Ecuador

Transcription

Ecuador - Geodyssey

Ecuador
& the Galápagos Islands
GEODYSSEY
Ecuador
Travel notes
Welcome
Getting there
G
eodyssey is not an ordinary travel company. We started life in 1993 as a specialist for holidays to Venezuela, for which we developed a dedicated and personal style that
many people seem to like. We now offer a similarly in-depth travel service to other countries
in Latin America and the ‘green’ Caribbean including Ecuador and the Galápagos, Costa Rica, Nicaragua, and Trinidad & Tobago.
We try to offer everything that is best about a country. As each is unique what we offer is tailored to
what works best in that destination. We try to go beyond the usual tourist experience, to give you a real feel for a country in the context
of a well-organised trip that makes best use of precious time and budgets.
By really getting under the skin of the places we visit we can help you make the most of your time
there, and return with the satisfaction of a real understanding as well as having had a fabulous holiday.
It seems to work. In questionnaires our customers send us when they return from their holidays the
most frequent comment is
“This was the best holiday we have ever had”
Our philosophy is to support local economies and apply a fairly-traded travel ethos, minimise any
harmful impact on the natural environment and local cultures, and to encourage conservation wherever we can.
We concentrate on ecotourism, wildlife and outdoor activities, as well as great beaches and characterful lodges. Few of us want to do only one thing with our holiday time, so we provide you with a
wide choice. We know a great deal about organising specialist pursuits like day walks, adventurous
treks, birdwatching and scuba diving, so you can mix these in as well.
Condé Nast Traveler magazine expressed it well when they included Geodyssey in their Special
Agent List:
“This list represents those who have impressed me the most with their knowledge of specific
destinations and types of travel. They also possess a certain degree of frankness, friendliness,
taste, the willingness to work with a range of customers and budgets, and an understanding
of the types of experiences that Conde Nast Traveler readers want.”
Welcome to Ecuador and the Galápagos Islands – we hope you’ll enjoy them as much as we do!
Gillian Howe and John Thirtle
Member of the
Latin American Travel Association
Gillian Howe of Geodyssey
was chosen by Conde Nast Traveler
magazine for its ‘Special Agent List’.
Member of
Friends of Galápagos
Geodyssey has been awarded Greenstop.Net’s
highest rating for environmental and social
awareness
Printed on 100% chlorine free paper produced under ISO14001 and EMAS, using pulp from
certified Well Managed Forests.
When to visit mainland Ecuador
There are large variations in weather around the country, primarily due to differences in altitude.
In the Andes, June to September are generally drier and clearer than the rest of the year (6-7hrs of sunshine as opposed to 5-6hrs at other times). At other times, a typical sierra day would start with a sunny clear
morning, clouding over later in the afternoon perhaps with some rain. Cloud and rain are created by the
mountains, so vary widely as you move around them. There is little difference in temperature around the
year. See the weather chart for Quito.
In the Amazon, warm temperatures and high levels of humidity are the norm. It rains too (hence the
rainforest), but not as much as you might think. You would be unlucky to lose more than half a day to rain
in a 4 day visit—but it does
happen.
The Pacific Coast is popular with locals from Christmas to Easter, when it is
very hot, with mostly clear
skies but frequent showers. From June to October
it is cooler and drier but
with misty mornings. See
the chart for Guayaquil.
For seasons on the
Galápagos see page 27.
Please see our Booking Information insert for
current details of flights to Ecuador and the
Galápagos.
Accommodation
The choice of hotels and lodges on Ecuador’s
mainland depends very much on where you are.
In the major cities of Quito, Guayaquil and Cuenca
there is good selection of hotels, but elsewhere
one has to choose more carefully–though there
are some very attractive good quality characterful
hotels. We have personally visited, inspected and
often stayed overnight in, almost all the hotels
we offer.
Travel options
The choice of travel options is also good. You can
join one of our small group escorted tours, travel
independently with or without a guide, or follow
a pre-booked itinerary with a hire car.
A note of caution
Ecuador is becoming popular as a travel destination and a reasonable tourist infrastructure is
emerging, but it is still a developing country subject to sporadic inadequacies and inefficiencies. A
flexible positive attitude and a little patience will
help you to maximise your enjoyment of your trip.
Guides
Our guides are all Ecuadorians—the best person
to introduce you to a country is a local, and our
clients’ reactions support this. A good guide turns
a successful trip into a truly memorable one with
fresh insights, which foreign guides struggle to
match.
They are typically well-educated, fluent English speakers and very experienced. They know
how to make things work locally and to help put
things back on the rails if something needs to be
changed at the last minute.
Drivers and boatmen may have English which at
best is only serviceable—you will have plenty of
opportunity to practise your Spanish or your sign
language with them!
Your protection
You may book with Geodyssey in the knowledge that your
money is completely protected.
Geodyssey holds an ATOL
licence, supervised by the Civil
Aviation Authority. The CAA make
stipulations as to our paid-up
share capital to help make sure
that we stay in business, and they
require us to lodge a bond as surety so that clients who buy domestic or international flights as
part of the holiday they purchase from us will be
protected should the company fail. The protection afforded by the ATOL bond extends primarily
to customers who book and pay in the United
Kingdom.
It is not widely recognised that this system
does not protect those who do not buy any
flights. Geodyssey also protects these customers
by safeguarding the money paid for their holiday
in a trust administered by solicitors, until their
holiday is complete.
The air holidays in this brochure are ATOL protected by the Civil Aviation Authority. Our ATOL
number is 5292.
Contact us
Geodyssey Ltd
116 Tollington Park
London N4 3RB England
www.geodyssey.co.uk
Tel: 020 7281 7788
Fax: 020 7281 7878
Email: enquiries@geodyssey.co.uk
GEODYSSEY LTD REGISTERED OFFICE: 116 TOLLINGTON PARK LONDON N4 3RB REGISTERED IN ENGLAND: NO 2782574
A welcome in fireworks, Cuenca. JT
Cotopaxi reflected in Limpiopungo Lagoon. Murray Cooper
Ecuador
Ecuador
A
miles away but clear to the eye. Between the
two sierras the land, though never level, supports generations of the hard working farmers
now rubbing their eyes as the cock crows.
The sun rises over thousands of miles of Amazon forest to the east, lighting up the wisps of
vapour breathed by the sleeping trees. There,
cooking fires are warming families who live on
what the forest can provide, as howler monkeys
greet the day with their roars and countless
birds strike up morning calls.
Cradled under Pichincha volcano, across from
your vantage point, the street lights of Quito tell
a different story, one assembled from centuries
of change going back to the time of the Inca
Atahualpa, and beyond into unrecorded history. Razed by generals, rebuilt by priests, and
governed from Madrid for nearly three hundred
years, its streets will soon be busy with a life that
looks as much to New York as it does to the past.
t dawn, after one of those chilly
nights that leaves the air as clear as glass,
you can see a large part of mainland Ecuador from the top of Cotopaxi, the volcano in
the photograph above.
The deep lowland forest comes right to the
foot of the mountains and flows up them, transforming itself to cloud forest as tropical downpours turn to cool Andean mists. The mountains
flow to the north and south, punctuated by
volcanic peaks some of which, like Cotopaxi, are
young enough to grumble, steam and threaten,
and tall enough to gleam with snow.
Far into the Pacific, beyond the plantations
that lead to the coast, lie the Galápagos, Ecuador’s distant possession. On islands formed by
volcanoes that came from the sea bed and iso-
lated by 600 miles of ocean, life has adapted in
new ways that helped to inspire Darwin’s theory
of evolution. Today there has been so little contact with man that animals there have no particular fear of us and allow us the great privilege
of being tolerated in their presence.
Travelling around Ecuador is a lesson on how
a great deal can be packed into a small space—
not that you could begin to see it all from
Cotopaxi. We hope this brochure will help to
show the wonderful landscapes, many different
traditional cultures, and fabulous biodiversity
that Ecuador offers. With some good hotels to
choose from, reasonably easy travel, and support for activities from climbing to birdwatching,
Ecuador also offers a very warm welcome.
In the still dark west, the Pacific Ocean waits
for the day beyond a second sierra of the Andes,
with its own rich cloud forests and snowy tops
culminating in the mighty Chimborazo—sixty
Contents
Ecuador
3
Quito and the Northern Andes
4
Central Andes
6
Cuenca and the Southern Andes
8
Amazon
10
Guayaquil and the Pacific
11
Ecuador Odyssey small group holiday
12
Independent touring
14
Self-drive
19
Walking, trekking and riding
20
Birdwatching
22
Galápagos
24
Galápagos islands
26
Galápagos cruises
29
Add-ons
31
Peru, Venezuela and Bonaire
31
GEODYSSEY
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ECUADOR
www.geodyssey.co.uk/ecuador
reservations: 020 7281 7788
Street in the Old City, Quito. JT
The city of Quito and Cotopaxi volcano. Murray Cooper
Ecuador
Quito and the northern Andes
Q
uito’s large, well preserved, historic quarter of cobbled streets and impressive colonial buildings, many with
ornate façades and richly decorated interiors, is
a UNESCO Cultural World Heritage site.
The city was founded a thousand years ago as the
centre of the Kingdom of Quito, an alliance of regional
tribes that eventually formed the northern part of the
Incan empire. Razed in the conquest, Quito was reconstructed under the Spanish who built 40 churches and
16 convents and monasteries with cloisters, plazas,
courtyards, chapter rooms and refectories. They combined European renaissance and baroque styles with
indigenous and mestizo influences, often reusing Incan
foundations and recycling fine Incan stone blocks. The
result is a uniquely Andean capital, connecting centuries of changing civilisations.
At the centre of the whitewashed walls and pan-tiled
roofs of the Old City is the Plaza de la Independencia,
a large and attractive square impressively surrounded
by the four pillars of colonial society: the Cathedral,
Presidential Palace, Archbishop’s Palace and Municipal
Palace (now a modern replacement). With its well kept
flower beds this bustling location makes a good place
for the city’s well-to-do to congregate and talk, with
a few having their shoes shined while they watch the
world go by.
Beyond the Old City, Quito is developing fast. Constrained by the steep sides of Pichincha volcano to the
west, the new city extends north and east, with busy
commercial streets, trendy shopping areas, modern
museums and city parks giving way to light industry,
poor barrios and comfortable suburbs. The Mariscal
area is conveniently central, and has good shops, restaurants and hotels.
There are about a thousand private homes amid
the fine religious and public buildings of the Old City.
The most prestigious 19th century houses have three
internal courtyards. The first, opening to the street,
was used for receiving visitors and typically has a
fountain in the centre. The second was for household
chores such as drying the laundry, and the third was
for livestock such as hens, guinea pigs and horses. For
a glimpse inside one of these houses we recommend
a visit to the highly decorated María Augusta Urrutia
Museum. Quito’s altitude of 10,000 feet tempers the equatorial
heat to that of a year round Mediterranean spring. Take
it easy for the first few days while your red blood cells
adjust to the noticeably thinner air.
The middle of the world
To meet the need for religious art for the new churches the Spanish encouraged local painters and sculptors
to adopt the European style, creating a blend of indigenous and European art that became known as the
Quito School. In sculpture the features of Christ and
the saints are European but the proportions of their
bodies are Andean: broad-chested and short-legged.
Andean plants and animals were introduced, and sun
motifs were incorporated into church decoration. The
great artists in this tradition worked between 1660 and
1765, but today a school for street children teaches the
historic techniques and is open to visitors.
The Virgin of Quito, a painting by Bernardo de Legarda, a master of the Quito School, was the inspiration
for the 30m high statue that stands on El Panecillo hill
overlooking the Old City. It depicts the Virgin Mary
with silvery wings standing on an orb with a serpent
curled around her feet and chained to her arm.
The pre-Hispanic people of the Kingdom of Quito
knew full well that they lived at the equator: they had
solar observatories and temples to the sun and used
astronomical measurements to govern their agricultural calendar. To underline the point, the original meaning of ‘Quito’ is said to be ‘centre of the earth’.
In European terms, the location of zero degrees of
latitude was first derived by a mission led by Charles
Marie de la Condamine in 1736, when Ecuador was still
part of the Viceroyalty of Peru. A sturdy monument set
in a small theme park now straddles the French line in
celebration of this triumph of geodesy, which by measuring the length of a degree of latitude proved that the
earth bulges at the equator and thereby that Newton’s
theory of gravity was superior to Descartes’.
200m to the north the eclectic Inti-Ñan museum is
positioned at 00°.00’.00’’ latitude according to modern
GPS measurements and provides an off-beat take on
equatorial phenomena such as spiralling bath water
and eggs balanced on the point of a nail, with an introduction to how local people lived in the olden days.
GEODYSSEY
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ECUADOR
www.geodyssey.co.uk/ecuador Street dancing in the Old City, Quito. JT
Patio of Convent of La Merced, Quito. Murray Cooper
Entering from the heat of the equatorial sunshine
through huge carved doors into the cool dark interior
of a colonial church in the Old City you are first met by
the rich scent of incense from palo santo wood. The
interior sparkles with hundreds of twinkling devotional
candles. On approaching the central aisle a vast altar
gilded in gold or silver leaf succeeds in its intention of
instilling awe. The most ornate, the Church of La Com-
pañía de Jesús, constructed by the Jesuits in 1605, has
a lace-work façade of twisted columns, sacred hearts
and cherubs carved in volcanic rock, while the inside
was laden with a reputed 7 tonnes of gold leaf. One
can only imagine the impact such temples made on
local people whose worship of the sun was to be converted to the worship of the Christian deity.
Virgin, El Panecillo, Quito
Maize sellers in Otavalo Market. JT
Ecuador’s regions
At Otavalo, a small town two hours north of Quito, the
craft traditions of indigenous Ecuadorians take centre
stage. Its Saturday market is widely reckoned to be the
biggest and best in South America for textiles, ethnic
jewellery, and traditional crafts. Rows and rows of wellstocked stalls offer countless variations on traditional
themes, many adapted to visitors’ current tastes. A
large food market and animal market complete the
scene. The craft and food markets continue in smaller
form throughout the week.
Otavalo men wear black hats over long black hair
tied in a single plait, with a blue poncho, white trousers
and sandals. Women choose colourfully embroidered
white blouses beneath finely woven shoulder wraps
and as many chunky gold necklaces as they can decently afford, with a full black skirt (often finished with
a gold braided hem) adorned with an intricately woven
cloth belt.
In colonial times the indigenous people of Otavalo
were put to work in obrajes, or weaving workshops,
to produce textiles, wool and cotton for their Spanish
masters. Though the skills of the craft were instilled by
force, today they are cherished and passed from each
generation to the next. Otavaleños now stand out as
proud examples of prosperity and cultural confidence
that other highland communities are becoming keen
to emulate.
For travel ideas see: ‘Ecuador Odyssey’ (small group, p12),
‘Independent Ecuador Odyssey’ (p14), ‘Haciendas of Distinction’ (p16), ‘Day walks in the Andes’ (p20), ‘Cotopaxi
Ascent’ (p21) and ‘Birds of Northern Ecuador’ (p23).
Antisana and Papallacta
To the east of Quito, the only road rises to a high
pass between the four snow-capped peaks of Antisana
volcano (5,758m) to the south and the mountains of
Cordillero El Diviso to the north, both of which are
protected ecological reserves.
There are excellent short walks in the hills near the
road in landscapes of open páramo (high moorlands),
forested ravines, rocky outcrops and glaciated lakes. It
is often possible to see condors cruising the sky.
Back at ground level this area is rich in thermal waters and a stop in the hot springs and spa at Papallacta
is a must.
Mindo cloud forests
The western mountains shield Quito from the moist
air of the Pacific, which saturates their seaward slopes.
Here dense cloud forests provide some of the most
biodiverse environments on the planet as birdwatchers, orchid specialists and butterfly enthusiasts will
testify. The pleasant small town of Mindo has come to
be the focus for ecotourism visitors to the area, with
small lodges in the town and its surroundings.
Hummingbirds are a particular favourite, zipping be-
View of cloudforest from Nono-Mindo road. JT
There are many craft workshops in villages around
Otavalo where you can see a range of crafts in action
The caldera of several of Ecuador’s extinct volcanoes
are now filled by crater lakes. The most accessible of
these is the beautiful Laguna Cuicocha (‘Guinea Pig
Lake’ in Quichua), situated just north of Otavalo on
the southern slopes of Cotacachi volcano. Islands in
the lake resemble a pair of guinea pigs, and are said
to have been used as a prison by the Incas. A pleasant
day’s walking takes you around the rim of the crater,
with llamas carrying your lunch.
tween the feeders that lodge owners provide, displaying a staggering variety of plumage in metallic greens,
blues, rusts and oranges, some with exuberantly long
bills, others with impressive tails, wacky little crests or
even little ‘boots’ of white feathers.
Booted Racket-Tail, Phil Farrer
Otavalo
from traditional weaving on shuttle and backstrap
looms, to pan pipes being made (and played).
Phil Farrer
Modern Ecuadorians take pride in their position in
the middle of the world. Not only did it name their
country, the equator brings unexpected benefits such
as the ability to grow long straight-stemmed roses,
now exported far and wide.
GEODYSSEY
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ECUADOR
Llama, Chugchilán. JT
Wedding guests, Quilotoa. JT
Ecuador
Central Andes
W
onderful scenery is coMmonplace almost everywhere you travel in
the Andes, but the central highlands
south of Quito offer some of the loveliest mountain scenery in the country. The fertile valley
between the main eastern and western sierras
has been heavily populated since pre-Incan
times. Large haciendas control the best land on
the valley floor, while higher slopes are farmed
by Quichua-speaking families who wring small
crops of potatoes and maize from precipitous
fields and terraces. Their winding lanes and
peaceful hamlets, coupled with immense views,
volcanic peaks, beautiful crater lakes, and ‘perpetual spring’ weather, make many parts of the
sierras especially good for walking and trekking.
The Incan Royal Road between Quito and Cusco in
Peru followed the valley’s contours, as does the modern Pan-American Highway and the old railway line,
whose westward branch plunges down the Devil’s
Nose towards the Pacific.
the western chain, while seen to the east are Pasochoa
(4,199m), Rumiñahui (4,712m), Cotopaxi (5,897m),
Quilindaña (4,877m), Tungurahua (5,029m), El Altar
(5,319m), and Sangay (5,230m). The snow-line is usually around 5,000m.
The most impressive of these are Cotopaxi and Chimborazo.
Springs and spas Because of the geothermal activity in
the Andes sulphur baths and hot springs are a welcome diversion. Whatever their therapeutic claims,
the experience of bathing outside in steaming bubbly
water after a day in the highlands is not to be missed.
Some, such as those in Baños are aimed at the local
family market, while others, notably Termas Papallacta
in the north, make foreign visitors and sophisticated
spa enthusiasts from Quito their priority.
Cotopaxi is one of the highest active volcanoes in the
world. Its perfectly symmetrical cone covered in a thick
blanket of snow and ice rises gracefully from a beautiful high plain of grasslands grazed by herds of wild
horses who gather to drink at the lovely Limpiopungo
lagoon–a good spot for waterfowl and other birds,
with the jagged white peaks of nearby Rumiñahui
volcano reflected in its surface.
Walking in Cotopaxi National Park you will notice
volcanic debris of pumice and ash amid the tiny
páramos plants. On a day trip it is possible to drive as
high as 4,600m (15,092ft) on the slopes of the volcano
then hike up a scree to reach the snout of its glacier at
4,800m (15,748ft). The thinness of the air means this
short distance can take well over an hour.
In this part of Ecuador, the Andes are at their most
volcanic, with over fifty peaks (a good number of them
active) pushing upwards from the colliding tectonic
plates below. Alexander von Humboldt described the
route south from Quito to Riobamba as the ‘Avenue of
the Volcanoes’, with the peaks of the twin sierras arrayed on either side.
Chimborazo, long extinct, is the tallest mountain in
Ecuador. Due to the bulge in the Earth at the equator
its summit is the furthest point from the centre of the
planet, surpassing even Everest. It was first climbed by
English climber Edward Whymper in 1880. Day walkers
who have acclimatised well to the altitude can trek to
the edge of the glacier with ‘los hieleros’ (the ice men)
who collect blocks of ice every week to supply stallholders in Riobamba market.
Driving south on the Pan American Highway on a
fine day gives dramatic views of Pichincha (4,675m),
Atacazo (4,463m), Corazón (4,788m), Ilinizas (5,248m),
Carihuayrazo (5,028m) and Chimborazo (6,310m) in
Quilotoa ‘loop’ Laguna Quilotoa is a breathtaking emerald green lake lying hidden until the very last moment
behind the steep walls of a 3km wide volcanic caldera.
It is well worth walking from the crater’s rim down to
GEODYSSEY
Haciendas
Several of Ecuador’s haciendas—large private estates
scattered throughout the highlands—make characterful and comfortable places to stay in a variety of styles
and sizes, from sprawling mansions to ancient farmhouses much adapted over generations.
The best land in the highlands was parcelled out to
the conquistadors and the settlers that followed in the
form of encomiendas—entitlements to tributes in cash,
produce and labour from the ‘indians’ (a hated name,
‘indígenas’—indigenous people—is much preferred).
In return the settlers were entrusted to convert their
charges to Christianity. Initially a practical encouragement to colonisation with altruistic overtones, the
system became subverted to the simple accumulation
of wealth, reducing indigenous people to extreme
poverty and serfdom.
By the late 1690s the encomiendas were in decline as
the indigenous population was reduced by epidemics,
Quilotoa crater lake. JT
The Avenue of the Volcanoes
the lake shore 300m below, returning by mule. A small
country road passes near the crater and links a number
of local villages in a circular route, each with its own
character. The larger villages hold markets on different
days of the week: at Saquisilí, the Thursday market fills
seven small plazas and connecting streets. Naïve paintings are a speciality of Tigua.
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Riding the Devil’s Nose Train
Santa Bárbara Cathedral, Riobamba. JT
Ecuador’s regions
The haciendas’ land has been significantly reduced
by further reforms, and their owners have diversified.
Many now receive paying guests. Origins aside, they
are fascinating places to stay, often set in beautiful
gardens, furnished with family heirlooms, and with log
fires lit against the evening air of the mountains. Horse
riding is commonly available but note that few can
supply hard hats, so bring your own if you wish to ride.
Indigenous peoples
On any visit to the Andes you will certainly see a great
many people wearing traditional dress of many kinds.
The strength and vibrancy of indigenous cultures,
which have persisted since pre-Incan times, gives the
highlands a special flavour.
A quarter of Ecuador’s population are indigenous.
The largest of the indigenous ‘nations’ is the Quichua,
who are spread in various groupings throughout the
highlands and in Peru (where the spelling is ‘Quechua’).
Quichua is their language of choice, though most are
bilingual in Quichua and Spanish.
Traditional costume is used in the highlands to show
one’s standing as a true runa (Quichua for ‘person’) and
to denote the local community to which you belong.
Señora Pilla. Salasaca. JT
GEODYSSEY
How you wear your clothes is important too: a shawl
tied with a knot indicates an unmarried woman,
whereas a clasp or ornate pin shows she is married.
Keeping up appearances nourishes a craft industry
that extends through every village and almost every
household. You will see ladies spinning yarn by hand,
even while carrying a load of fire-wood along a mountain trail. Skeins of dyed wool dry on washing lines,
sheaves of toquilla straw for hats hang to dry by the
road, and home weavers work looms of uniquely Ecuadorian design.
Devil’s Nose train
‘The most difficult railway in the world’ was built between 1899 and 1908 to link Guayaquil on the Pacific
coast and Quito in the highlands. The greatest of many
obstacles along the route was a forbidding rock face
known as the Devil’s Nose, half a mile high. To climb
this near vertical wall of rock engineers carved zigzag
cuttings allowing trains to make the ascent in forward
and backward stages.
The new railway was hailed as a triumph of railway
engineering and was one of the great railway journeys
of the world. Travelling on the roof of the train on
surviving sections of track through the Andean countryside and down the formidable Devil’s Nose section is
an experience not to be missed.
For travel ideas please see: ‘Ecuador Odyssey’ (p12) and
Independent Ecuador Odyssey’ (p14), ‘Haciendas of Distinction’ (p16), and ‘Day Walks in the Andes’ (p20).
All this creativity can be seen, and bought, in markets throughout the highlands, in different villages
according to the day of the week. It’s a time for locals
to socialise and catch up on news, as well as browse
colourful displays of textiles, clothes and hats, bulging
sacks of maize, quinoa, lima beans and potatoes, piles
of fruit, chilli peppers and spices, and useful assortments of buckets, rope and utensils.
It is more than likely that at some stage your visit will
coincide with a village fiesta, may be to celebrate a day
in the traditional calendar—perhaps a solstice or equinox, a Catholic holy day or saint’s day, or a local wedding. Each is celebrated at length and with fervour.
Band performing at village wedding, Quilotoa. JT
Different styles, designs, and colours of ponchos
and blouses, skirts and trousers, belts and hair bands
are worn by the men and women of each highland
community. Hats too show where you are from. Felt
trilbies trimmed with peacock feathers are favoured by
men and women around Quilotoa. Around Riobamba,
Cañaris wear straw bonnets of the type our grandmothers wore to school, while their neighbours, the
Puruwas, choose white straw bowlers. The Salasaca, in
the south, wear broad brimmed white hats with ponchos and shawls dyed the darkest blue-black in mourning for the Inca Atahualpa.
Rufous-collared Sparrow. Phil Farrer
drought and earthquakes. They were replaced by the
hacienda estates and a new system of serfdom called
huasipungo. The workers’ obligations continued but
they were allowed tiny allotments in which they were
expected to grow their families’ food in their spare
time. Typically these plots were on the steepest, least
fertile parts of the estate. This system was not replaced
until a 1964 land reform which entitled the indígenas
to own land their families had farmed for centuries.
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ECUADOR
La Barranco & Tomebamba River, Cuenca. JT
New’ Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, Cuenca. JT
Ecuador
Cuenca and the southern Andes
The streets of present-day Cuenca are filled with the
life of a provincial capital, with a host of small shops
and colourful markets. Fronting the central plaza is
the rather splendid ‘New’ Cathedral, started in 1885. Its
large blue-tiled domes, towers, arches and buttresses
present an impressive sight, and contain below them a
large nave that addresses one of the most ornate gilded altars one could wish to see, spangled by the light
from windows lavishly furnished with stained glass.
At the other end of the square is the Old Cathedral (El
Sagrario), a much more humble building with whitewashed walls (incorporating some Incan stonework)
and a single bell tower.
Further south, a jumble of much older mountains replaces the volcanic peaks and high plains of the central
Andes and makes life hard and travel slow. Well off the
beaten track, Podocarpus National Park attracts dedicated birdwatchers and the small town of Vilcabamba
on a back road to Peru was once reputed to hold the
secret of eternal youth.
Cuenca
Capital of the south, Cuenca is a comfortable rather reserved city with a well-preserved and restored colonial
centre that has earned it UNESCO World Heritage Site
status. Its cobbled streets, colonial churches and whitewashed buildings echo those of Quito, on a smaller
scale, with a quieter provincial air, and at a lower altitude. Situated in a fertile valley at the confluence of
four rivers, it enjoys the perpetual spring climate of the
highlands.
Ingapirca
The Incan empire began to expand in Peru in 1438
and spread into Ecuador through a series of conquests
and alliances dating from 1516. Less than twenty
years later it had been extinguished by the Incan civil
war and the Spanish conquest. In this short space
of time it had a remarkable effect, both culturally
in the organisation of society and the introduction
of the Quichua language, and physically in terms of
roads and buildings. The most important Incan site
in Ecuador is at Ingapirca, north of Cuenca. Here a
temple complex incorporating classic Inca stonework
with precisely fitted ‘pillow’ blocks is built upon earlier
Cañari structures.
Many of Cuenca’s more important buildings are
made in the colonial baroque style using locally quarried marble. The houses of the well-to-do, mostly
dating from Cuenca’s heyday, reserve the best of their
charms to graceful inner courtyards. The wealth of
those times is evident not only from the size of the
houses but also their interior décor: one private mansion boasts wall-coverings of stamped enamelled tin
plate specially imported from Europe to resemble the
embossed leather that was fashionable at the time.
Ingapirca lies in a graceful setting on a low hill. At its
centre is a substantially intact temple of the sun, with
inwardly tapering walls of supremely well-fitted stone
blocks and a trapezoidal doorway, hallmarks of the
finest Incan construction. Laid out around the temple
are the low remains of a great plaza, and of a good
number of buildings that must have included official
residences, stores, houses, barracks and a tambo or
inn for travellers on the Royal Road between Quito
and Cusco in Peru.
The boom times of the late nineteenth and early
twentieth century came partly from the export of
quinine, harvested from the bark of the local cascarilla
tree for the treatment for malaria, and partly from the
Panama hat industry. Small workshops in the town
apply the final stages of production to semi-finished
hats drawn from the ‘craft villages’ (see below), and
export the results all over the world. The trade route
first passed through Panama from which the hats
took their name in Europe, a sleight that still rankles.
The nearby town of Cañar is notable for fine weaving and its busy Sunday market.
Cajas National Park
The road from Cuenca to Guayaquil and the Pacific
coast winds through a high pass in Cajas National
Park. At the top of the pass, the Andean watershed
Guest house near Ingapirca. JT
View of illuminated Cuenca from Turi. JT
Cuenca dates back to AD 500, and was a notable
Cañari settlement when the Incas expanded north
from Peru to establish their city of ‘Tomebamba’ as one
of the very finest of its day. But all was soon laid low in
the Incan civil war between rival brothers Atahualpa
and Huascar. The Spanish rebuilt the city in a fine
renaissance style, with well-laid out streets and plazas.
Cuenca’s architecture, much of which dates from the
If Panamas are your style then spend the extra to buy
a superfino that can be rolled up in your luggage but
will spring back into perfect shape for the Members
Pavilion at Lord’s.
18th century, was ‘modernized’ in the economic prosperity of the 19th century.
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www.geodyssey.co.uk/ecuador Inca Ruins, Ingapirca. JT
C
uenca is a very attractive and historic city with strong echoes of its colonial and prosperous early republican past.
To its north, Ingapirca is the most important
Incan site in Ecuador, and Cajas National Park offers wonderful highland landscapes for walkers.
A string of villages, each with its own heritage
of traditional crafts, lies among the warm valleys
south-east of the city.
Craft villages
GEODYSSEY
Fruit and flowers are grown in these warm valleys.
An orchid farm is open to visitors, and here and there
small family farms offer decent guest accommodation
with the opportunity to help milk the cows and walk or
ride country trails in a rural idyll far from any road.
A maze of older, lower, mountain ranges whose valleys
have long lost their fertility, give southernmost Ecuador a quiet remoteness. In Saragura, the local Salasaca
dress in black or dark blue out of mourning, it is said,
for the Inca Atahualpa who, as every schoolboy knows,
was captured by Pizarro’s small band of men at the
start of the conquest and shamefully executed despite
the delivery of a huge ransom in gold.
Beyond Loja, a quiet county town, lies Podocarpus
National Park, whose forests over a great range of
altitudes make it an important destinations for serious
birders. Nearby Vilcabamba enjoyed a period of fame
in the 1970s when the Readers Digest claimed it was
home to many centenarians, including an ancient of
128. The claims were discredited but the idea has stuck
and the town has become home to ex-pats fostering
an alternative lifestyle in the ‘Valley of Eternal Youth’.
For travel ideas see ‘Ecuador Odyssey’ (p12), ‘Haciendas of
Distinction’ (p16), ‘Avenue of the Volcanoes and the Devil’s
Nose Train’ (p18), ‘Horse Riding and life on the farm’ (p21),
and ‘Birds of Southern Ecuador’ (p23).
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Gold filigree earrings, Chordeleg. JT
The deep south
Panama hat making
Inca stonework, Ingapirca. JT
Gualaceo, Chordeleg and Sigsig are not names that
trip easily off an English tongue, but these three small
towns are famous in Ecuador for their markets and the
handicrafts produced here and in surrounding villages.
In this region the rich culture of the cholos cuencanos,
whose ancestry mixes Inca, Cañari and Spanish blood,
sits confidently between the indígenas and the whites.
Traditional cholo dress includes Panama hats for both
men and women, and richly coloured ponchos, usually
burgundy or red—upgraded to beautifully woven ikat
ponchos for fiestas.
Near Chordeleg, San Bartolomé specialises in guitar
making, and San Juan is a centre for Panama hat weaving. Back strap looms are favoured by weavers of ikat
dyed shawls, belts and other traditional items.
Salasaca lady, hand spinning with silver shawl fastening. JT
The park’s walking trails follow truly remarkable
scenery, making for some really lovely day walks and
longer treks. In contrast to the sharp young peaks of
the central highlands, the older mountains of Cajas
have been glaciated to leave a landscape of craggy
hills, gentle valleys, rocky outcrops and more than 300
lakes–a unique environment that has been accorded
RAMSAR protection. Elfin forests of polylepis ‘paper
bark’ trees are very characteristic. The peeling reddish
bark of these twisted trees protects them from being
overwhelmed by the weight of epiphytes, bromeliads
and arboreal ferns which cling to their branches. The
forest floor is carpeted in deep velvety mosses. The
whole effect is of a mythical forest in which Bilbo Baggins might appear at any moment. In remote areas
dense cloudforests are home to a few remaining spectacled bear and possibly mountain tapir, while wild
llamas and alpacas graze the open grasslands in good
numbers. The park holds special attractions for birdwatchers (see page 24).
The region is home to artisans of all kinds: embroiderers, weavers of ikat and other textiles, Panama hats
and baskets, gold and silversmiths producing fine
filigree and other jewellery, wood carvers and potters.
Valley of Eternal Youth, Vilcabamba. JT
is closest to the Pacific: a raindrop falling here could
travel just 200 miles westward to the coast, or more
than 4,000 miles east to the Atlantic.
Panama hat straw drying, near Chordeleg. JT
Cajas National Park. JT
Ecuador’s regions
Sacha Lodge landing stage. JT
Rainforest giant. Napo River. JT
Ecuador
Amazon
E
astwards, the Andes descend
quickly from the sierras, losing 10,000ft in
altitude in less than 30 miles. By this point
the Amazon basin has already started although
it is will be another 2,000 miles before the land
descends the final 1,000ft to meet the sea.
Rainforest tourism is a growth activity for Ecuador,
with a scattering of small lodges close to the mountains. The principal three lodges down the Napo river:
Napo Wildlife Centre, La Selva, and Sacha Lodge, are
the best situated and best fulfil their role. Each provides a good level of comfort, knowledgable guides,
and excellent opportunities to experience the forest
from trails, by boat, and from canopy towers.
Throughout Ecuador’s rainforests there are people
following a life of hunting, gathering, and subsistence
farming. It is a privilege to meet them, to hear about
their communities, their use of the forest, the skills of
their shamans, and the proper use of a blow-pipe or
bow and arrow. Such contact brings its own responsibilities so that local people control the impact on their
communities and earn a just reward. Yachana Lodge
(see page 15) in particular is working with this in mind.
Common squirrel monkey
View of rainforest from canopy tower. JT
Weaving a basket. Amazon. Phil Farrer
For travel ideas see ‘Ecuador Odyssey’ (p12), ‘Andes,
Amazon and Galápagos’ (p15), and ‘Birds of the Amazon’
(p25). Details of lodges are provided on page 14.
What will you see in the Amazon? First, there is an
astonishing variety of trees and forest plants, many
10
9-banded armadillo. Phil Farrer
Beyond Coca, the habitat is little touched and you are
rapidly in the world of the rainforest and its peoples.
Today, Coca, which has a small airport and can also be
reached by road from the mountains, is a setting off
point for a small number of wildlife lodges a few hours
further down the river that are accessible only by boat.
Most large animals, such as tapir and jaguar, are very
hard to find. They can easily slip away in a jungle where
sight-lines are short, and where local people are hunters they have every reason to do so. Monkeys are quite
easy to see, including howlers with their compelling
eerie roar, lively spider monkeys that crash overhead
in family troupes, and little capuchin monkeys that
delicately clamber on lower branches, unsure whether
to be curious or fearful. You may also see one or two
of the smaller squirrel monkeys, marmosets and tamarinds, capybara and perhaps an armadillo or an anteater. Agoutis are common, but as lunch on legs for many
predators including man, they are understandably
nervy. Rivers and lakes generally produce caiman and
piranhas, with giant otters and anacondas a possibility.
Heliconia. Phil Farrer
The little town of Coca lies where the Río Coca joins
the Río Napa, which eventually joins the Amazon.
Though Coca is only 40 miles from the sierras, it is at
the edge of the rainforest (and would be well within
the forest but for man’s activities—farms are expanding and oil has been found nearby). Coca is also called
Puerto Francisco de Orellana, after the Spanish captain who set off downriver in 1541 to find food for a
stranded party of soldiers. Orellana claimed the weight
of water flowing from the Andes was so strong his boat
could not return; instead he carried on—reaching the
mouth of the Amazon over a year later.
Phil Farrer
with unusual survival mechanisms or folk uses. There is
much to learn from the smaller things—flashing blue
morpho butterflies, tiny colourful frogs, leaf cutter and
army ants. And then there are birds. In this part of the
amazon the number of different bird species is staggering—each Napo river lodge has recorded well over
500. Clay licks provide macaws, parrots and parrakeets
with a digestif against the toxins that forest trees use to
protect their fruit.
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Machalilla National Park
Santa Ana Hill from river, Guayaquil. JT
Ecuador’s regions
Guayaquil and the Pacific coast
T
he Andes fall away rapidly to the
west, leaving a broad swathe of lowlands
between cloud forested hills and the
Pacific coast. The western lowlands are home to
half the country’s population, with a different
racial mix that includes an African heritage from
the slave trade that brings an easy-going style
in contrast to the more conservative life of the
highlands. Banana growing and shrimp farming
are prime activities here.
Guayaquil
Life in the country’s largest city is one of everyday
commercial bustle. As the local saying goes, ‘Guayaquil
earns the money, Quito spends it’.
A cruise along the river frontage overlooking the
muddy waters of the wide Guayas river, presents a
diorama of the city’s history. The wealth brought by
the cacao trade, when Ecuador was the world’s largest
exporter, is exemplified by the Mercado Sur, a palace of
iron and glass designed and prefabricated in France by
Eiffel himself; it is now an exhibition space. Dockside
wharfs and warehouses convey the importance of the
maritime trade, while the new Yacht Club expresses
the city’s international cool—a theme extended by the
new ‘Malecon 2000’, an attractive broad promenade
of gardens, fountains, shops and restaurants that has
helped the city to redefine itself with new confidence.
Many of the fine buildings behind the Malecon have
been impeccably restored.
Other sights around the city include a modern cathedral fronted by a plaza whose trees are home to a
profusion of iguanas, who come to the ground to be
fed like ducks in the park. There are good Botanical
Gardens too.
Ruta del Sol
From Chile to Peru, the Pacific coast of South America
is chilled by the cold waters of the Humboldt current.
Fortunately, its influence stops well south of Guayaquil
so Ecuador’s Pacific coast enjoys the warm waters of
the tropics and many days of clear skies.
Resorts close to the city can be crowded, but the
‘Ruta del Sol’, the coast road north of Salinas to Manta,
is a delight. Broadly speaking, the further north you go
the quieter and nicer the beaches and coastal villages
become, with a scattering of small hotels. Salinas itself
has high rise blocks that attract the local well-to-do
in la temporada—Ecuadorians’ holiday season from
December to April.
Machalilla NP
Towards the northern end of the Ruta del Sol, Machalilla national park is a real jewel. The main section of
the park protects a full transect of vegetation from
arid scrub and tropical dry forest near the sea, through
moist forest, up to true cloud forest: great for hiking,
birdwatching and just being out and about.
Within the park, the indigenous Manteño community
of Agua Blanca welcomes visitors. Volunteers show you
their village and the smallholdings where they grow
grenadines, papaya, mango, oranges, limes, maize,
chilli and much more. At the river the village laundry is
washed by hand using the fruit of the barbasco tree as
GEODYSSEY
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a soap. You may be invited to bathe in a sacred sulphur
lake, where the whole community gathers for ceremonial bathing at solstices and equinoxes. A viewpoint
looks from this dry lightly forested area towards the
lush hills of San Sebastián.
An archaeological site near the village has been
excavated to reveal the remains of three solar centres
for measuring the sun’s motion and a large ceremonial
hall where stone jaguar thrones were positioned every
5 paces. A small museum contains relics and artifacts
including thrones, funerary urns, tattoo stamps and
spondylus shells which were used as currency. It is a
fascinating glimpse of pre-Incan society, made possible by its direct descendants.
Also within the park is the beautiful bay of Los Frailes:
a paradisiacal long sweep of fine sand, with little shade.
Isla de la Plata
9km offshore, Isla de la Plata is a small uninhabited
island skirted by cliffs. It is home to colonies of Nazca,
blue-footed and red-footed boobies, magnificent frigatebirds and, seasonally, waved albatross. Sea lion and
fur seals are occasional visitors.
Isla de la Plata is well worth a visit at any time of year.
Between June and October, Humpback Whales are
regularly seen in the surrounding waters, along with
large schools of dolphin and pods of Sperm, Pilot, False
Killer and Killer Whales.
It is quite a stretch to compare Isla de la Plata with the
Galápagos Islands, but the very pleasant day trip to
the island goes some way to indicate what is on offer
600km further into the Pacific.
For travel ideas see ‘Pacific coast’ and ‘Pacific beach’ on
page 19.
Humpback Whale off Pacific coast
Masked / Nazca Boobies, Isla de la Plata. JT
At the end of the walkway, steps lead up to the
lighthouse and church on Santa Ana Hill. This area was
formerly a slum but with great vision and the support
of local residents its large wooden houses have been
renovated and colourfully painted, and the area turned
into a pleasant mix of housing, gift shops, art galleries
and cafés.
11
Trapezoidal Incan doorway, Ingapirca
Market in the main square, Gualaceo. JT
Ecuador
Ecuador Odyssey
O
ur small group ‘grand’ tour of
mainland Ecuador visits many of its
classic highlights in a trip combining
Andean highland scenery, impressive Spanish
colonial architecture, dramatic volcanoes, spectacular wildlife and birds, plus insights into the
rich cultures and crafts of Ecuador’s indigenous
peoples.
We stay in well-located comfortable tourist class hotels and lodges throughout and spend a good amount
of time in each region, with lots to see and do each
day. We are escorted by an experienced knowledgeable local guide with excellent English. The tour ends
in Guayaquil—ideal for flights home or optional extensions to the Galápagos Islands.
gilded altars and aromas of candles and wood incense.
Otavalo
We drive to El Panecillo where the statue of the Virgin
of Quito stands above the Old City. There are great
views across the city to the surrounding volcanoes,
given clear skies.
Day 6 BLD Today we fly back to Quito and drive north to
Otavalo (see page 5), where we stay for two nights in
either Hacienda Cusín or Hacienda Pinsaqui (see page
17). We may be able to visit a rose nursery en route.
After lunch we visit the Equator, passing the monument to the 1736 French expedition’s line, to the true
line 200m away. We visit the small Inti-Ñan museum
(rickety but fun) which straddles the true line and
presents an eclectic mix of folk exhibits and ‘scientific’
demonstrations.
Day 7 BLD The people of Otavalo and surrounding villages are masters of artisanal crafts. During the day we
visit weaving workshops in the village of Peguche, and
may stop to visit a family of pan-pipe players and workshops where the pipes are made—with enthusiastic
demonstrations.
Amazon
We visit the beautiful crater lake of Cotacachi volcano
(see page 5), and continue to Cotacachi itself, an entire
town dedicated to leather goods. Dozens of small
shops and smart boutiques offer everything from skilfully made handbags, wallets and jackets to equestrian
items for local farmers.
Day 3-5 BLD This morning we fly to Coca in the Amazon
to board a covered river boat for the 2 hour trip to the
Napo Wildlife Centre’s 82 square mile reserve (see page
14). To minimise disturbance to wildlife, and maximise
our chances of seeing it, we switch to dugouts seating
4-6 people. We are paddled along a blackwater creek,
stopping to watch wildlife on our way to the lodge, our
base for three nights.
Quito
Day 1 We meet in Quito in the early evening at our preferred hotel, usually Hotel Patio Andaluz in the Old City
(see page 17), where we stay two nights. You will be
met on arrival at the international airport and driven to
the hotel (30min approx).
We re-group for breakfast, then visit the other two
markets.
At the Mercado de Ponchos you will find every kind of
handicraft including wall hangings, naïve art, ceramics, costume jewellery, woven agave knot-less bags,
Panama hats, hand-knitted sweaters, woollen scarves
and gloves, rag dolls, masks, wood carvings, and musical instruments—and, of course, ponchos.
All rooms have private bathrooms, hot water, 24hr
electricity, ceiling fans, insect screens and balconies
facing the lake.
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www.geodyssey.co.uk/ecuador Bromeliad. JT
Plaza de la Independencia, Quito. JT
The domestic market sells fruit, flowers, vegetables,
Cañari girls, Chordeleg. JT
You can join an optional pre-breakfast trip to watch
farmers trade cows, pigs, sheep and hens at the livestock market. It’s an evocative scene, but is not for
everyone (there are terrible squeals from young pigs
having their teeth examined by sturdy ladies in billowing skirts, and worse).
Resident naturalist guides take us on safari each day,
introducing us to the life of the rainforest. We visit two
parrot clay licks, have good chances of seeing giant
otters in the lake and streams, several of the eleven
species of monkey found here, and much else besides.
There is a small chance of finding more elusive animals
such as jaguar, puma, tapir, giant anteater and giant
armadillo. The bird life is remarkable with over 550
species recorded.
Day 2 BL After breakfast we explore the Old City on foot.
Today is Sunday and traffic is banned. Church bells ring
out as we stroll around impressive plazas, convents
and monasteries contained within a few streets. On
sunny days the whitewashed buildings sparkle like
sugar in the clear mountain air. A religious procession
may pass while onlookers throw rose petals in its path.
Street vendors ply colourful wares—watermelon slices,
ice creams, sticky meringues, bunches of roses, party
balloons and piñatas (brightly painted containers full
of sweets). Shopkeepers display sacks of corn, quinoa,
beans, cinnamon, annatto and cumin. Between services we visit ornate churches with rich oil paintings,
12
Day 8 BLD Today being Saturday three distinct markets
take place in different parts of Otavalo.
Cotopaxi. JT
Folkloric head-dress. JT
Small group tour
groceries and meat, and expands on Saturdays to sell
the traditional Otavaleño clothes that are worn with
great pride. Watch the interplay between traders and
their clients: by custom they haggle in silence.
We lunch at a restaurant on the shore of Lake San Pablo at the foot of Imbabura volcano, then drive to Antisana (see page 5) for two nights at Termas Papallacta, a
comfortable mountain lodge around thermal springs.
Antisana and Papallacta
Day 9 BLD Today is a free day to relax and enjoy the
mountain setting and the hot springs. There are short
trails for those who just want to stretch their legs, and
longer ones for more dedicated walkers. Birdwatchers
will particularly enjoy the abundance of hummingbirds. The hotel’s many thermal pools, steaming and
bubbling in the open air, are free for hotel guests and
there are optional steam rooms, massages, mud wraps
and other spa treatments at reasonable extra charges.
Cotopaxi
Devil’s Nose Train and Ingapirca
Day 12 BLD An early start this morning for an exciting
ride on this single track (1.067m gauge) autoferro (see
page 7 and 16). Dress warmly in layers to sit on the roof
in the chilly morning air. As well as spectacular views
of five volcanoes—mighty Chimborazo, Carihuayrazo,
Altar, Tungurahua and Sangay (weather permitting, of
course)—this unusual perch gives a fresh perspective
on Andean life. You look down into back yards as the
‘train’ (more a coach on rails) rumbles through villages,
and passes through fields of corn, potatoes, carrots
and lima beans, across grassland and alongside lakes
to the small town of Alausí, by which time the morning
will have become noticeably warmer. From here, train
and engineering buffs get their excitement, as the line
crosses deep gorges spanned by narrow iron bridges
and zigzags in sharp switchbacks down the ‘Devil’s
Nose’. The journey is then reversed, with those who sat
on the roof changing places with those inside. Alighting at Alausí we drive 2 hours south to Ingapirca.
Day 10 BLD We drive south along part of Humboldt’s
‘Avenue of the Volcanoes’ to Cotopaxi National Park. On
a clear day the views of volcanoes are spectacular.
Ingapirca (see page 8) is an important classic Inca site
on the Royal Highway from Cusco to Quito. We visit the
ruins and stay nearby at a small hotel in pretty gardens.
Cotopaxi is the highest active volcano in the world,
and one of the most beautiful. Its perfectly symmetrical cone is topped by a gleaming snow cap. We drive
up to 4,500m, with wonderful views when the weather
is clear. If you are responding well to the altitude you
might walk (slowly) the short distance to the mountain
refuge at 4,800m, and maybe a little further to touch
the lowest tongues of the glacier’s blue-white ice.
Many prefer to stay behind enjoying stunning views.
Cuenca
We visit the beautiful Limpiopungo Lagoon where
herds of wild horses and llamas come to drink. There
are vestiges of Incan stone walls and the ruins of the Incan fortress of Pucara. We descend by road to spend a
night at the delightful Hacienda La Ciénega (page 17).
The period of prosperity brought by the export of
quinine and ‘Panama’ hats is reflected in the French
Day 13 BL If you are up early today, there is the option of
a dawn walk above Ingapirca. After breakfast we drive
to the craft villages of Chordeleg, Gualaceo and Sigsig
(see page 8), where a strong tradition of skilled handicrafts can be traced back to pre-Incan cultures. We
arrive in the historic city of Cuenca with its flower-filled
plazas, cobbled streets and ornate colonial buildings
with ancient wooden doors and ironwork balconies.
and neoclassical style influences in the architecture.
Several mansions of that period are now characterful
well-appointed hotels, such as the one we will stay in
for the next two nights.
Day 14 BL We tour the city of Cuenca today, including the
principal sights such as the new and the old cathedrals,
but also taking the time to explore some of the characterful lesser buildings.
There will be an opportunity for some shopping, including a visit to one of the best Panama hat stores.
Cajas National Park
Day 15 BL This morning we visit Cajas National Park, with
its beautiful mountain landscapes of dramatic rock
outcrops, glacial lakes, moorland and forest (see page
8). We take a nature walk, perhaps around a small tarn,
and explore unusual elfin forests of paperbark trees.
After a picnic lunch in the national park we drive to
Guayaquil, on the Pacific coast, where we stay one
night at a 4* city centre hotel near the ‘iguana square’
by the Cathedral.
Guayaquil
Day 16 BL Ecuador’s largest city and main port is undergoing quite a transformation. We take a morning walk
along the revived Malecon—a smartly decked promenade fronting the river, then explore the stepped
streets of Santa Ana Hill (see page 11). In the mid afternoon we drive to the airport for flights home, or onwards to the Galápagos Islands for optional extensions.
16 days / 15 nights
For departure dates and prices please see our Booking Information insert.
The Avenue of the Volcanoes
GEODYSSEY
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Red howler monkey. Phil Farrer
We make a short tour of Riobamba and its market
where local Purhuá women wear white bowler hats
and red ponchos. We stay for one night in a good quality hotel in a converted hacienda just out of town.
Polylepis elfin forest, Cajas National Park. JT
Day 11 B There will be time this morning to appreciate
the hacienda’s gardens, 19th century furnishings and
chapel, before we continue south along the Avenue
of the Volcanoes to Riobamba. Pausing in the village
of Salasaca we visit a simple workshop where mama
chumbi (belts) and wawa chumbi (hair braids) are
woven in intricate patterns on back-strap looms using
wools stained with dye from the agave cactus. Each
belt can take 15 days to make.
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Ecuador
Independent
‘Ecuador Odyssey’
Independent touring
E
cuador is a great country for travelling independently, on a tailor-made tour designed especially for you on the dates that suit you best. There is lots to see, distances are reasonable, it
is relatively easy to get around and there is usually a good choice of places to stay. Our independent travel service builds on our knowledge of Ecuador’s regions, hotels and lodges to offer a
completely flexible service to suit a wide range of preferences and budgets. Even self-drive is a practical possibility on some routes.
Planning your trip
These sample touring itineraries show what’s possible. Use them unchanged if they suit you, or take
them as a basis for your own ideal trip. They can be shortened or lengthened, or modified in many
ways.
16 days / 15 nights. Starts Quito, ends Guayaquil.
Our classic Ecuador Odyssey small group holiday
(see page 12) can be adapted to suit a private
trip travelling at any date. It is best to start the
tour on a Saturday to coincide with Sunday in
Quito’s Old City, Saturday in Otavalo, and the
Devil’s Nose Train (which runs on Wednesdays,
Fridays and Saturdays).
Woman winding wool. JT
When we are tailor-making a tour we talk through your ideas with you and design an initial proposal in the form of one or more full written itineraries. These can be further adapted and refined. When
you have settled on an itinerary and sent us your booking form, we will make the hotel reservations
required, book flights, arrange airport transfers, hire cars, etc, and, if you would like a guide, we will
select a trained and experienced English-speaking guide appropriate to your interests. We work with
some excellent general guides who will help to make your trip really memorable, and can call on
specialist guides as needed. All our guides are locals.
Meals can be included or left for you to decide during your holiday. For each day of the following
sample itineraries, BLD (breakfast, lunch, dinner) indicates the meals that are included in the prices
provided in the Booking Information leaflet inserted into this brochure. When touring, light or picnic
lunches are the norm.
While in Ecuador you have access to a local 24 hour helpline, with our support from the UK if needed. You are also financially protected (see page 2).
Galápagos cruises
Many-banded Aracari. Phil Farrer
Many people visiting mainland Ecuador also choose to visit the Galápagos. See page 26 for a description of the islands, and page 30 for an outline of the boats we offer. At busy times it can be a
problem finding availability but we are adept at fitting tours of the mainland around the available
cruise dates.
Amazon lodges
The best access to the wildlife of Ecuador’s western Amazon is provided by three excellent jungle
lodges: Sacha Lodge, Napo Wildlife Centre, and La Selva, located within an hour of each other
along the Napo river. Each is beautifully situated, operated to a similar pattern, and offers a broadly
similar experience of the rainforest, its wildlife and birds. Visitors fly to the small town of Coca, to
be met by each lodge’s boat. The journey downriver is taken at speed. June and July are often very
rainy with serious flooding. All three lodges provide excursions to the same parrot licks on the
south bank of the Río Napo.
Award-winning Yachana Lodge directly supports local communities and is a good choice for an
experience of their way of life. A traditional-style Amazon riverboat, the Manatee, provides the option of a relaxing cruise, and Cotococha is a good all-round rainforest lodge accessible by road.
Sacha Lodge
Two and a half hours down the Napo River from
Coca, Sacha Lodge is situated on the north side in a
private reserve. It stands by an oxbow lake reached
on a boardwalk that runs through seasonally flooded
forest.
Efficiently run, Sacha receives a larger number of
visitors and offers
substantial wellmaintained accommodation, indeed
its success can be a
slight drawback if
anything. Facilities
include two opportunities to experience the forest at canopy level or above: a canopy
platform in a kapok tree, and three high metal towers with observation platforms below, at, and above
the canopy, between which a 275m metal walkway
runs at around tree top height.
There is a good variety of excellent excursions, and
a team of experienced guides supported by assistants drawn from local communities.
Cabins are sturdily built in timber, fully screened,
14
with 24hr electric lighting and gas heated hot water
showers. There are two en suite rooms per cabin: noise
transmission can be an issue if adjacent guests keep
different hours. A lounge bar and communal dining
area are housed in a large thatched rotunda, with a
smaller bar/dining area overlooking the lake.
Sacha Lodge’s bird list claims 586 species. Other
wildlife includes an impressive list of monkeys, many of
which are readily seen, plus sloths, ant-eaters, armadillos, racoons, small cats, tapir and reports of Puma.
Napo Wildlife Centre
A little further downriver on the south side, Napo
Wildlife Centre is located within its own 82 square mile
reserve area within the Yasuni National Park–a UNESCO
Biosphere Reserve with the highest documented tree
diversity in the world. The Centre was created and built
by the Añangu community in partnership with charitable foundations.
The fast boat from
Coca drops you by a
beautiful creek that
meanders into the
forest. Here you are
met by the lodge
staff in small dug-out
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boats who slowly paddle you along, introducing you
to the plants and wildlife of the forest as you travel
(the journey can last 1½—2½ hours) . You emerge into
a very beautiful oxbow lake with the lodge buildings
nestling together on the opposite shore.
The Napo Wildlife Centre lodge offers individual
adobe style cabins, spacious and well-screened, with
24hr electricity, fans and gas-heated hot water in en
suite bathrooms. There are comfortable bar and dining
areas in an large and airy main lodge building, which
also offers a roof level viewing platform. Facilities include a canopy platform set in a 120ft ceiba tree. There
is a good network of trails and a selection of excellent
river excursions. The lodge is well run by experienced
managers who are training local people to assist in
(and eventually take over) its operation.
The terrain around the lodge (terra firma and varzea
forest) is similar to the others on the north side of the
Napo but accompanied by small hills which provide a
variation of habitat that adds to the range of species
that can be seen. An excellent range of wildlife, birds,
plants, trees is almost guaranteed and the lodge’s recorded lists of birds, mammals, etc are top rate.
La Selva Lodge
La Selva is the oldest of these three lodges and the
furthest downriver from Coca—a 3hr trip by fast river
boat.
It lies on the north
side of the river on the
edge of a peaceful oxbow lagoon reached
from the lodge’s landing stage on the main
river by a 15min stroll
along boardwalks
through some excellent varzea forest. You then cross
Independent touring
Andes, Amazon and Galápagos
A very popular itinerary that combines three different experiences in a flexible way so that you have
lots of choice. You select the Amazon lodge that suits you best, in the Andes you can either explore
the crafts and markets of Otavalo, the wonderful scenery of Cotopaxi, or the natural world of an
Andean cloud forest, and you select the boat of your choice for the Galápagos (see page 30). You can
call us to help you decide!
Quito
Day 1 You are met on arrival at Quito airport and transferred to a 3* hotel, your base for two nights.
Day 2 BL In the morning your guide will meet you at
your hotel and take you on a walking tour of the Old
City. After lunch, visit the Equator at either the unconventional Inti-Ñan museum or the Mitad del Mundo
complex. Or take the cable car up Pichincha volcano.
Amazon
Day 3 BLD Early morning transfer to the airport for a
short flight to Coca, where you will be collected by a
fast river boat and taken to the amazon lodge of your
choice (see below), for a 4 day/3 night visit.
Days 4-5 BLD Excursions at Amazon lodge.
Andes
Sea lion sunshade, Galápagos
Day 6 Returning to Quito by boat and air, you are met at
the airport and driven to your choice of three destinations in the Andes. Your time is free in each location to
relax at the hotel or for optional excursions which can
be arranged by you locally at extra cost.
Otavalo B (markets and craft villages) Stay at either Hacienda
Pinsaqui and Hacienda Cusín (described on page 17).
Both are convenient for visits to Otavalo and its neighbouring villages. Horse riding is available at both.
Cotopaxi BLD Stay at El Porvenir, a beautifully located
small hacienda style lodge situated on the edge of Cotopaxi national park, offering hiking, biking and riding.
Red howler monkey family. Phil Farrer
Giant Tortoises, Charles Darwin Research Centre. JT
Double rainbow, Cotopaxi National Park. JT
16 days / 15 nights. Starts Quito, ends Guayaquil. Designed to start on any day of the week.
Mindo (Andean cloud forests) BLD Stay in your choice of
cloud forest lodge in the Mindo area (see below). They
have resident naturalist/ornithologist guides available
for hire.
Day 7 Free.
Day 8 Morning free. Afternoon transfer back to Quito.
Overnight in the same hotel as Day 1.
Galápagos
Day 9 BLD Transfer to the airport for a flight to the
Galápagos, where you join your chosen 7 night cruise.
Day 10-15 BLD Galápagos cruise.
Day 16 Disembark from your boat in time for a midday
flight to Guayaquil, arriving in time for international
overnight flights to Europe.
Cloud forest lodges
the lake on small dugouts paddled by the lodge staff.
ceremony.
The accommodation is rustic. The individual stilted
cabins have split bamboo walls and floors with no possibility of excluding local invertebrates, and feel a little
rickety. Lighting is by hurricane lamp with an associated fire risk, but the beds are comfortable and protected by mosquito nets. Bathrooms are en suite and
have cold water sinks and showers heated by electric
units at the showerheads. There are congenial and spacious bar and dining areas. We found the senior guides
to be extremely affable and knowledgeable about the
natural history of the region generally.
Accommodation is in simple neat cabin and lodge
rooms all with private bathrooms and warm water
showers. Electricity is from solar power.
Trail and canoe excursions access terra firma and
varzea forest, palm swamp and two oxbow lakes. The
lodge has its own canopy platform in a large tree.
A wide variety of birds and other wildlife can be seen,
including several monkey species, sloths and caiman.
Anaconda, jaguar and giant armadillo are present but
rarely seen.
Yachana Lodge
Winner of a prestigious Conde Nast Traveler 2004
Ecotourism Award, this small lodge by the Napo river
“excels in introducing
guests to, and encouraging participation in,
local ways of life”. Set in
a private reserve partly
funded by Rainforest
Concern, guides from
local communities take
you on jungle walks to
experience the rainforest from a wildlife perspective.
You are also invited to meet and engage with local
people and to try everyday tasks with them such
as gold-panning, using a blow-pipe and throwing a
spear. It is also possible to participate in a cleansing
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Profits support a community education and development foundation.
Manatee
This 90ft river boat offers a relaxing way to enjoy a
taste of the rainforest. She cruises the Napo river stopping for jungle walks,
trips by small boat
into flooded forest or
quiet lagoons, with
visits to a canopy
tower and a salt lick.
Carrying just 30
passengers, there is
ample deck space
and a comfortable bar and dining room. All cabins
have a/c and private bathrooms.
Cotococha Lodge
Overlooking the Napo river near Tena, upstream from
Coca, this small lodge offers an all-round experience
of rainforest wildlife,
jungle hikes, and visits
to local communities.
The forest is somewhat
less diverse in terms of
wildlife and birds, but
access is by road, from
either Quito or Baños.
17 neat and spacious
private cabins, built in traditional style, with private
bathrooms with hot water, are set in gardens around a
lodge with comfortable bar, dining room and lounge
areas. After dark, lighting is by oil lamps.
Just 1½hr by road from Quito, the cloud forests of Mt Pichincha’s western slopes are a
renowned hot-spot of biodiversity, and a magnet for birders. The small town of Mindo is an
outdoorsy sort of place, with some excellent
lodges nearby in the forested hills. Well known
among the birdwatching community, these
lodges are also good for walkers taking the
forest trails. To explore the area fully you need
to bring your own guide/driver.
Septimo Paraiso
A spacious alpine-style
lodge with comfortable
wood-walled rooms, all
with private bathroom,
in a 300 hectare private reserve at 1,0501,650m. A selection of
short and long trails run from the lodge, which is set
in the valley. Swimming pool.
Bellavista
A well run lodge with
strong ecotourism
credentials in a 700
hectare reserve at
1,650-2,350m. Bellavista
is centred on a thatched
geodesic dome overlooking the forest. There is an agreeable bar/dining
room and simple accommodation in the lodge building itself, with more comfortable en-suite rooms
close by. An expert resident guide is usually on hand
for birdwatchers.
Tandayapa Bird Lodge is another good choice for serious
birdwatchers. Reserva Maquipucuna offers basic accommodation but plenty to interest the keen naturalist.
15
Ecuador
Quito, Otavalo
and Cotopaxi
Haciendas of Distinction
15 days/14 nights Starts and ends in Quito. Designed to start on any Saturday.
This two-week itinerary combines many of the highlights of Ecuador with the rich hospitality of the
country’s most characterful haciendas and boutique hotels (featured in the panel opposite). This
example includes some guided tours, but the balance is towards the experience of staying in and
around these fine hotels.
7 days / 6 nights Starts and ends in Quito. Start on a Tuesday, Wednesday or
Thursday to coincide with Otavalo’s main Saturday market.
A week’s tour of Quito and the northern Andes
(see page 4).
Quito
Day 1 You are met on arrival at Quito airport and transferred to a comfortable 3* hotel, your base for 2 nights.
Day 2 BL In the morning your guide will take you on a
walking tour of the Old City. After lunch, visit the Equator at either the unconventional Inti-Ñan museum or
the Mitad del Mundo theme park. Return to hotel. Your
evening is free to eat at the hotel or take a taxi to a
restaurant of your choice.
Quito
Ingapirca
Day 1
You are met on your arrival at Quito airport
and driven to Hotel Patio Andaluz or Mansión del Angel. This
is your base for your first 3 nights in Ecuador, allowing
you to discover Quito while acclimatising to the altitudes of the Andes.
You are met off the train to be driven by shared small
coach to Cuenca, with a stop to visit the Inca ruins of
Ingapirca (see page 8) en route.
Day 2 BL An experienced local guide meets you at your
hotel to introduce you to Quito and Ecuador in the
course of a leisurely morning’s walking tour of the historic quarter. The streets of the Old Quarter are closed
to traffic on Sundays, and there are often colourful
events in one or other of the principal plazas. In the
afternoon you might like to continue exploring the city
on your own (within a very short walk of Hotel Patio
Andaluz are the City Museum, the delightful House of
María Augusta Urrutia and La Compañía church), or
relax in your hotel.
Otavalo
Day 3 BD After breakfast, transfer to Otavalo to stay 2
nights at Hacienda Cusín or Pinsaqui (see panel opposite). Your guide and vehicle are at your command for
excursions in the area, including the famous market,
Cuicocha lake, and the craft villages around the town.
Day 4 BD Excursions in and around Otavalo
Antisana
Day 5 BD Continue your tour eastwards to the mountain
landscapes of Antisana national park, staying at the spa
resort of Termas de Papallacta. Cabins are built around
a series of thermal pools and a selection of treatments
is available at the spa at additional cost.
Cotopaxi
Day 3 B A free morning in Quito. As today is a Monday,
you will be able to get a better look inside Quito’s
churches to appreciate their breathtaking gold and
silver altars, and perhaps to ride the cable car to the
top of Mt Pichincha with its extensive views over the
city and to the Avenue of the Volcanoes. In the afternoon your guide takes you to other parts of the city
and its surroundings, including a visit to the Equator
monument.
Cotopaxi National Park
Day 6 BL Drive around the mountains to Cotopaxi national park, exploring the Limpiopungo Lagoon, driving part of the way up Cotopaxi itself with the option
of walking up a scree a further 200m to the mountain
refuge and the edge of the glacier. Return to Quito to
stay overnight at the same hotel as before.
Day 4 BLD Today you are driven south along part of the
Avenue of the Volcanoes to Cotopaxi National Park.
You visit the beautiful Limpiopungo Lagoon at 3,800m
and enjoy the high páramos vegetation, with miniature
asters and crocus-like flowers nestling amid lichens
and mosses. If you are responding well to the thinness
of the air there is the option of walking up to the volcano’s glacier. Then continue to your choice between
Hostería La Ciénega or Hacienda San Agustín de Callo for a two
night stay.
Day 7 B You will be collected from your hotel in time
for your onwards flight. Flights to the Galápagos or
the Amazon leave in the morning. Overnight flights to
Europe leave in the afternoon.
Cuenca
At historic Cuenca, the principal city of the southern
Andes, you stay for three nights in the historic quarter
at Mansión Alcázar or Hostería Santa Lucia.
Day 10 B You are collected from your hotel for a morning
tour of Cuenca. In the afternoon you are free to relax at
the hotel or perhaps to explore some more of the city
by yourselves. Don’t forget to buy a Panama hat!
Day 11 B A free day in Cuenca. Though there is plenty to
see in the city, you could choose to arrange an optional
excursion, eg to Cajas National Park or nearby villages
famous for their crafts.
Otavalo
Day 12 BD Today you will be transferred to the airport at
Cuenca for the short flight back to Quito. On arrival,
you will be driven to Otavalo and your choice of one of
three distinctive hotels: Hacienda Pinsaqui, Hacienda Cusín,
and Hostería La Mirage
Day 13-14 BD Two free days at your chosen hotel near
Otavalo. Optional excursions can be arranged locally.
Day 15 B Morning visit to Otavalo Market. On Saturdays
all four separate markets will be in full operation—the
early morning animal market, the handicrafts stalls,
fruit and vegetables and the Indian market where the
locals buy their unique items of dress.
In the afternoon you are transferred to Quito airport for
your chosen overnight international flight home.
Day 5 BLD Free day for walking, riding or relaxing at
Hostería La Ciénega or Hacienda San Agustín del Callo.
Baños
Day 6 BD Today you will be driven along the Avenue of
the Volcanoes to Baños where you stay for 2 nights at
Hostería Luna Runtun.
Day 7 BD Free day to enjoy the hotel and spa.
Riobamba
16
Dome of the new Cathedral, Cuenca
Devil’s Nose Train
Day 9 BL The engineers who constructed the Trans-Andean Railway between Guayaquil on the coast and
Quito in the mountains faced incredible challenges of
terrain. Their most outstanding accomplishment was
the section completed in 1902 known as the Devil’s
Nose, where the track descends an almost perpendicular wall of rock in a tight switchback—one of the great
railway journeys of the world. To make the trip even
more memorable it is possible to travel on the roof of
the train (inside if you prefer). At present the favoured
rolling stock is the ‘Chiva Express’—a traditional Latin
American bus mounted on the chassis of a diesel powered rail coach.
Incan walled chapel, Hacienda San Agustín de Callao
Pan pipes, Otavalo Market. Pierre Thomas
Thermal waters, Papallacta.
Day 8 BD After a leisurely morning free at Hostería Luna
Runtun you will be transferred to Riobamba where you
stay for one night at Hotel Abraspungu, a comfortable
country inn style hotel just outside the town, ready for
an early start next morning for the Devil’s Nose Train.
You leave from the small station at Riobamba. The
single track journey twists and turns through Andean
villages and pretty valleys, carrying you over bridges
and across steep ravines as you descend to the village
of Alausí. From here you descend the Devil’s Nose
switchback, pause, then ascend and return to Alausí.
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Independent touring
A selection of Andean haciendas and other fine hotels
The Andean haciendas listed here deserve special mention as characterful, as well as comfortable, places to stay. To them we have added a small selection of mostly city hotels that have set their standards especially high. We have also stayed in or visited many good quality 3-4* hotels throughout
Ecuador (some with lots of character too), that are excellent choices for general touring—too many to mention here.
Quito
Cotopaxi
Hotel Patio Andaluz
Hostería La Ciénega
A stylish, comfortable 4* hotel that has recently been
sympathetically converted from a colonial mansion and
is arranged around three internal courtyards. Located
a few steps from the Plaza de la Independencia, it is
extremely convenient for sightseeing among the impressive colonial buildings, museums, ornate churches
and romantic plazas of the Old City. The rooms are very
spacious with heavy dark wood furnishings and ecclesiastical overtones.
Hostería La Ciénega is a characterful hotel converted from one of Ecuador’s oldest haciendas,
dating from 1580. Set in extensive grounds it is
approached along an avenue of fragrant eucalyptus trees. Its well regarded restaurant, 28
guest rooms and suites are set around a series
of attractive courtyard gardens, some of which
are recent additions. La Ciénega offers rooms
with colonial and 19th century furnishings and
has many other reminders of its past, including
a private chapel. Horse riding is usually available for guests.
Mansión del Angel
A charming chocolate box of a boutique hotel
in the Mariscal district. You are welcomed
in a sumptuous living room furnished with
antiques. The bedrooms are decorated in a
romantic style—gilt cornices, cherubs, fourposter beds strewn with rose petals, and lots
of lace. Afternoon tea is served daily, and there
is a sunny roof conservatory for breakfasts.
When we stayed, there were songbirds in
cages in the conservatory, the only negative.
Hacienda San Agustín
del Callo
Hacienda San Agustín de Callao is one the
most historic haciendas in Ecuador. It was formerly an Incan palace or temple, constructed
for Tupac Yupanqui in the 15th century. After
the conquest, it became an Augustinian convent, with additions in the colonial 16th and
republican 19th centuries. Baron Alexander
von Humboldt and the mountaineer Edward
Whymper both visited.
Otavalo
It is now an eclectic family home with five guest rooms personally overseen by the
lady of the house. The walls of some rooms include exposed Incan stonework of
close-fitting irregular blocks of the high quality reserved for important buildings
of the time. The dining room and chapel in particular are magnificent examples of
the craftsmanship of the classic Inca period, and include the trapezoidal doorways
which are so distinctive.
Hacienda Cusín
Hacienda Cusín is a beautifully restored 17th
century estate situated in San Pablo del Lago,
9km south east of Otavalo. Nearby the often
snow-capped 15,000ft Cotacachi volcano can
be seen reflected in San Pablo Lake.
The hacienda has 44 individually decorated
guest rooms, all with private bathrooms, fireplaces, beamed ceilings and garden or mountain views. Some are in the old building, some
in garden cottages or family courtyards while
others are in a newer ‘Monastery’ building with separate dining and bar facilities.
The hacienda has terracotta tile roofs, winding cobble pathways, fountain courtyards and extensive gardens filled with belladonna, bougainvillea, agapanthas,
acanthas, foxgloves, orchids, palms and over 50 species of birds. There are good
walking opportunities locally and optional squash, mountain biking and horse
riding (with hard hats provided) are available for guests.
Hacienda Pinsaqui
Hacienda Pinsaqui is a very comfortable hotel
situated at the base of Imbabura Volcano,
5km north of Otavalo. It has 20 individually
decorated suites all with sheepskin rugs, warm
blankets, traditional art and an abundance of
beautiful antiques. Most rooms have a view
overlooking the lovely garden at the rear of
the hacienda. Live Andean music is played
during lunch.
La Mirage is a ‘contemporary inn’ 5km from
Otavalo near the town of Cotacachi, famous
for leather work. La Mirage offers 23 rooms all
with log fires and is the only ‘Relais & Chateaux’
property in Ecuador.
The restaurant is elaborately over the top. Four
course à la carte dinners are served in a rose
scented glass pavilion. Amuses bouches are
brought to the table in musical boxes, while
baskets of cut flowers swing in the trees to
amplify the scents of the garden.
Guest facilities include a tennis court, a solar heated swimming pool, and a spa
centre complete with steam bath, Jacuzzi and aromatherapy massages.
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www.geodyssey.co.uk/ecuador Baños
Hostería Luna Runtun
A well-run spacious boutique hotel set in extensive hillside gardens, in a country location
perched high above Baños on the other side of
the valley from the active Tungurahua volcano.
The hotel’s spa offers a wide range of treatments and uses medicinal plants, fruits, and
vegetables produced in the 63 acre garden.
There is a choice of walking, horse riding and
mountain biking options.
Cuenca
Mansion Alcázar
The hacienda dates back to 1790 and has a
rich history, General Simón Bolívar, the revered liberator of Ecuador, stayed several
times. Later in the nineteenth century a peace agreement between Colombia and
Ecuador was signed here. The hacienda offers optional horse riding trips to the
summit of Imbabura Volcano.
La Mirage
The hacienda is wonderfully situated with a full view of the snow-capped cone of
Cotopaxi volcano.
An elegant boutique hotel in a lavishly restored large town house dating from the turn
of the last century when Cuenca was at its
most well-to-do. The hotel offers a taste of the
luxury of that era, with many chic touches. It
is decorated grandly, with crystal chandeliers,
antique furniture, sumptuous furnishings and
delightful objet d’art. There is a courtyard patio
fountain and a charming small garden.
Hostería Santa Lucia
Built by the provincial governor in 1859, this
mansion set around three internal courtyards
in the manner of the best houses of that time
was beautifully restored and converted into
a first rate hotel, opening in 2002. The style is
traditional and opulent with polished wood
floors, luxurious fabrics and period furnishings,
with the courtyard layout bringing a sense of
quiet spaciousness. It has 20 bedrooms, well
furnished and generously sized and is conveniently located for independent city sightseeing.
17
Ecuador
Avenue of the Volcanoes and
the Devil’s Nose Train
View of Chimborazo from Devil’s Nose train
8 days / 7 nights Starts and ends in Quito. Designed to start on any Wednesday or Friday.
A one week itinerary to discover the heart of the central Andes along Humboldt’s ‘Avenue of the Volcanoes’ , and its great colonial cities of Quito and Cuenca. Ride ‘the most difficult railway in the world’
and pause to see the Incan ruins of Ingapirca.
Quito
Devil’s Nose Train and Ingapirca
Day 1 You are met on arrival at Quito airport and transferred to a comfortable 3* hotel, your base for 2 nights.
Day 6 BL An early start this morning for an exciting ride
on the Devil’s Nose train, as described under Ecuador
Odyssey, Day 12 on page 13. Visit Ingapirca and travel
on to a characterful 3* hotel in Cuenca for a 2 night
stay.
Avenue of the Volcanoes
Day 3 BLD Your guide will collect you from your hotel for
the drive down the Avenue of the Volcanoes. Visit Cotopaxi NP, exploring the Limpiopungo Lagoon, driving
part of the way up Cotopaxi with the option of hiking a
further 200m to the mountain refuge. Descend to stay
at Hacienda La Ciénega (see page 17) for 2 nights.
Cuenca
Alonso Pilla using back strap loom, Salasaca. JT
Day 2 BL In the morning your guide will meet you at your
hotel and take you on a walking tour of the Old City.
After lunch, visit the Equator at either the unconventional Inti-Ñan museum or the Mitad del Mundo theme
park. (A ride on the Pichincha cable car is an option if
time allows and conditions are good.)
Day 7 BL Your guide and vehicle are at your command
today for your choice of exploring Cuenca itself, walking in Cajas national park, or touring the craft villages
to the south of the city.
Day 8 B Your guide takes you to the airport for your return flight to Quito to connect with your international
flight home or to continue your trip, perhaps to the
Galápagos or the Amazon.
Queuing for the bank to open, Alausí. JT
Looking down the Devil’s Nose from the roof of the train. JT
Day 4 BLD A pleasant day’s touring today, visiting the
villages around the ‘Quilotoa Loop’, see page 6. Your
guide will help you decide whether to complete the
whole loop, or to use part of the day for a walk in this
beautiful Andean countryside.
Day 5 BL Continue south this morning along the Avenue
of the Volcanoes to Riobamba, pausing in the village
of Salasaca to visit a simple weavers workshop. Your
guide escorts you on a short city tour of Riobamba
before arriving at a good quality hotel in a converted
hacienda just out of town.
A Taste of Ecuador
5 days / 4 nights Starts and ends in Quito on any Friday
Cotopaxi National Park
A great value short tour combining Quito, Otavalo market, Cotopaxi volcano and the Equator designed for solo travellers and for those wanting to stretch their budget to combine a short visit to
the mainland with a Galápagos cruise. Excursions are shared with other participants who may be any
nationality.
Arrival
Quito
Day 1 You will be met on arrival at Quito airport and
transferred to a 3* hotel well located in the Mariscal section of town. This will be your base for all five
nights.
Day 3 B A guided city tour of the historic quarter of
Quito is arranged for you today. The tour includes a
visit to the Parliament building, St Augustine Convent,
Independence Plaza bordered by the Cathedral, Presidential Palace, Municipal Building and the Archbishop’s Palace and a visit to the Church of San Francisco
which has the painting of the winged Virgin of Quito
at its main altar. You are then driven out of the city to
visit the Equator monument. The afternoon is free in
Quito, perhaps to visit museums or, if the weather is
fine, to ride the cable car to the top of Pichincha.
Otavalo Market
Day 5 B This morning you will be transferred back to
Quito airport for your onwards connection: perhaps a
flight to the jungle, to the Galápagos or home.
This itinerary combines well with:
• a 3 night visit to an Amazon jungle lodge
• a 3, 4 or 7 night Galápagos Cruises on one of the
following boats which have Wednesday departures:
Galápagos Explorer II, Sagitta, Diamante, Coral I,
Coral II, Cachalote, Sea Cloud
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www.geodyssey.co.uk/ecuador Cotopaxi
Jolly manifestation in Plaza de San Francisco, Quito. JT
Day 2 BL An early start for a full day tour. You are driven
through the countryside to Otavalo. You will have
plenty of time to enjoy the lively and colourful markets, with a wide choice of textiles, handicrafts and
jewellery. Look out for locals dressed in blue ponchos,
white trousers and long plaited hair. Lunch is included
either at a restaurant beside San Pablo lake or a local
hacienda.
Day 4 BL This morning you board the ‘Chiva Express’: a
single carriage train made from a colourful Ecuadorian
bus (or ‘chiva’) mounted on a diesel train chassis. Dress
warmly and ride on the roof as you advance from the
old station in Quito along the Avenue of the Volcanoes
to Cotopaxi National Park below Cotopaxi volcano.
Lunch is included at a local restaurant. The return journey to Quito is by road.
Independent touring
Pacific coast
5 days / 4 nights Starts and ends in Guayaquil.
Mantaraya Lodge, near Puerto López. JT
Machalilla National Park and the area around it at the north of the Ruta del Sol combine good
beaches with wildlife, nature, an interesting local community and even a little archaeology. If
you like being by the sea but enjoy being active then choose this tour. If you prefer to flop or
take each day as it comes then the ‘Pacific beach’ itinerary below might suit you best.
Day 1 LD You are met on arrival at Guayaquil airport,
which has international and domestic connections, or
collected from your hotel in the city, by your experienced English-speaking local guide and driven to your
choice of hotel in the Puerto López region at the northern end of the Ruta del Sol for 4 nights.
With an early start, your guide can include a number
of stops en route. There are small archeological sites,
a nature reserve at Cerro Blanco, and several birding
sites. Stop for lunch at Hostería Farallón Dillon, a quirky
nautical theme restaurant-cum-antiques barn.
Whale’s tail, Pacific coast
Hotel Atamari offers spacious well appointed cabins set
around a cliff-skirted promontory, with wonderful
views for whale-watchers and sunset-gazers. There is a
good sized swimming pool and a rocky path descends
to a secluded beach at Ayampe.
Mantaraya Lodge is a well-run small hotel set in the hills
near Puerto López. Its colourful adobe-style buildings
are set around a lovely pool.
Hostería Mandala, right on the sands in Puerto López, is a
low-key barefoot eco-style hotel with thatched cabins
in well-tended gardens.
Day 2 BLD A full day visit to Machalilla National Park. Visit
the indigenous village of Agua Blanca (see page 11),
where a guide from the village will show you around
and introduce you to their still traditional way of life. A
visit to the archaeological museum is also included. In
the afternoon visit Los Frailes beach within the park.
Day 3 BLD Today you make a full day visit to Isla de la
Plata aboard one of the twin-engined motor boats
that ply this route. Pelicans and other sea birds can
be seen during the 1½hr crossing; between June and
September there is a very good chance of whales and
dolphins. Your guide joins you for a tour of the island
amid colonies of boobies and frigatebirds, with other
species depending on the season.
Day 4 BLD Although your guide and vehicle are yours
to command, you might spend part of the day by the
hotel pool, or at a local beach. A visit to the Presley
Norton archaeological museum and the small museum
of Río Chico are possible, as is a trip to Salango island
for sea bird colonies and good snorkelling. In season,
whale-watching is possible from the shore.
Day 5B Set off in the morning to Guayaquil for onward
connections in the afternoon.
Pacific beach
Los Frailes beach, Machalilla National Park. JT
Take life as it comes at probably the nicest part of the coast. For more reliable sun at any time of year
consider the Venezuela and Bonaire add-ons on page 31.
Day 1 You are met on arrival at Guayaquil airport, which
has international and domestic connections, and transferred by road to your choice of hotel in the Puerto
López region, see above.
Days 2-4 B Relax at your hotel or arrange excursions
locally.
Day 5 B You are collected from your hotel for the return
drive to Guayaquil for onward connections.
Ecuador SelfDrive
Ecuador’s road system leaves much to be desired, and driving standards are rough and ready, but
a self-drive tour in a well-maintained recent model hire car is now a practical possibility. Drive conservatively, take your time, and be prepared to get lost!
Avenue of trees, near Puerto López. JT
There are pros and cons to driving yourself: you travel as you please, ready to stop to enjoy a
place that catches your eye. You can buy your groceries just like a local and enjoy an impromptu
picnic in a field or a village square, or stop to watch a village procession that is blocking the road.
And you are on your own in the car. There are several ‘cons’: you don’t know the roads and will
certainly take some wrong turnings, your journey will take longer, and you risk a bit of stress if you
overdo things.
Geodyssey’s Ecuador SelfDrive service will help you get
the most out of the experience. It provides:
• choice of good quality recent model hire car with unlimited
mileage and insurance with CDW
• pre-planned itineraries, your choice from a series of
itineraries designed by experienced local drivers
covering the best of the Andes and the Pacific.
• pre-booked accommodation at selected hotels on the
itinerary you have chosen
Religious procession on the road to Cuicocha Lake. JT
• easy arrival and departure When you arrive you are met
at the airport and driven to your hotel, so you do
not have to get in your hire car straightaway after a
long flight. When you are rested and acclimatised,
the hire car is delivered to you, or you are driven to
the depot to collect it. At the end of your trip you
simply drop the car off at the airport.
GEODYSSEY
can’t find a landline, want to check the opening
times of a museum, or to ask a hotel to guide you
to them.
• on-the-spot support 24hr helpline for advice, information and emergencies.
• optional GPS rental for those ‘where on earth am I?’
moments.
See the Ecuador SelfDrive section of the Booking
Information insert for itineraries and our current
choice of vehicles.
• latest guide book Choose either the Rough Guide to
Ecuador or the Ecuador Handbook
• road maps We include Insight Guides’ new ‘FlexiMap’
of Ecuador, plus detailed maps along your route
• mobile telephone Just in case you need assistance and
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Ecuador
Day walks in the Andes
15 days / 14 nights Starts and ends in Quito. Designed to start on a Saturday.
Arrival
Cuicocha circuit
transferred to a 3* hotel.
Day 9 BLD Cuicocha (‘Guinea Pig Lake’) is a deep bluegreen crater lake in the caldera of a dormant volcano.
Make an early start for the best views on an exhilarating 5hr circuit around the crater’s rim. As well as great
views of the lake’s two islands there are panoramas of
nearby Cotacachi and Imbabura volcanoes. The circular
walk is 12km (7½ miles) at an altitude of 3,070-3,400m
(10,000-11,300ft). There are steps on steeper parts of
the trail and handrails on the more precarious sections.
Day 2 BL Morning tour of the Old City, including lunch,
and a visit to the Equator in the afternoon.
Papallacta Hot Springs
Day 3 BD The morning is free for sightseeing in Quito, or
perhaps a ride on the cable car up Pichincha volcano.
In the afternoon you are collected for a short visit to
the bohemian suburb of Guápulo, which has a very
pretty church, then driven to Papallacta (1½hr) where
you stay 2 nights at a 3* hotel and spa on the Andean
páramos at 3,300m (10,800ft). Outside each room is a
thermal pool—perfect for a dip beneath a starry sky.
Look out for hummingbirds amid the lupins, puyo with
bright green flowers, wild orchids and even condors.
Avoid the tempting, but poisonous, blueberries.
For this trip it may be possible for your guide to hire a
llama from a local farmer to carry your lunch!
Day 10 BLD This morning you will be driven south to Hacienda La Ciénega for 2 nights (see page 17). This route
takes you on the first section of the Avenue of the
Volcanoes. Rest of the day free to relax at the hacienda
or in its gardens, or go horse riding (optional).
Day 4 BLD Today you can choose a leg-stretching day
walk over the páramos in the Antisana Ecological
Reserve, where it is possible to see Andean Condor.
Or take the easier short trail behind the hotel (a good
place for hummingbirds) before indulging in the optional treatments available at the hotel’s spa. These include five open air thermoludic pools kept at different
temperatures some with pressured water or hydrojets,
plus massages, treatments and body wraps.
Day 11 BLD A full day exploring Cotopaxi National Park.
Visit Limpiopungo Lagoon at 3,800m and enjoy the
high páramos vegetation with miniature asters and
crocus-like flowers nestling amid lichens and mosses. If
you are responding well to the thinness of the air there
is the option of walking up to touch the ice of the volcano’s glacier. You could ride back down on a mountain
bike (let us know in advance if you will want to do this
and check your travel insurance cover).
San Isidro
Days 5-6 BLD Today you are driven down to Cabañas San
Isidro lodge in a picturesque valley at 2,000m (6,800ft),
your base for the next 2 nights. The lodge is set in large
tracts of subtropical forest with clearly marked, selfguided trails from 1 to 6 km. Some lead through a forest of large hardwood trees draped with lush mosses
that support great numbers of different orchid and
bromeliad species. Others pass through vast bamboo
stands and river edge forests. Each habitat supports
its own complement of flora and fauna: one trail leads
to an Andean Cock of the Rock lek. Rarities such as
Spectacled Bear, Mountain Tapir, Oncilla and Puma are
reported from time to time.
Day 12 BLD With an early start you are driven to Lake
Quilotoa, a second crater lake which is the starting
point of today’s walk. The trail down the outside of the
volcano leads through a remote rural area of subsistence farming, canyons, and rivers to reach the Quichua-speaking village of Chugchilán. Goats, sheep and
llamas graze, and crops include potatoes, corn, broad
beans, lupins, squash, and quinoa. Local crafts include
primitivist paintings on leather, and wooden masks.
Stay overnight in Chugchilán at a simple guest house
with private bathroom.
Saquisilí Market and Riobamba
Riobamba Market
Day 13 BLD A visit to Saquisilí Market this morning. One
of the largest in the highlands, it fills seven plazas, each
specialising in different merchandise. You will then be
driven south via Salasaca (where you can stop to see
back strap loom weavers at work) to Riobamba where
you stay for 2 nights at a 3* tourist lodge.
Day 15 B Make a short visit to Riobamba’s San Alfonso
market this morning, where you can try Baltasar and
Gregorio’s ice mixed with fruit in snow cones called
‘raspados’. Then you are driven back to Quito (4hr) for
your chosen overnight flight home.
Rope making, Chimborazo. JT
Alpacas, Chimborazo. JT
Day 8 BLD A short downhill stroll in the early morning to
Otavalo’s animal market. Return for breakfast. You will
then be driven into town for the main market, now in
full swing selling crafts, fruit and vegetables, and traditional clothing for local Quichuas.
At first you drive up through fields of maize, potatoes,
carrots and lima beans. At the end of the track the walk
takes you on hillsides covered with mixed clumps of
cushion plants and tussock grasses—enough to supply
a thousand years of garden make-over programmes.
This area is home to vicuñas, llamas and alpacas.
At the face of the glacier, Baltasar and Gregorio use
axes and spades to hack out large blocks of ice, as they
have done from this spot for the last 50 years. They
wrap the ice in the grass and tie it to their mules with
their handmade ropes. Their descent starts around
midday and lasts 2 hours. You rejoin your vehicle while
they continue to their home in the village, where they
store the ice in underground pits to preserve it for
Saturday’s market in Riobamba.
The trail is 12km (7½ miles), starting at 3,900m and
ending at 3,200m (12,800 – 10,500ft ). The final section makes an abrupt 800ft descent into the Río Sigüi
Canyon and back up the other side before arriving in
Chugchilán village. This can be avoided by curtailing
the walk in Guayama, about 6 miles from the start.
Day 7 BLD Towards late morning you will be collected
and driven to Otavalo, to stay at Hacienda Las Palmeras—your base for the next 3 nights. This 150 year
old hacienda is set among towering palm trees and
features garden cottages with log fires. The ‘perpetual
spring’ climate ensures a continual flowering of hibiscus, bougainvillea, other flowering plants and fruit
trees, attracting hummingbirds, vermilion fly-catchers
and a profusion of other native birds to the grounds.
Day 14 BLD An early start to join Baltasar and Gregorio,
the last of ‘Los Hieleros’, who each week maintain their
family’s tradition of walking up to the glacier on Chimborazo to cut blocks of ice to sell in Riobamba. This is a
wonderful hike offering great views of this impressive
mountain and across a wide expanse of the central
highlands. Baltasar and Gregorio earn very little from
the ice they collect, so your walking with them helps to
keep alive this extraordinary way of life.
Around 3,380m Baltasar and Gregorio use scythes to
cut some of the longer grasses which they deftly twist
together to make 6ft lengths of rope. Armfuls of grass
to insulate the ice are then cut and tied to their mules
using the rope. The trail continues to ascend. Vegetation gives way to volcanic scree before you eventually
arrive at the snow line. It takes around 4hrs to reach
the glacier, at around 4,500m. You should find that your
time in the highlands has acclimatised you sufficiently
to cope with this altitude if you walk fairly slowly.
Lake Quilotoa to Chugchilán
Otavalo
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Los Hieleros (The Icemen)
Cotopaxi
Antisana Ecological Reserve
Riobamba is close to Chimborazo, an extinct volcano
which rises 6,310m (20,703ft) above sea level. It is the
highest mountain in the world if measured from the
centre of the earth. (The bulge in the planet at the
equator gives Chimborazo an advantage over Everest.)
Baltasar, hacking ice from Chimborazo’s glacier. JT
Quito
Lake Quilotoa. JT
This itinerary combines day walks and touring to take you into the heart of the Andean countryside
in an intriguing mixture of scenery and habitats. You are in control of how far you walk on any day
and each night is spent at a pleasant lodge with private facilities. The walks include a circuit of the
rim of a crater lake, a mountain pass where condors fly overhead, self-guided trails in subtropical
forest, a country walk between remote farming villages, and a high altitude hike with the last of the
‘hieleros’—the men who fetch ice from the glaciers of mighty Chimborazo.
GEODYSSEY
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Walking, trekking and riding
Horse riding and
life on the farm
These examples focus on the picturesque landscape around Cuenca: highlands and valleys
scattered with small farms.
One of these, a private working hacienda in the Totorillas valley 45min from Cuenca offers a true slice of Andean rural life. The main attraction is horse-riding, but
you can also join
in the farm’s everyday activities: collect the eggs, milk
the cows, feed the
guinea pigs, and
even plough with
oxen or help with
harvesting.
The riding horses
are much loved.
They are a mix of
Criollo/Paso Peruano and Criollo/
Arab blood. Criollo blood ensures
they cope well
with the altitude
and are sure-footed on steep slopes. Their diet includes
vitamins and mineral salts and they are wormed every
3 months. Each has 2 or 3 blankets beneath a comfortable western saddle with good quality tack. Riding
helmets and rubber boots for riding are supplied.
A day on the farm
1 day. No previous riding experience required.
You are picked up from your hotel in Cuenca and
driven to Hacienda Totorillas. From here you can ride in
the local mountains as long as you wish, returning to
the hacienda for lunch.
Join in farm activities in the afternoon, before you are
transferred back to Cuenca.
Farm stay with daily rides
3 days / 2 nights No previous riding experience required.
As above, but staying overnight at the farm for two
nights. You choose the amount of time you spend riding, relaxing or joining in the life of the farm each day.
There are 3 extremely spacious guest bedrooms which
share 2 bathrooms.
Ride to the Valley of Eternal Youth
8 days / 7 nights. For experienced riders only.
Follow an Incan Royal Trail and trading route from
Cuenca to Vilcabamba, between small forgotten villages and indigenous communities. Typically 5 hours
riding per day, mostly camping with packhorses for kit.
Participants need an adventurous spirit and must help
saddle and feed the horses and pitch camp. A support
vehicle brings fresh supplies every 2 days. The best
months for this trip are November and December, with
July to September being the coldest and April to June
the wettest. Call us for a detailed itinerary.
Cotopaxi Ascent
9 days / 8 nights Starts and ends in Quito
This trip brings together 5 first rate day walks that are well worth doing in their own right. If all goes
well, you will then be acclimatised and ready for an assault on the magnificent Cotopaxi—the highest active volcano in the world. From the summit there are fabulous views of all Ecuador’s principal
volcanoes parading into the distance, and into the volcano’s steaming crater—half a mile wide.
Cotopaxi’s altitude of 5,897m (19,348ft), near perfect cone-shape, and relatively predictable conditions attract
hikers from all over the world. The ascent involves a steep, high altitude hike over ice, which amongst climbers is
not considered technical but does require ropes, crampons and ice axes (training for which is given at the start of
the climb). It also requires a high degree of stamina, physical fitness and careful acclimatisation—the demands are
such that in reasonable conditions only half those who start the ascent successfully reach the summit. The thorough acclimatisation provided in this tour should increase your chance of success to about 75%.
The Cotopaxi area is blessed with the highest proportion of clear days in the Ecuadorian Andes, and the summit
may be attempted at any time of year. June and July are the driest months, but can be very windy. December and
January are almost as dry but much less windy. April is the wettest month. The mountain sometimes suffers from
days of strong winds that prevent any ascent.
transferred to a 3* hotel.
Day 2 BL You meet your experienced, English speaking,
local mountaineering guide who over the next seven
days will personally supervise your acclimatisation
and your attempt at the summit. A short drive north
brings you to Cuicocha lagoon for a straightforward 5
hour walk around the rim of this beautiful crater lake at
3,400m. Overnight at Hacienda Pinsaqui near Otavalo.
Day 3 BL Today you start to stretch your sinews in greater
earnest with a hike to the top of Fuya Fuya (4,283m)
which gives great views over the three pristine Mojanda lakes and wide expanses of páramo grassland.
Overnight in Quito.
Day 4 BL Your acclimatisation continues today with a
hike to the summit of Guagua Pichincha, at 4,794m.
The two Pichinchas overlook Quito from the east.
The smaller, Rucu Pichincha, is dormant, but Guagua
Pichincha is active and over the centuries has several
times spewed ash and more over the citizens below.
During the ascent there are spectacular views of Quito
and far beyond. At the summit you can look into the
crater to fumaroles smouldering at the crater bottom.
You can choose to drive to the start point or take the
brand new cable car from Quito and walk from there.
On your descent you will be transferred to Hacienda
La Ciénega at Lasso for one night. Hiking time today is
4-6 hours.
Day 5 BLD Today you hike to Nuevos Horizontes Refuge
which is just below a saddle between the two peaks
of Iliniza volcano. We sleep here in a mountain lodge
dormitory at 4,650m in readiness for Iliniza Norte. Hiking time: 3-4 hours.
Day 6 BLD Dawn ascent of Ilinizas Norte, 5,120m. With
normal conditions technical equipment will not be
necessary as we walk on a ridge of solid rock, then
traverse sandy ledges to reach the iron cross at the
summit. On a clear day there are great views of Ecuador’s high snow-capped volcanoes and there is a
chance of seeing condor in flight. Then descend and
transfer to Hacienda El Porvenir, a characterful and
comfortable hacienda built in traditional adobe and
thatch style where we stay for one night. Hiking time: 3
hours ascending, 2 hours descending
Life in the highlands. Andrew Neild.
GEODYSSEY
Summit of Cotopaxi with refuge on slope. JT
A great way to enjoy the highlands is on horseback. Riding is offered at several haciendas, and
longer riding trips can be put together—just
ask us.
Day 7 BLD You spend the morning resting at Hacienda
Porvenir before being driven to the shoulder of Cotopaxi at 4,600m. From here you walk up a slope of
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pumice and ash to the refuge at 4,800m. Your guide
leads you onto the glacier’s snout for training in safety
techniques, and the use of crampons and ice axe. Then
it’s off to bed at 6pm to try to get some sleep.
Day 8 BL At 11pm you will be woken for a high carb meal
before you set off on your push for the summit. The
ascent is made
at night while
the snow is most
solid. The first
section is over
pumice, ash and
ice lightly dusted
with snow. Within
an hour we reach
the permanent
snow line at
5,050m where
ropes and harnesses come into
play and we start
using our crampons and ice axe.
In normal conditions the going is pretty straightforward, with some
crevasses that have to be crossed. After Yanasacha,
an immense black rock face just below the summit at
5,700m, you will be very tired, but your guide is there
to encourage, cajole and curse you into the final push
up the steepest section and, at last, on to the summit.
The total time for the ascent is usually between 6 and
9 hours.
Sunrise at the summit of Cotopaxi is an amazing experience. From here you can see all the snow-capped
volcanoes of Ecuador, northwards well beyond the
Colombian border, and the continental divide between
the Amazon to the east and the Pacific lowlands to the
west. You will also be able to peer into Cotopaxi’s huge,
active, sulphurous crater (800m by 600m). We’ll start
descending soon, to avoid risks of soft afternoon snow.
The descent takes less than half as long, but we’ll take
it slowly as the majority of accidents occur on the way
down. Our support vehicle will be waiting just below
the refuge to transfer us back to Quito where the rest
of the day is free for some well deserved relaxation, a
hot shower, a hearty meal and maybe even a beer…
Day 9 B Today you are driven to Quito airport for your
flight home or onwards.
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Golden-headed Quetzal. Phil Farrer
Ecuador
Birdwatching
E
Violet-tailed Sylph. Phil Farrer
cuador is one of the premier birding destinations in the world, not only for
the sheer number and variety of its birds, but for the wonderful places where they can be seen
and enjoyed with only a modest amount of time spent travelling.
Ecuador has the highest biodiversity of any country on Earth and is one of the richest in avifauna (15% of the
world’s bird species in less than 0.2% of the planet’s surface). About 1,600 species have been recorded for the
mainland and a further 38 are endemic to the Galápagos Islands. A high proportion (84%) are permanent residents rather than migratory. Remarkably, in the last 10 years nearly 200 species have been added to Ecuador’s list.
Ecuador is coming of age as a birding destination. An
authoritative field guide has now been published (The
Birds of Ecuador R.S. Ridgely and P.J. Greenfield, 2001).
There are first rate ornithologist guides based permanently in the country, and there is a good selection of
birder-oriented hotels and guest houses.
There is much diversity of habitat and micro habitat
within each mainland region, sometimes creating
‘islands’ or centres of endemism that hold a tremendously high and unique speciation.
Ecuador can be divided into four birding areas:
• Andes The Andes chain is a major contributor to
Ecuador’s biodiversity. Species change on the descent through many life-zones: from snow-covered
mountain peaks, high páramos and valleys, down
through many gradations of temperate and subtropical forest habitats.
• Amazon Ecuador’s eastern lowlands include a portion of the great forests of the Amazon basin, with
their fabulously intense speciation.
The mainland tailor-made birdwatching holidays
outlined here are based on itineraries prepared under
the close supervision of Paul Greenfield, co-author of
The Birds of Ecuador. A noted naturalist as well as an
expert ornithologist, Mr Greenfield, who lives in Ecuador, is available on special request to lead tailor-made
birdwatching tours for Geodyssey clients.
• Pacific The cold Humboldt current influences the
southern coast’s Tumbesian bioregion of desert,
arid scrub, thorn-forest, tropical dry forest, deciduous and semi-evergreen ceiba forests, through to
lower montane cloud forest. The northern coast
receives less of this influence and is characterised
by wet forest. This is the Chocó bioregion. Both are
regions of exceptional endemism.
We price our tailor-made tours in two ways:
Western Emerald
‘San Isidro’ Owl. Phil Farrer
• accompanied by a local driver only, leaving you to
identify your own birds or use lodge guides where
available
Masked Tityra. Phil Farrer
Torrent Ducks. Phil Farrer
• accompanied by a specialist ornithologist guide
who is also your driver
• Galápagos Islands An astonishing bird world of its own
with a high proportion of land bird endemics
22
Flame-faced Tanager. Phil Farrer
Geodyssey specialises in independent and tailormade birdwatching holidays in the neotropics. The
range of birding opportunities we can offer in Ecuador
is very extensive, covering all the main sites and those
of interest to the specialist. Because our expertise is in
travel and logistics, backed by a good understanding
what birders need and of current conditions for birders ‘on the ground’, we are able to design and support
tailor-made birdwatching trips to suit a wide range of
interests, styles and budgets.
GEODYSSEY
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Birdwatching
Birds of
Northern Ecuador
Birds of
Southern Ecuador
16 days / 15 nights. Starts and ends in Quito. Designed to start on any day of the week.
Designed to start on any day of the week.
Highlands, cloud forests, Chocó bioregion species and Amazon lowlands.
Quito
Day 1 You will be met on arrival off your chosen international flight and transferred to a 3* hotel in Quito.
Yanacocha Forest and Nono-Mindo Road
Day 2 BLD A pre-dawn departure for the northwest slope
of Mt Pichincha to birdwatch in the Yanacocha forest at
around 3,300m. This is a high temperate zone habitat
where hummingbirds are a major highlight, eg Shining
Sunbeam, Mountain Velvet breast, Great Sapphirewing, Buff-winged Starfrontlet, three species of pufflegs
including the rare endemic Black-breasted Puffleg and
Purple-backed Thornbill. We hope to encounter foraging flocks of tanagers, flower piercers, and furnariids,
and listen for antpittas and tapaculos. In the afternoon
continue birding downhill on the Nono–Mindo Road
through lower temperate and subtropical forests to
Tandayapa, our base for the next 2 nights.
Tandayapa and Bellavista
Day 3 BLD A full day of birdwatching along forest trails
and roadside habitats around Tandayapa and Bellavista. Nearly 300 species have been recorded here, including 35 species of tanager, Black-and-chestnut Eagle,
Golden-headed and Crested Quetzals, Toucan Barbet,
Plate-billed Mountain-Toucan, Powerful Woodpecker
and Andean Cock-of-the-Rock. Sit mesmerized as up to
20 species of hummingbird come to the feeders.
Tinalandia
Day 4 BLD Morning drive south to Tinalandia, birding
en route with stops in Mindo, San Miguel de los Bancos and Pedro Vicente Maldonado—humid lowland
rainforest where a number of Chocó endemics can be
found, eg Indigo-crowned Quail-Dove, Double-banded
Greytail, Fulvous-vented Euphonia, Emerald and Scarlet-and-white Tanagers and the near-threatened Bluewhiskered Tanager. Stay 3 nights at Tinalandia at 600m
on the Andes western slopes at the Chocó bioregion’s
southern end. Over 350 species are recorded here.
Day 5 BLD Dawn birding in the grounds of Tinalandia,
then walk the trails and skirt the golf-course in search
of parrots, Red-headed and Orange-fronted Barbets,
Pale-mandibled Aracari and Chocó and Chestnutmandibled Toucans, woodpeckers, trogons, motmots,
jacamars, woodcreepers, antbirds, flycatchers and
tanagers. In the afternoon bird the lower section of the
Chiriboga Rd in search of Torrent Duck, White-capped
Dipper and more. Night birding is also a good option.
Río Palenque Biological Centre
Day 6 BLD Today take a day-trip south to Río Palenque
Biological Centre in the lowlands at about 100m. This
small patch of tropical forest offers great birding and
as you walk the labyrinth of forest trails you will find
yet another subset of species not found at other sites.
Highlights include Pacific Parrotlet, Pallid Dove, Bronzy,
Baron’s and Stripe-throated Hermits, Ecuadorian
and Northern White-tailed Trogons, Chocó Toucan,
Slaty-winged Foliage-gleaner, Red-billed Scythebill,
several ant birds, Black-headed Antthrush, dozens of
flycatchers, Purple-throated Fruitcrow, White-bearded
Manakin, Whiskered and Song Wren, Black-lored Yellowthroat, Grey-and-Gold Warbler, Golden-hooded and
Tawny-crested Tanagers and Scarlet-rumped Cacique.
species seen are Andean Snipe, Rufous-bellied Seedsnipe, Ecuadorian Hillstar, Stout-billed Cinclodes,
Bar-winged Cinclodes, Tawny Antpitta, Streak-throated
Bush-Tyrant, Red-crested Cotinga, Scarlet-bellied
Mountain-Tanagers, Buff-breasted Mountain-Tanagers,
and Black-backed Bush-Tanagers.
San Isidro
Day 9 BLD Early this morning head to lower elevations on
the eastern flanks of the Andes around San Isidro for
2 days of superb birding in an area of subtropical and
temperate montane forest.
Among the highlights here are Dusky Piha, Whitecapped Tanager, Red-hooded Tanager, Inca Jay, Sicklewinged Guan, Masked Trogon, Tyrannine Woodcreeper,
Greater Scythebill, Highland Tinamou, Bicoloured
Hawk, Broad-winged Hawk, Black-chested Fruiteater,
Green-and-Black Fruiteater and Andean Cock-of-theRock (eastern subspecies). Stay 2 nights at Cabañas
San Isidro.
Day 10 BLD A full day birding at Cordillera de los Huacamayos and Loreto Road. The area is dominated by
montane and lower montane cloud forest from 2,300m
to just 200m, a forest bridge to lowland rainforest with
several eco-tones. The area provides chances for a
good number of rare and localised species restricted to
eastern Andean foothills. Tanagers are well represented
in the entire area, especially at lower elevations where
some good mixed flocks are seen. They may include
Orange-eared, Golden-eared, Paradise and Saffroncrowned Tanagers.
Near the summit of the Guacamayos Cordillera, find
Black-billed Mountain Toucan and White-rimmed Brush
Finch. Other interesting possibilities are Orange-breasted Falcon, Black-mandible Toucan, Golden-collared
Honeycreeper, Fasciated Tiger Heron, Plum-throated
Cotinga, Military Macaw and Subtropical Cacique,
among many others. Nocturnal highlights include
Rufous-bellied Nighthawk and Lyre-tailed Nightjar.
Day 11 BL A morning’s birding at San Isidro, then return
up the eastern slopes, stopping for species missed on
the way down. Stay at your 3* hotel in Quito. Dinner is
not included so you can explore the city if you wish.
Amazon
Day 12–14 BLD A morning flight to Coca to be transferred
by fast riverboat to your chosen rainforest lodge: Napo
Wildlife Centre, La Selva or Sacha Lodge—your base for
the next 3 nights, full board, with wildlife excursions
led by the lodge’s resident guides (see p14).
Day 15 B Return by river to Coca and then by plane to
Quito around lunchtime; met and transferred to stay at
the same hotel as Day 1. Rest of the day free.
Day 16 B You are transferred to Quito airport for your
return flight home, or onwards to the Galápagos.
GEODYSSEY
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ECUADOR
Day 1 You are met on the arrival of your chosen international flight and transferred to a 4* hotel in Guayaquil.
Manglares-Churute
Day 2 BLD A morning’s birdwatching at Manglares-Churute, an important reserve of extensive mangrove forest and large freshwater marsh. Drive to Buenaventura,
near Piñas, in the afternoon. Stay 2 nights at Jocotoco
Foundation’s Umbrellabird Lodge, Buenaventura.
Buenaventura
Day 3 BLD Full day’s birdwatching at Buenaventura. This
superb and easily accessible area of steep forested
slopes combines the southern limit of the Chocó avifaunal region with the Tumbesian region. It was made
famous in 1980 by the discovery of a new parakeet,
the El Oro Parakeet. The area boasts an impressive list,
including 8 threatened and 4 near-threatened species,
and a wide range of local wet-forest species. Pacific
Royal and Grey-breasted Flycatchers and Ochraceous
Attela can be seen along this road. You can get into
several impressive tanager flocks, which may have
Rufous-throated Tanager, and several joining species
like Russet Antshrike. Raptors include Black and Ornate
Hawk Eagles and Crested-eagle (rare). A possible find is
the Long-Wattled Umbrella Bird.
Day 4 BLD Further birdwatching this morning at
Buenaventura then transfer to the small town of Loja in
the afternoon, birding en route. Overnight at La Casa
Lojana, for 2 nights.
Podocarpus NP: Cajanuma Sector
Day 5 BLD A full day of birding in the Cajanuma sector of
Podocarpus National Park. With 210 species this wet
area has the highest number of bird species of any
cloudforest and elfin forest/páramo eco-tone in the
world (2,500m–3,200m). It is home to 5 threatened, 9
near-threatened and 9 restricted-range species including Bearded Guan, Red-faced Parrot, Golden-plumed
Parakeet, Rainbow Starfrontlet, Purple-throated Sunangel, Orange-banded Flycatcher, Masked MountainTanager and Chestnut-bellied Cotinga which was first
seen here. The main entrance has been cited as one of
the best spots in the world, in terms of variety and ease
of access, for watching Andean birds.
Loja - Vilcabamba - Tapichalaca
Day 6 BLD Head south today to Vilcabamba, stopping
along the way to pick up more Tumbesian specialities: Amazilia Hummingbird, Pacific Hornero, Tawnycrowned Pygmy-Tyrant, Tumbes and Southern-beardless Tyrannulets, Fasciated Wren, Rufous-browed
Peppershrike, Plumbeous-backed Thrush, Grey-andGold and Three-banded Warblers, Silver-backed Tanager (if you are lucky!), Scrub Blackbird, Yellow-tailed
Oriole, Saffron Finch and Streaked Saltator.
Arrive at the Jocotoco Foundation’s lodge at Tapichalaca for 2 nights, where you will be thrilled by the action at the hummingbird feeders. Staying at the lodge
allows us to visit in the early morning the site where
the Jocotoco Antpitta was recently discovered.
Day 7 BLD Depart early from Tinalandia for a long drive
to Los Chillos valley for high páramo birding in and
around the Antisana Reserve, including Laguna Micacocha—a landscape created by a colossal volcano that
erupted just 400 years ago. Stay 2 nights at Papallacta,
where hot springs are a well earned treat.
Tapichalaca Reserve: Quebrada Honda
Day 7 BLD A full day’s birdwatching in the Tapichalaca
Reserve. In addition to the sometimes elusive Jocotoco
Antpitta this area is home to Chestnut-crested Cotinga,
Chestnut-naped Antpitta, Dusky Piha, Red-hooded
and White-capped Tanagers, White-breasted Parakeet,
Scaly-naped Amazon and Red-billed Parrot. The upper
part of the Quebrada Honda trail is good for mixed
Masked Trogon. Phil Farrer
Day 8 BLD Depart early for Papallacta Pass, the highest
road in Ecuador. Your birding is at high páramo and
marsh areas, and Papallacta and Sucus lakes. Among
Guayaquil
More birding around Vilcabamba, most notably for
Plumbeous Rail, then continue working the road all the
way through arid habitats and up into humid temperate zone forest to Tapichalaca.
Antisana Ecological Reserve
Papallacta
Tumbesian bioregion. Mangroves, tropical dry
forest, inter-Andean valleys, and highlands
23
Ecuador
Loja-Zamora Road
Day 9 BLD Today we travel early to the village of Zamora.
This is another fascinating transect and again you
will witness great diversity as you descend through
temperate, subtropical and foothill zone habitats.
Some of the specialities include Maroon-tailed and
White-breasted Parakeets, Green Hermit, Blue-fronted
Lancebill, Rufous-capped Thornbill, Amethyst Woodstar, Emerald Toucanet, Yellow-vented Woodpecker,
Ash-browed Spinetail, Spectacled Prickletail, Montane
Foliage-gleaner, Cliff Flycatcher, Rufous-tailed Tyrant,
Amazonian Umbrellabird, Inca Jay, Golden-eyed Flowerpiercer, and Orange-eared, Golden-eared, Saffroncrowned, and Flame-faced Tanagers. Stay 2 nights at
Copalinga Lodge.
Podocarpus NP: Bombuscaro sector
Day 10 BLD Visit the Bombuscaro sector of the Podocarpus reserve. This rich area offers opportunities to find
many rare and very local species that inhabit these
foothill forests. Slowly walk the park´s trails in search
of White-breasted Parakeet, Coppery-chested Jacamar,
Highland Motmot, Black-streaked Puffbird, Chestnuttipped Toucanet, Dusky Spinetail, Ecuatorian Greytail,
Lined Antshrike, Foothill Antwren, Mottle-backed
Elaenia, Olive-chested Flycatcher, Lemon-browed Flycatcher, Amazonian Umbrellabird, Blue-rumped Manakin, Grey-mantled Wren, and a spectacular number of
Tangara Tanagers.
G
alápagos’ bird list is just 120 species,
but of these 23 are endemic and 4 are
near endemic. Birds here are amazingly fearless. For sheer spectacle, walking by
a colony of nesting sea birds on Española or
Genovesa is hard to beat.
If land birds are a particular interest then you
might stay for a few days at a hotel on Santa Cruz,
such as Finch Bay Hotel, after your chosen cruise.
If you base yourself there fully you would miss the
4 single-island endemics: Medium Tree-Finch and
Charles Mockingbird (both on Floreana), Chatham
Island Mockingbird (San Cristóbal) and Hood Mockingbird (Española) but could pick up all the rest.
Some key sea bird species have limited distribution, eg Red-footed Boobies (largest colony: Genovesa), Flightless Cormorant (Isabela and Fernandina),
Galápagos Penguin (largest colonies: Isabela and
Fernandina) and Waved Albatross (Española: April to
December).
Only a few boats include all 3 of these outlying islands. They tend to be the larger boats offering only
7 night cruises. Currently these include: Alta, Eclipse,
Eric/Letty/Flamingo, Evolution, Galápagos Explorer
II, Galápagos Legend, Isabella II, Lammer Law, Parranda and Santa Cruz—see page 30.
Zamora-Loja-Cuenca
Day 11 BL A birding drive from Zamora to Loja, then from
Loja to Cuenca. Possible species on the way include the
endangered Black-billed Shrike-Tyrant, White-browed
Chat-Tyrant and even Condor at Río León. Stay 2 nights
at a 3* hotel in Cuenca, see page 6.
Cajas NP
Day 12 BL Visit Cajas National Park today focusing on
its higher altitude habitats. Look for the rare endemic
Violet-throated Metaltail as you bird your way to the
páramo at the top of the pass. Enjoy a picnic lunch
to the tune of Ecuadorian Hillstar and Blue-mantled
Thornbill, Tit-like Dacnis and Giant Conebill, Andean
Teal and Andean Ruddy Duck, Bar-winged and Stoutbilled Cinclodes. Today’s targets also include Carunculated Caracara, Andean Condor, Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle, Andean Gull, Yellow-billed Pintail, Páramo
Ground-Tyrant, Red-rumped Bush-Tyrant, Red-crested
Cotinga, and Plumbeous Sierra-Finch and many other
páramo species that are found here.
Day 13 BLD Return to the park this morning this time to
the lower Llaviuco section, and walk to a small lake to
bird shrubbery and woodland. While this is a relatively
leisurely day, the results should be very rewarding.
Look for several species of hummingbird and for mixed
feeding flocks—this will probably be the first chance
to see the Grey-breasted Mountain-Toucan and an
interesting array of montane birds such as Turquoise
Jay, Masked Trogon, Spectacled Whitestart, Masked
Flowerpiercer and Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager.
Drive down to Gualaceo to stay 2 nights at Parador
Turistico Gualaceo.
24
Galápagos Hawk. Pierre Thomas
There are 29 land bird species, of which 22 are
endemic—most famously the 13 species of Darwin’s
finch. There are also 4 Nesomimus mockingbirds,
Galápagos Hawk, Galápagos Dove, Galápagos Martin, Galápagos Rail and Galápagos Flycatcher. These
are mostly found on the larger islands.
Flightless Cormorant. Pierre Thomas
You might choose to drive a little further south, to
search for some of the Marañón valley endemic species
that have worked their way north. Among the possibilities: Tawny-breasted Tinamou, Plain-breasted Hawk,
Bearded Guan, Golden-plumed Parakeet, Scaly-naped
Amazon, Rufous-banded Owl, Collared Inca, Chestnut-breasted Coronet, Amethyst-throated and Flamethroated Sunangels, Glowing Puffleg, Grey-breasted
Mountain-Toucan, Chestnut-naped and Jocotoco Antpittas, Ocellated Antpitta, Rufous-headed Pygmy-Tyrant, Smoky Bush-Tyrant, Martañon Thrush, Pale-footed
Swallow, Grass-green Tanager and Superciliaried,
Black-capped and Black-headed Hemispingus. Bird the
road back to Loja in the afternoon, to overnight at La
Casa Lojana.
Birdwatching
on the Galápagos
Nazca Booby juvenile. Pierre Thomas
Day 8 BLD Morning at Tapichalaca watching for mixed
foraging flocks and searching out some of the skulking
species of the forest under-storey by the excellent forest trails, along the roadside and even from the porch!
Large Cactus Finch. Pierre Thomas
species flocks: look for Tyrannine Woodcreeper, Orange-banded Flycatcher and Masked Saltator.
Gualaceo-Limón Road
Guayaquil
Day 14 BLD A pre-dawn departure to take advantage of
the very rich Gualaceo-Limón Road. The birding begins as the sun comes over the pass in one of the few
places in the world where one can easily bird very high
temperate elfin forest in search of the mixed flocks and
the specialities that forage in them: Mouse-coloured
Thistletail, Glossy Flowerpiercer, the very rare Masked
Mountain-Tanager, Black-backed Bush-Tanager and
Pale-naped Brush-Finch, will be just some of your
targets as well as a variety of special hummingbirds
that include Great Sapphirewing, Glowing Puffleg and
Rainbow-bearded Thornbills. This transect changes
subtly as you drop in altitude and so do the species of
birds you will see. The temperate and subtropical zone
species to be encountered are many. Some highlights
include White-throated and White-rumped Hawk, Viridian Metaltail, Amethyst-throated Sunangel, Emerald
Toucanet, Crimson-mantled Woodpecker, Olive-backed
and Strong-billed Woodcreepers, Pearled Treerunner,
Montane Foliage-gleaner, Black-throated Tody-Tyrant,
Barred Becard, Barred Fruiteater, Blue-backed Conebill,
Orange-eared, Flame-faced, Golden Tanagers and (if
you are lucky) the spectacular White-capped Tanager,
Lacrimose, Blue-winged, and Black-chested Mountain
Tanagers and the rare White-rimmed Brush-Finch.
Return to Gualaceo for the night.
Day 15 BL This morning take a birding drive to Guayaquil.
Stop at several locations en route with good chances of
species that inhabit the highlands, the subtropics, and
the lowlands of Manglares-Churute.
GEODYSSEY
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ECUADOR
Stay for 2 nights in Guayaquil at the same 4* hotel as
before.
Day 16 BL Depart early for a final morning’s birding in
Cerro Blanco, well known for its impressive dry forest
bird endemics, plus a great raptor list, making this a
great birding trip. The area is most notable for its population of endangered Great-green Macaw. Possible
sightings are the rare Rufous-headed Chachalaca, Greybacked Hawk and Pale-browed Tinamou, and some endemic parrots like Grey-cheeked Parakeet, Red-masked
Parakeet and Red-lored Amazon. The Tumbesian
endemics are abundant, with good chances of finding
Short-tailed Woodstar, Elegant crescent Chest, Collared
Antshrike, Black-capped Sparrow, and others.
Return to Guayaquil in the afternoon in good time for
overnight flights to Europe, or up to Quito for Amazon
lodges next day.
Alternatively, stay the night in Guayaquil to fly to the
Galápagos in the morning.
Birdwatching
Birds of the Amazon
From a birding perspective, each lodge is spectacularly good. Each has a very long list of around 550
species. Such high biodiversity is at the expense of low
numbers of individuals of each species, so while you
are virtually guaranteed an impressive list there is no
predicting what will be on it. Most birders choose a 4
night stay, but to find particular species you should
consider a longer stay. A longer stay should also mean
a nearly proportionately longer list, up to a point.
Hoatzin are plentiful, and Zigzag Heron is a speciality of both La Selva and Napo Wildlife Centre. Agami
Heron is also seen. Psittacidae include Scarlet Macaw,
Dusky-billed and Scarlet-shouldered Parrotlets and Orange-cheeked Parrot, Cobalt-winged and White-eyed
Parakeets. Hummers include Blue-chinned and Rufousthroated Sapphires. White-throated, Golden-green,
Ringed and Rufous-headed Woodpeckers are also seen.
Understorey species are found in plenty, particularly at
Napo Wildlife Centre, including Río Suno and Dugand’s
Antwrens, Chestnut-shouldered Antwren, Yellowbrowed, Black-and-white and White-plumed Antbirds, Black-spotted and Reddish-winged Bare-eyes,
Dot-backed and Banded Antbirds and Ochre-striped
Antpitta. Tyrant are abundant and three Cotingas, Purple-throated, Plum-throated and Spangled, are seen
widely. Amazonian Umbrellabird is often found. Wiretailed and Striped Manakins, Lawrence’s and Hauxwell’s
Thrushes, Paradise Tanager, Yellow-bellied Dacnis and
Short-billed Honeycreeper, Russet-backed, Crested and
Green Oropendolas are noteworthy.
All three lodges provide excursions to the same parrot/parakeet licks on the south bank of the Río Napo.
Napo Wildlife Centre
Napo Wildlife Centre is located on the south side of
the Napo river within its own 82 square mile reserve
area in the Yasuni National Park–a UNESCO Biosphere
Reserve with the highest documented tree diversity in
the world. An important consideration for birdwatching is that the terrain around the lodge (terra firma and
varzea forest), while similar to lodges on the north side
of the river, is here accompanied by small hills which
provide a greater variation of habitat. The lodge offers
a network of trails and a selection of river excursions.
The south side of the Napo is said to support 30%
more species than the north side, and the Napo Wildlife Centre’s current bird list records 565 species. We
found the senior guides to be broadly equal to the
other lodges. However, one of the leading local specialist birdwatching guides, with fabulous local birding
knowledge and field skills (and sparse but sufficient
English), is attached to this lodge—a definite plus
point.
La Selva
The senior guides are extremely pleasant and knowledgable about the natural history of the region, with a
knowledge of local birds that is more than sufficient for
most birders. Specialist birding guides can be drafted
in. The lodge’s private owners these days visit only a
couple of times a year, this shows in the general state
of the built facilities of this otherwise wonderful location. Trail and canoe excursions access terra firma and
varzea forest, palm swamp and two oxbow lakes. A tree
platform provides views over and into the canopy.
Scarlet Macaws at lick. Phil Farrer
The best access to the wildlife and birds of Ecuador’s western Amazon is provided by three excellent
jungle lodges situated within an hour of each other along the Napo river. Each is beautifully situated,
operates to a similar pattern, and offers a similar experience of the rainforest. Visitors fly to the small
town of Coca, to be met by fast river boats. See page 14 for a description of the general facilities of
each lodge.
Because of its longevity, La Selva is the lodge that is
best known by foreign birders and it has an extremely
impressive bird list of 530 species. This was reckoned
to be the second largest of any location in the world,
until the other two lodges prepared their lists! A wide
variety of other wildlife can be seen.
Sacha Lodge
Well promoted and efficiently run, Sacha Lodge receives a large number of visitors and offers substantial
and well maintained accommodation. Facilities include
a canopy platform in a kapok tree, and three metal
observation towers extending well above the canopy
connected by a 275m long metal walkway at a height
of 30m—unique to the area and a birding plus point.
There is a good variety of general excursions led by
a team of experienced guides, many of whom have
strong birding skills, supported by assistants drawn
from local communities. Specialist birdwatching guides
can be drafted in by arrangement. The lodge’s recently
updated birdlist claims 586 species.
Other wildlife includes an impressive list of monkeys,
many of which are readily seen, plus sloths, ant-eaters,
armadillos, racoons, small cats, tapir and reports of
puma.
Birds of the Pacific coast
6 days / 5 nights Starts and ends in Guayaquil. Designed to start on any day of the week. To combine with Birds of Southern Ecuador, Day 1 of this tour replaces Day 16 (an appropriate discount applies).
To combine with Birds of Northern Ecuador add a late afternoon flight from Quito to Guayaquil on Day 15. A self-drive, self-guided version of this tour is also possible.
Tumbesian bioregion. Dry forest, salt ponds, deciduous and semi humid woodland. Isla de la Plata.
Day 1 LD Depart early from Guayaquil to bird Cerro
Blanco (see Birds of Southern Ecuador, Day 16.)
Leaving Cerro Blanco, continue westwards to the Ecuasal pools—salt evaporation ponds near Salinas that
provide habitat for large numbers and a wide variety
of water birds and seem to be magnets for rarities.
Numerous water and coastal birds are resident and
breeding, notably Grey-hooded and Kelp Gull, Gullbilled Tern, and Snowy Plover. Chilean Flamingos are
usually here.
Drive north along the coast to stay at Hostería Atamari,
set on a promontory with superb views over the Pacific
Ocean. The hotel grounds are good for birding.
Ayampe River
Day 2 BLD A full day birdwatching at the Ayampe River,
a narrow, shallow river that doubles as a road and
normally can be navigated by vehicles with reasonable
clearance. Extensive deciduous and semi humid woodland and forest remains in various areas, including
along the main coastal road leading south. The road
Later, drive a short way north to Puerto López to stay at
Mantaraya Lodge, outside the town, for 4 nights.
Isla de la Plata
Day 3 BLD An early departure and boat ride takes you
to the highlight of Machalilla National Park: Isla de la
Plata. Pelagics can be quite a highlight of the boat trip
to the island, including White-vented Storm Petrel,
Wedge-rumped Storm Petrel and Parkinson’s Storm
Petrel, plus the large Waved Albatross.
Before arriving at the landing site, search carefully
along the cliffs and shores of the island. One of the
pelagics that may be spotted is the Red-footed Booby.
Enjoy a full day excursion as you land on the island and
hike the trails in search of Blue-footed Boobies, Nazca
(Masked) Boobies, Red-billed Tropicbirds, Magnificent
Frigatebirds, Waved Albatross, and many other sea
birds. Look for Short-tailed Woodstar, and the island’s
endemic subspecies of Long-tailed Mockingbird.
Between June and September the boat trip can also be
rewarding for cetaceans.
of them threatened, with notably large populations
of Ochre-bellied Doves, and Henna-hooded Foliagegleaners. Despite the diverse avifauna present, very
few foreign birders have discovered this area, making
your visit a quite special one to this pristine location.
Machalilla NP: humid forest and dry forest
Shore highway—Guayaquil
Day 4-5 BLD Two full days’ birding at Machalilla NP and
Cerro San Sebastián. Machalilla supports large populations of many Tumbesian endemics, and a host of other
interesting birds. Some of your avian companions
include the Pacific Royal Flycatcher, Collared Antshrike,
Ecuadorian Thrush, Guayaquil Woodpecker, and more.
Day 6 BL This morning depart early for coastal birding
along the shore highway. Parts of the road detour
inland, so you can add sea and shore birds, as well as
birds such as the Croaking-ground Dove, Pacific Parrotlet, Harris Hawk, Plumbeous Kite, Great Black Hawk,
King Vulture, Laughing Falcon, Yellow-tailed Oriole,
Scrub Blackbird and more.
Cerro San Sebastián is an 800m peak within the park,
rising from arid shrub, through deciduous forest and
woodland, to semi-humid and then cloud forest above
700m. The area is rich in endemic bird species, some
Waved Albatross
GEODYSSEY
passes through hills that are the only known breeding
area for the endangered Esmeraldas Woodstar.
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ECUADOR
Red Footed Booby
Cerro Blanco and Salinas
You arrive in Guayaquil by early afternoon in time for
evening flights home, or you could stay the night in
Guayaquil and fly to the Galápagos next day.
25
Sea Lions. Pierre Thomas
Opuntia Cactus. Pierre Thomas
Galápagos
Galápagos
which is tightly controlled to reduce its negative impacts, provides the considerable income needed to
fund conservation programmes to safeguard island
ecology, notably by the progressive eradication of
introduced species that are the greatest threat.
Beautiful and remote, the Galápagos was visited so
little in history and settled so recently that its animals
have not developed a fear of man.
Walking on the islands will bring you right up close
to courting or nesting sea birds, sun bathing iguanas,
relaxing sea lions or perhaps even a rare giant tortoise
ambling to its lunch. More often than not it will be you,
not the wildlife, that decides how close you approach.
Snorkelling is wonderful, with the thrill of swimming
with penguins, turtles and curious young sea lions who
seem to like nothing better than to show off their underwater acrobatics around you.
The thirteen major islands of the Galápagos straddle
the equator 600 miles west of mainland Ecuador. The
best way to see them is on one of the motor and sailing
yachts, large and small, that are based in the islands.
Cruising these ‘enchanted islands’ adds considerably to
the overall experience and gives access to the important sites. Hotels are available for the non-nautical.
The archipelago is a national park financed by visitor income. Preservation of its sensitive ecosystems
depends on the right balance between wildlife and
humans. Key issues include the impact of visitors and
their boats, immigration of settlers from the mainland,
and introduced species such as feral goats. Tourism,
There are limits on the number of visitors overall,
and to each particular landing site around the islands.
When ashore you must keep to the well thought out
system of paths. Boats are tightly regulated in such
matters as anchoring and effluent, and long-term allocation to fixed itineraries encourages responsibility
for their proper conservation. The end result is a very
workable system that achieves its goals while scarcely
diminishing the experience of visiting these fabulous
islands.
Oceanography
The Galápagos is at the junction of two circulating
ocean currents: a warm current from the Gulf of Panama in the north, and the cold Humboldt current from
the south. These two currents create conditions that
can suit both tropical and temperate species, which
explains why you will find sea lions and tropical fish,
penguins and flamingos at the same time.
A little light science may help to underscore why the
Galápagos is so special.
Further complexities in ocean currents at a more
local level lead to very different environments in the
eastern islands compared to those islands in the west
of the archipelago, so different species of plant and
animal are found on different islands.
Geology
The islands are situated over a ‘hot spot’ in the earth’s
crust where from time to time over the last 4 million
years eruptions have created submarine volcanoes
whose tips are the islands we see. Convection currents
in the earth’s crust are gradually pushing southeast, so
the islands are forming sequentially: as each new island is created it is gradually moved off the hot spot as
if on a conveyor belt. Volcanic activity then ceases and
the landscape is softened by erosion and events such
as caldera collapses. The newest islands, in the north
west, which were formed barely a million years ago,
therefore have the most dramatic topography.
Evolution
Sporadic colonisation and unusual ecologies have created a very high proportion of unique species ‘endemic’ to the Galápagos (that is, found only there). All but 2
of the 21 species of iguanas, lava lizards, geckos, snakes
and the giant tortoises are endemic to the archipelago.
Some species are restricted to a single island only.
29 species of land birds are found on the islands,
of which 22 are endemic, including most famously
Darwin’s 13 species of finch. On his visit to the islands
in 1835 Darwin observed their differently sized and
shaped beaks and concluded that they had been
adapted to exploit different niche food sources. The
Ecology
Sally Lightfoot crab. Pierre Thomas
As the Galápagos islands were formed volcanically
from the ocean bed they have never been connected
to the mainland. Consequently, all the land species
Giant Tortoise. JT
26
found here have colonised from some far-away source,
travelling by wind, or water, or attached to something
else—either as spores or seeds, or as entire plants or
animals. This process has been sporadic and random,
so niches have been filled by species that would not
have been able to do so on the mainland. For example,
no large mammals reached the Galápagos, so the largest natural herbivores on the islands are reptiles.
Bottlenose dolphin, taken over the side of a Zodiac. Pierre Thomas
T
he Galápagos islands offer a profound and unique experience of being on
equal terms with nature in an arcadian
paradise. Their physical beauty, world-class
wildlife, and the quality of the best yachts that
cruise the archipelago, combine to make a well
planned trip to the Galápagos a truly memorable experience that ranks near the top of many
travellers’ lifetime ‘must go there’ lists.
GEODYSSEY
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ECUADOR
Galápagos
A year in the Galápagos
The Galápagos year is always changing and there is
plenty to see at any time, so there is no ‘wrong’ time
to visit. Here is a summary of what you can expect
to find month-by-month.
Bartolomé Island. Pierre Thomas
December: The islands green over as the rainier
season starts. Still great weather: mostly sunny days,
hardly any wind, waters warmer. Giant tortoise eggs
hatch from now until April. Pacific green turtles
breed on Santa Cruz. Waved albatrosses fledge.
First red pouches of great frigatebirds at Genovesa.
Northern migrant birds and some whales and dolphins rest and feed on their journey south.
Cactus Finch has an edge crushing, probing bill to feed
on cactus seeds. The Woodpecker Finch has a biting
tipped beak and uses a tool, such as a cactus spine, to
probe holes in trees for wood-boring grubs. In Darwin’s
words from The Voyage of the Beagle :
“Seeing this gradation and diversity of structure in
one small, intimately related group of birds, one
might really fancy that from an original paucity
of birds in this archipelago, one species had been
taken and modified for different ends.”
Darwin eventually proposed in The Origin of Species
that evolution through variability of inherited qualities
and natural selection of individuals was the likely process by which this had occurred.
The extraordinary ecology of the Galápagos creates
a laboratory of evolution. Through Darwin, its animals
and plants have led us to understand a great deal more
about the natural world, our position within it, and
how we came to be here.
Conservation
In 1959 the 97% of the archipelago which is without
human population was declared a national park and
the Charles Darwin Foundation for the Galápagos
Islands (CDF) was created. In 1979 UNESCO declared
the Galápagos Islands a World Heritage Site.
The CDF’s research station on Santa Cruz island
runs a captive breeding programme for endangered
tortoises and land iguanas. Its main roles are scientific
research and education. The National Park Service
concentrates on conservation issues and strictly controls the impact of tourism in the islands. Park fees
fund important conservation programmes such as the
eradication of feral goats, which number 100,000 on
Santiago island alone.
When to visit the Galápagos
At any time of year, there is always something different
happening in the wildlife calendar (see panel).
Weather-wise, no season has perfect weather in
every respect, so deciding when to visit based on the
weather is very much a personal decision. The warm
Panama current usually dominates between December
and May, bringing sunny weather with occasional tropical showers that turn the islands green. Seas are generally calm, the average water temperature is 26°C (79°F)
and underwater visibility is good at 20-25m (60-80ft).
The daytime air temperature is generally 26-30°C (7985°F), but rather humid.
Between June and November the weather is cooler and
drier under the influence of the Humboldt current.
Temperatures are typically 23-26°C (72-79°F), reduced
by wind-chill that can make it a bit nippy to be on deck
without a fleece. Skies are often cloudless and rain is
scarce, but a fine mist called garúa can cloak the islands at a height of 300-600m. Snorkellers in the water
for any length of time should use a wet suit as water
temperatures decline to 19-23°C (67-72°F). Nutrient
levels rise, so underwater visibility may decrease to
10-15m (30-50ft).
The El Niño phenomenon occurs every 4-7 years. The
Humboldt current weakens and trade winds die down.
Sea temperatures rise and there is an increase in rain
primarily affecting the December to May season.
January: Land birds nest. Marine iguanas turn
green, red and black on Española. Green sea turtles
arrive to lay eggs until March. Land iguanas breed
on Isabela. Nazca boobies nest on Española. Air and
seas are warm until June. Ideal for snorkelling.
February: Greater flamingo start nesting on Floreana. Bahama pintail ducks start breeding. Marine
iguanas nest on Santa Cruz. Galápagos dove’s peak
nesting season. Highest sea temperatures, 25°C
(77°F)
March: Marine iguanas nest on Fernandina. Waved
albatross start to arrive on Española on about 21
March. Snorkel with penguins and tropical fish off
Isabela. Wettest month in rainy El Niño years. Hot
and humid. Air temperatures up to 30°C (86°F).
Swells on north shores.
April: Rains end, yet islands remain green. Waved albatross mass arrival and courtship, Española. Green
sea turtle eggs begin to hatch. Land iguana eggs
hatch on Isabela. Giant tortoise hatching season
ends. Good visibility for snorkellers. Together with
May one of the best months to visit.
May: Blue-footed boobies begin courtship on
North Seymour. Galápagos penguins very active on Bartolomé. Last of the sea turtle and land
iguana eggs hatch. Palo santo trees begin to shed
their foliage. Waved albatross start to lay eggs on
Española. Band-rumped storm petrels start nesting.
Sea temperature starts to drop towards the end of
the month.
June: Start of the drier season. Southeast trade
winds return, currents become stronger, seas pick
up. Giant tortoises on Santa Cruz migrate from
highlands to lowlands in search of nesting places.
Magnificent frigatebird males on North Seymour
develop their red pouches. Southern migrant birds
rest on their way north. Humpback whales seen. Sea
purslane near the shore turns red until December.
July: Sea birds actively breeding. Flightless cormorant courting, Fernandina. American oyster-catchers
nest, Santiago. Lava lizards start mating rituals until
November. Whales and dolphins most likely to be
seen off Isabela. Seas cool, 21°C (68°F)
August: Galápagos hawks court on Española and
Santiago. Nazca boobies and swallow-tailed gulls
nest on Genovesa. Migrant shore birds start to arrive and stay until March. Giant tortoises return to
the highlands of Santa Cruz. Sea lion pupping starts
in west and central islands. Seas at their coolest
18°C (64°F) and a bit choppy.
September: Peak of the garúa season. Air temperatures at their coolest: 19°C (66°F). Galápagos
penguins very active on Bartolomé. Sea lions very
active on west and central islands—harem-gathering males barking and fighting. Sea birds remain
active at their nesting sites.
Great Frigatebird with inflated courtship pouch. JT
Close encounter. Pierre Thomas
GEODYSSEY
October: Garúa mist in most locations, but less prolonged in the western islands. Lava herons nesting
until March. Galápagos fur seals start their mating
period. Blue-footed boobies raise chicks (Española
and Isabela). Sea lion pupping continues.
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ECUADOR
www.geodyssey.co.uk/ecuador November: Nice transitional weather between
seasons. Sea lions harem-gathering on the eastern
islands. Brown noddies breeding. Sea lion pups
display aqua-gymnastics to snorkellers. Trade winds
have dropped, seas calm. Water temperatures are
slowly rising.
27
Galápagos
The islands
A
ll the islands are volcanic, some
actively so, and their scenery is correspondingly varied and often dramatic.
Each has its own ecologies supporting different
species: a Galápagos guidebook is essential to
cover the details of so much diversity.
Flights from the mainland arrive at airstrips at either
Baltra or San Cristóbal. All cruises start at these entry
points or at Puerto Ayora, reached by road from Baltra.
[MAP]
Santa Cruz
Santa Cruz is the hub of the Galápagos, with the largest town, Puerto Ayora, on its south coast. Travelling
from the airstrip at Baltra Island to join a yacht moored
at Puerto Ayora you travel across the scrubby interior,
passing between The Twins—two large sink holes. The
Charles Darwin Research Station and its tortoise conservation and breeding centre are just outside Puerto
Ayora. At Black Turtle Cove, small boats are paddled in a
peaceful lagoon fringed with mangroves where pacific
green turtles breed between December and April and
schools of golden rays and spotted eagle rays fly in
formation through the water. In contrast, Turtle Beach
is a white sand beach: brown pelicans nest here and
flamingos are sometimes seen. North Seymour island, just
to the north of Baltra, has colonies of blue-footed boobies, swallow-tailed gulls and magnificent frigate birds.
South Plaza is another island just off Santa Cruz with a
shoreline packed with life: sea lions, land iguanas, swallow-tailed gulls, opuntia cactus and vegetation that
changes colour with the season.
San Cristóbal
San Cristóbal, supports another small town—Puerto
Moreno. Cerro Brujo offers a long white sand beach,
excellent for swimming and snorkelling, plus sea lions,
pelicans and boobies. All three species of booby can
usually be found at Punta Pitt. Just off the north shore,
the rocks of Léon Dormida resemble a sleeping lion, and
are frequented by tropicbirds, frigatebirds and boobies.
Española
The southernmost island boasts large nesting colonies
of blue-footed and Nazca boobies, a colony of endemic
marine iguanas, the fabulously chunky waved albatross (one of the heaviest sea birds weighing in at an
average 9lbs with a wingspan of 16ft) here from April
to December, and spectacular cliffs, all reached from
Punta Suarez. There are sea lions, Galápagos doves and
Darwin’s finches. The white sands of Gardner Bay are favoured by sunbathing sea lions, by turtles as a nesting
beach, and are home to an endemic mockingbird.
Floreana
Sands made green by crystals of olivine, a semiprecious stone, greet you as you land at Punta Cormorant. A
short walk leads to a view over a large lagoon which is
home to the archipelago’s largest population of flamingos, plus other waders. Between December and May
turtles nest on a white sand beach a short walk away.
Nearby is Devil’s Crown rock, a sunken cone with fabulous snorkelling. In Post Office Bay, a letter left in a barrel
originally placed here in 1793 would be picked out and
delivered to its address by sailors going that way: a
tradition maintained to this day by passing travellers.
find Galápagos doves, lava gulls, swallow-tailed gulls,
great frigatebirds and three species of finch. Prince
Philip’s Steps, incongruously named after the Duke of
Edinburgh, provides one of the few places where fur
seals are found; ascending this rockfall leads to a good
colony of red footed boobies; masked boobies, shorteared owls and storm petrels are also at home here.
Isabela
The small island of Rabida has a red beach fronting a
saltwater lagoon bordered by mangroves, popular with
sea lions. Pelicans nest in bushes by the beach. Around
the island are some beautiful snorkelling spots that are
great for beginners. 9 species of finch are found inland.
The largest island, with five of the biggest volcanoes.
Mostly barren, but there are some excellent sites to
visit around its coast. Darwin’s Lake, a fine crater lake, and
a volcano of the same name are accessible from the
impressive natural harbour of Tagus Cove where passing mariners have carved their names since Victorian
times. Trails from nearby Urvina Bay offer good prospects of seeing giant tortoises in the wild, plus large
colourful land iguanas and flightless cormorants. At
Elizabeth Bay, accessible only by panga, a lagoon sheltered by mangroves is home to turtles, rays, sea lions
and penguins. Punta Moreno has spectacular views of
volcanoes and impressive lava flows. Its pristine landscape provides a textbook lesson in early colonisation
by pioneer species. Brackish lagoons are filled with life,
including dragonflies, gallinules, ducks and very tame
flamingos. Many sea birds also visit. The small settlement at Puerto Villamil has a tortoise captive breeding
centre, and flamingos in the nearby lagoon; an excursion from here leads to Sierra Negra—the second largest
crater in the world after Ngorongoro.
Fernandina
Other islands
Sombrero Chino (Chinese Hat) just off Santiago is only accessible by the smallest yachts through a small channel
leading to a picturesque anchorage.
Daphne is a highly restricted but lovely small island
where a trail leads from a difficult landing site through
colonies of masked boobies to a summit above two
craters that are packed in season with nesting bluefooted boobies. Red-billed tropicbirds patrol the skies.
Santa Fé has its own endemic species of land iguana,
lava lizards and sea lion colonies. There are good swimming and snorkelling opportunities.
Many islands have alternative English names, mostly
after passing warships and admirals: Santa Cruz is
also called ‘Indefatigable’, San Cristóbal is ‘Chatham’,
Española is ‘Hood’, Floreana is ‘Charles’, Isabela is ‘Albemarle’, Fernandina is ‘Narborough’, Santiago is ‘James’,
Genovesa is ‘Tower’, and Santa Fé is ‘Barrington’.
Zodiac and sea lions. Pierre Thomas
The westernmost island, Fernandina is therefore also
youngest and most volcanically active: a 1,500m high
dome rises above empty lava fields. Punta Espinosa is a
very beautiful promontory with a backdrop of six volcanoes on Isabela. The water is rich in fish with corresponding intense activity from sea birds, dolphins and
even whales. Flightless cormorants, marine iguanas in
large numbers and penguins can be seen from trails.
Santiago
28
Genovesa
Boats enter the spectacular sunken crater of Genovesa,
a long sail north of the other islands. There are landings on the white sand beach at Darwin Bay, where rocks
and small lagoons make an attractive scene. Birders
GEODYSSEY
|
ECUADOR
www.geodyssey.co.uk/ecuador Land Iguana
Waved Albatross, Española. JT
Santiago offers several good sites and is on many
boats’ itineraries. Bartolomé Island provides a view looking back to Pinnacle Rock with Santiago behind it that
is one of the most photographed on the archipelago.
Lava flows and spatter cones add to the experience.
Sea lions patrol the landing site and penguins fly
through the water among snorkellers in the bay below.
Sullivan Bay has some fantastic lava formations and is
good for snorkelling. There’s a good shoreline walk
on the black sands of James Bay and to lava formations
where there is a fur seal colony.
Galápagos islands and cruises
Choosing a cruise
B
Cruising on well-crewed well-equipped boats built
and maintained to modern standards is never cheap.
The extra costs of being hundreds of miles into the Pacific means that a Galápagos cruise is going to absorb
a sizeable chunk of your holiday budget. It is all the
more important to make sure you get value for money.
This is where personal tastes and preferences come
in. You can choose between different sizes and styles
of boat, different routes around the islands, and how
many days you would like your cruise to last. Although
price and quality are not always in lock-step, for the
most part the higher the price the more comfortable
the boat will be and the better you will be looked after.
Book well in advance for the widest choice.
Style and size of boat
Several dozen boats ply the islands. There are large
purpose-built ‘expedition vessels’ akin to small cruise
ships, elegant schooner-rigged yachts with well appointed cabins, sturdy practical motor yachts converted for the Galápagos, and conventional sailing
yachts. We have chosen good examples in each style.
As conventional sailing yachts are usually cramped and
tend to become the worse for wear rather quickly there
are relatively few that, in our opinion, make the grade.
Larger boats tend to be faster and can include interesting outlying islands such as Fernandina and Genovesa. Most smaller boats drop one of these two sites.
Larger boats give a better ride. You might enjoy the
thrill of being tossed around a little (sometimes a lot) in
a smaller boat, but if your sea legs can be a bit wobbly
then you might play it safe and go for one of the bigger boats. Bunk berths are usual on smaller boats.
You are ferried from your mother vessel to each site
in a tender, usually a sturdy motorised Zodiac or RIB
called a panga. Larger boats form their passengers into
small groups of up to sixteen for the landings, with
each group usually going to a different landing site
in the area, so neither you nor the wildlife should feel
there is a crowd.
The camaraderie, personal attention and ‘away from
it all’ experience of a smaller boat weighs in their favour for many people.
Number of days
The usual choice is between 3 night, 4 night and 7
night cruises.
Marine Iguana. Pierre Thomas
ecause most visitor sites can only
be reached from the sea, the most appropriate, and almost the only, way to see
the Galápagos is by boat. At its best, the combination of marvellous wildlife, a fine quality boat,
and first-rate naturalist guides makes for a truly
memorable and enriching trip.
Finch Bay Hotel
If your budget will stretch to it and you are keen to
see the islands fully, you should definitely go for a 7
night cruise. This allows enough time to see most of
the interesting sites in the archipelago.
Round off your visit with a few days at Finch Bay Hotel, a stylish low rise hotel by a secluded bay, a short
water taxi ride from Puerto Ayora. Its 21 rooms are air
conditioned, with
balconies and en
suite bathrooms.
There is a bar, full
restaurant, spacious
pool and sunbathing area.
Some boats only offer 7 night cruises. The larger
boats offer 3 and 4 night options which can be combined to make up a 7 night cruise. This works reasonably well, with the slight disadvantage that if you are
staying for the full 7 nights you may find guides having
to repeat themselves in the field for the benefit of
people who have just joined and excursions on the
change-over day may be a bit thin.
The hotel is well located for walks and day trips by
boat. Activities that can be arranged at the hotel
include hiking, mountain biking, sea kayaking, and
scuba diving. You are just steps from the beach and
tidal lagoons, cliffs and cactus forests where many of
Darwin’s finches and other wildlife can be found. The
Charles Darwin Research Station is also nearby.
A 3 night cruise is really too short unless you are
pressed for time or keen not to spend long at sea.
Whatever length of cruise you choose bear in mind
the cost of the flight from mainland Ecuador and the
national park fee, which are the same no matter how
long your trip. Consider also that much of the first day
of your ‘cruise’ will be taken up by the flight, travel from
the landing strip to the boat, and safety drills and administration on board the vessel.
You should also consider the Finch Bay Hotel near
Puerto Ayora, from which there are day trips to nearby
sites. A stay here can not only make a short cruise more
worthwhile, but also rounds off time at sea with relaxation at the hotel pool or local beach.
Itinerary
Each boat has its own itinerary agreed with the authorities to control visitor numbers at each site each
day. Occasionally there will be a temporary or permanent change in the itinerary, usually for conservation or
safety reasons.
Female Lava Lizard. Pierre Thomas
By and large, each boat has a well balanced itinerary
providing a good all-round experience of the islands. If
you have a particular interest in visiting certain islands
more than others, then you should study the itineraries carefully to meet your needs (our website has the
details). Even so, there is always a possibility that the
itinerary you chose will be changed.
Boats typically move between sites before dawn and
during lunch, making best use of the morning and
afternoon for visits ashore.
Connections
Red Footed Booby feet. Phil Farrer
Most people combine the Galápagos with one of our
tours of mainland Ecuador. When cruises are in short
supply it is usually possible to split a visit to the mainland to fit in with available cruise dates: we are adept
at ingenious solutions to this problem.
GEODYSSEY
It is possible, if time is short, to arrive in Quito, overnight and catch a flight to the islands next day, but it is
better to pause a while on the mainland first.
|
ECUADOR
Blue Footed Booby. JT
Flights to the islands leave Quito and Guayaquil in the
morning, and return to the mainland early in the afternoon, in time for flights to Europe from Guayaquil.
29
Galápagos cruises
The boats
The vessels shown all have air-conditioned or
climate controlled cabins, with private WC and
freshwater shower unless otherwise stated, and
experienced English-speaking naturalist guides.
Cruises generally provide two land visits a day
of about 2-3 hours long, plus swimming and
snorkelling opportunities.
Sailing yachts only put up their sails occasionally when conditions are appropriate—more for
romance than conveyance.
We constantly review our selection of boats:
for updates please see the Booking Information
leaflet that comes with this brochure, or our
website. They also provide itineraries and prices.
maximum number of passengers
number of naturalist guides
length overall in feet
cruising speed in knots
number of crew
length of itinerary (nights)
day of departure
Luxury class
Isabella II
P40 G3 L166 K10 C24 7N Tue
Luxurious, thoughtfully-designed, fast, stable
and well run. Plenty of space, comfort and
facilities for just 40 lucky guests. Star-gazing,
glass-bottomed boat. Snorkelling equipment
provided.
First class – large
Eclipse
Lammer Law (diving)
Eric, Flamingo and Letty
Mistral II (diving)
P48 G4 L210 K14 C29 7N Sat
Extremely spacious, stable ship with attractive
elegant décor in public areas. 27 twin/double
cabins and 4 suites. Library, shop, pool, doctor.
Breakfast is taken indoors while lunch and
dinner are usually eaten al fresco under an
awning. Snorkelling equipment is provided
and wet suits are available for hire.
P16 G1 L93 K10 C7 7N Sun
Stylishly modern motor sailer trimaran. 8
roomy cabins each with twin beds convertible
to a double. Spacious communal areas. All
meals are served outside. In addition to their
nature cruises they offer some dedicated dive
departures with 2-3 immersions per day plus
night dives. And some ‘active’ departures combining nature and 3 dives during the cruise.
P20 G2 L83 K10 C8 5,7N Sun
Three identical motor cruisers which travel in
convoy. 7 twin and 3 double cabins. Unusually
high ratio of guides to clients and a very good
itinerary. Clear bottomed sea kayaks and wet
suits are available for use at no extra charge
on a first come first served basis. Snorkelling
equipment is provided. Diving can be pre-arranged for days 2 and 5 of the cruise at extra
cost. Some special family friendly departures.
P12 G1 L74 K12 C5 7N Sun
A small motor cruiser with 6 small cabins each
with upper and lower single bunks. Indoor and
outdoor dining areas. In addition to its nature
cruises this boat offers some dedicated diving
and some ‘active’ departures as per ‘Lammar
Law’ above.
Evolution
Parranda
P32 G2 L190 K10 C18 7N Sun
A 4-masted motor sailer newly built in 1920’s
style. 14 cabins (singles, twin and doubles)
plus 4 suites. Library, shop, pool, doctor, indoor
and al fresco dining. Kayaks and snorkelling
equipment. Special departures include ‘family
friendly’ and ‘active’, combining nature/diving.
P16 G1 L125 K12 C7 7N Sun
Spacious motor cruiser with stabilizers
(unusual for a small boat). 8 cabins with twin
beds, most convertible to a double. Open-sided
covered aft dining area with drop down side
awning. 2 double kayaks, snorkels, masks and fins provided.
Sagitta
P16 G1 L120 K8 C8 7N Wed
3-masted, barque rigged, motor sailer with
wood and brass fittings. 10 cabins all with 1
double lower berth and 1 single upper bunk.
Generous public areas. 4 twin sea kayaks. Only
a small selection of fins and masks on board so best to bring your own.
First class – small
Alta
P16 G1 L140 K10 C8 7N Sun
A ketch rigged, 3-masted schooner with 8
cabins (a mix of twins and doubles). Plenty of
deck space and a good itinerary.
Sky Dancer (diving)
P16 G2 L100 K12 C9 7N Sun (10N Mon Thu)
Specialist ‘Peter Hughes’ dive boat. Instructor
and Divemaster on board. 8 twin cabins. 7N
cruises include 19 dives and 4 land excursions
with up to 4 dives a day. Mostly drift dives
along rocks and pinnacles. Wolf and Darwin for giant manta ray, hammerheads,
whale sharks. Photo/video lab. Nitrox, photo and dive equipment rental service.
Galápagos Explorer II
P100 G6 L290 K17 C70 3,4,7N Sat Wed
The largest ship in the Galápagos. Very spacious with a touch of glitz. Ideal for the less
nimble–lift and no thresholds. 50 identical
cabins with twin beds convertible to doubles,
a small sitting area, mirrored wall, TV system,
safe, mini-bar and phone. Pool, jacuzzi,
infirmary with doctor, piano lounge, dance
floor, massage, 2 glass bottomed boats for
non-snorkellers.
Galápagos Legend
P100 G6 L300 K15 C60 3,4,7N Mon Thu
All the amenities of a cruise liner. 54 cabins in
a range of styles, all with twin beds that can
be put together. 60 crew including a doctor
and 6 naturalist guides. Piano lounge, pool,
kids corner and computer games for teenagers.
Museum, library, hammock terrace, auditorium, lounge and dining room. Glass-bottomed
boat. Laundry service.
Santa Cruz
P90 G6 L240 K13 C52 3,4,7N Mon Fri
46 cabins, in a range of styles mostly with twin
beds, 2 triple, 4 quadruple, 4 suites. Jacuzzi,
library, shop, infirmary with doctor, stargazing,
glass bottomed boat and snorkelling equipment provided. Extremely well-run operation
with high maintenance and safety a priority
Special early dinner sitting for children.
Superior tourist class – small
Archipel I and II (diving)
Cachalote
P16 G1 L87 K11 C8 4,7N Mon Thu
Two identical, partly solar powered, eco-catamarans. Each with 2 double and 7 twin cabins.
50% of their itinerary is focused on snorkelling
or scuba with opportunity for 1 immersion per
day except on flight days. 4 double sea kayaks
P16 G1 L96 K9 C6 7N Wed
Ketch-rigged motor sailer with 3 wooden
decks. 8 cabins with upper single bunk and
lower slightly wider berth.
Samba
P12 G1 L78 K9 C5 7N Tue
Motor cruiser (with stabilising sail). Cabins
with upper and lower single bunks, 6 en suite,
1 with shower/WC across corridor. Indoor and
outdoor dining options.
Beagle
P12 G1 L105 K8 C6 7N Tue
A teak decked, schooner rigged, motor yacht.
6 cabins each with a double lower berth and
single upper bunk plus 1 single cabin. Meals
served inside or on deck. 2 kayaks.
Sea Cloud
P8 G1 L84 K9 C4 7N Wed
Ketch-rigged motor sailer. 4 cabins with upper
single bunk and lower slightly wider berth.
Tip Top II and III
Tip Top II P16 G1 L85 K9 C7 4,7N Fri Mon
Tip Top III P16 G1 L98 K12 C7 4,7N Fri Mon
Near identical motor cruisers that tour together. Tip Top II has 8 twin and 1 double cabins, III
has 6 twin, 2 double and 2 with double lower
and single upper bunk. Snorkelling equipment. Diving must be pre-booked.
Guests joining on Fri for 4 nights stay the last night in a hotel on Galápagos.
Beluga
P16 G1 L110 K12 C8 7N Fri
Spacious motor yacht. 8 cabins (2 double, 4
twin, 2 twin with upper/lower bunks). Optional diving, which must be pre-booked.
Tourist class – small
Angelito
First class – medium
P16 G1 L70 K8 C6 4,7N Sun
Motor cruiser with 8 cabins. 1 double, 7 with
bunks
Coral I and II
30
I P26 G2 L118 K10 C10 3,4,7N Wed Sun
II P20 G2 L108 K10 C10 3,4,7N Wed Sun
Two sister motor cruisers which cruise together. Cabins with twin beds that can be put
together. Coral I has a Jacuzzi. High quality
furnishings in attractive salon area. Snorkelling
equipment on board.
Diamante
GEODYSSEY
P12 G1 L87 K9 C5 7N Wed
Brigantine schooner motor sailer—a modern
version of the great naval training ships. 6 cabins (3 twin, 1 double, 2 upper and lower single
bunks). Indoor and outdoor dining options.
Mahogany and teak fittings for a romantic maritime ambience.
|
ECUADOR
Sea Man (diving)
P16 G1 L76 K9 C7 4,7N Mon Tue
Motor cruiser with some special diving
departures. 8 cabins with bunks. Snorkelling
equipment and sea kayaks provided. Guests
joining on Mon for 4 nights stay the last night
in a hotel on Galápagos.
Add-ons
Add-ons
While there is plenty in Ecuador to satisfy the most demanding, it is tempting to add a visit to Peru to see Machu Picchu. For reliable sun all year round,
Venezuela and Bonaire are good choices and, depending on your airline, can be neatly fitted in on your way home.
7 days / 6 nights Designed to start on Tue, Wed, Fri or Sat
A week in Peru visiting the classic Incan sites.
Day 1 Late afternoon flight from Ecuador (Guayaquil or
Quito) to Lima, Peru. You will be met on arrival at the
airport and transferred to a 3* hotel in the capital.
Day 2 BLD Morning flight to Cusco where you will be met
and taken to visit the Quechua market at Chincheros
(Thursdays and Sundays) and the striking, white, salt
pan terraces at Maras. Then you are driven to a 3*
hotel in the Sacred Valley of the Incas near Urubamba,
your base for the next 2 nights. Here you can start to
acclimatise to the high altitudes in this part of Peru, at
1,000m lower than Cusco.
Day 3 BLD Today you tour the fertile highlands around
the Sacred Valley where the Incas carved impressive
agricultural terraces into the steep mountain slopes.
You visit the ancient fortress of Ollantaytambo with its
temples, observatories, grain stores and stone-walled
terraces., and the Incan ruins at Pisac, where an artisans
market is held on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays.
Day 4 BL Early this morning you board the train for a ride
through the Sacred Valley to the small town of Aguas
Calientes. From here you travel by bus up to Machu
Picchu, the Lost City of the Incas, perched on a mountain top (2,400m, 8,200ft). This fascinating site built
by Inca Pachacutec in the 15th century was hidden
by mountains and semi-tropical jungles for 400 years
until discovered by Hiram Bingham of Yale University
in 1911. Some archaeologists believe that the Inca’s
‘Virgins of the Sun’ took refuge from the Spanish conquistadors here.
Mini Inca Trail By disembarking from the train early, you
can walk the final section of the Inca Trail to approach
Machu Picchu from above, via the Inti Punku Gate of
the Sun. This strenuous walk takes 5-6hrs. You pass the
striking Inca terraces of Wiñaywayna along the way
and arrive at Machu Picchu just in time to catch the
last bus down to Aguas Calientes. This must be booked
well in advance as the number of hikers using the trail
is strictly limited.
Day 5 BL Return to explore the ruins of Machu Picchu in
the morning (before the site gets busy). In the afternoon, take the train all the way to Cusco, the imperial
capital of the Inca Empire, where you stay for 2 nights
in a central 3* hotel.
Day 6 BL Discover Cusco (3,250m, 11,600ft) this morning
on a city tour. You’ll see a blend of Spanish colonial
architecture over Inca foundations, and learn about Incan society and the remarkable story of its downfall. In
the afternoon visit the nearby ruins of Tambomachay,
Kenko amphitheatre, Puca-pucara (the Red Fortress)
and the mighty Sacsayhuaman Fortress where the
festival of the sun Inti Raymi is held annually at the
June solstice.
Day 7 B Morning flight to Lima, for a city tour including a
visit to the Gold Museum, before catching an evening
flight back to the UK.
GEODYSSEY
|
ECUADOR
Venezuela has great beaches with reliable sun.
For these add-ons you will require an ‘open jaw’
international flight ticket out to Ecuador and
back from Caracas (eg with Iberia or Lufthansa),
and a one way ticket from Ecuador to Caracas
(eg with Santa Barbara or Avianca)
Los Roques archipelago
4 days / 3 nights Starts and ends at Caracas airport
Los Roques is a coral archipelago in the Caribbean, a
30 minute flight north of Caracas. It is seriously beautiful. The waters around the islands are a clear deep
turquoise and the beaches are dazzlingly white, with
soft sands. You stay in small guest houses, all of which
are on the main island of Gran Roque, these are neat,
cheerfully painted, clean and comfortable. Rooms have
fans and private bathrooms. (There are no hotels in this
marine national park.) If there is a drawback it is that
the sun on Los Roques is very strong; once out on the
beach there is no natural shade.
Day 1 D Arrive in Caracas on a morning flight from Quito
or Guayaquil. You will be met on arrival and helped to
catch an onwards afternoon flight to Los Roques where
you will be shown to your guesthouse for a 3 night stay
full board at Posada La Cigala.
Day 2 BLD You will be ferried by small boat to one of the
nearby coral islands with a sun umbrella, deck chairs
and cool box of refreshments for a day of relaxation on
a pristine beach—swimming, sunbathing and optional
snorkelling. In the mid afternoon the boat will return
to take you back to Gran Roque. (If you dive, we can
arrange for you to join a dive boat for 2 immersions
today as an optional extra.)
Day 3 BLD Second full day of relaxation on Los Roques,
as Day 2.
Day 4 B Morning flight back to Caracas in plenty of time
for international flights home overnight.
If you fly to Ecuador with KLM you may be able
to break your journey in either direction with
a beach stay in the Caribbean on Bonaire, one
of the Dutch Antilles. Bonaire is an arid island,
where the sun shines virtually 365 days a year.
The easterly trade winds help to maintain a comfortable temperature.
The first three hotels below are set on the island’s small
selection of white sand beaches. Elsewhere the coast
is fringed with coral reefs that teem with colourful
underwater life and make Bonaire a world class diving
destination. Many dive sites are easily accessible from
the shore and several are also excellent for snorkelling.
Harbour Village
This is the most luxurious hotel on the island, set within an exclusive private residential enclave with private
marina. It blends old island charm with casual beach
elegance. All rooms have a/c, ceiling fan, cable TV, hair
dryer, safe, and mini fridge. Hotel facilities include diving, sunfish sailing, kayaking, tennis, fitness centre, and
spa treatments—all at extra cost.
Plaza Resort Bonaire
This luxury property comprises 200 ocean or lagoon
side suites and one and two bedroom villas in 12 acres
of landscaped grounds. All rooms are air-conditioned
with mini-fridge, coffee maker, cable TV, large bathroom, hair dryer and a private patio or balcony. The
hotel offers a choice of three restaurants and bars, a
large swimming pool, tennis courts, casino, private
marina, gym, a small spa and is home to a 5* PADI Gold
Palm dive centre. It is just ½ mile from the airport and 2
miles from downtown Kralendijk.
KonTiki’s Mangrove View, Lac Bay
A handful of one bedroom apartments painted in
sunset-colours and situated on the white sands of Lac
Bay—a natural lagoon of clear, shallow, warm water
protected by a barrier reef and surrounded by a nature
reserve of mangrove. Every apartment has a bedroom
with queen sized bed and a/c, living area with kitchen,
bathroom with shower, and a terrace with a view to Lac
Bay. Windsurfing centres are just three minutes away
round the headland at Sorobon.
The restaurant serves reasonably priced international
food, fresh fruit shakes and tropical cocktails. You can
eat inside, or outside to gaze at the stars or enjoy the
beautiful colours of the bay. Exhibitions from local artists are held all year round and the first Sunday of each
month is jazz night.
Margarita Caracol, Venezuela
Machu Picchu, Peru
Sacred Valley,
Machu Picchu and Cusco
Bonaire
Harbour Village beach, Bonaire
Venezuela
Los Roques, Venezuela
Peru
Margarita Island
Captain Don’s Habitat
5 days / 4 nights Starts and ends at Caracas airport
Relax for a suggested 4 nights at Margarita Caracol, a
stylish ‘barefoot elegance’ small hotel tucked away in
the quiet northern part of the island. Very pleasant air
conditioned rooms, with split-level living and bedroom
areas. Lovely small pool and gardens. Playa Caribe
beach—a long, broad stretch of soft coral sand—is a 7
minute walk away, and has a selection of local beach
bars and cafés for lunch.
This is a friendly hotel for divers with freshwater pool,
dock, divers-only pier for shore diving, swimming and
snorkelling and a full service 5* PADI dive operation.
They have a range of room types plus a bar and restaurant, with a number of other restaurants in walking
distance.
31
Other destinations we offer ...
Call us for brochures or visit our website at www.geodyssey.co.uk
Venezuela
Few countries offer travellers so much to discover and explore as Venezuela.
Venezuela is partly a Caribbean country, with a thousand mile coastline
of fishing villages and beaches, and seventy-two islands and coral islands.
It is also a country of the Andes, with dramatic snow-capped peaks, mirrorsmooth lakes, high páramos and pretty hamlets. It is a rainforest nation, with
vast areas of tropical rainforest which are the inheritance of tribal peoples.
It is an ancient landscape too: the majestic table mountains or tepuis that
characterise the superb scenery of the ‘Lost World’ Gran Sabana region are
formed from some of the oldest rock in the world, and their summits have
been isolated for four million years. From one tepui Angel Falls pours down
a huge rock face in one of the most spectacular sights on the continent.
On grasslands north of the Orinoco, cowboys ranch cattle on horseback
and cultivate a machismo that puts Hollywood to shame. In the slow
landscape of the Orinoco Delta, where intersecting rivers and creeks seep
through palm forest and mangrove, children paddle canoes before they can
walk.
Most of the animals we think of as typical of South America are found in
Venezuela: from armadillos and anteaters to capybaras, piranhas, jaguar,
tapir and anacondas. It is one of the best countries for birdwatchers, with
over 1,300 species recorded.
Costa Rica & Nicaragua
With plentiful wildlife, impressive scenery, dramatic volcanoes and lovely
beaches, Costa Rica’s attractions are well recognised. For its size, it is by far
the most visited country in Latin America. Costa Rica is incredibly rich in
biodiversity, with over 5% of all the species on Earth to be found in an area a
fifth the size of the UK. Costa Rica’s most precious natural resources are protected in wildlife reserves and national parks covering 25% of the country.
Getting to see Costa Rica’s wildlife has been made easy with numerous
park trails, elevated walkways in the forest canopy, river boat trips, plus
scores of butterfly farms, frog farms and serpentariums. There are special
opportunities for birdwatching.
For great beaches travel either to Costa Rica’s Pacific coast, where the
choice of hotel ranges from the simple to the ultra-stylish, or to the Africaninfluenced Caribbean coast in the south east. Adrenalin is also available in
plenty, with zip-lines high through the forest, surfing on Pacific rollers, whitewater rafting, trekking, and riding all easy to find.
Costa Rica is peaceful and well organised (it is often called the Switzerland of Latin America). It has no army, education and health standards are
relatively high, and English is widely spoken. Distances are short, there are
many small hotels and guesthouses, and a warm welcome everywhere.
Trinidad & Tobago
This twin island republic is among the richest in wildlife in the Caribbean,
with a great variety of habitats crammed into their small areas, including
montane rainforests, freshwater wetlands, mangrove swamps and coral
reefs.
Trinidad attracts visitors interested in wildlife, birdwatching, walking and the island’s rich cultural mix. Trinidadians descend from many
origins, from Carib Indians, African slaves, colonial powers, Indian and
Chinese indentured labourers and Arab settlers. This diversity finds expression in the music, the food and the very popular Carnival (five days
before Ash Wednesday).
Tobago is much smaller than Trinidad and most visitors are attracted by
its good beaches and great drift diving. It is mostly a verdant landscape
of winding coastal roads that skirt craggy headlands and bays, unspoilt
natural beaches, tiny hamlets and exuberant tropical vegetation. Life on
Tobago is sleepy and quiet. Most locals make at least part of their living
from farming or fishing.
GEODYSSEY
Tel: 020 7281 7788
Fax: 020 7281 7878
www.geodyssey.co.uk
enquiries@geodyssey.co.uk
116 Tollington Park, London N4 3RB

Ecuador - Geodyssey

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