MerinoPerformTM - The Woolmark Company

MerinoPerform
TM
We are the global authority
on Merino wool
Merino is one of the world’s most
technically advanced fibres,
with unique moisture & temperature
regulation properties
The Woolmark Company is a not-for-profit enterprise driving
the research, development and marketing of Australian wool.
Owned by more than 25,000 Australian woolgrowers, we invest
along the global supply chain for Australian Merino wool – from
woolgrowers through to retailers – to promote Merino wool’s
position as the premier natural fibre.
We can provide to
our business partners
marketing resources
technical innovations
sourcing opportunities
a Merino wool related
knowledge base
We have strong partnerships
with the global supply chain for
Australian Merino wool, including:
designers
retailers
brands
garment manufacturers
knitters
weavers
processors
woolgrowers
We own and license the Woolmark logo
The Woolmark brand - The Woolmark logo is one of the world’s most recognised
textile symbols and respected brands. In 2011, the logo was selected as the No.1
“top logo of all time” by Creative Review magazine.
The Woolmark logo on a product provides consumers with an assurance of quality.
To feature the Woolmark logo, the garment must contain 100% pure new wool and
meet strict quality and fabric performance criteria.
Over 2 billion garments have carried the prestigious logo since its creation in 1964.
In addition to the Woolmark brand, we offer brands for blends. The Woolmark
Blend logo indicates that the product contains 50%-99% wool. The Wool Blend logo
indicates that the product contains 30%-49% wool.
Merino
A Natural Fibre
Today, Australia enjoys a global reputation as one of the most
scientifically advanced wool growing countries in the world.
Australian Merino wool is regarded by many as the finest and
softest wool produced globally.
Australia is the global “home of Merino”, supplying over 80% of
the world’s Merino wool for apparel.
Centuries of evolution, aided by selective breeding, have
created a super soft, high performance Merino fibre with a
number of unique properties.
Inherently natural, biodegradable and renewable, Merino wool
is well placed to address the increasing global preference for
natural and environmentally assured products.
Natural
Biodegradable
Renewable
Merino is an entirely natural
fibre grown year-round
by Australia’s 70 million
Merino sheep, consuming
a simple blend of water,
air, sunshine and grass.
Unlike most man-made
fibres, when Merino fibre
is disposed of, it naturally
decomposes back into the
earth in a matter of years.
Most synthetics on the
other hand, are extremely
slow to degrade.
Every year Australian
Merino sheep produce a
new fleece, making Merino
a completely renewable
fibre source.
For generations, farmers who produce this fine wool have
shown how the Australian rural landscape can be managed
effectively while protecting the natural environment, supporting
rural communities and meeting the needs of increasingly
environmentally aware customers.
Merino
A Performance Fibre
The Performance Fibre
Merino is one of the world’s most
technically advanced fibres, with
unique moisture and temperature
regulation properties.
A molecular view of a wool fibre
Protein Backbone
C
C
O
H
How the unique structure of
wool affects its performance
The chemical bonding within
a Merino fibre has the effect
of allowing the fibres to pull
moisture vapour into them.
The structure of wool fibre
The structure of wool
fibre
Cell membrane
Cellcomplex
membrane
complex
Macrofibril
Macrofibril
CH
0
δ-
NH
O
H
Water vapour
molecules
C
Without this effective dispersal
system, the vapour simply
condenses to form sweat
droplets on the skin’s surface.
The diagram represents
this unique fibre structure
of Merino’s electronically
charged side chains.
Microfibril
Microfibril
0
δ-
(CH2)4
H
Hδ+
N
C
CH2
Electric
attractions
Hδ+
NH
Aspartic acid
side chains
Electric
attractions
Lysine
side chains
CH
O
Hδ+
Four outer
cuticle
layers
Four outer
cuticle layers
Matrix
Matrix
R1
C
H
O
0
δ-
CH
H
NH
OH
Hδ+
O
Hδ+
C
O
CH
R2
O
H
H
NH
C
O
H
O
Para cell and
ortho
Paracell
cellcortex
and
ortho cell cortex
Right-handed
α -helix
Right-handed
α -helix
Moisture Management
Merino fibre can absorb up to
35 per cent of its dry weight
in moisture vapour. Therefore,
in hot climates or during
strenuous exercise, a Merino
garment close to the skin
actively transfers moisture
vapour molecules away from
the body. This causes the
micro-climate above the skin
to become less saturated with
vapour, thereby making the
wearer less clammy and it less
likely for the vapour to form
sweat droplets on the
skin’s surface.
Merino Breathability
Microclimate
MerinoPerform™ base layer
Moisture vapour
Skin
Heat transfer occurs
via mass transfer
of vapour
Chemical attraction
quickly draws vapour
molecules through fabric
thus reducing possibility
of condensation
Efficient dispersal
into atmosphere
Moisture vapour contained in
the side chain reservoirs within
wool fibres (before being
released into the atmosphere),
thus keeping fabric dry
Merino garments protect
the wearer from extremes
of temperature (hot or cold)
because they offer superior
insulation and breathability
compared to other fabrics of
similar structure and weight.
This insulation capacity has
made wool synonymous with
warmth, while its breathability
protects the wearer from heat.
Understanding moisture
transportation
In hot climates or during
strenuous exercise, the microclimate above the skin becomes
saturated with vapour. This will
make the individual clammy
unless their clothing can
transport this moisture away
from the skin.
H
R3
CH
0
δ-
Hδ+
NH
O
H
Water vapour
molecules
C
Electric
attractions
0
δ-
H
Lysine
side chains
CH
O
Hδ+
(CH2)4
Hδ+
N
Aspartic acid
side chains
C
CH2
Electric
attractions
Hδ+
NH
C
H
O
0
δ-
CH
Water vapour
molecules
H
NH
OH
O
Hδ+
H
C
O
O
CH
R4
Hδ+
H
Moisture uptake
35
Water Vapour Uptake (%)
Left-handed
coiled
coil rope
Left-handed
coiled coil rope
Why does temperature
control matter?
Temperature control is
essential in sustaining
human life.
Water vapour
molecules
Wool
Cotton
25
Polyamide/Polyester
Polyacrylic
15
5
-5
0
50
Relative Humidity (%)
100
Natural Comfort
Merino fibres are finer than traditional
wool, so they feel luxuriously soft next
to the skin. And they work in total
harmony with the wearer’s body due
to their excellent natural elasticity. So
Merino in next-to-skin garments is ideal
for stretch-related activities such as gym
workouts and yoga.
Breathability
The scientific term for “breathability” is
moisture buffering. Moisture buffering
refers to the fabric’s capacity to absorb
moisture vapour from the micro-climate
above the skin and release it again if the
humidity drops.
When someone says a garment “breathes”
they are referring to its ability to dissipate
perspiration so that the wearer doesn’t
feel clammy or uncomfortable.
The weight of vapour absorbed by a
fibre as a percentage of its dry weight
is known as its regain. Merino has a
high regain which means that it is
better suited to absorbing the moisture
vapour produced by the wearer and
releasing it into the atmosphere. This
results in lowering the humidity in the
micro-climate between the skin and the
garments resulting in minimised sweating.
Temperature Regulation
Sweating is nature’s temperature
regulator – the evaporation of liquid
from the skin’s surface producing a
very efficient cooling effect. Potentially,
clothing can obstruct this process
causing overheating. However, compared
to clothing made from other fibres,
Merino’s process of vapour transfer
results in cooler muscles that are able to
work at higher intensity levels.
Temperature Control
Merino fibre has a natural crimp
which provides Merino garments with
superior insulation and breathability.
Merino garments protect the wearer
from extremes of temperature, keeping
the wearer warm when the outside
temperature is cold, yet cool when the
temperature is hot.
Anti-static
The ability to dissipate static electricity
means that Merino garments have a
reduced attraction to lint and fluff.
They will also not cling uncomfortably
to the wearer, which synthetics often
do during exercise, resulting in a more
comfortable workout
CSIRO wear
wear trial
CSIRO
trial results
results
4
4
This ability to release moisture and
minimise sweating will reduce the
clamminess felt by the wearer, providing
increased comfort during exercise.
Moisture absorbed
absorbed (%
Moisture
(% increased
increased in
in weight
weight of
of garment)
garment)
Wool
Wool
Measured
Measured
Wool
Wool
Predicted
Predicted
3
3
2
2
Polyester
Polyester
Measured
Measured
Polyester
Polyester
Predicted
Predicted
1
1
0
0
3
3
0
0
10
10
20
20
Minutes of Exercise
Minutes of Exercise
30
30
Clamminess Rating: 1=None 5=Extreme
Clamminess Rating: 1=None 5=Extreme
Polyester
Polyester
Wool
Wool
2
2
1
1
0
0
40
40
0
0
10
10
20
30
Minutes20of Exercise 30
Minutes of Exercise
A wool T-shirt
A wool T-shirt
absorbed
more
absorbed more
perspiration
perspiration
during exercise,
during
and
felt exercise,
less
and felt than
less an
clammy
clammy
than an
identically-knitted
identically-knitted
polyester
40 garment.
polyester
40 garment.
Merino fibres have a natural
protective layer that prevents stains
being absorbed, and due to them
being less prone to static build-up,
Merino fibres do not readily
attract dust.
Recent innovations also mean
that many Merino products can be
machine washable and tumble-dried.
Surface Free Energy (mN/m)
Easy Care
40
35
Oil
30
25
20
15
10
5
Polyamide
Acrylic
Polyester
Wool
Average UPF values of knitwear fibres
60
Average UPF Value
The Merino fibreis also naturally fire
resistant due to its relatively high
moisture and nitrogen content.
Oil and
water based
stains do not
easily adhere
to fibres
with SFE
less than 30
45
0
Naturally Safer Fibre
Merino fibres naturally absorb UV
radiation, offering protection to
wearers of Merino garments
when exposed to sunshine.
Fibre soiling propensity
50
Thilo Gamblicher, Sebastian Rotterdam, Peter Altmeyer, Klaus Hoffmann "Protection against ultraviolet radiation
by commercial summer clothing: need for standarised testing and labelling” BMC Dermatology, 2001, vol 1, No. 6
50
40
30
20
10
0
Cotton
Odour Resistance
Wool
Linen
Viscose Polyamide Polyester
Preference After Wearing
Merino
Cotton
Merino stays fresher for longer.
Merino wool’s structure and moisture
absorption properties reduce the
tendency for build-up of body
odours. Its complex chemical
structure locks the odour molecules
within the fibre and only releases
them on washing.
Merino
Acrylic
Merino
Polypropylene
0
Preference Votes
15
The wearer
trials showed that
Merino socks
were preferred
for lack of odour
after wear and
also having less
trace of odour
after washing,
especially when
compared
30 to polypropylene
socks.
Preference After Washing
Merino
Cotton
Merino
Acrylic
Merino
Polypropylene
5
20
10
0
25
Polyamide Polyester Low-pill
0
Polyester
Sock Fibre
Type
Merino
Cotton
Temperature &
wash cycle length
40°C / minimum
50°C / minimum
Dry
Acrylic
Polypropylene
30
After
‘Severe’ Wash
The high
stretch of
wool fibre
allows it to
absorb
sudden
stresses.
Merino
Cotton
40
10
Wet
Acrylic
Polypropylene
50
‘Mild’ Wash
Merino
60
50
Cotton
Merino fibre has a natural elasticity
meaning it stretches with the wearer,
and then returns to its natural shape.
This means there is less chance of
Merino garments sagging or losing
their shape.
Stretch properties
After
% of socks with any trace of odour
Shape Retention
Fibre Stretch at Breaking point (%)
0
Preference Votes
Cotton
Acrylic
Temperature &
wash cycle length
40°C / maximum
60°C / maximum
Wool
Introducing MerinoPerformTM
& the layering system
In the area of performance apparel, the agreed concept of
dressing is to use the layering system: Base layer, Mid layer and
Outer layer. This gives the wearer the opportunity to always
adjust the clothing to the environment as well as to the activity
level. It is of utmost importance that these three layers work
together, thereby not just giving the protection required but
also to deliver maximum breathability. If any of the layers don’t
perform, or interact with the other, the result can be either a too
cold or a too warm and humid experience.
The unique moisture management, buffering, insulating and
breathability properties of the Merino fibre work seamlessly
together through all three layers. No matter the conditions;
hot, cold or humid.
Base layer
Next to Skin, Pro
and Advantage
The three fabric concepts
cover all levels of activity.
Merino garments in 19.5
micron or finer assure the
wearer of a super soft
and comfortable next-toskin product with highly
efficient breathability.
Body Warmth
Mid layer
or soft shell
This layer is usually a
stretchy garment and a
“protection layer” against
cold or wet weather.
Wool’s superior insulation
properties make it a
perfect fibre for this.
Outer layer
With a wool lining in
a hard shell jacket,
condensation is minimised
and the insulation
properties of wool help
stop chills penetrating
through the fabric from
the cold environment.
In an all-wool garment,
wool’s insulation and water
resistance makes it ideal
for all kinds of weather.
Wind & Rain
perspiration
perspiration
MerinoPerform –
Base layer
MerinoPerformTM – Pro
TM
MerinoPerform
TM
MerinoPerformTM Pro is the ultimate sports fabric for the serious
participant – whether professional and amateur.
– Next to Skin
CSIRO wear trial results
Moisture absorbed (% increased in weight of garment)
4
Wool
Measured
The MerinoPerform Next to Skin range provides a high level of
comfort, suitable for those seeking a sense of wellbeing in a
broad range of leisure and sporting activities.
3
It has the advanced vapour and liquid moisture management
of MerinoPerformTM Advantage but in a 100% Merino,
knitted fabric.
Wool
Predicted
2
1
0
10
20
30
40
Minutes of Exercise
CSIRO wear trial results
Clamminess Rating: 1=None 5=Extreme
Moisture absorbed (% increased in weight of garment)
4
Wool
Measured
3
Wool
Predicted
3
Polyester
Wool
2
2
Polyester
Measured
1
0
1
Polyester
Predicted
0
10
20
30
0
40
Minutes of Exercise
0
Clamminess Rating: 1=None 5=Extreme
20
30
A wool T-shirt
absorbed more
perspiration
during exercise,
and felt less
clammy than an
identically-knitted
40 polyester
garment.
100% Merino Moisture Management
MerinoPerformTM Advantage fabrics
have for several years been the high
performance fabric of choice to manage
moisture and keep the wearer cool under
high intensity conditions. However, with
consumers demonstrating an increasing
preference for eco-friendly products, a
high performance fabric made from an
entirely natural fibre has been regarded
as the ultimate solution. MerinoPerform TM
Pro fabrics meet this need.
Polyester
Wool
2
1
0
10
Minutes of Exercise
3
Key features
0
10
20
Minutes of Exercise
30
Technical features
Polyester
Predicted
A wool T-shirt
absorbed more
perspiration
during exercise,
and felt less
clammy than an
identically-knitted
40 polyester
garment.
MerinoPerformTM Pro fabrics work on
the same principle as MerinoPerform TM
Advantage fabrics, but they are made
from 100 per cent Merino. Ideal for
base-layer garments aimed at low to
high activity sports, this innovation is
made from a special double-faced 100%
Merino fabric.
During the initial phases of exercise, the
inner layer of the Merino fabric absorbs
moisture vapour. If the fibre reaches its
limit to absorb moisture, any liquid sweat
is repelled by the layer’s hydrophobic
surface and forced into contact with
the relatively hydrophilic fibres of the
Merino outer layer. The MerinoPerformTM
Pro fabric thereby quickly moves sweat
to the fabric’s outer side. This oneway wicking behaviour ensures drier
garments that feel more comfortable
during exercise and reduce post
exercise chills.
100 per cent Merino wool, of less
than 19.5 micron, enables up to three
times the moisture vapour absorption
capacity of blended fabrics.
Liquid moisture wicking ratio of
2:1 Face:Back.
The lightweight fabric of 160-230gsm
is machine washable and tumble
dryable without shrinkage or loss of
moisture management properties.
Grade 4 or better moisture management
rating from the AATCC 195 test protocol,
even after 20 simulated wool-wash and
tumble dry cycles.
This new fabric concept has been
developed in conjunction with our
selected MerinoPerformTM fabric
makers and spinners.
Uptake of liquid moisture according
to AATCC 195
120
% Water uptake
0
Polyester
Measured
100
80
60
40
20
0
-20
0
10
20
30
40
Time (Seconds)
Water content
on outside
Water content
on inside
50
60
MerinoPerformTM
Advantage is
a range of
bi-component
fabrics with unique
temperature
regulation
and vapour
management
properties, keeping
athletes cooler
and drier when
exercising.
MerinoPerformTM – Advantage
The MerinoPerformTM Advantage range comprises high
performance, lightweight fabrics, suitable for athletes that
want the support to perform at their best.
Non-wool base layers
Humidity & liquid sweat
Key features
MerinoPerformTM Advantage fabrics have
the key benefits of the Merino fibre, plus
the following additional features:
Bi-Component Fabric Structure
MerinoPerform TM Advantage fabrics
combine the unique high-performance
benefits of Merino fibres with synthetics
in a bi-component structure. They
are knitted fabrics with the inside
component made from 19.5 micron or
finer Merino, which comprises at least
20 per cent of the fabric. The outside
component of the fabric is made from
hydrophilic synthetic fibres.
Vapour and Liquid
Moisture Management
MerinoPerformTM Advantage (and
MerinoPerformTM Pro) transfers both vapour
and liquid (sweat) moisture away from the
body, enabling the wearer to stay comfortably
cool and dry during extreme exercise.
During the initial phases of exercise,
the inner layer of Merino fabric absorbs
moisture vapour. If the fibre reaches
its limit to absorb moisture, any
liquid sweat is repelled by the layer’s
hydrophobic surface and forced into
contact with the relatively hydrophilic
fibres of the synthetic outer layer.
The MerinoPerformTM Advantage fabric
thereby quickly moves sweat to the
fabric’s outer side.
Skin
This one-way wicking behaviour
ensures drier garments that feel more
comfortable during exercise and reduce
post exercise chills.
While some non-Merino performance
fabrics manage to wick liquid moisture
away, they do not manage vapour
moisture. MerinoPerform TM Advantage
fabrics manage both vapour and liquid
moisture, resulting in a more advanced
cooling and drying process.
Moisture vapour
condenses to
form droplets
Flow of moisture vapour
restricted by material thus
fabric can get wet
from condensation
MerinoPerform™ Advantage Base layers
Microclimate
MerinoPerformTM Buffering layer
Drier micro climate
provides better
insulation
and comfort
Higher Strength
The composite structure of
MerinoPerformTM Advantage fabric
gives it high tensile strength. So in addition
to enjoying all the other attributes of
Merino, garments made with the fabric
are highly suitable for contact sports.
Vapour
dispersal into
atmosphere
Moisture vapour
Skin
Chemical attraction
quickly draws vapour
molecules through
wool fabric
thus reducing
possibility
of condensation
Synthetic outer layer
Moisture vapour contained in
the side chain reservoirs within
wool fibres (before being
released into the atmosphere),
thus keeping fabric dry
Vapour dispersal
into atmosphere
Moisture vapour
Heat transfer occurs
via mass transfer
of vapour
Thin layer of wool for
moisture buffering and insulation
Merino is light in weight,
feels soft against the
skin and has outstanding
moisture buffering:
a combination that
cannot be duplicated
by any other fibre
MerinoPerformTM –
Mid layer
Wool’s naturally high crimp means that it can be easily spun
into soft yarns to create highly efficient insulating fabrics.
The physical property of textiles responsible for thermal
insulation is closely linked to the fibres’ ability to trap air.
Merino’s natural and permanent curly fibre makes it the ideal
fibre for creating comfortable insulating fabrics.
However, while a mid-layer garment’s key function is to protect
the wearer from cold, the garment must also breathe so as to
prevent the body from feeling clammy and humid. Merino’s
ability to absorb the humidity created by the body and release
it on the outside ensures the wearer experiences the best
possible micro-climate conditions.
Thermo-Regulation:
Compared to other fabrics, Merino’s
process of vapour transfer results
in a more balanced or comfortable
micro climate. Odour Resistance:
Merino stays fresher for longer. Its
complex chemical structure locks
the odour molecules within the fibre
and only releases them on washing.
Natural Fit: Merino has excellent
natural elasticity.
Enhanced insulation:
Merino’s long-standing reputation
for warmth can be attributed to
its high natural bulk and elasticity
which together give wool knitwear
excellent insulating characteristics
in a package that is light in weight,
feels soft against the skin and has
outstanding moisture buffering:
a combination that cannot be
duplicated by any other fibre.
MerinoPerformTM –
Outer layer
The Outer Layer
comprises weather
protective fabrics
which can be made
of either 100%
Australian Merino, or
Merino laminated as
a lining to synthetic
hard shell fabrics,
usually in combination
with membranes
or coatings.
Breathability properties
make wool suitable
for high performance
garments in all kinds
of outdoor activities
or sports, from low
to high intensity.
It’s important that all
layers work seamlessly
together to move
vapour away from
the skin and create
a dry and insulating
microclimate.
It’s important that all
layers work seamlessly
together to move
vapour away from the
skin and create a dry and
insulating microclimate
With an all-wool
layering system the
moisture vapour
buffering capacity
(breathability) provides
a transfer effect able
to deal with most
weather conditions
and activity levels.
Soft or Hard shell Outer layers
Non-wool fabrics
Humidity & liquid sweat
Outer layer
with membrane
or coating
Skin
Vapour
dispersal into
atmosphere
Moisture vapour
Moisture vapour
condenses to
form droplets
Base layer
Flow of moisture vapour
restricted by material thus
fabric inside can get
wet from condensation
Wool lining of Outer layer
Microclimate
Merino buffering lining
Drier micro climate
provides better
insulation
and comfort
Skin
Chemical attraction
quickly draws vapour
molecules through
wool fabric
thus reducing
possibility
of condensation
Outer layer with
membrane or coating
Moisture vapour contained in
the side chain reservoirs within
wool fibres (before being
released into the atmosphere),
thus keeping fabric dry
Vapour dispersal
into atmosphere
Moisture vapour
Heat transfer occurs
via mass transfer
of vapour
Base layer
Thin layer of wool for
moisture buffering and insulation
Wool outer fabric
Microclimate
Wool fabric
Moisture vapour
Rain Repelling
Skin
Base layer
Heat transfer occurs
via mass transfer
of vapour
Chemical attraction
quickly draws vapour
molecules through fabric
thus reducing possibility
of condensation
Efficient dispersal
into atmosphere
Moisture vapour contained in
the side chain reservoirs within
wool fibres (before being
released into the atmosphere),
thus keeping fabric dry
Soft yet strong, tough against
the harshest of climates.
Merino wool was made for
the great outdoors
Australia
Sydney
Greater China
Shanghai,
Beijing, Hong Kong & Taipei
Germany
India
Italy
Japan
Dusseldorf
New Delhi
Milan & Biella
Tokyo & Ichinomiya
Korea
Seoul
Netherlands
Spain
Sweden
Turkey
Gothenburg
Istanbul
United Kingdom
USA
Diessen
Barcelona
London
New York
www.merino.com
www.woolmark.com
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