When in Tokyo T

travel
When
in Tokyo
This sprawling
metropolis is
one of the most
enigmatic places
in the world. But
if you know where
to look, Tokyo can
be tamed.
Shopping in Ginza is a favorite pastime, especially on
Sundays, when the main Chuo Dori street is closed
to traffic and becomes a large pedestrian zone.
j e z e b e l
104
m a g a z i n e
Photo by Elina Fuhrman.
T
he power of Tokyo lies in everything
there you couldn’t find in another
country: modern living and ancient
traditions, high-tech gadgets and
cheeky cartoon mascots, old-fashioned
manners and futuristic impulses. One
minute you’re braving crowds in super
trendy Shibuya, the next you are quietly sipping matcha tea in the Zen-like
Hama-rikyu Gardens. It’s a city where
spiritual centers and pocket gardens
compete for sunlight amid ultra-modern skyscrapers.
Tokyo is not a beautiful city, but
beauty here comes at dinner tables, in
store packages, in its dress code and
on dessert plates. It’s a city that is
notoriously difficult to navigate (many
streets have no names), but taxi drivers
will get you where you need to go with
the aid of the GPS systems installed in
every cab. It’s one of the safest cities
in the world, where six-year-old girls
are often seen walking alone to and
from school. To savor Tokyo, you may
try to sample it all, but find its secret
corners, get lost, experience moments
travel
j e z e b e l
105
m a g a z i n e
travel
A bride getting
dressed for a traditional wedding ceremony
at the Meiji Shrine
of stillness, and appreciate its near-virtual reality full of things that
can’t be done anywhere else.
New Experiences
Modern skyscrapers rise above
Zen-like gardens throughout Tokyo
It’s 4 a.m, and you’re jet lagged: the perfect time to make your way
to the Tsukiji Fish Market, the largest fish market in the world. As
you walk past fishmonger stalls and loading docks, watch out for
motor trolleys zipping around. The biggest attraction is the tuna auction, where Tokyo’s restaurants and hotels hustle for the best freshly
caught giant tuna. Eating sashimi for breakfast just moments later in
a nearby sushi bar is surreal; it simply can’t get any fresher.
Arrive at a fancy department store in Ginza at 10 a.m. sharp,
when they open, and watch perfectly coiffed employees line up
for a formal welcome. Join locals in a prayer at Senso-ji Temple,
Tokyo’s oldest Buddhist shrine. Scoop water from the communal
tap at the cleansing station to purify your hands before bowing
your head twice, clapping twice and bowing one more time. Then
retrieve your fortune from the temple’s wooden drawers. Watch
a traditional wedding procession at the Meiji Shrine on a Sunday
morning, the bride in a white kimono and hood and the groom in a
formal black robe, walking together under a red parasol.
If you have more than a day, take the commuter train to
Kamakura to marvel at the Great Buddha, a 43-foot-tall bronze
statue, the largest outdoor statue, cast in 1252. Japanese love cats
and believe that they bring luck, which explains the popularity
of Tokyo’s many cat cafes, where you can surf the net and cuddle
with a kitty at the same time. And never snub a vending machine,
because there’s always more in “store” than you ever dreamed of.
The Conrad Hilton, a contemporary haven rising between the
tranquility of Hama-rikyu Gardens and the glitz of Ginza’s luxury
flagship stores, is the perfect place to rest and reflect on the clash
of extremes outside. Finished in Japanese contemporary style, the
hotel is housed in the upper floors over Shiodome. In a city where
space is at a premium, its generous 500-square-foot rooms and even
bigger suites are a standout with their Japanese-style cherry blossom paintings, huge bathrooms and even walk-in closets. Thanks
to the landmark skyscraper location and floor-to-ceiling windows,
every room has an awe-inspiring view, but the best are the ones that
look over the color-changing Rainbow Bridge and the Tokyo Bay
skyline. After a day of frenetic sightseeing, you will especially
appreciate heated bathroom floors, in-bath flat-screen televisions
and every in-room toiletry you can imagine, including makeup
remover and night cream, as well as high-tech touch lighting and
green tea pots.
Don’t miss a soak in the Mizuki Spa’s genuine Hinoki bath, a
workout in the sky-high fitness center or a swim in the 29th-floor
glass-roofed swimming pool.
j e z e b e l
106
m a g a z i n e
Bride photo by Elina Fuhrman.
Stay At
travel
Conrad Tokyo’s stylish reception
Waitresses dressed in traditional kimonos
at Conrad’s Kazahana restaurant
Modern chandeliers light up China Blue
j e z e b e l
107
m a g a z i n e
The Michelin-starred Gordon Ramsay restaurant features
floor-to-ceiling windows and an open-style kitchen.
travel
A private treatment room for two with
a whirlpool bath at the Mizuki Spa
TOKYO 411
Getting There
Delta currently offers direct flights between Hartsfield-Jackson
and Narita Airport (some 40 miles and an hour-and-a-half
outside of Tokyo's city center). Starting January 29, the carrier will also fly into the significantly more convenient Haneda
Airport (just 30 minutes outside of Tokyo)–direct from Los
Angeles and Detroit. Haneda is also serviced by Japan Airlines (JAL), which has an alliance with American Airlines and
offers direct flights from San Francisco. If you travel in first or
biz class, you will enjoy JAL’s arrival lounge in Haneda's new
international terminal, complete with shower suites to freshen
up before heading into the city.
The Conrad’s spacious suites feature contemporary
Japanese design and offer spectacular views of the city.
Arriving
If you land at Narita, don’t take a costly taxi to your hotel,
instead, hop aboard the wallet-friendly Narita Express. You
can opt for one of the airport coach buses that stop at the
bigger hotels, but it will take longer because of frequent stops.
You are in luck if you end up landing at the Haneda airport, only six miles from the city center and connected to a
subway station by monorail. The journey will only take 20
minutes instead of an hour from Narita. With its curving lines,
designer shops, restaurants and broad views, Haneda airport
is a fun place to be if you have a layover or are just early for
your flight. The Japanese government hopes that the style
and glitz of the new international terminal will spark a tourism
boom, and with its designer stores and funky souvenir shops,
it’s a great place for last-minute shopping if you have leftover
yen. JAL’s Sakura Lounge here is equipped with massage
The hotel's glass-roofed swimming pool
chairs that are so comfortable you'll have a hard time getting
up when your boarding time is announced.
Tipping
Customer service is excellent everywhere, but tipping is not
customary in restaurants, hotels or cabs. Thanking your
server, bellboy or driver and slightly bowing your head is all
that’s required in appreciation.
Getting Around
Practically no one in Tokyo speaks English, and those who
do, refuse to acknowledge it. Unless someone is taking you
around, learn some survival phrases and always carry a map
with your hotel marked clearly on it.
j e z e b e l
108
m a g a z i n e
travel
Traditional Japanese
breakfast includes
miso soup, rice, fish
and pickled veggies.
Order a traditional Japanese breakfast in-room, and if the
skies are clear, enjoy the views while you nibble away on your
bento box. The hotel’s exceptional restaurants include oneMichelin-starred authentic Chinese cuisine at China Blue and Japanese fare at Kazahana. For modern French food, reserve a table at
the Michelin-starred Gordon Ramsay, headed by internationally
acclaimed rising chef Shinya Maeda.
A young boy
dressed in
a traditional
kimono poses
at the walk-up
to Meiji Shrine.
Photos by Elina Fuhrman.
Shop
Tokyo is known as one of the most expensive cities in the world,
but if you know where to shop, you can score some amazing bargains. For unique Japanese fashions, head to Shibuya 109, a shiny
eight-story mall with more than 100 boutiques full of disposable
fashion. The place is popular with teens and twentysomethings
who dress for shopping in over-the-top hats, sporting furry fox tails
on their skinny waists, toting the hottest big-bag brands and text
messaging continuously on their mobiles. It’s an enclave for big
hair (called mori-gami), bling (everything from jeans to fingernails
have been kirakira, or "sparkle-ized"), micro-skirts, booty briefs
and lots of faux fur. Shibuya 109 is famous for giving birth to the
kogal subculture, young girls wearing platform boots, miniskirts,
tons of makeup, spray-on suntans and designer accessories. Note
that everything sold in the mall is for women only and in one size.
Tokyu Hands, another high-rise store, calls itself a “creative
life store” and literally sells everything–from bento boxes and pillows to leather purses and bicycles–plus plenty of souvenirs.
Kappabashi Street, the heart of Kitchenware Town, is a great
place for bargain bento boxes (that also make for gorgeous jewelry
cases), chopsticks and kitchen souvenirs. Who wouldn’t want a
sushi fridge magnet? Plastic food is practically an art form here,
but buyer beware–a soba noodle keychain can set you back $25.
Nakamise Street, the main road that leads to Senso-ji Temple,
is another place to check out. You won’t find a better selection of
cell phone charms anywhere. It’s a great place for wooden toys,
traditional Japanese flip-flops and beautiful papers.
j e z e b e l
Eat
Like Paris, Florence or Bangkok, people often come to Tokyo to
sample its amazing cuisine. You can easily spend a fortune on
a nice meal, but it’s so much more fun to mix with the locals at
Izakaya, the Japanese version of a tapas bar ("I" means to sit and
"sakaya" means sake shop), where you will also discover a different
side of the usually reserved Japanese people. Unlike a bar or a pub,
the Izakaya serves a variety of traditional Japanese foods that go
well with drinks.
Join the after-work crowd in Tokyo’s Financial District, where
the ambiance is lively. The Shin-Marunouchi building is a great
bet for dining, packed with financial professionals. The 37-story
shopping, office and dining complex is a trendy place where locals
wind down with a drink before dinner.
Ebisu is full of Izakaya, and so is Shimbashi, where bargain
restaurants line the streets, serving grilled eel, fried pork, tiny fish
salad, octopus on a stick, seafood-and-rice seaweed wraps and
much more. The food is fresh and tasty, no matter which place
catches your eye.
If you end up buying a snack mid-day, know that fast food is
not to be eaten on the go. Tokyo is not an eat-on-the-go kind of
town. Even the smallest snack, like a rice cracker from a street
food vendor, will be beautifully wrapped or boxed and taped.
Eating on the subway and on the streets is not forbidden but considered rude. –Elina Fuhrman
109
m a g a z i n e