel. +49 30 47 99 74 99, www.admiralspalast.de.
CH – COLUMBIA-HALLE, Columbiadamm 13-21,
tel. +49 30 698 09 80, www.columbiahalle.de.
DH – DEUTSCHES HISTORISCHES MUSEUM,
Unter den Linden 2, tel. +49 30 20 30 44 44, www.dhm.de.
THE HARP
Just one minute off Kurfürstendamm, The Harp is a
haven for music and sports fans alike. Two bars, a cozy
ambience, four large TVs and two big screens provide
the setting for a great night out, or an afternoon full
of excitement and entertainment while following
international football, rugby and other sports, or
playing a round of darts.QB-4, Giesebrechtstraße
15, Charlottenburg, MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30
22 32 87 35, info@harp-pub.de, www.harp-pub.de.
Mon-Fri from 13:00, Sat, Sun from 10:00. EBW
MG – MARTIN-GROPIUS-BAU, Niederkirchnerstraße
7, tel. +49 30 25 48 60, www.gropiusbau.de.
MS – MAX-SCHMELING-HALLE, Am Falkplatz, tel.
+49 30 44 30 45, www.max-schmeling-halle.de.
NA – NEUE NATIONALGALERIE, Potsdamer
Straße 50, tel. +49 30 266 26 51, www.neuenationalgalerie.de.
O2 – O2 WORLD, O2-Platz 1, tel. +49 30 20 60 70 88
99, www.o2world-berlin.de.
PH – PHILHARMONIE, Herbert-von-Karajan-Straße
1, tel. +49 30 25 48 80, www.berliner-philharmoniker.de.
RS – RADIALSYSTEM V, Holzmarktstraße 33, tel.
+49 30 28 87 88 50
19
Mitte
Mitte
Between Mitte and Charlottenburg, the huge Tiergarten
park began as the Great Elector’s hunting grounds in the
1600s. Traffic passes through it, doing a dosey-doe around
the Siegessäule victory column. The Straße des 17. Juni
leads east to the Brandenburger Tor; just south of it are the
state museums of the Kulturforum and the Potsdamer Platz
district with its soaring corporate buildings.
Getting there
Arrivals by plane and train usually end up at Hauptbahnhof
station, central for the city but not really close to anything.
S-Bahn trains from the top level link to the east and west
of the city, while the fancy new two-stop U55 U-Bahn line
takes sightseers straight to Brandenburger Tor.
Pocket Walk
Start off at Brandenburger Tor and the Reichstag before
heading south past the Holocaust memorial and Potsdamer
Platz to the Topographie des Terrors exhibition and the
adjacent stretch of Berlin Wall. Follow Zimmerstraße for
the Stasi Exhibition and Checkpoint Charlie. Walk north
along Friedrichstraße and turn right at Mohrenstraße for
Gendarmenmarkt square, before ambling to Unter den
Linden via Bebelplatz. Walk east past the Neue Wache and
Berliner Dom, turn left into Spandauer Straße, and pass
through Hackescher Markt station. Visit the Hackesche
Höfe complex before walking down Oranienburger Straße
for the Neue Synagoge. You can catch the S-Bahn from here
back to Brandenburger Tor.
Since reunification, the old city centre district Mitte
(meaning ‘middle’) has rightly snatched back the title of
most-visited district from Charlottenburg. On and off the
boulevard Unter den Linden are baroque and classical
monuments to Prussian culture. The architecturally
humbler but more neighbourhood-like Scheunenviertel
area allows the casually chic to saunter from courtyard
gallery to sidewalk café. Only traces are left of the Jewish
community that lived here from the late 17th century,
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H
GERMAN
treats include Maultaschen (ravioli-like pockets in broth)
and Schnitzel.QF-3, Tucholskystraße 48, Mitte, MU
Oranienburger Straße, tel. +49 30 28 09 80 84, www.
schwarzwaldstuben-berlin.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. €€.
TUNBS
ALPENSTUECK
Wiener Schnitzel with Schwabian potato salad,
Maultaschen with Bavarian creme are just a few of the
dishes available at Alpenstueck, a designer restaurant with
a traditional twist. The chef prepares southern German and
Austrian home cooking with fresh ingredients, changing
the menu every three days. A feast for the eyes and the
palate.QF-2, Gartenstraße 9, Mitte, MS Nordbahnhof,
tel. +49 30 21 75 16 46, www.alpenstueck.de. Open
18:00 - 01:00. €€. TUGBS
ZILLE-STUBE
The name is in homage to Berlin artist Heinrich Zille,
whose illustrations line the walls above upholstered
banquettes and wooden banisters. Dominating the menu
are typical Berlin meat dishes like Boulette, Kohlroulade
(beaf-stuffed cabbage leaves), Sauerbraten (marinated pot
roast) and Rostbratwurst.QG-3, Spreeufer 3, Mitte, MU
Klosterstraße, tel. +49 30 242 52 47, www.zillestubenikolaiviertel.de. Open 12:00 - 22:00. €€. E
Restaurants & Cafés
JOSEPH ROTH DIELE
A wonderfully cosy dark brown bar owned by the same
people who run the Ave Maria religious shop, right next
door to Joseph. It’s named after a prolific Jewish writer
whose quotes decorate the walls and who lived nearby in
the 1920s when this street was the beating heart of Berlin’s
nightlife. A nicely-priced lunch and delicious Flammkuchen
pies are served, and it’s a great place for a beer or wine
after a show at the Wintergarten Varieté, opposite.QE-4,
Potsdamer Straße 75, Tiergarten, MU Kurfürstenstraße,
tel. +49 30 26 36 98 84, www.joseph-roth-diele.de. Open
10:00 - 24:00. Closed Sat, Sun. €. TENGBSW
MUTTER HOPPE
Head down the winding staircase into this restaurant in the
Nikolaiviertel district. You’ll find the space divided into cosy,
low-ceilinged nooks with upholstered banquettes and
historic photos and drawings on the painted walls. Heavy
meat dishes are the meals to order here. The kitchen offers
sides not served at other German restaurants, including
green beans wrapped in bacon. Make reservations; or try
their sister restaurant Julchen Hoppe, a few doors further
towards the Spree.QG-3, Rathausstraße 21, Mitte, MS/U
Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 241 56 25, www.prostmahlzeit.
de/mutterhoppe. Open 11:30 - 24:00. €€. TEGB
RESTAURATION 1840
Located in a vaulted space under the S-Bahn tracks, this
traditional Berlin restaurant designed to recall the golden
1920s serves regionally sourced international cuisine, 1840
creations, including local favourites such as Sülze (cold
knuckle), Buletten (meatballs) and Currywurst sausage.
There are good seasonal wines, and the bar staff can
shake up a great cocktail.QG-3, Am Zwirngraben 8-10,
MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 24 72 74 01, post@
berlin-1840.de, www.berlin-1840.de. Open from 10:00.
EGBW
SCHWARZWALDSTUBEN
Bambi meets Berlin chic at the trendy Black Forest
themed Schwarzwaldstuben, which has a friendly
atmosphere, bedraggled animal heads mounted on
the walls and heavy mix-matched furniture. Regional
ASIAN
KAMALA
Respectable Thai cuisine is served in a colonial atmosphere,
where heavy, dark wood tables are adorned with woven
placements, orchids and tall candles. The Tom Yam Gai soup
is crowded with chicken and piping hot, and the curries are
rich and buttery.QF-3, Oranienburger Straße 69, Mitte,
MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 283 27 97, www.
kamala-thaifood.de. Open 12:00 - 23:30, Fri, Sat 12:00 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:30. €€. AB
MONSIEUR VUONG
Hanoi and Saigon have landed in a chic little red Vietnamese
restaurant in Mitte. There are only five dishes and two daily
specials, but they’re so delicious you’ll be ordering a second
bowl of rice to soak up the leftover sauce. After your gói
bo, try some jasmin or artichoke tea. You’ll have to fight
the über-cool crowds for a table as Mr. Vuong doesn’t take
reservations.QG-2, Alte Schönhauser Straße 46, Mitte,
MU Weinmeisterstraße, tel. +49 30 99 29 69 24, www.
monsieurvuong.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €. S
FINE DINING
AIGNER
One of Berlin’s best places to eat, Aigner is truly international,
as its name, concept and all the old furnishings originate
from a famous Viennese café that closed in the 1980s.
Master chef Herbert Beltle and his team serve awardwinning dishes with ingredients sourced fresh from the
market.QF-3, Französische Straße 25, Mitte, MU
Französiche Straße, tel. +49 30 203 75 18 50, www.
aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de. Open 12:00 - 02:00. €€€.
TUGBSW
BORCHARDT
Borchardt didn’t have to invest much to make a good
first impression - the mere height of the ceiling and the
building’s original tile floors whisper class and luxury. The
money and creative energy goes into the kitchen, which
comes up with a different menu each day to keep its
regular clientele surprised. Leave the pork to the Germans,
21
Mitte
Mitte
PARIS-MOSKAU
Many train passengers rolling into Hauptbahnhof station on the line between Paris and Moscow - have wondered
about this unusual half-timber house, stubbornly
positioned between new government offices and hotels.
Inside, a wonderful gourmet restaurant has been serving
up up al la carte and set menu meals for 30 years now.
Expect dishes such as a rack of lamb in Dijon herb crust,
tuna steak and roast duck breast. On weekdays, there’s a
lunch menu as well.QE-3, Alt-Moabit 141, Tiergarten,
MS/U Hauptbahnhof, tel. +49 30 394 20 81, www.
paris-moskau.de. Open 12:00 - 15:00; 18:00-24:00, Sat,
Sun 18:00 - 24:00. €€€. A
INDIAN
Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00
Mon-Sun from 18:00
Restaurant PARIS-MOSKAU
Alt-Moabit 141
tel. 394 20 81
restaurant@paris-moskau.de
www.paris-moskau.de
the beef dishes here are delectable.QF-3, Französische
Straße 47, Mitte, MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 30
81 88 62 62, www.borchardt-restaurant.de. Open from
11:00. €€€. GB
FACIL
At the Mandala Hotel’s Michelin-starred gourmet restaurant,
chef de cuisine Michael Kempf creates elegantly light fare
using only fresh, local products direct from the market.
The menu changes daily and has an emphasis on tasty
vegetables and exotic herbs. Facil’s design is a post-modern,
glass-box Asian pavilion with a large central skylight that
retracts.QE-4, Potsdamer Straße 3, Tiergarten, MS/U
Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 590 05 12 34, www.facil.de.
Open . Closed Sat, Sun Open 12:00 - 15:00, 19:00 - 23:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. €€€€. UGBW h
FISCHERS FRITZ
The restaurant’s name comes from a tongue-twister and
the light, fish-focused menu is for a very refined palate.
Chef Christian Lohse has won several of the Michelin stars
that appear none too oft in Germany. The German chef first
trained in Dijon and has since pleased gourmands such as
those at The Dorchester in London and the Sultan of Brunei
(as a private chef ). The dining room has light woods, deep
carpets and a fireplace.QF-3, Charlottenstraße 49, Mitte,
MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 30 20 33 63 63, www.
fischersfritzberlin.com. Open 12:00-14:00; 18:30-23:00.
€€€€. PAG hh
AAPKA
Located on a pretty street corner near Zionskirchplatz,
Aapka offers healthy vegetarian, curry and grill dishes. You
can drop by for the lunch menu and on Sunday join the
young Prenzl’ Berg crowd for a relaxed brunch - or drop by
later for cocktails.QG-2, Kastanienallee 50, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Rosenthaler Platz, tel. +49 30 44 01 04 94,
www.aapka.de. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 01:00.
€€. B
INTERNATIONAL
NOLA’S AM WEINBERG
This hip restaurant overlooks a sloping park. The
predominantly Swiss menu lends itself to the
terrace, which is perfect for pretending to be in the
mountain air of St. Moritz. Breakfast is served until
16:00 and you can order meals until midnight.QG-2,
Veteranenstraße 9, Mitte, MU Rosenthaler Platz,
tel. +49 30 44 04 07 66, www.nola.de. Open 10:00 01:00. €€. TUGBS
REINHARD’S
Reinhard’s friendly staff can whisk a coffee to your table
in no time, or if you’re here for the food, one of the light
meals. The large restaurant is situated in the Nikolaiviertel,
and is well-positioned for a break during a city walk.QG-3,
Poststraße 28, Mitte, MU Klosterstraße, tel. +49 30 242
52 95, www.reinhards.de. Open 09:00 - 24:00. €€-€€€.
TGBS
TRAUBE
In an elegant building with an interior by Hans Kolhoff, ‘The
Grape’ serves gourmet cuisine together with an excellent
range of wines. Dishes are often Alpine-inspired: crossover food from southern Germany, Alsace, Switzerland
and Austria. Guests can choose from a la carte dishes
or compose their own menus, with or without wines.
The two-course set lunch menu is great value.QF-2,
Reinhardtstraße 33, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel.
+49 30 27 87 93 93, www.traube-berlin.de. Open 12:00
- 15:00, 18:00-23:45, Sat 18:00 - 23:45. Closed Sun. €€€.
TGB
CAFÉS
BARCOMI’S DELI
Barcomi’s is well known for its house-roasted coffee and
luscious American hand-made baked goods. In the cake
window there are several kinds of cheese cake, lemon
meringue cake, devil’s food cake, pecan pie and other
heavenly creations. Bagels can be eaten with Philly
cream cheese spreads, and at this Mitte outlet there
are also salads, sandwiches and soups. The Kreuzberg
Kaffeerösterei outlet (Bergmannstraße 21) has fresh coffee.
QF-5, Sophienstraße 21, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt,
tel. +49 30 28 59 83 63, info@barcomis.de, www.
barcomis.de. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. €.
TGBS
DIGITAL EATERY
Just a click away from Brandenburg Gate, inside the
historical 1902 Carlton Hotel building, Microsoft’s very
first café showroom worldwide is a relaxing, untouristy
spot to recharge. Browse the small but excellent
selection of pasta or meat dishes prepared fresh at the
counter (€8,90), or the soup, paninis and cakes. Recharge
your electronic devices or use the free wifi. Best of all
are the digital toys that allow you to go online, try out
Microsoft products or play Xbox games. To celebrate the
first anniversary of Microsoft Berlin, the Digital Eatery offers
a 20% discount on the lunch menu in November; simply
mention “Berlin In Your Pocket discount”.QF-3, Unter
den Linden 17, Mitte, tel. +49 30 39 09 70, www.
digitaleatery.de. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00,
Sun 12:00 - 18:00. W
SANKT OBERHOLZ
A large two-floor café overlooking the busy street crossing.
Something of a public workspace for IT entrepreneurs from
the surrounding Silicon Allee internet startups, it’s the ideal
place to crack open a Mac and get some work done using
the free wifi and electricity plugs. Or just come for the
coffee, bagels, muffins and New York cheesecake.QG-2,
Rosenthaler Straße 72a, Mitte, MU Rosenthaler Platz,
tel. +49 30 24 08 55 86, www.sanktoberholz.de. Open
08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 03:00, Sat 09:00 - 03:00, Sun
09:00 - 24:00. GW
Digital Eatery
BACK TO SCHOOL
The Die Schule restaurant in the Prenzlauer Berg district
is not just a place for trying German cuisine. It’s the
watering hole for adult students from all around the
world who are learning German at the GLS language
school, in the same complex. They’re greatly helped by
the location of the school in a vibrant neighbourhood
with plenty of bars, restaurants and quirky boutiques.
DIE SCHULEQKastanienallee 82, Prenzlauer Berg,
tel. +49 30 780 08 95 50, www.gls-restaurant.de.
GLS LANGUAGE SCHOOLQtel. +49 30 78 00 89
27, www.gls-berlin.de.
SOPHIENECK
A favourite of locals and tourists alike, Sophieneck is one of
the most charming cafés in Mitte. Located near Hackescher
Markt since the revamp of the district in 1984, it has resisted
trendification, staying true to its warm mishmash decor
of art nouveau and poster art. The menu offers delicious
Central European fare, accompanied by an international
wine list.QG-2/3, Große Hamburger Straße 37, Mitte,
MU Weinmeisterstraße, tel. +49 30 283 40 65, www.
sophieneck-berlin.de. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00
- 02:00.
Nightlife
BARS
AUFSTURZ
The great 19th-century explorer Alexander von Humboldt
lived in this building, but nowadays the only expeditions
done here are through the long drinks menu, listing dozens
of excellent Belgian, German and other beers. Have a Kwak
beer to really kick off your night. Prices are reasonable
and the place looks good, with changing modern art
exhibitions on the walls. Our favourite Oranienburger
Straße haunt.QF-3, Oranienburger Straße 67, Mitte,
MS Oranienburger Straße, tel. +49 30 28 04 74 07,
kontakt@aufsturz.de, www.aufsturz.de. Open from
12:00. EB
ESCHSCHLORAQUE RÜMSCHRÜMP
An island of insanity in a sea of overpriced Hackescher
Markt pomp: this veritable den of delights and monsters
can be found hidden at the dark end of a graffitied
courtyard. There are disturbing metal beasts sticking from
the crumbling walls, affordable beers and cocktails, a stage,
plenty of smoke, and a wonderful set of characters intent on
having a good night out. In summer, the outdoor cinema in
the back yard shows foreign films in original version.QG3, Rosenthaler Straße 39, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt,
post@eschschloraque.de,
www.eschschloraque.de.
Open 14:00 - open end Open from 14:00. ENBW
23
Mitte
Mitte
CASINO
SPIELBANK BERLIN
The casino at Potsdamer Platz has French roulette,
American roulette, baccarat, poker, blackjack, Sic
Bo, bingo roulette and slot machines. Upstairs, the
restaurant and Baccara Bar serves drinks and food from
the a la carte menu. Newcomers to the game can book
a tour including game instructions.QE-4, MarleneDietrich-Platz 1, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz,
tel. +49 30 25 59 90, www.spielbank-berlin.de. Open
11:00 - 05:00. Admission €2,50. Minimum age is 18,
ID required; dress code is smart casual.
REINGOLD
A lounge glowing in amber tones recalls the thirties with
an oversize drawing of Thomas Mann’s forlorn offspring,
Klaus and Erika, and leather and velvet seating. Though
it often has a DJ, no one dances here. It’s a setting for
making stationary moves on your date, or your tapas.QF2, Novalisstraße 11, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel.
+49 30 28 38 76 76, info@reingold.de, www.reingold.de.
Open 19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon,
Sun Open from 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. UB
CLUBS
NEW
KNUTSCHFLECK
Opening in October, the ‘hickey’ is Berlin’s newest
Burlesque-style bar, located on Alexanderplatz opposite
the Park Inn hotel. Run by a group of local ladies, this is a
café, Biergarten, restaurant, cocktail bar and show theatre
in one. Expect a programme of events held on the stage,
including performances inspired by Coyote Ugly, Rocky
Horror Picture Show, Pulp Fiction, Moulin Rouge and
more. There’s also Berlinerisch food, beer and cakes,
and a selection of 150 cocktails that fluctuate in price as
demand changes.QG-3, Alexanderstr. 3, Mitte, MS/U
Alexanderplatz, www.knutschfleck-berlin.com.
MEIN HAUS AM SEE
It’s all about seeing and being seen at some Mitte bars; the
‘My Lake House’ makes it very easy with its large slope of
seating steps overlooking a landscape of granny furniture
lit up by discoball sparkles and all draped with nattering
locals and backpackers from adjacent hostels. Open 24/7,
it’s a cafe, bar and restaurant all at the same time. On
the menu are drinks, exotic coffee varieties and chilli hot
choc, as well as great breakfasts (till 18:00), tasty burgers,
pasta dishes and snacks. At night, DJs spin music.QG2, Brunnenstraße 197, Mitte, MU Rosenthaler Platz,
tel. +49 30 27 59 08 73, info@mein-haus-am-see.com,
www.mein-haus-am-see.blogspot.de. Open 24 hours
Open 24/7. €. TUENGBSW
KAFFEE BURGER
The patterned wallpaper and wood panelling has withstood
decades of the alternative scene’s smoke and its stuck-in-theSocialist-Sixties-look is perfect for DJ/author Vladimir Kaminer’s
wild and sweaty Russendisko nights. Happenings like poetry
slams and jams start evenings that end with DJs spinning
anything from Balkan and surf rock to samba.QG-2, Torstraße
60, Mitte, MU Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz, tel. +49 30 28 04 64
95, www.kaffeeburger.de. Open from 21:00. E
WEEK-END CLUB
A club, bar, gallery and lounge set on the 12th floor of the
beautifully hideous Haus des Reisens (the GDR state travel
agency specialising in saying ‘no’) on the corner of OttoBraun-Straße.QG-3, Alexanderplatz 5, Mitte, MS/U
Alexanderplatz, www.week-end-berlin.de. Open ThuSat 23:00-04:00.
Soda Club
Sightseeing
LANDMARKS
BRANDENBURGER TOR
Berlin’s landmark monument, built by Carl Langhans
in 1792, is the last remaining of 14 city gates. Nike, the
goddess of victory, drives the four-horsepower chariot
atop the gate. German armies used to begin their parades
here, the fascists spoiled the gate by staging their torchlit marches through it, the war badly damaged it, and
then the Wall essentially bricked the patched-up gate in
for decades. Berliners celebrated the Wall’s fall in 1989 by
standing on it in front of the gate, and after renovations the
gate is the proud focus point of the renewed square again.
QF-3, Pariser Platz, Mitte, MS/U Brandenburger Tor.
GENDARMENMARKT
Twin cathedrals-turned-museums (dating to the early
1700s), the Konzerthaus (from 1818, by Carl Langhans)
and a row of luxury hotels make up this classic square. The
name stems from the mid-1700s when military regiments
were stationed here.QF-3, Markgrafenstraße, Mitte, MU
Französische Straße.
NEUE SYNAGOGE
The gilded cupola of the New Synagogue is one of the most
eye-catching sights in Mitte. Exhibits strikingly balance
the restoration of the Alhambra-inspired synagogue from
1866, with preserved evidence of its destruction, first
PUBS
KILKENNY IRISH PUB
The three large rooms within the Hackescher Markt S-Bahn
station offer more than enough space for natives and
tourists to eat homemade food, meet and mingle, party
and follow live sports events. Large TVs and screens make
sure that you won’t miss a single goal. Irish and German
beer, whiskey and other cold beverages flow freely.QG-3,
Am Zwirngraben 17-20, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt,
tel. +49 30 283 20 84, info@kilkenny-pub.de, www.
kilkenny-pub.de. Open from 12:00. EGBW
Kilkenny Irish Pub
Soda
Club
House - Rń´B - Soul
Danceclassics - electro
KulturBrauerei
on Kristallnacht on November 9, 1938, and then through
Allied bombs. Documents and photographs remember the
thriving Jewish community of the neighbourhood, many of
whom worshipped here in what was the largest synagogue
in Germany. A subtle but effective sound installation adds
to the experience.QF-3, Oranienburger Straße 28-30,
Mitte, MS Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 88 02 83 00,
www.centrumjudaicum.de. Open Sun, Mon 10:0020:00, Tues-Thur 10:00-18:00, Fri 10:00-17:00; Mar & Oct
until 14:00 on Fri; Nov-Feb also Sun-Thu until 18:00. Sat
closed. Admission €3,50/3.
NIKOLAIVIERTEL
Berlin’s tiny medieval heart is the Nikolai Quarter, whose only
truly medieval-looking building today is the Nikolaikirche.
The church dates to 1230 and was rebuilt along with the
entire quarter in the 1980s to mark Berlin’s 750th birthday
in the area in which the fishermen’s settlement first began.
No one was trying to outdo Walt Disney here, and many
of the buildings have the simple, concrete facades that
the GDR government could afford. The small shops in the
area mostly deal in toys and souvenirs and tourists gladly
fill the sunny tables at the restaurants that face the river.
On Rathausstraße, there’s a row of restaurants that flaunt
old-fashioned Berlin cuisine and atmosphere. Other rebuilt
historic buildings in the area date to the 1700s, such as the
Ephraim-Palais and Knoblauchhaus. Both have changing
exhibits related to Berlin.QG-3, Nikolaikirchplatz, Mitte,
MU Klosterstraße, www.stadtmuseum.de.
25
Mitte
Mitte
www.inyourpocket.com
POTSDAMER PLATZ
Once a busy intersection at the modern heart of a thriving
metropolis, Potsdamer Platz was heavily damaged in the
war, and suffered again when most remaining buildings
were demolished to make way for the Wall’s death strip.
Hotel and office skyscrapers now add a cosmopolitan edge
to the city, while to the east Leipziger Platz is almost rebuilt.
The most popular public space and architectural attraction
is the Sony Center, with its huge atrium and tent-like
roof, best viewed at night for its impressive lighting.
The neighbouring DaimlerChrysler complex holds
architecture by Renzo Piano and Richard Rogers, and the
Arkaden shopping mall.QE/F-4, MS/U Potsdamer Platz.
REICHSTAG
The name together with its monumental size make most
people associate Germany’s neoclassical parliamentary
building with the Nazis, but they have little history here. After
hosting parliamentary sessions since 1894, it was set on fire
just one month after Hitler was appointed chancellor in
January 1933. It was a conference centre in the years during
which it abutted the Wall, while later artist Christo famously
wrapped it in cloth. It was used as parliament again after a
reunited German government returned to Berlin in 1999.
Renovated by Sir Norman Foster, this building is perhaps
the most public federal building in the world through its
glass dome. On the rooftop, photographs documenting
the building’s history circle the rim above the parliament
chamber. Two ramps spiral up the side of the dome,
an engineering feat even more fascinating than the
panoramic view from the top. It’s best to book an entry
time to the dome or for the 90-minute guided tour of
the building in advance online; otherwise queue up
for remaining places at the visitor centre just across the
road. Photo ID is required.QF-3, Platz der Republik 1,
Tiergarten, MU Bundestag, www.bundestag.de/
htdocs_e/visits. Open 08:00 - 23:00 Prebooked rooftop
access every 15 minutes. Guided tours at 09:00, 10:30,
12:00, 13:30, 15:30, 17:00, 18:30, 20:00. Admission free.
CHURCHES
DEUTSCHER DOM
The baroque ‘German Church’ from 1701 was completed
with an impressive domed tower in 1785; badly damaged
by fire in the war it was only renovated in the 1980s.
Owned by the state, the bare interior now houses an
exhibition about the development of parliamentarian
democracy in Germany - and how it came to fail so tragically
in the last century. Be sure to see the views from the windows
and the impressive building models on the top floor. Free
tours in English are possible throughout the day; no booking
is required for individual visitors.QF-3, Gendarmenmarkt
1, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 22 73 04 31, www.
bundestag.de/kulturundgeschichte/ausstellungen/
wege. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
FRANZÖSISCHER DOM
The northernmost domed tower in the Gendermenmarkt’s
grand architectural triptych dates back to 1785, and
similarly to its counterpart was badly damaged in the
war. It now has regular concerts in the simple baroque
Friedrichstadtkirche church to the rear. Enter from the
other side for the Huguenot museum (in German and
French only), dedicated to the thousands of French
protestants who moved to Berlin in the 17th century.
Yet another entrance leads to the viewing balcony at 40
metres above street level, with great views all around.
QF-3, Gendarmenmarkt 5, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel.
+49 30 20 64 99 22, www.franzoesischer-dom.de. Open
12:00-17:00, viewing balcony 10:00-19:00, closed Mon.
Admission €2/1, viewing balcony €2.50/1.
EXHIBITION BLACKBOX COLD WAR
Checkpoint Charlie
Friedrichstraße 47 / corner Zimmerstraße | 10117 Berlin-Mitte
Daily 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Visitors’ service info@bfgg.de
More information www.zentrum-kalter-krieg.de
HERE, CONTEMPORARY HISTORY COMES ALIVE
Schützenstr. 70 | Berlin-Mitte
(Nähe Checkpoint Charlie)
www.currywurstmuseum.com
BERLINER DOM
The fourth incarnation of this Protestant church dating from
1905 might not look as massive if the Stadtschloss were
still standing across Unter den Linden (the GDR regime
demolished the castle in 1951). The royal Hohenzollern
dynasty worshipped and was buried here. The climb up
to the dome’s rim is forgiving, with broad staircases, side
exhibit rooms and good views.QG-3, Am Lustgarten,
Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 20 26 91 36,
www.berlinerdom.de. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 20:00 Oct-March open until 19:00. Admission €7/4.
Anfahrt | Directions
U6 (Kochstr. | Checkpoint Charlie)
U6 / U2 (Stadtmitte)
EINE AUSSTELLUNG ZUM
ANFASSEN. (AUS)PROBIEREN. MITMACHEN.
TOUCHING. TESTING. TAKE PART.
MEMORIALS
FÜHRERBUNKER
One lonely signpost mark the site where Hitler committed
suicide on April 30, 1945. For the last month of his life,
Hitler lived roughly eight meters below ground in an
air-raid shelter topped by a four-metre-thick, reinforced
concrete ceiling. The unremarkable spot can be reached
by walking to the end of In den Ministergärten, off
Ebertstraße. A parking area surrounded by a prefabricated apartment complex covers the location, which
was entirely sealed off during the complex’s construction
in 1988-89. The bunker was once accessed through the
Festsaal (ballroom) behind the Reichskanzler-Palais on
Wilhelmstraße.QF-3, In den Ministergärten, Mitte,
MS/U Potsdamer Platz.
MEMORIAL TO THE MURDERED JEWS
OF EUROPE
This bluntly named memorial avoids any vagueness
surrounding the term Holocaust. Six million Jews are
estimated to have been killed by the Nazis and this site
serves as Germany’s national memorial to those victims.
The design by American architect Peter Eisenmann is a
field of 2,700 concrete stelae, or pillars, of varying height,
creating an undulating landscape that fills two city blocks.
The memorial has an undergound information centre
which is not suitable for children.QF-3, Cora-BerlinerStraße 1, Mitte, MS/U Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49 30 26
39 43 36, besucherservice@stiftung-denkmal.de, www.
stiftung-denkmal.de. Information centre open 10:0020:00, Oct-Mar 10:00-19:00. Closed Mon. Admission
free.
MUSEUMS
BLACK BOX COLD WAR
The exhibition at Checkpoint Charlie discusses the state of
the world during the Cold War, explaining the global links
between the Berlin Wall, the Korean War and the Cuban
missile crisis. Along the street a free gallery of photos and
texts highlights the main events that took place here.QF4, Friedrichstraße 47, Mitte, tel. +49 30 216 35 71, info@
bfgg.de, www.bfgg.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission
€5/3,50.
ONE YEAR
MICROSOFT BERLIN
The first publicly accessible Microsoft Center in the world
opened on Berlin’s Unter den Linden boulevard a year
ago, on 7 November 2013. The historical 1902 Carlton
Hotel building with its great architectural details (try
to spot the cats and mice around the side door) is the
most plugged-in building in the street. The Digital Eatery
café on the ground floor (see the review elsewhere in
this guide) has more than just good food and drinks –
visitors can use the free wifi, recharge their devices and
try out a range of Microsoft products, both hardware
and software, with staff at hand to answer questions.
The atrium behind the café is used for meetings,
performances and parties, while upstairs corporate
clients are wowed in the meeting room with 360° video
walls. Microsoft Berlin also has offices and a ‘Microsoft
Ventures Accelerator’ for start-ups in the building.
To celebrate their birthday, In Your Pocket readers get a
20% discount on the price of lunch at the Digital Eatery
café in the month of November, simply by mentioning
“Berlin In Your Pocket discount” at the cash desk. There’s
a fresh selection of pasta and meat dishes prepared
daily; see www.digitaleatery.de for the menu of the day.
MICROSOFT BERLIN
QUnter den Linden 17, Mitte, tel. +49 30 39 09 70,
www.microsoft-berlin.de. Café open 09:00 - 19:00,
Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.
27
Mitte
The cluster of majestic nineteenth century neoclassic
buildings on the tip of the island in the Spree offers
the avid or the temperate museum-goer a number of
impressive collections of art, history and ethnology,
covering many facets of ancient and oriental culture, as
well as their cross-overs into modernity.
ALTE NATIONALGALERIE
Cézanne, Rodin, Monet, Degas and Liebermann
are some of the artists whose works hang around
this museum of 19th-century art. The temple-like
structure itself was built in 1876, and is surrounded by
a beautifully battered colonnade.QG-3, Bodestraße
1-3, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 266 42
42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu
10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission €10/5.
ALTES MUSEUM
This neoclassic building by Prussia’s star architect
Schinkel was custom-made in 1830 for the art
collection of the royal Hohenzollerns. Classical
antiquities were the focus, and today the museum
uses pottery and sculptures to take you on a wellpresented tour through ancient Etruscan, Greek and
Roman history.QG-3, Am Lustgarten, Mitte, MS
Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.
smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00.
Closed Mon. Admission €10/5.
NEUES MUSEUM
Built in 1855, damaged in the war and only restored
in 2009, the ‘New Museum’ is new again and is full
of ancient art. The excellent Egyptian Museum and
Papyrus Collection are housed here, with spectacular
finds such as the famous busts of Queen Nefertiti and
King Echnaton. The Pre- and Early History collection
has finds from ancient Troy and Lycopolis to medieval
Germany. One room exhibits eleven rediscovered
statues that were considered to be ‘degenerate art’
by the Nazis.QG-3, Bodestraße 1-3, Mitte, MS
Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.
smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00.
Admission €12/6.
PERGAMON MUSEUM
The Pergamon museum is undergoing major
renovations, with the north wing and the hall with
the famous Pergamon Altar closed until 2019.
Visitors can still see the market gate of Miletus, the
amazing blue-tiled Ishtar Gate and processional way
from Babylon, and the museum of Islamic Art.QG-3,
Am Kupfergraben, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt,
tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum.
Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admission
€12/6.
DEUTSCHES CURRYWURST MUSEUM
According to the myth, currywurst is Berlin’s very own fastfood creation. A spicy sausage snack that first became popular
in the late 1940s, these days currywurst can be found at train
stations and street corners across the city. This quirky museum
explains the colourful history of this culinary creation. There’s a
shop with sausage accessories and you can taste currywurst
too.QF-4, Schützenstraße 70, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel.
+49 30 88 71 86 47, www.currywurstmuseum.com. Open
10:00 - 20:00. Admission €11/8,50, Mon 20% less.
DAIMLER CONTEMPORARY BERLIN
Inside the Haus Huth, the last remaining pre-war building
on Potsdamer Platz, selected works from the Daimler
company’s art collection is presented in four well-curated
exhibitions per year. The collection has mainly abstract
artworks from the 20th century until now, and a few of the
larger sculptures are on permanent display in the streets
around the museum.QE-4, Alte Potsdamer Straße 5,
Tiergarten, tel. +49 30 25 94 14 20, www.sammlung.
daimler.com. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Admission free.
DALÍ - THE EXHIBITION AT POTSDAMER PLATZ
The Spanish master of surreal, Salvador Dalí, left a rich
heritage of amazing artworks when he went to moltenwatch land himself. Over 450 exhibits can be viewed at
this permanent exhibition near Postdamer Platz. See true
genius and craftsmanship in the many paintings, sketches,
books, films, objects, and documents that are on show here.
English-language tours can be booked in advance.QF-4,
Leipziger Platz 7, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49
700 32 54 23 75 46, www.daliberlin.de. Open 12:00 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Admission €11/9, tours €6.
DEUTSCHES HISTORISCHES MUSEUM
The former imperial arsenal - a pretty, pink, early 18th century
building by the Spree - houses the impressive German
History Museum. The 7000 objects in the main building give
excellent insight into what makes Germany tick, and there
are regularly changing exhibitions in the dazzling extension
by architect I.M. Pei. You can rent an audio tour set for €3
or join the English-language highlights tour on Saturdays at
13:00.QF-3, Unter den Linden 2, Mitte, MS Hackescher
Markt, tel. +49 30 20 30 40, www.dhm.de. Open 10:00 18:00. Admission €8/4. Under 18 free.
GEDENKSTÄTTE BERLINER MAUER
(BERLIN WALL MEMORIAL)
The excellent national memorial site for the divided
Germany has a documentation centre covering the Berlin
Wall’s history in text, slides and dramatic film footage.
An unscathed section of Wall runs along the street; walk
behind it to peer through a crack in the Hintermauer rear
wall to see a preserved section of death strip as it looked
in the 1980s, complete with a patrol road, wires and a
watchtower. Nearby, the wooden Chapel of Reconciliation
is built on the spot of a church demolished to make way
for the border defences. Walk on towards Mauerpark for
several more open-air exhibitions.QF-2, Bernauer Straße
111 & 119, Mitte, MS Nordbahnhof, tel. +49 30 467
98 66 66, infoberliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de, www.
berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de. Open 09:30-19:00,
Nov-Mar 09:30-18:00. Mon closed (outdoor exhibition
open 24hrs). Admission free.
GEMÄLDEGALERIE
Berlin’s largest art museum has 72 rooms full of works spanning
the 13th to 18th centuries. German masters include Dürer,
Cranach the Elder, and Holbein; the Italians are represented by
Botticelli, Titian, Raphael. The Dutch rooms are especially good
with a Vermeer and the world’s largest Rembrandt collection.
QE-4, Matthäikirchplatz 8, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer
Platz, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, service@smb.museum,
www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00.
Closed Mon. Admission €8/€4.
International
HAMBURGER BAHNHOF
Berlin’s wonderful modern art museum is situated in a
converted train station. It’s well worth a visit by those curious
about the expressiveness of a sculpture made of animal fat
(Joseph Beuys) or urban dwellers fixated by bars of neon
lighting (Dan Flavin). Andy Warhol and Marcel Duchamp are
the other familiar stars of this post-1960s collection.QE-2,
Invalidenstraße 50-51, Mitte, MS/U Hauptbahnhof,
tel. +49 30 39 78 34 11, hbf@smb.spk-berlin.de, www.
hamburgerbahnhof.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €10/5.
MUSEUM FÜR FILM UND FERNSEHEN
(FILM AND TV MUSEUM)
Hooray for Hollywood, but remember that some of the
personalities that gave it glamour and style came from
Germany. Actors Marlene Dietrich and Peter Lorre, directors
Billy Wilder and Josef von Sternberg came out of a country
with a strong film-making tradition. Photo stills, footage, set
designs and costumes provide glimpses of the familiar, and
exhibits on Leni Riefenstahl’s shooting of Olympia (1936)
and Nazi entertainment cq propaganda films will impress
‘seen-that’ film buffs. The museum ends with special effects
and science fiction.QE-4, Potsdamer Straße 2 (Sony
Center), Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30
300 90 30, www.deutsche-kinemathek.de. Open 10:00 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon Admission €6/4,5.
MUSEUM FÜR NATURKUNDE
(NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM)
All the wonders of nature under one roof; a grand collection
illustrating the evolution of life as well as the diversity and
beauty of nature. The largest mounted dinosaur in the world
towers over visitors in the main hall, and elsewhere there’s
the aardvarks, the early 20th-century dioramas, meteorites,
the most famous fossil of Earth history (the ancient bird
Archaeopteryx lithographica), giant shells and the gorilla
Bobby from the primates hall.QF-2, Invalidenstraße 43,
Mitte, MU Naturkundemuseum, tel. +49 30 20 93 85
91, info@mfn-berlin.de, www.naturkundemuseumberlin.de. Open 09:30 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon. Admission €6/3,50.
museum
open daily: mon - sat 12 p.m. - 8 p.m.
sun + holidays 10 a.m. - 8 p.m.
(24th December closed)
Potsdamer Platz
entrance:
Leipziger Platz 7
Hômmage á S. Dalí by DaVial
MUSEUMSINSEL
Mitte
Infos: 0700 - 325 423 75** (0700DaliBerlin)
Tickets: www.DaliBerlin.de
(**0,14 € /Min. from a landline, mobile communications vary, max
0,42 € /Min.)|*only in combination with the entrance fee. Cannot
be combinded with other offers. Valid until January, 31st 2015.
With over 450 exhibits from private
collections this permanent exhibition
provides general insight into Dalí’s virtuous
mastery in almost all art techniques,
in Berlin’s lively city centre.
www.DaliBerlin.de
29
Mitte
PANORAMAPUNKT
Mitte
Shopping
DEPARTMENT STORES
ALEXA CENTRE
A mall at the eastern end of Alexanderplatz square, with
five floors and 180 shops, restaurants and cafés. There’s a
massive kids’ area with a cinema and the LOXX model train
exhibition.QG-3, Grunerstraße 20 (Alexanderplatz),
Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 269 34 00,
www.alexacentre.com. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00,
lower level from 08:00. Food court also open Sun 11:0019:00. LOXX open daily 10:00-19:00.
© Landesarchiv Berlin
PANORAMAPUNKT
It takes just 20 seconds on Europe’s fastest elevator to
get shot up to Berlin’s best viewpoint, on the 24th and
25th floor of this red brick skyscraper. Architect Hans
Kollhoff ’s magnificent 1930s-inspired building refers to
New York’s skyscraping glory days but also resembles
the Berlin bear, complete with a golden crown. On the
top floors there’s a short film and an exhibition about
the amazing history of Potsdamer Platz square, which
went from a world-class entertainment district to a Walldivided wasteland and back again within a generation.
The café and rooftop terrace offer great close-up views
of Berlin’s highlights: Brandenburger Tor, the Holocaust
memorial, Unter den Linden, the former Wall zone and
Tiergarten park.QE-4, Potsdamer Platz 1, Tiergarten,
MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 93 70 80, www.
panoramapunkt.de. Open 10:00-20:00, Nov-Mar
10:00-18:00. Admission €6,50/5, family ticket €15,50.
NEUE NATIONALGALERIE
You’d think that the art world had gone to minimalist
extremes when passing Mies van der Rohe’s empty glass
box of a museum; the 20th century treasures are all
underground. The marvellous collection includes Otto Dix,
George Grosz, Paul Klee, Wassily Kandinsky, Picasso and
Leger and many more modern artists.QE-4, Potsdamer
Straße 50, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49
30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon. Admission €8/4. Temporary exhibitions extra.
VIEWPOINTS
FERNSEHTURM (TV TOWER)
The skewered disco ball on the tower peering over rooftops
certainly brings a level of humour to Berlin’s skyline. The
368-metre television broadcast tower, completed in 1969,
70m higher than the Eiffel tower and the tallest building in
Germany, has an observation deck and the Sphere restaurant
with a rotating floor. Photos point out the landmarks for you.
QG-3, Panoramastraße 1a, Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz,
www.tv-turm.de. Admission €12/8.
MALL OF BERLIN
Opened in late September, this huge shopping
mall sits on the spot where the famous Wertheim
department store dazzled Berliners 100 years ago. The
huge billion-euro mall has all the usual fashion and
electronics retailers, a food court and supermarkets in
the basement. Centrepiece is a spectacular 23-metre
high covered piazza.QF-4, Leipziger Platz 12, Mitte,
MS/U Potsdamer Platz, www.mallofberlin.de. Open
09:00 - 22:00.
MARKETS
KUNST UND NOSTALGIEMARKT
Lining the way to the Pergamon Museum are canal-side
stalls carrying crafts and souvenirs including red-and-green
Ampelmännchen products.QF-3, Am Kupfergraben,
Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße. Open Sat, Sun 10:00 16:00 Open Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
Hotels
OVER €200
ADLON KEMPINSKI
The reconstructed, historic Adlon hotel has views of
the Brandenburger Tor and Under den Linden, unfussy
1920s-style rooms with cherry wood, black marble
and rich fabrics, and the staff provides impeccable
service. Often voted the best hotel in Germany and even
Europe, this is in fact the only place to sleep in Berlin.
QF-2, Unter den Linden 77, Mitte, MU Unter den
Linden, tel. +49 30 226 10, adlon@kempinski.com,
www.hotel-adlon.de. 375 rooms (304 singles €240 379, 304 doubles €216 - 478, 78 suites €531 - 7100).
PHAUFLGKDCwW hhhhh
hilton.com, www.hilton.com. 591 rooms (singles
€145 - 345, doubles €145 - 345, suites €220 - 1145).
Breakfast extra. PHARUFLEGKDC
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HOTEL DE ROME
Overlooking Bebelplatz, this top-class hotel occupies a
magnificent former bank building from 1889. Wooden
panelling, marble and even shrapnel damage pervade
the high-ceilinged lobby and rooms, and the bank’s vault
is now a 20-metre pool.QF-3, Behrenstraße 37, Mitte,
MS/U Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49 30 460 60 90, info.
derome@roccofortecollection.com, www.hotelderome.
com. 146 rooms (103 singles €395 - 495, 103 doubles
€395 - 495, 43 suites €595 - 4100).
MARRIOTT
Ten floors of superb rooms and conference facilities
overlooking the Platz. The lobby has a serenely spinning
3-tonne black granite globe, and the copper facade of one
wall plays an unearthly light show. That plus a wellness
centre and a classic Art Deco New York bar and grill make
this one of Berlin’s finest hotels.QE-4, Inge-BeisheimPlatz 1, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 22
00 00, www.marriott.com. 379 rooms (350 singles
€159 - 219, 350 doubles €159 - 219, 9 suites €350 1200, 80 executive room €199 - 259). Breakfast extra.
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RITZ-CARLTON
A gilt-edged hotel with superlative services, gourmet
dining and fake marble Corinthian columns lining
a sweeping staircase in the lobby. The classic dark
wooden bar opens with a ceremony every evening at
18:00 and serves over 400 fine fruit brandies.QE/F-4,
Potsdamer Platz 3, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer Platz,
tel. +49 30 33 77 77, berlin@ritzcarlton.com, www.
ritzcarlton.com. 302 rooms (singles €250 - 360, doubles
€280 - 440, 40 suites €330 - 5000). Breakfast extra.
PTHARUFLGKDC hhhhh
WESTIN GRAND
Enviably well-located and used in GDR times for Party
bigwigs, the Westin is classically furnished, with a copy of the
Adlon’s marble staircase situated in the lobby, a round pool,
an upmarket restaurant and suites with butler service.QF3, Friedrichstraße 158-164, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße,
tel. +49 30 202 70, info@westin-grand.com, www.
westin.com/berlin. 358 rooms (25 singles €136 - 350, 273
doubles €136 - 375, suites €379 - 930, 15 junior suites
€279 - 565, 1 presidential suite €986 - 1930). Breakfast
extra. PHARUFLGKDC hhhhh
€150-200
MANDALA
Excellent rooms and apartments for both short and longterm stays. The Potsdamer Platz hotel location has great
views over Tiergarten park and hosts the top-notch Facil
restaurant and Qiu lounge; the suites at Friedrichstraße 185190 are close to all the action.QE-4, Potsdamer Straße 3,
Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 59 00 00
00, welcome@madison-berlin.de, www.themandala.
de. 157 rooms (157 suites €130 - 5800). Breakfast extra.
PHAUFLKDW hhhhh
€75-150
HONIGMOND & GARDEN HOTELS
Two meticulously restored buildings with sparsely
furnished rooms with original wooded floors makes for
a homey feel. The nearby Garden Hotel dependence
(Invalidenstraße 122) has a garden with a lawn and goldfish
pond for frolicking around in summer.QF-2, Tieckstraße
12, Mitte, MS Nordbahnhof, tel. +49 30 284 45 50,
info@honigmond.de, www.honigmond.de. 24 rooms
(singles €95 - 155, doubles €125 - 225). AG
PARK INN BERLIN ALEXANDERPLATZ
Towering 40 stories over Alexanderplatz, Germany’s thirdlargest hotel is as central as it gets. Business rooms are all
renovated and stocked with a coffeemaker and ironing
board. By far the best choice for the direction-impaired.
QG-3, Alexanderplatz 7, Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz,
tel. +49 30 238 90, berlin.hotel@rezidorparkinn.com,
www.parkinn-berlin.com. 1012 rooms (318 singles
€89 - 125, 671 doubles €89 - 125, 23 suites €130 - 185).
Breakfast extra. POARFGKD hhhh
HILTON
Maybe it’s the excellent breakfast and not the privileged
view on Gendarmenmarkt that keeps guests coming back.
The formal rooms are supplemented by good restaurants
and exotic spa treatments.QF-2, Mohrenstraße 30,
Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 202 30, info.berlin@
31
Charlottenburg & the West
Follow what becomes an increasingly silken ribbon down
Kurfürstendamm (Ku’damm) and the setting becomes
more genteel. West Berliners meet in the bars and cafés
branching off Savignyplatz, even if the Szene has moved
east. Nearby but isolated from the hoi polloi is Schloss
Charlottenburg, the residence of King Friedrich I. This
chapter also covers other parts of western Berlin: leafy
Wilmersdorf and Schöneberg, the centre of gay Berlin
since the days of Christopher Isherwood’s Berlin Stories.
We’ve also included some nearby venues in Tiergarten
(officially part of Mitte) here.
Getting there
Charlottenburg’s nerve centre is Zoologischer Bahnhof
station, along the main west-east raised city railway and
easily reached from Hauptbahnhof or Spandau. From here’s
it’s a short walk to many hotels and sights, or else hop on
the M29 bus, going east along Tauentzienstraße or west
down Kurfürstendamm.
Pocket Walk: Charlottenburg
Explore Charlottenburg from Zoologischer Garten station.
Walk east past the Zoo to Breitscheidplatz for the ruins
and modern reincarnation of the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial
Church. Stroll further east down Tauentzienstraße for the
KaDeWe department store and other upmarket shops, or
head west along Kantstraße to leafy Savignyplatz for calm
cafés and refined dining, or southwest down grand old
Kurfürstendamm for more shopping.
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APRIL
This bistro is great value with a generous appetiser plate for
two and various specials. The dining is a bit more formal out
back, where tables get the white-linen treatment.QD-5,
Winterfeldstraße 56, Schöneberg, MU Nollendorfplatz,
tel. +49 30 216 88 69, www.restaurant-april.com. Open
10:00 - 24:00. €-€€. UNGBS
BAVARIUM
A Bavarian restaurant oddly located in the basement of the
Europa-Center mall by the Gedächtniskirche. Where buxom
waitresses plonk down hearty German dishes and big glasses
of Löwenbräu, Radler and Franziskaner beer, to the merry tune
of oompah-music. How much more German can it get?QD-4,
Tauentzienstraße 9-12 (Europa-Center), Charlottenburg,
MU Kurfürstendamm, tel. +49 30 261 43 97, www.
bavarium-berlin.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. TUG
KNESE
Alt-Berliner, traditional ‘Old Berlin’ cuisine, is on offer at rustic
Knese. Try the Königsberger Klopse, meatballs with potatoes,
the pork knuckle or the calf liver with apples, onions and
potatoes for a taste of the Berlin of yesteryear at reasonable
prices. There’s also a selection of international meals and
desserts for you to tuck in to. Wash it all down with some
good South-African wine.QC-4, Knesebeckstraße 63,
Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 88 41 34 48,
www.restaurant-knese.de. Open 11:00 - 01:00. €€. TB
ZILLEMARKT
It’s easy to imagine Heinrich Zille, a local artist famous for his
charming portraits of Berlin’s lower classes, stroll in and order a
jellied boiled pork, stuffed cabbage leaves or a Berliner Currywurst.
Zillemarkt serves breakfast, home-made cakes. lunch and dinner,
and you can down a Zillebräu beer in the glass-ceilinged bar.QC4, Bleibtreustraße 48a, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel.
+49 30 881 70 40, info@zillemarkt.de, www.zillemarkt.de.
Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. TB
Local cuisine
Wartburgstraße 54
Berlin - Schöneberg
Open daily from 18:00
Tel. 784 20 59
www.renger-patzsch.com
1000 m
sauerkraut, and boiled potatoes), Oma’s Rote Grütze (a vanilla
pudding with stewed red berries), and warm apple strudel
make up the menu of traditional Alt-Berlin and Brandenburg
cuisine.QD-5, Motzstraße 61, Schöneberg, MU ViktoriaLuise-Platz, tel. +49 30 21 96 98 61, schoeneberger_
weltlaterne@yahoo.de, www.schoeneberger-weltlaterne.
de. Open 17:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 02:00. €. TEB
SCHÖNEBERGER WELTLATERNE
Come back to old West Berlin at this wood-panelled tavern
on the southwest side of Viktoria-Luise-Platz. Schnitzel
variations, Berliner Eisbein (pork knuckle with pea puree,
W
ldstr
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RENGER-PATZSCH
Upscale German dining with a difference. The interior is kept
casual and simple, with all focus on the people and the food.
Serving regional cooking, you can order dishes such as sauteed
mushrooms in chervil sauce, pan-seared pike-perch and a
selection of tasty Alsatian flammekuchen.QD-5, Wartburgstraße
54, Schöneberg, MU Eisenacher Straße, tel. +49 30 784 20
59, www.renger-patzsch.com. Open 18:00 - 23:30. €€.
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If ‘downtown’ to you means wide, traffic-filled streets,
crowds of shoppers, five-star hotels and tall buildings,
then Charlottenburg comes closest to fitting the bill in
Berlin. The Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche church, left
as a ruin after the war, is the nexus of activity; between
it and Zoologischer Garten station, over a billion euros is
being invested in impressive highrises, hotels and offices.
Renger-Patzsch
33
AUSTRIAN
OTTENTHAL
The pleasure in this intimate, classy bistro is that of fresh,
seasonal ingredients, often from the owner’s home town,
Ottenthal. Daily specials might include foam of goose liver
or venison pie with apple-celery salad. The portion of Wiener
Schnitzel could feed two. Service is excellent, and you can
rely on wine recommendations (the list is extensive). Wines
and other products from Ottenthal such as pumpkinseed oil,
are available for purchase. This is truly one of our favourite
spots.QC-4, Kantstraße 153, Charlottenburg, MU
Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 313 31 62, www.ottenthal.
com. Open 17:00 - 01:00. €€€. VGB
Suksan
ASIAN
SUKSAN
A short stroll from West Berlin’s shops and sights, Suksan
is a cosy Thai restaurant decorated with ample bamboo
poles and palmleaf roofs. Drop by for the lunch specials,
or dine on spicey Thai dishes accompanied by wine or
fresh coconut milk, perhaps followed by a cocktail.QD-4,
Ansbacher Straße 4, Schöneberg, MU Wittenbergplatz,
tel. +49 30 21 01 86 73, kontakt@suksan.de, www.
suksan.de. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri 12:00 - 24:00, Sat
16:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00.
JJ
Zillemarkt
Caféhaus • Restaurant
Over 100 years of
comfort and quality
Traditional German cuisine
SCHNITZELEI
Nearly as far from central Berlin as Austria, Schnitzelei is
well off the beaten track, but well worth looking up. No
tacky alpine decorations here, but a light take on the genre,
with oak patterns and subdued lighting creating a good
vibe. There are delicious schnitzels in different variations,
though you may also want to try the German tapas.QB-3,
Röntgenstraße 7, Charlottenburg, MU Richard-WagnerPlatz, tel. +49 30 34 70 27 78, www.schnitzelei.de. Open
16:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. €€. TVGBS
FINE DINING
FIRST FLOOR
A Michelin star has been the beacon over Matthias Dieter’s
restaurant for years now, and visiting gourmands who
can’t move well after a seven-course meal make a point of
staying at the Palace. The cuisine has touches of France and
the Far East, and turbot with caviar or prawn is often on
the menu.QD-4, Budapester Straße 45, Charlottenburg,
MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 25 02 10 20,
www.palace.de. Open 18:30 - 22:30. Closed Mon, Sun.
€€€€. G h
HUGOS
The InterContinental’s Michelin-starred French restaurant
on the 14th floor has stunning views across the park
to Potsdamer Platz. Chef Thomas Kammeier’s cuisine is
equally dazzling; expect subtle creations blending fine
flavours in the lightest of dishes.QD-4, Budapester Straße
2, Tiergarten, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 26
02 12 63, www.hugos-restaurant.de. Open 18:30 - 22:30.
Closed Mon, Sun. €€€€. TUGW h
INTERNATIONAL
Mon-Fri 12:00-24:00
Sat, Sun, Holidays 10:00-24:00
Tel. 030-881 70 40
Bleibtreustr. 48a, Berlin-Charlottenburg
www.zillemarkt.de
DIEKMANN
Herr Diekmann was one of the first to grace Berlin’s simple
tables with some French finesse, even if it was in what
began as a sandwich shop in 1976. Shelves and drawers
of an old Kolonialwaren store line the walls, and Diekmann
still uses French techniques to primp excellent ingredients.
Always on the menu are oysters and a selection of French
cheeses.QC-4, Meinekestraße 7, Charlottenburg, MU
Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 883 33 21, www.diekmannrestaurants.de. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00.
€€€. UGB
DRESSLER
A good place to go if you yearn to relive something of
Berlin’s roaring 1920s. Expect Art Deco wooden paneling,
large mirrors, and good bistro and proper restaurant
meals served in a very relaxed atmosphere. The menu
changes every week. Also in Mitte, at Unter den Linden
39.QC-4, Kurfürstendamm 207, Charlottenburg, MU
Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 883 35 30, www.restaurantdressler.de. Open 08:00 - 01:00. €€€. UGB
SUKSAN
Sawatdi Kap – welcome to Suksan. Experience a
temple for Thai food and cooking culture in the
heart of West Berlin, offering varied dishes with
captivating aromas and tasty combinations that
will tickle the palate. Quality, freshness, and
healthy and original ingredients are central to our
dishes, without losing sight of modern cuisine.
Under bamboo roofs, Suksan seats over 60 guests
in Thai settings. Let us take you on a culinary trip
to the land of smiles.
DUKE
Creative international crossover meals are served in the
aptly named Ellington Hotel restaurant, set in a dazzling
1920s building near the Ku’damm. The open kitchen allows
you to watch chef cook Florian Glauert create culinary
treats.QD-4, Nürnberger Straße 50-55, Charlottenburg,
MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 683 15 40 00, www.
duke-restaurant.com. Open 11:30 - 23:00. €€€-€€€€.
EINHORN
A fabulous vegetarian lunchbar, with standing space only.
Every day there’s a completely different menu, with European
and Mediterranean as well as Arab and Asian dishes.QC-4,
Mommsenstraße 2, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße,
tel. +49 30 881 42 41, www.einhorn-catering.de. Open
10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. €. NGS
ITALIAN
FRANCUCCI’S
Francucci’s kitchen churns out fresh, fresh food, with homemade pasta and bread and plenty of regional ingredients in
dishes like the veal scallop with herbs, potatoes and black
truffles.QB-4, Kurfürstendamm 90, Charlottenburg, MU
Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 323 33 18, www.francucci.
com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. TVGBSW
LA FORCHETTA
An upmarket restaurant well within the city limits but
overlooking lake Halensee. Only fresh Italian food is served
here, including a delicious oven baked lamb. In summer,
a romantic terrace is available.QA-5, Königsallee 5b,
Wilmersdorf, MS Halensee, tel. +49 30 892 85 97, info@
la-forchetta-berlin.de, www.la-forchetta-berlin.de. Open
12:00 - 24:00. B
LOCANDA
A tiny restaurant where Gianni can be found welcoming
guests, cooking, pouring wine, serving food and washing
dishes, all the while singing along to Italian classics. The
pasta, fish and meat dishes are simple, and all simply
delicious. Ask for the three-course surprise menu. Opposite
the Schaubühne theatre.QB-4, Lehniner Platz 2,
Charlottenburg, MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 31 80 69
68. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. €. TNGBS
Ansbacherstrasse 4
(corner of Kurfürstenstrasse)
tel. 21 01 86 73, www.suksan.de.
100m to KaDeWe and ZOO Berlin
TRAVEL FAR.
EAT
AT HOME.
RESTAURANT & COCKTAIL LOUNGE
ORIGINAL
THAI
FOOD
Ansbacher Strasse 4
corner Kurfürstenstrasse
U-Bhf Wittenbergplatz
Telefon 030.21 01 86 73
Telefax 030.21 01 86 88
www.suksan.de
35
ZWÖLF APOSTEL
The alley next to the S-Bahn tracks leads to a grand interior
with classicist decoration and angels on the walls. The
Italian food - including wood-oven pizzas - served here
is excellent, and from Monday to Friday the business
lunch options offer good value. Also at Georgenstraße 2,
under the S-Bahn track in Mitte.QC-4, Bleibtreustraße
49, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 312
14 33, www.12-apostel.de. Open 08:00 - 01:00. €€.
TNGBS
JAPANESE
SACHIKO SUSHI
An innovative kaiten sushi restaurant - the oldest in town,
dating back to 1995 - has little boats circling the restaurant
with some of the best sushi in town. Not afraid to serve
classic and new sushi varieties with world wines, here’s
your chance to have bonito with Sauvignon Blanc, or
tuna rolls with Riesling. Beneath the railway arches.QC3, Jeanne-Mammen-Bogen 584, Charlottenburg, MS
Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 313 22 82, www.sachikosushi.
com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon.
€€. TGBS
MAROOUSH
Refined Egyptian-oriental opulence with a modern
twist and gourmet food. The combined restaurant,
shisha lounge and cocktail bar has a luxurious and
tasteful décor enhancing the equally exotic menu.
Puff on a shisha as you await your meal or come
on Friday or Saturday for ‘dinner and dance’, with
belly-dancers, live music and a party atmosphere.
QC-4, Knesebeckstraße 48, Charlottenburg,
MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 887 11 83 35,
www.marooush.de. Open 15:00 - 01:00. E
CAFE KALWIL
A cosy and straight-friendly café in gay old Schöneberg.
Pink sofas and antique tables are arranged below glittering
chandeliers, overlooked by a dozen portraits of strapping
moustachioed men. There’s fair trade coffee, quality
teas, cakes by Wunderkuchen, sandwiches, light meals
and more.QD-4/5, Motzstraße 30, Schöneberg, MU
Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 23 63 88 18. Open 09:00 22:00. €€. ABW
GRENANDER MORNING GLORY
Pastries, muffins, croissants and rolls lie in waiting at
the counter of this modern, earth-tone café. Great for
breakfast, lunch or indeed something else to glorify your
morning.QD-4, Wittenbergplatz 3a, Schöneberg,
MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 75 52 77 21, www.
grenander.de. Open 08:00 - 22:00. €€. TUGBS
Nightlife
SPANISH
BARS
EL DORADO
Dark woods and coloured tile work make a proper setting
for this Spanish restaurant. The various steak cuts can
weigh up to a kilo. The non-red meat dishes include
Moorish and Catalan specialities and there’s also tapas if
you just want to snack while watching the boulevard’s
shoppers pass by.QC-4, Kurfürstendamm 203-205,
Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 88
92 65 82, www.eldorado-steakhaus.de. Open 11:00 02:00. €€. B
GREEN DOOR
This dimly-lit, cool bar doesn’t take itself too seriously. An
undulating wall with a recessed shelf for drinks leads to an
improbable end of Gingham-checked wallpaper. A padded,
green leather door protects those prone to bumping into things
after a few rounds. Most of the crowd is thirty and up, and quite
steady on their feet.QD-5, Winterfeldstraße 50, Schöneberg,
MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 215 25 15, www.greendoor.
de. Open 18:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00.
CAFÉS
CAFÉ AM NEUEN SEE
The perfect Berlin biathlon is riding a bike through
Tiergarten park, rehydrating with beer here, and
then renting a rowboat on the adjacent lake.
This café, restaurant and bar serves a breakfast of
champions until 16:00 as well as regional food,
coffee, cakes and cocktails. Food served till 22:00.
QD-4, Lichtensteinallee 2, Tiergarten, MS/U
Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 254 49 30, www.
cafeamneuensee.de. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun
09:00 - 23:00. €€-€€€. TUGB
CAFÉ IM LITERATURHAUS
Some guests may be sporting three-piece suits, straw hats,
polished canes and freshly fluffed pups, but you don’t have
to be all that precious about eating at this literary hangout.
Food runs from cheap sandwiches for aspiring writers
and critics, to lamb. The 19th-century building has airy
rooms that are pleasant to dine in on a sunny day.QC-4,
Fasanenstraße 23, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße,
tel. +49 30 887 2860, literaturhaus@literaturhaus-berlin.
de, www.literaturhaus-berlin.de. Open 10:00 - 17:00. €€.
GB
HEFNER
The most happening spot on Savignyplatz is this cool
cocktail bar on the corner with Kantstraße. Though the
lengthy cocktail menu includes all the favourites, Hefner
prides itself on having the best selection of Martini
cocktails in Berlin.QC-4, Kantstraße 146, Charlottenburg,
MU Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 31 01 75 20, www.hefnerberlin.de. Open 16:00 - 03:00, Sat 13:00 - 03:00. NB
ZWIEBELFISCH
The name Zwiebelfisch is, among other things, the term
used by printers to label a single letter that rebels and
appears in a font unlike the letters around it. Aging, but
still-kicking liberals come here to rest the weight of their
youthful ideals and trade wisecracks with long-time owner
Hartmut Volmerhaus. Jazz or classic music is piped in, and
a selection of papers and magazines helps stretch out
the beer or coffee. Hot meals, like goulash and Swabian
Maultaschen are served up until 03:00. The tall tables
abutting the bar are a brilliantly social arrangement.QC-4,
Savignyplatz 7-8, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel.
+49 30 312 73 63, www.zwiebelfisch-berlin.de. Open
12:00 - 06:00. €-€€. NBSW
JAZZ CLUBS
A-TRANE
Concerts at 22:00.QBleibtreustraße 1, Charlottenburg,
MU Ernst-Reuter-Platz, tel. +49 30 313 25 50, info@atrane.de, www.a-trane.de. Open 21:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
21:00 - 04:00. E
Café im Literaturhaus
More reviews online:
37
UNION JACK
A corner of Scottish highland in the heart of Berlin, this
whisky pub is one of Berlin’s first true pubs and continues
to draw the punters in with a collection of 401 whiskys
(from the best Scottish and Irish brands to Canadian and
Japanese bourbon) and various English and Irish beers.
Solid food is available too – home made snacks and and
Walkers crisps.QC-4, Schlüterstraße 15, Charlottenburg,
MS Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 312 55 57, www.
unionjack-berlin.de. Open 19:00 - open end. Closed Sun
Open from 19:00. Sun closed.
WHISKIES
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Schlüterstr.15, 10625 Berlin - Charlottenburg, Tel. 312 55 57, www.unionjack-berlin.de, Monday to Saturday from 19:00
Irish Harp
Charlottenburg, MU Richard-Wagner-Platz, tel. +49
30 32 09 14 40, www.spsg.de. Open 10:00-18:00; NovMar 10:00-17:00; Mon closed. New Wing 10:00-18:00,
Tues closed. Admission €12/8, New Wing €6/5. Photo
permit €3.
PUBS
THE HARP
A well-established Irish pub serving all the usual pub
grub favourites as well as soups, salads and a range of
homemade burgers. On tap there’s Guinness, Kilkenny, and
a choice of German beers. You can expect major sports
events to be beamed on screens, and there’s quiz nights
and live music too. The pub can be booked for special
occasions.QB-4, Giesebrechtstraße 15, Charlottenburg,
MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 22 32 87 35, info@harppub.de, www.harp-pub.de. Mon-Fri from 13:00, Sat, Sun
from 10:00. €-€€. EBW
CHURCHES
Union Jack
Sightseeing
LANDMARKS
German, Irish and international cuisine
Thursdays fun-quiz in German & English
Fridays and Saturdays live music from 21:00
Live sports events on big screens!
See our website for the event calendar
Open Monday – Friday from 1 pm
Saturday & Sunday from 10 am
Giesebrechtstraße 15 // Berlin-Charlottenburg
info@harp-pub.de • www.harp-pub.de
OLYMPIC STADIUM
The Olympic Stadium was originally built under the
direction of architect Werner March to host the 1936
Olympic Games. A good example of bombastic fascist
architecture, its size never fails to impress. The most
striking changes are the blue track and the seemingly
floating roof whose translucent skin offers shelter for
almost all of the 75,000 seats. On non-event days you
can visit the stadium using a multi-language audioguide,
or on an hour-long guided tour.QOlympischer Platz 3,
Charlottenburg, MS/U Olympiastadion, tel. +49 30
25 00 23 22, tour@olympiastadion-berlin.de, www.
olympiastadion-berlin.de. Open 09:00 - 19:00 June mid-Sep open until 20:00, Nov - mid-Mar 10:00-16:00.
Admission €7/5.
SCHLOSS CHARLOTTENBURG
The largest royal residence in Berlin, named for Prussia’s
first queen. Though it began as a modest summer palace
in 1695, today’s version, distinguished by its 505-meter
facade and central tower, took its final form in 1790.
You can take a guided or audiotour of the luxurious
and largely Rococo and Baroque apartments where an
eye-glazing number of royal Friedrichs and Wilhelms
resided. Also here is the largest collection of 18th century
French painting outside France, plus a beautiful Baroque
garden, mausoleum, and Belvedere teahouse with a
porcelain exhibition. Take bus M45 from Wagner-Platz or
Zoologischer Bahnhof.QA-3, Spandauer Damm 20-24,
GEDÄCHTNISKIRCHE
The ruined Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church, a stark reminder of wartime destruction, is West Berlin’s landmark
attraction. Kept as an open wound, the severe acknowledgement of Germany’s culpability is declared on a plaque:
‘The tower of the old church serves as a remembrance of
God’s judgement, which befell our people during the war
years.’The 1895 church was once a symbol of national pride:
even synagogues contributed to its funding. Inside is a gilded mosaic of the Hohenzollern dynasty. The modern chapel
and bell tower beside it were completed in 1961, and are
worth entering on sunny days for the amazing blue stained
glass windows. Concerts take place every week, many
of them free.QD-4, Breitscheidplatz, Charlottenburg,
MU Kurfürstendamm, tel. +49 30 218 50 23, www.
gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de. Open 09:00-19:00.
MUSEUMS
ALLIIERTENMUSEUM (ALLIED MUSEUM)
The Allied Museum covers 50 years of West German Allied
(US, British, French) relations in the US Army movie house
Outpost. The prize exhibit is the original sentry box from
the Checkpoint Charlie border crossing.QClayallee 135,
Zehlendorf, MU Oskar-Helene-Heim, tel. +49 30 818
19 90, www.alliiertenmuseum.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Wed. Admission free.
C/O BERLIN
On 30 October, the famed C/O photo gallery reopens in the
iconic Amerika-Haus building near Zoo Bahnhof. There’s
space for multiple exhibitions, and the gallery kicks off with
Will McBride’s series “I Fell in Love With the City” showing
how post-war Berlin awakened in the 1950s. Check the site
for opening hours and prices.QC-4, Hardenbergstraße
22-24, Charlottenburg, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel.
+49 30 28 44 41 60, www.co-berlin.org.
MUSEUM FÜR ASIATISCHE KUNST
Alongside special exhibitions dealing with everything
from Qing-dynasty painting to architecture, the Asian
Art museum has an impressive permanent collection
of Indian, Chinese, Japanese and Korean art and
archaeology. Each tradition has its own gallery, and
in the centre, a room dedicated to Buddhist art.
Chinese and Japanese painting and calligraphy are
of special interest, as well as Japanese woodcuts.
QTakustraße 40, Zehlendorf, MU Dahlem-Dorf,
tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open
10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Admission €6/3.
PARKS AND GARDENS
TIERGARTEN
This 255 hectare park full of paths, meadows, and
waterways is the most genteel of Berlin’s parks, but it’s
still a fine place for jogging, football, a picnic barbecue,
or nude sunbathing (weather permitting). The Siegessäule
(Victory Column) that stood in front of the Reichstag from
1873 until 1938 now serves as a roundabout and lookout
point in the middle of the park. The park’s café and beer
garden, Café am Neuensee, is at the southwestern end.
QC/D/E-3/4.
COLD WAR BERLIN
The physical division of Berlin during 28 years, and
the development of two completely separated cities
on both sides of the Wall that ran between them,
has led to huge differences that cannot be erased in
a matter of a few years. Key sights relating to this era
are the Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer in Prenzlauer
Berg, Checkpoint Charlie in Mitte with the Haus
am Checkpoint Charlie Wall museum, BlackBox
Cold War, Wall Panorama and Stasi exhibition,
and the Tränenpalast, the former border crossing
beside Friedrichstraße station. Get insights into
daily GDR life at the DDR Museum in Mitte and the
Museumswohnung WBS 70 out in the suburbs.
39
Shopping
SHOPPING CENTRES
BIKINI BERLIN
The new Bikini Berlin ‘concept mall’ is Berlin’s shopping
sensation of the year. Inside the renovated landmark 1950s
building is a set of boutiques selling everything from
fashion, beauty and electronics to art, plus a supermarket,
restaurants and cafes. On the lower level there are a dozen
cool pop-up box shops - but perhaps best of all is the huge
terrace with great views across the zoo.QD-4, Budapester
Straße 38-50, Charlottenburg, MS/U Zoologischer
Garten, tel. +49 30 55 49 64 54, www.bikiniberlin.de.
Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun Terrace
open 24hrs.
KAUFHAUS DES WESTENS (KADEWE)
Europe’s largest department store, Berlin’s answer to
Harrod’s has 64 escalators linking seven huge floors, with
two floors devoted completely to gourmet food. Have
oysters at the champagne bar to take the sting out of
your shopping spree.QD-4, Tauentzienstraße 21-24,
Charlottenburg, MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 212
10, www.kadewe.de. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Fri 10:00 21:00, Sat 09:30 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Hotels
OVER €200
DAS STUE
The luxurious, family-owned ‘living room’ hotel, set in the
1930s Danish embassy building, attracts an interesting
mix of creatives and business visitors. The 1920s-style
bar and many rooms overlook the zoo, with ostriches
and antelopes peering back at you. The rooms and grand
suites are spread across the old and new wings, adorned
with beautiful wooden and copper details. A small pool
can be found in the spa area, and there’s the first-class
Cinco restaurant.QD-4, Drakestraße 1, Tiergarten, MU
Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 311 72 20, www.das-stue.
com. 80 rooms (70 doubles from €200, 20 suites €290740). PHUFGKDCW
INTERCONTINENTAL
Near transport options, the Zoo and Tiergarten park,
the InterContinental offers quiet nights in modern and
spacious rooms, and conference facilities with intelligent
business solutions. After work, there’s gourmet food at
Hugos and live music at the Marlene Bar. Further relaxation
options can be found in the large spa complex, with
several saunas and fitness facilities.QD-4, Budapester
Straße 2, Tiergarten, MS/U Zoologischer Garten,
tel. +49 30 260 20, berlin@interconti.com, www.
interconti.com. 558 rooms (498 singles €165 - 350, 498
doubles €170 - 400, 60 suites €215 - 2500). Breakfast
extra.
PTHAUFLEGBKDCW
hhhhh
KEMPINSKI BRISTOL
The elite Kempinski and Adlon are sister properties, but
this is where well-travelled regulars feel more at home
- out of the limelight, but still in upmarket lodgings on
a swank corner of Ku’damm.QC-4, Kurfürstendamm
27, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30
88 43 40, reservations.bristol@kempinski.com, www.
kempinskiberlin.de. 301 rooms (249 singles €265 326, 249 doubles €322 - 447, 52 suites €470 - 1800).
Breakfast extra. PHARUFLGKDC
hhhhh
PALACE
Near the Europa Center shops and the zoo, gourmands
feast at the First Floor restaurant and guests schmooze in
the conference rooms that include Tai-Ping carpets, oak
panelling and fireplaces. The staidly furnished rooms are
large.QD-4, Budapester Straße 45, Charlottenburg,
MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 250 20,
hotel@palace.de, www.palace.de. 239 rooms (59
singles €200 - 300, 191 doubles €225 - 325, 32 suites
€325 - 2150).
PHARUFLGKDC
hhhhh
SAVOY BERLIN
Utterly un-Berlin, this stylish Cuban-flavoured abode
once made Latin-music lover David Byrne a happy
guest. Who knows who you’ll trade smoke rings
with in the cigar shop near the clubby Times Bar.
QC-4, Fasanenstraße 9-10, Charlottenburg, MS/U
Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 31 10 30, info@
hotel-savoy.com, www.hotel-savoy.com. 125 rooms
(45 singles €142 - 222, 62 doubles €152 - 232, triples
€192 - 272, 16 suites €202 - 292). ARFKD
hhhh
SOFITEL BERLIN KURFÜRSTENDAMM
The 11-story, French-style Sofitel impresses with sleekly
designed rooms with fine woods, contemporary art
and fantastic views from the upper floors. The curved
corner suites have sliding walls and elegant free-standing
bathtubs.QC-4, Augsburger Straße 41, Charlottenburg,
MU Kurfürstendamm, tel. +49 30 800 99 90, H9387@
sofitel.com, www.sofitel.com. 311 rooms (singles €230 280, doubles €240 - 300, 44 suites €280 - 950). Breakfast
extra.
SWISSÔTEL BERLIN
Every room here has a Lavazza espresso machine
and suites are cranking with Bang & Olufsen stereos.
When you’re done playing in your room, downtown
western Berlin beckons. You’ll never want to go home.
QC-4, Augsburger Straße 44, Charlottenburg, MU
Kurfürstendamm, tel. +49 30 22 01 00, berlin@
swissotel.com, www.swissotel-berlin.com. 316
rooms (219 singles €160 - 310, 219 doubles €160
- 310, 14 suites €310 - 480, 11 junior suite €260
- 410). Breakfast €21. PHARFLGD
hhhhh
WALDORF ASTORIA
Berlin’s newest luxury hotel, 118 metres high, occupies
a prime spot near Kurfürstendamm and the Kadewe
department store in western Berlin. Honouring its grand
New York heritage, it’s decorated in lavish Art Deco style,
with artworks and decoration in the spacious rooms,
and a café and bar with a 1920s Berlin theme. The library
on the 15th floor with its concierge and great views is a
comfortable place to relax. The Les Solistes restaurant run
by star chef Pierre Gagnaire offers fine dining and 650
wines.QC-4, Hardenbergstraße 28, Charlottenburg,
MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 814 00 00, www.
waldorfastoriaberlin.com. 232 rooms (doubles from
€250). PHAUFLGKDCwW
€150-200
BLEIBTREU
It’s hard to tell the hip guests from the hip neighbours that
share the deli and café fronting the boutique-lined street.
The designer rooms operate by remote-control but are
furnished using allergy-friendly, ecological, natural fabrics
and furniture.QC-4, Bleibtreustraße 31, Charlottenburg,
MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 88 47 40, info@bleibtreu.
com, www.bleibtreu.com. 60 rooms (15 singles €115 157, 45 doubles €125 - 182). ARGK
GRAND HOTEL ESPLANADE
Overlooking
the
Bauhaus
museum
between
Kurfürstendamm and Tiergarten park, the modern
Esplanade has bright, well-furnished rooms and
impresses with a large glass-covered atrium, the Harry’s
New York Bar and a sizeable spa and fitness centre.QD4, Lützowufer 15, Tiergarten, MU Nollendorfplatz,
tel. +49 30 25 47 80, www.esplanade.de. 394 rooms
(singles/doubles from €99, 40 suites from €139).
PTHAUFLGKDCW hhhhh
€75-150
BERLIN, BERLIN
Mostly known for its conference facilities, this large 1958
hotel is in a central but rather bland area just south of
Tiergarten park. The glam period lobby and restaurant give
way to comfortably furnished rooms, in a variety of styles.
There’s live sports action in the bar, while peace can be found
in the summer garden restaurant.QD-4, Lützowplatz 17,
Tiergarten, MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 260 50,
info@hotel-berlin.de, www.hotel-berlin.de. 701 rooms
(103 singles €100 - 195, 569 doubles €100 - 245, 29
suites €220 - 900). PHARUFLGKD
hhhh
BERLIN PLAZA
The Plaza has elegantly simple rooms equipped with
all modern conveniences, such as allergy-free bedlinen
and free wi-fi. The in-house Knese restaurant has solid
traditional Berlin cuisine, and an attractive terrace.
QC-4, Knesebeckstraße 63, Charlottenburg, MU
WEST BERLIN REVIVAL
After the Second World War, the western half of Berlin
found itself in a very curious situation. This group of city
suburbs, which included the chic shopping and theatre
district of Charlottenburg, was suddenly declared a
separate entity from the eastern part of the city, which
included the entire city centre district. After the fall of
the Wall, West Berlin went through a tough decade of
reorientation, as investment and visitors headed east
to the original city centre. Now however, the West is
undergoing something of a revival. Next to the newly
renovated Gedächtniskirche stands the gleaming new
Waldorf Astoria, overlooking the revolutionary Bikini
Berlin concept mall and the linked 25hours Hotel
Bikini Berlin. Just across the tracks, the C/O Berlin photo
gallery opens this autumn. If that’s not enough reason to
look west, the intriguing West:Berlin exhibition opens
in mid-November. Find information about all these
Western attractions elsewhere in this guide.
Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 88 41 30, info@plazahotel.
de, www.plazahotel.de. 131 rooms (singles €80 - 150,
doubles €79 - 180, triples €105 - 200). HLGKW
BEST WESTERN PRESIDENT
Huge leather reclining chairs, cosmetic tables and an oldtime clubby lounge make this a smart choice for business
travellers. Besides the restaurant and bar, there’s also a fitness
centre and multifunctional meeting rooms.QD-4, An der
Urania 16-18, Schöneberg, MS/U Wittenbergplatz,
tel. +49 30 21 90 30, info@president-hotel.de, www.
president-hotel.de. 178 rooms (25 singles €79 - 155, 153
doubles €96 - 183, 3 suites €189 - 305). Breakfast extra.
PHARFGKD hhhh
ELLINGTON HOTEL
Set in a beautiful 1920s building near Kurfürstendamm and
named after the American jazz legend, the Ellington’s rooms
have clean, understated and elegant design, with the Tower
Suites offering great views. The Duke hotel restaurant serves
up international cuisine in fabulous surroundings, and has
regular jazz brunches.QD-4, Nürnberger Straße 50-55,
Charlottenburg, MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 68 31
50, contact@ellington-hotel.com, www.ellington-hotel.
com. 285 rooms (singles €108 - 238, doubles €118 - 248,
suites €168 - 428). PJHARUFLK
SYLTER HOF
Sylt may be a skinny island in the North Sea, but these
suites in a high-rise are fat. For the cost of a normal room in
Berlin, you get a fully equipped kitchen too (a supermarket
is across the street) and rates go down for longer stays.
QD-3, Kurfürstenstraße 114-116, Schöneberg, MU
Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 212 00, info@sylterhofberlin.de, www.sylterhof-berlin.de. 160 rooms (80
singles €69 - 120, 40 doubles €99 - 180, 40 suites €129
- 210). HAG hhh
41
Prenzlauer Berg
Prenzlauer Berg
On a low hill northeast
of Mitte, ‘Prenzl’ Berg’ is an
old working-class district
in the former East Berlin
that came through the war
relatively unscathed. After
1989, the cool brigade
pounced on the area, and
houses that were once
home to East German
punks were renovated
in odes to pastel. The
number of wine shops and
young parents pushing
pricey prams indicates the level of gentrification here. The
best places to soak up the atmosphere are Kollwitzplatz,
Helmholzplatz and along Kastanienallee. One of Prenzlauer
Berg’s best attractions is the Kulturbrauerei culture centre,
set in a 19th-century brewery complex. This chapter also
covers some places in multicultural Wedding, just to the
west.
Pocket Walk: Prenzlauer Berg
Start walking uphill along Kollwitzstraße from U-Bahn
station Senefelder Platz. From leafy Kollwitzplatz turn
into beautiful Husemannstraße, which was already
restored in GDR times, and left into Sredzkistraße
where you’ll spot the Kulturbrauerei complex ahead;
enter beside the tall chimney and wander through its
courtyards to the northern exit. Cross Danziger Straße
and amble down Lychenerstraße to pretty, café-lined
Helmholtzplatz. Follow Raumerstraße west, turn left
down Pappelallee and cross underneath the U-Bahn
station to Eberswalder Straße; you’ll soon reach the
popular Mauerpark and the top end of Bernauer Straße
with its excellent Wall Memorial.
HOTEL
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Modern and light German food
on Berlin‘s catwalk no.1
KASTANIENALLEE 82 | 10435 BERLIN
FON: (030) 78 00 89 5 -50
info@restaurant-die-schule.de
www.restaurant-die-schule.de
Gre
uer
Allee
P
r. renzl
a
ZANDER
This award-winning restaurant is a fine blend of tradition,
innovation, and casual professionalism. Using mainly
regional products, Zander serves mouth-watering German
and international cuisine and excellent wines in a stylish
and intimate setting. Though zander (pike-perch) is a house
speciality, the perfectly-composed set menus are highly
recommended.QG-2, Kollwitzstraße 50, Prenzlauer Berg,
MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49 30 44 05 76 78, www.
zander-restaurant.de. Open 18:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. B
FAST FOOD
KONNOPKE’S IMBISS
The Ziervogel family started selling their famous Wursts
in 1930. This simple shack is a convenient stop for those
spilling out of the Eberswalder Straße U-Bahn; the Imbiss
is just south, beneath the tracks. To eat your Currywurst like
a true native, order it ohne darm (without the intestine skin
wrapping).QG-1, Schönhauser Allee 44b, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 442 77 65,
www.konnopke-imbiss.de. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat
12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. €.
FLEISCHLUST
A spot for those with healthy lust for flesh can grill ‘n
chill. Staff in 1930s outfits serve excellent steaks, cooked
anything from blue (extremely rare) to well done. For the
undecided, there’s a mixed grill, while the thirsty can delve
into the wine and cocktail menu.QH-1, Pappelallee 36,
Prenzlauer Berg, MS/U Schönhauser Allee, tel. +49 30
44 67 54 14, www.fleischlust-berlin.de. Open 17:00 open end.
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DIE SCHULE
Modern and light German food on Berlin’s prime catwalk.
Kastanienallee, also known as casting alley, is a perfect
place to watch Berlin street style. Die Schule has a terrace
facing the street and the airy interiors belie that these
rooms used to be classrooms (hence the name). You can
have all the German food classics, and even better: you
can have them all at once: try German Kleinigkeiten, small
samples of everything the local cuisine is famous for.QG2, Kastanienallee 82, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder
Straße, tel. +49 30 780 08 95 50, www.restaurant-dieschule.de. Open 11:00 - 24:00. BW
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GERMAN
RESTAURATION 1900
Our Kollwitzplatz favourite, 1900 exhibits some fascinating
photographs of the neighbourhood before (Trabant) and
after (Smart) 1989. It serves excellent Berlin and German
food, as well as some pasta and vegetarian options.
Come on Saturday morning to watch locals shopping at
the weekly market, and on Sundays to fill up at the allyou-can-eat breakfast buffet.QH-2, Husemannstraße
1, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49
30 442 24 94, www.restauration1900.de. Open 10:00 23:00. €-€€. TBSW
PRECISE MYER’S
Entered from a quiet courtyard, Myer’s is an upmarket
private hotel with smallish, classically furnished rooms
overlooking the garden. On the ground floor, a tearoom
has a pleasant summer terrace.QH-2, Metzer Straße
26, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49
30 44 01 40, info@myershotel.de, www.myershotel.
de. 51 rooms (8 singles €75 - 135, 33 doubles €85
- 185, 1 suite €195 - 345, 10 Premium €115 - 265).
HARG
Getting there
The U2 from Alexanderplatz feeds crowds onto Senefelderplatz and Eberswalder Straße, close to most attractions.
From Museumsinsel and Friedrichstraße you can use tram
M1 to Eberswalder Straße as well. U-Bahn station Bernauer
Straße and S-Bahn station Nordbahnhof are most convenient for a stroll along the Wall Memorial to Mauerpark.
GUGELHOF
During the early bloom of Kollwitzplatz’s gentrification,
the success of little Gugelhof was sealed by heads of state:
Schröder, Fischer, Albright and even Bill Clinton made
surprise visits. German, French, and Swiss dishes share
the menu; this is where to try flammekuchen, a thin-crust
Alsatian pizza. The atmosphere is lively and service is
friendly.QH-2, Knaackstraße 37, Prenzlauer Berg, MU
Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 442 92 29, gugelhof@tonline.de, www.gugelhof.com. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 24:00. €€. A
43
Prenzlauer Berg
ITALIAN
PIZZERIA I DUE FORNI
Atypical for Berlin, this Italian restaurant is not very chic, the
service is rather cheeky, and the whole place has the feel
of an overcrowded student canteen. But the cheap pizza is
highly praised, and the lively, convivial atmosphere of i Due
Forni is the perfect primer for a night out on the town.QG-2,
Schönhauser Allee 12, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder
Platz, tel. +49 30 44 01 73 33. Open 12:00 - 24:00. UB
Prenzlauer Berg
TOURIST INFORMATION
MUSEUMS
PRENZLAUER BERG
TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE
Prenzlauer Berg’s district tourist information centre
is inside the Kulturbrauerei complex. Staff advise
about events, nightlife, guided tours and sights.QG1/2, Schönhauser Allee 36, Prenzlauer Berg, MU
Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 44 35 21 70, www.
tic-berlin.de. Open 11:00 - 19:00.
ZIMMERMEISTER BRUNZEL’S MIETSHAUS
Gentrification has transformed many Prenzlauer Berg
apartments into deluxe dream houses; this fascinating
museum shows master carpenter Brunzel’s apartment
in its original state, with extensive information about its
construction, utilities, furnishing and the often squalid living
conditions around 1900 in Prenzlauer Berg and Berlin.QH-1,
Dunckerstraße 77, Prenzlauer Berg, MS Prenzlauer Allee,
tel. +49 30 445 23 21, www.ausstellung-dunckerstrasse.
de. Open 11:00 - 16:30. Closed Wed. Admission €2/1.
JAPANESE
SUSHI IMBISS AM WASSERTURM
Discounts at happy hour (weekdays 13:00 - 16:00) crowd
this five-table joint, but there’s takeout as well. Sake Maki,
California Make and vegetarian items all run about €3. All
sushi-lovers speak some Japanese, but if you need any
explanations, the Japanese owner/chef and staff speak
English.QH-2, Rykestraße 45, Prenzlauer Berg, MU
Senefelderplatz, tel. +49 30 44 04 57 06. Open 12:00 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. €€.
CAFÉS
ANNA BLUME
Named after a lyrical poem and with a sexy Mucha flower
girl on the wall, this is an excellent, relaxed café. Serving up
coffee, cakes, crepes, meals and the usual Berlin breakfasts,
it’s one of the better spots for people-watching or just
reading. Intriguingly, it also sells flowers (Blume) from the
connected shop next door – and the smell of coffee and
fresh flowers combines very well.QH-2, Kollwitzstraße 83,
Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49 30 44 04
87 49, www.cafe-anna-blume.de. Open 08:00 - 02:00.
SCHALL UND RAUCH
‘Noise and Smoke’ is a great place to enjoy a breakfast buffet
on lazy weekend mornings, or to down specials at the bar
at night together with a variety of artists, students and
young in-crowd. But it’s more than just a café - the adjacent
hotel has modern and affordable double rooms.QG-1,
Gleimstraße 23, Prenzlauer Berg, MS/U Schönhauser
Allee, tel. +49 30 443 39 70, www.schall-und-rauch.de.
Open 08:00 - 02:00.
Nightlife
SANTIAGO
This cocktail lounge overlooking Kollwitzplatz has a
somewhat dodgy interior – leather sofas and glitzy girl
statues that wouldn’t look out of place in a nightclub
– but manages to get the punters in with a range of
attractively priced offers like cocktails during the happy
(before 20:00) and blue hours (from 01:00). There’s an
eat-all-you-can dinner on Wednesday and brunch at
weekends.QH-2, Wörtherstraße 36, Prenzlauer Berg,
MU Eberswalderstraße, tel. +49 30 441 25 55. Open
16:00 - 03:00.
WEINSTEIN
An older crowd savours an evening of conversation
and wine at this cosy wine tavern. Pick a meal to
help anchor the 40 vintages available by the glass.
There are few better places to try the outstanding
German whites that usually don’t make it out of
the country and there’s also a selection of sherries.
QH-1, Lychener Straße 33, Prenzlauer Berg,
MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 441 18 42,
weinsten@weinstein.eu, www.weinstein.eu. Open
17:00 - 02:00, Sun 18:00 - 02:00.
WOHNZIMMER
If the TV show Friends had to relocate to Berlin, Phoebe
would vote to hang out here. The large ‘living room’ is
ideally set up for meeting people. Stools, chairs and
GDR-era tables are constantly being shuffled to make
room for the rumpled but attractive crowds. There’s
coffee and pastries in the morning.QH-1, Lettestraße
6, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49
30 445 54 58, www.wohnzimmer-bar.de. Open 09:00
- 04:00.
BARS
CLUBS
AUGUST FENGLER
A neighbourhood bar if there ever was one, there aren’t just
football tables downstairs, but a Kegelbahn (bowling alley)
too. The team behind the big wooden bar is friendly, and
the seating area is an undulating mass of coats and groups
of friends yakking up a storm. DJs play classics, soul, disco,
and funk in the small back dance room.QG-1, Lychner
Straße 11, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße,
www.augustfengler.de. Open 19:00 - 05:00.
GEBURTSTAGSKLUB
Twenty year-olds fill the two low-ceilinged rooms of
this otherwise spacious cellar. Don’t miss the mad
monthly drag party with Nina Queer. Like at many
clubs in Berlin, you have to brave the walk down a dark
courtyard.QH-2, Am Friedrichshain 33, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Schillingstraße, tel. +49 30 42 02 14 05,
www.geburtstagsklub.de. Open Fri, Sat, Sun 23:00
- 06:00.
PARKS AND GARDENS
Raumerstr. 8 [Helmholtzplatz], 40301770, tausche.de
MAUERPARK
The immensely popular ‘Wall Park’ has no greenery to speak
of; this is an intensely used piece of former border strip that’s
especially busy on Sundays when it hosts a flea market and the
immensely popular Bearpit Karaoke (every second Sunday from
15:00), where anyone can grab the microphone and sing for a
crowd of thousands.QG-1, Eberswalder Straße, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, www.mauerpark.info.
Shopping
BOOKS
SODA CLUB
In the courtyard of the Kulturbrauerei complex, Soda is
a fun club with an enthusiastic regular crowd. Salsa is
played on Thursdays and Sundays (€5, starting off with
a lesson hour), and on Fridays and Saturdays there’s five
dancefloors with electro, crossover, black and dance
classics - girls get in for free until 01:00.QSchönhauser
Allee 36, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße,
tel. +49 30 443 151 55, info@sodaberlin.de, www.
soda-berlin.de. Open , Thu 20:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00
- 07:00, Sun 19:00 - 04:00 Open Thu-Sun 19:00 - 04:00.
Sightseeing
LANDMARKS
KULTURBRAUEREI
Follow the yellow brick wall of this 19th-century
brewery and you’ll eventually find an entryway into a
nightlife Mecca that resembles an Old Town setting. A
cobblestone pedestrian way courses through the centre
of the complex, whose 25,000 square metres is filled with
bars, restaurants, clubs, galleries and a cinema. The only
thing you won’t find is freshly brewed beer; Schultheiss
shut down production here in 1967. Soda Club is a both
a restaurant and popular nightclub, and Kesselhaus and
Alte Kantine host anything from readings to theater to
live bands.QG-2, Schönhauser Allee 36-39, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Eberswalderstraße, tel. +49 30 44 31 51 52,
www.kulturbrauerei.de.
SHAKESPEARE & SONS
An excellent little living-room style bookshop that came to
Berlin from Prague, selling used and new English-language
books as well as coffee, tea, cakes and snacks. Leaf through
a classic novel while munching on banana bread.QH-1,
Raumerstraße 36, Prenzlauer Berg, MS Prenzlauer Allee, tel.
+49 30 40 00 36 85. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.
FASHION & SHOES
TAUSCHE TASCHEN
Bags with exchangeable flaps in over
100 different designs. Two flaps are
included and various insets equip the
bag to suit any occasion.QH-1,
Raumerstraße 8, Prenzlauer Berg,
MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49
30 40 30 17 70, info@tausche.de,
www.tausche.de. Open 10:00 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
MARKETS
FLOHMARKT AM MAUERPARK
Vegan snacks, bicycles, crafts, clothing, alternative souvenirs
and antiques - it’s all available (though not particularly
cheap) at the weekly Mauerpark flea market. Arrive early
to avoid the crowds.QG-1, Bernauer Straße 63-64,
Prenzlauer Berg, MU Bernauer Straße, tel. 0176 29 25 00
21, www.mauerparkmarkt.de. Open , Sun 08:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat Open Sun 09:00-15:00.
45
Friedrichshain
Friedrichshain
Friedrichshain is a lively old workers district that has
completely been taken over by rad nightlife venues, graffiti
and leftist students moaning about Touri’s encroaching on
their favourite watering holes. Tree-lined Simon-Dach-Straße
is full of cafés and bars, while Boxhagener Platz hosts the
popular Sunday fleamarket. In the former border zone along
the river, the ‘MediaSpree’ development plans for offices,
apartments and skyscrapers is passionately opposed by many
vocal locals who fear they’ll lose public access to the river. This
chapter also includes suburban sights east of Friedrichshain.
GERMAN
KEULE
Keule, pronounced ‘coy-ler’ and berlinerisch for ‘bro’, is an
authentic corner in an increasingly international district.
It serves regional cuisine classics such as soljanka soup, a
hefty farmer’s breakfast, traditional pork knuckle, cured
smoked pork and berry compote dessert. Later on, there’s
cocktails and sports on the large screen.QSimon-DachStraße 22, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel.
+49 30 22 34 55 01, www.keule-berlin.de. Open from
12:00. €€. AUB
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The very first thing that we learnt to bake together
with our mothers is now a fashionable little dessert
snack with its own café dedicated to it. Try ‘The King’
cupcake (with Elvis’ favourite ingredients), the sweet
‘Pretty in Pink’ or any of the other 20-odd creations.
There’s a good breakfast and coffee served at Cup
Str.
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SAN DIEGO STEAKHOUSE
Great steaks and drinks at low prices with friendly service
– what more does a meat-lover want? There’s a good
choice of beef and other meats, even a few vegetarian
options.QI-3, Karl-Marx-Allee 141, Friedrichshain, MU
Frankfurter Tor, tel. +49 30 42 02 37 77. Open 11:00 24:00. €. TUNGBS
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GLORY DUCK
Excellent Vietnamese-style Peking duck. This gorgeous
new place serves crispy, freshly grilled duck, served with
ginger-mango sauce, orange sauce, red curry and other
toppings. Or go for Vietnamese standards such as Pho or
one of the vegetarian options. There’s a good selection of
drinks and Asian cocktails too. The design alone is reason
to drop by; the dark Feng Shui interior has interesting
perspective lines, there’s a large harbour scene on one
wall and the toilets are decorated with 13000 psychedelic
stickers.QI-4, Sonntagstraße 31, Friedrichshain, MS
Ostkreuz, tel. +49 30 63 96 53 31, www.gloryduck.
de. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. €€.
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Pocket Walk: Friedrichshain
Get off the S- or U-Bahn at Warschauer Straße; enjoy the city
panorama from the bridge and glance back at the dainty
red-brick Oberbaumbrücke bridge before heading north into
the district. Turn right on Revaler Straße and left on SimonDach-Straße for Friedrichshain’s most touristy stretch of bars
and cafés. A right on Krossener Straße takes you to Boxi,
Boxhagener Platz, scene of the excellent Sunday flea market.
Walk north along Gärtnerstraße and Mainzer Straße to reach
the grand Stalinist-style Frankfurter Allee. Follow this west (it
becomes Karl-Marx-Allee) and turn right onto Friedenstraße
for a stroll and a beer in Volkspark Friedrichshain.
n-S
tr.
Getting there
From Mitte, hop on a train to S/U-Bahn station Warschauer
Straße, or to U-Bahn station Frankfurter Tor. From
Nordbahnhof or Prenzlauer Berg catch the M10 tram,
known as the party tram at night.
SCHNEEWEISS
Schneeweiß is extremely stylish, very popular, and
very, very white. The delicious Alpine and ‘new German
cuisine’ on the menu here is easily a match for the
chic interior, which has won accolades for its fantastic
design. This is the place to go if you’re looking for a fullon dining experience, not just food.QSimplonstraße
16, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel.
+49 30 29 04 97 04, www.schneeweiss-berlin.
de. Open 18:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. €€.
TGBS
S
Glory Duck
THE NEW DUCK IN TOWN
SONNTAGSTR. 31 // BERLIN-FRIEDRICHSHAIN
030 / 63 96 53 31 // gloryduck.de
MON-FRI 12-24 / SAT+SUN 14-24
Cake too.QJ-4, Krossener Straße 12, Friedrichshain,
MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel. +49 30 25 76 86
87, www.cupcakeberlin.de. Open 12:00 - 19:00.
TUVNGBSW
CAFÉS
KAUFBAR
At this homey café you can wash down your chocolate
croissant with either a coffee or carafe of red wine.
Excepting the wine, you can buy everything here to-go:
the lampshades, art work, chairs and even the ashtrays.
The only thing not for sale in the “Buy Bar” are their board
games.QJ-4, Gärtnerstraße 4, Friedrichshain, MS/U
Warschauer Straße, tel. +49 30 29 77 88 25, www.
kaufbar-berlin.de. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Tue, Wed 15:00 24:00. TUNGBSW
MACONDO
Macondo was the setting of García Márquez’ novel 100
Years of Solitude, and you could say that its languid tropical
atmosphere perseveres in this wonderful ‘reading café’.
There’s old furniture to sink in to, views over the Sunday
market, good coffee and original South American mate tea,
sipped through a silver straw. Bring a book, and time.QI4, Gärtnerstraße 14, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer
Straße, tel. +49 30 54 73 59 43, info@mancondo-berlin.
de, www.macondo-berlin.de. Open 15:00 - 02:00, Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 02:00. BW
47
Kreuzberg
Kreuzberg
Thanks to a large Turkish community and more
hippies, anarchists and alternative folks than you can
shake a bong at, Kreuzberg
feels neither east nor west.
It was the black sheep of
West Berlin, literally cornered up against the death
strip and left alone to play
loud music and draw on
the walls. By now, the protesting students of 1968
have grown grey alongside
the Turkish immigrants. Every year since 1987, Kreuzberg
relives its 15 minutes of fame during the traditional May
Day political demonstrations, which invariably turn into a
long night of stone-throwing and burning cars. Otherwise,
Kreuzberg is a perfectly safe district to wander through, and
it’s all about backgammon at the men’s clubs, café-sitting
along Landwehrkanal, and ambling down the popular Oranienstraße and Bergmannstraße drags.
This chapter also covers areas south of Kreuzberg: leafy
Treptow west along the river Spree, the Tempelhof
airport-turned-park which attracts thousands of visitors
in summer, and the upcoming Neukölln district. Here,
the Kreuzkölln area around Reuterstraße is increasingly
attracting hipsters, artists, artsy boutiques and weird
nightlife spots.
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KIMCHI PRINCESS
Though this is not Berlin’s first Korean restaurant, Kimchi
Princess is being hailed by the capital’s gourmets as the
first one to serve authentic dishes – that is, not drowned
in cream and sauce like most Asian food here. It’s indeed
excellent and spicy, and as a result it can be difficult to
find a free table in the evening.QH-4, Skalitzer Straße 36,
Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 163 458 02
03, www.kimchiprincess.com. Open 18:00 - 01:00. €€.
TUGBSW
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A sleek eatery with large pastel paintings of faces, cleancut design, and a surprising menu consisting of typical
Asian street food. There’s everything from Thai spring
rolls, Indonesian sate, and Cambodian noodle soup to a
Vietnamese banana dessert. Fresh juices and smoothies
too.QH-5, Paul-Lincke-Ufer 42, Kreuzberg, MU
Kottbusser Tor, tel. +49 30 69 53 33 22, www.chanberlin.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 24:00.
€€. UNGBSW
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ALTES ZOLLHAUS
A bit of countryside in the city - the beautiful old customs
house along an idyllic stretch of the Landwehrkanal has a
calm, rustic atmosphere in which to try regional specialities
featuring things such as goat’s cheese, dumplings, mustard
sauce and compotes.QG-5, Carl-Herz-Ufer 30, Kreuzberg,
MU Prinzenstraße, tel. +49 30 692 33 00, www.alteszollhaus.com. Open 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon, Sun. €€€.
TUGBW
Simply one of the best
Thai restaurants in town.
It feels crowded, steamy
and noisy, but that’s just
part of the authentic selfservice atmosphere; wait
till you sink your teeth in the fantastic food. The open
kitchen uses fresh vegetables and herbs that are flown
in from Bangkok; all the Thai classics are present. There’s
seating indoors and in the basement room, as well as
outside. Ask if you like it hot.QF-5, Bergmannstraße
88, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30
691 26 40, www.pagode-thaifood.de. Open 12:00 24:00. €. VBS
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Pocket Walk: Kreuzberg
Kreuzberg is best explored in two parts. From Platz der
Luftbrücke station walk west to Viktoriapark and climb the
Kreuzberg for views north over the city. Descend eastwards
and walk along genteel Bergmannstraße, perhaps
visiting a café or the market hall, before walking south to
Columbiadamm for access to the the former Tempelhof
airport, now a wonderful park.
Start a tour of the fascinating eastern end of Kreuzberg
at Kottbusser Tor U-Bahn station; wander north through
‘little Istanbul’ to Oranienplatz and follow the park to
the Engelbecken pond where you can follow the former
Wall along Bethaniendamm to Mariannenplatz, a centre
of Berlin subculture. Stroll down Waldemarstraße to
café-lined Lausitzerplatz and cross under the U-Bahn
line to lively Görlitzer Park. From here, go north into
Falckensteinstraße to discover more of Kreuzberg’s street
art, or head south along Ohlauer Straße and across
Landwehrkanal into the trendy ‘Kreuzkölln’ district for
cupcakes and cocktails.
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Getting there
The Bergmannstraße area is best reached from
Friedrichstraße station on the U6; get off at Mehringdamm,
or at Platz der Luftbrücke for the Viktoriapark. For the gritty
end of Kreuzberg hop on the U8 from Alexanderplatz
and pop up at Kottbusser Tor. The Kreuzkölln bars are
within pubcrawling distance of Schönleinstraße and
Hermannplatz stations, on the same line.
t
49
Kreuzberg
Sarod’s
SAROD’S
Kreuzberg’s friendliest Thai restaurant. The food is excellent,
healthy, fresh and gluten-free, with some unusual options
on the extensive menu such as the Lab (minced meat
with roast rice, coriander and spices). There’s a good
selection of wines too.QFriesenstraße 22, Kreuzberg,
MU Gneisenaustraße, tel. +49 30 69 50 73 33, www.
sarods.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. €€.
TGBSW
AUSTRIAN
AUSTRIA
Have your Wiener Schnitzel and Salzburger Fritattatorte
where they do it right, here in Austria. This corner
restaurant is known for its huge portions, so indulge in
the full experience or go for the half portion. The setting
is appropriatly alpine with heavy wooden furnishings and
antlers on the wall.QF-5, Bergmannstraße 30, Kreuzberg,
MU Gneisenaustraße, tel. +49 30 694 44 40, www.
austria-berlin.de. Open 18:00 - 24:00. €€. TUBS
Kreuzberg
RIEHMERS
The elegant and understated Riehmers restaurant serves
a fantastic Wiener Schnitzel (breaded veal escalope),
amongst seasonal dishes like roast pike perch and crepes
with roast apricots. The dining room is kept bare and
simple, while the calm summer terrace in the garden
overlooks a historic apartment complex for Prussian
officers.QF-5, Hagelbergerstraße 9, Kreuzberg, MU
Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 78 89 19 80, www.riehmersrestaurant.de. Open 18:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. €€-€€€.
TGBSW
FAST FOOD
BERGMANN CURRY
A friendly fast food joint with quality organic Currywurst, fries, meat
balls and more. The menus include
the upmarket ‘Rockefella’ dish
(served on porcelain, with a glass
of champagne), and there’s vegan
wurst and burgers, and sweet
potato chips too. If you dare, ask for a drop of searing hot
chilli sauce from the bottles on the ‘board of pain’.QBergmannstraße 88, tel. +49 50 56 51 54, www.bergmanncurry.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00.
CURRY 36
If you want to eat Currywurst the proper Berlin way, you’ll
order yours here boiled and naked. It looks a little pale in
comparison to the ones with their pink skins on, but you
might earn an iota of respect from the hard-boiled Fraus
Jolesch
Friesenstraße 22
tel. 69 50 73 33
www.sarods.de
INTERNATIONAL
HOPPETOSSE
An elegant white ship moored along Treptow’s Arena
complex serves a small range of excellent-value regional
and international meals to go with good sunset views
towards Oberbaumbrücke bridge, just upstream. For
daytime visitors there’s drinks, lunch and cakes too. Sit
up on deck to catch the sea breeze.QI-5, Eichenstraße
4, Treptow, MU Schlesisches Tor, tel. +49 30 53 32 03
40, www.arena-berlin.de. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €-€€.
NGBSW
SAGE RESTAURANT
If there’s such a thing as industrial charm, this is
where to find it; a fantastically designed restaurant
with starkly modern and white furnishings
contrasting with raw factory bricks, peeling paint and
chains. The food served is imaginative gastronomy;
in summer, Sage opens earlier to serve lunch on its
riverside terrace with deckchairs and a beach bar.
QH-4, Köpenicker Straße 18-20, Kreuzberg, MU
Schlesisches Tor, tel. +49 30 755 49 40 71, www.
sage-restaurant.de. Open from 18:00. Closed Mon.
€€€. TUEGBW
JOLESCH
Excellent Austrian cuisine and wines in a quirky corner of
Kreuzberg. Jolesh, a classy yet good-value restaurant, is
named after ‘Tante Jolesch’, a Viennese auntie who loved to
cook. It serves a great Wiener Schnitzel as well as dishes like
goulash and Kaiserschmarrn, chopped-up pancakes with
sugar and fruit jam. Breakfast is served until 17:00, so take
your time for brunch. Reservations recommended.QH-4,
Muskauer Straße 1, Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer Bahnhof,
tel. +49 30 612 35 81, www.jolesch.de. Open 11:00 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 24:00. €€. GB
Thai restaurant
who work the stand. Other proletarian Berlin specialities
you can take to the stand-up outdoor tables are the fried
burgers, Boulette.QF-5, Mehringdamm 36, Kreuzberg,
MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 251 73 68, www.
curry36.de. Open 09:00 - 05:00. €. S
Open daily 12:00-24:00
Sundays from 14:00
traditional healthy Thai cuisine
fresh and dainty
GORGONZOLA CLUB
An In Your Pocket favourite, serving the best and biggest
carpaccio we’ve had, and with lovely seating in the green
outdoor courtyard. The prices for the fresh pastas, pizzas
and other dishes are by all means reasonable, and there are
additional changing dinner options too. For after-dinner
cocktails simply go next door to the Würgeengel bar.QH4, Dresdener Straße 121, Kreuzberg, MU Kottbusser Tor,
tel. +49 30 615 64 73, www.gorgonzolaclub.de. Open
18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 02:00. €. B
Fantastic Berliner
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ITALIAN
CICCIOLINA
Dedicated to divas such as Jeff Koon’s porn star ex-wife La
Cicciolina and a host of other beauties (whose portraits
adorn the hallway by the toilets), this unpretentious
Italian restaurant has well-priced and very tasty food,
and a great terrace. For something out of the ordinary, try
the Strasburgo flammkuchen pizza with cream, mustard
and Tirol bacon.QH-4, Spreewaldplatz 5, Kreuzberg,
MU Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 61 65 71 60,
www.cicciolina-berlin.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €-€€.
TUNGBSW
Open daily
ily 122:0
2:00-24:00
Sunday 12:000-21:00
Bergmannstrraße 88
Berlin-Kreuzbberg
www.bergmann-currry.com
51
Kreuzberg
Kreuzberg
OSTERIA N°1
Next to Viktoriapark, this neighbourhood fixture has a fantastic
Biergarten bordered by lemon, cherry and olive trees. Classic
regional cuisine is prepared by cooks from different parts of
Italy, and everything is made fresh to order. Order a pasta
with Toscan hare ragout or salmon in orange sauce. Perhaps
the most child-friendly place in town, too. Choose from six
different lunch menus from €7.QF-5, Kreuzbergstraße 71,
Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 786 91 62,
www.osteria-uno.de. Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€. B
Vicolo Bergmann
VICOLO BERGMANN
Tasty Sicilian food is served at this rustic restaurant on the
sunny side of the street. Fresh quality meat, seafood and
vegetables are used to make the authentic pastas, pizzas
or the meat and fish dishes, and there’s home-made bread
too. The small uncluttered space with randomly exposed
bricks is decorated with newspaper cuttings. Don’t miss the
sinfully sweet Sicilian desserts.QF-5, Bergmannstraße 88,
Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 69 00 44 88,
info@vicolo-bergmann.de, www.vicolo-bergmann.de.
Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€.
BEER GARDENS
Osteria N°1
LUFTGARTEN
The large Biergarten around the former US officer’s casino
in Tempelhofer Freiheit park has Bavarian beer, tables
beneath the chestnut trees and deckchairs in the sun.
Drop by for the American barbeque, large hamburgers
and other international food.QTempelhofer Freiheit
Park, Columbiadamm entrance, tel. +49 152 22 55 91
75, www.luftgarten-berlin.de. Open from 12:00 until
around sunset. €. UENGBS
CAFÉS
CAFÉ AM ENGELBECKEN
Opposite the impressive, partially-restored St. Michael’s church
is a pond, sunk into a depressed parkway that was once a canal.
Hidden away at the reedy edge of the pond is a sunny terrace
café. View of the water and the rustling tall green reeds makes
this a peaceful respite from all things city while still being near
the heart of Kreuzberg (and can you believe this area was once
filled with rubble, and part of the Wall’s death strip?). Pizza and
snacks are served and they offer a choice of cocktails.QH-4,
Michaelkirchplatz, Mitte, MU Heinrich-Heine-Straße, tel.
+49 157 88 94 70 91, www.cafe-am-engelbecken.de. Open
10:00 - 24:00. €. TUNGBSW
KUCHENKAISER
A melting pot for Berliners, their friends and visitors since 1866,
the “cake emperor” is famous for its cakes and tarts, which were
sent exclusively by the Hindenburg to New York in the 1920s.
The restaurant also has a wide variety of German specialities
and international dishes. There’s a great choice of breakfasts,
a low-cost lunch, and a huge brunch on Sundays. A mustsee in Berlin.QG/H-4, Oranienplatz 11-13, Kreuzberg, MU
Moritzplatz, tel. +49 30 61 40 26 97, www.kuchenkaiser.de.
Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. €€. B
SALON SCHMÜCK
A crash-pad style neighbourhood café that looks like a
time-warp from the 1970s with its funky furniture. The food
is fresh however, and you can dig into breakfast, lunch and
fantastic home-made juice – just make your own selection
of fruit. Come evening and there are cocktails and DJs, and
even the occasional living room concert.QI-4, Skalitzer
Straße 80, Kreuzberg, MU Schlesisches Tor, tel. +49
30 69 00 47 75, www.salon-schmueck.de. Open 09:00 02:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 05:00. €. TNGBSW
WELTRESTAURANT MARKTHALLE
Within a historic market hall
building, the rustic Markthalle
restaurant is long and tall, with
wainscoting, simple wooden
furniture and a bar that locals belly
up to. It’s a restaurant that doesn’t
let its looks carry it: the kitchen
takes pride in its nouvelle takes
on German and Austrian standards. The menu changes
weekly, but count on Spätzle, Schweinebraten (braised
pork), and apple strudel. Breakfasts run from Russian to
American-style, and as late as 16:00. After dinner, check
if anything is going down in the Auster Club in the cellar.
QH-4, Pücklerstraße 34, Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer
Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 617 55 02, www.weltrestaurantmarkthalle.de. Open 10:00 - 24:00. €€. B
53
Kreuzberg
Nightlife
Kreuzberg
Sightseeing
BARS
MUSEUMS
GALANDER
A wonderfully classic bar, furnished with 1920s-style
fauteuils and woodwork. Apart from beer, Galander
has an excellent selection of wine and can mix some
quite unusual cocktails for you. Occasionally the piano is
played too. Recommended for a quality night out.QF-4,
Grossbeerenstraße 54, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm,
tel. +49 30 28 50 90 30, www.galander-berlin.de. Open
18:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon. E
DEUTSCHES TECHNIKMUSEUM
One of Berlin’s best museums is unmistakably recognisable
by the Douglas C-47 plane suspended above the main
building. The huge complex set in and around an old
freight station rail depot has planes, trains, cars, bikes,
computers, phones, radios and much more. Outside there
are windmills and a brewery. There’s a hands-on Spectrum
science centre for children too.QF-4, Trebbiner Straße
9, Kreuzberg, MU Gleisdreieck, tel. +49 30 90 25 40,
www.sdtb.de. Open 09:00 - 17:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon. Admission €6/3,5.
MILCHBAR
It is the foam of beer that lines the upper lip of patrons of
Milchbar, home to punks, students, and aging alternative
types still loyal to the sounds of punk, ska, thrash, and
hard rock. The crowd is not so anarchic as to not want to
cheer on their teams when football games are screened.
The murals and dark décor can heighten your wooziness if
you’ve had one round too many.QH-4, Manteuffelstraße
41, Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 611
70 06, www.milchbar-berlin.de. Open 17:00 - 04:00.
NBW
WÜRGEENGEL
Pronounced woor-ge-en-gel and named after Bunuel’s
film El Ángel Exterminador, this dark brown bar is a
great place for a drink and a snack. The tapas list has a
dozen tasty options, while the cocktail menu has over 50
reasons to delay your departure. To round it all off, there
are Cuban and other cigars to enjoy.QH-4, Dresdener
Straße 122, Kreuzberg, MU Kottbusser Tor, tel. +49 30
615 55 60, www.wuergeengel.de. Open from 19:00.
€€. B
CLUBS
SO36
Live bands perform nearly every night at this institution
that’s home to any alternative lifestyle, from gay Turks
and metal heads to hardcore punks and goth vegans.
On popular club nights, like the Ugly X Bad Taste Party or
Gayhane, show up before 01:00 or face a long wait with the
friendly door staff.QH-4, Oranienstraße 190, Kreuzberg,
MU Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 61 40 13 06, www.
so36.de. Check their website for opening times.
UENG
WILD AT HEART
Rock on. One of Berlin’s rare live-music venues brings in
hardcore and punk bands touring the planet. There’s an
occasional DJ night as well. Booths and seating in the front
rooms make conversation manageable. Bring earplugs
for the stage area.QH-5, Wiener Straße 20, Kreuzberg,
MU Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 610 74 701, www.
wildatheartberlin.de. Open 20:00 - 04:00. ENB
HAUS AM CHECKPOINT CHARLIE
A homespun Great Escape museum of false trunks, tools,
videos, even a submarine, and stills of tunnel-digging attest
to necessity and desire being the mother of invention.
Visit this museum for dramatic stories of separated lovers,
freedom-seeking families, and fed-up senior citizens in
the GDR who breached the Wall. The museum also has art
interpreting the concrete division of the city, and an exhibit
on human rights movements.QF-4, Friedrichstraße 4345, Kreuzberg, MU Kochstraße, tel. +49 30 251 20 75,
www.mauermuseum.de. Open 09:00 - 22:00. Admission
€12,50/9,50.
JÜDISCHES MUSEUM BERLIN
The famous zinc-plated fortress designed by Daniel
Libeskind contains a moving perspective on the many
ways in which German life and Jewish history are
intricately interwoven. The interior contains dark ‘voids’ for
contemplation, but the exhibits cover much more than
the Holocaust chapter of Jewish history in Germany.QF4, Lindenstraße 9-14, Kreuzberg, MU Hallesches Tor,
tel. +49 30 25 99 33 00, www.jmberlin.de. Open 10:00
- 20:00, Mon 10:00 - 22:00. Admission €5/2,50, special
exhibitions €4/2, combined ticket €7/3,50.
MARTIN-GROPIUS-BAU
Dusty pink brick, gilded mosaics, stucco work run riot - this
is the work of Great Uncle Gropius, not Walter ‘Bauhaus’
Gropius. Completed in 1881, the beauty once held an
arts and crafts museum. Today the Martin-Gropius-Bau
hosts excellent touring exhibitions. Until 10 August: David
Bowie.QF-4, Niederkirchnerstraße 7, Kreuzberg, MS/U
Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 48 60, www.gropiusbau.
de. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue.
TOPOGRAPHIE DES TERRORS
Beside a souvenir-ravaged stretch of Wall, the cellars
are all that remain of the palace housing the Reich
Security (SS) Office. The fascinating exhibition in the
trench and the adjacent pavilion and park uses models,
texts and photos to highlight the topography of the
Third Reich police, military and security groups that
were headquartered in this area, and discusses their
organisation and the terror they cast across Europe.
The most important lesson to take home is perhaps
that these organisation only managed to thrive thanks
to the continuous cooperation of many institutes
and citizens. Set aside 2-3 hours to do it justice.QF-4,
Niederkirchnerstraße 8, Kreuzberg, MU Kochstraße,
tel. +49 30 25 45 09 50, www.topographie.de. Open
10:00 - 20:00. Admission free.
PARKS & GARDENS
TEMPELHOFER FREIHEIT
Where else can you run for five minutes with your eyes
closed? Berlin’s most amazing space is this historic and
wide open airport just south of Kreuzberg, which closed
in 2008 and was opened as a park in 2010. Now the
runways and taxi lanes are used by bikers, inline skaters
and kiteboarders; the fields around them are used by
rare breeding skylarks (from April-July), picnickers,
barbecuers, artists, kite-flyers, gardeners and dogwalkers. There’s even a Biergarten at the northern end.
Note that turnstiles allow exit from the park after closing
time as well. Also easily accessed from U-Bahn stations
Tempelhof and Boddinstrasse.QF/G-6, Columbiadamm,
MS/U Tempelhof, www.tempelhoferfreiheit.de. Open
March 06:00-19:00, April & Sept 06:00-20:30, May &
Aug 06:00-21:30, June & July 06:00-22:30, Oct 07:0019:00, Dec, Jan 07:30-17:00, Feb & Nov 07:00-18:00.
Admission free.
VIKTORIAPARK
Before heading up the hill, crowned with Karl Friedrich
Schinkel’s memorial to the Napoleonic Wars, go to
the corner of Kreuzbergstraße and Großbeerenstraße
for an eyeful of the park’s waterfall, constructed in
the late 19th century. Kids stripped to their knickers
wade in between the shallow, tiered levels. 65 metres
above, people lean back against the graffiti-laden
monument to take in the panoramic view. Towards
the back of the park, past a playground and off the
Bacci field, is the Golgotha beer garden. Running
parallel to Kreuzbergstraße is a small petting zoo
where children and goats get to meet and bleat.QF-5,
Kreuzbergstraße, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm.
Shopping
MARKETS
MARHEINEKEHALLE
The old Markthalle XI from 1892 is now an upmarket and
slightly sterile venue for the organic market with about
50 stalls selling everything from bread to cheese and
fruit, much of it from the region.QF-5, Marheinekeplatz,
Kreuzberg, MU Gneisenaustraße, www.meinemarkthalle.de. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sun.
BERLIN IN BOOKS
The young, snap-happy American
student and artist Will McBride
(1931) arrived in West Berlin in
1955, and set about capturing the
post-war awakening of the city
in black and white photos. Until
the construction of the Berlin
Wall in 1961, the sky seemed the
limit for the city, and McBride crossed from West to East
observing the progress of the Wiederaufbau (rebuilding),
as well as the building of the Wall. Now, 120 of his photos
taken between 1956 and 1963 have been collected in
Berlin im Aufbruch (‘Berlin’s Renaissance’). What makes this
book so special is that rather than documenting the city
from a safe distance, McBride is ‘present’ in the photos,
as a participant in the depicted events, getting close to
workers constructing a road, women chipping mortar off
bricks from bombed buildings, playing children, rock ‘n
roll dancers and fellow students riding a horse cart. In one
photo McBride is literally present when he catches himself
in the reflection of a mirror in a café, while focussing his
Leica on an animated group of women. It’s remarkable
how timeless the themes and people are; the party in the
back yard, the people at the beach and the students on
the boat trip – they are us, this is now, 50 years ago.
‘Berlin im Aufbruch; Fotografien 1956-1963’
(Lehmstedt Verlag 2013, ISBN 9783942473675) by Will
McBride is for sale at Dussmann for €29.90, and can be
ordered at any other bookshop.
An exhibition dedicated to Will McBride’s Berlin years
opens in C/O Gallery on 30 October; see p. 39.
MARKTHALLE IX
Everything you need for a picnic in Görlitzer Park. A historical
market hall from 1891 has been revived with a weekly
market (Fri, Sat), selling organic fruit and vegetables, cheese,
bread, meat and smoked fish. There are snack stands with
picnic tables, a children’s corner and a restaurant that
serves a delicious organic lunch menu every day. The busy
Streetfood Thursday has hipsters showing up in droves, and
there’s breakfast on Sunday and occasional crafts and deli
market days too.QH-4, Eisenbahnstraße 42, Kreuzberg,
MU Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 577 09 46 61, www.
markthalle9.de. Open Fri, Sat 10:00-18:00. Admission free.
SOUVENIRS & GIFTS
HERRLICH
Set the ladies loose in the mall; men will find what they
really need at Herrlich, a quirky men’s gift shop stocking
body care products, clothing accessories, barbecue
gear and essential gadgets.QF-5, Bergmannstraße 2,
Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 784 53 95,
www.herrlich-online.de. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
55
City tours
City tours
B ERLINER U NTERWELTEN E.V.
stencil art, street artists like Thierry Noir and Mr.6, the
gay scene, and the squatter and anti-fascist movements.
Knowledgeable resident artists poke at Berlin’s dark,
fuzzy underbelly on a variety of walks; there are also
free short walks (daily at 11:00 and 13:00), twilight
tours, a street art workshop and an ‘anti-pubcrawl’.
QMS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 162 819 82 64, www.
alternativeberlin.com. Tickets €10-20.
Society for the Exploration and Documentation of Subterranean Architecture
Berlin from below
Cold War and WW II bunker tours
Different tours every day • see: www.berliner-unterwelten.de
Subway: Gesundbrunnen (U8), southern entrance-hall • Brunnenstraße 105
There’s a story on every corner in Berlin, though you’ll need
a guide to hear it. It’s a huge, fascinating city, but lacks a real
Old Town-type area. Attractions are fairly far-flung, so plan
your itinerary and get acquainted with the excellent public
transportation. If you’re here for a limited amount of time,
we highly recommend you join one of the walking or
cycling tours to get your bearings and see the main sights.
BUS, CAR & PLANE TOURS
BERLIN CITY TOUR
Open-top doubledecker buses circle the main sights in about
two hours; the green ones have live English commentary;
red ones have audioguides. Board at Kurfürstendamm 14,
the Town Hall or Brandenburger Tor and hop-on or hop-off
as you like. There’s also a narrated ‘Wall & Lifestyle’ tour taking
in the main Wall sights and some trendy districts.Qtel. +49
30 68 30 26 41, www.berlin-city-tour.de. Tickets €15/12/5.
BERLIN UNDERWORLDS
The Berlin Underworlds Association allows you to
experience Berlin´s history from an unusual perspective,
through its underground installations dating back to the
Cold War, World War II, or earlier. Though predominantly
in the spaces below Berlin´s Gesundbrunnen station,
tours are also offered in several other complexes that
are usually not accessible to the public. With prior
notification, tours can be arranged for groups of
minimum 20 people at other times.
The following tours are held in English; they also take
place in German and Spanish at other times, and various
tours are held in Dutch, French, Italian and Danish.
CITY CIRCLE BUSES
Several tour bus companies operate hop-on hop-off
double-decker bus City Circle tours lasting 2.5 hours.
Buses run every 10 minutes, with narration in a dozen
languages. Kurfürstendamm 220 and Alexanderplatz are
the two main starting points, but you can get on and off at
some 20 stops. Besides Berolina, the operators are Berliner
Bären Stadtrundfahrt (www.bbsberlin.de), BEX Sightseeing
(www.berlinerstadtrundfahrten.de) and Bus Verkehr
Berlin (www.bvb.net).Qtel. +49 30 88 56 80 30, www.
berolina-berlin.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Tickets €22/11.
Afternoon ticket (from 13:30) €16,50/11.
WALKING & CYCLING TOURS
ALTERNATIVE BERLIN TOURS
After the 4-hour Real Berlin tour (daily at 12:00, €12)
you’ll know all about Berlin’s subcultures, the graffiti and
Tour 1: Dark Worlds – A bunker from the Nazi era. MarNov Mon 11:00 and 13:00, Wed-Sun 11:00; Dec-Feb Mon
11:00 and 13:00, Thu-Sun 11:00.
Tour 2: From Flak Towers to Mountains of Debris.
Enter a devastated albeit fascinating underground world.
Apr 1 - Oct 31, Thu-Sun 16:00.
Tour 3: Subways, Bunkers, Cold War – a political history of Berlin from an unusual perspective. Mar-Nov Tues
11:00 and 13:00, Wed-Sun 13:00; Dec-Feb Thu-Sun 13:00.
Tour M – Breaching the Berlin Wall: Subterranean
escapes from East to West Berlin. Mar-Nov, Sun 10:30.
For further information see www.berliner-unterwelten.
de. Tickets €10/8, Tour M €13/10 (no reservation
required); the meeting point is at the southern entrance
of the Gesundbrunnen U-Bahn station at Brunnenstraße
105, tel. +49 30 49 91 05 17.
ANITA SIKORA’S BERLIN WALKS
The walking tours by guide and artist Anita Sikora offer a
wide choice of topics, ranging from David Bowie and Walter
Benjamin themed tours, walks around the Pankow district,
to the Wall’s course through the industrial ‘Fireland’ district.
Join a regular group walk or book a private tour.Qtel. +49
176 68 60 16 63, anitaeva75@gmail.com, www.anitasikora.com. Tours €9.
BERLIN LOCALS
Tailor-made private city tours on foot, by minibus or by
limo, lead by local German historians who can often relate
historical events to their family’s personal experience. Tour
themes range from The 1920s, Cold War and Third Reich
to street art, railways and architecture. The guides are also
licenced for Sachsenhausen concentration camp. Tours are
in English or German.Qtel. +49 177 238 00 02, info@
berlinlocals.com, www.berlinlocals.com. Tours €40 per
hour, €250 per day.
BREWER’S BERLIN
The 6-hour Best of Berlin (10:30) and the 3-hour Express
(13:00, tip only) tours are great introductions to the
city. Potsdam tours take place on Wed and Sat (09:20).
The meeting point for all tours is the Bandy Brooks ice
cream shop near Friedrichstraße station; no bookings
are required.QF-3, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49
177 388 15 37, www.brewersberlintours.com. Tickets
€15/12.
CITY SEGWAY TOURS
Hop on a self-balancing Segway scooter and - after
a short driving lesson - zip around Berlin on the fourhour general tours (10:00 and 15:00, €67), or the shorter
afternoon tour (15:00, €43). Drivers license required.QG-3,
Panoramastraße 1a, Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel.
+49 30 24 04 79 91, berlin@citysegwaytours.com, www.
citysegwaytours.com.
FAT TIRE BIKE TOURS
Grab a bike at the base of the TV Tower and spin
through town on the relaxed 4,5 hour daily city tour
(11:00, from May also 16:00), the Wall tour (Mon, Thu,
Sat at 10:30), the Third Reich tour (Wed, Fri, Sun at
10:30) and the Raw tour (counter culture; Tue, Fri, Sun
at 10:30); these tours cost €24/22 and no booking is
required. Call or email ahead for the Potsdam tour.QG3, Panoramastraße 1a (Fernsehturm), Mitte, MS/U
Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 24 04 79 91, www.
fattirebiketoursberlin.com.
INBERLIN TOURS
Specialised walking tours for small groups: along the Wall
in Mitte or Treptow, or through the Kreuzberg, Prenzlauer
Berg, or Friedrichshain districts. Tours take place at fixed
times and days, or made to suit your needs; reservations
required.Qtel. +49 174 157 48 36, info@inberlin.de,
www.inberlin.de. Tickets €10-16.
INSIDER TOURS
Insider’s enthusiastic guides go a long way to make you feel
like an insider on the daily 4-hour tours; starting from AMT
Coffee at Hackescher Markt (10:30 and 15:00, €12/10). Other
tours are the Wall, Third Reich, Sachsenhausen, Potsdam,
Jewish Berlin and a pub crawl.QG-3, MS Hackescher
Markt, tel. +49 30 692 31 49, www.insidertour.com.
ISHERWOOD’S NEIGHBOURHOOD TOUR
In the 1920s Berlin was a veritable ‘Sodom on the Spree’
with 85,000 lesbians, open prostitution and an outrageous
club and revue theatre scene. The young gay British writer
Christopher Isherwood wove his experiences in Goodbye
To Berlin (of Cabaret fame). This excellent one-hour tour
through Isherwood’s Berlin around Nollendorfplatz is
spiced up with quotes and references to notorious 1920s
party-goers like Anita Berber and Marlene Dietrich.QD4/5, MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 151 25 22 03 42,
brendan@10777tours.com, www.cabaret-berlin.com.
Tours Sat at 11:00, and on demand. Book ahead. Tickets
€12.
NEW BERLIN TOURS
Free 3,5-hour city centre tours, popular with young
visitors who are just as interested in each other as in the
sights along the route (daily 11:00 and 13:00 from the
Brandenburger Tor Starbucks). They additionally offer
various themed tours and pub crawls.QF-3, Pariser Platz,
Mitte, MS/U Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49 30 51 05 00 30,
www.newberlintours.com. Tickets free/€12.
ORIGINAL BERLIN WALKS
The daily 3,5-hour Discover Berlin tour starts at the
Weihenstephaner restaurant on Hackescher Markt at 10.30
and 14:00. Check online for themed tours like Third Reich,
Cold War, Queer Berlin, Jewish Berlin and Potsdam.Qtel. +49
30 301 91 94, www.berlinwalks.de. Tickets €12/10.
SLOW TRAVEL BERLIN TOURS
The Berlin blog dedicated to ‘slow travel’ offers quirky
cultural-historical tours. In small groups you explore Berlin’s
most fascinating districts. Join a literary stroll in West
Berlin, a walk on Kreuzberg’s wild west side, a trip along
the Wall, down lively Potsdamer Strasse, or march through
Kaiser Wilhelm’s Berlin.Qwww.slowtravelberlin.com/
tours. Tickets €15.
57
Potsdam
Directory
FILMPARK BABELSBERG
Over 3,000 films have been shot at the famous Babelsberg
UFA/DEFA studios, including Fritz Lang’s Metropolis (1927). The
themepark surrounding the studios is great for children and
adults. Though the topics may be unfamiliar to foreigners,
there’s enough action to keep you amused, including stunt,
animal and pirate shows, studio tours and ‘behind the scenes’
insights into special effects through the years. There’s an Englishlanguage audioguide too. From Babelsberg S-Bahn station take
bus N°601 or 690; alternatively take the RE train to Medienstadt
Babelsberg station and walk.QGroßbeerenstraße, Potsdam,
MS Babelsberg, tel. +49 331 721 27 50, www.filmpark.
de. Open 10:00-18:00. Sept closed Mon. Nov-Mar closed.
Admission €21/17, children €14.
Part of Berlin’s charm is its proud grittiness, but don’t chide
yourself for being bourgeois if it gets to you - it got on
the nerves of Frederick II the Great too. The ruler of Berlin
and all Prussia from 1740 to 1786 built his favorite abode
Sanssouci, outside Berlin in the town of Potsdam.
‘Without a worry’ was the French name of his palace, though
thanks to considerable care taken by its architect Georg
Wenzeslaus von Knobelsdorff, craftsmen, and artisans, it is
hailed as the Versailles of Germany. Sanssouci was intended
as a summer residence, and though Friedrich stretched out
the seasons he spent here, tourists don’t have the same
privilege: many buildings close between mid-October and
April. The best attractions are open through winter - Park
Sanssouci’s Schloss Sanssouci and Neues Palais; and the
Neuer Garten’s Marmorpalais and Schloss Cecilienhof.
Besides the palaces and parks, the compact town’s centre,
half faded and half restored, makes for a pleasant stroll. The
Kolonie Alexandrowka is in a park along Puschkinallee,
south of the rise to the Belevedere. Quaintly enough, the
log cabins here were built in 1826 for a 12-member Russian
choir who had helped the Prussians fight Napoleon. Most
of the boys got homesick and eventually left. The redbrick
Holländisches Viertel (Dutch quarter) is another failed
settlement, but a great place to get a meal and browse in
some shops. Friedrich Wilhelm I built the small district in
the 1730s to attract Dutch craftsmen.
Potsdam basics
Potsdam is a short ride on the S-Bahn from central Berlin.
More information: Postdam Tourist Information, Am Alten
Markt 5, tel. +49 331 275 58 20, www.potsdam.de.
POTSDAM SIGHTS
FILMMUSEUM POTSDAM
Featuring the history of the nearby Babelsberg film studios
and with changing exhibitions on the world of film,
possibly the best thing about this museum are the evening
screenings of modern and classic international films. Silent
films are accompanied live by an antique cinema organ.
The Film Café serves drinks and food.QMarstall am
Lustgarten/ Breite Straße 1a, MS Potsdam Hbf, tel. +49
331 27 18 12, www.filmmuseum-potsdam.de. Open
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €4,50/3,50.
SCHLOSS CECILIENHOF
Twentieth-century history was made here in August 1945
when Stalin, Truman and Attlee decided the future of postwar
Germany. This half-timber mansion between two lakes in the
Neuer Garten was finished in 1917. In the same park is the
Marmorpalais. From Potsdam Hauptbahnhof station take
tram N°92 or 96 to Reiterweg/Alleestraße, then bus N°603
to Schloß Cecilienhof.QIm Neuen Garten 11, Potsdam,
tel. +49 331 969 42 00, www.spsg.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon. Nov-Mar open until 17:00. Admission €6/5.
SCHLOSS SANSSOUCI
The 18th century rococo-style Schloss Sanssouci (‘without
worries’) has a gorgeous approach up a flight of vineyard
terraces. Frederick the Great loved his little ‘Prussian Arcadia’
and was buried on here at his own request. The original
palace rooms and guest apartments host works by Rubens,
Van Dyck and Caravaggio. The palace sits within the 290
hectares of Park Sanssouci, which holds a botanical garden, an
Orangerie, Roman baths, the Chinese House, the Neues Palais,
and Karl Friedrich Schinkel’s Schloss Charlottenhof, whose
interior is perhaps the best preserved example of Schinkel’s
work. Each sight has its own separate admission charge and
changing exhibits. The hilltop Belvedere auf dem Pfingstberg
is a romantic folly lookout tower completed in 1863. On busy
days arrive early to secure tour tickets, or join the tourism
office’s Sanssouci tour which includes the palace even when
day tickets are sold out. From Potsdam Hauptbahnhof station
take bus N°612, 614 or 695.QMaulbeerallee, Potsdam, tel.
+49 331 969 42 00, www.spsg.de. Open Apr-Oct 10:0018:00, Nov-Mar 10:00-17:00; park open 06:00-dusk.
Admission €12/8, park free or voluntary donation.
SPIELBANK POTSDAM
Together with many other imposing buildings in the area, the
building housing the Potsdam Spielbank Joker’s Garden casino
since 2002 was designed by Frederick the Great’s master builder
Georg Wenzeslaus von Knobelsdorff in the 1750s. Restored to
its former glory, the elegant building now is the venue for card
games, roulette and playing machines. Minimum age 18. Dress
code: smart, jacket required (rental available).QSchloßstraße
14, Potsdam, MS Potsdam Hbf, tel. +49 331 290 93 00,
www.spielbank-potsdam.de. Open 17:30 - 03:00. Access to
slot machines from 11:00. Admission €5.
ACCOUNTANTS
ERNST & YOUNG QFriedrichstraße 140, Mitte,
MS+U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 25 47 10, www.
ey.com.
KPMG QKlingelhöferstraße 18, Tiergarten, MU
Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 206 80, www.kpmg.de.
EMERGENCY NUMBERS
Emergencies, ambulance, fire tel. +49 30 112;
Emergency doctor service tel. +49 30 31 00 31;
Police tel. +49 30 110;
Non-urgent police matters tel. +49 30 46 64 46 64.
NÖRR STIEFENHOFER LUTZ QCharlottenstraße 57,
Mitte, MU Französiche Straße, tel. +49 30 20 94 20 00,
www.noerr.de.
IRELAND QF-3, Jägerstraße 51, Mitte, MU
Hausvogteiplatz, tel. +49 30 22 07 20, www.
embassyofireland.de.
PRICEWATERHOUSECOOPERS QLeise-MeitnerStraße 1, Charlottenburg, MU Mierendorffplatz, tel.
+49 30 263 60, www.pwc.com.
NEW ZEALAND QF-3, Friedrichstraße 60, Mitte, MU
Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 206 210, www.nzembassy.com.
BUSINESS CONNECTIONS
UNITED KINGDOM QF-3, Wilhelmstraße 70-71,
Mitte, MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 30 20 45 70,
www.britischebotschaft.de.
AMERICAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE
QCharlottenstraße 42, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße,
tel. +49 30 28 87 89 20, www.amcham.de.
HOSPITALS
DEUTSCHE INDUSTRIE-UND HANDELSKAMMER
(CHAMBER OF COMMERCE) QBreite Straße 29,
Mitte, MU Märkisches Museum, tel. +49 30 20 30 80,
www.dihk.de.
DENTISTS
BENJAMIN FRANKLIN CLINICAL CENTRE
QKlingsorstraße, Steglitz, MS/U Rathaus Steglitz, tel.
+49 30 84 45 30 15, www.medizin.fu-berlin.de.
CHARITÉ UNIVERSITÄTSKLINIKUM QF-3,
Schumannstraße 20-21, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor,
tel. +49 30 45 050, www.charite.de.
DR. SUSANNE MÜNCHBERG QFasanen Straße 72,
Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 883 63 85.
LANGUAGE SCHOOLS
DR. WOLF-ULRICH KLOTZ QBayreuther Straße 8,
Schöneberg, MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 213 10 10.
BERLITZ MITTE QF-3, Friedrichstraße 95, Mitte,
MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 204 21 24, www.
berlitz.de/de/berlin_mitte.
DOCTORS
DR. ALEXANDRA HEISER QKurfürstendamm 139,
Charlottenburg, MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 89 00
91 01.
DR. KARIN WROBEL QSchönhauser Allee 126 A,
Prenzlauer Berg, MS/U Schönhauser Allee, tel. +49 30
448 57 67.
DR. MICHAEL OPPEL QDerfflingerstraße 14,
Tiergarten, MU Kurfürstenstraße, tel. +49 30 44 72 81
28, www.integrative-medizin.com.
EMBASSIES
AUSTRALIA QG-3, Wallstraße 76-79, Mitte, MU
Märkisches Museum, tel. +49 30 880 08 80, www.
australian-embassy.de.
FRANCE QF-3, Pariser Platz 5, Mitte, MS/U
Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49 30 590 03 90 00, www.
botschaft-frankreich.de.
GLS QG-2, Kastanienallee 82, Prenzlauer Berg, MU
Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 78 00 89 16, www.glsgerman-courses.de.
MOVING TO BERLIN
The following companies can help with every aspect of
relocation, including moving, permits, accommodation,
language courses and getting to know the local
community.
ANKE FREUDE RELOCATION SERVICES
QMesselstraße 23, MU Podbielskiallee, tel. +49 30 39
79 38 16, info@anke-freude.de, www.first-relocating.de.
ARRIVA RELOCATION QLeibnizstraße 60, MS
Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 32 77 43 11, info@arrivarelocation.de, www.arriva-relocation.de.
FIRST RELOCATING QKissinger Str. 67, MS
Hohenzollerndamm, tel. +49 30 826 14 51, info@firstrelocating.de, www.first-relocating.de/.
59
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H-4
Wallstraße
F/G-4
Warschauer Platz
I-4
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I-3/4
Wassertorplatz
F-4
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G-2
Weinstraße
H-2/3
Werderstraße
F-3
Wiener Straße
H/I-4/5
Wilhelmstraße
F-3/4
Winterfeldtplatz
D-5
Winterfeldtstraße
D/E-5
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G/H-2
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E/F-5
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F-4
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F-2
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G-2
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F-5
TTeegeler
Motzstraße
C/D-4/5
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G-3
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H/I-4
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G-2
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F-3
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H-4
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F-4
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F-3
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D/E-5
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I-4
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B-4
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Oranienplatz
F-4
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F/G-4
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G/H-3
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B/C-3
Pappelallee
G/H-1
Pariser Platz
F-3
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H-5
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D/E-2
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Platz vor dem Neuen Tor
F-2
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E-4
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E-4/5
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H-1/2
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H-4
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I-5
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B-3
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G-3
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G-4/I-5
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E-4
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F-3
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F-3
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G-2
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C-4
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F-3
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B-3
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C-4
Schöneberger Straße
F-4
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E-4
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G-1/2
r.
F-2
D/E-4
H-2
C-4
F-4
H-2
G/H-2
B-4/5
H/I-4
H-5
H-5
G-3
F-5
A-5/C-4
D/E-4
H/I-2
H-4/5
H-4
F-4
F/G-4
H-4
F/G-4
F/G-2
F-4
F-2/3
D/E-4
H-4/5
D-4
H-4
F-3
F-3/4
D-4/6
E-4
F-3/4
H-5
F-5
F-4
C-4
H-4
G/H-2
F-3
F-4/5
F-3
G-3
H-2/3
B/C-4
F-3
nerweg
eubbne
Heu
Kl. Hamburger Straße
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F-3
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G-4
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ie Ch
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D-3
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sche
Str.
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Hab
U
Voltastr.
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G
Mauerpark
llin
Wo
ssi
Hu
rten
Ga str.
Hochstr.
Neuee Ho
S
Str.
tr.r.
er S
uss
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Me
Gleim
nstr.
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tr.
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Swin
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ch str
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ene
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str.
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str
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FritztzSchloßlo
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Dreyse
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ey
str.
st
Str.
str.
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ol
Humboldthain
H
bold
bol
Gus
Gleimstr.
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r.
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Bugenhagenstr.
r.
St
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Kru
tr.
lder
wald
Schönw
.A
str h m N
rter
r B
rge irkenstr.
be
rle
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orfer
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Reinickendorfer Str. U SSchuulzend
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.
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str.r.
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Wilsnacker Str.
cker Str.
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Bandelstr
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Birk
r
rge
be
rle
Pe
Geri
.
nn
FeNordstr
d
ler
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Str eideshaf
tr.
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Wicllef
efstr
t.
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Ste
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F
S Humboldthain
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we
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Birrk
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tr.
Birkenstr. U
W
Moab
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Qu
sttrr.
Stephaaanns
gzeu
Feldistermestrr.
str.
Str.
le
l r
Tege
.
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Unio
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Sie
2
S Westhafen
ow- we Sal StephanepphanphanQuitzst
de z- platz
r.
plaatz
l
U
Wedding
ufer
Nord
Uf e r
-U
ause
hennowr.er
RRathhe
St
Beusselstr.
Beusse
r.
r.
St
Friedrich-Kr
U Westhafen
Wees
esthafen
sthafen
h fen
Gerichtstr
hts .
U Amrumer Str.
t.
tr
ngels
Spre
.
houstr
c
Kiauts
tr.
rfs
To
r
e
arn
hm r.
Fe St tr.
s
ch
Bu
r
lte
VirchowKlinikum
Nordufe
r
tr.
rS
em riftstr.
T
Lux
Dt. Herzzentrum
Herzzzent
Herzze
zentr m
Sy
dufer
rrdu
ge
bur
St
r.
St
Charité
Charité
r.
St
er
urg
b
Lim
E
ter
r.
St
tr.
es
Se
Os
Leopoldplatz
U
n
Ge
er
tell
ages
Dohn
1
r
de
ten
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rum
Am
Goethepark
thep
hep
epar
par
St
Wed
edding
dddinng
ng
R
t
D
r.
üs
Lü
es
Index
Aapka
22
Adlon Kempinski
30
Admiralspalast
11
Adria
15
Aigner
21
Alexa Centre
30
Alliiertenmuseum
39
Alpenstueck
21
Alte Nationalgalerie
28
Alternative Berlin Tours
56
Altes Museum
28
Altes Zollhaus
49
Anita Sikora's Berlin Walks 57
Anna Blume
44
April
33
A-Trane
37
Aufsturz
23
August Fengler
44
Austria
50
Babylon Mitte
15
Barcomi's Deli
23
Bavarium
33
Bergmann Curry
50
Berlin, Berlin
41
Berlin City Tour
56
Berliner Dom
26
Berliner Residenz Konzerte 11
Berlinische Galerie
54
Berlin Locals
57
Berlin Plaza
41
Best Western President
41
Bikini Berlin
40
Black Box Cold War
27
Bleibtreu
41
Blue Man Group
11
Borchardt
21
Brandenburger Tor
25
Brewer's Berlin
57
Café am Engelbecken
53
Café am Neuen See
36
Café im Literaturhaus
36
Cafe Kalwil
37
Central Kino
15
Chan
49
Cicciolina
51
CineStar IMAX & Original
15
City Circle Buses
56
City Segway Tours
57
C/O Berlin
39
Cupcake Berlin
47
Curry 36
50
Daimler Contemporary Berlin
28
Dalí - The Exhibition at
Potsdamer Platz
28
Das Stue
40
Deutsche Oper Berlin
10, 14
Deutscher Dom
26
Deutsches Currywurst Museum
28
Deutsches Historisches
Museum
12, 28
Deutsches Technikmuseum 54
Diekmann
34
Die Schule
43
Digital Eatery
23
Dressler
35
Duke
35
Einhorn
35
El Dorado
36
Ellington Hotel
41
English Theatre Berlin
13
Eschschloraque Rümschrümp
23
Eventim
12
Facil
22
Fat Tire Bike Tours
57
Fernsehturm
30
Filmmuseum Potsdam
58
Filmpark Babelsberg
58
First Floor
34
Fischers Fritz
22
Fleischlust
43
Flohmarkt am Mauerpark 45
Francucci's
35
Französischer Dom
26
Friedrichstadt-Palast
11
Führerbunker
27
Galander
54
Geburtstagsklub
44
Gedächtniskirche
39
Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer
28
Gemäldegalerie
29
Gendarmenmarkt
25
Glory Duck
47
Gorgonzola Club
51
Grand Hotel Esplanade
41
Green Door
37
Grenander Morning Glory 37
Gugelhof
43
Hackesche Höfe
15
Halle Tanzbühne
14
Hamburger Bahnhof
29
Haus am Checkpoint Charlie
54
Hebbel am Ufer
14
Hefner
37
Hekticket
12
Herrlich
55
Hilton
30
Hinterm Horizont
12
Honigmond & Garden Hotels
31
Hoppetosse
51
Hotel de Rome
31
Hugos
34
InBerlin Tours
57
Insider Tours
57
InterContinental
40
Isherwood's Neighbourhood
Tour
57
Jolesch
50
Jolly
21
Joseph Roth Diele
21
Jüdisches Museum Berlin 54
Kaffee Burger
24
Kamala
21
Kaufbar
47
Kaufhaus des Westens
40
Kempinski Bristol
40
Keule
46
Kilkenny Irish Pub
19, 24
Kimchi Princess
49
Knese
33
Knutschfleck
24
Koka 36
12
Komische Oper
10
Konnopke's Imbiß
43
Konzerthaus Berlin
10
Kookaburra Comedy Club 14
Kuchenkaiser
53
Kulturbrauerei
45
Kunst und Nostalgiemarkt 30
La Forchetta
35
Locanda
35
Luftgarten
52
Macondo
47
Mall of Berlin
30
Mandala
31
Marheinekehalle
55
Markthalle IX
55
Marooush
36
Marriott
31
Martin-Gropius-Bau
54
Mauerpark
45
Mein Haus am See
24
Memorial to the Murdered
Jews of Europe
27
Microsoft Berlin
27
Milchbar
54
Monsieur Vuong
21
Museum für Asiatische Kunst
39
Museum für Film und
Fernsehen
29
Museum für Naturkunde
29
Mutter Hoppe
21
Neue Nationalgalerie
30
Neues Museum
28
Neue Synagoge
25
New Berlin Tours
57
Nikolaiviertel
25
Nola’s am Weinberg
22
Olympic Stadium
38
Original Berlin Walks
57
Osteria N°1
52
Ottenthal
34
Pagode
49
Palace
40
Panoramapunkt
30
Papagena
12
Paris-Moskau
22
Park Inn Berlin Alexanderplatz
31
Pergamon Museum
28
Pizzeria i Due Forni
44
Potsdamer Platz
26
Precise Myer's
42
Prenzlauer Berg Tourist
Information Centre
44
Quatsch Comedy Club
14
Radialsystem V
14
Reichstag
26
Reingold
24
Reinhard's
22
Renger-Patzsch
33
Restauration 1840
21
Restauration 1900
43
Riehmers
50
Ritz-Carlton
31
Sachiko Sushi
36
Sage Restaurant
51
Salon Schmück
53
San Diego Steakhouse
47
Sankt Oberholz
23
Santiago
44
Sarod's
50
Savoy Berlin
40
Schall und Rauch
44
Schaubühne
14
Schloss Cecilienhof
58
Schloss Charlottenburg
38
Schloss Sanssouci
58
Schneeweiß
47
Schnitzelei
34
Schöneberger Weltlaterne 33
Schwarzwaldstuben
21
Shakespeare & Sons
45
Slow Travel Berlin Tours
57
SO36
54
Soda Club
45
Sofitel Berlin Kurfürstendamm
40
Sophieneck
23
Spielbank Berlin
24
Spielbank Potsdam
58
Sputnik
15
Staatsoper im Schillertheater
11
Suksan
34
Sushi Imbiss am Wasserturm
44
Swissôtel Berlin
40
Sylter Hof
41
tausche Taschen
45
Tempelhofer Freiheit
55
The Harp
19, 38
Tiergarten
39
Tipi am Kanzleramt
12
Topographie des Terrors
54
Traube
22
Union Jack
38
Vicolo Bergmann
52
Viktoriapark
55
Waldorf Astoria
41
Week-End Club
24
Weinstein
44
Weltrestaurant Markthalle 53
Westin Grand
31
Wild at Heart
54
Wintergarten Variété
12
Wohnzimmer
44
Würgeengel
54
Zander
43
Zillemarkt
33
Zille-Stube
21
Zimmermeister Brunzel's
Mietshaus
45
Zwiebelfisch
37
Zwölf Apostel
36
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