[ oltrecasello ] 3

Transcription

[ oltrecasello ] 3

[ O LT R E C A S E L L O ]
beyond the tollgate
T r i este l i sert
GUIDES
BY AUTOVIE VENETE
3
Autovie Venete
0432 925111 - 040 3189235
www.autovie.it
Design and implementation: © Echo Comunicazione d’Impresa Milano
info@echocom.it - www.echocom.it
Editorial coordination: Alessia Spigariol
Graphics design: Lorenzo Paolo Sdraffa
Interactive english version: Altrementi Adv
Illustrations: Enrico Gisana
Translations: Rossella Mainardis/RB
First issue: November 2014
In consideration of the particular characteristics of the Internet, the publisher
shall not be held responsible for any changes of addresses and contents of
the sites mentioned herein.
Editors:
Mara Bon (Food, Wine and Typical produce, Lunches and dinners, Shopping)
is a journalist, with a passion for art and food. She has published several
articles on the culture of food and wine for daily, weekly, monthly and field
guide magazines and has edited studies of social-economic surveys, tourist marketing and geographical analysis for various boards.
Christian Seu (The Land, Historical and artistic routes) is a freelance journalist, ANSA correspondent for Gorizia Province and collaborates with daily
newspaper Messagero Veneto.
He has been Press officer in Gorizia and communications manager of numerous cultural events in the capital town of this area. In the past, he collaborated with the daily newspaper Il Piccolo and Radio Gorizia 1 and is coowner of the communications Studio Area12.
We thank Turismo FVG and Autovie Venete Press Office for their collaboration.
All photos in this Guide are courtesy of Turismo FVG Archives, except those
on pages 72-73, 87, 103, which are courtesy of Autovie Venete archives.
Information office Trieste Turismo FVG:
Infopoint FVG
Piazza Orologio 1, angolo Piazza Unità d’Italia
34121 Trieste
Tel. +39 040 3478312 / Fax +39 040 3478320
info.trieste@turismo.fvg.it
OLTRECASELLO / TRIESTE LISERT
[ i n de x ]
1 .T H E L A N D
C E N T R A L E U R O P E A N D C U LT U R E
SOME HISTORY
WATER AND ROCKS
2. HISTORY AND ART
I T IN E R A R I E S
D U IN O
FALESIE NATURAL RESERVE
DUINO CASTLE
GRIGNANO
MIRAMARE CASTLE
TRIESTE
FARO DELLA VITTORIA
P I A Z Z A U N I T À D ’ I T A L I A and L E R I V E
SAN GIUSTO CATHEDRAL
THE SYNAGOGUE
SAN SPIRIDIONE TEMPLE
IL BORGO TERESIANO
T R I E S T E A N D I T S C af é s
OPICINA TRAMWAY
VIALE XX SETTEMBRE
RISIERA DI SAN SABBA
FOIBA DI BASOVIZZA
M U S E O R E V O LT E L L A
MUSEO FERROVIARIO
BARCOLA PROMENADE
/ 4 /
INDEX
MUGGIA
il borgo
C A S T E L L O D I M uggia
3 . F O O D , W IN E A N D T Y P I C A L P R O D U C E
C O S M O P O L I TA N C U I S I N E , P O R T O F D I V E R S E C U LT U R E S
WINES WITH LAND AND SEA BOUQUETS
DISCOVERING TYPICAL PRODUCE
4 . L U N C H E S A N D D INN E R S
SAVOGNA D’ISONZO
TRATTORIA LOKANDA DEVETAK
DOBERDÒ DEL LAGO
H otel R ist O rant E P ahor
D U IN O - A U R I S IN A
A lla D ama B ianca
A griturismo A l P escaturismo
G ran O steria T re N oci
T rattoria S ardoc
L e T orri di S livia
S G O NI C O
R istorante S avron
E noteca S gonico
M O N R U P IN O
H otel R istorante K rizman
/ 5 /
TRIESTE
B uffet da P epi
B uffet l ’ A pprodo
R istorante B agutta T riestino
B uffet B irreria da R udy ( S paten )
B uffet da S iora R osa
V ecio B uffet M arascutti 1 9 1 4
T rattoria N erodiseppia
A ntipastoteca di mare « A lla V oliga »
O steria da M arino
O steria A i M aestri
B ar T rattoria « A l G uanaco »
H ostaria ai 3 M agnoni
A ntica T rattoria S uban
R istorante S cabar
A griturismo G rgic I gor
mugg i a
T rattoria R isorta
O steria de T oni
5 . S hopp i n g
D U IN O - A U R I S IN A
C antina Z idarich
A zienda A gricola S kerk
A zienda agricola K ante
A zienda agricola Radovic di N evo e F lavia R adovic
A zienda agricola A ntonic
/ 6 /
INDEX
S G O NI C O
A rt H rovatin
K a j zer M armi
fattoria carsica ba j ta di skerl j slavko e c .
A zienda agrituristica M ilic
TRIESTE
S alumeria S artori
A limentazione B M
salumare
Q ui gatta ci cova
C aff è V atta
V idali E rik
R osso di ferro
I l G iulia
L e T orri d ’ E uropa
MUGGIA
P asticceria T riestina U lcigrai
B irra artigianale C ampagnolo
M ontedoro F ree T ime
SEZANA
V inakras
/ 7 /
Dear Client,
The motorway you are driving on crosses two Regions; their industrious inhabitants have branded themselves with creativity, entrepreneurship, dynamic spirit, and availability to trade with other
markets and this route contributes towards reciprocal market ease
of access.
In the past these lands lived through the emigration of thousands
of people heading to other countries and continents but today our
motorway sees men and women coming to search for work in
our country. Road transport has become the most used means of
transport since the post-war years and motorways are essential to
ease the flow of people and goods. Analyses of these flows allow
us to make interesting quantitative forecasts as well as important
sociological evaluations. They show that travellers’ profiles, destinations and reasons for travelling have changed over the years.
In the same way, markets impose increasingly competitive demands
on commercial carriers to deliver as many products as possible
in the shortest possible time. Often, when we overtake trucks and
glance at their number plates, it is hard to recognise their origins,
proving that current travel scopes and distances inconceivable a few
years ago are now totally possible. Southbound goods and people
from Eastern and Central Europe travel along this motorway, thus
significantly increasing flows. We have therefore allocated massive
resources to technological improvements aimed at safe travel.
The safety of travellers on Autovie Venete motorways is a quality standard of utmost importance and the services offered to our
clients are continuously being evaluated and improved. However,
/ 8 /
foreword
we have achieved this result also thanks to the collaboration of
our clients. Rest is essential to safe travelling and even a short stop
may often avoid the risk of fatigue or may simply break the tension
after hours behind the steering wheel.
These breaks are an integral part of our journey and our wish is
that you enjoy this aspect of your travelling. Our motorway, which
starts in Mestre in the Veneto region, and after a few kilometres
winds through Friuli right up to Trieste, on the eastern border of
our country, crosses places of great interest.
We have compiled this Guide to highlight the history, culture, art
and produce of our regions. It provides short itineraries near the
tollgates where you can enjoy a break surrounded by beauties that
can only be imagined or fleetingly glimpsed while driving along the
motorway. I hope that you partake of short yet stimulating itineraries to rest and relax and then peacefully set off again taking with
you the memories of having encountered hospitable people, tasted
unique flavours and visited unforgettable places.
I hope that this Guide will become your indispensable travel companion and will remind you of our heritage, culture and the North
Eastern corner of Italy.
E m i l i o T erp i n
P res i de n t of A utov i e V e n ete
/ 9 /
The editorial project Oltrecasello arises from a mere thought: we spend long
hours on the motorway to reach workplaces, people and places. Our trips
may be long or short. In the past, these
were often necessities rather than opportunities.
[ gu i d E T o the gu i D E ]
Deep in our own thoughts, focussed on
our driving and our objective or destination, plugged into earphones and
Bluetooth, distracted by music and
news broadcasts, talking to fellow passengers, worried about the traffic and
the delay that constantly persists, we
drive on. We go on without being aware
of what we are driving past, without the
curiosity of understanding, admiring
and getting to know more.
/ 10 /
guid E T o the gui D E
The Guides Oltrecasello by Autovie Venete wish to characterise our trips in a different way by leading us, through
brief stops, on the discovery of short yet stimulating naturalistic, historical, artistic, wine and food itineraries, all
nearby the toll gates along the Venezia-Trieste motorway.
These Guides are not meant to interrupt the journey but
to make our trip an experience, by allowing ourselves the
pleasure of a break, open to the surrounding beauty and
to reach our destinations enriched by new experiences
and knowledge.
A L L D I S TA N C E S A N D T I M E S A R E C A L C U L AT E D F R O M
M O N F A L C O N E E S T - T R I E S T E L I S E R T T O L L G AT E S .
E XI T S D U IN O A N D S I S T IN A A R E A F T E R T H I S T O L L G A T E .
/ 11 /
AUTOSTRADA a4
T oll G ate M O N F A L C O N E E S T
TRIESTE LISERT
q rcode / G oogle maps
/ 12 /
[ T ollgate mo n falco n e est
tr i este l i sert ]
[ du i n o ]
[ s i st i a n a ]
[ sgo n i co ]
[ borgo grotta
g i ga n te ]
[ gr i g n a n o ]
[ m i ramare ]
[ se Ž a n a ]
[ basov i zza ]
[ tr i este ]
[ mugg i a ]
© autovie venete
/ 13 /
Frontline history flowed through Trieste, a
city nestled between the Karst plateau and
the Adriatic Sea, in the middle of Europe.
From the Romans to the Serenissima, up
to Empress Maria Theresa’s revolutionary
changes, which contributed to making it a
great Julian capital, devoting it to freedom
of religion and residence. Then, the twentieth century disputes over Trieste and Trieste being eventually declared Italian.
1[THE LAND]
Coincidences have favoured the creation
of a cultural fabric that is unique in the
world. A melting pot that has seen important poets such as Svevo, Saba and Joyce,
meet and debate in the elegant cafés
where it is still possible to taste a steaming hot cup of precious mixtures coming
from the many coffee roasting plants in
the city.
/ 14 / BACK to INDEX /
[THE KARST IN AUTUMN]
P H O T O ANJ A C O P
CENTRAL EUROPE
AND CULTURE
Trieste is the last northern stop in the Mediterranean and is
thus a natural and privileged marine landing in the vast Central
European area. The cosmopolitan vocation of Trieste lies perhaps in this unique geographical alchemy, crossway of cultures,
people and worship. A city voted to integration, fertile ground
for arts and science, literature and technology, protagonist of
the events that characterised the early twentieth century. It is
impossible not to be overwhelmed by the atmospheres of the
cafés evoking Hapsburg splendour or by the enchanting walks
along the Rive looking onto the Adriatic.
Yet, history has frequently assigned Trieste the role of supporting actress, constrained between the Serenissima and the
House of Hapsburg, between the Patriarchy of Aquileia and
the County of
Gorizia. A city
with three thousand inhabitants
in the eighteenth
century
when
Maria Theresa
of Austria, illuminated and beloved sovereign, contributed to
revolutionising the urban and architectural layout by demolishing walls, enlarging the port and amalgamating an area in the
place of the salt mines. She welcomed foreigners and granted
them freedom of residence and, above all, of worship and this
was a determining factor for the growth of the city that was to
become the Julian capital during the twentieth century.
« Cosmopolitan City, crossway for
cultures, people and worship »
1.LAND
Synagogues flourished in Trieste and the Hebrew community
became one of the largest and most important in Europe. At
the same time, the city welcomed orthodox worship following the schism between Greeks and Illyrians that would lead
to the construction of the splendid Temple di San Spyridon,
with its light blue domes characterising the city skyline. The
city thus eventually and indisputably fascinated those living
in the centre of the Empire, beckoning them to the shores
of the Adriatic by cultural fervour and by unique landscape
scenarios.
« Twentieth Century history swept through here »
At the onset of the last century, Trieste consisted of more
than 250 thousand inhabitants: among these, Italo Svevo
and Umberto Saba who were actually born in the city.
James Joyce, who was enchanted by the inns, cafes and
sea, spent almost ten years of his life between the Rive and
San Giusto. Political events and two World Wars, which
ultimately returned Trieste to Italy in 1954, have not mined
its invincible cultural verve: if once it was Rilke, Joyce
and Trubar, nowadays it is Claudio Magris, PaoloRumiz,
SusannaTamarro and Boris Pahor who are the spokespeople
for Trieste in the world. The city has also been a cradle for
scientists like Margherita Hack, great sportsmen like Nereo
Rocco, Cesare Maldini, Nino Benvenuti, Tiberio Mitri and,
more recently, Margherita Granbassi and Tanja Romano.
SOME HISTORY
The area around Trieste has been inhabited for at least
50 thousand years and settlements started to exploit the
caves in the Karst hinterland as far back as the Neolithic
era. The origins of the city of Tergeste are still controversial: the Greek historian Strabone attributes the foundation to the Carnic people, although the finding of some
relics and artefacts would strengthen the hypothesis that
it was paleoVenetian populations
who
first settled on
the
Adriatic
shore, as witnessed by the
Venetian roots of the name itself. Conquered by the Romans after the battles between Istrians and Celts, it first
becomes a Latin colony and then a municipality, a crucial
intersection for trade with Pannonia: Tergeste reached its
peak of splendour under Trajan, before the decline coinciding with the end of the Western Roman Empire. In the
hands of mostly German bishops, Trieste sides with the
Patriarchy of Aquileia and the County of Gorizia against
the Serenissima in 1289. The treaty between the Doge
and the Patriarch does not stop the lootings and attacks
on the Julian capital, which eventually signs a deed of
devotion to Austria in 1382.
« Tergeste reaches its highest
splendour under Trajan’s rule »
1.LAND
[TRIESTE. PONTE ROSSO. JAMES JOYCE STATUE]
P H O T O M A U R IZIO VA L D EMA R IN
« Part of the Empire up
to the Great war »
The turning point for Trieste came in 1740, with Maria
Theresa of Hapsburg, who significantly contributed to
the urbanistic revolution and to the rise of the new city
thanks to the establishment of the free port (it had been
the wish of emperor Charles VI twenty one years before),
thus significantly boosting the city’s economy.
The French occupied Trieste three times between 1797
and 1813 before becoming, together with Ljubljana, capital of the Illyrian Provinces. This status was to last only
a year with Austria taking the city into its own jurisdiction and denying municipal autonomy. Trieste remained
part of the Empire until World War I and became Italian in
1918. In 1945, it was occupied by Yugoslavian troops for
40 days as well as by the Anglo-Americans and it was then
divided into two zones. Two years later, the U.N. decided
to establish the Free Territory of Trieste. In 1954, the city
was split and shared between Yugoslavia and the Allied
Forces, who handed the city over to the Italians for the
second time.
1.LAND
B E T W E E N WAT E R A N D R O C K S
The Karst eases into the Adriatic and Trieste elegantly lies
between the plateau and the sea. Whipped by the bora
wind and kissed by the breeze, the province of Trieste
embraces stretches of Karstic rock and Mediterranean
scrub, beaches with fine sand and shores of smooth pebbles in just 212 square kilometres (making it the smallest
Italian province), Trieste does not conceal its nature as a
sea town. The Riviera, especially the seafront in Barcola,
is frequented even in colder weather and it is not unusual
to see some brave locals in the Adriatic waters in winter.
Before reaching Trieste it is worth stopping to admire the
Falesie Reserve in Duino, where pine and hornbeam woods
wind their way from the plateau down to the coast. Sheer
coastal panoramas characterise the coastline
from Sistiana to
Grignano and
heading
towards the hinterland it is not
unusual to encounter Karstic phenomena such as doline
sinkholes and caves like the most renowned Grotta Gigante (Giant Cave). It is one of the biggest caves open to
tourism in Europe and certainly the cave with the largest
natural hall in the world with a height of 98 metres, length
167.6 and width 76.3 metres.
« Stretches of Karstic rock,
Mediterranean scrub, beaches
of fine sand »
The Falesie Cliffs in Duino and the
Karst cavities, the cafés downtown,
the masterpieces in Revoltella, the
Greek Temple of San Spyridon and
the Synagogue: Trieste, a multicultural, multifaceted, multi-coloured city,
a symbol of the mingling of cultures,
landscapes and lifestyles, is the ideal location to spend some hours in a
2[HISTORY AND
A R T I T INI R A R I E S ]
modern yesteryear setting: from the
historical cinemas and theatres to the
places of worship, past the Rive and
superb Piazza Unità, the biggest seafacing square in Europe.
Walks along the shore in Barcola, a
steaming cup in one of the downtown
cafes, a ride on the Opicina tramway
and a visit to Miramare Castle are all
popular activities.
[ trieste . faro della vittoria lighthouse ]
PH O T O marco milani
[ D U IN O ]
FALESIE NATURAL
ReSERVe
U N S P O I LT N AT U R E
B E T W E E N T H E A D R I AT I C
AND THE KARST
Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert
7 km / 9 min
Information
Comune di Duino-Aurisina
Via Aurisina, 102
34011 Duino-Aurisina
Tel. +39 040 2017111
www.comune.duino-aurisina.ts.it
protocollo@comune.duino-aurisina.ts.it
2.HISTORY AND ART ITINIRARIES
One hundred and seven hectares, of which sixty-three on
the sea, surrounded by the high and steep limestone coast,
a strip of the characteristic Karst plateau and the Adriatic
Sea. The Falesie Natural Reserve in Duino stretches along
Trieste coast, where central European flora and fauna
yield to the Mediterranean environment, with the Karst
marking the landscape between Alpine and Illyrian morphology.
« Hiking lovers can go through
woods of pine, hornbeam and holm trees »
The most appreciated sights offered to visitors are the
very high cliffs, reaching a height of 90 metres: this is
a highly fossiliferous limestone coast of the Cretaceous
Age, characterised by the whiteness of the precipice walls
overhanging the sea in the reserve, officially established
by a Regional Law in 1996.
The mingling of biological domains contributes decisively
to the variety of fauna and flora: hiking lovers can enter
into woods of black hornbeam, holm, canine cherry, ash,
hop hornbeam and maple, whereas the upper part of the
Reserve is characterised by black pine, planted by man
many a century ago.
A short distance from the overhanging cliffs is the only
place in the world where we find the Karstic Centaurea or
fleur-de-lis of the Karst, a herbaceous plant with a characteristic violet coloured flower.
Fauna is also of remarkable interest: we can admire more
than one hundred and fifty bird species in the park, including the peregrine falcon, short-listed as an endangered
animal. In the wood, with a bit of luck, we may see squirrels and small
rodents. Proliferous rocks in
close proximity to the cliffs
create a natural
habitat for several species of reptiles: the horned viper, the wall lizard,
the green whip snake and even the blue-throated keeled
lizard, a large dark brown lizard with black spots.
The blue rock thrush, with its unmistakeable blue-grey
feathers also nests here.
« Natural habitat of several
bird species »
[FALESIE. AERIAL VIEW]
P H O T O M A R CO MIL A NI
R I L K E T ra i l
The superb setting of the Reserve inspired the Prague-born poet
Rainer Maria Rilke, who has given the name to the trail that winds
along the cliffs for 1700 metres, joining Duino to Sistiana. The trail,
which is constantly on level ground, is easy for anyone to cover:
opened in 1987, after years of neglect, it belongs to Alessandro della
Torre e Tasso, descendant of the Thurn und Taxis princes, who had
hosted Rilke.
Here the poet lived for many months in 1912, and was influenced by
that very enchanting scenario to compose his Duino Elegies. The trail
unravels from State Road 14, near the United World College of the
Adriatic and winds its way down to the Tourist office in Sistiana.
[ R I L K E tra i l ]
PH O T O AN JA CO P
D U IN O C A S T le
NOBLE ABODE FOR RILKE,
D’ANNUNZIO AND STRAUSS
5.7 km / 6 min
Information
Times
Castello di Duino
Via Castello di Duino, 32
Tel. +39 040 208120
Fax +39 040 208022
www.castellodiduino.it
info@castellodiduino.it
visite@castellodiduino.it
Closed Tuesdays
Autumn-winter: 9.30-16.00
Spring-summer: 9.30-17.30
Many a distinguished guest including Mark Twain, Paul
Valéry, and Rainer Maria Rilke have been guests in this
castle. It has a breath-taking view from a sheer cliff overlooking the blue of the Adriatic Sea.
Around the magnificent Castle, currently residence of the
princes Torre and Tasso rises the town of Duino: a strategic position, dominating the Gulf of Trieste. The manor
was built in 1300, where a Roman military outpost had
stood one thousand years earlier.
From sixteen hundred – after having also played an important political role on the stage of communal communities of the time – it became a humanistic court, privileged
destination for writers, thinkers and artists, who arrived
here frequently
from the end
of the eighteen hundreds,
when countess
Teresa von T h
u r n - H o fe r
und Valsassina
and her daughter Maria von Thurn und Taxis welcomed
into their home Twain, Valéry, Rilke, Johann Strauss,
Hugo von Hofmannsthal, Gabriele D’Annunzio, Princess
Sissi of Austria, Archduke Francis Ferdinand and Franz
Liszt.
The period of the Great War was particularly harsh for
the prestigious building in Duino as it was on the bombing
lines and was practically shelled to the ground.
« Many a distinguished guest:
Twain, Valéry, Rilke
and D’Annunzio »
[DUINO CASTLe]
PH OTO F ABRIC E G AL L INA
The renovation of the Castle took place thanks to Prince
Raimondo, who adamantly and stubbornly set his mind
on reconstructing the castle, appraising the beautiful surrounding park, alternating well-landscaped gardens with
wilder Mediterranean scrub areas.
« Severely ruined during the Great War,
it was reconstructed by Prince Raimondo »
The Castle is inhabited, open to the public and available
for ceremonies and banquets. Fine china and eighteenth
century antique furniture adorn the splendid rooms. Part
of the guesthouse hosts the United World College of the
Adriatic, which allows students from all over Europe to
attend the last two years of high school and then to pursue their studies in the best universities worldwide.
It has recently become possible to visit the bunker constructed in 1943 to accommodate the German Navy. Set
back from the manor, stands 11th century Castel Vecchio,
first home of the Duino nobles. From here, you can enjoy a privileged view of the cliff called the White Lady.
The legend says that a cruel feudal lord killed his wife by
throwing her into the sea but fate carved her white body
into the rock and immortalised her as a cliff.
[GRIGNANO]
MIRAMARe CASTLE
A TIMELESS
RESIDENCE
20.3 km / 20 min
Information
Times
Museo storico and
Parco del Castello di Miramare
Viale Miramare
34014 Grignano
Tel.: +39 040 224143
www.castello-miramare.it
info@castello-miramare.it
Castle: every day of the year, 9.00-19.00
Park: from April to August, 8.00-19.00
Maximilian of Hapsburg personally chose, the plot of land
at the tip of the promontory of Grignano to build his home
in 1855. He was inspired by the Spanish castles overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, hence mirar el mar, meaning gazing at the sea in Spanish, therefore Miramare.
The beautiful
neo - medieval
palace, located
just six kilometres from Trieste, is today
one of the most
visited State owned historic homes of its kind in Italy and
very popular with tourists who arrive in the Regional
capital. Miramare Castle designed by Viennese architect
Carl Junker became the home of Archduke of Austria
(and later Emperor of Mexico) and his wife Charlotte of
Belgium in 1860. They lived in the small building called
Castelletto situated inside the Park while their home was
being built. That same small building set in the gardens
was to become Charlotte’s prison when struck by mental
insanity after her husband’s death (killed by Republicans
in Querètero, Mexico in 1867) she was locked up there.
Strongly influenced by romantic sensitivity, Junker designed a house that appears – now as then – an elegant
retelling of a medieval fortress, with ‘white towers’ which
had also inspired Carducci.
The residence boasts over twenty rooms, nowadays lar-
« The home of Maximilian of
Hapsburg and Charlotte of Belgium »
[MIRAMARE CASTLe]
PH O T O M ARC O M IL ANI
« Attractive rooms, including the throne hall
and the reconstruction of a ship »
gely used as a museum: the rooms preserve the furnishing
of the time, allowing visitors to move about in Maximilian’s, Charlotte’s and their guests’ rooms.
One of the archduke’s rooms is the most evocative in the
entire building, created and inspired by the stern of the
frigate Novara, on which the noble Hapsburg had sailed
when he served in the Navy as rear admiral. The recently
restored Throne room can also be visited and is the largest room in the Castle: ten meters high with a wooden
truss ceiling that was intended to praise Emperor Maximilian of Mexico.
The Castle is surrounded by a breath-taking natural setting as well as by the sea and the wonderful park stretching
in majestic protection of this uncontaminated spot. There
are greenhouses, sculptures and rare botanic species in
this garden that is one of the most characteristic in Central Europe. The landscaping of the park started at the
same time as the building of the Castle and was supervised by Maximilian himself. He often brought plants from
his journeys, especially from Mexico.
[ tr i este ]
faro della v i ttor i a
S H I N E and R E M E M B E R
T H E D E A D AT S E A
23.8 km / 21 min
Information
Times
Faro della Vittoria
Strada del Friuli, 141
34136 Trieste
Tel./Fax +39 040 410461
From April to second Sunday in October:
Saturday and Sunday, 15.00-19.00
Barcolana Regatta, i.e. second Saturday
and Sunday in October, 9.30-17.30
Built to commemorate the sailors who died in the First
World War, the Victory Lighthouse is 67.85 meters high
and guides navigation in the Gulf of Trieste. The idea of
the tower came from Trieste architect Arduino Berlam,
who had started designing it in 1918, just as the war ended. Poggio Gretta was chosen for the construction of the
lighthouse as it overlooks Trieste bay at 60 meters above
sea level.
The first stone
was laid in
1923 and the
inauguration
took place on
May 24 th four
years later, in the presence of King Vittorio Emanuele III.
The structure has an estimated weight of 8,000 tons and
is built with over 1500 cubic meters of Istrian and Karst
stone. On the top of the dome there is a copper statue
representing the Winged Victory, which weighs more
than seven tons. Below is the sculpture of the unknown
sailor made by Giovanni Mayer and the anchor of the Audace destroyer ship, the first Italian ship to enter the Port
of Trieste on 3 rd November,1918.
On a memorial stone, we read the evocative inscription:
«Shine and remember the dead at sea».
« Built to commemorate sailors
who died in the Great War »
P I A Z Z A U NI T À
D’ITALIA And LE RIVE
T he beating heart
of a central
E uropean city
45.9 km / 41 min
Piazza Unità d’Italia is one of the most characteristic
sights in Trieste, a must-see for visitors, tourists and locals
who start or finish their evening walks in this square. You
can perceive the history of our country and of Central Europe in this square. First-time visitors are enchanted and
define it as one of the most beautiful Squares in the world.
It certainly is
the largest European Square
facing the sea.
This
square
is also an intersection of
contemporary historical events. In July 1914, the reflecting waters opposite the Square saw the return of the bodies of Archduke Francis Ferdinand of Austria and his wife,
victims of the attack in Sarajevo that triggered the Great
War. In 1918, at the end of the war, the people of Trieste
welcomed the first Italian troops off the destroyer “Audace” in this very square, which then took on the same
name. The Square was the main venue for the occupation
on 26 th October 1954 that sanctioned the return of Trieste to Italy, until then under administration of the allied
forces.
The layout of the Square, which spreads over an area of
over 12,000 square meters, dates back to 1870 when a
number of buildings converging on Piazza della Borsa
(Stock Exchange Square) were demolished (such as San
Pietro church, which was the original name of the square)
« Theatre of important
historical events »
[TRIESTE. PIAZZA UNITÀ D’ITALIA]
PH O T O M ARC O M IL ANI
or those that blocked the sea view (Teatro Vecchio and
the Prisons). The Square, however, was not completely
devoid of barriers till 1920, when the trees that grew near
the shore were also removed. The final reconstruction
took place in 2001 and included the removal of the asphalt pavement, substituting it with the current sandstone
pavement.
Historical buildings, now headquarters of the governing
bodies of the city and Region, surround the Square. In the
background stands the Town Hall, designed in 1870 by
architect Giuseppe Bruni: the result is a combination of
different architectural styles, with clear German, French
and Venetian influence. The people of Trieste have come
to appreciate it through the years, affectionately calling
the building, Cheba, meaning cage.
Dominating the Square is the curious bell tower, topped
by two statuesque Moors, called Michez and Jachez, who
toll the passing of time every quarter-hour. A similar
group, which adorned one of the entrances to the town
between 1550 and 1770, inspired the two bronze statues.
On the tower, we see copies of the originals, which have
been on exhibition at Castello San Giusto since 2006.
In front of the Town Hall stands the four continents Fountain, built in 1751: it was removed in 1938 to allow Mussolini’s visit to take place in the city, repositioned in 1970
and only in 2001 moved in line with the clock tower.
« Michez and Jachez toll the hours
from the bell tower »
On the left we can see Palazzo Modello (designed in the
same period and by Bruni himself) and Palazzo Stratti,
refurbished in 1939 and later acquired by Assicurazioni
Generali: the historical Caffè degli Specchi (Café of Mirrors) is on the ground floor.
Going towards the Rive, you can see the Government Palace, the most recent building overlooking the Square. It
was built in 1904 and designed as Palace of Lieutenancy
by Emil Artmann, one of the greatest advocates of historicism and a
long-time
a
professor at Vienna University
of Technology.
On the side towards the sea,
we read the plate bearing the 1918 Victory at Sea proclamation. The plaque contains a rather curious mistake.
It actually states that the enemy ships were defeated ‘in
Premuda, on the Piave, in Pola, in Trieste and in Trento’.
It is understood that the last stated town is definitely not
located on the Adriatic coastline…
On the other side of the Square stands Palazzo Pitteri
(perhaps the most elegant building overlooking Piazza
Unità), the eclectic Palazzetto Vanoli and the Palazzo del
Lloyd, built in 1880 by Heinrich von Ferstel, at the time
one of the most famous architects in the Empire. It was
restored in 2006 and is the seat of the Regional government.
« Palazzo Pitteri is perhaps the most
elegant in the square »
[TRIESTE. LE RIVE]
P H O T O A N J A CO P
IL MOLO AUDACE
Built between 1743 and 1751, at the time of Maria Theresa of Austria,
Audace pier stretches for 246 meters onto the sea, separating San
Giusto basin from San Giusto itself. It was built from an initial idea:
in 1740, right in the spot where the pier stands, frigate San Carlo sank
and the wreck was used as foundation for the new port, which at first
was named after the sunken ship. Originally, the pier measured only
95 meters and was later extended by 19 meters (in 1778) and an extra
132 meters in 1861.
It had become a docking site for merchant ships and then for the fast
ships that plied between Trieste, Venice and Dalmatia.
It was renamed in 1918 when the “Audace” destroyer landed Italian
military troops of bersaglieri and carabinieri right there.
At the top of the pier, now used only for fascinating walks, a wind
rose commemorates the 1918 event.
[TRIESTE. MOLO AUDACe]
PH O T O F A BR ICE G A L L INA
SAN GIUSTO MARTIRE
CATHEDRAL
HEART OF
TRIESTE’S
C AT H O L I C I S M
37.3 km / 29 min
Information
Times
Cattedrale di San Giusto Martire
Piazza della Cattedrale, 2
Tel +39 040 309666
34143 Trieste
Week days: 7.30-12.00, 15.00-19.00
Sunday: 8.00-13.00, 15.00-20.00
Built on the hill that gives it its name, San Giusto Cathedral is the result of the union of two pre-existing religious
buildings, one dedicated to St. Mary of the Assumption
(11 th century) and the other to Saint Giusto, which were
in turn built on the ruins of an early Christian chapel. According to tradition, the basilica is located on the ancient
cemetery, where martyr Giusto was buried, after his body
was recovered from the waters of the Adriatic where he
had been sentenced to death by drowning.
« Built on the churches of St. Mary
of the Assumption and San Giusto »
The cathedral, which is one of the symbols of the Regional
Capital, has a gable facade, embellished by a gothic rose
window in Karst stone dating back to the fourteenth century and over the portal, there is a plaque to commemorate the damage to the church during the Austro-British
shelling in 1813. A few cannonballs dating back to the
conflict are still embedded in the wall of the bell tower
that looks like a defence tower and has five bells tolling
the hours daily in a G minor key.
The interior has five asymmetric naves, having semi-circular arches: the right and central naves of the Romanesque church of San Giusto have endured, whilst the apse
is more recent and was frescoed in 1423 by the Friulian
artists Dominic Lu and Domine Antonio Bitetto.
There are only
a few fragments
of the original
frescoes including the fiveelement
San
Giusto Cycle of
the thirteenth century in the side Chapel.
Splendid mosaics decorate the lateral apses: 11-12 th century
works depicting Theotokos (Mother of God) and Pantocrator, flanked by Saints Giusto and Servolo.
« Beautiful mosaics decorate
the side apses »
[ T R I E S T E . C athedral of S an G iusto martyr ]
P H O T O A N J A CO P
THE SYNAGOGUE
A CENTURYOLD LANDMARK
FOR THE JEWISH
COMMUNITY IN TRIESTE
28.9 km / 27 min
Information
Times
The Synagogue
Via San Francesco, 19
Tel. + 39 040 363952
34133 Trieste
For guided or group tours, contact:
Key Tre Viaggi
Via Santa Caterina, 7
34133 Trieste
Tel. + 39 040 6726736/26
Fax +39 040 672673
visitesinagoga@triestebraica.it
Sunday: 10.00-12.00
From Monday to Thursday: 10.00-11.00
(bookings accepted for groups of at least
25 people)
The Jewish community in Trieste has always been particularly large including entrepreneurs but also writers like Svevo,
Saba and Voghera, intellectuals like Giorgio Fano and Teodoro Meyer, founder of the daily newspaper Il Piccolo and
doctors like Edoardo Weiss.
Synagogues were set up in ancient buildings, hosted in the
ghetto that stretched out between Piazza Unità and Piazza
della Borsa. It was there that the Jewish people of Trieste
met for prayers before the monumental synagogue was built
in via San Francesco, opened in 1912 and designed by architects Ruggeri and Arduino Berlam.
The Temple is one of the largest in Europe and does not conceal its Oriental features starting from the facade with its
characteristic rose windows forming the Star of David. The
main prayer room has a rectangular shaped floor and has
three aisles ending with the apse vault, covered by a gilded
mosaic: the entire space is orientated towards a monumental Aròn, embellished by gilded copper doors, supporting a
niche that holds the Tables of the Law.
The structure is framed by a seven-branch bronze candelabra resting on a marble balustrade representing the sheaves,
symbol of the Jewish community in the Julian capital.
The majestic chandeliers highlight the solemn atmosphere
of the Temple: a copper one stands out in the atrium hanging from the stucco ceiling. Nazi troops destroyed the Synagogue during World War II and used the building to deposit
books and works of art. The community’s belongings were
saved from the German fury and hidden secretly inside the
building itself.
TEMPIO DI
SAN SPIRIDIONE
PLACE OF WORSHIP
OF THE SERBIAN
ORTHODOX COMMUNITY
28.1 km / 26 min
Information
Times
Tempio di San Spiridione
Via San Spiridione, 9
34121 Trieste
Closed Sunday afternoon and Monday.
Autumn-winter:
9.00-12.00, 16.00-19.00
Spring-summer:
9.00-12.00, 17.00-20.00
Serbian-Orthodox community
Via Genova, 12
34121 Trieste
Tel. +39 040 631 328
Fax +39 040 347 6296
crsoit@tin.it
White sandstone and mosaics are the elements that characterise the facade of St. Spyridon Temple (actually Holy Trinity and St. Spyridon Thaumaturge), place of worship for the
many Serbian Orthodox in Trieste. The right to celebrate the
orthodox ritual dates back to Maria Theresa’s edicts, in 1750.
The Greek and Illyrian communities shared a church at first
but co e x i s t e n c e became more and more difficult over the
decades. Therefore, the Greek
community built
their own place
of worship on
the Rive and the
Illyrian
community decided to commission a new and more magnificent
church. Carlo Maciachini, an architect from Lombardy, won
a public tender, where seven architects presented their designs. Construction started in 1861 and finished eight years
later, when the new temple opened.
« Designed by Lombard
architect Carlo Maciachini »
[TRIESTE. SAN SPIRIDIONE]
PH OTO MAURIZ IO VAL D E M ARIN
« Magnificent intense
blue domes »
The characteristic intense blue colour of the domes attracts
the viewer from outside the Temple of St. Spyridon. The inside
walls of the church host oil paintings and a wall iconostasis
covered in gilded stucco, with icons decorated in gold, silver
and precious stones, representing mostly the Virgin, Jesus,
the Annunciation and St. Spyridon.
A gold and silver gemmed cross dominates the altar. One of
the treasures worthy of mention is the silver votive lamp in
the entrance hall which was donated in 1722 by Paolo Romanov (future czar Paul I) on his visit to the community in
Trieste.
Strangely, a local metropolitan legend claims that rubbing
your back against one of the walls brings good luck.
IL BORGO TERESIANO
THE NEW CITY
BY MARIA THERESA
OF AUSTRIA
28.7 km / 26 min
Ponte Rosso and piazza della Borsa, the Tergesteo gallery
and Teatro Verdi all portray Hapsburg rigour and geometrical order with the buildings all level. And it is not just by
chance. The most enchanting part of the new city, started
in eighteen hundred, is called after the sovereign who made
projects come true: it was Maria Theresa who started the
urban revolution which was to last over fifty years and gave
Trieste its current look. The borough with its central Grand
Canal was called the Theresian Borough, Borgo Teresiano,
in remembrance of their beloved Empress.
The splendid Ponte Rosso square with the eighteenth century fountain adorned by a little statue of Giovanin (perhaps
from San Giusto aqueduct where the fountain draws its water) and the Ponte Rosso Bridge with the statue of James
Joyce, deserve
a visit. A walkway was built in
2012, between
via della Cassa
di
Risparmio
and via Trento
and dedicated
to Joyce, it was called the Dubliners. Due to an incorrect
measurement, the Joyce passage was initially built too
short, triggering the comical wittiness of the triestini people who called it «Ponte curto» that is “short bridge”.
The Canal Grande was actually only one of four waterways envisaged in the urban revolution wanted by Maria
Theresa. The canal was navigable and was the main dock
« From Canal Grande to Piazza
della Borsa, the new Hapsburg
imprinted Trieste »
for goods heading to the old city for a long time; it once
stretched up to church Sant’Antonio Nuovo but in the thirties, the last part was buried with debris from a series of
demolitions. On the right bank of the canal, in via Rossini,
stands Palazzo Gopcevich, seat of the Museo Teatrale Carlo Schmidl (theatre museum), which documents the history
of art and theatre of the last two hundred years. The building is highly recognisable thanks to the small white and red
tile decorations.
The Stock Exchange Square, east of piazza Unità, is the
centre of business and economy in the city and Palazzo del
Tergesteo, with the characteristic gallery, has hosted the
« Palazzo del Tergesteo,
Stock Exchange since 1842 »
Stock Exchange since 1842. Through the glass tunnel, you
then reach piazza Verdi, where the municipal theatre has
been standing since 1801.
WRITERS AND
TRIESTE
The twentieth century cultural passion made Trieste one of the literary beating hearts of the short century. Italo Svevo, James Joyce,
Umberto Saba have inextricably tied their works to the Julian city,
certainly favoured by a diverse and lively cultural environment.
Joyce lived in Trieste from 1904 to 1915 and then again in 1920, teaching English to local businessmen and drawing inspiration from osterie
(taverns), cafés, cinemas and places of perdition for his Ulysses , written, not by chance, after his return from his experience on the shores
of the Adriatic. A life-sized bronze statue of the Dublin writer was
placed on the bridge in via Roma a few years ago.
Therefore, the city’s famous people are Joyce, Trieste born Aron Hector Schmitz alias Italo Svevo, Umberto Saba, whose real surname was
Poli, and Scipio Slataper, an irredentist dissident who died in Gorizia
on the Podgora.
TRIESTE
A n d Its C A F é S
MEETING PLACES
F or I N T E L L E C T U A L S
AND THINKERS
Trieste is a city of culture, of different religions, of literature, but also of coffee and cafés. If the Julian capital’s
important roasting and trading of the perfumed drink is
renowned, less known is Trieste of historical places frequented in the past by nobles, intellectuals and dames and
nowadays a wise tourist destination.
We can easily state that without its cafés, the cultural life
« Without its cafes, the city’s cultural life would
probably have been less fervent »
in times gone by would have been less fervent. Joyce, Saba
and Svevo frequented these places regularly, often drawing inspiration for their works. The most ancient café in
Trieste is the Tommaseo, opened in 1830 and renovated in
1997: the original furnishings were imported directly from
Belgium. The café is renowned also for having introduced
ice cream at the beginning of the1900s. Caffè San Marco
was the meeting place of intellectuals like Svevo, Saba and
Giotti but was never officially opened as it was considered
a hideout of irredentist dissidents and thus destroyed by
the World War I bombs in 1914. Then, there is Caffè degli
Specchi, opened in 1839 and situated in Palazzo Stratti, in
the heart of Piazza Unità d’Italia, irresistible refreshment
point for millions of tourists every year, and Caffè Tergesteo, inside the gallery bearing the same name.
T he O P I C IN A T R A M W A Y
A JOURNEY BACK IN TIME,
FROM THE CITY
TO THE KARST
28.8 km / 27 min
Information
Times
Departure station
Piazza Guglielmo Oberdan
34133 Trieste
www.tramdeopcina.it
Departures every 20 minutes,
from 7.00 to 20.00
Opened in 1902, Opicina tramway, named after the town,
is now mainly a tourist attraction that allows you to reach
Trieste city centre from the Karst upland and in particular
from Villa Opicina. The railway, just over five kilometres
from the centre of Trieste and, with gradients reaching 26
percent, reaches an altitude of 329 meters above sea level.
The departure station is located in Piazza Oberdan and the
tram leaves every twenty minutes for Villa Opicina. After
an initial flat land section, a cableway that is unique in Europe hooks, pulls and lowers the wagons at a steady rate.
The tramway was built in late nineteenth century to connect Trieste to Opicina: it opened in 1902 and was upgraded
four years later during the construction of the Transalpine
railway, while in 1928 the drive system rack was replaced
by a cableway,
still in service
today. Currently managed by
Trieste Transport Board, the
tramway
line
was considerably renovated in 2012.
« The tramway built at the end
of XIX century to connect
Trieste to Opicina »
V I A L E XX S E T T E M B R E
T H E AT R E S ,
ICE-CREAM SHOPS,
WA L K S T O T H E « A Q U E D U C T »
27.9 km / 26 min
The people of Trieste call it the «aqueduct» as before the
place name review because the city water supply still runs
under the light coloured paving stone.
Viale XX Settembre is today mostly a pedestrian area. It is
lined by trees, which in the heat of summers grant shade
to the people of
Trieste for the
famous Italian
“passeggiata”
or walk.
This avenue has
countless icecream shops, cultural and entertainment places including
the Eden and Politeama Rossetti theatres. The Politeama,
opened in 1878 and refurbished several times in the last
century, is one of the largest prose theatres in Europe, it
includes the Teatro Stabile del Friuli Venezia Giulia and
can seat up to 1500 people.
A short distance away is Eden Theatre, one of the most
illuminating examples of Liberty Trieste: built between
1906 and 1908 it was largely used both as a theatre and
as a cinema: the cinema has been open since that time.
Aron Hector Schmitz, alias Italo Svevo was born in a stable in today’s Viale XX Settembre, 16 on 19 th December
1861.
« It includes Teatro Eden
and Politeama Rossetti »
RISIERA
DI SAN SABBA
T H E D R A M AT I C
N A Z I D E P O R TAT I O N S
42.3 km / 29 min
Information
Times
Civico Museo della Risiera di San Sabba
- Monumento Nazionale
Via Giovanni Palatucci, 5
34148 Trieste
Tel. +39 040 826202
Fax +39 040 825673
www.risierasansabba.it
risierasansabba@comune.trieste.it
Every day, 9.00-19.00
For bookings:
Tel. +39 040 6754480
Fax +39 040 6754727
serviziodidattico@comune.trieste.it
Lest we forget, a metal plate and a memorial stone remind us of the presence of a smokestack that spiralled out
smoke and ashes. There was a crematorium at Risiera di
San Sabba where the oven once was used to dry rice. It is
estimated that it contributed to eliminating at least three
thousand corpses of men, women and children interned
in the only concentration camp in southern Europe. The
Risiera is today a National Museum, to remember how the
tragedy of the Holocaust involved Italy and specifically
Trieste in the cruellest and most direct manner. When
the Germans turned it into a concentration camp for the
Italian soldiers
captured after
8th September
1943, the Risiera – built in
1913 – was already no longer
in use. Stalag 339 (as it was called) was placed under the
jurisdiction of Odilo Globocnik, one of the founders of
the organisation that supervised the management of Polish lagers. He was sent to the Julian capital to enforce the
anti-partisan and racist policies of the Reich. The Risiera
was first a temporary detention camp for detainees heading to concentration camps in Poland and Germany and
later became a place of detention, torture and elimination
of political opponents and partisans.
April 4 th 1944 saw the first cremations in the oven, built
a few days earlier and the bodies of about seventy people
«The only Nazi lager
in southern Europe »
« The crematorium was blown up
by the Germans in 1945 »
who had been shot the day before near Villa Opicina were
made to disappear. A year later, on April 30 th 1945, the
Germans who, before fleeing, decided to delete some of
the proof of their crimes blew up crematorium and stack.
Eye-accounts of survivors later documented the presence
of the oven.
In 1966, there was call to tender for the restoration of the
Risiera into a National Museum. Architect Romano Boico
designed the renovation of the “death cell” for short-stay
prisoners, the seventeen tiny cells cramming up to eight
people awaiting execution and the four-storey building
with the dormitories for prisoners waiting deportation to
other concentration camps.
The main building, once used as barracks, is now a Museum with a documentary exhibition of the history of the
Risiera displaying documents, photographs, uniforms and
personal belongings. The Sala delle Croci exhibits personal belongings seized from the Jews by the Nazis and
returned to the Jewish community after their recovery in
Carinthia in 2000.
[TRIESTE. RISIERA DI SAN SABBA]
P H O T O archivio museo civico della risiera di san sabba
FOIBA DI BASOVIZZA
IN REMEMBRANCE
O F T H E M AY 1 9 4 5 D E A D
33.5 km / 24 min
In Basovizza on the Karst plateau, a national monument
commemorates the people who were captured, killed
and thrown into the foibe sinkholes in May 1945 by
Tito’s militias and supporters.
According to estimates by some historians, in May and
June 1945 (during the forty-day Yugoslavian occupation of Trieste) the Yugoslav partisans killed and threw
into the Foibe four to five thousand people involved in
fascism, but also democratic and simple citizens.
The Foiba di Basovizza became a National monument in
1992 and has recently been renovated. It was originally
a 260 meters deep mineshaft, abandoned because of
a lack of productivity.
« Yugoslavian partisans killed from
four to five thousand people »
MUSEO REVOLTELL A
T H E B E ST O F I TA L I A N
MODERN ART
28.8 km / 27 min
Information
Times
Museo Revoltella
Via Diaz, 27
34123 Trieste
Tel. +39 040 6754350
Fax +39 040 6754137
www.museorevoltella.it
revoltella@comune.trieste.it
10.00-19.00
Closed Tuesdays
An elegant building at a short walk from the Rive, Museo
Revoltella exhibits one of the most important modern art
collections in the country. the German architect Friedrich
Hitzig designed the building overlooking the once called
piazza Giuseppina (today piazza Venezia) as residence for
Baron Pasquale Revoltella. Built in Renaissance style on
three floors and completed in 1858, it was donated to the
city of Trieste by the Baron, together with all the works of
art and collection of books it contained.
« The palace was donated to the city
by Baron Revoltella »
Palazzo Revoltella became a landmark for young artists
and for artisans, who could practise their passion for
arts and crafts in the former noble residence. Meanwhile,
thanks also to Revoltella’s financial bequest, the institution started the acquisition of important works of art, and
in such large quantities that the exhibition centre needed
to be expanded. In the early years of the twentieth century, the Municipal authority purchased the nearby Palazzo Brunner, but expansion works actually started only in
1963, and were completed only in the nineties.
Palazzo Basevi and Palazzo Brunner were also purchased
together with the palace designed by Hitzig. It is adjacent to the other two buildings and the acquisition thus
enabled a 4000
square metre
exhibition area,
withinstallations that display over three
hundred
and
fifty works of art and sculptures.
Palazzo Revoltella has its original furnishings following
the principles of the Baron’s time, whereas Palazzo Brunner hosts works purchased from 1972 onwards. On the
third floor we find the mid-nineteenth century Italian artists (Fattori, Induno, Palizzi, Morelli); on the fourth floor
works coming from international Exhibitions (De Nittis,
Nono, Ciardi, Trentacoste, Canonica, Bistolfi, Carena,
von Stuck, Zuloaga); the fifth floor has the collections
of Trieste and Italy’s early twentieth century (Marussig,
Bolaffio, Timmel, Dudovich, Casorati, Sironi, Carrà, de
Chirico, Martini) and in a smaller gallery, the artists of the
last fifty years in Friuli Venezia Giulia (Zigaina, Afro, Dino
and Mirko Basaldella, Spacal, Perizi). The sixth floor is
dedicated to the national protagonists of the second half
of the twentieth century.
« Works by De Nittis, Carrà,
de Chirico, Zigaina and Basaldella »
[ MUSEO REVOLTELL A]
P ET R US S I P HO T O PR ESS - U D INE
MUSEO
FERROVIARIO
B AC K TO T H E PA ST
ON LOCOMOTIVES AND TRAMS
29.4 km / 26 min
Information
Times
Museo Ferroviario di Trieste
Via Giulio Cesare, 1
Stazione Campo Marzio
34100 Trieste
Tel. +39 040 3794185
Fax +39 040 312756
www.museoferroviariotrieste.it
Wednesday, Saturday, Sunday,
9.00-13.00
Situated in the ancient station in Campo Marzio, closed
since1960, the Museo Ferroviario (railway museum) in
Trieste was opened in 1984 thanks to the perseverance of
a group of railway enthusiasts, who had joined together
in 1975 to form the Sat (Sezione Appassionati Trasporti
– Transport lovers association). The exhibition allows the
visitor a hands-on experience of fifteen locomotives, some
even dating back to nineteenth century, but also carriages, trams and a German armoured train used in World War
II. Inside, models, photographs and documents, uniforms
of the train operators and the
reconstruction
of the stationmaster’s office.
The Museum is
one of the few
Italian museums dedicated to the railways and is still run
by volunteers of the Dopolavoro Ferroviario association
in Trieste. Since 2004, both the station building in Campo
Marzio (once called stazione di Sant’Andrea) and the collections inside the Museum have been placed under the
supervision of the Friuli Venezia Giulia Heritage Office.
« Managed by volunteers, it is one of
the few museums of its kind in Italy »
BARCOLA
PROMENADE
W here the locals
walk and swim
21.8 km / 19 min
Leaving Miramare Castle behind and heading towards Trieste, we find the promenade in Barcola, favourite destination of the locals for their walks, jogging and sun tanning. The Barcola borough has its origins in Roman times
(Vallicula was the ancient name), when the Riviera was
characterised by spas and wealthy patrician villas. In the
fifties, the view changed radically with the construction
of the complex known as Albergo Americano that buried
a large stretch of the seafront.
The main features of the Riviera are the magnificent pinewoods stretching over 25 thousand square meters and
the legendary Bagni – called «Topolini»: twelve elevated
semi-circular terraces built above cloakrooms, toilets and
showers.
« Barcola dates back to
Roman times »
T he B A R C O L A N A R E G A T T A
Over two hundred thousand spectators, almost two thousand sail
ships, over twenty thousand crews. These are the figures of the Barcolana, the historical international sailing regatta which has been
attracting thousands of enthusiasts to Trieste, every second Sunday
in October since 1969.
An event that is not only sport but also culture and tradition, attracting large numbers of tourists to the city on the days of the event.
The Regatta sails its way around 15 miles, generally starting between
Miramare Castle and the offices of the Società Velica di Barcola e
Grignano (Sailing association) and finishes in front of piazza Unità.
Professionals and amateurs race in the Regatta.
Società Velica di Barcola e Grignano
Viale Miramare, 32
34136 Trieste
Tel. +39 040 411664
Fax +39 040 413838
www.svbg.it
segr@svbg.it
[ T R I E S T E . T he B A R C O L A Na R egatt A ]
PH O T O F A BR ICE G A L L INA
[ M ugg i a ]
i l borgo
LAST STRIP OF ISTRIA
I N I TA LY
45 km / 31 min
The last strip of Istria left in Italy after the London Memorandum and the Osimo Treaty, Muggia is also the
southernmost city in Friuli Venezia Giulia. Overlooking
the sea, it is characterised by a strong Venetian architectural and urban imprint, with typical small buildings
and quaint narrow alleys. It is one of the most beautiful
boroughs in Italy and is dated seventh and sixth century
B.C. Traces of these early settlements and specifically
remains dating back to the Middle Ages are preserved
in the Archaeological Park in Muggia Vecchia (Castrum
Mugiae).
« Strong Venetian architectural
and urban imprint »
Here it is possible to visit and admire the church of Mary
of the Assumption (the only building still standing), a
portion of the city walls, and a stretch of the road running among the ancient dwellings and, in particular, a
two-storey house which was probably a blacksmith’s
shop.
MUGGIA CASTLE
DEFENSIVE PROTECTION
AROUND
THE BOROUGH
46 km / 33 min
Information
Times
Muggia Castle
Calle dei Lauri, 7 - 34015 Muggia
Tel. +39 040 272772
Muggia Castle may be visited on
appointment at the Ufficio Visite of the
Consorzio
Consorzio per la Salvaguardia dei
Castelli Storici del Friuli Venezia Giulia
(Castle protection agency)
Tel. +39 0432 288588
Fax +39 0432 229790
www.consorziocastelli.it
visite@consorziocastelli.it
The first settlement dates back to 1374, when Marquardo Patriarch of Aquileia had a fortified watchtower built
overlooking the sea. A superb residence, Muggia Castle
belongs to sculptor Villi Bossi, who has to be credited
with having restored it. He started in the nineties, whereas for the previous two centuries, it had been stripped of
its stone materials used to build local housing.
The current layout with the walls making a quadrangle
around the central building dates back to 1399, when fortifications were built to protect the borough below. There
is also proof of restoration works carried out by the Serenissima government in 1701.
Muggia Castle
may be visited
on
appointment or twice a
year during the
event «Castelli
aperti
(Open
Castles)».
« The current plan
dates back to 1399 »
THE SYNCHROTRON LIGHT
IN B A S O V I Z Z A
On the Karst plateau, on the AREA Science Park campus, there is
an international research centre for science and industry: Elettra
Sincrotrone in Trieste. Every day, physicists, biologists, chemists,
engineers and experts in other fields work to provide replies to the
most diverse queries on the properties of materials and the sciences
of life. And they do it with rays of light!
Their tools, which make of Elettra a unique centre worldwide, exploit
the power and versatility of the synchrotron light. An electromagnetic radiation of exceptional properties which reveals the structure
and behaviour of atoms and molecules, the properties of materials
and their most effective treatment methods to solve the most urgent
challenges in multiple fields,: pharmacology, medicine, engineering,
nanotechnologies, conservation of cultural heritage.
The synchrotron light is produced from two sources: Elettra, a storage ring that has been functioning since 1995 that gives the research
centre its name (hosted in a large easily recognisable circular building) and FERMI, a “ free electron” laser (or FEL) with characteristics
that are unique in the world and which started operating at the end
of 2010.
Together with the other three FEL operational sources (in Germany,
United States and Japan), FERMI is the latest generation probe available to scientists. It analyses both high-speed (millionth billion a
second) and microscopic (billionth of a metre) phenomena at the same
time, recording in rapid sequence a series of snapshots or photograms
to then make a film of the real ongoing process: from the propagation
of a heat wave to a biological membrane or the action of a catalyser.
[ B A S O V I Z Z A . E L E T T R A S IN C R O T r O N E tr i este ]
PH O T O AR C H IVIO EL ET TR A SINCR O TRONE trieste
Multi-ethnic and varied, the cuisine in Trieste mirrors a cosmopolitan city in a peculiar geopolitical
position with centuries-old history.
Trieste, a seaport set in the Karst
highlands, offers Adriatic dishes together with typical Karst dishes, fish
dishes and meat dishes.
3[TYPICAL FOOD AND
W IN E P R O D U C E ]
The Latin, Venetian, Dalmatian, Istrian
and above all Hapsburg influences reflect on Julian food and wine, together with Slovene, Friulian and Italian
flavours and tastes. Jewish, Greek and
Balkan influences enrich the menu.
The result? A real and proper melting
pot of tastes, aromas and traditions,
inherited from the different communities that have been living side by side
in the city for centuries.
[REFOSCO GRAPES]
PH OTO adriano del fabbro - udine
A COSMOPOLITAN
C U I S IN E , P O R T O F
DIFFERENT CULTURES
The cuisine in Trieste overflows with tastes and flavours
coming from Vienna and the Balkans, crossing Hungary
and Serbia, from faraway seaside countries like Turkey or
Greece, or nearer places like Istria. They reveal the trading and mercantile vocation of this city, which became a
free port in 1719.
Then, the eighteenth century Hapsburg domination
blended the different cultural and gastronomic souls of
Central Europe and the Mediterranean.
Spiced and rustic tastes blend with refined tastes to embody an elegant and refined city, characterised by Art
Nouveau architecture overlooking the sea. Starting mostly in the fifties, the cuisine in Trieste began adding typical
Italian dishes (like pasta, rice and pizza) and international
dishes (like kebab and sushi) before anywhere else in the
Region right from its annexation to Italy (1918),
From breakfast to dinner, Trieste offers a range of rituals and typical products all to be discovered, making it a
unique and original city.
« A Blend of Central European
and Mediterranean flavours »
3.FOOD, WINE AND TYPICAL PRODUCE
Let us start with coffee, emblem of the Trieste culture.
At any time of the day, coffee is a must. Here it is not a
hasty morning routine, nor an occasional daily break, but
a deeply rooted cultural and economic ritual.
From the Hapsburgs docking the first ships laden with
green coffee beans to present times, Trieste has rightly
won the title as the capital city for coffee, with its coffee
importing enterprises, trading
companies, roasting
and processing
mills,
coffee
shops and the
elegant and prestigious ambiences in the splendid historical cafés decorated in style with high ceilings and period
furniture.
In the past, breakfast was with a long or “Turkish” coffee sipped together with the Kaiserschmarren (Emperor’s
sweet frittata, a dainty delicacy widespread all over the
old Austrian-Hungarian Empire).
« Trieste has won the title of
coffee capital »
[CAFFÈ]
PH OTO F ABRIC E G AL L INA
Another typical break in the city life is the mid-morning snack, rebechin, still served in the countless buffets
around the port and the Stock Exchange. Places that are
eateries somewhere between bars, trattoria (diners) and
tavola calda (snack bars), these buffets are a typical kind
of catering in Trieste. The particular climate, the cold, the
bora wind and the dawn-breaking working hours have
favoured the habit of having a snack before lunchtime,
often a boiled pork meat snack, sausages, ribs, pork trotters, testina or tongue, cooked in the big pots under the
counter.
A bread roll with porcina (shoulder), a typical crostino
with hand carved ham served with grated kren (horseradish sauce) and mustard or the rodoleti de persuto (pickled
cucumbers wrapped in ham) are all delicious.
Some traditional
pork-based
snacks are the
luganeghe
de
Viena (Trieste’s
version of the
Frankfurter) or
Cragno (a homemade Karst sausage, slightly smoked and
eaten cooked) and the Kaiserfleisch (smoked pork loin).
« The rebechin ritual is
a typical moment in city life »
An absolute must-try delicacy is Liptauer, cheese of Slovakian origins, on a bread crouton. Also known as cheese
mousse from Hungary, it has been one of the tastiest starters since the times of the Hapsburg Empire. It is a soft
goat-milk ricotta cheese cream and butter or sour cream
blend, mostly served with a generous sprinkle of paprika.
Some versions mix capers, mustard and silver skin onions.
With aperitifs and walks through the city streets, time
« Jota, an ancient soup quintessentially
from Trieste »
hurries by. At lunchtime, the local cuisine offers different
first dishes mostly soups and broths. Hot, highly nutritional and tasty, the soups fight back the whipping gusts
of bora wind with their rich taste.
The jota is quintessentially from Trieste; it has ancient
origins and simple and humble ingredients like beans (the
ancient recipe had the beans with the ocio, the black spot,
later replaced by borlotti beans), potatoes and bacon, but
above all the capuzi garbi (sliced cabbage, fermented and
sour pickled). This cabbage gives the soup its strong and
slightly acid taste.
To bind the ingredients of this soup, they used aiprem,
Hungarian name for a kind of oil sautéed flour. Jota (from
Celtic jutta. i.e. soup, liquid) was probably first made as a
leftovers dish to feed the whole family. Over time, homemakers worked out different variants: co’ l’osso de persuto
(with ham bone to flavour the soup), co’ l’orzo (with barley), co’ le luganeghe (with fresh sausages).
Another typical dish served at the Julian table is the minestra de ‘bobici, with wheat
grains (bobici),
borlotti beans,
smoked cured
ham
and
a
pinch of pepper. This soup is originally from Istria. Of Austrian origins
is the minestra de bisi spacai, a cream soup made with
split dry peas, also known as Bunkersuppe (because of its
easy recipe, it was prepared for both prisoners and soldiers during the wars).
Very popular and widespread soups in Trieste are the
poorer broth soup brustolà (toasted bread) and, like in
the whole Region, the bean and barley soup.
« The minestra de’ bobici
(soup with wheat grains) »
First courses on the menus in Trieste offer a wide choice
of gnocchi, rice, risottos and pasta that join Slav, Austrian
and Istrian-Venetian influences. Some examples? Gnochi
de’ susini (of Austrian origin, made with plums, potatoes
and eggs), liver gnocchi (of Istrian origin), gnocchi de pan
(made with stale bread), risi
e bisi (risotto
with fresh peas,
beans, lard or
pancetta
bacon, or celery
and laurel).
Main course dishes also offer a taste of cultural harmony. From the Slav-Balkan world come the renowned
cevapcici, small mixed meat sausages (pork, beef and
lamb depending on the area of origin) very spicy and
slightly hot, of a reddish colour given by the paprika. The cevapcici are generally served with raw sliced
onions and Ajvar sauce, a bell pepper, aubergine and
chili pepper sauce (sweet, hot or very hot).
Of Slav origin is also the lubianska, a kind of breaded
Milanese steak filled with ham and cheese.
« From the Slavic-Balkan world
come the cevapcici »
[GRILLED MEAT]
P H O T O A lessandro Castiglioni
Goulash is originally a Hungarian beef stew with potatoes, chunks of ham and plenty paprika to enrich the
dish.
From the Greek community we taste the calandraca,
stewed meat, similar to goulash, served with potatoes.
It seems that the name comes from «calandra», a kind of
medieval boat. If you add a glass of white wine, you get
calandraca co’l vin, whereas the version without tomatoes is called calandraca in bianco. Of Bohemian origin,
the Bohemian hare dish and Bohemian black pudding,
a pork blood sausage with grated bread, marjoram and
garlic.
The Karst farming tradition offers the carsolina fillet
(cooked with Terrano wine) or the kren lamb. Also very
popular is the porzina con capuzi, boiled pork neck fillet
served with krauts, mustard and horseradish.
A traditional side dish in the Julian cuisine is patate in
tecia usually served with goulash and meats or as an alternative chifeletti salati (similar to potato croquettes).
Very popular also fagioli alla smolz, that is borlotti beans
dressed with butter, lard and onion sauté as well as the
rocket and borlotti bean salad called matavilz, rucola e
fasoi commonly found on menus.
« From the Greek community
comes the calandraca »
The mid-afternoon break is a must-do sweet stop at a
café and a taste of some delicacy. We can find all the
traditions of Friuli Venezia Giulia in the Julian patisseries, often in the Trieste variant, together with specialties from across the border.
Central European pastries propose Koch (a kind of sweet
semolina flan, in the de gries version, and rice and raisins, in the version de risi) and Kuguluf (a highly leavened ring-shaped cake) with almonds, raisins and lemon
peel.
Strudel, called
strucolo, with
apple filling (de
pomi), but also
other
season
fruit like cherries or nut and ricotta stuffing is also of Austrian origin.
When wrapped in a cloth and boiled, we have the strucolo in straza (strudel in the cloth).
The elderly cooks in Trieste still make the Schnitte, bread
slices soaked in milk and sugar, dipped into an egg batter and fried. Some families also make povezen, a dessert
originally from Bohemia (made with dry bread, wine and
sugar).
«Strudel is strucolo
in Trieste »
For chocolate lovers, a must-try is a slice of Pischinger
cake (made with various layers of wafers and chocolate
cream), the renowned Viennese Sacher cake, or Rigojanci
cake (made with two layers of chocolate sponge cake with
cacao cream, cream and sugar) of Hungarian origin like
the Dobos cake (five layers of sponge cake and caramel
topping). The carsoline creams are also delicious, made
with puff pastry or cream pastry, served in sumptuous
portions.
« Favette, fritole and pinza to celebrate
festivities »
In Trieste, celebrations throughout the year call for different desserts. In autumn, on All Saints Day, the favette
triestine, small pastries the size of a cherry made with almonds, eggs and maraschino are very popular, traditionally in three colours, white, brown and pink.
At Carnival time the fritole, small fritters made with raisins, pinenuts, cinnamon and rum, whereas Easter is pinza
time, sweet leavened dough made with flour, eggs, sugar
and butter. The mixture is lengthily prepared and leavened
and then we add rum, grated orange and lemon peels and
vanilla.
Of Slavic origin, putizza is Trieste’s version of the Friulian
gubana, with a richer and more elaborate filling, enriched
with cloves, cinnamon and nutmeg.
Presnitz, is another Austrian-Hungarian
typical
cake
made with a
rich dry fruit
filling, aromas
and spices wrapped in the shape of a tortiglione in the puff
pastry. It was apparently made for the first time in Trieste during Princess Sissi’s visit to the city. As dinnertime
moves in, we continue with other typical dishes but this
time predominantly Mediterranean fish dishes, of Venetian origin and Dalmatian-Istrian derivation. The brodeto,
a delicious soup made with different types of fish, is very
popular and widespread all along the Adriatic coast and
traditionally made with small fish and seafood in Trieste.
Of many fish starters, we suggest granzevole alla triestina, seared shellfish served with lemon juice, pepper and
parsley.
« Brodeto and granzevole
alla triestina »
[SARDONI IN SAOR]
PH OT O L AU RA T E S S ARO
« Sardoni in saor
of Venetian origins »
Sardoni in saor (anchovies marinated in vinegar) boast
ancient Venetian origins. It is the most renowned dish in
Trieste, made with layers of fried anchovies and onions
(adding vinegar, laurel and garlic).
Other popular dishes are tomato cod fish (baked with
anchovies and parsley), garnished seabass, baked with a
mixture of shrimps, mussels, clams and scallops, risotto
with pedoci (risotto with mussels) or pedoci allo scotadeo
(mussels with parsley and grated bread). Canocie alla
busara echo mercantile origins, prepared with unwanted
fish placed in the «busara» - the earthenware pot used on
ships. Today canocie (mantis shrimps) are served with a
mixture of grated bread, tomatoes, pepper and wine.
A day in Trieste can finish only with a walk on the Audace
Pier, to admire the magic of this city, a jewel set between
the Karst and the sea.
W IN E S w i th L A N D
AND SEA BOUQUETS
The plateau behind the Regional capital has developed an
interesting viticulture. It covers a small yet still pristine
area. It definitely is not an easy land. This harsh and inaccessible land is characterised by rock soil originated in
deep limestone cracks. The soil is highly permeable and the
unceasing effect of the rain
has
created
caves,
rivers
and sinkholes.
This is why
Karst wines are
strong and excellent in character. They stem from grapes
that grow clinging to the rock exposed to the Adriatic, so
acidity is transmitted from the mountain, flavour from the
sea and minerals from the stone and its strength comes
from bora wind blowing day in and day out. This merging
between strongly diverse natural elements enhances the
original quality of these wines. This land has always lived
on agriculture, albeit plagued by the dramatic historical
events of the past century.
« Karst wines are strong
and excel in character »
However, where once there were trenches today there are
famous wineries producing excellent wines.
They can be found in small villages with the typical double name, the Italian and Slovenian version written on road
signs along the tiny lanes lined with stonewalls. The most
representative producers are Cotar (www. co-tar.si), Marko
Fon (www.vinogradifon.com), Kante (www. kante.it), Lupinc (www.lupinc.it), Skerk (www.skerk.com), Vodopivec
(www.vodopivec.it) and Zidarich (www.zidarich.it).
« The three most important autochthonous vines
are Terrano, Istrian Malvasia and Vitovska »
There are three important grape varieties:
Terrano, a red berry grape originated from Refosco, Istrian Malvasia, less aromatic than other Malvasia wines,
and Vitovska, the refined result of a fine blend of Malvasia and Gleria grapes.
[OSMIZa]
PH OTO MAS S IM O C RIV E L L ARI
G O IN G A R O U N D O S M I Z E
Typical places in the Trieste interior, osmize are spread all over
the Karst territory in the Valleg of Vipacco and on the Slovenian
coast. Be pleasantly led through the municipalities of Duino-Aurisina,
Sgonico, Monrupino, San Dorligo della Valle, Trieste, Muggia, and then
into Slovenia, following the characteristic red boards portraying ivy
branches.
You will find these osmize inside rural houses and farm yards, with
benches and tables outdoors or in the cellars. In their casual ambience you can eat genuine products such as homemade cold meats,
eggs, cheese, olive oil and pickles. Served with wine of the house and
quattro ciacole (a friendly chat).
They represent an institution and are very frequented, mostly in
spring and autumn. Their origin is ancient. The name comes from the
Slovenian osem , meaning eight. In fact eight were the days granted to
the farmers by the Hapsburg civic Magistrate to sell their products
in the farmyards, with the advantage that everything sold during
these days was not taxed. Opening dates vary during the year and
are decided by the farmers depending on the availability of wine and
other products.
T E R R A N O W IN E R O U T E
M O N R U P IN O - S I S T I A N A
[ KM 18.5 ]
A great way to get to know the Karst hinterland is along Strada del vino
Terrano - wine route.
It is a gourmet journey in the heart of the Karst, created in 1986 by Trieste Province, which includes twenty typical trattorie and restaurants.
Following the signs with a stylised bunch of grapes, visitors and gourmets can discover various local products like Karst oil, wine, Tabor and
Monte Re cheese and taste Karst cuisine in a very interesting natural,
scenic, historical and ethnographic area.
Starting from Zolla (in Slovenian Col) in Monrupino Municipality (where
you find Trattoria Al Castelliere, Kres restaurant, restaurant Krizman)
continue towards Villa Opicina, hamlet town of Trieste (Daneu Restaurant) where you can see the obelisk that commemorates the construction of the Vienna – Trieste railway.
Moving to the upper part of the Karst we cross some small towns:
Repen, Borgo Grotta Gigante (Ristorante Milic), Rupinpiccolo (Trattoria
Batic), Sgonico (Trattoria Gustin), Gabrovizza (Trattoria Sociale), Sales
(Trattoria Maurica Peric), Samatorza (Trattoria Franc Fabec), Ternovca,
Prepotto, San Pelagio, Precenico, Slivia, Malchina, Visogliano, and Sistiana.
There are other eating-places in Duino municipality: Trattoria Markovic, Trattoria Sardoc, Trattoria Tence, Trattoria Tre noci, Restaurant
Urdith.
The route offers many interesting sites, such as Grotta Gigante (Giant Cave), Speleology Museum, Karst Botanical Garden. From a nature
point of view the Natural Regional Reserve of Mount Orsario deserves
a special mention and we recommend a stop at Casa Carsica di Repen
(Monrupino) for fascinating information on local ethnography.
D i scover i n g
local products
COFFEE
As already mentioned, one cannot speak of typical products of Trieste without mentioning coffee.
The Julian capital city began its outstanding journey in
coffee trading in the mid-nineteenth century, with its ascent to a major trading port in the Austrian-Hungarian
Empire. Since then, the coffee activity has steadily grown
to the point of setting itself up as an institution called
Trieste Coffee District Cluster (www.triestecoffeecluster.
com).
There are many import Companies and renowned wholesalers in Trieste: Illy Caffè (www.illy.it), Caffè Excelsior
(www.caffeexcelsior.it), Primo Aroma (www.primoaroma.
com), In Punto (www.inpuntocaffe.it) and PlanetCoffee
(www.planetcoffee.it).
Moreover, the coffee supply chain includes ten shipping
companies and twenty businesses specialised in coffee
roasting. It is significant that one of the few decaffeination plants in Italy is also present. (www.demus.it).
Statistical reports confirm that coffee has become part of
the city culture in Trieste, because per capita coffee consumption is almost double the Italian average.
COFFEE DICTIONARY
Coffee culture in Trieste is so ingrained that a lexicon has been
created, used only in the Regional capital, a kind of code that allows
customers to communicate with bartenders. It consists of a terminology that applies only here and varies depending on the type of
coffee required, the addition of milk, the type of cup or glass used
(abbreviated to ‘b’).
To order an expresso in Trieste it is good to know that you should
order a ‘nero’. When you say ‘goccia’ you refer to coffee with a touch
of milk froth in a cup, if it is in a glass ‘goccia in b’. Espresso coffee
with hot milk served in the traditional cup is called ‘capo’. There are
also codified variants: with a lot of milk froth it is called ‘capo in b
tanta’, with a lot of milk froth and cocoa sprinkle it would be «capo
in b tanta special» and without milk froth it is abbreviated into ‘cbs’.
With «caffelatte» or «capo in tazza grande» we order a ‘cappuccino’.
Decaffeinated coffee is simply ‘decaf’.
You just have to try!
Cheese
Excellent fresh and seasoned cheese from cow, sheep and goat
milk are produced on the Karst highlands. Tabor cheese is the
most popular and has a yellow colour with small and diffused
holes. It has a special flavour thanks to milk from pasture fed
cows in the Karst area. The maturing process varies from six to
twelve months.
Jamar, another cheese that is widely appreciated in this area, has
a more intense flavour and piquant taste. It has a hard crust and
tends to be white. It is matured for at least four months in a cave.
Karst dairy products also include fresh caciotte and ricotta flavoured with Karst fennel or Satureja (Zepek).
Honey
The Karst encompasses both the Isonzo and Trieste Karst. In recent years, beekeeping has become increasingly specialised, both
technically and professionally. There are about a hundred beekeepers in the Trieste Karst and nearly a thousand hives. Continental and Mediterranean scrub flora coexist and this peculiarity
has created extremely exquisite honey. Particularly worthy of
mention is the marasca cherry honey, a rare variety coming from
a shrub species (Prunus mahaleb) that grows wild only on the
Karst plain. It is a liquid amber honey, with a strong almond taste.
Excellent acacia, honeydew, lime and mixed blossom honey are
produced in the Karst Region, too.
Tergeste Dop (Protected designation of Origin - PDO)
extra-virgin olive oil
The Province of Trieste can boast an excellent product; Tergeste Dop Oil (www.tergestedop.it).
Olive growing has been practised since ancient times, especially in the geographically warmer and protected areas of
Muggia and San Dorligo della Valle, where we can still see the
old olive trees. The main autochthonous variety, Bianchera
Belica, has found an ideal microclimate in these lands. Bianchera oil contains excellent organoleptic properties: intense
fruity smell, bitter and spicy taste. The local variety CarbonaCernica is also widespread around Muggia.
In addition to autochthonous types, there is Leccino, Pendolino, Maurino, Frantoio and Leccio del Corno.
Karst processed meats
We can taste typical sausages in the Karst upland. The area is
actually ideal for the processing of meat following Italian and
Slovenian rural traditions.
A special mention goes to Karst prosciutto (cured ham), which
is slightly more tender than other cold meats. It is hand sliced
to best appreciate its taste and flavour.
Wines
The most popular wine in the Trieste area is Terrano (teran in
local dialect). It is deep ruby colour wine with a strong taste
and full-bodied structure. The colour and texture have given it
its nickname, «sangue di Cristo» meaning blood of Christ. It is
certainly related to Refosco wine and apparently descends from
Pucino, known since ancient Roman times. It has a strong berry
bouquet.
Vitovska is the most common white grape variety in Trieste
Province. The name shows etymological connection with neighbouring Slovenia and probably derives from a town called Vitolje. A dry fragrant white wine is obtained from these grapes.
It is greatly appreciated as aperitif and suitable for light starters
and fish dishes. Istrian Malvasia is an ancient vine, widespread in
the Adriatic area mostly in the Venetian Republic. Slightly aromatic and low in alcohol, it pairs well with fish based dishes.
[HONEYCOMB]
P H O T O laura tessaro
R ec i pes for
a trad i t i o n al lu n ch
JOTA
- Serves four people
750 g sauerkraut, 500 g di kidney beans, 4 potatoes, salt, garlic, oil, parsley, pepper, 2 sausages, smoked pork
- Preparation
After having thoroughly washed potatoes and beans, let them soak, without added salt, for twelve hours. Then, wash the cabbage and boil it in
one litre water for about an hour and a half. Add the sausages and pork
to the soup.
Prepare an oil and flour sauté, add potatoes and half the amount of boiled
beans. Blend all the ingredients and add salt and pepper. Let stand.
CAPUZI
[ sauerkraut ]
1 kg sauerkraut, 2 bay leaves, 2 garlic cloves, 2 tablespoons flour, salt and
pepper, 1 teaspoon cumin, extra virgin olive oil
- Preparation
Put three tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil in a pan and brown the
garlic. Then remove the garlic, add the flour and let it brown too. Add
sauerkraut (Garbi is cabbage cut into thin slices previously fermented in
salty water with laurel), season with salt and pepper and plenty of cumin.
Half way through the cooking, sausage or smoked pork ribs can be added
to make the dish tastier.
CALANDRACA
[ G oulash w i th potatoes ]
800 g boiled beef or leftover beef (meat cuts for boiled purposes), 500 g di
potatoes, 1 carrot, 1 celery stick, 1 onion, 0.5 lt. of broth, 1 glass of white
wine, 4 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil, 1 level tablespoon of tomato
paste, 2 cloves, black pepper, salt, 1 teaspoon of mixed spices (paprika)
- Preparation
Fry the onion and chopped carrot in a pan and simmer for a few minutes.
Add the meat previously cut into pieces and cook for five minutes to
flavour it. Add the wine and let it evaporate.
Then add the herbs, salt pepper and tomato paste. Diluite with water,
cover the pan and simmer for two hours. Cut the potatoes into small cubes
before adding them to the meat and cook over medium heat for another
half hour. Season with salt and serve.
SWEET KIPFEL
[ P otato C h i felett i ]
- Serves 4 people
500 g floury potatoes, 150 g flour, 30 g di butter, 1 egg, salt and pepper as
needed, frying oil, 60 g di sugar
- Preparation
Peel the potatoes, boil and then mash. Let them cool on a work surface
and then blend in the butter, flour, sugar, egg and salt. Make long rolls
and cut them into 8 – 10 cm pieces. Bend the two ends into to shape of a
horseshoe and then fry in oil.
Serve hot with a sprinkle of castor sugar.
The gourmet tradition of the city is truly
rich. Austrian, Hungarian, Slavic, Balkan
and Adriatic flavours merge into a complex menu.
4 [ L U N C H E S A N D D INN E R S ]
The common Hapsburg heritage, the influences of the various ethnic communities, the history of the border, multilingualism and cultural coexistence have evolved
into a multicultural cuisine that is found
in many inns, wineries, pubs, economical
places as well as in the fine restaurants in
Trieste and the surrounding Karst.
[GRILLED MEAT]
PH OTO ALES S AND RO C AS T IG L IO NI
The food and wine specialities of the Trieste Province differ and range in flavour and in places from elegant and
pleasant restaurants to Karst gostilne. Tasty and nutritious to fight off bora wind and cold weather. Both light
and tasty made with fresh fish according to the Mediterranean tradition. Trieste is in fact also a harmonious combination of tradition. Below you will find a selection of
places in the Karst area and in the capital. The list is not
complete, but aims at offering an introductory guide to
this multicultural cuisine. Many rural bars offer a panoramic view from the Karst plateau. There are other more
fashionable restaurants along the waterfront, which are
well worth visiting while wandering the town.
It starts with some suggestions from the Gorizia Karst,
across the Trieste Karst then follows down towards the
coast. The city centre offers many opportunities for all
budgets and tastes.
Prices for complete meals are stated next to summary information: € less than 25€, €€ from 25 to 30€, €€€ over
50€.
4.LUNCHES AND DINNERS
[SAVOGNA D’ISONZO]
TRATTORIA LOKANDA DEVETAK
Established in 1870, this Trattoria Gostilna has refleced
bordering land characteristics, where menus adapt to the
seasons: selinka (minestrone), mlinci (crusty baked pasta) or
supeta (chicken stew), skutna juha (cottage cheese cream with
porcino mushrooms), snidjeno testo (leavened dough gnocchi
with rabbit stew), goulash and game meat. The extensive wine
list offers typical Karst and Regional wines, as well as renowned
Italian and foreign wines. An eight room Lokanda furnished in
old Karst style has also been available since 2007.
Trattoria Lokanda Devetak
Via Brežici, 22 - San Michele del Carso
34070 Savogna d’Isonzo
Tel. +39 0481 882488
www.devetak.com
info@devetak.com
Price: €€
Times: 12.00-15.00; 19.00-22.30
Closed: Monday, Tuesday all day,
Wednesday and Thursday at lunchtime
Seats: 70
Booking advised
How to arrive
Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert,
22.5 km / 24 min
[ DOBERDÒ
DEL LAGO]
[ D U IN O A U R I S IN A ]
A lbergo
RiSToRANTe
PAHOR
ALLA DAMA
BIANCA
Located just a few kilometres
from Duino, half way between
Trieste and Gorizia it is an
excellent starting point
for hiking the surrounding
countryside. The restaurant
serves traditional Karst dishes.
Gnocchi with cheese and boar
sauces are some first course
dishes. Game prevails in the
main course dishes, but there
are also Mediterranean dishes
paired with wines from the
well-stocked cellar.
Hotel & Restaurant Pahor
Via 1° maggio 14 - Frazione Jamiano
34070 Doberdò del Lago
Tel. +39 0481 410121
www.hotelpahor.com
info@hotelpahor.com
Price: €€
Times: 12.00-15.00; 18.30-23.00, from
Thursday to Sunday (Wednesday only dinner)
Closed: Monday and Tuesday
Seats: 80
Booking advised
This waterfront restaurant
is situated in Duino bay. It is
beautifully located, with a
large roof terrace, ideal for
romantic dinners.
Good quality fish only is
used in the kitchen. Fish
soup, gratin canolicchi and
canestrelli are just some
examples. Try the delicious
desserts Torta sette veli.
Alla Dama Bianca
Località Duino Porto, 61/c
Tel. +39 040 208137
www.alladamabianca.com
info@alladamabianca.com
Price: €€€
Times: lunch and dinner
Closed: Wednesday
Seats: 200 (+300 outdoor)
Booking advised
How to arrive
25.7 km / 19 min
How to arrive
17.6 km / 18 min
AGRITURISMO AL
PESCATURISMO
GRAN OSTERIA
TRE NOCI
Enjoy the sea views and a
picturesque location in this
place where fish is the main
dish. The place is cosy and
simple. The outdoor parking
is inside an old quarry. Some
first course dishes are “sea
fantasy tagliolini” or tagliolini
with prawns. A must-try
main course are the mussels.
Cooked in various ways,
such as au gratin with tartare
sauce. Turbot, sea bass and
grilled sea bream are also just
as delicious.
This cosy and quaint
restaurant offers meat, fish
and Karst flavours, fine and
tasty traditional dishes with a
touch of creativity, based on
strictly fresh ingredients.
Try the nettle gnocchi or
tagliatelle with cheese as first
courses. Grilled meat excels
in the main courses, but even
the fish satisfies the most
demanding palates. White
peach parfait is delicious.
The extensive wine list caters
for all.
Agriturismo Al Pescaturismo
Località Villaggio del Pescatore - Zona
Cava
Tel. +39 040 209846
www.alpescaturismo.it
Price: €€
Closed: from Monday to Wednesday
Seats: 80
Booking advised
Gran Osteria Tre Noci
Frazione Sistiana, 33
Tel. +39 040 299222
www.trenoci.it
trenoci@trenoci.it
Price: €€
Times: 11.00-14.00; 19.00-22.30
Closed: open everyday
Seats: 80
Booking advised
How to arrive
27.3 km / 21 min
How to arrive
28.6 km / 21 min
TRATTORIA
SARDOC
LE TORRI
DI SLIVIA
Just a short walk away from
the Slovenian border and only
a few kilometres from Sistiana
Bay, lies this charming Karst
Trattoria run by the Sardoc
family. In summer, it is very
pleasant to eat in the garden.
It offers typical local dishes
such as plum gnocchi. Main
courses are mainly game and
meat, tasty grills, wild boar and
shin. Try potatoes in tecia (pan
cooked ) and spinach roll. Apple
strudel, sfoglia (puff pastry) with
typical pasticcera cream and nut
strucolo are just some of the
desserts. Wines are from the
estate cellar.
Underground this Osmiza,
discover one of the most
impressive Karst caves,
the Torri di Slivia where
the stalagmites are the
Torri (towers) and Slivia
the borough. The farm is
equipped with a ticket office
for guided tours and an
agribus taking visitors to the
entrance of the cave. The
restaurant serves typical
Karst cuisine, local cold
meats and cheese.
Trattoria Sardoc
Frazione Precenico, 1/b
Tel. +39 040 200871
www.sardoc.eu
info@sardoc.eu
Price: €€
Times: 9.00-23.00
Closed: Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday
Seats: 80
Booking advised
Le Torri Di Slivia
Aurisina Cave, 62/A
Tel. +39 3383515876
www.grottatorridislivia.it
info@letorridislivia.net
Price: €
Times: 10.00-23.00
Closed: variable
Seats: 80
Booking advised
How to arrive
30.1 km / 23 min
How to arrive
33.7 km / 29 min
[ S G O NI C o ]
RISTORANTE
SAVRON
This restaurant serves mainly
Central European cuisine. The
ambience is a bit retro, recalls
Hapsburg history, with AustroHungarian photos and images.
The rustic and simple country
style restaurant is divided into
two rooms. It serves excellent
meat and vegetable starters.
First course highlights are
fagottini di ricotta affumicata
(smoked ricotta cheese
bundles), plum and jota gnocchi
(dumplings). The specialty main
course is sweet and sour pork
loin, pork shank, wild berry
sauced venison.
Ristorante Savron
Frazione Devincina, 25
34010 Sgonico
Tel. +39 040 225592
Price: €€
Times: 12.00-15.00 (Thursday-Monday);
18.00-22.00
Closed: Tuesday and Wednesday
Seats: 110
Booking advised
ENOTECA
S G O NI C O
This wine bar and restaurant
offers fish based dishes in
a friendly and comfortable
ambience. It is ideal for
raw fish (delicious shrimps
with lime, tuna carpaccio
with black pepper, sea bass
tartare with truffles and
Adriatic tuna). Those who
love cooked fish will also
be satisfied. We particularly
recommend calamari
with pancetta (bacon) and
mackerel with roast potatoes.
Top it all with warm Terrano
wine chocolate cake.
Enoteca Sgonico
Via Sgonico, 15
34010 Sgonico
Tel. +39 040 2296623
Price: €€€
Times: 12.00-14.30; 19.00-24.00
Closed: Monday
Seats: 130
Booking advised
How to arrive
38.9 km / 26 min
How to arrive
37.7 km / 25 min
[ M O N R U P IN O ]
[ tr i este ]
HOTEL
RISTORANTE
KRIZMAN
BUFFET DA PEPI
This restaurant surrounded
by lush countryside has a
long-standing tradition and
offers typical Karst cuisine.
Typical regional dishes are
the delicious brustolà soup
and strucolo boiled with
ricotta and spinach, and
main course dishes such as
beef fillet cooked with hay or
lamb chops with Karst herbs.
The atmosphere is pleasantly
friendly and country style.
Hotel Ristorante Krizman
Località Repen, 76
34016 Monrupino
Tel. +39 040 327115
www.hotelkrizman.eu
info@hotelkrizman.eu
Price: €€
Times: 12.00-15.00; 19.00-22.00
Closed: Monday lunch-time and Tuesdays
Booking advised
How to arrive
49.2 km / 34 min
The most popular buffet place
in Trieste, also known as
Bepi S’ciavo, has become an
institution for mid-morning
snacks. Eating takes place
seated at tables, but often
standing at the counter.
Eat what? Boiled meat,
prosciutto, sausages. How?
Cooked and prepared in the
traditional counter built-in
pot, in a simple bread bun or
on dishes, with plenty of Kren
(horseradish), paprika and
sauerkraut. Not to be missed.
Buffet da Pepi
Via della Cassa di Risparmio, 3
34122 Trieste
Tel. +39 040 366858
Price: €
Times: 7.00-21.00
Closed: Sunday
Seats: 40
Booking advised
How to arrive
14 km / 28 min
BUFFET
L ’A P P R O D O
For those that would like
an original Trieste buffet,
this is where you will find
a wide selection of quality
food, also ideal for quick
informal lunches. Taste the
starters, sandwiches, meat
or vegetable quiche, breaded
vegetables, several kinds of
fish-based snacks, such as
carpaccio or stock fish. The
typical prosciutto sandwich
is a must. All paired with a
varied range of sparkling and
still wines or famous beers.
Buffet L’approdo
Viale Giosuè Carducci, 34
34122 Trieste
Tel. +39 040 633466
Price: €
Times: 8.00-21.00
Closed: Saturday and Sunday
Seats: 25
Booking advised
How to arrive
14 km / 28 min
RISTORANTE
BAGUT TA
T R I E S T IN O
This is a typical, simple, and
tasty Trieste food restaurant.
Quality cuisine served in a cosy
setting, with colourful paintings
on the walls. The menu offers
a wide selection of gnocchi
(dumplings), first course dishes
and soups, such as Jota, bobici
soup or the typical pasta with
beans. Karst fried chicken,
lubianska, goulash and boiled
meat are some traditional main
course dishes.
It also has a wide selection of
fish including tasty cold starters
with shrimps, octopus and
potatoes, sarde in saor.
Ristorante Bagutta Triestino
Via Giosuè Carducci, 33
34122 Trieste
Tel. +39 040 3490074
www.baguttatriestino.it
akademiametz@yahoo.it
Price: €€
Times: 9.00-24.00
Closed: Monday and Sunday evening
Seats: 40
Booking advised
How to arrive
14 km / 28 min
BUFFET
BIRRERIA DA
RUDY (SPATEN)
Country style pub, half
way between Bavarianstyle beer bar and Trieste
buffet bar. Pork and beer
are protagonists on the
menu. Kaiserfleisch with
goulash, boiled meat with
sauerkraut or potatoes in
tecia recall Bavarian and
Trieste specialities. There is
also Jota which is the most
typical and traditional soup.
The restaurant is located in a
secluded and quiet spot.
Buffet Birreria da Rudy (Spaten)
Via Valdirivo, 32
34122 Trieste
Tel. +39 040 639428
Price: €
Times: 9.00-24.00 (Monday-Saturday);
12.00-16.00 (Sunday)
Closed: Sunday dinner time
Seats: 60
Booking advised
How to arrive
14 km / 28 min
BUFFET DA
SIORA ROSA
A typical restaurant that
serves traditional Trieste
cuisine right in the centre
of town, just few steps
from Piazza Unità. From
the dishes on the menu, try
the cooked ham in bread
crust with mustard and
kren (horseradish). A tasty
selection of pasta dishes
as well, including potato
gnocchi. The buffet also has a
vast selection of meat dishes.
Try the sweet cinnamon
gnocchi to end with a treat.
Buffet da Siora Rosa
Piazza Attilio Hortis, 3
34122 Trieste
Tel. +39 040 301460
Price: €€
Times: 8.00-20.00 (Saturday, 8.00-15.00)
Closed: Sunday
Seats: 60
Booking advised
How to arrive
15 km / 35 min
VECIO BUFFET
MARASCUTTI
1914
This historical buffet
restaurant in via Battisti
has recently celebrated its
centennial. Once a liquor
store, today it is a classical
reference to the city’s
tradition. The buffet menu
offers dishes inspired by the
multi-ethnic traditions of this
Julian capital city.
Bread and ham gnocchi
(elimina dumplings), jota and
boiled mixed meat are among
the most requested. Strudel
and strucoli will worthily
round off your meal.
Vecio Buffet Marascutti 1914
Via Cesare Battisti, 2/b
34125 Trieste
Tel. +39 040 633719
www.buffetmarascutti.it
info@buffetmarascutti.it
Price: €€
Times: 9.00-15.30; 17.30-22.30
Closed: Tuesday
Seats: 40
Booking advised
How to arrive
9 km / 27 min
TRAT TORIA
NERODISEPPIA
In the centre of Trieste, just
a short walk from Stazione
Marittima, there is this small
restaurant furnished in a simple
and carefully selected style,
opened in 2010. Dishes offer
an attractive combination of
scents and flavours, often very
original and creative. Some first
courses are the tasty bottarga
and pistachio spaghetti, exotic
curried rice with shrimps. Main
course dishes are sea bream
fillet, fried sardines and fried fish.
Excellent desserts, such as cream
and small crushed pistachio cake
or ice-cream on ricotta muffin.
And to top it all, raisin sherbet
with ground pistachios.
Trattoria Nerodiseppia
Via Luigi Cadorna, 23
34122 Trieste
Tel. +39 339153903
www.trattorianerodiseppia.com
nerodiseppiatrieste@libero.it
Price: €€
Times: 12.00-14.30; 19.00-22.30
Closed: Sunday and Monday
Booking advised
How to arrive
9.5 km / 29 min
ANTIPASTOTECA
DI MARE
«ALLA VOLIGA»
Close to San Giusto Castle,
this small seaside place is
suitable for feasting with
friends. The décor recalls an
ancient fishing boat, with
fishing nets and knots. The
menu offers only traditionally
prepared fish from the gulf
of Trieste. The starters are
particularly tasty, followed by
fish lasagne and the soups.
Mackerel, monkfish or grilled
fish are your ideal main
course.
Antipastoteca di mare «Alla Voliga»
Via della Fornace, 1
34131 Trieste
Tel. +39 040 309606
www.antipastotecadimare.it
Price: €
Times: 12.00-14.15; 19.00-22.30
Closed: Sunday evening and Monday
Seats: 50
Booking advised
How to arrive
13 km / 28 min
OSTERIA
D A M A R IN O
A meeting place for the
young, right behind the
main square in Trieste. The
restaurant, maintaining
past architecture, offers a
vast selection of cold cuts,
goose salami, lard, Karst
cheese, honey and preserved
delicacies. The wine cellar
is well stocked with Italian
and foreign wines. Potato
dumplings with green cheese
cream, walnuts and red
radicchio is one of the first
course dishes to try and for
your main course, Muscat
grape sauce veal or beef fillet
cooked with Terrano wine.
Osteria da Marino
Via del Ponte, 5
34122 Trieste
Tel. +39 040 366596
www.osteriadamarino.com
info@osteriadamarino.com
Price: €€
Times: 11.00-15.00;18.00-01.00
Closed: Saturday and Sunday lunchtime
Seats: 30
Booking advised
How to arrive
15 km / 34 min
OSTERIA AI
MAESTRI
BAR TRAT TORIA
«AL GUANACO»
A nice little restaurant in
the centre of Trieste, near
Piazza Goldoni with a warm
and informal setting. This
delightful osteria is nicely
furnished with wooden tables
and a visible open space
kitchen. The presentation of
dishes is very accurate which
corresponds to accuracy
also in the combination of
flavours. A must-try is raw
lobster or the typical sarde
in saor. It is ideal for a drink,
a quick lunch and for wine
tasting with sandwiches,
frittata or other snacks.
This is a small family-run
restaurant for those who
enjoy generous portions.
Main courses are mainly fish
and the seafood pasta is a
must together with fried fish,
mixed grilled fish and mussel
scotadeo. It is suitable for
good slow eaters.
Osteria Ai Maestri
Via della Sorgente, 6,
34125 Trieste
Tel. +39 040 636801
Price: €€
Times: 9.00-23.00
Closed: Sunday
Seats: 20
Booking advised
Bar Trattoria «Al Guanaco»
Via Foscolo, 16
34100 Trieste
Tel. +39 327 9150032
Price: €
Times: 6.30-23.00
Closed: Sunday
Seats: 30
Booking advised
How to arrive
13 km / 27 min
How to arrive
13 km / 27 min
HOSTARIA AI 3
M A G N O NI
Refined and welcoming
ambience, having a big wood
furnished dining room and
a garden. Especially popular
for fresh fish, accurate
presentation of dishes
and a pinch of creativity
combining flavours from the
territory. Try the aubergine
and anchovy parmigiana
with crispy lard and Karst
caciotta cheese. Starters of
the day are real specialties and
Istrian calamari as well as the
chef’s fantasies are some the
delicious main courses.
Hostaria ai 3 Magnoni
Via dell’Eremo, 243
34123 Trieste
www.ai3magnoni.com
info@ai3magnoni.com
Tel. +39 040 910979
Price: €€
Times: 9.30-15.00; 18.30-23.30
Booking advised
How to arrive
10 km / 21 min
ANTICA
TRAT TORIA
SUBAN
One of the most ancient and
historical trattorie of Trieste,
located in the busy San Giovanni
neighbourhood between
the town centre and the
highland. Four generations of
restaurateurs have been offering
their typically local food: karst
jota, small speck and cheese
dumplings, Servola recipe
sausage and spinach fagottino
(stuffed dumplings), Istrian fusi
with stew, Dalmatian pastizzada.
Karst herb sauces enhance meat
dishes such as prosciutto stuffed
loin. A must-have dessert is the
typical millefoglie (puff pastry
with cream).
Antica Trattoria Suban
Via E. Comici, 2/d
34128 Trieste
Tel. +30 040 54368
www.suban.it
anticatrattoria@suban.it
Price: €€
Times: 12.30-22.30
Closed: Tuesday
Booking advised
How to arrive
9.5 km / 15 min
RISTORANTE
SCABAR
AGRITURISMO
GRGIC IGOR
Fish has a main role in this
restaurant’s cuisine. You can
start with a pesce azzurro
trio followed by fish ravioli
with scallops and for your
main course the pleasant and
balanced flavours of sautéed
shrimps. Swordfish and
snapper steak with porcini
mushrooms is also a must.
The atmosphere is cosy,
sober and pleasant. From
the terrace, enjoy a beautiful
view over the bay. You may
encounter noir author Veit
Heinichen.
This beautiful restaurant is
not far from the small church
in Patriciano. Taste typical
local products in a friendly
country atmosphere. The
menu offers homemade Karst
food such as jota, pasticcio
(lasagne), gnocchi de pan
(bread dumplings) or surprise
gnocchi (sage, spinach and
cheese dumplings) and
zucchini rolls. Try the first
course trio. The main course
to try is goulash with polenta
and pan-cooked potatoes.
Own wines available for
tasting and purchasing.
Ristorante Scabar
34128 Trieste
Tel. +39 040 810368
www.scabar.it
Price: €€
Times: 12.00-15.00; 19.00-23.00
Closed: Monday
Seats: 50
Booking advised
How to arrive
11 km / 19 min
Agriturismo Grgic Igor
Località Padriciano, 193
34149 Trieste
Tel. +39 040 226445
www.grgic.it
info@grgic.it
Price: €
Times: 10.00-23.00
Closed: from Monday to Thursday
Seats: 50
Booking advised
How to arrive
5.5 km / 6 min
[ M ugg i a ]
O S T E R I A D E T O NI
TRATTORIA
RISORTA
This osteria is located in
Plavie on the Slovenian
border and offers tasty grilled
meat in a country style
ambience. It is a countryside
oasis of tranquillity
characterised by a friendly
atmosphere and a garden for
summer dining. Grilled meat
specialities with side dishes
including potatoes and grilled
vegetables are the highlights
of this place.
This trattoria overlooks
the inner harbour, called
mandracchio. During
summer, you can dine
on a large open terrace
overlooking the sea.
Specialities are creatively
prepared seafood dishes such
as scallops with red and black
truffle. Other dishes worthy
of mention are lobster
spaghetti or mixed grill. To
make your choice easier, the
menu suggests seven dishes
including dessert of the day.
Trattoria Risorta
Riva De Amicis, 1/a
34015 Muggia
Tel. +39 040 271219
www.trattoriarisorta.it
info@trattoriarisorta.it
Price: €€
Times: 12.00-15.00; 19.00-22.00
Closed: Monday and Sunday evening
Seats: 58
Booking advised
Osteria de Toni
Località Belpoggio, 5
34015 Muggia
Tel. +39 040 231061
Price: €
Booking advised
How to arrive
20 km / 18 min
How to arrive
21 km / 22 min
[CATCH OF THE DAY]
P H O T O maurizio valdemarin
Shopping is for everyone in the Julian
capital city. Historically an emporium
city, it still has plenty of shops, artisan
stores and shopping malls located within
a few kilometres. Just a walk through via
Carducci and Corso Italia, along Via San
Nicolò and Via Dante is all you need to
find main fashion brands but also interesting quality item shops.
5 [ shopp i n g ]
There are plenty of opportunities to
make good purchases between Piazza
della Borsa and Piazza Unità d’Italia and
in the old city called città vecia. The city’s antique shops and small artisan stores are in the Canava area.
The two shopping malls just outside the
city centre in Trieste are on public transport routes, too.
[ T R I E S T E . caff è degli specchi ]
PH OTO M AU RIZ IO VAL D E M ARIN
[ D U IN O A U R I S IN A ]
AZIENDA
AGRICOLA SKERK
On the Karst highland, amidst
the vineyards that overlook
the gulf, is where in 2009
this company opened a new
wine cellar carved into the
rock at a depth of 20 meters.
This is where we find the
barrel room, the wine aging
area, characterised by arched
rock ceilings, wine tasting
and wine processing areas.
Vitovska, Istrian Malvasia and
Terrano are some of the wines
produced and sold here.
In Prepotto, on the Karst
highland, on small plots
located between the rocks
and the sea, the Skerk family
practises precise intensive
viticulture to enhance the
varieties of autochthonous
grapes such as Istrian
Malvasia, Vitovska, and
Terrano. After ageing in
cellars dug out of the typical
Karst calcareous rock, wines
acquire unique characteristics
and become expressions of
the surrounding territory.
They are for sale on the
premises.
Cantina Zidarich
Località Prepotto, 23
Tel. +39 040 201223
www.zidarich.it
info@zidarich.it
Azienda agricola Skerk
Località Prepotto, 20
Tel. +39 040 200156
www.skerk.com
info@skerk.com
How to arrive
33 km / 29 min
How to arrive
33 km / 29 min
C A N T IN A
ZIDARICH
5 . shopping
AZIENDA
AGRICOLA KANTE
Edi Kante’s rows of vines
stand out on the Karst
halfway between the Adriatic
coast and the mountains.
The environmental sensitivity
is a determining element for
the produce of this farm,
giving importance to vineyard
hand-processed treatments.
Grapes complete their
ripening in the cellar thus
resulting in perfectly balanced
wines. Here we encounter
all the flavours, fragrances
and aromas of this territory
together with all the passion
of the winemaker.
Azienda agricola Kante
Località Prepotto, 1/a
Te. +39 040 200255
www.kante.it
kante@kante.it
How to arrive
33 km / 29 min
AZIENDA AGRICOLA
RADOVIČ DI NEVO
E FL AVIA RADOVIČ
Radovic farm, on the Karst, is a
certified organic food producer
and wine, olive oil, fruit and
vegetables follow Green
standards. It has an ecological
fuel heating plant, solar and
photovoltaic panels for hot
water as well as generation
of its own electricity. It sells
pleasant white wines (such
as Vitovska and Malvasia),
red wines with a strong
character (such as Terrano
and Refosco) as well as spicy
and intense flavoured olive oil
from autochthonous olives
(Bianchera Belica) pressed in
the family mill. Taste and enjoy
these products in the adjacent
farmhouse restaurant.
Azienda agricola Radovic di Nevo e
Flavia Radovic
Località Aurisina, 138/a
Tel. +39 040 200173
www.agriturismoradovic.it
info@agriturismoradovic.it
How to arrive
33 km / 29 min
AZIENDA
AGRICOLA
A N T O NI Č
[ S G O NI C o ]
Products can be purchased
directly here in Ceroglie,
this Karst hamlet at the foot
of Mount Hermada. At the
farm shop near the barns, we
can buy cheese (fresh and
seasoned pecorino from goat
milk, fresh, salted or with
Karst herbs Ricotta), cold
cuts (salami, Karst prosciutto
crudo - cured ham, ossocollo,
porchetta) and wines
(Terrano and Vitovska). The
shop is open from 5 pm to 7
pm on Mondays, Wednesdays
and Fridays. The farm also
sells unrefined wool as raw
material to manufacturers of
insulating products.
Not far from Grotta Gigante
cave, in the village of the
same name, is sculptor Paolo
Hrovatin’s workshop. His
hands shape works of art,
sculptures and everyday
objects. Basic materials of his
works are Karst stones, such
as Aurisina stone, stalactite
and calcareous alabaster,
shaped according to versatile
styles ranging from classic to
modern.
A R T H R O V A T IN
Azienda agricola Antonic
Località Ceroglie, 44
Tel. +39 340 5847185
www.kmetijaantonic.it
Art Hrovatin
Borgo Grotta Gigante, 9/a
34010 Sgonico
Tel. +39 040 327077
paolohrovatin@tiscali.it
How to arrive
38.9 km / 26 min
How to arrive
33 km / 29 min
5 . shopping
KAJZER MARMI
Peter Škabar is a marble artist,
who set up his company in
2001. He very soon began
ranking amongst the best
representatives in artisan
creations, becoming popular
first for his stone artefacts
then for his marble works.
Kajzer Marmi
Zona Artigianale Sgonico, 29/c
34010 Sgonico
Tel. +39 040 2529343
www.kajzermarmi.com
info@kajzermarmi.com
How to arrive
38.9 km / 26 min
F AT T O R I A C A R S I C A
B A J TA D I S K E R L J
SL AVKO E C.
In the town of Sales in
the middle of the Karst
a genuine Zero km farm
exists. The whole supply
chain is represented here.
Farm animals, surrounding
fields, vineyards, a food
store and farm snack bar
co-exist in harmony. Pork
meat, cold meats in general,
local sausages, own wines,
preserves, oil and different
kinds of honey from Trieste
Province are on sale in the
food store. The store times
are from 9 am to 1 pm,
Tuesday to Sunday, in the
afternoon from 4 pm to 7 pm
from Wednesday to Saturday.
Fattoria Carsica Bajta di Skerlj
Slavko e C.
Località Sales, 108
34010 Sgonico
Tel. +39 040 2296090
www.bajta.it
info@bajta.it
How to arrive
38.9 km / 26 min
AZIENDA
AGRITURISTICA
MILIČ (ZAGRSKI)
In an isolated location
surrounded by the green
countryside, Zagrski Farm
run by the Milic family, is
dedicated to agriculture,
animal breeding and farm
produce. Genuine and
typical products are made in
this rural setting with farm
animals including horses. The
farm offers excellent meat
such as bacon and pepper
prosciutto, seasoned in the
Karst rock cellar, as well as
excellent wines obtained from
meticulous processing.
Azienda agrituristica Milic (Zagrski)
Località Sagrado, 2
34010 Sgonico
Tel. +39 040 229383
www.agriturismomilic.it
How to arrive
38.9 km / 26 min
[ tr i este ]
S alumer i a
S artor i
There is a wide selection of
cold cuts in this city centre
delicatessen, not far from
Piazza Unità d'Italia. It looks
like a typical village store and
many people of Trieste shop
here. It offers typical products
from the surrounding
territory, such as hand-cut
ham and Karst prosciutto.
You can buy typical Montasio
and Tabor cheese, mozzarella,
gorgonzola , ricotta and
Karst pickles and olives.
Opening time: 7.45 am - 1.15
pm and 3.30 pm - 7.30 pm,
from Mondays to Saturdays,
Mondays only in the morning.
Salumeria Sartori
Via di Cavana, 15/a
34122 Trieste
Tel. +39 040 300721
How to arrive
15 km / 33 min
5 . shopping
ALIMENTA ZIONE
BM
This delicatessen, daily
shopping spot for local
gourmets, is located close to
city centre, just a short walk
from the station. A wide
range of products, especially
salami and local cheese. You
can also choose chocolate
products or traditional
pastries for a sweet gift idea.
Alimentazione BM
Via Roma, 3
34122 Trieste
Tel. +39 040 630217
How to arrive
14 km / 28 min
SALUMARE
As per tradition, you will see
salmon and cod hanging from
the ceiling. You find yourself
in a fish laboratory where
the fresh catch of the day is
expertly processed, prepared
and served in delicious
quiches, snacks, simple
courses and sauces. Enjoy
SaluMare delicacies at the
counter, at the tables placed
outside or you can have it
packed and enjoy it at home.
Opening time: 11 am - 2 pm,
Tuesday to Saturday.
SaluMare
Via di Cavana, 13
34124 Trieste
Tel. +39 040 3229743
www.salumare.com
info@salumare.it
How to arrive
15 km / 33 min
QUI GAT TA
CI COVA
Creatively bespoke vases,
lamps, cups, plates and
décor are some of ceramic
potter Paul Vecchiet’s artistic
creations. He creates Italian
majolica as well as clay oven
dishes and crockery, all with
skilled artisanship. He himself
carries out all the processing,
baking and decorating in his
laboratory, located between
Via Crispi and via Rossetti,
next to the showroom.
Qui gatta ci cova
Via dell’Eremo, 243
Via Rossetti, 13/b
34124 Trieste
Tel. +39 040 7600343
How to arrive
12 km / 26 min
CAFFÈ VAT TA
Caffè Vatta, recently
renovated, is located in
historical town Opicina. It is
open daily as a café, patisserie
and homemade ice-cream
shop. An absolute must
are the mignon chocolate
pastries, Karst bakery creams
in different variations and
Chantilly cream maltagliati
(irregular pastry squares).This
café is also recommended for
a quick lunch (sandwiches,
savoury croissants and salads)
for those arriving by Opicina
tram way.
Caffè Vatta
Via Nazionale, 38 - Opicina
34016 Trieste
Tel. +39 040 215313
How to arrive
4.5 km / 6 min
5 . shopping
VIDALI ERIK
ROSSO DI FERRO
Bespoke handmade stone
craft, customised on request.
Artistic creations ranging
from fountains, tables,
vases made out of Karst
marble. Artist Erik Vidali’s
hands create this artisanal
craft. Everyday objects both
functional and artistic are
produced by traditional
methods using stone
exclusively. The art of stone
masonry and sculpture is
passed down from generation
to generation keeping the
culture alive both historically
and economically.
Rosso di Ferro is the name of
artist Francesco Fragiacomo’s
studio. Through constant
artistic research, he has
developed a skill to shape
the essence of creations in a
variety of colours, starting
with the processing of
ceramics. Materials used are
stoneware and porcelain,
decorated with enamels and
baked at high temperatures.
Decor items, mirrors, vases,
bowls, cups, glasses and lamps
are thus created. He also
holds pottery courses in his
workshop.
Vidali Erik
Opicina, 905
34016 Trieste
Tel. +39 040 212548
Rosso di ferro
Via Crosada, 3
34122 Trieste
Tel. +39 040 304398
www.rossodiferro.it
info@rossodiferro.it
How to arrive
4.5 km / 6 min
How to arrive
15 km / 33 min
IL GIULIA
S hopp i n g mall
A shopping mall located
in Via Giulia, in the centre
of Trieste. It is on public
transport routes (line 9
and line 6). Besides shops
selling electronics, optics,
jewellery, clothing, shoes and
accessories there are also a
few eating spots, cafés and a
large supermarket.
Opening hours:
9.30 am to 7.30 pm
From Monday to Saturday;
10.00 am to 7.30 pm on
Sundays
Il Giulia
Via Giulia, 75/3
34126 Trieste
Tel. +39 040 578471
www.ilgiulia.it
info@ilgiulia.it
How to arrive
11 km / 21 min
LE TORRI
D’EUROPA
S hopp i n g mall
‘Le due Torri’ shopping mall
is located in Via Svevo. It is
also on public bus route n.29.
The mall comprises of one
hundred and twenty shops
(including shops that sell
shoes, clothing, electronics
and a range of other
products), a big supermarket,
multiplex cinema, a leisure
area, a playground and an
information point for shows
and events. Shops are open
daily at the following times:
12.00 to 9.00 pm (Monday),
9.00 am to 9.00 pm (Tuesday
to Saturday) and 10.00 am to
9.00 pm on Sundays.
The dining area is open until
late at night.
Le Torri d’Europa
Via Svevo, 14
34100 Trieste
Tel. +39 040 637448
www.torrideuropa.com
info@torrideuropa.com
How to arrive
13 km / 30 min
5 . shopping
[ mugg i a ]
PASTICCERIA
T R I E S T IN A
ULCIGRAI
Founded as a family run
patisserie, it is now a well
established business. It
specialises in producing fresh
cakes, typical Trieste products
(such as putizza, presnitz,
pinza, Linzer cakes) and
traditional bakery (Panettoni
and Colombe, Christmas
and Easter cakes). Some
of their own original and
most popular pastries are
Favette Triestine, Marzapane
triestino (in various flavours)
and Veneziana, a widely
appreciated popular snack.
Opening hours: 8.00 am - 1.00
pm and 3.00 pm - 6.00 pm,
from Monday to Saturday.
Pasticceria Triestina Ulcigrai
Via Petronio, 1/a
34015 Muggia
Tel. +39 040 232335
www.pasticceriatriestina.it
ulcigrai@pasticceriatriestina.com
BIRRA
ARTIGIANALE
CAMPAGNOLO
The winds that blow in Trieste
city inspired the names of
these artisan beers and they
are crafted with this precise
environmental association in
mind: Bora Ciara (Weizen),
Borin (Pils), dark Bora (special
red) and Neverin (stout).
Two brothers, Angelo and
Michele Campagnolo, started
to produce their beers in
2007. Campagnolo beers
are actually served in several
good restaurants and can be
bought at the brewery outlet.
Open from Monday to Friday
(8.00 am to 5.00 pm).
Birra artigianale Campagnolo
Zenit snc di A. e M. Campagnolo
Strada delle Saline, 30
34015 Muggia
Tel. +39 040 9234329
www.birracampagnolo.it
info@birracampagnolo.it
How to arrive
18 km / 16 min
How to arrive
19 km / 17 min
MONTEDORO
FREE TIME
Montedoro Free Time
shopping centre is located in
Muggia but easily accessible
from Trieste by city bus
number 20 from Central
Station. Here you can find
many shopping opportunities,
events, games and
entertainment. The building
was constructed with a
futuristic design and has huge
glass windows with bright and
luminous areas.
Opening hours:
9.00 am - 8.30 pm
from Monday to Saturday,
10.00 am - 8.00 pm Sundays.
Montedoro Free Time
Via Flavia di Stramare, 119
34015 Muggia
Tel. +39 040 232320
www.montedorofreetime.it
info@montedorofreetime.it
How to arrive
19 km / 17 min
[ SEZANA]
V IN A K R A S
Karst viticulture on the border
is well represented by the Kras
winery, one of the largest in
this area. It uses grapes from
different Karst vineyards as
well as its own produce. Upon
request, you can arrange
tastings and tours. Terrano
excels as a red wine and there
is a varied choice of white
wines: Malvasia, Chardonnay,
Sauvignon, Vitovska Griganja.
Wines can be purchased in
the winery store.
Vinakras
Sejmiska pot, 1/a
6210 Sezana
Tel. +386 (0)5 7313444
www.vinakras.si
vinakras@siol.net
How to arrive
49.7 km / 35 min
5 . shopping
[ T R I E S T E . p I azza unità d ' italia ]
P H O T O G abriele Crozzoli
“ Make voyages. Attempt them. There is nothing else. ”
Tennessee Williams
In the past, wayfarers who walked across
the Medieval contrade in Friuli would often come
across a Glisiut (cesiol in Venetian dialect).
A small votive chapel situated at the main
crossroads that offered shelter. The inscriptions
that can still be read, invited travellers to rest,
meditate and pray. A way to recover strength
and thoughts and then continue the journey with
renewed spirit. Today our journeys are characterised
by speed: technology is our unavoidable companion.
This guide aims to recover a forgotten sense and
invites modern travellers to slow down, observe
and learn. Even for you, as it was for the ancient
traveller, the journey will be easier after these rests.
Autovie Venete
0432 925111 - 040 3189235
www.autovie.it
➡
UP

[ oltrecasello ] 3

Transcription

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