5 DAYS COURSE AT FFANY, New York City

5 DAYS COURSE AT FFANY,
New York City
INTRODUCTION
In the recent years the shift of the production of the US companies to the Far East factories has
led to a lack of technical knowledge in the US. The new generation of the footwear professionals
(those working in the field of product development and in other roles related to the product such
as product management, design, merchandising, costing, planning) does not have a factory/manufacturing background. Most of the times they come from fashion/industrial design or management studies. The recent crisis has often led to a cut of travelling expenses. And the young people
working in the US footwear companies often have not even visited a footwear factory. In 2007 Ars
Sutoria school has decided to organize technical courses in the US geared around the needs of this
new generation of footwear professionals. Few years later we have two training programs: one in
Boston (with the support of Two Ten) more focused on casual/performance shoes and one in New
York (with the support of FFANY) more focused on elegant/casual shoes.
TARGET ATTENDEES
WHAT TO EXPECT
Profile: primary product development, but also
product manager, designer, merchandiser and
line builder. Experience: at least three years in
the field of footwear.
Greater understanding of the processes of
production of different types of shoe constructions and deeper knowledge of the materials
used in each stage of the process. An opportunity to refocus the experience and progress
in a job that requires the ability to thoroughly
analyze the product and interact with professional engineers from the overseas manufacturing of sample rooms and factories
FOCUS ON
Casual and elegant shoes. The course will
see the presence of a specialist in shoe fitting
tests.
CONTACTS
Wendy Sani
Ars Sutoria
wendy@arssutoria.com
www.ffany.org
Liz Carroll
FFANY
lcarroll@ffany.org
www.arssutoria.com
DETAILED AGENDA OF TRAINING TOPICS
Part I. Fundamentals of shoemaking
Analysis of footwear families and glossary:
Oxford, Derby, Pump, Sandal, Clog, Moccasin, Boot, Women’s footwear terminology, Men’s footwear terminology
Overview of cemented construction process:
Styling, Project, Pattern Making, Construction, Manual operations, Machine processes
Shoe constructions:
Cemented, Blake-McKay, Goodyear, Stitched out, San Crispino, Opanka, Moccasins, Inside-out, Stapled/studded, Slip-lasting, Strobel, String lasting, Direct rubber vulcaniztion,
Built-up, Direct Injection
Part II. Components and Materials
The Last:
Overview, Foot shapes, Angles and inclination, Volumes, Proportions, Styling, Last modeling, Good fitting tips, Last measurements
Cutting:
Manual, Press, Computer-aided
Upper and lining preparation:
Splitting, Skiving, Taping, Backing, Edge finishing, Upper assembly
Upper pre-lasting and lasting:
Toe and box bonding, Insole attaching, Vamp moulding, Toe box reactivation, Lining and preparation, Topline nailing, Side and heel lasting, Sanding and flattening, Heel seat flattening, Sanding and pounding, Heel attaching, Tack removing, Delasting
Design and pattern making for shoes and boots:
Traditional by hand, Computer-aided
Shoe Structure: toe boxes, back counters and lasting insoles
Toe boxes production, Back stiffeners production, Lasting insoles, Metal shanks, Insole reinforcements
Heels:
From idea to production, Correct measuring, Heel types, Materials Attachment, Mould, Leather stacking, Spraying, Wire sprayed, Photographic process, Quality of heel fit
www.ffany.org
www.arssutoria.com
Leathers:
Animal skin to leather, Showcase of different hides, Subdivision of leather, Tickness requirements, Splitting process, Design and leather grains, Primary leathers, Reptiles and exotics, What is CITES
Leather Tannage:
Vegetable, Mineral, Synthetic, Mixed, Aldheyde, Oil
Fabrics / Textiles:
Weaving, Fabrics vs. Synthetics
Nesting of patterns for cutting:
Rules to save on costs, Manual nesting, Software nesting
Part III. Pattern making and last analysis focus
During the final day of the course there will be a deeper focus on a more advanced level of pattern
making and last analysis. Hands-on demonsration will be done by instructor with partecipation of
attendees.
· Draw design directly on last
· Analysis of fit problems that can arise from an incorrect last, incorrect pattern or incorrect lasting (construction) during assembly
· Example of pattern engineering
· Numerical measurements are explained more in depth
· Analysis of common quality and fit problems
· Details of shoe, sandal and eventual boot patterns are examined in order to avoid possible fit problems
Time is saved for Q/A with instructors after each topic is addressed and especially for additional
isssues interesting partecipants.
www.ffany.org
www.arssutoria.com