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SOCIAL MEDIA | BUILDING A WAGYU BRAND | JUDGING WAGYU | AN EXECUTIVE CHEF
TOKYO’s SLAUGHTERHOUSE | WAGYU CATTLE BUYERS | WORLD BEEF EXPO | WILDFIRES | CATTLEFAX
Taste Excellence
AWA
NEWSLETTER
SEPTEMBER
2015
208-262-8100
www.wagyu.org
AWA
NEWSLETTER
SEPTEMBER
2015
BE CAREFUL WITH SOCIAL MEDIA
from the editors desk - Paul Redner
We recently heard from a couple of long time members
and breeders that Wagyu dialog on Facebook was
creating a bad impression of the state of the breed.
we’ve been aware of the Facebook dialog, but have
generally consider it as individuals venting
There are people out there whose only contact or initial
contact with the breed is on Facebook, and they give the
Facebook presentation a great deal of credibility.
breed. This dialog while probably well intentioned, may
in fact not serve the breed’s or in fact the writer’s long
term best interest.
We’re not talking about impeding anybody’s first
amendment rights, but would just ask those
participants to consider how a current statement or
series of statements might appear to someone less
knowledgeable about the breed or a developing
situation within the breed.
With that in mind we might ask that those who use
the social media to discuss the breed do so with the
realization that for many readers this may well be their
initial and/or their lasting impression of the state of the
BOARD OF DIRECTOR ELECTIONS
As you may know each year Board of Director positions become available. If you
believe you have something to offer in helping the direction of the Breed Association
then please consider getting involved. For further information contact the office.
EDITOR
Paul Redner
email pcredner@hotmail.com
phone (719)331-6531
PUBLISHER
American Wagyu Association
Michael Beattie - Executive Director
email office@wagyu.org
phone (208)262-8100
website www.wagyu.org
2
CONTRIBUTORS
Paul Redner, Mike Sunda,
Barbara Duckworth, JDA,
Mishima Reserve, AWA staff,
Worldbeefexpo.com, Cattlefax
GRAPHIC DESIGN / ADVERTISING
Jon Hayenga - Creative Director
email graphics@wagyu.org
phone (208)262-8100
DISCLAIMER
The AWA Staff
208-262-8100
office@wagyu.org
American Wagyu Association, Inc (AWA)
makes no statements, representations or
warranties about the accuracy or completeness of, any information relating to third party
advertising and/or, inquiries made through
this medium; and, disclaims all responsibility
for information and all liability (including without limitation, liability in negligence) for all expenses, losses, damages, and costs you may
incur as a result of information being inaccurate or incomplete in any way for any reason.
Reproduction in whole or part is forbidden
without prior written permission to the AWA.
AWA
NEWSLETTER
SEPTEMBER
2015
RANCH BUILDS CUSTOMERS BY BUILDING WAGYU BRAND
Posted Aug. 20th, 2015 by Barbara Duckworth
Here’s a look at our neighbor to the north and a little
different marketing approach
For the full article visit:
http://www.producer.com/2015/08/ranch-builds-customers-by-building-wagyu-brand/
Brandon Ball polished off two Wagyu burgers before
heading off to tour the pens where the family raises
cattle for their branded beef program. His grandfather,
Simmental breeder Jack Ball, became involved with
bringing the Japanese cattle to Canada via the United
States in 1991.
The breed did not become popular but the family, which
included his son Jeff and daughter-in-law Michelle,
persisted until they developed a branded beef program
based on Wagyu cattle.
This program starts in the breeding pasture. Brandon
takes care of the cow herd and his father Jeff runs the
feedlot where the cattle go on a barley ration for up to
560 days to slowly achieve the desired market weight of
about 1,600 pounds. “We raise ’em and she sells ’em,”
said Brandon.
Brant Lake Cattle company is a family owned and operated business where the first Wagyu herd was started in
1993. They have used fullblood Wagyu bulls since 1998
on a commercial herd of mostly red and black Angus
cows. Over time they have kept replacement females
with Wagyu breeding and added them to the herd. In
addition the family farms about 4,000 acres of grain and
has a 15,000 head feedlot at Brant, Alta.
The Brant Lake Wagyu beef program took off four
years ago when Michelle started sending beef to a pub
in Okotoks. Word of mouth among chefs piqued the
interest in the highly marbled beef raised 45 minutes
south of Calgary.
“Most of the restaurant chefs like the story behind it
and they like that it is local. They like the idea that is a
different choice to put on their menu,” Michelle said.
She marketed it as a luxury, artisan beef to chefs who
were already familiar with Kobe beef. Kobe beef indicates the region where the Wagyu are raised.
Michelle has a federal storage facility in Calgary and an
exclusive distributor to market beef across Canada. She
is also considering exporting to potential customers in
Dubai, Hong Kong and China. A coup was shipping
Wagyu beef to Japan.
3
AWA
NEWSLETTER
SEPTEMBER
2015
JUDGING WAGYU
from the editors desk - Paul Redner
There seems to be a fairly widespread dissatisfaction
with Wagyu judges in our halter shows. We constantly
hear comments like “they don’t know the breed” or
“they’re judging us on an angus standard”, or some
variation of both. From looking at a few Wagyu shows
and doing a very cursory evaluation of the judges and
their standards I’d say there might be some basis in
those statements.
When you think about it, why shouldn’t we take into
consideration these statements. How many college judging teams have ever evaluated Wagyu or has truely ever
seen a Wagyu? I’ll bet it’s few and far between. How
then does a potential judge learn about Wagyu? What’s
his/her incentive to learn? A lot of questions with not
a lot of answers! Most of the problem revolves around
the relatively low numbers in the breed and then there
are the rather distinct physical characteristics.
With all that in mind shouldn’t we provide a potential
judge a portrait of the ideal Wagyu animal. To the best
of my knowledge we don’t have that portrait. How do
we then produce one? My best guess would be to first
describe and ideal bull, cow, heifer etc. We could ask
academics and their opinion is certainly welcome, but
why not you the Wagyu breeder, producer, feeder etc?
How about each of you writing down the particular
physical characteristics of a Wagyu that you think make
for the ideal Wagyu animal?
4
For guidance you could check other breeds criteria, and
then modify them as needed to fit the Wagyu breed.
I’m just thinking here of how I’d start and frankly I
don’t have a clue, but from all the strong opinions I
see on Facebook, I’m sure some of you could create a
solid picture. We could then use your input to establish
a standard for further judging of future shows. At the
very least we could gather some ideas and possibly have
a great starting point.
Just send me your ideas ( pcredner@hotmail.com ) and
we’ll consolidate them together and see what we can
come up with.
AWA
NEWSLETTER
SEPTEMBER
2015
AN EXECUTIVE CHEF
from the editors desk - Paul Redner
We recently had a customer request to bring one
of their clients with them on a tour of the ranch to
experience our Wagyu operation. We later learned that
the guest was an executive chef, so I anticipated a nice
drive around where I could show off the girls and talk
about the ranch.
When the group arrived the first person out of the car
was a nice looking young man, in his late twenties or
early thirties, who I assumed was an assistant or a friend.
Wrong again, Derek Biazo is relatively young guy but he
is every bit of an executive chef. He must be because
he is a chef at Alexander’s Steak House in Cupertino,
Cal. To those of you who aren’t aware, Alexander’s is
a very upscale restaurant with several locations around
the country which they, of course, feature Wagyu beef.
Derek differentiates between F-1’s and fullbloods
on his menu. He explains that his customer base is
diverse and while many of his customers appreciate
the typical American fare or cuts, he does have a solid
number of customers who appreciate the more highly
marbled Japanese presentation.
on his menu. He feels that it helps put his customers
at ease and ultimately makes the restaurant more
responsive to his customer’s desires.
From this visit I learned that the world of Wagyu
is quite a bit more widespread and a lot more
sophisticated than I’d imagined. What I learned the
most is that I’ll have to do my homework and be more
prepared for all my customers especially the ones like
Derek. I’ll bet a lot of fellow producers will be or have
already been similarly challenged. The best salesman
know all aspects of their product, so be prepared to
answer all or your customers questions. It’ll work for
both of you. Thanks Derek.
Not only does he differentiate between F-1’s, and
fullbloods, but his depth of knowledge of the breed
itself was equally impressive. He asked questions about
the lineage of both my bulls, and cows. He mentioned
his preference for Tajima, and offered an opinion on
the different Japanese prefectures as to their product.
Derek likes to be able to discuss intelligently everything
5
AWA
NEWSLETTER
SEPTEMBER
2015
WAGYU: MORE AT STAKE
By Mike Sunda - Special to the Japan Times - Aug 14 , 2015
When it comes to cuts of meat, there are few sights
that raise expectations like the marbling of a prime cut
of Wagyu beef. Brands like Kobe and Matsuzaka are
already household names in Japan, and increasingly
consumers and chefs the world over are buying into the
luxury meat, with import bans lifted on Wagyu headed
for the European Union and the US in recent years. In
2014, Japan exported 1,251 tons of beef worldwide, and
there are plans to up that quota to 4,000 tons by 2020.
Of course, the marbled marvel comes at a price. Topgrade A5 cuts — a label strictly reserved only for beef
that exhibits superlative color, texture, firmness and, of
course, is shot through with ribbons of fat — can reach
eye-watering prices. The Nobu restaurant inside Caesars
Palace offers a seven-course banquet of such A5 cuts
that will set you back a startling $688, an example of the
conspicuous luxury that Wagyu has come to represent
across the globe.
No matter its position at the top of the beef chain,
Wagyu must still pass through the same equalizing
6
process as regular beef — a process that occurs daily
at the Shibaura meat market near Tokyo’s Shinagawa
Station, which accounts for 15 percent of all of Japan’s
Wagyu beef.
The market’s slaughterhouse, which has been
functioning since 1936, processes 430 cows per day,
two-thirds of which are Wagyu.
“To other people it might not exactly look like we’re
dealing with industrial goods, but for us it’s all a
commodity,” says Kimikazu Matsushita, an employee at
Shibaura. “Especially for people new to the job, there’s a
huge amount that has to be learned. We don’t have time
to think about things like whether we’re accountable for
(the animals’) lives — we’re so busy concentrating on
making sure that we don’t make mistakes, on processing
the meat as perfectly as is possible.”
It’s a process requiring such immense skill, training
and mental fortitude that mastering the job can take a
decade. And yet, for all the craftsmanship that goes into
AWA
NEWSLETTER
SEPTEMBER
2015
MORE AT STAKE CONTINUED
their work, many of the workers will never be able to
speak freely about their occupation.
In the corner of the Shibaura market’s Meat
Information Center (2-7-19 Konan, Minato-ku, Tokyo;
03-5479-0651; open Mon.-Fri. 10 a.m.-6 p.m.) is a table
topped with a stack of crudely composed hate mail:
evidence of social discrimination and prejudice that still
persists in contemporary Japanese society.
Slaughtering along with leatherwork, undertaking,
sewage work and certain other professions — still
remains stigmatized as an “unclean” occupation. This
taboo dates back to the medieval period (1185-1600),
when outcast groups known as eta (literally, “an
abundance of filth”) or hinin (non-human) were first
discriminated against. Since the 19th century both terms
have been encompassed under the umbrella term
burakumin (“hamlet people”), in reference to the
segregated communities that they were forced to live in.
Even within the eta-hinin caste — which also consisted
of displaced convicts, orphans, sickly people and beggar
monks — those working in slaughterhouses were
especially stigmatized for their perceived proximity to
kegare (“impurity” or “defilement”).
The Oscar-winning 2008 drama “Departures”
(“Okuribito”), about a traditional Japanese mortician,
showed there can be a huge gap between perceptions
of kegare and the reality of stigmatized jobs. Likewise,
it seems paradoxical that high-quality Wagyu could
be considered “kegare” while it’s being prepared at a
Tokyo slaughterhouse and a luxury when it’s eaten at a
Michelin-starred restaurant.
Much of the discrimination toward minority groups
in Japan can be situated within a false but persistent
narrative of a homogeneous society. Buraku groups,
however, neither stand out phenotypically nor in terms
of language or religion, so discrimination has instead
continued through the practice of “background checks,”
which trace an individual’s family ancestry and their connections with geographical areas that were historically
segregated. The legacy of such discrimination continues
to linger, with those of buraku descent potentially experiencing difficulties finding jobs and marriage partners.
Workers at the Shibaura slaughterhouse are subject to
lingering buraku discrimination on the basis of
occupation alone, regardless of their family heritage.
“When people ask us about what sort of work we do,
we have to hesitate over how to answer,” says Yuki
Miyazaki, a worker at the slaughterhouse. “In most
cases, it’s because we don’t want our families to get
hurt. If it’s just us that’s facing discrimination, we can
fight against that. But if our children are discriminated
against, they don’t have the power to fight back — we
have to protect them.
7
AWA
NEWSLETTER
SEPTEMBER
2015
MORE AT STAKE CONTINUED
“There are times, personally, when I dodge the
question by just saying that I work in the meat industry,”
Miyazaki continues. “And the reason for that is because
I don’t want to lie. We’ve all had to train hard for at least
10 years just to be able to do this job, and it’s a difficult
job — extremely difficult. We take a lot of pride in our
work, and we’d love nothing more than to be able to
boast about the craft that goes into it.”
Educating the public about that work and its context
is one of the key goals of the Shibaura Slaughterhouse
Union, which, led by 58-year-old Yutaka Tochigi,
represents workers like Matsushita and Miyazaki.
nor considered employees. Instead, they received their
payment in intestines, which they could sell. Following a
campaign of strikes led by The National Union of
General Workers Tokyo South (NAMBU), the workers
were instated as official employees of the Tokyo
Municipal Government in 1980 — a major civil rights
victory.
Generic and office-like from the outside — wholly
inconspicuous, despite its location in the heart of the
city — and pristine and clinical on the inside, the
building that houses the Shibaura market fittingly
demonstrates the incongruity between the utilitarian
reality of the production of luxury meat, and the
deep-seated historical prejudices that accompany it.
Diners diving into a marbled A5-cut of Wagyu might
pay their compliments to the chef, but knowing what
happens inside Tokyo’s last major slaughterhouse, perhaps some praise should be saved for the workers, too.
(Left to right) Yuki Miyazaki, Kimikazu Matsushita and Yutaka Tochigi
Labour union success stories are dwindling in Japan, but
the Slaughterhouse Union has achieved a number of
significant goals throughout its history and continues to
do so. The union was born in 1971, a time when those
working on the killing floor were neither paid wages
8
Original arcticle can be found at
http://www.japantimes.co.jp/life/2015/08/14/food/
wagyu-stake-craftsmanship-marginalized-slaughterhouse-workers/
AWA
NEWSLETTER
SEPTEMBER
2015
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A to Z Feeders
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Mishima Reserve Wagyu Beef
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Agri Beef
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Morris Stock Farm
contact Joe Morris 806-922-5274
Imperial Wagyu Beef
contact Lawrence Adams 402-426-8512
Raines Farm, LLC
contact J.R. Hayden 318-791-9402
* If anyone else is in the market for stocker calves, feeder calves or fats just send us an e-mail with
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9
AWA
NEWSLETTER
SEPTEMBER
2015
GETTING TO KNOW THE WAGYU CATTLE BUYERS
from the editors desk - Paul Redner
Every month we take a look at those individuals and
companies that have offered to buy your cattle. This list
is a regular part of the Wagyu Newsletter.
This month we’re featuring Mishima Reserve Luxury
Beef. This company, owned by Shane Lindsay and
Kurt Dammerier, is part of the Sugar Mountain family
of businesses.
Sugar Mountain operates Mishima Reserve Beef,
Beecher’s Handmade Cheese, and operates several
restaurants and retail food outlets in the Seattle area.
The operation revolves around twenty or so
Angus/Wagyu F-1 producers in the West and Southwest
providing all natural calves that are shipped to Colorado
for feeding, processing, and shipping of the boxed beef
product. The Colorado operations are all top of the line,
which shows the well run and transparent operation
that Shane has set up. From inspection of the supplier’s
ranches, to photos of each carcass everyone knows
exactly what they’re in for.
Mishima Reserve is well poised to serve the
burgeoning Wagyu business, insuring the very best
of Wagyu reaches the marketplace.
Shane Lindsay is the face of the Mishima operation.
Shane has a rich history in the beef business,
specifically with the Wagyu end of the business. The
fact that he was ranch raised is a start, but combining
that with a degree in economics from Hiroshima
University set him up to become a leader in the Wagyu
industry. Shane has risen to the challenge and has set up
a completely functional calf to plate operation.
10
AWA
NEWSLETTER
SEPTEMBER
2015
11
AWA
NEWSLETTER
SEPTEMBER
2015
Sponsors
American
12
AWA
NEWSLETTER
SEPTEMBER
2015
CALIFORNIA WILDFIRES
from the editors desk - Paul Redner
We’ve all been aware of the wildfires literally sweeping
California and the tremendous damage they’ve been
causing. The San Andreas fire, which at last report had
consumed 67,000 acres, had a very direct effect on one
of our members. Glenn Nakagawa and his wife Keiko
were directly affected by this fire. At 3:30 last Friday
morning they were roused from their beds and called
upon to abandon their house in advance of the
building wildfire.
For the past week they’ve been staying with friends and
hoping that their home would be spared. Well today
they got the good news that their home was spared, and
not by accident. Glen, in order to provide more grass
for his Wagyu herd, was clearing brush from his
property and that effort paid off handsomely. In his
immediate area their are or were ten homes, seven of
which were total losses.
Most of us live in the country and vegetation near our
houses is often a reality of where we live but it doesn’t
have to be. Take a look around your place and take
appropriate action. If you don’t you can bet your
insurance company will.”
13
AWA
NEWSLETTER
SEPTEMBER
2015
SEPT. 11, 2015
West & Northwest
CO
wts
9-10
8-9
7-8
6-7
5-6
4-5
8-9
7-8
6-7
5-6
4-5
util
cn/cut
bulls
MT/WY
STEER
CA
NV/UT
Central
WA/OR
AZ/NM
/ID
TX
193-198
202-207
216-222
226-235
244-255
274-286
192-201
201-209
213-221
225-236
243-255
266-285
178-183
187-192
200-206
217-226
237-248
271-283
177-183
186-193
199-206
216-225
234-247
270-282
177-189
186-198
199-213
215-225
231-246
258-281
176-184
186-194
198-207
214-226
232-246
267-283
wts
9-10
8-9
7-8
6-7
5-6
4-5
188-193
201-207
211-220
223-234
247-259
187-195
196-206
210-220
222-233
243-258
177-182
190-196
197-206
215-226
236-248
176-183
189-196
196-207
214-226
235-247
176-184
189-198
195-211
212-224
234-247
176-184
188-197
196-208
213-227
233-248
8-9
7-8
6-7
5-6
4-5
HEIFER
COWS
95-105 89-102 98-106 98-106 92-104 97-106
91-101
86-99 92-100 90-100 89-99
88-99
122-132 121-134 119-132 117-131 117-130 117-137
util
cn/cut
bulls
West — Feeder cattle prices were mostly firm,
rising $1 to $3 higher. Calf prices were mostly
$2 to $3 higher. Slaughter cow prices were
$1 to $2 lower. — Chad Spearman
KS/MO
STEER
DON’T FORGET...
14
2016
National Western Stock Show
Denver, CO
NCBA Trade Show - San Diego, CA
NE
OK
IA
AL
186-190
196-200
205-210
213-220
230-240
253-265
186-194
196-204
210-215
218-230
238-252
266-280
199-204
207-212
217-223
230-239
250-261
271-283
198-203
206-211
216-222
229-238
249-260
270-282
190-194
198-202
210-215
217-224
232-242
268-280
197-202
205-210
215-221
228-237
248-259
269-281
wts
9-10
8-9
7-8
6-7
5-6
4-5
180-184
188-193
193-200
202-212
228-240
182-186
192-197
204-211
214-230
228-248
193-198
199-205
214-223
225-236
249-261
192-197
198-204
213-222
224-235
248-260
182-186
194-199
205-212
208-218
234-246
195-200
197-203
212-221
223-234
247-259
8-9
7-8
6-7
5-6
4-5
HEIFER
COWS
96-106 102-110 99-109 97-107 100-110 97-107
94-104 93-108 94-104 92-102 97-105 92-102
125-132 124-135 119-129 123-133 124-134 123-133
Central —Feeder cattle prices were narrowly
mixed for the week from $2 higher to mostly
$2 lower. Calf prices were mostly steady.
Market cows were $2 to $3 lower.
— Troy Applehans
DATES TO REMEMBER
2015
AWA conference - Ocala, Fl
Prime Time in the Sunshine
Hosted by JDA - Ocala, Fl
NWSS Entry Deadline
ND/SD
Southeast
Oct. 21-23
Oct. 24
util
cn/cut
bulls
AR
FL
GA
LA/MS
KY/TN
180-184
189-193
198-203
209-216
218-228
256-268
183-187
192-196
206-211
213-220
226-236
253-265
176-180
184-188
195-200
206-213
213-223
255-267
180-184
188-192
199-204
209-216
215-225
256-268
180-184
188-192
198-203
208-215
215-225
253-265
184-188
190-194
200-205
208-215
217-227
244-256
175-179
185-190
194-201
194-204
212-224
180-184
190-195
198-205
205-215
223-235
171-175
181-186
190-197
193-203
211-223
175-179
185-190
193-200
195-205
212-224
175-179
185-190
193-200
195-205
213-225
177-181
189-194
190-197
208-218
223-235
STEER
HEIFER
COWS
101-106 96-104 94-104 95-105 95-105 97-107
92-97
94-101 92-99 93-100 85-95 94-102
121-127 120-130 128-135 129-136 124-134 122-132
Southeast — Feeder cattle prices were
steady to $2 lower for the week. Calf
values were $2 to $5 lower. Market cows
were steady to $2 lower. — Troy Applehans
COMEDY CORNER
Luxury leather
seating
eco-friendly
Steering
exhaust system
GPS
Oct. 31
All natural
fuel system
Jan. 18-23
Jan. 27-29
Rear suspension
Brake assist
4x4