ROBE 1 2.
Transcription
ROBE 1 2.
ENGLISH FABRIC CUTTING LAYOUTS 4322 Indicates Bustline, Waistline, Hipline and/or Biceps. Measurements refer to circumference of Finished Garment (Body Measurement + Wearing Ease + Design Ease). Adjust Pattern if necessary. Page 1 (2 pages) ROBE 60" (150 cm) * S/T 16 1. FLEECE NOTE S/L 2. Pressing fleece is not recommended. Never place an iron directly on fleece. Direct contact may leave a permanent imprint or melt the fabric. If pressing is necessary, finger-pressing should be adequate, or hold the iron above the fabric and steam. Lines shown are CUTTING LINES, however, 5/8" (15mm) SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED, unless otherwise indicated. See SEWING INFORMATION for seam allowance. 4322 Find layout(s) by Garment/View, Fabric Width and Size. Layouts show approximate position of pattern pieces; position may vary slightly according to your pattern size. All layouts are for with or without nap unless specified. For fabrics with nap, pile, shading or one-way design, use WITH NAP layout. Pockets TOP PIECES: 8 & 10 3. Turn upper edge of POCKET (1) to outside on foldline. Stitch hem to pocket at sides. Trim as shown. F/P 45, 60" (115, 150cm) * AS/TT S/L 4. Turn to inside along foldline. Press under 5/8” (1.5cm) on sides below hem and lower edge, folding in fullness at corners. CONTRAST (Top) PIECES: 9 & 11 S/L Hand-sew hem in place. 45”,60" (115,150 cm) * AS/TT Position fabric as indicated on layout. If layout shows... 5. Pin applique to center of one pocket. Stitch in place by hand or machine. SINGLE THICKNESS—Place fabric right side up. (For Fur Pile fabrics, place pile side down.) DOUBLE THICKNESS WITH FOLD—Fold fabric right sides together. PANTS WITHOUT FOLD—With right sides together, fold fabric CROSSWISE. Cut fold from selvage to selvage (A). Keeping right sides together, turn upper layer completely around so nap runs in the same direction as lower layer. 45" (115 cm) S/T 7-8-10-12 PIECES: 12 & 13 S/L GRAINLINE—Place on straight grain of fabric, keeping line parallel to selvage or fold. ON "with nap" layout arrows should point in the same directions. (On Fur Pile fabrics, arrows point in direction of pile.) 13 12 S/L 45" (115 cm) S/T 14-16 13 12 FOLD—Place edge indicated exactly along fold of fabric. NEVER cut on this line. When pattern piece is shown like this... S/L 60" (150 cm) AS/TT • Cut other pieces first, allowing enough fabric to cut this piece (A). Fold fabric and cut piece on fold, as shown (B). 13 Cut piece only once. Cut other pieces first, allowing enough fabric to cut this piece. Open fabric; cut piece on single layer. 12 Seams and Facing Cut out all pieces along cutting line indicated for desired size using long, even scissor strokes, cutting notches outward. Transfer all markings and lines of construction before removing pattern tissue. (Fur Pile fabrics, transfer markings to wrong side.) ROBE 1 Pocket 7. REINFORCE inner corner of front along dotted lines, pivoting at small circle. Clip to circle. SEWING INFORMATION 5/8" (1.5cm) SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED, (unless otherwise indicated) NOTE: Broken-line boxes ( a! b !c! ) in layouts represent pieces cut by measurements provided. 2 Front 6. Pin a pocket to each FRONT (2), matching small and large circles. EDGESTITCH sides and lower edge of pocket. ILLUSTRATION SHADING KEY 3 Back ROBE & BELT 4 Upper Collar and Front Facing PIECES: 1,2,3,4,5,6 & 7 45" (115 cm) * S/T 7-8 5 Sleeve 6 Loop 7 Belt Right Side Wrong Side Interfacing Lining Underlining Press as you sew. Press seams flat, then press open, unless otherwise instructed. Clip seam allowances, where necessary, so they lay flat. S/L TOP 8. Stitch front sections together 8 Front at center back. 9 Sleeve Trim enclosed seams into layers 10 Back 11 Neck Band Clip inner curves GLOSSARY 45" (115 cm) * S/T 10-12-14-16 PANTS 12 Front Sewing terms appearing in BOLD TYPE in Sewing Instructions are explained below. 13 Back S/L BODY MEASUREMENTS 8 27 231/2 28 12 52 69 60 71 31 132 10 281/2 241/2 30 123/4 56 73 62 76 32.5 142 12 30 251/2 32 131/2 581/2 76 65 81 34.5 149 14 32 261/2 34 141/2 61 81 67 87 36 155 DOUBLE-STITCH-Stitch seam along seamline; stitch again 1/4” (6mm) away in seam allowance using a straight stitch OR zigzag stitch; trim close to second stitching OR overlock seam. 9. STAYSTITCH neck edge of BACK (3). EDGESTITCH-Stitch close to finished edge or seam. GIRLS’/FILLE Size/Taille 7 Breast/Chest 26 Waist 23 Hip 27 Bk. Wst. Lgth. 111/2 Approx Height 50 T. poitrine 66 T. taille 58 T. hanches 69 Nuque à taille 29.5 Htr. approx. 127 Trim corners Notch outer curves 16 34 271/2 36 15 611/2 86.5 70 91.5 38 156 NARROW HEM-Turn in hem; press, easing in fullness if necessary. Open out hem. Turn in again so raw edge is along crease; press. Turn in along crease; stitch. 60" (150 cm) * S/T 7-8-10-12-14 S/L REINFORCE-Stitch along seamline where indicated in sewing instructions, using small machine stitches. SLIPSTITCH-Slide needle through a folded edge, then pick up a thread of underneath fabric. STAYSTITCH-Stitch 1/8” (3mm) from seamline in seam allowance (usually 1/2” (13mm) from raw edge). TOPSTITCH-On outside, stitch 1/4” (6mm) from edge, seam or previous stitching, using presser foot as guide, or stitch where indicated in instructions. © The McCall Pattern Co., 2003. All Rights Reserved. •Printed in U.S.A. Hem ENGLISH 4322 Page 2 (2 pages) 24. Turn lower edge of sleeve to inside along foldline. Baste close to fold. Press. Hand-sew in place. 10. Pin back to front at shoulders and neck edge, matching notches, circles and center backs, clipping neck edge of back where necessary. Stitch, pivoting at circles. 11. Trim neck seam allowances to 3/8” (1cm). 35. Fold belt in half lengthwise, right sides together. Stitch, leaving an opening for turning. Trim. 9. Make a 5/8” (1.5cm) NARROW HEM at lower edge. PANTS 36. Turn; press. SLIPSTITCH opening. Front and Back 25. To form cuff, turn up 3” (7.5cm) to outside on lower edge. Tack cuffs to sleeves at seams. 1. Stitch FRONT (12) to BACK (13) at inside leg edges. 12. Press neck seam allowances toward TOP collar and shoulder seam allowances open. Loops 13. Stitch UPPER COLLAR AND FRONT FACING (4) sections together at center backs. 1. NOTE: For knit garments, use a straight stitch or a zigzag stitch, stretching fabric slightly while stitching. 26. Press under 3/8” (1cm) on long edges of LOOP (6). 27. Fold loop in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. EDGESTITCH long edges. 14. REINFORCE inner corners of upper collar and front facings, pivoting at small circles. Clip to small circles. Press under on line of stitching. Front and Back 28. Cut loop into two equal lengths. 15. Turn in seam allowance on 29. With right sides together, pin loops to robe over neck and shoulder edges; press. side seams, having one end extending 5/8” (1.5cm) over lower small circle. Stitch 5/8” (1.5cm) from raw edge. Trim end to 1/4” (6mm). 16. Pin upper collar and facing to under collar and robe, matching notches and seams. Stitch front and collar edges. Trim seam allowances. 2. Stitch center seam, matching inside 2. Pin SLEEVE (9) to armhole edges of FRONT (8) and BACK (10), right leg seams. sides together, matching notches. Stitch in DOUBLE-STITCH seams. Press seam allowances away from sleeves. 3. Stitch again 1/4” (6mm) from first stitching between small circles. Cut seam allowances close to second stitching. 4. Press seam allowances open above notches. 5. Stitch front to back at sides. 30. Turn under 5/8” (1.5cm) on remaining end of loop and pin to upper small circle. Stitch close to turned-under edge. 3. Pin front and back together at side; pin sleeve edges together. Stitch in a DOUBLE-STITCH seam. Press seam allowances toward back. 17. Turn facing to inside. Press. 18. Hand-sew pressed-under edges to neck and shoulders over seams. Hem 31. Turn lower edge of front facing to outside along seam. Stitch across facing 1-1/4” (3.2cm) above raw edge. Trim as shown. Casing and Elastic 4. Finish lower edge of sleeve with a 5/8” (1.5cm) Sleeves and Underarm Seams 19. With right sides together, pin SLEEVE (5) to armhole edge, matching notches, underarm edges and sleeve circle to shoulder seam. Baste. Stitch. Stitch again 1/4” (6mm) in seam allowances. Trim close to stitching. NARROW HEM. 32. Turn facing to inside, turning up a 1-1/4” (3.2cm) hem. Baste close to fold. Press. Baste hem in place close to upper edge, easing in fullness if necessary. TOPSTITCH hem along upper basting, continuing across facing. 6. Turn upper edge of garment to inside along foldline. Press. 7. Turn under 1/4” (6mm) on raw edge and stitch in place, leaving an opening to insert elastic. 5. STAYSTITCH neck edge. 8. Cut a piece of elastic the measurement of waist plus 1” (2.5cm). Insert elastic through casing. Lap ends. Hold with safety pin. Try on and adjust if necessary. Stitch ends of elastic securely. 33. Catchstitch facing to hem. 20. Turn seam allowances toward robe. 6. Stitch center back seam in NECK BAND (11). 9. Stitch opening in casing, stretching elastic while stitching. 21. Pin underarm seam of robe and 7. Fold neck band in half lengthwise, wrong sides togeth- sleeve, matching armhole seams and notches. Stitch. er. Pin raw edges together. 22. To reinforce underarm curve, stitch again over previous stitching between notches. 23. Clip underarm seam allowances if Belt 34. Stitch seam in BELT (7), matching notches. 8. Pin neck band to neck edge, right sides together, matching notches, centers and triangles. Stitch, stretching neck band to fit. Stitch again 1/4” (6mm) away in seam allowances. Trim close to stitching. Press seam allowances toward garment. Hem 10. Turn up 1-1/4” (3.2cm) on lower edges. Baste close to fold. Turn in 1/4” (3.2 cm) on raw edge. Baste hem in place close to upper edge. Press. TOPSTITCH hem in place close to upper basting. necessary to press open. © The McCall Pattern Co., 2003 All Rights Reserved. •Printed in U.S.A. ENGLISH 4322 Page 3 (3 pages) PLANS DE COUPE Indique: pointe de poitrine, ligne de taille, de hanches et/ou avantbras. Ces mesures sont basées sur la circonférence du vêtement fini. (Mesures du corps + Aisance confort + Aisance mode) Ajuster le patron si nécessaire. Les lignes épaisses sont les LIGNES DE COUPE, cependant, des rentrés de 15mm sont compris, sauf si indiqué différemment. Voir EXPLICATIONS DE COUTURE pour largeur spécifiée des rentrés. Choisir le(s) plan(s) de coupe selon modèle/largeur du tissu/taille. Les plans de coupe indiquent la position approximative des pièces et peut légèrement varier selon la taille du patron. Les plans de coupe sont établis pour tissu avec/sans sens. Pour tissu avec sens, pelucheux ou certains imprimés, utiliser un plan de coupe AVEC SENS. Disposer le tissu selon le plan de coupe. Si ce dernier indique... SIMPLE EPAISSEUR—Placer l’endroit sur le dessus. (Pour fausse fourrure, placer le tissu l’endroit dessous.) DOUBLE EPAISSEUR AVEC PLIURE—Placer endroit contre endroit. SANS PLIURE—Plier le tissu en deux sur la TRAME, endroit contre endroit. Couper à la pliure, de lisière à lisière (A). Placer les 2 épaisseurs dans le même sens du tissu, endroit contre endroit (B). DROIT FIL—A placer sur le droit fil du tissu, parallèlement aux lisières ou au pli. Pour plan "avec sans," les flèches seront dirigées dans la même direction. (Pour fausse fourrure, placer la pointe de la flèche dans le sens descendant des poils.) PLIURE—Placer la ligne du patron exactement sur la pliure NE JAMAIS COUPER sur cette ligne. Si la pièce se présente ainsi... • Couper d’abord les autres pièces, réservant du tissu (A). Plier le tissu et couper la pièce sur la pliure, comme illustré (B). Couper d’abord les autres pièces, réservant pour la pièce en question. Déplier le tissu et couper la pièce sur une seule épaisseur. Couper régulièrement les pièces le long de la ligne de coupe indiquée pour la taille choisie, coupant les crans vers l’extérieur. Marquer repères et lignes avant de retirer le patron. (Pour fausse fourrure, marquer sur l’envers du tissu.) NOTE: Les parties encadrées avec des pointillées sur les plans de coupe ( a! b! c! ) représentent les pièces coupées d'après les mesures données. © The McCall Pattern Co., 2003 All Rights Reserved. •Printed in U.S.A.