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LE GUANAHANI
ST. BARTH, FRENCH WEST INDIES
by Robert Adams
y first introduction to St.
Barth was a photo of Rudolf
Nureyev standing on the
deck of his beautiful home
built on a rocky, beachfront
cliff overlooking the Caribbean Sea. Seeing
the world-renowned dancer looking tan and
relaxed, many miles from the clamoring
crowds of adoring fans, I wondered why he
had chosen this island as his natural sanctuary. It wasn't until recently that I had a chance
to visit St. Barth, and to experience personally, just what attracted Nureyev and so many
celebrities since him to make this island their
home away from home.
To get to St. Barth from New York City, I
booked a flight to San Juan with a two-hour
layover before boarding Tradewind Aviation
(www.tradewindaviation.com) for the onehour hop to St. Barth. This is a great choice
as there is no immigration or customs to deal
with on San Juan for citizens of the USA
Other options include connecting through
Antigua, Guadaloupe, or St. Maarten via
Winair, St. Barth Commuter, and Tradewind
Aviation. There are also several ferry services
operating between St. Barth and St. Maarten,
but some people refer to these as the "vomit
comet," so you may prefer to fly.
The small, efficient Gustavia Airport in St.
Barth is a pleasure and a wonder. The runway
is short and narrow and a 19-seat plane is the
largest that can land here. Additionally, all
pilots flying to the island must be specially
trained. Once inside the airport, a quick flash
of your passport and you're on your way.
Outside the terminal, a handsome, smiling driver from Le Guanahani put our bags in
the hotel van and whisked .~s away for the
ten-minute drive to the resort.
M
erfectly situated on a private 18-acre
peninsula between Marigot Bay and
Grand Cul-de-Sac, Le Guanahani
(www.leguanahani.com) is an ideal getaway
for both families looking for quality time
together and couples wanting to spend a
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PASSPORT I
MAY 2015
romantic sojourn in a sensual, tropical locale.
Upon entering the open-air lobby, we
were greeted with a glass of Champagne
by Le Guanahani's managing director,
Martein van Wagenberg, and his team of
knowledgeable and passionate people
who gave us a quick overview of the resort
and all it's luxurious amenities. Their love
of Le Guanahan i and St. Barth set the tone
for a wonderful holiday.
Having just completed a four-year and $40
million renovation, Le Guanahani is the island's
premier private retreat, offering guests an elegant, casual, relaxed sanctuary in the
Caribbean. The accommodations here, which
include 30 rooms, 27 suites, and ten unique
signature suites, are decorated in a West Indies
style that blends seamlessly with the surrounding tropical landscape of hibiscus and coconut
trees. All rooms and suites offer private terraces, and many feature private pools.
"Today's travelers seek a refreshing experience led by simple pleasures, conspicuous
leisure, dedication to sustainability, and an
authentic, localized experience," said van
Wagenberg. "The evolution of Le Guanahani
responds to this need for experiential travel.
We want our guests to be transported into
Le Guanahani's colorful , lush, invigorating,
and serene setting, from the moment their
eyes meet the website to the dinner on the
beach with their feet in the sand ."
E
ach element, from the guest cottages
and dining areas to the room keys
and letterhead are designed to make
one feel at home while embodying the property's art de vivre ambiance. The reimagined
lobby and "explorer style" guest cottages
feature an exclusive Le Guanahani customfurniture collection designed by Luis Pons
(www.luispons.com) and inspired by the
luggage chests used by explorers on their
journeys through the colonies. The spirit of
the redesign , says Pons, "reflects St. Barth
and the experience of Le Guanahani as a
lived-in story of simple pleasures, maps of
life, and memories of happy times and
magical days that drift serenely from one to
the next."
Our accommodations at Le Guanahani are
heaven sent, and what else would you expect
from the Serenity Suite? The two-bedroom
beach cottage is perfectly situated on the hill-
.hoteltherap_y_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ __
side overlooking Grand Cul-de-Sac. The
moment we entered the front door and saw
the breathtaking views of the ocean we wanted to move in permanently! The open-plan
layout of the great room features a large living
room, dining area, and full kitchen. Floor-toceiling sliding glass doors frame the stunning
vista outside and the expansive terrace, sundeck, and private pool.
The master bedroom has a four-poster
king bed, a large dressing area, and bathroom with shower and relaxing Balneo tub.
On the other side of the suite, off the living
room , the second bedroom has high ceilings, a bathroom with shower/ hammam,
and a view of the ocean that makes it hard
1
to get out of bed in the morning.
But don't sleep too late. There is a lot to
do and enjoy at Le Guanahani. The resort
has two white-sand beaches, two tennis
courts (artificial clay and grass), and a fitness
center with treadmills, stationary bikes, free
weights, and more. Classes here include
Pilates, yoga, Zumba, and aqua fitness. A
personal coach is available most mornings
for some one-on-one training .
Water sports enthusiasts also have a
plethora of options, including stand-up paddle
boards, pedal boating, wind surfing, kayaks,
snorkeling, jet boards, and Hobie Cats.
If on the other hand, you want to relax in
the sun, enjoy the beautiful natural surroundings, savor exceptional food and wine, and
delight in some spa pampering, you have
come to the right place.
We began each day beachcombing for
shells and swimming· in the ocean before
heading to Indigo, the hotel's main restaurant that overlooks the pool and the beach.
The full American breakfast of fresh fruits,
homemade breads and pastries, as well as
20 PASSPORT I MAY 2015
eggs, omelets, and other great options is
served alfresco and provides a great opportunity to meet your fellow guests.
As this was our first trip to St. Barth, we
asked the hotel to arrange for a tour of the
island. A car and driver picked us up at Le
Guanahani and gave us a personal tour of the
beaches, hilltop lookouts, and some of the
amazing houses that dot the landscape. Our
driver,
Laurent
(www.taxi36stbarts.
com/en), has lived on St. Barth for many
years and seeing the island through his eyes
was such a pleasure. He introduced us to
many hidden gems such as Shell Beach,
where I could have spent hours collecting sea
glass; Saline Beach, consistently voted one of
the best in the world (with nude and gay sections); Steve Martin's extensive villa; and le
piece de resistance, Rudulf Nureyev's house!
S
t. Barth is well known as a destination where you can get away from it
all and never leave your resort or villa,
or you can eat, drink, and be merry in some
incredible places.
Providing the best of both worlds is
Bartolomeo, Le Guanahani 's culinary gem
and a great place to socialize with friends or
new acquaintances. Begin your evening at
Bar 'to Lounge where the chef du bar will be
happy to make your favorite drink or surprise you with one of his special creations.
Located in the heart of the hotel's beautiful tropical gardens, in the evening Bartolomeo creates an elegant and romantic
candle-lit setting where guests enjoy finely
prepared dishes infused with Caribbean
spices and Mediterranean flavors.
For starters, make sure to try the lobster
ceviche with Peruvian marinade, Kaffir lime,
fennel, avocado, and popped quinoa. Fol-
low this with their amazing pan-fried sole fillet served with green asparagus and apricot
white-butter sauce. The sommelier will recommend some great wines by the glass or
bottle to accompany your meal, but make
sure to leave room for dessert. My favorit~?
The chocolate souffle with pan-fried orange
slices and yuzu ice cream.
For those nights when you want to let your
hair down (or dance on tables), Le Guanahani
will make a reservation for you at one of the
local hotspots. They will also arrange for a car
and driver, which is essential if you are unfamiliar with the island's winding roads, or if you
prefer to drink rather than drive.
One of our most memorable dining experiences on St. Barth was at Bonito
(www.ilovebonito.com) in Gustavia. A friend
of ours in New York recommended this place,
and we couldn't have been happier. The
moment we walked in we felt at home. A
large, comfortable lounge area and bar lead
the way to a circular dining terrace with great
views of the harbor and the amazing yachts
that frequent St. Barth. The atmosphere is just
the right blend of casual and chic, with the DJ
choosing a great mix of Caribbean, Latin, pop,
and lounge music throughout the night.
We started with cosmos and vodka martinis at the bar, then went to our table for an
exceptional dinner. They pride themselves on
serving some of the best ceviche on the
island, and you won't be disappointed. The
menu also features great fish and meat
entrees with an emphasis on expertly prepared and seasoned dished. Not to be missed
are the braised beef cheek in a red wine sauce
with cipollini onions and a decadent mac and
cheese; or the grilled tuna tataki with soba
pasta, piquillos, ginger, cilantro, shiitake, and
bok choy. For dessert, get to know some of
------------------~~ohilibe~p~
the friendly staff and ask them what they are
doing after work. There may not be any gay
bars on the island, but Bonito is a wonderful
place where you will feel right at home.
in 1950's Grease costumes, and customers
danced on the tables (what's is this about
dancing on tables in St. Barth?). It was an
unexpectedly joyful afternoon.
en it comes to entertainment venes, two of the most talked about
on St. Barth are Nikki Beach
(www.nikkibeach.com) and Le Ti St. Barth
(www.letistbarth.com). At Le Ti, you' ll discover a popular restaurant and nightclub
seductively swathed in red velvet that attracts
party people from across the island and
around the world. Well known for it's themed
nights, full -moon parties, burlesque, and
cabaret, people come here to have a good
time. It may get loud and crazy, but after a
few cocktails you may find yourself dancing
on top of a table with total strangers.
If you happen to like having a good time,
and you don't mind the people around you
getting a little wild, then head for Sunday
brunch at Nikki Beach. The food is good, the
music is eclectic and fun, and the beach is
right there in case you want to take a quick
dip before or after brunch. With magnums of
Champagne flowing all around us, an
impromptu fashion show, the staff dressed
ith an abundance of sunshine and
clear blue skies, the next day was
all about exploring the property
and enjoying ourselves at Le Guanahani.
The resort is committed to the conservation
of the land and sea; and the onsite nature
preserve reveals the environmental consciousness of Le Guanahani. Situated
between two protected bay sides, the hotel
lends itself to an abundance of wildlife.
Guided tours and self-guided nature trails
bring the island alive for guests, who can
enjoy the beauty of sea turtles in their natural habitats. Several new offerings launched
this year, including bi-annual interactive
wellness retreats guided by leading experts
from the US and France. As part of Managing Director van Wagenberg 's and the
island 's affirmation in sustainability, educational activities will also be introduced for
children, families, and multi-generational
groups to benefit wildlife in the bay.
After spending the afternoon hiking around
W
W
the property and snorkeling in the bay, I head- .
ed for the Spa by Clarins for some rejuvenating bodywork. Hidden among the lush vegetation, the spa provides a serene setting to
indulge in some luxurious spa treatments.
Throughout the spa, water, teak, mahogany,
and lava stone create a healing and relaxing
ambiance. Here you'll find an adults-only
swimming pool, steam room, tea pavilion, private outdoor showers, a spa boutique, and
the salon by Frederic Fekkai.
After a long, warm shower I met my massage therapist and was escorted to a large,
peaceful treatment room. I choose the Melting Honey Deep Touch Massage, which
incorporates deep pressure to relieve tension, eliminate any stiffness, and release
negative energy. With the caring touch of an
expert, my body was massaged using the
ClarinsPRO Honey Massage Gel.
As my muscles relaxed and my mind drifted off into a state of bliss, I thought about"my
time spent on St. Barth, the wonderful people
we met, and the great time we had.
The next time we visit Le Guanahani, I
know it will feel like were coming back
home-and that is what a world-class resort
is all about. •
Spa Relaxation Area and Pool
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