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eatdrink Serving London, Stratford & Area FREE! RESTAURANTS • RECIPES • WINE • TRAVEL A Passion for Cooking The Fairy Tale Behind Woolfy’s eatdrinkmag.net ALWAYS MORE ONLINE Restaurant Search • Reviews • Maps • Links Issue Three • October 2007 Mark Kitching of Waldo’s on King in London what’s cooking upstairs Think you know us? We may surprise you. o! o T s e s s a l C s Kid • Little Hands • Kitchen Kids • Teen Classes We’ve got some of London’s most talented chefs teaching some of the most interesting classes offered anywhere. Whether you’re looking for fresh ideas for your family or knock-out recipes for entertaining friends, we’re offering dozens of choices this fall. Cooking classes include tasting portions and don’t require you to bring special tools. A rich variety of classes are designed for both novice and experienced cooks. There’s plenty for kids too. Book early as classes are filled on a first come, first served basis. Private classes for groups of 12 or more can also be arranged. Register by phone 9am-5pm Mon-Sat at (Loblaws) 1-800-296-2332 Ext. 3 or (Superstore) 1-866-596-7277 Ext. 3 For further information check the websites or call the co-ordinator for your location: FANSHAWE Rebecca McIntosh at 519-673-5326 WONDERLAND Maya Clarke at 519-668-7440 OXFORD Mies Bervoets at 519-434-2070 OAKRIDGE Christine Scheer at 519-641-0932 STRATHROY Barbara Toomer at 519-245-4198 www.loblaws.ca FANSHAWE WONDERLAND 1740 Richmond St N 3040 Wonderland Rd S upstairs at superstore www.superstore.ca OXFORD 825 Oxford Street East OAKRIDGE 1201 Oxford Street STRATHROY 626 Victoria Street CONTENTS NOTE FROM THE PUBLISHER 5 Like a Herd of Turtles The magazine is off to a great start, but it hasn’t always been graceful. By Chris McDonell RESTAURANT PROFILE 6 What’s Luck Got to Do with It? Fairy tale and real life merge at Woolfy’s at Wildwood in St. Marys. By Cecilia Buy BOOKS 11 Feeding the Heart of the Home A review of Lucy’s Kitchen: Signature Recipes and Culinary Secrets. By Jennifer Gagel WINE 14 Is Wine a Superfood? A look at SuperFood Rx: Fourteen Foods that Will Change Your Life. Where does wine fit in? By Shari Darling CHEFS 18 Passion for Perfection Mark Kitching balances his roles as owner and chef at Waldo’s on King in London. By Melanie North EATDRINKBUZZ 24 New & Notable Chefs, restaurants, culinary trends and notable hot spots. Catch the buzz! By Bryan Lavery BEER 34 Autumn Leaves, Fest Beers & Long Dark Lagers It’s time to go to the dark side, Luke! By The Malt Monk SEASONAL RECIPES 38 Our Gardens’ Last Hurrah Recipes for a whole meal of seasonal delights. Ratatouille, anyone? By Christine Scheer TRAVEL 40 Carnival in Lemoux A centuries-old method of invoking a bountiful harvest creates magic in the streets. By Ann McColl Lindsay MIXOLOGY 45 The Fallen Angel Is there a reason why women prefer this drink? Maybe it’s the name. From Robinson Hall Bar & Grill THE LIGHTER SIDE 46 Small Talk: Dining With Children Start ’em young, teach some manners and Be Prepared! By Cecilia Buy eatdrink ™ RESTAURANTS • RECIPES • WINE • TRAVEL eatdrinkmag.net A Food & Drink Magazine Serving London, Stratford & Area ™ » Register for the free digital edition to be delivered monthly — more recipes, photos, stories and links. » A virtual magnet for all things culinary — find restaurants, read reviews and much more. Publisher & Advertising Manager Chris McDonell chris@eatdrinkmag.net Office Manager Cecilia Buy Telephone & Fax 519 434-8349 Mailing Address 525 Huron Street, London ON N5y 4J6 News & Feedback editor@eatdrinkmag.net Contributors Bryan Lavery Melanie North Shari Darling Cecilia Buy Christine Scheer D.R. Hammond Jennifer Gagel Ann McColl Lindsay Editorial Advisory Board Bryan Lavery Chris McDonald Cathy Rehberg Copy Editor Melanie North Graphic Design Hawkline Graphics graphics@eatdrinkmag.net Website Milan Kovar/KOVNET Printing Impressions Printing St. Thomas ON Cover Image Chris and Mary Woolf wave a welcoming flag outside their restaurant Woolfy’s at Wildwood, St. Marys. The Woolfy’s logo is by Scott McKowen, a highly regarded local graphic designer. Copyright © 2007 eatdrink™, Hawkline Graphics and the writers. All rights reserved. Reproduction or duplication of any material published in eatdrink™ or on eatdrinkmag.net™ is strictly prohibited without the written permission of the Publisher. eatdrink™ has a circulation of 10,000 issues published monthly. The views or opinions expressed in the information, content and/or advertisements published in eatdrink™ are solely those of the author(s) and do not necessarily represent those of the Publisher. The Publisher welcomes submissions but accepts no responsibility for unsolicited material. october 2007 • issue three always more online @ eatdrinkmag.net 5 NOTE FROM THE PUBLISHER Like a Herd of Turtles By Chris McDonell e’re off!” my father would enthusiastically announce. Pause. A resigned voice: “... like a herd of turtles.” For, as a rule, the seven McDonell children would be scrambling to get out the door on time, whether it was for school, church, work, or even heading off on vacation. In the car, someone’s head invariably out the window to dry wet hair, tying our shoelaces without the elbow room to even see what we were doing, someone panicking because of a forgotten barrette or necktie, we were, in transit, chaos personified. For those who argue the nature/nurture argument, my parents were (and remain) the people who allow for traffic, train crossings and inclement weather and arrive at events on time, who get a good parking spot and who are never “fashionably late.” Despite the fine example they set, their offspring are notoriously incompetent at timely arrivals and departures. Partings are generally fraught with half-hour “doorknob” conversations, because you just can’t stop visiting even after saying goodbye, and more chat through the open car window after leaving and buckling up. (Much to the chagrin of the good people we’re partnered up with now, and even our children.) I tell you all this because this magazine has borne some of the brunt of these dyedin-the-wool habits. We’re up, we’re running and the big picture looks great. But the start hasn’t been all that graceful. “eatdrink is like a loon,” I told a friend a few days ago. Have you seen a loon take flight? Crazy flapping, running on the “W water, looking like it’ll never get in the air. The bird’s splashy landings are also clumsy. But when it finally takes flight, it streaks through the sky. When it hits the water, it’s sleek and powerful, and dives to great depths. And its voice is compelling, with a range of calls that many find spellbinding. Not a day goes by that we don’t hear encouragement for our efforts to deliver a readable and “read-worthy” magazine. The word is getting out, people are steadily emptying our distribution boxes, more are wondering where they can pick up a copy, businesses are asking about advertising and if they can be a distributor and I’m getting enquiries from some wonderfully talented writers. This month, our illustrious group is joined by Ann McColl Lindsay. I am truly grateful for the quality of writers we have attracted. But don’t be intimidated. If you have a story to tell, let me know. Have you signed up yet for your free subscription to our eatdrink online edition? Remember: no spam. Guaranteed. You can still pick up a hard copy when you wish, but this is the best way to get a reminder about new issues, and we always have more recipes and additional content online. Our website remains a work in progress (as are all good things) but in addition to the online magazine, you can search for restaurants, and reviews are coming soon. Stay tuned! 6 always more online @ eatdrinkmag.net issue three • october 2007 RESTAURANTS What’s Luck Got to Do with It? Fairy tale and real life merge at Woolfy’s at Wildwood By Cecilia Buy Part One: The Fairy Tale Let me tell you the Tale of the Lucky Man. And so he crossed the ocean, and journeyed many miles to a small town. Here, in time, he made many friends, and found true love, and discovered his heart’s dream. He still lives near that small town, and if you meet him, he will tell you that he is not special, but simply that he is a lucky man. nce upon a time, in old London town, a young boy set out to follow his dream. But first, he had to learn how to make his living. After studying for two long years, he went to work in the diamond mines. There he got better at his work, and earned a good reputation. One Part Two: The Reality day, he received a message from a far away land, asking him to travel to that distant It’s a bit like Part One, really. place, there to ply his trade. he man is Chris Woolf. The school is Waltham Forest College in London, England, where he began his training in French cuisine and food service. And at 17 Woolf was hired to work in the private dining rooms of the DeBeers diamond company, where he completed his apprenticeship. I’m not sure if that was luck or not, but it’s an interesting job for the resumé. And it must have impressed Chef JeanMarie Lacroix, who hired Woolf to work at The Church Restaurant in Stratford. Friends, true love, and finding your dream? In Stratford, Woolf met Mary Fuller, the woman who would be his partner in life, love, and business. Over the years they worked hard, forged relationships with other restaurateurs, with local farmers and fishmongers, with wine experts and with inspirational chefs. Lots of nice people. They bought a little motel, in the middle of nowhere. And for the next four years they rented out motel rooms, and served breakfast and Chris and Mary Woolf lunch, and changed the bed linen, O T october 2007 • issue three and had time to play with their children, and to get to know the neighbours. The dreary old motel magically disappeared. To be replaced by an unpretentious but pretty little building, housing a restaurant that has wowed visitors (theatre-goers, serious diners-out, food journalists, and fellow culinartists) for the past seven years. “We were lucky,” insists Woolf, “but we’ve worked hard,” admitting that you don’t achieve this level of success without a combination of experience and effort. “It takes years,” he adds, “and it doesn’t happen overnight.” I would guess talent has something to do with it as well, but he seems a modest man. Woolfy’s at Wildwood is located on Highway 7, just outside St. Marys. So what makes the drive to Woolfy’s worth it? The venue, the food and the service. There are two dining rooms, one on either side of the central reception area. The décor is crisp and modern, (white linen, of course) but the feeling is warm and intimate. The smaller room, which seats about twenty, is used for private functions. In the off-season, the larger dining room is closed and this area used exclusively. Even on this late summer afternoon you can imagine the cozy invitation it offers on a cold and snowy night. The Woolfs participated in establishing the Perth County Slow Food convivium, and the food at their restaurant reflects not only the principles of that movement, but an atti- Woolfy’s offers crisp linens and a modern décor yet feels warm and cozy. always more online @ eatdrinkmag.net 7 tude to food that they have long held. Woolf says that “ever since we started ... everything was local. The breakfast (at the motel) was local eggs, local bacon. If we couldn’t get it, we wouldn’t use it. It was as simple as that.” And when Chris Woolf says “local,” he’s not stretching the truth. He points out the window to a farm directly across the road. It’s an organic farm belonging to Ann Slater, well known to many restaurant and home chefs. “Whatever she brings, we use,” says Woolf. From Sheldon Berries in Lakeside (a tiny town just to the south), come raspberries, blueberries, pumpkins, squash, tomatoes and melons. Megen’s Farms, “a mile down the road,” provides strawberries, raspberries and honey. Among his meat suppliers is Fred de Martines of Perth Pork Products. You might find the flavourful Tamworth or Berkshire pork on the menu, or perhaps wild boar, which Mr. de Martines markets through the delightfully-named Wild Boar Galore. 8 always more online @ eatdrinkmag.net issue three • october 2007 For the fish that frequently appears on the menu, Woolf goes further afield, but just a bit further. Terry’s Global Wide Fish & Seafood of Port Dover picks up right from the fishermen’s boats, and delivers it fresh to the back door of the restaurant. “We use a lot of lake fish: whitefish, pickerel and perch.” All this gladsome use of whatever’s seasonal and local must wreak some Tandoori Shrimp with Mango, havoc on a well-conceived menu, you Cilantro Raita and Pineapple Chutney would think. But for Woolf, it’s more Bauhaus; food follows farmers sort of thing. “I can buy ... by the container On the subject of local cheese-makers, Woolf waxes eloquent and enthusiastic. load,” he acknowledges. But he prefers “Wonderful cheese! They’re selling Feta, “using what you can buy, and turning it into and goat’s cheese, and right now we’re something viable. It’s reflected in the taste using a lot of sheep’s milk cheese. Shep- … and in the quality.” Consequently, the herds Gourmet Dairy in Tavistock [uses] menu at Woolfy’s is changing “all the time.” Fine dining establishments tend to sheep’s milk … Saganaki! And just now we’re trying Friulano, a bit saltier, goes make revisions to their menus a few times really well with fruit, so we offer it as a a year, usually coinciding with the change dessert with fresh fruit—peaches, local of season. The much more frequent changes at Woolfy’s, while dictated by suppears …” This man loves his food. Elegance & Simplicity • Cabinetry • Vanities • Countertops • Millwork It’s a feeling. When craftsmanship of cabinetry meets the detailing of hardware, it creates a symmetry of elegance and simplicity that just feels right. From Roy omson Hall and the John Labatt Centre to many fine homes in London, integrity of design has been the hallmark of our work for over 45 years. Call or visit our showroom for a consultation. CONTINENTAL CABINET COMPANY INC. 519.455.3830 547 Clarke Road (Between Oxford & Dundas) Showroom Hours: Mon-Fri 8am-5pm; Sat 8am-Noon www.continentalcabinet.com october 2007 • issue three ply, are welcomed by the clientele. Especially by the local residents, who are the bread-and-butter, so to speak, of any restaurant in a tourist town. These are the people who continue to dine out even when the theatres are dark, and these are the people “we have got to keep interested.” It should be mentioned that “local,” in terms of Woolfy’s clientele, refers to a larger geographical area than you might think. This place pulls people not only from the Stratford/St. Marys vicinity, but also from as far away as Sarnia and Toronto. For theatre patrons, Woolfy’s offers an attractive alternative to the excellent restaurants located right in Stratford. Whether as a stop on the way or, increasingly, on the way home, the choice of this venue is for many an integral part of their Stratford experience. Chris Woolf is one of those chefs whose fans will follow, wherever they go. “Starting out, I was lucky enough to have a name in always more online @ eatdrinkmag.net 9 Thai Chicken Curry with roasted Pineapple downtown Stratford. Twenty years down the road they still come and see us.” (There he goes again, giving credit to Lady Luck.) One occasionally hears a bit of talk from chefs who are rather disdainful of those for To autumn ... Harvest meals are casual affairs where the important thing is family and food. That’s why we’ve selected sturdy, informal Tableware and Accessories that will serve you well. Shop at our online store for cottage style glassware, mugs, bowls, linens, dish towels, placemats and table accents. Enjoy free shipping in London by entering LONDON in the checkout coupon box. www.blackdogdecor.com (Free Shipping in London) 10 always more online @ eatdrinkmag.net whom they deign to cook. They believe there’s a need to educate us ignorant souls, teach us to appreciate the very special knowledge and talents of the keeper of the fridge. So it’s refreshing to speak to Woolf, who maintains a common-sense attitude to the chef/diner relationship. “People are interested in where they eat, and what they eat,” is Woolf’s straightforward take on the whole dining-out business. And a little bit more specifically, he notes that it is, simply but importantly, a matter of an “association” between the customer and the restaurateur. “It’s not just about the food. It’s not all about the chef in the kitchen, the cantankerous guy who wants to put his stamp on everything. It’s a rounded experience.” And the food is as important as “the wine, [that] is as important as the clean tablecloth.” Michael Stadtlander is one of the chefs he admires, “someone who cares about the environment—deeply—and produces not just good food, but a good time,” adding “If you don’t feel comfortable, it doesn’t really count for much.” Which leads, of course, to the service. Front of house is the purview of Mary Fuller Woolf, whose considerable accomplishments contribute to this vital component of the restaurant experience. She progressed from server to hostess to floor manager, graduated from the Stratford Chefs School, and was employed at Rundles (as assistant pastry chef ) and The Old Prune, as well as working at 20 King Street as sous-chef. The standard of service at Woolfy’s is a slightly “haute” but graceful blend of the personalized and the formal. Wines at Woolfy’s are the exception to the Rule of Local. Practicalities of price and of customer taste demand that the offerings include certain grapes, and certain countries. Canadian wines, like the Baco Noir Reserve, Henry of Pelham, 2004, are included on a very respectable list that provides an “international flavour.” Though not a card-carrying member of the sommelier’s association, Mary Woolf’s considerable experience and taste are apparent in the wine list. The Woolfs also benefit from a friendly association with Billy Munnelly, of Billy’s Best Bottles, who consults with them on their list (and issue three • october 2007 Recipe courtesy of Woolfy’s at Wildwood Gazpacho Soup 6 ripe heirloom tomatoes, peeled and chopped 1 red onion, finely chopped 1 cucumber, peeled, seeded, chopped 1 sweet red bell pepper (or green), seeded and chopped 2 stalks celery, chopped 1-2 Tbsp (15-30 mL) chopped fresh parsley 2 Tbsp (30 mL)chopped fresh chives 1 clove garlic, minced ¼ cup (60 mL) red wine vinegar ¼ cup (60 mL) olive oil 2 Tbsp (30 mL) freshly squeezed lemon juice 2 tsp (10 mL) sugar Salt and fresh ground pepper, to taste 6 drops of Tabasco sauce 1 tsp (5 mL) Worcestershire sauce 4 cups (1 L) tomato juice 1 Combine ingredients. Blend to a smooth consistency. Place in nonmetal, non-reactive storage container, cover and refrigerate overnight. 2 Serve with extra chopped chives, cucumber and red pepper dice. who suggests that when you go to Woolfy’s, “skip the play and keep eating and drinking”). If you ever find yourself at Woolfy’s, what can I say? Consider yourself lucky. CECILIA BUY is a writer and designer who has enjoyed living and dining in London for the past 17 years. Woolfy’s at Wildwood RR2 St. Marys, Highway 7 & (118)119 519-349-2467 www.woolfys.com Lunch: tuesday-friday 11:30am-2:00pm Dinner: tuesday-friday from 5:00pm Closed Sunday, Monday a lway s mo re o nl ine Another great recipe courtesy of WOOLFY’S AT WILDWOOD, just a click away! october 2007 • issue three always more online @ eatdrinkmag.net 11 BOOKS Feeding the Heart of the Home Review by Jennifer Gagel ucy Waverman observed that people “want to learn more about cooking and to make it a pleasurable part of their lives,” and so she decided to teach us. She’s the woman to do it, too. She knows cooking, having attended Cordon Bleu for her training. She knows people, having taught in cooking schools. She knows readers, after receiving years of feedback as a Globe and Mail columnist and the LCBO Food & Drink magazine editor. Lucy’s Kitchen: Signature Recipes and Culinary Secrets (Random House Canada Ltd, 2006, $35) is the result. It masquerades as a cookbook but, in actuality, it’s a textbook— to cooking better and loving it more. This book will teach you how to be a more accomplished and comfortable cook, no matter your skill level. The pictures are beautiful, and plentiful enough to keep you flipping pages over and over again. It’s all real food photographed right in Lucy’s kitchen. The layout is simple and pleasing to the eye, while also being functional. Each culinary skill is tabbed blue for easy reference. Loaded with a variety of recipes, there is something sure to please every palate. It is also accessible, made from the ingredients Lucy loves and keeps on hand, no yeast breads or recipes requiring a terrible amount of fuss. Most of the recipes can be prepared in less than 20 minutes, with a bit of practice. Lucy shares her readers’ favourites with us, such as Risotto with Scallops and Roasted Cauliflower, a recipe she developed for the Globe and Mail. There’s also Brownie Pudding, a friend’s tried-andtrue creation. If you are at all experimental in your cooking, then this is a great book to test substitutions on. The Oeufs en L Cocotte worked wonderfully with broccoli instead of spinach, and was simple and fast enough to throw together when unexpected guests arrived. I didn’t have truffle oil, but it still turned out lovely. The principles involved: using a water bath (or bain marie) to poach delicate foods to set, but not to overcook, can be used over and over again in great cooking. Lucy has a fabulous sense for how flavours combine, and crosses ethnic cuisines with a world passport. Her heritage is Scottish, but she incorporates other cuisines, such as Asian or Indian, uniquely and with ease, creating a multicultural cuisine that would make Trudeau proud. Edamame, green soya beans, are usually thought of as Japanese, but Lucy mixes them with Mexican seasonings to create an Emerald Edamame Dip, one that could excite anyone’s taste buds. Do let it sit for at least a few hours, or preferably overnight. Melding the flavours makes a big difference. If you are embarking on a return to the kitchen, striving to eat better, give yourself a well-stocked pantry and a week of cooking at home with this book. It is a serious shortcut to leaving pre-packaged food behind forever, and whipping up something great when guests pop in. For those who already make the kitchen the centre of their home, this book will fit beautifully into your lifestyle. Lucy’s casual approach to exquisite food makes it accessible for all. Leaving the onion skins on when making chicken broth “will give the stock a rich yellow colour.” Excellent tips, right where you need them, are evidence she knows her audience. While she admits she loves copper pots, “they are impractical 12 always more online @ eatdrinkmag.net for the home cook.” In addition to culinary techniques and delicious recipes, she clearly illustrates that you can do something fabulous with a few basics on hand. You begin to see there is always something fun you can do. The recipes work well together, so if you stock up for one or two, you’ll find several more options with many of the ingredients left on hand. And if your pantry is regularly well stocked, you will never be without something to pull together. After some time spent with Lucy’s Kitchen, your kitchen will also be the vibrant heart of your home. issue three • october 2007 Chili Squash Soup 2 Tbsp butter 1 cup chopped onions 1 tsp ground coriander 1 tsp ground cumin ½ tsp ground fennel seeds ¼ tsp chili flakes pinch ground cloves 4 cups diced butternut squash 3 cups chicken stock ½ cup orange juice Salt and freshly ground black pepper ¼ cup sour cream 2 Tbsp chopped chives 1 JENNIFER GAGEL began her love affair with food at age eight, cooking for a family of food lovers and fickle eaters under the tutelage of her two European grandmothers. She 2 works for the London Public Library, where she scours the cookbook selection to plan her next culinary experiment. 3 Recipes courtesy of Lucy Waverman, Lucy’s Kitchen: Signature Recipes and Culinary Secrets (Random House Canada Ltd, 2006) 4 Emerald Edamame Dip (About 2 cups) 2 cups shelled edamame ½ cup mayonnaise ½ cup plain yogurt ½ tsp lemon juice ½ tsp ground cumin ½ tsp chili powder 2 Tbsp chopped chives Salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 Heat butter in a large pot over medium heat. Add onions and sauté for about 2 minutes, or until softened. Stir in coriander, cumin, fennel, chili flakes and cloves. Add squash and mix with spices. Add stock and orange juice and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until squash is soft, about 10 to 15 minutes. Puree soup and return to pot. Season with salt and pepper. Reheat and serve with a swirl of sour cream and chives. Serves 4. Risotto with Scallops and Roasted Cauliflower Roasted Cauliflower 2 cups cauliflower florets (cut in bite-size pieces) Combine edamame, mayonnaise, cumin, 1 Tbsp olive oil yogurt, lemon juice, chili powder and Salt and freshly ground black pepper chives in a food processor. Season with Scallops salt and pepper and process until smooth. 1 Tbsp olive oil Dagmar Kovar Fibre Artist Open Studio Door November 29 and 30, 2pm to 6pm December 1, 10am to 4pm 538 Adelaide Street N. (at Princess) London, Ontario dkovar@start.ca october 2007 • issue three 12 large scallops Salt and freshly ground black pepper Risotto 3 Tbsp butter ½ cup finely chopped onions ½ tsp finely chopped garlic 1 cup Carnaroli or arborio rice ½ cup white wine 4 cups hot chicken stock ¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese 2 Tbsp chopped parsley Salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 Preheat oven to 425 F. 2 Toss cauliflower, oil, salt and pepper in a large bowl. Spread on a baking sheet and roast, stirring occasionally, for 15 minutes, or until golden and tender. Reserve. Heat 2 Tbsp butter in a heavy pot over medium heat for risotto. Add onions and garlic and sauté for 2 minutes. Add rice and stir to coat with butter, about 1 minute. Pour in wine and simmer until wine is completely absorbed. Add 1 cup hot stock and simmer until 3 4 always more online @ eatdrinkmag.net 5 6 13 stock is nearly absorbed. Continue adding stock a cup at a time until 3 cups stock have been absorbed (about 20 minutes in total). Stir in reserved cauliflower. Add remaining stock and cook until rice is al dente. Prepare scallops by heating oil in a skillet over high heat while risotto is cooking. Season scallops with salt and pepper and fry for 2 minutes per side, or until golden. Stir in remaining 1 Tbsp butter, cheese and parsley. Season with salt and pepper. Serve risotto in soup bowls topped with scallops. Serves 4 as an appetizer. a lway s mo re o nl ine JENNIFER GAGEL has picked two more great recipes from LUCY’S KITCHEN. The “Oeufs en Cocotte” and “Brownie Pudding” recipes, courtesy of LUCY WAVERMAN, are just a click away! .COKPCVGF %CPCFKCP 9KPG 9JGGN &GUKIPGF D[ 5JCTK &CTNKPI VCZGU KPENWFGF #XCKNCDNG CV YYYUQRJKUVKECVGFYKPQEQO '5JQR QT ECNN 14 always more online @ eatdrinkmag.net issue three • october 2007 WINE Is Wine a Superfood? By Shari Darling hen I was a kid my mom would always repeat, “Eat your spinach. It’s good for you.” Somehow, my mom knew instinctively that spinach was a superfood. I should have realized its power, given Popeye’s love for it, but I was too busy indulging my immature palate with corn, macaroni and cheese, chocolate, pizza, potato chips and French fries. (Yippee!!) Unfortunately, I was laying the groundwork for my carbohydrate addiction, and there’s no 12-step program for this gut-expanding, flab-producing, artery-blocking, childish diet program. I’ve recently learned that adding superfoods into one’s diet will aid in boosting the immune system and fight disease. Dr. Steven Pratt is considered the “Superman” of superfoods. He is a world-renowned authority on the role of nutrition and lifestyle in the prevention of disease and optimizing health. A senior staff ophthalmologist at Scripps Memorial Hospital in La Jolla, California and an assistant clinical professor at the University of California at San Diego, Pratt is also the author of SuperFoods Rx: Fourteen Foods That Will Change Your Life. According to Pratt, about 14 superfoods are better for you than others. “Each food was selected based on gold standard research of healthy dietary patterns around the world,” he says. “These foods are an integral part of all the recognized healthy dietary patterns that prevent disease and extend our health span, and perhaps our life span.” This is certainly not an exhaustive list, but here are Pratt’s “Top 14” superfoods: Beans: A great low-fat, low-calorie source W of protein and an easy way to help control your weight and your blood sugar. Blueberries: The best food on the planet to preserve a young brain as we mature. Broccoli: The best food on the planet to prevent cancer. Oats: A sure-fire way to lower cholesterol. Oranges: The most readily available source of vitamin C, that in turn lowers the rate of most causes of death in North America, such as heart disease and cancer. Pumpkin: Loaded with phytonutrients that keep our skin young and help prevent damage from sunlight. Wild salmon: A guaranteed way to lower your risk for cardiac-related death. Soy: The only complete vegetarian source of protein. Spinach: The best food on the planet to prevent cataracts and age-related macular degeneration, a leading cause of blindness. Tea (green or black): The easiest and cheapest no-calorie way to decrease the risk of heart disease and cancer. Tomatoes: One of the easiest ways for men to lower their risk of prostate cancer is the consumption of tomatoes and tomatobased products. Skinless turkey breast: The leanest meat source of protein on the planet. Walnuts: Consuming walnuts is an easy, tasty way to lower your risk of cardiovascular disease. Yogurt: A tasty, easy way to boost your immune system. While Pratt does not list wine as a superfood, I certainly include it on my list. I’m not a doctor, but I do know my wine and I know about its super benefits. Studies show that red wine, consumed october 2007 • issue three always more online @ eatdrinkmag.net 15 in moderation and with meals, contributes toward a healthy lifestyle. So Shari Darling extols there’s absolutely no reason why you wine’s health benefits shouldn’t include red wine as a and the food pairing superfood. Boost your intake of possibilities with beans superfoods, cut down on fat, calories and wild salmon, two of Dr. and carbohydrates and enjoy a glass Steven Pratt’s “superfoods.” of the fermented red grape. Research also shows that where the diet is high in fat, those who drink red wine with meals have a lower incidence of heart attacks. That’s another characteristic of a superfood. Red wine also contains compounds, such as antioxidants, that aid in protecting our hearts and reducing the risk of strokes. Resveratrol is the most famous antioxidant found in red wine. It is believed to be good at mopping up chemicals responsible for causing blood clots, the primary cause of heart disease. Guercetin is another antioxidant believed to help prevent lung cancer. into the fall! Red wine also has a flavanoid known as Dancing Bull Zinfandel (E. & J. Gallo catechin that contributes to the reduction Winery, lcbo 669499, 750 mL, $13.95) A red of heart attacks. wine with forward fruit character to pair Add to this that a glass of red wine after a with superfoods turkey breast and stressful day acts as a natural tranquilizer, steamed broccoli. reducing anxiety and tension. Wine also Black Box Paso Robles Cabernet Sauviaids in our digestion and contributes min- gnon (Pacific Wine Partners, lcbo 38331, erals and vitamins to our bodies. 1000 mL, $14.15) An austere red wine with lots of pleasant tannin and astringency to Recommended Bottles pair with the superfoods of walnuts and Pairing superfoods with wine makes sense spinach. How about a spinach salad with in lots of ways. Here’s some suggestions: toasted walnuts, red onions and proThirty Bench Riesling 2006 (Andres sciutto with shavings of Parmesan? Wines Ltd, Vintages 24133, 750 mL, $17.95). A crisp, dry white wine ideal to pair with SHARI DARLING is a member of the Wine Writers’ Circle of superfoods such as green beans, broccoli Canada, author of numerous books such as Harmony on the and fresh tomatoes. Palate: Matching Simple Recipes to Everyday Wine Cave de Turckheim Gewurztraminer Styles and co-author of The Wine Manual, a resource for Réserve 2005 (Ernest Preiss, Vintages sommelier and wine training in colleges and universities. 10397, 750 mL, $19.95). An off-dry white She can be reached through her website: www.sophistiwine with a hint of sweetness, ideal to pair catedwino.com. with the superfoods of curried pumpkin and a fresh green salad highlighting an a lway s mo re o nl ine orange vinaigrette or a spinach salad with orange wedges. Toasted Head Chardonnay (V ) (R.H. A fabulous “CURRIED PUMPKIN SOUP” Phillips, Vintages 594341, 750 mL, $17.95). A recipe from SHARI DARLING, perfect to pair with big, fat white wine to pair with the supera California Zinfandel, is just a click away! food wild salmon. Use the barbecue well Stratford is more than great theatre “The appreciation for quality that Stratford visitors have for theatre extends to what they eat ... A cosmopolitan food scene featuring imagination and craftsmanship has evolved in the area.” — Katherine Dowhan, Homemakers The Schnitzel House Fresh Homemade (Pounded Daily) Variety of Schnitzels Rouladen • Vegetarian • Seafood (Next door to the Avon Theatre) 519-275-3266 WWW.FOSTERSINN.COM 111 D o w n i e S t r e e t , S T R AT F O R D 1- 8 8 8 - 7 2 8 - 5 5 5 5 Just steps away from Theatre Photo: Dave Rees 107 Downie Street • Stratford SHELDON RUSSELL CHEF/PROPRIETOR “Modern, ever-evolving, flavour-packed cuisine. You will enjoy it.” Covered outdoor patio 34 Brunswick behind the Avon Theatre Reservations 519 271 5645 www.keystonealley.com Appetizing suites Upstairs at the Cafe Reservations 519 271 5645 18 always more online @ eatdrinkmag.net issue three • october 2007 CHEFS Passion for Perfection By Melanie North F I met Mark at his Waldo’s on King Bistro and Wine Bar at London’s Covent Garden Market. We sat out on the King Street patio for a “Longo.” Melanie North: Well, Mark, my first question is: What is a Longo? Mark Kitching: It’s a shot of espresso but with double the water—very simple, very good. MN: Love it. As long as I am asking for definitions, what is your definition of a “Bistro”? MK: We took the definition right out of the dictionary and put it on our menu. Bistro: an intimate, informal restaurant that serves wine. A small or unpretentious restaurant or bar. MN: That makes me wonder—is that why you left your Piccadilly Street location, because you wanted to make a complete change from Fine Dining to something more casual? MK: To be honest, the Piccadilly location had a 15-year lease, and at about 12 years into it, I started to rethink the Chef Mark Kitching takes a playful pose outside his London restaurant Waldo’s on King. Dave Chidley, Mainstreet London ew people recognize their “True Calling” at 10 years of age, but that’s exactly what Mark Kitching did when he found himself working Saturdays at Jones’ Bakery in Southport, just outside of Manchester, England. He quickly moved from pressing the pastry into molds for pie shells, to making the dough himself, along with the breads, and then the pies, and then decorating the tops of the pastry shells. He says he did poorly in school but when he started baking he got nothing but compliments. The better he did, the more compliments he got. So by age 14, his boss, Mr. Jones told him to expand his repertoire and become a complete chef. Mark has never looked back. always more online @ eatdrinkmag.net october 2007 • issue three “dining business.” I realized I wanted a more relaxed atmosphere, not Fine Dining. It turned out that I couldn’t renegotiate the lease, so that resulted in a fresh turnaround. I found this new space and it was perfect for a bistro-style restaurant. It has a patio, faces onto King St. and is also open to the Market. There’s lots of parking and lots of “walk-by” traffic. The old restaurant was a destination location and normally the business was 80% reservations. Here it is the opposite; 80% walk-in and 20% reservations. 19 Grilled Calamari with a lemon garlic dip drizzled with basil olive oil MN: What do you like personally about the bistro atmosphere? MK: Everything. For example, our clientele—they really range from 1 to 85 years old and the price point is perfect for a wide range of customers too. I like the openness, and the casual feeling here. MN: Speaking of openness, is that the reason the kitchen is open to the restau- rant—for the “bistro” atmosphere? MK: No actually, I just like to keep an eye on everything! I like to be sure the customers are getting the attention they deserve. My staff is great, but sometimes things slip and I can keep an eye on everything and make sure it’s running smoothly. Our place is intimate, and I have a “feel” for things. I know instantly if a customer wants something, if they are a little restless because they are waiting too long for coffee, and I’ll Waldo’s on King Bistro and Wine Bar is also, as the name suggests, a great spot for more than the good food. 20 always more online @ eatdrinkmag.net Crème Brûlée and fresh berries tell their waiter to go to their table. By the time you have finished your meal here, you have probably interacted with everyone on the floor— and that’s a good thing. When I hire, I look first and foremost for a person with a great personality and then we train them. I always ask incoming employees what they’ve heard about me. One recently answered, “I knew someone who used to work for you and he said that you expect staff to do everything perfectly all the time.” I [Mark] believe that’s a good thing— that’s OK with me. That’s what we should be doing. I mean, mistakes will happen. For example, if you burn a steak, that’s a mistake, but if you then serve it to the customer, that’s an unforgivable mistake. MN: Would your staff describe you as a bit of a control freak? MK: Of course, I am a little bit obsessivecompulsive about things, but I think that comes with being a “cook/ owner.” I don’t call myself a chef, I call myself a cook. I think the word “chef” is really a bastardized French word, like I’m saying constantly “I’m issue three • october 2007 the boss.” I really am the boss, but my guys in the kitchen call me Mark. I think it’s a sign of mutual respect. MN: You have two roles to balance here: the cook and the owner. How would you describe yourself as a cook? MK: I would say that I am not the most creative cook but I am one of the most consistent. I would rather be a cook with solid ability and precision than be very creative. I’m more of a simple, technical cook. I like to cook to perfection. My favourites are meats and sauces, but like everything, it depends on my mood. I actually love everything. I am consistent and I require my staff to be consistent. It takes a certain something to be successful at those hundreds of details every day. For example, are the plates clean, are they hot? Did you know that we have two ovens just for heating plates? The plates have to be hot enough so that the chef can just carry the plate from the oven to the plating area—about three feet—and put the food on, (before he would burn his hand) but then the waiter needs a cloth to carry it, because it’s still so hot. That’s what I mean about consistency. MN: You say you are not the most creative cook. Do you experiment at all? MK: I do experiment. I have ideas, or things I’ve heard of. I’ll try something and then send it out to a regular customer to critique. If they like it, I’ll put it on as a menu item. I have a lot of regulars, and I only change the menu twice a year—and they like it that way. We don’t have a particular focus here, we like the demographic and like to be good at everything. MN: What do you like to eat? MK: I like to eat anything, but it has to be simple. There’s nothing like fresh october 2007 • issue three asparagus grilled on the barbecue, or a simple roast fish on the barbecue. I like everything fresh, foods that are cooked and served right away, as fast as possible, and if they are supposed to be hot, they should be hot. MN: What are your strengths as an owner? MK: As a cook/owner, you have to always have respect for the bottom line. That’s why they call it the restaurant “business.” I wouldn’t recommend it to someone who wasn’t truly passionate and knew they would do it for the rest of their lives. One of the things people don’t talk about is, it’s a very hard, stressful job. There are lots of rewards and a lot of hard work. The stress is because you always have to be on top of your game. Organization is key. I’ve met some really creative cooks, but artsy doesn’t perform quickly and efficiently. A restaurant is like a living organism and it has a flow—that can be different every day, so you have to be able to cope with that. For example I can sell $5000 in the four hours from 5-9:00 p.m. Other days, I can sell $4000 in 1½ hours always more online @ eatdrinkmag.net 21 Tomato and Goat Cheese Stack on a bed of mesclun greens richly flavored with a balsamic glaze and basil oil and I don’t have a second to think. You have to do both well. MN: What advice would you give young people who want to making cooking their career? MK: Know what you want and where you want to go. I mapped it all out when I was 13 years old. Be honest, ask yourself: what is it that I want? If it’s a roadhouse, then work in some roadhouses. If food is the big thing, then put your nose to the grindstone and work in better and better places. Map out what you want. Roast Rack of Lamb, hazelnut and rosemary crusted, finished with a red wine and shallots demi-glaze 22 always more online @ eatdrinkmag.net I think that TV has done a disservice to young people. It’s not complicated. To be a good cook you have to be knowledgeable about a lot of things. You have to know how to take apart a chicken, in fact take apart any kind of meat. Kids now don’t deal with the basics, they order a box of precut, boneless chicken, but don’t necessarily know how to do that themselves. You have to take the best products you can get, and you need to cook it well. Technical ability is THE most important thing. You have got to have a feel for food, to like touching food. You can tell just by the touch if a rack of lamb is ready – you shouldn’t have to stick a thermometer into it. Be in tune with food, know intuitively and technically how to cook. MN: Mark, you are obviously passionate about what you do, but is there anything else in the world you would have chosen for a career? issue three • october 2007 MK: Well, languages would be my second choice. I speak fluent German and French and a smattering of Arabic and Thai. When I immerse myself in languages, it’s the same feeling I get when I immerse myself in cooking. But I love the restaurant business. It’s crazy stressful, but it’s a wonderful business. You don’t have to be crazy to work in it, but it sure helps! MELANIE NORTH is a seasoned communications professional with experience in broadcast TV, corporate video, website development, communications strategy, writing and editing. She can't cook, but loves to eat! Waldo’s on King Bistro and Wine Bar 130 King St, London (Covent Garden Market) 519-433-6161 www.waldos.on.ca Mon-Thurs: 11am-10pm Fri-Sat: 11am-midnight (bar open ’til 1am) Sunday: noon-4pm Walk rough the Grades Come look inside! Waldorf classrooms are alive with the spirit of learning, using the head, heart and hands. Beautiful artwork and natural materials decorate each classroom and give testament to the integration of the arts into our curriculum. Our aim is to educate the whole child, not just academically but also through movement, through the arts, through social encounter, and through the spirit of inquiry. Book your appointment today to come and experience this education for yourself. 7 Beaufort Street, London ON N6G 1A5 519-858-8862 www.londonwaldorf.ca <RX < RX ZRQ¶W ZRQ¶W JHW JJHHW PHDOVWKLV PHDOV WKLV GGHOLFLRXV HOLFLRXV DDQG QG QQXWULWLRXV XWUULWLRXV IIURP URP D VVWRUH WRUH IIUHH]HU UHH]HU 7EVE 7 EEVE GOT A BETTER W WAY AY TO O SER SERVE VE HOMECOO HOMECOOKED KED E MEALS TO YYOUR OUR FAMI LY AND FR FFRIENDS RIENDS IENDS !T $INNER FAMILY 2EVOLUTION YOU YOUU PREPARE DIFFERENT DIFFFERENT FE 2EVOLUTION FAMILYSIZED ENTR£ES MADE WITH FRESH FAMILYSIZED WHOLESOME WHOLESOM ME INGREDIENTS IN ONLY TWO HOURS HOURS 4HERES 4HERES E NO GGROCERY ROCERY SHOPPING NO PPREP REEP E W WORK ORK C STREESS NO CLEAN UP AND NO STRESS )TS EASY )TS EASY 'O TO WW WWWDINNERREVOLUTIONCOM WDINNERREVOLUTIONCCOM TO SELECT MONTHLY SE LECT YYOUR OUR MEALS FROM OUR MONTH LY M MENU AND SESSION7E SHOPPING AN ND BOOK A SESSION 7E DO ALL THE SHO OPPING CHOPPING UP CH HOPPING PREP AND CLEAN UUP P !LL YYOU OU HHAVE AVE V ASSEMBLE RECYCLABLE TO O DO IS ASSEM BLE YYOUR OUR MEALS IN RECYC CLABLE STACKABLE CONTAINERS STA ACKABLE CONTAINE R S THAT MA MAKE KE FREEZIN FREEZING NG AND AFTER BREEZE AFT ER DINNER CLEAN UP A BREE ZE 'RAB N 'O $INNER 2EVOLUTION PERFECT FAMILIES $IN NER 2E VOLUTION IS PER RFFEECT FFOR O OR BBUSY USY FA AMILIES COTTAGE AND ENTE EENTERTAINING R TAINING n AT HOME OR THE COTTAG GE 2EVOLUTION CERTIlCATES $INNERR 2E VOLUTION GIFT CE R TIlCATES ARE ALSO A GREAT IDEAA FFOR O OR BBRIDES RIDES AND NEW MOMS 3ERVICE OFFERS MORE CONVENIENCE 'RAB N 'O 3E RVICE OF FFFERS EEVEN VEN MO RE CO NVENIEENCE 7EE DO THE MEAL ASSEMBLY SIZED 7 M ASSEMB LY FFOR OR YYOU OU 3MALLER SIZE ED PORTIONS CHEF CAN BE O ORDERED PO RTIONS PPREPARED REPPARED BBYY OUR ONSITE CHEF RDERED ADVANCE .%7 ! VARIETY OF FFRESH IN ADVANCE RESH SALADS IN SIZES TO O SERVE AVAILABLE SER VE OR AARE RE NOW AV VAILABLE :HH ZHOFRPH JURXS SDUWLHV DQG FRUSRUDWH HYH : HYHQWV HQWV 0ICK K 9OUR !FTERNOON %VENING %VENING OR 3ATURDAY 3ESSION AND A 2EGISTER BY 0HONE 0HO ONE OR /NLINE )TS )T S 4HAT %ASY % %ASY (YDE 0A 0ARK R K 2D 2D D s ON THE W WEST EST SIDE BET BETWEEN WEEN &ANSH &ANSHAWE HAWE 0A 0ARK R K 2D 2D AND 'AINSBOROUGH 2D T WW WDINNERREVOLUTIONNCOM WWWDINNERREVOLUTIONCOM 24 always more online @ eatdrinkmag.net issue three • october 2007 EATDRINKBUZZ New and Noteworthy By Bryan Lavery Buzz [buhz], noun. 1. A feeling of calm, usually happy intoxication. 2. a particularly strong kind of word of mouth. ost professional chefs I am acquainted with identify first and foremost with the term “cook.” They do not find the word offensive in the least. Rather, it is a badge of honour. A chef or chef de cuisine is still by vocation a cook, who happens to be in charge of the work of other cooks. Yet most want to be referred to as a chef—it has more caché. Writing this column has presented a unique set of occupational hazards. I am surprised at how caught up people get about titles. Yet, saying that, I could also argue why these are delicate matters of professional integrity and self-esteem. Some people feel deeply affronted when they are not properly recognized for their achievements or status. In a previous column, I neglected to properly identify one of the subjects by their professional title. This was not an intentional slight but I was quickly reminded how thin-skinned we restaurant folk can be. We take serious umbrage when we feel we have been slighted. In fact, I am still waiting for the additional half-star that I felt was missing from the review of my first restaurant, La M Cucina, which I co-owned with my parents 18 years ago. In hindsight, it was a very respectable review, but I was unable to see that at the time because I was too caught up in my own self-importance. This magazine, and this column in particular, (I will say it again) was conceived to introduce you to local chefs, restaurants, restaurateurs and the food world at large. My personal goal is to encourage people to dine out and reinforce a sense of community in the local culinary world. I walk a tight-rope, with my credibility at stake. On the one hand, some seem to expect me to gush unrestrained about every restaurant every issue. On the other hand, some encourage me to take a more critical and occasionally harsh approach. Of course, the temptation to do so is there. I recently received the most pretentious tutorial I’ve ever been given by a server; the condescension fell just short of commenting on my table manners. But mentioning negative specifics truly goes against what I am trying to achieve in this column. I will continue to help connect readers with what I see as “the buzz” as best I can. I recently returned from a culinary tour of Montreal and the Ferme Cooperative Tourne-Sol, an organic co-operative in nearby Les Cedres. Arguably the most “the ultimate experience in fine dining” LuNCH Tues to Fri 11am–2pm DINNER Tues to Sat 5:30pm–10pm SuNDAY BRuNCH 11am–2pm Closed Monday 1269 Hyde Park Road, London 519 472 6801 www.volkers.ca Chef Volker Jendhoff always more online @ eatdrinkmag.net october 2007 • issue three European of North American cities, Montreal is a food-lovers paradise. I was fascinated by the wealth of gourmet food shops, outdoor markets, cafés, restaurants, delis, bakeries and exquisite products specific to Quebec. Where else can you watch locals walking down the street sipping a concoction of Campari, Grand Marnier and pink grapefruit juice? Purchased, no less, at a portable sidewalk marquee set up by the SAQ, Quebec’s equivalent of the LCBO? Or a hardware store that sells remarkable cookware and specialty food products on one side of the store and guns and ammunition on the other? If you should find yourself in Montreal, among my favourite dining experiences was the centrally located La Colombe, a small but classic French bistro with a Moroccan twist. And no trip to Montreal would be complete without a visit to the Jean Talon market in Little Italy. It is a hive of activity seven days a week. Interestingly, the second if not the third coming of nouvelle cuisine is firmly reestablished in some of Montreal’s finest and most sophisticated restaurants. In Ontario, nouvelle cuisine has a bad reputation, partly because of poor execution resulting in the unfortunate matrimony of ambiguous ingredients, miniscule portions and the misunderstanding of what nouvelle cuisine’s “ten commandments” manifesto truly means. However, we do have local restaurants that embody the finest qualities of nouvelle cuisine and embrace its tenets seriously. The food is equivalent to some of the best in Montreal. In London, we have The Only on G N I N E P O OON! S 25 King and On the Fork in Museum London. In Stratford, you can find this evolutionary approach to cooking on menus at Rundles, The Old Prune and The Church Restaurant. Speaking of evolutionary, the time when vegetarianism was a dreary afterthought in most restaurant kitchens is definitely a thing of the past. Zen Gardens Vegetarian Restaurant is the real deal, and recently celebrated its second year in business. The menu is as delicious and diversified as they come. My knowledgeable server described the cuisine as Asian-Fusion Vegetarian. Fusion cuisine combines elements of various culinary traditions while not fitting specifically into any one. The Zen Garden menu runs the gamut of Asian cuisines that also includes tempura, a classic Japanese dish of deep fried lightly battered vegetables, and a selection of sushi. There are also plenty of vegan items to choose from. Try the spicy eggplant bento box; it is one of my favorites. A small selection titled Dim Sum on their menu is somewhat of a misnomer. Dim Sum is traditionally a way of eating that combines delicious bite-size morsels of food, with a diversity of items that read like the Magna Carta. Zen Gardens offers both barbeque and vegetable steamed buns that appear to be microwaved instead of the more traditional technique of frying or steaming. The practice of reheating pre-made Dim Sum has become all the rage in Mainland China, Hong Kong, Taiwan and Singapore. To Zen Garden’s credit (and like any self- Bringing You the Flavours of Puerto Vallarta! Restaurante y Bar Mexicano 394 Waterloo Street, London 519-936-3186 Susan Anderson & Enrique Orozco 26 always more online @ eatdrinkmag.net respecting vegetarian restaurant), they do not use disposable chopsticks. In China alone, an estimated 45 billion pairs of disposable chopsticks are used and thrown away annually. The service at Zen Gardens is friendly, often entertaining and very attentive. Even if you are not a vegetarian, this is a place to go when you want some peace of mind. The upscale Santorini opened this past March in the space formerly occupied by Mario’s, on downtown London’s Clarence Street. Santorini serves authentic and delicious Greek food in beautiful and tasteful surroundings. The wine list is exclusively Greek. The kitchen at Santorini knows how to cook fish to perfection and the service is top-notch. The food is served on colorful, decorated plastic plates that might be better suited to a picnic. But there might be a reason for this: In recent years the tradition of smashing plates at Greek restaurants has all but disappeared because restaurateurs fear it will lead to issue three • october 2007 them being sued by customers getting hit by flying crockery. Another notable Greek restaurant that garners rave reviews is the cozy Mythic Grill on Albert Street. For something a bit more casual, the venerated Mykonos on Adelaide Street is always a treat when coowner Heidi Vamvalis is in the house. Heidi is renowned for her genuine hospitality and generosity of spirit. Fans of Viet-Thai cuisine should check out Ben Thanh Restaurant. They are wellknown for their Pad Thai, vermicelli dishes and traditional Vietnamese noodle soup dishes known as pho. A very large menu with reasonable prices and good portions helps this remain a perennial favourite of students on a budget. This is not fine dining but they have two locations, the one on Bradley being newer and subsequently tidier than the one downtown. Eddy Phimphrachanh also recently cele- A t the top of the most recommended restaurants in London, Michael’s on the Thames (established 1983) has remained a popular success for its cuisine, unmatched superb service and fine dining at an affordable price. London’s renowned Maitre d’Extraordinaire Jack DiCarlo and the staff make your dining experience a memorable one. Whether for business or private functions, the menu will please every palate. A welcoming atmosphere is enhanced with music from the grand piano six nights a week. Take the time to enjoy superb cuisine, tableside cooking, fine wine and the company of friends. Monday to Friday 11am-11pm Saturday and Sunday 5pm-11pm Gift Certificates Available 1 York Street • Free Parking Dine with us before events at the John Labatt Centre Reservations are suggested. Call 519-672-0111 • www.michaelsonthethames.com october 2007 • issue three brated an anniversary at his restaurant Thaifoon. Authentic Thai food is known for its balance of five fundamental flavours in each dish or the overall meal: hot (spicy), sour, sweet, salty and bitter. Phimphrachanh comes from a wellrespected restaurant family that knows how to cook. I recommend making a reservation at this downtown hot-spot if you want to get a table. It can be a very busy place. And across the street is Billy’s Deli, a sitdown downtown restaurant landmark with some of the friendliest service and best food in the city. It’s a deli, so the sandwiches are excellent and made to order. Billy’s has made a name for itself with excellent smoked meat, exactly what tradition demands. This is a place I eat at often and it is absolutely de rigueur for those looking for the perfect Saturday breakfast spot. Get there early if you want a table, but even when they are busy, it’s worth the wait. Billy’s has the best potato always more online @ eatdrinkmag.net 27 latkes in the city and is renowned for delicious mennonite-style homemade pies. In another part of town, Willie’s Café is a great place for casual dining and comfort food. They never disappoint and they know how to make soup and darn good sandwiches. Willie’s, a popular restaurant and well-known caterer, serves a prix-fixe dinner the last Friday of every month. North Restaurant generated considerable excitement when it opened last January in the space previously occupied by Jade Garden. The restaurant has been completely renovated and refurbished. North, like the other new kid on the block in North London, Crave, has become something of a destination restaurant for upscale casual diners from all over the city. Watch for more news about these distinctively different restaurants in a future column. Stratford is still in full swing with the ",!#+&2)!23 "ISTRO #ATERER s (EALTHY 'OURMET "LACKFRIARS WWWBLACKFRIARSBISTROCOM #LOSED 2OOM !VAILABLE "OOK .OW &OR 9OUR (OLIDAY 0ARTY “An oasis for food lovers ...” LUNCH Wed to Fri 11:30-2:30 DINNER from 5pm daily 432 Richmond Street at Carling • London 519 667 0535 www.davidsbistro.ca FREE PARKING AFTER 6 PM OFF QuEENS AVENuE Stratford Festival continuing to help draw crowds despite the strong Canadian dollar taking a bite out of the pocketbooks of American visitors. Many restaurants are reporting that the busiest part of the season seems to have shifted somewhat away from July-August to August-September. Updated Look Fresh New Lunch & Dinner Menus And More ... All in ONE 1 Grosvenor Street London ON N6A 1Y2 519-434-5149 www.onerestaurant.ca james@onerestaurant.ca Plenty FREE PAR of KIN See ba G cover for ck MAP The Only On King 172 King Street • London 519.936.2064 www.theonlyonking.ca Reservations Recommended The term “100-Mile Diet” was created in 2005 by Vancouver’s James MacKinnon and Alisa Smith. They chronicled their one-year experiment, eating only food that was grown or produced within 100 miles of their apartment. Challenging the statistic that North American food typically travels 1,500 miles from farm to table, their project was initially inspired by a foraged meal they ate at a remote wilderness cabin in northern British Columbia. In April 2006, they founded the 100-Mile Diet Society, hoping to maintain the momentum of interest after media attention ranging from the BBC to Utne Reader persuaded them they had tapped into the collective consciousness. In the first few months, they garnered thousands of members (“100-Milers”) pledging to eat local foods (“100-Mile Meals”) across North America. In fall 2006, they developed a 100-Mile Thanksgiving campaign, garnering support from Treehugger.com, Local Harvest, the National Farmers Union, Locavores and many Slow Food conviviums in North America. The 100-Mile Diet: A Year of Local Eating, an evocative account of James’ and Alisa’s experience, has created a significant dietary trend, encouraging communities to eat locally and seasonally, while thinking globally. On September 23rd, Stratford and St. Marys fêted the September equinox (marking the start of autumn) with the third annual Common Ground Culinary Festival at McCully’s Hill Farm in St. Marys. The event united the area’s gifted chefs with local producers, culinary artisans and farmers. A fundraiser supporting the McCully Centre for Rural Learning, the event is co-sponsored by the Stratford, St. Marys and Perth County tourist associations. Guests spent the afternoon sampling and sipping the local cuisine amidst soothing jazz music in a protected country meadow. Participants included Paul Finkelstein and his culinary class from the Food Network’s new series “Fink,” as well as restaurants (in no specific order): Pazzo Ristorante, Woolfy’s at Wildwood, Bijou, Smith & Latham, Foster’s Inn, Asie, Mollet’s Designer Desserts and the Stone Willow Inn. Producers included Ann Slater’s Fresh Organic Vegetables, Monforte Dairy, Maryanne Jones, Blanbrook Bison Farm, Rock Glen Fruit Farm, Fieldstone Farm, Gentle Rain Natural Foods, Organic Meadow, Neubrand Country Produce, August Harvest, Perth Pork Products, Pannifer’s of Sebringville, Shakespeare Pies, Country Side Poultry Products, Sheldon Berry Farm and Megens Family Farm. Beverages were served by the Stratford Brewing Company, Balzac’s Coffee and Cave Springs Cellars. Anita Stewart, gastronome and culinary activist, founder of Cuisine Canada, support a student chef Shape the future of Canada’s culinary scene by contributing to the Stratford Chefs School Scholarship Fund. Your generosity gives you a tax receipt for the full amount of the donation, and will benefit a student with demonstrated financial need. Donations can be made online by visiting the “Members & Donors” section at www.stratfordchef.on.ca Stratford Chefs School Telephone 519 271 1414 68 Nile Street, Stratford, ON Canada N5A 4C5 30 always more online @ eatdrinkmag.net author of The Flavours of Canada and CBC “Fresh Air” contributor, reported that she felt that this relatively new annual event surpassed the well-celebrated Feast of Fields on Vancouver Island that she had attended the previous week. According to spokesperson Amédé Lamarche, The Church Restaurant’s Executive Chef who was profiled in this magazine last month, “The Common Ground festival is a wonderful opportunity for chef/producer relationship building, to help us all work towards more eco-friendly and sustainable cooking. The 100-mile menu is a perfect platform to push our community’s professional kitchens to explore outside of their usual non-local suppliers and to force them to explore and understand the true concept of seasonality.” In the spirit of the 100-mile diet menu movement, and to celebrate Stratford’s culinary leadership and excellence, a number of Stratford chefs have agreed to take on “The 100-Mile Challenge.” For the issue three • october 2007 month of October, they will create menus using only ingredients sourced within 100 miles of Stratford. The challenge will be not to use olive oil, as the closest supplier is in California, and salt and flour must be sourced locally. Fortunately, the 100 miles around Stratford provide a wide range of food to meet the challenge and stimulate our culinary geniuses. Fish from Lakes Erie, Huron and Ontario, local organic pork, beef, Niagara wines, local Stratford pilsner, artisanal sheep milk cheese and orchard fruits and vegetables provide a wide selection of local ingredients. Stratford dining patrons will now be eating the freshest food that has travelled the least possible distance. Participants are: Bijou, The Church, Down the Street, Foster’s Inn, Fellini’s, The Old Prune and Pazzo Ristorante. For further details on the chefs, local producers and sample menus, please visit www.fallforstratford.com. Jambalaya isJump-upWorldCuisine Speaking of Fink, Paul Finkelstein’s new — From MILD to WILD Vegan Selections available 646 Richmond Street, London 519-858-2000 www.jambalayarestaurant.com Katafnéa Ka “A little out of the way, A lot out of the ordinary!” 519-455-9005 Lunch 11 to 3 (7 days a week) Dinner 5 to 10 (Wed to Sun) Breakfast 9 to 12 (Sat & Sun) 2530 Blair Rd, London Diamond Flight Centre 31 october 2007 • issue three always more online @ eatdrinkmag.net TV show got off to a promising start October 2. The show chronicles the chef/ teacher’s work with an eclectic blend of young people, the Culinary Club at Stratford’s Northwestern Secondary School. On late because of occasionally salty language, the show was signed up for a second batch of episodes even before airing. infused equally with information and wit. The food, with it’s fusing of Far Eastern flavours and techniques on a classical French base, is receiving rave reviews. Karen Hartwick of Tea Leaves Tea Tasting Bar, who has also consulted with Rundles, has helped Asie pair appropriate teas with the cuisine. Revel Caffe is the newest indie coffee place in Stratford and opened this past July. They only serve Fair-Trade direct coffees. London roaster Las Chicas Del Café, who markets coffees that can stand on the three legs of sustainability (social, environmental and economic justice), have developed an espresso for owner Andrew Kim Morrow and his new Asie restaurant McGorman’s selection of high quality traare generating a lot of buzz this month. ditional espresso-based drinks. Strong word-of-mouth is bringing plenty of folks to Asie. Kim’s gregarious nature The coordinators of Upstairs at Loblaws and strong personality works well in his and Upstairs at the Superstore, Mies intimate and serene locale. For those who Bervoets, Maya Clarke, Rebecca McInlove a chef to explain a dish to his tosh, Christine Scheer and Barbara patrons, you’ll find each presentation is Toomer, are all local culinary luminaries Raja, Stratford’s Indian fine dining spot, is getting recommendations from local restaurateurs. Reports are that the food is good and Raja fits well as an “ethnic” alternative to some of the best restaurants in town. It is “upscale” Indian, with a smart traditional décor and good ambience. “ We are indeed much more than what we eat, but what we eat can nevertheless help us to be much more than what we are. trü restaurant ” Free Parking Every Day 45 King St. London, Ontario 519-672-4333 www.trurestaurant.ca 32 always more online @ eatdrinkmag.net issue three • october 2007 who are offering a diverse range of affordable cooking classes this fall at their respective locations. Of particular note is chef and cooking instructor Zakia Haskouri, formerly of the London Casbah, who will be teaching Moroccan Cooking Classes in the current program. Haskouri is a chef’s chef, a tireless advocate of Slow Food and a fundraiser for many worthwhile causes. Her courses include Secrets of the Moroccan Spice Kitchen, An Evening in Marrakech and a Royal Moroccan Feast. Tequila! London’s Only Tequila Bar · The Top of the Line Brands · Over 20 Blue Agave Tequilas Si Señor, London’s new authentic Mexican restaurant, will be opening in the former Murano location around the middle of October. Owners Susan Anderson and Enrique “Frankie” Orozco have completely revamped the interior and it looks warm and inviting. Patrón Añejo Although already open, O zone Organics is celebrating its official Grand Opening on October 13 at its Hyde Park and Fanshawe Park Roads location. Watch for more about this interesting “fast food” concept in a future column. Don’t forget to be part of creating the buzz. Email interesting culinary news to me at: blavery@muranocooks.com UNDER THE VOLCANO fresh mexican grill & tapas lounge BRYAN LAVERY is a writer, a founding member of Slow Food London, a proponent of the Endangered Fish Alliance and a veteran of the restaurant scene. As the former chef/owner of the 10-year-old Murano restaurant, he recently decided to shift his focus to various other interests and new food-related projects, including penning this column. Richmond & Piccadilly 519-435-1197 www.iloveunderthevolcano.com “Exquisite Artistic Elegant Catering” A personalized approach to Weddings, Dinner Parties, Corporate Events, etc. Thinking of remodelling your kitchen? Why not remodel your mortgage? Have you dreamed about renovating your kitchen or bath, or constructing a major addition? At some point, the question "What about the money?" enters your thoughts, and you pause. Borrowing for these projects can be expensive – higher interest rates and extra monthly payments deter many plans. At The Mortgage Store, we have helped thousands realize their dream of improving their home for more than 15 years. We tailor make our solutions to each of our customers, taking the time required to explore the various options available in financing. And assessing your individual circumstances, we look at how your project can be completed in the most affordable way. Tim and Julie recently came to us with a problem. They wanted to put in a new kitchen that they estimated would cost about $35,000. Their bank told them they couldn't afford another loan. Their home is worth $280,000 and they were paying about $1500 per month on their first mortgage of $250,000. We found a way to refinance their mortgage, and guess what? Their payments are staying virtually the same. With their brand new kitchen decked out with gorgeous new cabinets, hardwood flooring, a built-in oven and granite counter tops, Tim and Julie put the finishing touches on a home they love. Tim and Julie now are recommending us to their friends and neighbours. Call us today for a consultation on how we can find the best financial solution for you. Make your dream a reality. The MORTGAGE Store Appointments Available 8:00 am - 10:00 pm 301 Wellington Road South, London (West side, 2 blocks N of Baseline) 978 Bently Street Mount Forest 2055 Dundas St E, Unit 102 Mississauga 519-642-0428 519-323-4332 905-282-9009 www.themortgagestore.ca 34 always more online @ eatdrinkmag.net issue three • october 2007 BEER Autumn Leaves,Fest Beers and Long Dark Lagers By The Malt Monk alking the dog the other day, I saw brilliant patches of golden and red maple leaves fringing the green on the trees. Unlike the dude on the Leon’s commercial, this early reminder of summer’s end and cooler weather ahead didn’t send me into paranoid shock. For me, the thought of fall conjures pictures of harvest celebrations and fest halls filled with steaming food and rich bready fest beer. This puts a knowing grin on my mug while I walk the brisk fall morning among those unfortunates who dread the cold to come. I know the season holds rich fest beer and dark warming delights from craft brewers. other airborne micro-organisms, or how these would sour or infect beer; they just knew that summer brewing was hit and miss with sour off-tastes the result. So they brewed in late fall and winter. In March, for the last brew of the season, they doubled up on the malts to bring up the alcohol a bit so it would last and mellow slowly in cool cave-stored barrels during the summer and be ready for consumption in the fall, when harvest festivals were happening. This “Märzen” fall fest beer tradition was the motivator for a new rich, redamber lager that Munich master brewer and malter Josef Sedlmayr first brewed in 1872. The first regular batch was made in March, lagered until September and was Oktoberfest Origins ready in time for the Oktoberfest. It was an Being a native of Canada’s largest Ger- instant sensation and became the signamanic community, I became aware of the ture drink of the Munich fall festival. tradition and trappings of The Genre Oktoberfest early in life. Oktoberfest märzen is There is enough info usually dark copper-gold available on this 197-yearto deep orange-red in old Munich fall festival colour, with bright clarity (also celebrated in Kitchand a solid puffy off-white ener-Waterloo), that I cap. The traditional brewneedn’t take up space ing guidelines describe a rehashing it here. Instead, robust lager at 5.2–6% let’s get to the core of the alcohol by volume (ABV ), Oktoberfest celebration: The Märzen fest beer. bottom-fermented and German “Märzenbier” cold lagered for at least 60 days, with pronounced is a reminder that March malt flavours from Vienna (Märzen) or April was tramalts. A rich German malt ditionally the end of the aroma (like fresh toasted brewing season. Early on, bread crusts). Clean, with German brewers found no fruity esters and low beer could not be cleanly hop aroma. Flavour is inifermented in warm weather months. The air was too full of tially bready-nutty-cereal sweetness, but stray yeasts. They knew little of microbiol- finish is moderately dry. Distinctive and ogy or wild yeast or pollen, bacteria or complex maltiness often includes a very W 35 october 2007 • issue three always more online @ eatdrinkmag.net light nutty-toasted aspect. Hop bitterness is moderate, and usually accented by the German noble hops such as Hallertau and Tettnang. Balance is toward malt, though the finish is not sweet. The best commercial German examples are made by Spaten, HackerPschorr, Paulaner, Hofbrau, Ayinger and Becks. I give you these brands because most are not imported into Ontario, and if you are a dedicated beer geek, you know you will have to go to Premier Gourmet in Buffalo to get these imports. Aecht Schlenkerla Rauchbier Märzen (lcbo 409110) is not a true Oktoberfest Märzen but is the only German märzenbeir imported by the LCBO. This is a true German fest Märzen, but in the Bamberg style, meaning the malts are smoked with beechwood fires departing a rich smoke flavour to the beer. Copper-red in colour, large rocky cap, aroma of toasted malts and smoke. Flavour is mellow bready maltines with a smoke undertone. As beers go, this is king for pairing with oysters, cheese or smoked meats. LCBO Recommended Märzens (Available locally) Availability Key: LCBO = Liquor Control Board of Ontario; TBS = The Beer Store; TAP = On tap at better establishments. It’s a pity that Mill Street’s Oktoberfest Märzen (available on tap and in 2-litre growlers) isn’t more widely distributed on tap. Found only at the Mill Street brewery pub in Toronto’s Old Distillery District and some selected pubs outside the GTA, this is the only locally crafted traditional Oktoberfest märzen in Ontario. It’s bright bronze-red colour, with a distinctive Oktoberfest aroma of bread crust, iron, hints of nuts and caramel. Richly malty, very toasty, with lots of bread crust, it also contains some light smoky toffee notes. Full body, lots of colour, long, complex finish— in terms of flavour and mouth feel, this is the most complete Oktoberfestbier I’ve tasted locally. TAP Amsterdam Brewing’s Oktoberfest (available on tap at select pubs or in bottles at the Brewery) is not a true Oktoberfest but a hybrid Märzen with Rauchbier (smoked beer) character. Copper-red colour. The nose is dominated with a mild smoky mustiness and light nut-bread smells much like a mild rauchbier. The front side is pleasantly malty, slightly sweet. Malt biased, hops sit in the background, medium-light body. TAP The Dark Lager Genre Autumn is the time to come to the dark side, Luke! Both Bavarian Dunkels and Schwarzbiers are dark copper brown to black lager beers. “Dunkel” is German for “dark.” Usually, if you hold the glass to the light, you will see some ruby highlights. Dunkels originated in Munich, Bavaria and were basically lagers made with richer, darker roasted, lightly caramelized malts that depart a dark copper-redbrown hue. This is the oldest classic brown lager style of Bavaria that developed as a darker, malt-accented beer in part because of the moderately carbonated water found there. Dominated by the rich and complex flavour of Munich dark malts, Dunkels usually have an aroma and taste reminiscent of toasted bread crusts. Moderately sweet, but not overwhelming or cloying. Hints of caramel, chocolate, toast or nuttiness can be present in the flavour. Hop bitterness is moderately low but discernible, with the balance tipped firmly towards maltiness. Noble (German variety) hop flavour is low. The aftertaste remains malty, although the hop bitterness may become more apparent in the medium-dry finish. Clean lager character with no fruity ale-like tastes and a toasted nut-like malt pronouncement. Schwarzbier is a little known style that 36 always more online @ eatdrinkmag.net issue three • october 2007 originated and developed its winner. Dark brown colour; unique characteristics in the aromas of roasted nuts, malt region around Kulmbach in and chocolate; rich, full with Frankonian Germany. flavours of caramel, dark “Schwarz” is German for malt and herbs; long rich “black,” so in translation palate with a pleasant bitthis is “black beer.” terness on the finish. TBS / Arguably the oldest European LCBO beer style for which we have hard, historic evidence, “black beer” is a darker, older Selected Schwarzbiers version of the Bavarian Dunkel. Schwarz- Kostritzer Schwarzbier (lcbo 696971) is bier is very opaque whereas dunkel is Germany’s oldest Thuringia-styled black clear. Its colour ranges from solid black to lager and one of the few true malted Geralmost chestnut-red, depending on the man treats imported by the LCBO. Dark brown, stout-like colour; cocoa, malt quantity of black patent malt in the brewer’s grain bill. It produces very and burnt coffee aromas; caramel and mild, almost bittersweet, notes of bitter chocolate tastes, creamy, clean dry finish. LCBO chocolate, coffee, and vanilla. Like Brick Brewing’s Waterloo Dark, most traditional German lagers, from Ontario’s oldest craft brewer, is Schwarzbier has very little nose and a modest, light, easy to approach up-front bitterness and is a very schwarzbier. Light in body but still approachable beer which has affinwith enough dark roast cocoa and ity for a number of foods. toast tones to satisfy the palate. Selected Dunkels Good quenching qualities with a King Dark (lcbo 698399) from the sandwich. TBS / LCBO King Brewery in Nobleton is an Food Pairings award-winning local version of a An Oktoberfest Märzen is a perMunich Dunkel from one of fect companion for all the GerOntario’s best craft brewers. manic fest food like Clear red brown in colour with a thick foamy tan coloured weisswurst, bratwursts and head, with chocolate and tofOktoberfest wursts smothered fee aromas and a light spice. in butter-herbed wine sauerkraut. Fest Märzens are also at The palate is rich and full, home with most light tangy delivering a clean bread-like cheeses and fondue arrays or taste with a hint of toasted bread and pastry based meals. chocolate. Made with Dunkel lagers pair well with imported German dark wild mushroom soup, herbed Munich malts and German schnitzel with Portobello hops. TBS / LCBO hunter sauce, rich venison Great Lakes Brewing’s Black tourtiere or a braised beef Jack lager (lcbo 679621) is a roulade. Dark malty-cocoa Canadianized version of a dunkels also have an affinity dunkel that has won craft brewwith chocolate desserts. ing awards. Dark chestnut brown Schwarzbier compliments oysters and colour; roasted and toasted grain aromas with caramel and oat notes. Hints of shellfish. I love the combination of a plate chocolate, coffee and roasted barley of Kiwi mussels washed down with a emerge in the flavour as it warms. LCBO Kostritzer schwarzbier. For pure affinity, Cameron’s 266 Dark (lcbo 679837) is a I’ve seen nothing like pairing Schlenkerla North American hybrid dunkel. Very smoked märzen with earthy rich German flavourful and another craft beer award cheeses or smoked cold cuts. october 2007 • issue three The Taste of the Month The label on Great Lakes Brewing’s 666 Devil’s Pale Ale (lcbo 615880) says it all: “The Devil Made Me Brew It! Brewed for 66.6 minutes with 666kg of malt and 6.6kg of hops, Devil’s Pale Ale is a robust ale weighing in at 6.6% alcohol (notice a theme yet?). Darker than traditional pale ales, Devil’s Pale Ale has an unmistakable hoppiness both in aroma and taste, balanced by a selection of 6 choice malts.” A great crafted rich copper ale. Seasonal and in limited supply at select LCBOs. LCBO Michael Jackson: The Beer Hunter I want to pay respect to a man all of us in the “real beer revolution” owe a great deal. August 30 saw the passing of one of the giants in the craft brewing writer’s community. Michael Jackson passed on after a long affliction with Parkinson’s Disease, an illness he rarely talked about. Mr. Jackson spent many of his 65 years sharing his passion for artisan beers with the public and was one of the original advocates of the campaign for real ale and the craft brewing renaissance. Mr. Jackson’s educational TV series “The Beer Hunter” (available on VHS and DVD) remains the standard educational tool for entering the world of better beer appreciation. On a personal note, I credit Mr. Jackson’s writings as instrumental in my personal development in appreciating artisan beers. His impact was great and he will be missed. In remembrance, a transnational toast always more online @ eatdrinkmag.net 37 in Michael Jackson’s honour took place on September 30th. But it’s not too late yet to raise a pint to “The Beer Hunter.” Just make sure it’s the real stuff ! “The Malt Monk” is the alter ego of D.R. HAMMOND, an industrial consultant by day and a passionate supporter of craft beer culture in his spare time. A home brewer of many years and an active reviewer and consumer of craft beers for as long as he cares to remember, D.R. can be found anywhere there is a celebration of the traditional craft brewing art and good food. iÌ "ÕÌ v /Üt 5HDO %ULWLVK SXE IRRG H[FHOOHQW VSHFLDOV DQG QR SDUNLQJ IHHV 7U\ WKH DUHD·V RQO\ FDVN FRQGLWLRQHG UHDODOH JUHDW ZLQH OLVW JXHVW GUDIWV SOXV UHJXODU EHHUV RQ GUDIW $OO VHW LQ D \HDUROG EXLOGLQJ ZLWK OLFHQVHG SDWLR ,W·V ZRUWK WKH VKRUW GULYH 7+( .,1* (':$5' ,OGHUWRQ 5RDG ,OGHUWRQ 21 -XVW PLQXWHV 1RUWK RI /RQGRQ 2SHQ DP 'DLO\ ´5HDO )RRG 5HDO $OH 5HDO )ULHQGO\µ ZZZWKHNLQJHGZDUGFRP 38 always more online @ eatdrinkmag.net issue three • october 2007 SEASONAL RECIPES Our Gardens’ Last Hurrah By Christine Scheer ur dinners are becoming a bit more substantial as the weather cools off, and I cherish each vegetable, herb or piece of fruit that comes from the garden, as it just might be the last until next growing season. I am quite enamoured with Ontario garlic this fall. I can’t seem to get enough of its pungent flavour, so I’ve used it in the classic sauce aioli, which can be the perfect centre of a crudité platter, or a memorable side to grilled meat or vegetables. Fall raspberries are just too delectable not to use, so they pair up with traditional fall apple pie to make a homey dessert suitable for company. Enjoy this last glorious hurrah of the garden! O Thyme-Crusted Roast Pork Tenderloin 2 pork tenderloin, about 1 lb each 3 Tbsp (45 mL) Dijon mustard 3 Tbsp (45 mL) grainy Dijon mustard 3 Tbsp (45 mL) maple syrup 1 tsp (5 mL) salt 2 tsp (10 mL) cracked peppercorns 1½ cups (375 mL) chopped fresh thyme Aioli Aioli is simply garlic mayonnaise. It goes with almost anything, and makes a fantastic accompaniment to the pork tenderloin. Don’t like the thought of raw eggs? You can substitute ½ cup (60 mL) mayonnaise for the eggs, and omit the oil. 2 eggs 4 cloves garlic, peeled 1 tsp Dijon mustard ¼ tsp salt ½ cup oil – canola, sunflower, safflower, or “light” olive oil chopped parsley 1 Break the eggs into the bowl of a food processor. Add the garlic, mustard, and salt. Process until smooth and creamy. 2 With the food processor running, slowly drizzle in the oil through the tube of the food processor. When the oil has all been added it will look thick, smooth and shiny. 3 Serve sprinkled with parsley. 1 Heat oven to 375° F (18 ° C). Trim all excess fat and silver skin from pork. Set aside. 2 In a small bowl, combine the mustards with the maple syrup, salt, and peppercorns. Sprinkle thyme into a shallow dish. Brush the mustard mixture all over the pork, and then roll pork in thyme, coating it fairly evenly. 3 Place pork on rack in roasting pan. Place in oven and roast for approximately 30 minutes, or until pork is just slightly pink inside. You can cook it longer if you don’t like any pink. 4 Let pork rest on a cutting board for 10 minutes before slicing it. Serve with aioli on the side. 39 october 2007 • issue three always more online @ eatdrinkmag.net Ratatouille Red Potato Mash ¼ cup (60 mL) olive oil 1½ cups (375 mL) zucchini, chopped 1 red pepper, seeded and diced 1 red onion, chopped, about 1½ cups (375 mL) 4 cloves garlic, minced ½ tsp (10 mL) salt ½ tsp (10 mL) black pepper 1 lb (450 g) fresh plum tomatoes, chopped 1 5.5 oz (156 mL) tin tomato paste 1 Tbsp (15 mL) dried basil 1 Tbsp (15 mL) dried oregano 1 eggplant, peeled and cut into 1-inch (2-3 cm) cubes, about 6 cups (1.5 L) ½ cup (125 mL) fresh basil, minced 5 lbs (2.5 kg) red potatoes, washed but not peeled, cut into quarters 1/3 cup (60 mL) extra virgin olive oil ¼ cup (60 mL) butter Salt and pepper, to taste 1 bunch green onions, chopped 1 2 Heat the oven to 350 ° F (180 ° C). Pour the olive oil into a large ovenproof pan set over high heat. Stir in the zucchini, red pepper, red onion, and garlic. Sauté for 5 minutes. Stir in the salt, pepper, tomatoes, tomato paste, basil, oregano, and eggplant. Remove from the heat. Cover the pan with a lid and bake in the oven for 30 minutes. Remove the ratatouille from the oven, stir in the fresh basil. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and serve. Serves six to eight. alway s mo re o n l i n e 1 Bring a large pot of water to the boil; add about 2 tsp of salt. Scoop the potatoes into the boiling water, and let cook until fork-tender. Drain the potatoes, return them to the pot, and place on the burner for about 60 seconds, so any excess water will boil off. 2 Remove potatoes from heat, add the olive oil and butter to the pan. Coarsely mash the potatoes, you want lots of texture, so don’t over-do it! With a spatula, fold in the salt and pepper. 3 Serve sprinkled with green onions. Serves eight. CHRISTINE SCHEER is a chef who lives on an organic farm with her husband and two daughters. She has cooked for London area restaurants, owned a catering business, written a Covent Garden Market cookbook, taught many cooking classes and currently runs the Oakridge Superstore cooking school. Her passions include using seasonal, local ingredients to create delicious fare, and teaching children how to cook. Reach Christine at: dolwayorganicgarden@sympatico.ca Online, CHRISTINE SCHEER shares a great recipe that deliciously completes the above autumn meal suggestion. “Apple and Fall Raspberry Tart,” large enough to serve 8-12, is just a click away! 40 always more online @ eatdrinkmag.net issue three • october 2007 TRAVEL Carnival in Limoux By Ann McColl Lindsay aris greeted us with its lowest temperature in 100 years. We had to skid our suitcases over the icy sidewalks from the hotel to the Gare de Lyon. Striking workers meant a three-hour wait before the train left the freezing platform for Montpellier on the warm Mediterranean. Our final destination was an ancient stone house in the village of Caunes-Minervois at the base of the Montaigne Noire in Languedoc. It turned out to be as cold as it sounded. Our landlord, Paul, invited us over for a welcome-to-Caunes drink and some orientation tips to the area. Spirits lifted as the tray of flutes filled with a local sparkling wine was passed. “This is delicious,” I said. “But I didn’t know that Champagne was considered local.” “You’re not drinking Champagne,” Paul replied. “This is Blanquette de Limoux, a methode ancestrale that the monks say predates the more famous sparkler by 200 years.” Then he gave more interesting P Blanquette de Limoux predates Champagne, the more famous sparkling wine, by 200 years. Pierrots approached with handfuls of confetti. news. “You’re here at the right time to enjoy the fête de Limoux, a carnaval not to be missed.” On the next Sunday afternoon, following Paul’s instructions, we drove through the medieval walled town of Carcassonne, across the Canal du Midi and took the secondary D118 road south to Limoux. Any route through Languedoc weaves past ruined Cathar castles, vineyards and farms. But on this drive, we glimpsed the white-capped Pyrenees Mountains in the distance, fringed by an orange sky, with the sun about to start its descent. Not much seemed to be happening on the quiet narrow lanes that lead toward the Place de la Republique. No crowds, no tacky souvenir booths, no street vendors or loudspeakers. The first sign of gaiety was a group of men in pink tutus drinking at a small café. Encouraged, we continued on to the main square where small knots of locals stood about with an air of expectancy. The Place itself was worth a detour. On each of the four sides, 1FSTPOBM 4FSWJDF (SFBU 1SJDFT 411½ Hamilton Road, London At the corner of Rectory • Plenty of Free Parking 519-439-8851 Sun-Fri 11-8; Sat 3-8; Sunday Brunch 11-3 7JTJU 0VS 4IPXSPPN BU 6OJU $MBSLF 3E -POEPO BU 5SBGBMHBS XXXKVTUnPPSTXBSFIPVTFDPN *UST &LOORS 7AREHOUSE 42 always more online @ eatdrinkmag.net handsome brasseries opened their brasstrimmed doors onto the columned arcades that surround the square. Normally, the weekly market is held in the centre around the ornate verdigris fountain, but on this day, glasses of Blanquette were being issue three • october 2007 characterizations of local characters, foreign diplomats or the town council, always come next in the parade. Protected behind their disguise, they whisper secrets into the crowd. After they passed, the woman next to me blushed and said to her neighbour, “He knows about me going out with your brother.” We danced with them around to the Le Commerce Café and ordered two flutes of sparkling Blanquette. As we held up our glasses for an encore, the miniature harlequin appeared in the café door, followed by the entire troupe, who showered the room in buckets of white confetti. The scene became surreal when the tubas and cymbals mingled with us at the bar, still playing their instruments. The peanut vendor squeezed between them to sell The ancient Limoux festival is us a bag. This scenario is repeated at a repeated every weekend from January to Palm Sunday. leisurely pace in each of the other cafés around the square until the poured under a large tent. Well done so far. torches are lit at nine o’clock. The men of By five o’clock, the crowds were three the town prepare these torches of straw deep under all four arcades and distant and resin from a secret recipe handed musical murmurings suggested that the down through the generations. They are magic was about to start. An exquisitely calculated to burn for exactly two hours. dressed group of masked pierrots, led by a The entire procedure is repeated every child identically dressed in black and weekend from January to Palm Sunday, white satin, slowly danced down the nar- when the king, a stuffed dummy set in the row opening between the two lines of spectators. They directed the hypnotic music of the brass band behind them with the graceful gestures of their white gloved hands waving long supple wands, called carèbena. Ritualistic movements and benign smiling white masks cast a spell, broken as they approached with handfuls of confetti to stuff inside your clothing. The sacks of confetti represent grain thrown by the millers who inaugurated the festival centuries ago as an invocation for a bountiful harvest. The Chamber of Commerce did not dream all this up as a promo- The brass band slips through a tion. It is rooted in folklore following narrow pathway between spectators prescribed rules and procedures. For but continues playing as they later instance, the goudils, burlesque mingle at the bar. middle of the square, is burned along with masks and wands. It all reminded us of the ancient sun festivals held to encourage spring and the renewal of the grape and the grain. As a matter of fact, we noticed that it did warm up considerably in our corner of Languedoc after the burning of the straw king. ANN MCCOLL LINDSAY is a London-based writer and an inveterate world traveller with her painter/photographer husband David Lindsay. For three decades, they owned and operated Ann McColl’s Kitchen Shop, still fondly remembered as a fine example of how to blend commerce and culture. They recently published Store Animals, a charmingly written and illustrated account of the animals who played an important role in the life of the business. Profits will benefit the London Humane Society. Have a gastronomic travel story to tell? Whether it’s a daytrip to a local gem or a transcontinental adventure, the focus must be on food and drink. Send your story (400-1000 words) to: editor@eatdrinkmag.net. Winning entries will receive a $50 gift certificate from a great restaurant! “A delightfully charming story for animal lovers of all ages.” by Ann & David Lindsay David and Ann Lindsay owned and operated Ann McColl’s Kitchen Shop with the help of their animal friends in London Ontario from 1969 to 2002. Available at: The Oxford Book Shop Ltd. 740 Richmond Street, London ON N6A 1L6 519-438-8336 $9.95 Sales benefit The London Humane Society Southwestern Ontario’s Largest Selection Over 100 Quartz & Granite Colours & Patterns! Forest City Custom Counter Tops 519-691-0303 Visit Our Showroom 100 Belmont Drive, Unit 8, London (At Wharncliffe Road S, across from Ray Cullen) Mon-Fri 9-5 • Sat 10-2 www.forestcitycustomcountertops.com 44 always more online @ eatdrinkmag.net The Best Products You’ll Never See issue three • october 2007 Acrylic: Clear to Your Needs Acrylic display products give your retail areas a professional and organized look. Acrylic display risers can add interest to retail product displays. Acrylic vertical and slant frames are perfect to hold promotional flyers and messages and can be easily changed for each season or sale. Keeping menus and other literature in neat and easily accessible areas is a snap with acrylic holders. Clean up the clutter in service areas by utilizing acrylic counter stands and wall racks. Pastry Display Case This is just one example of what we can do for you in acrylic. We custom fabricate our products to suit your specific need. The only limit is imagination! Granton Plastics We Make What We Sell All our acrylic products are high quality for durability and long term usage. Invest in display items to help make your retail products fly off the shelves. Got an idea? We can do it! Call for a free estimate. 1673 Richmond St., Suite 301 London ON N6G 2N3 Tel: 519 520 1270 Fax: 519 850 0521 www.grantonplastics.com mark@grantonplastics.com 3TRESS 2ELIEF 2ELAXING !QUA -ASSAGE &ULL 2ANGE OF %STHETIC 3ERVICES 7ALKINS 7ELCOME 2ICHMOND SOUTH OF 1UEENS WWWAQUAMASSAGELONDONCA Field Gate Organics is an organic farming community made up of 30 family farms working together to market and distribute certified organic foods for better health and a cleaner environment, at competitive prices. Covent Garden Market, 130 King St., London Mon to Sat: 8am-6pm • Sun: 11am-4pm 519-679-9998 www.fieldgateorganics.ca Enjoy the lifestyle you deserve. Look for Field Gate Organics. always more online @ eatdrinkmag.net october 2007 • issue three 45 MIXOLOGY Catch a Fallen Angel From Robinson Hall Bar & Grill e went to Robinson Hall Bar & Grill this month, a popular spot for lunch and a drink after work, and it attracts a lot of concert-goers and the pre- and post-game hockey crowds. The dark woods and wrought iron are set off with soft lighting and numerous TVs tuned to a variety of sports channels. On Friday and Saturday nights, The Thorny Devil bar and lounge upstairs features dancing and a more up-tempo vibe. W Recipe courtesy of Robinson Hall Bar & Grill The Fallen Angel 1½ oz Tanqueray London Dry Gin 2 dashes White Crème de Menthe Juice of ½ lime 1 dash Fee’s Old Fashion Bitters 1 cherry for garnish Shake all the ingredients (except for the cherry) with ice and strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Drop in the cherry and serve. We spoke with General Manager Scot Crawford, who gave us the recipe for “The ROBINSON HALL BAR & GRILL is located at 398 Talbot Fallen Angel,” a popular cocktail these Street in London (www.robinsonhall.ca). It’s generally days. “More women prefer the drink than closed Sunday to Tuesday, unless there is an event at the men,” noted Scot, “but it’s also popular at John Labatt Centre. upstairs, THE THORNY DEVIL is open The Thorny Devil in the form of a shooter. Friday and Saturday nights. Maybe it’s the name!” YOUR COUNTERTOP SPECIALISTS Countertops By MB Fast Turnaround Time Delivery • Installation 519-659-3838 1490 Hamilton Road, unit 2 46 always more online @ eatdrinkmag.net issue three • october 2007 THE LIGHTER SIDE Small Talk: Dining with Children By Cecilia Buy il and water, plaids and stripes. Some combinations were never meant to be, including, in the opinion of some, children and restaurants. And small wonder, if the children in question are of the “free range” variety, allowed to roam at will, uninhibited by the restrictions of social convention. But ours are not like that, of course, and properly prepared we can enjoy dining out, without causing any discomfort to our fellow bon vivants. Most of us enjoy eating away from home, and children are no exception. We are relieved of the mundanities of preparation and cleaning up, enjoy the change of venue and menu and the sense of occasion. Even our everyday companions, transported from our habitual environment, often seem more interesting and agreeable. But like blending eggs and oil in producing a palatable mayonnaise, mixing children and restaurants requires that you follow certain procedures. After a few attempts, you will be able to do it with ease and confidence. One caveat, though: do not presume that your childless acquaintances will enjoy sharing these experiences with you. A few pointers: Start ’em young, and keep it short. Adults don’t generally eat before going out to eat. This does not apply with babies. A well-fed (and freshly-diapered) infant is a happy infant, one who will be content to survey a novel environment with gurgles of interest and amusement, instead of cries of discontent. For Baby’s early outings, consider a café or bistro rather than a five-star restaurant. The atmosphere is more casual, and the staff less apt to tell you on sight that, regretfully, they have no available seating. While you savour your Chardonnay, Baby can quaff from his drinking cup (with which you have, of course, come equipped) and jaw on a bread stick. Twenty minutes, perhaps, and you both O emerge refreshed, your pleasure in each other’s company reinforced. Teach toddler table manners. If you cannot yet dine with civility at your own table, don’t even consider taking your child to any establishment where unsuspecting members of the public might be enjoying themselves. But when you have mastered the basics (correct use of cutlery and napkins, mealtime conversation, and asking to be excused before leaving the table), then you are ready for the next step: Casual Dining. Do your child the courtesy of informing them in advance of what to expect in terms of cuisine and procedure. And keep in mind that the best-raised child can go amok, usually when you least desire it. For this reason, “child-friendly” establishments are a wise choice in the initial stages. Go equipped into battle. For the first few months of Baby’s existence, you don’t step out the door without being fully armed, i.e. diaper bag and accoutrements. Likewise, restauranting with older children requires packing supplies. Provide diversions. Books of course are acceptable, as are paper and pens, and small toys. Please leave at home toys that come with their own noise. Expand the repertoire. By all means, encourage in your child a willingness to be venturesome with the victuals, but don’t push it. The experience should be for their pleasure as well as edification, and it’s a safe bet that long before they are grown up, they will have moved beyond hamburgers and pasta. One last tip, from my child to yours. “If they serve you hors d’oeuvres or cake, you’re allowed to use your fingers.” CECILIA BUY is a mother, writer and designer who has enjoyed living and dining in London for the past 17 years. Her son is an adventurous and discerning dining companion. GAMMAGE FLOWERS AND CHOCOLATES by BERNARD CALLEBAUT Put Them Together OXFORD at WATERLOO • LONDON 519-438-4114 Updated Look Fresh New Lunch & Dinner Menus And More ... All in ONE 4U +BNFT 4U 4ZEFOIBN 4U 09'03% 45 4U (FPSHF 4U (SPTWFOPS 4U $PMMFHF "WF 3*$).0/% 45 www.onerestaurant.ca james@onerestaurant.ca 1MFOUZ PG 'SFF 1BSLJOH &OUFS Põ 4U +BNFT PS 4U (FPSHF 5BMCPU 4U 1 Grosvenor Street London ON N6A 1Y2 519-434-5149 Perfect for Weddings, Inside & Out october 2007 • issue three WEB1 RESTAURANTS More from Woolfy’s at Wildwood Recipe courtesy of Chris Woolf Baked Stuffed Lemon Fondu with Basil PeR PeRSOn, you need: 1 large lemon 1 cherry tomato basil 2 oz Saganaki cheese, grated Pita bread, toasted 1 Cut a lemon in half length-ways and scoop out the flesh with a spoon. 2 Place a small amount of grated cheese in bottom of lemon. Place a cherry tomato cut in half and some chopped basil. Cover with more cheese to overflowing. 3 Bake in a moderate oven or under the broiler until cheese has melted. 4 Serve with toasted pita bread to dip into the hot cheese. WEB2 issue three • october 2007 BOOKS More from Lucy’s Kitchen Recipes courtesy of Lucy Waverman, Lucy’s Kitchen: Signature Recipes and Culinary Secrets (Random House Canada Ltd, 2006) Oeufs en Cocotte Brownie Pudding 4 eggs 2 Tbsp butter 6 oz (175 g) mixed mushrooms, sliced 4 cups baby spinach 1 cup whipping cream Salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 drops truffle oil 1 cup all-purpose flour 2⁄3cup cocoa 1 tsp baking powder ½ tsp salt 6 Tbsp butter ½ cup chopped bittersweet chocolate 2 eggs 1 cup granulated sugar ½ cup milk 1 tsp vanilla ½ cup brown sugar 11⁄3cups boiling water 1 Preheat oven to 300 F. 2 Break eggs into four buttered 1-cup ramekins. Place a tiny knob of butter on each egg. 3 Place ramekins in a deep baking dish large enough to hold all ramekins. Fill baking dish with boiling water until it comes halfway up sides of ramekins. Place baking dish in oven and bake eggs for 8 to 10 minutes, or until egg yolks are just set but still runny. (Eggs will continue to cook after sauce has been added.) 4 Prepare sauce while eggs are cooking. Heat remaining butter in a large skillet over high heat. Add mushrooms and sauté for about 3 minutes, or until just cooked. Add spinach and cook for 1 minute, or just until spinach wilts. 1 Preheat oven to 350 F. 2 Sift flour, 1⁄3cup cocoa, baking powder and salt into a bowl. 3 Melt butter and chocolate in a small heavy pot over low heat. Remove from heat and cool slightly. 4 Whisk eggs, granulated sugar, milk and vanilla in a bowl until well combined. Add melted chocolate mixture and flour mixture and stir until batter is just combined. 5 Spread batter evenly in a greased 8-inch square baking pan. 5 Add cream to skillet and bring to a boil. Season with salt and pepper and add a drop or two of truffle oil. 6 Whisk remaining 1⁄3 cocoa powder, brown sugar and boiling water in a bowl. Pour mixture over batter. 6 Spoon mushroom mixture over eggs. Remove from water bath and serve at once. 7 Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, or until a tester comes out clean but cake still has a little wiggle. Do not overbake. Serves 6. WEB3 october 2007 • issue three WINE More about Superfoods Recipe courtesy of Shari Darling Here’s a healthy pumpkin soup to warm you during the cool autumn evenings, with matching wines. Enjoy! Curried Pumpkin Soup 2 Tbsp (25 mL) olive oil 2 cloves garlic, chopped 1 medium onion, chopped 2 stalks celery, cut into 2-inch lengths 3 large carrots, peeled and sliced ¼-inch (6 mm) thick 2 lbs (1 kg) pumpkin, peeled, seeded, and cut into 1-inch (2.5 cm) dice 3 cups (750 mL) low-salt chicken stock 1 bay leaf 2 tsp (10 mL) curry powder 1 tsp (5 mL) turmeric sea salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste ¼ cup (50 mL) shelled raw pumpkin seeds 2 Tbsp (25 mL) chopped fresh parsley fat free sour cream (for garnish) 3 Meanwhile, in a small sauté pan, over medium heat, heat remaining 1 Tbsp (15 mL) oil. Add pumpkin seeds and season with salt. Fry, shaking pan, until seeds are golden. Remove from heat. 4 Fold parsley into vegetables and broth. In a food processor or blender, add 2 cups (500 mL) of vegetables and broth. Puree until smooth. Stir smooth mixture back into pan. Adjust seasonings. 5 Place soup in bowls garnished with a dollop of sour cream and pumpkin seeds. Serves Four 1 2 In a large pan over medium heat, heat 1 Tbsp (15 mL) oil. Add the garlic and onion and sauté, stirring occasionally, until onion is translucent, about 6 minutes. Add celery and carrots. Sauté for 5 more minutes. Add pumpkin, chicken stock, bay leaf, curry, turmeric, salt, and pepper to taste. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and let simmer until vegetables are tender, about 10 minutes. WiNE SUGGESTiON: California Zinfandel or Australian Shiraz. Choose a red wine with soft tannin (bitterness) and lots of ripe berry flavour. The soft tannin will not contrast with the curry spice. Its high alcohol gives the wine enough weight to match the weight of pumpkin. Its fruitiness also pairs nicely with the subtle sweetness in pumpkin. WEB4 issue three • october 2007 SEASONAL RECIPES More from Our Gardens’ Last Hurrah Recipe courtesy of Christine Scheer Apple and Fall Raspberry Tart Using puff pastry really speeds up the making of this tart. You can also substitute your own favourite tart pastry if you’d like. 1 pkg frozen puff pastry dough, 2 sheets, thawed 6 apples, peeled and sliced (try northern Spy, Spartan, Red Delicious, Ida Red) 1 Tbsp (15 mL) fresh lemon juice 1 cup (250 mL) granulated sugar 2 Tbsp (30 mL) all purpose flour 1 tsp (5 mL) cinnamon 2 cups (500 mL) fresh raspberries (you can use frozen, just keep them frozen) 2 Tbsp (30 mL) cream 2 Tbsp (30 mL) coarse sugar, such as demerara Streusel: ½ cup (125 mL) all purpose flour ½ cup (125 mL) rolled oats ½ cup (125 mL) brown sugar ½ cup (125 mL) butter, cubed 1 Make streusel first: combine all ingredients in bowl of food processor. Pulse until mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Set aside. 2 Heat oven to 375° F (180° C). Lay out 1 sheet of puff pastry into either a nonstick rimmed baking sheet (approximately 9x13 inches), or a rectangular removable bottom flan pan (recommended). Roll or press out pastry to fit pan with a bit of an overhang. 3 In a large bowl, stir together the apples with the lemon juice, granulated sugar, flour and cinnamon. Scoop onto puff pastry-lined pan. Sprinkle with raspberries. 4 Sprinkle streusel over fruit. Cut remaining piece of puff pastry into 1 cm-wide strips. Place strips alternately on top of streusel, creating a “woven” look. Brush strips of pastry with cream, and then sprinkle with coarse sugar. 5 Place in oven and bake for approximately 30 minutes, until apples are tender and pastry is puffed and golden. Beware! This tart tends to over-flow, so place a larger baking sheet on the bottom rack of your oven to catch the drips—it can be messy! Makes 1 tart, serves 8-12.