Grosse Gewächse - 2008 whites and 2007 reds

Grosse Gewächse - 2008 whites and 2007 reds

Grosse Gewächse - 2008 whites and 2007 reds
15 Oct 2009 by Michael Schmidt
Grosse Gewächse may be translated as 'great growths' or 'grand crus'. They are part of a complicated classification system devised by the association of German premium
wine growers (Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter or VDP), a compromise solution that most wine critics cannot warm to. It is meant to be a combination of the Burgundy
and Bordeaux classifications but has been compromised by a need to include different regions' diverging interests. The VDP's classification model explains that a Grosses
Gewächs is also an Erste Lage, which is confusing in translation as it suggests that a grand cru is also a premier cru. However, all we need to know is that the term Grosses
Gewächs (called Erstes Gewächs in the Rheingau) is meant to describe (relatively) dry wines from what the VDP perceives to be the best sites for this type of wine. Stringent
requirements have been laid down to assure that high standards are adhered to. Strictly speaking, the VDP is a club, and a club does not have to consider opinions from
outsiders about its statutory manifestations but it does invite them to judge the club's practical performance.
For the most recent vintage released, 2008, we can be quite happy with the results. There are always complaints from the critics about too many wines being awarded the
coveted grand cru status but fortunately 2008 turned out to be more favourable for the white great growths than had at first been expected. In most cases there was a higher
level of acidity than in 2007, bringing back freshness and elegance. Producers with a preference for the 'full bodied is beautiful' style found conditions a little more difficult and
sometimes it showed, when the occasional over- employment of malo resulted in a bit of flab. On the red front, 2007 was a great year for Spätburgunder, which is reflected in
my marks. Maybe some people will accuse me of partisan patriotism but it's the simple truth: German Pinot Noir at its best is world class.
As for dry Riesling, the best its doubters can throw at it is: but can it age? The answer to that may be found in my recent account of A decade of top dry German Rieslings and
Jancis's Do dry German wines last? published last April. Deutsche Grosse Gewächse - stop thinking, start drinking!
The wines are listed alphabetically by producer (sur)name and, for each producer, by grape variety in this order: Riesling, Silvaner, Grauburgunder, Spätburgunder.
ACHAM- MAGIN, Pfalz
Acham- Magin, Forster Kirchenstück Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Pfalz 16.5 Drink 2010-15
Slightly tropical notes, touch of pineapple and grapefruit; quite salty- minerally with generous acidity, medium body, not great but very well balanced. (MS)
Acham- Magin, Forster Pechstein Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Pfalz 17 Drink 2010-15,
In addition to fermentation banana aroma also some fresh mandarin fruit complemented by a touch of aniseed; refreshing acidity, slightly dusty- minerally edge; very attractive
already. (MS)
Acham- Magin, Ruppertsberger Reiterpfad Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Pfalz 16 Drink 2010-15
Fresh appley nose; pears marinated with cinnamon, slightly dusty edge, lighter style, uncomplicated. (MS)
J J ADENEUER, Ahr
J J Adeneuer, Ahrweiler Rosenthal Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs 2007 Ahr 17.5 Drink 2010-17
Smoky bacon, white pepper and cherries; generous fruit, plums and cherries; very powerful, massive substance, playing the power card; fine toasted notes of smoky bacon
linger and linger. (MS)
J J Adeneuer, Walporzheimer Gärkammer Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs 2007 Ahr 18 Drink 2010-17
Toasted, spicy, touch of cigarbox, variations of oak maturation, but also some cherry aromas; spices and generous fruit embedded in a firm tannic structure, good substance
and length with that unique slatey minerality. (MS)
GERHARD ALDINGER, Württemberg
Gerhard Aldinger, Fellbacher Lämmler Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Württemberg 17 Drink 2010-15
Some intense fruit, almost cassis; a big mouthful of very ripe fruit, satsuma, mandarin, sweet grapefruit, with the merest hint of minerality; a nicely structured and well balanced
wine, quite generous and juicy. (MS)
Gerhard Aldinger, Untertürkheimer Gips Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs 2007 Württemberg 17.5 Drink 2010-17
Medium intensity, cherry hue, light pink rim; spicy and peppery (white) with a fine cedary note; Generous mulberry and plum flavour merges with firm tannic component and a
touch of spice into a complex, supple and long finish. (MS)
BALTHASAR RESS, Rheingau
Balthasar Ress, Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland Riesling Erstes Gewächs 2008 Rheingau 15 Drink 2010-15
Green fruit aromas; despite apple and pear flavours the acidity has gone missing and the wines is almost fat and lacking definition. (MS)
Balthasar Ress, Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling Erstes Gewächs 2008 Rheingau 16 Drink 2010-15
Grapefruit and just a hint of honey; a minerally tang gives the necessary edge and a tactile finish, maybe just a little lightweight. (MS)
BARTH, Rheingau
Barth, Hattenheimer Hassel Riesling Erstes Gewächs 2008 15 Drink 2010-13
Melon and apple on the nose; concise and correct, but fairly simply knit. (MS)
BASSERMANN- JORDAN, Pfalz
Bassermann- Jordan, Forster Pechstein Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Pfalz 17.5 Drink 2010-17
Minerally and spicy with just a touch of nutmeg; though still youthful there is some complexity that promises further development; the acidity of the vintage brings a harmony
that I missed in 2007. (MS)
Bassermann- Jordan, Forster Jesuitengarten Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Pfalz 17.5 Drink 2010-17
A hint of flint and a touch of quinine, some banana fermentation aroma but also notes of pear and stone fruit; substantial mineral content, full bodied but still quite closed, finish
indicates potential. (MS)
Bassermann- Jordan, Forster Kirchenstück Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Pfalz 16.5 Drink 2010-17
Quite delicate nose; some yellow fruit notes, mainly grapefruit, pronounced salty- minerally flavour, maybe not overly complex, medium length. (MS)
Bassermann- Jordan, Deidesheimer Hohenmorgen Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Pfalz 17 Drink 2010-17
Generous fruit aromas with pronounced herbal background, aniseed, fair complexity, acidity is well integrated; good length too. (MS)
BASTIAN, Mittelrhein
Bastian, Bacharacher Wolfshöhle Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Mittelrhein 14 Drink 2010-?
Scent of glue, volatile; fermenting pineapple and glue on the palate; can it make a miraculous recovery? (MS)
BATTENFELD- SPANIER, Rheinhessen
Battenfeld- Spanier, Nieder- Flörsheimer Frauenberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Rheinhessen 18 Drink 2012-21
I had a massive problem with the 2007 because of its spontaneous fermentation aromas. Battenfeld- Spanier has not changed his winemaking for the 2008 vintage, and rightly
so. This is about judging potential, and once you get through the medicinal, vegetal, camphor notes of the spontaneous fermentation, it cannot be denied that there is a
massive concentration of fruit and minerality lurking underneath that raw, sulphurous scent. Anybody who thinks wine tasting is a doddle should try this. Klaus Peter Keller,
who also works with spontaneous fermentation, does not like to show his wines at this stage and he knows why. I am sure this will become a great, but will need much more
time. There is great potential underneath all that adversity. (MS)
Battenfeld- Spanier, Hohen- Sülzener Kirchenstück Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Rheinhessen 17.5 Drink 2011-19
Still has that camphor and sorrel greenness of spontaneous fermentation, but not quite as pronounced as on the Frauenberg. There is a hint of rich, almost exotic fruit,
Mandarin Napoleon, also a serious dose of minerality. Very powerful, expansive, great concentration, very long. (MS)
Still has that camphor and sorrel greenness of spontaneous fermentation, but not quite as pronounced as on the Frauenberg. There is a hint of rich, almost exotic fruit,
Mandarin Napoleon, also a serious dose of minerality. Very powerful, expansive, great concentration, very long. (MS)
FRIEDRICH BECKER, Pfalz
Friedrich Becker, Schweigener Sonnenberg Sankt Paul Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs 2007 Pfalz 18 Drink 2010-19
Medium strawberry red with pale pinkish rim; mulberries and bonfire smoke; great exhibition of fruit before the smoky toasted tangent takes us into a long and seductive finish;
I have a feeling that the power is being toned down in favour of complexity. (MS)
Friedrich Becker, Schweigener Sonnenberg Kammerberg Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs 2007 Pfalz 18.5 Drink 2010-19
Pale/ medium cherry red with strawberry hue on rim; smoky, but mainly spicy with an intriguing fragrance of nutmeg and cinnamon; on the palate starts off silky and soft with
cherry and raspberry fruit complemented by well defined acidity, than taking on smoky and toasted sandalwood aromas; great length, elegant but firm with it. (MS)
BERCHER, Baden
Bercher, Burkheimer Schlossgarten Grauburgunder Grosses Gewächs 2008 Baden 16 Drink 2010-15
Quite mute on the nose; generous fruit on the palate; succulent pear, finishing with a tactile minerally edge. (MS)
Bercher, Burkheimer Feuerberg Grauburgunder Grosses Gewächs 2008 Baden
17.5 Drink 2010-15
Vineyard peach and barrel- fermentation aromas dominate the nose, but on the palate there is an overwhelming wealth of juicy fruit from melon to the more tropical, also oak
flavours without tannin, apricot finish; great potential. (MS)
Bercher, Burkheimer Feuerberg Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs 2007 Baden 18 Drink 2012-19
Medium depth, brick red, pinkish meniscus; prominent smoky bacon aromas indicate fair bit of toasting, but underneath the present top layer of wood there is a wealth of fruit,
mulberries and plums waiting to emerge from the grip of tannin; powerful and with long term potential. (MS)
BERGDOLT- ST LAMPRECHT, Pfalz
Bergdolt- St Lamprecht, Ruppertsberger Reiterpfad Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Pfalz 16 Drink 2010-15
Greenish scent of camphor and sorrel, probably spontaneous fermentation aromas lingering; on the palate juicy grapefruit with sound acidity, quite full bodied and with
substance. (MS)
Bergdolt- St Lamprecht, Duttweiler Kalkberg Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs 2007 Pfalz 16 Drink 2010-15
Pale to medium cherry red, ruby rim; very delicate notions of cherries, plums and cigarbox; refined rather than exuberant, quite elegant if not a little lightweight; tactile tannic
finish. (MS)
BERNHART, Pfalz
Bernhart, Schweigener Sonnenberg Rädling Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs 2007 Pfalz 18 Drink 2010-19
Deep cherry red with ruby/ purplish rim; warm notes of cedar, cherries, spices and plums; some serious toasting and firm tannins make up a strong grip and firm structure that
envelope a wealth of fruit; my crystal ball says that power of youth will turn into elegance of maturity. (MS)
BICKEL- STUMPF, Franken
Bickel- Stumpf, Frickenhäuser Kapellenberg Mönchshof Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Franken 17 Drink 2010-17
Intriguing scent of pronounced aniseed, almost liquorice; very juicy, succulent and subtle on the palate with a mineral afterthought; very attractive, maybe not instantly
recognisable as Riesling. (MS)
Bickel- Stumpf, Frickenhäuser Kapellenhof Mönchshof Silvaner Grosses Gewächs 2008 Franken 16 Drink 2010-15
Delicate nose of herbs and some tropical fruit; sweet grapefruit with juicy acidity, uncomplicated and generous. . (MS)
JOSEF BIFFAR, Pfalz
Josef Biffar, Deidesheimer Grainhübel Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Pfalz 16 Drink 2010-15
A little green apple and pear on the nose; fairly straightforward with well balanced acidity, but just a tad on the sweeter side of the GG scale. (MS)
Josef Biffar, Deidesheimer Kieselberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Pfalz 16 Drink 2010-15
Nice touch of spice, light fruit, just a little bit on the sweet side of trocken; finishes on a sound mineral note. (MS)
BRŰDER DR BECKER, Rheinhessen
Brüder Dr Becker, Dienheimer Tafelstein Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Rheinhessen 15.5 Drink 2010-13
Some yellow fruit, but also a hint of volatility; fresh appley notes on the palate, touch of grapefruit, a little spice; fresh, pleasant, but not deep; easy appeal. (MS)
Brüder Dr Becker, Dienheimer Falkenberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Rheinhessen 15.5 Drink 2010-13
Faint appley fragrance, but also a slightly volatile nose; fresh appley style, merest notion of minerals, fun rather than great. (MS)
BŰRGERSPITAL, Franken
Bürgerspital, Würzburger Stein 'Hagemann' Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Franken 17 Drink 2010-17
Restrained nose, but on the palate lovely herbal aromas balanced by a concise and gripping acidity; very racy style; good length. (MS)
Bürgerspital, Würzburger Stein- Harfe Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Franken 17.5 Drink 2010-17
Wet stone and flint associations; on the palate almost dusty, with a very minerally expression and razor- sharp acidity; very taut and not for lovers of the voluptuous style; crisp
and racy, as clean as a whistle. (MS)
Bürgerspital, Würzburger Stein Silvaner Grosses Gewächs 2008 Franken 17.5 Drink 2010-15
Intriguing nose of herbs, honey and flint smoke; earthy, herbal and dusty on the palate; taut, complex and with great structure and length. (MS)
DR BŰRKLIN- WOLF, Pfalz
Dr Bürklin- Wolf, Deidesheimer Kalkofen Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Pfalz 16.5 Drink 2010-17
Aromas of yellow fruit and herbs, fennel and caraway, good balance of fruit and minerality, lingering finish. (MS)
Dr Bürklin- Wolf, Forster Pechstein Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Pfalz 17.5 Drink 2010-18
I was not bowled over by the 2007, maybe even a little harsh in my judgement, but somehow 2008 seems to have suited some growers in the Pfalz better. The nose is sweet
with the merest whiff of butterscotch, exuberant fruit on the palate is really well balanced by a firm backbone of acidity, shows good length too with a mineral edge. (MS)
Dr Bürklin- Wolf, Forster Kirchenstück Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Pfalz 17 Drink 2010-17
Intriguing herbal scent, on the palate well rounded with firm mineral expression and a return of the herbs. Clear definition through sound acidity. (MS)
Dr Bürklin- Wolf, Forster Jesuitengarten Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Pfalz 16.5 Drink 2010-17
Not very forthcoming on the nose, but on the palate this impresses with a strong mineral dimension that gives the wine a firm grip on a long finish, promising for the longer
term. (MS)
CLEMENS BUSCH, Mosel
Clemens Busch, Pündericher Marienburg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Mosel 17.5 Drink 2010-19
Fresh and flinty, well- defined green fruit, hint of spice; clean as a whistle, undeniable racy Mosel acidity, grapefruit with a dusting of spice, finishing off with well measured
dose of minerality; long finish. (MS)
Fresh and flinty, well- defined green fruit, hint of spice; clean as a whistle, undeniable racy Mosel acidity, grapefruit with a dusting of spice, finishing off with well measured
dose of minerality; long finish. (MS)
Clemens Busch, Pündericher Marienburg 'Rothenpfad' Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Mosel 18 Drink 2010-19
Green and yellow fruit with a slaty tang; lime with a sprinkling of salt, grapefruit, dusted with a smidgeon of spices, lovely texture; appley finish and excellent length. (MS)
A CHRISTMANN, Pfalz
A Christmann, Deidesheimer Langenmorgen Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Pfalz 16 Drink 2010-15
A little earthy, a traditional Pfalz Riesling characteristic, quite vegetal and herbal, even a hint of quinine, looks (and smells) as if still under the influence of some spontaneous
fermentation. (MS)
A Christmann, Ruppertsberger Reiterpfad Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Pfalz 16.5 Drink 2010-15
A little herbaceous at this stage, possibly spontaneous fermentation aromas; quite full bodied but with just the right amount of acidity; good length promises potential. (MS)
A Christmann, Königsbacher Idig Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Pfalz 16.5 Drink 2010-17
Nose quite reductive; mouthwatering acidity works well with juicy fruit, quite racy in style, full- bodied enough, but appears to lack a little in terms of complexity. (MS)
A Christmann, Gimmeldinger Mandelgarten Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Pfalz 16.5 Drink 2010-15
Peach and pear, quite juicy, firmed up with a little peel flavour, generous, subtle, but not overly complex. (MS)
ERNST DAUTEL, Württemberg
Ernst Dautel, Bönnigheimer Sonnenberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Württemberg 16 Drink 2010-15
Citric aromas mingle with apple and pear; on the palate very citric with tingling acidity; just a tad one- dimensional. (MS)
DEUTZERHOF, Ahr
Deutzerhof, Altenahrer Eck Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs 2007 Ahr 18 Drink 2010-17
Medium cherry, showing some brick; toasted, spicy and slaty on the nose; there can be no doubt about the fruit, but there is also a herbal quality; Eck terroir clearly defined by
the dusty minerality and superb structure, sound tannins provide backbone for the longer term. (MS)
Deutzerhof, Mayschosser Mönchberg Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs 2007 Ahr 18.5 Drink 2010-19
Cherry hue with some brickish shades; rosehip hedgerows, gunflint smoke and toasty aromas on the nose, things get even better with an exquisite combination of fruit and
spices lifted by an extra layer of minerality; firm and generous at the same time, finishing long and looking good. (MS)
DIEFENHARDT'SCHES, Rheingau
Diefenhardt'sches, Martinsthaler Langenberg Riesling Erstes Gewächs 2008 Rheingau 16 Drink 2010-15
Yellow fruit and ambrosia rice pudding; delicate grapefruit flavour with mouthwatering acidity, lively and racy; just a little lean on the finish. (MS)
Diefenhardt'sches, Martinsthaler Wildsau Spätburgunder Erstes Gewächs 2007 Rheingau 17 Drink 2010-17
Pale to medium ruby with raspberry- red rim; quite spirity with attractive light spicy notes; begins with a soft fruit dimension and finishes with a pronounced cedary aroma; firm
astringent backbone. (MS)
DOMDECHANT WERNER'SCHES, Rheingau
Domdechant Werner'sches, Hochheimer Domdechaney Riesling Erstes Gewächs 2008, Rheingau 14 Drink 2010-12
Pear drops on the nose, apple on the palate, some acidity, but otherwise very simple, not 'Gross'. (MS)
Domdechant Werner'sches, Hochheimer Kirchenstück Riesling Erstes Gewächs 2008, Rheingau 14 Drink 2010-12
Pear drops on the nose, pear drops on the palate, lacking definition and direction, what happens when the fermentation aromas are gone? (MS)
DŐNNHOFF, Nahe
Dönnhoff, Norheimer Dellchen Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Nahe 18 Drink 2012-21
Cream cheese and herbaceous notes, dominance of fermentation aromas at this stage; fruit has not unfolded yet, but there is a great compactness and concentration; the style
is filigree, not exotic, structure and length bear great promise. Will take another couple of years to unfold. (MS)
Dönnhoff, Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Nahe 18.5 Drink 2012-21
Some citrus fruit already breaking through the more herbaceous fermentation aromas. Very taut, but also very pure, refined yellow fruit and a generous minerality define the
composition of this wine. Though 2008 contributes plenty of acidity, it never grates. What to drink this wine with? A little Johann Sebastian Bach would be my choice. (MS)
JÜRGEN ELLWANGER, Württemberg
Jürgen Ellwanger, Schnaiter Altenberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Württemberg 16.5 Drink 2010-15
Generous lashings of apple and pear nicely balanced by a distinctive mineral component and mouth- watering acidity; very credible even if not the most complex. (MS)
Jürgen Ellwanger, Hebsacker Lichtenberg Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs 2007 Württemberg 17 Drink 2010-17
Medium intensity, raspberry red, watery pink rim; nose- tickling nutmeg and a hint of cigarbox; nutmeg and white pepper sprinkled on plums and served on a layer of tannin
and cedar, quite tough right now but with potential to mellow. (MS)
EMRICH- SCHŐNLEBER, Nahe
Emrich- Schönleber, Monzinger Frühlingsplätzchen Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Nahe 18.5 Drink 2010-21
Slightly herbaceous but with minerally notes coming to the fore; the fruit of the 2008 is not as exuberant as the 2007, acidity and minerality play bigger parts, with the emphasis
on racy elegance rather than creamy opulence; nevertheless harmonious and complex as ever. (MS)
Emrich- Schönleber, Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Nahe 19 Drink 2010-21
Delicate nose of yellow fruit and ripe pear with some smoky notes; juicy and generous, yellow stone fruit, pebble- sucking minerality, very rich texture; firm structure, tactile
edge, but great harmony and depth. Though I would not call it an early developer, this wine is a little more approachable than some of its rivals currently dominated by
spontaneous fermentation aromas and what it reveals is sheer class. This is consistently one of the best GGs and the 2007 fetched 92 and 94 marks respectively from the two
leading German wine guides, though in this year's Decanter awards it managed only a bronze medal. Maybe the panel was a little like the Grolsch: not ready yet! (MS)
AUGUST ESER, Rheingau
August Eser, Erbacher Siegelsberg Riesling Erstes Gewächs 2008 Rheingau 15.5 Drink 2010-15
Green melon aromas on the nose; almost underripe fruit, sharp acidity; has good length but comes across as a little raw. (MS)
FRIEDRICH FENDEL, Rheingau
Friedrich Fendel, Rüdesheimer Berg Roseneck Riesling Erstes Gewächs 2008 Rheingau 15.5 Drink 2010-13
Quite mute on the nose, opens up a little on the palate with fresh green fruit framed by a lively acidity, not very long. (MS)
Friedrich Fendel, Rüdesheimer Klosterlay Riesling Erstes Gewächs 2008 Rheingau 15.5 Drink 2010-13
Restrained citric fruit; very sweet grapefruit on the palate, clean and fresh, but fairly one- dimensional with a slighly tactile finish. (MS)
FITZ- RITTER, Pfalz
FITZ- RITTER, Pfalz
Fitz- Ritter, Dürkheimer Michelsberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Pfalz 15 Drink 2010-15
Pear and apple aromas; on the palate quite spirity and hot, more fruit peel than flesh; lacking dimension, fair quality, but Grosses Gewächs? (MS)
Fitz- Ritter, Ungsteiner Herrenberg Kanzel Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Pfalz 15.5 Drink 2010-15
Delicate green fruit fragrance; quite spirity with notes of pith and peel, lacking in substance a little; to be fair, some colleagues found more in it than I did. (MS)
JOACHIM FLICK, Rheingau
Joachim Flick, Wickerer Mönchsgewann Riesling Erstes Gewächs 2008 Rheingau 15 Drink 2010-13
Pear drops; initial fruit attraction tails off quite quickly, quite flat, no great length, correct. (MS)
Joachim Flick, Wickerer Nonnberg Riesling Erstes Gewächs 2008 Rheingau 15.5 Drink 2010-13
Touch of exotic fermenting fruit; kicks off with some attractive tropical fruit, but then lacks further development. (MS)
FREIHERR HEYL ZU HERRNSHEIM, Rheinhessen
Freiherr Heyl zu Herrnsheim, Niersteiner Brudersberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Rheinhessen 16 Drink 2009-14
Flowery, lily of the valley scent; suck- a- pebble minerality, flinty, dusty, quite tactile, but with some yellow fruit too. (MS)
FREIHERR VON UND ZU FRANCKENSTEIN, Baden
Freiherr von und zu Franckenstein, Zell- Weierbacher Neugesetz Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Baden 14.5 Drink 2010-13
Very faint pineappley nose; quite sweet with an uneasy acidity, a little thin and short. (MS)
Freiherr von und zu Franckenstein, Zell- Weierbacher Abtsberg Grauburgunder Grosses Gewächs 2008 Baden 15.5 Drink 2010-13
A delicate honeyed note leads to some juicy fruit without oak, but it's a little flabby and lacks expression. (MS)
Freiherr von und zu Franckenstein, Zell- Weierbacher Neugesetz Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs 2007 Baden 16 Drink 2010-15
Medium cherry to brick red, pink rim; lots of cigarbox and toast; a little soapy on the palate, but quite well adjusted acidity provides the edge, maybed a little up front without too
much subtlety, though pleasant raspberry flavour rounds off the taste nicely. (MS)
FŰRST LŐWENSTEIN, Franken
Fürst Löwenstein, Homburger Kallmuth Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Franken 16.5 Drink 2010-17
Attractive herbal scent; fresh, crisp and clean, subtle and with well- defined acidity; maybe not quite enough depth to take it to the very top. (MS)
Fürst Löwenstein, Homburger Kallmuth Silvaner Grosses Gewächs 2008 Franken 18 Drink 2010-15
Prominent herbal notes on the nose are well supported by greengage and stone fruit flavours on the palate; tactile dusty minerality and well- defined acidity complete the setup and like Magnus Magnusson, the wine finishes where it started: with herbal notes; another Silvaner Classic.
RUDOLF FŰRST, Franken
Rudolf Fürst, Bürgstadter Centgrafenberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Franken
18 Drink 2010-19
Pronounced herbal character; very compact and concentrated with an almost gritty dustiness, has that clean earthy Franken style signature, not overpowering, yet steely, very
stylish. (MS)
Rudolf Fürst, Bürgstadter Centgrafenberg Spätburgunder R Grosses Gewächs 2007 Franken 18 Drink 2012-19
Medium depth, raspberry red with pink rim; smoky, spicy, with fresh cherry aromas; very firm tannins envelop an abundance of fruit and spices; great structure and backbone,
multi- dimensional but still an infant; exceptional potential. (MS)
Rudolf Fürst, Hunsrück Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs 2007 Franken 19+ Drink 2012-22
Medium depth raspberry red with pink rim; inferno of cherries, plums, smoky bacon and white pepper; begins with a gentle introduction of fruit immersed in cognac and spices
before firm tannins bring up the rear; oak toasted to perfection, a masterpiece of complexity, concentration and structure, Spätburgunder as an art form. (MS)
FŰRSTLICH CASTELL'SCHES DOMÄNEAMT, Franken
Fürstlich Castell'sches Domäneamt, Casteller Schlossberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Franken 15.5 Drink 2010-15
Pineapple and aniseed aromas on both nose and palate; full- bodied, unfortunately bordering onto the flabby; ends on a sour note. (MS)
Fürstlich Castell'sches Domäneamt, Casteller Schlossberg Silvaner Grosses Gewächs 2008 Franken 16 Drink 2010-13
Some mineral and herb content, but a little lightweight. (MS)
GEORG MŰLLER STIFTUNG, Rheingau
Georg Müller Stiftung, Hattenheimer Wisselbrunnen Riesling Erstes Gewächs 2008 Rheingau 16 Drink 2010-13
Fresh green fruit notes; crisp and fresh with a spicy note, vibrant. (MS)
Georg Müller Stiftung, Hattenheimer Engelmannsberg Spätburgunder Erstes Gewächs 2007 Rheingau 16.5 Drink 2010-15
Medium depth, cherry hue with purple rim; spices and plum, subtle notes of oak influence; plums and cherries on palate, quite velvety and smooth, approachable, a softer
style, though a presence of tannins cannot be denied. (MS)
GRAF VON KANITZ, Rheingau
Graf von Kanitz, Lorcher Kapellenberg Spätburgunder Erstes Gewächs 2007 16 Drink 2010-15
Pale tinned- strawberry hue with watery rim; very faint on nose, mainly spirity; light cherry and raspberry flavours and understated oak make this a delicate rather than powerful
Spätburgunder. (MS)
GRAFEN NEIPPERG, Württemberg
Grafen Neipperg, Schwaigerner Ruthe Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Württemberg 16.5 Drink 2010-15
Ripe melon aromas with some citrus fruit notes; green but generous fruit, apple and melon, crisp acidity and the merest hint of minerality combine to produce an elegant wine
with fair length. (MS)
K F GROEBE, Rheinhessen
K F Groebe, Westhofener Aulerde Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Rheinhessen16.5 Drink 2010-17
Racy style, razor- sharp searing acidity, very, very crisp, but with an attractive minerally edge, I'm afraid with acidity as uncompromising as that for the Riesling purist only.
(MS)
K F Groebe, Westhofener Kirchspiel Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Rheinhessen 17.5 Drink 2010-17
Attractive composition of flowery and fruity notes; great concentration of flavours, an almost tactile minerality providing a chewy quality; though quite raw at this stage, depth of
flavour and finish indicate that this has real potential. (MS)
GUNDERLOCH, Rheinhessen
GUNDERLOCH, Rheinhessen
Gunderloch, Nackenheimer Rothenberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Rheinhessen 17 Drink 2010-17
Restrained yellow fruit, touch smoky; quite opulent pink grapefruit, notes of aniseed and fennel, stone dust, tactile; intense and long. (MS)
Gunderloch, Niersteiner Pettenthal Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Rheinhessen
16 Drink 2010-15
A little green, camphor, some grapefruit too; grapefruit continues on the palate, but acidity is lacking a little, just a touch flabby, though there is a good minerally finish (MS)
GUTSVERWALTUNG NIEDERHAUSEN- SCHLOSSBŐCKELHEIM, Nahe
Gutsverwaltung Niederhausen- Schlossböckelheim, Niederhäuser Steinberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Nahe 16 Drink 2010-15
Green and yellow fruit, fresh, clean; apple and pear flavours with a little more edge and definition than the 2007; fair finish. (MS)
Gutsverwaltung Niederhausen- Schlossböckelheim, Niederhäuser Kerz Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Nahe 16 Drink 2010-15
Faint nose of exotic fruit; soft and creamy on the palate, quite open, grapefruit notes provide fruit and acidity, well made, approachable style. (MS)
Gutsverwaltung Niederhausen- Schlossböckelheim, Niederhäuser Hermannsberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Nahe 16.5 Drink 2010-15
The old copper mine seems to add an extra touch of flinty minerality; grapefruit, apple and pear flavours are buffered by a tactile minerally edge and an ever so slight bitter
finish. (MS)
GUTZLER, Rheinhessen
Gutzler, Wormser Liebfrauenstift Kirchenstück Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Rheinhessen 17 Drink 2010-15
Attractive but unusual notes of butterscotch and crème brûlée; on the palate the fruit is almost exotic, good concentration of flavour, flinty finish; slightly unusual, but appealing
nevertheless. (MS)
Gutzler, Westhofener Morstein Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs 2007 Rheinhessen 15.5 Drink 2010-14
Medium depth, raspberry hue with pink rim; faint aromas of spice, plum and cedar promise more than a slightly soapy palate can keep; approachable now but lacking structure
for the long term. (MS)
FRITZ HAAG, Mosel
Fritz Haag, Brauneberger Juffer- Sonnenuhr Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Mosel 17 Drink 2010-17
Fresh appley and lemony aromas; delicate fruit and racy acidity are well supported by a well- defined slaty minerality; excellent structure and finish. (MS)
REINHOLD HAART, Mosel
Reinhold Haart, Wintricher Ohligsberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Mosel 16.5 Drink 2011-17
Green spontaneous fermentation firmly present; really bracing fresh acidity and crisp Granny Smith fruit give this a crunchy crispness with a tactile finish; needs time to unfold.
(MS)
Reinhold Haart, Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Mosel 16 Drink 2011-17
Apple and grapefruit peel and pith lead to a slight astringency; this is just a little short of vibrancy to make it a great wine. (MS)
KARL HAIDLE, Württemberg
Karl Haidle, Stettener Pulvermächer Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Württemberg 17 Drink 2010-15
Citric and spicy notes on the nose are followed by almost tropical fruit flavours, with added interest coming from some nice herbal touches, fennel mainly, also some caraway;
juicy marinated pears; sound structure, good length. (MS)
DR HEGER, Baden
Dr Heger, Ihringer Winklerberg Grauburgunder Grosses Gewächs 2007 Baden 17.5 Drink 2010-15
Fox's glacier mints and ripe fruit; fresh melon and pear flavours with just a hint of peel and a little almond to provide some backbone; the 2008 acidity gives it the bite the 2007
was lacking. (MS)
Dr Heger, Achkarrener Schlossberg Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs 2007 Baden 17 Drink 2012-17
Pale to medium raspberry red with pink rim; some cherry, but also a slightly rubbery note; a powerhouse with great substance, spices and fruit masked by pronounced tannins
for now but with enough presence for greater expectations. (MS)
Dr Heger, Ihringer Winklerberg Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs 2007 Baden 17.5 Drink 2010-17
Medium cherry red with pink rim; toasty and smoky on the nose; on the palate cherries, raspberries, plums and spices hold their own against a firm tannic background; sound
structure and good length. (MS)
HESSISCHE STAATSWEINGŰTER KLOSTER EBERBACH, Rheingau
Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach, Hochheimer Domdechaney Riesling Erstes Gewächs 2008 Rheingau 16 Drink 2010-15
Restrained flowery fragrance; pleasant combination of green fruit and acidity and a hint of minerality; well made but without the spark of excitement. (MS)
Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach, Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling Erstes Gewächs 2008 Rheingau 15.5 Drink 2010-13
Delicate fruit, on the palate fruit cocktail, almost a little syrupy, also quite short. (MS)
BERNHART HUBER, Baden
Bernhart Huber, Bombacher Sommerhalde Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs 2007 Baden 18.5 Drink 2012-22
Medium to deep shade of raspberry, purplish rim; cedar, spice and white pepper aromas lead to a mouthwatering concoction of raspberries, plums and cherries furnished with
a solid backbone of toasted oak; spices and pepper are complemented by delicate smoky notes; youthful but already perfectly balanced, destined to mellow into a
demonstration of harmony. (MS)
Bernhart Huber, Hecklinger Schlossberg Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs 2007 Baden 18 Drink 2012-22
Bright cherry red of medium depth with ruby rim; subtle smoky notes mingle with delicate spicy cherry aromas; very juicy fruit subtly enveloped in a cloak of toasted smoky oak;
rather delicate expression on a long finish. (MS)
JOHANNISHOF, Rheingau
Johannishof, Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland Riesling Erstes Gewächs 2008 Rheingau 15 Drink 2010-13
Pear- drop fermentation aromas on nose and palate; fresh enough, but lacking dimension (MS)
TONI JOST, Mittelrhein
Toni Jost, Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Mittelrhein 14.5 Drink 2010-13
A little mute; some green notes and despite acidity just a little flat, does not raise enough interest. (MS)
JULIUSSPITAL WŰRZBURG, Franken
Juliusspital Würzburg, Würzburger Stein Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Franken 17 Drink 2010-17
A hint of pineapple, but also a nice touch of fennel; still has that traditional dusty and flinty Franken appeal, an old classic with a refreshing edge and quite a lasting finish. (MS)
A hint of pineapple, but also a nice touch of fennel; still has that traditional dusty and flinty Franken appeal, an old classic with a refreshing edge and quite a lasting finish. (MS)
Juliusspital Würzburg, Randersacker Pfülben Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Franken 18 Drink 2010-17
Almonds and marzipan; on the palate quite rich and sweet almondy flavours are well balanced by sweet fruit and crisp acidity, lovely wine. (MS)
Juliusspital Würzburg, Würzburger Stein Silvaner Grosses Gewächs 2008 Franken 17.5 Drink 2010-15
Great expression of herbs, meadow flowers and minerals; there is a really minerally flinty tangent and a very tactile and long finish; great expression of that classic earthy
Silvaner style. (MS)
Juliusspital Würzburg, Escherndorfer Lump Silvaner Grosses Gewächs 2008 Franken 18 Drink 2010-15
Herbal aromas of fennel and aniseed mingle with fruit notes of ripe pear and mandarin; this theme is continued on the palate and supported by a solid structure with rasping
flinty edge, a little citric fruit creeping in on the finish; textbook Silvaner. (MS)
Juliusspital Würzburg, Iphöfer Julius- Echterberg Silvaner Grosses Gewächs 2008 Franken 17 Drink 2010-15
Just a little pear droppy at this stage; on the sweeter side of trocken, but with a good herbal and mineral kick; sound structure and good length. (MS)
JAKOB JUNG, Rheingau
Jakob Jung, Erbacher Hohenrain Riesling Erstes Gewächs 2008 Rheingau 15.5 Drink 2010-13
Pear- drop fermentation; light and crisp with mouthwatering acidity, delicate notes of apple and grapefruit; pleasant but not very long. (MS)
Jakob Jung, Erbacher Siegelsberg Riesling Erstes Gewächs 2008 Rheingau 15.5 Drink 2010-13
Dominated by pear- drop fermentation aromas; Granny Smith apple flavour, quite one- dimensional, fair bit of body. (MS)
KELLER, Rheinhessen
Keller, Westhofener Morstein Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2007 Rheinhessen 19.5 Drink 2010-21
At first quite closed, then developing an intriguing combination of spicy and flinty aromas; marinated pears with a sprinkling of cinnamon/ nutmeg, complemented by a smoky
minerality; almost a touch earthy in the best possible taste; the finish keeps growing in intensity and is very, very long. How does one describe perfect harmony? (MS)
Keller, Westhofener Kirchspiel Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Rheinhessen 18.5 Drink 2010-21
Spontaneous fermentation aromas give way to an overwhelming array of vineyard peaches, mangos and satsumas; very generous and ripe fruit keeps expanding without
transgressing into overload; finely polished acidity, mineral finish; very long (MS)
Keller, Dalsheimer Hubacker Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Rheinhessen 19 Drink 2010-21
Rather than opulent in its fragrance, this convinces with a more refined combination of spices and yellow fruit; on the palate this exhibits a perfect balance of local and exotic
fruit (ripe apples, juicy pears, grapefruit, oranges), spice (nutmeg) and a mouthwatering acidity; great structure, complexity and length. (MS)
Keller, Westhofener Abtserde Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Rheinhessen 18.5
Drink 2010-21
Nettles, elderflower and fennel make this quite a green affair; on the palate this is definitely an earthier style with some green elements, less opulence and a slightly bitter pith
element on the finish; a different style with more herbaceous tendencies, but before anybody thinks I did not like this, it is the most elegant of the Keller Grosse Gewächse.
(MS)
AUGUST KESSELER, Rheingau
August Kesseler, Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Grosses Gewächs Riesling 2008, Rheingau 18 Drink 2010-19
Pronounced herbal and minerally aromas; great combination of fruit, herbs and minerality; fennel and acidity complement almost exotic fruit without neglecting acidity; compact
with the promise of complexity. (MS)
KNIPSER, Pfalz
Knipser, Dirmsteiner Mandelpfad Himmelsrech Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Pfalz 17.5 Drink 2010-17
Pronounced aromas of yellow fruit, even mandarins, also a hint of nutmeg; ripe apples, mandarins and spices on the palate, minerality on a long finish, where acidity is also
making its well- balanced presence felt. (MS)
Knipser, Laumersheimer Steinbuckel Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Pfalz 18 Drink 2010-17
Exhibits a powerful fragrance, almost perfumed, with spicy and earthy notes to boot; juicy fresh fruit with definite greengage note, generous flavour benefits from acidity with a
firm grip, nicely finished off by a restrained mineral dimension. (MS)
Knipser, Grosskarlbacher Burgweg Im Grossen Garten Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs 2006 Pfalz 18 Drink 2009-17
Medium depth, tinned strawberry with brickish shade on rim; sandalwood, spice, cherries, a hint of rubber; very smooth and velvety with seductive spices; fruit still a little
masked, will emerge; there is a really soft acidity that complements body well; a firm structure promises long- term development potential. (MS)
Knipser, Laumersheimer Kirschgarten Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs 2006 Pfalz 17 Drink 2009-15
Medium intensity, cherry red, brick red rim; cherries in brandy, a touch of vanilla, a hint of cigarbox; cherries and spice on the palate, smooth and velvety, wood tannins well
integrated; tobacco and cedar notes on a lasting finish; quite approachable. (MS)
Knipser, Laumersheimer Kirschgarten Mergelweg Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs 2006 Pfalz 17.5 Drink 2009-15
Medium intensity strawberry red with pink rim; almost a gamey note on top of the spicy cherry fruit; morello cherries on velvety texture, deceptively smooth, tannins well
integrated; cedar and spice linger in a seductive finsih. (MS)
KREUZBERG, Ahr
Kreuzberg, Ahrweiler Silberberg Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs 2007 Ahr 16.5 Drink 2010-15
Quite pale with salmon pink rim; strawberries and a little fermentation- derived rubber; very juicy to begin with, then becomes quite chewy with tannins kicking in, smoky bacon
undertones; quite open. (MS)
Kreuzberg, Bad Neuenahrer Schieferlay Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs 2007 Ahr 16 Drink 2010-15
Medium depth brick red with salmon pink rim; slightly rubbery nose, a vegetal hint, green pepper; juicy and crunchy peppers on the palate, just a tad bitter; quite approachable.
(MS)
KRUGER- RUMPF, Nahe
Kruger- Rumpf, Münsterer Kapellenberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Nahe 16 Drink 2010-17
Delicate spicy touch on the nose; notes of green fruit are well supported by a firm acidity to produce a harmonious sweet and sour play, very pleasant but without the ultimate
depth. (MS)
Kruger- Rumpf, Münsterer Dautenpflänzer Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Nahe 17 Drink 2010-17
Fresh citric aromas develop into a crisp combination of apple and grapefruit on the palate; mouthwatering fruit is well supported by some fine minerally notes and leads to a
lengthy finish with a firm edge. (MS)
Kruger- Rumpf, Münsterer Pittersberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Nahe 16.5 Drink 2010-17
Lively, lighter Riesling style with very crisp acidity, but enough juicy fruit; apple and grapefruit; taut, really fresh, mouth- puckering, but in no way thin. (MS)
KŰHLING- GILLOT, Rheinhessen
Kühling- Gillot, Niersteiner Pettenthal Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Rheinhessen 17 Drink 2012-19
Has the spontaneous- fermentation signature also present in the Battenfeld- Spanier wines, quite dominant at this stage; more of that on the palate, maybe a little yellow fruit,
definitely loads of minerality; potential needs to be judged by the weight, concentration and finish, which are all substantial. (MS)
Kühling- Gillot, Niersteiner Őlberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Rheinhessen 17.5 Drink 2012-19
Once more the green, herbaceous notes of spontaneous fermentation, but there is also some exotic fruit emerging; opulent body, rich texture and lingering minerally finish
make this a real contender! (MS)
Once more the green, herbaceous notes of spontaneous fermentation, but there is also some exotic fruit emerging; opulent body, rich texture and lingering minerally finish
make this a real contender! (MS)
Kühling- Gillot, Oppenheimer Sackträger Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Rheinhessen 17.5 Drink 2012-19
More generous nose, less inhibited by the still present spontaneous- fermentation aromas, yellow fruit, minerality and spices to the fore; slightly medicinal with aniseed and
herbs, minerally notes well integrated, quite rounded with a very rich texture, great finish (MS)
PHILIPP KUHN, Pfalz
Philipp Kuhn, Laumersheimer Steinbuckel Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Pfalz 18 Drink 2010-17
Spontaneous- fermentation aromas still lingering with touch of green fruit peel, but on the palate the fruit just beginning to open up, accompanied by delicate herbal notes, has
great concentration and power as well as a mineral edge, great expectations! (MS)
Philipp Kuhn, Laumersheimer Kirschgarten Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Pfalz 16.5 Drink 2010-17
A difficult one at this stage, with some heady spirity notes, almost a touch medicinal, appears quite oily in texture, maybe it is suffering from post- fermentation stress
syndrome, the length is certainly there, I decide to sit on the fence. Did I say Viognier last year? The almonds are certainly there again. (MS)
Philipp Kuhn, Grosskarlbacher Burgweg Im grossen Garten Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Pfalz 17 Drink 2010-17
Extraordinary scent of coconut and gorse; quite generous but sailing on the edge of a slight bitterness akin to apple peel; quite a powerhouse, with good length too, maybe just
a little too big to become an all time great. (MS)
Philipp Kuhn, Laumersheimer Kirschgarten Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs 2007 Pfalz 18 Drink 2012-19
Quite deep cherry red with ruby rim; nose a little mute just hinting at cinnamon- dusted plums; powerful impact on the palate, great structure, solid grip of tannins on packed
fruit straining at the leash, cherries from the Kirschgarten; muscular and with great length. (MS)
FRANZ KŰNSTLER, Rheingau
Franz Künstler, Hochheimer Kirchenstück Riesling Erstes Gewächs 2008 Rheingau 17.5 Drink 2010-17
Fresh apple with a hint of rice pudding; lime and grapefruit flavours; full bodied, but with a steely backbone, finely tuned minerally finish. (MS)
Franz Künstler, Hochheimer Hölle Riesling Erstes Gewächs 2008 Rheingau 17 Drink 2010-17
Attractive fermentation aroma of ambrosia rice pudding; racy acidity and finely graded minerality give this wine firm structure and good definition. (MS)
Franz Künstler, Hochheimer Reichestal Spätburgunder Erstes Gewächs 2007 Rheingau 16.5+ Drink 2010-17
Brick red with salmon pink rim; burnt rubber suggests some serious toasting; this is confirmed by some slightly bitter notes, though a rich velvety texture holds great promise
once the tannins have subsided; one for the long term if fruit manages to push through. (MS)
LANGWERTH VON SIMMERN, Rheingau
Langwerth von Simmern, Hattenheimer Mannberg Riesling Erstes Gewächs 2008 Rheingau 15.5 Drink 2010-15
Pear drops and peel; quite green fruit, fair acidity, slightly minerally tang, mid length. (MS)
Langwerth von Simmern, Hattenheimer Wisselbrunnen Riesling Erstes Gewächs 2008 Rheingau 16 Drink 2010-15
Pear drop and pear skin; clean and fresh with mouthwatering acidity; attractive but lightweight. (MS)
DR LOOSEN, Mosel
Dr Loosen, Űrziger Würzgarten Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Mosel 17 Drink 2010-15
Intriguing combination of apple and spice; acidity quite bracing, but followed by an attractive development of spices and minerality, quite long with it. (MS)
Dr Loosen, Erdener Treppchen Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Mosel 16 Drink 2009-15
Apple and apple- peel aromas, quite green; very racy and steely with bags of crisp acididity, very fresh, maybe just alittle on the sharp side. (MS)
LŰTZKENDORF, Saale- Unstrut
Lützkendorf, Karsdorfer Hohe Gräte Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Saale- Unstrut 14 Drink 2010-?
Nose reminiscent of white spirit; bruised apple and an odd caramel taste; not fresh enough and short of substance. (MS)
Lützkendorf, Karsdorfer Gräte Silvaner Grossess Gewächs 2008 Saale- Unstrut 14.5 Drink 2010-12
Pear- drop smell, pear- drop taste; simplistically citric, without dimension. (MS)
MESSMER, Pfalz
Messmer, Weyerer Michelsberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Pfalz 15.5
Drink 2010-15
A little earthy, a delicate scent of pears; quite simply knit, taking its effects from a skilful interpretation of the sweet (fruit) and sour (acidity) theme. (MS)
Messmer, Burrweiler Schäwer Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Pfalz 16 Drink 2010-15
Grapefruit aromas including pith; fair substance, still a little raw, some pith and peel flavours, fair length. (MS)
Messmer, Burrweiler Schlossgarten Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs 2007 Pfalz 15.5 Drink 2010-15
Cherry red with ruby rim, medium depth; light touch of spice on the nose supported by a flickering of strawberry on the palate; touch soapy, light dusting of tannins; pleasant
early developer, but lightweight. (MS)
GEORG MOSBACHER, Pfalz
Georg Mosbacher, Forster Pechstein Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Pfalz 16.5 Drink 2010-15
Citrus fruit aromas; theme continued on the palate with the sweet fruit and mouthwatering acidity of juicy, ripe grapefruit, some even more tropical fruit notes develop, very
forward, but just a tick one- dimensional maybe. (MS)
Georg Mosbacher, Forster Freundstück Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Pfalz 16 Drink 2010-15
Pear- drop and banana fermentation aromas on the nose, quite soft on the palate, light and fresh, delicate pear flavour, pleasant, propped up by a fair minerally finish. (MS)
Georg Mosbacher, Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Pfalz 16.5 Drink 2010-15
A little fermentational with banana aromas on nose and palate, well embedded in acidity, a firm mineral backbone gives the wine excellent structure. (MS)
Georg Mosbacher, Deidesheimer Kieselberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Pfalz 16 Drink 2010-15
Touch of pineapple and mango on nose, pink grapefruit, fair acidity and some minerality combine to provide some points of interest, but just lacking that extra point of
complexity. (MS)
DR NÄGLER, RHEINGAU
Dr Nägler, Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland Riesling Erstes Gewächs 2008 Rheingau 16 Drink 2010-15
Generous and almost honeyed fruit aromas are confirmed by opulent fruit on the palate, but surprisingly the acidity is very low key, the finish middling. (MS)
NELLES, Ahr
Nelles, Heimersheimer Burggarten Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs 2007 Ahr 16 Drink 2010-13
Pale ruby with pink rim; slightly rubbery with some soapy fermentation aromas; on the palate some light and attractive strawberry fruit is embedded in some very gentle
tannins; an early bird. (MS)
Pale ruby with pink rim; slightly rubbery with some soapy fermentation aromas; on the palate some light and attractive strawberry fruit is embedded in some very gentle
tannins; an early bird. (MS)
Nelles, Heimersheimer Landskrone Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs 2007 Ahr 15.5
Drink 2010-13
Ruby red with pink rim; nose slightly distorted by sulphurous rubber notes; more charming on the palate with delicate cherry tones and a gentle tannin costume; lightly
structured. (MS)
PAWIS, Saale- Unstrut
Pawis, Freyburger Edelacker Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Saale- Unstrut 16.5 Drink 2010-15
Nice fruit on the nose with lime and peaches dominating; fruit quite intense; also quite full bodied, maybe an acidity adjustment of sorts, but the necessary edge is provided by
a minerally score; well defined. (MS)
PFEFFINGEN, Pfalz
Pfeffingen, Ungsteiner Weilberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Pfalz 16 Drink 2010-15
Faint nose with delicate herbal aromas; fresh pears with a hint of pear peel, nicely balanced acidity, lighter style of Grosses Gewächs. (MS)
Pfeffingen, Ungsteiner Herrenberg Mardelskopf Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Pfalz 16 Drink 2010-15
Apple and pear on the nose; quite earthy with touches of aniseed and quinine, fair concentration and length. (MS)
FRED PRINZ, Rheingau
Fred Prinz, Hallgartener Jungfer Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Rheingau 16 Drink 2010-15
Very shy on the nose, but on the palate forthcoming with a touch of tropical fruit, well reined in by a good measure of crisp acidity; fresh and racy, but trailing off a little short.
(MS)
PRINZ ZU SALM- DALBERG'SCHES, Nahe
Prinz zu Salm- Dalberg'sches, Wallhäuser Johannisberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Nahe 15 Drink 2010-13
Fresh apple and grapefruit fragrance is not quite matched by a rather lacklustre palate; the 2008 acidity does not show; edge or more grip is needed. (MS)
Prinz zu Salm- Dalberg'sches, Roxheimer Berg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Nahe 15.5 Drink 2010-13
There is just a dot of minerality on the light fruit; always round and creamy, the 2008 exhibits a rather green fruit, though this gives the wine a bit of an angle. (MS)
RAPPENHOF, Rheinhessen
Rappenhof, Niersteiner Pettenthal Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Rheinhessen 14.5 Drink 2010-13
Touch volatile, hint of glue; appley and with a citric sharpness, a bit mean, almost as if fruit was not ripe enough. (MS)
Rappenhof, Niersteiner Ölberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Rheinhessen 15 Drink 2010-13
Slightly buttery nose, on the palate the pronounced acidity of a Granny Smith apple, but not too sour, steely backbone; shortish finish. (MS)
RATZENBERGER, Mittelrhein
Ratzenberger, Steeger St Jost Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Mittelrhein 15.5 Drink 2010-13
Pear drops in ambrosia rice pudding; fresh, racy, nice mineral touch, just a hint of tropical fruit; pleasant, but not great. (MS)
Ratzenberger, Bacharacher Wolfshöhle Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Mittelrhein 15 Drink 2010-13
Light green, herbaceous notes; very fresh, very Granny Smith, just a tad lean and not enough weight for a GG. (MS)
REBHOLZ, Pfalz
Rebholz, Siebeldinger Im Sonnenschein Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Pfalz 18 Drink 2010-23
Very spicy; lime and sweet grapefruit, salty minerality; great substance, concentration and length, a long distance runner. (MS)
Rebholz, Siebeldinger Im Sonnenschein 'Ganshorn'Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Pfalz 18.5 Drink 2010-23
Exotic fruit, great concentration of spices, powerful, concentrated fruit with firm minerally backbone, great length, excellent long term potential. I think the extra acidity of 2008
has lifted this to another level. (MS)
Rebholz, Birkweiler Kastanienbusch Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Pfalz 18 Drink 2010-23
Apple and pear dusted with spices, particularly nutmeg, ripe yellow fruit on the palate harmonises well minerality and spices; crisp acidity despite a generous texture; long and
promising. (MS)
Rebholz, Siebeldinger Im Sonnenschein Grosses Gewächs 2004 Pfalz
18 Drink 2009-14
Pale brick red, fiery orange rim; cherries and plums in brandy, leafy autumnal notes; quite well developed though still firm; ripe and juicy fruit mingles with fine notes of cedar
and spice; very inviting to drink now, but with enough backbone for a few more years of drinking pleasure. (MS)
REICHSGRAF VON KESSELSTATT, Mosel
Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt, Scharzhofberger Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Mosel 17 Drink 2010-15
Very delicate green fruit, but dusty minerality has the upper hand on the nose; classic Mosel of mouthwatering green fruit and a sprinkling of minerals, well balanced acidity and
body, fair length.
Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt, Kaseler Nies'chen Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Mosel 15.5 Drink 2010-13
Almost oily texture, acidity has been tamed to the extent of becoming almost a little flabby and though minerality is there, vibrancy is lacking.
Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt, Josephshöfer Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Mosel 17 Drink 2009-15
Attractive fresh fragrance of apple and pear, even a touch flowery, just a hint of spontaneous fermentation; yellow fruit on the palate, body and acidity well balanced, finishes
on a fine layer of minerality. (MS)
Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt, Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Mosel 15.5 Drink 2010-13
Nose quite austere, just a touch flinty; on the palate apple and grapefruit, fair texture, but finally overwhelmed by acidity. In my modest experience the Sonnenuhr is not the
best site for trocken (yet). (MS)
REICHSRAT VON BUHL, Pfalz
Reichsrat von Buhl, Forster Pechstein Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Pfalz 17 Drink 2010-15
Tropical fragrance with pineapple dominant, well rounded on the palate with a delicate herbal touch and a firm minerally edge, cannot extract too much complexity at this
stage, but 'in dubio pro reo' [give the defendant the benefit of the doubt]? (MS)
Reichsrat von Buhl, Forster Jesuitengarten Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Pfalz 17.5 Drink 2010-17
Unusual combination of aniseed and lime, on the palate nice harmony of lime fruit, salty tang and attractive acidity, long finish with a tactile minerally edge. (MS)
Reichsrat von Buhl, Forster Kirchenstück Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Pfalz 16.5 Drink 2010-15
Much more restrained in terms of fruit than the 2007, with greater expression of herbs and spices; on the palate there is the firm acidity of 2008, but for me it's just lacking a
little bit of dimension to become a Great. (MS)
Reichsrat von Buhl, Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Pfalz 16.5 Drink 2010-15
Delicate appley fragrance; crisp and fresh with mouthwatering acidity, a hint of greengages on the palate, otherwise quite straightforward with the ever present von Buhl
Reichsrat von Buhl, Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Pfalz 16.5 Drink 2010-15
Delicate appley fragrance; crisp and fresh with mouthwatering acidity, a hint of greengages on the palate, otherwise quite straightforward with the ever present von Buhl
minerality on the finish. They are just very good at expressing that component. (MS)
Reichsrat von Buhl, Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Pfalz 16.5 Drink 2010-15
There is definite change in style from the 2007 with the 2008 much more taut and restrained; on the palate there is still a fine play of fruit and minerality, but not the most
complex of wines. (MS)
Reichsrat von Buhl, Ruppertsberger Reiterpfad Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Pfalz 16 Drink 2010-15
Touch of exotic fruit on the nose, mouthwatering sweet and sour pineapple flavour, lacking a little bit of substance. (MS)
DETLEV RITTER UND EDLER VON OETINGER
Detlev Ritter und Edler von Oetinger, Erbacher Siegelsberg Riesling Erstes Gewächs 2008 Rheingau 16 Drink 2010-15
Melon and apple aromas continue from nose to palate; ripe fruit flavours are well complemented by a sound acidity; well balanced sound wine with fair length on the finish.
(MS)
SALWEY, Baden
Salwey, Glottertaler Eichberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Baden 16 Drink 2010-15
Green medicinal notes, sorrel, camphor, spontaneous- fermentation aromas dominating; this carries through to the palate with a healthy dose of acidity to boot, but there is
plenty of body and good length, so Cinders may get to the ball after all. (MS)
Salwey, Oberrotweiler Eichberg Grauburgunder Grosses Gewächs 2008 Baden 18 Drink 2010-17
A touch of barrel fermentation with fragrant vineyard peach aromas; melon mingles with tropical notes, massive concentration of fruit; dusty mineral component provides a firm
tactile grip; sound structure and backbone make this a serious contender; the sort of wine to unite the unrepentant 68 leftie with the staunch conservative, at least for a little
while. (MS)
Salwey, Oberrotweiler Eichberg Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs 2007 Baden 16 Drink 2010-17
Medium depth, ruby with purple rim; herbal and vegetal notes rather than fruit or oak; continues on the palate with an unusual green vegetal component, a little soapy, not too
much wood though tannins are firm; astringent finish. (MS)
Salwey, Oberrotweiler Kirchberg Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs 2007 Baden
17 Drink 2012-19
Medium deep cherry red with ruby rim; cherry aromas supported by more conventional smoky and toasted notes; good substance of fruit reined in by a firm tannic grip;
astringent finish, one for the long term. (MS)
ST ANTONY, Rheinhessen
St Antony, Niersteiner Pettenthal Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Rheinhessen 15.5 Drink 2010-15
Some green apple, also the merest suggestion of caramel and butterscotch; more apple peel than apple, also a little bit of grapefruit, taking on some mineral notes, but just a
tad flat, lacking backbone a little bit. (MS)
St Antony, Niersteiner Őlberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Rheinhessen 16 Drink 2010-15
Pear and some yellow fruit notes; quite crisp and steely, acidity adds some interest, ending on a minerally finish, almost chewy. (MS)
St Antony, Niersteiner Orbel Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Rheinhessen 16 Drink 2010-15
Apple and pear, quite green, almost more peel notes than fruit, also a touch of camphor reminiscent of spontaneous fermentation, mineral, almost slaty notes promise
potential; still in its shell, so to speak. (MS)
HORST SAUER, Franken
Horst Sauer, Escherndorfer Lump Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Franken 18+ 2010-19
Starts of with a really green edge but works its way towards a generous note of tropical fruit; on the palate the minerality is really gripping with a smidgeon of quinine, but acidity
and body provide a perfect foil. A bit like the Grolsch, it's not ready yet, but it has great character and length already. (MS)
Horst Sauer, Escherndorfer Lump Silvaner Grosses Gewächs 2008 Franken 17.5 Drink 2010-15
Tropical fruit in a herb garden; very juicy to start with, then beginning to develop a dusty, flinty component and finishing off on a slightly bitter note; excellent length. (MS)
KARL SCHAEFER, Pfalz
Karl Schaefer, Dürkheimer Michelsberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Pfalz 15 Drink 2010-15
Fresh apple on the nose; appley on the palate, but not as fresh as on the nose, nothing wrong, but lacking dimension. (MS)
Karl Schaefer, Forster Pechstein Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Pfalz 15.5 Drink 2010-15
Fair harmony between delicate fruit and mineral content, but just lacking that little extra definition and trailing off a little short. (MS)
SCHÄFER- FRŐHLICH, Nahe
Schäfer- Fröhlich, Schlossböckelheimer Kupfergrube Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Nahe 18.5 Drink 2010-21
Aromas of fresh lime and grapefruit yoghurt; on the palate things get more serious with some taut minerality and lip- smacking acidity; firm structure, almost austere at this
stage, but very elegant and quite tactile and smoky; I wrote mineral three times in my notes, and am totally convinced that in time the wealth of fruit is going to become an
equal partner to the flinty notes, this is going to be a serious contender. (MS)
Schäfer- Fröhlich, Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Nahe 19 Drink 2010-21
Slightly fumey aromas mingle with the fragrance of ripe yellow fruit; this theme continues on the palate, complemented by a fresh citric component; despite the generous fruit, a
dusty and flinty minerality gets a firm grip and supported by juicy acidity evolves into a wine of great elegance and complexity; perfection is not far away. (MS)
Schäfer- Fröhlich, Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Nahe 18 Drink 2010-19
Almost exuberant exotic fruit from nose to aftertaste; full bodied; opulent and generous fruit expression does sideline minerality a little bit, though a juicy acidity provides the
necessary balance; great wine, just a tad more obvious than the previous two. (MS)
Schäfer- Fröhlich, Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Nahe 17.5
Drink 2010-17
Once again some tropical fruit, mainly lime, with a touch of cream cheese and yoghurt fermentation still showing its colours; though there is a fair expression of minerality, the
acidity seems well disguised, producing a smoother, softer and more opulent style of wine; a firmer grip on the finish would have added value, but for less patient enthusiasts
this is the most approachable at an early stage. (MS)
SCHLOSS JOHANNISBERG, Rheingau
Schloss Johannisberg, Schloss Johannisberger Riesling Erstes Gewächs 2008 Rheingau 16 Drink 2010-15
Touch of the camphor, a little herbaceous; interesting combination of tropical fruit and herbs, a little flat on the finish. (MS)
SCHLOSS NEUWEIER, Baden
Schloss Neuweier, Neuweier Mauer- Wein Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Baden 15.5 Drink 2010-13
Understated, slightly herbal nose; very lively spritz, sherbet, almost foaming; quite racy, but a little simplistic, hardly grand cru. (MS)
Schloss Neuweier, Neuweier Das goldenene Loch Mauerberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Baden 15.5 Drink 2009-13
Slight citrus nose, hint of pear; lively spritz, sherbet, pleasant, but simple. (MS)
SCHLOSS SCHŐNBORN, Rheingau
SCHLOSS SCHŐNBORN, Rheingau
Schloss Schönborn, Hochheimer Domdechaney Riesling Erstes Gewächs 2008 Rheingau 16 Drink 2010-15
Light fragrance of green fruit; quite soft with a well- tamed acidity, green fruit on the palate; has the merit of a tactile dusty finish. (MS)
Schloss Schönborn, Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Erstes Gewächs 2008 Rheingau
16.5 Drink 2010-15
Fresh grapefruit and lime aromas; on the palate grapefruit with an almost chalky dusting, well defined acidity, good structure and length; just lacking a little in complexity on the
final furlong. (MS)
Schloss Schönborn, Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Riesling Erstes Gewächs 2008 Rheingau 16 Drink 2010-15
Tropical fruit on the nose; quite sweet exotic fruit with a refreshing acidity, pleasant and attractive, just a little short on complexity and length. (MS)
Schloss Schönborn, Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling Erstes Gewächs 2008 Rheingau 16.5 Drink 2010-15
Begins with a slightly spirity and medicinal note, but follows up with juicy apple and honeydew melon; a tactile minerally component gives this a little more of an interesting
edge. (MS)
SCHLOSS SOMMERHAUSEN, Franken
Schloss Sommerhausen, Sommerhäuser Steinbach Silvaner Grosses Gewächs 2008 Franken 15.5 Drink 2010-13
Touch of caraway; full bodied, but just a little flabby, the acidity of 2008 not really showing; slightly bitter herbal finish. (MS)
SCHLOSS VOLLRADS, Rheingau
Schloss Vollrads, Riesling Erstes Gewächs 2008 Rheingau 15.5 Drink 2010-15
The nose exhibits just a faint hint of fermentation aromas; a correct balance of fruit and acidity produces a simple sweet and sour combination but no excitement. (MS)
SCHLOSS WESTERHAUS, Rheinhessen
Schloss Westerhaus, Ingelheimer Schloss Westerhaus Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Rheinhessen 16 Drink 2010-15
Fresh and clean fermentation aromas with a hint of elderflower; lively, fresh, racy, touch lemony, crisp acidity, the elderflower is still there, interesting variation on the
Sauvignon Blanc theme perhaps. (MS)
SCHLOSSGUT DIEL, Nahe
Schlossgut Diel, Burg Layer Schlossberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Nahe 16.5 Drink 2009-14
Medicinal, green nose; green fruit, plenty of acidity, plenty of substance too, finishing on a flinty mineral note. (MS)
Schlossgut Diel, Dorsheimer Pittermännchen Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Nahe 17 Drink 2010-17
Almost medicinal nose at this stage, possibly influence of spontaneous fermentation, also a hint of yellow fruit; this has slimmed down a bit compared with the 2007, with more
emphasis on the mineral content; it's quite raw at this stage, but with plenty of potential. (MS)
Schlossgut Diel, Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Nahe 18 Drink 2010-19
Though the wine has plenty of dusty and flinty aromas, it is less medicinal and quite generous on the palate. Having slimmed down a bit on the exotic fruit of the 2007 there is
still a good core of fruit embedded in substantial minerality; quite austere at this stage, but with great structure and depth. (MS)
Schlossgut Diel, Dorsheimer Burgberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Nahe 18 Drink 2010-19
Starting with some very herbaceous aromas; 2007 was dominated by fruit, but in 2008 minerality has the upper hand; quite taut and austere at this stage, but probably with the
greatest potential once the gloves come off; the balance between fruit, acidity and minerality seems to be just right. (MS)
SCHMITT'S KINDER, Franken
Schmitt's Kinder, Randersacker Pfülben Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Franken
17.5 Drink 2010-17
Generous exotic fruit; firm on the palate, dusty wet flint minerality kept in check by sound acidity; great definition.and structure. (MS)
Schmitt's Kinder, Randersacker Pfülben Silvaner Grosses Gewächs 2008 Franken 16 Drink 2010-15
At this stage still in post- fermentational trauma with a cream cheese note; seems quite straightforward in its combination of sweet and sour elements of fruit and acidity,
finishing off on a mineral touch. (MS)
SCHNAITMANN, Württemberg
Schnaitmann, Uhlbacher Götzenberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Württemberg 17.5 Drink 2010-17
Did I have a root day last year or is this really so much better than the 2007? Tropical fruit notes on the nose, then on the palate the generous fruit is well reined in by a
mouthwatering acidity and tactile minerality; has the grip, complexity and structure to demostrate that Württemberg has arrived on the Riesling scene! (MS)
Schnaitmann, Fellbacher Lämmler Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Württemberg 17 Drink 2010-17
Mandarine Napoleon poured over Ambrosia rice pudding; pear, melon and mandarin fruit with ample acidity and firm minerally edge; great structure and length. (MS)
SIEGRIST, Pfalz
Siegrist, Leinsweiler Sonnenberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Pfalz 16 Drink 2010-15
Yellow fruit with sprinkling of spice; very soft on the palate, could do with a little more bite (acidity). Mr Pleasant! (MS)
JOSEF SPREITZER, Rheingau
Josef Spreitzer, Hattenheimer Wisselbrunnen Riesling Erstes Gewächs 2008 Rheingau 17.5 Drink 2010-19
Possibly misled by pronounced spontaneous- fermentation aromas, I scored the 2007 low; I cannot deny that on the nose there is still some herbaceous element, but also
some apple and citrus fruit; on the palate I find a precise definition of fruit and a mountain spring- like freshness; great structure, quite taut for now, but long too. (MS)
Josef Spreitzer, Oestricher Lenchen 'Rosengarten' Riesling Erstes Gewächs 2008 Rheingau 18 Drink 2010-19
Herbaceous notes of nettles and camphor dominate at this early stage; on the palate ever expanding flavours of generous fruit, lime with aniseed and fennel, There can be no
doubt about the concentration, but again a slightly odd note of camphor, probably from spontaneous fermentation, judging on compactness and length of flavour, this is a
serious effort. (MS)
STAATLICHER HOFKELLER WŰRZBURG, Franken
Staatlicher Hofkeller Würzburg, Würzburger Innere Leiste Riesling 2008 Grosses Gewächs Franken 16 Drink 2010-15
A hint of tropical fruit is complemented by a strong minerally edge, but acidity turns just a little sour; not as complex as some. (MS)
Staatlicher Hofkeller Würzburg, Würzburger Stein Silvaner Grosses Gewächs 2008 Franken 16 Drink 2010-13
Strong on fruit, melon, apple and pear; very rich texture, generous to the extent of flabby, ends on a slightly flat note. (MS)
STAATLICHE WEINBAUDOMÄNE OPPENHEIM, Rheinhessen
Staatliche Weinbaudomäne Oppenheim, Nackenheimer Rothenberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Rheinhessen 16 Drink 2010-15
Quite restrained apple and apple peel nose; grapefruit on the palate, but despite a minerally touch a little flat. (MS)
Staatliche Weinbaudomäne Oppenheim, Niersteiner Glöck Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Rheinhessen 16 Drink 2010-15
Fennel and caraway aromas; aniseed and quinine notes on the palte, just a tad bitter, but saved by some tropical fruit on a decent finish. (MS)
Staatliche Weinbaudomäne Oppenheim, Niersteiner Glöck Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Rheinhessen 16 Drink 2010-15
Fennel and caraway aromas; aniseed and quinine notes on the palte, just a tad bitter, but saved by some tropical fruit on a decent finish. (MS)
Staatliche Weinbaudomäne Oppenheim, Niersteiner Ölberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Rheinhessen 16 Drink 2010-15
Flinty and appley fragrance; apple, pear and understated minerality on the palate, refreshing acidity; just lacking content a little. (MS)
STAATSWEINGUT FREIBURG & BLANKENHORNSBERG, Baden
Staatsweingut Freiburg & Blankenhornsberg, Freiburger Schlossberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Baden 15.5 Drink 2010-15
Tropical fruit aromas, but at the same time still a little lactic; pineapple and grapefruit, sweet and sour, enjoyable, but nothing complicated; sound wine. (MS)
Staatsweingut Freiburg & Blankenhornsberg, Blankenhornsberger Doktorgarten Grauburgunder Grosses Gewächs 2008 Baden 17 Drink 2010-15
A little melon, a little peach; on the palate aniseed and a mineral wet flint flavour add some interest; just a little on the sweet side. (MS)
STAATSWEINGUT WEINSBERG, Württemberg
Staatsweingut Weinsberg, Abstädter Burg Wildeck Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Württemberg 16 Drink 2010-15
Meadow herbs and flowers make this an instant attraction, there is even some lily of the valley, but in the best possible taste; on the palate juicy pear flavour makes for easy
drinking, very pleasant, just lacking a little bit of structure. (MS)
Staatsweingut Weinsberg, Gundelsheimer Himmelreich Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs 2007 Württemberg 16 Drink 2010-17
Fairly deep, almost mauve with purple rim; smoky, cedary, plummy; good substance under a mantle of powerful oak; big, but not necessarily subtle. (MS)
STIGLER, Baden
Stigler, Ihringer Winklerberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Baden 16.5 Drink 2010-15
A touch of tropical fruit on the nose, but on the palate it is a little greener and fresher, the old Kaiserstuhl volcano (extinct!) providing a sound backbone of minerality; fair length
too. (MS)
Stigler, Ihringer Winklerberg Grauburgunder Grosses Gewächs 2008 Baden
16.5 Drink 2010-15
Quite spirity with notes of melon and pear; juicy melon in the centre with a pear peel finish; good length, but on the upper sweet borders of Trocken. (MS)
Stigler, Ihringer Winklerberg Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs 2007 Baden 16 Drink 2010-15
Pale brick red with fiery orange rim; intriguing combination of rosehip tea and bonfire on the nose; just a tad cheesy with tannins and wood aromas well on top, fruit very
subdued, my crystal ball remains ambivalent. (MS)
JEAN STODDEN, Ahr
Jean Stodden, Ahrweiler Rosenthal Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs 2007 Ahr 17.5 Drink 2010-17
Medium cherry red with pink rim; smoky and with a tingle of white pepper; full bodied with generous fruit of cherries and plums, keeps expanding, shows the weight of the lower
Ahr terroir, smoky bacon finish that continues to linger. (MS)
Jean Stodden, Bad Neuenahrer Sonnenberg Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs 2007 Ahr 18 Drink 2010-17
Medium depth, strawberry red, pink rim; cherries, spice and smoky bacon aromas lead to cherries in brandy with a dusting of white pepper; very subtle use of oak to
complement the fruit, finely chiselled, superbly structured, well- integrated tannins. (MS)
Jean Stodden, Recher Herrenberg Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs 2007 Ahr 18.5
Drink 2012-19
Medium cherry with salmon pink rim; Starts deceptively gently but evolves into a subtle plethora of plums, cherries, tannins, spices and minerality; masterly use of wood to
envelop the fruit; measured and refined, the great red hope. (MS)
VILLA SACHSEN, Rheinhessen
Villa Sachsen, Binger Kirchberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Rheinhessen 14.5
Drink 2010-13
Faintly flowery and appley; green apple and apple peel on the palate with a hint of bitterness; quite correct, but nothing exciting. (MS)
Villa Sachsen, Binger Scharlachberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Rheinhessen 15.5 Drink 2010-13
Delicate peach and butterscotch aromas; clean, fresh, light peach plus peach stone flavours complemented by a little grapefruit; pleasant. (MS)
VON OTHEGRAVEN, Mosel
Von Othegraven, Kanzemer Altenberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Mosel 16 Drink 2010-15
Very unusual nose of apricot and almond, reminiscent of Viognier; very rich texture with almond kernel and vineyard peach flavours, but very low on acidity; very unusual, lacks
typicity, but quite attractive nevertheless. (MS)
Von Othegraven, Wiltinger Kupp Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Mosel 16 Drink 2010-15
Some herbaceous notes, also a hint of apricot; peach and apricot on the palate, rich texture, some acidity, quite spirity on the finish; unusual style. (MS)
Von Othegraven, Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Mosel 16.5 Drink 2010-15
There is an Othegraven signature with apricot, vineyard peach aromas that remind me of either Viognier or barrel fermentation; nevertheless this wine also exhibits the typical
Bockstein spices and minerality; is there such a thing as more Bockstein than Riesling? (MS)
VON WINNING / DR DEINHARD, Pfalz
Known simply as Dr Deinhard until the 2008 vintage.
Von Winning / Dr Deinhard, Deidesheimer Kalkofen Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Pfalz 16.5 Drink 2010-17
Fresh fragrance of ripe apple and pears; touch of whisky cask, but with a refreshing acidity, operating on the boundaries of Trocken, but quality. (MS)
Von Winning / Dr Deinhard, Deidesheimer Kieselberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Pfalz 17 Drink 2010-17
Quite spirity, with distinctly herbal notes, a touch of caramel, malt whisky associations, is there some wood influence? Powerful and interesting wine, maybe not quite Riesling
as we know it. (MS)
Von Winning / Dr Deinhard, Deidesheimer Langenmorgen Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Pfalz 16 Drink 2010-17
Opulent, almost overripe fruit aromas, touch of satsuma; acidity is well integrated, but not the most complex of wines. (MS)
WAGNER- STEMPEL, Rheinhessen
Wagner- Stempel, Siefersheimer Heerkretz Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Rheinhessen 16.5 Drink 2010-17
Yellow fruit with a little butterscotch; quite opulent with nice play of fruit and acidity, just lacking that final edge to get complexity going. (MS)
Wagner- Stempel, Siefersheimer Höllberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Rheinhessen 17.5 Drink 2010-17
Nose already quite developed with herbs, peaches and mandarins; generous fruit, firm acidity, mineral backbone, good length. (MS)
DR WEHRHEIM, Pfalz
Dr Wehrheim, Birkweiler Kastanienbusch Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Pfalz 16.5 Drink 2010-17
Aromas reminiscent of fennel and aniseed; quite earthy with a mini- dose of quinine bitterness, definitely different, OTT to some; full- bodied and with a lasting finish. (MS)
Dr Wehrheim, Birkweiler Kastanienbusch Köppel Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Pfalz 17 Drink 2010-17
A hint of tropical fruit, lifted by a herbal fragrance; good concentration of flavour with a firm mineral grip; length promises potential. (MS)
A hint of tropical fruit, lifted by a herbal fragrance; good concentration of flavour with a firm mineral grip; length promises potential. (MS)
Dr Wehrheim, Birkweiler Kastanienbusch Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs 2007 Pfalz 16.5 Drink 2010-15
Pale- medium cherry red with salmon pink rim; refined cedar and a hint of raspberry on nose followed by more soft raspberry flavours on palate; quite soft, feminine and
seductive (yes I know, men can be seductive too) but rather lightly structured. (MS)
ROBERT WEIL, Rheingau
Robert Weil, Kiedricher Gräfenberg Riesling Erstes Gewächs 2008 Rheingau 19 Drink 2010-21
There appears to be a hint of barrel fermentation, but restrained enough for some yellow fruit to emerge; the concentration of flavours puts it in a different league, and though
the acidity of 2008 is allowed to express itself, it does not overpower body or fruit, there is a fine harmony; added value comes from a finely pitched minerally finish; great
length. (MS)
HANS WIRSCHING, Franken
Hans Wirsching, Iphöfer Julius- Echter- Berg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Franken 16 Drink 2010-15
Has some juicy sweet fruit and is quite pleasant and soft; for my taste it is bordering on to the sweeter side of trocken and could also do with a bit more of an edge, but than not
evrybody's a macho! (MS)
Hans Wirsching, Iphöfer Kronsberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Franken 16.5 Drink 2010-15
Sweet and sour pineapple, just a tad more of a minerally grip; quite authentic Franken style, though it's still a softie. (MS)
Hans Wirsching, Iphöfer Julius- Echter- Berg Silvaner Grosses Gewächs 2008 Franken 16 Drink 2010-13
Quite spirity with some yellow fruit aromas; pleasantly sweet and sour without the extra dimension, some added value coming from a smoky aftertaste. (MS)
Hans Wirsching, Iphöfer Kronsberg Silvaner Grosses Gewächs 2008 Franken 17
Drink 2009-15
Herbal, spicy and earthy notes; sucking wet pebble effect complemented by a herbal tangent, just an incy wincy bit on the sweet side. (MS)
WITTMANN, Rheinhessen
Wittmann, Westhofener Aulerde Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Rheinhessen 18.5 Drink 2010-19
Freshly baked bread, fruit basket; very rich on the palate with great concentration of flavours, complemented by a firm backbone of acidity; has so much fruit that it transcends
the boundaries of the trocken definition; fresh despite its opulence, great length too. (MS)
Wittmann, Westhofener Kirchspiel Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Rheinhessen 18.5 Drink 2010-19
Vineyard peaches on an alpine meadow, what you can't have in real life you can have from a glass of wine! Generous lashings of very ripe and juicy citrus fruit, tangerines and
oranges, minerality blends in effortlessly, nothing overstated except the outstanding finish, in which all elements keep their strength and balance. (MS)
Wittmann, Westhofener Brunnenhäuschen Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Rheinhessen 19.5 Drink 2010-21
As fresh as a mountain spring with generous aromas of peach and apricot stopping just short of exotic, but always maintaining that attractive fresh edge; intense and
concentrated on the palate with mouthwatering acidity to boot; long, complex and oh so mineral! Maybe I'm a philistine, maybe I'm a purist, I would NEVER drink this with food!
(MS)
Wittmann, Westhofener Morstein Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2008 Rheinhessen 19 Drink 2010-19
I detect a hint of caramel, so maybe caramelised fruit, but has it ever been done with limes? On the palate there is that lovely fresh lime zestiness lifted by some salty
minerality; very, very opulent rendering of fruit; some will prefer this to the Brunnenhäuschen, it comes down to a choice between minerality and opulence, as they are equal in
depth, concentration and length. (MS)