T A I L O R E D

TAILORED
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HANDBOOK
SUPPLEMENT TO MR MAGAZINE
JOSEPHABBOUD.COM
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“Like every good man, I strive for
perfection, and like every ordinary
man, Iʼve found that perfection is
out of reach̶but not the perfect
suit.” ̶Edward Tivnan
A MODERN
GUIDE TO
MENʼS SUITS
WHO COULD HAVE PREDICTED THE COMEBACK IN MENʼS SUITS?
As evidenced by the growing number of fashion bloggers out there, young
(and not so young) guys are increasingly interested in quality clothing,
craving information about fabrics, construction, and clothing care. And as
greatly improved sales figures prove, men are once again buying and
wearing tailored clothing, especially slimmer suits styled in a modern way
by a whole new generation.
Just in time to cash in on this new attitude, MRʼs Tailored Clothing
Handbook is designed to provide information and insight to buyers, sellers and wearers of menʼs suits. In an industry of continuous change, of
ever-evolving technology, fabric, fit and design, even the experts are constant students of the business. That said, we thank the many menʼs clothing professionals who generously shared their knowledge with our editors
in order to compile this handbook. And of course we thank the wonderful
tailored clothing vendors who came through to support this project.
Additional copies of this handbook are available to retailers; contact
KarenA@MRketplace.com. As always, I look forward to hearing from you.
“Our clothes are too much a part of us for most of us ever to be
entirely indifferent to their condition: It is as though the fabric
were indeed a natural extension of the body, or even of the soul.”
̶Quentin Bell
This page: Zanetti Elements suit, Tallia Orange shirt, Via Spiga belt, Original Penguin tie, Charriol watch.
Photographed by Stephen Ciuccoli. Styling by John Jones and Cynthia Lucero. Model: Adam Von Rothfelder, Q Model Management. Grooming: Adriana DeSilva.
Photo assistant: Angelo DiVincenzo. Styling assistant: Shaun Levine.
Written and produced by MR Magazine ©June 2012
SELLING TIPS
Selling suits is not rocket science,
but product knowledge, patience
and personality make a big difference
in closing the sale. Here, we talk to a
few professionals from stores around
the country.
ANDY MALLOR
Andrew Davis Menswear:
Bloomington, Indiana
WITH NEW CUSTOMERS, THE MOST IMPORTANT
TIP IS TO NOT MOVE TOO FAST TO THE SUIT
RACKS. We strive to make the client comfortable by
offering soda, water, etc. and by starting a dialogue
to find out more about him: where heʼs shopped
before, the reason heʼs looking for a suit and what
he currently has in his closet (that isnʼt from the
ʼ60s...). Let the sale develop from this conversation.
You may find his needs are much different from
what he first says.
Size up the client properly from the beginning and make certain the suits he tries on are
appropriate for his body type. If we canʼt eyeball
the clientʼs size, we take four quick measurements: chest, over arm, waist and seat. If these
arenʼt in proportion to our rack suits, we either
move to separates or start talking about custom.
Itʼs important that we guide him and not vice
0HOTOGRAPHYBY!3EBASTIAN4AHERIsSPACELIGHTDIGITALCOMs
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baroniprive.com
DONʼT MOVE
TOO FAST
IRA ROTHSTEIN H. Herzfeld: New York, NY
versa. Ask open-ended questions, as knowledge
of a clientʼs preferences, style and clothing use is
a powerful tool in maximizing the positive experience for both parties.
Dress the part and romance the process. We
like for a client to say, “I want a suit that fits like
your suit,” or when we ask why he shops at Andrew Davis, he says, “Because I want to look like
your managers, Macey and Kaleb.” We also discuss different ways to wear the suit, and follow
up with a handwritten thank you note or call to
make sure heʼs satisfied. We want him to experience great quality and fit, and know why that differs from the “buy-one-get-four-free...” We like
when he tells us he was complimented while
wearing clothing from Andrew Davis.
NEVER JUDGE THE CUSTOMER BY HOW HEʼS DRESSED. At some stores, if the guy isnʼt wearing Brioni or Kiton when he walks through the door,
or if heʼs a challenging fit, the sales associates donʼt bother with him. I say, always take the challenge. Even if heʼs not wearing great clothes
at the moment, he might have enough money to buy the store. You just donʼt know.
Be perceptive: if the guy seems to have a flair for fashion, if heʼs wearing a cutaway collar or a DB coat, try to focus your presentation accordingly. Always push the envelope: show several options and present a complete story.
Show the most expensive option first. Once they try it on and see how great it looks, it doesnʼt seem so expensive. Often, even if you end
up bringing out less expensive choices, theyʼll go for the more expensive ones.
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SELLING
TIPS
KEITH KINKADE
Kinkadeʼs Fine Clothing: Ridgeland, Mississippi
JOHN MALOUF
Maloufʼs: Lubbock, Texas
IF THE CLIENT IS NOT ACCUSTOMED TO
BUYING A BETTER SUIT, I ENCOURAGE HIM
TO TRY ON BOTH QUALITIES AND SHOW
HIM THE DIFFERENCE IN THE DETAILS. The
higher fabric quality and inner construction. How much more is incorporated into
the foundation of the garment. How the
better garment rests properly on the
shoulders and enhances the customerʼs
physical appearance. How the better suit,
after much wearing and cleaning, retains
the original tailoring and integrity.
INVEST IN THE BEST
A suit with less tailoring can look
good in the beginning, but without
the handwork and extra details in the tailoring of the inner construction, it lacks
the permanence and integrity of the original design and structure. It also loses
some of its integrity with repeated cleaning and wear.
The quality of a better suit remains intact as long as the customer wishes to
keep it. The proper roll of the lapel, the
permanence of the shoulder structure
and the original body shape all enhance
the customerʼs physical characteristics.
This tailoring ensures retention of the
original design. A better tailored suit offers much greater value. Itʼs an investment, not an expense.
CARRY ONLY QUALITY BRANDS.
Itʼs always easier to sell a quality product. We feel the utmost comfort presenting the
brands we carry to our customers. The quality is apparent on the body and in the mirror.
ALWAYS GREET YOUR CUSTOMERS, EVEN IF YOUʼRE BUSY.
When customers come into our store, we always greet them with a smile as if they were
stepping into our own home. We use their name if weʼve met them before, and if their
name slips my mind, we use whatever else we can remember about them in conversation to establish familiarity. Always be eager to help each customer, even if you think
there may be no immediate profit in it. It will always pay off in the long run.
BUILD A RELATIONSHIP WITH EVERY CUSTOMER.
This can be accomplished through simple conversation. Ask them about their likes and
dislikes with regard to clothing. Where will they be wearing this suit? What kind of impression do they want to make? You can learn an awful lot about a customer by asking
such questions and making a true effort to listen to their answers. The goal is to make
them feel important, appreciated and well taken care of.
LEARN TO “SIZE” PEOPLE AT A GLANCE.
Good guesses always impress and help build credibility. However, itʼs often best to guess
“conservatively.” This makes gentlemen feel better about the way they look, and more
comfortable. Sometimes it comes naturally with time, but sometimes it takes practice!
NEVER FORCE. ALWAYS FIT.
Never force a rack suit on a customer
when a custom option will better serve
them. Taking detailed measurements is a
great way to avoid this and also engage
customers in conversation (see above).
Armed with measurements, one can
make more knowledgeable recommendations with regard to selling off the rack
or presenting a custom option. At
Kinkadeʼs, we sell upwards of hundreds of
units of custom suits every year because
weʼve learned to illustrate clearly when
itʼs a better option̶especially when it
comes to odd sizes or customers with disproportionate builds.
EXPRESS GRATITUDE.
̶Keith Kinkade
Include a thank you note in every suit or
jacket pocket that goes out the door. Reference the reason the customer made the
purchase and thank him sincerely for it.
He may not find the note until heʼs at work, church or an event, but when he does, heʼll
remember the thoughtful care you took to help him look his best. After all, thatʼs what
weʼre all in this business to do.
“Sometimes it
comes naturally
with time, but
sometimes it
takes practice!”
“Show the most expensive option first.
Once they try it on and see how great it looks,
it doesnʼt seem so expensive.”
̶Ira Rothstein, H. Herzfeld
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212.245.0770
Ta i l o r e d C l o t h i n g
Jones New York, Tommy Hilfiger, Marc Ecko and Willis & Walker
And announcing MC Coa t - New tailored outerwear and rainwear group
TAILORED
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SELLING
TIPS
BRAD SHERMAN
Hubert White: Minneapolis, Minn.
GREG EVELOFF
The Clotherie: Phoenix, Arizona
IF A CUSTOMER COMES IN LOOKING FOR A SUIT,
FIND OUT WHAT HE NEEDS IT FOR. Is it for business,
evening or casual? If it is for business, find out what
kind of business heʼs in so you can find him the appropriate suit. If itʼs for evening, whatʼs the occasion?
Once heʼs trying on some suits and heʼs finding
a few that he likes, try and find him a suit that is totally different than his norm, one that you think
would look good on him. That way if he likes it and
it does look good in him, it gives him a reason to buy
another suit: the one he came in for and one that
makes him feel special.
GAIN YOUR CLIENTʼS CONFIDENCE by letting him
know when something heʼs considering really
doesnʼt look good on him (because of color, fit
or some other reason).
STAY AWAY FROM THE REGISTER! Focus on
making a complete presentation and let him indicate when heʼs finished shopping. (Often, weʼre so
eager to ring the register that we end the sale just when
the customerʼs getting into a buying mode.)
AVOID ALL QUESTIONS WHERE THE ANSWER MIGHT BE A NO
(such as ʻMay I help you?ʼ or ʻDo you want to see some shirts to go with that
sportcoat?ʼ). Instead, show product that complements his primary purchase with
genuine enthusiasm. As an introduction, a simple compliment will generally
bear much more fruit than ʻMay I help you?ʼ
KNOW YOUR CUSTOMERʼS LIFESTYLE: where he works, his family, friends and interests. Thatʼs how casual customers evolve into lifelong clients.
GAIN THEIR
CONFIDENCE
JASON GREEN
“...show him how
great a suit looks
with a cool open
collar shirt and a
colorful pocket
square.”
̶Greg Eveloff
Take the time to explain all the nuances of the
silhouettes: slimmer, narrower shoulders, higher
armholes, shape of the pant, etc.
A lot of customers come in and say, “I couldnʼt
tell you the last time I wore a suit and tie.” Thatʼs the
perfect opportunity to show him how great a suit
looks with a cool open collar shirt and a colorful
pocket square. And how can he leave the store without picking up at least one new tie to go with the
new suit? We also say, “Think about the last time you
were in a restaurant. Who got the better service and
attention̶the guy in khakis and a polo shirt or the
guy in the suit?”
Harry Rosen: Toronto, Canada
MINDSET: Approach the sale with the idea of selling a complete wardrobe. Start with
solid worsted suits in navy and in gray. The client will appreciate the ease with which
furnishings cross function between these two basic color palettes. Transition next to
a birdseye or sharkskin, then to a micro pinstripe.
INFORMATION COLLECTION: Seek to clearly understand the specific lifestyle of your
client. Knowing his profession, whether he travels regularly, and whether he facilitates
presentations, etc. will assist you in making sensible suit and jacket recommendations.
SUBJECT MATTER EXPERTISE: Product knowledge is crucial to multi-garment selling.
Developing the skills to articulate and relate the selling propositions (i.e. fit, fabric and
function) directly to your client's specific needs is a powerful vehicle to achieving volume clothing sales and developing repeat
clothing clients.
FITTING EXPERTISE: Developing the skill to
ascertain the correct and complementary fit
for the client the first time you place a garment on his back provides you with credibility. Making the client feel good and look
good with your first clothing recommendation opens the door to making additional ̶Jason Green
clothing recommendations. Demonstrating
the ability to balance and mark each clothing item (independent of a fitter/tailor) further strengthens your credibility and ensures fluidity to your sale.
SELL WITH A POINT OF VIEW: Communicating value to a client means creating a desire for sartorial clothing as well as fashion clothing. Your client will appreciate your efforts in opening up new options for him. Several of our key clients enjoy sartorial
clothing by day and fashion clothing by night. Never pigeonhole your client or he will
lose interest in dealing with you over the long term.
“Sell with a
point of view.”
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TAILORED
CLOTHING
HANDBOOK
TERMINOLOGY
Besom or welt pocket: A slot pocket with a bound horizontal seam. It
gives a jacket clean, elongated lines and a modern look because the
pocket itself is hidden.
Break: Refers to the slight crease formed at the bottom of trouser legs
when worn. Traditional wisdom says the pant hem should stop at the
top of the shoe in front and just above the shoe sole in back. More
modern, slimmer-cut trousers should have little or no break, with a
straight hem grazing the top of the shoe.
Button stance: The position of the top button; determines the roll of
the lapel.
Canvas chest piece: The interlining used to create structure and shape;
can be a distinguishing characteristic of a better made suit.
Chest: Made with floating canvas interlining or more modern fusing
methods (some modern styles use lighter-weight fabrics or do not
have chest pieces at all).
Learn the Lingo
Cuffs: The fold at the bottom of the pant. Most common with pleated
pants, but since the trend is toward flatfront, cuffs arenʼt seen as often
anymore.
Dart: The narrow seam detail that helps fit the suit to the body. It
should be flat, neat and straight.
Drop: The difference between coat size and waist size. Average drop
is 6 inches; trimmer-fit drop is 7 inches; trimmest fit drop is 8 inches.
For example, a 40 regular coat with a 6-inch drop will have pants with
a waist size of 34 inches.
Flap pocket: Found on most classically tailored, constructed sportcoats
and suit jackets; a separate piece of material covers the opening.
Floating canvas: A piece of canvas interlining sewn into the lining of a
coat in a way that allows it to ʻfloatʼand adapt to its wearerʼs physique
over time.
French facing: Exposed seams are bound in fabric to protect from
wear; especially important for unlined or partially lined jackets.
Fusing: Combining synthetics and heat in order to join the interlining
to the top layer fabric, or join two middle layers together.
Gorge: The seam where the collar meets the lapel. The seam should be
straight and smooth. The felt undercollar should be neatly felled, but
not so tight that it puckers. It should also be hidden from the side and
back of the collar.
Photo courtesy of The Woolmark Company
Lapel: An extension of the collar, folded back to rest against the front
of the coat. The modern lapel is anywhere from 2 to 3 inches wide.
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ZANETTI
www.zanetti.com
TAILORED
CLOTHING
HANDBOOK
TERMINOLOGY
Lining: Should be tacked securely to the coat so it wonʼt hang below
the coat after dry cleaning. Sweatshields at inside armholes allow for
better breathability and protection, and striped sleeve linings give a
more sartorial look. Pant lining should extend below the knee. Bemberg
(or cuprammonium) lining is commonly used for lining suits due to its
superior flexibility and ability to take color and printing.
no visible stitching. Pick stitching on the interior of a jacket is called
Columbia stitching.
Point-to-point: The measure in inches from shoulder to shoulder (currently averages around 18.75 to 19.25 for a 40 regular). Measurements
decrease for slimmer styles (fashion suits around 17.5 to 18.25).
Photo courtesy of The Woolmark Company
Notch lapel: Features a triangular cutout where the lapel is attached
to the collar. (A high notch on the lapel, an English look, enhances the
impression of length in the jacket. Italian designers generally prefer a
lower notch).
Rise: The measurement between the waistline and the crotch.
It’s no accident
that the
FINEST
MENSWEAR
SUITS
in the world
are made of
MERINO WOOL
In addition to all the
many natural properties
and inherent benefits of
wool, there are other
reasons why Merino wool
is the best fiber for making
men’s suits.
MERINO
is the finest
and softest
wool in the
world.
The Australian Merino wool
industry has a heritage
stretching back more than
200 years. Merino wool is
easy to tailor, has great
ability to absorb dyes, and
is wrinkle resistant.
The most versatile
of all fibers.
It has a long history
and heritage.
It has many natural
inherent properties
and benefits.
It is natural, renewable
and biodegradable.
It has great drape and style.
It retains its shape with
natural wrinkle recovery
and stretch properties.
It offers great value
with its longevity.
Nothing looks, feels, tailors
and wears better than a suit
made from Australian
Merino Wool. Suits made
from Merino wool are a
great investment. They will
last for years and years.
Shawl collar: A smooth, rounded lapel, usually seen on tuxedos.
Slant pocket: A besom or a flap positioned on a slant.
Open bottom: An unfinished pant bottom intentionally left that way
for tailoring.
Patch pocket: The pocket is sewn onto the exterior of the garment.
Usually seen on a relaxed fit or unconstructed sportcoat.
Peak lapel: Designed in an upward and outward V-shape point.
Pick stitching: The stitching at the edge of the lapel creates a hand-tailored look; also known as AMF (named after the original machine that
simulated hand stitching). The opposite is a bluffed edge, which has
Ticket pocket: A sartorial detail, this half-size third (functional) pocket
is located on the right side of the jacket above the flap pocket. It is
found on both dress and sportcoats, lending a distinctly British custom-made look.
Vents: The flaps of cloth below the waist, at the back of the jacket (originally for soldiers who rode horseback; the side vents would lie flat on
the soldierʼs legs, protecting the gun powder in their pockets, without
disturbing the line of the jacket). Options include center, side or nonvent; the most popular at present are side or center-vented jackets.
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AUSTRALIAN MERINO WOOL
The world’s first choice for men’s suits.
The Woolmark Company — The Americas
210 11th Avenue. Suite 1103
New York City, NY 10001
(347) 767 3160
TAILORED
CLOTHING
HANDBOOK
FABRICS & FIBERS
Photo courtesy of HMS International,
cloth by Gladson
or lamb), scours it (cleans it) and cards it (a process in which metal rods
explode the fibers out of clumps of wool). The fibers are then spun into
strands or staples no longer than 2.5 inches. While the yarns spun from
these staples yield a characteristic fuzziness, they are fairly weak because the fibers donʼt all lay in the same direction.
Worsteds: Worsted yarns are smooth and durable, spun from long,
higher-twist yarns. Worsted cloth is usually yarn dyed rather than piece
dyed. Itʼs a clear-surface material that usually requires little or no finishing. Worsteds are used for year-round clothing including suits,
sportcoats and trousers. The worsted system has more steps than the
woolen system. Worsteds are combed (to remove short fibers and
align long fibers) and drafted (to stretch fibers). The process produces
staples longer than 3 inches, which are spun into very fine yarns, making them smooth, well twisted and uniform.
WEIGHT-Y ISSUES
Although the majority of suit sales come from year-round weights, seasonal fabrics are becoming more relevant in todayʼs business: heavier
wools and tweeds in the winter and lightweight cottons, linens and
silk blends in the summer. Fabric weight is determined in ounces per
linear yard.
Tropicals (6.5 to 7.5 ounces/yard) are used for spring/summer suits.
Year-round weights (8 to 10 ounces/yard) include twill weaves and
clear finishes.
Fall weights (over 10 ounces/yard) are used for fall/winter suits because of the dense hand.
Super 100s is a term that measures a wool fiberʼs diameter in microns. The higher the super number, the
higher the grade of fabric (the lighter and more flexible the fabric), making it softer and more resilient, but
harder to tailor. Woolʼs micron count must be the
same in warp and weft yarns to earn the certification
of super 100s to 160s.
TYPES OF WOOL
Woolens: Woolen cloth has a fuzzy surface; it can be bulky and doesnʼt develop a shine with wear. (Tweeds are made from woolen spun
yarns.) Woolen cloth is made from woolen yarn but doesnʼt need to
be 100 percent wool. Itʼs usually dyed and holds a crease well. Woolens
can provide tremendous warmth due to their density and ability to
trap air. These fabrics are mostly used for seasonal sportcoats and topcoats. The woolen system takes grease wool (straight from the sheep
SUPER 100S
18.5 micron = super 100s
18.0 micron = super 110s
17.5 micron = super 120s
15.5 micron = super 160s
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Paul Betenly
TAILORED
CLOTHING
HANDBOOK
FABRICS
& FIBERS
COMING TO TERMS...
Continuous filaments are long, continuous strands of fiber, extruded
from a spinneret. They are usually man-made fibers such as rayon,
nylon, polyester or acetate because natural fibers (wool, cotton) have
shorter lengths or staples. (Except for raw silk which is spun by silk
worms as a continuous filament in lengths of 300 to 1,600 yards.)
TWIST
Twist is a term thatʼs applied to spun yarns. High-twist yarns are
crisper, stronger, less likely to wrinkle and more resilient than
straight yarns. Super high twisting creates crepe yarns.
Ply is when two yarns are twisted together before weaving. Single
ply (known as singles) is the weave of two yarns only.
NATURAL
(FROM ANIMALS)
CAMELHAIR
Source: camel
Pros: excellent warmth for weight
Cons: less durable
Notes: mostly used for
sportcoats and topcoats
CASHMERE
Source: goat
Pros: soft, luxurious hand,
excellent drape
Cons: delicate, very expensive
Notes: commonly used for
sportcoats, topcoats or blended
with another fiber (e.g. silk)
MERINO WOOL
Source: pure-bred merino sheep
Pros: finest and softest wool
Cons: expensive
Notes: often used for higherend suits and sportcoats
SILK
Source: silkworm
Pros: finest and strongest natural
fiber
Cons: poor elasticity, loses shape
Notes: most often used for suits,
sportcoats and blended with
other fibers (e.g. cashmere)
WOOL
Source: sheep (lamb)
Pros: versatile hand (fine or
coarse), resilient, porous
Cons: poor abrasion resistance,
can pill
Notes: the most widely used
fiber in tailored clothing
WHY WOOL?
Wool has many natural properties that synthetic materials (like
poly/viscose) try to emulate.
High-grade wool fibers have a natural elasticity that helps resist wrinkling, especially
those of heavier weights.
A natural ability to resist some surface
stains. Wool fibers absorb water, then the
fibers swell and stains can be easily removed.
Natural stretch and recovery, which helps
retain the shape
Absorbs over 30 percent of dry weight in
moisture vapor without feeling wet, minimizing static cling
A natural insulator that locks in air between
fibers
Flame retardant
Breathable
Anti-odor capabilities
NATURAL (FROM
PLANTS)
MAN MADE
(CELLULOSIC)
MAN MADE
(NON-CELLULOSIC)
COTTON
Source: cotton plant
Pros: cool, absorbent, durable
through many washes
Cons: poor elasticity, wrinkles
easily
Notes: used for summer suits,
sportcoats and pants
LINEN
Source: flax plant
Pros: stronger and more
lustrous than cotton
Cons: wrinkles very easily
Notes: used for summer suits,
sportcoats and pants
ACETATE
Source: wood pulp and cotton
linters
Pros: lustrous, fast drying,
wrinkle and shrink resistant
Cons: non-absorbent, poor
elasticity
Notes: mostly used for linings
RAYON (VISCOSE)
Source: wood pulp
Pros: excellent drape, absorbs
moisture but dries slowly
Cons: poor elasticity, wrinkles
easily
Notes: suits, sportcoats, pants,
linings; most often mixed with
polyester
NYLON
Source: synthetic
Pros: strong, elastic and
resistant to abrasion
Cons: non-absorbent, doesnʼt
breathe
Notes: blended in suits, coats,
pants for strength and stretch
POLYESTER
Source: synthetic
Pros: strong, resists stretching
and wrinkles, holds a crease
Cons: non-absorbent, doesnʼt
breathe
Notes: blended in suits, coats,
pants, raincoats and threads
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THE SURPRISING
INS AND OUTS OF
INTERLININGS
THE HIDDEN
HEART
OF A GREAT
GARMENT
The interlining is the invisible essential in most clothing that makes it move, feel and perform as it should.
Think of it as the delicious hidden center of a Tootsie
Roll Pop® that changes and improves the entire product,
or the unseen computer chip without which your smartphone would not perform properly. At its best, the
interlining does its job flawlessly without the consumer
ever knowing it is there. But, for many apparel items like
tailored clothing, collared shirts or dresses, and even for
everyday necessities like auto upholstery, the interlining
is fundamental to the performance we have come to
expect. As technology continues to envelop our everyday lives, the interlining may also function as your invisible protection from harmful radiation emitted by a variety of devices.
So, what exactly is an interlining? For apparel it’s a
knit or woven fabric that lines the inside of clothing
and accessories. It’s the canvas or fusible lining of a
suit that helps it conform to your movements, or the
lining of a shirt collar that makes it look right and perform properly after many washings. Interlinings help
your tie make the perfect knot or protect the cards in
your wallet from radiation or intrusion from RFID
devices. Today’s lighter fashions sometimes feature
visible interlinings to create apparel that maintains its
shape and integrity while adding style and sizzle.
No matter what the function or product it’s applied
to, the interlining has just one job… to improve performance without the consumer ever having to be
aware of it. That’s why it’s so important that your
interlining supplier understands your business, and
has the depth of knowledge and product selection to
help increase your sales while satisfying your customers’ expectations. There is only one company
with the worldwide supply chain, the up-to-theminute technology, and 150 years of experience in
the apparel business. Kufner is the global leader in
interlinings, and the one company that is certain to
deliver the quality and performance you need and
your customers expect.
INNOVATION
Since the founding of the company 150 years ago, and the
invention of the first horsehair canvas interlining in 1903,
Kufner has pursued a culture of constant innovation, pioneering almost every new application or advance in the market.
Some of the latest include:
X-Shield – a single-layer interlining that
reduces radiation by 99.9999% but
feels great and drapes beautifully.
Ultra light Haute Couture – the lightest interlinings in
the world, made especially for delicate or transparent
women’s wear.
Easy Leather – a new collection that maintains the natural
softness, optical appearance and elasticity of even the lightest
weight leather garments.
Light and Shape – a new kind of canvas interlining that is lightweight and comfortable, with
the resilience of heavier conventional linings. It
helps keep you cool and is perfect for travel.
Heated Textiles – The same technology
used to heat auto seats has been refined
and adapted for apparel. This creates a range of interesting opportunities for creative manufacturers.
Printed Fusibles – Like the examples on the opposite page,
we can create high-visibility fusibles that can replace the
traditional linings of jackets and other garments. Let your
imagination run wild and reap the benefits that a fusible
fabric can bring to enhance the value of your products.
KUFNER MAKES IT
LOOK EASY
With worldwide sourcing a reality and delivery windows
tighter than ever, the importance of having a major partner looking out for the integrity of your products cannot
be overstated. Kufner is represented in more than 100
countries around the world, and has 4 production facilities on two continents. Wherever you manufacture, we
can deliver, collaborate and perform to the standards you
would expect from a leader.
If you make any kind of apparel or accessories worldwide,
Kufner has what it takes to make it better.
FABRICS & FIBERS
WEAVES
CELEBRATING 150 YEARS
OF INNOVATION
To our friends in the apparel business,
We hope you have enjoyed this introduction to interlinings.
They play an essential role in today’s apparel business, especially for many of the newer designs and innovations currently
entering the market. The only limit is your creativity, or ours, in
helping you to realize your concepts.
After years of being a hidden ingredient, interlinings are
becoming increasingly important as a visible feature that creates personality and integrity in otherwise ordinary products.
New lighter construction and innovative printing techniques
have changed our way of thinking and can be the single feature that helps differentiate your designs from the mainstream. In addition, we have pioneered new ideas like textile
heating systems for seasonal apparel and RFID and radiation
protection for wallets and other items.
ULRICH SOGL
Chief Executive Officer (C.E.O.)
Kufner International
FINISHING
Kufner knows interlinings better than anyone in the world and,
in fact, we are located all over the globe with facilities and
agents in more than 100 countries. 2012 is our 150th anniversary and marks the next phase of our growth. We are on the
leading edge of apparel technology with the expertise to help
you achieve your goals and get the job done right.
Please call us today. We promise to bring new ideas for merchandising, operations and garment construction to the table.
Join the many companies who rely on Kufner as their global
solutions provider.
We look forward to hearing from you.
WEAVING IS THE INTERLACING OF YARNS ON
A LOOM. The warp yarn runs vertically on the
loom. A single warp yarn is called an end. The
weft runs horizontally. A single weft, or filling
yarn, is called a pic. Pics are inserted by a shuttle as the harness manipulates ends up or
down to achieve the weave. There are two
basic weaves: plain and twill.
PLAINWEAVE IS THE SIMPLEST FORM OF INTERLACING YARN. Each end goes under and over
each interlacing pic. This weave comprises nearly
80 percent of all woven fabrics. Basketweave is a
more decorative version of a plainweave, with
multiple ends interlacing multiple pics, but itʼs
also more delicate. Split basketweave is a variation in which multiple yarn colors are used within
the grouping of ends or pics.
TWILL WEAVE IS CHARACTERIZED BY DIAGONAL RIDGES THAT ARE FORMED AS EACH PIC
INTERLACES OVER EVERY THIRD END. The
most basic twill weave is called 3-harness, due
to the three harnesses needed on the loom to
control the three consecutive ends. The face,
or front of the fabric, will not match the back
because it shows more warp than weft. 4-harness construction, in its most common 2x2
form (two ends up, two ends down) also has a
twill line running upwards from left to right.
Harness construction allows advanced pattern
detailing, textural variety and increases weight.
5-harness construction can yield smooth, lustrous fabrics like venetians, whose face consists
almost entirely of warp yarns.
SUKESH KUMAR
Sr. Vice President - Americas
Global Director - Business Development
Cell:+1 917 833 0340
Skype: sukesh.official
Email: skumar@kufner.com
Internet: http://www.kufner-textil.com
The hand of the fabric tells how it will feel
when itʼs finished.
Fulling uses heat friction, moisture, chemicals and pressure to shrink and mat a fabric,
giving it a dense, felt-like hand.
Napping uses metal rollers to raise the surface of fibers, giving the fabric a soft, lofty
cover (such as flannels). Mill finish or semimill finish are used to describe the soft,
downy effects of fulling and/or napping.
Decatizing removes wrinkles from a fabric as
it is wound tightly on perforated rollers, with
either hot water (wet) or steam (dry) running through it. All fabrics are decatized, but
fabrics with a hard finish are decatized more
than others.
Sponging removes excess movement in
fabric, ensuring that a suit retains its size
after pressing and steaming.
Shearing of yarns cuts all surface fibers to a
common length, improving consistency of
texture.
TAILORED
CLOTHING
HANDBOOK
SUIT PROPORTIONS
THE “BEFORE” AND “AFTER” SHOTS OF GUYS IN
MAGAZINES LIKE GQ AND ESQUIRE HAVE BECOME UBIQUITOUS: MEN ARE TRADING THEIR
FULL, BOXY SUITS AND DRESS SHIRTS FOR A
TRIMMER, MORE MODERN LOOK. While every
tailor may not agree on exact numbers, there is
broad consensus about a few key things: trousers
and sleeves̶and even the body of the suit
jacket̶are all shorter. The fit is closer to the
body, for a more flattering appearance whether
the wearer is in great shape or not. The modern
suit isnʼt skin-tight; itʼs just not baggy anymore.
From the top, the lapel notch is higher and
the lapels are a little narrower. The shoulders of
the jacket shouldnʼt extend much beyond the
wearerʼs own and shouldnʼt be as padded as they
once were. Armholes are higher, giving more
freedom of movement without the jacket riding
up when arms are raised. Sleeves also have less
material for arms to slosh around in. The body of
the suit will be more form-fitting, pinching in
above the waist in a flattering V-shape that makes
shoulders look broader, and waists more narrow.
From the waist down, notice a shorter rise
(the length from the top of the waist to where the
legs meet). Most trousers are now flatfront.
Trouser legs are trimmer and the hem will generally allow for a slight break or none at all. No cuffs.
All of this is true (in varying degrees) of all
modern suits, not just the ones for skinny or athletically built men. Even big & tall manufacturers
are adjusting their specs to provide a more
streamlined appearance.
In the example at right, we get more specific.
Measurements are based on a 40 regular with a
6-inch drop (34 waist).
Point-to-Point
The average distance
between the shoulders is
shorter by about an inch,
down to 18.5 inches.
Lapel Width
Jacket lapels have
narrowed to between two
and three inches wide.
Button Stance
The button stance is lower
than it used to be, and two
buttons are more common
now than three.
Waist
Suppression
In certain models, this is a
factor. (If not actual waist
suppression, at least an
illusion.)
Sleeve Length
The jacket sleeve should hit
at or slightly above the
wrist. This should reveal
between a quarter inch to a
half inch of the shirt cuff.
Jacket Length
Running anywhere from
29.5 to 30 inches.
Drop
The difference between jacket
size and waist size. Modern drop
runs anywhere from 6 inches for
a regular fit, 7 for slim and 8 for
fashion cuts.
Trouser Width
The trouser legs will be trimmer through
the thighs by about an inch to 27
inches, around and through the knees
by half an inch to about 20 inches
around.
Hem/Break
Trousers should have
either no break or a oneinch break, with the hem
just covering the top of the
shoelaces. The break
should hit mid-shin.
PROPORTIONS
DKNY
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TAILORED
CLOTHING
HANDBOOK
QUALITY CONTROL
How can some retailers give three suits away for the price of one
while others sell one suit for $5,000? What goes into a suit to make
it worth the money? Here, we investigate quality tailoring.
RUMOR HAS IT:
DEBUNKING COMMON
TAILORED CLOTHING MYTHS
MYTH: Thereʼs no good alternative to a full-canvas suit.
Arguably, the best and most luxurious suits are full canvas. Full-canvas chest pieces
are made of high-quality materials (horsehair and camelhair), are hydrophilic (it absorbs and evaporates moisture) and are resilient (it takes the shape of a manʼs
body creating a perfect fit over time). However, full-canvas suits are much more
expensive (about 20 percent higher than half canvas). Half-canvas suits can be
a great option because while they still hold shape in the chest, theyʼre less expensive and production is much faster.
MYTH: Handmade is superior to machine made.
While more time and effort goes into a handmade suit, it doesnʼt always
mean better quality. Only some aspects of that handwork provide benefits
related to comfort, shape retention and appearance. Not only can machines make more suits in less time, but theyʼll be less expensive, more
consistent with less room for error. There are techniques that can be
done on a machine to create a handmade look (i.e. AMF stitching). Handwork is best on areas of stress, like the collar and the armhole, to allow
for more ease of movement and comfort. If price is no issue, however,
handmade is just fine!
MYTH: A one-piece collar is superior to a two-piece collar.
One-piece collars are a technique of traditional tailors. Theyʼre more difficult to
make, but that doesnʼt always mean theyʼre better. Collars should hug the neck and
drape over the neck and shoulders. A two-piece collar does the job just as well
(some argue better) with much less effort.
MYTH: Fully fused suits are inferior quality.
Fusing techniques have gotten remarkably better over the years. In the past, fused
suits tended to bubble after a few rounds of dry cleaning, but the technologies
have since improved and that doesnʼt happen as often anymore. Fused suits were
also known to lack shape and drape, but that has improved, too. Of course,
thereʼs still a range from bad quality fusing to very good quality̶all fused suits
are not created equal.
Canali
MYTH: A fully lined jacket takes more work than a half-lined or unlined jacket.
This is a common misconception made by the average consumer. An unlined jacket actually requires the
most skill, followed by a half-lined jacket. With an unlined or half-lined jacket, the inner workings of the
jacket are exposed, therefore all of the inner seams need to be finished, which takes more time. Half-lined
and unlined jackets are lighter in weight and much more comfortable in warmer climates. However,
lined jackets do give better shape and structure to the garment. Sleeves should be lined, otherwise itʼs
harder to get the jacket on and off with ease, especially fall jackets worn with knits; the fibers can lock
together and make it feel like itʼs stuck.
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Fabian Couture Group International
For more information please call 1.800.367.6251
Black by Vera Wang
TAILORED
CLOTHING
HANDBOOK
QUALITY
CONTROL
CHECKLIST
ELEMENTS OF
A HIGH-QUALITY SUIT
Fabrics with a fine yarn count (look for super 100s and higher)
Bemberg lining: hydrophilic (absorbs and evaporates moisture); fine filaments make it soft̶the thicker the fiber the less flexible, the
thinner the fiber the more flexible
Reinforced collar stitching
Pick or AMF stitching on the outside, Columbia stitching on the inside of the garment. Pick stitching is at the edge of the lapel, creating a
hand-tailored look; also referred to as AMF stitching after the first machine (AMF Reece machines) that emulated this handmade look.
Pick stitching (called Columbia stitching when itʼs on the interior of the garment) creates a crisp look by keeping the edges flat and prevents them from rolling to the wrong side.
Working buttonholes on the sleeves are generally considered a sign of quality since itʼs harder to tailor the cuff to the proper sleeve
length. These days, however, some less expensive suits have machine made working buttonholes. Caveat emptor.
Curved welt pocket: more difficult to make and looks
better on the body. The body is round and the curved
pocket makes it appear straight when itʼs up against
the chest. Follows the curves of a manʼs body.
Hand-stitched sleeve cuffs
Real horn buttons
Cross-stitched buttons: stronger stitch, less chance of
falling off
Pant lining matches sleeve lining
Pleated curtain on the pantʼs waistband̶makes the
waistband more comfortable and creates more freedom
of movement. Regardless, if the pants are flatfront, single or double pleat, customers love this detail, especially
because it helps keep the shirt tucked in and in place.
Pleated curtains cost more in time and fabric.
Button tab on waistband (instead of a metal clip)
Pick stitching on the fly
Bar tack on pants: prevents fly from opening
V-Notch on the back of the waistband: aids in overall
waistband comfort
Belt loops sewn into the back of the waistband instead
of stopping at the top
Specific shoulder constructions (Neapolitan, rolled,
natural) are usually indicative of a well-made suit. If a
company has a signature shoulder it most likely has a
specific look and customer, not capable of high production levels, and thus, is a trait of a more expensive,
high-quality suit.
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TAILORED
CLOTHING
HANDBOOK
FAQ
Frequently Asked Consumer Questions
(And how to answer them...)
ARENʼT SOLID DARK SUITS TOO BORING?
Not if theyʼre well cut and made of beautiful fabrics. Think about it: youʼre spending a lot of money on the suit, so you donʼt want to buy anything too trendy.
Nothing is more elegant on a man than a perfectly fitting, well-cut, classic suit. To
express your personality, feel free to step out of the box with more adventuresome shirts and ties, shoes and socks, belts and pocket squares̶a more pragmatic way to make a style statement. Or choose a made-to-measure suit option,
in order to personalize details like fabric, linings, buttons, pocket type, etc.
IF YOU BUY
A NEW SUIT
OR TWO
TIP
ANNUALLY,
YOUʼLL NEVER
HAVE TO REPLACE AN
ENTIRE WARDROBE.
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HOW MANY SUITS SHOULD I OWN?
If you wear suits to work every day, we recommend at least six: solid black, navy,
a medium shade of gray, gray or navy pinstripes and two subtle patterns (e.g. herringbone, glen plaid, birdseye). Add a sportcoat or two (one classic navy blazer,
at least one unconstructed, updated style) and youʼre in business!
WHAT ARE MY OPTIONS IN TERMS OF SUIT MODELS THESE DAYS?
Much depends upon your body type, but if youʼre easy to fit, your best bet is a two
button single-breasted style with narrow to medium lapels, side or center vents,
the jacket and trousers somewhat slimmer and shorter than whatʼs in your closet.
That said, DBs and peak lapels are staging comebacks, and vests are becoming increasingly important. Check with your sales associate for what looks best on you.
HOW OFTEN SHOULD I REPLACE MY SUITS?
If you buy good quality, suits can last for many years, for unlike womenʼs fashion,
styling in menʼs clothing evolves gradually: something you bought last year will
virtually always be appropriate this year. That said, every five years or so tiny style
changes will add up to noticeable obsolescence. So if you study your closet today,
you may find your suits a bit too baggy, with pants too long, shoulders too broad
and lapels too wide.
HOW WIDE SHOULD LAPELS BE THESE DAYS?
Itʼs all about proportion. The lapel width should relate to the shirt collar and width
of the tie and lately, everything has narrowed a bit. That said, always make sure
your suit lapels meet the tips of your shirt collar; if not, see your tailor.
WHAT ABOUT WARM
WEATHER SUIT OPTIONS?
ITʼS HOT
OUTSIDE
We love linen (wrinkles are okay!) and
lightweight wool in paler shades of
gray. We also love seersucker, a popular option among southern gentlemen. Cotton canvas and silk blends in
medium neutral shades are also good
choices; synthetics are not.
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TAILORED
CLOTHING
HANDBOOK
FAQ
IS THERE A DIRECT RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN PRICE AND QUALITY?
In general, yes. Like most things in life, you get what you pay for. If something
seems too good to be true, it usually is. If a merchant is “giving away” suits, be
skeptical.
A few hallmarks of quality when it comes to luxury suits: hand-stitched
canvas linings (not fused or glued) to retain shape; extra fabric on trouser inseams and interior seat for easier alterations; hand pick-stitched lapels (ironically, slightly uneven stitching is considered more upscale than too perfect);
small knots between the buttons on the jacket for easier fastening; and a boutonniere stay under the lapel (for a subtle touch of class).
ARE ITALIAN-MADE SUITS SUPERIOR TO SUITS MADE ELSEWHERE?
Sometimes. Thereʼs a culture of fine tailoring in Italy that dates back centuries;
itʼs an art form thatʼs passed down from generation to generation (some joke
itʼs in the pasta!) and many of the great Italian clothing makers are still family
businesses. Whatʼs more, certain sections of the country specialize in specific
types of tailoring: Neapolitan tailoring features a closer-to-the-body fit, a
higher armhole and a shoulder that looks somewhat shirred or pleated. Thereʼs
often a lot of hand tailoring that goes into fine Italian suits and, just as importantly, a lot of pride.
However, there are inferior workshops in Italy just as there are exceptional
tailoring facilities in China. While ʻmade in Italyʼ is generally an asset (especially
when it comes to luxury fabrics), never let country of origin be the sole determining factor in buying a suit. Also know that there are many high quality
clothing factories located in North America.
WHAT ABOUT JACKET LENGTH AND SLEEVES?
Sleeves should be somewhat shorter than they used to be, never below the
wrist, always showing a bit (one quarter to one half inch) of shirt sleeve.
The rule on jacket length used to be that the bottom of the jacket should
hit the tip of your thumb. If youʼre a modern kind of guy, go up a bit from there.
Cuffs or no cuffs?
Flatfront trousers are generally left uncuffed.
FLATFRONTS OR PLEATS?
Flatfronts are now the standard, at about 70 percent of the total trouser business at retail. But ironically, European runways are once again featuring some
elongated pleats. That said, wear flatfronts for a modern look.
WHERE SHOULD PANTS BREAK?
No break is needed with todayʼs slimmer flatfront trousers, but for those uncomfortable with this (some think no break makes the pant feel too short),
choose a slight break so the pant rests on the top of the shoe.
Tip: Sock color should generally match the trouser color; shoes can add
contrast. Italian men often wear brown shoes with their navy and gray suits; we
totally approve!
HOW
OFTEN
DO
SUITS
CLEAN
NEED
SUIT
TO BE
DRY
CLEANED?
As infrequently as possible. Harsh chemicals in cleaning fluids can damage fine fabrics and wreak havoc on fused interlinings (the melted “glue” causes the suit to ripple after
too many cleanings.)
That said, out of the 32,000 dry cleaners in America, a
few hundred are considered exceptional. Some are even
“green” meaning theyʼve reduced water, energy and chemical usage in an attempt to encourage environmentally responsible cleaning methods. Some of these are specially
trained and certified by Americaʼs Best Cleaners (ABC) as
Couture Care Specialists. Check with ABC (or ask us) for the
top cleaners in your area.
A few tips to prolong the life of your suit: Spot clean
when necessary (and as soon as possible after the stain);
brush your suit at night (ideally with a brush made of horse
hair or boarʼs bristle); lightly steam suits if necessary (experts
say that contrary to popular opinion, wool loves water and
humidity); buy good quality hangers; create a bit of space
between suits hanging in your closet; rotate your wardrobe
so you leave a few days between wearings.
WHAT DO I NEED TO KNOW ABOUT FORMALWEAR?
Every man should own at least one formal suit or tuxedo. Renting isnʼt an ideal option, since you end up spending a lot of
money on something you donʼt really love (and that some
other guy has previously worn!).
When buying, consider these factors: 1) Black is classic and
universally accepted; navy is a viable fashion option; 2) Peak
lapels are the standard but shawl collars and notch lapels are
also good choices; 3) Lapels should have a satin or silk faille
facing in the same color as the tux fabric. Stay away from contrast color lapels: they are much too gimmicky.
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TAILORED
CLOTHING
HANDBOOK
MADE-TO-MEASURE
The Human Touch: Made-to-measure
raises tailored clothing sales to an art form.
Photo courtesy of HMS International,
cloth by Gladson
TODAYʼS MADE-TO-MEASURE WORLD HAS, LIKE EVERYTHING ELSE, BEEN AFFECTED BY THE INTERNET AND
TECHNOLOGICAL ADVANCES. However, as Joe Blair of Individualized Apparel Group says, “Itʼs always about people, relationships and actually putting your hands on the customer.
Anything that happens beyond that can only help.”
The made-to-measure, or MTM, customer chooses from a
limited̶though far-ranging̶selection of fabric swatches
and suiting styles. He may be invited to try on a few standardized garments to gain an idea of size range and fit. Standardized patterns allowing some variation of silhouettes are then
tweaked to fit, based on the customerʼs measurements, correcting for his specific physique. MTM is the more common of
the “individually tailored” businesses in the United States.
Custom, or bespoke, suiting is a much more elaborate
process involving the creation of patterns specifically for a
certain customer, and involves multiple garment fittings. It
also involves more hand-construction throughout the garment. Keep in mind that the terms ʻmade-to-measureʼ and
ʻcustomʼ are reversed in Canada and some other countries.
Although most modern shoppers are used to buynow/wear-now purchases, the custom MTM experience offers
a man the opportunity to indulge his specific tastes in fabric
and detailing, while remedying shortcomings̶or addressing
advantages̶that nature or the gym may have thrown his way.
Ben Ayres of Coppley points out that their MTM program
“allows for at least 16 variations in fit̶even left to right variations. The most important thing to consider in clothing is fit.
What does it look like on the customer? After that, itʼs all about
making sure itʼs well-constructed.”
“People are buying a piece of me,” says custom tailor
and former talent agent Waraire Boswell. “I work with a lot of
actors and athletes and if they are super tall [Boswell, himself, stands 6 foot 7 inches] or have an odd body, I have to really understand that personʼs specific needs. Iʼm very
particular about my procedures and am against sharing
measurements with other tailors. Another tailor doesnʼt
know whatʼs ʻactualʼ and what needs an allowance...if somebody takes my measurements to somebody else, theyʼre
going to mess it up.”
Still, modern advances in communications and technology, as well as increasing skill in Asia and Latin America, have
also lowered the cost of entry into what has been, until relatively recently, the exclusive province of the wealthy.
“As we look at technology, there are multiple components. Some the customers see, some they donʼt!” says Colin
Hunter of Alton Lane (with locations in New York City, Washington, D.C. and launching soon in Boston). Hunterʼs Manhattan salon includes a 3D body scanner for part of their
measuring routine; however, “Our website is probably the
most obvious way we use technology. The more we can
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TAILORED
CLOTHING
HANDBOOK
MADE-TOMEASURE
learn about a customer before the appointment, the better. We can
have sample garments pulled and ready to make it a more personalized experience. On the back-end, weʼve added a whole video quality
control component to our production process. We find thatʼs important when working with difficult body types. We can look at a garment
and make corrections at the factory level.”
“Thirty years ago there were master tailors everywhere,” says Arnie
Roberti at Adrian Jules. “Now they just arenʼt around. Not a week goes
by that I donʼt get a call from somebody looking for one. Since the 1990s,
weʼve had to rely on technology in our factory to keep the shop moving.
We can still use a CAD system to implement a customized pattern for
each client. (That took a few years to develop.) Whatʼs great is that we
can store it digitally so itʼs easily modified for weight gain or loss. Itʼs very
precise. Itʼs not cheap! But it ensures the continuity of our business.”
“In general, todayʼs customer is looking for more value, even at the
higher end,” says Joseph Wendt of Christian Boscherini. “People are
working harder and longer, so the time frame is very important. Guys
with plenty of money can get whatever they want, but they still want
value in their $4,000 suit. With all of that, even if a business can spend
a few hundred grand on one of those high-tech measuring booths, it
still canʼt replace a guy who can measure well,” Wendt argues. “It will
give you posture and proportions that donʼt make any sense̶and itʼs
not as mobile! Seventy-five percent of my business is done ʻoutʼ at a
customerʼs office or home.”
ZEN & THE ART OF MIMMO
Made-to-measure legend Domenico
“Mimmo” Spano offers 10 precious tips to
the novice salesperson.
BE VERY HONEST. If you project that attitude, your customer will
pick up on it.
When you first approach him, never ask “May I help you?”
Thatʼs an automatic turn-off. Speak to him casually, compliment
his tie, talk about other things...put him at ease. Then start the
conversation by asking him where he buys his clothes.
Look at him. How does he dress? Flamboyantly? Plainly? How
can you accommodate his face and his shape? Ask what he does
for a living. What kind of fabrics will project the image he needs?
Take his measurements yourself; good tailors are hard to find.
Have him try on the fitting models from your custom program to
understand what kind of corrections you will need to make.
Donʼt overdo it. This is MTM,
not custom. Remember that
there is only so much you can
do. Make the jacket a little
shorter; watch the point to
point. Check the customerʼs
posture and make the front a
little longer...but donʼt touch
the shoulder. It will come out
wrong and alter the original
look of the suit.
MIMMOʼS TIPS
Guys with plenty
of money can get
whatever they want,
but they still want value
in their $4,000 suit.
̶Joseph Wendt, Christian Boscherini
The MTM sales environment seems to take on even more significance than regular apparel sales. A relative newcomer to the business,
Brian Mazza of New York Cityʼs Windsor Custom started his shop with
Ralph Lauren alumni Ryan Grayson in December 2011. Mazza comes
from the hospitality business and runs The Ainsworth, a sort of sports
bar/restaurant. “We see that a lot of guys hate shopping,” says Mazza,
“so often theyʼll come here in a group, then go upstairs [Windsor Custom is one level below the restaurant] for dinner. Sometimes we even
just have dinner brought down here for them.” The well-appointed
shop features a pool table and furniture that Grayson designed. Then
thereʼs the duoʼs iPhone covers: “Rachel Zoe tweeted them,” says
Grayson proudly. Always measure the hips! If
a guyʼs thighs are bigger, you
can always correct down from a larger waist size̶you can never
correct up from a smaller one.
Once heʼs picked out the suit, casually make suggestions
about shirts and ties that might go with the suit. If he is buying a
plaid jacket, perhaps a pair of trousers that would allow him to
wear the jacket as a sportcoat. Youʼre adding value, demonstrating your taste level and showing that you know what youʼre
doing.
Always follow up! Process the order promptly. Call him the
next day to thank him for stopping by. Call him in a week or so to
assure him that his suit will be here soon̶donʼt wait for him to
call you asking where his suit is̶when a customer calls you,
thatʼs bad news.
Call him promptly when the suit arrives and be there yourself̶heʼs your client, not the tailorʼs.
Again, follow up! Call him to ensure that heʼs happy with the
suit. Never assume “no news is good news.” If he has to call you
because thereʼs a problem, thatʼs bad. If he doesnʼt call you and
thereʼs a problem, thatʼs worse, because he wonʼt ever come back
and he may talk badly about you to others. In a few weeks, send
him a small gift̶extra buttons for the suit in case he should lose
one. Something to show you truly care.
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Reprints of this special supplement
are available in-print and on the web
Please contact Michelle Brown for your free copies
212-710-7413
michelleb@MRketplace.com
DETAILED
COVERAGE
Clothing and furnishings hold
steady on fashionʼs center stage.
Like a luxury automobile,
a fine timepiece or a great audio
system, todayʼs tailored clothing
is all about the details. Surgeonʼs
cuffs, beautifully finished interiors
with lots of hidden pockets, pickstiching, zippers and lapel details
all update the category.
Photographed by Stephen Ciuccoli
Tallia Orange jacket, Hickey Freeman vest,
Gitman Brothers shirt, Carrot & Gibbs tie.
STYLING BY JOHN JONES AND CYNTHIA LUCERO. MODEL: ADAM VON ROTHFELDER, Q MODEL MANAGEMENT. GROOMING: ADRIANA DESILVA. PHOTO ASSISTANT: ANGELO DIVINCENZO. STYLING ASSISTANT: SHAUN LEVINE.
TAILORED
CLOTHING
HANDBOOK
This page, clockwise
from top: Adolfo
sportcoat, Calvin Klein
necktie, Gitman Bros.
shirt. Michael Kors
jacket. James
Campbell sportcoat,
Tommy Hilfiger bow
tie, Seaward & Stern
pocket square. James
Campbell suit coat.
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TAILORED
CLOTHING
HANDBOOK
BREAKING
NEWS
This page,
clockwise from top
left: Zanetti Elements suit, Tallia
Orange shirt, Via
Spiga belt, Original
Penguin tie. Zanetti
sportcoat, Gitman
Bros. shirt, Original
Penguin bow tie,
Countess Mara
pocket square.
Wurkin Stiffs cuff
link, Calvin Klein
shirt, Tommy Hilfiger tie. Assorted
Ben Sherman ties.
Palm Beach jacket,
Edward Armah
pocket circle.
Trim-fits are the new norm.
Seasonal fabrics and bow ties are must
haves. Jewelry, from tie bars and clips to
cufflinks, add flash. Retro patterns rule the
day. Stay tuned for further details.
Ike Behar suit, Gitman
Gold shirt, Countess
Mara tie and pocket
square, Charriol watch.
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TAILORED
CLOTHING
HANDBOOK
This page, clockwise from top:
Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin Klein
and Calvin Klein shirts. Stinson
R. Ely trousers. Hickey
Freeman herringbone sportcoat
with leather trim details,
Gitman Bros. shirt and tie.
SPECIAL
REPORT
Necktie, scarf or pocket square,
itʼs a new era of self expression.
Plaids and seasonal fabrics continue to
be strong in shirts, as are clean, formal
looks. The outlier? Look for pattern and
color in bottoms and bold detailing in
sportcoats for casual occasions.
Arnold Brant suit, Geoffrey
Beene shirt, Fraas scarf,
Robert Graham pocket square.
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Santorelli
Made in Italy
®