Remains of „Kane Lodge“ found on Greely Island, Franz Josef Land ?

Transcription

Andreas Umbreit
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Franz Josef Land: Possible discovery of the Kane Lodge depot of the Baldwin-Ziegler expedition (1901/02)
Andreas Umbreit
umbreit@terrapolaris.com
www.franz-josef-land.info
29. August 2012
Observe: Illustrations from this article may be used otherwise only with the written consent of the author.
Illustrasjon 1: The eventual remains of Kane Lodge depot from sea: the narrow beach provides no shelter against
the forces of the sea (even small waves reaching right between the objects) and ice pressure. It is hard to imagine that
the Baldwin-Ziegler expedition chose such a location for such an important depot. However, coastal erosion may have
changed the location considerably over the more than 100 years.
Remains of „Kane Lodge“ found on Greely Island,
Franz Josef Land ?
Participating on the Franz Josef Land cruises of the MV ORTELIUS in summer 2012, one of
my key wishes was to follow my high interest in polar history and solve a few of the riddles for
which I could not find answers in the literature available to me. One of the highest ranking
questions on my list of objectives was to have a look at a mysterious site created by the USamerican Baldwin-Ziegler expedition (1901/02), called „Kane Lodge“. Possibly, this search
was successful in summer 2012.
Historic background
The Baldwin Ziegler expedition was financed by the US-american business man William Ziegler,
who had made his fortune mainly with production and sale of baking powder and who wished to
have his name connected with polar exploration and especially with the quest for the North Pole as
the most prestigeous polar project of those years. As the leader for his expedition, he chose his
countryman Evelyn Briggs Baldwin, who had gained polar experience already as second-incommand of the Wellman North Pole expedition of 1898/99, which also had aimed to the pole from
Franz Josef Land, though in the end, it never had left the archipelago, and is known until today
mostly for the dramatic wintering of two of its members in a most primitive shelter on Cape Heller
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on Wilczek Land (including the death of one of the two), and not so much for its limited scientific
merits. Already the Wellman expedition showed clear shortcomings in Baldwin´s ability to lead and
motivate expedition members as well as his strong nationalistic contempt for non-american
participants, which is not helpful for projects which heavily relied on Norwegians with their
expertise in arctic regions. Seemingly, these problems during the Wellman expeditions did not deter
Ziegler from chosing Baldwin as the leader of his expedition and also for leaving the concept of the
expedition largely to Baldwin, who developed the extremely ambitious plan not only of reaching
the North Pole from Franz Josef Land, but also to rely heavily on good luck for the way back, as he
just hoped to return to civilisation somewhere and somehow via Northeast Greenland and the East
Greenland current, which had proven already before to be a risky area to earlier expeditions. Critics
maintain that the biggest success of Baldwin was his ability to convince Ziegler of his abilities as a
leader of a polar expedition and to supply his ambitious project with enormous funding.
In the end, the ambitious Baldwin-Ziegler expedition achieved even less than the Wellman
expedition, but left a number of remains in Franz Josef Land. Best known is its main base, Camp
Ziegler, on Alger Island. Originally meant to be set up in Teplitz Bay on Rudolf Island, heavy ice in
summer 1901 hindered the expedition in getting further than Alger Island in the center of the
archipelago. Not least due to the enormous material ressources of the expedition, Camp Ziegler is a
site amazingly rich in remains, and still fairly well preserved due its remote position and the closure
of the archipelago for visitors for 60 years. Unfortunately, Camp Ziegler is seriously threatened by
coastal erosion. After having realized during my visit in 2011, that the shore line had retreated by
about 10 metres since my first visit in 2003, I compared today´s situation with the detailed local
map of the expedition from 1901, where the distance between station and shore was still 100 m.
Today, shore erosion has reached the perimeter of the central station area and accordingly, each year
from now on is likely to cost a wealth of artefacts, which survived the forces or arctic nature so far.
Not being able to establish his main base for the North Pole advance on Rudolf Island in the far
north of the archipelago, Baldwin tried to compensate for this disadvantage by setting out
substantial supply depots in the archipelago on the route to the north to faciliate the now longer tour
of his planned North Pole party. For this, he used much of winter 1901/02 with all manpower
available, including even the scientists of his expedition on expense of their intended research work.
According to the expedition reports, most important among these advanced caches was the one in
the southwest of Greely Island, named „Kane Lodge“ by Baldwin, which consisted not only of
materials and supplies for the advance further north, but also a cabin made of prefabricated sections
similar to the cabins in Camp Ziegler. Baldwin, being a freemason, had further plans with this cabin
than the sheer needs of his current expedition: anticipating a more busy future for Franz Josef Land,
he anticipated a future use of this cabin in connection with his freemason lodge – hence the
otherwise strange name.
This slightly phantastic background of this cache caught my curiosity and the wish to find out what
might be left on this site, which to my knowledge has never been visited at least by non-russians
since the opening of the archipelago in the 1990s, nor is it registered with any details (not even a
position) in the recently published russian documentation of the historic sites in Franz Josef Land.
Kane Lodge was installed by means of sledges in winter 1901/02 and meant to be used by sledge
parties in spring 1902 – therefore its location did not have to be right at the shore line. In fact, risks
like ice pressure and waves, but also more intense polar bear activity along the beaches would speak
for a location somewhat away from the shore, as long as it was conveniently reachable by sledges,
even more so as Baldwin seemingly had ideas about the cabin in a longer perspective. At the same
time, the scarce informations from the expedition about Kane Lodge indicate that it must have been
at least close to shore, but no more details about what could be expected.
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Kane Lodge, if found, is a highly interesting example for the pioneer period in Franz Josef
Land with its ambitious plans, phantastic intentions and partly dramatic, partly absurd
failures and shortcomings.
Illustrasjon 2: The possible remains of Kane Lodge, seen from the top of the cliff above it. A closer look at the chaos
possibly allows to assume a former order, with spare sledges piled up to the left, the possible two canvas boats and a
further more solid sledge in the middle right at the end of the scree slope, and a pile of about 20 wooden cases (all open
and empty) to the right, where two more sledges may have been thrown on top by the waves. What might be a wall
element for a prefabricated mobile cabin, seems to have been washed against the pile of cases.
In summer 2011, my first attempt to find the site during the touristic cruise led by me on the
SHOKALSKIY, failed due to extreme fog in the area.
On the first cruise of the ORTELIUS in summer 2012, we had the chance to see the potential
location area of Kane Lodge from a larger distance when following the Collinson Channel – and the
terrain in question created doubts: a quite steep scree and rock slope rising from a minimal beach
zone, with some flatter terrain a bit higher up: the latter potentially approchable by dog sledges
from further north, but still fairly high above sea level and thereby possibly nice as a location for a
cabin with good scenic view, but maybe a bit demanding in practice as an expedition cache which
should be easily reachable. The minimal beach zone did not look promising, either, especially in
view of possible ice pressures to be expected througout larger parts of the year with ice on the
straits of Franz Josef Land.
On the second ORTELIUS voyage in 2012, the expedition leader in that year, Rinie van Meurs
decided upon my suggestion to use the area of southern Booth Channel for exploratory activities
(hiking, zodiac cruising) with the tour participants, giving me the chance to have a closer look for
the mysterious Kane Lodge.
In the afternoon of August 28th, while entering the south of Booth Channel between southern Greely
Island and southern Ziegler Island in nice and calm weather, we could spot a suspicious pile of
wooden items from quite a distance on the very narrow beach zone right under the steep scree slope
in a position on southwest Greely Island that matched the vague informations in my literature about
the Baldwin Ziegler expedition quite well – but looked at the same time highly unsuitable as the
location for an important cache and even more to a cabin due to the obvious risks to it by high tide
waves and ice pressure on that narrow beach. However, while sailing into the channel and checking
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the coastline for further artefacts with binoculars while passing it at some 100 metres distance, we
could not discover any other suspicious indications for anything of human origin in the area in
question.
Following the excursion with our touristic cruise passengers, I got the opportunity to get a zodiac
and have a look at the site on the beach discovered some hours earlier, together with team colleague
Ivan Tatone. All in all, we had just about an hour to explore the site itself and its nearer
surroundings.
Illustrasjon 3: The possible remains of Kane Lodge, seen from North. In the foreground the pile of about 20 empty
wooden cases, with two sledges thrown on top and in front of the pile and a single element (probably a section of a
prefabricated mobile cabin) on the beach just right of the cases, touched even by the minimal waves on the day of our
visit.
Location:
We did not have a GPS with us, but by estimate on the sea chart, the position should be about
80.807 degrees North and 57.00 degrees East, with a tolerance of about 100m. However, the site is
easy to find, as it is right on the shoreline (if not washed away or covered by rockfall in the
meantime). Originally, before seeing it, there was the idea to include an eventually found site into a
touristic sightseeing tour for the participants of the cruise. However, there is so little space on that
shore line under the steep scree slope (which in itself is fairly instable and therefore not safe for
many cruise participants), that it makes no sense to go ashore there with the passengers of a tourist
vessel without high risk of damage to the site itself.
Main findings:
Upon arrival, the pile of wooden objects seen from the distance turned out to be a highly interesting
mixture of objects, which in their composition certainly have to be attributed to an expedition of the
pioneer days, including:
>>> 8-10 wooden sledges of at least 3 different designs, some with metal-covered skis (green –
copper ?)
>>> a damaged, canvas-covered wooden frame construction (possibly a kayakk/canoe type
boat) – possibly 2 such boats in a pile. If these are indeed boats, they are probably the most
valuable larger artefacts on this site, as hardly any such fragile light boats have survived elsewhere
from the pioneer days. At the same time, their removal will require great care as the probably fragile
old canvas is stabilised but also filled with beach material washed inside and on top, which has to
be removed very carefully – and afterwards a way of transport and storage has to be devised which
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protects this delicate material, when its current stabilising neighbouring materials are removed.
>>> a double paddle, broken in two parts
>>> a 4-cornered, non-rectangular wooden frame with wooden boards nailed on it from both
sides (design very similar to the elements used for the prefabricated expedition buildings in Camp
Ziegler, the space between the board covers serving as an insulating air layer). The Baldwin Ziegler
expedition took along 3 such prefabricated mobile houses with them, at least 2 of them having been
used in Camp Ziegler on Alger Island.
>>> 20-25 wooden cases, all open and empty, of different sizes. On one, I found an inscription, but
very worn-out: while an initial letter probably looks like a capital „A“ in an artistically inspired
typesetting, the remaining letters are so unclear, that I could not even determine whether they are of
latin or russian alphabet (the capital A existing in both of them).
>>> a collapsed wooden barrel, its elements still bundled by its metal bands
>>> at least one walrus skull, laying next to the site, with the front part with the tusk sockets
chopped off (as customary for hunters interested in the tusk ivory)
>>> a lot of chicken wire, partly seemingly used for holding sledges and other stuff together as
bundles, seemingly zinc-coated (judging by its colour and lack of iron rust, inspite of salt spray
water).
Illustrasjon 4: If this is indeed a canvas coated light boat (kayak/canoe), with a second possibly laying under it, this
is likely to be one of the more exciting findings on this site, as such light vessels rarely survived from the pioneer time
hundred years ago to our time.Beach materials washed into it may have stabilized it for some time against being torn
into pieces so far, but for how long ? Above it the parts of two different broken sledges.
Though seemingly disturbed, maybe by wave force, the materials seem to have been placed here
in a sorted way: a pile of sledges to the south, with the sledges pointing to the sea, the assumed
canvas boat(s) and a more solid sledge in the middle right at the lower end of the scree slope, and a
pile of about 20 wooden cases to the north, with two more sledges on top of them, maybe thrown
there by waves. Beach material has partly filled the empty wooden cases and the spaces between
them and other equipment, thus stabilising the piles of material somewhat, also against further
waves. The single element looking like a prefabricated house wall element, may have been washed
by the sea to its present position.
Considering the openness of this narrow beach to the sea, it is surprising, that these artefacts have
survived here, as even modest waves will wash between them and ice pieces should be pressed
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against them. The pictures show that even with the very little waves on the day of our visit, the sea
reaches regularly right between the artefacts. We arrived at the site late in August in a year with
exceptionally little sea ice and with extremely little snow on land, compared to other years. A
possible explanation for the survival of this potentially endangered site might be the development of
beach ice fairly early in the season and lasting possibly right into early summer, which might
protect this beach over much of the year against erosion by waves and ice pressure. With the trend
to less winter ice and warmer summers, this eventual protection is probably about to get less, thus
increasing coastal erosion and the risk of this heritage site being lost completely.
Illustrasjon 5: A second light canvas boat, here possibly peeking out at the northern end, may be hidden under
theeventual boat on top.
Illustrasjon 6: The remains of possible Kane Lodge, seen from south, from a bit up in the scree slope, clearly showing that the
situation as it is today, is highly unsuitable for a major depot and especially a cabin, due to lack of space and protection against sea
and ice pressure on this narrow beach, with a scree slope right behind it, which is steeper than it seems on this picture. If this should
be the true site of Kane Lodge, the natural surroundings must have changed considerably during the 110 years since spring 1902,
when the Kane Lodge depot was set up – possibly by massive coastal erosion, which in this case may have destroyed most of the
Kane Lodge depot, already, like in other heritage sites in Franz Josef Land (Camp Ziegler on Alger Island, Cape Flora).
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Illustrasjon 7: The possible last remains of Kane Lodge depot - with a pile of four sledges across the picture in the
foreground, and a fifth thrown on top of them. Beach material has been washed between and on parts of the sledges,
caught also by chicken wire wound around some of them.
Illustrasjon 8: The Baldwin-Ziegler expedition took along three mobile cabins, its walls being set together of four-cornered,
non-rectangular prefabricated wooden elements covered with boards on both sides, to create an insulating air layer between them.
This object here might be the last surviving of such elements, used for setting up a cabin here on southern Greely Island (hence the
name "Kane Lodge"), which Baldwin intended to make available also to future Franz Josef Land activities of his freemason
organisation - one of the more phantastic visions of his expedition.
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Illustrasjon 9: Details of the construction of the sledges on the pile in the south of the site. Note also the use of green
metal (corrugated copper ?) cover as part of the ski construction of the upper sledge
Puzzling aspects:
While the materials found, clearly suggest that they belong to an expedition of the pioneer days, and
the location fits the vague informations from the Baldwin Ziegler expedition about Kane Lodge
quite well, I could not find any other strong proof that this finding indeed is Kane Lodge or parts of
it. Rather, the location, as we could experience it, opens for further questions:
>>> The items found, are all damaged and in a chaotic arrangement, which suggests that they have
been at least partly moved by natural forces – even more so as they are partly covered by mainly
beach material (gravel, sand) seemingly washed on and between them by waves, and by a few
stones of the steep scree slope right behind and above them. However, not much rocks seem to have
come down the slope, as the uppermost sledge is practically free of stones on top of it. Therefore,
the artefacts seem to be covered and possibly moved mainly by waves and beach material, possibly
sea ice.
>>> Except for the mentioned possible one construction element, there is neither a sign for a
cabin, nor any space for it on that narrow beach as we found it, contrary to the informations about
Kane Lodge.
>>> For a major cache, the quantity of especially cases seems to be small – either some have been
taken away (for instance by the following Fiala-Ziegler expedition) or they have been hidden or
destroyed by natural forces. An explanation for this one-sided range of objects (lots of transport
means, only few and empty cases, only one eventual cabin part) might be that other piles with other
types of goods, once possibly stored nearby, have been lost to the sea, already.
>>> Seemingly, chicken wire was used to bundle some of the equipment found – this could
indicate that it either was stored here bundled – or possibly collected and bundled later for a further
transport, which then did not take place (for instance in soviet times) ?
>>> The whole set of materials is clearly exposed to the forces of the sea, even with moderate
swell, and even more so to abrasion by ice pressed up the beach from one side and by rock fall and
land slides from the steep slope above. With the situation of the site as we found it, it is hard to
imagine that it can survive maybe even just one more year – and it is even more difficult to
imagine how it could have survived the last 110 years, if this should be (a part of) Kane Lodge in
its original position, given the clear impacts visible there by the mentioned natural forces.
>>> At the same time, the site does not give the impression of the materials having been placed
there only during the last years.
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In view of these puzzling aspects, we used some of our very limited time to scale the steep slope
above the beach site in order to check whether on the height above it (estimate: 50 m up) we could
find any traces of human activity, but could not find any in a perimeter of about 200x100 m of
flatter grounds above the site. Therefore, our suspicion that the materials had fallen down from
higher above, with Kane Lodge possibly having been situated originally up there, seems not to be
true.
Illustrasjon 10: A walrus skull in the mud of the beach just next to the southern sledge pile. Its foremost part (right)
with the sockets of the tusks is chopped off and gone - typical for hunters wanting to secure quickly the ivory of the
tusks.
Illustrasjon 11: A carefully rounded and polished wooden part with some leather remains and a strong rope
connecting it to the big sledge in the north of the site - maybe used for the siberian ponies of the Baldwin-Ziegler
expeditions, when pulling such heavy sledges ? The sledge itself has trapped and accumulated some beach material
pushed up by the waves, partly covering and protecting it, until further beach erosion may undermine the whole sledge.
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Illustrasjon 12: With very little time for checking the site and not wanting to disturb its temporary stability by
moving its parts prior to a more careful excavation, I could find only one inscription on the whole site. Unfortunately, it
is so bleached out, that I do not even manage to determine whether these are latin or kyrillic letters (the A being similar
in both).
As spontaneous hypotheses for this contradictory situation, I can
imagine the following:
>>> Not Kane Lodge, but a depot from another expedition of the pioneer era: Though being in
a position which matches the vague informations available to me about Kane Lodge, it is thinkable
that this is a different depot from the pioneer days. This would explain the absence of the expected
cabin and thereby, also no space for it would be needed, which is definitely lacking here. However,
here the question still remains open, how these materials could survive laying in this extremely
exposed position over a long period.
>>> Materials are from Kane Lodge, but moved to this position at a later time. It is thinkable
that Kane Lodge was visited by others, who either had use for the materials or wanted to bring them
elsewhere (for instance to a collection or museum), anywhen between 1905 and today, who then
relocated the material to this beach for a soon after planned transport, which never took place.
While this idea might explain to some extent the limited quantity of materials and the exposed
location together with the lack of space for a cabin, it seems insufficient to explain how these
materials could survive many years (as their situation seems to suggest) in this exposed location.
>>> Considerable change of local landscape due to natural erosion. This assumes that this
indeed is Kane Lodge in its original position (or another depot from the pioneer era), but that the
landscape has experienced considerable changes since 1901. This would require especially a
considerable loss of low land area above sea level due to sea erosion (waves, ice movements), as the
Baldwin Ziegler expedition is unlikely to have set up such an important depot and a cabin right on a
beach where it is directly endangered by the forces of sea. Therefore, for this theory, a loss of at
least 10 m in depth of lowland would have to be anticipated due to shoreline erosion, most likely
even more. The existence of a narrow beach zone, and sea floor visible from the zodiac just before
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landing suggests that the vertical profile does not continue equally steep under water level as the
slope above. The channel reaches a depth of 200 m just a few hundred metres from the shore line,
which speaks for an on average fairly steep slope also under water and the official sea chart gives
no information about the descent of the profile closer to shore. However and without further
information available about the sea floor off the shore, for instance due to erosion-resistant dolerite
layers typical for Franz Josef Land both above and below the water line, a submarine terrace with
shallower water close to the shore is still thinkable, and thereby an erosion of former lowland above
the sea surface, as well, or also a submarine landslide. In addition, a minor part of former flat land
might have been buried by later rock fall and avalanche remains, coming from the slope and rock
faces above the site, covering parts of the materials of a Kane Lodge depot possibly under them.
Such changes of the local landscape could explain today´s lack of suitable safe and flat land for a
depot and a cabin, which one should expect to be chosen by the Baldwin-Ziegler expedition as the
location for a valuable cache – and even more so in view of Baldwin´s high-flying further ideas
about a future use of the cabin, which would make the choice of a seemingly safe place even more
expectable. The site, as it is now, certainly would not have fulfilled such criteria for the expedition
in 1901.
If the lowland was considerably wider in 1901 and the findings are the remains of Kane Lodge, I
assume that they represent only the last surviving parts of a more extensive and complex historic
site, which mostly has been lost to the sea, with only the sledges and canvas boat(s) surviving,
which probably had been piled up quite close to the scree slope. The cabin (built up already or just
the prefabricated elements for it stapled on shore) may have been further out on land and then
washed away, with the last surviving construction element washed into the sledge storage area.
Such a loss of area would explain also the survival of mostly transport means: if the stored items
were sorted and piled accordingly at Kane Lodge, the spare sledges and boats may have been stored
close to the slope (thereby surviving longest), while other piles of other items stored further out (as
well as the cabin), became victims of sea erosion earlier. Similar losses of artefacts due to sea
erosion over the last 100 years can be observed in places like Alger Island (Camp Ziegler) or on
Cape Flora, as well.
Illustrasjon 13: The southern pile of sledges, seen from northwest. To its left the remains of a wooden barrel, fallen into its
pieces and almost completely hidden in the gravel a thick bamboo stick. Note the gravel accumulated to the left between the piles of
materials. At the moment, this extra gravel shelters and stabilizes partly the artefacts. However, this will not help against further
beach erosion, which will undermine the historic remains gradually and destroy them finally. If this here is Kane Lodge, most likely
most of its materials has been lost to this beach erosion, already and only the interesting final remains could still be rescued.
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Illustrasjon 14: Detail of what might be a light canvas kayak or canoe: damage probably caused by the sea to the
canvas allows a view on parts of the wooden construction underneath. These assumed boats are probably of high
historic value, but also fragile, requiring a careful excavation and a careful transport and storage.
Actions which seem to be necessary:
Normally, I am a strong advocate of leaving historic material in their original location, where they
have survived more than 100 years (which is not the case for many museums and collections !) and
where they can give visitors authentic inspiration and scientists further informations without
destroying their context. However, this makes little sense in this case. The site, as we found it,
seems to be directly threatened mainly by the forces of sea and sea ice, but also by further rock fall,
within a very close future. If these items are left in their place, much of them might be lost within a
year.
Most valuable is/are probably the canvas boat(s) (if correctly identified as such), as I know of no
other such vessel at least in Franz Josef Land, which has survived from the pioneer days. These are
at the same time the most vulnerable of the found objects, so their rescue has to be done with great
care, as well as their subsequent storage.
Just relocating the material to a nearby place does not seem to be an appropriate option: the local
context on the original site (whatever of it is left, in view of the massive natural impacts) has to be
destroyed for this, nevertheless, and a saver location further up from the shore line on flatter terrain
is available only in about 2 km distance further to the north. Moreover, some of the objects,
especially the canvas-covered structure (boat ?) are currently stabilized by the beach materials
washed in and around them. They require a very cautious excavation for avoiding damage and
without this stabilisation by surrounding ground, they can be expected to be torn in pieces by wind
etc. in short time. A local reconstruction of this chaotic site in a nearby locality is therefore hardly
possible and of doubtful help for the objects.
In my opinion, the objects have to be excavated carefully to avoid damages and then brought to a
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museum or at least a safe store on the mainland (alternatively to a safe storage in Tikhaya for a
future national park center there ?). This requires a stable way of packing and a vessel or a
helicopter with sufficient storage space inside, as these fragile objects can hardly survive a sea
transport as unprotected deck load. If no such transport is immediately available, the objects should
be relocated to a safer position (about 2 km further north) and stored there on shore in such a way,
that they cannot be destroyed by forces of nature (wind, polar bears, fox) during this intermediate
improvised storage. Care should also be taken that they cannot freeze to the ground with their most
fragile parts (canvas, etc.) in such a storage due to intruding snow and humidity, as this would make
their later pick-up more risky.
Original ground surface: Under a careful, stepwise excavation of the artefacts, with
documentation of each step by photo and enumeration of each item, an interesting question would
be to find out on what kind of ground the depot was originally placed: should remains of a
vegetation cover or fine soil appear somewhere in or under the current surface of beach material,
this could be a physical indication for an earlier larger extent of a lowland, sheltered above/behind a
former beach zone further out, on which the depot originally may have been placed. Most likely,
such eventual original ground surface remains may be found right at the bottom of the scree slope,
possibly also under its last bigger stones.
Illustrasjon 15: Knitted textile object - the mosses in its vicinity indicate that it lays here since quite a time, at the
northern edge of the historic site.
Illustrasjon 16: Fragile metal object, probably the rim of a can, in the tidal zone at the northern edge of the historic
site: how long will such endangered objects survive the beach erosion ?
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Remains of „Kane Lodge“ found on Greely Island, Franz Josef Land ?

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