ROBE 1 2.

Transcription

ROBE 1 2.
ENGLISH
FABRIC CUTTING LAYOUTS
4322
Indicates Bustline, Waistline, Hipline and/or Biceps. Measurements
refer to circumference of Finished Garment (Body Measurement +
Wearing Ease + Design Ease). Adjust Pattern if necessary.
Page 1 (2 pages)
ROBE
60" (150 cm) *
S/T
16
1. FLEECE NOTE
S/L
2. Pressing fleece is not recommended. Never place an iron directly on
fleece. Direct contact may leave a permanent imprint or melt the fabric. If
pressing is necessary, finger-pressing should be adequate, or hold the iron
above the fabric and steam.
Lines shown are CUTTING LINES, however, 5/8" (15mm) SEAM
ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED, unless otherwise indicated. See SEWING
INFORMATION for seam allowance.
4322
Find layout(s) by Garment/View, Fabric Width and Size. Layouts show
approximate position of pattern pieces; position may vary slightly
according to your pattern size.
All layouts are for with or without nap unless specified. For fabrics with nap,
pile, shading or one-way design, use WITH NAP layout.
Pockets
TOP
PIECES: 8 & 10
3. Turn upper edge of POCKET (1) to outside on foldline.
Stitch hem to pocket at sides. Trim as shown.
F/P
45, 60" (115, 150cm) *
AS/TT
S/L
4. Turn to inside along foldline. Press under 5/8” (1.5cm)
on sides below hem and lower edge, folding in fullness at
corners.
CONTRAST (Top) PIECES: 9 & 11
S/L
Hand-sew hem in place.
45”,60" (115,150 cm) *
AS/TT
Position fabric as indicated on layout. If layout shows...
5. Pin applique to center of one pocket. Stitch in place by
hand or machine.
SINGLE THICKNESS—Place fabric right side up. (For Fur Pile fabrics,
place pile side down.)
DOUBLE THICKNESS
WITH FOLD—Fold fabric right sides together.
PANTS
WITHOUT FOLD—With right sides together, fold fabric
CROSSWISE. Cut fold from selvage to selvage (A). Keeping right sides together, turn upper layer completely
around so nap runs in the same direction as lower layer.
45" (115 cm)
S/T
7-8-10-12
PIECES: 12 & 13
S/L
GRAINLINE—Place on straight grain of fabric, keeping line parallel to selvage or fold. ON "with nap" layout arrows should
point in the same directions. (On Fur Pile fabrics, arrows point
in direction of pile.)
13
12
S/L
45" (115 cm)
S/T
14-16
13
12
FOLD—Place edge indicated exactly along fold of fabric.
NEVER cut on this line.
When pattern piece is shown like this...
S/L
60" (150 cm)
AS/TT
• Cut other pieces first, allowing enough fabric to cut this
piece (A). Fold fabric and cut piece on fold, as shown
(B).
13
Cut piece only once. Cut other pieces first, allowing enough fabric to cut
this piece. Open fabric; cut piece on single layer.
12
Seams and Facing
Cut out all pieces along cutting line indicated for desired size using long,
even scissor strokes, cutting notches outward.
Transfer all markings and lines of construction before removing pattern tissue. (Fur Pile fabrics, transfer markings to wrong side.)
ROBE
1 Pocket
7. REINFORCE inner corner of front along dotted
lines, pivoting at small circle. Clip to circle.
SEWING INFORMATION
5/8" (1.5cm) SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED,
(unless otherwise indicated)
NOTE: Broken-line boxes ( a! b !c! ) in layouts represent pieces cut by
measurements provided.
2 Front
6. Pin a pocket to each FRONT (2), matching small
and large circles. EDGESTITCH sides and lower
edge of pocket.
ILLUSTRATION SHADING KEY
3 Back
ROBE & BELT
4 Upper Collar and Front Facing
PIECES: 1,2,3,4,5,6 & 7
45" (115 cm) *
S/T
7-8
5 Sleeve
6 Loop
7 Belt
Right Side
Wrong Side
Interfacing
Lining
Underlining
Press as you sew. Press seams flat, then press open, unless otherwise
instructed. Clip seam allowances, where necessary, so they lay flat.
S/L
TOP
8. Stitch front sections together
8 Front
at center back.
9 Sleeve
Trim enclosed
seams into layers
10 Back
11 Neck Band
Clip
inner
curves
GLOSSARY
45" (115 cm) *
S/T
10-12-14-16
PANTS
12 Front
Sewing terms appearing in BOLD TYPE in Sewing Instructions are
explained below.
13 Back
S/L
BODY MEASUREMENTS
8
27
231/2
28
12
52
69
60
71
31
132
10
281/2
241/2
30
123/4
56
73
62
76
32.5
142
12
30
251/2
32
131/2
581/2
76
65
81
34.5
149
14
32
261/2
34
141/2
61
81
67
87
36
155
DOUBLE-STITCH-Stitch seam along seamline; stitch again 1/4” (6mm)
away in seam allowance using a straight stitch OR zigzag stitch; trim close
to second stitching OR overlock seam.
9. STAYSTITCH neck edge of BACK (3).
EDGESTITCH-Stitch close to finished edge or seam.
GIRLS’/FILLE
Size/Taille
7
Breast/Chest 26
Waist
23
Hip
27
Bk. Wst. Lgth. 111/2
Approx Height 50
T. poitrine
66
T. taille
58
T. hanches
69
Nuque à taille 29.5
Htr. approx. 127
Trim corners
Notch
outer
curves
16
34
271/2
36
15
611/2
86.5
70
91.5
38
156
NARROW HEM-Turn in hem; press, easing in fullness if necessary. Open
out hem. Turn in again so raw edge is along crease; press. Turn in along
crease; stitch.
60" (150 cm) *
S/T
7-8-10-12-14
S/L
REINFORCE-Stitch along seamline where indicated in sewing instructions,
using small machine stitches.
SLIPSTITCH-Slide needle through a folded edge, then pick up a thread of
underneath fabric.
STAYSTITCH-Stitch 1/8” (3mm) from seamline in seam allowance (usually
1/2” (13mm) from raw edge).
TOPSTITCH-On outside, stitch 1/4” (6mm) from edge, seam or previous
stitching, using presser foot as guide, or stitch where indicated in instructions.
© The McCall Pattern Co., 2003. All Rights Reserved. •Printed in U.S.A.
Hem
ENGLISH
4322
Page 2 (2 pages)
24. Turn lower edge of sleeve to inside along
foldline. Baste close to fold. Press. Hand-sew
in place.
10. Pin back to front at shoulders and neck
edge, matching notches, circles and center
backs, clipping neck edge of back where necessary. Stitch, pivoting at circles.
11. Trim neck seam allowances to 3/8” (1cm).
35. Fold belt in half lengthwise, right sides together.
Stitch, leaving an opening for
turning. Trim.
9. Make a 5/8” (1.5cm) NARROW HEM at lower
edge.
PANTS
36. Turn; press. SLIPSTITCH opening.
Front and Back
25. To form cuff, turn up 3” (7.5cm) to outside on
lower edge. Tack cuffs to sleeves at seams.
1. Stitch FRONT (12) to BACK (13) at inside leg
edges.
12. Press neck seam allowances toward
TOP
collar and shoulder seam allowances open.
Loops
13. Stitch UPPER COLLAR AND FRONT FACING (4) sections together at center backs.
1. NOTE: For knit garments, use a straight stitch or a
zigzag stitch, stretching fabric slightly while stitching.
26. Press under 3/8” (1cm) on long edges of LOOP
(6).
27. Fold loop in half lengthwise, wrong sides
together. EDGESTITCH long edges.
14. REINFORCE inner corners of
upper collar and front facings, pivoting at small circles. Clip to small circles. Press under on line of stitching.
Front and Back
28. Cut loop into two equal lengths.
15. Turn in seam allowance on
29. With right sides together, pin loops to robe over
neck and shoulder edges; press.
side seams, having one end extending 5/8” (1.5cm)
over lower small circle. Stitch 5/8” (1.5cm) from raw
edge. Trim end to 1/4” (6mm).
16. Pin upper collar and facing to
under collar and robe, matching
notches and seams. Stitch front
and collar edges. Trim seam
allowances.
2. Stitch center seam, matching inside
2. Pin SLEEVE (9) to armhole edges of FRONT (8) and BACK (10), right
leg seams.
sides together, matching notches. Stitch in DOUBLE-STITCH seams.
Press seam allowances away from sleeves.
3. Stitch again 1/4” (6mm) from first
stitching between small circles. Cut
seam allowances close to second
stitching.
4. Press seam allowances open above
notches.
5. Stitch front to back at sides.
30. Turn under 5/8” (1.5cm) on remaining end of
loop and pin to upper small circle. Stitch close to
turned-under edge.
3. Pin front and back together at side; pin sleeve edges together. Stitch in
a DOUBLE-STITCH seam. Press seam allowances toward back.
17. Turn facing to inside. Press.
18. Hand-sew pressed-under edges to neck
and shoulders over seams.
Hem
31. Turn lower edge of front facing to outside along
seam. Stitch across facing 1-1/4” (3.2cm) above
raw edge. Trim as shown.
Casing and Elastic
4. Finish lower edge of sleeve with a 5/8” (1.5cm)
Sleeves and Underarm Seams
19. With right sides together, pin SLEEVE (5) to
armhole edge, matching notches, underarm
edges and sleeve circle to shoulder seam. Baste.
Stitch. Stitch again 1/4” (6mm) in seam
allowances. Trim close to stitching.
NARROW HEM.
32. Turn facing to inside, turning up a 1-1/4” (3.2cm) hem. Baste close to
fold. Press. Baste hem in place close to upper edge, easing in fullness if
necessary. TOPSTITCH hem along upper basting, continuing across facing.
6. Turn upper edge of garment to inside along
foldline. Press.
7. Turn under 1/4” (6mm) on raw edge and stitch
in place, leaving an opening to insert elastic.
5. STAYSTITCH neck edge.
8. Cut a piece of elastic the measurement of waist
plus 1” (2.5cm). Insert elastic through casing. Lap
ends. Hold with safety pin. Try on and adjust if necessary. Stitch ends of elastic securely.
33. Catchstitch facing to hem.
20. Turn seam allowances toward robe.
6. Stitch center back seam in NECK BAND (11).
9. Stitch opening in casing, stretching elastic
while stitching.
21. Pin underarm seam of robe and
7. Fold neck band in half lengthwise, wrong sides togeth-
sleeve, matching armhole seams and
notches. Stitch.
er. Pin raw edges together.
22. To reinforce underarm curve, stitch
again over previous stitching between
notches.
23. Clip underarm seam allowances if
Belt
34. Stitch seam in BELT
(7), matching notches.
8. Pin neck band to neck edge, right sides together,
matching notches, centers and triangles. Stitch,
stretching neck band to fit. Stitch again 1/4” (6mm)
away in seam allowances. Trim close to stitching. Press
seam allowances toward garment.
Hem
10. Turn up 1-1/4” (3.2cm) on lower edges. Baste close
to fold. Turn in 1/4” (3.2 cm) on raw edge. Baste hem in
place close to upper edge. Press. TOPSTITCH hem in
place close to upper basting.
necessary to press open.
© The McCall Pattern Co., 2003 All Rights Reserved. •Printed in U.S.A.
ENGLISH
4322
Page 3 (3 pages)
PLANS DE COUPE
Indique: pointe de poitrine, ligne de taille, de hanches et/ou avantbras.
Ces mesures sont basées sur la circonférence du vêtement fini.
(Mesures du corps + Aisance confort + Aisance mode) Ajuster le
patron si nécessaire.
Les lignes épaisses sont les LIGNES DE COUPE, cependant, des rentrés de
15mm sont compris, sauf si indiqué différemment. Voir EXPLICATIONS DE
COUTURE pour largeur spécifiée des rentrés.
Choisir le(s) plan(s) de coupe selon modèle/largeur du tissu/taille. Les plans
de coupe indiquent la position approximative des pièces et peut légèrement varier selon la taille du patron.
Les plans de coupe sont établis pour tissu avec/sans sens. Pour tissu avec
sens, pelucheux ou certains imprimés, utiliser un plan de coupe AVEC
SENS.
Disposer le tissu selon le plan de coupe. Si ce dernier indique...
SIMPLE EPAISSEUR—Placer l’endroit sur le dessus. (Pour fausse fourrure,
placer le tissu l’endroit dessous.)
DOUBLE EPAISSEUR
AVEC PLIURE—Placer endroit contre endroit.
SANS PLIURE—Plier le tissu en deux sur la TRAME,
endroit contre endroit. Couper à la pliure, de lisière à
lisière (A). Placer les 2 épaisseurs dans le même sens du
tissu, endroit contre endroit (B).
DROIT FIL—A placer sur le droit fil du tissu, parallèlement aux
lisières ou au pli. Pour plan "avec sans," les flèches seront
dirigées dans la même direction. (Pour fausse fourrure, placer la pointe de la
flèche dans le sens descendant des poils.)
PLIURE—Placer la ligne du patron exactement sur la pliure NE
JAMAIS COUPER sur cette ligne.
Si la pièce se présente ainsi...
• Couper d’abord les autres pièces, réservant du tissu
(A). Plier le tissu et couper la pièce sur la pliure, comme
illustré (B).
Couper d’abord les autres pièces, réservant pour la pièce en question.
Déplier le tissu et couper la pièce sur une seule épaisseur.
Couper régulièrement les pièces le long de la ligne de coupe indiquée pour
la taille choisie, coupant les crans vers l’extérieur.
Marquer repères et lignes avant de retirer le patron. (Pour fausse fourrure,
marquer sur l’envers du tissu.)
NOTE: Les parties encadrées avec des pointillées sur les plans de coupe
( a! b! c! ) représentent les pièces coupées d'après les mesures données.
© The McCall Pattern Co., 2003 All Rights Reserved. •Printed in U.S.A.