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RaÍces roots of Contemporary tz’utuhil Maya painting By Joseph Johnston i RaÍces roots of Contemporary tz’utuhil Maya painting by Joseph Johnston • 2012 San Francisco i Arte Maya Tz'utuhil P.O. Box 403911 San Francisco, CA 94140 artdirector@artemaya.com First Published 2012 All paintings and photographs Copyright © 2012 Arte Maya Tz’utuhil All photographs taken by Joseph Johnston All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in any retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means—electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise—without the prior written permission of the publisher. Copyright © 2012 Arte Maya Tz’utuhil Front Cover: “El Pintor” by Domingo Garcia Criado. 2003 ii Contents Maya Painting 1 History 2 Religion 5 Guatemalan Painting 11 First Maya Artists 13 Tz’utuhil Painting 17 Conclusion 22 Glossary 23 Bibliography 25 iii Maya Painting The popular painting of Guatemala emerged in the latter part of the twentieth century, the first time since the Conquest that the Maya of Guatemala used painting to express themselves. Self-taught Maya artists, who identified them- selves as Maya first and as artists second, gave a voice to every aspect of their culture and their lives. The Maya painters of the Lake Atitlán region spoke Tz’utuhil as their first language and Spanish as their second language. None of them learned to paint in art schools. Tz’utuhil painting depicts Maya cultural traditions that through passive resistance still exist, despite the dominant Spanish culture. One of the paintings that most clearly represents the relation of the Maya to the dominant Spanish culture is Pascual Abaj by Antonio Ixtamer. It is an interesting contrast: the brilliantly lit, white Catholic church at the center of town and the secret Maya ritual performed at night in the nearby forest. This stark contrast makes one realize that the Spanish dominance of Maya culture was not complete. The Maya today still nurture beliefs and customs rooted in the pre-conquest culture. Acts such as performing an ancient ritual demonstrate what Robert Carlsen calls the “passive resistance to the occupying culture” (Carlsen 1997). Figure 1: Antonio C. Ixtamer’s painting “Pascual Abaj” a pre-Conquest site just outside of Chichicastenango where Maya rituals are still being performed. 1 Tz’utuhil History Many examples of pre-Hispanic Maya architecture, sculpture and pottery still exist. The surviving paintings of ancient Maya are mainly on clay pots, although a few are found on temple walls, most notably at Bonampak, and in a few surviving codices. The ancient Maya style of painting is distinctive and easily recognizable. The Maya were the only civilization in the Americas to have a complete written language system, and possibly only one of two or three civilizations (Sumerians and perhaps the Chinese) on our planet to have independently created a writing system (Diamond 1997). With the exception of three known surviving codices, all pre-Conquest Maya books were destroyed. Maya writing had been done by scribes, members of the Maya elite, but because the Catholic Church suspected the Maya scribes would encourage continued heretical religious beliefs, the use and understanding of the written Mayan glyphs quickly and completely disappeared. Most of the Maya writing we have, therefore, is either carved as part of sculpture or on pottery. The great Classic Maya cities, such as Tikal and Palenque, had been abandoned for around 500 years when Pedro Alvarado arrived in Guatemala in 1524. At that time, the K’iche’, Kaqchikel, and Tz’utuhil Maya had been living in the highlands of Guatemala for three to six hundred years. Construction of the Kaqchikel city of Iximche’ was started in the 1480s, less than fifty years before the arrival of Alvarado (Schele and Matthews 1998). Although not as spectacular or finely constructed as the Maya cities of the Classic Period, Iximche’s style and method of construction are the same. Upon his arrival, Pedro Alvarado attacked and burned the K’iche’ city of Q’umarkah, now more commonly known as Utatlán. The Kaqchikels, enemies of the K’iche’, initially welcomed Alvarado but by 1526 the Spanish had also Figure 2: Ruins of the Kaqchikel city of Iximche’ a few miles outside of the present day town of Tecpan. 2 burned Iximche’ and by 1530 had hanged the Kaqchikel kings. After defeating the K’iche’ and the Kaqchikels, Pedro Alvarado conquered the Tz’utuhil city of Chutinamit on a hill overlooking Lake Atitlán. On April 22nd 1525, three days after the conquest of Chutinamit, the Tz’utuhils surrendered to Pedro Alvarado in Iximché. He moved the Tz’utuhil people to a new location a short distance across a bay on the lake. No records mention the date of the destruction of Chitinamit, but it is known the Spanish destroyed it before 1585 (Orellana 1984). Archeologists excavated and restored the ruins at Iximche’, but the Tz’utuhil site of Chutinamit lies unexcavated and abandoned under farmers’ fields on a promontory at the foot of the San Pedro volcano. The Conquest ended the independence of the Maya people of Guatemala and Mexico, but the Maya people and many aspects of Maya culture survived. The Maya on the south side of Lake Atitlan continued to speak Tz’utuhil as a first and often the only language. As a visible sign of their Maya heritage, the Maya continued to wear clothes of their own distinctive design that the Maya women wove on traditional backstrap looms. The first Spanish institution imposed on the Maya was the tribute or encomienda system. The Maya had to pay a tribute and work for the Spanish. There was little gold in the Guatemala highlands, but because of the vast cacao fields held by the Tz’utuhil Maya on the Pacific coast side of the mountain range, the Atitlán encomienda was one of the most lucrative (Orellana 1984, 137). When an easier source of cacao became available, the Tz’utuhil area became less important to the Spanish. As long as the tributes were paid, the Spanish viceroys seldom visited the highlands of Guatemala. This lack of important resources (sources of income for the Spanish) allowed Maya culture to continue without much contact with the Spanish elite who lived elsewhere. After the Conquest, the Spanish grouped chinamits, the basic pre-Columbian unit of social and political organization, together to form towns. Chinamit comes from a Nahualt Figure 3: The site of Chutinamit, the Tz’utuhil capital. It sits at the foot of the San Pedro volcano across the bay from present day Santiago Atitlán. The site, which sits under farmers’ fields, has not been excavated. 3 word, meaning to fence in an area with corn stalks, and would signify a group of people living and working closely together. Territory was held by the chinamit which entailed rights and obligations of its members. Although not strictly lineage based, membership in a chinamit allowed use of the leader’s surname. The Spanish accepted chinamits because they made the raising and collection of the tribute to the crown easier. The pre-Hispanic Maya leaders had an interest in preserving the chinamits in order to enforce recognition of their descent from Maya royalty and retain influence in the community (Orellana 1984; Carlsen 1995). This helped to unite each town as an independent entity, separate from its neighbors. Each town had a independent civil-ceremonial system. Each man had to contribute a year of service, servicio, about every four years to either the civil side or to the religious cofradias. As men from important or rich families grew older, they obtained higher and more important positions. The civil government blended the Spanish positions with the Maya hierarchy so that, initially the Maya Lords still held on to much of their influence. Over the centuries after the Conquest, the system began to permit common people to rise up the ranks (Carmack 1981). The different offices of the civil government were: alcalde, regidores, mayores, sindicos, interpretes, alguaciles, and regidores auxiliaries (Paul 1989). Guatemalan independence from Spain in 1821, after three centuries of colonial rule, did not significantly help the Maya. In the 19th century, the Guatemala government offered free land to Europeans who wished to emigrate and start coffee plantations. The land given to these immigrants was in the Piedmont area on the Pacific coast side of Guatemala, where the Maya had traditionally held land communally. After this in order to earn money, the Maya had to travel to the coast and work under harsh conditions for small wages (Wilkensen 2002). When in the 1950s Guatemala’s democratically elected president, Jacobo Arbenz, tried to rectify the marginalization of the Maya with land reform, the United Fruit Company, fearing loss of their plantations, maneuvered the CIA to back a coup. This led to the time of violence during the first half of the 1980s. Under the dictatorship of Rios Montt, over 200,000 Maya were killed mainly by the Guatemalan military (Wilkinsen: 2002). In the 1990s, guerrillas and the Guatemalan government reached a truce and signed a peace accord. After 500 years of exclusion, the Maya of Guatemala gained an opening to participate in the government of Guatemala. An indigenous Maya woman, Rigoberto Menchú, won the Nobel Peace Prize, and the first Maya, also a woman, was elected to the Congress of Guatemala. 4 Religion Intertwining of Catholic and Maya Beliefs After the Conquest, the Catholic Church was the dominant Spanish institution in the Maya highlands of Guatemala. Within a hundred years of the conquest, every Maya town and village in the mountains had Catholic churches. The largest Tz’utuhil town, Santiago Atitlán, completed their church building in 1582. Sometimes Maya beliefs coincided with Catholic teachings; other times they were incompatible. The Catholic priests considered idolatry and human sacrifice to be the work of the devil. Between 1545 and 1550 many Maya carved images in the Tz’utuhil towns were burned in public, and the Church put an end to human sacrifice (Orellana 1984, 206). Perhaps the biggest help in converting the Maya to Christianity was the Catholic cofradía system. A cofradía is a religious guild sanctioned by the church. Each cofradía would honor a patron saint. The earliest documented Tz’utuhil cofradía was the Cofradía de Concepción in San Pedro la Laguna in 1633 (Aguirre 1972, 343). Because Spaniards and Maya always belonged to separate cofradías, the Maya could incorporate elements of ancient Maya religious customs in the ritual of their cofradías (Orellana 1984, 209). The Catholic Church restricted non-Chris- tian religious observances, and ancient Maya religious beliefs had to be hidden under the cloak of Catholicism. The Catholic priests, in order to facilitate the conversion of the Maya to Catholicism, tried to incorporate some aspects of Maya tradition within the church. The steep and rugged terrain of the highlands of Guatemala made travel in the Maya highlands difficult, and at times most churches in the Tz’utuhil communities were only visited intermittently by a priest. As a result, the Maya became devout Catholics but they saw no conflict with also continuing to practice their pre-Hispanic religious beliefs. The Maya incorporated some of their religious beliefs into the Catholic Church through a process that anthropologists term syncretism, which is the blending or incorporating of religious beliefs from two unrelated traditions. Examples of syncretism include: Maximón becoming Judus Iscariot; guardian animal spirits associated with Christian saints; the Atitlán altarpiece as a symbol of the volcano; and the tree of life and the Christian cross. Other aspects of Maya beliefs—such as worship of idols and divinations—survived as secret practices hidden from outsiders. Maya deities often coalesced with figures in 5 Catholicism. In Santiago Atitlán the Tz’utuhil people revere the Maximón icon, also known as the pre-Columbian god Mam, the creator of the universe. The very old, but probably not preHispanic, body of Maximón was carved from the wood of the sacred coral tree. His face is an wooden mask, and he smokes a cigar. He is dressed in the traje (traditional hand-woven attire) of Santiago Atitlán, and adorned with a multitude of scarves. Maximón is considered very powerful and a trickster. The Catholics initially associated Maximón with Judas Iscariot (Prechtel 1998). This connection revealed a lack of understanding of the Maya deities, and of importance of Maximón to the locals. Most Maya deities have at the same time both good and bad attributes. At times Catholic priests tried to ban Maximón, as his Judas incarnation, from the church building during the Easter procession, but it has always caused unrest within the local population, and in the end the Tz’utuhils prevailed (Tarn 1997). The belief in animal spirits still persists among the Maya. Many Maya believe that each person is born with a guardian animal called a nahual. Many Christian saints are associated with animals, and when the Maya saw a saint portrayed with an animal they probably assumed that the animal was the saint’s nahual (Orellana 1984, 207). Nahual/animal syncretism occurs in the life-sized figure of St. John with a lamb that belongs to the Cofradia of San Juan in Santiago Atitlán. The saint wears the typical male tz’ute (headdress) of Atitlán. The lamb, although white, also has black spots, whiskers, and fangs. The lamb is thus also a jaguar, and St. John is included in the aspects of a more inclusive Maya deity Rjawal Pek’chila Chkop, the lord of the wild animals (Carlsen: 1995. p.98). The altarpiece of the church in Santiago Figure 4: "Rilaj Mam," a painting by Pedro Rafael Gonzalez Chavajay of a procession honoring Maximon in Santiago Atitlán. 6 Atitlan is a recent example of blending of the two religions. After an earthquake damaged it in the 1970s, much of it needed to be replaced. Brothers Diego and Nicholas Chavez, woodcarvers, altered the replacement to form a shape similar to the Toliman Volcano that rises above the town. Carved figures of cofrades with their staffs climb the volcano/altar. A cornstalk, the symbol of yearly rebirth, grows at the pinnacle of the altar. For the local cofradía members, the statues of the saints in the niches of this altarpiece would symbolize the caves hidden on the side of the volcano where Maya priests still perform rituals. One of the carved panels in the lower portion depicts an ajq’iij (a Maya shaman or daykeeper) casting a divination (Christiansen 2003, 98-99). In the Garcia Ixmata family, typical of Maya Catholic homes, the pre-Hispanic practices and beliefs live on combined with Catholicism. Descendants of the first Spaniard to marry into the town, the family inherited a 17th or 18th century crucifix in the 1970s from cousins who had converted to an evangelical church. The crucifix now serves as the center of their household altar, always adorned with fresh flowers. Other townspeople frequently come over to pray at the cross. The cross is not flat like the typical Catholic cross, but is round and colored green. For the Maya, the cross represented the world tree, and symbolized the four directions. It had its roots in the underworld and its branches in the heavens. Traditionally the world tree was a ceiba tree, the national tree of Guatemala. The Yucatek Maya word for ceiba, yaxché, is also the word for green (Miller and Taub 1993). The Gracia family has hung two stunted ears of white corn from the nails in Christ’s hands, and another ear Figure 5: Atitlán altarpiece is shaped like the volcano that rises above the town.It is a clear example of syncretism—a mix of Maya and Catholic beliefs. 7 flowers that look like small ears of red corn. In the Popul Vuh, the hero twins are beheaded, die and return to the underworld: each year they are reborn as elote, the living corn plant. Like the story of Jesus, the Popul Vuh is a story of rebirth. Christ died on the cross but was resurrected; the hero twins die each year and emerge again as corn plants. The pre-Conquest Maya worshipped a variety of deities. Some of the most important were the patron deity of each lineage. These deities were often represented by idols of carved wood or stone and were worshipped in caves. After the Conquest, the priests discovered such carved figures behind altars (Orellana 1984). More commonly the Maya placed these carved figures on household altars, and they carried Figure 6: The Garcia-Ixmata Christ adorned with ears of dried red and white corn. of red corn from the nail in his feet. Carvings of a rope twine around the arms of the cross and bind red blossoms, probably representing roses, to the front of each arm. A closer look at the inflorescences shows them to be very strange Figure 7: Tz’utuhil sculptor Feliciano Pop with a few of his carvings that resemble pre-Hispanic idols. 8 small figures around in bundles for their protection. Carved idols still exist. An ex-mayor of San Pedro, Feliciano Pop, carves figures that look like the pre-Hispanic idols depicted in drawings in Orellana’s book. Pop intends the small figures to be carried around as a protection. The Maya continue to believe that a god or spirit resides in everything—the sun, the earth, mountains, the lake, the wind, and grains of corn. Mayan languages have words expressing this idea. In Tz’utuhil, ruuk’u’x generally is translated as “heart of,” “root of,” or “center of.” Ruuk’u’z ya would be “heart of the lake” and ruuk’u’x ulew would be “heart of the earth.” In some of his paintings, Tz’utuhil artist Diego Isaias Hernandez portrays these spirits, giving them human faces. Pedro Rafael Gonzalez Chavajay recalled when his grandfather Chavajay conducted the church service, he would begin the service asking for the blessing of the spirits of the mountain, the air, and the lake. The converse is also true: in Maya ceremonies at sacred sites, one usually hears “Jesus Cristo” appearing among the Tz’utuhil words during the invocation. Robert Carmack (1981, 334) wrote about the religion of the Maya after the Conquest. He states: “The priests who were aware of the clandestine practices…considered them to be part of a religion separate from the church. For the natives, however, the two formed a single Figure 8: Diego Isaias Hernandez often personifies the spirits of the sun, moon, wind, rain, and mountains in his paintings. He portrays animals as being more aware of their presence than humans. system of belief and ritual.” From another perspective, the Catholic Church did not succeed in converting the Maya religious belief; rather, the Maya incorporated the Catholic Church into their religious system. There are many sites in Guatemala where the Maya performed rituals. Pablo Garcia Ixmata is the eldest son of the Garcia Ixmata family. Pablo Garcia studied with Nora England from the University of Iowa, and became a scholar and world expert on the Tz’utuhil language. He took on his Maya name Ajpub’ and devoted his life to preserving not only the Maya languages in Guatemala, but also knowledge of Maya religious beliefs. He recently documented and photographed sites around each highland 9 hidden away and hard to find. Some are in caves. Many are on spectacular promontories or rocks that have a direct line of sight to another ritual location. Rituals marked special days in the Maya calendar for blessing children, crops, or marriages. Since the signing of the peace accords, the Maya have become more open about their sacred sites and practices. A contemporary Maya spirituality is arising, one that ties spiritual beliefs to a respect for the nature and the planet (Moslesky Poz 2006). The syncretism of the Maya and Catholic beliefs created the Maya culture of the twentieth century. That blended culture and belief system forms the basis of the Maya traditions depicted in the Tz’utuhil paintings. Figure 9: The places where the Maya perform rituals were considered sacred. The sites often are at the most striking natural formations such as boulders or caves, and they often are at the highest point with incredible views. This ritual painted by Pedro Rafael Gonzalez Chavajay is near Santa Clara la Laguna. town where the Maya performed religious rituals. Garcia discovered that around each Maya town at least five and sometimes as many as thirty sites exist. Some sites are no longer in use, but each town has places where the local Maya still perform rituals. The sites are often 10 Guatemalan Painting After the Conquest, Maya painting disappeared. During the colonial period, the Catholic Church sponsored the only painting. These paintings depicted the lives of Christ and the saints, and scenes from the Bible. It was not until the late 1800s after Central American independence from Spain that Guatemalan artists began painting non-Christian art. At the beginning of the twentieth century, most people in Europe and the United States held ethnocentric attitudes—thinking of other cultures as inferior. The European culture labeled anything tribal as Primitive Art including the art of Africa and Oceanaic art. During the twentieth century, these attitudes generally underwent a shift and the art of non-Europeanbased cultures accrued more respect. The syncretism of the Spanish and indigenous cultures influenced Latin American art especially in countries—Peru, Mexico and Guatemala—that have large indigenous populations. Most Latin American artists trained in the European art tradition, often spending time in Europe as part of their early development. Many of these artists then returned to their native country and found inspiration from its indigenous culture. Early in the 20th century, indigenismo, praising native values, became the official position in Mexico. The Mexican muralist movement drew themes from indigenism and in the traditions of the indigenous populations of Mexico. Indigenismo also influenced the arts in Guatemala, where artists drew from Maya culture in painting, dance and music. Indigenismo, however, did not translate into better treatment of the Maya in Guatemala, nor did it foster Maya arts. Oppression and marginalization of the Maya continued, most recently erupting in a period of guerrilla warfare and genocide in Guatemala during the 1980s. Unlike Diego Rivera and the Mexican muralists, the twentieth century artists of Guatemala are among the least known of all the Latin American artists. Among those famous within Guatemala are Humberto Garavito, Alfredo Galvez Suarez, Antonio Tejeda Foseca, and Carmen Pettersen. Constant among their themes are the Maya of Guatemala and their traditions. All of these artists, however, were trained in the European art tradition. They observe the Maya as sympathetic outsiders. Perhaps the best known internationally of the Guatemala artists is Carlos Merida, a mestizo of Spanish/K’iche’ Maya descent. In 1910 while still in his teens, Carlos Merida traveled to Paris with his teacher, artist Carlo Valenti, 11 who introduced Merida to Pablo Picasso and the exciting Paris art scene. In 1914 Merida returned to Guatemala, married, and moved to Mexico after his wife’s family opposed the marriage. In Mexico he worked with Diego Rivera and the Mexican muralists (Escobeda Mendoza 2002). His early work was representational with many of his themes derived from Maya traditions. He returned to Paris in 1927, and, under the influence of Paul Klee, abandoned his figurative style in favor of an abstract style he called “mestizo” (Merida 1976). His later work became more cubistic. Even so, he still produced a representational series of prints of both Guatemala and Mexican indigenous dress. Although he had largely abandoned figurative painting, most of his paintings still had their roots in Maya culture, dance and music (Koeninger 1076). In the 1950s, he painted many of his smaller paintings on a hand-made native paper called amate. Even though his art drew on his Maya ancestry, Carlos Merida spent most of his life living outside contemporary Maya culture. Figure 10: "San Juan Cotzal, Quiche" one of the prints by Carlos Merida from the portfolio o”Traje de Guatemala.” 12 The First Maya Artists What conditions brought Maya painting into existence and fostered it? Ancient Maya artists painted murals and pottery, but neither of these traditions continued after the Conquest. The inspiration for the first Tz’utuhil Maya paintings must have come from the oil paintings of saints that they saw in the Catholic churches and from the weavings of the Maya women. From ancient times to the present, Maya women wove their own cloth. Few pre-Hispanic examples of Maya weaving have survived. Most of what we know about the style of the clothes the ancient Maya wore comes from sculpture, paintings on pottery, and the surviving codices. Lintel 24, temple 23, Yaxchilán shows Lady Xoc in a bloodletting ceremony. She wears a patterned huipil (blouse) similar to the longer ceremonial huipiles worn by Maya women today. The clothes worn by the ancient Maya probably indicated class and rank (Blum Schevill 1997). The Maya weavings strongly influenced Tz’utuhil painting. Every day the artists saw women weaving cloth on backstrap looms every day. They saw the amount of attention that the women gave to color, design and detail, and how a piece progressed over the weeks or months it took to finish. The Tz’utuhil artists Figure 11: Dolores Sapalu wove the clothing that she and her husband, Santiago Atitlán artist Manuel Reanda, are wearing. borrowed from the brilliantly colored weavings to create a palette for the paintings, and they were not afraid to spend weeks on a painting. 13 Because these artists wished to depict Maya people wearing traje, the weavings influenced the paintings in another important way. Depicting the traje accurately is important because the style of the traje indicates which Maya town a person lives in or, in other words, a person’s lineage. The people in the paintings, therefore, needed to be painted large enough to show the detail in the designs of the traje. Indigenous painting began in the late 1920s when an indigenous man Rafael Gonzalez y Gonzalez, from the Tz’utujil town of San Pedro la Laguna, began to paint. In the late 1940s, another Tz’utuhil man, Juan Sisay from nearby Santiago Atitlan, also took up painting. Each of them inspired others in their families and communities to take up painting. What conditions allowed these two artists to begin to paint? These two artists come from families of campesinos (famers) who live off the land. What little cash a campesino family earns each year would not be spent on creating oil paintings. Oil painting requires a considerable outlay of money for canvas, brushes and oil paints. In order for these artists to continue painting, they needed a market for their paintings. This market would come from tourism. Neither of the originators of Tz’utuhil Maya painting started out painting in oil. Oil painting as a technique originated in European around the time of the Renaissance. Before Gonzalez began painting, he had worked re- Figure 12: Juan Sisay, the first painter from Santiago Atitlán, started painting on stiff paper called “cartulina.” pairing statuary for the church. At first Rafael Gonzalez improvised materials making his brushes from his own hair and mixing aniline dyes used in weaving with the sap of a gavilea tree to make his paints. In 1929, around six months after Rafael finishing his first painting, a tourist bought the painting for fifty cents, a considerable sum at the time. With the sale of this painting, he decided painting might be a way to earn extra money (Paul and Johnston 1998). In the early 1940s Gonzalez, who then worked on a finca (plantation) near Chicacao, received his first oil paints from the wife of the plantation owner in return for a painting Rafael gave to her husband (Paul and Johnston 1998). By the time he switched to oils, Gonzalez had begun selling his paintings to foreigners he met 14 began painting as a result of a seeing a tourist painting the church in Santiago Atitlan with watercolors. Fascinated, Sisay managed to get the tourist to give him some of his paints, from which he created his first painting (Dary 1998). For the first decade, Sisay painted in gouach or watercolor on cartulina (a stiff paper). The regular stream of tourists coming to Santiago Atitlan provided a ready market for the paintings he did. Rafael Gonzalez painted the world around him. He not only depicted Maya traditions such as a marriage ceremony in San Pedro la Laguna, but also painted festivals and markets that would include ladinos and tourists. It will be instructive to compare Tz’utuhil artists to that of Carlos Merida. Carlos Merida grew up in Quetzaltenango, the second largest city in Guatemala, and a city that is essentially Mayan. In order to pursue his vocation as an artist, he first studied at a university in Guatemala, and then travelled to Paris, the center of the art world at the time. Patty Koeninger (1976) writes about his Mayan roots: “Even though he turned away from folkloric elements for abstraction, Mérida never really escaped his Guatemalan origins, for to do so would be to deny his identity, his concept of reality. To rid himself of all [Maya] folkloric elements would be to remove the color, rhythm, poetry, magicality of his painting.” Figure 13: Rafael Gonzalez carved and repaired wooden sculpture before he became a painter. This black Christ , modeled after the black Christ at Esquipulas, was on an altar near his bed until his death in 1996. on the plantations. In the 1940s Santiago Atitlan was beginning to be a tourist attraction, mainly for tourists from the United States. Juan Sisay Carlos Merida drew on his Maya roots for themes to his paintings. He created his own style of painting that fit into the Modern move15 Figure 14: Rafael Gonzalez painted what he saw. The second generation of artists, trying to record vanishing Maya traditions, only depict people wearing their traditional attire. ment. He did not depict the Maya culture. By contrast the Tz’utuhil artists would depict the Maya traditions that were a visible part of daily life. Their paintings came directly out of their lives not out of formal training. These artists started an art movement that truly was part of contemporary Maya culture. 16 Tz’utuhil Painting Maya painting did not take off until the 1960s when, due to improved roads and air travel, tourists began coming in numbers to Guatemala. Selling the art was still a real struggle for the most of the artists until around 1967 when Ruth Bunge, a German woman who had a small gallery in Guatemala City near the big hotels, began buying paintings from the artists in San Pedro la Laguna and San Juan Comalapa. This allowed a generation of artists to make a living. By the early 1970s no less than sixty Maya artists created paintings in the three Tz’utuhil Maya towns: San Pedro la Laguna, Santiago Atitlán, and San Juan la Laguna. The Tz’utuhil Maya artists had an additional outlet. They could sell their paintings to the galleries of artists in Santiago Atitlán that on a daily basis were visited by crowds of tourists. After the middle of the twentieth century, changes as great as the Conquest began affecting the culture of highland Maya of Guatemala. In San Pedro during the 1960s, the cofradía system that had functioned for over four hundred years completely disappeared. The younger generation became more educated and at the same time tended to speak Spanish more often than Tz’utuhil. The fundamentalist Christian churches made inroads in the high- lands of Guatemala. A guerrilla war resulted in the deaths of 200,000 Maya in Guatemala. Because they were easy targets for the Army in the 1980s if they wore their traje (traditonal attire), most Maya men stopped wearing traje. The highland Maya towns, which were once isolated, became connected to the rest of the world via at first roads, and then later cell phones, computers, and the internet. This global connection has accelerated the rate of change in the Maya communities. By the 1960s when the second generation had begun to paint, many of the Maya traditions were disappearing. Pedro Rafael Gonzalez Chavajay, a good spokesperson for all the Tz’utuhil artists, says that because Maya customs and traditions are threatened with extinction, he wants to document all aspects of Maya life. So that he can accurately depict those customs in his paintings, Pedro Rafael Gonzalez listens carefully to the stories of the town elders who know the details of the traditions that have already disappeared. To document the way it was, Pedro Rafael Gonzalez only paints Maya people wearing traditional traje. Ladinos, tourists, and Maya people in western attire are never portrayed in his paintings. The activities that the artists depict have 17 Abaj depict pre-Conquest customs. The masked dances derive from both preConquest Maya rituals and dances, and from Spanish dances. We do not know exactly how the Maya performed the pre-Conquest Maya dances, many of which the Catholic priests Figure 15: “Tejedora” by Domingo Garcia Criado shows a woman spinning, in much the same way as her pre-Hispanic ancestors. changed little from the pre-Hispanic era. Women’s activities such as weaving and making tortillas are the same. Likewise most paintings of harvesting crops (corn, bananas, maguey, cacao, mango, avocado and papaya) are crops the Maya have always grown. The Spanish, however, introduced coffee the most important cash crop. The paintings of medical themes— comadrona, curandero de huesos, and dentista—are of traditional Maya healers who are drawn to their profession by fate (a sign at their birth) and their dreams (Paul 1976). The paintings of rituals at sacred Maya sites such as Pascual Figure 16: “Palo Volador” by Matias Gonzalez Chavajay is a pre-Hispanic dance riutal. The angel costumes made the performance acceptably Christian. 18 banned. The earliest text we have is by Thomas Gage (1648) who described a dance about the hunt for a wild animal where the dancers dress in animal skins. Such a dance, somewhat tamed, and with the hunt dedicated to Christ to satisfy the Catholic priests, is the post-Conquest Baile de Venado. The themes of the Baile de Venado, Baile de los Animales, and Palo Volador are Figure 17: Contemporary themes have entered Tz’utuhil painting. Victor Vasquez Temó’s painting “Tren de la Muerte” depicts the experience of a neighbor who lost a leg trying to reach the U.S. 19 all pre-Conquest Maya themes. In the Baile de los Animales, the dancers believe that they are taken over by the spirit of their animal during the dance. Other dances—the Baile de los Moros y los Christianos, Baile Mexicano, and El Torito— are all dances of Spanish derivation. The most important dance to the Maya, Baile de Conquista, is the Conquest from a Maya perspective. Paintings of the cofradías may look Catholic on the surface, but the cofradías often have Maya undertones that are not obvious to outsiders. Processions, likewise, often look Christian, but they also have roots in the pre-Conquest Maya processions. While the themes of the majority of paintings deal with subjects derived from the blend of the Spanish and Maya cultures, a few do not. Tz’utuhil artists have created paintings dealing with such current topics as war, hurricanes, and illegal immigration. The atrocities that occurred in the 1980s during the time of violence are sometimes subjects. A painting from San Juan Comalapa showing men in military uniforms routing residents and burning houses is unsigned probably because the artist feared reprisals. Pedro Rafael Gonzalez Chavajay traveled to San Francisco to finish a large painting showing the massacre in Santiago Atitlan because he feared an army informant might see it in Guatemala. After the peace accords were signed, some of the artists felt safer dealing with such subjects, and occasionally they return to events of that era. Art movements are never static. Artists within them eventually branch out and explore different directions. Juan Fermin Gonzalez Morales used his military experience riding in helicopters to create the widely copied birdseye-view perspective. Julian Coche Mendoza started out as a Tz’utuhil painter, went to art school which left him lost about his direction until he created a Guatemalan version of cubism with the same Maya themes. Victor Vasquez Temó was the first Tz’utuhil artist to feature cars and buses in his paintings. Diego Isaias Hernandez was obsessed with accidents and natural disasters, but also branched out with paintings of animals sensing the spirits of the sun, the moon, and the wind. Chema Cox switched from oil to watercolor, taught his nephew to paint, and created technically brilliant, detailed, photo-realistic watercolors. Pedro Rafael Gonzalez Chavajay borrowed the idea of a triptych, but used it in a completely new way. He showed a traditional procession (three panels together) that changes in society had caused to fracture into three separate activities (each one a panel). 20 Figure 18: “Parto” by Juan Fermin Gonzalez depicts a typical campesino household where a midwife assists in the birth of a child. The bird’s eye perspective, however, is non-tradional and completely original. 21 Conclusion Contemporary Tz’utuhil Maya painting has its roots in both the pre-Hispanic Maya religion and traditions, and in the Spanish Catholic Church. Five hundred years after the Conquest, the Maya may be devout Catholics, but they did not abandon their Maya religious beliefs. By passively resisting the Spanish after the Conquest, the Maya have managed to preserve a considerable portion of their pre-Conquest culture. They have blended some of their pre- Hispanic beliefs with those of the Catholic Church, but have resisted giving up other beliefs even if they had to practice them in secret. The Tz’utuhil paintings are a compendium of these traditions both Mayan and Spanish, documenting them using a European medium, oil painting. This painting movement, however, is completely Mayan. More importantly, the paintings are by the Maya people depicting themselves and their culture. 22 Glossary Abaj. Mayan. Rock. Aguacil. Spanish. Constable or lower grade police officer. Alcalde. Spanish. Mayor. Aj’iitz. Mayan. Maya priest. Atitlán. From Nahuatl (atl, water or liquid, and -tlán, place of). Baile. Spanish. Dance Cacao. From Nahuatl, cacahuatl. The cacao tree. The bean from which chocolate is made. Campesino. Spanish. Peasant. A person who basically lives by farming the land. Cartulina. Spanish. A stiff white paper that artists use for watercolors and drawings. Cofrade. Spanish. Member of a cofradía. Cofradía. Spanish. Religious brotherhood of laymen dedicated to the care of a patron saint. Comadrona. Spanish. Midwife. Costumbre. Spanish. Custom. The Maya apply the word to their traditions, especially their Maya religious rituals. Curandero. Spanish. Traditional healer.. Finca. Spanish. Estate or agricultural plantation. Fracaso. Spanish. Failure, defeat, collapse. Hoy. Spanish. Today. Huella. Spanish. Footstep, tread, treading, impression. Hueso. Spanish. Bone. Curandero de hueso, bonesetter. Huipil. (Guipil). From Nahuatl, huipilli. Sleeveless blouse worn by Maya women. Many are handwoven, and as a result the huipil is the most personal, communicative and significant part of a woman’s attire. Those of San Pedro la Laguna used to be made of a handwoven white cloth with a machine-made collar, but now most are made from commercial cloth. Iglesia. Spanish. Church, church building. Kaqchikel. One of the Maya tribes and languages. The ancient capital of the Kaqchikeles was Iximche ouside of modern Tecpan. The north side of Lake Atitlán is populated by Kaqchikel speaking Maya. K’ichee’. One of the Maya ethnic groups and languages. The great Quiche’ Maya king Tecun Uman was defeated by conquistador Pedro de Alvarado in 1524. The ancient capital of the Quiche’ Maya was Utatlan outside of the modern city of Santa Cruz de Quiche’. Ladino. Spanish. Used in Guatemala to refer to a nonMaya person. It can also refer to a person of Maya descent who no longer speaks a Maya language, no longer wears Maya traje, and no longer identifies themselves as Maya. Maiz. Spanish. Corn. Mam. Maya name for Maximón. Mano. From Nahuatl (man-a meaning to spread or flat or smooth or to pat out tortillas). Stone grinder shaped like a rolling pin and used with a metate to give the masa the right texture to make into tortillas. Masa. Spanish. Ground corn meal used to make tortillas and tamales. Maximón. (Also known as San Simón and El Rilaj Maam). Ancient Maya god revered especially in Santiago Atitlán where many residents believe he is the creator of the Universe. Mazorca. Spanish from Arabic, masurqa. The dried ears of corn. Mayordomo. Spanish. Cofradía official. 23 Mercado. Spanish. Market place. Metate. From Nahuatl (metlapil, grinding stone). Large stone used in working or grinding corn masa. Mestizo. Spanish. A person of mixed blood. Milpa. Nahuatl. Field of maiz. Milpero. From the Nahuatl. A person who works in the cornfields. Mujer. Spanish. Woman, female. Municipalidad. Spanish. Town hall. Nahual. From Nahuatl (nahual, a socerer using spells or incantions). Obra. Spanish. Painting or work of art. Obras commericiales: paintings quickly done for the tourist market. Obras originales: fine art paintings that are claimed to be one of a kind and carefully painted. Palo. Spanish. Pole. Parto. Spanish. Childbirth, delivery. Pescador. Spanish. Fisherman from pez, pescado for fish. Patron. Spanish. Boss. Principal. Spanish. A town elder, typically a man who has previously served as mayor or head of a cofradía. Pueblo. Spanish. Town, village, people, nation. Quiche’. See K’ichee’ . Regidor. Spanish. Officer of the town council. Raiz, Raíces. Spanish. Root; Roots. Santa. Spanish. Holy. Semana. Spanish. Week. Servicio. Spanish. Obligatory term of service to the town or church. It usually lasted for a year, and alternates between the church and the municipal government. Tejedora. Spanish. Weaver. Texel. A woman member of a cofradía. Traje. Spanish. Maya attire, most often hand woven. Each town’s style and design are unique. Tzute. A square headcloth worn by Maya men. Tz’utuhil. One of the Maya ethnic groups and languages. The Tz’utuhiles live on the south side of Lake 24 Atitlán. The ancient capital of the Tz’utuhil Maya was Chiya’ on a hill at the foot of the San Pedro volcano across from present day Santiago Atitlán. Venado. Spanish. Deer. Vista de pajaro. Spanish. Bird’s-eye-view. Volador. Spanish. A person who flies. A performer in the masked dance Palo Volador. References Ades, Dawn. 1989. Art in Latin America. London, South Bank Center. Almere Read, Kay and Jason J. González. 2000. Mesomerican Mythology. Oxford University Press, NY. Asturias de Barrios, Linda. 1985. “Los pintores populares y su traje.” In Comalapa: El traje y su Significado Ediciones del Museo Ixchel, Guatemala. Becom, Jeffrey, and Sally Jean Aberg. 1997. 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