Bi-national Circuit - Patagonia por descubrir

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Bi-national Circuit
Capitan Prat Province of Aysén,
Chile & Santa Cruz Province of
Argentina
Escape the ordinary, journeying
a Patagonia, still undiscovered.
Written and Illustrated by Dr. Trace Gale
w w w. u n d i s c ove r e d p a t a g o n i a . c o m
GUIDE TO AN UNDISCOVERED PATAGONIA
Undiscovered Patagonia was
created by Patagonians.
It is a collection of hundreds of stories, places, legends, knowledge, and
flavors. A resource and personal guide that provides the tools and context
for an amazing journey.We invite you to leave behind the increasingly
frenetic pace of modern-day life. Discover a place where slowing down
permits the discovery of marvelous, unexpected experiences.
Funding for this project was provided from the
Aysén Regional Government (GORE) Innovation
Fund, program N˚30108949-0. No part of this
book may be reproduced in any form, or by any
electronic, mechanical, or other means, without
permission in writing from the publisher. The
project was developed under the leadership
of the Research Center for the Ecosystems of
Patagonia (CIEP). Valuable support was provided
by the professional tourism organizations within
the Capitan Prat Province of Aysén, Chile, and
the Santa Cruz Province of Argentina, as well as
from the Aysén, Chile, Regional Offices of the
National Tourism Service (SERNATUR), the Aysén
Territorial Integration Program of the National
Economic Agency of Chile (PTI - CORFO), and
the National Forestry Corporation (CONAF).
This book was written and illustrated by Dr. Trace
Gale, a Resident Investigator in the Department
of Sustainable Tourism of CIEP, tracegale@ciep.cl.
Trace is a native of the United States of America.
She adopted the Aysén Region of Chile as her
home more than a decade ago. Her work centers
on helping local destinations tell the world their
unique and special stories through Sustainable
Destination Development and Management. Her
leadership and vision are reflected by both the
printed and web-based outcomes of this project.
The Spanish version of the text was translated and
edited by Anabel Reis, anabel.reis@ciep.cl. Born
in France, the Aysén Region is also her adopted
home. Anabel moved to the Region to assist with
Territorial Integration and Productive Tourism
Development. After building successful programs
with CORFO, she joined the CIEP family and is
now the Coordinator of the Sustainable Tourism
Department and the Manager of the Center.
Content was informed by the results of visitor
studies, which examined the motivations,
experiences, doubts, and desires, of three test
groups of travelers who planned and traversed
the circuit in late 2011 and early 2012, during the
investigation phase of the project. Special thanks
to the University of Montana in Bozeman, USA
and the early contributions of Dr. Keith Bosak and
his students. Numerous and invaluable chapter
contributions were provided by Chilean Travel
Writer and Photographer, Evelyn Pfeiffer. Creative
assistance was provided by Patrick McGarry
of West Virginia University, Morgantown, USA;
Cristian Solis, owner of GeoSur Expediciones, a
regional tourism provider, and Rodrigo Merino, a
project manager within CIEP. Technical guidance
and editing were provided by the Guide’s School
of Patagonia, Ian Farmer, Lee Gale, Lilli Schindele,
and Hernan Velásquez.
Design, baseline maps, logos, and development
support were provided by SURDIGITAL Ltda.,This
local Service Provider also provided the developed
the on-line platform which complements this text.
Photographic credits are attributed under each
photo in the text.
© 2012, Centro de Investigación en Ecosistemas de la Patagonia (CIEP). All rights reserved. Published
by the Centro de Investigación en Ecosistemas de la Patagonia (Research Center for the Ecosystems of
Patagonia) - CIEP, Ignacio Serrano 509, Coyhaique, Chile. www.ciep.cl.
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Table of contents
Guide to an Undiscovered Patagonia
4Introduction
• A note to prospective visitors.
• How to Use this Guide.
• The Route of the Circuit.
• Map of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit.
11
Chapter 1: Planning for Safe Travels.
29
Service Directory Before & After the Circuit.
37
Chapter 2: Meander within
the Patagonia Grasslands (188.5 Km).
• Section 1A: Cochrane - Patagonia Park Visitor Center (28.2 Km).
• Section 1B: Patagonia Park Visitor Center - Casa de Piedra Camping Area (26 Km).
• Section 1C: Casa de Piedra Camping Area - Chilean Military Post (32.7 Km).
• Section 1D: Chilean Military Post - Ghio Lake & Suyai Estancia Sector (33.3 Km).
• Section 1E: Ghio Lake & Suyai Estancia Sector - Bajo Caracoles (68.3 Km).
98
Service directory for Stage 1.
113Chapter 3: Follow the Sun through Austral Steppe (605 Km).
• Section 2A: Bajo Caracoles - Crossing RN 40, RP35, RP37, Las Horquetas Sector (101 Km).
• Section 2B: RN 40, RP35, RP37, Las Horquetas Sector - Gobernador Gregores (117 Km).
• Section 2C: Gobernador Gregores - Crossing RP27, RN288 (115 Km).
• Section 2D: Crossing RP27, RN288 - Tres Lagos (148 Km).
• Section 2E:Tres Lagos - El Chaltén (122 Km).
150
Service directory for Stage 2.
171 Chapter 4: Traverse the Andes to the Ice Fields (123.5 Km).
• Section 3A: El Chaltén - Northern Shore of Laguna/Lago del Desierto (44.6 Km).
• Section 3B: Northern Shore of Laguna/Lago del Desierto - Candelario Mansilla (20.5 Km).
• Section 3C: Boat travel, Candelario Mansilla - Villa O’Higgins (58.4 Km).
207
Service Directory for Stage 3.
219
Chapter 5: Dwell within Glaciers,
Fiords, and Rivers (274.7 Km).
• Section 4A:Villa O’Higgins – Camp Pioneer (43.1 Km).
• Section 4B: Camp Pioneer – Puerto Bravo Dock at Mitchell Fiord (55.2 Km).
• Section 4C: Puerto Bravo Dock at Mitchell Fiord - Caleta Tortel (51.4 Km).
• Section 4D: Caleta Tortel - Los Ñadis Sector (80.7 Km).
• Section 4E: Los Ñadis Sector – Cochrane (44.3 Km).
272
285
Topic Index.
3
INTRODUCTION
A note to prospective visitors.
This Circuit invites you to escape the ordinary, meandering
and exploring a Patagonia, still undiscovered.
Chilean flamingo (phoenicopterus chilensis). Evelyn Pfeiffer
Patagonia. Majestic mountains, glaciers,
crystal clear waters, ancient forests, and
immense Grasslands that stretch as far as
the eye can see. Pacific fiords filled with
thousands of unexplored islands, dominated
by rainforests and wildlife. Landscapes and
weather that refuse to be tamed.
Local villages, full of stories, music, art, and
the daily life of peoples who are forging a
connection with these remote and isolated
landscapes; a connection that depends on
their love of a place and the ability to be
self-dependent, resourceful and above all,
patient.
Within the following pages and our website,
you’ll find information and tools to help
you plan a unique journey through the
small towns and natural areas of Patagonia,
which form the Undiscovered Patagonia
circuit. We share ways to explore and meet
people, learn about what life is like here,
navigate your way through our trails, waters,
and back roads, and truly immerse yourself
in this incredible region we call home.
The Undiscovered Patagonian Circuit is
constantly growing and evolving, in keeping
with Patagonia herself. To keep up with the
changes, we need your support. If you’ve
ever tried to plan a trip to Patagonia, you
know that accurate and reliable information
is hard to find! That’s because until this
project, the amazing experiences that
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comprise this Circuit had never been
formally compiled in a clear manner so
that they could be shared in guidebooks or
websites. And every day, the small businesses
involved in this Circuit are thinking about
ways to improve their experiences and
offer new services. So, being a new circuit
in an area of the world that it only recently
opening its doors to tourism, we know that
a lot of information will change between the
printing of this first edition and the next.
Our commitment is to keep the on-line
tools at www.undiscoveredpatagonia.com,
updated and as complete as possible. So, as
you plan and travel, be sure to check for
new content and news.
And after your trip. Our wish is for
you to leave Patagonia with new
friends, great memories and tons
of pictures and videos! Start a blog
and join our on-line communities in Twitter,
Facebook, You-Tube, and our own platform,
www.undiscoveredpatagonia.com. Your
contributions help us improve our data and
recommendations, complementing their
content with your expert advice on what
you like and what we need to improve. So
please, tell us and other travelers, about
your amazing experiences and adventures!
Thanks for visiting us and sharing
our Undiscovered Patagonia!
INTRODUCTION
How to Use this Guide.
This guide is divided in five main chapters. At the
beginning of each you will find a complete list of the content,
which is divided into short, easy-to-read articles.
Chapter 1 helps you get ready
for your adventure. It provides
advice to help you plan a safe and relaxing
trip, guiding you through the selection of
your transportation and preparing you to
explore the remote areas of the Circuit.
Chapters 2-5 provide the tools to
create your unique adventure. The
Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit is divided
between four main Stages. Each Stage is
comprised of various Sections, eighteen
in total. These can be biked or driven in a
single day. Each Chapter focuses on one of
the four main Stages of the Undiscovered
Patagonia Circuit, detailing the route and
adventures. First, you’ll find a brief summary
of the Stage and its Sections; along with
maps for the route. Then, you will find a
series of short articles, providing all the
details for “must-see” adventures and
experiences within the Chapter’s Stage.
Arranging your tourism services.
There is a comprehensive Tourism Service
Directory at the end of each Chapter. This
will help you arrange and reserve your
travels. We provide listings for Banking
Services, General Tourism Information,
Safety and Health Care Providers, Postal
Services, Transportation Providers and
Services, Lodging, Gastronomy and
Activities. Chapter 1 provides the details for
the Services you’ll need Before and After
the Circuit. The final pages of each of the
remaining Chapters provide geographically
relevant Directories for each of the 4
Stages, and 18 Sections. These Directories
are an important tool that will enable
you to match the articles and activities of
each Chapter with the companies and
organizations that can support your journey.
This is your guide! YOU play the
fundamental role. Pick and choose between
the articles that grab your interest. They will
help you plan a personal itinerary, tailored to
your style, time, budget, and dreams. We’ve
left you plenty of places to jot down notes
and new discoveries. Sketch in the margins.
Write a review for Trip Advisor. Whatever
suits your style.
Understanding the Symbols and
Tools: There are a number of symbols,
abbreviations and tools within the guide.
For example, we refer to Kilometers using
Km, and Meters with m. We have included
the scientific names for native flora and
fauna, in parentheses and italic fonts, after
their common names in the text. Currency
is described in Chilean Pesos (CLP),
Argentinean Pesos (AR) , and at times,
US Dollars (USD). The prices are offered
as references and are often not precise.
Confirm final rates and payment terms, at
the time of reservation.
Within the Service Directory Sections, you
will find common abbreviations including “f/
which we have used as a shortened form of
for”, “baths for bathrooms”, “& for and”, etc.
If you can’t find what you are
looking for, within the listings of
articles, check the Subject Index
at the end of the book.
5
INTRODUCTION
The Route of the Undiscovered
Patagonia Circuit.
The Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit is divided between four main
Stages. Each Stage is comprised of various Sections, eighteen in total.
These can be biked or driven in a single day. Our recommendations
for traveling the circuit are based on the feedback and stories we have
received from visitors, describing their incredible experiences.
Evelyn Pfeiffer
The Route of the Undiscovered
Circuit. The Undiscovered Patagonia
Circuit is comprised of approximately
1,190 Km, an amazing exploration along
the highways and back roads of the most
pristine and remote sectors of Patagonia;
the Capitan Prat Province in Chile and
the Santa Cruz Province in Argentina. The
circuit is organized around four Stages,
based on the prevailing ecosystems each
crosses: 1) The Patagonian Grasslands, 2)
the Austral Steppe, 3) the Andes, to the
Southern Ice Field, and 4) an endless array
of Glaciers, Fiords, and Rivers.
The Circuit begins in the town of Cochrane,
Chile. When you arrive in town you will find
many opportunities to relax and enjoy your
new surroundings. When you have taken
them in, you will be ready to set out and
discover. The first Stage, Meander within
the Patagonian Grasslands (188.5 Km),
winds through the Patagonia Grasslands
of the Chacabuco Valley, a cool temperate
Grassland ecosystem which provides the
transition from the lush deciduous forests
that border the fiords and the cool arid
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desert Steppe in Argentina. There are a
total of five Sections within this Stage. The
second stage, Follow the Sun through the
Austral Steppe (603 Km), takes you deep
within the sun-filled, arid desert Steppe of
Argentina, traveling through the Santa Cruz
Province from Bajo Caracoles to El Chaltén,
including hikes in Los Glaciares National
Park. Again, Stage 2 features five Sections.
The third stage, Traverse the Andes to the
Ice Fields (123.5 Km), is the shortest of
the four stages; with only three Sections.
However, for most, this Stage offers the
biggest adventure, with a back country
Border Crossing that offer you choices of
combining biking, hiking, boat rides, 4x4s,
horses and a spectacular grand finale visit
to the O’Higgins Glacier, originating in the
Southern Patagonian Ice Field. The final
stage invites you to slow down a bit and
Dwell within Glaciers, Fiords and Rivers
(274.7 Km), as you leisurely make your
way back to the starting point. Within its
final five Sections, you will traverse high
mountain passes, hanging glaciers, the fiords
of the Pacific, lush native forests and raging
rivers.
Each of the Sections of the Stages were
based on the kilometers that can be traveled
by bicycle in one day. If you are traveling in
a motorized vehicle, you may be tempted
to combine Sections, covering several in
one day. This approach is absolutely feasible;
however, if your time allows, we encourage
you to travel slowly, uncovering the secrets
and treasures of each Section at a pace that
allows you the time to relax. Side of road
camping is still quite common in Patagonia;
thus, while many are not within formalized
Campgrounds, each Section ends in a place
where you can camp.
We have talked to a number of travelers
who have explored the Circuit. They note
many advantages in starting from Cochrane
and crossing the Patagonia Grasslands
toward the Argentinean Steppe. First, as
Cochrane provides you valuable options
for final logistics and supplies. Then, after
crossing east, you will travel south through
Argentina’s vast desert-like landscape, with
the wind at your back. Mid-way through,
you’ll be able to pamper yourself, taking
time to fully enjoy the city of El Chaltén,
with its incredible views of Mt. Fitz Roy,
numerous trails, and groovy outdoor scene.
Finally, travelers tell us they love returning
to Chile to “slow down” and finish their
trip immersed in the greens and blues of
the ancient forests, glaciers, fjords and rivers
that comprise the final Stage.
Of course, there are no hard-fast
rules! Follow your spirit and meander
through the Circuit in the way you prefer.
Join or skip Stages and Sections, depending
on the time you have available, your budget,
and your modes of transportation. The only
rule is that you travel in the direction that
best suits your dreams.
Getting Here. To get to Cochrane,
Chile, the recommended start point for the
circuit, you can fly into Balmaceda Airport
(BBA), Chile, traveling nationally, from the
cities of Santiago and Puerto Montt. From
the airport, you can rent a car (4x4s are
suggested) or hop a transfer and head into
Coyhaique, the Regional capital (58 Km). In
Coyhaique, you can arrange transportation
for your adventure; there are bike rental
outfitters, bus terminals, and several local
guiding services which provide full-service,
including transportation and coordination
of all your logistics (recommended).
You’ll travel 345 Km south, along the
Carretera Austral (Route 7), through
amazing landscapes and small towns,
which offer interesting side excursions
along the route. These include, in order
of passing, Cerro Castillo, home of the
Cerro Castillo National Reserve, Puerto
Tranquilo, home of the Capillas de Marmol
and gateway to the Exploradores Glacier
and San Rafael Lagoon National Park, and
Puerto Bertrand, origin of the Baker River.
Arriving in Cochrane, you will find a variety
of welcoming options for accommodation,
food, and adventure.
If you prefer to start the Circuit in Argentina,
the routes will depend on where you start.
From the north, follow National Route 40
and Begin the circuit at the start of the
Second Stage, in Bajo Caracoles. From
the Atlantic coast or El Calafate, head to El
Chaltén, where you can join the Circuit at
the end of Stage 2, in Section 2E.
When to Come? The best months are
November through April, if your dream
includes completing the entire Circuit,
including Stage 3, which crosses the Frontier
between Argentina and Chile in the backcountry. The rest of the Circuit can be
visited whenever your time allows!
We hope that after your trip, you’ll also
share stories, experiences and lessons,
so that we can constantly improve the
information we provide and the quality of
our services.
¡Buen viaje!
7
INTRODUCTION
Map of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit.
Patrick McGarry
CHAPTER 1
PLANNING FOR SAFE TRAVELS
PRE & POST CONSIDERATIONS
UNDISCOVERED PATAGONIA CIRCUIT
LIST OF ARTICLES
CHAPTER 1: Planning for Safe Travels.
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The fundamental philosophy for travel in Patagonia? Self-sufficiency.
15
Consideration, prevention and management of risk and accidents during your trip.
17
Driving the roads of Patagonia on your own.
20
Bike touring along Patagonia roads.
22
How to travel the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit using Public Transportation.
24
Communication and medical services.
27
Thinking of traveling with a pet?
The fundamental philosophy for
travel in Patagonia? Self-sufficiency.
The Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit travels through remote areas of
Patagonia where the services and infrastructure are basic. It is important to
adopt a self-sufficient philosophy to ensure a fun, comfortable and secure
experience. Planning and preparation are key factors.The steps include:1)
developing knowledge of the route and the activities you will be doing, and
2) preparing yourself, your equipment and your protocols ahead of time.
Patrick McGarry
Having the right knowledge is
important for a self-sufficient
trip. At least one person in your group
should have training in:
• Basic mechanics for the types of
transportation that you are going to
use, e.g.,changing tires, or chains, using
jumper cables, and checking oil and
water levels.
• Basic survival skills required for
obtaining safe shelter, fire, and water, as
well as orientation techniques.
• First aid knowledge, including
identification of life threatening
conditions, like hemorrhages,
hypothermia, heat stroke, asphyxia,
anaphylaxis, etc, and the capacity to
treat common discomforts like minor
cuts, mosquito bites, foot blisters, sun
burns, among others.
What if your group doesn’t have
the expertise? We suggest using a
professional guide or transport/logistic
service to assist your travels and provide
the specialized knowledge that will let you
concentrate on the fun!
Proper equipment and tools are
important when a problem arises.
We recommend that you prepare kits to
assist your problem solving. Kit contents
will differ from group to group, according to
your specific plans and means of transport.
Examples of the contents for a
Spare Parts Kit:
• For motorized vehicles: a Jack
for changing tires, lug wrench, spare tire,
fire extinguisher, air pump, 20 L spare
fuel tank, jumper cables, spark-plugs,
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fuses, and tools to change them, motor
oil, set of warning triangles, regular and
slip-joint pliers, flat and Phillips-head
screwdrivers, flashlight and batteries,
socket-wrench set, sizes 9 - 24, water
container, duct tape and thin wire.
• For bicycles: 2 inner tubes for each
bike and wheel size, a spare tire for
each bike and wheel size, patch kit and
glue, spare chain, full set of ball bearings,
full set of cables, spokes, chain rivets,
wrench set according to sizes, chain
breaker, regular pliers and slip-joint
pliers, adjustable spanner and Allen key
set, straps to secure the luggage, bolt,
screw-bolt and screws, oil and WD-40,
duct tape and thin wire, pump, flashlight
and batteries, and brake pads.
Examples of the contents for
a Survival Kit: A a plastic tarp, spare
sleeping bag, container for collecting water,
spare sleeping pad, lighter and matches,
spare tent, flashlight and batteries, spare
portable stove, 15 m (50’) cord, spare pot,
white gas, food supply for a complete day
for the group, pocket-knife, duct tape, and
large plastic trash bags.
Examples of the contents for
a First-Aid Kit:
Biosecurity & Personal Protection
Materials: Disposable gloves, plastic
bags, lighter or matches, note pad and pencil,
flashlight and batteries, wet hand-wipes,
first-aid manual, rounded scissors or Swiss
army knife.
Cleaning Materials: Clean water
(preferably sterile and distilled), liquid soap,
sterile sponges, and gauze bandages. It also
may come in handy to have tweezers to
remove stones or superficial thorns from
injuries.
Treatment
Material:
Povidone
iodine (liquid or foam), silver sulfadine
cream and furazolidone, sterile gauze
bandages, compresses, (2 to 3 cm wide)
and micropore, adhesive bandages, cotton
applicator.
Protection and Immobilization
Materials: Elastic, rigid and triangular
bandages to immobilize specific areas,
such as the neck or an arm. Immobilizing
materials can also be improvised, utilizing
sleeping pads, pencils, tools, paper rolls, etc.
Other: Any prescription medications
taken by travelers in your group, common
medicines for head-aches, fever, colds,
flu and diarrhea, after-sun lotion for sun
burns, re hydration salts or ionized water
for dehydration, moleskin for blisters, note
paper and a pen, and duct tape.
NOTES
Patrick McGarry
14
Consideration, prevention
and management of risk and
accidents during your trip.
Remote and wilderness area travel requires a positive attitude towards
unexpected situations, good adaptation skills and improvisation.This
article will help you understand and prepare for the risks that could
arise when traveling through the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit.
Patagonia is CHALLENGING!
Weather here is complicated; constantly
changing - in fact, as we always say, prepare to
experience all four seasons in one day! The
roads are in rough shape, communication
(phones and Internet) is hit or miss, and you
will likely encounter more local wildlife than
people. The Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit
passes through remote areas, far from
cities, mechanical services, fuel supplies,
and medical assistance. Infrastructure
development is basic; both along the
route and within population centers. These
challenges provide opportunities for unique
and rewarding experiences, in which you
will interact directly with the dramatic
landscapes of Patagonia, and perhaps, learn
a tip or two from her rugged, self-sufficient
inhabitants.
In fact, all adventures in natural and
remote places involve risks; which, often
result in unexpected changes to your
travel itinerary or route. Some of these
risks can lead to accidents; at times, with
serious consequences. It is important to
understand these risks and accept the
responsibility to manage them during your
travels. The following paragraphs present
three fundamental terms related with risk
planning and management. We suggest you
incorporate these terms and concepts into
your trip planning - with the goal of helping
you have a safe and amazing trip!
The first term you need to
understand is danger. Dangers are
the conditions and circumstances within an
environment that increase the possibility
of harm. There are two types of dangers;
Patrick McGarry
objective dangers, which are attributed to
nature, e.g., frozen roads, and anthropic or
subjective dangers, which are attributed to
individuals, e.g., speeding on frozen roads. It
is important to be informed and prepared
before traveling in Patagonia.
The second term to learn about
is Risk. Risk occurs when objective
and subjective dangers are present
simultaneously, creating the possibility
of an event that causes harm to people,
equipment, or the environment. Risks
can be anticipated and managed through
planning and prevention. After identifying
the dangers associated with your travel
plans, you should analyze the risks they
present and develop a plan for prevention
and management of the risks, during your
trip.
15
mechanical damage, etc.); 3) Loss of
essential equipment (medicines, bicycle); or
being arrested.
Please consider these concepts and
possibilities in your planning. Your
preparations should incorporate protocols
for how to obtain professional assistance
along the route and what to do if assistance
is not available. Also, it is important to
purchase adequate medical and emergency
evacuation insurance.
Your safe travel plans do not need
to be complicated or constrictive;
just effective.
Patrick McGarry
When a problem occurs and it
is not possible to continue your
activities without taking a series
of actions, this is considered an
incident, the third fundamental
term.
It is important to gauge the severity of
an incident so that you can determine
the appropriate and necessary response.
Minor accidents may require the treatment
of wounds or minor injuries, mechanical
repairs, help or advice, but, in a minor
accident, urgent medical attention is NOT
required, as the severity of harm does not
represent a danger to the life or physical
integrity of individuals. When an accident
is serious, it is not possible to continue
travel activities without taking a series of
immediate actions; that require professional
assistance. Serious accidents include all
medical conditions which put peoples’
health and well-being at risk, if professional
assistance is not obtained. The following
situations, while not life-threatening , are
also considered to be serious accidents: 1)
Loss of documents (passport, money, ID,
birth certificate, driver’s license, insurance
policy); 2) vehicle damage that is beyond
local repair (flipped vehicles, frame damage,,
16
All travels within remote and wilderness
areas require a positive attitude towards
unexpected situations, the ability to adapt,
and good improvisation skills. When
problems arise, the best resources and
tools are often available nearby, along the
road. No one knows this better than the
professional guides and drivers available to
support your travels. Beside lightening your
load, they provide specialized knowledge of
the dangers and risks present in Patagonia
and experience with incident response and
management.
Before you leave home it is
important to make a travel plan
and provide copies to friends and
authorities, detailing:
• Your itinerary. This should include
the dates and locations along your
planned route, accommodations, and
activities. Communicate any revisions to
“those in the know” about your travels.
• Participant personal data
list. This should include full names,
birth dates, passport or ID numbers,
permanent addresses, medical
conditions, and insurance data.
• Equipment & technical skills
of the group. This includes
knowledge and certification in first aid,
back-country skills, information about
who will do the driving, specialized
equipment, like Satellite phones, etc.
Driving the roads of
Patagonia on your own.
There are three main ways of exploring the Undiscovered
Patagonia Circuit; driving your own or a rental vehicle, bike
touring, and public transport. Here we present some important
considerations for driving the roads of Patagonia, on your own.
Driving the dirt roads of Patagonia
requires you to take some general
precautions and to drive slower
and more carefully. The surface of
dirt and gravel roads is not stationary;
conditions change constantly. Small stones
can build up, forming an unstable surface
in which speeding vehicles can skid. Rain
can form large puddles; for which, depth
is impossible to discern. Bumpy roads can
produce vibrations resulting in a loss of
control of the vehicle. Give yourself time to
stop, rest, and enjoy your adventure.
Services along the route are
limited. Fuel supply is essential and
must be considered before setting out. As
a general rule, fill up with fuel whenever
possible. Food supplies are also limited. We
recommend that you travel with enough
provisions for a complete day, taking
advantage of opportunities to resupply,
when you are in bigger towns.
Travel times are always longer
than expected. Estimate that you will
have an average speed of between 4570 Km/h (30-45 mph) for dirt roads. Plan
your itinerary according to this speed.
Be prepared for delays due to road
maintenance activities, detours or closures. In many sections, road signs are infrequent. Depending on the time of year and weather
conditions you encounter, it is very likely
that you will need to be prepared for driving
in snow and ice. We strongly suggest driving
a 4x4 vehicle equipped with chains and
other equipment for driving in these types
of situations.
You'll also want to watch out for
wildlife. It’s very probable that you will
round a corner and find yourself face to
face with cattle, sheep and horses. It’s just
as likely that you will encounter huemul
(hippocamelus bisulcus), guanaco (lama
Cody Stekley
17
guanicoe), a band of ñandú (pterocnemia
pennata) or maybe even a pudú (pudu
puda). Always be prepared for these
surprises by driving defensively. If you run
into cattle blocking the road, stop, beep your
horn and wait for them to pass. The same
is true with horses. If gauchos are moving
livestock, stop and allow them to control the
movement of the herd. If you encounter
wildlife, stop and observe. Please do not
harass them or beep your horn. These
animals are part of the natural heritage of
Patagonia and it’s up to all of us to protect
and care for them. It is especially probable
that you will encounter wildlife in the
following sectors:
• Just outside Cochrane, on the northern
side of town, CH
• The Rio Bravo Sector near Mitchell
Fiord, CH
• The Mountainous Pass on the way to
Yungay, CH
• The Caiquenes Lagoon Sector (Road
to Yungay), CH
• The El Vagabundo Sector (Road to
Caleta Tortel), CH
• Route 40, AR
• Valley Chacabuco, CH
• The crossing area between Lagoon/
Lake del Desierto and Candelario
Mansilla, AR/CH.
Before travel, check that your vehicle
is equipped with a functional jack, a lug
nut wrench or wheel nut wrench, a spare
wheel, and a fire extinguisher. Consider the
distances between the places you want
to visit. Carry extra food and fuel.. Before
leaving, ask about route problems at the
Police Posts. Make sure that equipment
is properly covered, tied and secured,
e.g., bikes, kayaks, luggage, and especially,
hazardous materials. To minimize bouncing
and discomfort, do not over-inflate your
tires when driving on gravel roads.
During travel: always drive with the
lights of your vehicle illuminated. Keep a
good distance from the vehicle in front of
you to avoid loose rocks, which may break
your windshield or mirrors. Be cautious
about the sides of the roads, gorges are
18
Keith Bosak
very frequent. Sometimes, it is helpful to
drive in the center of the road since it is
more solid; however, always remain in the
proper lane on uphill slopes, curves, and
other areas where you do not have good
visibility. Be a defensive driver. Pass only in
straight stretches with enough space and
good visibility. Always signal to announce
your maneuver. If another vehicle is about
to pass you, give way; slow down and give as
much space as you can.
In the event of mechanical
problems or minor accidents in
Patagonia, you can normally flag down
the first passing vehicle and they will give
assistance. It is important to know your
position in relation to help. Consider
whether is it more efficient to go ahead or
backtrack. Make sure that the position of
your vehicle does not represent a danger
for other travelers. Use warning triangles. If
you need to change a tire, secure the vehicle
with rocks or logs around the other tires
to be sure it remains stationary. Make sure
the jack is stable. If you run out of fuel, you
can often buy it from other drivers, farmers
and Estancias, or work crews in the route.
It is unlikely they will approach you and
offer fuel so, approach them and ask. If you
require a wrecker or assistance, remember
that services are limited and take time to
arrive. You will need to decide whether to
stay with your vehicle or leave it and go
for help. Factors to consider include the
severity of the situation, weather conditions,
your supplies and the spirit of the group,
in relation to the distance and the likely
wait time for assistance. In the event of an
accident, you are legally required to file a
police report (Constancia) in the nearest
Police Post. This is also a requirement of
insurance claims.
In the event of a serious accident,
implement the plans and protocols you
developed prior to your travels. Make
sure you have a plan and protocol for the
management of serious accidents. If other
options are not available, you can often
communicate with professional services via
UHF radio. Many rural homes and farms
are equipped with UHF radios that can help.
It is important to know the exact location of
your vehicle. Look for road signs indicating
the closest kilometer number, bridge names,
etc, and if you have a GPS, take a reading.
Note as many geographic references as
possible to help assistance services find you.
NOTES
Evelyn Pfeiffer
19
Bike touring along Patagonia roads.
There are three ways of moving through the Undiscovered Patagonia circuit:
traveling in private motorized vehicles, bike touring, and public transport.
Each offers distinct advantages and disadvantages along with special safety
considerations. In this article, we’ll talk a bit about biking through Patagonia.
bikes. Services along the route are limited.
In most communities, you will only find the
most basic services. Food supplies are also
limited. Carry enough provisions for at least
one or two complete days. Travel times are
always longer than expected and can vary
due to climate, road conditions, events, how
you are feeling, mechanical issues, etc. Wind
is a particularly important variable. Your
itinerary must allow for the flexibility of
these factors.
Evelyn Pfeiffer
One of the popular options for
traveling through Patagonia and
the
Undiscovered
Patagonia
Circuit is bike touring. There are
service providers in both Argentina and
Chile to support your trip with information,
rental equipment, maintenance and repairs.
You can even arrange for logistical support
who can travel with you, providing assistance
and breaks along the way.
Safe bike touring on dirt roads
requires some practice. The surface
of dirt roads is constantly changing, Small
stones may build up, forming an unstable
surface in which speeding vehicles and your
bicycle can skid. Rain can form large puddles
whose depth is impossible to discern.
Bumpy roads can produce vibrations
resulting in a loss of control of vehicles and
20
When traveling by bicycle it is very
important to always remember
to ride defensively. In Patagonia, there
are no bike lanes for cyclists and the sides
of the road are narrow to non-existent.
The roads are always full of adventure and
surprise. You might encounter dust, rain,
wind, blind curves, animals in the road, large
trucks, vehicles who drive in the center
of the road, etc. Maximize the chances
that other drivers will see you by wearing
reflective clothing, installing little flags, and
using flashing front headlights and reflectors.
Always keep to your right and be prepared
to get off the road to avoid collisions. On
hills and in curved areas, it is important
to always be visible from both directions.
Keep alert for livestock which often escape
their fencing and can behave unexpectedly.
You are also likely to encounter wildlife,
including
guanaco (lama guanicoe),
huemul (hippocamelus bisulcus), and ñandú
(pterocnemia pennata).
We suggest that you completely
take apart and reassemble your
bicycle, yourself, before the trip,
(even if it is rented). This is the best
way to familiarize yourself with the parts
and assembly and to prepare for dealing
with problems in the route. Also, there are
Cody Stekley
few places to buy spare parts or repair your
bicycle during your travels. Therefore, we
recommended to bring specialized parts
with you.
Before traveling, check your bicycle,
especially the chain, bearings, brakes and
tires. Make sure that your luggage is covered
and secured in the pannier or cart. Wear
high visibility clothing and reflective gear on
your bicycle. Wear suitable clothing, for the
weather conditions and the physical effort.
Eat and drink sufficiently, before setting out.
Pack high-energy foods and enough water
or liquids in a place that is easily accessible.
Plan your travel day around your distance
goals and the places you wish to visit. Apply
sunblock.
During travel, drink and eat enough
and frequently. Use sunblock regularly. Use
a helmet. Keep to your right. Be prepared
to get off the road to avoid collisions. In
curved areas and on ascents, it is particularly
important to always be visible from both
directions of the road. Downhill, especially
in bumpy roads, keep a low speed to avoid
losing control of your bicycle. Sometimes it
is better to walk. Be aware of animals in the
road. Check your luggage regularly.
problems or minor accidents: Make
sure that your position does not represent
a danger for yourself or other travelers.
When you repair your bike it is advisable
to look for shade or shelter from the wind,
sun, and other elements. Make yourself
comfortable and enjoy the experience, as
an opportunity to relax. In the event of
an accident with another vehicle, animal
or person, you must file a police report
(Constancia) in the nearest Police Post. This
is a legal requirement and a document you
will need for insurance claims.
If you need help, you can usually
flag down the first passing vehicle.
If you do not have mobile phone reception
or a satellite phone, you can often
communicate by radio. Many rural homes
and farms are equipped with UHF radios
that are able to contact assistance sources. If
you need assistance, are leaving equipment
or will need to return, it is important
to know the exact location. Take a GPS
reading and note any traffic signs indicating
kilometer numbers, bridge names, etc. Take
down as many references as possible to
help assistance services to find you.
In the event of a serious accident,
activate your emergency protocol. Before
traveling make sure you have a plan and
protocol for the management of serious
accidents.
21
How to travel the Undiscovered
Patagonia Circuit using
Public Transportation.
You can use public buses, transfers and ferries, to travel the route of the
Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit. In fact, for the crossings of the Mitchell Fiord
and O’Higgins Lake, it is the only option. Public transportation has its advantages,
disadvantages and special considerations. This article provides guidance and tips.
If public transportation is your choice, be
prepared for the realities of the experience.
When setting your expectations, it
is important to remember, the main
objective of public transport is not tourism,
but transportation. Moreover, public
transportation options in Patagonia are
very limited; and often are operating at
full capacity, filled by residents, tourists
and workers. Unless your schedule allows
several weeks for travel, the constraints of
public transportation schedules can be a
frustration. Be prepared to make sacrifices
in order to synchronize activities and plans
with the schedules between companies and
places.
On the other hand, public transportation
offers savings; both in terms of money and
carbon use. Normally, the drivers have
considerable experience with the route and
the road conditions in Patagonia. And public
transportation provides the opportunity
to relax and enjoy the incredible scenery
outside.
Before your travel, please refer to the
information we have provided on public
transportation providers within the Service
Directory section of this guide. Pre-book
the most popular routes. Notify the driver
about personal equipment, e.g., bicycles,
oversized bags, etc, so that you know there
is space and that your content will arrive
intact. Pack your bag or backpack as neat as
possible –loose and untidy things increase
the risk of lost or damaged belongings. Wear
suitable clothing according to the weather
conditions. Keep your essential travel items
handy. Make sure that you are carrying your
22
important documents and money with you;
do not leave them in your bag. Eat and
drink enough, and use the rest room before
setting out.
During your travels, we suggest
you obtain updated schedules, pre-book
your reservations, notify services if you
have special cargo, such as bicycles and
equipment, and be prepared for changes to
itineraries and conditions, delays, and even,
cancellations. This is especially possible
when taking boat transportation, as weather
conditions often close ports in this part of
the world. You can gather great information
about public transportation options in
your place of accommodation, restaurants,
tourist information offices, municipalities,
Police Posts (Retén de Carabineros in Chile,
Cámara El Chaltén - El Huemul Transfer
Puesto de Gendarmería in Argentina), and
of course, at the bus stations. Once onboard, relax and enjoy your travel. Take the
opportunity to talk with other travelers.
Watch your belongings. When the bus
stops, use the opportunity to stretch, use
the rest room, and take photographs.
problems, chauffeurs and bus drivers are
prepared. They are acquainted with fixing
issues and have a well developed contact
network along the route. So, if you have
a mechanical problem, relax and enjoy the
opportunity to get out, stretch your legs
and take some pictures. In the event
of a minor accident, give assistance as
requested. If you require help, make sure
that others are aware of this situation. Keep
your documentation handy. It is common
that the police ask for documentation from
passengers or persons injured in an accident.
In the event of an accident with another
vehicle, animal, or person, in which you
are injured or your equipment is damaged,
you must personally file a police report
(constancia) in the nearest Police Post; even
if the chauffeur chooses not too.. This is
required by law and for insurance claims.
Even though other parties are
responsible
for
the
driving
and management of
public
Rodrigo Merino
transportation, it is important to
be prepared for a serious accident.
Before traveling make sure you have a plan
and protocol for the management of serious
accidents. Gather contact information you
might need in the case of an emergency and
purchase adequate medical and emergency
evacuation insurance.
NOTES
23
The Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit travels through remote areas which are
far from cities, mechanical services, fuel supplies and medical assistance.This
article provides an overview of the health care service providers along the
route and tips for communicating in situations where you require assistance.
Should you be faced with a situation in which
someone in your group needs professional
assistance, you will need to know how to
communicate and where to go for help,
from the remote areas of the circuit.
Telephone communications
in Chile:
The country code for Chile is +56. Land
line telephone numbers consist of 6 digits
and cell lines have 8 digits. When in Chile,
dialing numbers in the Aysén Region of
Chile, the prefix for cellular lines is +09, and
the prefix for land lines: is +672.
The emergency numbers in Chile
are the following:
•
•
•
•
•
133 Police Emergencies (Carabineros);
131 Ambulance;
132 Fire;
134 Police Investigations
ONEMI (National Office of
Emergencies) – (0672) 215665
Many rural homes and farms, construction
and road repair companies, border posts
and municipalities communicate through
UHF and VHF radios. They manage their
own protocols. The best emergency contact
via radio in Chile is ONEMI. The call sign to
ONEMI is “echo once”. They provide 24hour assistance.
Cochrane, Chile
Cochrane has Internet, land lines and
cell service (provided by both Entel and
Movistar). Most lodging options offer
Internet for their clients, via WiFi. Internet is
also available in the public library, and from
Internet cafes. Cochrane has a hospital with four general
24
Evelyn Pfeiffer
medics who care for patients from the
towns of Caleta Tortel, Villa O’Higgins,
Puerto Bertrand, and surrounding areas.
In the event of accidents, the emergency
response protocol is activated through
the Cochrane Police (Carabineros), who
inform the hospital as soon as they arrive
on an accident scene. The hospital has two
ambulances equipped with paramedics. If
the patient’s condition requires transfer to
the Regional Hospital in Coyhaique, there
are two travel options: by plane (about 45
min.) or by ambulance (about 5 hours).
Near the Paso Roballos border crossing
you will find the Entrada Baker Police Post;
which, coordinates emergency responses
for the route through Valley Chacabuco.
Caleta Tortel, Chile
In Caleta Tortel, telephone and Internet are
available via cellular connection, provided
by Entel. The only land lines are within the
municipality and the Police Station. Internet
is available in the public library and in
the municipality (in event of emergency)
and many lodging facilities will have WiFi
through their cellular. Many smart phones
will also have access to Internet. There is
a Rural Health Post near the parking lot. Radio communications are common in
Caleta Tortel, often via Marino VHF radio,
using open channel 10. Tour and Lodging
operators and the Tourism Information
Office use this channel. The police and fire
department use other frequencies.
In case of emergency, the fastest way to
obtain assistance is through cellular or the
offices of the municipal government (“la
muni”). Call, radio, or go directly to the
municipal government offices located in the
central area of town, referred to as the Base
Sector of the boardwalks. To obtain a radio,
consult at any house or business. Other
assistance options include the Tourism
Information Center, the Police Post and the
Rural Health Post.
Villa O’Higgins, Chile
In Villa O’Higgins, there is mobile phone
reception (Entel), a Rural Health Post, and a
Police Station (Carabineros de Chile). Rural
Health Post paramedics and the police
coordinate emergency responses with the
hospital in Cochrane. According to the
severity, they decide whether to evacuate
the patient by plane to the regional hospital
in Coyhaique (about 1 hour and 15 minutes
with good weather) or via ambulance to the
hospital in Cochrane (3 - 5 hours). number: (02962) 000-000. If you are calling
from the same area code, you can simply
dial, 000-000. If you are dialing a land line
phone in Argentina, from outside Argentina,
begin with the international access code
(three digits; check with your service
provider), add 54 for the country code, 0
and the 4 digit area code, and the number
= 000 54 (02962) 000-000.
Cell Phones
All cell phone numbers start with a 15, e.g.,
(02962) 15 000-000. If you are dialing from
a cell phone to a cell phone you don’t need
to dial the 15, e.g., (02962) 000-000.
If you are dialing from a land-line to a cell
phone you must dial the 15, e.g., (02962) 15
000-000. If you are calling from the same
area code, e.g., 02962, you can simply dial,
15 000-000.
If you are dialing a cell phone in Argentina,
from outside Argentina, begin with the
international access code (three digits;
check with your service provider), add 54
for the country code, remove the 0 from
the area code, replace with a 9, then take
out the 15 before the number = 000 54
(92962) 000-000.
If you still experience problems, we suggest
Telephone communications
in Argentina:
Dialing a phone number in Argentina can
seem complicated. These simple tips will
help:
Land Lines
If you are dialing from a land-line to a landline phone within a different area code,
you must dial the local area code and the
Evelyn Pfeiffer
25
Bajo Caracoles, Argentina
In Bajo Caracoles, you can find a mechanic,
basic provisions, and a public phone, which
is located in the Bajo Caracoles Hotel. The
closest bigger city is Perito Moreno, 128 Km
to the north, via Route 40, where there is a
district hospital.
Gobernador Gregores,
Argentina
In Gobernador Gregores, there is cellular
service, land line service, and Internet. The
majority of lodging options offer WiFi for
their customers. There is a district hospital,
a fire department, and a police department.
El Chaltén, Argentina
Evelyn Pfeiffer
calling your service provider for further
assistance. Local Call Centers (Centros de
Llamadas) can also assist.
There are three prefix options for the
Santa Cruz Province. In the northern part
of the Circuit, including Hipolito Yrigoyen
(Lago Posadas), Perito Moreno, and Bajo
Caracoles, the prefix is +02963. In the
southern part of the Circuit, including
Gobernador Gregores, Tres Lagos and El
Chaltén the prefix is +02962. The prefix
for El Calafate is +02902.
Emergency numbers in Argentina:
•
•
•
•
101 Police
100 Fire
107 Hospital
These are toll-free numbers (including
from cellphones).
Hipólito Yrigoyen (Lago Posadas),
Argentina
There are land lines and Internet in Hipólito
Yrigoyen (Lago Posadas), but no cellular
phone signal. Some lodging providers offer
Internet to their guests. Health emergencies
are treated in the puesto sanitario, which is
equipped with medics, dentists and nurses.
Ambulances can transfer patients to the
district hospital in Perito Moreno, if required.
26
Land lines and Internet are available in
El Chaltén; however, there is currently
no cellular service. There are public call
centers and Internet cafés, and most lodging
services provide Internet for their guests.
Basic medical services are provided in the
Puesto Sanitario. More serious cases are
transported via ambulance to Gobernador
Gregores or El Calafate. There is a local
police department, a Justice of the Peace,
and the administration for the National Park
Service located in town.
NOTES
Thinking of traveling with a pet?
In Patagonia, traveling with pets is possible, but for many reasons,
it is not the norm. Before inviting your beloved four-legged friend
to travel with you, consider the difficulties involved with border
crossings, the rules of National Parks and Reserves, the probability
of an encounter with wildlife, and the limited services available.
We don’t recommend traveling
the
Undiscovered
Patagonia
Circuit with your pets. Consider that
in most places, you will need to walk your
dog or cat with a collar and leash. Pets are
not allowed in National Parks and Reserves
in Chile and Argentina, including the backcountry crossing between El Chaltén and
Villa O’Higgins. Therefore, if you want to
include visits to these places in your trip
you will need to plan a solution for the care
and transport of your pet. Most hotels do
not accept pets; therefore, you will need
to contact them in advance and make
reservations with those that agree to accept
your four-legged friend.
Some travelers opt to hire a driver / guide
who drops them off in El Chaltén and
reunites with them in Villa O’Higgins. The
driver transports vehicles, luggage and
potentially, pets. This is a possible solution;
however, your pet must meet the regulations
for international export and transport of
household animals. To cross the border
between Chile and Argentina with pets, you
need to remember the following policies:
Entering Chile with dogs and cats is
controlled by the Agricultural and Livestock
Service (SAG), whose role is to prevent
the introduction of communicable diseases.
SAG authorizes entry for household pets
provided that the animals meet applicable
health requirements. Owners must: 1)
present a Health Certificate issued by the
health authority of the country of origin for
the pet. This document must be in Spanish
and also in the language of the country of
origin (if other than Spanish). It must have
been issued no more than 10 calendar days
prior to travel. The certificate must show
that:
1. The animal underwent a clinical
examination by a veterinarian within
10 days of departure, and was
determined to be free of infectious
Daniel Torres
27
and parasitic diseases.
2. The pet was vaccinated against rabies
at least 1 month and less than 12
months prior to travel, or a test was
conducted to detect the presence
of antibodies against the rabies virus
(with minimum score of 0.5 IU / ml),
within the last 3 - 24 months.
3. The animal received an internal and
external broad spectrum anti-parasitic
treatment within 30 days prior to
travel.
Additionally, the certificate must include:
• Background information about the
owner and transporter (Name, ID,
Permanent Address),
• Background information for the
pet (vaccinations, examinations and
treatments), and the
• Address where you will stay in Chile.
If an owner fails to comply with the
documentation and certification requested,
the SAG is entitled to take sanitary measures
it deems appropriate. People, who leave
Chile with their pets for a period exceeding
21 days must also meet these requirements
upon their return. If people leave the
country for less than 21 days, they only
need to submit a copy of the export health
certificate and rabies vaccination certificate
or test that determines antibodies against
rabies virus, upon their return.
To enter Argentina with dogs or cats, the
Argentine government requires complete
information about the owner and the
animal (breed, sex, birth date, size, weight,
description of color and appearance
particulars of the pet), a rabies vaccination
certificate for animals over three months of
age and an exportation document issued
from the health authority official in Chile,
(SAG), certifying that, prior to shipment, the
pet has no signs of infectious or parasitic
diseases typical of the species. In case of
suspected pathologies, the National Animal
Health Service of Argentina, (SENASA),
has the right to determine the means to
ensure the isolation of the animal and take
sanitary measures. In case of other species
of pets, consult with SENASA about specific
requirements.
Cristian Solis
28
Service Directory for Before and After the Circuit.
Service Directory
Before & After the Circuit..
BANKING SERVICES
Banks & Automatic Teller Machines (ATMs)
Coyhaique, CH.
Along Condell, between the Plaza & Av Baquedano, there are a number of banks w/ATMs. There are
very few options for getting cash once you travel south; thus we suggest visiting an ATM or Exchange
House while in Coyhaique. Most banks accept international ATM network cards (CIRRUS, etc.),, &
VISA/MASTERCARD.
Turismo Prado Money Exchange
Coyhaique, CH, 22 de Mayo 417, (0672) 231271, ventas@turismoprado.cl.
This travel agency provides Money Exchange Services. (09h00-13h00 & 15h00-18h00, MondaysSaturdays).
ATM, Banco de Santa Cruz (Bank)
El Calafate, AR, Inside the International Airport “Comandante Armando Tola” (FTE), 23km
east of town, along RP 11.
The Banco de Santa Cruz (bank) has an ATM (Red Link) in the airport.
Thaler Money Exchange
El Calafate, AR, Avenida 9 de Julio, in the Paseo de los Pajaros gallery. (02902) 493245,
www.cambio-thaler.com.
This Money Exchange Agency is open Mondays-Saturdays 10h00 - 13h00 & 15h30-20h00, & Sundays
from 17h30-20h00.
GENERAL – TOURISM INFORMATION
Aumen Foundation
On the Internet at www.aumen.cl.
The Aumen Foundation is a Non-Governmental Organization (NGO), focused on the conservation
& management of fiscal lands & support of local communities; including the Laguna Caiquenes
Conservation Area, which is managed as a Conservation Area, used for protection, education,
research, & low impact, nature-based tourism.
Chamber of Tourism of Coyhaique, Tourism Information Kiosk
Coyhaique, CH, Corner of the Plaza of Arms (Yellow Kiosk), (0672) 211253,
www.aysenpatagonia.cl, info@aysenpatagonia.cl.
Provider of Tourism Information for the Region of Aysén, w/emphasis on the area in & around
Coyhaique & their members.
House of Rural Tourism Information Center
Coyhaique, CH, Corner of the Plaza of Arms (Yellow Kiosk), (0672) 524929 / 214031,
www.casaturismorural.cl, casadelturismorural@gmail.com.
The Rural Tourism House is a Tourism Information Center located in the city of Coyhaique, which
promotes their network of tourism service providers, the Regional Association of Rural Tourism.They
work all year, helping connect visitors w/rural families who offer services combining rural activities
& nature.
29
National Fishing & Aquaculture Service (SERNAPESCA)
Aysén Region, Puerto Aysén, CH, Eleuterio Ramírez N° 1423, (0672) 333134 / 333753,
www.sernapesca.cl.
Information on laws, regulations & practices for recreational fishing, w/an on-line portal in which you
can purchase licenses via the web.
National Forestry Corporation of Chile (CONAF)
Aysén Region, Coyhaique, CH, Av Ogana 1060, (0672) 212125 / 212225. www.conaf.cl.
The regional offices for CONAF can provide maps, brochures, & general information on the Region´s
Parks & Reserves (09h00-20h00 Mondays - Saturdays, 10h00-18h00 Sundays).
Padre Ronchi Works Foundation
Coyhaique, CH, (09), 85807576 / 95169088, www.fundacionronchi.cl,
memoriapadreronchi@gmail.com.
A non-profit foundation created in the Aysén region, w/headquarters in Coyhaique, whose main
purpose is to perpetuate, promote, & honor the memory & work that Padre Antonio Ronchi
developed in the Regions of Aysén & Los Lagos, Chile.
Tourism Information Office, Region of Aysén, National Tourism Service of Chile
(SERNATUR)
Coyhaique, CH, Bulnes 35, (0672) 231752, www.recorreaysen.cl, info@recorreaysen.cl.
Sernatur is the National Agency responsible for tourism development in Chile. Their Regional
Tourism Information Office (Mon-Fri 08h30-20h30, Sat-Sun 08h30-17h30) offers helpful advice
(multiple languages spoken), maps, brochures, & up to date bus information.
GENERAL – SAFETY
National Highway Department of Chile
CH, Internet Site: www.vialidad.gov.cl.
Website w/information on road conditions in Chile & the Region of Aysén, including construction.
National Office of Emergencies of Chile (ONEMI)
Coyhaique, CH, Freire 450, (0672) 215665, www.onemi.cl,
The National Emergency Office of the Ministry of Interior & Public Security, is Chile´s technical
agency responsible for the coordination of the National Civil Protection System. Its mission is to plan,
promote, coordinate, & implement preventive measures, response & recovery actions, relating to
public risk situations, emergencies, disasters & catastrophes, resulting from natural or human action.
General Administration of Roads for the Province of Santa Cruz
AR, Internet Site: www.agvp.gov.ar.
Web-based information for road conditions in the Santa Cruz Province of Argentina, including
construction projects.
GENERAL – HEALTH
Aysén Hospital Regional
Coyhaique, CH, Ibar 68, (0672) 219100, www.hospitalregionalcoyhaique.cl.
The only Complete-care Medical Facility within the health care network of the Aysén Region. Provides
safe, quality diagnosis & treatment, w/services for both preventative & emergency care. Emergency
room is open 24 hours a day, 7 days a week.
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J. Formenti Regional Hospital
El Calafate, AR, Julio A. Roca 1488, (02902) 491173.
Performs minor surgeries, & administers antibiotics & medications. 24 hour Emergency Services.
GENERAL – POSTAL SERVICES
Correos de Chile (Post Office)
Coyhaique, CH, Cochrane 227, (600) 502020.
Full service branch office w/office hours Monday - Friday, from 09h00 -13h30 & 15h00 - 18h00;
Saturday hours from 10h00 - 13h00.
GETTING AROUND – AIR TRANSPORT
Balmaceda National Airport (BBA)
Aysén Region, Balmaceda, CH, Carretera Austral, 58 Km from Coyhaique, in the small
town of Balmaceda, which sits on the border w/Argentina.
The Balmaceda (BBA) airport is located 58 Km from Coyhaique, the capital city of the Region
of Aysén. This small, but modern airport, is the major regional transportation hub for this part of
Patagonia. Major jet service from Santiago, Puerto Montt & Punta Arenas, via Lan Airlines & Sky
Airlines. There is a Tourist Information Booth in the airport, a small gift/snack kiosk, an ATM & a cafe.
In front of the airport you will find many shuttle services offering transfers to Coyhaique for about
$4.000 pesos. Several rental car agencies have offices in the airport.
LAN Chile Airline
Coyhaique, CH, General Parra 402, (0672) 231188, www.lan.com.
Several daily flights (most leaving in the morning) to Puerto Montt (CH$96.500+/-) & Santiago
(CH$203.000+/-) from the Balmaceda airport. Tip: Rates can be much lower if purchased in-country.
Sky Airline
Coyhaique, CH, Arturo Prat 203, (0672) 240827, www.skyairline.cl.
National Airlines w/itineraries between Santiago, Balmaceda & Punta Arenas, among others.
Don Carlos Air Transport
Coyhaique, CH, Subteniente Cruz 63, (0672) 231981.
Flies small aircraft to Villa O’Higgins (CH$36.000) on Mondays & Thursdays. Charter flights are
available to Caleta Tortel & Cochrane.
International Airport “Comandante Armando Tola” (FTE)
El Calafate, AR, 23 Km east of the town, along RP 11, (02902) 432232,
www.aeropuertoelcalafate.com.
The International Airport “Comandante Armando Tola”, (IATA: FTE, ICAO: SAWC) serves the city of
El Calafate, in the province of Santa Cruz, Argentina.The airport is located 23 km from the city center,
heading east. 3 Argentine airlines offer service from the airport (Southern Airlines, LAN Argentina
& LADE) to Buenos Aires, Bariloche, Ushuaia, & other national destinations. Also, the Chilean airline,
Aerovias DAP, operates charter flights to Puerto Natales & Punta Arenas, in Chile.
LADE Airline
El Calafate, AR, on the corner of Jean Mermoz 160 & Vcom. Marambio, (02902) 491262,
www.lade.com.ar, elcalafate@lade.com.ar.
LADE flies between Perito Moreno & El Calafate on Thursdays, each week. LADE also offers
connections between Esquel, Com. Rivadavia, Ushuaia, & Bariloche, amongst other destinations.
31
GETTING AROUND – BUS TRANSPORT
Buses Acuario 13
Coyhaique, CH, Municipal Bus Terminal, corner of Lautaro & Magallanes, (0672) 255726.
Buses Acuario 13 offers scheduled transportation between Coyhaique & Cochrane w/departures
most days. They also provide transfers between Cochrane, Villa O’Higgins, & Caleta Tortel, 2-3 times
a week. Confirm times & make reservations in advance by visiting their office in Coyhaique or
Cochrane, in person. In other communities, we suggest you visit the Tourist Information Office to
obtain updated schedules & details on how to make your reservations.
Buses Águilas Patagónicas
Coyhaique, CH, Corner of Lautaro & Magallanes, in front of the Municipal Bus Terminal,
(0672) 211288, www.aguilaspatagonicas.cl, contacto@aguilaspatagonicas.cl.
Buses Águilas Patagónicas offers scheduled transportation between Coyhaique & Cochrane w/
departures on alternate days.They also provide transfers between Cochrane,Villa O’Higgins, & Caleta
Tortel, 2-3 times a week. Confirm schedules & make reservations in advance by visiting their office, in
person, in Coyhaique or Cochrane. In other communities, we suggest you visit the Tourist Information
Office to obtain updated schedules & details on how to make your reservations.
Buses Don Carlos
Coyhaique, CH, Subteniente Cruz N° 64, (0672) 231981.
Buses Don Carlos offers scheduled transportation between Coyhaique & Cochrane w/departures on
alternate days. Confirm schedules & make reservations in advance by visiting their office, in person,
in Coyhaique or Cochrane. You can also visit the Tourist Information Office in either city, to obtain
updated schedules & details on how to make your reservations.
Buses Sao Paulo Coyhaique
CH, Municipal Bus Terminal, corner of Lautaro & Magallanes, (0672) 255726
Buses Sao Paulo offers scheduled transportation between Coyhaique & Cochrane w/departures on
alternate days. Confirm schedules & make reservations in advance by visiting their office, in person, in
Coyhaique or Cochrane. In other communities, we suggest you visit the Tourist Information Office to
obtain updated schedules & details on how to make your reservations.
Chaltén Travel Turismo
Coyhaique, CH Av. Ogana 1147, (0672) 246113, www.chaltentravel.com,
contacto@chaltentravel.com
From November 15 to April 4, Chaltén Travel offers bus service between El Calafate & El Chaltén, as
well as El Chaltén & points north, including Bajo Caracoles, Perito Moreno, Los Antiguos & Bariloche.
You can contact 1 of their offices (El Calafate, AR; El Chaltén, AR; or Coyhaique, CH), for details, days
of departure & arrival, & reservations. They are the only company specializing in Patagonia transfers
along the legendary Route 40, linking Bariloche, Perito Moreno, El Chaltén & El Calafate through a
journey of adventure & amazing scenery. Recently they have incorporated the renowned Carretera
Austral in Chile into their itineraries, linking the towns of Chile Chico, Chaitén & Coyhaique.
Coyhaique Bus Terminal
Coyhaique, CH, cnr Lautaro & Magallanes, (0672) 258203
Buses operate from the terminal where each bus line has a separate office & information posted
about their destinations & schedules. There are buses traveling throughout the region, to national
destinations north & south, & to Argentina. Schedules change continuously; it is best to go in person
for the latest information.
Buses Taqsa
El Calafate, AR, Avenida Libertador 1150, (02902) 492531, www.taqsa.com.ar
Buses Taqsa runs the entire stretch of RN 40 between El Calafate & Bariloche several times a week
beginning in late October, stopping at El Chaltén, Bajo Caracoles, Perito Moreno & Esquel.
32
Chaltén Travel Turismo, El Calafate
AR, Av. Libertador 1174, (02902) 492212 / 492480, www.chaltentravel.com,
contacto@chaltentravel.com
You can contact 1 of their offices (El Calafate, AR; El Chaltén, AR; or Coyhaique, CH), for details, days
of departure & arrival, & reservations. They are the only company specializing in Patagonia transfers
along the legendary Route 40, linking Bariloche, Perito Moreno, El Chaltén & El Calafate through a
journey of adventure & amazing scenery. Recently they have incorporated the renowned Carretera
Austral in Chile into their itineraries, linking the towns of Chile Chico, Chaitén & Coyhaique.
GETTING AROUND – CHAUFFEURS & TRANSFERS
Anulén Excursions
Coyhaique, CH, 21 de Mayo 417, (09) 95973403 / 65956553. turismo.anulen@live.cl
Anulén Excursions provides logistics & personalized tours in the Region of Aysén. They can help to
support your plans to travel the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit w/vans, support vehicles, & guides to
accompany your group. Contact them for a personalized quote.
Cabot Travel Agency
Coyhaique, CH, General Para 177, (0672) 230101, www.cabot.cl,
cabot@patagoniachile.cl
Travel agency offering a wide range of tourist services, from simple guided hikes to programs of 10
days or more. Cabot can help arrange rentals, reservations, & chauffeurs for the Circuit.
GeoTurismo Patagonia
Coyhaique, CH, José de Moraleda No. 480, (0672) / (09) 233439 / 66367733 /
83565342,
www.geoturismopatagonia.cl, info@geoturismopatagonia.cl
Personalized travel advisory service provided by a team of advisers who are familiar w/experiences
along the Carretera Austral & Route 40 in Argentina. They are Patagonians who’ve been to the lesser
known corners that you’ll have the opportunity to explore, providing advice to save you time & a
lot of worries.
Pura Patagonia Agency
Coyhaique, CH, General Parra 202, (0672) 246000, www.purapatagonia.cl,
info@purapatagonia.cl
Tell them about your interests & your budget, they’ll help you arrange the rest.... Pura Patagonia offers
customized services & itineraries to meet all your needs, both for individual travelers & for those
traveling w/a group of friends or relatives. Whether your group is small or large, w/Pura Patagonia you
have the opportunity to choose the locations you want to visit & build your own route!
T y T Tourism & Transfers
Coyhaique, CH, Calle Lord Cochrane 387, (0672) 256600, transfer@gmail.com
Door-to-door shuttle service (CH$4.000) to Balmaceda airport, 58km southeast of town, leaves 2
hours before flight departure. T & T also has chauffeurs that provide charter services & could provide
your transportation for the Circuit for a special fee.
Transfer Valencia
Coyhaique, CH, Lautaro 848, (0672) 233030, transfervalencia@hotmail.com
hours before flight departure. Valencia also has chauffeurs that provide charter services & could
provide your transportation for the Circuit for a special fee.
33
Transfer Velasquez
Coyhaique, CH, Los Cipreses 1970, (0672) 250413
hours before flight departure.
GETTING AROUND – RENTAL CARS
Automundo AVR Rentacar
Coyhaique, CH, Francisco Bilbao 510, (0672) 231621, wfritsch@patagoniachile.cl
Local rental car agency. Book in advance!
Budget Rental Car
Coyhaique, CH, Balmaceda Airport & in Coyhaique, Errázuriz 454, (0672) 255171,
www.budget.cl
International rental car agency w/airport pick-up / drop-off. Book in advance!
Hertz Rental Car
Coyhaique, CH, Balmaceda Airport, (0672) 231648, www.hertz.cl
International rental car agency w/airport pick-up / drop-off. Book in advance!
Traeger Rentacar
Coyhaique, CH, Baquedano 457, (0672) 231648, www.traeger.cl, contacto@traeger.cl
Rental car agency that offers emergency roadside assistance. Has their own mechanic shop & tow
trucks. Book in advance!
Turismo Prado Rental Car
Coyhaique, CH, 22 de Mayo 417, (0672) 231271, ventas@turismoprado.cl
This travel agency provides Car Rental Services. (09h00-13h00 & 15h00-18h00, Mondays - Saturdays).
Avis Rental Car
El Calafate, AR, Avenida del Libertador Gral. San Martín 1080 & in the International
Airport, 23km east of the town, along RP 11, (02902) 492877, www.avis.com.ar
Rental cars & 4x4 vehicles, a variety of models, drop-off & legal entry/exit w/Chile. We accept credit
cards. Airport & the City Center offices.
Hertz Rental Car
El Calafate, AR, Libertador 1822 y in the International Airport, 23km east of the town,
along RP 11, (02902) 493033, www.milletrentacar.com.ar
Free Unlimited Miles & Full Coverage Insurance available. Rental cars & 4x4s in El Calafate & across
the country. Airport & City Center offices. Discounts on Hotels, Restaurants & Shops.
GETTING AROUND - BICYCLES & OTHER ALTERNATIVES
Anulén Excursions
Coyhaique, CH, 21 de Mayo 417, (09) 95973403 / 65956553, turismo.anulen@live.cl
Anulén Excursions can help to support your plans to bike the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit w/
support vehicles & guides to accompany your group.You can rent equipment from their fleet of TREK
3700 bikes & accessories. Contact them for a personalized quote.
Evo Sports Store
Coyhaique, CH, 21 de Mayo 417, (09) 95973403 / 65956553, turismo.anulen@live.cl
Rentals & sales of TREK Bicycles & other equipment for bike touring & adventure sports.
34
Figón Bicycle Shop
Coyhaique, CH, Almirante Simpson 888, (0672) 234616, figon_bici@hotmail.com.
Figon Bicycle Shop rents bicycles & other associated equipment, provides repair services, & sells some
parts & accessories.
Pura Patagonia Agency
Coyhaique, CH, General Parra 202, (0672) 246000, www.purapatagonia.cl,
info@purapatagonia.cl.
Pura Patagonia offers customized services & itineraries to meet all your needs, including rental of
bikes, accessories, & provision of guides & support vehicles. They specialize in bike trips on the
Carretera Austral from Balmaceda or Coyhaique, until Villa O’Higgins.
La Barraca
El Calafate, AR, Emilio Amado 833, (02902) 491999, labarracacalafate@hotmail.com.
Bike Rental per hour & day. Rental of outdoor clothing, jackets, pants, boots, gloves, goggles, trekking
poles, hats, tents, sleeping bags, heaters & everything you need for camping. Special tours, like minitrekking, “everything glacier”, BIG ICE & visits to El Chaltén.
Patagonia Shop
El Calafate, AR, 9 de Julio 29, (02902) 492767,
www.facebook.com/patagoniashopcalafate.
Mountain Gear Store that sells & rents bikes & sports gear (footwear, apparel, accessories). Accepts
all credit cards. Get in touch through their site on Facebook. (Mondays – Sundays, 10h00 – 22h00).
NEW FINDS
35
Evelyn Pfeiffer
CHAPTER 2
MEANDER WITHIN THE
PATAGONIA GRASSLANDS
STAGE 1
LIST OF ARTICLES
CHAPTER 2: STAGE 1 - Meander within the Patagonia Grasslands.
38
40
Meander within the Patagonia Grasslands.
47
Cochrane has always been a city on the move.
50
Take a walk through Cochrane’s past and present.
53
Sip the flavor of Patagonia.
54
Heat up your journey.
56
Serving a perfect yerba mate starts with the water.
57
Check out beautiful views in Tamango National Reserve.
58
Support the critical work of the Tamango National Reserve.
60
Tips for hiking in Patagonia.
63
Explore the Tamango National Reserve with this day hike.
65
Planning your water-based activities in Patagonia.
67
Kayak the Cochrane River.
68
Land the big one on Cochrane’s waters.
69
Preparing for the climate of Patagonia.
70
Discover Patagonia with your kids.
71
Explore the Tamango National Reserve with this great multisport day-circuit!
73
Experience the Baker River.
75
Introducing Patagonia’s newest Park.
76
A new legacy for an ancient Valley.
78
Hiking in Valley Chacabuco.
79
A walk to the Cisnes Lagoon in Patagonia Park.
80
Walk the cemetery circuit in Patagonia Park.
81
Hike the Altas Lagoons circuit in Patagonia Park.
LIST OF ARTICLES
CHAPTER 2: STAGE 1 - Meander within the Patagonia Grasslands.
82
Celebrate the Route of the Huemul Festival.
83
Backstage with Hippocamelus bisulcus.
85
Backpacking through Huemul country.
86
Explore the Casa de Piedra Area in Patagonia Park.
88
Crossing borders between Chile and Argentina.
91
Back roads tour of the Austral Steppe.
93
Posadas, pastas, and petroglyphs await in Hipolito Yrigoyen.
95
Celebrate Argentina’s National Gnocchi Day.
96
Cooking on the road Argentinean style, “Gnocchi with Salsa Tuco”.
Patrick McGarry
39
CHAPTER 2: Stage 1 - Meander within the Patagonia Grasslands.
Overview of Stage 1 of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit.
The first Stage of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit, (188.5 Km), meanders
through the Patagonia Grasslands of the Chacabuco Valley. This cool temperate
Grassland ecosystem provides the transition from the lush deciduous forests
that border the fiords and the cool arid desert Steppe, in Argentina.
After exploring Cochrane and the many
activities nearby, you will begin your travel
through the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit.
The first Stage of the Circuit is divided into
five Sections, which can be traveled at
the pace you desire. This article describes
the route and each of the five Sections of
this Stage. The Sections can be traveled
by bike in a single day, assuming average
abilities and climate conditions, and end at
a place where it is possible to camp. For
motorized vehicles, it is possible to travel
through several Sections in a single day, in
accordance with your plans and preferences.
Evelyn Pfeiffer
40
Section 1A: Cochrane - Patagonia Park Visitor
Center (28.2 Km).
Leaving Cochrane, head north along the
Carretera Austral (Ruta 7), winding your
way through the mountains high above the
Chile’s powerful Baker River. Approximately
17 Km from the Plaza in Cochrane, you’ll
take a right along Route X-83, a transversal
road which meanders the length of Valley
Chacabuco. Most of the Valley is owned
by a non-profit conservation foundation,
Conservación Patagónica, which manages
the lands as Patagonia Park. Section 1A
ends after another 11 Km, upon reaching
the Administration Area of the Park. This
first Section totals 28 Km and has some
fairly steep elevation changes in the first 17
Km, leveling off when you enter the Valley.
The journey offers great photography
opportunities; the turquoise waters of
the Baker River, the distant glaciers of the
Northern Patagonia Ice Fields and later, the
first shots of guanaco (lama guanicoe) and
other native wildlife. A stop in the Visitor
Center will help you to learn more about
the ecosystem of the Patagonia Grasslands
and the Park. There are great options
for hiking nearby and the Westwinds
Campground is only a brief distance from
the Administration Area.
41
Section 1B: Patagonia Park Visitor Center - Casa
de Piedra Camping Area (26 Km).
The second Section of this Stage travels
along Route X-83, one of the best kept
roads in the Region. You’ll travel through
an amazing valley, filled with Grasslands,
lakes, lagoons, and long, curving rivers.
You’ll depart from the Administration
Area of Patagonia Park heading due east
for 26 Km, ending at a sector called Casa
de Piedra (stone house), in honor of a
structure used by gauchos for their ranch
work, during the times when these lands
were an Estancia. In this sector, the Park
is developing a new camping area, Stone
House Campground, which is scheduled to
open in 2013. Located near the confluence
of the Aviles and Chacabuco Rivers, this
campground will serve as the jumping off
point for explorations in the Aviles Valley
and Jeinimeni mountains.
As you travel through this Section of
the Circuit, you will be immersed in the
ecosystem of the Patagonia Grasslands. As
you make your way, you will most definitely
be accompanied by the presence of herds
of guanaco (lama guanicoe). The guanaco
is commonly mistaken for a llama. In fact,
they are a separate species, although both
belong to same family (Camelidae). These
mammals roam the Grasslands and Steppe
of Patagonia in both Chile and Argentina.
Here in Patagonia Park they are protected
and you will find them in large numbers.
You’ll have the unique opportunity to
observe them as they move about their
42
habitat, uninhibited by fencing or dogs.
It is also likely that you will encounter
one of several varieties of fox or a hairy
armadillo (ahaetophractus aillosus), all
native to Patagonia, and a grand variety
of bird life. The combination of climate
and flora produce the perfect conditions
for many varieties of birds. For example,
while passing one of the many lagoons of
this zone, you might be lucky enough to
see the Chilean flamingo (phoenicopterus
chilensis), which is the largest member of the
flamingo family. It can be spotted because
Patrick McGarry
Patrick McGarry
of its bright pink coloration! You’ll also likely
spot Andean condors (vulture gryphus),
eagles (geranoaetus melanoleucus), kestrels
(falco sparverius), ruddy-headed geese
(chloephaga rubidiceps), flying steamer ducks
(techyeres patachonicus), and more!
Although hard to spot, some lucky visitors
might encounter the only large predator
of the Region, the cougar, or puma, as it is
known locally (puma concolor). The puma is
a legend in Patagonia, known for its quick
attack and stealthy lifestyle. It is typically
between 1 and 2 meters with a large tail
of up to 1 meter. A full-grown male puma
can weigh up to 90 kilos. Females tend to
be around 55 kilos. This large feline lives
a solitary life; it only interacts with others
during the short mating season.
• Move away slowly without turning away
from the animal. Always keep your
eyes on the puma.
• Talk to children in advance about
pumas and teach them how to act if
they encounter one.
• Take small children in your arms,
calming them to prevent panic or
sudden movement.
• Never approach a puma, especially if
they are feeding or with their young.
NOTES
A puma attack is extremely unlikely. It’s rare
that you encounter their tracks, much less
see them. However, as they are protected
within Valley Chacabuco and Patagonia
Park, there is a slightly higher chance of an
encounter; thus, you should consider these
tips:
• Do not walk alone or allow children to
stray away from you.
• Do not bring pets with you.
• In case of an encounter, do not panic
or run. Running away may facilitate an
attack.
43
Section 1C: Casa de Piedra Camping Area Chilean Military Post (32.7 Km).
Section 1C of the Circuit continues through
Patagonia Park; however, after approximately
10 – 12 Km, you will leave the Park and
pass through a series of private Estancias
and ranches. You are likely to note the
presence of livestock and more introduced
varieties of flora, once you leave Patagonia
Park. Conservación Patagónica has been
working actively for a number of years to
restore their Grasslands to a more natural
state, after more than 50 years of ranching
by former owners. They have removed the
livestock and fences from almost all of their
lands and are in the constant process of
removing introduced plants, replanting with
native grasses. While you will still spot native
flora and fauna throughout the rest of this
Stage of the Circuit, it will likely be in lesser
numbers and concentrations, as introduced
species tend to win the competition for the
natural resources of the zone.
The lush green valley you travel through
in this Section is the result of the climatic
conditions created by the warm air of the
Pacific constantly pushing up against the
mountain range separating the Grasslands
from the Steppe of Argentina. As this warm
air rises and meets the cooler air above, it
44
forms massive rain fronts which stall over
the mountains, dumping their rain on the
valley below. This dynamic provides the
valley with fresh rainwater and snow, year
round, promoting a more abundant and
diverse flora than that of the Patagonian
Steppe.
After traveling approximately 26 Km, you
will reach the Chilean Police Post for the
Paso Roballos border crossing. You will need
to conduct the transactions required on the
Chilean side of the border here. If you plan
on camping at the end of this Section it is
important to let them know, as the Section
ends between the Chilean and Argentinean
Posts. After completing the Chilean crossing
process, you’ll travel another 7 – 8 Km
before noting a road diverting to the left.
This road leads to a small Chilean Military
Post which monitors the border lands.
There is a small staff here and a gaucho who
is responsible for raising a flock of 1000+
sheep for military consumption. You can
camp near the road, where there is access
to a river and fresh water. In all areas of
the Circuit, unless specifically indicated, fire
is prohibited.
Section 1D: Chilean Military Post - Ghio Lake &
Suyai Estancia Sector (33.3 Km).
After traveling the first 4 – 5 Km of Section
1D, you’ll arrive at the Argentinean Military
Post, which is the Rodolfo Roballos crossing
point into Argentina. You’ll need to conduct
the Argentinean side of the border crossing
transactions before continuing your travels
along Provincial Route 41 (same road, new
name). You’ll quickly note that the area
on this side of the mountains does not
receive the same amount of rainfall. The
ecosystem is more arid, sandy, and desertlike; characteristic of the Patagonian Steppe.
Here, trees will virtually disappear, with the
exception of Alamos, or Poplars, and other
introduced varieties which are planted
to provide shelter from the winds. Small
thorny shrubs characterize the landscape,
along with tussock grass, a low lying grass
with a large intricate root system, enabling
its survival in places where water is
infrequent. The Patagonian Steppe extends
from Argentina’s coast along the Atlantic
Ocean to the border of Chile, which is
defined by the Andes mountain range. The
topography is composed of plateaus, plains,
and some low-lying mountains. It is an arid
region; desert-like, with average annual
precipitation of no more than 200 mm.
The Austral Steppe of Patagonia
encompasses 699,297 Km². More than 95%
of these lands are privately owned; originally
purchased and developed as massive
Estancias. Nevertheless, this is one of the
most sparsely populated regions in the
world. Overgrazing of domesticated animals,
e.g., sheep, during the 1900s, resulted in
massive desertification of this already arid
ecosystem. These damages, along with
other economic and development forces,
have largely rendered the Estancia model
as unsustainable; however, a number of
smaller, local Estancias survive. As you travel
through the remainder of this Section, you
will note the signs for these local Estancias.
Imagine living on one of these remote
ranches amongst the harsh winds and dry
climate of Patagonia! Yet, locals call these
lands home, and in fact, tradition and beauty
abound in these isolated lands. Surprisingly,
there is a diversity of flora and fauna, which
only presents itself to visitors willing to slow
down and take a closer look! This Section
ends after 33.3. Km, in the sector of Ghio
Lake at the entrance to the northern
installations of the Suyai Estancia. Camping
is possible along the side of the road.
For those who wish to include a visit to Hipolito
Yrigoyen – Lago Posadas in their itinerary, be
sure to look for the article explaining the
route! You can rejoin the Circuit without backtracking and will want to begin your detour
within this Section of the Circuit.
45
Section 1E: Ghio Lake & Suyai Estancia Sector Bajo Caracoles (68.3 Km).
Ghio Lake is one of the larger lakes of this
area, providing important habitat for its
abundant bird life and an important source
of water. You’ll continue traveling east along
Provincial Route 41 for 59 Km, through
rolling terrain and private Estancias, before
arriving at the intersection of Provincial
Route 41 and National Route 40. Here,
you’ll head south for 9.3 Km, arriving at
the tiny outpost of Bajo Caracoles; which
marks the end of this Section and the first
Stage of the Circuit. Bajo Caracoles appears,
on first glance, as little more than a truckstop. However, as with most aspects of the
Patagonian Steppe, it’s important to look
a bit deeper and find the hidden gems.
Bajo Caracoles has a bit of a cult following
amongst bikers and independent travelers,
offering a quirky historic hotel, food, great
coffee, a mechanic that can make miracles,
gas pumps, and access to UNESCO World
Heritage Site, the Cueva de las Manos
(Cave of the Hands).
Bajo Caracoles was originally developed
as one of a series of rest-stops for weary
gauchos traveling with herds of sheep or
cattle. Here, one could stop, spend a night
and re-supply, before continuing toward the
larger towns and markets. The historic Bajo
Caracoles Hotel was built in the 1940s, at
the height of The Wool Route. Today, most
of these pop-up towns have disappeared;
46
however, Bajo Caracoles lives on. The hotel
is still functional and is a very popular stop
for travelers adventuring on the famous
National Route 40. Reservations are
suggested, especially during peak times!
NOTES
Cochrane has always been
a city on the move.
Though the lifestyle of people in Cochrane has changed, it proudly
maintains close links to its ranching heritage and gaucho customs.
Trace Gale
To understand this community
and its people, you must sift
through its history and discover
the events that have marked its
evolution. The Cochrane River Valley,
where Cochrane is located today, was first
charted in 1899, by the explorer Hans
Steffen. Later, the Chilean government
offered these lands as a concession, to
promote their settlement and development.
In 1908 the lands were awarded to
the Baker River Operating Society, as a
concession for livestock production and
ranching, transforming the area into an
enormous Estancia. Soon, workers began to
settle, supporting the needs of the growing
operation.
Cochrane traces its history to the year 1929,
when public records show the petition
for the first town plans. It originated in a
sector of the Chacabuco Valley called, Las
Latas, (The Cans), perhaps a reference to
the common custom of paying workers
for each sheep sheared, by dropping a coin
in a tin can beside their work station. This
area was easily accessible for workers and
their families, as it was close to the main
infrastructure of the Chacabuco Valley
Cattle Company, also located in the Entrada
Baker Sector.
But, having a town spring up so close to
the headquarter area did not suit the
shareholders of the company. Company
officials negotiated with the government
of the time to have the people moved
to a valley northeast of Cochrane Lake,
beside the river of the same name. Thus,
in 1929, when the mayor, Don Marchant,
commissioned a layout of plans for the
town developing in Las Latas Sector, the
surveyor conducted the work at the site he
named Pueblo Nuevo instead, located 7 Km
from the shores of Cochrane Lake.
Twenty-five years later, on March 17,
1954, the town of Cochrane was officially
47
founded. By this time, residents were wellsettled into the Pueblo Nuevo location.
The Estancia heritage of this area remains
deeply interwoven within local lives and
identities. Ranching and gaucho customs
continue to the current day, despite the
arrival of modern technologies and a
more urban way of life. Today, there is a
new generation of Cochraninos reviving
and maintaining this heritage; finding their
medium within the music of this sector.
Look for popular local musicians like
Francisco Soto (pictured on left below),
Nicasio Luna, Danilo Cruces, and Sebastián
Barra, during Cochrane’s annual folklore
and heritage festival, which takes place in
February.
NOTES
Historic Pioneer Era Photos, Solis Family Collection
Patrick McGarry
48
Evelyn Pfeiffer
49
Take a walk through Cochrane’s
past and present.
This brief walking tour through downtown Cochrane provides the opportunity to
discover some important moments in the founding and development of the town.
This tour is self-guided, beginning at the
Cochrane’s Plaza of Arms and ending at
the Museum. You can choose your own
route, based on your personal interests
and the list of interesting places provided
below.
Download the accompanying
Geo-references from the Undiscovered
Patagonia Website, to build your own map.
• Activity Type: Walking or bike tour
• Circuit Sector: Downtown
Cochrane
• Starting Point: Plaza of Arms
• Ending Point: Museum of
Cochrane
• Suggestions: Download the KMZ
points available on line to make a
personalized tour map.
• Distance: Depends on you!
• Duration: 1 – 3 hours
• Seasonality: Year round.
• Difficulty: Suitable for all.
Interesting Places:
School, in 1984, represented a significant
advance for education in the area. This
school has focused on quality programming
and curriculum, becoming one of the most
prestigious educational establishments in
the Region. It provides a local option for
children throughout the Province to remain
close to home for their high-school years.
Today, you can find Lord Cochrane High
School on the north side of the Plaza,
between the streets of Las Golondrinas and
Esmeralda.
Cochrane’s Post Office: Historically, courier
services delivered mail to Cochrane by
horse, traveling through the treacherous,
Canyon of the Lioness, which separated
Cochrane from Chile Chico. The Town of
Cochrane was officially founded on March
17, 1954, with the inauguration of the
building intended to be the first post office.
The site of this building had been donated
to the city, by Don Luis Baez Barra, who
was the deputy of Cochrane at the time.
The Plaza of Arms: Welcome to the town
of Cochrane and the beautiful Plaza of
Arms, where you can sit, relax, and watch
the passersby. Pay a visit to the Tourism
Information Center located in the southeast
corner for answers to your questions,
helpful brochures and maps.
Lord Cochrane Southern High School:
Cochrane's first school dates from the year
1931, when Don Lucas Bridges, owner of the
concession developing ranching in the Baker
River basis, built it to fulfill a commitment to
the settlers of the area. The original school
was built at the confluence of the Tamango
and Cochrane rivers, setting the course
for development of Pueblo Nuevo, which
was first surveyed at the same time. The
creation of Southern Lord Cochrane High
50
Evelyn Pfeiffer
The bricks and tiles were made by Don
Enrique Barria and Don Zenobio Mansilla.
As with many growing frontier towns, plans
changed and the building was given to the
Air Force of Chile instead. It took another 6
years to officially establish the postal service
(Correos de Chile), in Cochrane, in 1960.
Today, you will encounter the Correos Chile
Branch at Esmeralda Street N° 199.
Offices of the Municipal Government: At
the time of its founding in 1954, the town
of Cochrane had ten houses. The final plans
for the blocks of the original town were
determined in 1955, within the work of a
commission composed of three surveyors,
Don Carlos Pizarro Araneda, Don Germán
Pozo and Don Fernando Malagueño. On
October 26, 1970, the town of Cochrane,
which had formerly pertained to the
Department of Chile Chico, became a
Department of its own. Its first Governor
was Don Esteban Ramírez Sepúlveda.
Shortly thereafter, in 1974, the Region of
Aysén was established, along with four
Provinces; one of which was the Province
of Capitán Prat. The establishment of this
Province represents an important milestone
in the realization of residents’ dreams
to be able to access public services and
government institutions within their local
community. Today you will find the offices
Evelyn Pfeiffer
Evelyn Pfeiffer
of the Municipality on Esmeralda Street,
N°398, at the corner with Dr. Steffen.
Cochrane’s Police Headquarters: In
1955, the first Police Station of Cochrane
was relocated from the Entrada Baker
sector to the area where the Balsa Baker
Ferry currently crosses the Baker River.
The responsibility for this important
advance in the town’s infrastructure fell
on Don Rodolfo Stange, a man who left
a permanent impression on the history of
these lands. Today, the Police Headquarters
for Cochrane is under the direction of Don
Juan Marcelo Baeza Gaete, and located at
Calle Esmeralda Nº522, along the perimeter
of the Plaza of Arms. Amongst other things,
this Commissary, as they are referred to in
Chile, is authorized to conduct transactions
related to the crossing of borders.
Cochrane’s Hospital: The earliest health
care services in this zone were informally
supplied by “Meicas”, elder women who
would travel the long distances between
ranches to help ailing settlers. Thus,
the creation of the Cochrane Hospital
was another important chapter in the
development of the city of Cochrane. This
facility replaced the old Rural Health Post
in 1979, providing citizens of the Province
51
with much better access to modern health
care services. Today, the hospital, located
at Av. Bernardo O’Higgins N° 755, is
equipped with four general medics who
care for patients from the towns of Caleta
Tortel, Villa O’Higgins, Puerto Bertrand, and
surrounding areas. This hospital provides
general and emergency care, minor
surgeries, antibiotics and medications.
The ECA (Agricultural Commerce Stores)
of Cochrane: Early residents of Cochrane
ate diets consisting mostly of beans, potatoes,
pasta, rice, tea and yerba mate. At times
settlers also had access to meat, eggs, milk,
fruits, vegetables and fish; however, surveys
conducted in the region in 1938, revealed
that rural families in Chile faced grand
difficulties related to nutrition. Almost ¾ of
the families in Chile were living in conditions
where they did not receive adequate levels
of nourishment. A number of government
programs were implemented in Chile in
response to these findings. One of these
programs involved the development of a
network of Rural Grocery-General Stores,
subsidized and supported by the state as
part of a strategy to establish a reliable and
affordable supply of food and basic goods
in remote areas. The Commercial outlets
had various names through the years. If
you have the opportunity to talk with an
old-timer in Cochrane, you’ll find that they
remember the INACO store (National
Institute of Commerce). Almost all residents
will remember the next name of these
stores, the ECA (Agricultural Commerce
Stores). The current name for these
stores is EMAZA, which stands for Supply
Stores for Isolated Zones; however, for
Cochraninos, the store remains known as
the Almacén ECA, and is a local institution.
You can visit the ECA at Rio Colonia N°85.
The Museum of Cochrane: Many of the
interesting characters that founded the city
of Cochrane are no longer among us, but
you can find evidence of their contributions
and sacrifices in the local museum, located
at Calle San Valentín N°555, next to the
Cultural Center. The Museum contains
two permanent exhibits. The first relates
to the geomorphology of the area, the
natural environment, flora and fauna, local
economic activities and the evolution of
the population. The second exhibit focuses
on the history of human occupation of the
area, with a dual focus on the indigenous
history of the Tehuelche, or Aoniken, preColumbian hunter-gatherers, and the
history of modern colonization.
From the Collection of the Municipality of Cochrane
52
Sip the flavor of Patagonia.
Drinking yerba mate with loved ones and friends is a custom
that has been shared for generations within Patagonia.You’ll see
this traditional drink being sipped by just about everyone in the
small towns along the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit.
In fact, the drink is extremely popular in
many Latin and South American countries,
and exported throughout the rest of the
world. Yerba mate is the national drink of
Argentina, where, during the latter part of
the 1800s, it quickly made its way down from
Buenos Aires to the Estancias of Patagonia,
becoming a popular warm beverage for
farmers working long days in the fields. It
provided energy and helped hold off their
appetites as they worked. Yerba mate
made its way to the Aysén Region of Chile
with the migration of early settlers; many
of which spent years in Argentina as they
worked their way south.
Yerba mate is an infusion made from dried
leaves of a cousin of the holly tree, the
liex paraguayensis. Yerba mate has been
used for thousands of years amongst the
indigenous groups of the Southern Cone.
The modern tradition dates back to the
1650s, when Jesuit priests first arrived in
Paraguay. They noticed indigenous groups
harvesting the plants on a small scale, from
wild stands. Seeing the potential, they quickly
established yerba mate (liex paraguayensis)
tree plantations, with intentions of
commercializing the drink as a source of
stable income. Their efforts spread yerba
mate throughout the Andean regions and
beyond. Today, yerba mate is grown in
southern Brazil, Argentina, and Paraguay and
sold throughout South America, the Middle
East, and many other regions of the world.
Patrick McGarry
warm up and wake up; it’s a social event!
Offering yerba mate when guests arrive
is a common tradition in Patagonia and a
great way to break the ice or set the stage
for conversation. Yerba mate is rarely sold
in restaurants; rather, it is usually served in
people’s homes, campsites, farms, and even
along the road or trail.
It takes a while to get used to the bitter
flavor of yerba mate, but be forewarned,
if you are one of the many to acquire the
taste, you may find it hard to put down!
All along the Undiscovered
Patagonia Circuit, you’ll notice
locals drinking yerba mate. The
custom involves people sharing rounds of
yerba mate, served hot in a small gourd
with a metal or bamboo straw. Don’t be
surprised if you are invited to join in, as
drinking yerba mate is not only a way to
53
Heat up your journey.
During your travels in the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit, you’ll encounter
what seems a rather strange cultural phenomenon involving people sharing a
drink at just about any time of the day – in almost any place - from a small
gourd with a straw. What you are witnessing is the cultural habit of drinking
yerba mate, and it’s big in this part of the world! In this activity we’ll help
you make your own yerba mate kit, with everything you’ll need to take yerba
mate on the road. Once your travels end, your kit will make a great souvenir.
Your portable kit for drinking yerba mate
consists of four key components: 1) a
calabaza, or mate cup, 2) a bombilla, or mate
straw, 3) a thermos, and 4) yerba mate.
Some people carry their components in a
stylish leather bag, customized especially for
taking yerba mate on the road.
PTI Corfo
Drinking yerba mate is a huge part of local
culture in Patagonia; so much so that during
your travels you will encounter entire
monuments dedicated to the drink. As you
explore Cochrane, you may find yourself in
front of a giant hand holding a yerba mate.
Or maybe, you’ll make your way to the
strange house built in the design of what we
have to assume is the owner’s favorite drink!
In this activity we’ll help you make your
own yerba mate kit, with everything you’ll
need for taking yerba mate on the road. As
you travel, gas stations and stores along the
route will be happy to fill your new thermos
with water perfect for sipping yerba mate.
54
You can find all the components
for your kit in Cochrane, before
setting out on your journey. We
suggest you head to Casa Melero, perhaps
Patagonia’s greatest general store, located at
Las Golondrinas N°148, on the west side
of the Plaza of Arms. In this amazing store,
you’ll find everything you need to assemble
your portable yerba mate kit. You’ll also find
a great variety of fresh fruits and vegetables,
a bakery, and a deli. It’s a one-stop shop
to buy camping gear, canoes, chain saws,
chocolate, fine wines, fishing gear, and almost
anything you could ever want or need!
We suggest a thermos fitted with
an inside top designed especially
for serving yerba mate (yes, they
actually make these). Most of the
thermoses are fitted with glass insides, but
don’t worry; if your inside breaks, almost
all the gas stations and stores along the
route sell inexpensive replacements. Next,
you need to choose your calabaza or mate
cup. This can be as simple as a small tin cup
covered in colored enamel or as elaborate
as a hollowed out gourd, adorned with an
infinite variety of hand-crafted copper and
silver accents. What if you don’t find the
perfect option in Casa Melero?
We suggest you opt for the tin cup
version and keep searching for a
special “keeper” version amongst
the artisan shops and kiosks you’ll
encounter throughout the Circuit.
The third ingredient of your kit is a metal
or bamboo bombilla. Ask for help locating
Melero’s selection and if possible, opt for
one with a head that can be removed for
easy cleaning. Finally, you’ll need your yerba
mate. There are a variety of brands and
sizes to choose from, but the most popular
by far is “Taragüi”, produced in Argentina,
by Las Marias. Start with 1 kilo. You can
find yerba mate at every store and most gas
stations along your route.
Want to learn more about the
history and customs surrounding
yerba mate? We suggest that you pay
a visit to Estancia La Quinta, as you reach
the entrance to the town of El Chaltén
in Argentina. The owners, the Halvorsen
family, have a large collection of historical
artifacts related to yerba mate. Mrs. Patricia
Halvorsen, the owner, is the granddaughter
of one of the original pioneers of the area,
Halvor Halvorsen. She is an historian and
the author of several books about the
history of Argentine Patagonia. She will
provide a tour of the Estancia during your
stay, during which she’ll share the story of
her family and the settlement of this sector
of Patagonia. Her tour also includes stories
and artifacts from the early explorers and
mountaineers in the area of Fitz Roy and
Evelyn Pfeiffer
the formation of El Chaltén.
NOTES
Rodrigo Merino
55
Serving a perfect yerba mate
starts with the water.
More than a hot beverage, yerba mate is a grand tradition in
Patagonia. This article will teach you all you need to know to
prepare a great mate for yourself and your friends.
It all begins with the water. You’ll need to
heat your water to between 70 - 80˚C, or
for those without a thermometer handy, the
point just BEFORE boiling. Never use water
that has boiled! Use the freshest water
available, preferably without a lot of added
chlorine. Fill your thermos and set it to the
side. Next, fill your mate cup or calabaza ¾
full with yerba mate. Fill the cup with the
water and place the bombilla into the yerba
mate so that it extends to the bottom and
rests against one edge. From this point on,
the bombilla will remain stationary.
The person who is the server has an
important job, which begins with drinking
the first cup or two, often called the mate
del zonzo (mate of the fool). The goal of
drinking these first cups is to test the water
temperature and flavor before refilling and
passing the hot beverage on to the first
person on their right. Each person drinks
the entire serving of water before passing
the cup back to the server to refill for the
next person. This process goes around
and around until the yerba begins to lose
its flavor (usually around ten fills, depending
on the age of the yerba). At this point the
yerba is said to be washed, and the server
should dispose of it and refill the mate cup
with a new round of yerba.
Some Practical Advice: Yerba Mate
is known and loved (by many) for its bitter
flavor. Nevertheless, some prefer to add
sugar or other flavorings to their yerba
mate, which is also quite tasty. Typically
when drinking yerba mate with others, the
person with the cup will take several quick
sips to finish the gourd, and promptly pass
it back to the server so that others who
are waiting can also have a turn. When a
person is done drinking mate, but the group
is still passing it around, it is customary to
say “thank you” to the server as you return
it, indicating that you are done. Once you
say thank you, the host will not offer you
another round of yerba mate. Nevertheless
you are welcome to remain for more
conversation!
Patrick McGarry
56
Check out beautiful views in
Tamango National Reserve.
Tamango National Reserve, just outside Cochrane, is a must amongst
the sites within the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit! Nestled within
mountains and bordered by Cochrane Lake and River, this Reserve
offers incredible views and nature, just moments from town.
Tamango National Reserve is a beautiful
protected area of 6,925 hectares, nestled
between three mountains, Cerros Tamango
(1,722 m), Tamanguito (1,485 m), and
Húngaro (1,214 m). Cochrane Lake and
River form natural limits along the Reserve’s
southeast corner.
There are a variety of trails to hike and
access to the waters, where you can take
boat rides, learn to kayak or simply relax
amongst the incredible natural setting. If
you like to fish, you will encounter crystal
clear waters packed full of rainbow trout
(oncorhynchus mikiss). Purchase a license
and get in touch with a local guide who can
make sure you find the best areas!
The Reserve provides vital
habitat for native fauna, assisting
the conservation of several
threatened
and
endangered
species. Tamango National Reserve
plays a critical role in the survival of the
endangered huemul deer, (hippocamelus
busuicus), which is indigenous to Chile and
Argentina, and has an important population
within the Reserve. Other native fauna
present in the reserve include the red fox
(pseudalopex culpaeus), guanaco (lama
guanicoe), puma or cougar (puma concolor),
hairy armadillo (ahaetophractus aillosus),
Patagonic skunk (conepatus humboldtii),
chinchilla (lagidium viscacia), and a great
variety of small rodents.
Tamango is also the haven for many
birds, including Andean condors (vultur
gryphus), eagles (geranoaetus melanoleucus),
queltehues or southern lapwing (vanellus
chilensis) and forest-dwelling birds, like
Magellanic woodpeckers (campephilus
magellanicus) and Austral parakeets
Ian Farmer
(enicognathus ferrugineus). In summer, the
lakes, rivers and lagoons of the Reserve
are visited by migratory birds, including
bronze-winged duck (speculanas specularis),
yellow-billed teal (anas flavirostris), Chilean
or brown pintail (anas georgica spinicauda),
flightless steamer duck (tachyeres pteneres),
flying steamer duck (tachyeres patachonicus),
ruddy-headed
goose
(chloephaga
rubidiceps), and black necked swan (cygnus
melancoryphus), which share the waters and
shoreline with non-migratory birds, including
the great grebe (podiceps major), blackcrowned night heron (nycicorax nycticorax)
and characteristic ringed kingfisher (ceryle
torquata).
57
Support the critical work of the
Tamango National Reserve offers visitors year-round opportunities to
hike and enjoy nature, sit and relax, and observe huemul (hippocamelus
bisculus) in their natural habitat. Learn to respect the needs of these unique
animals to help the Reserve ensure their conservation and survival.
Rodrigo Merino
The Tamango National Reserve is a
unique and marvelous spot amongst the
Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit. It’s a “must
see” when planning your trip. Located in
the outskirts of the town of Cochrane,
this Reserve offers a range of recreational
opportunities, including
boat
trips,
recreational fishing, and exploring the trails.
The most important role of
the Reserve is to provide a
safe haven for the endangered
huemul (hippocamelus bisculus),
an endemic Andean deer, whose
population has been greatly impacted by
centuries of human intervention in their
natural habitat. In Chile, the range of the
huemul once stretched from Santiago to
the Straits of Magellan, but, today it is only
found in the Aysén Region, and to a lesser
extent, in the Regions of Los Lagos and
Magallanes.
58
The huemul is a short, stocky, brown deer
with large ears that can reach 25 cm. The
male has horns that regenerate every year.
With short legs and strong muscles, the
huemul is well-equipped to reach the most
remote and wild spots in their Patagonian
habitat. Huemules live alone or in small
packs, including the edges of the Ice Fields.
Their young are born in the summer and
remain with their mothers a full year before
weaning.
There is a long-standing relationship
between huemules and humans, evidenced
by Tehuelche Petroglyphs and the discovery
of various hunter-gatherer tools crafted
from bones and antlers. Archaeologists now
believe that huemules were important in
the diet of early Patagonian hunter-gatherer
groups, including the Tehuelche, Ona, and
Aónikenk, who also used bones, antlers and
skins to make utensils, jewelry, clothing and
shelter.
The
problems
between
huemules
and humans began during the time of
colonization. With the use of guns and
dogs in hunting, huemules became easy
targets. The expansion of ranching, fencing,
and especially, the use of fire to clear fields,
resulted in less and less natural habitat. To
make matters worse, in the early twentieth
century, red deer (cervus elaphus) were
introduced in some areas, producing
further stress within an ever-decreasing
territorial space. The red deer were more
aggressive and territorial; thus, the habitat
of the huemul was reduced further, to
small and hidden spaces in the Andes
mountains. Today, the huemul is a protected,
endangered species. Hunting, trapping,
enclosing, possession, transportation and
marketing, are all prohibited by law and
treaty in Chile, Argentina, and the rest of
the world.
It’s important that you join the
efforts. Take special care that your
presence on the trails and waterways of
the Reserve do not interrupt the daily life
and habits of the huemul! Remember to
limit your interactions to photos, taken at
a distance, so that you do not cause stress
or shock. Armed with these simple tips
you’ll be prepared to enjoy the incredible
scenery and special fauna of the Reserve in
a responsible and respectful manner.
NOTES
The Tamango National Reserve
plays a critical role in the
protection of remaining habitat
and is home to one of the larger
remaining populations. In the Visitor
Reception Office, you can find more
information about this huemul population
and learn about the studies and protective
measures being taken by CONAF.
Ian Farmer
59
Tips for hiking in Patagonia.
In this article, we offer some suggestions to help make sure your hikes
within the mountains and forests of Patagonia are both fun and safe.
The
Undiscovered
Patagonia
Circuit is chock-full of mountains
and forests where opportunities
for hiking abound! As you are planning,
be sure to explore the hiking possibilities in
the following sectors:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Tamango National Reserve
Patagonia Park
Perito Moreno National Park
Los Glaciares National Park
Los Huemules Estancia Nature Reserve
The Crossing between Laguna/Lago del
Desierto and Candelario Mansilla
Laguna Caiquenes Conservation Area
Villa O’Higgins and its Surroundings
Areas Surrounding Caleta Tortel
Monte San Lorenzo
Before heading out, we suggest a
little risk management planning
and preparation. Hiking in natural and
remote locations involves risks that can
effect your travels. Frequently the effects
produce inconveniences and unexpected
changes, however, hiking also involves risks
that could lead to accidents with serious
consequences. It is important for you to
understand and accept the responsibility for
managing these risks.
First, consider the dangers of the
activity and environment. Dangers
are
environmental
conditions
and
circumstances, which increase the likelihood
of harm to people. There are two types of
dangers: objective and subjective. Objective
dangers are those associated with nature;
e.g., ice on the road. Subjective dangers are
associated with actions taken by people;
e.g.,, driving a car at a high speed along this
icy road. The objective dangers associated with hiking
in forests and mountainous areas include
the presence of forests, canyons, cliffs,
snow or ice, avalanches, mud slides, loose
rocks, rotten logs, holes, meadows, slippery
surfaces, weather conditions, and rivers.
Subjective dangers include inexperience,
inadequate physical condition or sense of
balance, fatigue or illness, lack of knowledge,
inadequate equipment, or a bad attempt at
crossing a river. Identification and analysis of risk
Cristian Solis
60
you've taken the time to identify the
dangers, risks, and possible consequences,
you can decide on, and implement,
strategies to minimize the chances of their
occurrence. There are a multitude of simple
measures for planning, prevention and
management of risk associated with hiking
in the forests and mountains of Patagonia.
Here's a list to get you started
with your safe hiking strategy:
Cristian Solis
is the second component of your
preparation. When you enter the
mountains and forests of Patagonia, you
mix the objective dangers present in the
environment with the subjective dangers
you and others add. This combination
increases the risk, or probability, of an
event that could be damaging to people,
equipment, or the environment.
When hiking in Patagonia, some of the risks
include the possibility of getting lost, falling
from a height, being hit by a falling object,
spending the night in the back-country, or
being carried down-river. You may think of
others, as you consider your plans.
• Hike at a calm pace, without rushing.
Plan your distances and routes, with
ample time to hike at a relaxed pace.
• Examine rocks and logs before stepping
on them. Make sure they are firm and
not slippery.
• Use trails where they exist and pay
attention to markers and cairns. • Do not enter forests in high winds.
40 Km/h is a suggested threshold.
• Use a GPS to mark your car, point
of departure from established trails,
landmarks, etc.
• Do not cross rivers on foot if you are
alone, do not have experience, or are
not with an experienced guide.
• Carry a trail map. If possible, we
suggest having a topographic map that
includes contour lines to show the
shape and elevation of the area. The third dimension involves
consideration of the possible
consequences associated with the
risks you have identified. Some of
the consequences related with the risks
we’ve presented include damage or loss of
your equipment, personal injury, including
severe injury or even fatal consequences,
delays, changes or an early end of the trip,
and even the possibility of drowning. These
things are not fun to consider, especially
when you are planning a vacation. The good news is risk can be
anticipated and managed! Once
Cristian Solis
61
Cristian Solis
One of the possible strategies
you can implement is to shift
some of the responsibility to an
expert! Consider using a professional
guide or support service; they will take
charge of the logistics and risk management,
making your experience more relaxed and
enjoyable. Normally, they are experienced
with the areas you will be hiking and can
provide great information about the
resources and history, along with technical
skills.
NOTES
Match appropriate knowledge
and equipment with the activity
and environment. For example, if
you plan on being in the back-country
for multiple days, you should have
someone in your group with knowledge
of weather forecasting. Whether you
will be back-packing or day-hiking, always
bring appropriate clothing for the changing
weather conditions in Patagonia. Some
of the equipment you should consider
includes a GPS, food, and versions of the kits
mentioned in the article about self-sufficient
traveling.
Cristian Solis
62
Explore the Tamango National
Reserve with this day hike.
This hike, in the Tamango National Reserve, provides a nice sample of the
incredible scenery and challenges within the Reserve. It is a simple trekking
circuit that will take you to a scenic overlook of the Cochrane River and
Lake, and can be adapted to your preferences of time and distances.
Ian Farmer
• Type of activity: Trekking
• Circuit sector: Tamango National
Reserve
• Starting Point: Visitor Reception
Office in the entrance of the Reserve
• Ending point: Visitor Reception
Office in the entrance of the Reserve
• Considerations: The Tamango
National Reserve is open year-round,
with hiking dependent on weather and
snow cover. Check trail conditions with
rangers. In Cochrane you can arrange
for a taxi ride or other transportation.
You must pay an entrance fee for
• Distance: Option 1 is 4 Km, out &
back. Option 2 is 8 Km, out & back.
• Duration: From 2 to 6 hours,
depending on the selected route.
• Seasonality: Year-round
• Difficulty: Suitable for all hikers.
The Hike: Start at the Visitor Reception
Office in the entrance area, where you will
need to sign in and pay a minimal entrance
fee. Leaving the office, continue along the
road until reaching the signs marking the
trails. Follow the south trail leading to the
Cochrane River. It passes through a mixture
of forest and clearings and is easy to follow,
although in places, it is not clearly marked.
At the River, turn toward the west. The trail
merges with the gravel road coming from
Cochrane and leading to CONAF’s boat
dock. When you arrive at the River, you
will encounter CONAF’s boat dock (Sector
Embarcadero) and camping area, equipped
with toilets, tables and a beautiful area for
resting and having lunch. This is the turnaround point for Option 1.
Option 2 is to keep following the trail
until you reach the Las Correntadas
Campground. The trail between the docks
and Las Correntadas follows the River’s
63
Trace Gale
edge with ascents and descents to avoid
rock walls. The route highlights details of the
river, and is bounded by lots of interesting
riparian flora and fauna. After approximately
3½ Km, you will reach the Camping Area,
located beside an area of rapids. This is an
excellent place to try your hand at fishing
and a beautiful place to relax and enjoy. You
can spend this night here, tent-camping, if
you would like to lengthen your excursion.
Trace Gale
64
Trace Gale
In Cochrane, you can encounter
several local guides who are
experts in the terrain of the area
and well versed with the trails of
the Reserve. Experiencing Tamango
with one of these guides is a great option;
they can share insights about the terrain and
natural history of the park that are sure to
enhance your experience!
Ian Farmer
Planning your water-based
activities in Patagonia.
This article will help you prepare for a wide range of activities in the
incredible waters of Patagonia.We offer some considerations for safely
crossing rivers and streams by foot, vehicle, bicycle or horse.
One of the hallmarks of the
Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit is
water. You will be amazed at the
beauty and absolute abundance
of rivers, streams, lakes, ponds,
waterfalls and fjords!
dangers; objective and subjective. Objective
dangers are those associated with nature;
e.g., ice on the road. Subjective dangers are
associated with actions taken by people; e.g.,
driving a car at a high speed along this icy
road.
The waters of Patagonia offer visitors
unique and unforgettable experiences; a
wide range of activities and sports. However,
The objective dangers associated with
water-based activities in Patagonia include
deep water, low water temperatures, and
Trace Gale
these activities involve risks that can effect
your travels. Many times these effects
simply produce unexpected inconveniences;
however, there are also risks related to
water-based activities that could lead to
accidents with serious consequences. It
is important for you to understand and
accept responsibility to manage these risks.
First, consider the dangers of
the activity and environment.
Dangers are environmental conditions and
circumstances that increase the likelihood
of harm to people. There are two types of
strong currents, obstacles in the water,
turbidity and climatic conditions. The
subjective dangers include inexperience,
inadequate physical condition or sense of
balance, fatigue or illness, lack of knowledge,
inadequate equipment, or a bad attempt at
crossing a river.
Identification and analysis of
risk is the second component of
your preparation. When you enter
into the waters of Patagonia, you mix
objective dangers and hazards with the
subjective dangers you and others add.
65
in good condition. Some of the equipment
you should consider includes a GPS, food,
and the kits described in the self-sufficient
travel article of this guide.
When Crossing Streams & Rivers:
Patrick McGarry
This combination increases the risk, or
probability, of an event in which there could
be damage to people, equipment or the
environment. The typical activities that take
place in the waters of Patagonia include
crossing rivers and streams on foot, bicycle,
or horse, and other activities like fishing and
kayaking. Some of the risks of these activities
include the possibility of getting lost, falling
into deep water, being carried away by
the current, getting your kayak wedged in
between rocks or other debris of the river,
falling from a height, being hit by a falling
object, piercing yourself with a fishhook,
or spending the night in the back-country.
You may think of others, as you consider
your plans.
The third dimension of your
planning involves consideration
or the possible consequences
associated with the risks you have
identified. Some of the consequences
related with the risks we’ve presented
include, damage or loss of equipment,
personal injury, including severe or even
fatal injury, hypothermia, drowning, delays,
changes or an early end of the trip. These
things are not fun to consider, especially
when you are planning a vacation.
The good news is these risks can be
anticipated and managed! Once you've
taken the time to identify the dangers, risks,
and possible consequences, you can decide
on and implement strategies to minimize
chances of their occurrence. Here are
some tactics and measures to consider in
your water-based activity strategy. Always
bring appropriate clothing for the changing
conditions in Patagonia. With water-based
activities, you’ll also want dry-clothes, tools
for making a fire and hot water, walking
sticks or poles, and the proper equipment,
66
• Carefully evaluate the need to cross.
• NEVER cross alone.
• Station a person with experience on
the downstream side of the group,
where they can help with the crossing.
• Use trekking poles for support as you
cross.
• Cross as a group, holding the back or
backpack of the person in front of you.
• Loosen the straps and belt pack of your
backpack. If you slip, you can remove it.
• Take off your socks and remove the
insoles of your boots or shoes, but
leave your shoes on.
• If you fall into the water, change into
dry clothes immediately. Make a fire
to provide warmth, and drink warm
liquids.
• Do not attempt new techniques
without an experienced guide.
• Do not attempt crossing rivers or
streams on horseback, without the
assistance of experienced horse guides
who are familiar with the route.
• When crossing streams by bike, check
the depth and determine your route,
before crossing your equipment. When
you cross, carry the bike on your
shoulder.
When Swimming, Fishing &
Kayaking:
• Use proper clothing and technical
equipment, e.g., life jackets, wet suits,
windbreaker jackets, waders, gloves,
walking sticks, helmets, etc.
• Stay close to shore and stick with your
group or guide. Never swim, fish, or
kayak, alone.
• When fishing in waders, ALWAYS
wear a belt so that, if you are carried
downstream by the current, your
waders will not fill up with water and
become a weight.
• It is a good idea to travel with a GPS
and map, marking landmarks, as you go.
Kayak the Cochrane River.
Crystalline waters and an abundant aquatic life make the Cochrane River one
of the most beautiful in the area.This activity is technically simple, with only 2
waterfalls on the lower part of the river, posing a fun challenge for kayakers.
• Type of activity: Kayaking
• Circuit sector: Cochrane Lake and
River in the Tamango National Reserve
• Starting point: Download KMZ
points from the Circuit website.
• Ending point: Any of the 3 takeouts indicated on-line.
• Considerations: There is an
entrance fee for the Reserve.
• Distance: 6-8 Km
• Duration: 5 to 6 hours
• Seasonality: October-April
• Difficulty: Easy circuit, but requires
instruction or prior knowledge.
The Circuit: This is a simple circuit with
different length options and the possibility
to paddle through the rapids of the lower
part of the river. Build your own route
according to your skill level and needs.
Depart from CONAF’s boat dock or one of
the other river accesses indicated in www.
patagoniapordescubrir.com. From your putin, you can paddle upstream to the lake or
downstream, passing through class 2 - 3
rapids. Watch for huemules (hippocamelus
bisulcus) at the river’s edge during your
excursion. The first section of the river has
practically no current and feels more like
a lake. You will only feel stronger currents
when you hit the narrows. If you prefer to
avoid the white water, you can reach the
lake by using the pools and a short 200
m take-out near the dock at Camping Las
Correntadas.
There are also possibilities for
people with no equipment or
kayaking experience. For the past
12 years, Cochrane’s Kayak Club Escualos
has taught kids between the ages of 4 and
18 to kayak on the Cochrane and Baker
Rivers. During Chile’s summer they offer
courses for beginners at their Base, from
18h00 to 20h00, Mondays, Wednesdays,
and Fridays. Normally, travelers can join in.
The Club has the necessary equipment and
instructors to teach beginners and help
advanced kayakers develop new skills. It is
also possible to contact a guide/instructor
for private sessions. Check with the Club
for a list of guides.
Weston Boyles
67
Land the big one on Cochrane’s waters.
Cochrane Lake and River border the Tamango National Reserve
and are excellent places for practicing recreational fishing.
Your hardest decision is finding the perfect spot!
• Type of activity: Recreational
fishing from land or by boat.
• Circuit sector: Cochrane River and
Lake in the Tamango National Reserve
• Starting point: Cochrane River
• Ending point: Cochrane River
• Considerations: In the Region of
Aysén, you must have a valid fishing
license. Visit www.sernapesca.cl, to
purchase a license on-line. There is
an entrance fee for fishing within the
Tamango National Reserve, payable
at CONAF’s office, when you enter.
Make sure you properly disinfect your
equipment to prevent the spread of
the Didymo. Learn more at www.
didymo.cl.
• Distance: Depends on preferences.
• Activity: Variable, up to a whole day.
• Seasonality: mid-September - April.
• Difficulty: Suitable for all.
equipment to rent, for small groups. And,
if you want to arrange a multi-day fishing
trip, there are many campsites and cabins
available.
When changing between waterways or at
the end of each fishing day, please remove,
clean, and dry equipment in the repositories
available in the Reserve’s Administration
Area. This protocol helps protect the
waters of Patagonia against the spread
of the Didymo Algae (didymosphenia
geminata), an invasive species that has taken
over many rivers around the world. The
Didymo plankton puts a green slime on
rocks in the river and depletes the oxygen
available for fish; thus reducing biodiversity.
The Circuit: Fishing is a fun way to
explore the area and learn more about
the ecosystem. Fishing provides great
opportunities for entomology observation,
combining sport with science. You can
spend a great afternoon searching for the
places where mayfly and caddisfly nymphs
appear during the spring and summer to
tempt the trout that inhabit these waters.
Cochrane Lake is located 10 Km east of
Cochrane. The Cochrane River begins at
the lake and runs southeast. Both offer great
land and boat fishing opportunities.
Before you go, familiarize yourself with the
rules and limits established for recreational
fishing; which, you can find in the website
of Sernapesca (www.sernapesca.cl). We
suggest you contact one of the many guides
in Cochrane that specialize in recreational
fishing. These guides can arrange and
lead your excursion and normally have
68
Evelyn Pfeiffer
The weather in Patagonia is unpredictable – it changes rapidly and is prone to
numerous conditions in short periods of time, prompting the popular local saying,
“Be prepared to experience all four seasons in one day.” Here are some pointers!
Cristian Solis
When hiking, biking or practicing water
sports in Patagonia, it is important to be
prepared with layers of clothing that allow
you to add or subtract, based on the everchanging conditions.
For most activities, including hiking, you’ll
first want a thin, inner-layer of polyester or
polypropylene to help insulate and keep
you dry. Next, we suggest a layer of fleece
or wool, for warmth, and finally, an outside
layer to protect you from water, wind and
rain. You’ll want good, well broken-in boots,
wool or polypropylene socks, extra shoes
for time in camp, a wool cap, sunglasses and
gloves.
If you are back-packing, horse-trekking,
kayaking, or canoeing, the goal for keeping
safe is staying warm and dry. Line backpacks
and dry-bags with an extra plastic trash
bag and then pack your clothes, sleeping
bags, etc, in smaller plastic bags inside. Be
prepared with the following items: first aid
kit, whistle, head lamp, map and compass,
gators, specialized gear for your chosen
activity, a water bottle and snacks.
In Patagonia, people partake in outdoor
activities year-round; but always with respect
and consideration of weather, including wind
and snow cover. Check the latest forecasts,
trail, and water conditions with experts, e.g.,
rangers, port authorities, or police, before
starting your activities. Always be prepared
to put activities on hold, if the conditions
aren’t suitable. Register your plans with
Park or Reserve officials and a friend back
home; especially if you will be out of contact
for multiple days.
The amount of daylight you will encounter
varies significantly in these latitudes (49˚
20’ S). For example, towards the end of
September, you are likely to encounter
around 12 hours of daylight each day. Just
three months later, around Christmas, you
will experience approximately 18 hours
of sunlight. Daily sunlight hours gradually
shorten during the fall months in Patagonia,
reaching a low in midwinter (July) of
approximately 8 hours per day. This variable
affects outdoor activities and should be
considered when forming your plans.
69
Discover Patagonia with your kids.
If you are hiking as a family, there are some tips to keep in mind,
suggested by Miguel A. Alonso in his book, “Trekking en Chaltén
& Lago del Desierto”. (2003, www.LosGlaciares.com)
Touring the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit
as a family? We suggest picking up a copy
of Miguel A. Alonso’s book, “Trekking en
Chaltén & Lago del Desierto” (2003, www.
LosGlaciares.com Publishers). He has great
tips and pointers, including overviews of the
popular hikes around the northern sector
of Los Glaciares National Park. Until your
copy arrives, here is a sample of the great
pointers he suggests for hiking with kids:
• With kids, it’s important to take frequent
rests. • For children between 2 and 4 years of
age, you need to rest every 10 to 15
minutes and not plan on hiking more
than 3 Km. • For children 5 to 7 years of age, you
should plan hikes of no more than 5 to
7 Km and plan to stop for a rest every
30 to 45 minutes. • For kids between 8-10 years of age, hike
no more than 13 Km per day, stopping
at least once each hour. • Children need to put on warm layers
sooner than adults – they lose body
heat faster and even though you may
not yet feel the cold, they need to layer
up! A wool cap is essential for kids –
20% of body heat is lost through their
heads. • Lastly, remember that if your kids are
carrying a backpack, the weight of the
pack should not exceed 20% of their
total body weight.
70
Daniel Torres
NOTES
Explore the Tamango National Reserve
with this great multisport day-circuit!
This activity presents a multisport experience which combines a boat trip down
the Cochrane River and a return trek through the Tamango National Reserve.
During the circuit, you will have a great chance to spot huemules and other
native wildlife. There are options for recreational fishing and camping, if desired.
• Activity Type: Multisport circuit,
combining a boat tour, trekking in the
Tamango National Reserve and options
for camping & recreational fishing.
• Circuit Sector: Tamango National
Reserve
• Starting Point: Main dock of the
Reserve (Embarcadero)
• Ending Point: Main dock of the
Reserve (Embarcadero)
• Reservations: There are different
guides that can accompany you or
you can complete it yourself, with the
CONAF Park Ranger assisting for the
boat trip portion. We strongly advise
reserving the boat service the day
before, through your choice of service
providers.
• Considerations: At the entrance,
you will need to pay the Reserve’s fee.
Evelyn Pfeiffer
• Distance: Approximately 5 Km
by boat and a hike of 4.5 - 11 Km,
depending on your preferences.
• Duration: 2 - 8 hours
• Seasonality: October – April
• Difficulty: This activity can be
tailored to a variety of limitations and
interests of each group.
The Route: From Cochrane, take the
side road heading to the Tamango National
Reserve. The road ends at the CONAF
docks, 6 Km from the city. Begin the
multisport circuit with a boat trip down the
Cochrane River, guided by a CONAF ranger
or a local guide. The boat trip is both fun
and safe, providing a unique perspective of
the Reserve that will connect you with the
river at a more personal level. You’ll follow
the course of the river, enjoying the vibrant
Evelyn Pfeiffer
71
Ian Farmer
blues and turquoise tones of the crystal
clear waters and the native forests along the
shores. If you are lucky, you may spot the
“star” inhabitant of the reserve, the huemul
(hippocamelus bisulcus). Remember to bring
your camera so you can take advantage of
the trip to capture some unforgettable
shots. Ask the captain to let you off in
the Sector Las Correntadas, alongside the
CONAF Camping Area. This is a great place
to practice your fishing skills and a beautiful
spot for a rest. If you’d like, you can arrange
to camp here for the night.
When you are ready, hit the trail for your
return hike, following the shoreline of
the river. There are some brief ascents
and descents along the trail, which lead
over rocky areas. The trail will provide an
entirely different experience of the Reserve,
affording up-close views of the flora and
fauna. After approximately 3.5 Km, you’ll be
back at the starting point of the circuit, in
the Embarcadero Sector. This version of
the circuit is perfect for families!
If you want a bit more exercise, you can opt
to end your boat trip a bit further down
river (7.5 Km) in the Paleta Beach sector of
Cochrane Lake, where CONAF has some
cabins. This is an outstanding site to spot
huemules. This longer trip provides you
with the option of an 11 Km return hike,
following a trail which climbs to a small
Ranger Station, called El Húngaro. From this
72
Station, you can either hike down to the
Visitor Reception Center in the Entrance
to the Reserve, or make your way back to
Cochrane along the gravel road you will
encounter.
The views of the lake and the river, plus the
opportunity of spotting huemules along
the trail, make this option an excellent
alternative for those looking to combine
a bit more exercise with the special
landscapes and milestones of Tamango.
Although both of the trails for these hikes
are clearly marked, you should be attentive
to where you are and stay on the trail.
NOTES
Experience the Baker River.
This 55 Km biking or driving circuit combines views from both banks of the
Baker River making use of the historic hand-operated ferries and suspension
bridges, still essential for people living nearby.The tour covers one of the sectors
that could eventually be flooded by the proposed hydroelectric projects.
The Baker River has its source in the
southern end of Bertrand Lake. It is the
second-longest and most powerful river in
Chile (the longest being the Loa River). The
surface of its hydrographic basin is 26,726
Km² and creates a unique and important
ecosystem where endemic plants grow
and reproduce in pristine and diverse
landscapes.
The turquoise color of the river's water
is due to the sediments that come from
the impressive glaciers of the Northern
Patagonian Ice Fields, which give birth to the
rivers that flow into General Carrera and
Bertrand Lakes. As the Baker River makes
its way to the fiords it is fed by a number
of other rivers, including the Cochrane,
Chacabuco, Nef, Ñadis, Del Salto,Vargas and
Colonia Glaciers.
•
•
•
•
•
Activity Type: Vehicle or Bike Tour
Sector: Baker River, near Cochrane
Starting Point: City of Cochrane
Ending Point: City of Cochrane
Considerations: The circuit crosses
the Baker River via a ferry which is
dependent on the operator's schedule
and conditions of the River. You should
plan to cross from 10h00 to 12h00
or from 15h00 to 17h00. Contact the
municipality or the police in Cochrane
to check current road conditions. The
circuit travels through gravel back roads
which can be in rough shape at times.
On the west bank of the river, there
are no services. Help, in the event of a
flat tire or other difficulties, depends on
you and/or the good will of passersby.
Plan on being self-sufficient.
• Distance: 55 Km
• Duration: 2 - 6 hours.
• Seasonality: All year, depending on
weather, river, and road conditions.
• Difficulty: This is a great driving
circuit for 4x4 vehicles. For cyclists this
is a challenging one-day route but there
are places along the way where you
can stop and camp for the night.
The Circuit: Departing north from
Cochrane on the Carretera Austral, travel
Patrick McGarry
73
8 Km before turning off to the left (there
is a sign indicating Balsa Baker), and heading
down to the riverside. At the crossroads,
you will encounter panoramic views of
the Baker River, Valley Grande, and Colonia
Glacier.
Due to the great force of the Baker River,
the construction of bridges to connect rural
areas is costly and can only be accomplished
in certain places. In many cases a more
feasible solution involved building a pair of
docks and installing a ferry and operator.
Such was the case with the Baker Ferry,
which you will encounter in the sector
named Balsa del Baker. Here, government
ferries provide transport for vehicles from
one side of the river to the other.
The ferry operators are experts in the
River and their job, allowing you to simply
enjoy the experience and marvel at how
ferries with no motors can cross using only
the force of the River's flow. It is interesting
to see how the operator handles the cables
that join the raft to the main cable hanging
across the river.
Once you reach the other side, continue
upriver, following the road along the shores
for 16½ Km, towards El Manzano Bridge.
During the journey there are spectacular
views of the Baker River, Valley Chacabuco,
and all the surrounding mountains. Some
parts of the road can be rough so relax and
take your time. There are several places to
get out of the car, take pictures, and enjoy
the landscape.
Trace Gale
This is a great first excursion when
you begin to travel through the Circuit.
Returning along the Carretera Austral
towards Cochrane, watch for Route
83 on the left, after around 11 Km.
Taking this turn-off connects you with
the middle of Section 1A of the first
Stage of the Undiscovered Patagonia
Circuit and the Chacabuco Valley.
Along the south bank of the Baker River,
after crossing El Manzano Bridge, you will
pass through La Violeta farm. This farm is
rich in native species of flora, mainly ñire
(nothofagus antarcticus), lenga (nothofagus
pumilio) and coigüe (nothofagus dombeyi).
It offers great spots for observing fauna,
like the red fox (lycalopex culpaeus), eagles
(geranoaetus melanoleucus) and Andean
condors (vultur gryphus). The side road
leads back to the Carretera Austral, (Route
7), where you can head south (right) for
28 Km, returning to your starting point in
Cochrane.
Ian Farmer
74
Introducing Patagonia’s newest Park.
As you begin your journey through Undiscovered Patagonia, you will soon
find yourself meandering through Valley Chacabuco, an immense track
of privately protected lands, marked for restoration, conservation and
creation of the future Patagonia National Park. Conservación Patagónica,
the owner, has been working since 2004 to restore massive stretches
of Grasslands, build camping areas and trails, and a state-of-the-art
Visitor Center powered with energy derived from renewable sources.
The landscape includes vast expanses of
Patagonian Grasslands, magnificent Austral
Steppe, dense beech forests and high
Andean peaks. There are countless rivers
and streams, wetlands, lagoons and lakes.
Together, these varied natural features offer
a safe haven for a vast diversity of fauna,
ranging from the nearly extinct huemul
(hippocamelus bisulcus), a prolific guanaco
population (lama guanicoe), and all kinds of
smaller creatures, e.g., the large four-eyed
frog (pleurodema bufonina).
Over the centuries, these lands have had
a variety of human inhabitants, including
indigenous hunter–gatherer tribes and
more recently, large ranching companies.
These caretakers have intertwined their
enormous anthropological legacy with the
natural history of the area. For example,
during most of the 1900s, this area was
utilized as an enormous (70,000 ha)
Estancia to raise sheep and cattle. The
ranching operations took a heavy toll on
the ecosystem, leaving massive impacts,
e.g., erosion, deforestation, road-building,
fencing,, fire damage, non-native animal
species, and invasive plants.
In 2004, former Patagonia Clothing Company
CEO, Kristine Tompkins, bought the
Estancia through the non-profit foundation,
Conservación Patagónica. Her aim was
to restore the natural ecosystem’s balance
and permanently protect it. Since that time,
the Foundation, helped by thousands of
volunteers, has been working to restore the
lands to pre-Estancia conditions. They have
removed 20,000 sheep, 3,000 head of cattle
and more than 540 Km of fencing.
Their protection strategy includes you. By
establishing the area as Patagonia Park,
they hope to generate a new and more
sustainable economic engine in the sector.
They are building state-of-the-art camping
areas, trails, and a Visitor's Center powered
with energy derived from renewable
sources.
Evelyn Pfeiffer
Their vision extends further than the
massive boundaries of their own lands.
Patagonia Park, aka, Valley Chacabuco,
sits in between two existing Chilean
National Reserves; Lago Jeinimeni National
Reserve and Tamango. Once the Valley
Chacabuco work is complete, the vision is
to join these lands with the two Chilean
National Reserves through a donation of
historic proportions that would create
one enormous National Park with nearly
245,000 protected and connected hectares
for wildlife conservation and wilderness
style recreation.
75
A new legacy for an ancient Valley.
The history of the Chacabuco Valley has intertwined nature and human for
millenniums. First, hunter-gatherer tribes roamed the area in search of food and
refuge. Later, ranching consumed almost the entire length of the valley with an
enormous Estancia spreading across 70,000 hectares! Today, a new chapter is
being written. And, what of the future? Your visit could play an important role.
Catalina Huidobro
Preliminary archaeological study has
identified more than three hundred
sites of interest in the Chacabuco Valley.
These sites provide evidence that huntergatherer groups moved through the Valley
for thousands of years, using this area as a
transit route from the eastern steppe to the
southwest shores of General Carrera Lake.
Millenniums later, in 1915, Don Lucas Bridges
began a new chapter for the Chacabuco
Valley, moving thousands of sheep from the
Steppe in Argentina to establish Estancia
Valley Chacabuco, which soon became one
of the largest livestock ranches in Chile.
Like most large ranchers of his generation,
he was armed with great determination, but
little ecological awareness. He implemented
a series of management actions for
the Estancia. They provided economic
growth for the local area for a number
of decades. But, like many “empires”, his
actions left devastating impacts on the local
environment; their scope only now being
76
understood.
Bridges and his workers widened and
improved an existing path connecting the
Steppe with the Pacific coast. This enabled
the passage of mules that transported
thousands of kilos of wool, each year.
Interestingly, theorists are considering the
possibility that this same path was used
by the hunter-gatherer groups in earlier
millenniums.
To protect the Estancia’s investments
(30,000+ sheep), employees hunted the
native cougars that frequently preyed on
flocks. Hunting eventually put this animal in
danger of extinction.
To keep their livestock contained and
organized, they constructed an elaborate
maze of fencing, using more than 6,000
strands of wire. Unfortunately, this maze
was a significant hurdle for native species
like huemul (hippocamelus bisulcus) and
guanaco (lama guanicoe), who thrived on
to eventually link this site with two adjoining
National Reserves, Tamango and Jeinimeni,
so that together, these three Protected
Areas can form one enormous Patagonia
National Park. To support this vision, they
are creating critical park infrastructure,
including camping areas, a restaurant, and
hiking trails.
Evelyn Pfeiffer
As progress continues toward the creation
of their vision for a Patagonia National
Park, the scars created by fences, livestock
trails, and overgrazing, have begun to close.
Visitation is creating a new economic
future for both Valley Chacabuco and
the surrounding areas. Former Estancia
workers, scientists, and Park managers are
now joining forces around the changing land
management strategies of Valley Chacabuco.
Your visit is important to their mission.
free range. Encroachment forced native
fauna into ever smaller areas, pressuring
their populations. Stresses were further
accentuated by hunting and the dogs that
worked the ranch.
During most of the twentieth century,
ranching was the dominant activity in the
Chacabuco Valley. Ranching provided jobs
for 100s of people in the area during those
years. However, when increasing wool
production in Australia began to lower
international prices for wool, Patagonia
ranching became increasingly less profitable.
Strategies for recovering losses were based
on the accumulation of yet more sheep;
thus, improving the efficiency of the lands
in producing wool. Unfortunately, this
practice resulted in overgrazing of the
lands and further degradation of the soils
and ecosystems. The practice proved
unsustainable, and by the late 1990s, the
Estancia was no longer a viable proposition.
In 2004, a new legacy began for the
Chacabuco Valley. Conservación Patagónica,
an international non-profit conservation
organization,
purchased
the Valley
Chacabuco Estancia. They gradually sold off
the livestock and began work to restore the
soils, native plants and wildlife. Their vision is
Cristian Solis
77
Hiking in Valley Chacabuco.
Conservación Patagónica has completed three official hiking routes,
which provide visitors the opportunity to experience a variety of areas
within Patagonia Park. Hiking off-trail is also permitted. Check-in with
the Administration team to share your plans and obtain permission.
Patrick McGarry
Hiking in Valley Chacabuco provides unique
opportunities to observe the changes in
an ecosystem as it is restored to its natural
state. Patagonia Park has, as of October
2012, completed three official hiking routes.
These trails provide visitors a variety of hiking
experiences within the western end of the
Chacabuco Valley. You will be immersed in
the landscapes of the Patagonian Grasslands
and native transitional forests. Breathtaking
views of the valley and the high Andean
peaks fill the horizon. You will encounter
infinite rivers and streams, wetlands, lakes
and lagoons. A variety of fauna make their
home in this sector, including the huemul
(hippocamelus bisulcus), a native deer in
danger of extinction, and hundreds of herds
of guanaco (lama guanicoe).
Your walks will take you through both the
natural and anthropological history of the
Park. You’ll pass through the historic areas
of the ranch, where you will see examples
of a typical Estancia family cemetery; yet, be
constantly surrounded by the now-thriving
78
characteristics of the Patagonian Grassland
ecosystem in its natural state. And this is
only the beginning. Check with the Park
Visitor Center when you arrive to see what
new trails have been completed.
The developed routes include a short hike
to a historic cemetery; a slightly longer
hike passing through wetlands and lagoons,
and the more challenging Laguna Altas
Trekking Loop, which provides a longer,
more physical, full day hike. Trails depart
from either the Patagonia Park Visitor Area
or at the Westwinds Campground, a nearby
area designed for tent camping, with hot
showers and an area for washing dishes.The
trekking season is year-round, depending on
weather and snow cover. We recommend
checking on the trail conditions with the
Administration Center before starting each
hike.
A walk to the Cisnes Lagoon
in Patagonia Park.
Great 2-3 hour walking trail with lots of native fauna and bird
life. Perfect for the whole family. It’s close to the road – but you’ll
feel like you’ve escaped into wilderness and pure nature!
• Activity Type: Hiking & Birding
• Sector: Area surrounding the
Patagonia Park Visitor Center in the
Chacabuco Valley
• Starting Point: Park Visitor Center
• Ending Point: Park Visitor Center
• Considerations: Visitors should
check-in with park administration staff,
let them know you are hiking, learn
about the Conservación Patagónica
project, inquire about trail conditions
and request a complimentary trail map.
• Distance: 7 Km
• Seasonality: Year Round
• Difficulty: Apt for all, including kids.
The Route: From the Visitor Center,
follow the main road, passing along the
airstrip. After crossing the field, the road
starts to climb slightly and on the left side,
you will see a low rock fence. As you climb,
the road passes through wetlands and
lagoons until you reach a small, unnamed
lagoon. From the shores of this lagoon,
you’ll have a great view of the Cisnes
Lagoon, where you can always spot birds.
We recommend you bring along binoculars,
a field guide and patience! The birds in this
area include the yellow-billed teal (anas
flavirostris), Chilean or brown pintail (anas
Rodrigo Merino
georgica spinicauda), bronze-winged duck
(speculanas specularis) and black-necked
Swans (cygnus melancoryphus), which build
their nests along the shore. On the way
back, you’ll pass the area where the lagoon
drains into a brook, and follow alongside for
a while, before heading across the grassy
field, to the Visitor Center.
Evelyn Pfeiffer
79
Walk the cemetery circuit
in Patagonia Park.
This easy 2 hour walk provides the opportunity to observe wildlife
and gain an interesting perspective of pioneer heritage.
• Activity Type: Hiking
• Sector: Area surrounding the
Patagonia Park Visitor Center in the
Chacabuco Valley
• Starting Point: Park Visitor Center
• Ending Point: Park Visitor Center
• Considerations: Visitors should
• Length of trail: 6 Km
• Duration of Activity: 2 hours
• Season: All year.
• Difficulty: This is a route for
everyone, including young children.
The Route: This simple circuit can be
done on foot or bicycle; even with a baby
carriage. Leaving the Visitor Center, take the
road that crosses the creek. During this first
part of the route you will be able to see
the Park infrastructure being developed,
including a state-of-the-art Visitor Center,
Administrative Center, and restaurant.
Sustainable construction practices used
durable materials that require with minimal
maintenance. Many of the materials are
native to the area, e.g., rocks from the same
valley. Other sustainable choices include
the election of copper roofs, radiant heating
systems, passive solar lighting and water
treatment using non-conventional energy
options.
A few meters from the Lodge at Valley
Chacabuco, you will encounter the old
cemetery for the Estancia. During the early
days of ranching in this area, the town of
Cochrane was still being constructed. Many
of the workers of the Estancia lived with
their families, here in the valley. During these
80
Catalina Huidobro
years, the Estancia functioned similar to a
town; it provided stores, housing, meeting
areas and even a small school. The historic
cemetery is one of several burial sites in
the Valley; some more formal than others. It
contains the graves of some of the Estancia
employees and their families.
Today the cemetery is no longer used;
however, some of the earlier traditions
remain. For example, employees of the
Park still have the option of sending their
children to a small school, here in the Valley,
enabling them to be much closer and even
come home for lunch as a family, which is
a custom in this sector of Patagonia. The
current school uses an Estancia building,
which was once a barn for sheep-shearing.
It is one of the few original buildings still
standing.
Opposite the cemetery you'll notice a
grouping of workshops that assist the work
of the park. Behind these facilities, the trail
continues, passing through an open area of
Grasslands and streams, heading up to the
Westwinds Camping Area. This is a good
place to see guanaco (lama guanicoe), and
several species of birds, including buffedneck Ibis (theristicus caudatus), southern
lapwing (vanellus chilensis), and ruddyheaded goose (chloephaga rubidiceps).
From the camping area, the route follows
the gravel road, along the base of Cerro
Tamanguito, returning to the Visitor Center.
Hike the Altas Lagoons circuit
in Patagonia Park.
This challenging full-day trail provides spectacular views and the chance
to see huemul (hippocamelus bisulcus) and guanaco (lama guanicoe).
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Activity Type: Hiking
Sector: Chacabuco Valley
Starting Point: Park Visitor Center
Ending Point: Park Visitor Center
Considerations: Visitors should
Length of trail: 20 Km
Duration of Activity: 6 - 8 hours
Season: All year
Difficulty: A full day of hiking with
steep ascents and descents. Hiking
shoes and poles are recommended.
The Route: This is a great trail for
experienced hikers seeking a full day of
exercise. We recommend camping in the
Westwinds Camping Area so you can get
an early start and take the entire day for this
hike. The route is a loop. You can start from
either the Visitor Center or the Westwinds
Camping Area and go in either direction; we
recommend doing it counterclockwise.
Download the KMZ points for this hike
from the Undiscovered Patagonia Website
or pick up a map when you are in the Visitor
Center. About 3 Km from the Center, the
trail begins a steep ascent up the north
slope of Cerro Tamanguito through areas
of scrub forest. You can add an ascent to
the summit of Cerro Tamanguito (1560 m)
if you like; but, allow an extra hour or two
for this detour. Passing Cerro Tamango to
the east, the route winds between lakes,
huge boulders, rock walls and forests. It's
a beautiful sector and a great place to take
a break and have lunch. Don’t be surprised
to see guanaco (lama guanicoe), eagles
(geranoaetus melanoleucus), and Andean
condors (vultur gryphus), during your break.
Leaving the sector of forests and lagoons,
you will have a spectacular view of the
Chacabuco Valley. From here the route has
a steep descent for a bit before leveling off
with a gentler slope, through forests and
then open areas of Grasslands. As you
reach the Valley, you'll enter a wetland area
before meeting up with the road between
Westwinds Camping and the Visitor Center.
Cody Stekley
81
Celebrate the Route of the
Huemul Festival.
Each year, on the third weekend of January, a festival is held to celebrate the
huemul (hippocamelus bisulcus) and the critical habitat of Valley Chacabuco
and the Tamango and Tamanguito mountains. The main event is a 2
day group trek called the “Route of the Huemul”.The hike attracts local,
national and international participants who love ecotourism and nature.
premiers, lectures, cultural events, typical
gastronomy and music. The main event of
the festival is a 2 day, 26 Km trek that travels
between Patagonia Park and the Tamango
National Reserve.
Trace Gale
Patagonia Park, in Valley Chacabuco, lies on
the other side of the Tamango/ Tamanguito
mountains from the Tamango National
Reserve and the town of Cochrane.
From the vantage point of the huemul
(hippocamelus bisulcus), the joined territory
of the two protected areas represents one
of the largest ranges of habitat remaining in
Patagonia.
The Route of the Huemul Festival was
created to celebrate and promote
understanding of this endangered animal,
which is of high priority for Conservación
Patagónica and emblematic of the Tamango
National Reserve and the Cochrane
Municipality. Normally, the event takes
place during the third weekend in January
and includes a variety of activities, like film
82
Each year the hike gains in popularity,
gathering together a large number of
national and international participants who
love ecotourism and outdoor life. In 2012,
close to 100 people participated in the
trek. This is the upper limit imposed by the
conservation entities involved in the event.
So, if you are interested in joining the group,
we suggest contacting the Municipality of
Cochrane well in advance, to reserve your
limited space. You can hike the Route of
the Huemul independently during the rest
of the year; many of the area’s specialized
guides are experts in the route.
This brief passage, written for
the Conservación Patagónica blog
provides a good perspective of
the spirit of the 2012 hike:
“Seven-year-old Juanjo, the youngest to hike
this year, had never gone hiking before he
set out on the 26 Km trek. Neither had his
mother, who was eager to introduce her son
to the nature around their hometown but had
little outdoor experience herself. Both of them,
along with numerous others, ended the route
with sore muscles but newfound interest in
exploring the nature reserves out their back
door. For hikers with more experience, the Ruta
represents less a physical challenge than a
unique chance to make new friends and share
stories. We split the hundred hikers into eight
groups, which hike together both days.”
Just who is this guy and what’s his story? Read this
“tell-all” to find out the real deal.
Evelyn Pfeiffer
The Huemul, or South Andean Deer,
(hippocamelus bisulcus), is a mammal of the
family Cervidae. Its primary habitat is the
Andes, in Chile and Argentina. The huemul
has a stocky build and short legs. Bucks can
www.destinopatagonia.cl
reach 165 cm in length, while does are a
little smaller. Their thick and dense coat is
beige or dark-brown, depending on the
season. Their ears and tail are from 4 to 8
cm in length. The bucks have forked antlers
that can reach 30 cm in length. They weigh
between 40 and 100 Kg. The huemul is an
herbivorous animal which feeds on bushes,
grasses and tree sprouts, as well as the
lichen found on rocks in mountainous areas.
During much of the year, the male huemul
ranges alone, while the does and their fawns
live in small family groups of 2 or 3; however,
this depends on the time of year and the
mating cycle.
In the 16th century, huemules inhabited
the entire southern region of South
America, beginning at latitude, 34º S, within
the Mendoza Province in Argentina and
the Metropolitan Region of Chile. Their
habitat extended all the way to the Strait
of Magellan. Over the next 400 years,
human encroachment within the huemul’s
natural habitat produced profound
impacts.
Human settlement was the
83
catalyst for deforestation, fragmentation
of habitat following the construction of
roads, and further threats resulting from
the introduction of non-native species like
white-tailed deer (odocoileus virginianus)
and red deer (cervus elaphus) for sport
hunting, the presence of livestock, dogs, and
poaching.
NOTES
By the end of the 20th century, scientists
estimated the total huemul population to be
between 1000 and 2000 animals, which are
concentrated in large part, in the Andean or
sub-Antarctic forests of Patagonia. Currently,
the huemul is classified as endangered in
the Chilean and Argentinean Red Data
Books of Vertebrates and is also listed
in the Appendix I of CITES and UNEP/
CMS Conventions. This species has been
protected by law since 1929 in Chile, and
1989 in parts of Argentina; however, experts
believe that further action must be taken.
While huemul conservation and study are
primary objectives for 13 national parks
of Chile and 6 in Argentina, resources are
extremely limited. More research is needed
and in particular, Visitor Use Plans must be
implemented for priority Protected Areas.
Thus, the efforts taking place in Patagonia
Park and the Tamango National Reserve are
of paramount importance for the survival of
the huemul species.
Source: Jiménez, J., Guineo, G., Corti, P, Smith, J.A.,
Flueck, W., Vila, A., Gizejewski, Z., Gill, R., McShea, B. &
Geist, V. 2008. Hippocamelus bisulcus. In: IUCN 2012.
IUCN Red List of Threatened Species. Version 2012.1.
www.iucnredlist.org.
Trace Gale
84
You can hike the Route of the Huemul at any time during
the season, alone or with a specialized guide.This article
explains the basic route for this great 2 day hike.
• Activity Type: Overnight Trekking
• Sector: Valley Chacabuco y the
Tamango National Reserve
• Starting Point: Patagonia Park,
Valley Chacabuco
• Ending Point: Visitor Reception
Office, Tamango National Reserve
• Considerations: We recommend
that you register your plans with the
Patagonia Park Visitor Center in Valley
Chacabuco and also with the CONAF
offices in Cochrane, where you will
need to pay the entrance fees for the
Reserve. You should carry all your
equipment and food and coordinate
transport to return to Cochrane from
the Visitor Reception Office, Tamango
National Reserve.
• Distance: 25 Km (Day 1 - 14 Km +
Day 2 - 11 Km.)
• Duration: 2 days hiking, 1 night
camping
• Seasonality: November - April
• Difficulty: You should be in good
health and have experience with back
country trekking and charting routes
for unmarked trails.
Day 1 (14 Km): The hike starts from the
Westwinds Camping area or the Visitors
Center and follow the same trail as the Altas
Lagoons Hike, ascending along the edge of
Cerro Tamanguito. In this area it is common
to see herds of guanaco (lama guanicoe).
After hiking approximately 4 Km, you will
the see a sign which reads “Km 16”. Head
east, at this sign, following the route toward
the Escondida Lagoon.
You’ll pass through meadows, healthy
forests and burnt forests, generally making
your way south. During this section, you will
be in the heart of huemul (hippocamelus
bisulcus) habitat. Remember to tread lightly.
Cody Stekley
If you observe huemul, do not approach
or disturb their natural activities. As you
descend to Cochrane Lake the horizon will
be filled with spectacular views of Cerro
San Lorenzo and Argentina. Toward the
end of the day you will reach the Paleta
Beach, along the shores of the lake, where
you can camp or stay in the CONAF cabins
(arrange your reservation in advance). It is
very common to share this camping area
with huemules.
Day 2 (11 Km): Follow the trail which
climbs to a small shelter and then levels off
on the way to the Visitor Reception Center
in the entrance of the Reserve. When you
reach the Center, you can keep going along
the gravel road back to Cochrane. You can
also coordinate a taxi or other transport to
meet you at the Reserve.
85
Explore the Casa de Piedra
Area in Patagonia Park.
As you make your way down the Valley, take a break from the road for this off-trail
trek to the top of the mountain near the Casa de Piedra Puesto (Stone House)
that affords a distinct vantage point, making it easy to imagine the ancient
movements of the hunter-gatherer tribes who hunted and traversed these lands.
• Activity Type: Off-trail Hiking
• Circuit Sector: Near the
confluence of the Aviles and
Chacabuco Rivers, where the Park is
developing Stone House Camping Area,
which is scheduled to open in 2013.
• Starting Location: Stone House
Camping Area
• Ending Location: Stone House
Camping Area
• Considerations: Register with the
Park’s Visitor Center, informing them
of plans to hike and/or camp. KMZ
reference points are available in the
Undiscovered Patagonia website.
• Distance: Approximately 6 Km
• Duration of Activity: 3 - 6 hours
• Seasonality: All year
• Difficulty: This hike involves steep
ascents and descents. There is no
marked trail. Hikers should be in good
physical condition & have experience
with GPS or compass hiking.
The Route: The route begins at the
stone bridge over the Chacabuco River
near the new Stone House Camping Area,
projected to be ready in 2013. Keep in mind,
this is not an established or marked trail; it
is simply a GPS Route, which provides a
reference for off-trail hikers. After parking
your car or bike out of the way of traffic,
orient yourself, take a starting point on your
compass or GPS and begin hiking, diagonally
up, on the east side of the hill, following the
natural paths created by wildlife and ancient
glaciation.
The glaciation tracks begin faintly as you
climb through scrub and erratic trees; but,
become increasingly clear, allowing you to
easily imagine a time when this hill and the
entire Valley were covered by slowly moving
ice. The top, (1,050 m), affords a privileged
view of Valley Chacabuco, foreshadowing
secrets to be revealed in the next Sections
and Stage 2 of the Circuit.
Cristian Solis
86
and great photography. Cerro de los Indios
provided shelter for hunter gather tribes,
who left their mark, through paintings and
petroglyphs, painted more than 3,800 years
ago.
NOTES
Cristian Solis
As you look out over the Valley, consider the
possibility that thousands of years before, a
young hunter stood in the same place as
you, hoping to spot guanaco or huemul.
Evidence indicates the presence of huntergatherer tribes in the Valley between 800
and at least 3,000 years ago. Little is known
of their life in these sectors. Archaeologists
have conducted surface surveying and
a few excavations, but much work is still
pending. Their studies have uncovered
several Tehuelche camps; but, it is unclear
whether they were simply passing through
looking for a route to the sea, hunting, or
using the Valley as a permanent camp.
As you move into the next Sections of the
Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit, you can visit
and learn more about the ancient Tehuelche
culture through important archaeological
sites, including the UNESCO World
Heritage Site, the Cueva de las Manos,
near Bajo Caracoles, Argentina. Hipolito
Yrigoyen, Argentina (or Lago Posadas, as it
is popularly referred), is home to another
important rock art and archaeological site,
the Cerro de los Indios, which many argue
is pivotal for the understanding of ancient
hunter-gatherer cultures in Patagonia. Its
red rock walls change color with the light
of dusk, providing dramatic sunset views
Cristian Solis
87
Crossing borders between
Chile and Argentina.
There are two border crossings within the Circuit: Paso Roballos - Rodolfo
Roballos and Paso Laguna/Lago del Desierto - Paso Hito IV-0-B (Paso
Dos Lagunas). Crossing the border between Chile and Argentina is not
complicated and this guide will help avoid delays and frustrations.
Cristian Solis
There are four components to consider
with regard to the border crossing protocols
between Argentina and Chile: 1) Security,
2) Immigration, 3) Customs, and
4) Animal-Agricultural Control.
1) The role of Security Control is
to collect and verify the identification and
legal histories of travelers as they leave
one country and enter another. In Chile,
these protocols are managed by the
Investigations Police, (PDI), however, PDI
staffs are only present in the busiest border
crossings. In smaller, rural crossings like the
ones in this Circuit, local Police Personnel
support the protocols. Although there is
an agreement between these entities to
share data, we advise Chilean travelers to
begin the process in one of the nearest
towns; specifically, in Cochrane or Villa
O'Higgins. In town, the authorities will
review your documents, provide you with
a Safe Conduct Certificate and ensure that
everything is in order so that you can travel
to Argentina. If you are a foreigner to Chile
88
and Argentina, you'll need your passport
and the Immigration Form issued in Chile (if
coming from there). 2) Immigration Control seeks
to control the entry and exit of people
through an immigration form and display
of proper identification. For citizens
or residents of countries within the
MERCOSUR agreement, (Argentina, Brazil,
Chile, Colombia, Ecuador, Paraguay, Uruguay,
Bolivia and Peru), a National Identity
Card or passport can be used. For other
countries, visitors must have a passport and
comply with visa regulations.
Upon entering Chile one must complete
an immigration form, (one form for each
person in the group). Keep these papers;
you will be required to present them when
you leave! If not traveling in the presence of both
parents, children under the age of 18
must present notarized authorization from
the parent not traveling with the child. Be
prepared with at least 4 extra, officially
notarized and authorized, copies of this
consent, as you will need to leave copies
with both the Chilean and Argentinean
Immigration Control staff, when you cross
the border. In Chile, you'll want to start this
process in the Police Offices in Cochrane or
Villa O'Higgins, before reaching the crossing.
You'll also need to bring a birth certificate
certifying the paternity of the child and their
national identification, in the proper form.
3) Customs Control monitors goods
and vehicles entering and exiting the
country. During your crossing, you will be
required to declare goods with customs
controls, and likely be subject to a review
of goods by the Police, Gendarme, and
Agricultural Service. Plant and animal
products, chemicals, etc, are subject to
approval of these Control Services and
must comply with the laws and codes of
each country. You should use the forms
provided during the crossing process
to declare personal goods, e.g., I-Phones,
notebook computers, cameras, etc, as you
leave one country and enter the next. This
will help avoid misunderstandings and the
possibility of having to pay taxes for these
products, by clarifying that they were not
purchased during your time abroad. On
your return crossing, only declare goods
purchased during your travels that are not a
part of your original personal baggage. You
are allowed to bring in goods purchased
during your trip without paying a tax, within
the limits established by each country.
glass of the windows of the car.
• If you do not own the vehicle, you must
have the authorization of the owner,
including rental cars, certified by a
notary public.
• Make sure the Rental Car Company
has the paperwork for crossing the
border complete and in order, before
accepting the vehicle.
• Possess and display a valid driver's
license.
The Argentina-Chile Agreement regarding
the Temporary Admission of Motor Vehicles
mandates that drivers complete and submit
a Temporary Output and Admission of
Vehicles form.
In Chile, to prevent money laundering,
persons who leave the country carrying
a sum in excess of $10,000 (US), in cash,
must declare these actions. Failure to
comply with this order could result in a fine
of 30% of the undeclared money.
4) Animal and Agricultural
Control provides disease prevention and
control mechanisms to protect native flora
and fauna and prevent the introduction of
pests and diseases through the interception
of hazardous goods. The protocols include
a signed declaration from all adult travelers
and a revision of vehicles and baggage,
To cross a border in a private
vehicle, you must:
• Provide the Green Card, (Argentina),
or the Certificate of Registration in the
National Registry of Motor Vehicles,
(Chile), commonly called a Patron,
which proves vehicle ownership.
• Provide the Compulsory Insurance
Policy covering damages to third
parties, with international coverage. You
can buy short-term policies of this type,
in Coyhaique and Chile Chico, Chile.
• Argentina requires Argentine vehicles
to have the automotive alphanumeric
number of the chassis engraved on the
Cristian Solis
89
Cristian Solis
overseen by the National Customs Service,
Gendarmería or Border Police. To enter
Chile, this form is called a Declaration Form
for the Agriculture and Livestock Service
(SAG) and the National Customs Service.
It lists the products that are banned from
entering the country.
Some Practical Advice:
• We suggest making a list of all of the
items you are carrying in your luggage.
This will make your crossing easier.
• Carry local currencies (both Chilean
and Argentine pesos). This is necessary
for the payment of any taxes or tolls at
the borders.
• Be very clear about the terms
of compulsory insurance policies
purchased in Chile, particularly in
regards to third party liability. Once in
Argentina it is not possible to extend
or amend coverage.
• If you wish to bring any food into Chile
from Argentina, you must declare that
you are transporting a plant or animal
product. The process is clear. On the
form, you can read a list of products
that are banned to enter. NOTES
90
This self-guided full day tour travels along country roads through
the Patagonian Austral Steppe, providing opportunities to see plenty
of the flora and fauna, and to visit important Tehuelche sites, like
the Cerro de los Indios in Hipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas.
Cody Stekley
Take your time during this great adventure.
Enjoy a picnic, a walk on the beach, and
a visit to the small town of Lago Posadas,
where you can enjoy a great lunch and learn
about pre-Columbian history of this zone.
• Activity Type: Back roads tour by
4x4, or bike.
• Sector: Between Paso Roballos, Lago
Ghio, Hipolito Yrigoyen (Lago Posadas)
and Bajo Caracoles.
• Starting Point: Leaving the
Argentine Border Post in Paso Roballos,
travel 17.7 Km along Provincial Route
41, until you come to a turn-off to
the south (right). This turn off is the
starting point for this adventure.
• Ending Point: Crossroads of
Provincial Route 39 and National
Route 40, at Bajo Caracoles, which
begins Section 2A of the Undiscovered
Patagonia Circuit.
• Considerations: This circuit travels
through gravel back roads which can be
in rough shape at times. There are no
services, so in the event of a flat tire or
other difficulties, help depends on you
and/or the good will of the ranchers
who live on the Estancias in the area.
Plan on being self-sufficient. The gravel
Cody Stekley
91
•
•
•
•
roads between Lago Ghio and Lago
Posadas are not clearly marked. If you
get lost, ask for directions at one of the
many Estancias in the area.
Distance: 175 Km, depending on
your choice of routes.
Duration: Depends on the visitor.
Min. 6 hours, Max. 2 or 3 days.
Seasonality: October – May
Difficulty: This is a great day
driving circuit for 4x4 vehicles. While
challenging as a one-day route for
cyclists, there are places along the way
where you can stop and camp.
The Route: The back roads sector,
between Paso Roballos, Lago Ghio,
Hipolito Yrigoyen (Lago Posadas), and Bajo
Caracoles, offers visitors a great opportunity
to explore the Austral Steppe. That said,
it’s important to keep in mind that the
gravel roads between Lago Ghio and Lago
Posadas are not well marked. Follow the
directions and when in doubt, stick to the
road most-traveled, which will be evident
during your adventure.
Leaving the Argentine Border Post in Paso
Roballos, travel 17.7 Km along Provincial
Route 41, until you come to a turn-off to
the south (right). Turn, and follow this road
for 1 Km, until you see the buildings of an
Estancia and another crossroad. Here, turn
right again, (south), and follow the winding
country road for 42 Km, when you will
reach its crossing with Provincial Route
39 (3 Km from Hipolito Yrigoyen - Lago
Posadas). Turn west, (right), on Provincial
Route 39. Once you’ve had a break in town,
you may decide to keep exploring. There
are many Tehuelche rock-painting sites in
the area and the lakes are just another 30
Km. When leaving, you can reconnect with
the Circuit at the beginning of Section 2A,
by following Provincial Route 39 east for
approximately 102 Km, to National Route
40, in Bajo Caracoles.
During the trip, you’ll observe the flora
and fauna of the Austral Steppe, amazing
rock colors and formations, turquoise
lakes, pebbled beaches, and much more.
The tiny town of Hipolito Yrigoyen, (Lago
Posadas), is full of hidden secrets, including
boutique hotels, beautiful camping spots,
gourmet Italian food, and GASOLINE!
We recommend visiting Restaurant del
Posada, for great Italian food, like gnocchi.
The owner is an expert guide for the preColumbian Tehuelche history that prevails in
this zone. His stories, collection of artifacts,
and tours are amazing! We also suggest
a visit to the Tourism Information Office,
which you’ll find a block away, both on the
main street in town, Av. San Martin.
Continuing west, past the town, you’ll start
seeing the views of the beautiful lake sector,
in approximately 34 Km. Watch for signage
indicating the short side road leading to the
Arco de Piedra, a rock arch in the middle of
the lake, formed from crashing waves over
thousands of years. Further down the main
road, (approximately 10 Km), you’ll arrive at
a rocky lake front beach along the natural
land bridge that cuts between Posadas and
Pueyrredón lakes. The beach offers options
for swimming, hiking, or simply basking in the
raw beauty of the lakes’ colors.
We suggest incorporating this excursion
into your plans after you cross into
Argentina, at Paso Roballos. Consider the
option of spending the night in Hipolito
Yrigoyen, (Lago Posadas), where there are
great little hotels and options for dining,
refueling, and buying all the supplies you’ll
need for the route toward El Chaltén.
Evelyn Pfeiffer
92
Posadas, pastas, and petroglyphs
await in Hipolito Yrigoyen.
Hipolito Yrigoyen, also known as Lago Posadas, is a tiny town in the northwest
corner of the province of Santa Cruz, Argentina, just 70 Km from National
Route 40 and Bajo Caracoles.The town is a hidden gem; known only to
those who leave the beaten path on the quest for new discoveries.
Like many small towns in Patagonia, the
first settlers arrived in the area of Lago
Posadas during the early twentieth century,
establishing large sheep Estancias. The
town of Lago Posadas naturally emerged
during the 1920s to support the activities
of the Posadas Estancia. Things began
with a general store, belonging to rancher,
González Pedroso, who later donated one
of his bunkhouses, so that the Province of
Santa Cruz could open a tiny school. And
so things went until 1959, when the town
was officially founded, under the name of
Hipólito Yrigoyen, (although local folks still
call it Lago Posadas).
A strategic position along the border with
Chile afforded Lago Posadas its place along
the trade route for movement of animals and
bales of wool across the pampa to waiting
boats on the Atlantic coast, now known as
The Wool Route. Lago Posadas, along with
other small towns, like Bajo Caracoles and
Tres Lagos, became obligatory stopping
points for weary travelers, who could spend
the night at government supported hotels
and restaurants.
While the peak of movement from the
Estancias has come and gone, the quiet
village of Lago Posadas continues to live
in rhythm with the seasons of the Steppe,
happy to be isolated from the frenetic pace
of large urban centers. As you walk through
Hipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas, you will
sense the relaxed feel of this slower paced
lifestyle, and perhaps, even experience the
sensation of being a pioneer. How? Use
the inspirations around you and step back
a century in your mind. Here, its easy to
connect with the ranching heritage.
Actually, the roots of Lago Posadas go much
Patrick McGarry
deeper. Imagine yourself into the mysterious
world of the pre-Columbian Tehuelche,
whom have left evidence of their ways of
life within the hills and caves surrounding
the area. Through their artifacts and their
art, they reveal clues about their culture and
the Steppe ecosystem, providing links to a
much earlier period in the history of this
sector.
Like most of Argentina, Lago Posadas has
Italian influences in their local culture, which
are deliciously evidenced in the gastronomy
in town. You can find great home-baked
Italian-style bread, charcuterie, gnocchi and
other home-made pastas, and sauces using
fresh vegetables from local greenhouses
and gardens. But, you have to know where
to look! We suggest starting with the
Directory of Services of the Undiscovered
Patagonia Circuit.
93
Evelyn Pfeiffer
Place to Visit & Things to Do:
NOTES
Posadas and Pueyrredón Lakes: 34 Km
west of town, you’ll encounter the peninsula
of Lakes Posadas and Pueyrredón (which,
on the Chilean side is Lake Cochrane). The
first, Posadas Lake, is a beautiful turquoise
and the second, Pueyrredón, a deep blue.
The land-bridge running between the two
lakes provides the unique opportunity
to immerse yourself in these intensely
contrasting colors.
Monte San Lorenzo: Mt San Lorenzo, with
3,700 m, is the second highest peak in the
Southern Patagonian Andes and visible on
the horizon as you gaze west toward Chile.
Cerro de los Indios (Mountain of the
Indians): Lago Posadas is the home of
one of the most important petroglyphic
and archaeological sites in the Province;
one which many argue is pivotal for the
understanding of ancient hunter-gatherer
cultures of Patagonia. Its red rock walls
rise up just 3 kilometers from the village,
changing color with the light of the setting
sun. This mountain provided shelter for
hunter-gatherer tribes, who left their mark,
through petroglyphs, painted more than
3,800 years ago.
Evelyn Pfeiffer
94
Celebrate Argentina’s
National Gnocchi Day.
Partake in this celebration and you’ll understand the Argentine
expression: “A full belly means a happy heart”.
Argentine culture has been greatly
influenced by Italy, the result of early
immigrations to this New World nation,
from Sicily, Fruiti and Genoa. Some people
even jokingly characterize Argentineans as
“Italians who happen to speak Spanish”.
You’ll note Italian influences everywhere;
politics, religion, education, fashion, language,
and definitely, FOOD!
Prepare for a rich selection of gastronomic
treats, combining both Spanish and Italian
roots with a heavy dose of Argentina’s own
local flavors and styles. While an Argentine
Asado is not to be missed, you’ll also want
to try the pizzas, pastas and Milanesas.
(Milanesas are a popular treat consisting of
thinly sliced cutlets, dipped in egg and Italian
bread crumbs and then sautéed or baked
and served as a sandwich or main dish. In
Patagonia, you’ll find them in many varieties,
including beef, chicken, fish, cheese and even,
guanaco!)
One of the most popular Argentine
dishes is gnocchi, which is a homemade
pasta typically made from potatoes. You’ll
encounter plenty of creativity though;
gnocchi can also be made from ricotta,
spinach, sweet potato, pumpkin, and all kinds
of other flavors! Almost every restaurant in
Argentina features some form of gnocchi on
their menu and you can find pre-prepared
versions in most food stores.
Gnocchi are so popular in Argentina, there’s
even a monthly holiday dedicated to their
enjoyment. On the 29th day of every
month National Gnocchi Day is celebrated.
(Yep, that’s right, one day a year just wasn’t
enough. Argentineans needed eleven days
each year dedicated to GNOCCHI!!! Why
eleven and not twelve? Think about it.)
In fact, the 29th was strategically selected.
Patrick McGarry
Typically the 29th is the “poorest” day of the
month for Argentine households; the last
day before payday; which, only comes once
a month. Gnocchi, being inexpensive but
hearty, was the perfect answer to maintain
“bellies full and hearts happy”. There’s
more! Traditionally, when eating gnocchi on
National Gnocchi Day, one peso is placed
underneath the dish as a good luck charm.
In return for the luck this gesture brings to
the eater, the peso is left for the hostess
to pay for the gnocchi ingredients for the
following month.
Regardless of your superstitious beliefs or
the day of the month, we encourage you
to enjoy a delicious plate of gnocchi during
your travels. Almost all of the restaurants in
Argentina, and most in Chile, serve gnocchi.
You can also find freshly prepared gnocchi
in many supermarkets along the route! And
keep in mind, Gnocchi is easy and fun to
make; even in the back country.
95
Cooking on the road Argentinean
style, “Gnocchi with Salsa Tuco”.
Gnocchi is fun and easy to make, using simple ingredients available in
any Patagonian market.With a few simple tricks, you can even prepare
homemade Gnocchi in the back country. Here’s all you’ll need to know for
making a batch of homemade Argentine Potato Gnocchi with Tuco Sauce.
Evelyn Pfeiffer
Making gnocchi is a fun activity that will
result in a delicious meal. In just three
simple steps, you can make a yummy plate
of Gnocchi with Tuco Sauce during your trip
or, to share at a celebration party when you
get home.
Step 1: Head into town to purchase
ingredients. The ingredients for making
Gnocchi are very basic. No matter how
small or remote the town, this dish is a great
option.
Shopping List: To make a batch of
gnocchi that will serve 4 – 6 people, all
you’ll need is 3 potatoes, a small bag of
flour (½ kilo) and a couple of eggs. For
the Tuco sauce, you’ll need a small bottle
of olive or vegetable oil, an onion, a red or
green pepper (or both), a couple of carrots,
a couple of cans of chopped tomatoes,
parsley, small packets of laurel leaves and
nutmeg and optionally, ½ kilo of stewing
beef, (there are also pre-prepared canned
96
or pouched Tuco sauce options for those in
a hurry). While you’re at it, pick up a bottle
of wine, some Parmesan cheese and a loaf
of fresh baked bread, to make the dinner
complete!
Step 2: Prepare the Sauce: Heat
4 T. of olive oil in a sauce pan at mediumlow heat. Chop the onion and peppers
and sauté for about 5 minutes. Add and
brown the meat and stir in the laurel leaves.
Grate and add the carrots and stir. Add
the tomatoes and season with a pinch of
nutmeg. Simmer until the meat is tender
(about 2 hours, depending of the kind of
meat you are using). Turn off the heat and
add chopped parsley to taste.
Step 3: Prepare the Gnocchi: While the
sauce is simmering, bring a large pot of
salted water to a boil. Peel potatoes and add
to the pot. Cook until tender but still firm,
about 15 minutes. Drain, cool and mash
with a fork or potato masher. Combine
1 cup mashed potato, flour and egg in a
large bowl. Knead until the dough forms
a ball. Shape small portions of the dough
into long "snakes". On a floured surface,
cut the snakes into half-inch slices. Bring
another large pot of lightly salted water to
a boil. Drop in your gnocchi and cook for 3
to 5 minutes or until they rise to the top.
Drain and serve, topped with Tuco sauce
and grated Parmesan cheese. Buen provecho
(Enjoy)!
NOTES
P.S. Taking Gnocchi into the back
country: Gnocchi is the perfect dish for
camping as it can be made using only dry
ingredients, water, oil, and basic cooking gear.
To make gnocchi in the back country for 2-4
persons, use a pre-packaged sauce, (often
sold in lightweight plastic pouches), and the
following recipe, based on the backpacker
staple, and dehydrated instant potato flakes.
Ingredients:
•
•
•
•
•
1 Cup instant mashed potato flakes
1 Cup flour
1 Cup boiling water
Pinch salt
Extra ¼-½ Cup flour for rolling the
dough
Preparation: In a bowl, mix the instant
potato flakes, salt and about half of the flour.
Pour the boiling water into the bowl and mix
vigorously. Then, add in the rest of the flour
and combine until you’ve formed a sticky
dough. Place the dough on a clean floured
surface and divide into four pieces. Roll each
piece in the remaining flour, making a long
snake shape. Cut into gnocchi using a knife
and then toss them into a bowl with flour
to keep them from sticking together. Add a
tablespoon of olive or vegetable oil to a pot
of water and bring to a boil on your camp
stove. Drop the gnocchi into the boiling
water, a few at a time, and stir periodically
until most float to the top (3 – 5 minutes).
Drain and serve with your sauce and grated
Parmesan cheese.
Please remember that campfires
are strictly prohibited almost
everywhere in Patagonia!
Patrick McGarry
97
Stage 1 Service Directory
Service directory for Stage 1
GENERAL – BANKING SERVICES
1A
BancoEstado (Bank)
Cochrane, CH, Esmeralda 460.
The BancoEstado is the State owned Bank of Chile & offers services primarily for Chilean citizens.
This branch office conducts all bank services for its clients & has an ATM which accepts its own bank
cards, some international network cards (e.g. Cirrus) & MasterCard (only).
1A
CONAF, Cochrane
Cochrane, CH, Río Nef 417, (0672) 522164.
www.conaf.cl/conaf/seccion-conaf-aysen.html.
CONAF´s office in Cochrane has a coverage area that includes all the Capitan Prat Province, w/
emphasis on the Tamango National Reserve. They have information on the Region´s Protected Areas,
especially those they manage. They can provide expertise regarding native (& introduced) flora &
fauna, including the huemul (hippocamelus bisulcus), which is the prime conservation focus within the
Tamango National Reserve, & helpful tips for visitors. Their office is open 10h00 - 18h00, Monday
to Saturday.
1A
Tourism Information Office, Cochrane
Cochrane, CH, Kiosk in Southeastern corner of the Plaza de Arms. (0672) 522326,
turismo@cochranepatagonia.cl.
This Tourism Information Office can provide maps, brochures, & information about tourism services
& public transportation, including the latest bus schedules & taxi information (Mondays – Saturdays,
09h00-13h00 & 14h00-21h00 January & February).
1B
Conservación Patagónica´s Private Nature Reserve, Patagonia Park
Cochrane, CH, Administration & Information Center for Conservación Patagónica &
Patagonia Park in the Chacabuco Valley, www.conservacionpatagonica.org,
info@conservacionpatagonica.org.
Come Explore a Park-in-Progress! Interested in seeing a national park in the making? Eager to explore
the rugged landscapes of the Chacabuco Valley? You’re welcome to visit the Patagonia National Park
project, but please keep in mind that the park is still several years from completion. Many of the key
facilities are not yet open, & they’re still in the trial phase of operating others. Please bear w/them,
& treat the park w/respect. The park-in-progress is free & open to the public, but they ask visitors
to understand that they are focused on completing the park. Please plan to be as self-sufficient as
possible during your visit.
1D
Department of Tourism, Hipolito Yrigoyen
Hipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas, AR, Corner of Av. San Martin & Amancay, (02963)
490260, turismolagoposadas@gmail.com.
This Tourist Information Office is helpful, w/a surprising number of pamphlets & brochures.
98
GENERAL – SAFETY
1A
Police Commissary, Cochrane
Cochrane, CH, Calle Esmeralda Nº 522, on the perimeter of the Plaza of Arms, (0672)
567164 / 133 (emergencies).
In addition to normal police functions, this Commissary, as they are referred to in Chile, is authorized
to conduct transactions related to the crossing of borders.
1C
Border Control Police, Entrada Baker
Cochrane, CH, Paso Roballos, Entrada Baker Sector, (0672) 567183.
This police post coordinates emergency responses for the route through the Chacabuco Valley to
Cochrane. You will find the Entrada Baker police post near the Paso Roballos border crossing.
1D
Argentine Administrative Offices, Roballos Border Crossing, Hipolito Yrigoyen
Hipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas, AR, San Martin, (02963) 490260,
www.gendarmerianacional.gov.ar/pasos/fichroballos.html.
The Argentine side of the Roballos Rodolfo border crossing is in the northeast corner of the province
of Santa Cruz, Argentina, connecting w/Chile, through Provincial Route 41, which travels to the
international boundary. Administrative offices are located in the village of Hipolito Yrigoyen-Lago
Posadas, where staff can assist w/questions & special procedures.
1D
Police Department, Hipolito Yrigoyen
Hipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas, AR, San Martin, (02963) 490220.
Investigation & response management in the case of incidents or accidents, & assistance w/other
aspects of travel logistics.
GENERAL – HEALTH
1A
Provincial Hospital, Cochrane
Cochrane, CH, Bernardo O’Higgins 755, (0672) 261346 / 261330 / 261337.
Equipped w/4 general medics who care for patients from the towns of Caleta Tortel, Villa O’Higgins,
Puerto Bertrand, & surrounding areas. Performs minor surgeries & administers antibiotics &
medications. 24 hour Emergency care.
1A
Rural Health Post, Hipolito Yrigoyen
Hipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas, AR, RP 39, (02963) 490267 / 490216.
This Rural Health Post, run by the Provincial Government, provides Basic Medical Services, including
general medicine, ambulance services, & preventative health services.
1A
Cochrane, CH, Esmeralda 199, (600) 502020.
Local agency w/basic postal services & office hours Monday - Friday, from 09h30 -13h00 & 15h00 19h00, & Saturday hours from 09h30 - 13h00.
99
1A
Buses Acuario 13
Cochrane, CH, Río Baker 349, (0672) / (09) 522143 / 98748022.
Buses Acuario 13 offers scheduled transportation between Coyhaique & Cochrane w/departures
most days. They also provide transfers between Cochrane, Villa O’Higgins & Tortel, 2-3 times a week.
Confirm times & make reservations in advance by visiting their office in Coyhaique or Cochrane, in
person. In other communities, we suggest you visit the Tourist Information Office, to obtain updated
schedules & details on how to make your reservations.
1A
Buses Águilas Patagónicas
Cochrane, CH, Las Golondrinas N° 339, (0672) 522020, www.aguilaspatagonicas.cl,
contacto@aguilaspatagonicas.cl.
Buses Águilas Patagónicas offers scheduled transportation between Coyhaique & Cochrane w/
departures on alternate days. They also provide transfers between Cochrane, Villa O’Higgins & Tortel,
2-3 times a week. Confirm schedules & make reservations in advance by visiting their offices, in
Coyhaique or Cochrane, in person. In other communities, we suggest you visit the Tourist Information
Office, to obtain updated schedules & details on how to make your reservations.
1A
Buses Don Carlos
Cochrane, CH, Arturo Prat N° 335, (0672) 522150.
Buses Don Carlos offers scheduled transportation between Coyhaique & Cochrane w/departures
on alternate days. Confirm schedules & make reservations in advance by visiting their offices, in
1A
Buses Sao Paulo
Cochrane, CH, Río Baker 349, (0672) / (09) 522143 / 98748022.
Buses Sao Paulo offers scheduled transportation between Coyhaique & Cochrane w/departures
on alternate days. Confirm schedules & make reservations in advance by visiting their offices, in
ID
Public Transport between Perito Moreno & Hipolito Yrigoyen
AR, Hipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas, AR, San Martin, (02963) 490260,
www.lagoposadas.com.
The Development Commission offers public transport between Perito Moreno & Hipolito Yrigoyen,
AR, free, Tuesdays during summer. 19 spots available. Contact the Commission to reserve a space.
GETTING AROUND –CHAUFFEURS & TRANSFERS
1A
Minibuses Aldea
Cochrane, CH, Las Golondrinas N° 339, (09) 81801962.
Minibuses Aldea offers scheduled transportation between Cochrane y Caleta Tortel w/4 departures
each week. Confirm times & make advance reservations, visiting their office in Cochrane or Caleta
Tortel, in person.
1A
Las Loicas Transporte
Hipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas, AR, Corner of Las Lengas & Cóndor Andino, (02963)
490272, www.lasloicas.com, info@lasloicas.com.
Overland tours offered throughout the Santa Cruz Province, including Route 40, Perito Moreno & Los
Glaciares National Park. Focus on providing a personalized service, w/small groups of approximately
10 passengers. Accommodations within Inns, Guest houses & Estancias, all of which are very warm &
welcoming places, usually maintained by their owners.
100
GETTING AROUND - GAS STATIONS & MECHANICS
1A
El Patagón
Cochrane, CH, Tte. Merino, (09) 77627026.
Mechanic - Tire patching, welding, lubrication, etc.
1A
Marvin Arriagada
Cochrane, CH, Av. Bdo. O’Higgins, (09) 92127663.
General mechanic, welding.
1A
Rolando Wellmann
Cochrane, CH, San Valentín, (0672) 522139 / 522139.
General mechanic.
1A
Servicentro Cochrane
CH, Carretera austral km 2, (0672) / (09) 522133 / 81833682,
servicentro_cochrane@yahoo.es.
Gas Station w/public bathrooms & a small Tourism Information Kiosk.
1A
Servicentro COPEC
Cochrane, CH, A. Prat N º275, (0672) 522190.
Gas Station w/diesel, unleaded gas, & motor oil.
ID
YPF Gas Station
Hipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas, AR, Corner of Chacay w/San Martin, (02963) 490267,
www.lagoposadas.com.
Operated by the Development Commission of Hipolito Yrigoyen, Santa Cruz. If you cannot find a
pump operator when you arrive, visit their office in San Martin Ave, to request service.
GETTING AROUND-BICYCLES & OTHER ALTERNATIVES
1A
Mejorenbici
Cochrane, CH, Av. Esmeralda 464, behind Café Tamango, (09) 82094957,
www.mejorenbici.cl, restrepo82@hotmail.com.
Bike rental service, guided bike tours, information for self-guided tours, technical revisions & bike
repairs. Fleet includes mountain bikes (aluminum frames, front suspension, 24 speeds, disc brakes),
children’s bicycles, accessories for long trips (saddlebags, grills, pumps), racks to carry bikes on vehicles,
& baby seats. Leases include bike, helmet, gloves, pump, etc. Support for multi-day bike trips.
WHERE TO SLEEP - TRADITIONAL LODGING
1A
Hospedaje Catita
Cochrane, CH, Arturo Prat 536, (09) 99312781.
Lodging w/breakfast ($8.000) in a comfortable, family atmosphere, run by the owner. Spacious rooms,
excellent service & parking.
1A
Hospedaje Cochrane
Cochrane, CH, Steffen 451, (0672) / (09) 522377 / 77664752, pquintana13@gmail.com.
3 bedrooms, singles, rooms w/2 twins, & matrimonial rooms w/shared bathrooms. $6.000 per person,
per night, without breakfast; $8.000 w/breakfast. ½ block from the plaza, family atmosphere, w/parking.
101
1A
Hospedaje El Bombero
Cochrane, CH, Doctor Steffen 623, (0672) 522221,
hospedajeelbombero@hotmail.com.
Capacity for 20 people within 9 rooms ($7.000 - $15.000) configured in a mixture of doubles, triples
& matrimonials, w/shared bathrooms & parking. Laundry service; guests have access to the kitchen.
1A
Hospedaje Paola
Cochrane, CH, Lago Brown 150, (0672) 522215.
This comfortable Hospedaje offers 9 rooms ($9.000/person), including options for singles, doubles &
a matrimonial. Service includes breakfast.
1A
Hotel Ultimo Paradise
Cochrane, CH, Lago Brown 455, (0672) 522361, hotelultimoparaisochile@hotmail.es.
Decorated w/native woods, this hotel features 6 comfortable rooms w/private baths, cable TV, &
central heating.
1A
Hotel Wellman
Cochrane, CH, Las Golondrinas 565, (0672) 522171, hotelwellman@gmail.com.
Hotel ($44.000 / $52.000) w/22 rooms on 2 floors, a spacious living room & dining room. Located 1
block from Cochrane’s Plaza, close to hopping district. Breakfast is included in the rate.
1A
Latitude 47
Cochrane, CH, Lago Brown 564, (09) 88290956, latitud47sur_patagonia@hotmail.com.
This guest house has several upstairs rooms w/single beds, & a recent addition, w/more spacious
options & a separate bathroom, in an adjoining area. Singles & Doubles ($20.000/ $30.000), or per
person ($10.000), without a private bathroom.
1A
Residencial Cero a Cero
Cochrane, CH, Lago Brown 464, (0672) 522158, ceroacero@hotmail.com.
Cero a Cero is a comfortable option w/good beds, plenty of windows, a warm, cozy interior & a mix
of room types w/options for a private bathroom. Singles, Doubles ($15.000 / $22.000), or per person,
without a private bathroom ($9.000).
1A
Residencial El Fogón
Cochrane, CH, San Valentín 650, (09) 76447914 / 82612017.
El Fogón offers lodging ($8.000) in their guest house, adjacent to the restaurant. Includes breakfast.
1A
Residencial La Sureña
Cochrane, CH, Teniente Merino 698, (09) 88294171 / 77646689,
hospedajeycamping@yahoo.cl.
This hostel offers a pleasant atmosphere w/capacity for 6 persons, divided between 3 doubles & 2
singles ($6.000). They provide breakfast for an extra cost ($1.500).
1A
Residencial Lago Esmeralda
Cochrane, CH, San Valentín 141, (0672) / (09) 522621 / 97186805,
hospedajeycamping@yahoo.cl.
Hostel w/capacity for 10 visitors, divided between 9 rooms ($15.000 single, $30.000 double). Rooms
include a mixture of singles, doubles & a matrimonial. They offer breakfast & lunch services in a small
restaurant, & cable TV.
1A
Residencial Horstmeyer
Cochrane, CH, Alfredo Stange 9, (0672) 522263, residencial_h@hotmail.com.
Hostel offering 9 rooms ($12.000), for up to16 guests, divided between singles, doubles & triples, w/a
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shared bathroom. Guests have access to the lounge, TV, hot water & dining area.
1A
Residencial Rubio
Cochrane, CH, Teniente Merino 871, (0672) 522173.
7 comfortable rooms; 1 single & 6 doubles ($15.000 double occupancy or $ 10.000 per passenger).
4 of the rooms have private bathrooms. Parking is available.
1A
Residencial Sur Austral
The Residencial Sur Austral has 17 rooms ($10.000 - $25.000), configured as singles, doubles &
matrimonials, w/options for private & shared bathrooms. They offer cable TV & breakfast, & provide
optional lunch service.
IB
Patagonia Park The Lodge at Chacabuco Valley
Cochrane, CH, Near Visitor Information Center in Valley Chacabuco,
http://www.conservacionpatagonica.org, reservas@vallechacabuco.cl.
If you seek a regal experience during your time in the circuit, arrange a reservation at this beautiful
lodge filled w/hand-crafted woodwork & accents, patterned tiles, an enormous lounge area w/a
gigantic fireplace, & walls of windows overlooking green spaces, often visited by fox & other wildlife.
There are six guest rooms, mostly doubles, w/some bunk beds for families.The lodge plans to operate
using a donations-only payment system; Recommended donation $125.000 /night.
ID
Bungalows - La Posada del Posadas
Hipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas, AR, Av. San Martin, (02963) 490250,
www.delposadas.com.ar, susanalaposada@yahoo.com.ar.
La Posada offers 10 new bungalows, which can accommodate a range of group sizes, set within a park
like setting, w/an incredible view. Each room is spacious & bright, offering great comfort & warmth.
It is an ideal retreat for rest.
ID
Hospedaje Los Pioneros
Hipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas, AR, Sector de Lago Pueyrredón, (02963) 490209.
Rural Hospedaje offering basic accommodations, hot showers & food services for guests.
ID
Hospedaje Tres Lagos
Hipólito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas, AR, Av. San Martin, (02963) 490233.
Basic lodging within a local couple’s home. They offer 2 bedrooms w/queen-size beds & hot showers.
ID
Hostería La Posada del Posadas
Consists of 5 new hotel rooms (in addition to the 10 bungalows offered), available for those looking
for more upscale lodging. The cozy rooms are set within the same building housing the reception
area. Each room is spacious & bright, offering great comfort & warmth.
ID
Río Tarde Casa Patagónica
Hipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas, AR, Calle Las Lengas 450, (02963) 490209,
www.riotarde.com.ar, info@riotarde.com.ar.
Comfortable rooms in an atmosphere of simple luxury. This boutique hotel offers incredible
architecture, great views, healthy food w/local touches, & a wonderful upper floor lounge, where
guests can relax & unwind in the peaceful setting.
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WHERE TO SLEEP – CABAÑAS
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Cabañas Brellenthin
Cochrane, CH, Las Golondrinas Nº 52, (0672) / (09) 522275 / 91392413,
www.turismorutapatagonia.cl, turismobrellenthin@gmail.com.
The complex consists of 3 cabins located on the banks of the Cochrane River, all fully equipped, w/
barbecue grills & a Jacuzzi made of cypress wood. Capacity for 4, 5 or 6 people, w/values of $40.000,
$50.000, $60.000, respectively.
1A
Cabañas Choike Huapi
Cochrane, CH, Arturo Prat N°100, (09) 98885256 / 91388250,
patriciosalinas.h@gmail.com.
3 fully equipped, 2 bedroom cabins, w/satellite TV, & wood-stoves in a peaceful setting, close to
downtown.
1A Cabañas
Don Lino
Cochrane, CH, Road to Lago Cochrane, Km 3, (0672) / (09) 522438 / 81866323.
Cabin located 3 km from Cochrane in a rural environment near Cochrane Lake, equipped for 4
people w/light provided by propane gas, a fishing pier, horseback riding, & preparation of Asados al
Palo, on request.
1A
Cabañas El Bambo
Cochrane, CH, North Entrance to Cochrane, Lot 23, (09) 91391780 / 91391840.
Fully equipped cabañas in a rural setting w/a quincho for Asados & access to the Cochrane River.
1A
Cabaña El Ñirrantal
Cochrane, CH, Bernardo O’Higgins 650, (09) 78782621, terecata_cu@hotmail.com or
nirrantalpatagonia@gmail.com.
Fully equipped cabaña, which sleeps 6, in a relaxing environment, just steps from downtown Cochrane.
1A
Cabañas Hervila
Cochrane, CH, Lot 28, northern entrance to Cochrane, (09) 84041342 / 97872698,
violetavaja@hotmail.com.
2 fully equipped cabañas, w/kitchens, wood-burning stoves, & baths w/hot water. Each accommodates
up to 4 people. Daily Value, $35.000 to $40.000.
1A
Cabañas Konaiken
Cochrane, CH, Carretera Austral, Northern Route, Km. 30.
turismo_konaiken@yahoo.es.
Comfortable cabañas located on the bank of the Baker River, just 6 km south of the town of Puerto
Bertrand.
1A
Cabaña La Sureña
Cochrane, CH, Teniente Merino 698, (09) 88294171 / 77646689,
sandovalcarola@hotmail.com.
Cabaña ($30.000) equipped for 4 people, w/cable TV & indoor parking.
1A
Cabañas María Inés
Cochrane, CH, North Entrance to Cochrane, Km 1.5, (09) 76481405,
joseuribe_inostroza@hotmail.com.
Fully equipped cabañas w/a nice green space area for recreation & a quincho for Asados.
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1A
Cabañas Rio Cochrane
Cochrane, CH, Avenida Bernardo O’Higgins, (0672) / (09) 522622 / 94921787 /
96136762.
Located just south of Cochrane, this resort has 14 well-appointed cabins w/a total of 54 beds,
showers w/hot water, heating, & gas stoves. Each cabaña has capacity for 2 - 6 persons. Rates from
$30.000 to $70.000.
1A
Cabañas Rio Maiten
Cochrane, CH, Río Maitén 331, (0672) 522619 / 522264, rogeri3@hotmail.com.
4 fully equipped cabañas w/cable TV, heating & private parking. Each cabaña has capacity for 5 people.
1A
Cabañas Rogeri
Cochrane, CH, Teniente Merino 385, (0672) 522264, rogeri3@hotmail.com.
4 fully equipped cabaña for 3 - 5 people each, located 1 block from the city center, w/values ranging
from $30.000 to $50.000.
1A
Cabañas Sol y Luna
Cochrane, CH, Road to RN Tamango, Lot N° 1, (09) 81579602 / 65710763,
xmard1storres@hotmail.com.
Nice, new, well equipped, 4 person cabañas ($45.000) w/a sauna & hot tubs.
1A
Cabañas Paola
Cochrane, CH, Lago Brown 150, (0672) 522215.
3 fully-equipped cabins ($25.000, $30.000, $35.000), for 3, 5 & 6 persons, respectively. Private parking
area & fogón for Asados.
1A
Cabaña Sur Austral
Fully equipped cabaña ($45.000) for 6 persons.
ID
Cabañas at Estancia Suyai, Sector Pueyrredón Lake
Hipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas, AR, Southern Sector of the Estancia, close to Lago
Pueyrredón, (02963) / (02974) 490242 / 480225, www.suyaipatagonia.com.ar,
info@suyaipatagonia.com.ar or reservas@suyaipatagonia.com.ar.
The Estancia offers lakeside cabañas for 4 to 6 persons each & a restaurant for up to 20 people in
the sector located near the Oro River Valley & San Lorenzo Plateau, only 6 Km from the border w/
Chile, on a small peninsula of the Pueyrredón Lake. Access via Hipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas.
ID
Cabañas El Tio
Hipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas, AR, Pueyrredón Lake Sector, (02963) 490241,
www.eltiocamping.com.ar, eltioposadas@hotmail.com.
Cabañas equipped for 6 people on the shores of the Pueyrredón lake, surrounded by nature in this
beautiful corner of Patagonia.
WHERE TO SLEEP – CAMPING & SHELTERS
1A
Camping Cochrane
Cochrane, CH, Steffen 451, (0672) / (09), 522377 / 77664752, pquintana13@gmail.com.
Located half a block from the square, w/an extended patio area, friendly atmosphere, & parking. The
camping area has access to bathrooms w/hot showers, grills, & more.
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1A
Camping, CONAF Boat Dock Area
Cochrane, CH, Tamango National Reserve, Boat Docks Sector, (0672) 522164.
Start at the Visitor Reception Office in the Entrance of the Park, where you will need to sign in & pay
a minimal entrance fee. Leaving the Office, continue along the road until you see the signs marking
the entrance for the trails. Follow the south trail leading to the Cochrane River. It heads down to
the river & then turns toward the west, where it merges w/the gravel road coming from Cochrane
& leading to CONAF’s boat dock sector. The camping area is equipped w/toilets, tables & a beautiful
area for resting & having lunch.
1A
Camping El Bambo
Cochrane, CH, North Entrance to Cochrane, Lot 23, (09) 91391780 / 91391840.
Camping area w/a quincho for Asados & access to the Cochrane River.
1A
Camping Horstmeyer
Cochrane, CH, Alfredo Stange 9, (0672) 522263, residencial_h@hotmail.com.
Horstmeyer camping is located in a beautiful natural setting w/access to electricity & water, as well
as the services offered by their hostel. Ask for more information about their fishing trips, meals &
laundry services.
1A
Camping, Las Correntadas Beach Area
Cochrane, CH, Tamango National Reserve, Las Correntadas Sector, (0672) 522164.
The Correntadas Camping Area is located within the Reserve, along the Cochrane River. It is an
excellent place to try your hand at fishing & a beautiful place to relax & enjoy the incredible natural
surroundings. You can spend the night here, tent-camping. Hike in required.
1A
Camping Rio Cochrane
Cochrane, CH, San Sebastian Farm, Just before the Tamango National Reserve, (09)
84872384 / 98164954.
Camping area adjacent to the Tamango National Reserve w/access to the Cochrane River.
IB
Camping Westwinds
Cochrane, CH, Patagonia Park, Near Visitor Information Center in Valley Chacabuco,
www.conservacionpatagonica.org, reservas@vallechacabuco.cl.
This large, grassy campground is located 4Km from the Administrative Area of Patagonia Park in Valley
Chacabuco. The campground has full bathrooms that include hot showers, flushing toilets, & sinks.
Eight cook shelters offer visitors a protected space to eat & relax regardless of weather. Numerous
private tent sites accommodate up to 60 tents. Sites are first-come, first-served; operated on a pay
by donation, basis.
IC
Camping at the Casa de Piedra (Stone House) in Valley Chacabuco
Patagonia Park, Cochrane, CH, 27 Km from the Administration of Patagonia Park in the
Chacabuco Valley, www.conservacionpatagonica.org, reservas@vallechacabuco.cl.
At this site, Patagonia Park is developing the St1 House Campground, which is scheduled to open in
2013. For now, temporary facilities are available w/bathrooms housed in a historic st1 outpost left
over from the park’s days as a sheep estancia. The area is located near the confluence of the Aviles &
Chacabuco Rivers & will serve as the jumping off point for explorations in the Aviles Valley & Jeinimeni
mountains. Sites are first-come, first-served; operated on a pay by donation, basis.
ID
Camping at Estancia Suyai, Sector Pueyrredón Lake
Hipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas, AR, Southern Sector of the Estancia, close to
Pueyrredón Lake. (02963) / (02974) 490242 / 480225, www.suyaipatagonia.com.ar,
The Estancia offers a camping area w/outdoor grills & access to bathroom facilities, & a restaurant for
up to 20 people in the sector located near the Oro River Valley & San Lorenzo Plateau, only 6 km
from the border w/Chile, on a small peninsula of the Pueyrredón Lake. You can access the estancia
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via Hipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas.
ID
Camping at Estancia Suyai, Sector Ghio Lake
Hipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas, AR, Northern Sector, close to Ghio Lake, (02963) /
(02974) 490242 / 480225, www.suyaipatagonia.com.ar,
This sector of the Suyai Estancia is near Lake Ghio & has no formal facilities. However, there is a
roadside area where you can tent camp in rustic conditions.
ID
Camping El Tio
Hipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas, AR, Sector Pueyrredón Lake, (02963) 490241,
Camping El Tio offers a private camping area w/grills & bathrooms, on the shores of the Pueyrredón
Lake, protected from the wind, but surrounded by nature in this beautiful corner of Patagonia!
GASTRONOMY - RESTAURANTS & PUBS
1A
Café Nación Patagonia
Cochrane, CH, Las Golondrinas 198, (09) 85500713 / 76622891,
www.nacionpatagonia.cl, contacto@nacionpatagonia.cl.
Cafeteria w/a welcoming atmosphere, good espresso & coffee, fresh juices, cakes, pies & other sweets.
Café Nación Patagonia offers a variety of handicrafts & a broad knowledge about the history, local
culture, & development of the Cochrane sector.
1A
Café Konaiken
Cochrane, CH, Carretera Austral north of town, Km. 300 (Between Puerto Bertrand &
Cochrane), turismo_konaiken@yahoo.es.
Famous for their exquisite jams & kuchen made from fruits of Patagonia, served along w/a good
espresso or a glass of fresh juice. We also offer soups & sandwiches.
1A
Café Tamango
Cochrane, CH, Esmeralda 464, (09) 91584521, cafetamango@gmail.com.
Modern, open & airy café w/a great atmosphere, outdoor seating area, friendly staff, & tasty menu.
Feature innovative twists on regional flavors, including vegetarian options, salads, sandwiches, crepes,
quiches, homemade ice cream & baked goods ($4.000+/- 09h00-21h00, Mondays - Saturdays).
1A
El Arriero Restaurant
Cochrane, CH, San Valentín 750, (0672) 522137.
Restaurant ($3.500+/-) w/homemade roasts & other dishes, & daily menu specials. Serving breakfast,
lunch & dinner, from 08h00 to 11h30.
1A
El Fogón Restaurant
Cochrane, CH, San Valentín 650, (09) 76447914 / 82612016.
El Fogón (The Hearth) is Cochrane’s original restaurant, offering a daily menu ($4.500) & a la carte.
Specials include red meat, shellfish & fish. It has a full bar. El Fogón is open every day of the week.
Hours: 11h00 to 24h00.
1A
El Ñirrantal Café & Restaurant
Cochrane, CH, Bernardo O’Higgins 650, (09) 78782621, terecata_cu@hotmail.com or
nirrantalpatagonia@gmail.com.
Located 1 block from the Plaza de Arms, Cafe Restaurant Ñirrantal is open every day of the week
from 10h00 to 23h00. Daily menu & a la carte, w/bar.
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1A
Pub & Restaurant El Tehuelche
Cochrane, CH, Doctor Steffen 5998, (09) 79991025 / 93576426, clhi73@hotmail.com.
Pub & restaurant, live music, pleasant atmosphere & great variety of drinks, disco & karaoke.
1A
Restaurant Ada, Cochrane
CH, Teniente Merino 374, (09) 83995889 / 88274613, adascaferestaurant@gmail.com.
Great values & delicious lunches & dinners ($4.500+/-), including seafood & beef options, wine, salads
& desserts. Attentive service in a clean atmosphere.
1A
Restaurant at Patagonia Park
Patagonia Park, Cochrane, CH, Visitor Information Center Area in Chacabuco Valley,
http://www.conservacionpatagonica.org, reservas@vallechacabuco.cl.
A new restaurant is planned to open in time for the 2012-13 season in Valle Chacabuco, within the
private reserve, Patagonia Park. It will be located in the first large st1 building at the entrance of the
Park Administration Area & open for lunch, snacks, tea, & dinner. The menu will feature fresh produce
grown in greenhouses, on the grounds.
ID
Restaurant del Posada
The La Posada Restaurant has a great, lodge-style atmosphere & a complete service including lunch,
snacks, dinners, & banquets. They offer a variety of regional specialties, homemade pastas, & local
vegetables, grown in their greenhouses.
1D
Restaurant at Estancia Suyai
Hipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas, AR, Southern Sector of the Estancia, close to Lago
Pueyrredón. (02963) 490242, www.suyaipatagonia.com.ar,
This sector of the Suyai Estancia is located near the Oro River Valley & San Lorenzo Plateau, only 6 km
from the border w/Chile, on a small peninsula of the Pueyrredón Lake. You can access the estancia
via Hipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas. The Estancia offers a restaurant - lounge for up to 20 people.
GASTRONOMY – SUPERMARKETS
1A
Casa Melero Supermarket & More
Cochrane, CH, Calle Las Golondrinas Nº148, middle of block, western side of Plaza de
Arms.
In this amazing store, you’ll not only find everything you need to assemble your portable Yerba Mate
Kit, you’ll also find a great supermarket, bakery, deli, & 1-stop shop to buy camping gear, canoes, chain
saws, chocolate, fine wines, fishing gear, & almost anything else you could ever want or need!
1A
ECA (Agricultural Commerce Store)
Cochrane, CH, Rio Colonia 85, (0672) 522227.
A small supermarket that offers the opportunity to buy basic supplies such as cold cuts, cheese, bread,
coffee, tea, mate & a limited variety of vegetables & fruits.
ID
La Posada Provisions
This quaint grocery store has a surprising number of goodies for the road, including a variety of deli
meats & cheeses, fruits & vegetables, breads & crackers. Stock up while you’re in town!
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GASTRONOMY – BAKERIES (PANADERIAS)
1A
Lahuen Artisan Panadería
Hipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas, AR, Calle Las Calandrias.
The Lahuen Bakery offers an assortment of artisan breads & facturas.
THINGS TO DO – HIKING & MOUNTAIN SPORTS
1A
Excursions Rio Cochrane
Cochrane, CH, San Sebastian Farm, Just before the Entrance to the Tamango National
Reserve, (09) 84872384 / 98164954.
Guided hiking circuit for watching huemules (hippocamelus bisulcus).
1A
Regional Guide, Oscar Verdugo Cerón
Cochrane, CH, Luís Báez Nº840, (09) 96724812.
Guided hiking excursions, which offer the possibility to observe huemules (hippocamelus bisulcus)
within the Tamango National Reserve.
1A
Mejorenbici
Cochrane, CH, Av. Esmeralda 464, behind Café Tamango, (09) 82094957,
www.mejorenbici.cl, restrepo82@hotmail.com.
Cycle/hike multi-activity tour that lasts a full day ($45.000) & visit the Tamango National Reserve.
Equipment included in the price.
THINGS TO DO – BOAT EXCURSIONS
1A
Escualos Nautical Club (Kayak School)
Cochrane, CH, Francisco Bascur 15.
For the past 12 years, Cochrane’s Kayaking Club “Escualos” has taught kids between the ages of 4 &
18, to kayak on the emerald waters of Cochrane River & the nearby Baker River. During the summer
holidays (January & February), they offer courses for beginners at their base, between 18h00 & 20h00
on Mondays, Wednesdays & Fridays, both for locals & tourists. The Club has the necessary equipment
& instructors to teach beginners, & help advanced kayakers to develop new skills.
1A
Cochrane, CH, San Sebastian Farm, Just before the Entrance to the Tamango National
Reserve, (09) 84872384 / 98164954.
Boating & fishing on Lake Cochrane.
1A
Park Guard & Guide
Cochrane, CH, Boat Docks of the Tamango National Reserve, (0672) 522164.
The Park Guards at the Tamango National Reserve also act as tour guides for the boat excursion
down the Cochrane River from the Dock of the Tamango National Reserve to the Paleta beach, in
Cochrane Lake.
THINGS TO DO – OVERLAND TOURS
ID
Las Loicas Excursions & Transporte
Hipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas, AR, Corner of Las Lengas & Condor Andino, (02963)
Overland tours throughout the province of Santa Cruz, including Route 40, Perito Moreno & Los
Glaciares National Parks, as well as archaeological & traditional Estancia tours.They focus on providing
a personalized service w/small groups of approx. 10 passengers. The accommodations are within
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Inns, Guest houses & Estancias, all of which are very warm & welcoming places, usually maintained
by their owners.
THINGS TO DO – HISTORY & CULTURE
1A
Mini-Museum of Cochrane
Cochrane, CH, San Valentín Nº 555.
This local museum is located next to the Cultural Center. The Museum contains 2 permanent
exhibits. The first relates to the geomorphology of the area, the natural environment, flora & fauna,
resources, economic activities & the evolution of the population. The second focuses on the human
history of the area, w/a dual focus on the indigenous history of the Tehuelche, or Aoniken, preColumbian hunter-gatherers & the history of modern colonization & the founding of the town.
ID
El Tio Quincho
Hipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas, AR, Sector Lago Pueyrredón, (02963) 490241,
El Tio offers a quincho where your group can celebrate during their travels w/the preparation of a
traditional Patagonian cultural event, an Asado al Palo. (They´ll do all the work, for an additional cost).
ID
La Posada Guided Tours
Hipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas, AR, Ave. San Martin , (02963) 490250,
La Posada offers guided hikes to nearby archaeological sites, including visits to the Cerro de los Indios,
Paso Roballos, Columno & Ghío Lakes, & the Oro River Valley, among others.
ID
Las Loicas Transporte
Hipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas, AR, Corner of Las Lengas & Condor Andino, (02963)
La Loicas offers small group overland tours w/personalized service, throughout the province,
including tours focuses on pre-Columbian Archeology & the traditional Estancias.
THINGS TO DO – FLORA & FAUNA
1A
Cochrane, CH, San Sebastian Farm, Just before the Tamango National Reserve, (09),
84872384 / 98164954.
Guided circuit for watching huemules (hippocamelus bisulcus).
1A
Regional Guide, Oscar Verdugo Cerón
Cochrane, CH, Luís Báez Nº840, (09) 96724812.
Guided hiking excursions, which offer the possibility to observe huemules (hippocamelus bisulcus)
within the Tamango National Reserve.
ID
Las Loicas Excursions, Hipolito Yrigoyen
Hipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas AR, Corner of Las Lengas & Cóndor Andino, (02963)
Organize trips & tours according to the characteristics, interests & expectations of each group.
Activities include bird watching.
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THINGS TO DO – FISHING
1A
Cochrane, CH, San Sebastian Farm, Just before the Tamango National Reserve, (09),
84872384 / 98164954.
Boating & fishing on Cochrane River & Lake.
1A
Regional Guide
Oscar Verdugo Cerón, Cochrane, CH, Luís Báez Nº840, (09) 96724812.
Guided fly-fishing within the waters of the Tamango National Reserve.
THINGS TO DO – BIKING
1A
Mejorenbici
Cochrane, CH, Av. Esmeralda 464, behind Café Tamango, (09)
82094957, www.mejorenbici.cl, restrepo82@hotmail.com.
Bike rental service, guided bike tours, information for self-guided tours, technical revisions & bike
repairs, in the city of Cochrane & Capitan Prat Province. Their fleet includes mountain bikes
(aluminum frames, front suspension, 24 speeds, & disc brakes), children’s bicycles, accessories for
long trips (saddlebags, grills, etc), carrying racks for vehicles, & baby seats. Leases include bike, helmet,
gloves, pump. There are 3 programs: 1) Bike Rental (1 Hour $3.000, Half Day $10.000, Full day
$15.000). 2) Guided Tours (Ranging from a historical or city tour (1½ hours - $10.000) to a full
day cycle/hike multi-activity tour ($45.000). 3) Self-Guided Tours: They provide maps w/fun routes
detailed so that clients can do their own rides. You can also consult about multi-day bike trips.
ID
Las Loicas Excursions
Hipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas, AR, Corner of Las Lengas & Cóndor Andino, (02963)
Las Loicas organizes trips & tours according to the characteristics, interests & expectations of each
group. Activities include mountain biking.
NEW FINDS
111
Evelyn Pfeiffer
CHAPTER 3
FOLLOW THE SUN
THROUGH AUSTRAL STEPPE
STAGE 2
LIST OF ARTICLES
CHAPTER 3: STAGE 2 - Follow the Sun through the Austral Steppe.
114
115
Follow the Sun through Austral Steppe.
122
The roads of Patagonia are much more than JUST an ingredient in the adventure!
125
Discover the earliest human societies in South America.
127
Searching for solitude and pristine wilderness? This detour’s for you.
128
Reach the summit of Cerro Leon in Perito Moreno National Park.
129
Recharge in the heart of the Austral Steppe.
132
Treat yourself to a bit of high cuisine in the middle of the Austral Steppe.
133
Enjoy a Tabla at the Piedra Clavada.
134
Welcome to El Chaltén, the Trekking Capital of Argentina.
137
Craving a yummy breakfast and a great Java fix?
138
Trekking in the northern zone of Los Glaciares National Park.
139
Chorrillo del Salto Waterfall Hike.
140
Hike to Capri Lagoon, Poincenot Camping and the Blanco River.
141
Hike to De los Tres Lagoon (Extension of the Trek to Capri Lagoon).
142
Day Hike to the Piedras Blancas Glacier Overlook.
143
Hike to the Cerro Torre Lagoon and Overlook.
144
Seeking solitude and pure nature? Head to Los Huemules.
145
Explore Viedma Lake & Glacier.
146
Indulge in the Grand Empanada Tour.
148
Prepare your own Empanadas with a Patagonian style.
CHAPTER 3: Stage 2 - Follow the Sun through the Austral Steppe.
Follow the Sun through Austral Steppe.
The second Stage of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit (603 Km),
explores the Austral Steppe of Patagonia, traveling through the Santa
Cruz Province of Argentina, from Bajo Caracoles to El Chaltén.
The second Stage of the Undiscovered
Patagonia Circuit is set within the Santa
Cruz Province of Argentina, providing
travelers with the opportunity to explore
the Austral Steppe of Patagonia. This Stage
is divided into five Sections which, can
be traveled at the pace you desire. This
article describes the route and each of the
five Sections of this Stage. Due to the
differences in terrain and road conditions,
you will notice that the Sections of Stage
2 are comprised of many more kilometers.
Until you reach El Chaltén, the terrain of
Stage 2 is relatively flat and you will have
tailwinds; which, if your are biking, enable
you to cover a much greater distance each
day. Many riders choose to porter their
bikes through some of the Sections of this
Stage, preferring to maximize time in the
natural settings and towns, over long hours
on isolated roads. For motorized vehicles, it
is possible to travel through several Sections
in a single day, in accordance with your plans
and preferences.
115
Section 2A: Bajo Caracoles - Crossing RN 40,
RP35, RP37, Las Horquetas Sector (101 Km).
Depart Bajo Caracoles with ample gas,
food, and water to cover you for the next
several hundred kilometers of your trip. We
suggest bringing along the supplies you’ll
need for picnic stops and your Yerba Mate
kit for sharing along the way. You’ll also want
plenty of good music and your camera handy;
you never know what kind of interesting,
quirky, or rare sights you’ll encounter as
you travel down National Route 40. Don’t
be surprised to see packs of motorcyclists
waving flags from far off countries, or
giant overland vehicles nomading their
ways through the entire South America
continent. Whenever the chance presents
itself, do some story swapping with these
people. Route 40 attracts many adventure
travelers from far off lands! On the flip side,
despite the described popularity of Route
40, it is also possible to drive all day and
116
see virtually no people! We look forward
to your road stories, either way. You’ll be
traveling this Section on pavement; enjoy
it while you can! Section 2A ends at the
crossroads of Route 40, 35, and 37, which is
known as Las Horquetas sector. Here, you’ll
need to decide if you would like to make
the 94 Km detour (each way) to Perito
Moreno National Park. Nestled way off the
beaten path, along the border with Chile,
this park receives little visitation, leaving its
lands in pristine condition. Nevertheless, it
is fully staffed and offers a range of camping,
trail, and lodging options.
Should you decide not to detour toward
the park, other options include camping
along the roadside or pushing on to the end
of Section 2B, where you will encounter
Gobernador Gregores.
Section 2B: Crossing RN 40, RP35, RP37, Las
Horquetas Sector - Gobernador Gregores
(117 Km).
Follow National Route 40 for another 55 Km before detouring onto
Provincial Route 25 to finish the 117 Km of this Section at the
Intersection of Provincial Route 25 and Provincial Route 27, in one
of the larger towns amongst the Circuit, Gobernador Gregores.
If you look at a map of the Santa Cruz
Region, you’ll note that the most direct
route for reaching El Chaltén is to continue
following Route 40; however, our Circuit
takes a longer series of roads. Here’s why:
as of July, 2012, there were more than 45
construction and improvement projects
running simultaneously in the 5,000+ Km
that comprise Route 40. Thankfully, only
two of these projects have potential affects
for the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit; one
which extends 45 Km, in the sector between
Perito Moreno and Bajo Caracoles and the
other, for 55 Km, between Las Horquetas
and the Access Bridge over Rio Chico.
Construction in these two areas involves rerouting of the road, building culverts, adding
and changing signage, etc. It is important to
note that a road under construction is less
stable, more susceptible to be compromised
by severe weather conditions, subject to
detours and delays, and less likely to have
adequate signage. Driving through these
sectors requires special knowledge and skills
on the part of the driver.
It is for these reasons that our circuit is
routed to avoid these areas of Route
40. We suggest that until these works
are completed, you plan your route in
accordance with the defined Sections, which
detour around the construction area, along
Provincial Route 25 to join with Provincial
Route 27 and later, National Route 288. The
route is longer; but, it provides a better road
117
Evelyn Pfeiffer
and the opportunity to take a break halfway
to enjoy the small city of Gobernador
Gregores. If you choose to go directly to
El Chaltén via Route 40, be prepared for
extreme conditions, floods, loose gravel, and
a lack of services and signage, until the road
construction is completed.
Section 2B ends in Governor Gregores,
the largest city in the Circuit, with 7,000
inhabitants and the opportunity for
Evelyn Pfeiffer
118
rest and recreation amongst charming
surroundings. There are opportunities
nearby for recreational fishing, sightseeing
and excursions in the Steppe. Within the
city, there are several small museums and
a great park. We suggest taking a break in
Gobernador Gregores. Enjoy the local sites,
recharge your batteries, and stock up on
fresh fruits, veggies, cheeses and cold cuts,
to accompany you along the next Sections
of the Circuit.
Evelyn Pfeiffer
Section 2C: Gobernador Gregores - Crossing
RP27, RN288 (115 Km).
Section 2C offers plenty of opportunities to
spot Darwin’s rhea (pterocnemia pennata),
commonly called ñandú. This long legged
bird cannot fly, but it can run! It can reach
speeds of up to 60 Km/h to keep just out
of reach of predators (and cars!). These
birds run in packs feeding on seeds, fruits,
plants, small insects, and even small pebbles!
Section 2C involves long, straightaways with
little change in elevation; perfect conditions
for the strong Patagonian crosswinds to
gain force. Stay alert as you head south.
Can you imagine gauchos crossing these
very same plains years ago, before roads,
with 1,000s of sheep? The Section ends
at the crossing of Provincial Route 27 and
National Route 288, where you will find
options for roadside camping and a river
nearby. Those who decide to end the day
here are asked to please respect the area
by not making a campfire; use a camp stove
instead, and clean up any trash. Bikers, this
Section might be the place to invest in a
transport service. You can contract a driver
in Gobernador Gregores to porter you and
your gear, providing the means to continue
to Tres Lagos or El Chaltén the same day.
Combining multiple Sections in one day
is very feasible, if you are traveling in a
motorized vehicle.
119
Section 2D: Crossing RP27, RN288 - Tres Lagos
(148 Km).
During this Section of the Circuit, you will
be traveling good quality gravel roads over
relatively flat terrain, heading due west. You
are likely to see herds of wild horses, guanaco
(lama guanicoe) and ñandú (pterocnemia
pennata) throughout your travels, as well
as the signposts for a number of surviving
Estancias. The 148 Km go fast and before
long, you’ll arrive in the tiny town of Tres
Lagos, which offers a few lodging options,
restaurants, shops and a full-service gas
station; your last before El Chaltén. There is
a nice municipal camping area in town and
the El Condor Estancia, is located nearby, at
the crossroads of Routes 40 and 31. Here,
you will find hot showers and comfortable
beds for a low price.The Estancia also offers
meals and horseback rides, providing the
opportunity to ride through the beautiful
Austral Steppe of Patagonia in gaucho style!
NOTES
Evelyn Pfeiffer
120
Section 2E: Tres Lagos - El Chaltén (122 Km).
The final Section of Stage 2 involves a
beautiful drive or ride, on paved segments
of National Route 40. Although bikers will
face a headwind, the magnificent sight of
Mt.. Fitz Roy, which comes into view after
about 60 Km, provides the motivation
needed to push on! The shoreline of Lake
Viedma will accompany you to the left, for
50 Km of your approach, giving you the time
and inspiration to imagine why so many
climbers are drawn to this giant, granite
spike shooting out of the flat landscape in
front of you!
The small town of El Chaltén is your final
destination for this Section and Stage 2
of the Circuit. El Chaltén is located inside
the Los Glaciares National Park, at the foot
of some of the most famous peaks in the
world. The Park’s Visitor Center is located
a few kilometers outside the entrance to
the town. The area surrounding El Chaltén
is known as the Hiker’s Capital of Argentina,
and has a seemingly endless number of trails.
There is also some interesting history
associated with this sector of Patagonia. On
a day-off from hiking, we suggest visiting La
Quinta Estancia to learn more from Patricia
Halvorsen, daughter of Otto Halvorsen
and granddaughter of one of the original
pioneers in the area, Halvor Halvorsen.
Rodrigo Merino
Patricia is a historian, renowned for her
knowledge of Argentine Patagonia. An avid
story-teller, she loves sharing legends and
facts about the area and provides tours of
her family’s beautiful Estancia which offers
lodging, a restaurant, and lots of activities.
The Halvorsen family are the only with
pioneer heritage and an uninterrupted
residency in the area for the past century.
121
The roads of Patagonia are
much more than JUST an
ingredient in the adventure!
The Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit takes you along two world famous National
Routes which afford access to the amazing natural areas of this part of the world.
Upkeep of these engineering wonders, within the climate and nature of Patagonia,
requires constant improvement and maintenance, as you will see for yourself.
In Chile, you will encounter
Route 7, known worldwide as
the Carretera Austral; in English,
the Southern Highway. The road
begins in Puerto Montt, in the Region of
Los Lagos and ends 1,240 Km further
south, in Villa O'Higgins, in the Region of
Aysén. Construction began in 1976, under
the direction of the military regime. It was
one of the most expensive and ambitious
projects of the twentieth century for the
country. Most of the work took place
during the 1980s and 1990s, by a mix of
civilians and members of the Chilean Army,
connecting Patagonia with the rest of the
country via national routes, after a long
history of isolation.
In 2007, the Ministry of Public Works
announced upgrades of the road, paving 330
Km, north of the Undiscovered Patagonia
Circuit, between Chaitén and Coyhaique.
Construction was also completed for the
overland route between Hornopirén
and Caleta Gonzalo, crossing the Pumalín
Park. Yet, the road is not complete; several
sections must be traversed by ferry, including
the crossing of the Mitchell Fiord, in Stage
4 of the Circuit.
In the future, the entire Carretera will be
paved; however, today, much of the route
is gravel, especially in the southern sectors,
where you will be traveling.The complicated
geography and weather make realization of
these goals an enormous challenge and
contribute to the reality that the Carretera
Austral will always be in constant repair.
As you travel, be prepared for changing
conditions, detours, and waits.
Argentina’s National Route 40,
created in 1935, originates in Cabo Virgenes,
Santa Cruz, and travels more than 5,000
Cristian Solis
122
Km, before reaching La Quiaca, in the Jujuy
Province. The road provides incredible
adventure; a few of its features include:
• Climbing from sea level to almost 5,000
meters,
• Crossing 236 bridges while passing
18 major rivers and lakes, including 13
large salt lakes,
• The chance to visit 20 National Parks
and Reserves, and
• The crossing of 27 mountain passes!
Perhaps the most amazing aspect of
National Route 40 is the opportunity to
travel in the comfort of your automobile,
motorcycle or bicycle, immersed in natural
landscapes with no human distractions;
many days you may not even come across
another vehicle!
Similar to the Carretera Austral in Chile,
Route 40 is not yet entirely paved. In fact,
Route 40 had very little pavement until it
received a boost, in 2004. After receiving
recognition as an outstanding national
tourism product, funds were allocated to
improve the route of the road, its signage,
and its conditions. By 2006, 48% of the route
was paved; owing in large part to the projects
implemented in the Santa Cruz Province.
Routing was changed in some sections to
focus the course through paved alternate
roads that allowed visitors better views
of the Andes. Today, the Neuquén and Rio
Black Provinces are 100% paved, in contrast
to the Salta and Jujuy Provinces, which offer
the most "rustic" road conditions. In Santa
Cruz, where the Undiscovered Patagonia
circuit is concentrated, you'll encounter
a mix of road conditions, allowing you to
experience a bit of everything!
As of July 2012, there were more than 45
road improvement projects taking place
simultaneously along the 5,000+ Km of
Route 40. Two of these projects have the
potential to effect your travels. The first
project is a stretch of 40 Km, between
Perito Moreno and Bajo Caracoles, which
provides access to the UNESCO World
Heritage Site, The Cueva de las Manos
(Cave of the Hands). The second stretch
runs 55 Km, from the Las Horquetas Sector,
Cody Stekley
within Section 2A of the Circuit and the
bridge over the Chico River. Both projects
involve re-routing of the road, installation
of new culverts and signage, and the
accompanying delays and discomforts that
are hard to avoid.
Without a doubt, road work
in Patagonia adds additional
elements of adventure and risk
to your trip. A road under construction
is less stable, more susceptible to weather
conditions, more apt to take detours or have
intermittent closures, has no permanent
signage and thus; presents conditions that
require special knowledge and skills on the
part of the driver.
We recommend that you consider using a
professional driver for your trip, who has
experience driving within the context and
conditions of Patagonia. These professionals
are well prepared to face the challenges
and problems that often arise. Also, having
someone else do the driving allows you to
relax, unwind, and immerse yourself in the
incredible scenery.
Until the completion of the projects we
have mentioned for Route 40 in the Santa
Cruz Province, you should plan your route
according to the defined Sections, which
123
include a detour from the most direct
route, along Provincial Routes 25 and 27,
and National Route 288. While this option
travels more kilometers, it will take you
less time; it is much more relaxed with less
risk. Moreover, it provides you with the
opportunity to visit Governor Gregores,
an interesting town with hotels and shops,
historical routes, hiking, and a unique local
industry; tulip farming! Imagine fields of
brightly colored tulips as a colorful surprise,
amongst the yellows and golds of the
Patagonian Pampa.
If you decide to go directly to El Chaltén
on Route 40, be prepared for extreme
conditions, flooding, loose debris, lack of
services and signage.
Consider these suggestions:
• Check that your vehicle is equipped
with the following obligatory
equipment: a functional jack, a lug nut
wrench or wheel nut wrench, a spare
wheel, and a fire extinguisher.
• Plan your travel, considering the
distances between places of interest.
• Carry extra food and fuel.
• Before leaving, ask about route
problems at local Police Posts.
• If you are carrying equipment or gear
outside your vehicle, make sure that is
properly covered, tied and secured.
• On gravel roads, do not over-inflate
your tires (25 lbs recommended).
• Consider carrying an extra drum of
back-up fuel, in accordance with local
laws and regulations.
• Maintain a speed below 80 Km / hour
in straightaways and 40 Km / hour in
curves, as a general rule.
• Drive defensively and obey road
signage, resting every couple of hours,
especially in graveled sections of the
Circuit.
• If you stop, pull your vehicle off the
road in a place where it is visible from
both directions and make sure to
engage the emergency brake.
• Use a GPS and carry maps.
• Pack the kits we describe in the
Self-sufficient Travel article of the
Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit.
NOTES
Evelyn Pfeiffer
124
Discover the earliest human
societies in South America.
Visit the Tehuelche petroglyphs at the Cueva de las Manos (Cave of the
Hands) World Heritage Site, in the Pinturas River Canyon. The site contains an
impressive collection of cave art, drawn between 13,000 and 9,500 years ago.
• Activity Type: Guided Tour
• Sector: Río Pinturas Canyon
• Starting Point: Parking Lot, Pinturas
River Canyon
• Ending Point: Parking Lot of
UNESCO Site, Pinturas River Canyon
• Considerations: To access the
site, travel northeast (4x4 vehicle
suggested), on Provincial Route 37,
from Bajo Caracoles, to the parking lot
for the Cueva de las Mano Site
• Distance: The Cueva de las Manos
site tour involves 1 Km of easy walking.
• Duration: The tour lasts
approximately one hour.
• Seasonality: The Site is open year
round however, guides work during the
tourism season, November - April.
• Difficulty: This tour is apt for all.
The Route: This remarkable Canyon
can be accessed from two different
locations; Ruta 37 from Bajo Caracoles or
on dirt paths from the adjoining Estancia
“Cueva de los Manos”. The first option
involves traveling northeast (4x4 vehicle
suggested), on Provincial Route 37, from
Bajo Caracoles, to the parking lot for the
Cueva de las Manos (Cave of the Hands), to
begin the guided tour. The second option is
to travel north on National Route 40 from
Bajo Caracoles to the Estancia, Cueva de las
Manos, where you can contract a guide to
provide a 4x4 tour 18 Km across the Steppe
and then hike 2.5 Km through the Canyon
to the start of the tour. The guide will meet
you at the end to return to the Estancia,
where you have the option to incorporate
a night’s stay.
The UNESCO description for this
World Heritage Site reports:
Evelyn Pfeiffer
“The artistic sequence, which includes three
main stylistic groups, began as early as
the 10th millennium BP [Before Present].
The sequence is a long one: archaeological
investigations have shown that the site was
last inhabited around AD 700 by the possible
ancestors of the first Tehuelche people of
Patagonia.
The Cueva is considered by the international
scientific community to be one of the most
important sites of the earliest hunter-gatherer
groups in South America. The paintings on
the rock shelters and caves are located in an
outstanding landscape, with the river running
through a deep canyon. The hunting scenes
depict animals and human figures interacting
in a dynamic and naturalistic manner. Different
hunting strategies are shown, with animals
being surrounded, trapped in ambushes, or
attacked by hunters using their throwing
125
weapons, round stones known as bolas. Some
scenes show individual hunters and others
groups of ten or more men.
The entrance to the Cueva is screened by
a rock wall covered by many hand stencils.
Within the rock shelter itself there are five
concentrations of rock art, later figures and
motifs often superimposed upon those from
earlier periods. The paintings were executed
with natural mineral pigments - iron oxides
(red and purple), kaolin (white), natrojarosite
(yellow), manganese oxide (black) - ground
and mixed with some form of binder.
Travelers have been visiting the Cueva de
los Manos since the mid-19th century and
recording their impressions of the paintings.
They were first mentioned in the scientific
literature during the 20th century, but it was
not until the 1960s that they became the
subject of serious study.
The work of Carlos J. Gradin and his coworkers
established the importance of the Cueva
de los Manos as a prehistoric rock-art site
of international scientific importance. The
favorable conditions (very low humidity, no
water infiltration, stable rock strata) at the
rock shelter have ensured that the state of
conservation of all but the most exposed
paintings is excellent.”
Patrick McGarry
NOTES
(Source: UNESCO/CLT/WHC, www.whc.unesco.org/en/list/936/).
Trace Gale
126
Searching for solitude and pristine
wilderness? This detour’s for you.
The wilderness of Perito Moreno National Park is one day’s drive from
the Las Horquetas Sector at the intersection of Routes 40, 37, and 35.
The detour rewards you with beautiful landscapes, forests, lakes, glaciers
and incredible views of Mt.. San Lorenzo. It’s well worth taking!
Patrick McGarry
• Activity Type: Self guided backroad exploration
• Sector: Section 2A ends at the Las
Horquetas Sector; the crossroads of
Routes 40, 35, and 37. Here, you’ll make
the 94 Km detour (each way) to Perito
Moreno National Park.
• Starting Point: Las Horquetas
• Ending Point: Las Horquetas
• Considerations: The Park has an
entrance fee which must be paid in
Argentinean pesos.
• Distance: 200 Km, variable.
• Duration: 2 days or longer.
• Seasonality: October - March
• Difficulty: Apt for cyclists and 4x4s.
brimming with local fauna and flora,
characteristic of the Patagonian Steppe
ecosystem. Once in the Park, visit the
Information Center to pay your entrance
fee and get information on the numerous
trails, free camping areas, and archaeological
sites. The Estancia La Oriental, located
inside the Park, offers additional options
for camping with hot showers, a hostel and
restaurant. The Estancia caters to groups
and has a two-night minimum stay.
NOTES
The Route: Perito Moreno National
Park protects more than 115,000 hectares
of Patagonian Steppe, sub-Antarctic forest,
glacial lakes and rivers, and high Andean
plateau. During the 100 Km drive, you’ll
be surrounded by desert-like landscapes,
127
Reach the summit of Cerro Leon
in Perito Moreno National Park.
If you´re searching for solitude, wilderness, fauna, and pristine nature, the Cerro
Leon trail hike is your answer. This 9.5 Km hike leads to a windy, but generally,
sun-covered summit, yielding views of the surrounding mountains and vividly
colored lakes spreading out in an array of yellows, greens, turquoise and blues.
• Sector: Perito Moreno National Park
• Starting Point: Trail head located in
the El Rincón free Camping Area.
• Ending Point: El Rincón Camping
• Considerations: The trail is very
well marked. Watch for guanacos (lama
guanicoe) running wild on the flats,
often right in front of you on the trail.
The marked summit has high winds.
Wear good hiking shoes that are well
broken in, to avoid blisters. Pack more
than enough water & snacks.
• Distance: 9½ Km round trip
• Duration: ½ day, (3-4 hours),
depending on pace & time at summit.
• Seasonality: October - March
• Difficulty: Significant portions of the
trail have steep elevation climbs with
no switchbacks.
The Route: The Cerro Leon Hike can
be accessed approximately 12 Km from
the main Visitor Information Center, in the
sector known as El Rincón. The hike begins
by crossing the field leading to the foot of
Cerro Leon. It’s common to pass herds
of guanaco (lama guanicoe) so have your
cameras ready! Keep a look out for Andean
condor (vultur gryphus) as well. You will pass
several gathering places on your ascent!
The trail begins a steep climb to the Cerro
Leon ridge line. Reaching this ridge line,
you’ll head to the right and pass through a
brief forested area before leaving the tree
line and hiking on the rocky terrain. Here,
there are small wooden planks marking
the trail. Be prepared for high winds as you
approach the summit. Inexperienced hikers
are advised to slow down and take care
with every step.
The trail is not extremely steep; however,
use caution, especially if hiking with children.
If the wind puts you outside of your comfort
zone, descend. Your judgment is your best
guide. A large rock cairn and a sign mark the
summit; which is the perfect spot for a rest
break. The windy peak provides incredible
views, filled with the breathtaking colors of
the surrounding lakes and mountains!
After the hike, we suggest spending the
night at the El Rincón Free Camping Area,
at the foot of Cerro Leon. The site includes
a bathroom and stone shelters where you
can pitch your tent and get out of the wind.
There is a small Museum with information
on the history of the area. Be advised that
campfires are illegal; cooking is only allowed
on camp stoves!
Patrick McGarry
128
Recharge in the heart of
the Austral Steppe.
Gobernador Gregores is the largest town in the Undiscovered
Patagonia Circuit, with 7,000 inhabitants. This charming oasis
provides ample opportunities for great recreational fishing,
sightseeing, and excursions in the Austral Steppe of Patagonia.
Evelyn Pfeiffer
Gobernador Gregores was originally
named Cañadón León (Lion Canyon), a
name chosen by residents for the town's
proximity to a canyon where many puma
lived. By 1958, the town was modernizing
and locals were ready for a new name. So,
at their request, Gobernador Gregores
became the permanent name, in honor
of Lieutenant-Commander Juan Manuel
Gregores, governor of the Province.
Gobernador Gregores is a great stop along
the Undiscovered Patagonia route, providing
a charming setting for rest and recreation.
The city has supermarkets, restaurants,
options for shopping, and a variety of
lodging. You can choose between hotels
and hostels, Estancia stays, cabañas, and
camping areas. In the city, you will encounter
important logistical and assistance services,
a Tourist Information Center, a great city
park, museums, churches, and much more.
In town, we recommend visiting:
The Municipal Park, which offers great
places for relaxing, enjoying local life, and
catching some sun. There is also a nice
Municipal Camping Area.
José Kuney Posne's home, the Herreria and
the Old Smithy: In March of 1922, Austrian,
José Kuney Posne built the first house
in what would later become the town of
Gobernador Gregores. It was a wooden
structure, covered with the sheet metal
re purposed from 20 liter gas cans. This
site presents a great example of pioneer
ingenuity. You’ll find it at the intersection of
the streets, Alberdi and 9 de Julio.
The Old Tractor: At the intersection of
Av. San Martin and O'Higgins, rests an old
tractor that was imported to Patagonia in
1917. Of British origin, the tractor was used
by Thomas Hospitaliche, a pioneer who
129
storytelling, antique collections and a mini
botanical garden.
Facón Grande Center of Traditional
Dressage: Established in 1996, this center is
home to various heritage festivals, folklore
events, and dressage competitions each year.
La Noria: This was the first irrigation system
used by small farms in the area. It is located
on the left bank of the Chico River. In
1992, this system was declared an Historic
Landmark.
The Surrounding Area:
Evelyn Pfeiffer
arrived in the area in 1890, to move loaded
carts, wool bales and farm equipment.
The Municipal Exposition Center: Rotating
shows and displays are offered in this small
Museum, located in the House of Culture,
between Ruperto Barrenechea and Av. San
Martin.
The Provincial Agricultural School
Museum is a free Museum, managed by the
students of the school.You can enjoy guided
tours of their collections of old photos, rural
Sector Ugly (Fea) Island: Despite its
name, this island is lush, green, and fertile,
surrounded by the waters of the Chico
River, just 1 Km from town. It is the heart of
local agriculture. You can visit the farms and
purchase fresh foods produced in the zone,
including garlic, vegetables, strawberries,
cherries, and beautiful tulips, a local specialty.
The sheep’s milk cheeses are exquisite!
Tour the Estancias outlying Gobernador
Gregores: Between October and March
you can visit the various Estancias in the
area, which offer a range of fun activities
including hiking, horseback riding, and
recreational fishing. Sure bets include:
• Explore History: The Granaderos
Estancia, founded in 1916, offers a wellresearched heritage tour. You can access
from Provincial Route 12.
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130
• World Renowned Bird watching: The
Angostura Estancia, located in Santa
Cruz's central plateau, in the valley of
the Chico River is surrounded by Tulip
groves and famous for its bird watching.
You’ll find it 55 Km from Gobernador
Gregores, on National Route 40.
• Fly-fishing Adventures: Estancia
Laguna Verde offers fishermen the
chance to experience wild Patagonia
at its best. It’s surrounded by beautiful
untouched landscapes and unparalleled
flora and fauna. Here, you’ll have the
opportunity to battle against huge and
strong fish during the day and return to
the comfort of an exclusive lodge, each
evening.
Visit beautiful Lake Cardiel: Located 69 Km
from Gobernador Gregores via Route 29, at
the junction with Route 40. Turquoise water
and great fishing make this a recreational
paradise.
Evelyn Pfeiffer
NOTES
Guided Heritage Tour: Rebellious & Tragic
Patagonia – Following the Strikers’ Path.
This tour visits sites central to the Rural
Worker Strike of 1921, which culminated
in tragedy. The important events proved
pivotal for human rights of Patagonian
workers in Argentina. The tour takes you
behind the scenes of the tragedy and
includes interpretation by local historians.
Schedules are coordinated through
the Municipal Museum or the Tourist
Information Office.
Visit Cerro La Ventana: This 460 m Cerro
of volcanic origin, is close to Gobernador
Gregores, along Provincial Highway 27. It
offers the opportunity for a ½ day of hiking,
where you can see native flora and fauna to
the Patagonian Steppe. The best views (of
course) are from the top of the hill, where
you can set your imagination free. Picture
what it must have been like, standing in this
same spot, in the time of the Tehuelche
or of explorers like George Chaworth
Musters, who has been deemed the “Marco
Polo” of Patagonia.
131
Treat yourself to a bit of high cuisine
in the middle of the Austral Steppe.
Traveling along the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit, you’ll
find yourself in a part of the world undiscovered by fastfood chains. Here’s a much better slow-food option!
Here’s the secret for preparing a
delicious gourmet snack anytime,
anywhere!
We promise that your
traveling partners will be pleased and
amazed when you serve this great snack
during your travels in the Undiscovered
Patagonia Circuit.
Traveling through Undiscovered Patagonia
includes long days on the road. Not too long
ago, these days would have been spent on
horseback, but your trip is likely to include
wheels of some sort. In the days of gauchos
and horse travel, meals were packed into
saddle bags and eaten under a tree, beside a
river, or maybe, at a remote puesto.
Today, simple, on-the-go eating
within the natural landscapes of
Patagonia is maintained, in the
tradition of an Argentine picoteo,
or more commonly, the Tabla.
Basically, a Tabla is the Argentine version of
a picnic. Throughout the small towns and
outposts of Patagonia, you can find small
stores that have basic supplies. In Argentina,
the concept of basic supplies includes a rich
array of fiambres (cold cuts), cheeses, fresh
baked breads, crackers, jams, jellies, olives,
pickles and some sorts of fresh fruits and
vegetables.
In Argentina, the popular form of serving
Tablas involves the same round wooden
cutting boards used for serving Asado.
Incidentally, these make great souvenirs
to take home. They come in a variety of
sizes and can be found in almost any small
town. You can also find great artisan knives
in Argentina, ranging from simple sets for
eating Asados, to elaborate bone-handled
versions, popular with the gauchos.
Once you’ve elaborated your Tabla, the
idea is to share with your entire group,
enjoying the simple food family-style. Many
use the ingredients to make their own
sandwiches but, there are no rules! Tablas
are a great answer for special preferences
within the group; vegetarians and glutenintolerant travelers can tailor their Tablas
to their individual needs. And don’t forget
to include a bottle of wine or some artisan
beer. Both Chile and Argentina offer some
great varietal wines and home-brews, which
perfectly complement Tabla-style eating!
Sorry drivers, you’d better stick to a warm
cup of coffee or yerba mate with your snack.
Here’s how it works; take a few minutes to
stop at small markets you encounter. Relax,
enjoy the break and treat the visit as a sort
of culinary treasure hunt. Add a few items
to your Tabla Supply Cooler as you go. Then,
when you’re ready for a great snack, take a
break from your travels, open your treasure
chest, and whip up an amazing Tabla.
You’ll need a wooden cutting board, a
knife, and your creative culinary energy.
132
Cristian Solis
The Piedra Clavada (Hammered Stone) is a great place to take a break
and enjoy a picnic with an Argentine Tabla. Here, amidst open skies and
sweeping landscapes, take a few moments to “slow down” and appreciate
the cultural and natural heritage of this corner of the Steppe.
La Piedra Clavada Hotel dates
back to the 1930s, when the
Suarez family, originally from
Spain, built the installations
from local stone using traditional
hammer and chisel techniques
that they brought from their
homeland. In back of the hotel, you can
still see the ruins of their original homestead,
built with these same local stones. This
rural hotel is typical of those built along The
Wool Route. These refuges provided much
needed breaks for travelers and important
meeting places for the rural inhabitants
spread across the Estancias of the Austral
Steppe. This hotel reached its heyday in
the 1950s and 1960s, when the family
added a second installation, doubling the
capacity of their offer. In the 1970s, sheep
farming declined due to lower wool prices,
overgrazing, and resulting desertification of
the fields.
Today, as you will surely note, the
countryside in this Sector of the Circuit is
especially isolated; ironic, considering that
road conditions have greatly improved.
The combination of being able to travel
greater distances in a single day, and limited
economic options, makes the future of this
piece of Patagonian Heritage uncertain.
At the time of this edition, the hotel is in
process of restoration and “for sale”.
The Piedra Clavada is the
namesake for the Hotel and
Farms. It is a large vertical rock that seems
to be hammered into the ground, and is
an iconic Menhir (or standing stone) of
Patagonia. Its discovery dates back to 1786,
when Antonio Viedma explored the coast
José Ignacio Cuitiño
of Patagonia. He was on a mission for the
Viceroy of Spain, with the objective of and
establishing new settlements. Viedma set
out from San Julián, Argentina, to explore
the course of the Santa Cruz River.
In error, he followed the course of another
river, which the Tehuelche referred to as the
Chalía River. When the explorer reached
this sector, he spotted the Stone, recording
its discovery in his journals. In this same
exploration, he reached the sector which is
now El Chaltén and the shores of the lake,
which today, bears his name.
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Welcome to El Chaltén, the
Trekking Capital of Argentina.
There’s no doubt that the Trekking Capital of Argentina offers
incredible nature, but there is much more awaiting visitors. Get ready
to discover historical secrets, gourmet flavors and recipes, options
to relax and pamper yourself, and lots of great shopping!
El Chaltén is a small village situated at
the foot of impressive Mount Fitz Roy.
Located in the northern part of Los
Glaciares National Park, the area has
been designated the Trekking Capital of
Argentina. It is filled to the brim with
great hiking trails that attract thousands
of visitors every year.
Walk Patagonia, a small company that
specializes in trekking inside the Park and
the Southern Ice Fields, describes their
hometown saying: “El Chaltén is located on
the northern shore of Lake Viedma, at the
confluence of rivers “De las Vueltas” and
“Fitz Roy”, in the northern sector of Glacier
National Park. This spot combines the magic of
glaciers and hidden lagoons, with rich Estancia
history, Lake Viedma, and the magnetic
presence of Mount Fitz Roy. The unmistakable,
omnipresent silhouette of Fitz Roy is almost
always covered by a blanket of clouds. In fact,
the indigenous Tehuelche thought these clouds
were smoke, an error that resulted in their
naming the mountain, Chaltén, which means
"mountain that smokes".
The village is of El Chaltén is located near
the shores of Viedma Lake, approximately
220 Km from El Calafate, and has about
400 permanent inhabitants. Each year,
during the months of October through
March, it becomes the center of activity for
thousands of trekkers and climbers from
around the world. Due to the popularity of
hiking, we suggest making your reservations
at least one month in advance for the
January - February high season. This is a
place in high demand!
El Chaltén was founded October 12,
1985, which makes it the youngest town in
Argentina. It was created as a service and
support center for National Park visitors. It
didn’t take long, before young entrepreneurs
began to arrive, with the dreams of living
and sharing this incredible natural area.
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134
Among the many things to
do, we recommend:
Hitting some trails. There are 100s,
but here’s a few for inspiration:
• Chorrillo del Salto Waterfall Trail
• Hike to Capri Laguna, Poincenot
Camping and the Blanco River
• Hiking to Laguna de los Tres
• Trail to the Piedras Blancas Glacier
Overlook
• Hike to the Laguna and Cerro Torre
Overlook
• Lago del Diablo Trail
Embark on other Adventures. The
possibilities are practically endless. A few of
our favorites include:
• Viedma Lake and Glacier Multisport
Excursion: The Viedma Glacier is the
second largest in Patagonia and one of
the few with easy access for visitors.
Just 15 Km from El Chaltén, this full
day excursion offers a boat excursion,
hiking, and ice-trekking.
• Visit the La Quinta Estancia, located in
the entrance of the city, where you can
relax and learn the history of the area
with Patricia Halvorsen, granddaughter
of one of the original pioneers of the
area, Halvor Halvorsen. Patricia is a
renowned historian and storyteller who
loves sharing legends and stories about
the area. She offers an entertaining
tour of the Estancia, which is a great
option for lodging during your visit. It
offers comfortable accommodations,
a restaurant, and lots of activities.
The Halvorsen family is the only with
permanent residence in El Chaltén,
since the pioneer era. Their heritage
spans over a century in this sector.
• Browse the boutiques and fairs, where
you’ll find a wealth of hand crafted
souvenirs to remember your trip. From
chocolates to technical mountain gear,
El Chaltén has it all.
• Splurge on an incredible Gastronomic
Experience. There are 30+ restaurants
in the village offering a wide range
of flavors and styles, most of which
Evelyn Pfeiffer
incorporate local elements.
• Relax and unwind in one of the
town’s spas, which offer a wide range
of services including saunas, massage
treatments, manicures, pedicures and
facials.
Some Festivals to Keep in Mind:
• Celebration of the Town’s Anniversary:
Every October 12, El Chaltén
celebrates the town anniversary with
dancing in the school gym, barbecues
and live music.
• The National Trekking Festival takes
place each year during the last week
of February. Popular with rock climbing
and bouldering enthusiasts, this festival
combines climbing competitions
with traditional cultural events; even
woodcutting. The festival also includes
running and mountain-bike races.
135
136
Craving a yummy breakfast
and a great Java fix?
Stop by any bakery or bread shop (panaderia) to purchase a
dozen or two assorted facturas.These small pastries and croissants
(medialunas) are incredibly popular in Argentina.The perfect
complement to a rich cup of fresh-ground espresso or coffee!
Cristian Solis
Look no further, we have your answer!
Facturas come in an endless variety of sizes
and flavors, ranging from super sweet to
savory. Why not surprise your group, with
a morning version of Tablas, by arranging a
delicious array of treats for all to share.
Some of the favorites include:
• Medialunas, (think croissant), the most
common factura, shaped like a halfmoon. There are two basic types, the
“medialuna de manteca”, made with
rich buttery dough and the savory
“medialuna de grasa”, made with animal
fat. You can also find both savory and
sweet versions of medialunas filled with
a variety of delicious fillings.
• Facturas con Membrillo are usually
Cristian Solis
oblong shaped or formed in a twist,
with a garnish of membrillo or other
fruit jams. Sometimes these also have a
dab of pastry cream.
• Palmeritas are a large, flat, circular, crusty
piece of pastry coated in sugar.
• Scones are small buns, sometimes filled
with colorful dried fruit.
• Churros are deep fried and cylindrical
in shape. Some are coated in chocolate
and some filled with dulce de leche.
In El Chaltén, you will find endless
variety of Facturas! Explore
to your belly’s content in the
cafés, bread shops (Panaderias),
bakeries, and supermarkets in
town.
137
Trekking in the northern zone of
Los Glaciares National Park.
Put Los Glaciares National Park at the top of your Bucket List and start
making plans! Awarded UNESCO’s World Heritage Site designation in
1981, this Park is home to incredible peaks like Fitz Roy and Torres,
enormous glaciers, and the aquamarine waters of Viedma Lake.
number of important peaks, such as Mount
Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre, which are world
renowned sites for climbers and hikers.
Comprehensive information, including trail
conditions, fishing and mountaineering
permits, camping area availability, etc, are
available at the Park’s Visitor Information
Center in the sector of Viedma Lake, just
outside the entrance to El Chaltén.
The trekking season extends from October
through April, depending on weather and
snow cover. Even in the peak periods,
you are likely to encounter snow in higher
altitudes; we recommend checking on trail
conditions with the rangers before starting
each hike.
Evelyn Pfeiffer
Los Glaciares (The Glaciers) National
Park was created in 1937 and awarded
UNESCO’s “World
Heritage
Site”
designation in 1981. This incredible Park
is home to the Perito Moreno Glacier,
the Upsala Glacier, Roca, Lake, Mount Fitz
Roy, the Viedma Glacier, Laguna/Lago del
Desierto, the community of El Chaltén, and
much more.
The Park is named for the Southern
Patagonia Ice Fields which are the largest
outside of Antarctica and Greenland. The
fields feed 47 large glaciers; of which 13 flow
toward the Atlantic Ocean and Argentina,
and the rest, 34, toward Chile. The Park is
divided in two main sectors, each associated
with one of two lakes. The northern
zone of the Park consists of Viedma Lake
and Glacier, a few smaller glaciers and a
138
El Chaltén is home to a large number of
professional guides; experts in the terrain
of the northern end of Los Glaciares
National Park. Experiencing the Park with
one of these guides is a great option. They
are trained in first aid and mountain safety
and can share insights about the terrain and
natural history of the Park that will enhance
your experience. Look for guides who
are certified by the Argentine Association
of Mountain Guides (AAGM). Check
our Service Directory or the Tourism
Information Office in El Chaltén for details.
NOTES
Chorrillo del Salto Waterfall Hike.
This is a great short hike, (11 Km ), when first arriving to El Chaltén,
that will help you warm up for longer treks in days to come. Just
outside of town, the hike takes no more than 2 hours.
• Sector: El Chaltén
• Starting Point: Northern end of
Av. San Martin
• Ending Point: Northern end of Av.
San Martin
• Considerations: The trails in El
Chaltén are all very well marked
and only for hiking. If you passion is
mountain biking, there are separate
options just for you, nearby this trail.
Check for details in town.
• Distance: 11 Km
• Duration: 2 hours.
• Difficulty: Easy. Great for everyone.
The Route: Like many hikes in El Chaltén,
you can walk right from your cabaña or
hotel to the trail head. Head to the top of
the main street, Av. San Martin. Turn right
onto the road to Laguna/Lago (Lagoon/
Lake) del Desierto. You’ll walk 5 Km on this
Rodrigo Merino
winding gravel road to reach the trail head.
Around the 5 Km mark, you will find a small
clearing and a sign marking the Chorrillo
del Salto trail. The trail passes through
native lenga, (nothofagus pumilio), and ñire,
(nothofagus antarcticus), forests, and is well
formed from years of hiking. The trail leads
uphill alongside the Chorrillos del Salto
River (gain of 10 m). It then flattens out
for a brief walk, leading you to the Chorrillo
de Salto waterfall. The trail is marked with
indicators on the trees alongside, and with
rock cairns (small piles of rocks) with arrow
indicators. This hike is an out and back,
returning along the same trail. Depending
on time spent at the waterfall, the total hike
will take about 2 hours.
Rodrigo Merino
139
Hike to Capri Lagoon, Poincenot
Camping and the Blanco River.
If you are hoping to get up close to the famed peaks of Mt.. Fitz Roy, we
suggest this 6-8 hour, 20 Km hike.You can break the hike into two segments,
camping at the Capri Lagoon or Poincenot Campgrounds, along the trail (free).
The Route: Head north 1 Km toward
Laguna/Lago del Desierto and the Los
Glaciares National Park sign marking the
trail head. The trail begins with a fairly steep
ascent, climbing for roughly 20 minutes,
before rewarding you with an overlook of
the De Las Vueltas River.
From here, the trail climbs along the foot
of Mount Rosado. You’ll cross a few open
areas before arriving at a small lagoon which
provides prime photography opportunities,
with Mt.. Fitz Roy in the background. 200
meters after the lagoon, hikers will find a
rock out-cropping that provides another
fantastic overlook of Fitz Roy, Saint-Exupery,
Poincenot, Mermoz, and Guillaument.
Rodrigo Merino
• Starting Point: Northern end of El
Chaltén, Av. San Martin
• Ending Point: Northern end of El
Chaltén, Av. San Martin
• Considerations: Although listed as
easy, many hikers are tired by the end
of a day in the sun, on this hike. We
recommend that families with small
children turn-around at Capri Lake.
Remember that this camping is on a
first-come, first-served basis and tends
to fill up quickly, especially during peak
months.
• Distance: 20 Km, out and back.
• Duration: 6-8 hours.
• Difficulty: A long day for families;
but, suitable for all.
140
This overlook is a turnaround spot for
hikers seeking a shorter day; only a 1½ hour
hike from El Chaltén. Continuing another
20 minutes through rolling hills, hikers will
turn left at the signs indicating the Capri
Lagoon Camping Area. Here, you will have
great views of the massif and the first of two
options for camping.
The final section follows the banks of the
Chorrillo del Salto River for a while, before
crossing. On the other side, you will soon
encounter a second campground called
the Poincenot Campground. Afterwards
the trail steeply climbs on its way to the
swift moving, Blanco River. The wooden
footbridge crossing this river leads to a
climber-only campground which provides
another great vista and optional turnaround point, if you plan to complete this
hike in one day.
Check out the option to extend this hike,
described in the article about hiking to De
los Tres Lagoon.
Hike to De los Tres Lagoon (Extension
of the Trek to Capri Lagoon, Poincenot
Camping and the Blanco River).
After reaching the climber only campsite at the Blanco River, we highly
suggest pushing on to the De los Tres Lagoon, an area which provides
some of the most spectacular views around, on clear days.
• Starting Point: Climber only
campsite at the Blanco River
• Ending Point: Climber only
campsite at Blanco River
• Considerations: This route is an
extension of the hike to Capri Lagoon,
Poincenot Campgrounds, and the
Blanco River.
• Distance: 5 Km (out and back)
• Seasonality: November – March
• Difficulty: Challenging; not
recommended for small children.
The Route: This extension of the hike
to Capri Lagoon, Poincenot Camping, and
the Blanco River, is especially recommended
on clear days when the spectacular views
at the top make the extra climbing truly
worthwhile. Starting from the climber
only campsite at the Blanco River, begin
hiking uphill for approximately 2½ Km, until
reaching the old frontal moraine of the De
los Tres Glacier. Here you’ll encounter a
panoramic view of the De los Tres Lagoon.
Continue down to the natural drainage
point of the De los Tres Glacier, where you
will reach your true reward. On this terrace,
above the Sucia Lagoon you’ll find views of
the glacier spilling down and the Poincenot
and Saint-Exupery Needles. This extension
hike will take roughly 2 extra hours, so, if you
are planning on doing the entire distance
from El Chaltén in one day, plan on leaving
early, and allow plenty of time.
Evelyn Pfeiffer
141
Day Hike to the Piedras
Blancas Glacier Overlook.
Day hike, with various route options, leading to an overlook for the Piedras
Blancas Glacier, one of the lowest hanging glaciers in the zone of Mount Fitz Roy.
• Starting Point: 15 Km from El
Chaltén along Provincial Route 23,
at the bridge over the Blanco River.
Alternate route leaves from north end
of El Chaltén, Av. San Martin.
• Ending Point: Bridge over the
Blanco River or north end of El
Chaltén, Av. San Martin.
• Considerations: There are several
routes possible for this hike. Read
the descriptions below and obtain a
map of the zone from the Park Visitor
Information Center.
• Distance: 12 Km, out and back, to
reach the overlook from the most
direct route. 16 Km, out and back, if
you continue to the Camping Area or
access via the alternative route.
• Difficulty: Apt for all.
The Route: From the bridge over the
Blanco River along Provincial Route 23, take
the trail that goes alongside the river. After
approximately two hours, you will reach
an overlook with a westerly view of the
Piedras Blancas Glacier. You cannot cross
the river here. Continue to the Poincenot
Camp and from there; head back to El
Chaltén or camp overnight.
Another alternative is to take the trail
from El Chaltén to the De los Tres Lagoon
and cross the footbridge over the Blanco
River. After crossing the footbridge, at the
mountaineering camp, detour right, heading
down river. Continue on this path to the
Piedras Blancas Stream, descending west, a
little less than an hour's walk from Camp
Poincenot. Turn 90° west, in front of the
glacier, on the trail that traces the right bank
of the stream. Cross, just before the river’s
start. Once on the other side of the river,
follow it down, almost to the lake, where
you will have an excellent view of the
northeast face of Fitz Roy and its glacier.
Patrick McGarry
142
Hike to the Cerro Torre
Lagoon and Overlook.
This day hike offers spectacular views of Cerro Torre, one of the
most acclaimed mountaineering mountains in the world.The 18½
Km trek will take 4 - 5 hours, leading you through dense Patagonian
forests to the glacial moraine of the Cerro Torre Lagoon.
Keith Bosak
• Starting Point: Corner of Av. San
Martin and Ricardo Arbilla
• Ending Point: Corner of Av. San
Martin and Ricardo Arbilla
• Considerations: During sunny,
hot summer days, we suggest getting
an early start to avoid the heat. Carry
a backpack with enough water for the
day and clothing for weather changes.
• Distance: 18 Km
• Duration: 3-4 hours.
• Seasonality: October – March
• Difficulty: Challenging with steep
climbs and slippery moraine.
The Route: Turning onto Ricardo Arbilla
from San Martin, there are several dirt paths
that lead uphill to the trail head. Once on
the trail, you will wind slowly uphill for the
first few kilometers, with great views of
town. The trail continues alongside the Fitz
Roy River as it winds along the mountainside.
You’ll climb over rolling hills leading to a
long, final climb that rewards with the first
of many overlooks of Cerro Torre. This is a
good stopping point for families hiking with
children.
Continuing, the trail descends to cross a flat
leading up to the glacial moraine. Here, the
trail changes to rock. The hiking becomes
difficult as you traverse the large, tilled rocks,
caused during the formation of the Torre
Lagoon, but the short challenge ends with
a remarkable view. Here, break, for lunch
and the opportunity to soak in Cerro Torre
and the lagoon. The glaciers themselves
can only be reached with a professional
guide, as access requires crossing the river
using a harness system. There are several
mountaineering schools and outfitters that
provide ice climbing, trekking, and glacial
walks located in the town of El Chaltén.
Most of these operators also offer guided
hikes to the overlook; a great way to learn
more about natural history of the area.
143
Seeking solitude and pure nature?
Head to Los Huemules.
A short drive north to the Estancia Los Huemules Nature Reserve will put you in
the middle of great trails, incredibly varied landscapes and lots of opportunities for
solitude as you hike. Try this wonderful day hike to Lago de Diablo (Devil’s Lake).
• Considerations: There is a small
entrance fee and you will need to
hire a transport service to reach the
Estancia Los Huemules Private Reserve.
• Distance: 12 Km, out & back
• Duration: 3 - 5 hours
• Difficulty: Great for everyone.
Magellanic or black woodpecker (campephilus
magellanicus), Evelyn Pfeiffer
• Sector: Estancia Los Huemules
Private Reserve, 20 Km north out of
Chaltén
• Starting Point: Estancia Los
Huemules Private Reserve
• Ending Point: Estancia Los
Huemules Private Reserve
The Route: Seeking a little solitude?
Estancia Los Huemules Private Reserve is
the perfect refuge. Hire a transfer service
in to drop you at Los Huemules, where you
can access 25 Km of trails and a variety of
landscapes and challenges. This trail leads
towards Del Las Vueltas River. Once at the
River, the trail turns northwest climbing
alongside the River for 6 Km to the rocky
moraine of Del Diablo Lake. The trail is very
well-marked, allowing you to focus on the
rich flora of this area.
We suggest spending the full day
trekking in Los Huemules. Pack a
lunch for an unforgettable picnic
on the lake shore and extra clothing
in case you choose to join the brave
souls who dare to enter the frigid
glacial waters!
Evelyn Pfeiffer
144
Explore Viedma Lake & Glacier.
“Perhaps the best way to experience and learn about a glacier is walking
through it. What you have seen from a distance, suddenly becomes ‘up
close and personal’, when you are walking within the giant ice-filled terrain,
enjoying its array of hues, transparent clear tones, whites and blues.”
(Modified text of Evelyn Pfeiffer,Travel Writer and Photographer, www.evelynpfeiffer.com)
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Activity Type: Multisport Excursion
Sector: Viedma Lake, El Chaltén
Starting Point: El Chaltén
Ending Point: El Chaltén
Considerations: Check the Service
Directory for tour operator details.
Distance: 60 Km
Duration: 8 hours.
Seasonality: October to March
Difficulty: The boat trip and hike
to the overlook are suitable for all; the
glacier hike only for adults with the
proper level of physical fitness.
The Excursion: If you are seeking a fullon experience with the natural environment
of the area, we recommend this day-long
excursion which includes boating, trekking,
and glacial hiking at Viedma Lake and Glacier.
There are numerous tour operators who
offer full day trips to the Glacier, which
normally include transfers to and from El
Chaltén, the boat ride to the Glacier, and
equipment for the guided glacial trek.
The day typically begins around 08h30, with
a short 15 Km drive from El Chaltén to
Bahia Túnel on the northern shore of Lago
Viedma. Here, you’ll board the Fonrouge,
a boat with capacity for up to 60 persons,
for a 09h00 departure. The boat excursion
lasts two hours, sailing from Bahia Tunel
to the southern end of the lake, where a
multitude of icebergs gather in the waters
surrounding the rocky shore.
You’ll have the opportunity to disembark
and hike a short distance to an overlook
where you can take in the grand expanse
of the Viedma Glacier, against the backdrop
of Cerro Huemul’s peaks (2,677 m). Viedma
is the second largest of the Southern Ice
Field’s 48 outlet glaciers (978 Km²) and one
of the few with easy access. Adventurers
can join bilingual guides, who will provide
crampons and other ice-hiking gear before
heading onto the glacier. The trek typically
takes 2 to 2½ hours, before concluding at
the rock cropping where you will re board
the boat for the return trip.
Some practical advice: Dress for
warmth with multiple layers of clothing. It is
easier to peel off layers than to attempt to
compensate for too little clothing. Prepare
with layers for all weather conditions; in
Patagonia it is common to experience many
forms of weather in the same day!
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Are you one of the many people who learn about local culture using your taste
buds? If so, give this gastronomic experience a try. It’s a fun and delicious way
to try out traditions and tastes of Patagonia after a great day on the trails.
• Activity Type: Self-guided tour
through El Chaltén on a quest to
encounter the best empanadas!
• Starting Point: Northern end of
Av. San Martin
• Ending Point: El Chaltén Welcome
Sign on Av. San Martin
• Considerations: Bring an appetite
and don’t forget your camera!
Almost all cultures have some version of
empanadas; which, in their essence, are
hand-held bread pies stuffed with an infinite
variety of fillings. In actuality, this precursor
to Kellogg’s “pop-tart” dates back to ancient
times. Examples from other parts of the
world include Italian calzones, PolishRussian pierogis, English turnovers, Cornish
pasties, Middle-Eastern/Indian sanbusaq,
aka, samosa, Italian-American strombolis,
Cristian Solis
•
•
•
•
Distance: Up to you…
Duration: Again, up to you…
Seasonality: Year Round.
Difficulty: Perfect for everyone.
The Tour: Revealing the secrets of an
Undiscovered Patagonia includes trying our
typical dishes. Empanadas are a mainstay in
Patagonia; our version of fast food. Baked
or fried, they are the perfect self-contained
snack; great to purchase or prepare ahead
and gobble up during a break from work
in the fields, or in your case, at a picnic spot
alongside one of our many trails.
146
Louisiana Natchitoches, (deep south U.S.A.),
and countless variations of Tamales tracing
back to the Indigenous cultures of the
Americas. Our own Patagonian empanadas
are believed to have originated in Spain,
probably migrating to South America with
the first European settlers.
The name derives from the Spanish word,
emanar, which means, to coat with bread.
The traditional Patagonian fillings include:
1) traditional beef filling, containing ground
beef, onions, raisins, hard-boiled eggs, cumin,
and a little aji sauce; 2) ham and cheese,
or more frequently, simply good old gooey
Need ideas to get you started? Okay, who
can eat the most? Grand Tour of Empanada
fun, captured on video for sharing on You
Tube? Three-legged races between stops?
You get the idea; so we’ll wish you, Buen
provecho. Go out there and find those
empanadas! P.S. Here’s a space for your first
Trip Advisor Review notes.
NOTES
Patrick McGarry
cheese, and 3) a sweet version containing
spiced apples and raisins.
These days our empanadas are filled with all
sorts of flavors, influenced by trends coming
from all around the world. Hot spots in
El Chaltén serve both the basics and new
fusion versions of empanadas. They’re great
as part of a tapas-style meal, a snack, or an
appetizer, almost always accompanied by
dipping sauces and your choice of a tasty,
cold beverage.
We suggest a Grand Tour de
Empanadas, in which you visit the
restaurants and pubs of town in
search of your favorite versions!
Your route might begin at the northern
end of town and proceed south, stopping
to sample at each of the many restaurants
with empanadas on their menu. Of course,
detours and side routes are permitted;
basically, the final route is up to you and
your stomach! After you’ve had your fill,
wrap up your tour at the southernmost
part of town with a classic photo stop at
the El Chaltén Welcome Sign!
Though we doubt you need it, here’s a tip;
although it is fun touring alone, the tour is
best enjoyed with friends who will join in
on an endless variety of possible side games.
Rodrigo Merino
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Prepare your own Empanadas
with a Patagonian style.
Introducing the Trekking Capital of Argentina’s newest trail! You’ll find the
trail head for this adventure at the closest market in town. From there, follow
this path through the creation of a batch of Patagonian empanadas!
Empanadas are fun and easy to make. You
can even prepare a simple version while
camping or backpacking. Here’s all you’ll
need to know, in five easy steps.
Step 1: Wander into town to
purchase ingredients. Information on
local supermarkets is included in the Service
Directory.
Shopping List: To make a batch of
empanadas (15 medium sized, or 25 small),
your shopping list for the crust will include
a small bag (1 Kilo) of flour, a small packet
or shaker of salt, 500 cc of Butter, and 1 egg.
You’ll also need to purchase the ingredients
for the filling you wish to use. Here’s the
list for each of the three basic Patagonian
versions:
Version 1 - Traditional Beef Filling (Pino):
½ kilo lean ground beef, 2 onions, a small
bottle of vegetable oil, a small packet or box
of Pimenton Rojo (Sweet paprika), 1 small
bottle of Aji or hot sauce, (put a touch in
the filling and reserve the rest for dipping), a
small packet of ground Cumin, a small bottle
of White Vinegar, a small packet of raisins,
a small pouch of Black or Kalamata Olives,
and 3 eggs.
Version 2 - Ham and Cheese or Cheese
Only Filling: ½ kilo of a semi-hard cheese
(Gouda, Chancho, etc), and optionally, 1 or 2
pre-packaged packets of sliced ham.
Version 3 - Sweet Cinnamon Apple Filling:
Leftover butter from the 500 cc you’ll use
for the crust, 4-5 firm, green apples, e.g.,
Granny Smith, a small bag of white sugar, a
packet of cinnamon, a small bag of brown
sugar (if you can’t find this, don’t worry; you
can use a bit more white sugar), a small
box of corn starch, some of the salt you’ve
already purchased for the crust, 1 small jar
of dulce de leche (optional), and 1 egg.
Step 2: Prepare the Crust: Mix 3
cups flour and ¼ teaspoon salt thoroughly
and then add 1 egg, ¾ cup of cold butter,
Cristian Solis
148
cut into small pieces, and 4 - 5 Tablespoons
of water. Mix until a clumpy dough forms.
Knead the dough well, (5 – 8 minutes), on
a floured surface. Once kneaded, form a
ball and chill in the refrigerator for about
30 minutes.
Step 3: Prepare the Filling:
Sauté 2 chopped onions in ½ cup of
vegetable oil, until they are transparent.
Add ½ kilo lean ground beef, 2 teaspoons
Pimenton Rojo (Sweet paprika), 1 teaspoon
Aji or hot sauce, 1 teaspoon ground cumin,
and 1 Tablespoon of White Vinegar. Cook
for approximately 20 minutes until the beef
is browned and the flavors have had time
to blend together. Salt to taste. Remove
from heat and allow to cool. (Patagonians
swear that you should make this filling, called
pino, at least one day in advance, and store
it in the refrigerator to allow the flavors to
properly blend). Soak the raisins in a bowl
of water, allowing them to plump. Remove
the pits from the olives and reserve in a
small bowl. Hard-boil the eggs; then peel
and chop and reserve in a small bowl.
Only Filling: Cube cheese in squares of
approximately 1½ – 2 oz each. If you are
using ham, chop and reserve in a small bowl.
Peel and core the apples, then cut them
into small cubes. Add to a saucepan with
2 tablespoons butter, ½ cup white sugar
and ¼ cup brown sugar (or ¾ cup white
sugar), a pinch of salt, and 1 – 2 teaspoons of
cinnamon. Cook apples over medium heat,
until they are just tender. In a small bowl,
mix a tablespoon or two of water into 2
tablespoons of corn starch until smooth.
Add cornstarch mixture to the apples and
cook, stirring, until mixture starts to thicken.
Remove the apples from the heat and if
desired, stir in 3 tablespoons of dulce de
leche. Chill apple mixture for at least an
hour, stirring occasionally.
Step 4: Assemble the Empanadas:
Roll out the dough into a thin sheet, about
2 mm in thickness, and cut out round disc
shapes (You can use a small bread plate as a
pattern and cut around the outer rim). Wet
the edge of a dough circle slightly, all around
the perimeter.
Place one scant tablespoon of filling, 2 olives,
3-4 raisins, and 1/2 teaspoon of chopped
hard-boiled eggs in the middle of the dough.
Only Filling: Place one cube of cheese and
½ teaspoon of chopped ham (optional) in
the middle of the dough.
Place one scant tablespoon of filling in the
middle of the dough.
Fold the circle in half, enclosing the filling,
and pinch the edges together firmly to seal,
flattening and extending them slightly as you
pinch them. Fold and crimp the flattened
edge over itself decoratively. Repeat with
remaining empanadas.
Step 5: Cook the Empanadas: For
any of the three versions, there are two
options for cooking. First, you can bake
your empanadas on a baking sheet in a
preheated 180˚C oven, for 20-30 minutes
until browned. If you choose to bake, use
a fork to poke a few holes in the tops for
steam to escape and brush with whipped
egg yolk before baking. Special note: Fruit
empanadas are famous for leaking in the
oven. It helps to chill the formed empanadas
overnight before baking. The second option
is to deep-fry your empanadas in hot
vegetable oil for 5 – 7 minutes, until golden
brown. Allow to cool a bit before eating!
P.S. Preparing empanadas in the
back-country: Empanadas can be
prepared and eaten almost anywhere. For
use in the back-country, we suggest that
you prepared the version which is deep
fried. You can prepare these using portable
back-country stoves; however, please take
care with the use of hot oil! Alternatively,
pack in your empanadas, already prepared.
Buen provecho!
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Service Directory for Stage 2
Follow the Sun through the Austral Steppe.
2A
Perito Moreno, AR, Corner of San Martín & Rivadavia.
Banco de Santa Cruz w/ATM (Red Link) & basic services, including Traveler Check Exchange.
2B
Gobernador Gregores, AR, San Martín 402, (02962) 491006.
Banco de Santa Cruz w/ATM (Red Link) & basic services, including Traveler Check Exchange.
2E
El Chaltén, AR, Perito Moreno 28 (Inside the Bus Terminal).
Banco de Santa Cruz, ATM (Red Link), situated in the Bus Terminal. No branch.
2A
Tourism Information Office, Perito Moreno
Perito Moreno, AR, San Martín, (02963) 432732,
peritomoreno@santacruzpatagonia.gob.ar.
Open 07h00 - 18h00, Monday - Fridays, & 08h00-15h00 Saturdays & Sundays, this Tourism
Information Office is helpful, w/a surprising number of pamphlets & brochures.
2B
Tourism Information Office, Gobernador Gregores
Gobernador Gregores, AR, San Martín 514, (02962) 491259,
gregoresturismo@yahoo.com.ar.
The town of Gobernador Gregores has a Tourism Information Office which can provide brochures,
maps & advice. Office hours are 08h00-14h00, Mondays - Fridays.
2B
Perito Moreno National Park Administrative Offices
Gobernador Gregores, AR, San Martín 882, (02962) 491477,
w w w.parquesnacionales.gov.ar/parques, peritomoreno@apn.gov.ar.
Administration Office f/Perito Moreno National Park in Gobernador Gregores, which is the closest
town (09h00-16h00, Mondays - Fridays). Once in the park, visit the Information Center to pay
entrance fees, get information on the numerous trails, free camping areas, archaeological sites, &
nearby Estancias.
2D
Tourism Information Office, Tres Lagos
Tres Lagos, AR, San Martin, Block 13, (02962) 495031.
The Tourism Information Office is located in the Development Commission of Tres Lagos, AR, & can
provide maps, brochures & advice to travelers.
2E
Tourism Information Office, El Chaltén
El Chaltén, AR, 28 Perito Moreno (Inside the Bus Terminal), (02962) 493370,
lguevara@santacruzpatagonia.gob.ar or licluisinaguevara@hotmail.com.
The Tourism Information Office is in the Bus Terminal has a good supply of brochures, maps & helpful
information.
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2E
Los Glaciares National Park
El Chaltén, AR, Viedma Lake Sector, (02962) 493004,
www.parquesnacionales.gov.ar/parques, seccionallagoviedma@apn.gov.ar.
The Los Glaciares National Park Information Center, named for Park Guard Ceferino Fonzo, provides
maps, brochures & interpretative exhibits about the resources within the Park & its flora & fauna. If
you want to access the remote areas of the Park, visit the center & meet w/a ranger to obtain permits
& comply w/requirements.
2E
Los Huemules Private Nature Reserve
El Chaltén, AR, Provincial highway 23, 17 Km north of El Chaltén, (011 SAT), 41525300.
www.loshuemules.com, info@loshuemules.com.
The Private Reserve at Estancia Los Huemules (AR $ 50 entry) is located 17 Km beyond El Chaltén,
just after the Electrico River. The Natural Reserve occupies about 5,500 hectares & a range of natural
environments; great mountains, glaciers, beech & ñire forests, rivers, lakes, lagoons & wetlands. There
are 25 Km of marked trails providing a quiet alternative to the neighboring National Park. Stop by
the Visitor Center to learn about the fauna, flora, topography & climate of the region, as well as the
accounts of the first explorations, the early inhabitants & pioneers of the area.
GENERAL – SAFETY
2B
Police Station, Gobernador Gregores
Investigation & response management in the case of incidents or accidents & assistance w/other
2D
Police Station, Tres Lagos
Tres Lagos, AR, Av San Martín 18, (02962) 495058.
2E
Police Station, El Chaltén
El Chaltén, AR, Av. San Martín 14, (02962) 493003.
GENERAL – HEALTH
2A
Oscar H. Natale District Hospital, Perito Moreno
Perito Moreno, AR, Colón 1237, (02963) 432040.
Perito Moreno, 128 Km to the north of Bajo Caracoles, via Route 40, has a small hospital. Services
include general medicine, an emergency room, ambulance service & preventative care.
2B
District Hospital, Gobernador Gregores
Gobernador Gregores, AR, Paradelo 1025, (02962) 491027.
Services include general medicine, emergency room, ambulance & preventative care.
2D
Rural Health Post, Tres Lagos
Tres Lagos, AR, Av San Martín (unnumbered), (02962) 495074.
First-aid Center that offers Basic Medical Services including first-aid, general medicine, outpatient care,
& preventive medicine.
2E
Rural Health Post, El Chaltén
El Chaltén, AR, De Agostini (unnumbered), (02962) 493033,
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www.puestosanitarioelchalten.blogspot.com,
puestosanitarioelchalten@yahoo.com.ar.
This is the Provincial medical care establishment f/the community of El Chaltén. It provides primary
health care, emergency & basic preventative care. Medical Office Hours: Monday to Friday from
08h00 to 19h00, Saturday from 10h00 to 13h00, & Sundays, from 10h00 to 13h00. In the remaining
hours medical care is only f/emergencies.
2B
Correo Argentino (Post Office)
Gobernador Gregores, AR, Alberdi 490, (02962) 491034.
Local branch of Argentina’s national postal service.
2E
Correo Argentino (Post Office)
El Chaltén, AR, Andreas Madsen 22, (02962) 493172.
Local branch of Argentina’s national postal service.
2A
LADE Airline, Perito Moreno
Perito Moreno, AR, San Martín 1065, (02963) 432055,
www.lade.com.ar, pmoreno@lade.com.ar.
LADE flies between Perito Moreno & El Calafate on Thursdays, each week. LADE offers other
2C
LADE Airline, Gobernador Gregores
Gobernador Gregores, AR, Cristobal Colon 544, (02962) 491008,
www.lade.com.ar, gregores@lade.com.ar.
LADE flies between Perito Moreno & El Calafate on Thursdays, each week. LADE offers other
2A
Buses Taqsa
Perito Moreno, AR, Bus Terminal, (02963) 432675, www.taqsa.com.ar.
Buses Taqsa, runs the entire stretch of RN 40 between El Calafate & Bariloche several times a week
starting at the end of October, stopping at El Chaltén, Bajo Caracoles, Perito Moreno & Esquel.
2C
Cerro San Lorenzo Bus Station
Gobernador Gregores, AR, Beruti 970, (02962) 452403.
Taqsa & other bus lines use the Cerro San Lorenzo Bus Depot as their headquarters in Gobernador
Gregores. You can go to the Depot f/details, schedules & reservations.
2E
Terminal de Ómnibus
El Chaltén, AR, Perito Moreno 28, (02962) 493370.
Bus terminal, which has an ATM Machine and the Tourism Information Office for El Chaltén.
2E
Buses Taqsa
El Chaltén, AR, Av Antonio Rojo 88 or in the Omnibus Terminal: Perito Moreno Nº28 loc
2, (02962) 493068 / 493294 / or in the Terminal: 493370 ext. 22, www.taqsa.com.ar.
Bus service between El Chaltén & Calafate, as well as to points north in the Province of Santa Cruz.
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2E
Cal-tur Ómnibus
El Chaltén, AR, Av. San Martín 451 or Bus Terminal: Perito Moreno Nº28 loc 3, (02962)
493150, caltur@cotecal.com.ar.
Bus service between El Chaltén & Calafate, as well as to points north in the Santa Cruz Province.
2E
Chaltén Travel Turismo
El Chaltén, AR, On the corner of Güemes & Lago del Desierto & in the Bus Terminal:
Perito Moreno 28, Location 4, (02962) 493092 or in the terminal: 493392,
www.chaltentravel.com, contacto@chaltentravel.com.
You can contact 1 of their offices (El Calafate, AR; El Chaltén, AR; or Coyhaique, CH), f/details, days
of departure & arrival, & reservations. Chaltén Travel is the only company specializing in Patagonia
transfers along the legendary Route 40, linking Bariloche, Perito Moreno, El Chaltén & El Calafate
through a journey of adventure & amazing scenery. Recently they have incorporated the renowned
Carretera Austral in Chile into their itineraries, linking the towns of Chile Chico, Chaitén & Coyhaique.
2A
Las Lengas Transportation
El Chaltén, AR, Antonio de Viedma 95 or in the Omnibus Terminal, Perito Moreno 28,
(02962) 493023 or in the Terminal: 493370 ext. 26.
Shuttles directly to El Calafate Airport (AR$120) in high season. Also has minivans to Lago/Laguna
del Desierto (AR$130), Hostería El Pilar (AR$50) & Eléctrico River near Los Huemules (AR$50).
2E
Walk Patagonia Transportation
El Chaltén, AR, 62 Antonio Rojo Ave. Office 2, (02962) 493275,
www.walkpatagonia.com, info@walkpatagonia.com.
Transfers in the sector of El Chaltén: El Pilar, Laguna/Lago del Desierto, Bahia Tunel, & special or private
trips to & from the El Calafate Airport, in 4x4 vehicles or 15 person minibus.
2A
Petrobras La Rotonda
Perito Moreno, AR, Crossroads of RP 43 & 45, (02963) 432063.
Gasoline & diesel fuel sales.
2A
YPF Gas Station
Perito Moreno, AR, Corner of 9 De Julio & Rivadavia, (02963) 432017.
2B
YPF Gas Station
Gobernador Gregores, AR, Ant Argentina, (02962) 491934.
2D
YPF Gas Station
Tres Lagos, AR, National Route (RN) 40 - 3Kms from Tres Lagos, (02962) 495031.
Gasoline & diesel fuel sales. Fresh-baked empanadas & other snacks are often available.
2E
El Abuelo
El Chaltén, AR, Cerro Solo 27, (02962) 493051.
Tire Repair Shop.
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2E
El Manto Mechanic & Tire Repairs
El Chaltén, AR, Antonio de Viedma, (02962) 493061.
Mechanic & Tire Repair Services.
2E
La Estación Gas Station
El Chaltén, AR, Corner of Av Güemes & Perito Moreno, (02962) 493366.
Sale of fuels (Nafta), gasoline & diesel.
2E
Patagonia Hikes Rentals & Mountain Equipment Store
El Chaltén, AR, 250 Lago Del Desierto Ave, (02962) 493359, www.patagoniahikes.com.
This store allow you to buy or rent equipment f/you mountain adventure in El Chaltén. Top quality
national & international brands, which offer a combination of value & quality; all under 1 roof. Don’t
freak out if you forget something – they have everything you need.
2E
Viento Oeste Store
El Chaltén, AR, Av. San Martín 898, (02962) 493200, www.elchalten.com/vientooeste.
Since 1993, the source f/rental & sale of equipment & clothing (new & used) & the best souvenirs,
including rock & ice climbing equipment, jackets, boots, tents, backpacks, sleeping bags, gas canisters &
solvent, regional crafts & souvenirs. They also sell books, guides, maps, postcards, posters & technical
clothing f/trekking & mountaineering.
2A
Hospedaje at the Cueva de las Manos Estancia
Bajo Caracoles, AR, Cueva de las Manos Sector, S47 1.4121 - W70 38.517, (011SAT) /
(02963) 52374043 / 432319, www.cuevadelasmanos.net,
cuevadelasmanos@hotmail.com.
The Guest House of the Estancia has 1 bedroom w/2 single beds, 1 matrimonial room, & 3 triple
rooms (1 w/a queen bed & single bed). All are carpeted, w/private baths.The Guest House has a living
room area f/relaxing & a restaurant. Everything w/a unique petroglyph style.
2A
Hotel Bajo Caracoles
Bajo Caracoles, AR, Bajo Caracoles, (02963) 490100.
The historic Bajo Caracoles Hotel (AR$280) was built in the 1940s, at the height of The Wool Route.
Still functional, this is a popular stop f/travelers adventuring on the famous RN-40. Reservations are
suggested! A tip: The telephone number provided is a public telephone, located inside the hotel.
2B
Estancia El Menelik
Gobernador Gregores, AR, Traveling south on RN40, at the crossroads in Sector Las
Horquetas, take RP 37, west f/80 Km until you reach the Estancia. (011 SAT) 47658085 /
47080217, www.cielospatagonicos.com.
Near Perito Moreno National Park & majestic Cerro San Lorenzo, the Menelik Estancia opens its
arms to travelers hoping to discover the life of the Patagonian Estancias. There are 2 bedrooms, 1
double & 1 quadruple, w/private baths. 2 shelters f/large families or groups, up to 30 people, access
to grills & a kitchen. Typical cuisine featuring home-grown vegetables from the greenhouse, & meats
from the Estancia. They also sell gasoline.
2B
Estancia La Oriental
Gobernador Gregores, AR, RP 37, 1 Km from Belgrano Lake, inside Perito Moreno
National Park, (02962) 452445 / 452196.
Within the Perito Moreno National Park, La Oriental Estancia offers camping, hot showers, lodging,
meals, guided horseback trips, & food service f/groups. Minimum 2 night stay. 4 triples & 1 double, w/
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private baths, 1 single w/shared bath & 1 quad room w/a shared bath.
2B
Hostería Alberdi
Gobernador Gregores, AR, Alberdi 678, (02962) 491174.
Comfortable fully furnished, equipped apartments, w/breakfast included. Amenities include cable
TV, microwave, refrigerator, private bath, dishes, linens, etc. Strategically located on Alberdi Street
between Belgrano Avenue & Perito Moreno, just 100 meters from the shopping center of town.
2B
Hostería Kaiken
Gobernador Gregores, AR, Belgrano 251, (02962) 491157,
www.kaiken-gregores.com.ar, reservas@kaiken-gregores.com.ar.
Comfortable lodging; a mix of apartments & rooms w/private baths, breakfast, cable TV, refrigerator,
microwave, shuttle service, Wi-Fi, room service & laundry service. Friendly, personalized attention,
provided by the owners. The owners write, “We hope you leave w/fantastic memories of our
hostería & Gobernador Gregores, where you’ll receive typical Patagonia style hospitality.
2B
Hotel Cañadón León
Gobernador Gregores, AR, Roca 397, (02962) 491082, gregoresturismo@yahoo.com.ar.
11 rooms that are ample & spotless (s/d/tr AR$230/280/370). Reserve ahead.
2C
Estancia Laguna Verde
Gobernador Gregores, AR, Located 115 kilometers from Gobernador Gregores.
Following RP 29, heading southwest, you’ll take an Estancia Road to the right, a few Km
after crossing over RN 40 & a few Km before reaching Lago Cardiel. More precise
coordinates & directions provided by lodge. (02954) 454216,
www.Estancialagunaverde.com, info@Estancialagunaverde.com.
The Lodge is located beside the beautiful Laguna Verde (Green Lagoon), named f/its particularly
colorful waters. You’ll be just a cast away from fantastic rainbow trout fishing, w/average catches
of 2-4 Kilos. The Lodge is a typical “Estancia house” w/3 double bedrooms w/“en suite” baths,
accommodating only as many as 6 anglers per week. The Lodge offers Satellite & IP telephone &
free unlimited WiFi access. Electricity 24 hours a day (220 volt.), provided by wind generators w/fuel
generators as back up. Estancia Laguna Verde offers excellent cuisine, preparing typical Argentinean
food, including great Asados of the famous Patagonian lamb, & great wines.
2C
Estancia La Angostura
Gobernador Gregores, AR, RP 29, Km 91.5, (02962) 491501,
http://www.Estanciariocapitan.com.ar.
This Patagonian ranch located in the Chico River Valley, is surrounded by tulip groves. It was founded
by the Piñero-Kusanovic family during the colonization of this sector. 5 rooms w/private baths, &
camping f/a total capacity of 23 guests. There Camping area has hot water & baths. The Angostura
Estancia is 55 Km from Governor Gregores, along Route 40. It’s a “must-do” f/birdwatchers, home
to birds not often spotted, including the austral rail (rallus antarcticus) & the hooded grebe (podiceps
gallardoi).
2C
Estancia Los Granaderos
Gobernador Gregores, AR, RP 77 www.ealosgranaderos.com.ar,
info@ealosgranaderos.com.ar.
The Granaderos Estancia, located near the Chico River, was founded in 1916 during a time when
the high demand f/wool, driven by WWI, was creating a small gold rush of sorts, in the Estancias of
Patagonia. Guests can sleep in the ranch facilities; 1 double w/2 beds, 1 matrimonial & 1 triple. Each
equipped w/a spacious living room, terrace & bath.
2D
Estancia El Cóndor
Tres Lagos, AR, From the YPF, take RP 31 f/72 Km until you reach the top of Cerro Kach
Aike, veer left, turning onto RP 33. Travel another 48 Km; you’ll cross through various
gates of neighboring Estancias, following the shoreline of San Martin Lake. 011 (SAT)
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47658085 / 47080217, www.cielospatagonicos.com.
The Estancia has 2 doubles & 1 quad, all w/private baths. Typical meals are served, featuring homegrown vegetables from the greenhouse & meats from the Estancia.
2E
Albergue Patagonia
El Chaltén, AR, Av San Martín 493, (02962) 493019, www.patagoniahostel.com.ar,
patagoniahostel@yahoo.com.ar.
Located in the heart of Chaltén, on the main avenue, just 300 meters from the start of the trails of
Glacier National Park. (Doubles & matrimonials, w/o private baths AR $ 60/190; singles, doubles,
triples, $ 270/320/360; September - May). Member of Hosteling International. Everything you need
f/a comfortable stay, at affordable prices. They make great efforts to be sustainable & minimize
negative ecological impacts of hostel. Provide materials to inform guests how to reduce their impacts
during the amazing hiking the area has to offer. The Hostel has a fleet of Mountain Bike Zenith
available to rent so you can roam around the area, including Lake Viedma & Laguna/Lago del Desierto.
2E
B & B Nothofagus
El Chaltén, AR, Corner of Hensen & Riquelme, (02962) 493087,
www.nothofagusbb.com.ar, contacto@nothofagusbb.com.ar.
This quaint B & B (AR$190/200/280, s/d/tr October – April) offers 3 rooms w/private baths & 4 w/
shared baths. The house has central heating, individually controlled in each room. Full breakfast is
included w/lodging. The owners offer a book exchange, places to store equipment, a non-smoking
environment, & friendly service.
2E
Estancia La Quinta
El Chaltén, AR, Entrance to El Chaltén, RP 23, (02962) 493012,
www.Estancialaquinta.com.ar, info@Estancialaquinta.com.ar.
La Quinta Estancia offers comfortable rooms, a cozy atmosphere, & unique special touches like a
second floor living area w/panoramic views, where you can relax w/a good book from the Estancia’s
historical library of 1,000+ Patagonia-themed books. Check out the small exhibit of antiques &
memorabilia dedicated to Yerba Mate, in the breakfast nook. In the dining room located in the main
house of the Estancia, you can try local favorites including breads, pastas, jams, cakes, fine fruits &
cheeses, & meats from the Estancia. The owners offer a guided tour through the Estancia, filled w/
stories & history of the 100+ years their family has spent in this sector of the world. It’s a lot of fun
& filled w/fascinating tales of gauchos, explorers & adventurers.
2E
Hostería B & B Senderos
El Chaltén, AR, Perito Moreno, (02962) 493336, www.senderoshostería.com.ar,
info@senderoshostería.com.ar.
Senderos Hostería is the ideal place to live during your adventures in Patagonia.This hostería borrows
design inspiration from the 1920s in Patagonia, & combines w/modern hotel comfort. The Inn
offers guests 20 comfortable rooms & a Family Suite. They provide guests w/the following services:
American-style breakfast buffet, wine bar, study w/a log burning fireplace corner, reading room,
bilingual receptionists, room service, boxed lunches, laundry service, transfers in/out.
2E
Hostería Cóndor de Los Andes
El Chaltén, AR, cnr Río de las Vueltas & Halvor Halvorsen, (02962) 493101,
www.condordelosandes.com.
Cozy, quiet atmosphere, & excellent attention are why you should choose this hostería. Cóndor de
los Andes (double queen/double AR$90/310Week; October - April) services include: a fully equipped
kitchen f/guests, central heating, private baths, luggage storage, a laundry, living room w/fireplace,
personal safes, a library, breakfasts, boxed lunches, & dinners. Member of Hostelling International.
2E
Hostería Confín Patagónico
El Chaltén, AR, Av. Lago del Desierto 436, (02962) 493094,
www.elchalten.com/confinpatagonico, confinpat@gmail.com.
Enjoy the comfort of Hostería Confín Patagónico, w/4, fully equipped brand new rooms, each w/
private bath, & a warm friendly style, typical of Patagonian hospitality. You’ll be taken care of personally,
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by the owners, w/lots of special care. The tiny inn has a maximum capacity of 8 guests in 4 double
rooms, & a family atmosphere. During your visit, try some of the authentic flavors of Patagonian;
sample homemade sweets & cakes, served w/stories of life in El Chaltén.
2E
Hostería El Puma
El Chaltén, AR, Lionel Terray 212, (02962) 493095, www.hosteríaelpuma.com.ar,
info@hosteríaelpuma.com.ar.
Hostería El Puma is located in the village, at the convergence of the area’s trail heads, providing perfect
accommodations f/visitors who appreciate a relaxing & comfortable place to call home during their
stay. “Member of Ten Rivers & Ten Lakes Lodges & Boutique Hotels”.
2E
Hostería Koonek
El Chaltén, AR, Lionel Terray 415, (02962) 493304, www.hosteríakoonek.com.ar,
consultas@hosteríakoonek.com.ar.
Great service in an environment that lets you feel at home, taken care of, & able to relax after your
long trip or a hike. Inn (d/tr AR$280/320; October - May) is located meters away from the main
trekking trail accesses in town. Includes singles, doubles, triples, & quadruple rooms; all clean &
comfortable, w/private baths & central heating. Our inn has a living room w/satellite TV, WI-FI Service,
free continental breakfast each day, & laundry Service. The inn is managed by the owners.
2E
Hotel Los Cerros
El Chaltén, AR, Av San Martín 260, (02962) 493182, www.loscerrosdelchalten.com,
info@loscerrosdelchalten.com.
Hotel (s / d AR $ 1174/1384; November - April) offers 44 rooms, conveying a warm simplicity that
blends w/the environment. Each habitation boasts contemporary design & neutral tones, accentuating
the view outside the large windows. Restaurant offers a varied menu that surprises even the most
demanding gourmet.The kitchen combines the best flavors of the region & traditions of the pioneers
w/the innovations of new international cuisine.
2E
Posada Inlandsis
El Chaltén, AR, Lago del Desierto 480, (02962) 493276, www.inlandsis.com.ar,
inlandsis.patagonia@gmail.com.
Relax in this cozy inn w/8 double rooms & private baths (small/large d AR $ 210/280, October
- April). Enjoy the unique & breathtaking views of Fitz Roy & Torre & De las Vueltas River Valley.
Delicious breakfast featuring homemade products. Internet access w/separate terminal f/guests.
2E
Posada La Base
El Chaltén, AR, Calle 10, No 16, (02962) 493031, www.elchaltenpatagonia.com.ar.
6 rooms, (d/tr/q AR$320/360/400), w/garden access, private baths & shared kitchen, where you’ll find
the elements f/breakfast. Above reception area, there’s a loft w/satellite TV, DVDs, books & Internet
connection. Great choice f/travelers who enjoy self-service & making themselves at home.
2E
Posada Lunajuim
El Chaltén, AR, Trevisán 45, (02962) 493047, www.lunajuim.com, info@lunajuim.com.
Located downtown, Lunajuim (s/d/tr AR$574/701/838) offers views of Fitz Roy & Torre, proximity to
restaurants, shopping & trails + a great breakfast buffet & DIY boxed lunches. Casually elegant, w/a
lovely dining-living room, w/fireplace & library to make you feel at home. 26 comfortable doubles &
4 triples, private baths, central heating, in-room lock boxes, full comfort mattresses, Egyptian cotton
blankets (the essence of comfort & softness) & goose down quilts.
2E
Youth Hostel Rancho Grande
El Chaltén, AR, Av San Martín 724, (02962) 493092, www.ranchograndehostel.com,
ranchogrande@chaltentravel.com.
Mainstay f/youth groups & independent travelers (double queen/double/triple AR$70/270/290).
Quads & Sextuples w/shared baths, doubles w/private baths. Quads can also be reserved as triples.
Relax w/friends in big central lounge filled w/giant windows. Member of Hostelling International.
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2A
Cabaña at the Cueva de las Manos Estancia
Bajo Caracoles, AR, Cueva de las Manos, (011 SAT) / (02963) 52374043 / 432319,
www.cuevadelasmanos.net, cuevadelasmanos@hotmail.com.
Nice, clean cabaña f/6 people, carpeted, w/a private bath & heating. Guests have access to the living
room area & restaurant located in the Guest House.
2B
Cabañas Las Norias
Gobernador Gregores, Cañadón León 208, (02962) 491016, www.lasnorias.com.ar,
info@lasnorias.com.ar.
Comfortable accommodations & friendly service in a forested grove near Chico River. Crafted from
Lenga, native to Patagonia forests. Heated & fully equipped f/4 people w/great kitchens & views of the
park. Services include: cable TV, Wi-Fi & ample parking, a few meters from town’s center.
2B
Cabañas María Abril
Gobernador Gregores, AR, Av. Cañadón León 608, (02962) 491011, www.mariabril.com,
losluckysma@yahoo.com.ar.
4 fully equipped cabañas, f/2-5 people, each.
2D
Huentru Niyeu Cabañas
Tres Lagos, AR, General Valley, (02962) 495006, turco_nazer@hotmail.com.ar.
Cabañas,w/private baths, laundry service & boxed lunches.
2E
Cabañas Anita’s House
El Chaltén, AR, Av San Martín 249, (02962) 493288, www.anitashouse.com.ar,
info@anitashouse.com.ar.
Cluster of cabañas (2/3/4 persons, AR$380/400/450), perfectly located in the center of El Chaltén, just
200 m from the trails. Service provided by the owners, ensuring extra special care.
2E
Cabañas Aires del Fitz
El Chaltén, AR, Av Ricardo Arbilla 124, (02962) 493134, www.airesdelfitz.com.ar,
airesdelfitz@yahoo.com.ar
Cluster of cabañas with options for 2-3 persons or up to 6. Totally equipped with TV, DVD, hairdryers, daily cleaning service, and views of Fitz Roy.
2E
Cabañas El Relincho
El Chaltén, AR, Av San Martín 505, (02962) 493007, www.elrelinchopatagonia.com.ar.
Conveniently located on a large site close which includes a playground, grills, a multipurpose room &
breakfast area. Fully equipped f/4 to 6 people, w/2 bedrooms, kitchen & bath.
2E
Cabañas Inlandsis
El Chaltén, AR, Lago del Desierto 480, (02962) 493276, www.inlandsis.com.ar,
inlandsis.patagonia@gmail.com.
Cozy split level cabañas f/2/3/4 or 6 people (AR$400/430/460/530; October - April). Fully equipped
w/2 bedrooms, bathtubs, central heating, great kitchens, TV, DVD & Wi-Fi.
2E
Eco Camp, Fitz Roy Expeditions
El Chaltén, AR, 17 Km north of El Chaltén, (2494) / (02962) 496424 / 493178,
www.fitzroyexpediciones.com.ar, contact@fitzroyexpediciones.com.ar.
17 Km north of el Chaltén. This cozy timber lodge is built on the shore of the de Las Vueltas River,
w/unique views of Fitz Roy’s north face. Fabulous dining room, wrapping w/beautiful wood crafted
interior. 8 wilderness cabañas, each w/2 beds, wood burning stoves, & private decks. Separate bathing
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area offers hot showers. In between camping & a hotel. The restaurant offers a variety of regional
dishes & house specialty, grilled meats.
WHERE TO SLEEP – CAMPING
2A
Sleeping Shelter at the Cueva de las Manos Estancia
Bajo Caracoles, AR, Cueva de las Manos Sector, 011 (SAT) / (02963) 52374043 / 432319,
Sleeping shelter divided into 2 separate rooms; each w/shared bath. Each side accommodates 20
people. Guests have access to the living room area & restaurant located in the Guest House.
2B
Camping (Free) at the Information Center, Perito Moreno National Park
Gobernador Gregores, AR, Administration Sector, (02962), 491477,
www.parquesnacionales.gov.ar/parques/, peritomoreno@apn.gov.ar.
Free however, site is barren & exposed. Pit toilets, no shower facilities. Fires are not permitted.
2B
Camping El Rincón (Free), Perito Moreno National Park
Gobernador Gregores, AR, Sector El Rincón, (02962) 491477,
www.parquesnacionales.gov.ar/parques, peritomoreno@apn.gov.ar.
Free camping area, El Rincón Sector, at foot of Cerro Leon. Includes pit toilets (no shower) & stone
shelter wind breaks. Small Museum features history of area. Campfires prohibited; only camp stoves.
2B
Camping Lago Burmeister (Free), Perito Moreno National Park
Gobernador Gregores, AR, Sector Lago Burmeister, (02962) 491477,
www.parquesnacionales.gov.ar/parques/, peritomoreno@apn.gov.ar.
Free campgrounds at Lago Burmeister, 16 Km from information center, scenic & well sheltered sites
among dense Lenga forest & campfires allowed. No showers but there are pit toilets.
2B
Camping Municipal Nuestra Señora del Valle
Gobernador Gregores, AR, Corner of Roca & Chile, (02962) 491398,
gregoresturismo@yahoo.com.ar.
Municipal summer-only campground, free campsites, hot showers & grilling areas.
2B
Dormis María Abril
Gobernador Gregores, AR, Av. Cañadón León 608, (02962), www.mariabril.com,
losluckysma@yahoo.com.ar.
3 “dormis” which are private havens, where 2 people can sleep in a bed, protected from the weather,
w/heating (way, way, way better than camping!). The “dormis” have a shared bath & towels. They also
have a place f/breakfast, dining, & just “hanging around”, fully equipped f/cooking.
2D
Camping of Tres Lagos
Santa Cruz, Tres Lagos, AR, On the corner of Pte. Aramburu & Fausto Ballina, (02962)
495031.
Low cost (US$2.50/tent + US$1/vehicle) municipal camping. Electricity & hot showers (US$0.50).
2E
Camping Capri Lagoon (Free, Spaces Limited), Los Glaciares National Park
El Chaltén, AR, Sector Capri Lagoon, (02962), 493004,
www.parquesnacionales.gov.ar/parques.
Free Primitive Camping - No services. No fires. Camp only where permitted, do not cut/carve trees,
pitch tent 50+ m from water courses. Do not to leave any signs of your presence. Do not dig ditches
or litter. Campground has 1 pit toilet. Wash downstream from campground & pack out all trash.
Campsites accessible between September & May, depending on climatic conditions.
2E
Camping Confluencia (Free, Spaces Limited), Los Glaciares National Park
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El Chaltén, AR, Confluence of the Fitz Roy & De Las Vueltas Rivers, (02962) 493004,
2E
Camping El Blanco River (Free, Climbers-only, Spaces Limited), Los Glaciares National Park
El Chaltén, AR, Blanco River Sector, (02962) 493004,
Free Primitive Climber-Only Camping - No services. No fires. Camp only where permitted, do not
cut/carve trees, pitch tent 50+ m from water courses. Do not to leave any signs of your presence.
Do not dig ditches or litter. Campground has 1 pit toilet. Wash downstream from campground &
pack out all trash. Campsites accessible between September & May, depending on climatic conditions.
2E
Camping El Refugio
El Chaltén, AR, Calle 3, (02962) 493221.
Private campground (per person AR$25, double matrimonial AR$50) w/simple sleeping refuge within
walking distance of downtown El Chaltén. Next to the De Las Vueltas River, an easy spot to enjoy
the beauty of Patagonia on a budget, w/grassy areas, trees, & views of the mountains. Hot showers
& BBQ pits are provided f/campers. Most sites are exposed & there is sparse firewood (fires OK).
2E
Camping El Relincho
Enjoy nature in the heart of El Chaltén. Meters from De las Vueltas River, in site w/native trees that
provide shelter & BBQ areas equipped w/fireplaces & / or grills, spaces f/trailers & tents.
2E
Camping Madsen (Free, Spaces Limited) - Los Glaciares National Park
El Chaltén, AR, Northern Limit of town, (02962) 493004,
2E
Camping Poincenot (Free, Spaces Limited), Los Glaciares National Park
El Chaltén, AR, Sector Poincenot, (02962) 493004,
2A
Restaurant at the Cueva de las Manos Estancia
Serving breakfast, lunch, dinner, coffee & bar services. Voted “the best breakfast in Argentina!”
2B
Restaurant Cañadón León
Gobernador Gregores, AR, Roca 397, (02962) 491082, gregoresturismo@yahoo.com.ar.
Regional specialties & local atmosphere. Check to see if they are serving Gnocchi, a popular local dish.
2B
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Restaurant El Criollo
Gobernador Gregores, AR, 12 De Octubre 525, (02962) 491210.
Pleasant atmosphere, grilled local meats, pastas, beef sausage, milanesas, & other dishes from Patagonia.
2D
Restaurant Ahonikenk
Tres Lagos, AR, Downtown area.
Regional specialties & local atmosphere. Helpful information about town, lodging & things to do.
2E
Café & Ice Cream Domo Blanco
El Chaltén, AR, Av. San Martín 164, (02962) 493368, www.domoblancoheladeria.com.ar.
The first artisan ice creams manufactured in El Chaltén. Made w/fresh & natural products, (local as
often as possible). The best thing going in southern Patagonia! Also serve sandwiches, crepes, boxed
lunches, coffees, teas & tempting baked goods. Definitely worth a visit!
2E
Café Del Bosque
El Chaltén, AR, San Martin 99, (02962) 493093.
Cafe in the center of El Chaltén w/sandwiches, cakes, alfajores y waffles.
2E
Café La Lucinda
El Chaltén, AR, Av San Martín 175, (02962), 493202,
www.facebook.com/lalucinda.lucinda, lateretorres1@hotmail.com.
This artsy, sky-blue cafe is friendly & almost always open & breakfast is served too! In the words of
the founder, “I thought of a warm & friendly atmosphere in which to rest, listen to good music, drink
coffee, read stories & travel accounts. A place to do what I like: look at the landscape, paint a picture,
eat something delicious & tie a fly.” Homemade soups & stews, hot sandwiches (including good
vegetarian options) & a selection of coffees, teas & wine.
2E
Café La Waflería
El Chaltén, AR, Av San Martin 640, (02962) 493093.
Customers rave over both the waffles, which come in a mind boggling variety of forms & flavors, &
the sandwiches at La Wafleria. This El Chaltén must-taste is great before & after days on the trail.
2E
Chocolate Shop & Café Josh Aike
El Chaltén, AR, Av. Lago del Desierto 107, (02962) 493008, www.elchalten.com/lachoco,
chococasqui@yahoo.com.ar.
You will find this chocolate shop overflowing w/the finest artisan chocolate bars, candied fruits,
alfajores & cakes, like your grandmother would make. All other sorts of richness that will turn a bad
weather day into a wonderful day! They also serve delicious pizzas & fondue (cheese or chocolate)!
2E
Pub & Music Zafarrancho
El Chaltén, AR, Lionel Terray 330, behind Rancho Grande Hostel, (02962) 493022,
www.guiachalten.com.ar/zafarrancho.
Located 20 m from Hostel Rancho Grande, Zafarrancho offers great local cuisine & superb homemade pasta in a cozy atmosphere. Tuesdays, Thursdays & Saturdays, the latest films are shown in
their theater. Also indulge in their delicious home-made cakes, served w/tea, coffee or hot chocolate.
Quality wines & varied drinks complete the tempting offer.
3E
Restaurant & Pub El Muro
El Chaltén, AR, Av. San Martin 912, (02962) 493248, elchalten_elmuro@hotmail.com.
Inviting indoor & outdoor restaurant/bar serving homemade pastas, pizzas, grilled lamb, home-made
beers & boutique wines. Music. Climbing wall to practice on before you try the beer.
2E
Restaurant & Pub Estepa
El Chaltén, AR, Corner of Cerro Solo & Antonio Rojo, (02962) 493069,
esteparestobar@hotmail.com, esteparestopar@yahoo.es.
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Local favorite; flavorful dishes like Lamb w/Calafate Sauce, Trout Ravioli & Spinach Crepes.
2E
Restaurant & Pub La Cerveceria
El Chaltén, AR, Av. San Martin 564, (02962) 493109, www.elchalten.com/cerveceria,
manudelrio@gmail.com.
2 traditional beers, a dark, turbid bock & a blond pilsner. Both brews, follow traditional recipes from
the Bohemian Region of Czechoslovakia, free of additives & preservatives & served from barrels in
which they are aged. Warm, rustic setting filled w/great music. Attended by the owners. Specialties
including Locro, a traditional stew, empanadas, pizzas, sandwiches & dessert pies in a variety of flavors.
If you find yourself w/the inspiration, guitars & traditional drums are always available to be played.
2E
Restaurant & Pub La Tapera
El Chaltén, AR, Corner of Antonio Rojo & Cabo García, (02962) 493195.
Mountain lodge setting w/varied menu. Specialties include tapas, soups & unique twists on regional
traditions like Wild Mushroom Gnocchi & Lamb Ravioli. Several creative & delicious vegetarian
offerings. Great local beers & Argentinean wines. Personal attention from beginning to end.
2E
Restaurant Como Vaca Parrilla
El Chaltén, AR, Lago del Desierto 410, (02962) 493086.
The majority of visitors to Como Vaca Parilla report having eaten 1 of the best steaks of their travels.
Grilled steaks are the specialty at this restaurant which also offers grilled chicken & lamb, enormous
salads, Provençal french fries, homemade pastas & soups. The wines are a value.
2E
Restaurant Fonda Ahonikenk
El Chaltén, AR, Av. M. Güemes, (02962) 493070.
Daily menu w/entree & drink. Good collection of Argentine wines. Reasonable prices.
2E
Restaurant Fuegia Bistro
El Chaltén, AR, Av. San Martin 342, (02962) 493243, fuegiabisto@yahoo.com.ar.
Favored f/a warm ambiance & savory main dishes, this upscale eatery has veggie options & a
reasonable wine list. Try Pasta w/Ricotta, Spinach & Fresh Mushrooms, or Trout w/Lemon.
2E
Restaurant La Casita
Located in a house & the family serves you in their large living/dining room. The chef & hostess
provides excellent regional dishes including pastas, lasagnas, empanadas, milanesas & much more.
According to her own accounts, she gets up very early every day to cook these delicious plates so as
to delight her hungry guests. Prices are reasonable & the quality is very good. Do not pass this one by!
2E
Restaurant Mi Viejo Parilla
El Chaltén, AR, San Martin 780, (02962) 493123.
Grill & restaurant a la carte. Lamb, roast meat, trout, pasta, fast food & a great selection of the best
Argentine wines. Run by the owners.
2E
Restaurant Patagonicus
El Chaltén, AR, Bv. Güemes 54, (02962) 493025, horaciocodo@yahoo.com.ar.
The best pizza in town, w/20 kinds of pie, salads & wine served at sturdy wood tables surrounded by
huge picture windows. Cakes & coffee are also worth trying.
2E
Restaurant Ruca Mahuida
El Chaltén, AR, 55 Lionel Terray, (02962) 493018, www.altamontpatagonia.com/ruca,
rucamahuida@altamontpatagonia.com.
Innovative recipes elaborated by passionate chefs using heritage South American & local ingredients,
are what they describe as their local Patagonian gastronomy. Recommended as 1 of the best options
in El Chaltén, w/a creative menu & fine selection of excellent Argentinean wines in a cozy atmosphere.
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Dedicated staff will make you feel at home. Open from late October through March.
2B
Supermarket El Changuito
A visit to the Changuito Supermarket provides a contrast to chain stores & a look into daily life in
small towns of Patagonian Argentina. Check out their cheeses & cold cuts, as well as fresh breads.
2B
Supermarket La Anónima
Gobernador Gregores, AR, San Martin 680, (02962) 491073 / 491100,
www.laanonima.com.ar.
A visit provides you w/the opportunity to stock up on provisions at reasonable prices & to see a
typical Argentine Supermarket. This national chain has over 122 stores in 69 cities & is woven into
the fabric of most residents’ lives. The Anónima in Gobernador Gregores offers dry goods, beverages,
wine & beer, delicatessen w/cheeses & meats, fresh vegetables & fruits, a bakery, butcher’s shop, etc.
You can also find personal care items & even a thermos, bombilla & calabaza f/drinking yerba mate.
Open daily, 09h00 – 13h30 & afternoons from 17h00 – 21h30.
2E
Supermarket El Gringuito
El Chaltén, AR, Cerro Solo 108, (02962) 493065.
coffee, tea, yerba mate & a limited variety of vegetables & fruits.
2E
Supermarket El Súper
El Chaltén, AR, Corner of Güemes & Lago del Desierto, (02962) 493039.
2E
Supermarket La Tostadora Moderna
El Chaltén, AR, Corner of Av. San Martín 36 & Av. Lago del Desierto, (02962) 493174.
GASTRONOMY - BAKERIES (PANADERIAS)
2E
Panadería La Nieve
El Chaltén, AR, Güemes, (02962) 493035.
Facturas & breads, baked goods, coffee, tea, chocolates, sandwiches, drinks. Boxed lunches.
2E
Panadería Los Saltenos
El Chaltén, AR, Av. San Martin 948.
2E
Panadería Que rika
El Chaltén AR, Güemes 120, (02962) 493107.
2E
Panadería Que rika (2nd Location)
2E
Panadería & Confiteria Lo de Haydee
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El Chaltén, AR, Lago del Desierto 250, (02962) 493272.
GASTRONOMY – TO GO
2D
YPF Gas Station
Tres Lagos, AR, National Route (RN) 40 - 3Kms from Tres Lagos, (02962) 495031.
Very good fresh-baked empanadas & other snacks are available at this YPF station.
2E
Domo Blanco Ice Cream & Café
El Chaltén, AR, Av. San Martín 164, (02962) 493368, www.domoblancoheladeria.com.ar.
First artisan ice creams manufactured in El Chaltén. Made w/fresh & natural products, (local as often
as possible), these ice creams are the best thing going in southern Patagonia. Domo Blanco also
serves sandwiches, crepes, boxed lunches & a variety of coffees, teas & tempting baked goods.
2E
Nipo Nino Rotisserie & Food to Go
El Chaltén, AR, Avenida San Martin 872, (02962), 493100, niponinofood@gmail.com.
Take-out, boxed lunches, & rotisserie offering authentic Patagonia tastes & culinary knowledge.
Famous f/empanadas in a variety of flavors like beef, chicken, vegetables & ham & cheese. Other
specialties include beef milanesas & chicken supreme sandwiches, pastas & lasagna, gnocchi, dumplings
& noodles, pizzas & traditional dishes, like locro, lentil stew, & soups. All homemade using family recipes.
2A
Cueva de las Manos Estancia Tours
18 Km journey (4x4 vehicle or horseback), & hiking through Canyon (2½ Km) to Cueva de las Manos.
Other tours: Charcamata Overhang Petroglyphs, (60 Km 4X4, Horses, Hiking), Laguna Honda (80
Km, 4X4, Hiking) Cave of the Condors (50 Km, 4X4, Horses, Hiking). Tours include SUV, transport,
bilingual guide, explanation of landscapes & archeology & boxed lunch.
2A
GuanaCondor Tours
Perito Moreno, AR, Perito Moreno 1087, (02963) 432303, jarinauta@yahoo.com.ar.
Guided excursions to the Cueva de las Manos, w/hike through Canyon to access Site. Great twist!
Stop by their offices in Perito Moreno, (Mondays, Wednesdays, Saturdays:10h00 - 12h00 & 16h00 20h00; Sundays: 17h00 - 20h00). The price is approximately AR$250 per person.
2A
Alta Montaña
El Chaltén, AR, 104 Lionel Terray, (02962) 493018, www.altamontpatagonia.com,
info@altamontpatagonia.com.
Enthusiastic commitment to mountaineering & skiing, love f/nature, & lifetime exploring Patagonia, the
Andes & the endless diversity of spectacular landscapes in Argentina & Chile.
2A
Casa de Guías
El Chaltén, AR, San Martín Ave, (02962) 493118, www.casadeguias.com.ar,
info@casadeguias.com.ar.
Specialized in Trekking & Mountaineering, authorized Tour Operator f/Los Glaciares National Park.
Offer selection of itineraries f/day trekking, multi-day campsite to campsite trekking, backcountry
expeditions, mountaineering, rock & ice climbing, & a range of other activities.
2E
El Chaltén Mountain Guides
El Chaltén, AR, 218 San Martín Ave, (02962) 493329, www.ecmg.com.ar,
info@ecmg.com.ar.
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Main activities include continental ice cap traverse, ice climbing & rock climbing seminars, glacier
management & crevasse rescue courses, & ascents of Guillaumet Needle, Cerro Gorra Blanca, &
Cerro Solo. Offer backcountry skiing, intro mountaineering courses & hiking.
2E
Fitz Roy Expeditions
El Chaltén, AR, 56 San Martín Ave, (02962) 496424 / 493178,
www.fitzroyexpediciones.com.ar, contact@fitzroyexpediciones.com.ar.
Operating the best trekking programs in southern Patagonia since 1985. Always looking f/new
itineraries, unique expeditions, little known spots, etc, in constant quest to offer the highest quality
outdoor activities in the area, e.g., their Ice Field Expeditions, running w/great success f/years.
2E
El Chaltén, AR, State highway 23, 17 Km north of El Chaltén, (011 SAT) 41525300,
www.loshuemules.com, info@loshuemules.com.
Located 17 Km beyond El Chaltén, just after the Electrico River. 5,500 hectares, mountains, glaciers,
beech & ñire forests, rivers, lakes, lagoons & wetlands. 25 Km of marked trails; a quiet alternative to
National Park. Stop by Visitor Center to learn about fauna, flora, topography, climate & accounts of the
first explorations, the early inhabitants & pioneers of the area. (AR $ 50 entry)
2E
Mountaineering Patagonia
El Chaltén, AR, 16 San Martín (02962) 493194, www.mount-patagonia.com.ar.
An official service provider f/the Los Glaciares National Park, specializing in mountain excursions &
adventure tourism. Diverse activities offered w/high quality service. Specialized guides that adapt their
skills & styles to each type of excursion & group, w/an emphasis on personalized service.
2E
NYCA
El Chaltén, AR, Cabo García 122, (02962) 493185, www.nyca.com.ar, billy@nyca.com.ar.
NYCA offers a range of extreme activities w/maximum safety & fun. Adventures include climbing
tours & trekking in the mountains, the Southern Ice Field & the glaciers.
2E
Oscar Pandolfi Expeditions
El Chaltén, AR, Av. Santa Cruz, (02962), 493043, oscarpandolfi@infovia.com.ar.
Have worked w/more than 4,000 trekkers around the world. Standard & custom packages, group
& individual rates, day trips, travel arrangements & just plain advice (free!). Contact them f/details!
2E
Patagonia Aventura
El Chaltén, AR, 56 San Martín, (02962) 493110, www.patagonia-aventura.com.
The Viedma Glacier is the second largest in Patagonia & one of the few w/easy access f/visitors. This
full day multisport Glacier & Lake Excursion offers a catamaran trip, hiking, & ice trekking.
2E
Patagonia Hikes Excursions & Expeditions
El Chaltén, AR, 250 Lago Del Desierto Ave, (02962) 493359, www.patagoniahikes.com.
Official Mountain Guide Company f/Los Glaciares National Park w/programs & itineraries f/all levels
of experience. Full & multi-day treks, ice-climbing & rock-climbing schools, expeditions across the
Southern Ice Field & Ascents.
2E
Patagonia Mágica
El Chaltén, AR, Fonrouge, (02944) 486261, www.patagoniamagica.com,
info@patagoniamagica.com.
Mountain expeditions, logistics, guided mountaineering ascents, trekking & hiking trips, rock & ice
climbing workshops, touring & backcountry ski excursions & expeditions in the Andes & volcanoes.
Guides are AAGM (Argentine Mountain Guide Association) certified & licensed to work in the
National Park.
2E
Serac Expeditions
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El Chaltén, AR, 175 San Martín Ave, (02962) 493371, www.serac.com.ar,
info@serac.com.ar.
Serac Expeditions offers adventure programs in mountain environments. Ten years+ experience &
focused, values-based approach, based on Commitment, Quality Services & Safety.
2E
Walk Patagonia Expeditions & Excursions
El Chaltén, AR, 62 Antonio Rojo Ave. N°2, (02962) 493275, www.walkpatagonia.com,
info@walkpatagonia.com.
Discover Patagonia through all 5 senses! This Glaciares National Park trekking service provider offers
various trekking options f/discovering glaciers, lagoons & mountains w/specialized Mountain Guides. If
you are seeking something a bit more extreme, try their amazing expedition to 1 of the most remote
areas in the world, the Southern Patagonia Ice Field. Prepare f/the trek of a lifetime!
2E
NYCA
El Chaltén, AR, Cabo García 122, (02962) 493185, www.nyca.com.ar, billy@nyca.com.ar.
NYCA offers a range of extreme activities w/maximum safety & fun. Adventures include kayak &
rafting on the area’s many rivers.
2E
Patagonia Aventura
El Chaltén, AR, 56 Av. San Martín, (02962) 493110, www.patagonia-aventura.com.ar,
reservas@patagonia-aventura.com.
The Viedma Lake & Glacier Multisport Excursion includes a catamaran trip, hiking, & ice trekking to
the second largest Glacier in Patagonia, 1 of the few w/easy access f/visitors.
2E
Serac Expeditions
El Chaltén, AR, 175 San Martín Ave, (02962) 493371, www.serac.com.ar,
info@serac.com.ar.
Offer kayaking activities in the area surrounding El Chaltén, w/over ten years’ experience & an
approach based on our values: Commitment, Quality Services & Safety.
2A
Bajo Caracoles, AR, Cueva de las Manos Sector, (011 SAT) / (02963), 52374043 / 432319,
Overland tour from the Estancia to the Roballos Frontier & the Los Antiguos Sector (360 Km, 4x4).
Tours include SUV, transport, bilingual guide, explanation of landscapes & archeology & boxed lunch.
2C
Los Granaderos Estancia Heritage Tour, A Rebellious Patagonia: Evolution of
Human Rights in Patagonia Argentina
Gobernador Gregores, AR, Chico River - RP 77, www.ealosgranaderos.com.ar,
Full day 160 Km overland tour crossing the Steppe. Rare chance to get off the main roads & learn
about how life has evolved in this sparse, rugged land. Optional side trip to Petrified Forest. Theme:
Exploring the historic struggle f/human rights fought by workers on the s of Patagonian Argentina.
Arrange through the , Municipal Museum or Tourism Office of Governor Gregores.
2E
Alta Montaña
El Chaltén, AR, 104 Lionel Terray, (02962) 493018, ww.altamontpatagonia.com,
info@altamontpatagonia.com.
ALTA MONTAÑA was born as a result of enthusiastic commitment to mountaineering & skiing, a love
f/nature, & a lifetime exploring Patagonia, the Andes & the endless diversity of spectacular landscapes
166
in Argentina & Chile. This travel agency provide inbound services & destination management f/
specialized agencies & independent travelers, w/focus on tailor-made trips to the most remote & best
hidden places of the Andes, Argentina & Chile. Highly qualified personnel & agreements w/excellent
providers are the base f/outstanding travel services in all their destinations & cities.
2A
Bajo Caracoles, AR, Cueva de las Manos Sector, (011 SAT) / (02963) 52374043 / 432319,
www.cuevadelasmanos.net.
18 Km journey (4x4 vehicle or horseback), & hiking through Canyon (2½ Km) to Cueva de las Manos.
Other tours: Charcamata Overhang Petroglyphs, (60 Km 4X4, Horses, Hiking), Laguna Honda (80 Km,
4X4, Hiking) Cave of the Condors (50 Km, 4X4, Horses, Hiking) & Paso Roballos - Los Antiguos
Sector (360 Km, 4x4). Tours include SUV, transport, bilingual guide, explanation of landscapes &
archeology & boxed lunch.
2A
GuanaCondor Tours
Perito Moreno, AR, Perito Moreno 1087, (02963) 432303, jarinauta@yahoo.com.ar.
Guided excursions to the Cueva de las Manos (AR$250), departing from Perito Moreno. Visit to
Estancia Cueva de las Manos, Canyon hike to access Site. A unique twist! Offices in Perito Moreno,
(Mondays, Wednesdays, Saturdays:10h00 - 12h00 & 16h00 - 20h00; Sundays: 17h00 - 20h00).
2A
Hugo Campañoli
Perito Moreno, AR, Perito Moreno, AR, (02963) 432336.
Perito Moreno based local guide who takes groups of 3+ to Cueva de las Manos on day trips.
2A
La Cueva de las Manos
Bajo Caracoles, AR, Cañadón Rio Pinturas.
Visit Tehuelche petroglyphs at the Cueva de las Manos (Cave of the Hands), UNESCO World
Heritage Site, in the Pinturas River Canyon. Site contains an impressive collection of petroglyphs,
painted between 1,300 & 9,500 years ago (AR$50; 09h00-19h00).
2A
Zoyen Travel
Perito Moreno, AR, Peron 1008, (02963) 432207, zoyenturismo@yahoo.com.ar.
Good local travel agency w/trips to Cueva de las Manos in high season.
2C
Los Granaderos Estancia Heritage Tour, A Rebellious Patagonia: Evolution of
Human Rights in Patagonia Argentina
Gobernador Gregores, AR. Chico River - RP 77, www.ealosgranaderos.com.ar,
Full day 160 Km heritage tour exploring the historic struggle f/human rights fought by workers on the
Estancias of Patagonian Argentina. Rare chance to get off the main roads & learn about how life has
evolved in this sparse, rugged land. Travel w/local guides to now-abandoned Estancias, providing you
w/an “insider’s” view of the events of the Strike of 1921, which resulted in great tragedy, memorialized
through this fascinating journey. Optional side trip to Petrified Forest. Arrange through the Estancia,
Municipal Museum or Tourism Office of Governor Gregores.
2D
Hotel de Campo Piedra Clavada
Tres Lagos, AR, RN 288, (01115) 52599358, www.chacrapiedraclavada.com.ar,
cdi@cotecal.com.ar.
Along RN 288, 4 kilometers to the northeast of the Chalía River, crossing the bridge, you will come
across a unique natural monument, a huge stone, which seems hammered in the ground at the foot
of the cliff wall.The Piedra Clavada forms a curious backdrop f/the Historic “Wool Route” hotel which
shares its name.
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2E
La Quinta Estancia
El Chaltén, AR, Entrance to El Chaltén - RP 23, (02962) 493012,
www.Estancialaquinta.com.ar, info@Estancialaquinta.com.ar.
In the Estancia’s second floor living area, you can sit & relax w/a good book from their historical
library of1000+ Patagonia themed books or simply enjoy panoramic views. Check out the small
exhibit of antiques & memorabilia dedicated to Yerba Mate in the breakfast nook of the hotel. Main
House dining room offers local favorites including breads, pastas, jams, cakes, fine fruits & cheeses, &
meats from the Estancia. Guided tour by owners, filled w/stories & history of the 100+ years their
family has spent in this sector of the world. Fascinating tales of gauchos, explorers & adventurers.
2E
El Relincho Estancia Visits & Horseback Riding
In addition to horseback riding & hiking, visitors have the possibility to visit Estancia & take part in
rural activities like herding sheep, confining them in the corrals, working w/horses, learning about the
importance of dogs in farm work, sheep shearing, sharing mate w/tortas fritas & even a delicious
Patagonian Asado al Palo. Activities led or demonstrated by members of the family. Stay the night,
enjoying the sounds of nature & the silence of the countryside. An unforgettable experience.
2E
http://www.loshuemules.com, info@loshuemules.com.
just after the Electrico River. Stop by the visitor center to learn about the first explorations of this
area, w/accounts of the early inhabitants & pioneers.
2C
La Angostura Estancia, Bird Watching
Gobernador Gregores, AR, RP 29, Km 91.5, (02962) 491501,
www.Estanciariocapitan.com.ar.
Authentic & rustic Patagonian Estancia located in the wide valley of the Chico River, surrounded
by tulip groves. A “must-do” f/birdwatchers, w/habitat f/rarely sighted birds, including the austral rail
(rallus antarcticus) & the hooded grebe (podiceps gallardoi), among others. You can observe birds in
sites only meters from the main house!
2E
http://www.loshuemules.com, info@loshuemules.com.
just after the Electrico River. 5,500 hectares w/diverse natural environments; mountains, glaciers,
beech & ñire forests, rivers, lakes, lagoons & wetlands. 25 Km of marked trails provide a quiet
alternative to the neighboring National Park. Stop by the Visitor Center to learn about native fauna,
like the huemul (hippocamelus bisulcus), flora, topography & climate of the region.
THINGS TO DO – HORSEBACK
2A
Bajo Caracoles, AR, Cueva de las Manos Sector, (011 SAT) / (02963) 52374043 / 432319,
Cueva de las Manos Tour includes 18 Km horseback trip & hiking through the Canyon (2½ Km).
Tours to the Charcamata Overhang Petroglyphs (60 Km, 4X4, Horses, Hiking), the Cave of the
Condors (50Km , 4X4, Horses, Hiking) Tours include SUV, transport, bilingual guide, explanation of
landscapes & archeology & boxed lunch.
2E
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El Relincho Estancia Visits & Horseback Riding
Estancia visit w/horseback riding & possibility to take part in rural activities like herding sheep,
confining them in the corrals, working w/horses, learning about the importance of dogs in farm work,
sheep shearing, sharing mate w/tortas fritas & even a delicious Patagonian Asado.
2C
Estancia Laguna Verde Fly-fishing
Gobernador Gregores, AR, Located 115 Km from Gobernador Gregores. Southwest on
RP 29, you’ll take an Estancia road to the right, a few Km after crossing over RN, a few
Km before reaching Cardiel Lake. Lodge can provide precise coordinates & directions.
(02954) 454216, www.Estancialagunaverde.com, info@Estancialagunaverde.com.
Internationally renowned Strobel Lake, aka Jurassic Lake, is a 65 Km² lake w/crystal clear waters of
extraordinary biological characteristics & conditions that allow amazing growth of trout. Possibly the
best wild rainbow trout fishery in the world. Estancia Laguna Verde, located on the south coast of
this incredible lake, offers fishermen the chance to experience wild Patagonia at its best, surrounded
by beautiful untouched landscapes & unparalleled flora & fauna. You’ll have the opportunity to battle
against huge, strong fish & the comfort of an exclusive lodge, unique in the Strobel Sector.
2E
Chaltén Fishing
El Chaltén, AR, Av Antonio Rojo 88, (02962), www.chaltenfishing.com.ar.
In the word of guides at Chaltén Fishing, “We love nature & the surroundings of El Chaltén, our
adopted home. To us, fishing is an activity that permits relaxing & immersing yourself in the beauty
of natural places like Patagonian Argentina”. These specialized fly-fishing guides, committed to caring
f/the amazing natural environment in which they live & work, offer ½ day trips to Laguna/Lago del
Desierto or full-day excursions that include a few hours at Larga Lagoon. Equipment is provided; call
f/current rates & information on fishing licenses.
THINGS TO DO – SPA & RELAXATION
2E
KouSeki, Mountain Spa
El Chaltén, AR, Cerro Solo 136, 2-story wooden house, corner w/St. N°10.
www.kou-seki.com.ar, laura@kou-seki.com.ar or kouseki.laura@gmail.com.
The trails surrounding El Chaltén invite your entire being to absorb the immensity of the mountains
& glaciers. KouSeki Mountain Spa invites you to relax after the trails, adding another dimension to
your experience in Patagonia. They provide the space f/you to connect w/what your body has
absorbed from the landscape & channel that energy, enhancing your experience. They offer a variety
of therapeutic & relaxing massages, complemented by Thai herbal sauna & steaming compresses.
2E
Los Cerros Spa
El Chaltén, AR, San Martín 260, (02962), 493182, www.loscerrosdelchalten.com,
info@loscerrosdelchalten.com.
There is a small spa in the Hotel Los Cerros, w/a sauna & whirlpool facilities, as well as massage
services (very welcome after a long day of walking!)
2E
Serac Expeditions
El Chaltén, AR, 175 San Martín Ave, (02962) 493371,
www.serac.com.ar, info@serac.com.ar.
Serac Expeditions offers adventure programs in mountain environments. Ten years+ experience &
focused, values-based approach, based on Commitment, Quality Services & Safety. If your favorite
activity is mountain biking, they’re the company to call.
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Adolfo Segundo Guinao
CHAPTER 4
TRAVERSE THE ANDES TO
THE ICE FIELDS
STAGE 3
LIST OF ARTICLES
CHAPTER 4:: STAGE 3 - Traverse the Andes to the Ice Fields.
173
Traverse the Andes to the Ice Fields.
178
Trekking the shores of Laguna/Lago del Desierto in route to Chile.
180
Cruise O’Higgins/San Martin Lake to the O’Higgins Glacier.
181
Raise your glass and celebrate reaching the heart of Patagonia!
184
Hike to the Overlook of Cerro Santiago.
185
Day Hike to the Mosco River Glacier.
187
Answers to your questions about the science of ICE.
191
Taste traditions that stand the test of time.
192
Prepare Patagonian-style tortas fritas and Chilean pebre on your own.
194
Join the elite few who have biked the Carretera Austral of Chile.
196
Inform yourself about the Bird Lifezones in the Circuit.
198
Calling the curious! It’s time to break out those binoculars.
200
Rise to the challenge with these bird watching basics.
202
Enter Father Antonio Ronchi’s world where
anything is possible and everyone pitches in.
204
Ride along with Father Ronchi.
Evelyn Pfeiffer
172
CHAPTER 4: Stage 3 - Traverse the Andes to the Ice Fields.
The third Stage of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit (123.5 Km) is the
shortest of the four Stages; however, it offer a variety of adventures.There
are no roads through this Stage of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit. If you
are using a rental or private vehicle, make advance plans to send it around
to Villa O’Higgins using one of the professional drivers or logistics services
mentioned in the Service Directory of www.UndiscoveredPatagonia.com.
During the three Sections of this Stage
you will complete a back country border
crossing that offers a combination of biking,
hiking, boat rides, 4x4s and horses; plus, a
visit to glaciers originating in the Southern
Patagonian Ice Fields. It’s a one-of-a-kind
experience! While roads haven’t reached
this Stage of the Undiscovered Patagonia
Circuit, hundreds of travelers cross the
Andes between El Chaltén and Candelario
Mansilla each year. They tell us it is one
of the most unique and incredible travel
adventures ever!
This article describes the route and each of
173
the three Sections of this Stage. The highlight
of this Stage is the unique experience of
crossing the border between Argentina
and Chile, in the back country sectors of
Laguna/Lago (Lagoon/Lake) del Desierto in
Argentina and Candelario Mansilla, in Chile.
The crossing can easily be made in two
days and will involve an agenda based on
pure nature. You’ll be assisted by a short
bus transfer, one or two ferries, incredible
trekking or horseback riding, and, if the
stars align, even a ride in the back of an old
pick-up truck! All while immersed amongst
the native forests of the Andes, with their
hanging glaciers sending pristine streams
down into turquoise lagoons that feed into
the enormous bi-national lake, O’HigginsSan Martin. This profound body of water
has been measured with depths reaching
836 meters, making it the deepest in the
Americas and fifth deepest in the world.
Currently, there is not an option
for crossing from El Chaltén,
AR, to Villa O’Higgins, CH, with
vehicles. If you are in a private vehicle
and wish to complete Stage 3 of the
Circuit, you will need to arrange a driver to
bring your vehicle from El Chaltén to Villa
O’Higgins. It is also important to plan this
Stage of the circuit in accordance with the
Ferry schedules of the L/M Quetru which
will provide your passage across O’Higgins
- San Martin Lake. When operating, there is
a small ferry that runs the length of Laguna/
Lago del Desierto. When not, a beautiful
trail crosses the 17 Km span, rewarding
Evelyn Pfeiffer
adventurers with views of the lake shore
and the El Huemul Glacier. Check about
the ferry status in El Chaltén so you can
prepare.
You will cross O’Higgins/San Martin Lake via
the L/M. Quetru, a modern, fully-equipped
boat, with seating for 70 passengers. The
boat has a predefined schedule for the trip
from Candelario Mansilla to Villa O’Higgins,
which it maintains without fail, provided the
weather conditions permit. Refer to the
Service Directory for their website, where,
you can obtain the latest schedule and
reserve your passage.
Evelyn Pfeiffer
174
Section 3A: El Chaltén - Northern Shore of
Laguna/Lago del Desierto (44.6 Km).
Section 3A begins with a farewell to El
Chaltén, as you take gravel roads 34 Km
north to the south shore docks for Laguna/
Lago del Desierto. You can contract a
transfer service in El Chaltén. If you are
biking the route, plan this ride as a day trip
and camp along the shore, beginning your
crossing the following day. The final 10.4
Km of Section 3A are via ferry or trail.
The trail follows the shores of the western
side of the lake and is suitable for hiking or
mountain bikes. Distance bikers may have
trouble riding this section with all their gear
on bikes. Prepare to remove pedals and
push in some sections.
the Tourism Information Office in El Chaltén.
If the ferry is operating and you want to
take this option, make your reservations
in advance. You will find plenty of great
options for back-country camping, or press
on to the next Section of this Stage.
NOTES
When operating, the ferry, El Huemul,
crosses Laguna/Lake del Desierto, providing
transport via a 45 minute ride and will
porter bikes. There is a fee for the crossing.
Check for details and status of the boat in
175
Section 3B: Northern Shore of Laguna/Lago del
Desierto - Candelario Mansilla (20.5 Km).
Section 3B begins with border crossing
transactions in the post of the Gendarme in
Argentina. After receiving the green light for
crossing into Chile, you’ll hike along a singletrack trail that leads uphill for 5 Km, winding
through dense forest, until the path opens
up into a single lane, 4x4 track. On days that
the L/M. Quetru is running, there is a 4x4
truck that shuttles visitors the remaining 16
Km to Candelario Mansilla, for a small fee.
Bikers, and those willing to make the hike,
will follow the gravel road directly north.
The hike is mainly downhill leading towards
O’Higgins Lake, ending at the Chilean border
station, Paso Hito IV-0-B (Dos Lagunas), in
Candelario Mansilla. Here, you’ll conduct
the Chilean border transactions and be
accepted into Chile. Most visitors end their
day 3 Km down the road, at the rural hostel
and campground of the Candelario Mansilla
Estancia.
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Patrick McGarry
Section 3C: Boat travel, Candelario Mansilla Villa O’Higgins (58.4 Km).
Section 3C crosses O’Higgins/San Martin
Lake from Candelario Mansilla to Puerto
Bahamondes and Villa O’Higgins. The L/M.
Quetru has trips several days each week
during the season, November through
March. You can see the precise dates and
make reservations on-line. The L/M. Quetru
makes two stops at the docks of Candelario
Mansilla; the first around 11h30, and the
second, around 16h00. Travelers coming
from Argentina can board during either stop
and travel to Puerto Bahía Bahamondes, 7
Km south of Villa O’Higgins. The morning
trip (CH$65.000), accompanies the day-trip
to the O’Higgins Glacier. You can also opt
to can spend the day in Candelario Mansilla
and take the afternoon trip directly to
Puerto Bahía Bahamondes. (CH$40.000).
The boat takes bikes for no extra fee!
There are several small transport vehicles
that offer rides to town (7 Km) for around
CH$2.000. Reservations are advised.
Villa O’Higgins is a tiny frontier town with a
population hovering around 500. It is the end
of the road for the Carretera Austral and an
authentic Chilean town with an economy
based on ranching and forestry. Tourism
is a recent phenomenon, which began to
develop in 1999, with the completion of the
Carretera Austral. There are no ATMs and
few, if any, places to exchange money. You
should already have Chilean pesos on-hand,
in sufficient quantities to last until you reach
the end of the Circuit in Cochrane. There
are a growing number of options for lodging
and eating-out.
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Trekking the shores of Laguna/Lago
del Desierto in route to Chile.
This hike along the shores of Laguna/Lago (Lagoon/Lake) del Desierto
with views of the Huemul Glacier begins the journey back from
Argentina to Chile, in much the same fashion as the early explorers. The
route is also a great day hike for visitors to El Chaltén; especially on
rainy days, as most of the trail is sheltered by dense forest cover.
Keith Bosak
• Activity Type: Through-hike
crossing the border from Argentina to
Chile or day hike from El Chaltén.
• Sector: Laguna/Lago del Desierto
• Starting Point: El Chaltén
• Ending Point: Candelario Mansilla
or El Chaltén
• Considerations: This hike crosses
the 17 Km span of Laguna/Lago del
Desierto, offering a more active and
economical alternative for crossing
Laguna/Lago del Desierto. However,
when operating, visitors have the
alternative to pay and travel via the
Argentine ferry, El Huemul. Take a
transfer service from El Chaltén to
the southern tip of Laguna/Lago del
Desierto, unless you are REALLY hard
core about hiking (34 Km). For day
hikers, arrange a return transfer as well.
The trail is hard to maneuver with a
bike loaded with gear. Distance bikers
should remove pedals and push in
some sections. We suggest carrying
your gear in a backpack, hiring a porter
service or, when in operation, you can
send your bike along ahead on the
ferry, El Huemul, for a fee.
• Distance: 34 Km if you are crossing
all the way to Candelario Mansilla. For
day-hikers, 21 Km, out and back, with
the Argentine border post as the turn178
around point.
• Seasonality: November to March
• Difficulty: Easy; however, plan for
a long day and coordinate your plans
with the hours and availability of
transfers, daylight, and boats.
The Route - Part 1: Approximately
2 kilometers before the Laguna/Lago del
Desierto dock, you’ll encounter a small
Keith Bosak
Argentina and unofficially, enter Chile. The
welcome signs marking your departure/
entry are a great spot for photos! The trail
widens into a road and most hikers decide
to hitch a ride across the 17 Km which
remain before the Chilean Guard station
for the fee of around CH$5.000, per person.
This shuttle (pick-up truck) only runs on days
that the L/M. Quetru crosses O’Higgins/San
Martin Lake. Check schedules on-line to
arrange your plans. At the Argentine guard
station, ask one of the guards to radio the
shuttle so you can coordinate your timing
with their routine. Bikers, save your money;
the single lane road is easy going as it’s all
downhill to the guard station. Riding on the
small airstrip is not allowed; instead, take the
path just to the right of the airstrip.
Keith Bosak
wooden footbridge, which serves as the
trail head for this hike. The single-track trail
begins by wrapping its way along the lake
shore, giving a good glimpse of what is to
come for the day. At the beginning of the
trail there are several small stream crossings
before climbing a ridge line across what
was once a glacial moraine. Hikers will find
metal arrows marking the trail at points of
possible confusion.
Pack clothing for warmth, rain, and wind, and
extra, in case of bad weather, which often
comes in quickly and unexpectedly. Hike in
shoes that are well broken in and can handle
multiple terrains. Be sure to pack extra
water and food. Care for the environment
and show respect for the wildlife and flora.
Around 6.5 – 7 Km in, after a long climb,
the trail arrives at a rocky vista with a
breathtaking view of Mt.. Fitz Roy and
Laguna/Lago del Desierto. This stop serves
as a good place for an early lunch break.
Next, the trail gradually descends rolling
hills returning to the shores of the Lagoon.
After hiking on the rocky shoreline for a few
hundred meters, the trail opens up, passing
through a small field to the Argentine border
crossing station. Day hikers can head back
along the same trail or opt to return by the
ferry, when operating, for a fee. For those
crossing to Chile, you will need to process
your paperwork here and be able to access
your personal identification, passports, visas,
and other relevant paperwork.
The Route - Part 2: Continuing north
to Candelario Mansilla, the trail heads
uphill for 5 Km, where you’ll actually leave
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179
Cruise O’Higgins/San Martin
Lake to the O’Higgins Glacier.
For the lucky few who cross borders between Laguna/Lago del Desierto and
Candelario Mansilla and all who visit the town of Villa O’Higgins, the cruise aboard
the L/M Quetru to Glacier O’Higgins is a full day excursion, not to be missed!
• Activity Type: Boat tour & Glacier
• Sector: O’Higgins/San Martin Lake
• Starting Point: Candelario Mansilla
or Bahía Bahamondes Docks
• Ending Point: Bahía Bahamondes
Docks
• Considerations: Strong winds
or storms mandate cancellations of
this passage. If you REALLY want to
experience the Glacier, plan a twoday grace period in your itinerary, to
accommodate for this the possibility.
• Distance: 91 Km, round trip from/to
Bahía Bahamondes dock.
• Duration: 10 hours (8 hours from
Candelario Mansilla)
• Seasonality: November - March
• Difficulty: If you are prone to seasickness, bring medication.
The Circuit: Glacier O’Higgins forms
a frontal wall for the Southern Patagonia
Ice Field, the third biggest extension
of continental ice, after Antarctica and
Greenland. It is the fourth largest in
Patagonia, with wall widths over 3 Km,
and heights greater than 80 meters. This
excursion provides the unique opportunity
to approach the frontal wall of Glacier
O’Higgins in the bay where it descends the
Southern Ice Fields, joining the lake. You’ll
travel aboard the L/M. Quetru, a modern
well-equipped vessel, which accommodates
up to 70 persons and is capable of sailing in
a variety of weather conditions.
The L/M. Quetru leaves from the Bahía
Bahamondes dock, 7 Km south of Villa
O’Higgins, at 08h30, on scheduled tour days.
The round trip from Bahía Bahamondes to
Glacier O’Higgins and back, is approximately
CH$80.000. There are discounts for
children; ages 0-6 are free, and ages 6-12
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receive a discount of 40%. Group rates are
also available, depending on group size. It’s
best to make advance reservations on-line,
or in the offices of Hielo Sur.. From there,
you can also access a shuttle to the docks
for approximately CH$2.000.
Around 11h30, the boat stops briefly, at
Candelario Mansilla, to accommodate
passengers crossing from/to Argentina.
From there, you’ll navigate towards the
bay of the Glacier, where, you will have the
opportunity to approach the front wall and
plenty of time to indulge your photographic
fantasies. After learning more about the
glacier, filling the memory of your camera,
having lunch, and sharing a whiskey on
glacial rocks, the boat returns, making a
second brief stop at Candelario Mansilla,
before crossing to the Bahía Bahamondes
docks.
Raise your glass and celebrate
reaching the heart of Patagonia!
Welcome to Villa O'Higgins, the heart of Patagonia, the end of the Carretera
Austral, and the remote gateway to the Southern Ice Fields. It is a land of
pioneers, explorers, adventurers and sailors, where nature is at its most pristine.
So...Just how remote is it? Villa O'Higgins
has around 400 inhabitants and is the only
urban area within 110 Km. The nearest
towns in Chile are Caleta Tortel (150 Km)
and Cochrane (230 Km), and access to
either requires taking the ferry across the
Mitchell Fiord. The closest town is actually
on the Argentine side, El Chaltén (110 Km),
but, as you know firsthand, to get there you
must walk A LONG WAY! So, here, in the
heart of Patagonia, you can truly disconnect
a while; tranquility rules.
It is probable there were indigenous groups
living in this area for thousands of years;
however, more recent settlements emerged
between 1914 and 1918, when a mixture
of Chilean and European families began
to settle in the sectors surrounding Rio
Mayer and Lago O’Higgins. For more than
fifty years, the area remained extremely
rustic and remote; inhabited by only a few
dozen families. Goods and services flowed
primarily through Argentina, where, the
topography made travel more feasible.
In 1965, to support efforts towards the
formal creation of the town, residents
constructed a runway to establish more
regular access within Chile. Work was
completed during the winter of 1966 and
later that year, on September 20, various
authorities from both the Aysén and
Magallanes Regions of Chile, landed on the
new airstrip, to recognize their efforts. The
town was formally established in 1980, at
which time it had already built a primary
school and a health post. 1983 was another
big year for Villa O’Higgins. Electricity, a
radio station, a church, and a gym arrived;
all catalyzed by Father Antonio Ronchi.
Perhaps the biggest change came, with the
opening of the southernmost section of the
Carretera Austral, in 1999, which allowed
overland access through Chile.
As opposed to El Chaltén, which was
created expressly for tourism; ranching
and forestry are the productive activities
supporting the economy of Villa O'Higgins.
Because of this, daily life for the residents
of Villa O'Higgins is still closely tied with
that of their ancestors, who settled the
area. Many pioneer traditions remain intact,
including the daily dependence on horses,
woodworking, using native woods and rustic
tools, knitting, smoking meats, etc.
Being a remote community limits access to
modern luxuries, but if you are prepared for
that, you'll find Villa O'Higgins full of simple
comforts, including excellent options for
lodging, cellular service and Internet, a rural
first-aid post, grocery and hardware stores,
great restaurants, travel companies and
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181
182
guiding services.
In fact, you can even find some creative
luxuries, like a wood-burning stove assisted
sauna, at the El Mosco hostel and the woodburning hot tubs at the Robinson Crusoe
Lodge. The important thing to consider is
that in Villa O'Higgins there are no banks
or ATMs, and no one takes credit cards so bring cash. The nearest bank is in the
town of Cochrane, and again, only caters
to national ATM networks and credit card
companies.
Many visitors ask, so we offer a
brief bit of context to help you
understand a Patagonian reality.
The seemingly high prices of goods in town
are not the result of greed. High prices
for basic goods are a reality of life for both
residents and visitors in Villa O’Higgins and
other points in this sector of Patagonia.
Transporting goods from far away cities, like
Santiago or Puerto Montt, to such a remote
place, literally situated at the end of the road,
is a costly proposition, producing higher
costs for all. That’s one big reason that life
seems much simpler here. We live with
the basics, we fix things when they break,
and we reuse everything that we can. We
welcome you to the heart of Patagonia and
raise a toast to your visit!
Here are some places to visit and
things to do in town:
O'Higgins Glacier Tour: Full day boat
excursion aboard the L/M. Quetru to
the O'Higgins Glacier, fourth largest in
Patagonia, with a wall extending 3+ Km and
heights in excess of 80 M..
Father Ronchi Museum: This museum
located in the church built by Father Antonio
Ronchi, contains exhibits demonstrating
the history of the area, the life and works
of Padre Ronchi, and antiques from the
pioneers of the town.
Mosco Glacier Trail: Full day trek winding
through native forests above town and the
Mosco River Valley, to a fantastic overlook of
the Mosco Glacier.
Patrick McGarry
through native forests of Villa O'Higgins to
an overlook above town with an impressive
view of surrounding valleys, lakes, and rivers.
Road trip to Mayer River & Lake Christie
Sector: This valley is still one of the most
remote in Patagonia, maintaining an
atmosphere of pioneers and frontiers.
Bird watching: Just outside of town you’ll
find wonderful settings for wildlife and bird
watching.
Recreational Fishing: The many rivers,
streams, and lakes of this sector are
brimming with an abundance of fish. Find a
local guide and head to the water!
Cycling Routes: You can rent bikes in town
and enjoy several short circuits that will
create your own experiences and memories
of cycling on the Carretera Austral.
El Tigre Glacier Hiking: 24 Km north of
town, you can partake in a 7 Km guided
hike to the El Tigre Glacier which affords
spectacular views of both the Glacier, and
the Cisne Lake Valley.
Trail to Cerro Santiago: Easy, one hour hike
183
Hike to the Overlook of
Cerro Santiago.
This short and easy hike takes about an hour, and is suitable for everyone. From
the height of the overlook, you can enjoy a wonderful 360° panoramic view
of Villa O’Higgins and the surrounding valleys, mountains, lakes and rivers.
• Sector: Cerro Santiago, Villa
O’Higgins
• Starting Point: Municipal Park,
• Ending Point: Municipal Park
• Distance: 1 Km
• Duration: 1 hour
• Seasonality: October to April
• Difficulty: Easy
The Route: This short trek will provide
you with a 360° panoramic view of the
town of Villa O’Higgins, the Mayer River
valley, O’Higgins, Ciervo and Cisnes
Lakes (from left to right), and the end of
Carretera Austral. Begin from the trail head
at the municipal park. The route is very well
developed and marked, a great start to any
day!
Rodrigo Merino
NOTES
Rodrigo Merino
184
This great 1 or 2 day trekking route climbs Cerro Santiago on trails
which follow the banks of the Mosco River, passing through lush native
forest and a series of lookout points, to the foot of the Mosco Glacier.
This is a great hike to do on your own
or with one of the local guides in Villa
O’Higgins, who can teach you about local
flora and fauna you will observe along the
trail. This hike provides a range of physical
and technical challenges; the first sections
are suitable for everyone, including families.
The biggest challenge you’ll find in these
first sections is forcing yourself to turn back
as the going gets a bit more technical; the
beauty of the area is sure to tempt you to
keep going. If you do, please make safety
a priority as you will be required to cross
streams and slippery areas of moraine in
later sections of the hike.
• Sector: Villa O’Higgins
• Starting Point: The main entrance
point is from the CONAF guard station
just outside of town. The trail head can
also be accessed outside of town to
the north along the Carretera Austral,
marked by a small roadside sign.
• Ending Point: Cerro Santiago,
• Considerations: Along the route
•
•
•
•
there are some shelters, that can be
used for camping or to get out of bad
weather. If you plan to overnight hike,
check in at the CONAF guard shelter,
to make sure the shelters are not
already reserved.
Distance: 20.8 Km, out and back
Duration: 5-6 hours
Seasonality: October to March
Difficulty: Families are
recommended to turn back to Villa
O’Higgins when the slope becomes
steep, before the river crossings.
The Route: The hike begins at the Cerro
Santiago trail head in the town’s center and
heads east. Once you reach the CONAF
Guard Post, look for the trail head markers.
This trail is well marked, using various
mechanisms, including horizontal red and
yellow bars painted on trees, rock cairns,
and wooden pegs in the ground. The trail
ascends through a series of switchbacks for
roughly 3 Km, merging with the alternative
entrance coming from the Carretera
Austral. You’ll pass burned tree trunks from
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185
river crossings, we suggest hiring a guide
in town who can assist and teach you the
techniques.
Once across the river, the trial begins to
climb steeply over large rocks and boulders.
This section may require crawling and
scrambling, as you maneuver up the steep
slope. Use extreme caution when doing
this, as the rock can be loose. A technique
to use is to spread out your group, allowing
a safe distance between members, in case a
rock falls. At the top of this climb, you need
to cross the Mosco River. As before, use
good judgment and technique.
Rodrigo Merino
historic forest fires before reaching an
overlook offering impressive views of the
Mosco and Mayer River Valleys.
The trail continues to climb, entering an
extremely dense area of lenga, (nothofagus
pumilio), and coigüe, or beech, (nothofagus
dombeyi), forest. In this section it’s important
to keep alert for trail markers every ten to
twenty meters to confirm the trail. When
the trail levels off, you will begin to encounter
several river and stream crossings, which are
assisted by rustic bridges, made by CONAF
from trees. When they are wet, they can
be extremely slick so use caution, especially
with children.
The path soon descends to the edge of the
Mosco River. Although there is a wooden
walkway over the river, DO NOT TAKE
THIS, if wishing to see the Mosco Glacier.
Instead, continue on the trail that is clearly
marked with horizontal red and yellow bars
painted on trees, rock cairns, and wooden
pegs in the ground, winding to the Claro
River. Here, a marked section indicates
a short, but technical, river crossing. Use
judgment in this section; if the water is high
and powerful, turn around and head back to
Villa O’Higgins. NEVER CROSS ALONE. If
you do not have previous experience with
186
The next section leads to the 25 m, Mosco
River waterfall. Look for signage, which will
be posted on the north side of the cliff from
which this waterfall descends. This indicates
your route for the final climb. Again, you’ll
employ a hands and knees scramble to safely
maneuver the slope. It’s worth the work. At
the summit of this hike, you’ll be rewarded
with views of the Fria Lagoon, fed by glacial
melt coming off the Mosco Glacier and
draining into the headwaters of the Mosco
River. Some surrounding peaks include
Cerro Mirador (1,788 m), Cerro Catalina
(1,894 m), and Cerro White Huemul (2,230
m), which is the highest peak in the Mosco
Valley. Return to town along the same path,
following the markings, which can be found
on both sides of trees and rock cairns.
NOTES
Answers to your questions
about the science of ICE.
Without a doubt, one of the most amazing aspects of the Undiscovered
Patagonia Circuit is its abundance of glaciers. In this article, we share
some answers to questions frequently received by visitors to the area.
Q. What is a glacier?
A. A glacier is a thick mass of ice that forms
on the earth's surface from the accumulation,
compaction and re crystallization of snow.
Q. How are glaciers formed? A. Gradually, year after year, snow is
transformed into ice. New layers of snow
fall on top of existing layers of snow and
ice; creating pressure, and a phenomenon
known as firnification. This process
transforms the snow into firn, which is
much more dense and granular. As the firn
is further compressed by additional layers of
fresh snow, it becomes ice. Over the years,
the ice becomes thicker and heavier, forming
a field of ice. The forces of gravity take over
and slowly, the ice field naturally begins to
move, flowing down into the valleys and
lower slopes of the mountains, and forming
the tongues of the glaciers. In flatter areas,
or areas with little surface melting, like
Greenland and Antarctica, the formation of
glacial tongues can take hundreds, or even
thousands, of years. Q. Why do glaciers move?
A. The enormous pressure placed on
the ice crystals, as more and more layers
amass, produces a plastic-like texture, and
a composition which begins to move slowly,
under the force of gravity. To be a bit more
precise, the ice moves through two different
processes:
• Internal flow takes place when the
structure of the ice crystals changes
and heavier ice begins to place pressure
on lighter ice. In some parts of the ice
field, internal flow causes the ice surface
to become more fragile, and produce
cracks that can be very dangerous for
hikers. Inside, the behavior is more
plastic and the ice crystals slide over
187
each other.
• Basal slip movement results when the
entire mass of ice turns over. When
the base of the glacier takes on a liquid
water film, this reduces the internal
friction that naturally facilitates the
movement of ice over the bedrock,
causing basal slip. This happens
frequently in temperate glaciers.
Q. Are there many glaciers in
the world? Where are they?
A. Glaciers form in regions where the
annual precipitation exceeds the amount of
snow that melts and evaporates, in summer.
This phenomenon is most often associated
with areas near the North and South Poles,
but glaciers can also be found in many
mountainous areas, including mountains
of Africa and South America. Today, only
10% of the Earth is covered with glaciers,
but during the last ice age, that percentage
rose to 30%. Currently, 91% of the total
volume of glaciers, and 84% of the total
area of glaciers, are within the Ice Fields
of Antarctica. The Antarctic Ice Sheet is huge! It covers
almost 14 million Km² and contains 30
million Km³ of ice. The Antarctic Ice sheet
represents almost 61% of all the fresh
water reserves in the world! The next
highest concentration is the Greenland Ice
Sheet, which extends from the latitudes
of 60° to 80°, covering approximately 1.7
million square Km. This ice sheet represents
approximately 8% of the world's total
glacier volume, and 14% of the glacier area. In Patagonia, there was once a third Ice Sheet,
extending from Puerto Montt through all
of southern Chile, into Argentina. This ice
formation reached its largest mass between
17,500 and 18,000 years ago, covering
480,000 Km² of land, with a mass of more
than 500,000 Km³ Today, only about 4%
of that mass remains; contained within the
Northern and Southern Ice Fields that you
can visit within the Undiscovered Patagonia
Circuit. These Ice Fields comprise the third
largest extension of continental ice in the
world. The Northern Patagonia Ice Field
consists of approximately 4,200 Km2 of
ice, with 28 outlet glaciers; all within the
boundaries of the San Rafael Lagoon
National Park, in Chile. The Southern
Patagonia Ice Field consists of 16,800
Km2 of ice, with 48 outlet glaciers entering
the Patagonian channels of the Pacific
Ocean, and lakes and rivers extending
to the Atlantic. This natural wonder is
protected through the Chilean National
Parks of Bernardo O'Higgins and Torres del
Paine, and Los Glaciares National Park, in
Argentina.
Q. Why is glacier ice blue?
A. Despite the common belief, the blue
color of glacier ice is not a result of age; at
least not directly. The various shades of blue
you can see in a glacier originate from the
high compression of ice under the weight
of snow, which prevents the formation of
air bubbles. Over time, this pressure builds
and more weight is added. The dense, heavy
ice absorbs all of the colors of the visible
light spectrum, including yellows and reds;
transmitting only the blue. Of course, you
cannot always appreciate this blue because,
often, the densest, bluest ice, is hidden under
a layer of snow, airier, white-colored firn, or
the dirt and debris of the moraine.
188
Q. Is climate change affecting
the glaciers?
A. In general, the size and melt rate of
glaciers depends on the climate of the
region in which they are situated. Part
of glacier mass loss is due to the natural
dynamics of the ice, in relation with this
climate.
However, in climates with prolonged
warming trends, ice melt has intensified. In
recent decades, there have been increases
in average temperatures and trends, as
well as differences in rainfall patterns,
produced in part by climate change. These
changes have had a strong impact on the
glaciers. Scientific studies indicate that
almost all glaciers in the Southern Patagonia
Ice Field are receding. For example, Glacier
O'Higgins, the fourth largest in Patagonia,
has experienced dramatic losses of ice mass
in recent times. The front of this glacier
remained in a stable position until the early
• Valley Glaciers: Here, the ice does
twentieth century, when it began to decline
not completely cover the topography;
at an increasingly rapid rate. By 1995, the
rather, it is channeled through it. Valley
front wall has receded approximately 14.6
Glaciers are found in mountainous
Km; 11.5 Km of which, were lost between
areas, occupying the bottoms of some
1945 and 1980 (Casassa et al., 1997).
of the valleys, and discharging melts and
freshwater releases to warmer areas.
Q. Are all glaciers the same?
• Cirque Glaciers: Small masses of ice
A. Each and every glacier is unique, but
that are located in the headwaters
there are similarities that allow them to be
of mountain valleys and occupy
categorized; normally, according to their size
depressions called cirques.
and relation to the topography. Here are • Alpine Glaciers: The combination
some typical classifications:
of the presence of Valley and Cirque
glaciers forms another larger category,
• Large Ice Sheets or Caps: Large
known as alpine glaciers.
masses of ice that completely cover the
terrain on which they stand, except, at
times, the very edges of the land mass.
There are two large Ice Sheets; one in
Greenland and the other in Antarctica. • Small Icecaps: Also cover large areas,
but less than 50,000 km2 in size. The
best known are those of Iceland and
Svalbard.
• Ice Fields: Unlike the ice sheets or
caps, ice-fields have a surface that is
dome-shaped. Their flow is controlled
by the topography of the land they
cover. Examples include the Northern
and Southern Patagonian Ice Fields, and
parts of the Canadian Rocky Mountains.
Q. What are the effects
produced by glaciers?
A. Glaciers have an enormous impact on
the world in which we live; both locally,
in the areas where they are situated, and
globally. Worldwide, glaciers store almost
33 million Km³ of fresh water. This giant
“ice cube”, helps regulate world sea
levels. Imagine if all of that ice melted
overnight. Water would flood down,
through rivers and lakes, and the oceans
of the world would rise dramatically!!! In
fact, much of the current land mass would
disappear under the rising tides. 189
In ice ages, more of the annual rainfall is held
as ice, and the glaciers grow. Conversely, in
periods with warmer climate trends, the ice
sheets melt, raising the sea level worldwide,
This is called eustatic change. Think of the
world's glaciers like systems, with inputs
and outputs, that interact with other natural
systems, such as atmosphere, oceans, rivers,
topography, and landscape.
At a local level, glaciers also influence other
natural systems. In fact, you will probably
experience one of these interactions during
your time in Patagonia. Probably, when
you are close to the Ice fields, you will
notice that weather behaves "differently"
than in the rest of Patagonia, or at your
home. You will notice localized pressure
changes that produce erratic rain and wind
patterns. These weather patterns are being
influenced by the outputs of the glacier
systems nearby.
Also, glaciers are important geomorphic
agents; which leave a giant footprint on
their local environment. As the ice moves
slowly over the terrain, behaving as a plastic
material, it carves U-shaped valleys, bowlshaped cirques, pyramidal horns, and jagged
ridge lines. It grinds up and erodes the rock
below, transporting and abandoning it in the
form of sediment. As you travel through
areas where the glaciers have disappeared,
look you can often notice their footprints
from the configuration of the land and
the presence of erratic boulders and large
rocks, left behind by ancient ice.
• Derruau, Max. "The system of glacial
erosion." In Geomorphology. Section
3, Chapter 2. Barcelona: Ariel, 2nd Ed.,
1991.
• Hambrey, Michael, Alean, Jürg. Glaciers.
Cambridge University Press, 2004. ISBN
0-521-82808-2
• Mattern, Joanne. Antarctica: The world's
largest glacier. The Rosen Publishing
Group, 2004. ISBN 0-8239-6874-X
• Strahler, Arthur N. (1992, reprinted
1997) Physical Geology, chap. 18:
Glaciers and glaciations of the
Pleistocene, Barcelona: Ed ISBN 84282-0770-4 Omega
• Tarbuck, E., 1999, Earth Sciences: An
Introduction to Physical Geology,
Madrid, Prentice Hall.
And for younger readers:
• Icebergs, Ice Caps, and Glaciers. Allan
Fowler. 1997.
• Learning about the Earth: Glaciers.
Colleen Sexton. 2008.
• Exploring Glaciers. Melody S. Mis. 2009.
• Glaciers. Larry Dane Brimner. 2000.
• Icebergs and Glaciers. Seymour Simon.
1999.
• Glaciers. Isaac Nadeau. 2006.
• Icebergs. Stuart A. Kallen. 2003.
Still have questions? Talk to the
guides and rangers you meet
during your trip and look for
these resources:
• Benn, Douglas I. and Evands, David J.A.
1998. Glaciers and glaciation. Arnold.
Page 66-90
• Knight, Peter G. 1999. Glaciers. Stanley
Thornes Ltd.
• Formation and Characteristics of glacier
ice. Encyclopedia Britannica. Academic
Edition. Revised. August 10, 2011.
• Glacier hydrology. Encyclopedia
Britannica. Academic Edition. Revised.
August 2, 2011.
190
Taste traditions that stand
the test of time.
Tortas fritas are a special homemade bread, which you fry, like a doughnut. In
Patagonia, since the days of the pioneers, Tortas Fritas have commonly been
served when guests arrive for yerba mate. They go hand in hand with a popular
relish called Chilean Pebre, and are always present at Patagonian Asados.
Evelyn Pfeiffer
Pioneers in Patagonia needed easily made
foods that could be transported in any
situation; from saddlebags to snow storms,
food had to be basic, durable, and filling.
One of the foods that met the criteria is still
indispensable today; the sopaipilla, or torta
frita. Like the empanada, local versions of
these simple, fried breads, are served in
cultures throughout the world. Tortas fritas
are great in a pinch, like when neighbors
stop by unannounced to share a yerba mate!
In reality, they’re a welcome addition to any
occasion. And of course, they go hand in
hand with a Patagonian Asado al Palo, lamb
or beef barbecued over an open fire!
In Chile, simple fried breads are known to
have been eaten since, at least, 1726. In the
central regions, of the country, they are called
sopaipillas, and usually include pumpkin as
one of their ingredients. In Patagonia, we
make a simpler version, without pumpkin,
and call them Tortas Fritas. Our version
is more similar to those made in Uruguay
and Argentina, and probably migrated
into Chilean Patagonia along with settlers
coming to work on the large Estancias. In
those days, they were fried in sheep fat,
giving them a heavy, rich consistency and
the ability to keep you going for long days
Evelyn Pfeiffer
on the trail. Today, most restaurants offer
a healthier version of tortas fritas, fried in
pure vegetable oil; however, old-timers
swear that “it’s just not the same” as the
heritage version, which is often still served
in country homes and quinchos.
The toppings you use with your tortas fritas
depend on whether you are in the mood
for something sweet or something savory.
Sweet options might include manjar, honey
or marmalade; while savory choices tend
toward hot butter, or Chilean pebre.
Chilean pebre, a relish-like sauce, was
one of the first “fusion” foods of Chile.
It was created during the time of the
Conquistadors, blending new ingredients,
brought from Spain, like cilantro, and green
onions, with native tomatoes, green peppers,
and hot chilies.
Today, pebre is a common sauce in Chile,
part of our national culinary heritage which
is served with a variety of dishes and as
an appetizer, with tortas fritas and other
breads. Ask for tortas fritas and Chilean
pebre in restaurants during your time in
the Circuit. If they don’t have any ready, get
them to prepare some for the coming day.
191
Prepare Patagonian-style tortas fritas
and Chilean pebre on your own.
Tortas fritas and pebre are a great snack to make and take
with you as you travel the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit. You
can even prepare them in the back country, while camping or
backpacking. Here is all you need to know, in a few quick steps.
Chilean Pebre can be a little trickier in
remote areas where there is sometimes
limited access to fresh vegetables. One
option is to shop for these ingredients in
one of the larger towns, like Cochrane or El
Chaltén and bring them with you. Another
is to opt for other toppings, like marmalade
or Ají Chileno (Chilean hot sauce). To
make fresh Chilean pebre, you will need
3-4 medium tomatoes, one bunch of
fresh cilantro, one bunch of chives, leftover
vegetable oil from the tortas fritas, a fresh
lemon, a head of garlic, salt, a small bottle of
white wine vinegar, and green chilies.
Evelyn Pfeiffer
Patagonian-style tortas fritas and Chilean
pebre are delicious, highly portable snacks;
great additions to any Tabla on the road
or trail. A fun way to explore this culinary
tradition is to make a batch for yourself.
Step 1: Buy your ingredients. The
ingredients for making Patagonian-style
tortas fritas with Chilean pebre are very
basic. No matter how small or remote the
town, you’ll be able to find what you need.
Shopping List: To make a batch
(approximately 15-20 medium sized
tortas fritas), head to the closest store and
purchase: a kilo of all-purpose flour, a small
packet of dry yeast, salt, a one liter bottle of
vegetable oil, and, optionally, a small packet
of manteca (animal fat).
192
Step 2: Prepare your Chilean
Pebre: Peel, seed and finely chop the
tomatoes, and blend with 2 teaspoons of
vegetable oil, a teaspoon of white wine
vinegar, the juice of one lemon, 2 minced
garlic cloves, ½ cup of chopped cilantro, 1/2
cup of finely chopped scallions, and 1 finely
chopped green chili. Add ¾ cup of cold
water and salt to taste. It’s best to let your
Chilean pebre sit for an hour to give time
for the flavors to blend.
Step 3:
Prepare your Dough:
Dissolve 1 heaping Tablespoon of dry yeast
in 1/3 cup of lukewarm water. Blend 1½
cups of flour with 1½ teaspoons of salt
and ½ cup of vegetable oil OR melted
animal fat, as you prefer. Mix until a dough
is formed. If necessary, add a few more
tablespoons of water until the dough holds
together. Turn the dough onto a floured
surface and knead for 8 -10 minutes, until it
is not sticky and springs back when poked.
Form into a ball and dust with flour. Place
into a bowl and cover with a clean, slightly
humid towel. Allow to rise in a warm area
for about 45 minutes.
Step 4: Prepare your Torta Fritas:
There are several ways to roll out and cut
tortas fritas. One method is to roll the
dough to about 1/4 inch thickness, and use
a round cookie-cutter or a turned over
drinking glass to make small circles. Poke a
hole in the center of each with your finger,
(like a doughnut). Pour enough oil in a small
skillet to have a depth of about an inch. Heat,
until it sizzles when the dough is added. Fry
your tortas in small batches, until golden
brown on both sides, turning them once.
Drain on paper towels and let them cool
a bit before eating with your fresh Chilean
pebre (or other yummy toppings)! Buen
provecho!
NOTES
P.S.
A note about preparing
tortas fritas in the back country:
Tortas fritas can be prepared and eaten
almost anywhere. You can even prepare
them using portable back-country stoves;
however, please take care with the use of
hot oil! Make sure your camp stove is on
a stable surface and do not let children play
near cooking area. Alternatively, you can
opt to pack-in your tortas fritas, already
prepared, and eat them when you’re ready
for a break. We’d have to say, this is much
more in keeping with the gaucho tradition!
Evelyn Pfeiffer
193
Join the elite few who have biked
the Carretera Austral of Chile.
Chile’s Carretera Austral is an international icon for distance cycling. Biking
the entire route takes months of training, precise planning, and expensive gear;
however, we’ve got a plan that allows everyone to sample a bit of the experience.
Evelyn Pfeiffer
By this point in the Undiscovered Patagonia
Circuit, you’ve likely passed almost as many
cyclists as sheep. With fully loaded bikes
that carry all their supplies, these hardcore road warriors travel the world over,
on multi-month, or in some cases, multiyear journeys. Chile’s Carretera Austral is
the distance cycling holy grail. Most bikers
begin their journey through this part of
Patagonia some 1,240 kilometers north of
Villa O’Higgins, in the city of Puerto Montt
and follow the Carretera Austral south for
its entirety, stopping only for obligatory
crossings in ferries. As these bikers descend,
the world surrounding them becomes
wilder and more remote, and the road
degrades from pavement to gravel. They
press on, in their quest for the ultimate prize;
reaching the docks of Puerto Bahamondes
where they can pose for a picture under the
sign indicating “The end of the Carretera
Austral” before boarding El Quetru, to take
them across Lago O’Higgins for passage into
Argentina.
194
Biking the entire route takes months of
training, precise planning, and expensive
gear; however, everyone can get a feel for
the experience. Bike day rentals are available
in Villa O’Higgins, from the Robinson Crusoe
Lodge and we have three great routes that
will help you make your own memories of
biking the Carretera Austral. Your challenge
is to enjoy the beautiful sights, sounds, and
aromas, as you chart your course toward
the end of this world-famous ride.
Circuit 1: Villa O’Higgins
Puerto Bahamondes.
•
•
•
•
to
Distance: 14 Km out and back.
Duration: 1-3 hours.
Seasonality: Year round.
Difficulty: All bike-riders.
The Route: Head south along the
Carretera Austral, passing the Los Corrales
sector and the shores of the Mosco River.
You’ll cross over the Grosse Bridge, and
then follow the shore of the river, which
soon empties into O’Higgins Lake. You’ll
pass several shipyards during the ride, some
of which are historical milestones for the
settlement of the lake and surrounding
areas. Your ending point is the Bahamondes
dock, where you will find boats offering
transport and tourism services for the lake.
Remember to look for the sign that marks
the end of the Carretera Austral!!! Like other
bikers around the world who have reached
this point on two-wheels, you need your
picture to commemorate this special ride!
On the way back, there is a great short hike
just before the Grosse Bridge. Here, you can
leave your bike and walk the short Alta Vista,
trail; the trail head is notable on the left side
of the road. Above, there are great views
of the Los Ciervos and O’Higgins Lakes and
the length of the Mosco Valley.
Route 2: Villa O’Higgins to Cisnes
Lake.
•
•
•
•
Difficulty: All bike riders.
The Circuit: Head north along the
Carretera Austral, passing through beautiful
native forests and over the Mayer River, via
the Van Schouwen Bridge. Continue along
the road to the shores of Cisnes Lake. Here
you can explore the southeast shore of
the lake, turning around at the bridge that
crosses the river, which is the drainage of
the lake. This route is great for combining
bird watching or fishing activities. There are
many places where you can leave your bike
and approach to the lake or advance into
the forest.
Van Schouwen Bridge. Turn right to follow
this side road. The route passes forests,
wetlands and many lagoons alongside the
road. You will have good chances to spot
Huemules (hippocamelus bisulcus) and
a variety of Patagonian birds, including
the ringed kingfisher (ceryle torquata)
and the Magellanic or black woodpecker
(campephilus magellanicus). This route
ends at the emblematic chapel, built by
Father Antonio Ronchi, about 18 Km from
the crossing. You’ll see this charming little
chapel, set back in a small meadow, on the
right side of the road.
When traveling by bike, it is
important to remember that on
gravel roads it is more difficult for
other vehicles to see you, because
of the dust. In Patagonia, there are no
bike lanes for cyclists and the sides of the
roads are narrow to non-existent.Therefore,
as a general rule, cyclists must increase the
chances that other drivers will see them by
wearing reflective clothing, using headlights
and reflectors, etc. Always keep your right
and be prepared to get off the road to
avoid collisions. Uphill, and in curved areas, it
is important to be visible always from both
directions of the road. Finally, be alert for
animals; they can cross unexpectedly.
Circuit 3: Villa O’Higgins to the
Chapel Built by Padre Ronchi and
the Mayer River.
•
•
•
•
Difficulty: All bike riders.
The Route: Ride north from town on
the Carretera Austral for 7.5 Km to the
crossroad for Entrada Mayer, just before the
PTI Corfo
195
Inform yourself about the Bird
Lifezones in the Circuit.
This article will help you predict the types of birds you are likely to
see as you travel through the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit.
and Philippi, 1965; Araya & Sharon Chester,
1993) assisting birdwatchers with predicting
the types of birds they are likely to see.
Within
the
Undiscovered
Patagonia Circuit, there are two
avian lifezones, the Feugian Zone
and the Patagonian Zone.
Magellanic woodpecker (campephilus magellanicus),
Evelyn Pfeiffer
Villa O’Higgins and the rest of the areas
within Stages 3 and 4, lies within the
Feugian Lifezone, which includes the
channels, fjords, glaciers, forests and islands
of southwestern Chile and by extension,
southwestern Argentina. Birds that are
characteristic of this lifezone include the
Magellanic diving petrel (pelecanoides
magellani), imperial cormorant (leucocarbo
atriceps or phalacrocorax atriceps), flying
steamer duck (tachyeres patachonicus),
flightless steamer duck (tachyeres pteneres),
“The birds of Chile represent about 5% of the
world’s total species, which is calculated at
approximately 8,600. To date, 448 species of
birds representing 56 avian families have been
recorded in Chile. Of these, approximately
296 species nest here. The major families
represented are Procellariids, with 32 species
of seabirds, and Tyrannids, with 35 species of
tyrant flycatchers. Endemic species, that is to
say, birds found only within Chilean borders,
number 6 mainland species and 5 insular
ones.” (Source: “The Birds of Chile”, Araya
& Chester, 1993).
Geographic distinctions and associated
climate differences are the main factors
which produce the tremendous variety of
avian species observed in Patagonia. They
habitat distinct lifezones, which have been
classified by ornithologists (Goodall, Johnson
196
Ruddy-headed goose (chloephaga rubidiceps),
Rodrigo Merino
Austral or Chilensis flamingo (phoenicopterus chilensis), Rodrigo Merino
Strickland's snipe (gallinago stricklandii),
Austral parakeet (enicognathus ferrugineus),
Magellanic
or
black
woodpecker
(campephilus magellanicus), black necked
swan (cygnus melancoryphus), and shortbilled miner (geositta Antarctica).
NOTES
Stages 1 and 2 of the Circuit lie within
ecosystems
characteristic
of
the
Patagonian Lifezone, which includes
Grasslands, scrub, steppe and pampa.
Here, you are likely to see the lesser rhea
(rhea Americana), ruddy-headed goose
(chloephaga rubidiceps), crested caracara
(caracara cheriway), Austral or Chilensis
flamingo (phoenicopterus chilensis), and
Patagonian yellow finch (sicalis lebruni).
The majorities of Patagonia’s birds migrate
during the year, so don’t be surprised to
also spot some winged visitors during your
travels. As Patagonia has a temperate climate
within the southern hemisphere, summer
is from December through February. The
main breeding season for birds is during
late spring and summer, especially those in
the southern regions. Thus, the main time
of arrival for migratory birds is between
October and December, and their autumn
departure occurs between late February
and April (Source: “Birds of Chile”, Jaramillo,
2003).
197
Calling the curious! It’s time to
break out those binoculars.
This is a beautiful and relaxing, guided interpretive walk, for bird lovers and
those curious to learn more.You’ll go deep into the native forest surrounding
Villa O'Higgins to observe and understand the relationship between the
various species which habitat the forests of Patagonia, and the Andes.
• Activity Type: Guided Bird
watching and Nature Hike
• Sector: Villa O’Higgins
• Starting Point: Tsonek Eco-camping
• Ending Point: Tsonek Eco-camping
• Considerations: This excursion is
offered by Mauricio Melgarejo, Tsonek
Eco-camping & Expeditions. Contact
details in the Service Directory.
• Distance: 3 – 7 Km
• Difficulty: Suitable for anybody
interested in understanding the
ecosystem better, including children
ages 8 and up. Not suitable for large or
noisy groups.
The Circuit: If you enjoy bird watching,
or are curious to learn more, you are in for
a great experience. Mauricio Melgarejo, the
Director of Tsonek Expeditions, describes
his team’s experience and approach: “We
combine the disciplines of ornithology,
botany and fly-fishing. We invite you to get
to know the fascinating ecosystems that
surround us, to breathe the freshest air of
the planet, and to discover the wonder in
every step we take”.
The walking circuit begins within the Tsonek
Eco-camping Area, where your guide will
evaluate the conditions and interests of
the group, provide you with binoculars,
scopes, and field guides, to facilitate better
observation and identification of the
bird species typically found in the forest,
valley bottoms, wetlands, and lagoons.
The excursion is intended not only for
bird watching; but also, for exploring the
interrelationships between different bird
species and the rest of the ecosystem.
Birds usually spotted during this excursion
include: carancho (caracara plancus), kestrel
(falco sparverius), harrier (buteo polyosoma),
chercán (troglodytes musculus), cometocino
Patagónico (phyrgilus patagonicus), churrín
del sur (scytalopus magellanicus), Andean
condor (vultur gryphus), southern hued
hued (pteroptochos tarnii), cachudito
(anairetes parulus), diucón (xolmis pyrope)
and Magellanic or black woodpecker
(campephilus magellanicus), among others.
Apart from the species inhabiting the
region, you can also find various migratory
species, depending on the season and the
conditions.
Cristian Solis
198
Dress properly for cold weather, with layers
you can take on or off, as the temperatures
rise during the morning. Trips generally head
out early, around 06h00, in order to capture
the best hours of bird activity. Groups are
normally comprised of 2 – 4 persons, of
ages 8 and up.
BIRDS SIGHTED
Carancho (caracara plancus)
Rodrigo Merino
Southern hued hued (pteroptochos tarnii)
Rodrigo Merino
Black necked swan (cygnus melancoryphus)
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Andean condor (vultur gryphus)
Public Use
Magellanic or black woodpecker
(campephilus magellanicus)
Evelyn Pfeiffer
199
Rise to the challenge with
these bird watching basics.
Part of the fun of bird watching is the challenge of identifying each
variety. You have to be ready to observe a variety of details in a quick
period of time, since birds tend to be always on the move. The predawn shadows of early morning hours, the arrival of the sun, tree cover
and bushes; all of these factors add to the challenge and fun.
Ready to try your hand at bird
watching? There’s no better place
than Patagonia, with it’s grand diversity of
ecosystems and habitat. You can improve
your chances of success by paying attention
to these simple tips:
Watch the Bird – not the book!
When you spot a bird, take the time to
watch the bird, making mental notes of
its songs, habits, size and markings. Take
advantage of your time with the bird and
once it leaves, jot down notes and sketches
of everything you remember.
Listen closely. Sometimes, surrounded
by the sounds of nature, you forget to pay
attention to the unique vocalizations of
birds. Remember to listen to the bird’s song
as you watch; this is one of the best tools for
identification.
Size and Shape are the place to
start. Basic characteristics of your bird
include their general size and shape. These
aspects are important to note and will help
you to determine the correct family. In
comparison with the common birds you
are used to seeing, how would you classify
your new friend? Is it bigger than a sparrow?
A duck? An ostrich!?! Next, imagine the
outline of the bird as a silhouette. What is
the shape of its body? Does it fly? How
does it move when on the ground? Would
you describe it as being agile or unsteady?
Note the details; bills and marks.
Once you’ve got the basics, begin to focus
in on the details. Just like with humans,
start with the face. What does the bill look
like? Would you describe it as straight or
curved? Flat or cone shaped? What kinds of
markings are on the face of the bird? Look
for unique details relating to color bands,
outlines around the eyes, neck color and
Here’s a practice case provided by www.destinopatagonia.cl.
200
markings, arcs around the eyes, hoods, a
crest of feathers, etc.
Move on down…wings and tails.
Once you’ve finished with the head, begin
to move along the body of the bird, noting
distinctive characteristics of shape, color
and marking relating to the body, wings
and tail. You are likely to notice important
distinctions when the bird begins to fly away.
Note the color of its back and body, as well
as distinctive stripes or color bands. Is the
tail of the bird forked, rounded or squared?
How long is it in relation to the body of the
bird? Is it held upright or straight back?
Park. contacto@49southphoto.com.
• On the Internet, we recommend www.
avesdechile.cl.
BIRDS SIGHTED
Study the bird's legs. What is their
length and color? The feet of the bird are
important tools that provide clues as to its
primary behaviors. If you have the chance
to view the bird’s feet, notice if they are
webbed or if they have talons.
Remember that old saying, “You
are what you eat”. Hopefully, you
will have an opportunity to see some of
the birds you observe as they eat. Notice
whether they search for their food within
the bark of the trees or instead, fish for
food by swaying their beaks or diving in
water, forage for insects and seeds on the
ground, forage for food amongst already
dead animals they encounter or hunt and
kill small animals such as rodents.
Put it in context. Where did you see
this bird? Jot down a few notes about the
place where you spotted your specimen,
the type of natural features that were
around, the weather, and the date.
Solve the case!
By now, you’ve
captured all the critical clues to solve
your grand mystery. Utilize your notes
and observations, with a bird guide of the
region, to determine the type of bird you
have observed.
A couple of good guides
include:
• Jaramillo, 2003. Birds of Chile, printed
by Princeton Field Guides
• Costa y Punta, 2009. Field Guide to the
Flora & Fauna of the Glaciares National
201
Enter Father Antonio Ronchi’s
world where anything is possible
and everyone pitches in.
The inspiring life and works of this self-proclaimed “rascal priest” provide
a window into the culture and history of our unique corner of the world.
Father Antonio Ronchi arrived in Chile in
1960, at the age of 30, and dedicated the
remainder of his life to work within her
most rural and isolated communities. He
helped them improve basic infrastructure
and build social capital, with a unique style
that enabled ALL to participate. At times,
it is hard to separate the legend from the
historical facts; perhaps that is the essence of
Father Ronchi’s special style. He described
himself as the “rascal priest”.
Born February 3, 1930, in Balsamo, Milan,
Italy, Father Antonio Ronchi first traveled to
Chile in 1960, with the Mother of the Divine
Providence mission. After a year, he was
sent south to Puerto Cisnes, a small coastal
town in the north-central area of Aysén.
During this assignment, he spent 7 years
in the rural communities of the Region,
visiting communities and rural households,
conversing with local authorities and
business interests, searching for ways in
which he could garner resources and
assistance to improve rural living conditions.
Father Ronchi’s second assignment in the
Region of Aysén began in 1972 and lasted
approximately 20 years. Rural areas in the
Region were still very isolated. Imagine
a place surrounded by dense forests,
mountains and fiords; perhaps the very
place you are in now, while reading this
article. But this was 1972; before roads
or cell phones or WiFi. In fact, access to
electricity was still fairly uncommon for
many families in the Region in 1972; the
infrastructure was extremely sparse.
There were few roads, schools, medical
facilities, and churches. Communication
largely occurred through news passed along
from farm to farm. There was UHF radio;
however, only the government or Rural
Health Posts had equipment. Residents
needed to reach these posts and ask
permission, in order to send a message.
Father Ronchi worked tirelessly over the
next 20 years, traveling to corners in
the Aysén Region that were considered
Ida Vasquez, Community Church Building Project, Lago Verde, CH, late 1970s.
202
why Father Ronchi is still so highly praised;
beyond helping build infrastructure, he
helped connect communities.
In 1994, Father Ronchi received Chilean
nationality, in recognition of his extensive
work for the isolated and impoverished
inhabitants of the southern regions. This
official recognition went beyond his
achievements, also emphasizing his austere,
enterprising approach and dedication to the
communities he served. On December 17,
1997, Father Ronchi passed away at the age
of 67. His remains lie in the cemetery of
Puerto Aysén, Chile.
Elias Munoz
unreachable. He helped communities build
small churches, workshops, boats, docks
and schools. He helped them obtain small
water turbines for electricity and installed a
considerable number of FM radio antennas
to improve communication.
One of the unique aspects of Father
Ronchi’s style was his use of what is called
a “minga” approach within his community
projects and work. This approach was
borrowed from the Island of Chiloe, a bit
further north in Chile, where many of the
Aysén settlers had ties. When communities
in Chiloe had challenges or problems to
address, people came together to solve
them as a community; each making a
personal contribution to the project, based
on their individual talents and resources.
In Aysén, Father Ronchi would go door
to door, calling on each and every person
in the entire community in which he was
working, often walking the long distances
from farm to farm, and asking for their aid in
the development of each particular project.
From donating wood and supplies to putting
in hours of hard labor in construction to
providing food for the workers; everyone
in the town would help in some way or
another. This was one of the main reasons
While in Villa O’Higgins you can visit the
small museum in the former church, which
borders the Plaza of Arms. Here, you can
learn more about Father Ronchi and his
work. You will see more examples of his
projects and influence as you travel through
the final Sectors of the Undiscovered
Patagonia Circuit,. Many of the people who
live in these areas had the opportunity to
interact personally with Father Ronchi. They
recount fond memories of his many travels
through Patagonia and his time spent in
their communities.
Solis Family Collection, Lago Verde, CH
203
Ride along with Father Ronchi.
Immersed amongst glaciers, fiords, and rivers, imagine coming upon a
friendly sort, walking between towns, along the Carretera Austral. He’s
Father Ronchi, on his way to visit friends and assist them with the work in
their villages.When you stop to greet him, he tells you he's just a “rascal
priest”. Why not bring him along and let him show you some of his work?
community, in 1977. Today, exhibits honor
his years of development work in the Region.
You can peek inside his sleeping quarters, to
the side of the chapel, where he had private
possessions and reading materials, and see
a number of other historical objects that
portray the local traditions of this sector.
Solis Family Collection, Lago Verde, CH
During Stages 3 and 4 of the
Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit,
you can visit some of the chapels,
churches, and other projects
undertaken by Father Ronchi,
with the local communities. And
don’t stop there! Many of the people who
live in these areas knew Father Ronchi,
and worked alongside him, in some of his
many projects! If you find yourself with the
chance to chat, ask about their memories
of Father Ronchi's many travels through
Patagonia, and the time he spent in their
communities. Here are some specific places
to look for, as you make your way through
the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit:
Villa O’Higgins: On the northern side
of the Plaza of Arms, you will spot a yellow
church, which has been converted into
the Father Ronchi Museum. The original
church was built by Father Ronchi, with the
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Canogas Chapel: 7 Km from Villa
O'Higgins, just before you reach the Van
Schouwen Bridge over the Mayer River, you
will encounter a road leading to your right.
Turn right to follow this side road, which
follows the course of the Mayer River for
47 Km, before arriving at the Mayer River
Border Control Post. About 18 Km from the
crossing, you’ll encounter the emblematic
chapel, built by the Father Antonio Ronchi,
set back in a small meadow, on the right
side of the road. The Chapel makes use of
a pioneer building practice, called Canogas,
which consists of hollowing out tree trunks
and interweaving them to form a roof. The
Chapel was built by Father Antonio Ronchi
with help from residents of the communities
of Villa O'Higgins and the Mayer River Valley.
Mitchell Fiord – Puerto Yungay:
While crossing Mitchell Fiord by ferry, you
will notice that the boat bears the name
“Padre Antonio Ronchi”.This modern vessel
Sector Villa O’Higgins, Cristian Solis
Sector Caleta Tortel, Trace Gale
was christened in 2005, after a contest was
held to name the boat and determine the
paint scheme. If you look at the framed
artwork hanging in the main cabin, you will
find the winning entry, on which the scheme
was based. We encourage you to take a
minute to sign the guest register on board,
where you can browse the entries of other
travelers from all over the world.
After your arrival in Puerto
Yungay, you’ll have the opportunity to
discover a treasure, hidden to most travelers
through the area, as well as the chance to
explore “what could have been”. Stop by
the small cafe and kiosk, El Peregrino, and
speak with Don Francisco Velásquez and
his wife, Marta Inés Nahuel. You may have
to wait for the crowd to disperse, but as
others rush off, you will be rewarded with
rich treats from the kitchen and stories of
life in such a remote corner of the world.
Don Francisco and his wife live in one of
the four houses constructed here, seemingly
in the middle of nowhere, by Father Ronchi
in the 1980s. Father Ronchi not only built
houses in Puerto Yungay; he built a school, a
chapel, and workshops in which inhabitants
could work. In fact, his project even
included installation of an indispensable
turbine, to produce the energy necessary
for this would-be town.
Ronchi’s vision was that families
living in Caleta Tortel would
leave their houses and relocate to
Yungay. He felt it offered more options
for access, as the Carretera Austral was
connected as far as Yungay. He argued that
in fact, Yungay provided important access to
the Pacific, through the Mitchell Estuary and
was a more feasible location to build a town.
Solis Family Collection, Lago Verde, Chile
At the time, Caleta Tortel had no road
reaching town; access was only by light
plane or boat. Travelers left from a sector
named Puerto Vagabundo and navigated
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the Baker River to arrive through the Bay.
Ronchi’s plan never materialized, and it took
until 2003, almost 20 more years, for roads
to finally reach the isolated town of Caleta
Tortel; which, in spite of these challenges,
developed its own system for expansion,
based on beautiful, but quirky, mazes of
cypress boardwalks, connecting houses and
buildings, suspended above the fiords.
As you explore the area, you can try
to envision Ronchi’s reasoning, see the
remnants of his project in Yungay, and even,
take a heritage boat excursion down the
Sector Caleta Tortel, Trace Gale
Baker River, to arrive in Caleta Tortel the
traditional way. Then you can decide; should
Caleta Tortel have moved down the road to
Puerto Yungay?
Caleta Tortel: The works of Padre
Ronchi and the community of Caleta Tortel
can best be discovered, meandering along
the many boardwalks of the town. You’ll
encounter a full sized wooden statue of
Padre Ronchi standing outside of one of
his famous chapels. In addition to this small
church, which is still in active use, Padre
Ronchi supported the creation of the first
FM radio and television antennas for the
town. Although the satellite dish you see
today is a much later addition, it’s a constant
reminder of the efforts Padre Ronchi
made to connect Caleta Tortel with the
outside world. As in Puerto Yungay, Padre
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Sector Los Ñadis,
Padre Ronchi Works Foundation
Ronchi helped the community build their
first hydroelectric turbine, providing much
needed power for this isolated town. He
also constructed a boat to help transport
residents through the fiords and assist with
their economic development. Today, the
boat is no longer in use and its condition
has deteriorated; but, its shell is still intact
and can be seen next to the main docks of
Caleta Tortel.
Sector Los Ñadis: Approximately
halfway between Caleta Tortel and
Cochrane, you will enter the sector known
as Los Ñadis. If you keep a close eye, you
will spot yet another of Padre Ronchi’s
rustic chapels, built with the farmers of
this sector. If you would like to learn more
about the life and work of Father Padre
Ronchi, you can visit the Undiscovered
Patagonia Website, where you will find
links to 12 radio-theater pod-casts that
bring his many stories and legendary
adventures to life. If you can understand
Spanish, they make great company for the
road! These pod-casts were developed as
part of a project, paid for by the Chilean
Government, through their FONDART
program, the Padre Ronchi Foundation and
the Achen Theater Company. Initially, the
series was broadcast throughout the small
towns, rural areas and farms of the region
as a weekly radio theater program. Now,
you can download them to your MP3 or
Smart phone before your trip so you will
have them with you during your travels to
accompany you on the road.
Service Directory for Stage 3
3C
BancoEstado “Neighbor Fund” for Bank Card Customers.
Villa O’Higgins, CH, Av. Lago Christie, www.cajavecina.cl.
The BancoEstado (State Bank of Chile), has an auxiliary ATM-like cash box called its “Neighbor
Fund” for bank card customers. This cash box has a limited supply of cash on-hand, and
customers can only withdrawal small amounts of money each day. To use this service you must have
a current account with BancoEstado. Services offered to clients of the bank include: withdrawals,
cash deposits, BancoEstado transfers between customer’s accounts & third party accounts, loan
payments, BancoEstado cash advances and BancoEstado credit card payment, BancoEstado line of
credit operations, balance inquiries and password changes, reloading of mobile phones & payment of
utility bills. Plan accordingly!
3C
Tourism Information Office, Villa O’Higgins
Villa O’Higgins, CH, Kiosk, southwest corner of the Plaza of Arms. (0672) 431805,
soporte@municipalidadohiggins.cl.
This Tourism Information Office can provide maps, brochures, & information about tourism services
& public transportation, including the latest bus schedules & transfer information.
GENERAL – SAFETY
3C
Police Commissary, Villa O’Higgins
Villa O’Higgins, CH, Carretera Austral, Southern end of Town, (0672) 567196.
GENERAL – HEALTH
3C
Rural Health Post, Villa O’Higgins
Villa O’Higgins, CH, Carretera Austral, middle of the block between Rio Pascua & Rio
Mayer, (0672) 431883.
2 paramedics work at this rural health post, which provides basic outpatient care & medications along
w/emergency & ambulance coordination.
3C
Villa O’Higgins, CH, Corner of Río Mayer & Lago Christie, (600) 502020.
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3C
Villa O’Higgins, CH, Av. O’Higgins, between Rio Pascua & Mayer, (0672) 231981,
Villa O’Higgins Sales office. Flies small aircraft to Villa O’Higgins (CH$36.000) Mondays & Thursdays.
Charter flights are available to Caleta Tortel & Cochrane.
3C
Cordillera Bus Station
Villa O’Higgins, CH, Lago Salto 302, (0672) 431829, mirta.mendoza@hotmail.com.
Buses Acuario 13 provides transfers between Cochrane & Villa O’Higgins Tortel, 2-3 times a week. In
Villa O´Higgins, obtain updated schedules & reservations in the “Cordillera” Bus Station.
3C
“Hospedaje Patagonia” Bus Stop & Local Office
Villa O´Higgins, CH, Corner of Lago Christie & Rio Pascua, (0672) 431818,
www.aguilaspatagonicas.cl, contacto@aguilaspatagonicas.cl.
Buses Águilas Patagónicas provides transfers between Cochrane & Villa O’Higgins Tortel, 2-3 times a
week. Visit their website for helpful information. In Villa O´Higgins, you can obtain updated schedules
& details on how to make your reservations in the “Hospedaje Patagonia” Bus Station.
GETTING AROUND – BOAT TRANSPORT
3A
El Huemul Ship - Ferry for Crossing of Laguna/Lago del Desierto
El Chaltén, AR, Tourism Information Office, El Chaltén, AR, 28 Perito Moreno (Inside the
Bus Terminal), (02962) 493370, lguevara@santacruzpatagonia.gob.ar or
licluisinaguevara@hotmail.com.
When operating, the privately managed ferry “El Huemul” provides transport the length of Laguna/
Lago del Desierto, (45 minutes) & will take bikes. There is a fee for the crossing. Operations depend
on the availability of operating companies. Check w/the Tourism Information Office in El Chaltén for
the most up to data status & schedules for this service. If the boat is not in operation or you simply
prefer to walk (which has the added bonus of saving some money) please refer to the description of
the Laguna/Lago del Desierto hike. Many report the hike is the best option!
3C
L/M Quetru Ship - Ferry for Crossing Lago O’Higgins/San Martin
Villa O´Higgins, CH, Carretera Austral Km. 1240, (0672) 431821,
www.robinsoncrusoe.com or www.villaohiggins.com/hielosur,
info@RobinsonCrusoe.com or info@villaohiggins.com.
The L/M Quetru makes trips several days each week during the months of November – March,
between Candelario Mansilla & Puerto Bahamondes, your gateway to Villa O’Higgins. You can see
the precise dates & make your reservations on-line at the Robinson Crusoe site listed here. The boat
makes 2 stops at Candelario Mansilla Dock on sailing days; the first at around11h30 & the second
around 16h00. You can board during either stop for the crossing to Puerto Bahía Bahamondes, 7
Km south of Villa O’Higgins. The morning stop ($65.000) offers you the opportunity to join the
day-long excursion to the O´Higgins Glacier, offered by Robinson Crusoe - Deep Patagonia. If you
don´t wish to visit the Glacier, you can spend the day in Candelario Mansilla & board the ferry in the
afternoon, around 16h00, to go directly to Villa O´Higgins for $40.000. Upon arrival at the Puerto
Bahía Bahamondes, there are several small transport vehicles that offer rides to town (7 Km) for
around $2.000 Chilean Pesos. Reservations are advised.
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3A
Las Lengas Transportation
El Chaltén, AR, Antonio de Viedma 95 or Omnibus Terminal, Perito Moreno 28, (02962)
493023 or 493370 ext. 26.
Las Lengas Transports offers (minivan) transfers to Laguna/Lago del Desierto (AR$130), Hostería El
Pilar (AR$50) & Río Eléctrico - Los Huemules Private Reserve (AR$50).
3A
Walk Patagonia Transportation
El Chaltén, AR, 62 Av. Antonio Rojo N2, (02962) 493275, www.walkpatagonia.com,
info@walkpatagonia.com.
Transfers (4x4 vehicles or 15 person minibus) around El Chaltén Sector: El Pilar, Laguna/Lago del
Desierto, Bahia Tunel, & special or private trips to/from El Calafate Airport.
3C
El Mosco Passenger Transport
Villa O’Higgins, CH, Carretera Austral Km 1240, (0672) 431819,
www.patagoniaelmosco.com, patagoniaelmosco@yahoo.es.
El Mosco (15-passenger van) offers shuttle service for passengers & bicycles from Villa O’Higgins to
Pto. Bahia Bahamondes/Lago O’Higgins ($2.000 +/-), round-trip, & trips from Villa O’Higgins to Tortel
($ 10.000 +/-) & back, during the months of December through March, in a. They also offer special
trips in the region. Check for prices.
3C
Robinson Crusoe - Deep Patagonia Transfers
Villa O’Higgins, CH, Carretera Austral Km. 1240, (02) / (02) / (0672) 3341503 / 3341504 /
431909, www.robinsoncrusoe.com, info@RobinsonCrusoe.com.
Robinson Crusoe offers top quality transfers (coach) between Villa O’Higgins & the Bahia Bahamondes
port ($2.000) & between Villa O’Higgins & Caleta Tortel (Tuesdays & Thursdays: $15.000 1 way;
$25.000 round trip).
3C
Gas Station, Villa O’Higgins
Villa O’Higgins, CH, Lago Christie Ave. - On the north end in the curve.
Diesel & Gasoline sales. This is your last gas station until Cochrane!
3B
Rural Logistics Services - Estancia Candelario Mansilla
Villa O´Higgins, CH, Candelario Mansilla Sector, (0672) 431805.
At the end of the crossing between El Chaltén, AR, & Candelario Mansilla, CH, (Section 3-B), Don
Ricardo, of the Estancia Candelario Mansilla, can coordinate horse packing & pick-up truck transport
for the Chilean sections of the crossing ($5.000+/-). The Argentine Patrol Officers can radio him to
coordinate times. Once you arrive, he can help you explore the area´s trails, lakes & rivers.
3B
Rural Hostel - Estancia Candelario Mansilla
Villa O´Higgins, CH, Candelario Mansilla, (0672) 431805.
At the end of the crossing between El Chaltén, AR, & Candelario Mansilla, CH, (Section 3-B), the
Estancia Candelario Mansilla offers a small, basic, rural hostel ($6.000 per/person), dinner service
($5.000) & breakfast ($3.000), prepared by the family.
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3C
Albergue o Hostel El Mosco
The Hostel accommodates 24 people & features 4 large bedrooms; each w/6 beds (3 bunk beds),
a large lounge area, well equipped kitchen available to guests, maps, a library w/book exchange,
games, laundry service & bicycle storage. There is free Internet access w/a common terminal & Wi-Fi.
($9.000/person w/o breakfast; $12.000, w/breakfast). 19% Taxes is included in prices.
3C
Hospedaje Cordillera
Welcoming, centrally located hospedaje offering 2 doubles w/private baths ($18.000/person w/
breakfast), 2 doubles w/shared baths ($10.000 /person w/breakfast), 1 double w/shared bath ($18.000
w/breakfast) & 1 single w/shared bath ($10.000 w / breakfast). Food service is available for guests.
3C
Hostería El Mosco
Hostería El Mosco has 6 comfortable rooms w/capacity for up to 15 people. 3 are configured w/
private baths, a double bed & a single bed (2p - $45.000, 3p - $55.000).The other 3 have an oversized
single bed, a single bed, & share a bath ($18.000 single, $30.000 double), The hostería shares the
large living room w/kitchen access, library, book exchange, full information on the Patagonia, laundry,
free Internet access & Wi-Fi w/the Hostel. American-style breakfast & 19% Taxes included in prices.
3C
Hospedaje Fabiana
Villa O’Higgins, CH, Lago O´Higgins 98, (0672) 431824, lorenamolina73@yahoo.com.ar.
This residential hospedaje ($8.000 w/breakfast) stands out for its family atmosphere & friendly
personalized attention provided by the owners, who are available to help their visitors 24 hours a
day. Located on the southwest corner of the Plaza of Arms, w/a beautiful view of Cerro Santiago.
Hospedaje is located in the family’s house & has 1 bedroom w/a double bed & 1 w/3 single beds,
parking, use of the kitchen, Internet & laundry. Lorena cooks for her guests, when asked, w/lunch or
dinner for $3.500/person.
3C
Hospedaje La Cascada
Villa O’Higgins, CH, Pasaje Lago Salto, corner w/Río Mosco, (0672) 431833.
Traditional hospedaje in the center of town, serving families & independent travelers. La Cascada
offers 5 spacious, double rooms w/3 shared baths ($6.000/person). There is free access to their
kitchen for independent travelers. Breakfast service is offered ($2.500) w/homemade bread.

3C
Hospedaje Patagonia
Villa O´Higgins, CH, Corner of Rio Pascua & Lago Christie, (0672) 431818.
Established in 1997, this is the most traditional of the Hospedajes of Villa O’Higgins, located on the
corner of the Plaza. The Hospedaje ($10.000) has 9 rooms: 1 Single & 7 Doubles, w/shared baths,
& 1 matrimonial w/a private bath. They also offer meals for their guests ($2.500 Breakfast, $5.000
Lunch & Dinner).
3C
Hostería Runín
Villa O’Higgins, CH, Pasaje Vialidad, Villa O’Higgins (Access north Carretera Austral),
(0672) 431821 / 431822, runin@villaohiggins.com.
Hostería Runín is located in the northern access to Villa O’Higgins amongst ñire forests, overlooking
the Cordón Nevado, only 500 m from the center of the town. There are a total of 4 spacious double
rooms w/private baths ($28.000+/-) . There is a cozy family-style living room and the price includes
an American breakfast w/fruits, cereal, homemade bread & local produce. Hostel-style services are
also available in 4 double rooms w/shared baths. ($8.000 per/person without breakfast). Guests of
the hostel can purchase breakfast, if desired..
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3C
Lodge Robinson Crusoe - Deep Patagonia
Villa O’Higgins, CH, Carretera Austral Km 1240, (02) / (02) / (0672) 3341503 / 3341504 /
Lodge Robinson Crusoe was inspired by the legend of the adventurer Robinson Crusoe. 12 beautiful
rooms w/private baths & breakfast style “buffet”. (Single w/double bed - $101.150, Matrimonial
bed or 2 singles - $119.000; Triple w/Matrimonial bed + single bed, or 3 single beds - $154.700).
Through their architecture & decor creates a mystique & ambiance that allows guests to unwind from
their travels, relax, & contemplate the beautiful natural surroundings. The Lodge & its services are
available for independent travelers & for those who opt for all-inclusive programs.The facility includes
a clubhouse, outdoor, wood-burning hot tubs, private parking facilities, & a small gift/gear kiosk.
3C
Residencial Carretera Austral
Villa O’Higgins, CH, Río Colorado 212, (0672) 431880,
fernando.fuentesacera@hotmail.com.
Cozy accommodations w/family atmosphere & 6 double rooms w/2 shared baths. ($6.000 w/
breakfast) Food service provided for guests.
3C
Cabaña El Mosco
Nicely built & decorated, warm, comfortable & fully equipped to accommodate up to 7 people. It
has a bedroom w/double bed & 1 w/tone oversized single beds, & regular single bed. Living room
w/2 sofa beds & a wood stove. For up to 4 people, the price is $45.000/day; 5 people = $50.000,
& 6 or 7 people (only if the others are children) is $ 60.000. 19% taxes are included in our prices.
3C
Cabañas Entre Patagones Cabañas
Villa O’Higgins, CH, Carretera Austral, near the north access of Villa O’Higgins, (0672) /
(09) 431810 / 66215046, www.entrepatagones.cl, info@entrepatagones.cl.
Local family business offering cabañas within a beautiful forested setting ($60.000/night) for groups of
4 - 5 people & a “cabaña Jr.” which accommodates 2 adults & 1 child ($40.000). Cabañas are made
of native materials, & decorated in a comfortable style that incorporates elements of the history &
culture of the area. Feature top quality mattresses, down comforters, fully equipped kitchen areas,
a dining area & living room, clean, comfortable baths, large wooden porches outside, wood burning
stoves, & cable TV. Full-service restaurant w/local flavors & traditions, serves breakfast, lunch & dinner.
3C
Cabañas Fabiana
Villa O’Higgins, CH, Lago O´Higgins 98, (0672) 431824, lorenamolina73@yahoo.com.ar.
In addition to their family hospedaje, the Fabiana has a lovely cabaña ($30.000) to offer their visitors,
w/a double bed & 3 single beds, kitchen, bath, living room, parking, Internet & laundry.
3C
Cabaña Patagonia
Villa O´Higgins, CH, Corner of Rio Pascua & Lago Christie, (0672) 431818.
The owners of Hospedaje Patagonia also offer a cabaña ($40.000) for up to 4 persons, set amongst
a beautiful lenga forest along the way to Puerto Bahía Bahamondes.
3C
Cabañas Quiyango
Villa O’Higgins, CH, Carretera Austral, (0672) 431865, diosagape@hotmail.com.
2 fully furnished cabañas for 4-6 people each near the north entrance to Villa O’Higgins on a site w/
ample room for parking. Walk around & enjoy the greenhouses & beautiful forests nearby. Mix of
matrimonial & single rooms, nice baths, kitchen & living area. Valeska Sambrano, the owner, is a painter
(& quite good). The cabañas showcase her work. Optional homemade breakfast w/regional jams &
freshly baked bread, served in the main guest house.
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3C
Cabañas San Gabriel
Villa O’Higgins, CH, Lago O’Higgins 300, (0672) 431821, sangabriel@villaohiggins.com.
Cabañas San Gabriel ($35.000 - $90.000) offers 6 fully equipped cabañas accommodating 2 - 8
people. Each is equipped w/all the amenities for a comfortable & satisfying break. 4 cabañas located
in Villa O’Higgins Center & 2 alongside the Mosco River, where, you can wake up in the morning &
see mountains & glaciers. It’s a great way to begin the day! Wood-stove heating, hot water, & fully
equipped kitchens for self-service. All cabañas have parking on the premises.
WHERE TO SLEEP – CAMPING & SHELTERS
3B
Camping - Estancia Candelario Mansilla
Villa O´Higgins, CH, Candelario Mansilla, (0672) 431805.
Estancia Candelario Mansilla offers a Camping Area ($2.000 per/person), dinner service ($5.000) &
breakfast ($3.000), prepared by the family.
3C
Camping El Mosco
www.patagoniaelmosco.com, patagoniaelmosco@yahoo.es,
Huge site with plenty of space & access to facilities of the hostel: baths, kitchen, lounge, Internet.
($5.000 per/person). 19% Taxes included in prices.
3C
Camping Los Ñirres
Villa O’Higgins, CH, Northern entrance to Villa O’Higgins, turn off the Carretera Austral &
follow Hernan Marino, (0672) 431221, campinglosnires@gmail.com,
Camping area ($3.000) w/baths & hot water. Shelter facilities & self-service kitchen.
3C
Camping Runín
Villa O’Higgins, CH, Pasaje Vialidad, Villa O’Higgins, Access north Carretera Austral, (0672)
431821 / 431822, runin@villaohiggins.com.
Beautiful forested Camping Area, close to town, w/quincho. Meal service possible, upon request.
3C
Eco-camping Tsonek “El Parador del Carpintero”
Villa O’Higgins, CH, Carretera Austral, 1 mile north of the entrance to Villa O’Higgins, (09)
78929695, www.tsonek.cl, info@tsonek.cl.
Stay warm & sustainable on 5 wooden tent platforms located 5 min from town. Staff inform: “During
the year that it took us to develop, we decided to build using wood from fallen trees & other
recycled materials. We protected every tree & plant. Camping Area located deep w/i the Patagonian
forest. Eco-camp harmonizes w/incredible scenery, birds, sun, & camaraderie”. Sustainable practices:
Solar, properly treated runoff water, hot water showers, heated by kitchen-furnace-oven. Composting
toilets.
3C
Shelter La Florida
Villa O’Higgins, CH, Sector Río Mosco, Carretera Austral south of town, (0672) 431815,
rm8681@gmail.com.
Rural setting w/plenty of lenga forest. Quincho & sleeping shelters; 1 for 3 persons ($20.000 per/day);
& another for up to 7 persons ($25.000). Equipped cabin for up to 6 persons ($30.000).
3B
Rural Gastronomy - Estancia Candelario Mansilla
Villa O’Higgins, CH, Candelario Mansilla Sector, (0672) 431805.
Estancia Candelario Mansilla offers dinner ($5.000) & breakfast ($3.000), prepared by the family.
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3C
Café & Restaurant Campanario
Villa O’Higgins, CH, Lago O’Higgins 72, (0672) 431830, dafnelancaster@hotmail.com.
In this small cafe, you’ll have an authentic experience where you can interact w/people who helped
build Chilean Patagonia & share a rich dish, prepared w/ingredients & recipes of the area.
3C
Restaurant Entre Patagones
Warm, welcoming restaurant with authentic Patagonian dishes including stews, roasted meats,
freshly caught local fish, & house specialty, spit roasted lamb (Asado). Great wines & both Chilean &
imported beers. Breakfasts serving homemade breads fresh from the oven, local marmalades & eggs
from the free-range chickens roaming the grounds.
3C
Restaurant San Gabriel
Delicious breakfasts, lunches & dinners, using regional products. Many of the vegetables & meats are
from their farm, next to Mosco River. Great selection of regional & imported beers!
3C
Almacén Bruny
Villa O’Higgins, CH, Corner of Los Ñadis & Rio Bravo, (0672) 431805,
3C
Almacén Cordillera
coffee, tea, yerba mate & a limited variety of vegetables & fruits. Bus station inside store.
3C
Almacén Don Pepe
Villa O’Higgins, CH, Lago O’Higgins, middle of the block between Los Ñadis & Rio Bravo,
(0672) 431805, soporte@municipalidadohiggins.cl.
3C
Almacén Ventisquero
Villa O’Higgins, CH, Lago Christie, middle of the block between Rio Pascua & Rio Mayer,
3C
Provisions San Gabriel
San Gabriel Provisions, located next to San Gabriel restaurant, offers food & other supplies for
consumption in cabañas or for preparing a picnic or box lunch to take on your excursions in the area.
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3C
Villa O’Higgins, CH, Río Bravo, Cnr Lago Christie 206, (0672) 431873,
adolfoguicid@hotmail.com.
Adolfo Segundo is a local guide w/hiking excursions to Cerro Santiago w/up to 4 people ($10.000).
3C
Entre Patagones Excursions
(09) 431810 / 66215046 www.entrepatagones.cl, info@entrepatagones.cl.
Alonso Díaz (Coya), of Entre Patagones Cabañas & Restaurant, is also a long-time trekking guide in
the area. Having grown up here, he knows the routes for climbing to glaciers, like the El Tigre Glacier.
Check out details of this great hike in the article on the route of the El Tigre Glacier. Transportation
included.
3C
Robinson Crusoe - Deep Patagonia Excursions
The Robinson Crusoe Lodge offers open & all-inclusive adventure programs. Their trekking programs
include “Patagonian Corridor & Trekking”. Check out their website for details.
3C
The Native Trout - Nelson Henríquez
Villa O’Higgins, CH, Lago Cisnes 105, (0672) 431820, henriquezfica@hotmail.com.
The Native Trout offers hiking tours of the El Mosco Sector. (1-4 persons) Food services included.
3C
Tsonek Expeditions
Villa O’Higgins, CH, Carretera Austral, 1.6 Km north of the entrance to Villa O’Higgins,
(09) 78929695, www.tsonek.cl, info@tsonek.cl.
Treks to popular O’Higgins trail destination, such as El Tigre Glacier trekking. Email for details.
3C
Villa O’Higgins Expeditions
Villa O’Higgins, CH, Camino Austral Km 1240, (0672) 431821 / 431822,
www.villaohiggins.com, contacto@villaohiggins.com.
Villa O’Higgins Expeditions is a travel agency & tour operator whose philosophy is to support
adventure, comfort & knowledge. Offer a wide range of hiking tours & expeditions, including day
hikes, wildlife tours, mini-trekking on ice, intense trekking & camping & customized tours.
3C
Robinson Crusoe - Deep Patagonia Kayak Rentals
Daily kayak rentals. Arrange from reception area of lodge or their local Villa O’Higgins agency, Villa
O’Higgins Expeditions.
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Deep Patagonia Excursions on the L/M Quetru
The Robinson Crusoe Lodge offers a Deep Patagonia full day boat excursion sailing O’Higgins Lake.
“Villa O’Higgins & the Great Glacier” gets you to the heart of the action along the frontal wall of
the O´Higgins Glacier on the edge of the Southern Patagonia Ice Field. You’ll travel aboard the
L/M Quetru, equipped for up to 70 passengers. Check out the article describing the details for this
amazing tour! ($65.000 from Candelario Mansilla / $80.000 from Puerto Bahamondes)
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Excursions include boat rides & food services during the tour. Groups of 1 - 4 persons.
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contacto@villaohiggins.com.
Get up close to incredible vistas of the glaciers, mountains & lakes of the area. This local agency helps
you to have truly incredible moments in these amazing natural surroundings. Wide range of tours &
expeditions, including navigation to the glaciers & customized tours.
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Deep Patagonia Excursions - Robinson Crusoe
Villa O’Higgins, CH, Carretera Austral Km 1240, (02) / (02) / (0672), 3341503 / 3341504 /
Overland programs include “From Mount Fitz Roy to Deep Patagonia” & “Patagonian Corridor &
Trekking”. Open & all-inclusive adventure programs. Website has all the details.
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Padre Ronchi Museum of Villa O’Higgins
Villa O’Higgins, CH, North side of the Plaza of Arms, middle of the block.
This village’s Museum is located in the former Catholic chapel, built in the late seventies by the Italian
priest Fr. Antonio Ronchi. For the community, this church represents more than a building; it captures
the spirit of Villa O’Higgins. Most of the community had a personal role in the building of this rustic
little church, which used local materials, including lenga & coigüe shingles, donated by residents. Inside,
the Museum houses a collection of antiques donated by the founding families of the zone, samples
of local handicrafts & farm implements, articles & documents from Padre Ronchi’s private collection,
& a historic photograph exhibit.
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The Native Trout is a small business that focuses on fly-fishing activities, trekking, & horse-back riding;
all with an emphasis on local culture and traditions. Says Nelson, “I help my clients feel comfortable
& confident. I guide them in what they want; showing them what we really do, like the typical food of
the Patagonia. I suggest places where they can have low-priced, tasty & healthy meals. When camping,
I like to treat my clients to an Asado al Palo [spit roasted lamb], tortas fritas [fried breads], etc. We
provide good service & affordable prices to every customer. In my business everybody is welcome &
there are no favorites”. Excursions are normally for Groups of 1 - 4 persons.
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Tsonek Expeditions
Villa O’Higgins, CH, Carretera Austral, 1.6 Km north of Villa O’Higgins, (09) 78929695,
www.tsonek.cl, info@tsonek.cl.
If you enjoy Bird Watching, you are in for a great experience. Mauricio Melgarejo, the Director of
Tsonek Expeditions, describes his team’s experience & approach, saying, “We are a group of nature
lovers w/15 years of experience in the world of ecotourism. We specialize in ornithology, botany &
entomology; the sciences relating to bird watching, observation of flora & fauna, and fly-fishing. We
have a deep love & respect for our planet & the environment. Get to know the fascinating ecosystems
that surround us. Breathe the freshest air on the planet. Discover the wonder in every step we take.”
Groups of 2 – 4 persons, ages 8 & up. Costs between $15.000 - $25.000/person. Trips generally head
out early, around 06h00 in order to capture the best hours of bird activity.
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Villa O’Higgins Expeditions & Excursions
Enjoy the adventure of exploring unique natural areas, discovering native vegetation & wildlife. Get up
close to incredible vistas of the glaciers, mountains & lakes of the area for incredible moments in these
amazing natural surroundings. Villa O’Higgins Expeditions offers a range of wildlife tours.
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Villa O’Higgins, CH, Río Bravo 206, on the corner w/Lago Christie, (0672) 431873,
Adolfo Segundo is a local horseback guide w/excursions to the Alta Vista Glacier ($15.000), Negro
Lake ($15.000) & the Mosco Glacier ($15.000).
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The Native Trout is a small business that offers horse-back riding for groups of 1 - 4 persons.
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Horseback riding for the day & multi-day trips. You can customize your tour, to make it your own!.
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Recreational fishing at Cisnes, Ciervo & Negro Lakes ($60.000/day).
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Alonso Díaz (Coya), of Entre Patagones Cabañas & Restaurant, is a long-time fly-fishing guide in the
area. Having grown up here, he knows spectacular fishing spots. He has a cataraft & vehicle & gear
for 2 fishermen.
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The Native Trout is a small business that focuses on fly-fishing activities. Excursions include boat rides,
tours of the El Mosco Sector, & food services during the tour. Groups of 1 - 4 persons.
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Tsonek Expeditions
In addition to bird watching or hiking, Mauricio Melgarejo, the Director of Tsonek Expeditions, offers
other tours such as fishing with an emphasis on entomology. Ask for details.
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Villa O’Higgins Expeditions offers a wide range of tours & expeditions, including fishing tours.
THINGS TO DO – SPA & RELAXATION
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El Mosco Mini Spa “Patagon”
Imagine a “rustic” Patagonian-style spa; using woods & technologies from the local area, in order to
produce fun, relaxing & rejuvenating experiences, HERE, near the end of the world! Curious? Well,
head to El Mosco for some down time in their Finnish style sauna, a dry sauna, heated w/wood. It
has capacity for up to 5 people ($15.000/group/session). They also offer a hot tub (Jacuzzi), made of
native wood, filled w/3,500 liters of some of the purest water on the planet, & heated w/a woodburning stove. It also has a system of filters, aeration, & Jacuzzi - basically, it rocks! Capacity up to 8
people ($30.000/Group/Session). Book your times in reception area of hostería.
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Lodge Robinson Crusoe
Guests of Robinson Crusoe can relax in the Jacuzzis of the lodge, enjoying the twilight of a Patagonian
afternoon immersed in the views of the Nevada Mountain Range. It’s the perfect ending to a day
on the trails!
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Robinson Crusoe - Deep Patagonia Bike Rentals
The Robinson Crusoe Lodge offers daily bike rentals. Arrange from their reception area in or at the
offices of their local agency,Villa O’Higgins Expeditions. Check out the article about short bike circuits
in the Villa O’Higgins Sector and you’ll be set to hit the Carretera Austral!
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Guided mountain biking programs promise truly incredible moments in amazing natural surroundings,
& provide opportunities to share these experiences w/new friends you’ll make along the way.
NEW FINDS
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CHAPTER 5
DWELL WITHIN GLACIERS,
FIORDS, AND RIVERS.
STAGE 4
LIST OF ARTICLES
CHAPTER 5: Stage 4 - Dwell within Glaciers, Fiords, and Rivers.
220
221
Dwell within Glaciers, Fiords and Rivers.
229
Wind through the valleys of gauchos.
231
Catch a Tiger by the Tail.
233
Encounter Hidden Treasures.
235
Sail turquoise waters through history.
237
Welcome to Caleta Tortel – Unique Patagonian Heritage.
241
“Orienteer” your way along the boardwalks.
244
Summit Cerro La Bandera in a snap!
246
A boat ride to the Dark Side.
247
Tour the Southern Patagonia Ice Field and the Jorge Montt Glacier.
249
Explore the Northern Patagonia Ice Field and the Steffen Glacier.
251
Visit Fundo Los Cipreses at Los Ñadis.
252
Prepare your own home-baked bread, Patagonia style.
254
On horseback, to El Saltón and Corte San Carlos.
256
Best practices for horse riding in Patagonia.
261
Summer in Patagonia means it’s time for an Asado al Palo.
263
How to prepare a Patagonian Asado al Palo.
267
You’re finally ready. Meet marvelous Mt. San Lorenzo!
268
Day hike to Cerro Mirador in the San Lorenzo Range.
269
Multisport adventure to the Calluqueo Glacier.
Dwell within Glaciers,
Fiords and Rivers.
The final Stage of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit (274.7 Km), traverses high
mountain passes, hanging glaciers, the fiords of the Pacific, lush native forests, and
raging rivers, making its way through some of the most incredible natural settings
on Earth. Although this entire Circuit offers amazing natural beauty, if you are
a lover of the colors green and blue, you have definitely saved the best for last!
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CHAPTER 5 Stage 4 - Dwell within Glaciers, Fiords, and Rivers.
The setting for this final Stage of your
adventure is the Capitan Prat Province of
Chile, her eighth largest Province, but the
most sparsely populated on the continent.
That means large tracks of uninterrupted
nature, in its purest form! This Stage of the
Circuit is home to Chile’s most powerful
river, the mighty Baker, portions of the
Northern and Southern Patagonia Ice Fields,
San Rafael Lagoon National Park, Bernardo
O’Higgins National Park, Tamango National
Reserve, Laguna Caiquenes and San
Lorenzo Conservation Areas, the private
Patagonia Park, historic monuments such
as Caleta Tortel and the Isla de los Muertos
and much more. Some of the dozens of
major glaciers in the Province include El
Tigre, El Mosco, Bernardo O’Higgins, Jorge
Montt, Steffen, Calluqueo, San Lorenzo,
Bravo, and Chico. There are also a number
of important cultural sites in this Stage of
the Circuit. Here, amongst such immense
natural wonder, these places and their
stories can easily fade into the setting. Seek
them out!
In Stage 4 of the Undiscovered Patagonia
Circuit, you will be traveling along some
of the newest segments of the Carretera
Austral, opened in the final years of the
20th century and the first years of the
21st. You may observe new teams of
military personnel, arriving to continue
their work with transversal roads that are
slated to open up new areas, such as the
area leading to Glacier Jorge Montt and
the Rio Mayer Border area Take time to
explore this unique area; truly one of the
last frontiers. Consider how amazing it is
to be able to travel along roads through a
geography marked by the whims of a notso-ancient glacier cap, which has left behind
an incredible legacy, filled to overflowing,
with glaciers, fiords, and rivers.
This article describes the route and each of
the five Sections of this final Stage. These
Sections can be traveled by bike in a single
day, assuming average abilities and climate
conditions. Each ends at a place where it is
possible to camp or lodge. For motorized
vehicles, it is possible to travel through
several Sections in a single day, in accordance
with your plans and preferences.
When your adventure within the
Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit
ends and you return to your
home, we ask you to leave a small
gift for this place and her people.
Please,
share
your
stories,
experiences and lessons from
your Undiscovered Patagonia
adventures via our website. It’s
important that we, and other
future travelers, have your
perspective, so we can constantly
improve our information and the
quality of our services!
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Section 4A: Villa O'Higgins – Camp Pioneer
(43.1 Km).
Taking the Carretera Austral north out
of Villa O’Higgins, you’ll travel through
a beautiful forested area before passing
the road which heads to the Mayer River
Frontier area. (This road is an interesting
detour, if you have the time.) Crossing over
the Van Schouwen Bridge, you’ll continue
on, through the Lago Cisnes Valley, which
offers great access to sandy beaches,
fantastic fishing spots, and almost always, the
chance to see black necked swan (cygnus
melancoryphus), native to this area.
After passing through the Cisnes Lake
Valley, you’ll begin to steadily climb through
forested areas, passing the trail head for the
El Tigre Glacier hike on the left side of the
road. If you’d like, you can arrange for one
of the guides in Villa O’Higgins to follow
you to this point, and take the opportunity
to hike this beautiful trail. This Section ends
at a logging camp, which we call Camp
Pioneer. You’ll note an area historically
used for harvesting firewood and building
materials. Although this area does not have
formal infrastructure, there is a nice, flat
area, where you can get well off the road
and have access to plenty of fresh water.
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Section 4B: Camp Pioneer – Puerto Bravo Dock
at Mitchell Fiord (55.2 Km).
The ride from the Antique Pioneer Camp
to the Southern Shore of the Mitchell
Fiord transverses through the mountains;
however, in general, you will descend from
the heights traveled in the previous Section,
as you make your way to the Fiords. The
scenery is magnificent, surrounding you
with views of the mountains, jetting up
from the valley floor. You’ll be immersed in
ancient forests, and accompanied by rivers,
waterfalls, and small lagoons, at every turn.
The Section ends at the Puerto Bravo Dock,
on the southern end of the Mitchell Fiord,
where there is a small visitor shelter you
can use to get out of the elements, while
waiting for the free ferry, named for Padre
Antonio Ronchi, which transports vehicles
and passengers the length of the Fiord.
The boat leaves the southern Puerto Bravo
Dock for Puerto Yungay at 11h00, 13h00,
and 17h00. The boat leaves the northern
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Puerto Yungay Dock for Puerto Bravo at
10h00, 12h00, and 15h00. In the off-season,
the boat travels less often. Specific times
can be confirmed with the Transportation
Service in Cochrane (Departamento de
Vialidad) or via the web at www.barcazas.cl.
A quick safety tip: Motorized traffic
on the section of the Carretera Austral,
between Villa O’Higgins, and the Puerto
Bravo Dock, of the Mitchell Fiord, is mainly
determined by the schedules of the ferry.
Anticipate that for the hour before each
ferry, it is much more likely you will have
vehicles along the road, traveling in both
directions; first, from the north, as ferry
passengers begin their drive to the Villa,
and next; from the south, as drivers attempt
to make the ferry in time. These vehicles
are often running late and in a hurry; not
thinking of the potential to encounter other
vehicles or bicycles! Drive defensively.
Section 4C: Puerto Bravo Dock at Mitchell Fiord
- Caleta Tortel (51.4 Km).
Crossing the Mitchell Fiord aboard the
free, forty-five minute ferry, provides a
wonderful break, with the opportunity to
experience the fiords from the perspective
of the water. Have your camera handy and
take a moment to sign the boat’s guest
book, enjoying the stories and comments
left by other travelers. Arriving in Puerto
Yungay, on the north shore of the Mitchell
Fiord, you’ll notice a small kiosk, El Peregrino
(The Pilgrim) to the left hand side. The
owners, Don Francisco Velásquez and Doña
Marta Inés Nahuel are a local couple, who
are working hard to build their dream
of offering a small hostel and café in this
remote corner of the world. Marta is
famous for her homemade baked goods
and crafts and Francisco is an expert on
the local history. It’s a great place to take a
short break before continuing on your way.
Trace Gale
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The
Carretera
Austral
continues
north, winding through the mountains,
passing through the Laguna Caiquenes
Conservation area and then down to the
crossroads leading to Caleta Tortel, (left), or
Cochrane, (right).
Patrick McGarry
NOTES
Until 2003, the only option for travelers
seeking to reach Caleta Tortel from this
point was to descend the final 23.6 Km
of the route, on board a boat, which
transported them to the docks of town.
There was no road; only rough trails
traveled by horses, livestock, and loggers.
Despite the inconvenience, both locals and
visitors enjoyed the unique experience of
descending the Baker River from Puerto
Vagabundo to the sea, astounded by the
local flora and fauna, and the exceptional
scenery around in the Bay. Arriving by boat
allowed them to greet the charming small
town made of cypress, from an organic
perspective, in contact with the waters.
Today, the majority of visitors arrive to
Caleta Tortel by the road, which ends at
a parking area. Here, the historic town of
Caleta Tortel is literally “perched” on the
hillside below, with its homes, stores, and
boardwalks, all constructed by hand and
chain saw, from local cypress wood, facing
out toward the fiords. Naturally, most
development in Caleta Tortel is shifting to
the parking lot above, where it is easier to
transport materials and people.
Nevertheless, it’s still possible to embark
on the historical river journey, which will
provide you and your travel mates with an
entirely different perspective on what Caleta
Tortel “was” and “is”, and the significance of
the Baker River for this tiny town. We highly
recommend arranging the heritage boat trip
with one of the guides listed in our Service
Directory. They will transport your gear
and luggage, and arrange the shuttle of your
vehicle. When you arrive to town by vehicle
and reach the parking area, it’s much harder
to understand the environment through
which you have traveled or put the town’s
strange orientation in the proper context.
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Section 4D: Caleta Tortel - Los Ñadis Sector
(80.7 Km).
After exploring Caleta Tortel and the
surrounding Fiords, you’ll head northeast
on the Carretera Austral. Beginning Section
4D, you’ll make a steady climb through the
mountains, on your way towards its ending
point, at a sector along the Ñadis and
Barrancoso Rivers. As you pass over the
Barrancoso River Bridge in this sector, you’ll
note a side road to the left, with signage for
several local camping areas.
Here, one of your final surprises has been
waiting. You can visit one of the local farms
along this country road, for a relaxing and
rejuvenating visit, providing a perspective
on the simple, laid-back lives of rural
Patagonia. For example, a short 10 Km side
trip along this road, rewards you with a visit
to Fundo Los Cipreses. At this farm, they
offer camping, a small sleeping and cooking
shelter, activities like hiking and horseback
rides, a quincho where you can arrange
for a Patagonian Asado al Palo, and a rural
kiosk, with fresh-baked breads, homemade
jams and other “essentials” you might enjoy.
Pauline Symonds
227
Section 4E: Los Ñadis Sector - Cochrane
(44.3 Km).
You’re only 44.3 kilometers from where this
whole adventure began! But, not so fast; we
have one of the best treasures of the whole
Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit to unveil in
this final Section. After a steep initial climb
leaving Los Ñadis sector, you’ll gradually
wind down through farmland and native
forests, alongside streams and rivers that
pour down into lakes nearby. Approximately
39 kilometers into this Section, you’ll note
a side road leading toward the right, with
signage to Cerro San Lorenzo.
This incredible mountain has been visible
to you during much of your trip; from
Cochrane, Valley Chacabuco, the Mayer
River sector, and for many kilometers
traveling down National Route 40, Mount
San Lorenzo, with its impressive 3,706 M
peaks, has been in your sights. But, we’ve
228
been saving it for last. It is the 2nd highest
peak in Patagonia and one of the most
beautiful places along the border between
Chile and Argentina. This mountain is very
popular with expert mountaineers, who
prepare for months and then wait in base
camps (sometimes for weeks), hoping for a
window of suitable weather that will permit
them to summit.
Now you have the chance to see its beauty
up close through a side trip to visit Glacier
Calluqueo or the high mountain base camp
at the San Lorenzo Farm. We suggest
arranging as Asado here, with Don Luis
Soto and his wife Lucy, as a final celebration
before you leave us. And upon arrival
in Cochrane, be sure and spend a few
days relaxing and enjoying the small town
atmosphere. You’ve earned it!
This ½ day touring circuit travels through amazing countryside along
the road that will eventually connect Villa O’Higgins to Argentina, through
the Mayer River border crossing. The valley remains the exclusive
turf of gauchos and Estancias, transporting you to another time.
Trace Gale
• Activity Type: 4x4 or bike tour.
• Sector: Road to Entrada Mayer
• Starting Point: From Villa O’Higgins,
head north on the Carretera Austral.
Just before the Van Schouwen Bridge
over the Mayer River (7 Km), turn right
on the side road, indicating the route to
Las Margaritas Estancia.
• Ending Point: Villa O’Higgins
• Considerations: Carry sufficient
fuel for the trip. Currently, you cannot
cross to Argentina at the border,
by vehicle. There is no bridge over
Carrera River.
• Distance: 47 Km to Entrada
Mayer Frontier Control Post; 7 more
to Christie Lake. Round-trip 108
kilometers.
• Duration: 4 - 6 hours In vehicle, 2
days by bike.
• Seasonality: All Year, depending on
road conditions
• Difficulty: Appropriate for all with a
4x4 vehicle or good biking skills.
The Route: This self-guided tour travels
the entire length of the Mayer River Valley,
ending at the Entrada Mayer Frontier Post,
an area known as the Valley of Pioneers.
Optionally, you can continue 7 Km more,
along a nearby side road, which leads to
Christie Lake. If you opt for this detour,
be sure you have a 4x4 and off-road
experience; you’ll need to cross the Pérez
River and depending on the time of year, it
can be pretty deep!
Early in your journey, you'll surely notice the
wonderful hues of blue and green shining
through crystalline waters, in the narrows
of La Clara Lake. These unique hues are
produced by the bright sands along the
rocky bottom of the lake. A few hundred
meters before the access gate to the
Estancia las Margaritas, you'll notice a small
rustic chapel set back amongst a clearing on
one side of the road. This chapel was built
with Canogas, an interesting architectural
technique, commonly used in the early days
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of the Region; trees were split lengthwise,
hollowed out, and layered in an alternating
pattern, to form a roof line. The chapel is
one of Father Antonio Ronchi's community
projects, built with the help of the settlers
of Villa O’Higgins and the Mayer River. It is
located at the edge a beautiful virgin lenga
(nothofagus pumilio) forest, beside a small
freshwater stream.
The road continues through the rockier
hillsides of the valley, where you can spot
the evidence of recent glaciation, (c. 12,000
years), within the striations on the rocks.
Also, you will note slowly emerging layers
of vegetation that will eventually form
small forests. Along the route, you'll cross
two bridges over the Mayer River, a short
land bridge through a wetland area, and
a remote airstrip, before arriving at the
Frontier Border Post. Imagine how hard it
must have been to travel through this rough
and wild territory, before these kinds of
infrastructure were in place!
at an overlook, along the shore of Christie
Lake. This is a great place to camp, and, for
now, your turnaround point. Head back to
Villa O’Higgins along the same roads, which
will undoubtedly seem different, with the
changing intensity of Patagonia sunlight
during the day. As you head back, imagine
the hard-working pioneers and adventurers
who first crossed the borders here, charting
the relief of the area’s geography, and
opening paths across these rugged, wild
peaks.
NOTES
The infrastructure at the Chilean Border
Post seems almost to be “overkill”,
considering only a few hundred people
cross here each year. Yet, much is required
to maintain a remote frontier in the middle
of Patagonia. There are storehouses for
hay, which is harvested in late summer and
used all winter to feed the horses used for
patrol trips. The border control officers at
the Rio Mayer Post make regular visits to
the isolated farms of the settlers who make
their lives in the surrounding mountains. At
least once a month, they try to visit each
settler, sharing news, giving them information
about weather conditions and bringing mail
or messages from town.
Leaving the Frontier Post, you can return
toward Villa O'Higgins or detour along
the completed portion of the future road
between Rio Mayer and the area around
Cerro San Lorenzo, near the town of
Cochrane. The Frontier Post officers can
instruct you where to turn and advise you
on the conditions and feasibility for crossing
the Pérez River with your vehicle. Beyond
the crossing, you'll follow the Pérez River
west, passing several beautiful waterfalls and
small lagoons, before the road ends (7 Km)
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Trace Gale
Catch a Tiger by the Tail.
This 7 Km, round-trip, guided hiking excursion, climbs up to the El
Tigre Glacier, along a trail which begins 24 Km north of Villa O’Higgins.
This hike allows you to develop first-hand understanding of the
footprint, left by glaciers, as they move through a landscape.
Cristian Solis
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Activity Type: Hiking
Sector: Lake Cisnes Valley
Starting Point: Villa O’Higgins
Ending Point: Villa O’Higgins
Considerations: This route is not
well-marked. We recommend hiking
this route with a guide, from Villa
O’Higgins, who can direct you and
interpret the natural history of the
area, including the glacial tracks that are
visible during the entire hike.
Distance: 6 Km, out and back.
Duration: 7 hours
Seasonality: November to April
Difficulty: The trail is not technical,
but it is very steep the entire way, until
you reach the top.
The Route: The trail head, marked with
a sign, is along the Carretera Austral, 24
kilometers north of Villa O’Higgins. The hike
begins by traversing upward, along a wide,
steep trail. Although the ascent is a steep,
constant slope, there are plenty of spots
to rest and look out over the Lake Cisnes
Valley, with its beautiful landscapes. The trail
becomes less clear as you reach the midmountain; however, the area is open and
clean, and your guide should be very familiar
with the route.
It takes around 2½ hours to reach the
top, (1,000 M), where you be rewarded
with views of the El Tigre Glacier and its
turquoise lagoon. Here, the hike levels
off. As you get closer to the glacier, you
will see the striations, or stripes, that have
formed on the rock walls on one side of the
narrow valley, marking the direction that the
glacier’s ice followed, as it descended along
its course.
Throughout this hike, there are great photo
opportunities, wonderful landscapes, and
plenty of places for resting. When you feel it
is time to return, you can go back using the
same trail. The going is faster, as you'll be
descending the entire route, accompanied
by spectacular 360° views of the valley and
memories of the ice, hidden above.
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During your time in this Stage of the
Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit, you will
see many geographical features; which, have
been formed by glaciation; especially on the
higher areas of the mountains, where the
granite is scared with gigantic stretch marks,
left by the ice. You can also spot random
boulders and rocks, in the middle of fields
or forests, called erratics; left behind during
the ice’s retreat after the last glacial period.
As you descend down into the Valley, notice
the signs of the changes that have occurred
in this ecosystem over the previous 12,000
years. The trail you used for reaching the
El Tigre Glacier was formed by the ice
as it slowly carved its route across the
hillside. As you descend, leaving the ice,
you will notice a gradual change from
bare rocks to rocks covered by lichen and
moss. Next, you'll reach areas with tiny
flowers, and then, stunted lenga (nothofagus
pumilio) trees, which will get bigger as
you continue. By the time you reach the
valley, you will be surrounded by enormous
coigües, (nothofagus dombeyi), thick forest
undergrowth, ferns, and mosses. Always, the
presence of water is nearby, carrying rich
glacial sediments that provide the nutrients
and base for biodiversity of the wetlands.
Cristian Solis
232
Cristian Solis
NOTES
Encounter Hidden Treasures.
The area surrounding the Caiquenes Lagoon is a public Nature Reserve
and Conservation Area, managed by the AUMEN Foundation, which puts
heavy emphasis on scientific research. Located on the road between Puerto
Yungay and Caleta Tortel, this is a landscape that merits a closer look!
Cristian Solis
• Activity Type: Observation Walk •
• Sector: Laguna Caiquenes, along the
road from Puerto Yungay
• Starting Point: Puerto Yungay or
Caleta Tortel
• Ending Point: Puerto Yungay or
Caleta Tortel
• Considerations: Aumen has great
information and guides for the Flora
and Fauna of the Conservation Area
on their website. It is important to let
them know that you visited, so that
they can monitor public interest. There
are no marked paths in the reserve
and a large part of the area consists of
wetlands, and therefore is very fragile. It
is extremely important that you tread
lightly in this Conservation Area; leaving
a minimal impact on nature, hopefully,
not even a trace. Please, limit your visit
to the places, indicated here, if you
are not accompanied by a guide who
works with the Conservation Area.
• Distance: 1 Km walk
Duration: 1 – 3 Hours
• Seasonality: September to May
• Difficulty: Apt for all.
Encountering Treasures: Leaving
Puerto Yungay, the route climbs the
mountain, to its pass. After 11.5 Km, you will
cross a bridge, marking the southern limit
of the Reserve. This is an excellent place to
spot huemules (hippocamelus bisulcus), right
from the road. Another 1.4 Km, at the top
of the pass, there are wonderful views of
the Valley in both directions. On a clear
day, you can see to the Mitchell Fiord to the
south, and the Valley of the Baker River to
the north.
This is another good place to stop. Here,
you can leave your vehicle, and continue
on foot for around 200 M, where you will
find an observation tower, on the east of
the road. This tower can accommodate
up to 4 people, and offers the possibility
to spot huemules (hippocamelus bisulcus),
233
Andean condors (vultur gryphus), and
diverse waterfowl. Vegetation, in the
wetlands around the lakes, is composed
of a mix of astelia (astelia pumilia),
donatia moss (donatia fascicularis), mirto
(myrteola nummularia), murtilla (empetrum
rubrum), and flowering junco grass (juncul
grandiflorus). Surrounding these areas you
will find coigüe (nothofagus dombeyi) forests,
in the valley, and a stunted ñire (nothofagus
antarcticus) forest, high above. These
habitats are home for approximately 23
species of birds, mainly forest and lake birds,
which can be observed from the tower, the
road or, if you are with a guide, by advancing
some steps into the forest.
North of the pass, and west of the road,
there are three connected lakes. The
marshy conditions, mix of wetland plants,
and abundant forest streams, are ideal for
amphibian life. At least four uncommon
species can be found here; the Puerto Edén
frog (bufo variegatus), the southern patted
frog (alsodes australis), the white lagoon
creeper (atelognathus antartantica), and the
speckled frog (batrachyla antartandica). They
are not easy to spot, and surprisingly, the
strategic position is right next to the road, in
the ditches and drainages. If you see them,
avoid touching them. Listening, is another
fun way to observe the amphibians. If you
Evelyn Pfeiffer
234
visit at night, it is very easy: just park, turn
off the engine, and walk along the road. You
will hear a variety of interesting songs and
sounds.
The Bosque Encantado, (Enchanted
Forest) Sector is a very fragile forest, home
to diverse varieties of fungus and moss.
You’ll especially want to help conserve
these important plants, as they absorb
tremendous amounts of carbon, helping
to offset the impacts of travel and other
human energy use. There are more than
75 species in total, and more than 30 are
endemic of Southern Chile. To see some,
you can explore the area between the road
and the north end of the lake, maintaining
care not to damage the vegetation. The use
of magnifying glasses in this forest provides
a gateway into another world filled with
shapes and colors, very difficult to see
without the glass’s help.
From the Bosque Encantado, head a bit
further down the road and you will pass a
beautiful stream, forming the northern limit
of the Conservation Area. From here, it’s
18 Km to the crossroads, and the route to
Caleta Tortel.
NOTES
There were no roads to Caleta Tortel until 2003. Thus, settlers relied
on the mighty Baker River to arrive. Recreate this historic tradition,
by traveling the final kilometers to Caleta Tortel, aboard a wooden,
locally-crafted launch. The luxury of having your luggage transported
to the dock, closest to your lodging, is a welcome bonus!
Evelyn Pfeiffer
The tiny coastal town of Caleta Tortel has
been isolated from mainland Chile for
almost its entire history. The Baker River has
been its main connection to the rest of the
Aysén Region and the country. This River
has played a central role in the settlement
of Caleta Tortel, from initial 19th century
explorations, to the present day.
Why would settlers choose to
establish their entire pueblo built
on wooden walkways, hanging out
over the fiords? Because, the Baker
River was their first Carretera Austral. Until
2003, there were no roads connecting this
the Caleta with the inland. Nevertheless,
for almost 100 years,
development
and survival has depended on efficient
transportation. Caleta Tortel exists for
a single, special, slow-to-decay wood,
harvested from the ciprés of the Guaitecas
(pilgerodendron uviferum), native to this
sector of the Fiords. This wood has been
used throughout recent history in Patagonia;
for artwork, for construction; and especially;
for the posts supporting thousands of
kilometers of fencing, telephone poles, and
power lines, throughout the Regions of
Aysén and Magallanes. These posts were
cut from forests throughout this area and
transported by oxen or floated down
the Baker River, to wait on the docks of
the Caleta. Later, they were transferred
through the fiords, aboard military barges
and hand-crafted, wooden boats, built by
local residents.
As loads piled up, awaiting transfer, owners
wanted to be close by. This wood was
valuable, and it was hard to differentiate
between one post and another! Thus, a
town began to slowly emerge, perched high
above the Caleta, in position to keep a close
eye on precious inventories, amassing on
the docks below. The only way to facilitate
movement through the steep, marshy
terrain, was through wooden walkways,
suspended along the mountainside.
Now, things are changing in Caleta Tortel.
The Carretera Austral extends to the
Caleta’s edge, ending in a parking lot. This
new access has replaced the need for
much of the waterway transportation, and
the town is adjusting to new ways of life.
Increasingly, families are investing in vehicles;
turning their attention beyond the fiords,
boardwalks, and STAIRS, to the road and
growing infrastructure above. When you
visit Caleta Tortel, you will encounter this
unique culture in transition, and be able to
235
understand why they made the choice to
position their town so strangely.
We suggest going a step further; arriving
to Caleta Tortel aboard a wooden launch,
in much the same way that you would
have arrived, a few decades back. This
cultural experience, will provide an intimate
connection with the heritage of the Caleta.
Several local captains offer this excursion;
you’ll park your car at one of the docks
before town and load your luggage, or bikes,
aboard. The guide will arrange to bring your
car around to the lot above town; secure
and waiting, when you are ready to leave.
• Activity Type: Heritage River Tour
• Sector: Rio Baker, between Puerto
Vagabundo and Caleta Tortel
• Starting Point 1 - Puerto
Vagabundo: 1.6 Km north of the
junction between Puerto Yungay and
Caleta Tortel. 23.6 Km north of Caleta
Tortel. From here, the cruise lasts 3 - 4
hours.
• Starting Point 2 - Sector La
Cabaña: 1 Km south of the junction
between Puerto Yungay and Caleta
Tortel. 19.5 Km north of Caleta Tortel.
400 meters west of the road. From
here, the cruise lasts 3 - 4 ½ hours.
• Starting Point 3 - Caleta
Tortel’s Airstrip: 1 Km north of
Caleta Tortel. Take the side road to the
right, just before reaching the final slope
and entrance to the parking area. From
here, the trip lasts 1 - 2 hours.
• Ending Point: The dock in Caleta
Tortel, closest to your Lodging.
• Considerations: Coordinate
your plans ahead of time, to confirm
availability and timing, with one of the
captains in the Service Directory.
• Distance: On the waterways, the
distances are approximate, as follows:
from Puerto Vagabundo = 42 Km; from
Sector La Cabaña = 38 Km; from the
Airstrip = 15 Km.
• Duration: See Starting Point
Information listed above. These times
are approximations and depend on
river and weather conditions.
236
• Difficulty: An unforgettable
experience for everyone.
The Circuit: Moving to the rhythm
of the River helps frame Caleta Tortel’s
development and culture. Life here is
closely related to the weather, the seasons,
and the natural rhythm of the environment.
On the cruise, you can spot a variety of
birds, including the ruddy-headed goose
(chloephaga rubidiceps), yellow-billed teal
(anas flavirostris), Andean condor (vultur
gryphus), and other coastal and wetland
species. You will also observe the River’s
interaction with the area, through the
erosion of the shore, and the formation
of islands and beaches. Entering the Fiord,
you will observe salinity, and water color
changes, as well as the formation of large
beaches.
The route normally includes a visit to the
Isla de los Muertos, (Island of the Dead),
and the Bajo Pisagua - Punta Casas, area;
both legendary within the history of Caleta
Tortel. Ask your guide to explain!
Cristian Solis
Welcome to Caleta Tortel –
Unique Patagonian Heritage.
With its quirky architecture and picturesque boardwalks, Caleta
Tortel is sure to be one of the milestones of your journey through
Undiscovered Patagonia. Caleta Tortel is a magical village, which
almost hangs from the slopes of the mountains rising around it.
Cristian Solis
Leave you vehicle above and head
down the stairs. There are more
than 15 Km of pedestrian boardwalks and
stairways, winding their way through the
maze of houses and shops in Caleta Tortel,
all made from native wood, from the ciprés
(cypress) de las Guaitecas (pilgerodendron
uviferum). Its incredibly sweet scent, rich
aesthetic beauty, and special durability, have
all contributed to the demand for native
cypress harvesting and export; the basis of
the local economy in Caleta Tortel. In fact,
it is perhaps the only coastal town in the
fiords of Patagonia, that does not base it’s
livelihood on fishing.
Caleta Tortel is located 462 kilometers
southwest of the city of Coyhaique, and
2,237 kilometers south of Santiago, in the
lush, ancient forests, between the Northern
and Southern Patagonia Ice Fields. The village
began to develop in 1955, when pioneers
migrated to the area in search of new
farming and fishing opportunities. Instead,
they found a more profitable business; the
extraction of Guaitecas Cypress timber,
exported south to the region of Magallanes
where it was used for telegraph poles and
fence posts. The Chilean Navy moved the
timber between the areas; establishing the
town of Caleta Tortel, which is named for
Naval Officer Juan José Tortel, (1763-1842).
Caleta Tortel is enveloped in a
heavy wrapping of flora; generally
sprinkled with forested areas, comprised
of ciprés of the Guaitecas (pilgerodendron
uviferum), coigüe (nothofagus dombeyi), notro
(embothrium coccineum) and a mix of short
leafed mañío (saxegothaea conspicua) and
needle Leaf mañío (podocarpus nubigenus).
Add in a LOT of small, and not so small, ferns,
237
interior of the country was to travel by
boat. Traditionally, wooden ferries floated
the lower sections of the Baker River, leaving
from a section called Puerto Vagabundo, and
sailing down river into the fiords, rounding
the inlet to reach the docks of Caleta Tortel.
Things to do:
Explore the boardwalks: At a
minimum, you should walk the entire length
once. You’ll travel through the waterfront
area of town, providing opportunities
to immerse yourself in the beautiful
surroundings
Patrick McGarry
mosses, lichens, and forest undergrowth,
and you have all the ingredients needed, to
generate the lush natural environment you
will encounter along the boardwalks and
trails of Tortel, filling your sight with every
hue of green imaginable.
SO, here’s a big question...How
do they maintain all of those
kilometers of wooden walkways
and stairs? Well, it’s a year-round, full
time effort to be sure. As with anything
else, the Municipality forms contracts with
companies; however, many local residents
work for these firms, in the construction
and care of the boardwalks. And, from
time to time, they have volunteer help,
from places you might never imagine! For
example, in 2000 and 2001, both Prince
William and Kate Middleton, spent time
in Caleta Tortel, as part of their gap-year
experiences, working alongside Tortelinos,
to repair and expand, this unique heritage.
If your interested in pitching in during you’re
trip, stop by the Municipality in the center
of town and ask for a paintbrush. JUST
KIDDING.
Prior to 2003, when Caleta Tortel was finally
connected with the Carretera Austral, the
only option for accessing town from the
238
Bernardo
O'Higgins
National
Park: This is territory dominated by the
mysterious, still largely uncharted, Southern
Patagonia Ice Field. The park begins in
the Aysén Region and extends into the
Magallanes Region, spanning 3.524.648
hectares, to be precise. It is of great scientific
interest, due to the diversity of its wildlife, its
glaciers and its indigenous settlements. One
of the last Kawéskar communities lives along
the border of these protected lands.
Baker River: The most powerful river in
Chile, and one of the most beautiful in the
world. You can navigate the Baker River and
arrive to the Caleta by boat. The historic
½ day trip travels through landscapes, rich
in flora and fauna, and puts you right in
the middle of this wonderful River, with its
wide range of recreational opportunities,
including kayaking, fly-fishing, wildlife
observation, and rafting.
Steffen Glacier: Located in San Rafael
Lagoon National Park, on the western
edge of the Northern Patagonia Ice Field.
Possibilities include a 2½ hour boat trip,
combined with a 2 hour hike through the
forested edge of the Park.
Katalalixar National Reserve: This
National Reserve, with an area of 624,500
hectares, is one of the most pristine
wilderness areas left in the world, filled
with scrub forests, composed of the Chiloe
coigüe (nothofagus nitida), short leafed
mañío (saxegothaea conspicua), needle leaf
mañío (podocarpus nubigenus), and tepú
(tepualia stipularis). Within the Reserve,
you will find a CONAF (National Forest
Corporation) shelter for camping. Check
with Noel Vidal, captain of the Paz Austral,
who offers this excursion. He transports sea
kayaks aboard, providing an added twist.
Pascua River: Originating on the eastern
side of O'Higgins Lake, this river eventually
empties into the Calen Fiord, where you
can access Quetru Lake and the Jorge
Montt Glacier. The sector is surrounded
by lush vegetation, providing the perfect
surroundings for back-country water and
land excursions. Local farmers provide
rustic accommodations and services on an
informal basis, including the chance to try
local flavors, and traditional recipes for jams,
and cheeses. You can access this sector by
boat from Caleta Tortel, during a trip, which
last approximately 5 hours.
and the ice; and of course, practice your
photography.
Island of the Dead: Located on the
banks of the Baker River, this historic site
was declared a National Monument in
2001. The Island houses a hidden graveyard;
shrouded in mystery. According to legend,
the 100+ graves on the Island were all
established at roughly the same time, during
the winter of 1906, indicating some sort of
terrible tragedy; which, to this day, remains
a secret. It is accessible from Caleta Tortel
through short 2 – 3 hour navigation circuits.
NOTES
Quetru Lake: Quetru Lake is known for
its calm waters, sheltered from the wind,
and very good recreational trout fishing. It
has steep banks, and dense native forests,
comprised of ciprés of the Guaitecas
(pilgerodendrum uviferum) and Magellan
coigüe (nothofagus betuloides), making
access a challenge. Local farmers offer
informal accommodations in their homes
and traditional Patagonian Asados, featuring
lamb, beef, and fresh salmon. The sector
offers boating, sport fishing, horseback
riding, hiking, wildlife observation, and
photography.
Jorge Montt Glacier: This Glacier
descends into the fiords from the Southern
Ice Field, the largest ice mass in the
southern hemisphere, excluding Antarctica.
It comprises more than 14,000 Km2 and
measures 350 Km in length. The Jorge
Montt Glacier is part of Bernardo O'Higgins
National Park. This coast, in this sector,
has been inhabited by nomadic peoples,
called Kawéskar, for more than 6,000 years.
While only small populations of Kawéskar
descendants remain, near the tiny village of
Puerto Eden, in the Magallanes Region, they
maintain much of their people’s traditional
ways of life. You can visit the Jorge Montt
Glacier by boat, leaving from Caleta Tortel.
Once there, you can enjoy kayaking,
trekking, and camping; observe the wildlife
Keith Bosak
239
Evelyn Pfeiffer
240
“Orienteer” your way
along the boardwalks.
This fun game provides you with an interesting morning or afternoon of
sightseeing in Caleta Tortel.You’ll visit 18 different local places of interest,
leading you along the boardwalks of town, in a geographical scavenger hunt.
Trace Gale
Walking through the boardwalks and
stairways of Caleta Tortel is the best way to
understand this small town, its people, and
how they managed to develop their unique
culture, and style. This activity is provides
some direction for exploring the walkways
and natural surroundings of Caleta Tortel.
It is very similar to the sport known as
Orienteering, or, Geo-caching; which
consists of completing a certain route,
individually or in groups, looking for places
of particular interest, by using geographic
orientation tools, such as maps, or a GPS
device.
In this particular circuit, there are 18
identified places (buildings, natural areas,
cultural spots, and other curiosities). You set
your rules; choose to visit just some of the
recommended spots, or cover the whole
circuit. The challenge is to learn more about
each particular place you will visit. The
answers will be evident in some spots. In
others, you will have to be more observant.
We encourage you to look around, to read,
to talk with locals, to ask questions, etc, in
order to get your answer.
• Activity Type: Exploring, using clues
and GPS orientation.
• Sector: Caleta Tortel
• Starting Point: Any place in Tortel.
• Ending Point: Any place in Tortel.
• Considerations: The circuit follows
the boardwalks and public trails. You’ll
need access to a GPS, or map.
• Distance: Up to 7 Km
• Duration: 1 – 4 hours.
• Difficulty: Great for families!
The Game: Begin anywhere along the
boardwalks in Caleta Tortel. Choose one
of the challenges below, and using your GPS,
or a map, find the place. Work together to
try and answer the questions. You'll need
to look around for clues, ask a passerby, and
pay attention!
Here are some fun twists you can
241
himself? Hint: Look for the monument
carved in wood at these coordinates: LAT: S
47°48'03''& LON: W073°32'11''.
Challenge #2: What is the most
important tree for the people living in
Caleta Tortel? Hint: Look for the dock
and sign, with Caleta Tortel’s historical
description, at these coordinates: LAT: S
47°48'14'' & LON: W073°32'13''.
Challenge #3: What was the main
transportation for the Kawéskar and, how
many tiles are there on the roof of the
“Plaza”? Hint: Look for the Kawéskar
sculpture and Plaza Kawéskar at these
coordinates: LAT: S 47°48'14'' & LON:
W073°32'18''.
Trace Gale
incorporate to make your own
version of the Orienteering game:
• Take pictures of each place and post
them on the Undiscovered Patagonia
website.
• Buy a sample of local wooden
handicrafts somewhere along the way.
• Count the number of stairs you walk.
• Feel the sea with your hands.
• Spot the highest walkway in town.
• Count or try to identify the different
birds you see along the way.
A fun way to finish the game is to hike the
Las Bandera Trail, which takes you way up
to the top of the mountain behind town,
providing a new perspective on the sector,
with great aerial views. If you decide to take
this hike, you should plan things, so that you
have at least 3 hours of daylight, some water,
and snacks. Bring a small backpack for extra
layers of clothing and dress for Patagonia
weather. You can adjust the circuit and
the physical demands to for your group’s
capacities.
The Challenges:
Challenge #1: Why is Father Antonio
Ronchi such a popular character in Caleta
Tortel? What did Father Ronchi call
242
Challenge #4: What does ECA stand
for? Hint: Look for the ECA grocery store
at these coordinates: LAT: S47°48'13'' &
LON: W073°32'17''.
Challenge #5: Who built this beached
barge? Hint: Look for the name on the
remains of a typical barge, in the sand at
these coordinates: LAT: S47°48'13'' & LON:
W073°32'19''.
Challenge #6: Can you identify at least
5 different plants or trees? Hint: Look
for the boardwalk sector with abundant
vegetation and flora, at these coordinates:
LAT: S47°48'13'' & LON: W073°32'19''.
(and bring a book on flora!)
Challenge #7: How many steps lead
to the antennae area? Hint: Look for the
boardwalk junction and the long stairway
leading straight up, at these coordinates:
LAT: S47°48'14'' & LON: W073°32'21''.
Challenge #8: What is the purpose of so
many antennae, and, can you spot the Isla de
los Muertos and Rio Baker’s mouth? Hint:
Look for the overlook and mossy area, near
the antennae, at these coordinates: LAT:
S47°48'11'' & LON: W073°32'27''. From
here, you can discover the answers to the
antennae mystery and spot the Island of
the Dead. It’s the most distant island in
the same sector as the mouth of the Baker
River.
Challenge #9: Can you spot a tiny
carnivorous plant, named the Violetilla of
the Marshes, (Drosera Uniflora)? Hint: Look
close to the ground for red plants with
tiny teeth, near the boardwalk sector, with
abundant vegetation, at these coordinates:
LAT: S47°48'14'' & LON: W073°32'20''.
burned through this area many decades ago.
How many cypress trees can you observe,
in the sector of the coordinates: LAT:
S47°48'06'' & LON: W073°32'51''? Also,
what other species of flora can live in the
same area as cypresses?
Challenge #10: What does CIEP stand
for and why are they in Caleta Tortel? Hint:
Look for the CIEP Laboratory, at these
coordinates: LAT: S47°48'13'' & LON:
W073°32'19''. Stop in and ask about their
research!
Challenge #16: Can you estimate the
height of Cerro La Bandera? Hint: Walk
to the summit, located at these coordinates:
LAT: S47°47'38''& LON: W73°32'13", and
take an altitude reading, on your GPS.
Challenge #11: Who were some of the
original families in Caleta Tortel, to make a
living out of cypress? Hint: Look for the
Square commemorating important families,
for the cypress industry, at these coordinates:
LAT: S47°48'18'' & LON: W073°32'26''.
Challenge #12: In this house, clothes
and blankets are made from local materials.
Can you identify the materials? Also, there
is another thing being made nearby, that
uses local materials. Can you identify this
item? Hint: Look for the wooden house, at
W073°32'25''.
Challenge #17: How many houses are
there in Caleta Tortel? Hint: You can count
the houses in Caleta Tortel from the Cerro
la Bandera overlook, at these coordinates:
LAT: S47°47'42'' & LON: W073°32'14''.
Challenge #18: Can you identify some
of the community services and agencies,
present in Caleta Tortel? Hint: Look
around you, at the buildings and signs, at
S47°47'45''.
Challenge #13: A canoga is a hollowed
out tree trunk cut lengthwise. In the early
days of Patagonia, roofs were built by
overlapping conogas. Can you find an
example of Canogas in Caleta Tortel? Hint:
Look for the old house, at these coordinates:
LAT: S47°48'16'' & LON: W073°32'48''.
Challenge #14: Can you identify what
makes the ground in this area, so moist?
Hint: Look for the end of the Junquillo
Sector walkway, at these coordinates: LAT:
S47°48'11'' & LON: W073°32'52''.
Challenge #15: A ciprés of the Guaitecas
(cypress) tree can reach a maximal height
of more than 20 meters; and, in some
exceptional cases, even as tall as 40 meters,
with a diameter of approximately one
meter. The Guaitecas Cypress is currently
a protected species, and as a result, it is
illegal to cut down healthy cypresses. The
cypresses obtained in Caleta Tortel are
recycled. Harvesters only cut cypress that
are damaged and dead, from the fires that
Carolyn Rojas
243
This is a beautiful, short, self-guided hike, that leads you high
above Caleta Tortel, to the top of Cerro La Bandera, offering
great views of the Baker River, and Tortel Bay.
•
•
•
•
Evelyn Pfeiffer
• Sector: Cerro La Bandera
• Starting Point: You can access this
trail from the boardwalks, 200 meters
from the school, along the walkway;
which, leads to the airstrip, or at the
Junquillos Sector, on the far end of
town, where the municipal walkway
ends.
• Ending Point: The trail descends
back to the boardwalk at the opposite
end of town from where you started.
You can make your way back along the
boardwalks to your start point.
• Considerations: In the spring, the
higher altitudes of Cerro La Bandera
become a giant “sponge” absorbing
tremendous amount of water, and
providing a natural filtering system.
Walking conditions, during these times,
are “bog like”. Some of the bed &
breakfasts in town have rubber boots
244
for guests to borrow. We suggest their
use during this time of year.
Distance: 2 Km, 600 M.
Duration: 2 – 3 hours
Seasonality: Year-round, if you have
rubber boots!
Difficulty: Suitable for all hikers.
The Circuit: After a while on the
boardwalks of Caleta Tortel, the beauty
of the natural environment may have you
yearning to be in closer contact. This hike is
the perfect mix of both. It takes visitors past
the main areas of town, and then sends them
way above, to the top of Cerro La Bandera,
along a well-marked trail that provides
breathtaking panoramas, and fascinating upclose views, of the unique flora. The circuit
is circular, which is why, it can be started
at any point in Caleta Tortel, and walked in
either direction. We recommend starting in
the area near the school and the parking lot,
and hiking in a clockwise manner, because
the trail head is easier to encounter. You’ll
walk along the boardwalk leading to the
airstrip, and approximately 200 meters
after the school, you will find the signage
indicating the trail which heads up to the
left. It's well marked.
The trail begins and ends, with sections
of raised wooden planks, which help you
navigate the particularly boggy areas. Once
you reach the top, the area becomes rocky
and flat, making it easier to navigate via trails
on the ground. Arrows mark the route,
and several different overlooks, from which
you can spot the Baker River Delta, lots of
islands and canals, the Pisagua waterfall and
the airstrip, by the river. Once you complete
the trail portion, you will descend back to
the boardwalk, on the opposite side of town
from where you began. Complete your
circuit, returning along the walkways, until
reaching your starting point.
The route travels through very humid
peat areas, where there are enormous
ferns, and plants with giant, umbrella-type
leaves, called nalca, or pangue, (gunnera
tinctoria). There are also cypress forests,
and moss fields. You will see lots of bird
life and hear tiny frogs croaking. There are
four frog species found in the area: Puerto
Edén frog (bufo variegatus), southern patted
frog (alsodes australis), white lagoon creeper
(atelognathus antartantica), and the speckled
frog (batrachyla antartandica). These little
critters are not easy to spot, but if you
should be lucky enough to see one, please
avoid touching them.
can find one, and definitely, a flora-fauna
field guide.
Practical tips: Dress properly for rainy
weather. Please, do not throw your garbage
in the cans located at the overlooks, as it
can blow away, or be eaten by wild animals.
Carry your garbage down with you and
dispose of it, in the receptacles in town.
NOTES
An attentive eye can spot small carnivorous
plants called violetillas of the marshes
(drosera uniflora), the bright red flowers of
the coicopihue (philesia magellanica), which
are very similar in shape to the national
flower of Chile, the copihue (lapageria
rosea), and a wide variety of lichens, mosses,
and small fosforitos (senecio candicans),
In the Junquillo Sector, you'll pass through
a second-growth forest of ciprés of the
Guaitecas (pilgerodendron uviferum), where
you might be lucky enough to spot a unique
variety of night butterflies. Considering the
amazing flora, fauna and sightseeing this area
offers, we suggest that you take binoculars
and maybe even a magnifying glass, if you
Evelyn Pfeiffer
245
A boat ride to the Dark Side.
Wish to see a little more of Caleta Tortel than the boardwalks? This short, 2 hour,
boat excursion, explores one of the “darker” moments in the history of the Sector.
company; however, the official cause of
death has never been determined. There
are several captains in Caleta Tortel offering
this trip, aboard traditional wooden boats
built in the pueblo, from native ciprés of
the Guaitecas (pilgerodendron uviferum). Normally, these boats take groups of up to
10 people to visit this tiny island, south of
the Tortel’s Bay. Keith Bosak
• Activity Type: Boat Tour with a
short walk through the forest along
boardwalks.
• Sector: Rio Baker and Caleta Tortel
• Starting Point: Caleta Tortel Docks
• Ending Point: Caleta Tortel Docks
• Considerations: Make reservations
in advance with one of the captains
listed in the Service Directory.
• Distance: 10 Km
• Difficulty: Easy. Great for everyone.
The Route: The Isla de los Muertos,
(Island of the Dead), is a National Historic
Monument, that marks the graves of
approximately 120 workers of the
Explotadora del Baker logging company,
who died under a “cloud of controversy”,
in 1906. Many believe the workers were
victims of foul play, on the part of the
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During your visit, you’ll walk through a dense
forest of cypress, along a raised boardwalk,
which leads to the cemetery, hidden in a
dense undergrowth of ferns, nalca, (gunnera
tinctoria), and other native flora. You will
find about 120 graves, marked with carved
crosses of ancient cypress and the names
and dates of the deceased. No one knows
who is responsible for the burials, markers,
or carvings; this adds yet another layer to the
dark mystery, shrouding the Isle. Normally,
after visiting the Island, the excursion makes
a side trip to the mouth of the Baker River,
where you’ll get an excellent view of the
Pisagua waterfall, before, returning to the
docks in Caleta Tortel.
Photography buffs will want to bring all
your lenses, especially zooms, to document
your experience, and capture the words
carved by mysterious, unknown persons,
so many years ago. The crosses don’t yield
the answers to the secrets of this island, but
they do document the brevity of the lives,
of several of the workers, who lived only
15 brief years.
Tour the Southern Patagonia Ice
Field and the Jorge Montt Glacier.
The Jorge Montt Glacier is one of the fastest-receding glaciers in the
world, documented at a rate of about 1 Km per year.This one or two
day trip involves a boat tour and options to visit a remote farm settled
during the days of the pioneers of the Zone. During the trip you will
have close up views of the icebergs floating in the drainage area.
Caleta Tortel is the gateway to access
many of the natural attractions of the
Northern and Southern Patagonia Ice
Fields, through the San Rafael Lagoon, and
Bernard O’Higgins, National Parks. This one
or two day trip visits Glacier Jorge Montt,
in the Southern Patagonia Ice Fields. A
bit of trivia: the Jorge Montt Glacier made
news recently, when regional authorities
discovered thieves, removing ice from the
glacier, to sell in upscale restaurants and
bars, in the northern part of Chile!
• Activity Type: Navigation and
optional visit to a remote farm.
• Sector: Bernardo O’Higgins National
Park
• Starting Point: Docks, Caleta Tortel
• Ending Point: Dock, Caleta Tortel
• Considerations: Proximity of
access is determined by the boat
•
•
•
•
captains; foul weather will prevent a
safe passage to the glacier. In order to
increase odds of having a successful
visit, allow at least two days in your
itinerary, to accommodate bad weather
cancellations. You can reserve your trip
through one of the captains listed in the
Service Directory.
Distance: approximately 100 Km in
boat, round trip.
Duration: 12 - 36 hrs.
Seasonality: November - April
Difficulty: Trip is suitable for all.
The Excursion: The boat trip through
the fiords surrounding Caleta Tortel, takes 3
to 4 hours, each way. You are likely to spot a
variety of bird life and sea mammals. As you
approach the bay, you will enter a surreal
land of icebergs and the isolated area where
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the Landeros rural farm is located. As you
arrive at the beach, it is likely that you will
be met by Don Iryan Landeros and his wife
Delia Sepuveda, who still live in their farm
on the edge of Bernardo O’Higgins National
Park, where they raise a small herd of cattle.
Up to 7 guests are welcome to stay with
them, in their rural hospedaje, overlooking
the Fiords.
www.destinopatagnia.cl
248
Here, you can explore the farm, looking
for all of the best overlooks for the glacier.
You can pitch in with the daily chores, learn
to prepare homemade breads and enjoy
other local meals cooked by Delia, or simply
disconnect and immerse yourself in the
surreal landscapes.
www.destinopatagnia.cl
Explore the Northern Patagonia
Ice Field and the Steffen Glacier.
Caleta Tortel is the gateway to many natural attractions within the Northern
Ice Field and Laguna San Rafael Lagoon National Park.This trip explores
the Steffen Glacier Valley, located at the southern corner of the park.
The Northern Patagonian Ice Field covers
an area of 4,200

Km², and is completely
protected, within the San Rafael Lagoon
National Park, in the Aysén Region of Chile.
Its largest section of ice is 120 Km wide, and
70 Km long! The Park is home to some
of the Region's most important mountain
peaks and glaciers, like Mount San Valentín,
the highest peak of Patagonia, and the
Steffen, Exploradores, Nef, Leones, Solar, and
San Rafael Lagoon Glaciers. From Caleta
Tortel, you can access the southernmost
corner of this vast expanse of ice within a
few hours; specifically, the Steffen Glacier,
and Valley, named for the German explorer
and geographer, Hans Steffen, who was one
of the first to explore the Region, around
1900.
• Type of Activity: Boat trip with
options for hiking (exploration style)
and camping.
• Sector: San Rafael Lagoon National
Park
• Start Point: Docks, Caleta Tortel
• End Point: Docks, Caleta Tortel
• Considerations: You will need
to register your visit and pay the
National Park entrance fee in the
CONAF offices in Tortel. Proximity
of access is determined by the boat
captains; foul weather will prevent a
safe passage to the glacier. In order to
increase odds of having a successful
visit, allow at least two days in your
itinerary, to accommodate bad weather
cancellations. You can reserve your trip
through one of the captains listed in
the Service Directory. If you are prone
to motion sickness, consider bringing
medication.
• Distance: 35 Km in boat. Hiking
is variable, based on trail conditions
and time of year. It is feasible to hike
between 6 - 20 Km.
• Duration: 10 hours - 2 days.
• Seasonality: November to April
• Difficulty: The boat trip is apt for
all. Hiking can be challenging, involving
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If you cannot safely make the crossing, due
to high water levels, the Vargas family has a
rowboat that visitors can use, to cross in
the wider sections of the river, nearby. After
crossing, the trail travels through dense
forests, making the markers a bit harder
to spot. Keep a close watch. When the
trail reaches a pronounced rock formation,
you’ll climb a small rise, which leads to
the viewpoint for the Steffen Glacier, the
moraine field, and the open Valley.
bush-whacking, wetlands and moraine.
The Route: You’ll spend a full-day
boating, aboard a partially covered vessel,
which protects visitors from the rains and
winds, often encountered in this area. The
35 Km round-trip takes around 10 hours,
depending on the style of boat. Optional
hiking requires more time; so, if you are
interested in exploration, you should
consider two days for this adventure.
On your approach, you will be surrounded
by thousands of icebergs that now fill
the waterway. These provide your first
indications of a unique world, receding
from the ice after thousands of years. Hiking
depends on the weather and the changing
conditions of the terrain, due to weather
and glacier retreat. If the mouth of the river
is flooded, you will take a wooden rowboat
to higher ground, and begin your journey
at an alternative starting point. If the water
level is low, you will start at the trail origin, a
dirt road that borders the Vargas farm.
In this changing landscape, foliage is
extremely dense. The soils are often boglike and mixed with rocky moraine. These
conditions make hiking difficult so base your
turn-around point on the conditions. You
are extremely likely to encounter huemul
(hippocamelus bisulcus) so have your camera
handy and remember not to stress the
huemul with sudden movements or loud
noises. Note potential camping locations
along the way. It can be difficult to find level
sites with soil and foliage conditions apt
for tents. You may need to return several
kilometers to establish camp. Make sure
you give yourself sufficient time.
The local CONAF staff in Caleta Tortel
are a good source of current information
regarding the trails, the landscape, presence
of huemules, and options for camping. Stop
in to their office to pay the National Park
Entrance Fee and gather information that
can be helpful in planning your exploration.
The trail leads along the road bordering the
Huemul River floodplain, and is indicated by
markers on the trees, and cairns, strategically
placed, so visitors can stay on track. You’ll
walk approximately 3 Km along this road,
before coming to the clearly marked
location for crossing the River.
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Traveling the final Sections of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit, you
will find yourself crossing a bridge over Barrancoso River, in a sector
called Los Ñadis. A short 10 Km side trip along a gravel country road
will reward you with the perfect place to relax, unwind, and experience
a bit of Patagonian farm life, in an incredible natural setting.
In the bend of the road, just past the
bridge over the Barrancoso River, you'll
notice signage for Camping at Fundo Los
Cipreses. Turn off along this gravel country
road, and take the detour 6 Km, passing
through livestock gates, to the small bridge
over the Ñadis River. Cross the suspension
bridge and continues 3 Km to this beautiful
farm, which offers a small shelter, complete
with an equipped kitchen and area to relax.
The shelter has four single beds, and great
spaces outside if you prefer camping. There
is food for purchase in their “rural kiosk”, and
hot showers. The farm has also a quincho,
which is a traditional type of building in
Patagonia, built so that people have shelter
from the weather while barbecuing, which
here, means having an Asado al Palo. Fundo Los Cipreses offers a place where
you can truly relax and unwind after your
adventures on the Carretera Austral.
Here, you will discover a bit of what it is
like to live in such a rural corner of the
world. Surrounded on all sides by the high
peaks of the Andes, hanging glaciers, and
stunning waterfalls, the farm rests in a valley,
bordering the confluence of the Baker and
Ñadis Rivers, which wind and bend along
the edges of their fields.
The Sanchez-Schindele family offers tourism
services through the Ñadis River Refuge &
Camping, from December through March
each year. Don Rosendo Sanchez was born
in the area, and is the grandson of one of
the first settlers of the Baker River sector.
Elisabeth Schindele, was born in Germany,
and decided to settle in Cochrane 15+
years ago, after discovering the area, during
a backpacking trip. Through one of life's
Pauline Symonds
odd turns, they met, married and began a
family. They have two children, Lorena and
Bernardo. Several years ago, they began
to open up their farm to visitors, offering
lodging, and horseback riding. Elisabeth
bakes delicious white and whole-grain
bread loaves, in a wood burning clay oven
her father built during one of his annual
visits from Germany. She offers them for
sale, along with homemade jams prepared
from the fruits and berries harvested on the
farm, as well as several other regional food
items. Elisabeth also offers Bread Kits, which
provide all of the raw ingredients for making
your own bread, within the wood-burning
oven of the shelter.
251
Prepare your own home-baked
bread, Patagonia style.
Perhaps, your experience within Patagonia has sparked something inside and
you’d like to try making homemade bread for yourself. It’s really not so hard; many
find it to be a relaxing way to unwind. Go ahead and unleash the baker within.
kiosk” where you can buy jars of homemade jam, and “make your own” bread
kits, with everything you need to prepare
bread, including an authentic, Patagonia style,
wood-burning oven.
Step 1: Obtain your Ingredients:
Talk with Elisabeth Schindele if you are
staying at Fundo Los Cipreses, or head
to the nearest market, to obtain these
ingredients:
•
•
•
•
½ Kilo all-purpose or bread flour
Small package of salt, at least 200 grams
Small pouch of dry yeast
Small package of sugar, at least 500
grams
• ½ Liter of Vegetable Oil
Evelyn Pfeiffer
Traveling the Undiscovered Patagonia
Circuit affords plenty of opportunities to try
all sorts of homemade, fresh-baked , breads
and rolls. In this corner of the world, making
homemade bread still plays a central role
in the daily life of many families. For many,
baking their bread involves choosing not
only the right ingredients and recipes; but
also, using the right sized logs in their woodburning stove, to get the temperature to
exactly the point, so bread will bake, but
not burn.
Perhaps, your experience within Patagonia
has sparked something inside and you’d like
to try making homemade bread for yourself.
A great place to practice is in the shelter at
Ñadis River Refuge & Camping. There, you
will find a fully equipped kitchen and a “rural
252
Step 2: Prepare your Dough: Pour
1/2 cup of warm water into a small bowl,
add 2 tablespoons of dry yeast and 1/2
teaspoon of sugar, and stir. Place the bowl
in a warm spot, but not directly on a heat
source, and let it sit for 5 minutes, to activate
the yeast. In a separate bowl, place ½ kilo
of flour and 200 grams of salt, and mix
well. Form the flour into a small, hill shape,
and make a hole in the middle. (Yes, like a
volcano.) Pour ¼ cup of oil into the hole,
and then slowly add the yeast/water mix.
Next, begin adding the remaining 1 ½ cups
of warm water.
Step 3: Work the dough: Use your
hands to begin folding the flour, and the
mixture of ingredients in the hole, together.
You’re going to do this until everything is
well blended, and the consistency of the
dough is such that, it’s not too sticky. Add
more water, if it’s too dry; and more flour,
if you feel it’s too sticky. Continue kneading
the dough, until soft. Total blending and
kneading should take you 10-15 minutes.
This blending and kneading process is the
key factor that will give your bread a light,
airy consistency, and determine its potential
to properly rise. Form the kneaded dough
into a ball, and place into a bowl. Cover
with a clean, slightly damp dishtowel, and
set in a warm place to rise. Rising will take
approximately 45 minutes.
Step 4: Baking your bread: You’ll
need to have a clean work surface, that
is large enough to roll out the dough,
approximately 1 square meter, in surface
area, will work great. Use a clean wooden
table, or a counter top. Roll the dough into
a large circle of about ¾ inch, thickness. Cut
rolls from the dough, using a upside-down
drinking glass, or a round cookie cutter, as
your mold. Place on a baking sheet with
at least 1 inch of separation, and allow to
rest for another 15 minutes, before baking.
Preheat your oven to 180º C. Bake your
rolls for 10 - 12 minutes. Turn one of your
rolls over to see if the bottom has turned a
golden brown. When this is the case, turn
all of the rolls over on the tray, returning
them to the oven for 3 -5 minutes more,
so that both sides develop this color. When
they have browned to your taste, remove
them from the oven, and let them cool
a few minutes, before starting to enjoy.
¡Buen provecho!
Evelyn Pfeiffer
A note about baking bread in a
wood-burning stove: You’ll want to
fill the firebox with logs and allow it to
get quite hot. There are no thermometers
involved - baking bread in a wood-burning
oven is an art, rather than a science; and
one that is mastered through practice. Each
oven is different, as is the case with types
and cuts of wood. Even the weather affects
the way bread bakes. As a novice, you will
want to keep a close eye on your bread as
it's baking to monitor the color and adjust
the heat accordingly.
Evelyn Pfeiffer
253
On horseback, to El Saltón
and Corte San Carlos.
This 7 hour horse trek begins from the Los Cipreses Farm, 55 Km south of
Cochrane, in the Los Ñadis sector of the Circuit. The excursion combines
landscapes and local history with the experience of traveling with a local expert.
Pauline Symonds
• Activity Type: Horseback Riding • Sector: Los Ñadis Sector, along the
Circuit, between Caleta Tortel and
Cochrane.
• Starting Point: Fundo los Cipreses
• Ending Point: Fundo los Cipreses
• Considerations: Reserve your
ride in advance, with Ñadis River
Refuge & Camping, or one of the other
Service Providers listed in the Service
Directory.
• Distance: 18 Km
• Duration: 7 hours
• Seasonality: December to March
• Difficulty: Children under the
age of ten should have prior riding
experience and opt for a shorter route,
of 2 hours or less. Fundo Los Cipreses
can accommodate families, with a route
exploring their ranch.
The Route: After a brief orientation
introducing the horses and principles
for safe riding, you’ll leave the ranch,
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accompanied by your guide, along a trail
used by settlers in the sector. You’ll travel
through forests of coigüe (nothofagus
dombeyi) and ñire (nothofagus Antarctica),
open meadows, and streams, as you follow
the trail along the shores of the Baker River.
In the distance, you will have views of the
mountains, covered with snow and glaciers.
This is a great area for bird watching. Expect
the company of buffed-neck ibis (theristicus
caudatus), southern lapwing (vanellus
chilensis), and other native, and migrating
birds, as you ride. After approximately 2
hours, you’ll start hearing, and feeling, the
thunder of the Baker River, as water crashes
against the rocks nearby. Here, you'll leave
the horses in the woods, and approach
the rapids on foot. You’ll have plenty of
time to relax, take pictures and enjoy the
breathtaking scenery of The Saltón. If you
are very lucky, you might spot huemul
(hippocamelus bisulcus); which inhabit this
area.
The Saltón was officially discovered in 1898,
on an expedition of the German geographer,
Hans Steffen, who was exploring the Baker
River, from its mouth near Caleta Tortel, to
its source in Lago Bertrand. A few years
later, the lands surrounding the Baker, were
conceded to a cattle company, for ranching.
One of the biggest challenges facing the
company, was the need to move livestock
from the grazing lands, to the Pacific. They
needed to build a trail, and pass through
this fierce section of the Baker River. Other
Estancias shared this need, and eventually,
the project to construct infrastructure
to maneuver through El Saltón, was
undertaken by Don Lucas Bridge, the
Administrator and co-owner of Estancia
Baker, in the Chacabuco Valley. Along with
a team of workers, they built El Corte San
Carlos, which you will have the opportunity
to see. You'll walk 15 minutes to visit this impressive
work, that culminates with a short tunnel,
suspended high above. The River rewards
your efforts with a wonderful panorama
of white water. And, with luck; you’ll spot
Andean condors (vultur gryphus), which
frequent the area, often coming as close
as a few meters. If you’d like, you can walk
another 10 minutes to see an exceptional
view of the next stretch of the river, which
eventually, leads to the sea. Afterwards, you'll
return to the horses, and the trail leading
back to the corral at Fundo Los Cipreses.
Pauline Symonds
NOTES
Pauline Symonds
255
Best practices for horse
riding in Patagonia.
For many visitors and residents, the words, Horse and Patagonia, are
almost synonyms. You will definitely encounter many opportunities to ride
during your time in the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit. In this article
we offer some tips from the manual, “Best Practices for horse riding
in Protected Areas”, developed by The Guide's School of Patagonia.
Pauline Symonds
The Chilean riding style is very
easy to learn, due to the generally
submissive nature of MOST
Chilean horses. The Chilean riding style
does not use special horse gaits, nor special
leg movements, to prompt the horse to go
forward, or move sideways.
are neither too long, or too short; sitting
comfortably is very important. If you
notice that your stirrups do not have the
appropriate length, as you are riding, ask
the guide, or assistant, to help you properly
adjust them. Otherwise, you may experience
knee problems.
If you don't have prior experience with
horses, keep in mind that the horses in
Patagonia, and most of the world, are
handled from their left hand side. You must
put the saddle on the horse from the left
side. Likewise, you should mount, dismount,
and lead the horse, on the left-hand side,
unless you are in terrain that prevents
safely doing so. This custom traces back to
the days when horsemen carried a sword
while riding.
Proper footwear is very important
when riding. Trekking shoes
usually have large and thick soles;
for horseback rides, it is better to
wear smooth soled shoes.
On long journeys, make sure your stirrups
256
Reins in Patagonian style riding, are carried
together, in one hand. You should switch the
reins between hands, on long rides. Reins
shouldn't be held too loose; it is important
that they impose some control over the
horse. However, it important not to place
too much pressure on the horse’s mouth,
Pauline Symonds
as a result of having the reins too taught.
Having the reins firm, and balanced, will do
the trick. Let your hand move forward on
the reins, until you have them in a place
where you can easily maneuver them to
stop, and change paces, with the horse.
Pulling on the reins, in a quick movement,
backwards, performs both commands.
paces. Walking is relaxing for both you, and
your horse; however, make sure your horse
doesn't begin to drowse. This happens at
times, and could be really dangerous on
difficult terrain. Therefore, you should make
sure that your horse is always attentive by
maintaining control and nudging it along,
constantly.
Riding means working with
impulses, using your leg muscles
to help you communicate with
your horse about what you want
him, or her, to do. Your legs should not
press constantly; as this would prompt the
horse to step forward; just stretch them out,
allowing them to rest in a relaxed position,
with your knees slightly bent and a bit
forward. If you want to move forward, or
to begin a faster pace, just press both legs
briefly against the horse's body and tap his
sides gently, with your heels. You may have
to do so two or three times, if your horse is
not so responsive, until he figures out what
your are asking.
For inexperienced riders, trotting
is the most uncomfortable pace.
One tactic that can help is posting; although
this is not commonly used amongst
gauchos. Posting works with the horse's
Chilean horses know the three basic paces:
walking, trotting, and galloping. The most
important pace, for long horsetreks, is the walk. This is for two good
reasons. First, because your horse needs
to conserve his energy, to carry you safely
for the entire trek. Second, in many places
you will be riding in Patagonia, the terrain
doesn't allow horses to travel at other
Cristian Solis
257
rhythm during the movement of the trot.
You become more active during posting,
standing up briefly in the saddle, every two
steps, so that, as the rhythm of the horse’s
gait moves his back up and down, you do
not feel the bumpy ride. It's a good idea
to choose one of the horse’s forelegs, and
use the movement of that leg as your “cue”.
Every time the horse steps forward with
this leg, you should stand up briefly, and
then immediately sit again, so you are ready
for the next step. On longer distance trots,
you should change the “cue” leg every five
minutes or so, to avoid overtaxing one side
of the horse. (It's a bit hard to explain on
paper, but easy to understand if you watch.
There are lots of videos showing the basics
of posting available on You Tube!)
The gallop is a more comfortable pace;
since, once you find a good balance, it is
easier to relax into the natural movement
of the horse. While galloping is much
more comfortable for riders, it is
also much faster than trotting, so
it requires the horse to expend
a lot more energy, and beginning
riders generally feel a bit "out of
control". One trick is to gallop in a light
position. This is less demanding for the rider
and more comfortable for the horse. Just
lean forward a little and stand down on the
Patrick McGarry
258
stirrups until you’re, just barely, not touching
the saddle. Your knees must remain tight
against the saddle to keep your balance.
If you are lucky, you will have one of the
Chilean horses capable of performing a
fourth pace, called a march, which is a
combination of walking and trotting. The
march is much faster than a walk; yet very
comfortable for riders, and less demanding
for horses. It is ideal for long horse treks!
It is very important to stop and
check that your saddle is properly
adjusted, especially before going up or
down a steep hill. As your horse exercises,
the saddle can loosen, so keep alert. Uphill
climbs are far more demanding
on your horse, than riding on flat
terrains. For this reason, you should bend
forward, in accordance with the slope, and
relax a little bit on the reins. This does not
mean you should let the reins be loose! If
the climb is steep and you and/or the horse
start to slip back, hold on to the mane;
never pull the reins as a form of supporting
yourself.
Going downhill, especially in
uneven and mountainous terrain,
demands a lot of concentration
on the part of your horse, so as
Pauline Symonds
Cristian Solis
to avoid stumbling or slipping. It is
important to relax the reins a bit, allowing
the horse the freedom to better sort out his
(and your) balance. Basically, the two
of you need to work together, as
a team. If your horse is descending too
fast, pull the reins slightly to slow him down.
Lean back, using the degree of the slope
as your guide, stretch your legs forward
in a straight position, firm in the stirrups,
and trust that your horse, and your guide,
have ample experience moving through
the mountains of Patagonia. Chilean
horses are used to going downhill
in groups, and keeping close to
one another. Do not attempt trotting or
galloping downhill, unless the slope is very
slight and the surface is firm.
If, when going up or downhill, you feel
scared or that the terrain is dangerous,
choose a safe place to stop, and if possible,
communicate with your guide that you
need his assistance. Often, your guide
will remain on horseback, even
in difficult terrain, and drive the
other horses downhill by whistling
and shouting.
If, for some reason, there is not a guide with
you, find a safe place to stop, get off your
horse, and choose one of the following
alternatives. If the path is broad enough to
lead the horse, walking on his left side, while
maintaining a safe distance on both sides of
your body (from the horse and from the
edge), lead your horse to a place you feel
more comfortable. If the path is too narrow
for this method, lead the horse from in
front, making the reins as long as possible,
so as to keep a good distance between you
and the horse.The risk involved with leading
a horse in this manner, on a steep slope, is
that the horse can fall, and injure you, as well.
Other obstacles that you may
encounter, include low hanging
tree branches, overhanging rocks,
or boulders. Horses do not compensate
their spacial judgment based on the added
requirements of riders. For this reason, you
must guide him. You should always remain
attentive to obstacles, steering around when
possible, and bending down when needed.
Be careful going through forested areas,
watching the space you will pass through,
between tree. Maintain sufficient control so
your can stop the horse, if needed.
We highly encourage you to wear
a helmet, if available, whether
your guide chooses to, or not.
Bridges also present risks; particularly, old
wooden bridges. After rainfall the surface
of these bridges tends to be water-soaked
and slippery. Lead your horse or cross
carefully; deferring to your judgment and
the directions of your guide. If you are
crossing an unstable or suspension-style
bridge, that produces movement, it is better
259
Pauline Symonds
to cross one horse at a time.
In general, remain aware of
the environment in which you
are riding, and try to recognize
possible dangers early. Groups are
generally composed of people with various
riding levels and expectations; therefore,
before heading out, your group should talk
briefly, and reach some agreements around
basic topics, including the order of horses/
riders, and the gaits you are going to use.
When riding on roads, always
remain aware of the possibility
that
you
will
encounter
approaching vehicles, animals,
and/or people. Only pass, or change
the order of horses, in wide open stretches,
where you are sure there is no oncoming
traffic or sudden barriers. Be prepared and
in position so that you can efficiently move
to a single file order, or stop at the side of
the road, if needed. If you have the option, it
is better to ride along the side of the road
that does not have a drop-off, or cliff.
It is important to keep a safe
distance between horses, when
riding in a group. As a general rule,
you should keep a horse's length distance,
between each rider/horse. When you are
riding on a level surface, you should be able
to look out over the ears of your horse and,
see the bottom section, of the back legs, of
the horse in front of you. If you can see their
260
rear hooves, it's even better. When riding
down or uphill, it is better to keep a distance
of two or three horses between riders, to
avoid hurting other horses or riders, in the
event that one horse falls or slips.
If you are required to cross a
river on horseback, make sure
your guide takes charge of the
group. He should provide you with clear
instructions about the line of the river he
wants you to cross, the order of riders,
and other situational factors. A more
experienced horse should be in front of the
group, to serve as a guide for the others.
At times, riders can get dizzy when crossing;
if this happens, look to the horizon, and if
possible, allow your feet to get wet. You can
dry them out when you get to the other
side. During the crossing, you should allow
the reins to be loose, so that your horse
can walk at his own rhythm and find his way
through the river bottom. You should
never ride your horse through
water, where he cannot touch the
bottom and must swim!
Summer in Patagonia means it’s
time for an Asado al Palo.
An Asado al Palo is a very important part of Patagonian culture and
cuisine. It’s a great summertime celebration which combines all the
things we love the most: love, family and friendship; jokes and stories;
music, wine and dancing; and of course, great food! Don’t pass
up the chance to join in at some point during your travels.
Written by Sr. Cristian Solis, son of
pioneer, Don Eduardo Solis, from the
small town of Lago Verde, Chile, which
is in the northern part of the Region of
Aysén. (cristian@geosurexpediciones.com)
I have lived here all my life. I grew up working
with my father and my cousins, on our farm,
which is in the northern part of the Region.
Now, I work in tourism, which gives me the
opportunity to share my beautiful home
and its many traditions with visitors from all
over. My hope is that you will come to love
Patagonia like I do; that you will share in our
celebrations and traditions, and help us to
conserve and protect our Region, so that it
remains intact for future generations.
When our grandfathers and greatgrandfathers came to settle Patagonia, they
quickly discovered that working these lands,
amongst the mountainous terrain and harsh
climate, required a lot of help. The easiest
and fastest way to tackle the hard work of
settling a farm in Aysén, was to join hands
with our family and neighbors, and work as
a team. Today, it’s a tradition in the Region;
for the big jobs, like branding, shearing, and
ear-tagging, we all join in, moving from farm
to farm, working together, to get the work
done.
And on each farm, when we finish our
work, we celebrate with a typical Patagonian
barbecue, which we call an Asado al Palo.
So, what’s on the menu? I thought
you’d never ask!
Spit roasted lambs,
tortas fritas with fresh pebre, two or three
different kinds of salads, boiled potatoes,
and of course, red wine! And so things go summer after summer,
farm after farm, working HARD and then
celebrating, with a great countryside feast.
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261
As soon as they reach a weight of 11 Km,
everyone in Patagonia begins to long for an
opportunity to enjoy a delicious Patagonian
Asado al Palo. During the summer months,
the demand for lambs rises 300%, especially
in December and January, when families
come together to celebrate Christmas and
New Years. A traditional, Patagonian-style
Asado al Palo, is the essential feast!
Trace Gale
And its more than food. The best Asados
are accompanied by the sounds of a guitar
and an accordion, guests joking and dancing,
and the gauchos passing around a leather
canteen, which we call a bota, filled with red
wine. And, of course, a great quincho or
fogón always helps, if the Patagonia weather
creeps in. What are they? Well, with the
crazy weather of Patagonia, we needed
an option for barbecuing inside. So, we
invented quinchos. They are sorts of rustic
party-shacks, often round, complete with
an indoor fire pit! Fogóns are the same,
but usually even more rustic. I’ve probably
helped by sisters and my cousins build 10 or
15 quinchos in my days.
A great way to celebrate your time in
Patagonia and the end of Undiscovered
Patagonia Circuit, is to take part in a
traditional Patagonian Asado. In our Service
Directory, you can find listings for the many
Farms, Quinchos, Fogóns, and restaurants,
that offer the service of an Asado al Palo
for visitors! Everyone offers their own
special twist, some with music and dancing
included! And, if your group isn’t large
enough to warrant a whole lamb, which
typically feeds 12 -13 people, you can opt
for a rack of beef ribs, or farm-made chorizo
sausages, cooked beside a campfire.
NOTES
My father always maintained, (and he still
does), a portion of his sheep, for our family’s
personal consumption during the year.
Asados were almost a staple while I was
growing up, our own sort of "party plan",
so for all of the birthdays and holidays, we
would come together, with our parents, and
share in this great tradition. The only hard
part was making the “family consumption”
sheep, last the whole season, from
December to October. During early spring in Patagonia, in the latter
days of September, the first lambs are born.
262
Trace Gale
How to prepare a Patagonian
Asado al Palo.
Believe it or not, this happens a lot.
We’re gathered around the stove, early in the morning, sharing some yerba
mates with our visitors. One of them tells us about a strange dream
they’ve had; usually it involves their great-great-grandmother’s woodstove, a purple accordion, and fresh cilantro. Weird. We put down the
mates and take them out to the barn to show them THE BIG SECRET.
Pauline Symonds
Chickens don’t live on Styrofoam
trays wrapped in plastic! After the
shock wears off and they think about it a
while, they start to get curious about a lot
of new things. The process of preparing a
lamb for an Asado seems to always come
up. So, here’s the whole story, from start
to finish. And, if this topic makes you a
bit nervous, we want you to know, here
in Patagonia, we have a saying: “Try on
whatever you want when you’re in the
store, BUT, you don’t have to buy and take
them all home! So, read on if you’ve also
had strange dreams about your great-great
grandmother lately. Then relax and enjoy
having a Patagon prepare a party in your
honor. After all, this is your vacation. Buen
provecho and salud!
To prepare a typical Patagonian Asado al
Palo, with roasted lamb, for 13 - 15 people,
the first step is to buy the ingredients. They
are the key to success!
Ingredients:
• 1, 13-15 Kg Patagonian lamb, from the
special stock set aside for family and
celebrations.
• 1 corked wine bottle of brine,
(salmuera). Take an empty Pisco bottle
and fill it with hot PATAGONIA
freshwater, add 1 bulb of chopped
garlic, 3 Tablespoons of salt, 2
Tablespoons of crushed oregano, 1
Tablespoon of pepper, a 1 Tablespoon
of Aliño Completo. You can find this
spice mix in any supermarket or food
shop. Next, carve out four “corners”
on your cork so it looks like an “X”,
and a tiny bit of liquid can get through
263
several liters, and don't bother with
bottles. Instead, fill your bota with our
everyday boxed wine; it's cheaper, and
for some reason, the leather from the
bota really brings out great flavor from
the boxed wine. • At least one Accordion (purple, if
available), and 1 Guitar.
Preparation: It is advisable to sacrifice
the lamb at least 9 hours before roasting
it, so that the meat dries and becomes
cold. This will make it much easier to put
the lamb on the asador and sear its meat,
so that once put over the fire, it keeps a
stronger flavor.
Trace Gale
•
•
•
•
•
•
264
when you turn the bottle upside down.
You’ll use your salmuera to marinate
the lamb as it cooks.
5 kg locally grown potatoes and 1 bulb
of garlic. It’s better if you can see the
actual field where these were grown,
from the quincho where you will be
eating.
A bunch of coriander, cut fresh, from
the invernadero (greenhouse), in back
of the kitchen.
½ kg lemons and 1 Tablespoon Salt
(these can come from Santiago or the
ECA)
Salads: You’ll want at least 2 or 3
options. Begin with something simple,
like fresh lettuce from the invernadero,
mixed with lemon, vegetable oil, and
salt. Moving on, the options run the
culinary spectrum, depending on what’s
fresh and ripe, and what we’re in the
mood for. In Patagonia we like to eat
salads made from grated vegetables, like
carrots and beets, and sliced vegetables,
like cucumbers and tomatoes.
Tortas fritas and Chilean Pebre
(Remember, we told you these were
perfect with Asados!)
Chilean red wine: merlot, cabernet
or carmenere. Must be served in a
"bota" (a leather canteen). Pick up
The first step is to sacrifice the
lamb: Slaughtering a lamb is one of the
oldest activities in the history of humanity;
it has existed since biblical times. If done
properly and humanely, no one should
suffer! PLEASE, if you do not know how
to humanely slaughter an animal, do not
pick your Patagonian vacation as the time
to experiment! Find a gaucho and let him,
or her, show you how it’s done. When it's
time, make sure you have a well-sharpened
knife and a flat-bottomed Pyrex glass dish,
containing chopped coriander, a tablespoon
of salt, and 4 lemon halves. 1. Hold the snout of the lamb with your
left hand. Support yourself and the
lamb, by placing your right knee on
the ground and your left knee pressing
slightly against the base of the lamb’s
shoulder and ribs. This will help you to
maintain a grip on the animal. Hold the
knife with your right hand and place it
on the curve of the jaw. Insert it firmly
and quickly, until it reaches, and cuts, the
jugular vein. That's it.
2. Let the blood empty into the Pyrex
dish, making sure not to spill. Once
you have collected enough blood, you
will be ready to start preparing lamb
“Ñachi”. This is a typical Patagonian dish,
or maybe, it's more of a custom; but,
whatever it is, you make it with freshly
clotted blood. You prepare Ñachi while
the blood is still in its liquid state, mixing
it with coriander and salt. To "cook" the
preparation, you add lemon juice, which
adds acid. Let the dish rest for no longer
than 10 minutes. Once the blood has
clotted, it forms a gelatin consistency
and can be sliced into cubes, put onto
a dish and served, to brave souls, while
the lamb is being roasted. A side note:
Eating Ñachi, especially for novices, has
the tendency to make you REALLY sleepy,
due to its high Iron content. Don’t sit too
near the fire!
3. Finish draining the blood from the
meat, and then you’ll begin to prepare
the lamb for the asador. Remove the
skin, beginning with the legs, chest and
genitalia. Make a slit to open these areas
and remove the skin away from the flesh
with both fists. Hang the lamb from its
shank, so the flesh does not come in
contact with the ground. Once the lamb
has been hung, remove the rest of the
skin. To make sure the skin does not
tear, leaving fat stuck to the flesh, slit the
skin a bit with your knife, and pull down
to remove it.
4. With your lamb hanging from the shank,
it is easy to open its center cavity and
remove the guts. Start by making a slit
with the knife, from the abdomen down
to the genitalia. Remove everything
inside, except the kidneys, which are
stuck behind the ribs. Cut the head off,
slice along the ribs, part way through, so
that you can open them wide, and leave
the lamb hanging, so that the meat cools.
Next, you need to put the lamb
on the asador: Once the meat is cool,
put the lamb on a table, with the open
ribs facing up. An asador is a tool made of
two metal bars. The longer of the two is
approximately 170 cm in height, and the
shorter, which is equipped with small hooks
on the ends, is around 90 cm. They two
bars are assembled in the form of a cross.
In order to make sure that the lamb will
cook evenly, you'll want to trim the thicker
areas of flesh, so that all of the meat is
around the same thickness. Both the
forequarters and hindquarters should be
opened, so that the meat cooks properly,
without leaving any raw parts. You should
also cut from the third rib, down to the last
one. Then, turn the ribs so that they face
down and thin the shoulders.
Once all your cuts are ready, you should
put the lamb on the asador, by placing and
plunging one of the ends of the long bar,
between the spine and the skin, so that it
comes out again, around the neck. Hook
both quarters to the ends of the horizontal
bar, so that the lamb stays open. Then, tie
the lamb to the asador using a piece of wire
to prevent the meat from slipping off, while
it is being roasted. Put a horizontal stake
across the lamb toward the bottom of the
asador, in order to keep the shoulders open
Cristian Solis
265
and another, to keep the ribs wide. Once
all stakes have been placed and the lamb
has been put on the asador, you are ready
for the fire.
Finally, it’s time to roast the lamb.
It is very important to light your fire about
30 minutes in advance, so that it produces
the embers that provide the heat you need,
to cook the lamb evenly. Avoid roasting the
lamb over direct flames; you will burn it and
dry it out! Start with the lamb ribs, facing the
fire, and plunge the asador into the ground,
approximately 70 cm from the fire. Tilt the
top of the asador toward the fire, at an
angle of around 60° or 70°. Make sure you constantly check on the fire
temperature by putting your hand as close
as possible to the side of the lamb facing
the fire. Hold your hand in that position for
3 seconds, if possible. It should feel hot but
not burn you. If that's the case, the fire is
at an adequate temperature. Keep in mind
that the rib-side is the thinnest part of
the lamb, which means that it is the most
delicate and the one that burns most easily.
You should keep constant watch on the fire,
making sure that the ribs do not turn brown.
Another of the challenges for the person in
charge of the roasting, is making certain that
both quarters cook evenly, as well as the
shoulders. To monitor this, put your hand
behind the lamb from time to time: when
you feel warmth coming through the meat,
the lamb is ready to be turned around.
Remove the asador, and rotate it so that
the other side is near the fire. Reaffirm it
into the ground. When you turn the lamb over, you should
start boiling the potatoes, so that both are
ready, in unison. The meat cooks faster after
the lamb has been turned over, since most
of the work has already been done. During
the whole cooking process, make sure you
stoke the fire regularly, in order to distribute
heat homogeneously, with the embers. The
whole cooking process takes 3 to 4 hours,
depending on the size of the lamb and the
quality of the fire.
Enjoy your Asado Patagon! Like
266
Pauline Symonds
many other parts of the world, the
barbecuing is left to the guys, who hang
out by the fire and "guy talk". Meanwhile,
the gals share yerba mate or wine, catching
up on all the news, and prepare the salads
and other accompaniments. But, when the
lamb is ready, everybody comes together. In
fact, the camaraderie built up among the
guests of this feast, during the cooking time,
is an essential ingredient for a Patagonian
Asado al Palo, To help, there are always
some gauchos playing accordion and guitar,
couples dancing to the sound of chamamé
or ranchera Patagona, and generous sharing
of wine, from a "bota" . The side dishes, like
potatoes, salads, tortas fritas, and pebre, are
usually passed around family-style, or served
from a buffet; and, the person in charge of
roasting, cuts the meat, making sure the
portions suffice for everyone.
So, now you know. Tonight, when
you dream, tell your great-greatgrandmother all about it - she’ll
approve!
You’re finally ready. Meet
marvelous Mt. San Lorenzo!
Mount San Lorenzo, with a height of 3706 meters, is the second
highest mountain in Patagonia and one of the most beautiful places
along the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit.This incredible mountain is an
almost constant beacon during the circuit, visible to you from Cochrane,
Valley Chacabuco, the Mayer River sector, and for many kilometers
traveling down National Route 40. But, we’ve been saving it for last.
Finally, it’s time to get close to
this marvelous mountain range!
Access the Mt. San Lorenzo Sector from the
final Section of the Undiscovered Patagonia
Circuit, in route to Cochrane from the
Ñadis River. Head to Fundo San Lorenzo,
an important base camp for mountaineers
seeking to summit. The high mountain base
camp offers protected campsites, with hot
showers, and a great quincho, for cooking.
They also have another shelter high on the
mountain, at Base camp de Agostini. Don
Luis Soto and his wife, Lucy Gómez, offer
guided hikes, horse treks, and Asados al Palo,
complete with accordion.
The best way to navigate the back
roads to their camp, is to radio
ahead, from Fundo Los Cipreses,
or one of the other farms, in the
Ñadis Sector. Don Luis can meet you
at the marked cross road, on the right side
of the Carretera Austral, around 33 Km into
Section 4E, just 6 Km before Cochrane. You
can throw your bike in his pick-up or follow
him in.
Experienced mountaineers train for months,
and wait at base camps for days, hoping for
the right weather to start climbing. The
official name of the mountain, in Chile,
is Cerro Cochrane, but this is not a very
popular denomination; everyone calls
it Cerro or Monte San Lorenzo. As an
isolated massif, to the east of the Andes,
this range serves as a reference point for
the border between Chile and Argentina.
On the eastern face, the wide pampa and
steppe, produce a micro climate and some
of the most amazing lenticular clouds
in Patagonia. This same micro climate
produces special elements of risk and
challenge for mountaineers, compared to
other mountains of similar height and scale,
in other areas of the world.
The first ascent of Mt. San
Lorenzo was completed in 1943,
by a group from Bariloche, AR,
They were led by Fr. Alberto de
Agostini, a Salesian priest. The first
winter ascent was completed only in 2004
by a group of young Chileans, led by Pablo
Besser. If you’d like to learn more about this
range, we recommend the books, Andes
Patagónicos, written by Alberto M.. De
Agostini; and Patagonia, written by Gino
Buscaini and Silvia Metzeltin.
Cristian Solis
267
Day hike to Cerro Mirador in
the San Lorenzo Range.
This 6 hour guided trek starts at the beautiful and remote high-mountain farm,
Fundo San Lorenzo, which sits at the foot of Mount San Lorenzo. The hike
leads to an overlook, on an unnamed mountain that we call, Cerro Mirador,
offering magnificent views of the glaciers and mountain peaks of San Lorenzo.
Cristian Solis
Meet Don Luis Soto in Cochrane or at the
cross roads to San Lorenzo, just 6 Km from
town, and head to Fundo San Lorenzo, a
famous mountaineering base camp, where
you can relax for the day or stay longer,
trekking and horseback riding with Don
Luis and his wife Lucy, or one of the other
authorized guides who work in the Sector.
During your stay, we suggest arranging an
Asado al Palo, complete with Don Luis’s
accordion and his son Francisco’s guitar.
• Activity Type: Guided Hike.
• Sector: Monte San Lorenzo
• Starting Point: Cochrane, or the
Carretera Austral Cross Road.
• Ending Point: Fundo San Lorenzo
• Considerations: To coordinate this
adventure, we suggest, contacting Don
Luis Soto, to make reservations and
coordinate a meeting place. Details are
provided in the Service Directory.
268
•
•
•
•
Distance: 8 Km, round trip.
Duration: 4 - 6 hours
Seasonality: November to May
Difficulty: The weather can be very
windy and cold. It is important to be
well prepared and complete this hike
with a guide, expert in this terrain.
The Route: The trek climbs the
southeast face of Cerro Mirador, ascending
approximately 1,000 M, over a distance
of 4 kilometers. It is challenging, but the
views from the overlook, which include the
wide open valleys, enormous glaciers and
jetting peaks of the San Lorenzo Range, are
breathtaking - be sure to have your camera
ready!!! In good weather, your view extends
further; to the main peaks of the Northern
Ice Field and the wide valleys surrounding
Cochrane and the Tamango National
Reserve.
Multisport adventure to
the Calluqueo Glacier.
Calluqueo is the main Glacier descending from Mt. San Lorenzo,
situated about 50 Km southeast of Cochrane.This excursion includes
a 4x4 tour, a river crossing by foot, and a short hike (3 Km) to an
amazing overlook for the Calluqueo Glacier, with its pro glacial lake
below and the peaks of Mt. San Lorenzo in the background.
Visiting the Calluqueo Glacier is
the perfect farewell adventure,
as you wind up your time along
the Undiscovered Patagonia
Circuit. Calluqueo Glacier is the main
glacier coming down from Mt. San Lorenzo,
in Chile. The opening of the road that
will eventually connect Cochrane to Villa
O’Higgins, has made access to Calluqueo
Glacier much more feasible; not long ago,
it could only be reached after hours of
horse riding along rustic trails.
• Activity Type: Self-guided 4x4 or
bike tour, river crossing and short hike.
• Sector: San Lorenzo
• Starting Point: Marked cross road,
on the right side of the Carretera
Austral, around 33 Km into Section 4E,
just 6 Km before Cochrane
• Ending Point: Carretera Austral, 6
Km south of Cochrane.
• Considerations: This excursion
requires crossing the Calluqueo
River on foot and is not advisable for
travelers without prior experience. If
you lack the proper experience, please
arrange a guided excursion, with one
of the guides listed in the Service
Directory. • Distance: 66 Km in vehicle and 6
Km hiking, round trip, from Carretera
Austral crossing.
• Duration: 4 hours with Vehicle; 2
Days Biking, You can camp at the end of
the road, beside the river.
• Seasonality: October to March
• Difficulty: Technical, due to river
crossing. Expertise required.
The Circuit - Part 1: 4x4 Driving
Tour: The road to the Calluqueo Glacier
departs from the Carretera Austral, 6 Km
south of Cochrane, marked with a sign
Cristian Solis
269
Cristian Solis
indicating Monte San Lorenzo. This road
follows the edge of Esmeralda Lake until
its junction with El Salto River. You’ll pass
through several ranches and old-growth
forests, following along the course of the
River. The peaks of San Lorenzo will be
visible, in the distance. Shortly after the
confluence of the San Lorenzo and El Salto
Rivers, you will cross a bridge over the
River narrows. Proceeding south of the San
Lorenzo River, you’ll pass a meadow and
wetland area, which borders Confluence
Lake.
The road to Calluqueo Glacier takes you
along a marked detour, 2 kilometers after
the Bridge, following the edge of Confluence
Lake, and later, the El Salto and Calluqueo
Rivers. Keep driving until the road ends at
the edge of the River, approximately 12½
Km after turning onto the detour. When
you reach the river, park your car. Do not
try to cross the river by car. Leave
your car parked to the north bank of the
river and continue on foot.
The Circuit - Part 2: The River
Crossing and Hike: The hike to the
Calluqueo Glacier is a brief 3 Km, along
the wide open gravel road being built
through the area. The technical aspect of
the excursion is attributable to one simple
factor, the crossing on foot, of the Calluqueo
River. Crossing the river is not advisable
270
for travelers without prior experience in
similar conditions. If you lack the proper
experience, please do not attempt the
crossing without a guide. The Calluqueo
River is fed directly from the glacier and
is very cold, with temperatures between
4° and 6°C. In summer, especially when it
rains or when temperatures are high, glacier
thaw increases and produces high, rapidly
changing waters in the section you must
cross. While Calluqueo Lake absorbs some
of the variation, the River’s level can quickly
and considerably increase, within the course
of each day, reaching its highest daily level
around 16h00 in the afternoon.
Please consider these variations
when planning the timing of your
excursion. In summer, during periods of
high temperatures, the river will probably
increase its level, especially in the afternoon;
thus, its level may differ considerably
between your two occasions for crossing. If
you experience trouble crossing the river in
the morning, do not continue, since it will
likely be higher and faster in the afternoon!
Using caution and good judgment, the river
crossing, though wide, is not complicated,
provided you have the proper knowledge
and prior experience. It is advisable to wear
sneakers that you can leave at the opposite
edge of the River and pick back up on your
return. Change into hiking boots for the 3
Km hike. You’ll follow the gravel road, along
an easy route, with great views as you go.
As you advance, you’ll notice more and
bigger rocks along the sides of the road,
remnants of the Glacier’s moraine, debris
pushed aside by the ice, as the Glacier
advanced. Reaching the overlook, you will
encounter magnificent views of Calluqueo
lake, the Calluqueo River and Valley, and the
enormous tongue of the Glacier winding
down from Mt. San Lorenzo’s peaks, high
above.
Helpful tips:
• Do not cross the river on your own.
• Use trekking poles to cross the river
and check how deep the river is.
• Always wear sneakers or boots to cross
the river, do not try crossing the river
barefoot. Bring a spare pair of shoes.
• Do not cross the river, if the level is
higher than your knees.
• Remember that the water level will
get higher in the afternoon, especially
when it is warm or rains.
Cristian Solis
NOTES
Cristian Solis
271
Dwell within Glaciers, Fiords, and Rivers.
4A
BancoEstado “Neighbor Fund” f/Bank Card Customers.
Villa O’Higgins, CH, Av. Lago Christie, www.cajavecina.cl.
The State Bank of Chile, has an auxiliary ATM-like cash box called its “Neighbor Fund” f/bank card
customers.This cash box has a limited supply of cash on-hand, & customers can only withdrawal small
amounts of money each day. To use this service you must have a current account w/BancoEstado.
Services offered to clients of the bank include: withdrawals, cash deposits, BancoEstado transfers
between customer’s accounts & third party accounts, loan payments, BancoEstado cash advances
& BancoEstado credit card payment, BancoEstado line of credit operations, balance inquiries &
password changes, reloading of mobile phones & payment of utility bills. Plan accordingly!
4C
BancoEstado “Neighbor Fund” f/Bank Card Customers.
Caleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Base, El Rincón, www.cajavecina.cl.
The BancoEstado (State Bank of Chile), has an auxiliary ATM-like cash box called its “Neighbor Fund”
f/bank card customers.
4A
Tourism Information Office, Villa O’Higgins
Villa O’Higgins, CH, Kiosk in the southwest corner of the Plaza of Arms. (0672) 431805,
Maps, brochures & info about tourism services & public transportation, including latest bus schedules.
4C
CONAF Offices, Caleta Tortel
Caleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Rincón Alto, (0672) 211876,
www.conaf.cl/conaf/seccion-conaf-aysen.html, orlando.beltran@conaf.cl.
The Caleta Tortel office of CONAF covers: southwestern sector, Laguna San Rafael National Park,
northwest sector, Bernardo O’Higgins National Park & Katalalixar National Reserve. They have
information & tips f/visitors, related to Regional Protected Areas, (especially those they manage), local
flora & fauna & Patagonian Ice Fields. Be sure to visit the boardwalk behind the office, where you can
enjoy their botanical garden which includes several trees, ferns & other native plants.
4C
Tourism Information Office, Caleta Tortel
Caleta Tortel, CH, Parking Lot Sector, www.municipalidaddetortel.cl,
turismo@municipalidaddetortel.cl.
Maps, brochures & info about tourism services & public transportation, including latest bus schedules.
GENERAL – SAFETY
4A
Police Station, Villa O’Higgins
Villa O’Higgins, CH, Carretera Austral, Southern end of Town, (0672) 567196.
272
4A
Entrada Mayer Border Post, Villa O’Higgins
Villa O’Higgins, CH, Entrada Mayer Border Control, (0672) 567189.
7 Km north of Villa O’Higgins, you will encounter a road which bears off to the right.This road follows
the Mayer River Valley f/47 Km, ending at the confluence of the Mayer & Carrera Rivers & the Entrada
Mayer Border Post. Officials are responsible f/controlling crossings of this border, which are infrequent
& only possible if the stars align & river conditions allow crossings by horse, bicycle or on foot. Trust
the officer’s advice & info about current river conditions. Officials provide accident or emergency
response f/the sector; thus need to be informed of any back-country travel plans.
4C
Police Station, Caleta Tortel
Caleta Tortel, CH Boardwalk, Sector Base, (0672) 567184.
Investigation & response management in case of incidents or accidents & assistance w/other aspects
of travel logistics.
GENERAL – HEALTH
4A
Rural Health Post, Villa O’Higgins
Villa O’Higgins, CH, Carretera Austral, middle of the block between Rio Pascua & Rio
Mayer, (0672) 431883.
2 paramedics work at this rural health post, which provides basic outpatient care & medications along
w/emergency & ambulance coordination.
4C
Rural Health Post, Caleta Tortel
Caleta Tortel, CH, Parking Lot Sector, (0672) 211876 – Municipality,
psrtortel@gmail.com.
Basic Medical Services including general medicine, first-aid, outpatient care, & preventive medicine.
4A
Villa O’Higgins, CH, Corner of Río Mayer & Lago Christie, (600) 502020.
4C
Caleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Base, (600) 502020.
4A
Villa O’Higgins, CH, Lago O’Higgins, middle of the block between Rio Pascua & Rio Mayer,
Local sales office. Flies small aircraft to Villa O’Higgins (CH$36.000) on Mondays & Thursdays
Charter flights available to Caleta Tortel & Cochrane.
273
4A
Cordillera Bus Station
Buses Acuario 13 provides transfers between Cochrane, Villa O’Higgins & Caleta Tortel, 2-3 times
a week. In Villa O’Higgins, you can obtain updated schedules & details on how to make your
reservations in the “Cordillera” Bus Station.
4A
Hospedaje Patagonia Bus Stop & Local Office
Villa O’Higgins, CH, Corner of Lago Christie & Rio Pascua, (0672) 431818,
Buses Águilas Patagónicas provides transfers between Cochrane, Villa O’Higgins & Caleta Tortel, 2-3
times/week. In Villa O’Higgins, obtain schedules & reserve spots in “Hospedaje Patagonia” Bus Station.
4D
Bus Stop & Local Office
Caleta Tortel, CH, Parking Lot Sector, Beside the Tourism Information Kiosk.
There are 3 bus companies, Buses Águilas Patagónicas & Buses Acuario 13 (both based in Coyhaique)
& Minibuses Aldea (based in Cochrane), offering regular transport between Cochrane & Tortel.
Among the 3, the possibility exists to travel between these towns, almost every day. Confirm current
schedules & make advance reservations by visiting their offices in Coyhaique or Cochrane, in person.
As well, you can visit the local Tourist Information Office to obtain updated schedules & details on
how to make reservations from Caleta Tortel.
GETTING AROUND – BOAT TRANSPORT
4B
Somarco Ferry, The Padre Antonio Ronchi
Puerto Yungay, CH, Carretera Austral S/N, Ruta 7 Sur, Ferry Terminal (02) 1966552,
www.barcazas.cl, puertoyungay@somarco.cl.
On the southern end of Mitchell Fiord (Puerto Bravo) there is a small visitor shelter f/travelers to
escape elements. There are rest rooms. The ferry, “Padre Antonio Ronchi”, transports vehicles &
passengers the length of the Fiord, dropping them at the Puerto Yungay Dock, where the Carretera
Austral resumes. This ferry is free & runs 3 times/day. Arrive in plenty of time to assure space. Boat
leaves south Puerto Bravo docks f/Puerto Yungay: 11h00, 13h00, & 17h00. Boat leaves north Puerto
Yungay docks f/Puerto Bravo: 10h00, 12h00, & 15h00. Boat travels less often in off season when you
can confirm schedule through their website.
4C
The Boat, Cruz del Sur, Santiago Ganga
Caleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Rincón Bajo, (09) 56346080.
Water Taxi & Special Services.
4A
El Mosco Passenger Transport
El Mosco offers shuttle service (15 passenger van), Villa O’Higgins - Caleta Tortel ($10.000+/-),
December - March. Bikes are allowed. Also offer special trips in Region. Check f/prices.
4A
Robinson Crusoe - Deep Patagonia Transfers
Robinson Crusoe offers top quality bus service (Private Coach) between Villa O’Higgins & Caleta
Tortel (Tuesdays & Thursdays: $15.000 1-way; $25.000 round trip).
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4D
Minibuses Aldea
Cochrane, CH, Las Golondrinas N° 339 (09) 81801962.
Minibuses Aldea offers scheduled transportation between Cochrane y Caleta Tortel w/4 departures
each week. Confirm times & make reservations at office in Cochrane or Caleta Tortel, in person.
4A
Gas Station, Villa O’Higgins
Villa O’Higgins, CH, Lago Christie Ave. - On the north end in the curve.
Diesel & Gasoline sales. This is your last gas station until Cochrane!
4C
Hospedaje Águilas Patagónicas
Caleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Rincón Bajo (09) 74953251,
Ideally situated in Rincón Bajo Sector, w/8 rooms (single, twin & double) w/private &/or shared baths.
Breakfast included in price. Options for meals, regional dishes that celebrate local flavors.
4C
Hospedaje Brisas del Sur
Caleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Playa Ancha Sector, (0672) / (0672) / (09) 524929 / 214031
/ 82367697, valerialanderos@hotmail.com.
In Playa Ancha sector, you will find this inn w/central heating, perched on the hill. Comfortable rooms
w/options f/private & shared baths. Dining room where you can enjoy Señora Valeria’s delicious
recipes. Great view of the bay, relaxing family atmosphere. Here, you can share in traditions & culture
of the town ($12.000/person f/triple w/shared bath; $35.000+tax f/matrimonial w/private bath).
4C
Hospedaje del Río
Caleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Rincón, (09) 99403478, iris-tortel@hotmail.com.
Family lodging ($8.000 w/o breakfast), ($10.500 w/breakfast). Parking close. Panoramic views of bay.
4C
Hospedaje Don Adan
Caleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Rincón Bajo (09) 95719474,
hospedaje_donadan@chile.com.
Strategically located hospedaje offers singles ($9.500), doubles ($9.500/person) & matrimonials
($19.000) w/shared baths & views overlooking the Fiords of Tortel.
4C
Hospedaje El Chanito
Caleta Tortel, CH, Parking Lot Sector, (09) 81819839.
Small residential hospedaje ($6.000/person) that provides meals.
4C
Hospedaje Giselle
Family hospedaje ($8.000) w/breakfast service.
4C
Hospedaje Porvenir
Caleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Junquillo, (09) 76521937,
martinurrutiainiguez@gmail.com.
Family hospedaje ($6.500 to $16.000 w/breakfast), at end of boardwalks. Walk from parking lot
rewards you w/the privacy of being near the beach & peaceful scenery of this secluded sector.
Options f/lunch & dinner f/guests & laundry service. Near the trail head for Cerro La Bandera hike.
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4C
Lodge Entre Hielos
Caleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Base, (02) / (09) 1960271 / 95793779,
www.entrehielostortel.cl, contacto@entrehielostortel.cl.
At Entre Hielos Lodge ($65.000 - $70.000/night), you will enjoy a warm family atmosphere,
comfortable rooms, gourmet meals prepared w/local produce, a small library brimming w/national &
regional literature & w/all the information & support needed to coordinate excursions around area.
Entre Hielos Lodge has 6 suites, each uniquely adorned w/art & textures that complement the natural
environment. Each suite has its own bath. Reservation includes breakfast service.
4C
Residencial Costanera
Comfortable lodging ($8.000 - $10.000 w/breakfast), family atmosphere, beautiful area full of gardens
& local culture. Options f/lunch & dinner.
4C
Residencial Estilo
Caleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Base, (09) 82558487, pinilla1470@gmail.com or
zuri1_67@hotmail.com.
Clean accommodations, family atmosphere ($8.000 -$10.000 w/breakfast), located in heart of Caleta
Tortel. Options f/lunch & dinner f/guests, locals & other visitors.
4C
Residencial Hielo Sur
Caleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Rincón Bajo, (09) 5w6346080,
turismo@municipalidaddetortel.cl.
If you’ve had a hard day on the road & are in need of good rest & warm soup, think of Senora
Silvia as your grandmother in Patagonia. Comfortable residential lodgings ($7.500) w/typical food
that incorporates traditions, knowledge & flavors of Chilean Patagonia. Offers home-made crafts &
goodies she makes during winter. Can coordinate taxi boat services.
4C
Residencial La Sureña
Caleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Playa Ancha, (0672) / (0672) / (09) 214031 /
524929 / 92149807, la.surena@live.cl.
Señora Berta Muñoz awaits in Sector Playa Ancha w/rural accommodations & breakfast ($7.500), plus
options f/lunch & dinner. Friendly service, spectacular view of bay & the boardwalks.
4C
Cabaña del Río
Caleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Rincón, (09) 99403478, iris-tortel@hotmail.com.
Cabaña ($35.000) f/4 people, w/a living room & fully equipped kitchen, near the parking lot.
4C
Cabañas Bajo Pisagua
Caleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Parking Lot Sector, profebene@gmail.com.
For 4-6 people ($25.000 - $40.000) Living room & fully equipped kitchen. Convenient to parking.
4C
Cabañas Javi
Caleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Rincón, (09) 97907742, javi.cabana@gmail.com.
Cabaña f/6 people ($35.000 - $45.000) crafted from local ciprés de Guaitecas, near the parking lot.
4C
Cabañas Río de los Ciervos
Caleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Parking Lot Sector, (09) 95050425.
Cabaña, crafted from local ciprés de Guaitecas, equipped f/6 people, near the parking lot.
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4C
Cabañas Scarlett
Caleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Rincón, (09) 82960076.
Cabañas f/4-6 people w/living room & fully equipped kitchen.
WHERE TO SLEEP – CAMPING
4C
Camping at the Beach (Free)
Caleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Junquillo, (0672) 573203,
www.municipalidaddetortel.cl, turismo@municipalidaddetortel.cl.
Free Municipal Camping Area on wide beach w/playground, grills, swimming area & public bathroom
(no showers). Beautiful panoramic view of the fiord.
4D
Shelter & Camping La Araucaria
Cochrane, CH, Los Ñadis Sector, Barrancoso River Bridge, take the road to the right, 3
Km, until the Camping Area. Radio HF frequencies: 3.789 & 4.580, (0672) / (09) 522326 /
81812887, turismo@cochranepatagonia.cl.
Camping Area w/a sleeping shelter, baths w/hot showers, & access to a kitchen f/cooking. Offer crafts,
fresh produce, Asado al Palo & horseback excursions to El Saltón del Baker & Corte San Carlos.
4D
Shelter & Camping Fundo Los Cipreses
Cochrane, CH, Los Cipreses Ranch, Ñadis River Sector, Carretera Austral, Radio HF
frequencies: 3.789 & 4.580. (0672) 522326, lillischindele@yahoo.de.
Small shelter w/living room, fully equipped kitchen, quad-style bedroom (2 bunk beds) bath w/hot
water showers, & beautiful meadow f/camping. The Fundo also offers a unique service to its visitors;
a “rural kiosk” where you can buy jars of homemade jam, beverages, freshly baked bread, vegetables
& “make your own” break kits w/everything you need to prepare bread in the wood-burning oven of
their refuge.. Patagonia-style quincho (covered cooking/party hut); in this case, built around a tree w/
great artistic touches. Settle into the relaxing beauty of the 100% natural landscape.
4E
Camping, Fundo San Lorenzo
Cochrane, CH, Sector San Lorenzo, Radio HF frequencies: 3.789 & 4.580. (0672) / (09)
522326 / 95619963 / 75618719, cerrosanlorenzo@gmail.com,
You can meet Luis Soto at his son’s house in Cochrane or the crossing of the side road to the San
Lorenzo sector with the Carretera Austral. The high mountain Base Camp at Fundo San Lorenzo is
about 90 minutes by vehicle, from Cochrane. Protected Camping Area, w/hot water showers, & use
of their Patagonia-style quincho, which provides a covered cooking pavilion. Base-camp de Agostini
mid-mountain Sleeping Shelter at base of San Lorenzo. Contact prior to arrival to make reservations.
4C
Café & Snack Kiosk El Peregrino
Puerto Yungay, CH, Beside the Dock in Puerto Yungay, (09) 84434320.
Francisco Velásquez & Marta Inés Nahuel are the owners of the tiny café & kiosk beside the docks in
Puerto Yungay. While many travelers simply follow other vehicles departing the ferry after crossing the
Mitchell Fiord, we suggest you pull to the side & park f/a few minutes, giving traffic time to disappear
so you can experience the road ahead w/o distractions. Visit El Peregrino & try delicious homemade
treats, e.g., a pie, similar to lemon meringue, but made w/Nalca, also called Pangue (gunnera tinctoria).
This plant with huge ears resembling umbrellas or elephant ears are prolific in the wetter areas of this
zone. Don’t miss it! Clean rest rooms, great views, handmade crafts, delicious sandwiches & interesting
conversations to be had, all at this easily missed treasure within an Undiscovered Patagonia.
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4C
Café & Bakery del Río
Caleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Rincón Bajo, (09) 99403478,
iris-tortel@hotmail.com.
Small family restaurant w/daily menu. Reservations appreciated (stop by during the morning) so that
they can be well prepared. Fresh-baked bread f/take-out.
4C
Café El Chanito
Caleta Tortel, CH, Parking Lot Sector, (09) 81819839.
Señora Ana will prepare & sell simple meals (typical dishes) from her small residential hospedaje.
4C
Gastronomy at the Lodge Entre Hielos
Caleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Base, (02) / (09) 1960271 / 95793779,
www.entrehielostortel.cl, contacto@entrehielostortel.cl.
Dining room with open kitchen concept, distributed in typical Patagonian style. Cozy atmosphere
surrounds you in Guaitecas Cypress. Boxed lunches ($6.000), & the option f/guests to join us f/
gourmet dinner ($15.000), based on local bounty: organic vegetables from Caleta Tortel greenhouses,
house specialty marmalades & jams using native fruits from local orchards. Frequent features: Baker
River salmon, merluza from the Fiords, local Bravo River mutton & beef & Puerto Edén king crab.
Check availability in advance. Spaces limited & guests of Lodge have first options!
4C
Restaurant El Mirador
Caleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Base, nataysol@hotmail.com.
Centrally located restaurant w/water views offers opportunity to share Tortelino culture, w/menu
based on rural Patagonian tastes & dishes typical of area, and a mix of visitors & locals.
4C
Restaurant El Peregrino
Caleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Yungay.
Regional cuisine, w/dishes such as beef tenderloin, stews, pastas & sandwiches. Daily specials.
Reservations appreciated (stop by during the morning) so that they can be well prepared.
4C
Restaurant El Rey del Ciprés
Caleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Base, (67) 211876, reydelcipres@hotmail.com.
Daily menu. Reservations appreciated (stop by during the morning) so that they can be well prepared.
4C
Restaurant El Rincón del Ventisquero
Caleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Rincón Alto, (09) 77585961,
simon_badilla@yahoo.com.ar.
Opportunity to share Tortelino culture, enjoying a daily menu w/meals typical of the area. Reservations
appreciated (stop by during the morning) so that they can be well prepared.
4C
Restaurant Sabores Locales
delimar114@hotmail.com.
Favorite w/both visitors & Tortelinos! Casual atmosphere. Innovative use of Patagonian flavors. Tip:
Sign is hidden in bushes. Keep close watch & don’t pass entrance leading up to restaurant! Mix of local
dishes & original modern, healthy recipes, developed by owner, Maritza Reyes. Options f/vegetarians,
using organic vegetables from Caleta Tortel greenhouses.
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4A
Almacén Bruny
Villa O’Higgins, CH, Corner of Los Ñadis & Rio Bravo, (0672) 431805,
4A
Almacén Cordillera
4A
Almacén Don Pepe
Villa O’Higgins, CH, Lago O’Higgins, middle of the block between Los Ñadis & Rio Bravo,
4A
Almacén Ventisquero
Villa O’Higgins, CH, Lago Christie, middle of the block between Rio Pascua & Rio Mayer,
4A
San Gabriel Provisions
San Gabriel Store, located next to the restaurant, offers food & prepares picnics & boxed lunches to
take with you on the road.
4C
Almacén Rio Baker
4C
ECA (Agricultural Commerce Store)
GASTRONOMY - BAKERIES (PANADERIAS)
4C
Café & Bakery del Río
iris-tortel@hotmail.com.
This small café offers fresh, home-made bread f/takeout.
279
GASTRONOMY – TO GO
4C
Café & Snack Kiosk El Peregrino
Puerto Yungay, CH, Beside the Dock in Puerto Yungay, (09) 84434320.
Don’t miss it! Clean rest rooms, great views, handmade crafts, delicious sandwiches & interesting
conversations to be had, all at this easily missed treasure within an Undiscovered Patagonia.
4C
Foods To Go (Al Paso) el Patagón
Comida al Paso el Patagón offers fast food take-out, w/sandwiches, empanadas, hot dogs, tortas fritas
& chaparitas (hot dogs wrapped in pastry dough - think “pig in the blanket”).
4D
Fundo Los Cipreses Rural Kiosk
The Fundo offers a unique service to its visitors; a “rural kiosk” where you can buy jars of homemade
jam, beverages, bread, vegetables & “make your own” break kits w/everything you need to prepare
bread in the wood-burning oven of their refuge.
4A
Alonso Díaz (Coya), of Entre Patagones Cabañas & Restaurant, is also a long-time trekking guide in
the area. Having grown up here, he knows the routes for climbing to glaciers, like the El Tigre Glacier.
Check out details of this great hike in the article on the route of the El Tigre Glacier. Transportation
included.
4A
Tsonek Expeditions
Villa O’Higgins, CH, Carretera Austral, 1.6 Km north of Villa O’Higgins, (09) 78929695,
www.tsonek.cl, info@tsonek.cl.
Treks to popular O’Higgins trail destination, such as El Tigre Glacier trekking. Email for details.
4A
Villa O’Higgins, CH, Carretera Austral Km 1240, (0672) 431821 / 431822,
Travel agency & tour operator who offers day hikes to the El Tigre Glacier.
4C
Pedro Rodriguez, Regional Guide
Tortel, CH, Parking Lot Sector, (09) 97892489, www.aumen.cl, peanro@yahoo.es.
Official guide f/the Laguna Caiquenes Conservation Area. Check out the article on this hidden gem
and arrange f/him to meet your group at the site when traveling to Caleta Tortel from Puerto Yungay.
You can also find him in Tortel & travel the short distance to Laguna Caiquenes together for this day
full of hiking, learning & immersion in the incredible nature in the area.
4E
Fundo San Lorenzo
522326 / 95619963 / 75618719, cerrosanlorenzo@gmail.com or
Meet Luis Soto at his son’s house in Cochrane or the crossing of the Carretera Austral with the side
route to Sector San Lorenzo to head for this high mountain Base Camp at Fundo San Lorenzo, about
90 minutes by vehicle, from Cochrane. Luis & his wife, Lucy Gómez, offer trekking around the San
Lorenzo base & to their mid-mountain sleeping shelter. Contact prior to your arrival for reservations.
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4E
Kalem Adventure Outfitters
Puerto Guadal, CH, Los Alerces 557 , (0672) / (09) 431289 / 88112535,
www.facebook.com/kalem.turismoaventura, pacualpatagonia@latinmail.com.
Regional hiking & mountaineering Specialist w/San Lorenzo summits & Calluqueo Glacier expeditions.
4C
Excursions aboard the “Aqua 1” Juan Ruiz
Caleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Base (09) 82477140, patagonruiz@hotmail.com.
Captain Juan Ruiz offers these excursions aboard the Aqua : Isla de los Muertos, Ventisquero Montt,
Ventisquero Steffen, Bay of Tortel, Historic Descent of the Baker River.
4C
Excursions aboard the “Delia del Carmen”, Paulo Landeros
Caleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Playa Ancha, (09) 82386781,
paulolanderos800@gmail.com.
Captain Paulo Landeros offers these excursions aboard the Delia del Carmen: Isla de los Muertos,
Bay of Tortel, Ventisquero Montt, Ventisquero Steffen, Tortel - San Carlos.
4C
Excursions aboard the “El Mordelón”, Miguel Jara
migiarana@hotmail.com.
Captain Miguel Jara offers these excursions aboard the Mordelón: Isla de los Muertos, Ventisquero
Montt, Ventisquero Steffen, Bay of Tortel.
4C
Excursions aboard the “Libertad”, Luis Landeros
Caleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Base, (09) 66835392,
luislanderossepulveda@yahoo.es.
Captain Luis Landeros offers these excursions aboard the Libertad: Isla de los Muertos, Ventisquero
Montt, Ventisquero Steffen, Bay of Tortel, Historic Descent of the Baker River, Pascua River.
4C
Excursions aboard the “Paz Austral”, Noel Vidal
Caleta Tortel, CH, Administration in the Entre Hielos Lodge, Boardwalk, Sector Base, (09)
95995730 / 95793779, www.entrehielostortel.cl/pazaustral/index.html,
noellvidal@hotmail.com.
Captain Noel Vidal offers, “Our family has been offering tourism services in the community of Caleta
Tortel for 5+ years. We provide excursions aboard the Paz Austral, which was designed & built, by
hand, by our family, entirely in ciprés of the Guaitecas. We provide a comfortable & cozy vessel, to
tour the lush nature of the channels & islands, protected from the rain & wind that are characteristic
of this part of the world. We have a number of regular circuits developed, including the historic Baker
River descent, a visit to the Isla de los Muertos, exploration of the Ventisquero Steffen & a trip to
the amazing Katalalixar National Reserve. You may incorporate some sea kayaking into your tour or
design a special itinerary, based on your interests. We have all the safety equipment required by the
maritime authority & solar energy to charge our satellite communications equipment.”
4C
Excursions aboard the “Relámpago” Eladio Flores
Caleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Playa Ancha, (09) 84615833.
Captain Eladio Flores, offers these excursions aboard the Relámpago: Isla de los Muertos,Ventisquero
Montt, Ventisquero Steffen, Bay of Tortel, Historic Descent of the Baker River.
4C
Excursions aboard the “Tempano” Claudio Landeros
claudio.landeros@live.cl.
Captain Claudio Landeros, offers these excursions aboard the Tempano: Isla de los Muertos,
Ventisquero Montt, Ventisquero Steffen, Bay of Tortel.
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4E
Puerto Guadal, CH, Los Alerces 557, (0672) / (09) 431289 / 88112535,
Regional mountaineering specialist offering boating around the
Calluqueo Glacier sector.
4E
Fundo San Lorenzo
Spend the morning on this overland 4x4 tour from Cochrane through the Sector of San Lorenzo to
the high mountain base camp at Fundo San Lorenzo. Here, Luis & his wife, Lucy Gómez, offer trekking
& horseback riding & can arrange & prepare a Patagonian Asado al Palo, complete with accordion.
4C
Excursions aboard the “Aqua 1”, Juan Ruiz
Caleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Base (09) 82477140, patagonruiz@hotmail.com.
Cultural/History Excursions aboard the Aqua 1, captained by Juan Ruiz, to the following sectors: Isla
de los Muertos, Historic Descent of the Baker River.
4C
Excursions aboard the “Delia del Carmen”, Paulo Landeros
paulolanderos800@gmail.com.
Cultural/History Excursions aboard the Delia del Carmen, captained by Paulo Landeros, to the
following sectors: Isla de los Muertos.
4C
Excursions aboard the “El Mordelón”, Miguel Jara
migiarana@hotmail.com.
Cultural/History Excursions aboard the Mordelón, captained by Miguel Jara, to the following sectors:
Isla de los Muertos.
4C
Excursions aboard the “Libertad”, Luis Landeros
Caleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Base, (09) 66835392,
luislanderossepulveda@yahoo.es.
Cultural/History Excursions aboard the Libertad, captained by Luis Landeros, to the following sectors:
Isla de los Muertos, Historic Descent of the Baker River.
4C
Excursions aboard the “Paz Austral”, Noel Vidal
Caleta Tortel, CH, Reception Area, Entre Hielos Lodge, Boardwalk, Sector Base, (09)
95995730 / 95793779,
www.entrehielostortel.cl/pazaustral/index.html, noellvidal@hotmail.com.
Cultural/History Excursions aboard the Paz Austral, designed & hand built by Vidal - Hargreaves
family, entirely in ciprés of the Guaitecas. Circuits offered by Captain Noel Vidal include: Historic Baker
River Descent & a Visit to the Isla de los Muertos. Boat equipped w/all safety equipment required by
maritime authority & solar energy to charge satellite communications equipment.
4C
Excursions aboard the “Relámpago”, Eladio Flores
Caleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Playa Ancha, (09) 84615833.
Cultural/History Excursions aboard the Relámpago, captained by Eladio Flores, to the following
sectors: Isla de los Muertos, Historic Descent of the Baker River.
282
4C
Excursions aboard the “Tempano”, Claudio Landeros
claudio.landeros@live.cl.
Cultural/History Excursions aboard the Tempano, captained by Claudio Landeros, to the following
sectors: Isla de los Muertos.
4D
Km, until the Camping Area. Radio HF frequencies: 3.789 & 4.580. (0672) / (09) 522326
/ 81812887, turismo@cochranepatagonia.cl.
The owners of this rural camping area sell crafts & produce, grown on their farm. Ask about their
options for a Patagonian Asado al Palo & horseback rides to El Saltón del Baker & Corte San Carlos.
4D
Fundo Los Cipreses
At Fundo Los Cipreses you will find a unique quincho built around a tree w/great artistic touches.
It’s a great place to take a rest after your adventures, discover a bit of farm life near the end of the
earth & celebrate your adventures with a great Asado al Palo Patagon. Surrounded by high Andean
peaks, hanging glaciers & amazing waterfalls, Fundo Los Cipreses is situated in a valley bounded by the
confluence of the Baker & Ñadis rivers which wind along the edges of the landscape. Reserve the
refuge, Asados & horseback riding at least 12 hours in advance!
4E
Fundo San Lorenzo
Luis Soto & wife, Lucy Gómez, offer horseback riding around their sector of Cerro San Lorenzo with
a mixture of true gaucho & hauso styles. They prepare Patagonian Asado al Palo at their Base Camp’s
quincho, complete with accordion. Contact prior to your arrival to make reservations.
4A
Recreational fishing at Cisnes, Ciervo & Negro Lakes ($60.000/day).
4A
Alonso Díaz (Coya), of Entre Patagones Cabañas & Restaurant, is a long-time fly-fishing guide in the
area. Having grown up here, he knows spectacular fishing spots. He has a cataraft & vehicle & gear
for 2 fishermen.
4A
The Native Trout is a small business that focuses on fly-fishing activities. Excursions include boat rides,
tours of the El Mosco Sector, & food services during the tour. Groups of 1 - 4 persons.
283
4A
Tsonek Expeditions
In addition to bird watching or hiking, Mauricio Melgarejo, the Director of Tsonek Expeditions, offers
other tours such as fishing with an emphasis on entomology. Ask for details.
4A
Villa O’Higgins Expeditions offers a wide range of tours & expeditions, including fishing tours.
4C
Pedro Rodriguez Regional Guide
Tortel, CH, Parking Lot Sector, (09) 97892489, www.aumen.cl, peanro@yahoo.es.
Official guide f/the Laguna Caiquenes Conservation Area, assisting ongoing scientific research
including a study of huemul (hippocamelus bisulcus) behavior, identification & characterization of new
amphibian species, & a census of mosses, fungi, lichens, & other native flora. Organize a trip w/Pedro to
experience this hidden treasure. Arrange f/him to meet your group as you are traveling from Puerto
Yungay or find him in Tortel & travel the short distance to Laguna Caiquenes together. Promises to be
a day full of hiking, learning & immersion in the incredible nature in the area.
4D
Km, until the Camping Area. Radio HF frequencies: 3.789 & 4.580. (0672) / (09) 522326
/ 81812887, turismo@cochranepatagonia.cl.
Horseback rides to the sector of El Saltón del Baker & Corte San Carlos.
4D
Fundo Los Cipreses
At Fundo Los Cipreses you can arrange horseback rides to the sector of El Saltón del Baker & Corte
San Carlos. Reserve at least 12 hours in advance so that they will be prepared f/your arrival!
4E
Fundo San Lorenzo
Luis Soto & wife, Lucy Gómez, offer horseback riding around their sector of Cerro San Lorenzo.
Contact prior to your arrival to make reservations.
4E
Puerto Guadal, CH, Los Alerces 557, (0672) / (09) 431289 / 88112535,
Regional mountaineering specialist w/horseback riding in San Lorenzo Sector & Calluqueo Glacier.
284
A
Activities & Excursions [See also: Route
of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit;
Safe Travels].
A boat ride to the Dark Side. 246
A walk to the Cisnes Lagoon in Patagonia Park. 79
85
91
Calling the curious! It’s time to break
out those binoculars. 198
Catch a Tiger by the Tail. 231
Celebrate Argentina’s National Gnocchi
Day. 95
Chorrillo del Salto Waterfall Hike. 139
Cochrane offers fantastic recreational
fishing. 68
Cooking on the road Argentinean style,
“Gnocchi with Salsa Tuco”. 96
Craving a yummy breakfast and a great
Java fix? 137
Cruise O’Higgins/San Martin Lake to
the O’Higgins Glacier. 180
Day hike to Cerro Mirador in the San
Lorenzo Range. 268
185
Day Hike to the Piedras Blancas Glacier
Overlook. 142
Discover the earliest human societies in
South America. 125
Encounter Hidden Treasures. 233
Enter Father Antonio Ronchi’s world
where anything is possible and everyone pitches in. 202
Experience the Baker River. 73
Explore the Casa de Piedra Area in
Patagonia Park. 86
Explore the Northern Patagonia Ice
Field and the Steffen Glacier. 249
with this day hike. 63
71
Explore Viedma Lake & Glacier. 145
Topic Index
Heat up your journey. 54
Hike the Altas Lagoons circuit in Patagonia Park. 81
Camping and the Blanco River. 140
Camping and the Blanco River). 141
Hike to the Cerro Torre Lagoon and
Overlook. 143
Hike to the Overlook of Cerro Santiago. 184
146
Join the elite few who have biked the
Carretera Austral of Chile. 194
Kayaking on the Cochrane River. 67
Multisport adventure to the Calluqueo
Glacier. 269
On horseback, to El Saltón and Corte
San Carlos. 254
“Orienteer” your way along the boardwalks. 241
and Chilean pebre on your own. 192
Prepare your own Empanadas with a
Patagonian style. 148
Prepare your own home-baked bread,
Patagonia style. 252
Reach the summit of Cerro Leon in
Perito Moreno National Park. 128
Ride along with Father Ronchi. 204
235
wilderness? This detour’s for you. 127
Seeking solitude and pure nature? Head
to Los Huemules. 144
Summer in Patagonia means it’s time
for an Asado al Palo. 261
244
Take a walk through Cochrane’s past
and present. 50
Tour the Southern Patagonia Ice Field
and the Jorge Montt Glacier. 247
Treat yourself to a bit of high cuisine in
the middle of the Austral Steppe. 132
251
285
Walk the cemetery circuit in Patagonia
Park. 80
Air Transport 31, 152, 208, 273
B
Bajo Caracoles, AR. 46, 115, 116, 125
Bakeries (Panaderias) 109, 137, 163, 279
Banking Services 29, 98, 150, 207, 272
Bernardo O’Higgins National Park [See
also: Birds; Glaciers; Guides & Excursions;
Huemul; Safe Travels].
Boat Excursions to the Jorge Montt
Glacier 281
CONAF Offices Caleta Tortel 272
L/M Quetru Ship - Ferry for Crossing
Lago O’Higgins/San Martin 208
Robinson Crusoe - Deep Patagonia
Excursions 214
Welcome to Caleta Tortel - Unique
Patagonian Heritage. 237
Bike (Guides & Rentals) 111, 169, 217
Bike (Logistics, Supplies, Services &
Repairs) 34, 101, 154, 209
Bike Touring [See also: Bike Guides &
Rentals; Bike Logistics; Safe Travels;
Route of the Undiscovered Patagonia
Circuit].
Bike Considerations for the Laguna/
Lago del Desierto trail in route to
Chile. 178
Bike touring along Patagonia roads. 20
Services Before & After the Circuit Bicycles 34
Side Routes & Tours. 73, 91, 125, 127,
144, 194, 229, 251, 267, 269
Birds (Life Zones)
Feugian Lifezone 196
Patagonian Lifezone 197
Birds (Watching) 57,63, 73, 79, 130, 183,
195, 198, 200, 215, 254
Birds (Resources)
Costa y Punta, 2009. Field Guide to the
Flora & Fauna of the Glaciares National
Park. 201
286
Inform yourself about the Bird Lifezones in the Circuit. 196
Jaramillo, 2003. Birds of Chile, printed
by Princeton Field Guides 201
Rise to the challenge with these bird
watching basics. 200
“The Birds of Chile”, Araya & Chester,
1993 196
www.avesdechile.cl. 201
Birds (Species)
Andean condor (vultur gryphus) 128,
198, 199, 236
austral parakeet (enicognathus ferrugineus) 57, 197
austral rail (rallus antarcticus) 155, 168
black-crowned night heron (nycicorax
nycticorax) 57
black necked swan (cygnus melancoryphus) 57, 197, 199, 223
bronze-winged duck (speculanas specularis), 57, 79
buffed-neck ibis (theristicus caudatus)
80, 254
cachudito (anairetes parulus) 198
carancho (caracara plancus) 198, 199
Chilean flamingo (phoenicopterus
chilensis) 4, 42, 197
Chilean or brown pintail (anas georgica
spinicauda) 57, 79
churrín del sur (scytalopus magellanicus) 198
cometocino patagónico (phyrgilus
patagonicus) 198
crested caracara (caracara cheriway)
197
diucón (xolmis pyrope) 198
eagle (geranoaetus melanoleucus) 43,
57, 74, 81
flightless steamer duck (tachyeres
pteneres) 57, 196
flying steamer duck (tachyeres patachonicus) 57, 196
great grebe (podiceps major) 57
harrier (buteo polyosoma) 198
hooded grebe (podiceps gallardoi)
155, 168
imperial cormorant (leucocarbo atriceps or phalacrocorax atriceps), 196
kestrel (falco sparverius) 198
lesser rhea, Darwin’s rhea, ñandú, or
rhea Americana (pterocnemia pennata)
18, 20, 120
Magellanic diving petrel (pelecanoides
magellani) 196
Magellanic or black woodpecker (campephilus magellanicus) 57, 144, 195,
196, 198, 199
Patagonian yellow finch (sicalis lebruni)
197
ringed kingfisher (ceryle torquata) 57,
195
ruddy-headed goose (chloephaga
rubidiceps) 43, 57, 80, 196, 197, 236
short-billed miner (geositta antarctica)
197
southern hued hued (pteroptochos
tarnii) 198, 199
southern lapwing (vanellus chilensis)
57, 80, 254
Strickland’s snipe (gallinago stricklandii)
197
yellow-billed teal (anas flavirostris) 57,
79, 236
Boat Excursions
71
Planning your water-based activities in
Patagonia. 65
235
Trekking the shores of Laguna/Lago del
Desierto in route to Chile. 178
Boats & Captains (Excursions) 109, 166,
214, 281
Boat Transport 274 [See also: Route of
the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit Stages 3 & 4].
El Huemul Ferry 178, 208
El Quetru 178, 208
Padre Antonio Ronchi Ferry 204, 274
Borders & Border Crossings
Animal and Agricultural Control 89
24
Crossing borders between Chile and
Argentina. 88
Crossing borders in private vehicles 89
Customs Control 89
General Safety Services for Stage 1 99
Immigration Control 88
Overview of Stage 1 40
Overview of Stage 3 173
Role of Security Control 88
Some Practical Advice for Border
Crossings 90
The Route of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit. 6
Thinking of traveling with a pet? 27
Bus Transport 22, 32, 100, 152, 208, 274
C
Cabañas 104, 158, 211, 276
Caiquenes Lagoon Conservation Area
[See also: Birds; Guides & Excursions;
Pedro Rodriguez Regional Guide 284
Caleta Tortel, CH [See also: Route of
the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit Stage 4].
Map of the Town 240
244
Camping & Shelters 105, 159, 212, 277
Chauffeurs & Transfers 33, 100, 153, 274
Chilean National Fishing & Aquaculture
Service (SERNAPESCA). 30
Cochrane, CH [See also: Route of the
Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit - Stage 1].
287
Celebrate the Route of the Huemul
Festival. 82
Check out beautiful views in Tamango
National Reserve. 57
Cochrane has always been a city on the
move. 47
fishing. 68
Lorenzo Range. 268
Heat up your journey with a touch of
authentic Patagonian culture. 54
Introducing Patagonia’s newest Park. 75
Map of Town 49
Glacier. 269
San Carlos. 254
and present. 50
251
You’re finally ready. Meet marvelous Mt.
San Lorenzo! 267
Communication and medical services. 24
CONAF (National Forestry Corporation
of Chile)
CONAF Caleta Tortel 272
CONAF Cochrane 98
CONAF Regional Offices in Coyhaique 30
Conservación Patagónica [See Patagonia
Park].
Conservation Areas [See Caiquenes
Lagoon Conservation Area; San Lorenzo
Conservation Area].
Coyhaique, CH 7, 29
Cueva de las Manos. [See UNESCO
World Heritage Site Cueva de las Manos].
Culture & Cultural [See History &
Culture].
D
Day Driving Circuits & Short Detours
91
288
South America. 125
Glacier. 269
wilderness? This detour’s for you. 127
251
229
San Lorenzo! 267
Didymo Algae (didymosphenia geminata)
68
E
El Calafate, AR 7, 29
El Chaltén, AR [See also: Route of the
Java fix? 137
146
Trekking in the northern zone of Los
Glaciares National Park. 138
Map of Town 136
Welcome to El Chaltén, the Trekking
Capital of Argentina. 134
Estancias [See Farms (Fundos) &
Estancias].
F
Farms (Fundos) & Estancias [See also:
Circuit].
Candelario Mansilla Estancia 176, 209
Cueva de los Manos Estancia 125, 154
Cueva de las Manos Estancia Tours 167
El Cóndor Estancia 120, 155
El Menelik Estancia 154
Fundo La Araucaria 277, 283
Fundo Los Cipreses 227, 251, 252, 254,
277, 283, 284
Rural Kiosk 280
Fundo San Lorenzo 267, 268, 277, 280,
282, 283, 284
La Angostura Estancia 130, 155
Laguna Verde Estancia 131, 155
La Oriental Estancia 127, 154
La Quinta Estancia 55, 121, 135, 156
Las Margaritas Estancia 229
Los Granaderos Estancia 130, 155
Heritage Tour, A Rebellious Patagonia:
Evolution of Human Rights in Patagonia
Argentina 166
Los Huemules Estancia Nature Reserve
60, 144, 151
Posadas Estancia 93
Suyai Estancia 45, 46
Valley Chacabuco Estancia 75, 76, 77,
78, 80
Farms (Fundos) y Estancias (Related
Articles & Activities)
A new legacy for an ancient Valley. 76
91
move. 47
133
How to prepare a Patagonian Asado al
Palo. 263
San Carlos. 254
Posadas, pastas, and petroglyphs await
in Hipolito Yrigoyen. 93
Recharge in the heart of the Austral
Steppe. 129
284
San Lorenzo! 267
Father Antonio Ronchi 181, 230
Achen Theater Company Radio Theatre
Podcasts 206
Padre Ronchi Museum of Villa O’Higgins 183, 215
Padre Ronchi Works Foundation 30
Puerto Yungay 205
Sector Los Ñadis 206
Short Bike Circuit: Villa O’Higgins to the
Chapel Built by Padre Ronchi and the
Mayer River. 195
Somarco Ferry, The Padre Antonio
Ronchi 224, 274
Villa O’Higgins 204
Fiords [See also: Route of the
Calen Fiord 239
Jorge Montt Glacier 239
Mitchell Fiord 204, 233
Mouth of the Baker River 236
Padre Antonio Ronchi Ferry 224
Pascua River 239
Puerto Bravo Dock 224
Puerto Yungay 204, 205, 224
El Peregrino 225
235
Steffen Glacier 238
Fish & Fishing [See also: Route of the
Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit].
Chilean National Fishing & Aquaculture
Service (SERNAPESCA). 30
fishing. 68
Didymo Algae (didymosphenia geminata) 68
Guides & Excursions 111, 169, 216, 283
Patagonia. 65
Raise your glass and celebrate reaching
the heart of Patagonia! 181
289
Steppe. 129
Villa O’Higgins to Cisnes Lake Bike &
Fishing Route 195
Fishing Licenses 30
Flora & Fauna Tour Providers 110, 168,
215, 284
Food To-Go 164, 280
G
Gas Stations 101, 153, 209, 275
Gastronomy (Articles & Activities)
Day. 95
Java fix? 137
133
146
Serving a perfect yerba mate starts
with the water. 56
Sip the flavor of Patagonia, yerba mate.
53
Taste traditions that stand the test of
time. 191
Gastronomy (Recipes)
Palo. 263
Gastronomy (Where to Eat & Drink)
Bakeries (Panaderias) 284
Restaurants & Pubs 284
Supermarkets 284
To-Go 284
Getting Around
290
Air Transport 31, 152, 208, 273
Boat Transport 208, 274
Bus Transport 32, 100, 152, 208, 274
Chauffeurs & Transfers 33, 100, 153,
274
Gas Stations & Mechanics 101, 153,
209, 275
How to travel the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit using Public Transportation. 22
Rental Cars & Vehicles 34
Getting Here 7, 29
Glacial Footprint 190, 232
Patagonia Park. 86
Wind through the valleys of gauchos
229
Glaciers [See also: Bernardo O’Higgins
National Park; Guides & Excursions; Los
Glaciares National Park; Route of the
Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit; Safe
Travels; San Rafael Lagoon National Park;
San Lorenzo Conservation Area].
Antarctic Ice Sheet 188
Bravo Glacier 222
Calluqueo Glacier 222, 269, 270, 271
Cerro Torre Glacier 143
Chico Glacier 222
Colonia Glacier 73
De los Tres Glacier 141
Del Salto Glacier 73
El Tigre Glacier 183, 222, 223, 231
El Tigre Glacier Trail 183, 231
Entre Patagones Excursions 214
Exploradores Glacier 249
Greenland Ice Sheet 188
Jorge Montt Glacier 222, 239, 247
Leones Glacier 249
Mosco Glacier 183, 185, 222
Mosco Glacier Trail 183
Nef Glacier 249
Northern Patagonia Ice Field 188, 222,
238, 249
O’Higgins Glacier 180, 183, 189, 222
Hielo Sur 180
L/M Quetru 180
Robinson Crusoe - Deep Patagonia
214
Tsonek Expeditions 214
Villa O’Higgins Expeditions 214
Piedras Blancas Glacier 135, 142
San Lorenzo Glacier 222
San Rafael Lagoon Glacier 249
Solar Glacier 249
Southern Patagonia Ice Field 188, 189,
222, 238, 239
Steffen Glacier 222, 238, 249
Torres Del Paine National Park 188
Vargas Glacier 73
Viedma Glacier 135
Glaciers (Articles & Activities)
Answers to your questions about the
science of ICE. 187
Lorenzo Range. 268
185
Overlook. 142
Overlook. 143
Glacier. 269
Viedma Lake and Glacier Multisport
Excursion 145
Glaciers (Resources & Additional Reading)
Benn, Douglas I. and Evands, David J.A.
1998. Glaciers and glaciation. Arnold.
190
Derruau, Max. “The system of glacial
erosion.” In Geomorphology. Section
3, Chapter 2. Barcelona: Ariel, 2nd Ed.,
1991. 190
Exploring Glaciers. Melody S. Mis. 2009.
190
Formation and Characteristics of glacier
ice. Encyclopedia Britannica. Academic
Edition. 190
Glacier hydrology. Encyclopedia Britannica. Academic Edition. 190
Glaciers. Isaac Nadeau. 2006. 190
Glaciers. Larry Dane Brimner. 2000.
190
Hambrey, Michael, Alean, Jürg. Glaciers.
Cambridge University Press, 2004. ISBN
0-521-82808-2 190
Icebergs and Glaciers. Seymour Simon.
1999. 190
Icebergs, Ice Caps, and Glaciers. Allan
Fowler. 1997. 190
Icebergs. Stuart A. Kallen. 2003. 190
Knight, Peter G. 1999. Glaciers. Stanley
Thornes Ltd. 190
Learning about the Earth: Glaciers.
Colleen Sexton. 2008. 190
Mattern, Joanne. Antarctica: The world’s
largest glacier. The Rosen Publishing
Group, 2004. ISBN 0-8239-6874-X 190
Strahler, Arthur N. (1992, reprinted
1997) Physical Geology, chap. 18: Glaciers and glaciations of the Pleistocene,
Barcelona: Ed ISBN 84-282-0770-4
Omega 190
Tarbuck, E., 1999, Earth Sciences: An Introduction to Physical Geology, Madrid,
Prentice Hall. 190
Glaciers (Terminology)
Alpine Glaciers 189
Basal slip 188
Cirque Glaciers 189
Climate change 188
Compression of ice 188
Eustatic change 190
Firnification 187, 188
Geomorphic agents 190
Glacial Footprint 190
Ice Fields 189
Internal flow 187
Large Ice Sheets or Caps 189
Moraine 188
Natural systems 190
Outlet glaciers 188
Plastic 187
Recrystallization of snow 187
Sediment 190
Small Icecaps 189
Valley Glaciers 189
Gobernador Gregores, AR [See also:
Circuit - Stage 2].
Steppe. 129
291
wilderness? 127
Guides & Excursions
Bike Guides & Rental 111, 169, 217
Captains & Boats 109, 166, 214, 281
Fishing Guides 111, 169, 216, 283
Flora & Fauna 110, 168, 215, 284
Hiking & Mountain Sports 109, 164,
214, 280
History & Culture 110, 167, 215, 282
Horses & Horseback Riding 168, 216,
284
Logistics & Porter Services - Stage 3
209
Overland Tour Providers 109, 166,
215, 282
H
Hikes & Hiking [See also: Guides &
Excursions; Protected Areas, Safe Travels;
Circuit].
Hikes & Hiking (Routes)
85
Lorenzo Range. 268
Day hike to Lago de Diablo (Devil’s
Lake) 144
185
Overlook. 142
South America. 125
Patagonia Park. 86
292
71
Camping and the Blanco River) 141
Overlook. 143
Glacier. 269
244
Desierto in route to Chile 178
Villa O’Higgins to Puerto Bahamondes
Bike & Hike. 194
Park. 80
Hikes & Hiking (Safety Tips & Articles)
Hiking in Patagonia with your kids. 70
Tips for hiking in Patagonia. 60
When Crossing Streams & Rivers 66
Hikes & Hiking ( Guides & Excursions)
109, 164, 214, 280
Hipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas, AR [See
also: Route of the Undiscovered Patagonia
Circuit - Stage 1].
91
Day. 95
History & Culture
Day. 95
Festival. 82
move. 47
Java fix? 137
Discover the earliest human societies in South America. 125 [See also
UNESCO World Heritage Site Cueva
de las Manos].
133
Patagonia Park. 86
Palo. 263
146
San Carlos. 254
Padre Ronchi Works Foundation 30
pre-Columbian Cultures 52
and Yerba Mate 53
Aoniken 52, 76, 86, 93, 94
Cerro de los Indios 94
Chalía River 133
Cueva de las Manos UNESCO World
Heritage Site 125
Kawéskar 239
Perito Moreno National Park 127
petroglyphic and archaeological sites
94
Tamales 146
Tehuelche 52, 76, 86, 92, 93, 94, 125,
133, 134
Steppe. 129
235
Serving a perfect yerba mate starts
with the water. 56
Sip the flavor of Patagonia, yerba mate.
53
and present. 50
time. 191
251
Park. 80
229
History & Culture Tour Providers 110,
167, 215, 282
Horses & Horseback Riding [See also:
Farms (Fundos) & Estancias; Route of
the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit; Safe
Travels].
Best practices for horse riding in Patagonia. 256
Horseback Riding at Quetru Lake 239
Horseback Riding Guides 168, 216,
284
Horseback Riding in Fundo San Lorenzo 268
Horseback Riding Service Providers
168, 216, 284
San Carlos. 254
the heart of Patagonia!
Welcome to Villa O’Higgins, the heart
of Patagonia. 181
293
251
229
Huemul (hippocamelus bisulcus) 57
85
83
Festival. 82
Driving the roads of Patagonia on your
own. 17
71
San Carlos. 254
Support the critical work of the Tamango National Reserve. 58
I
Ice and Ice Fields [See: Glaciers].
K
Katalalixar National Reserve 238 [See
also: Birds; Guides & Excursions; Huemul;
Safe Travels].
Kids & Families [See also: Route of the
Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit; Safe
Travels].
Kids & Families (Activities & Excursions)
91
294
Festival. 82
fishing. 68
Java fix? 137
Overlook. 142
South America. 125
71
Horseback Ride Around Fundo los
Cipreses 254
146
Steppe. 129
235
244
and present. 50
Park. 80
Argentina. 88
Kid-friendly Tourism Information 29, 98,
150, 207, 272
Places to Visit
251
Welcome to Villa O’Higgins, the heart
of Patagonia. 181
San Lorenzo! 267
Kids & Families (Things to Learn About)
science of ICE. 187
83
Day. 95
133
Palo. 263
Inform yourself about the Bird Lifezones in Aysén. 196
Rise to the challenge with these bird
watching basics. 200
time. 191
L
Lodging [See Where to Sleep].
Logistics & Porter Services - Stage 3 209
Los Glaciares National Park [See also:
Bird Species; Guides & Excursions;
Glaciers; Huemul; Safe Travels].
Camping in the Park
Camping Capri Lagoon (Free, Spaces
Limited) 159
Camping Confluencia (Free, Spaces
Limited) 159
Camping El Blanco River (Free, Climbers-only, Spaces Limited) 160
Camping Madsen (Free, Spaces
Limited) - Los Glaciares National
Park 160
Camping Poincenot (Free, Spaces
Limited) 160
El Huemul Ship - Ferry for Crossing of
Laguna/Lago del Desierto 208
Lodging in El Chaltén 154
Park Guard Ceferino Fonzo Information Center, 151
Trails & Excursions:
Day Hike to the Piedras Blancas
Glacier Overlook. 142
Camping and the Blanco River). 141
Overlook. 143
Trekking the shores of Laguna/Lago
del Desierto in route to Chile. 178
UNESCO World Heritage Site 138
151 [See also: Bird Species; Glaciers;
Guides & Excursions; Huemul; Safe
Travels].
295
M
Mechanics 101, 153, 209, 275
Medical Services 30, 99, 151, 207, 273
24
Mountain Sport Guides & Excursions
109, 164, 214, 280
N
National Fishing & Aquaculture Service of
Chile (SERNAPESCA). 30
National Forestry Corporation of Chile
(CONAF)
Caleta Tortel Office 272
Cochrane Office 98
Regional Offices in Coyhaique 30
National Parks [See: Bernardo O’Higgins
National Park; Los Glaciares National
Park; Perito Moreno National Park; San
Rafael Lagoon National Park].
National Reserves [See: Tamango National
Reserve; Katalalixar National Reserve].
Ñ
Ñadis Sector 251 [See also: Route of the
Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit. Stage 4].
Best practices for horse riding in
Patagonia. 256
Camping in the Sector 277
San Carlos. 254
251
O
Overland Tour Providers 109, 166, 215,
282
P
296
Padre Antonio Ronchi [See: Father Antonio Ronchi].
Patagonia Park 98 [See also: Bird Species;
Guides & Excursions; Huemul; Safe
Travels].
85
83
Camping at the Casa de Piedra (Stone
House) in Valley Chacabuco 106
Camping Westwinds 106
Festival. 82
Patagonia Park. 86
Hiking in Valley Chacabuco. 78
Restaurant at Patagonia Park 108
The Lodge at Valle Chacabuco 103
Park. 80
Perito Moreno, AR 7, 98
Perito Moreno National Park [See also:
Bird Species; Guides & Excursions; Safe
Travels].
Camping El Rincón (Free) 159
Camping (Free) at the Information
Center 159
Camping Lago Burmeister (Free) 159
Estancia La Oriental 154
Perito Moreno National Park Administrative Offices 150
wilderness? 127
Police 31, 99, 151, 207, 272
Postal Services 31, 99, 152, 207, 273
Pre-Columbian [See: History & Culture].
Private Parks & Nature Reserves [See:
Los Huemules Private Nature Reserve;
Patagonia Park].
Protected Areas [See: Bernardo O’Higgins
National Park; Caiquenes Lagoon
Conservation Area; Katalalixar National
Reserve; Los Glaciares National Park;
Los Huemules Private Nature Reserve;
Patagonia Park; Perito Moreno National
Park; San Lorenzo Conservation Area; San
Rafael Lagoon National Park; Tamango
National Reserve; UNESCO World
Heritage Site Cueva de las Manos].
Public Transportation
Air Transport 31, 152, 208, 273
Boat Transport 208, 274
Bus Transport 32, 100, 152, 208, 274
Puerto Yungay, CH. [See: Route of the
Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit - Stage
4].
R
Recipes
Palo. 263
Rental Cars & Vehicles 34
Restaurants & Pubs 107, 160, 212, 277
Road Conditions & Information 30
own. 17
The roads of Patagonia are much
more than JUST an ingredient in the
adventure! 122
Circuit. 6
Service Directory for Before & After
the Circuit 29
Stage 1 - Meander Within the Patagonia
Grasslands. 37, 40
Section 1A: Cochrane - Patagonia Park
Visitor Center (28.2 Km). 41
Section 1B: Patagonia Park Visitor
Center - Casa de Piedra Camping
Area (26 Km). 42
Section 1C: Casa de Piedra Camping
Area - Chilean Military Post (32.7
Km). 44
Section 1D: Chilean Military Post Ghio Lake & Suyai Estancia Sector
(33.3 Km). 45
Section 1E: Ghio Lake & Suyai Estancia Sector - Bajo Caracoles (68.3
Km). 46
Service directory for Stage 1. 98
Stage 2 - Follow the Sun through
Austral Steppe. 113, 115
Section 2A: Bajo Caracoles - Crossing
RN 40, RP35, RP37, Las Horquetas
Sector (101 Km). 116
Section 2B: Crossing RN 40, RP35,
RP37, Las Horquetas Sector - Gobernador Gregores (117 Km). 117
Section 2C: Gobernador Gregores Crossing RP27, RN288 (115 Km).
119
Section 2D: Crossing RP27, RN288 Tres Lagos (148 Km). 120
Section 2E: Tres Lagos - El Chaltén
(122 Km). 121
Service Directory for Stage 2 150
Stage 3 - Traverse the Andes to the Ice
Fields. 171, 173
Section 3A: El Chaltén - Northern
Shore of Laguna/Lago del Desierto
(44.6 Km). 175
Section 3B: Northern Shore of Laguna/Lago del Desierto - Candelario
Mansilla (20.5 Km). 176
Section 3C: Boat travel, Candelario
Mansilla - Villa O’Higgins (58.4 Km).
177
Service Directory for Stage 3. 207
Stage 4 - Dwell within Glaciers, Fiords
and Rivers. 219, 221
Section 4A: Villa O’Higgins - Camp
Pioneer (43.1 Km). 223
Section 4B: Camp Pioneer - Puerto
Bravo Dock at Mitchell Fiord (55.2
Km). 224
Section 4C: Puerto Bravo Dock at
Mitchell Fiord - Caleta Tortel (51.4
Km). 225
Section 4D: Caleta Tortel - Los Ñadis
Sector (80.7 Km). 227
Section 4E: Los Ñadis Sector - Cochrane (44.3 Km). 228
297
Service Directory for Stage 4. 272
S
Safe Travels
Bike touring along Patagonia roads. 20
24
Consideration, prevention and management of risk and accidents during your
trip. 15
Argentina. 88
Discovering Patagonia with your kids.
70
own. 17
Patagonia. 65
69
The fundamental philosophy for travel
in Patagonia? Self-sufficiency. 13
The roads of Patagonia are much
more than JUST an ingredient in the
adventure! 122
Thinking of traveling with a pet? 27
Tips for hiking in Patagonia. 60
Safety & Health Services 30, 99, 151,
207, 272
San Lorenzo Conservation Area [See
science of ICE. 187
83
Camping, Fundo San Lorenzo 277
Lorenzo Range. 268
Glacier. 269
You’re finally ready.
298
Meet marvelous Mt. San Lorenzo! 267
San Rafael Lagoon National Park [See
CONAF Offices Caleta Tortel 272
Spas & Relaxation 169, 217
Stage 1 - Meander Within the Patagonia
Grasslands [See: Route of the
Stage 2 - Follow the Sun through Austral
Steppe [See: Route of the Undiscovered
Patagonia Circuit].
Stage 3 - Traverse the Andes to the Ice
Fields [See: Route of the Undiscovered
Patagonia Circuit].
Stage 4 - Dwell within Glaciers,
Fiords and Rivers [See: Route of the
Supermarkets 108, 163, 213, 279
T
Tamango National Reserve 57, 77, 82, 84,
98 [See also: Birds; Huemul; Guides &
Excursions; Safe Travels].
85
83
Camping, CONAF Boat Dock Area
106
Camping, Las Correntadas Beach Area
106
Festival. 82
fishing. 68
71
Park Guard & Guide (Boat Excursion)
109
Tourism Information 29, 98, 150, 207, 272
Towns along the Circuit [See: Bajo
Caracoles, AR; Caleta Tortel, CH;
Cochrane, CH; Coyhaique, CH;
Gobernador Gregores, AR; El Calafate,
AR; El Chaltén, AR; Hipolito Yrigoyen Lago Posadas, AR; Perito Moreno, AR; Tres
Lagos, AR;Villa O’Higgins, CH].
Traditional Lodging. See Where to Sleep
Transfers & Chauffeurs 33, 100, 153, 274
Tres Lagos, AR [See also: Route of the
133
Service Directory for Stage 2 150
U
Map of Town 182
time. 191
229
W
Where to Sleep
Cabañas 104, 158, 211, 276
Camping & Shelters 105, 159, 212, 277
Traditional Lodging 101, 154, 209, 275
UNESCO World Heritage Site Cueva de
las Manos 125.
Cabaña at the Cueva de las Manos
Estancia 158
Cueva de las Manos Estancia Tours 164
South America. 125
Hospedaje at the Cueva de las Manos
Estancia 154
Restaurant at the Cueva de las Manos
Estancia 160
Sleeping Shelter at the Cueva de las
Manos Estancia 159
Tours 164
V
Villa O’Higgins, CH. [See also: Route of
the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit Stages 3 & 4].
185
299
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