GS VINTAGE RIDE: PURE VINTAGE MOTORCYCLING
Transcription
GS VINTAGE RIDE: PURE VINTAGE MOTORCYCLING
Lifestyle L WITH GS VINTAGE RIDE, THE FAMOUS CÔTE D’AZUR SOMETIMES REVEALS ITSELF IN COMPLETELY DIFFERENT LIGHTS. AN INDIAN SUMMER IN THE SOUTHERN ALPS. L AVEC GS VINTAGE RIDE, LA CÉLÈBRE CÔTE D’AZUR SE DÉVOILE PARFOIS SOUS DES ASPECTS INÉDITS. L’ÉTÉ INDIEN DANS LE SUD DES ALPES. GS Vintage Ride: Pure vintage motorcycling BETWEEN FRANCE AND ITALY, PURE VINTAGE MOTORCYCLING GEARED FOR THE EPICUREAN, FOR THE CURIOUS AND FOR LOVERS OF MECHANICAL ANTIQUES, WITH SUBLIME LANDSCAPES AND GREAT FOOD. T he story begins with an internet contact, followed by a pleasant conversation just to tie up the final details. I am going to go, with a certain apprehension, on an old-style motorcycle ride. We are going, as I won’t be alone, to travel between France and Italy, astride BMW R80G/Ss, those famous machines that used to win the renowned Paris-Dakar Rally at the beginning of the 80s. Rest assured, it is not a question of turning this ride into a sort of race, but rather of enjoying these fabulous motorbikes in extremely beautiful countryside and on roads that are hardly frequented by the average tourist. But before telling you any more about our expedition, I need to give you a little presentation explaining what GS Vintage Ride offers its clients. First of all, it is a long friendship between two enthusiasts, Fred and Raph, who have been criss-crossing the roads of the Southern Alps for more than 15 years on their old 800 cm3s. Although their region no longer holds any secrets for them, they still marvel at it as if on their first day and speak about it with so 92 HORS LIGNE – Summer 2015 much enthusiasm and love that you are left with only one idea when listening to them—to jump on these more that 30-year-old motorbikes and follow them blindly through their countryside. The spirit of GS Vintage Ride is, and I say this deliberately, to savour each moment. The idea, the concept cannot be summarised as a “simple” motorcycle ride. It is described as a sensory journey that will stimulate all your senses. First of all, there is this new sensation, and I speak from my experience, of being in command of a motorcycle without any electricals—no ABS, anti-locking break system, automatically adjusting shock absorbers. In short, motorbikes that require a minimum of concentration and respect—they are rather like old ladies… Next, there is the discovery of riding along very narrow and tortuous roads, often in a very poor state of repair. That is when you understand the practicality and performance of these R80G/Ss. They can go anywhere without the slightest effort, so that it is tempting to ask yourself if today’s motorbikes are just a clever marketing ploy? Then, there is the countryside, where gastronomy is taken 93 Lifestyle L 1_ THE VILLAGE OF VINADIO, IN ITALY. 2_ SUBLIME VIEW OF THE ITALIAN ALPS. 3_ SWIMMING POOL ON THE ROOF OF A PALACE IN CANNES, THE FIVE SEAS. 4_ GOURMET STOPOVER IN THE COUNTRYSIDE BEHIND CANNES. 5_ THE MANY FACETS OF PROVENCE. L 1_ LE VILLAGE DE VINADIO, EN ITALIE. 2_ SUBLIME VUE SUR LES ALPES ITALIENNES. 3_ PISCINE SUR LE TOIT D’UN PALACE CANNOIS, LE FIVE SEAS. 4_ ESCALE GOURMANDE DANS L’ARRIÈRE-PAYS CANNOIS. 5_ LA PROVENCE SOUS SES MULTIPLES FACETTES. 4 2 very seriously. Indeed, Frédéric Ruiz, the initiator of GS Vintage Ride, is also a genuine epicurean, who has worked for many years among winegrowers in a universe where taste is king. On the first day of the adventure, it was he who was at the Nice Côte d’Azur airport to welcome the little group of journalists, who were coming to share in the experience of these four days of emotion. By way of immersing us right from our arrival, the transfer to Cannes took place in a VW Combi from the 70s. After a night at the Grand Hôtel with a dinner in its famous restaurant, we got down to the nub of the matter. The following morning, the motorbikes awaited us in the hotel’s outside carpark, while our luggage was loaded into a service vehicle. During breakfast, Fred and Raph gave us a short briefing on this first day of our journey. Not more than 170 kilometres, but already the promise of grandiose 1 5 3 94 HORS LIGNE – Summer 2015 scenery and wonderful sensations riding our 80GSs. Of course, even though we were all used to riding motorbikes, Fred and Raph gave us some basic tips that they considered helpful for us. They would enable us to savour every moment, be relaxed and carefree and enjoy everything to the maximum. Our little convoy comprised five motorcycles, including those of our two guides. An almost ideal number, so that we didn’t look like a pack and could expect a friendly reception, whenever we rode through a remote village. During the journey, there were moments of laughter and smiles, with photographs and appropriate breaks for a meal or simply to drink a cup of coffee and share our first impressions. The first night was spent in a mountain guest house, situated at an altitude of over 1,700 metres, the GS VINTAGE RIDE IS A SENSORY JOURNEY THAT WILL STIMULATE ALL YOUR SENSES. Ferme des Louiqs. A place I enjoyed for its simplicity and its authenticity, as well as for its generosity and the kindness of its owners. Then a surprise! Before dinner, a winegrower, Thomas Merle from the Bouisse-Matteri Domain of Hyères in the Var, came at the express invitation of GS Vintage Ride to organise a wine tasting. This was one of the incredible moments, when the sensory impact of the journey was relished with even greater intensity. 95 Lifestyle L 1_ THE FRENCH MEDIEVAL VILLAGE OF ENTREVAUX. 2_ POETRY OF THE ROAD. 3_ A BMW R80G/S IN ACTION. 1 L 1_ LE VILLAGE MÉDIÉVAL FRANÇAIS D’ENTREVAUX. 2_ POÉSIE ROUTIÈRE. 3_ UNE BMW R80G/S EN ACTION. The dinner was “Pantagruelian”, delicious and warming, and it is difficult to put into words the feeling of wellbeing and sharing that we all experienced. The night was good but short. At 7 o’clock, Fred was already there with Jérémi, the mechanic, inspecting the motorcycles. A quick polish and check to make sure all was in order for this great day, with more than 350 kilometres on the agenda. It is impossible to give a full account, as there was so much to wonder at. We went from surprise to surprise, sometimes quite unbelievable, like that gourmet break at the summit of an Italian pass, where the GS Vintage Ride organisers awaited us with finely sliced fruits, little fluted Bordeaux pastries, vanilla creams, all home-made by Fred and Raph’s wives and served with tea or coffee. And then the brunch at a master cheesemaker’s, which enabled us to enjoy a fantastic tasting of the local cheeses. You could easily forget that the journey’s “motor” is, no pun intended, the motorcycle. However, for Fred and Raph, it is the ideal way to live this experience, the magnificent pretext that makes the trip perfect. A trip that was to wind up in a marvellous winegrowing domain, the Commanderie de Peyrassol, where it was all about gastronomy, art and, of course, wine. In four days, we had crossed a dozen passes at an altitude of over 2,000 metres and, astride our extremely endearing motorcycles, driven over 1,000 kilometres—an experience that would have been impossible without Fred and his formidable team of assistants. n 2 3 MAXENCE GRÉGOIRE INFORMATION www.gsvintageride.com infos@gsvintageride.com The BMW R80GSs of GS Vintage Ride are all in excellent condition and rigorously maintained by a professional mechanic, employed by the company. The oldest is a 1981 vintage model, and the youngest is from 1993. 96 HORS LIGNE – Summer 2015 RANDONNÉE À MOTO PUR VINTAGE L’ histoire débute par un contact électronique, suivi par une conversation histoire de broder les derniers points de détail. Je vais donc participer, non sans appréhension, à une randonnée à moto ancienne. Nous allons, car je ne serai pas seul, voyager entre la France et l’Italie en chevauchant des BMW R80G/S, ces fameuses machines qui avaient remporté la célèbre épreuve du Paris-Dakar au début des années 80. Il n’est cependant pas question de faire du séjour une espèce de course de vitesse, mais de profiter de ces fabuleuses motos dans des décors d’une grande beauté et sur des routes peu fréquentées par le touriste lambda. GS Vintage Ride a été créé par deux amis, Fred et Raph, qui sillonnent depuis plus de quinze ans les routes des Alpes du Sud au guidon de leurs vieilles 800 cm3. Leur concept ne se résume pas à une «simple» balade à moto, mais propose un voyage sensoriel où tous les sens sont allumés. Il y a d’abord cette sensation de s’installer aux commandes d’une moto sans la moindre électronique: pas d’ABS, d’antipatinage, de réglage automatique des amortisseurs. Bref, des motos qui réclament un minimum de concentration et de respect: ce sont de vieilles dames… Ensuite, il y a la découverte, rouler sur des routes particulièrement étroites et torturées, et souvent en très mauvais état. C’est là que l’on comprend l’utilité et l’efficacité de ces R80G/S. Elles passent partout sans le moindre effort; on en vient presque à se demander si nos machines modernes ne sont pas qu’un savant discours marketing! Et puis, il y a le terroir. La gastronomie est ici prise très au sérieux. Au premier jour de l’aventure, Fred accueille à l’aéroport de Nice Côte d’Azur la petite troupe de journalistes venue vivre ces quatre jours d’émotions. Le transfert jusqu’à Cannes se fait dans un Combi VW des années 70, manière L MAGNIFICENT PASTORAL SCENE AT AN ALTITUDE OF OVER 2,000 METRES. L MAGNIFIQUE SCÈNE PASTORALE À PLUS DE 2000 M D’ALTITUDE. de nous mettre dans le bain dès notre arrivée. Après une nuit au Grand Hôtel et un dîner au restaurant étoilé, nous voilà dans le vif du sujet. Le lendemain matin, les motos attendent dans le parking extérieur pendant que les bagages sont chargés dans un véhicule d’assistance. Petit briefing sur cette première journée de roulage. Pas plus de 170 km, mais la promesse déjà de paysages grandioses et de belles sensations au guidon de nos R80G/S. Notre petit convoi est constitué de cinq motos, comprenant également celles de nos deux accompagnateurs. La journée sera ponctuée de rires, de sourires, de photos et de pauses judicieuses pour se restaurer ou simplement boire un bon café en partageant nos impressions. La première nuit se passe dans une maison d’hôtes de montagne située à plus de 1700 m d’altitude: la Ferme des Louiqs. Avant le dîner, un vigneron, Thomas Merle, du Domaine BouisseMatteri situé à Hyères dans le Var, est venu spécialement organiser une dégustation. Un moment incroyable où le voyage sensoriel prend encore plus de sens. Dès 7 h le lendemain, Fred était déjà là avec Jérémi, le mécanicien, autour des motos. Rapide nettoyage et petite vérification pour cette grande journée qui comprend plus de 350 km. Nous avons été de surprise en surprise avec cette pause gourmande au sommet d’un col italien ou encore ce brunch chez un maître affineur qui fut l’occasion de faire une fantastique dégustation de fromages locaux. Le séjour s’est terminé dans un superbe domaine viticole: la Commanderie de Peyrassol. En quatre jours, nous avons franchi une dizaine de cols à plus de 2000 m, réalisé au guidon de nos motos, terriblement attachantes, près de 1000 km. Une expérience qu’il aurait été impossible de vivre sans Fred et ses formidables complices. n 97