Cyprus Today, Jan-March 2007 1
Transcription
Cyprus Today, Jan-March 2007 1
Editorial Nicosia, the capital of Cyprus is the place which has been continuously inhabited for the longest time on the whole island. It can boast an almost uninterrupted succession of settlements from the Chalcolithic period in the 4th millennium BC to the present day. Modern Nicosia is built on layers of ruins, the typical stratigraphy being - from the lowest strata - Cypro-Archaic, Hellenistic, Byzantine, Frankish, Venetian, Ottoman a long succession of civilizations. It is not surprising, therefore, that many construction sites in Nicosia may turn out to be archaeological areas the earth yielding up its secrets as archaeologists painstakingly work to uncover the mysteries it held back for centuries. After St George’s Hill, where the discovery of part of the ancient city has put the project for a new House of Representatives building on hold (see relevant article by Dr Despo Pilides in Cyprus Today, vol. XXXVII, April - June 1999), and the unearthing of a Lusignan castle in the heart of the old city where a new municipal building is to be erected, a new surprise was in store on the construction site of the new Supreme Court. The site, situated on the eastern bank of the Pedieos River revealed the ruins of a 14th century convent of the Cistercian Order. In the main article of the present issue of our review, archaeologist, Eftychia Zachariou-Kaila, whose team have been carrying out intensive excavations, presents their important findings which do not only identify an important monastery but also provide clues to the lifestyle of nuns living in Cistercian convents. In the same revelatory and exploratory spirit, Dr Sophocles Hadjisavvas, in his article “Wine Culture in Cyprus” presents the case of wine making on the island through the eyes of an archaeologist. The topic was well debated throughout the centuries. Historians, geographers and travellers often refer to the wines of Cyprus, for which the island has been renowned since antiquity, as being ‘extremely subtle’ or ‘exquisitely light’. Pliny considers Cyprus wine to be superior to all other wines, while Strabo designates Cyprus as ‘an island of fine wines’. Mediaeval travellers never fail to praise the strong and rich wine of Cyprus. Although the beginning of wine making in Cyprus cannot be dated with certainty, Dr Sophocles Hadjisavva’s article reveals archaeological evidence which suggests that wine making was practiced long before Pliny’s or Strabo’s references. It is obvious that the roots of viticulture in Cyprus go back to the depths of history as the roots of our vines to the depths of our land. 1 The Cistercian Convent of St. Theodore in Nicosia Rescue Excavation in the Supreme Court Area Eftychia Zachariou Kaila - Department of Antiquities The medieval fortification of Nicosia, as it developed before the 16th century, was made redundant with the arrival of gunpowder, which changed century old traditions of warfare. Guns and fortresses were now essential for defence. Due to the pressure of Ottoman expansionism that appeared as early as the 15th century, the old medieval fortifications Nicosia within the Venetian walls 2 that protected the cities of the Venetian empire needed to be modernized. Consequently, in 1567 the Venetian Crown began designing the new walls of Nicosia. The Venetian walls of Nicosia had a smaller circumference than the previous Lusignian walls. In order to achieve a better defence system it was thought necessary to demolish any building that lay in the area between the old and new walls. The ruins of these buildings became valuable sources of sandstone, which was the main material used for facing the new walls. Among the eight churches – both Orthodox and Catholic – and the five monasteries that were sacrificed in the name of defence, was the female monastery dedicated to St. Theodore, which belonged to the Latin Cistercian Order (Estienne de Lusignian, Description de toute l’isle de Chypre, Paris, 1580, fol.32). In his important book on the Gothic Art in Cyprus, published in 1899, the French archaeologist Camille Enlart mentions St. Theodore, which was already known from written sources, as being one of Nicosia’s vanished monasteries and whose exact location was unknown. More than a century later, on the construction site of the new building of the Supreme Court and covering the area of the new building’s future monumental entrance, chance finds were unearthed which identified the site as the remains of the nunnery of St. Theodore. On the 30th of August 2004 the contracting company of the new Supreme Court building notified the Department of Antiquities that a tombstone had been unearthed during construction work. It was therefore necessary to thoroughly examine the area. 3 The inscribed tombstone, which happens to be our most important find, enables us to link the architectural finds with the available historical enidence1. In this context the female figure engraved on the tombstone holds a staff in her left hand, which symbolizes both the abbess’s power and her pastoral role. The figure is bordered by an inscription, which refers to Plaisance de Giblet, abbess of the nunnery of St. Theodore, who died on Friday, 10th of February 1328. In 1244 the head of the Cistercian Order, Abbot Boniface of Citeaux (the original and leading monastery of the Cistercian Order) gave his approval for the foundation of an abbey of nuns of the Cistercian order in Nicosia. This was with the initiative of Alice of Montbeliard, widow of the regent Philip of Ibelin, who wished to provide a place for her daughter Mary. The plot for this convent was located between the first Dominican house and the location of the future Beaulieu Abbey, a Cistercian men’s monastery, which was then in the hands of the Franciscans. The inscribed tombstone unearthed during the construction of the new Supreme Court. The figure of the abbess, Plaisance de Giblet, who died in 1328, is engraved on it St. Theodore was not just the average Latin nunnery. The inscription on the tombstone demonstrates the significance of the abbey: not only was the founder a woman of a leading noble family and the widow of the regent of the Kingdom of Cyprus, but almost a century later its abbess, Plaisance, was a member one of the most important Cypriot noble families, the Giblets, who were among the highest nobility after the Lusignans and the Ibelins. The abbey was probably the richest nunnery of Cyprus as is shown from church tax records. The only monasteries to pay high- I would like to thank Chris Schabel, Assistant Professor of Medieval History at the University of Cyprus for his valuable contribution. 1 4 General view of the excavation site er taxes were the wealthy and powerful men’s abbeys of Cistercian Beaulieu, Premonstratensian Bellapais and Benedictine Stavrovouni. According to the Italian traveller Niccolo Martoni, by 1394 "St. Theodore, which is a church of nuns", was situated "within the walls of the city". This gives us another clue about the extent of the walls constructed 5 in the fourteenth century, which were replaced by the present Venetian walls in 1567. Until the 1360s, Nicosia appears to have been without walls. In his Italian Chorograffia of 1573, Etienne de Lusignan mentions that the Cistercian nuns of St. Theodore lived in the monastery until it was destroyed in 1567. Unfortunately the phrase is not in the later, corrected French translation, which suggests that St. Theodore did not survive upto 1567. The excavation, which began in the first week of September 2004, was carried out in collaboration with the archaeologists Efthymia Alphas, Stalo Eleftheriou and Xenia Michael. The area under excavation consisted of 800 square meters, its limits being the Supreme The foundation of the lavabo unearthed 6 Court building which was under construction in the north part of the site, the 1930s building known as the Poulias building in the south, and Charilaos Mouskos street in the east. Considering that by the time the Department of Archaeology was informed and arrived at the site the construction of this public building was approaching its completion and the contractors were desperately attempting to meet strict deadlines, one can appreciate how difficult the working conditions were. The excavation therefore took place quite literally in the middle of the construction site. Only a very small part of the monastic building complex has been revealed. The monastery’s very bad state of preservation and the absence Efthymia Alphas and Stalo Eleftheriou excavating at the site of any architectural evidence beyond the wall foundations make the site’s reconstruction extremely difficult. We are however familiar with the perfectly preserved 12th and 13th century Cistercian monasteries in France. Given that gothic architecture in Cyprus, although based upon western artistic styles, had its own particular character, it seems likely that the same was true for the architecture of St. Theodore’s monastery. The architecture of Cistercian monasteries follows strict conventions which reflect the Cistercian monastic way of life. Decorative sculpture is absent while representations and the use of colour is generally avoided. The nucleus of the monastic building complex is the cloistergarth which is usually rectangular or square in plan and is surrounded by four colonnaded galleries (quadriporticus). In the area covered by the staircase of the Supreme Court a cloister yard has been revealed, which is rectangular in plan and measures 22 by 18m, along with the galleries which surround the yard. Adjacent to the eastern wall of the yard the foundations of a lavabo have been unearthed. The lavabo is circular in plan and part of the drainage The Poulias building system consisting of a clay pipe has survived. Research on Cistercian monasteries in France has shown that there is evidence that the vaulted galleries that formed the cloister were not just passages but that they were also areas where religious processions took place during specific religious events and for the ceremony of the weekly washing of the feet (pedilavium) which was an enactment of Christ washing his disciples’ feet. As far as the monastery of Saint Theodore in Nicosia is concerned, the northeast corner of the galleries was probably the abbess’s burial ground. Unfortunately it is not possible to locate her tomb with certainty since the digger that revealed her tombstone caused much damage by removing important evidence. The vaulted galleries provided covered access to various rooms that opened onto them. The excavation also revealed a group of rooms in the south that open onto the south gallery. Although the function of these rooms has not yet been determined, the remains (kilns, unbaked clay) point towards the area being used as a workshop and a kitchen area. A large amount of cooking 7 the 15th and the beginning of the 16th century. Among the above was also an open bowl, imported from Italy with both incised decoration and painted green and yellow motives. ware was also noted from this area. At the westernmost part of these rooms, and bordering the Poulias building, two pits were excavated, providing valuable information since they contained sealed deposits. Both cooking ware and glazed pottery were unearthed from the first pit including a Majolika type jug that can be attributed to workshops in the Venice region. In addition, two vessels (Plain ware) with vertical handles were found but their use has not yet been determined. The second pit contained local pottery, which can be dated to between the end of 8 The excavations revealed the remains of at least 35 burials, covered by irregularly shaped stone slabs. In some cases river stones were used to delineate the graves. Most of the dead were positioned with their arms placed across their body below their chest whereas others were placed with their arms and wrists placed parallel to their bodies. Evidence of wooden coffins was not noted in any of the burials. Although the study of the graves has not yet begun it is expected that the human remains do not belong exclusively to the female members of the convent as it was a customary practice of the mediaeval church to offer prayers for the dead and space for family tombs in exchange for financial donations, as well as to the staff hired by the nuns for heavy manual work. A collective analysis of the human bones from excavations of the mediaeval sites of Nicosia will perhaps provide valuable information concerning the population, the changes in standards of health and the diet of the city’s inhabitants during this period. A very basic preliminary study of the pottery and the coins unearthed shows that the site was continually inhabited between the 13th and the end of the 16th century, which agrees with the written sources that place the monastery’s founding and destruction within this time limit. The next period which is documented by the evidence is the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century, when the British built army premises in the area, which are still known today as the Wolsely Barracks. The Department of Antiquities, being the responsible body for the protection of antiquities, believed that the preservation and consequently the display and visibility of the site were issues that needed to be considered seriously and resolved. regarding the access to the building needed to be altered. The initial plans included an access via a staircase on an embankment, which would have led to the building’s main entrance, whereas a second point of access would have led to the open space at the back of the building. Antiquities were unearthed in both access routes. The solution that was suggested by the Architect, Mr Alexandros Livadhas, and was approved by the Department of Antiquities, provided for the creation of an accessible archaeological site, which is covered by the main entrance’s 600 square meter elevated concrete slab, which is supported by 11 foundation supports. Natural light in this area is provided through openings made in the entrance’s concrete slab. The proposed solution also provided for the construction of a platform (in the south part of the site) covering a surface area of 200 square meters and composed of horizontal glass slabs which cover the site and at the same time allow it to be visible. A special Even though the site’s preservation is fragmentary, the excavated features can be identified and can be historically positioned, providing valuable historical evidence but also acting as a landmark in the landscape of mediaeval Nicosia. Following the Department of Antiquities’ demand to incorporate the antiquities into the new Supreme Court building plan, the plans Various glazed pottery items found on the site 9 One of the 35 tombs found during the excavations ly designed passageway leading to the exhibition area and to the building’s outdoor spaces was placed on top of these glass slabs. The planners made the positioning of the 11 support columns after the Department of Antiquities made sure that the supports would not affect the archaeological features. Although the building of the new Supreme Court along with the salvage excavation that simultaneously took place is a small-scale project since the area of archaeological investigation was rather limited, it is however the first time that an attempt has been made to incorporate ancient remains in a modern public building in Cyprus. The Convent of St. Theodore in Nicosia was not the only Cistercian religious house in Cyprus. Written sources locate the existence of the monastery of Beaulieu at Pyrgos in the Limassol district. However its position has not to this day been sufficiently investigated archaeologically. After a short period the monastery moved from Pyrgos to the outskirts of the walled city of Nicosia. This monastery, known as Beau Lieu, was located in 1901 during exca10 vations by the French archaeologist Camille Enlart. It was not identified as such, however, because Enlart considered that it was a Franciscan monastery, having been led to this conclusion by additions which were made at later stages. The site where Enlart carried out the excavation remains unknown to contemporary research because the architectural remains of the monastery are no longer visible, having been covered up or destroyed. The only known information for finding the position is the description which Enlart gives and which locates it to the west of the city, on the axis of Ayia Sophia and Panayia tis Tyrou. This axis runs exactly from the area between Kinyra, Korivou and Rimini Streets to a short distance from Paphos Gate and the new Supreme Court building. The area between the above streets has been acquired by the Republic of Cyprus for the purpose of building offices for the Town Planning and Housing Department. In September 2005 archaeological investigations began on the site, and are still in progress, in cooperation with the archaeologist Stalo Eleftheriou. In the north section of the excavated site architectural remains have been found which although fragmentary relate to a building of monumental character. A large room was found, aligned east-west, 9 metres wide and about 25 metres long. The wall, 120 centimetres wide appears to extend to the east, beyond the excavated site. To the north of this room smaller walls have been uncovered which appear to have been extended to form smaller rooms belonging to the same complex. The walls made of limestone and river gravel were used for their foundations. The scientific documentation and the assessment of the various finds of the site will perhaps indicate a new determination of the position, as in the case of the site of the Supreme Court, providing us with important information about the topography of mediaeval Nicosia. It will be a link which will in the future possibly lead to the identification of other sites as well, such as those of the other monasteries mentioned in the sources, relating finally to the extent of the mediaeval fortifications of Nicosia which no longer survive. Bibliography: Annual Report of the Department of Antiquities for the year 2004, (Nicosia 2006), 86-90. N. Coureas, The Latin Church in Cyprus, 1195-1312, (Aldershot 1997). C. Enlart, Gothic Art and the Renaissance in Cyprus, trans. D. Hunt (London 1987). C. Enlart, “L’ ancient monastère des Franciscains à Nicosie de Chypre,” Florilegium Recueil des travaux d’ erudition dédiés à M. Le Marquis de Vogüé, (Paris 1909), 215-29. C. Schabel, O Camille Enlart Î·È ÔÈ ∫ÈÛÙÂÚÎÈ·ÓÔ› ÛÙÔÓ ¶‡ÚÁÔ, Report of the Department of Antiquities 2002, 401-406. The Supreme Court entrance after the construction of the concrete slabs and before the glass slabs were placed 11 Wine Culture in Cyprus Dr Sophocles Hadjisavvas The well-known House of Dionysos in Paphos illustrates in mosaic form the importance of the vine and wine in Cyprus during the Roman occupation of the island. The principal hall, the triclinium, is decorated with a carpet-like mosaic floor representing vintage scenes, vines laden with grapes and humans and erotes pick- ing the fruit. Apart from the many representations of the god of wine Dionysos, who gave his name to the house, the most prominent panel of the west portico which communicates with the triclinium depicts the history of winemaking. King Ikarios, unaware of Dionysos’ true identity gave the god hospitality while the latter was on Mosaic depicting Dyonisos with nymph Akme drinking wine from a bowl. Late 2nd and early 3rd century. Nea Paphos 12 Vintage mosaic, House of Dionysos, Nea Paphos. Hunting scenes, a rabbit pecking a bunch of grapes, birds and peacocks 13 a visit to Athens. Dionysos showed his gratitude by teaching Ikarios how to cultivate the vine and make wine from its fruit - something that up until then was unknown to mortals. The mosaic depicts King Ikarios returning home with a cart loaded with wineskins. On his way he met two shepherds to whom he gave some wine to taste. The shepherds became intoxicated and are shown falling down. An inscription in Greek above them explains why: "those who drank wine for the first time". This tragic episode is the mythological assumption that winemaking is a divine present to the mortals. Winemaking was known in Cyprus long before Strabo wrote his Geography and even longer before the Paphos mosaic was made. I will try to present the case of winemaking on the island of Aphrodite through the eyes of an archaeologist, starting with the cultivation of the vine. Macrobotanical remains attesting to the presence of vines on the island were found in two Neolithic and in almost all Chalcolithic sites from all over Cyprus. Thus, the earliest archaeological proven evidence dates back to the middle of the fifth millennium BC. Pip imprints were discovered in two sites of the Early and Middle Bronze Age as well as in later Late Bronze Age sites. The particular shape and size of the pips enabled archaeobotanists to distinguish between the wild grapevine and the cultivated Vitis vinifera. Thus while the earlier specimen is of uncertain identification because of its incomplete nature, the later specimen may be classified as belonging to a cultivated species of vine. It is quite possible that the wild species Vitis sylvestris existed on the island long before its habitation along with the remaining "first fruits of civilization" such as Mosaic depicting King Ikarios and the first wine drinkers. Late 2nd – early 3rd century. Nea Paphos 14 the olive, the fig and dates. It is rather difficult to make any assumptions concerning the time and circumstances under which the wild vine was brought into cultivation. We may, however, suggest that the inten- sive cultivation of the grapevine led to specialization of labour. Another question which remains to be answered is the time of the first winemaking on the island. There is no direct evidence for the production of wine in ancient times. Archaeologists have not discovered large deposits of fruit which had been crushed for the extraction of juice to be drunk as wine after fermentation. There are, however, some installations related to wine production but their dating is obscure. To some extent these installations are similar or identical Clay model showing a ritual related with grape treading Rock-cut installation used as a press 15 to olive oil production installations. Whatever the case, much equipment related to wine production was made of wood, thus leaving no trace in the archaeological record. Indirect evidence for the consumption and most probably the pro- duction of wine is present in the form of wine residues found in the bottom of pointed amphoras suitable for transport and storage. A large number of them have been discovered in the Hellenistic layers of the House of Dionysos in Paphos. Head of Bacchus in relief. Limestone, 3rd century BC 16 Wine “eye” cup decorated with Dionysos. (Polis) Some idea about wine producing installations may be obtained from representa tions of everyday life scenes appearing on the shoulders of different types of vases dating to the Early and Middle Bronze Age. One such deep bowl of Red Polished Ware was found in Kalavasos and published in 1986. The bowl bears a scenic composition which it seems the excavator interpreted as a wine press scene. A fragmentary human figure to be standing in a trough and he/she may be crushing grapes. This interpretation is by no means certain. The bowl dates to the Middle Bronze Age (c. 1900 BC). A much better and more realistic scene appears on a richly decorated Red Polished ware jug discovered in a tomb in the village of Pyrghos two years ago. The jug is provided with a double cut-away neck and two vertical handles from rim to shoulder. A large number of everyday life scenes rendered in the round occupy the entire shoulder of the vase. The most notable are a ploughing scene, a woman holding an infant, women preparing bread, a donkey carrying goods and a prominent seated figure. The most complicated group represents several figures possibly treading grapes for the production of wine. A human figure, its extended hands supported by the two vertical handles of the jug, is standing within an oblong spouted trough. A receptacle circular basin is placed below the projecting spout to receive the treaded product. Another human figure is standing behind the receptacle basin, its hands holding a jug with cut-away spout in the basin. The whole arrangement of the human figures in combination with the placement of the treading trough and the receptacle basin hint to the presence of a wine press- Kantharoid bowl decorated with bunches of grapes 17 ing installation. The iconography of the Cyprus vase is almost identical to a vintage and treading scene from a painting in the Tomb of Nakht dated c. 1372-1350 BC from the Valley of the Nobles in Thebes. The Egyptian painting, however, shows three standing figures in the treading trough while the remaining features are identical to the Cypriot vase. Naturally a painting affords many more possibilities for detailed representation than modelling in clay. A similar scene is known from an Attic blackfigured amphora by the painter Amasis dated c. 550 BC, not to mention later representations in mosaics and other media. duction of the lever press, which was in use in combination with a screw mechanism up to the middle of the present century, wine as well as olive oil were produced in simple rock-cut installations consisting of a sloping crushing or treading floor connected to a lower collecting vat. For the production of wine the treading floor was made deeper and usually larger in size. Such installations were recently discovered on a low rocky plateau in Geroskipou, overlooking the ancient city of Paphos, the capital of Cyprus during most of the Hellenistic and Roman periods. As I have mentioned before, wine producing installations are similar to olive oil installations but some slight differences may clarify their identity. Deep pressing troughs could be associated with wine production although they could also be used for olive pressing. Such is the spouted circular trough from the Late Bronze Age settlement near the Larnaka Salt Lake. Similar troughs are also known from Kommos in Crete. There is a variety of shapes and combinations of these installations which no doubt were used for the production of wine. The most common combination are two basins, at slightly different levels communicating through an open channel or through a hole between them. Treading took place in the first basin at a higher level and the juice was conveyed into the lower basin which is usually much bigger and deeper than upper one. There is little doubt that the level press was used for the production of wine as well as for the production of olive oil. For the latter this use was established on archaeologiHorn-shaped vase cal evidence at least from used for drinking as early as the Late Bronze wine (Bellapais) Age. Before the intro18 In one case a canalis rotunda resembling a chariot wheel is also connected to a couple of basins. It is possible that this circular channel was used only when olives had to be crushed, but we cannot exclude the possibility of the use of a galeagra for the pressing of grapes. Small portable installations made from a monolithic stone are also known in some parts of the island. An example from Paphos represents a press bed rectangular in plan, connected with a rectangular receptacle. This monolithic installation works in combination with a wooden container Detail from the Pyrgos jug. The human group represents a wine press scene. The first figure seems to be treading grapes in the trough and the must is collected in the circular basin (cofre) and most probably is the predecessor of the galeagra with screw. All types of presses known from classical literature appear in Cyprus throughout the Roman period, attesting to the close contacts between metropolitan centres and the provinces of the empire. The presence of stone stipites in at least five different sites provides direct evidence for the use of the lever and drum press as described in detail by Cato and demonstrated by the wine press in a Pompeiian house. The introduction of the screw in the pressing operation replaced all previous installations at least in large capacity wine producing units. Its application enabled 19 greater force to be brought in and, as a consequence, the press bed could be placed anywhere between the anchoring point and the screw. This type of press which was described in detail by Pliny was in use up to the middle of the 20th century at least in three different wineries on the island of Cyprus. During the Byzantine period it was the press par excellence in all church wineries used by the communities. Small mobile presses known as galeagra were introduced most probably during the later part of the Roman period as a result of the decentralisation of the economy. Their prototype is known in Pompeii in the form of a single screw direct press. Complete examples are still preserved in monasteries which continue old traditions. The earliest preserved equipment is usually entirely constructed of wood. Cyprus wines were famous since the time of Strabo but this fact did not prevent the import of wines from world famous centres such as Rhodes, Thasos and Chios. Wine containers from these Aegean islands have been discovered in the Hellenistic cemetery of Paphos as well as in the Roman villas. The wine of Cyprus was also famous in the Middle Ages and King Francis I of France attempted to naturalize the Cyprus grapevine at Fontainebleau, albeit without success. The Knights Templar who established their Grande Commanderie at Kolossi produced their own wine which became known as the vin de la Commanderie. This wine is still produced on the Kolossi Castle - where the Knights Templar produced their Commandaria wine 20 Fikardou – pressing mechanism with wooden cast and screw Large terracotta jar (pithari) used for storage island not by factories but traditionally by certain villages. The wine is known today as Commandaria and it is bottled at the Limassol factories under different commercial names. quering Cyprus in 1571, the wine industry did not flourish during the period of Ottoman rule. The main obstacle was the triple taxation amounting to 28%, as well as some vine diseases. Etienne de Lusignan, writing in 1580, praises the wine of Cyprus as "the best in the world". This, he writes, is confirmed by Saint Bernard, Saint Thomas Aquinas, Saint Gregory and Saint Hilarion. Saint Gregory mentions that Solomon planted in his garden some vines which he had transported from Cyprus. Commandaria wine, despite the oppression of both the Venetian and Turkish rulers, very strictly maintained its main traditional characteristics, the area where the vines were cultivated and the method of production. At present, the same method of making Commandaria continues to be as successful as during the period of the Crusades and it is probably the same method recorded by Hesiod 2000 years earlier. Commandaria is known since the Templars and Hospitallers, thus it is the wine with the oldest appellation of origin. Though there is no historical basis for the story that the sweet wine of Cyprus was the main inducement of the Turkish Sultan Selim II for attacking and con- 21 Karageorghis’ Memoirs The memoirs of the well-known Greek Cypriot archaeologist, professor and writer, Dr Vassos Karageorghis have recently been published in English by the Mediterranean Archaeological Museum of Stockholm under the title "A Lifetime in the Archaeology of Cyprus". The publication is a tribute paid by the Medelhavsmuseet to the man who ever since 1948, when, as a student he worked on an excavation conducted by the Swedish Professor Arne Furumark, developed warm ties with Swedish scholars and supported the study of Cypriote archaeology in Sweden. 22 Itorn ofthetheforeword to the publication, the DirecMedelhavsmuseet, Sanne HoubyNielsen, appreciates that Dr Vassos Karageorghis "is the man whose enormous energy, whose never failing will to explore and understand ancient Cyprus no matter what political disasters, and whose boundless passion for the archaeology of Cyprus has highlighted Cyprus permanently on the scholarly map of the Mediterranean." The memoirs trace Vassos Karageorghis’ personal and professional life from his childhood in the village of Trikomo, stricken with poverty during the years prior to the Second World War, through later years of academic and archaeological success, decorations and honorary doctorates. And throughout this extraordinary life, the driving force that propelled him to heights was his fierce will-power to succeed, his determination, his ambition "controlled to a degree which has beneficial effects" as he puts it. In the 226-page book, which took him three months to write, very little is left untouched and from the captivating narrative that keeps rolling, one can sense the satisfaction the writer relishes going through all those years. The memoirs start with the early years in the village of Trikomo where most families could hardly afford the bare necessities for their children. Primary school recollections are vivid; early rising and walking to school, a frugal breakfast of bread and olives, shoes worn only in winter, at church and during ceremonies at school, football played with a rag ball, the joy of learning and the instinctive will, that gradually became second nature, to be the best. As a pupil in the gymnasium in Nicosia, he worked hard to justify a scholarship and tasted the satisfaction of collecting all the prizes in the school throughout his secondary education. A pupil at the Pancyprian Gymnasium, in January 1946 With Jaqueline at Grenier, in 1950 23 After a short spell at the University of Athens, he was accepted to read Classics at University College, London; an experience he enjoyed enormously as he had the opportunity to listen to the fascinating lectures of Professor Martin Robertson, T.B.L. Webster, Gordon Childe, Mortimer Wheeler and other great names in archaeology. Back in Cyprus in 1952, he was appointed Assistant Curator at the Cyprus Museum, obtained his Ph.D. Doctorate from the University of London in 1957, was promoted to Curator in 1960 and in 1964 Director of the Department of Antiquities. His first task was to revive the publication of the Report of the Department of Antiquities of Cyprus and make it the annual scientific journal of the Department. His career as a civil servant was not easy but, as he remarks, "it was not time wasted as I tried to learn how to be efficient, how to take decisions and collaborate with other people." Meanwhile, in 1952, he started excavating at Salamis where he uncovered grandiose monuments: the Gymnasium, the Baths, the Theatre - inaugurated with Sophocles’ Oedipus Rex, performed by the pupils of the Famagusta Greek Gymnasium – and later, in 1963 the Royal Tombs with horses and chariots. The excavations at Salamis lasted twenty-two years (1952 - 1974), the most enjoyable period of his whole career abruptly interrupted by the Turkish invasion. "I saw my dreams crushed, and Salamis as well as my village disappeared all of a sudden from my life." There is ongoing grief for his "beloved site" and the 1974 occupation "a bleeding scar "on his soul and mind. After 1974, as a Director of the Department of Antiquities he managed to turn the limelight of research in the Mediterranean on Cypriote archaeology through a liberal policy which opened the island to international research. His archaeological reach has been wide and his friends have included eminent foreign professionals such as Einar Gjerstad, Mortimer Wheeler, Olivier Masson, Marguerite Yon, Jean Pouilloux, Claude Schaffer, Edgar Peltenburg, Franz-Georg Maier, Paul Åstrom and others. Removing the soil from the bronze statuette decorating one of the chariots of tomb 79. Salamis, 1966 24 In 1989, having served in the Department of Antiquities for 37 years, and having seen his policy and vision being fulfilled, he retired. During his tenure at the Department of Antiquities he has lectured extensively as Visiting Professor at various universities such as the State University of New York, Université Laval, Quebec, the University of Aberdeen, Princeton N.J., U.S.A. or Visiting Fellow at Merton College, Oxford, All Souls College and Oxford etc. Showing André Malraux, Minister of Culture, the exhibition ‘Treasures of Cyprus’ in Paris With Prof. F.G. Maier at Kouklia, in 1983 With Marguerite Yon at Kition, in 1981 In addition to his university appointments abroad, there are accounts of a series of international symposia following the success of the First Symposium on the "Myceneans in the Eastern Mediterranean" held in 1972. The proceedings of all the symposia were promptly published. In 1988, the Department of Greek and Roman antiquities of the British Museum organized an international archaeological symposium on "The First Millennium BC in Cyprus" in Dr Karageorghis’ honour. It was one year after the opening of the A.G. Leventis Gallery of Cypriote Antiquities (on 9 December, 1987). The keeper of the Department, Dr B.F. Cook wrote in his preface: "……It was decided to devote the Greek and Roman Department’s annual colloquium to Cyprus and East Mediterranean in the Iron Age, and to dedicate the colloquium to Vassos Karageorghis, who has made such a distinguished contribution to the study of ancient Cyprus. He has done this in three ways: by his own scholarship, through administration and by what may be described as archaeological diplomacy. His scholarly achievement 25 After receiving the Onassis Prize ‘Olympia’ with Hans-Dietrich Genscher and Jimmy Carter, 1991 Instructing American and Canadian students. Summer school at Kition resting on a host of excavations and publications is so well known and so highly admired as to need no further accolade here………" The couple have two children, a daughter, Clio who studied architecture and works at the Department of Museology at the Louvre Museum, a son, Andreas, Professor of Mathematics at the University of Cyprus and four grandchildren. Honours were literally heaped upon him. He was conferred more than thirty distinctions, Honorary Doctor of more than ten universities, member of several academies, among them the Academy of Athens and the Royal Swedish Academy. He was awarded some prestigious prizes like the Onassis Prize ‘Olympia’ in Athens, in 1991 for his efforts to trace and repatriate antiquities smuggled out of Cyprus after the 1974 war and the "Cavalli d’Oro di San Marco" in Venice, in 1996. One of the honours that seems to have touched him deeply was from his own village of Trikomo, a silver plaque with a representation of the old church of Ayios Iakovos. The memoirs also recall personal matters: meeting his French-born wife , Jaqueline, also an archaeologist, during his student years; their Bohemian "honeymoon" in the dig house built by the Swedish expedition at Vouni Palace where in spite of the primitive conditions they felt they were in a five-star hotel. He never fails to express his high regard for his discreet and understanding wife who "provided a serene family life, made my work easier and very often sacrificed much of her own time in helping me in my research", he admits. 26 In 1990, Vassos Karageorghis joined the Anastasios G. Leventis Foundation, and in 1992 he accepted an appointment as the first Professor of Archaeology at the University of Cyprus and Director of the Archaeological Research Unit. He retired from the University of Cyprus in 1996 and since then he has been with the Leventis Foundation as Director of the Cyprus branch of the Foundation, member of the Board of Governors of the Foundation and a consultant for all archaeological projects of the Foundation in Greece and elsewhere. This has been a most rewarding period of his life. He considers that working with Constantinos Leventis, the fist Chairman of the Foundation, was an honour and a privilege, and there was absolute trust and consensus of opinions between them, sharing the vision for the conservation and promotion of the Greek cultural heritage wherever it manifests itself. Thus, he set about the task of resurrecting the Cypriote antiquities forgotten or hidden in the dark store-rooms of foreign museums. As their return to the country of origin was not feasible, generous grants from the A.G. Leventis Foundation enabled a number of museums to create Cypriote Galleries: the Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge (1997), four galleries were assigned to the Cesnola Collection in the Metropolitan Museum, New York (2000), the National Museum of Denmark (2002), the British Museum, the Louvre, the Antikensammlung in Berlin, the Medelhavsmuseet in Stockholm, the Eretz Museum in Tel Aviv, the Royal Ontario Museum, the Kunsthistorisches Museum in Vienna, the Archaeological Museum of Odessa, the Pushkin Museum in Moscow, the Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg…and the list is still growing. Illustrated catalogues were also published for all the collections. Apart from helping foreign museums to exhibit and publish their collections of Cypriote antiquities, Dr Karageorghis has derived particular pleasure from helping institutions in foreign countries, especially those facing financial difficulties, to carry out cultural projects such as for example, the Archaeological Museum of Odessa, the libraries of the Universities of Mariupolis and Harkovo (Ukraine) and the ancient Odeon of the city of Plovdid (Philippoupolis) in Bulgaria. Dr Karageorghis continues to rise at dawn and do research work and writing in his office, in the sandstone neo-classical renovated building of the Leventis Foundation. With the beautiful garden surrounding it, the atmosphere is serene, an ideal place to work in. Writing his memoirs, he stresses, does not mean the end of active participation in archaeology and life in general. "There are still many moments to enjoy in life", he confesses, such as "the discovery of an interesting object in a museum store-room, the completion of a project like that of the archaeological Museum of Odessa, the satisfaction of seeing young and bright Cypriot men and women earning a Leventis scholarship to study for a doctorate in universities throughout the world…." Then, he adds, there is also "the smell of jasmine on a summer afternoon in the garden of my office and so much more". He insists that life is sweet as he launches new projects. "To be among the living is a blessing, and one should never be discouraged or unduly saddened by hardships and hurdles", he counsels. New member of the Academy of Athens, in 1992, with Professor Sakellariou Closing the memoirs, he expresses his only wish, which is "to describe the day when I may visit my own native village again, and my beloved Salamis, and feel free to travel all over the small island which I tried to come to know in depth for so many years and to serve for more than half a century." 27