2518 General Directions e
Transcription
2518 General Directions e
English 8 5 1 11 4 9 10 13 6 The Pattern ......... SYMBOLS GRAIN LINE Place on straight grain of fabric parallel to selvage 14 16 18 21 12A PLACE SOLID LINE on fold of fabric. ............ CENTER FRONT OR BACK of garment. 22 DOTS 12 1-FRONT -A,B 2-POCKET -A 3-LOWER POCKET -A 4-NECK BAND -A,B 5-BACK -A,B 6-BACK FACING -A,B 7-HAT CROWN -A 8-HAT BAND -A 9-HAT TIE END -A 10-HAT CROWN -B,C 11-HAT TOP -B,C 12(12A,12B) -FRONT AND BACK -C 13-NECK FACING -C 14-SLEEVE -C 15-COLLAR FRONT -C 16-COLLAR BACK -C 17-VEIL -C 18-FRONT AND BACK -D,E 19-FRONT AND BACK FACING -D,E 20-ELASTIC GUIDE FOR NECKLINE -D,E 21-ELASTIC GUIDE FOR WAIST -D,E 22-SCARF -E B B C E C ★ ✻ pattern printed side up Trim enclosed seams into layers Trim corners Clip inner curves SELS. USE PIECES 6 10 11 22" TO 25" (55CM TO 64CM) FUSIBLE ALL SIZES 11 6 10 10 SELS. C COSTUME NOTE: BEFORE CUTTING FABRIC JOIN PIECE IN PARENTHESIS TO CORRESPONDING PIECE FOLLOWING INSTRUCTIONS ON TISSUE PATTERN. To Quick Mark: PIN pattern to fabric as shown in Cutting Layouts. • FOR DOUBLE THICKNESS: Fold fabric with RIGHT sides together. • Snip edge of fabric to mark notches, ends of fold lines and center lines. • Pin mark dots. • FOR SINGLE THICKNESS: Place fabric RIGHT side up. • FOR PILE, SHADED OR ONE WAY DESIGN FABRICS: Use “with nap” layouts SPECIAL CUTTING NOTES ★ If layout shows a piece extending past fold, cut out all pieces except piece that extends. Open out fabric to single thickness. Cut extending piece on RIGHT side of fabric in position shown. Mark small ✻ arrows along both selvages indicating direction of nap or design. Fold fabric crosswise with RIGHT sides together, and cut along fold (a). Turn one fabric layer around so arrows on both layers go in the same direction. Place RIGHT sides together (b). 14 SELS. 11 22" TO 25" (55CM TO 64CM) FUSIBLE ALL SIZES 10 10 SELS. 4 8 FOLD 6 FOLD 12 INTERFACING 12A 12B 17 SEL. USE PIECE 6 6 22" TO 25" (55CM TO 64CM) FUSIBLE ALL SIZES SEL. FOLD B COSTUME- CUT CROSSWISE OF LENGTHWISE STRIPE ONLY SELVAGE 6 SEL. 4 11 10 FOLD CROSSWISE FOLD SELS. 5 44" 45" (115CM) WITH NAP SIZES S M L XL SELVAGE USE PIECE 13 13 22" TO 25" (55CM TO 64CM) FUSIBLE ALL SIZES 19 18 SELVAGES SEL. 19 18 SELVAGES FOLD 1 CROSSWISE FOLD USE PIECES 1 4 5 6 10 11 FOLD NECK FACING INTERFACING SELVAGES SELVAGES SELVAGES ✻ 5 44" 45" (115CM) WITH NAP SIZE XS DOUBLE THICKNESS 1 SEL. 13 ............. 44" 45" (115CM) WITH NAP ALL SIZES 3 ................ 2 9 SELVAGES SELVAGE b. USE PIECES 10 11 SELVAGES 7 SELVAGE HAT INTERFACING USE PIECES 18 19 PIECES 20 AND 21 ARE CUT OF ELASTIC 14 a. SELVAGES D,E COSTUME 44" 45" (115CM) WITH NAP ALL SIZES A COSTUME Notch outer curves CIRCLE your cutting layout. SELVAGE USE PIECES 12 (12A 12B) 13 14 17 NOTE: DETERMINE FINISHED LENGTH BEFORE CUTTING 44" 45" (115CM) WITH NAP ALL SIZES SEW garment following Sewing Directions. PIN or machine-baste seams matching notches. STITCH 5/8" (1.5 cm) seams unless otherwise stated. PRESS seams open unless otherwise indicated clipping when necessary so seams will lie flat. • TRIM seams to reduce bulk, as shown below. • • • • INTERFACING See SPECIAL CUTTING NOTES POSITION OF PATTERN PIECES MAY VARY SLIGHTLY ACCORDING TO YOUR PATTERN SIZE USE PIECES 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 CUT ONE OF PIECE 2 Sewing AFTER CUTTING: Transfer markings to WRONG side of fabric before removing pattern. Use pin and chalk method or dressmaker’s tracing paper and wheel. SELS. © Copyright 2009—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. HAT AND COLLAR SELVAGES USE PIECES 10 11 15 16 16 44" 45" (115CM) WITH NAP ALL SIZES 16 10 15 11 15 FOLD E SCARF USE PIECE 22 44" 45" (115CM) WITH NAP ALL SIZES SELVAGES 22 FOLD CROSSWISE FOLD pattern printed side down When lengthen or shorten lines are not given, make adjustments at lower edge of pattern. CROSSWISE FOLD Cutting Layouts D C E SEAM ALLOWANCE: 5/8" (1.5cm) unless otherwise stated is included but not printed on MULTI-SIZE PATTERNS. Mark your size with colored felt tip pen. See chart on tissue for how to use MULTISIZE PATTERNS. BEFORE CUTTING: PRESS pattern pieces with a warm dry iron. PRE-SHRINK fabric by pre-washing washables or steam-pressing nonwashables. ✻ A TO SHORTEN: At lengthen or shorten lines, make an even pleat taking up amount needed. Tape in place. LENGTHEN OR SHORTEN LINES C A D CUTTING LINE 19 B A Cutting/Marking ADJUST IF NEEDED Make adjustments before placing pattern on fabric. TO LENGTHEN: Cut pattern between lengthen or shorten lines. Spread pattern evenly, the amount needed and tape to paper. NOTCHES 17 info@simplicity.com General Directions 12B 20 E-mail SELVAGE 7 http://www.simplicity.com 1-888-588-2700 3 e CROSSWISE FOLD 2 15 Web Site U.S. & Canada Toll-Free 22 pieces given ✁ 1/4 DOUBLE THICKNESS 2518 ® English 2518 Sewing Directions 2/4 OUTER INNER FABRIC KEY RIGHT SIDE WRONG SIDE INTERFACING 10 10. Fuse interfacing to WRONG side of back facing, following manufacturer’s directions. To EDGE FINISH unnotched edge...stitch 1/4" (6mm) from edge, turn under along stitching and stitch OR zig-zag over the edge OR overlock/serge over the edge. LINING Read General Directions on page 1 before you begin. 11 Sewing procedures ITALICIZED in Sewing Directions are defined below: CLIP CURVES 11. With RIGHT sides together, pin back facing to neck and shoulder edges (over front), matching centers back and small dots. Stitch shoulder and neck edges, pivoting with needle in fabric at small dots. Trim back neck seam and corners. Clip front shoulder seam allowance at end of facing. CLIP CURVES to make seams lie flat. Inner Curve - Make little clips, or snips, in the seam allowance just to, but not through, the stitching. Outer Curve - Cut little wedge-shaped notches from seam allowance. 12 TRIM CORNERS - so the finished corner will form a sharp point when turned RIGHT side out. Cut off excess seam allowance at point and at each side. TRIM CORNERS 12. Turn facing to INSIDE; press, pressing shoulder seams open. COSTUME A, B FOR VIEW A- 1 2 3 1. Press under 1/4" (6mm) on upper edge of pocket. Turn upper edge to OUTSIDE along fold line, forming facing. Stitch along seam line on raw edges; trim to 1/4" (6mm). 13 13. On OUTSIDE, top-stitch 1-1/8” (2.8cm) from back neck edge and 1/4” (6mm) from first stitching, connecting to previous stitching on front neck edge, as shown. 2. Turn facing to INSIDE, turning under raw edges along stitching; press. Stitch facing close to inner edge and 1/4” (6mm) above first stitching. 3. Prepare the two lower pockets same as pocket, see steps 1 and 2. On OUTSIDE, pin pocket to LEFT front, placing upper corners at upper large dots. Pin lower pockets to fronts, placing upper corners at remaining large dots, as shown. Stitch close to side and lower edges and 1/4” (6mm) away, back-stitching at upper edge to reinforce. Stitch along stitching lines as shown, back-stitching at upper edge to reinforce. 4 5 14 14. Press up hem allowance at sleeve edges. Press under 1/4" (6mm) on raw edge. 15 15. Pin front to back at underarm, matching notches and large dots, having raw edges even. Open out hem allowance at back edge of sleeve and turn it over front hem so that all edges are even. Pin entire underarm seam. Stitch underarm seam above large dot, back-stitching at large dot to reinforce seam. 16 CONTINUE AS FOLLOWS FOR A,B 7 4. To reinforce front neck line, stitch 5/8” (1.5cm) from raw edge and along stitching lines at center. Clip to reinforced stitching at center front, being careful not to clip stitching. 16. Clip seam to stitching at end of sleeve hem, as shown. Trim seam in hem area. CLIP CURVES. 17 17. Turn hem back in place. Press underarm seam open. Stitch hem in place and 1/4” (6mm) from first stitching. 18 5. Press under neck edge along stitching. 6 18. Press up hem. Press under 1/4" (6mm) on raw edge. Stitch hem in place and 1/4" (6mm) from first stitching. Press under 5/8" (1.5cm) on slit opening edges. Press under 1/4" (6mm) on raw edge; stitch, squaring stitching 1/4" (6mm) above opening. 6. With WRONG sides together, fold band in half lengthwise, matching notches; press. Machine-baste raw edges together. 8 7. Lap ends of neck band, lapping LEFT over RIGHT, matching large dots at center front, having raw edges even; pin. Machine-baste ends of neck band together along seam line, basting through all thicknesses. Machine-baste neck band vertically through center where folded edges meet, as shown. FOR VIEW A- 19 20 9 8. On OUTSIDE, pin pressed neck edge of top along seam line on band, matching centers and notches. Top-stitch close to pressed edge of top and 1/4” (6mm) from first stitching, as shown. 9. Baste front to back at shoulder seams, matching small dots. © Copyright 2009—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. 19. Machine-stitch hat band 3/8" (1cm) from long edges between notches, as shown. Clip to stitching between notches, being careful not to clip stitching. HAT BAND HAT CROWN HAT CROWN 20. With RIGHT sides together, pin hat crown to hat band, placing at center fold at large dot, matching notches, having raw edges even. Stitch in 3/8" (1cm) seam. With RIGHT sides together, stitch remaining hat crown to hat band in the same manner. English 2518 3/4 5 21 21. Fold tie end in half, lengthwise, with RIGHT sides together. Stitch in 3/8" (1cm) seam, leaving end with large and small dots open. 22 5. Turn facing to INSIDE. Press. Baste facing to garment close to outer edge. On OUTSIDE, stitch as basted. 22. Turn tie end RIGHT side out; press. On OUTSIDE, pin tie ends to hat, matching large and small dots, having raw edges even. Baste. 6. Stitch sleeve to armhole edge of front and back. Press. 6 7. Pin front to back at entire underarm seam, matching seams and large dots. Stitch seam from large dot to edge of sleeve, back-stitching at large dot to reinforce. Press up sleeve hem. Press under 1/4" (6mm) on raw edge. Stitch close to inner pressed edge. 7 24 23 8 23. Fold hat along fold line, with RIGHT sides together, matching seams, having raw edges even. Stitch lower edge in a 3/8" (1cm) seam, leaving an opening large enough to turn. Trim seam. Continue same as Views A, B, see step 18. 8. Separate Velcro® strip for neckline and place just below neck edge, stitching the fuzzy half to WRONG side of RIGHT back opening edge. Stitch LEFT back opening edge just over one long edge of loopy side of Velcro® in same manner. (Note that the loopy side extends beyond the back opening edge...this is to reduce bulk at back opening. 24. Turn hat RIGHT side out. Press. On OUTSIDE, stitch close to lower edges. FOR VIEW B- 10 9 9. Stitch collar front to collar back at shoulder seams. 25. Fuse interfacing to WRONG side of each hat top and hat crown section, following manufacturer’s directions. With WRONG sides together, baste top sections together and crown sections together. 25 10. Stitch facing same as collar. With RIGHT sides together, stitch collar to facing, leaving an opening at one side of center back large enough for turning. TRIM CORNERS. CLIP CURVES. 26. Stitch center back seam of hat crown. Press. Pin crown to top, matching centers and notches, clipping seam allowance of crown where necessary. Stitch. Trim seam. Press. 26 . 27 28 27. On OUTSIDE, place ribbon over lower seam allowance, having inner edge of ribbon along seam line, turning under and lapping one end of ribbon at center back. Stitch ribbon close to inner edge. Trim seam close to stitching, being careful not to cut ribbon. 11. Turn collar RIGHT side out. Press. Slip-stitch opening closed. Attach Velcro® for collar same as for garment, see step 8. 11 12 12. To narrow hem all edges of veil, press under 5/8" (1.5cm). Tuck under raw edge to meet crease; press. Stitch hem close to inner pressed edge. With WRONG sides together, fold veil along fold line. Press. 28. Press ribbon to INSIDE along stitching. Slip-stitch inner edge of ribbon to INSIDE of crown. COSTUME C 1 2 NOTE: You have cut two hat top and two hat crown sections of the same fabric. One top and one crown will be referred to as facing. 13 1. Fuse interfacing to WRONG side of neck facing, following manufacturer’s directions. 13. Fuse interfacing to WRONG side of each hat top and hat crown section, following manufacturer’s directions. Machinestitch 5/8'' (1.5cm) from notched edge of each hat crown section. To EDGE FINISH unnotched edge...stitch 1/4" (6mm) from edge, turn under along stitching and baste OR zig-zag over the edge OR overlock/serge over the edge. 2. With RIGHT sides together, pin facing to back and neck edge, matching small dots and centers. Baste along center back line. Stitch along stitching lines on back of facing and along seam line at neck edge, pivoting with needle in fabric at small dots, as shown. To reinforce inner point, stitch over first stitching. 3 4 3. Slash back between stitching to small dot at the point, being careful not to clip through stitching. TRIM CORNERS and seam; CLIP CURVES. 4. To understitch, press facing away from garment; press seam toward facing. Facing side up, stitch close to seam through facing and seam allowances as far as possible. © Copyright 2009—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. 14. Stitch center back seam of hat crown. Press. Pin crown to top, matching centers and notches, clipping seam allowance of crown where necessary to conform to the shape of the top. Stitch. Trim seam. Press. 14 15 16 15. Stitch seams of hat facing sections in same manner as for hat. With RIGHT sides together, pin facing to hat, matching centers and seams. Stitch lower edge leaving an opening to turn. 16. Turn hat RIGHT side out. Press. Slip-stitch opening edges together invisibly. English 2518 4/4 7 7. Cut elastic the length of elastic guide for neckline and the length of elastic guide for waist. Insert corresponding piece of elastic through casings in openings at side of facing. Overlap ends of elastic 1" (2.5cm) and hold with a safety pin. Try on garment and adjust to fit. Stitch ends of elastic together securely. Slip-stitch opening edges of each casing together. Distribute fullness evenly. TIP-To secure elastic so it won’t twist in wearing, stitch through all thicknesses of casing in the groove of each seam. 17 17. Open out veil. With RIGHT sides together and short portion of veil toward top of hat, pin veil to front of hat, placing fold line along placement line on hat, matching small dots. Handsew veil to hat along fold line, between small dots. Smooth veil over top, matching centers. Hand-sew end of veil to top of hat. To wear, turn long edge of veil over hat, as shown on pattern envelope. FOR VIEW DCut lower edge of garment in a wavy pattern, using pattern envelope as a guide. 8 FOR VIEW E8. Press up hem. COSTUME D, E Press under 1/4" (6mm) on raw edge. Stitch close to inner pressed edge. 1 1. Stitch front and back sections together at side seams. Press 9 . 9. On OUTSIDE, pin ribbon to garment, having lower edge of ribbon 2" (5cm) above lower edge of garment. Turn under and lap one end at one side seam. Stitch ribbon close to long edges. 10 10. Stitch scarf sections together at ends with pleat markings. Press. 3 2 2. Stitch front and back facing sections together at side seams, leaving open between each set of small dots. Press seams open. Press under each shoulder seam allowance and 1/4" (6mm) at lower edge. 4 4. To understitch, press facing away from garment; press seam toward facing. Facing side up, stitch close to seam through facing and seam allowances as far as possible. 5 6 5. Turn garment WRONG side out. Press. With RIGHT sides together, stitch shoulder seam of garment, being careful not to catch in pressed edges of facing. Trim seam. Press. 6. Slip-stitch pressed edges of facing together at shoulder. Pin facing to garment. Stitch facing close to lower pressed edge. To form casings, stitch 5/8" (1.5cm) from neck edge and previous stitching at lower edge. © Copyright 2009—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. 11. With RIGHT sides together, fold scarf in half lengthwise, matching seams. Stitch, leaving an opening in one edge large enough for turning. TRIM CORNERS. 11 3. Pin facing to garment at armhole and neck edges, leaving shoulder edge open. Trim seam; CLIP CURVES. 12. Turn scarf RIGHT side out. Press. Slip-stitch opening closed. To make pleats, on OUTSIDE, fold along solid lines. Bring folds to broken lines; pin. Baste across pleats 3/8" (1cm) on each side of seam. On OUTSIDE, pin one piece of ribbon to each end of scarf, having lower edge of ribbon 2" (5cm) in from finished edge, turning under 1/2" (1.3cm) at each end. Stitch ribbon close to long edges. 12 13. With RIGHT sides face up, pin scarf to shoulder, as shown, matching seams, having outer edges even. Stitch scarf 3/8" (1cm) from each side of shoulder seam and close to edges. 13 14 14. Make thread loops at side seams and centers of front and back at waist casing each large enough to insert cord twice. Using pattern envelope as a guide, starting at front, thread cord through front and side loops, criss-crossing through center back loop and back again to front through side loops. With garment on, criss-cross cords in front, wrap around back and tie in front at your waistline. If desired, make thread loops at side seams at your waist. Knot each end of cord.