TACTICAL RIFLE (AR

Transcription

TACTICAL RIFLE (AR

TACTICAL RIFLE (AR-15) BUILD
PULSE 02DA FIREARMS TRAINING, INC.
WWW.PULSEFIREARMSTRAINING.COM
WWW.WARRIORSANDCAPITALISTS.COM
TACTICAL RIFLE BUILD
With the increase in interest in tactical assault rifles, we wanted to do a
build of a typical AR-15 that we would suggest for an individual interested
in using a carbine style rifle for home or business defense. While a shotgun is probably the weapon of choice for close quarters home defense,
a semi-automatic rifle like the AR-15 has a lot to offer and in some cases
may actually be superior. We did this build using basic armorer tools and
shop equipment. Hope this is helpful.
“Silent Bob” and “The Strategist”
This is a typical AR-15 stock build that you can purchase for $800 - $1100. These builds usually consist of a flat-top upper receiver
with basic iron sights, a simple hand-guard/forend and a collapsible butt-stock. While this build is well-suited for self-protection, we
want to show you how fast and easy it is to make several improvements to convert this standard stock rifle in a much more versatile
tactical rifle build which is more practical for close-quarters defense in your home our business, and is also great out past 300 yards.
We have used materials in this build that are top of the line because we want the rifle you are using to be not only accurate but hardened and sturdy. While you could go bigger - let’s say a Surefire vertical foregrip weapon light - the setup is a solid tactical build that
will more than do more than nicely for practical home, office, and field use. If you have all the needed parts and tools, this build takes
approximately 2 hours from start to finish.
Uncle Mike’s quick detachable super swivels (1403-3) x-2
Surefire tactical weapons light (X300 or better) x-1
Viking Tactics padded sling (VTAC-MK2-BK-UG) x-1.
Aimpoint micro T-1 x-1, A.R.M.S
GG&G spring actuated front sight for tactical forearms (GGG-1393) x-1
JP hand guard floating stud adapter (JPHGS) x-2
front sight JP mil-std-1913 accessory rail (JPTR-FS) x-2
#40 low profile precision flip up sight x-1
#31 riser for Aimpoint micro x-1
JP/VTAC modular hand guard system (JPHG-M1 full length) x-1
#31 ThrowLever Mount for Aimpoint Micro (MK-II) x-1
YHM low profile gas block (YHM-9381A) x-1
Magpul B.A.D Lever
General parts list: JP/VTAC modular hand guard system (JPHG-M1 full length) x-1, YHM low profile gas block (YHM-9381A) x-1, JP
hand guard floating stud adapter (JPHGS) x-2, front sight JP mil-std-1913 accessory rail (JPTR-FS) x-2, Surefire tactical weapons light
(X300 or better) x-1, GG&G spring actuated front sight for tactical forearms (GGG-1393) x-1, Uncle Mike’s quick detachable super
swivels (1403-3) x-2, Aimpoint micro T-1 x-1, A.R.M.S. #31 riser for Aimpoint micro x-1, A.R.M.S. #31 ThrowLever Mount for Aimpoint
Micro (MK-II) x-1, A.R.M.S. #40 low profile precision flip up sight x-1, Viking Tactics padded sling (VTAC-MK2-BK-UG) x-1, Magpull
B.A.D Lever
Some helpful supplies and tools you will want to make the installation easier: 4 ½” bench vice, DPMS Upper receiver holding fixture (AR), 9/64 hexagonal Allen wrench, 5/64 roll-pin punch, T10 – T8 Torx wrenches, 10” adjustable crescent wrench, large flathead
screwdriver, DPMS armorer AR15 wrench, Loctite 242 &271, steel bristle brush (small), Brownells TCE degreaser, small brass hammer, and Loctite C-5A anti-sieze lubricant. Note: this parts list is specific to the stock rifle we are rebuilding. The stock rifle you own
may require additional tools to remove/replace certain parts. Please purchase the parts before you begin disassembling, because the
last thing you want to have is a dissembled rifle in your house when you need it to fight with.
Hand Guards
First step is to remove your hand guards. Consult your owners manual and remove your hand guards.
Charging Handle
Upper Receiver
Bolt Carrier
Lower Receiver
Consult your owners manual and disassemble your upper and lower receivers, then remove your bolt carrier and the charging handle.
Doing this will allow you to place the upper receiver on your DPMS upper receiver holding fixture, which should already be locked into
position in your 4 1/2” vice (see next photos).
Here you can see the upper receiver in the DPMS upper receiver holding fixture (AR), which is being held in place by the 4 1/2” vice.
At this juncture we are removing the flash hider with the 10” adjustable crescent wrench because we will need to slide the handguard
cap off of the barrel, and the flash hider will prevent this if it is left in place. See the next photo for what the upper receiver will look like
after this with the flash suppressor off.
Flash Hider
Here is the same upper with the flash hider removed. Again, we take this off so that we can remove the handguard cap from the barrel.
If you have the “birdcage” type flash suppressor that have the compression washers such as crush or peel washers, you will need to
consult the manufactures manual to ensure you get the torque correct upon re-assembly.
Next, we knock out gas tube roll pin on the front sight gas block with a 5/64 roll pin punch (be careful: the roll pin is small and if you
lose it, you will be stuck on your build until you purchase a replacement). The gas tube, front sight, and hand guard cap should easily
slide off the rifle - although depending on how much shooting you have done, the gas tube could take a bit of work to remove from the
gas block due to carbon build up. If you have a different type gas block/front sight housing you will need additional tools.
Next, use your DPMS armorer AR15 wrench to unscrew the barrel nut, and thereby remove the delta ring. This will leave you with
mostly stripped upper receiver. See the next page for the of the photo of what the upper should look like now.
If you have followed the steps previously mentioned, you will be left with something that looks like this mostly stripped upper. Now follow JP’s directions on how prep and install the free floating hand guard.
Stud Adapters
In this photo you can see that we have installed two of the JP handguard floating stud adapters mounted on the support side of the
hand guard, and a single Uncle Mike’s quick detachable super swivel attached to one of the studs. We do this because we are not
sure yet where the owner of the rifle will like the sling swivel when the rifle has been properly fitted to him, and it is more difficult to get
the floating stud adapters mounted once the hand guard is in place. Once the correct positioning is established, it is easy enough to
simply take out the per-positioned swivel and simply drop it out of the handguard once unscrewed.
JP Outer Receiver Nut
Inner Barrel Retainer Nut
Here you see the JP outer receiver nut and the steel inner barrel retainer nut mounted to the stripped upper receiver. Ensure you follow the JP instructions exactly, and don’t stress about the Loctite setting too soon, you do have a little time to play with the alignment
for the gas tube. You may find yourself having to tighten/loosen a couple of times, and that’s okay, just make sure everything is aligned
and the gas tube fits properly once the parts are securely in place.
YHM Low Profile Gas Block
At this point we slid the new YHM low profile gas block (YHM-9381A), over the barrel, pre-positioning it and lightly snugged down the
two set screws. This way, once I inserted the gas tube into the upper receiver I let the gas block hold the tube in place, and I was more
easily able to tap the roll pin back in place. Again, this is a simple process, just make sure that the gas tube is reinserted into the upper
receiver and the new gas block in the same manner in which it was inserted previously in the old gas block and upper receiver (before
you disassembled).
Once the gas tube has been pinned in place, go ahead and tighten down the set screws firmly. Use Loctite.
Attach the JP handguard with the small pre-tapped accessory rail holes facing upwards (the larger holes go to the bottom so that you
can attach more beefy components like Surefire vertical foregrip weapon lights on the rails you can mount down there). Once you have
the JP handguard in place, you can reattach the flash hider.
6 Set Screws
Here you see the JP handguard installed with the six set screws tightened down.
two front sight JP mil-std-1913 accessory rails (JPTR-FS)
At this stage we put our two front sight JP mil-std-1913 accessory rails (JPTR-FS) at the top front of our new handguard.
GG&G spring actuated front sight
Surefire x300
At this point we attached our Surefire x300 to the foremost mount, and our GG&G spring actuated front sight to the mount behind
the tactical light. In the photos you will see that we attached the front sight to the rail mount backwards. This is done because we like
to use the thumb over the barrel method to shoot, and having the configuration like this with the front sight folding back towards the
shooter allows for easy support hand actuation of the front sight. Yes, we lose about a half an inch of sight radius, but If we flipped the
sight around, the folded front sight would cause our thumbs to crowed our field of view in the optics when we shoot with the thumb
over the barrel method (because your thumb then sits on top of the folded front sight).
A.R.M.S. #40 low profile precision flip up rear sight
Once the front sight and Surefire tactical light were mounted, we replaced the less rugged polymer rear sight with the hardened and
versatile A.R.M.S. #40 low profile precision flip up rear sight.
A.R.M.S. #31 riser
Now take your Aimpoint micro T-1, and take out the four Torx screws holding the baseplate in place, and replace the factory baseplate
with the A.R.M.S. #31 riser, which will use the Torx screws you just removed from the old baseplate to attach the new A.R.M.S. riser to
your Aimpoint micro T-1.
A.R.M.S. #31 Throw Lever Mount (MK-II)
adjustment knob
Next, using a large flat head screw driver, attach the A.R.M.S. #31 riser to the A.R.M.S. #31 Throw Lever Mount (MK-II). In this photo
you can see that the throw lever and the adjustment knob on the Aimpoint are on opposite sides, this is what you want.
Here you can see the mostly completed build. It’s not only sexy, it’s practical and very utilitarian.
Viking Tactics padded sling (VTAC-MK2-BK-UG)
All that is left to do is reassemble your rifle, attach your Viking Tactics padded sling (VTAC-MK2-BK-UG), and then build a beefier
replacement “rattlesnake lanyard” for Viking Tactical sling’s original quick adjustment buckle “QAB” lanyard. I love the Viking Tactical
sling. The only down side for me is the rather anemic QAB adjustment lanyard which is a bit difficult to grab because of its size.
P.O. Box 201 Island Lake IL, 60042
WWW.PULSEFIREARMSTRAINING.COM -- WWW.WARRIORSANDCAPITALISTS.COM

TACTICAL RIFLE (AR

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