400 820 8428 Pole Dancing No Tips Please, We`re Athletes

Transcription

Pole Dancing
No Tips Please, We’re Athletes
Hogwarts Comes to Hebei
Wizards Need not Apply
Chin P’ing Mei
The Chinese Epic That Took
Three Decades to Translate
The That’s 2014 World Cup Guide
Why go to Brazil, When you can
Watch it Here in Beijing?
Everything you Need to Know
About This Summer’s Biggest
Event
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400 820 8428
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2
JUNE 2014
EDITOR’s
note
Thats_Beijing
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JUNE
“Punxsutawney Phil, Seer of Seers, Sage of Sages, Prognosticator of Prognosticators and
Weather Prophet Extraordinary.” This is the name the good people of Pennsylvania have
bestowed upon their pet groundhog, who at 7:25am on February 2 each year, is forced from
hibernation, in front of a cheering mob, to reckon with its own shadow. In the resulting
furor, winter is either declared officially over – or persists for a further six weeks.
We don’t have any such traditions here in Beijing, but if we did, they would almost
certainly involve mosquitoes. The advent of summer – I’ve always felt – is heralded by their
return. Though unlike the groundhog, when it comes to mosquitoes, there’s no ambiguity.
Mosquitoes mean summer. All you can hope for, is that you don’t get bitten.
There are other signs of summer too. Not least the World Cup [see Ian Walker’s column
on page 80 for a behind-the-scenes look at the tournament] which, although only falling
once every four years, is easily the biggest and most reliable indicator of the changing seasons. That’s especially true here in Beijing, where time differences require people to stay
up late into the night to catch the action – something that would be impossible during the
depths of winter.
To help make sure you get the most out of this summer’s tournament, we’ve produced
a 20-page guide, included free in this month’s magazine, listing all the times, dates and best
places to enjoy the action, right here in Beijing.
As for the magazine itself, on page 59, Will Philipps hits up Jazz Graden [sic], the city’s
latest addition to the bustling Xindong Lu Sunset Strip. On page 34, Professor Jon Chatwin
guides us through the Chinese literary classic, Chin P’ing Mei, and meets the man who spent
30 years translating it into English. Marianna Cerini hangs out with China’s national pole
dancing team (page 22). And in our cover story (page 44), intrepid reporter Karoline Kan
meets the part-time smugglers who make big money trading rice wine and cooking oil.
So until the next time, stay low, move fast and avoid those mosquitoes.
Stephen George
Will Philipps travels to Hebei to visit
China's very own answer to Hogwarts
(page 10).
Editor-in-Chief
Our Tianjin summer supplement comes out this month so if
you’re planning a weekend getaway here’s the chance to travel
in style. We’ve got a night’s stay for two at The St. Regis, Tianjin
(including breakfast and two tickets to their riverside beach
party) to give away (p63). Also up for grabs are two tickets to
see Cracker (p28); two tickets for CSS (p30); two tickets for post
rockers Wang Wen (p31); two tickets for musician Hadi Eldebek’s
performance and workshop (p38); an RMB500 meal voucher for
Flamme (p70); and an RMB500 meal voucher for Allday’s (p71).
Also check out our World Cup Guide supplement, which has
prizes from The Hilton Beijing Capital Airport, Flamme and
Fubar.
The That's Beijing team representing at
last month's Strawberry Music Festival.
JUNE 2014
3
6 CITY
三色莲花印度餐厅
Three Colours Lotus Indian Restaurant
雅秀店：5F Yashow Market 朝阳区工体北路 58 号雅秀服装市场五层
秀水二号店：Xiu Shui 2, 14 Dong Da Qiao Road, Chaoyang
朝阳区东大桥路 14 号 Tel: 6586 5096
9 WHAT WOULD
CONFUCIUS DO?
Modern dilemmas, age-old
wisdom
10 HOGWARTS in HEBEI
The arts university casting a
spell on its students
14 BLACK MIRROR
We meet the entrepreneurs of
black Beijing
31 Gulou Xidajie
www.raj.com.cn 鼓楼边儿的印度餐厅
64011675
Free local beer with every
meal before 9pm
16 LIFE & STYLE
16 ST YLE SECRETS
Michel Alarcon from creative space
S.T.A.R.S. tells all
20 SCENE & HEARD
What’s happening in the world of
fashion, Beijing
22 POLE DANCING
Members of China’s national team
show us their moves
28 ARTS
31 WANG WEN
The post rock pioneers on going
strong for over a decade
32 TIM ROBBINS
The Oscar-winning actor bringing
Shakespeare to China
40 PrC Dj's abroad
Coming out from the underground and making it big overseas
52 EAT & DRINK
55 WOODSTOCK
Should it be a summer of love for
this new bar and grill?
57 LOFT EATALICIOUS
Pizza and pasta for the settlers
of Shunyi
58 MELO LOUNGE
4
Cars and cocktails at this fish-outof-water Lido nightclub
JUNE 2014
THE WRAP
quote of the issue
”what kind of special hell is this TV love? Billions of
people across the country, sitting on their sofas laughing
at you being rejected because you are bald and poor?“
Taoist sage, Mr Xu. page 7
COLUMNists
44
SMUGGLING
IN CHINA
On the ground with China’s
rogue traders
14 ali ali
29 adam dehmohseni
34 CHIN P’ING MEI
How the Song dynasty
epic’s translation became
a 30-year labor of love
59 JAZZ GRADEN [SIC]
The bar that’s breaking all the
rules – linguistic included.
30 alex taggart
JUNE 2014
5
THE BUZZ
TRADING PLACES
For She‘s a Jolly Good Fellow
One of the oddest selfies we’ve seen this year
emerged from a Henan wedding, as the bride and
groom decided to trade dress codes. As well as
marrying in her husband’s hometown, the bride
(dressed here in a suit) wanted to hold a separate
ceremony for her family in Hua County. To
“comfort” them, she asked her husband to wear a
wedding dress and he dutifully obliged.
RANDOM NUMBER
53
...minutes and 34 seconds is the amount of time that a
Jiangxi man spent covered in bees. The world record feat
saw Ruan Liangming play host to approximately 100,000.
Ruan already holds the record for wearing the heaviest
bee suit (at over 62kg). “As long as you keep still and
don't agitate the bees then all will be well,” he said. “They
are gentle creatures really – and extremely clever.”
RAY BANS
Where the Sun Don‘t Shine
6
JUNE 2014
Women on a beach in Qingdao, Shandong, have been spotted wearing so-called
‘face bikinis’ to protect themselves from UV rays. The hottest summer trend
(literally) is an increasingly common sight in China, where people go to the beach
for reasons other than getting a tan. The rubber balaclavas can also protect from
insect bites and jellyfish, though the potent sun appears to be wearers’ greatest
fear. “I'm afraid of getting dark,” one bikini-faced beachgoer told the New York
Times. “A woman should always have fair skin. Otherwise people will think you’re
a peasant.”
bjeditor@urbanatomy.com
Quote of the Month
“All women wear them so
I want to build a museum
devoted entirely to them
with all sorts of colors
and sizes on display”
PHOTOS BY NOEMI cassanelli
56-year-old health worker Chen Qingzu explains what he hopes to do
with his 5000-strong collection of bras. A regular visitor to campuses,
where he advocates breast health, the Hainan native claims that most
are ill-fitting bras donated by students.
Ask a Laobeijing
“What do you think of TV dating programs?”
MH370 Toy Spotted
An insensitive toy of the
missing Malaysia Airlines
plane was spotted in a store
in Guangzhou nestled among
stuffed bears and rabbits. Too
soon? Any time is too soon,
we reckon.
RANDOM NUMBER
2,900
We caught up with Mr Xu as he sat in the shadow of the Drum Tower,
chanting Taoist texts and twirling prayer beads through his hands.
When we tried to ask his age, Xu gave us this vague but interesting
answer: “You want my age as a human or a saint? A few hundred years
old as a human, twenty something as a saint.” Despite his alleged age,
Xu was more than happy to answer our question:
“As someone who devotes himself to the sacred pursuit of Taoism,
I should not bother to talk about love. But, dating shows designed to
attract people’s attention are particularly annoying. Shouldn’t love
happen naturally? When you see a beautiful woman, not only beautiful,
but also in possession of some uniquely attractive quality, you know
you are in love.
“But what kind of special hell is this TV love? Billions of people
across the country, sitting on their sofas laughing at you being
rejected because you are bald and poor? And the girls even point
that out! Ridiculous! What kind of world are we living in today? Love
is purchased. I see men totally losing their dignity and women their
virtue.
“I loved a woman once too, but those days have gone. But I would
never, ever insult myself by showing my affection to a woman in public.
What’s wrong with shameless humans today?
“But anyway, all this has nothing to do with me. I have quit the
games played in the human world. I will practice alone. This is the price
of being immortal. Maybe you can’t see, but I am much older than I look.
I don’t want to be disturbed by the wicked pursuits of humans.” KK
...is the speed in kilometers per hour [k/ph] that Chinese researchers think could be
reached by a new type of high-speed train. Scientists at Southwest Jiaotong University
in Chengdu have successfully tested the “super-maglev” train, which could theoretically
travel three times the speed of a commercial passenger jet.
Existing maglev trains can reach speeds exceeding 400k/ph, but more than 83
percent of overall energy is lost to air resistance. According to the professor leading the
project, Deng Zigang, the super-maglev would operate inside a vacuum tube to remove
drag. Deng’s research team has now built China’s first “megathermal superconducting
maglev loop” model to test the concept. Though the model has only hit a leisurely
50k/ph so far, Deng is confident that this speed could be dramatically increased by
raising temperatures and using a more powerful superconducting maglev ring.
JUNE 2014
7
CITY « tales
TALES OF THE CITY
Woman Chases
Dog Chasing Man
Chasing Horse
an attendee at Beijing's 17th
International High-Tech Expo tries
out a 3D motion capture device.
Beijing’s Fifth Ring Road took
a turn for the farcical as a fullysaddled horse was spotted
traveling at speed with a dog
and a 30-something-year-old
man in hot pursuit. Although
witnesses were unsure whether
the man was the horse’s owner,
he was seen sprinting about 400
meters behind the beast when
a dog jumped out of a nearby
car and began chasing him. The
car’s driver (and presumed dog
owner) then stepped out of
her vehicle to try and catch her
beloved pet. All of the chase’s
participants convened with
the police at an exit some 20
minutes later.
They Tried to Relocate me but I
Said No, No, No (kia)
All 17 Nokia employees being considered for senior
positions in Beijing have refused to take a role
in the capital, with 15 of them citing pollution as
their deciding factor. The telecommunications firm
is struggling to recruit research and development
experts from abroad according to news agency
Xinhua, with vice president for mobile phone R&D,
Dirk Didascalou, also saying that he will leave after
his current spell to protect his family’s health.
Given Nokia’s fall from grace in recent years, we’re
a little surprised that they’re not all just grateful
for a job.
8
150
...is the number of armed patrol vehicles
deployed in Beijing’s streets in the wake of
terrorist attacks at train stations across the
country. Each will be manned by at least nine
police officers and can be found at major
junctions across the capital. The vehicles have
been sent out with the aim of “countering
street terrorism and fighting severe violence,”
according to Xinhua.
JUNE 2014
wwcd » CITY
What Would confucius do?
Modern Dilemmas, Age-Old Wisdom
I’m a 27-year-old western male who has been living and working in China for three years. I
have a good job and life here is challenging but enjoyable. However, recently I’ve been hit with
wave after wave of depression and I can’t stop thinking: what the hell am I doing out here? My
family, who I miss like crazy, thinks I should stay for my career. There's not a great deal of work
back home, and few of my friends enjoy the type of lifestyle I have here in Beijing. Yet, still, I
can't shift the feeling that I ought to return home. Do I give up everything here and return to
my native country, or do I carry on in the hope of reaching some level of satisfaction?
My Dear Friend,
What a letter! Reading it unlocked a
box of long-forgotten memories. Feelings of
ambition, bitterness, homesickness, guilt,
confusion and helplessness all came flooding
back. You are the me of thirty years ago. I
was not lucky enough to work abroad, but
for a young Chinese back then, being alone in
another city, thousands of miles away from
home, with no mobile phone, no email, no
Skype to reach family and friends, was as
hard as what you are experiencing now.
But since you are consulting me as a
scholar, let me tell you this: fundamentally,
Chinese culture never encourages people to
move. I don’t know if you’ve ever heard of the
saying, “The leaves fall to meet their roots,”
but you must have witnessed the billions of
Chinese migrating across the country each
year for Spring Festival. Home is such an
important place that it merits several days
of standing in a line for a ticket in a smelly,
stuffy, slow train, that itself will take several
days to reach its destination.
So why then did I leave my family who
I loved and depended on so much? I did it
to improve my quality of life. I think you
are here for the same reason. Many people
remember Confucius’s quote from The
Analects: “When your parents are both alive,
don’t travel far.” But those same people forget
the more important part that follows: “If
you do travel far, there must be a proper and
worthy reason.” Based on what you have told
me, I believe the reason you are traveling far
is both proper and worthy.
Thirty years ago, I felt like a caged bird
released into the sky that was finally free to
chase its dreams. However, later because of
historical and personal reasons, I was not
able to fly higher or further, or to enjoy the
experience of studying or working overseas.
This is something that I have regretted for
the rest of my life. But you, young man, you
are blessed with opportunities! Chinese
culture encourages you to both stay with
your family and seek your fortune. This is not
a contradiction. There is a middle way. I hope
you find yours soon.
> chang Yaohua is a professor of Traditional chinese
culture at Beijing International Studies University. His
book, Seventeen lectures on chinese culture and
History , was published in 2008.
Send your ethical dilemma for professor chang to
JUNE 2014
9
CITY « feature
HOGWARTS
COMES TO HEBEI
Welcome to the Hebei Academy of Fine Arts,
Wizards Need Not Apply
by W i l l P hi l ipps
The Hebei academy of Fine arts
10
JUNE 2014
I
PHOTO BY KIMBERLY HETHERINGTON
’m being led into a faculty building at a small university
in Xinle, a rural and dusty town 30km from Shijiazhuang,
Hebei. Inside, I’m shown what can only be described as a
vision. It’s a scale model of my most fantastical childhood
daydreams made real. A Hogwarts-meets-Disneyland – complete
with fairytale castles, giant white pyramids, replica cathedrals,
temples and even a few towering steel skyscrapers. The bold
plan – currently nothing more than a few faculty buildings and
a construction site – is set to be completed in 2022. Welcome to
the Hebei Academy of Fine Arts.
Artist and visionary businessman Zhen Zhongyi founded
the academy in 1996. “It’s the only privately operated fine arts
university in all of China,” he tells us after our visit. “No such
institution has developed so rapidly – it’s got a unique place in
the history of art education.”
The school has around 8,000 students, majoring in subjects
such as traditional Chinese fine art, architecture and design.
Under the leadership of the charismatic Zhen, the academy –
by his own admission – became successful (in a 2009 radio
interview, Zhen claimed that student employment rate was 100
percent). “We want to make it an empire of arts,” says Zhen.
The collection of architectural eccentricities that Zhen plans
for his empire has turned a few heads in the past month – mainly
because the first of many future faculty buildings bears more
than a passing resemblance to fiction’s most famous school of
witchcraft and wizardry.
“Architecture is not important for how it looks necessarily,
but rather what it says,” Beijing-based architect James Shen
comments. “I find it ironic that an arts university, an institution
that is meant to foster innovation and creativity, chooses to
promote itself by constructing a castle in such exaggerated
historic style that it ends up looking like a Hollywood set; itself
an exaggerated copy of something else.”
It seems like little effort has been made to make it fit
with the environment it inhabits. European castles were built
strategically on high land and rocky outcrops; this one is built
off a dusty single lane road, 30 meters from a gas station. Still,
I have a burning desire to go outside and see it. I can’t say that
about many universities I’ve visited. Maybe that’s the point.
“We are simply paying attention to inspiring students and
making them more creative,” Zhen explains. “People are worried
because they have a fixed concept of what a school should look
like.”
Looking over the scale model I start to wonder if these
copycats are really the best way to inspire budding young artists.
Is a clone of the Vatican’s St. Peter’s Basilica really going to
The ‘real’ Hogwarts – an
interpretation of the fictional
castle at The Wizarding World
of Harry Potter theme park in
Orlando, Florida
JUNE 2014
11
CITY « arrivals
PHOTO BY KIMBERLY HETHRINGTON
“It’s a university – as
interpreted through
modern China’s
increased propensity
for bigger-betterweirder”
inspire a generation of Chinese artists trying to
express themselves creatively in a period of huge
social change and collective soul-searching?
Our guide interjects: “Shall we go visit the castle
now?”
We’re shown around the castle by Zhen’s
son, who helps to oversee the building project.
We drive the kilometer or so to the new south
campus – for the most part still a building site
– in his black Audi A6. Our noses are pressed
up against the windows as we gaze at the clock
tower and its soaring 134m spire. Close up,
there is something not quite right about the
design. The amalgamation of western styles
has left it looking a bit unbalanced, while the
rows of gold spikes jutting out of the spire
give the impression of a brick and mortar
S&M enthusiast. I ask about the Harry Potter
influence but Zhen’s son dismisses it, saying that
the style is based on his father’s interpretation
12
JUNE 2014
PHOTO BY KIMBERLY HETHRINGTON
The front of the castle, as
viewed from the roadside
The scale model of how the university’s
campus will look when complete in 2022
Zhen Zhongyi
portrait of China » CITY
of gothic western architecture.
He is more a fan of stained glass windows, apparently. With so
much of the architecture based on churches I ask about the religious
connotation (there is something vaguely cultish about Zhen himself,
whose pictures line the walls of the faculty’s interior). “It’s nothing to
do with religion – they are just Zhen’s favorite.”
Ambitious building projects like these are easily dismissed as
vulgar displays of wealth. But as an institute of education and a
public space, Zhen’s project is different. It’s a university, a civicminded endeavour, as interpreted through modern China’s increased
propensity for bigger-better-weirder.
It seems the university will certainly attract visitors: “It was
actually the media that made me realize the buildings could be a big
draw for tourists,” Zhen admits. “We’ve since been making adjustments
to the original plans to make the interiors in keeping with outside.”
But to maintain its integrity as a place of higher education it will
need to attract students – and for the right reasons. Isn’t it better
they choose an institution on academic grounds – not because their
grounds look like Hogwarts? Furthermore, can Zhen ensure that
standards of education aren’t compromised by his predilection for
architectural experiments?
“The castle cost upward of RMB800 million, the funding coming
from my private property and businesses in China and abroad,” he
tells us (to put this in perspective, one of these castles costs about the
same as four regular buildings). “We take both the education and the
environment seriously. Our aim is to offer a first-class service on both
– they are not in conflict with each other.”
We walk back to the old campus. Part of me expects to see a
few students clad in robes, maybe levitating an iPhone in the air for
that perfect selfie. One eager student approaches us offering to help
translate. Her name is Lily and she’s a fashion design student. As we
walk around I ask her if she’s a Harry Potter fan. “Of course. We love
the castle – but it must be so expensive!” She’s got some interesting
tattoos and describes her style as sporty-meets-Japanese-chic. It’s
not exactly a trademark Hogwarts look, although aside from the
enormous castle, very little here is. Back at the original campus it’s
just regular students coming in and out of crusty dormitory buildings,
distinguishable by the racks of clothes hanging in the windows.
Before we leave, we approach a small replica Qing dynasty hall
built in honor of historical figure Guan Yu. “Students are free to come
here and draw inspiration from the paintings inside,” the staff tells
us. The door is bolted shut but luckily our guide has a key and we
enter. Lily has never been in here before. Pointing at Guan Yu and his
companions, our guide explains that all the paintings were done by
students, as were the bronze statues (50 points for Gryffindor!).
On the way out I ask Lily about her studies. “I love it here, but I
only really chose it because I didn’t do too well on my gaokao,” she
tells me. “This was the only place that would take me.” I ask her about
her teachers. She grimaces. “My course’s main professor has so many
students that I rarely see her. I’m mostly taught by a more junior
member of staff – I think she’s a recent graduate.”
Architecturally, many western cities are torn between holding
onto past traditions and forging ahead to the future. Standing
outside the Hebei Academy of Fine Arts, it can seem like China
doesn’t care which direction it’s going in – as long as someone points
their smartphone at it. Money can’t buy the reputation or history
of a Tsinghua (which is packed with tourists during holidays), so
sometimes you need to be more cunning. Maybe the Hebei Fine Art
alumni will be more ready for the outside world having been inspired
by Zhen’s example that in China, no matter how wild your vision, if
you have the money you can have it built. JUNE 2014
13
CITY « black mirror
Black mirror
Because Not All Laowai Are White
By a l i a l i
“When I finally located an afro hair salon in the city,
my nerves warned me that I might end up shoebeating the barber if I wasn’t satisfied with my cut”
With each trip back to London, the questions fired at me get ever
more repetitive. “What’s there to eat out there?” “What’s the music
saying?” and “Where are you getting your hair cut?” are the three that
my black friends ask the most. They appear eager for me to dismiss
Beijing as a deadbeat frontier town where dreams and appetites go to
die.
But it was probably exactly this sort of question that first inspired
the city’s black entrepreneurs. While initially lagging behind their
counterparts in Shanghai and Guangzhou, they have now created a
thriving network of businesses that have developed into what I would
call “Black Beijing.”
Don’t let this moniker fool you. This is not some designated
district à la Chocolate City. Black businesses in Beijing have had little
choice but to base themselves all across town, although that sadly
means that you may have to travel to the ends of the earth (or the
Batong Line at least) to get your hands on what us black people hold
dear. But as new black businesses boom, the journey to these new
establishments has become a monthly pilgrimage that I look forward
to.
Getting myself groomed is one of life’s necessities for which I will
happily embark on some of the most drawn-out trips imaginable. For
black folk across the globe, the bond with our barbers or stylists is set
in stone. It is often a deeply personal relationship that goes back as
far as our first ever haircut. They serve not only as architects of style,
but as confidants, family friends and vital sources of information.
I once had a friend from home call me beaming that she had
been offered the job of a lifetime. The only catch was that it was in
Singapore. Relocating to a foreign land was not the source of her
hesitatation: “I’m cool with Singapore, that is not even the issue. How
am I supposed to get my hair done by someone I don’t know?”
Upon moving to China, I had no idea where to start. Conducting
impromptu vox pops whenever I was around other black people
became a standard part of my repertoire. Having to relocate to a
foreign land without a familiar face to tend to my follicles was a
nightmare. And when I finally located an afro hair salon in the city,
my nerves warned me that I might end up shoe-beating the barber if I
14
JUNE 2014
wasn’t satisfied with my cut.
But these salons now serve as the nucleus of Beijing’s black
community. They are places to engage in intelligent debates and leave
with a pair of shoes, all while getting your hair ‘did’. Their clientele
highlight just how diverse Beijing’s black community really is.
Lawyers, students and hustlers sit side-by-side as they wax lyrical on
politics, sex and current affairs.
From Africans to Americans, Caribbean islanders to Europeans,
you can easily hear French, English and Chinese uttered in the same
sentence. Perhaps even more wondrous is witnessing a Chinese
stylist sewing a weave into a blissfully happy black customer who is
more concerned about how to entertain herself through the four-hour
ordeal than about the race of her stylist.
So with our souls satisfied by a trip to the barbers, it is time to
satisfy our appetites with the other pillar of the black community –
food. Thankfully, the entrepreneurs of Black Beijing have made the
capital home to some of the most delicious black cuisine. Coming to
Beijing and leaving Mama’s food behind leaves me teary-eyed some
nights, so there is something genuinely therapeutic about taking
friends to an African restaurant and teaching them how to grasp
piping hot fufu with their hands. As well as providing our home
comforts, these restaurants have become a binding factor in the crosscultural exchanges ever-present in Beijing.
Despite filling many of the gaps in the market, Black Beijing
still has a long way to go. It’s progress has also been dented by the
lingering threat of escalating rent. The landlord of one salon became
so envious of the owner’s success that he showed up unannounced
and demanded that they either leave or pay an extortionate fee off the
books.
But one thing I have to say about my people is that they are
resilient in the face of adversity. The owners packed up all their
equipment and began operating from homes across the city until they
established an even bigger salon, leaving karma to give that fangdong
the middle finger.
> Next month our man gets political and discusses how china has become africa’s new
best friend.
chinese urban dictionary » CITY
LÜ CHA BIAO
/lü chá biao/ 绿茶婊
By mi a l i
n. a woman who, despite a seemingly
innocent appearance, is actually a cold,
calculating bitch.
How to use it:
A: Did you see photos of that old guy’s orgy pool party? All
the girls looked so pure and innocent.
B: Yeah you would never know they were like that if you
saw them in the street. They are such luchabiao!
A: The new intern in my office looks like a 12-year-old
girl but I just found out that she has been seducing my
boyfriend! B: She is a luchabiao. Don’t be fooled – she will do anything
to steal him away from you.
They say you shouldn’t judge a book by its cover. Luchabiao are one
of the many reasons why they’re right. Literally meaning “the green
tea bitch,” a luchabiao is a woman who trades her body for social
status but has only one tool to do so – an innocent appearance that
tricks those around her into thinking that butter wouldn’t melt in
her perfectly-dimpled mouth. She then disarms and screws over her
enemies. The word “biao” means bitch, while “lucha” (green tea) represents
everything that is pure, clean and innocent. Together they emphasize
the contrast between the angelic appearance and evil actions of such
women. You mistake simple looks for a simple mind and let your
guard down. The next thing you know – bam! She has stolen your
husband. Since her apparent innocence is her most powerful weapon of
deceit, the green tea bitch exerts great effort towards maintaining the
appearance of a 12-year-old schoolgirl. Wearing her hair long and
straight, she seems not to even know how to curl or dye it. A luchabiao
uses makeup but all the boys say she doesn’t; she sports the simplest
of clothes but they still somehow compliment her figure. Soft-spoken
and shy, the green tea bitch would rather bat her eyelashes than
speak her mind. As well as luring men into her malevolent trap, a luchabiao also
carries herself in a way that keeps other girls from realizing the threat
she poses. Being complimentary towards the girls around her (and
self-deprecating in the process) proves an effective way to hide her
intent. By never striking up conversation with guys at dinner parties
or being seen flirting in public, she
hides the fact that her phone is
filled with flirtatious text messages.
She is sleeping with anyone who
can boost her wallet or social status.
But the ultimate telltale sign of
a green tea bitch? When you are out
drinking she is always the first to
say “I’m drunk” but stays until the
end so no-one sees who she goes
home with. Don't let it be you.
> Mia li is a news reporter in Beijing by day;
Sign up for
1 year
(12 issues)
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of That’s
Beijing for
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at night, she tries to turn that news into
standup comedy.
JUNE 2014
15
Style Secrets
Michel Alarcon, Buyer and Creative Director at S.T.A.R.S.
Tell us a bit about your background.
I started working in the fashion
industry as a salesperson at Colette
in Paris back in 2000, then went on
to freelance for several magazines
and designer brands. Before Beijing, I
lived in Tokyo for six years, working as
communications manager for Givenchy.
What’s the concept behind S.T.A.R.S?
S.T.A.R.S. is a space where fashion,
style, art and culture come together.
We stock menswear and womenswear
from international designers on the
first floor, while the downstairs gallery
space is dedicated to exhibitions and
private events. The second floor is
where we hold pop-up collaborations
with designers and artists.
What makes a good fashion buyer?
The ability to unearth future talents
and/or trends.
What do you look for when scouting
for new brands to stock?
I look for identity, different yet
wearable designs and good pricequality balance.
photo by noemi cassanelli
st yle radar
LIFE & STYLE
Besides S.T.A.R.S, what are your
favorite shops here in the ’Jing?
I like to go to Kadakada, run by a
friend of mine. It’s not far from us and
it has a range of cool young designers.
What are your thoughts on the
current state of Chinese fashion and
are there any local designers you’ve
got your eyes on?
The local fashion scene is constantly
expanding and despite the fact
that cookie-cutter designs are still
very common, I think there’s also
an ever-growing cluster of Chinese
creatives really making a difference.
I particularly like Lucien Wang, who
does womenswear with fabrics from
Italy and France. His aesthetic is ultrafeminine, sophisticated, chic and sexy
– he’s definitely one to watch.
Latest fashion purchase?
A Gareth Pugh sleeveless leather
jacket.
How has the city influenced your
style?
I used to wear a lot of black in the
past but once I moved to Beijing I
noticed how a lot of young people here
embrace color and that has definitely
inspired me to wear brighter hues and
prints.
Any particular trend you’ll be
rocking this summer?
Painted vintage denim. It was so
popular when I was a teenager and
now that it has made a comeback I feel
it’s time for me to rock it again!
Fashion is…
Fun.
> s.t.a.r.s., 23 Doujiao hutong, Xicheng 西城区豆
角胡同23号 (8408 3833)
Covet
Case Closed
Happy Feet
There’s no shortage of variety in the iPad
case department. Enter any Apple Store
and you’ll be surrounded by a plethora
of different covers to wrap your tablet in,
from a swanky Michael Kors design to a
futuristic Logitech. But if you’re looking
for something more quirky then why not
try this case from Tang’ Roulou? It looks
summer-ready and those stripes remind
us of a beach towel we owned a few years
back. But although the bright blue conjures
up images of far-off tropical lands with clear skies, it’s
actually from a Beijing-based brand, meaning you’ll be supporting the
local creative community by purchasing it. Don’t have an iPad yet?
Stop being such a noob. Or, alternatively, check out some of the label’s
funky accessories. They are all pretty rad. RMB460.
Hot much? Put those trousers and
jackets away and welcome back
sundresses, shorts and one of fashion’s
most divisive types of footwear: flip
flops. No longer the preserve of sandy
beaches, these comfortable creations
are either loved or hated. Hipster
elitists mock them as sad products of
stylistic surrender, while normcore
peeps (i.e. those who don’t really follow fashion) can’t resist their
ease and practicality. While we agree that the shoe-cum-slipper isn’t
appropriate for every situation – office wear and flip flops is NOT
OK, not even for your commute – we can’t deny that these funky
numbers by Xiamen-based brand U Pick are actually pretty cool. Best
yet, they’re ultra affordable at RMB45 so you can buy a pair for every
outfit in your wardrobe.
> tangroulou.taobao.com
16
JUNE 2014
> u-picklife.taobao.com
Edited by Marianna Cerini / bjeditor@urbanatomy.com
Under the lens
Fan Bingbing
Forbes has named actress Fan Bingbing
at the top of its 2014 China Celebrity 100
List pushing mega-celebs Andy Lau and Jay
Chou to second and third places. Boasting
an income of RMB122 million (most
of which comes from endorsements of
cosmetics and other beauty products), this
is the second year that Fan has topped the
list which, besides income, is also based on
media exposure and influence. She’s ranked
in the top 10 every year since 2006, which
is no mean feat for someone who’s only 32.
The lady is doing pretty well for herself, eh?
Made in China
Audrey Fave
While fashion trends come and go quicker than you can say “Anna
Wintour decided pineapple prints are in this season,” vintage
dressing is a firm anchor in the style world. Given enough time,
the aesthetics of the past will always fall back into favor.
Old clothes recount stories of bygone eras but they are also
bastions of individuality and personal panache – a far cry
from the uniformity one finds on the high street.
If you’re drawn to the charm of retro, but aren’t keen on
purchasing second-hand clothes – we don’t blame you. The
smell of mothballs can get to even the most hardcore of old
fashioned aficionados so look no further than ‘new vintage’
label From Audrey With Love. Launched a few months ago
in Shanghai by landscape architect Marie Vikström, the
brand reproduces classic, well-constructed silhouettes
inspired by the 1950s and 60s, alongside beautiful
jackets (all RMB1,195) and charming headbands and
turbans (RMB115).
Vikström aims to create a “vintage style with
a hint of Scandinavian minimalism and a scoop of
Audrey Hepburn charm.” Her impeccably-crafted
designs reflect this ethos, making for a range of
timeless garments including Mad Men-esque linear
frocks, cylindrical boleros and dresses that expose the arms
and cinch at the waist before
flaring out. Audrey would
have definitely dug it. So
should you.
> 82 yangmeizhu Xiejie, Xicheng
西城区杨梅竹斜街82号 (qoqolook.
taobao.com)
overheard
”Do not
take
drugs
and go
whoring”
A welcoming ‘warm notice’ left for
guests at a branch of the Star Hotel
chain. The note, which dates from 2013,
recently went viral online after it was
posted on Imgur. Indeed, it’s generally
good advice not to take drugs and go
whoring in China. We just find it a little
odd that Star Hotel’s management felt
the need to remind guests of that fact.
JUNE 2014
17
LIFE & STYLE « fashion
Uniqlo straw hat,
RMB149.
> www.uniqlo.cn
The little things
Summer Style Essentials to Turn up the Heat
BY M a r i a n n a C e r i n i
As a rule, the gospel truth of “less is more” is a failproof approach to achieving stylish and credible dressing. Yet
sometimes, it’s the details that really make an outfit work. The bits and pieces that finish a look can completely
change the accent of something you’ve had for years, delivering a quick fashion fix to an otherwise uninspired closet.
The key is creating contrasts – team some color-pop pouches with a pair of white block heels, or tone down a
neon tee with a leather belt in neutral tan. Summer is the perfect time to experiment – sunny days call for funky
jewelry, hip sunglasses and hues of the bright, eye-popping variety.
With that in mind, we’ve rounded up the hottest accessories to be seen with this season. Tip your cap (or fedora)
to the months ahead with these must-haves.
H&M earrings, RMB79.90.
Koala espadrille
shoes, RMB460.
Ted Baker print scarf,
RMB849.
> www.hm.com
> www.topshop.com
Pull & Bear leather
sandals, RMB199.
> www.tedbaker.com
> www.pullandbear.com
COS backpack, RMB990.
> www.cosstores.com
House of Harlow
gold tone Aztec
leather wrap
bracelet, RMB290.
> en.zooq.com
Topshop knot headband, RMB90.
> www.topshop.com
Celia B Aqua clutch, RMB380.
CraigxKari sunglasses, RMB999.
> en.zooq.com
Zara metallic necklace,
RMB229.
> www.feilook.com
> www.zara.cn
Zara bucket bag
with zip, RMB499.
> www.zara.cn
Pull&Bear colored sandals, RMB199.
> www.pullandbear.com
Asos heeled sandals,
RMB336.53.
> www.asos.com
18
JUNE 2014
Oasis pineapple clasp belt, RMB144.23.
> www.asos.com
Stradivarius sunglasses, RMB129.
> www.stradivarius.com
fashion » LIFE & STYLE
Topman canvas espadrilles, RMB250.
> www.topman.com
Mr. Jones watch,
RMB1,650.
DieNastie sunglasses, RMB399.
> www.feilook.com
> dienastie.com
GAP open-weave
fedora, RMB149.
> www.gap.cn
Uniqlo belt, RMB149.
> www.uniqlo.cn
Super Primo Reflek sunglasses, RMB2,880.
> shop.projectaegis.com
Zara Man rucksack, RMB299.
> www.zara.cn
COS sandals, RMB1,750.
> www.cosstores.com
New Era 9Fifty NY cap,
RMB336.53.
> www.asos.com
Urbanears headphones, RMB329.
> www.nuandao.com
Zara Man plain striped scarf, RMB259.
> www.zara.cn
H&M fabric bag, RMB79.90.
> www.hm.com
JUNE 2014
19
LIFE & STYLE « arrivals
Scene
& Heard
By M a r i a n n a C e r i n i
Hidden inside the Glory Gardens compound on Xingfucun Zhonglu, Studio
D204 is a joint venture from a trio of talented ladies: milliner Elisabeth
Koch, jewelry-maker Clare Hynes and founder of jewelry line Ishaveya,
Jahanavi Bhaskar Laag. The three have brought their collections together
and turned an apartment into a creative and retail venue open to the
public. Koch’s bespoke headpieces fill the main room, a bright array of
fancy feathers and flamboyance. Hynes’
designs – bright and delicate handcrafted jewelry made from vermeil,
gems, Swarovski crystals, beads and
ribbons – light up a smaller corner.
Meanwhile, Ishaveya’s precious and
semi-precious stones make for a raveworthy display of sparkling necklaces,
earrings, rings and embroidered
clutches from
India.
Chichi
& Roro
Vintage
If the party frocks, printed
dresses and leather bags
found at retro spot Chichi
& Roro represent the styles
of yesteryear, we’re ready
to travel back in time. The
small shop packs a lot of
charm, with porcelain dolls,
tattered suitcases and other bits of antique kitsch decorating
the softly-lit space. Largely made up of clothes and accessories
imported from the US, Europe and Japan, the merchandise also
includes some designer pieces. We found a Gucci clutch and
Ralph Lauren tote in pretty good condition and both affordably
priced (around RMB650). The place is almost bursting at the
seams, so you’ll need a great deal of rummager’s patience
to prise through the stuffed rails. But the shop’s relaxed
atmosphere – aided by the presence of an adorable French
bulldog named Honey – will help make the shopping experience
a smidge easier.
> glory gardens,
club house D-204,
Xingfucun Zhonglu,
chaoyang 朝阳区幸
福村中路锦绣园公
寓D座204单元
(182 0258 0454)
> 60 Wudaoying hutong, Dongcheng 东城区五道营胡同甲60号 (158 1097 5451)
LOOP & LOOP SELECT
There’s an overriding aversion to flashiness characterizing
LOOP and LOOP SELECT, two indie boutiques that have moved
from Nali Patio to new, larger digs in Lido. Divided only by an All
Days convenience store, the owners have made the two shops
hip-till-it-hurts in their decor with neat, industrial interiors
and sharp graphics. Think fixie bikes and exposed brick walls.
Both stores carry designer pieces aplenty, from coveted Marni
and Stella McCartney dresses and separates for women to some
brilliant menswear spanning ACNE, Stüssy and Theory. There is
also space for more lifestyle items including umbrellas, glasses
and ties. With a firm handle on contemporary, wearable designs,
just walking into either space is a real treat.
> shops a03 and 9106, 2 fangyuan Xilu, chaoyang 朝阳区芳园西路2号金街底商
a03 和 9106 (5135 7809/7695)
Rechenberg
Kathrin von Rechenberg is one of those
designers who manages to create impeccable
garments every time she delivers a new
collection. For spring/summer 2014, the
inspiration is the fragile, crinkled qualities
of Japanese washi paper. Irregular pleating,
wrapping and draping techniques are recurrent
features of the Rechenberg aesthetic and
they prove pivotal here too, from a gorgeous
navy blue jacket to a shift dress in an earthy,
chocolatey hue. Each piece is textured to feel
elegant yet breezy, desirable yet accessible.
Rechenberg has also played with a handful of
perfectly-matched contrasts here – loose-fit
blouses with tailored shorts, fiery oranges and
reds with palettes of cream and aquarelles.
The result? A sartorial line that’s youthful and
exquisitely made. If you’re looking for summer
chic, this is it. RMB2,000-8,800.
> Xinyuanxili Dongjie (behind building 12) chaoyang 朝阳区
新源西里东街12号楼 (6463 1788)
20
JUNE 2014
Studio D204
By Marianna Cerini / Photo by Noemi Cassanelli / Additional contributor Tin Wu
portrait of China » LIFE & STYLE
Meng yuan, 22
Are you recording this? I am from Hebei province but I have been living in Beijing for the last three years. I
sell stuff in Sanlitun – you know, cigarettes and drinks. The job keeps me pretty busy these days.
What’s your biggest ambition?
To open my own shop. I’d like to sell little things, trinkets and the like. Who knows, maybe one day.
I have to go back to work now.
JUNE 2014
21
LIFE & STYLE « lead story
No tips please,
we’re athletes
Hanging out With China’s National Pole
Dancing Team
As the lights go down in the crowded hall of the Tianjin Haihe Theater, over 200
audience members – an assorted mix of children, the middle-aged and giggling young
couples – fall into an expectant hush. Moments later, a lithesome woman clad in sky-high
leather platforms, spandex shorts and a low-cut glittering bra appears on stage. Walking
slowly but determinedly, she approaches a vertical pole.
If this were a strip club, she’d be pouting and batting her lashes. Instead, her face
is tense and focused, her eyes transfixed by the metal post in front of her. Suddenly and
without warning, she grabs hold of the pole and swings herself upward, before striking a
pose two feet from the ground.
She is one of a dozen or so performers at China’s National Pole Dancing Show,
an annual event held in the northern port of Tianjin that aims to promote one of the
country’s newest – and perhaps most controversial – fitness practices.
Over the course of the next two hours, athletic and decidedly skimpily-dressed men
and women take turns shimmying up the pole, contorting their bodies into gravitydefying stances.
Deadly serious and undeniably dedicated, they all show a sense of showmanship
that has little to do with the raunchy gentlemen’s club image more commonly associated
with pole dancing. The audience, for its part, sits in respectful awe.
First introduced to the country in the mid-2000s, the activity is nudging its way into
China’s mainstream exercise and sport market, with increasing numbers of gyms and
dance schools offering classes.
In 2011, an official China Pole Dance Sports and Training Center (CPDSTC) was
established in Tianjin. With it came the creation of a professional, full-time Chinese
national team consisting of some 16 men and women aged 20 to 30, who live and train
on site. Pioneers in the discipline, they consider themselves to be professional athletes
and are determined to help transform the public perception of their sport.
At the Haihe Theater, it is these dedicated few who perform the show’s closing
routine, a dramatic piece blending ballet, acrobatics and gymnastics. It’s a powerful,
remarkable act.
“Pole dancing is an art form yet to be fully discovered,” says Yuan Biao, the team’s
general coach, a few days after the event. “As a dance that includes movements both in
the air and on the ground, it combines beauty and power like few other disciplines. If I
were to define it in any way, that would be it: beauty and power.”
Yuan holds a pivotal role in efforts to ramp up the country’s competitive edge. A
former lawyer, he gave up his career and later sold his house and car in order to help
promote the sport full-time. Unable to secure Government funding, Yuan made contact
with the World Pole Dancing Federation in 2010 to enquire about the possibility of
holding a nationwide competition in the Chinese Mainland.
“Everybody around me thought I was completely crazy,” he says. “But I liked the
challenge.”
Shortly after, the federation allowed him to organize the discipline’s first China
Championships, in which contenders from across the country are selected for
international-level tournaments. The contest, now in its fourth edition, attracts 100 to
200 participants each year.
Meanwhile, Yuan became the first and only Chinese judge at the annual World Pole
Dancing Championships, a contest that this year saw contenders from 14 countries,
including Argentina, New Zealand, Russia, Brazil and Cyprus, travel to the UK to compete
in doubles, singles, men’s and women’s categories.
22
JUNE 2014
By M a r i a n n a C e r i n i a n d To n g f e i Z h a n g
lead story » LIFE & STYLE
“We get fresh blood coming in every
year. If any old member is lagging
behind, he or she will get kicked out
without a second thought“
JUNE 2014
23
LIFE & STYLE « lead story
a member of china’s national pole dancing team performs outside in tianjin
“When we perform, it is as if
we’re flying in the sky”
Chinese teams led by Yuan have participated in the event since
2012. Although victory remains elusive, the team has made notable
showings and recently won awards for choreography and single
performances. Yuan is confident that, by next year, they will make it
into the world’s top three.
Back home, recognition has been slowly picking up. “It has been a
tough run, but mindsets have changed enormously since we started,”
he says.
Nonetheless, many Chinese disapprove of the sport’s sexual
movements and continue to view pole dancing as unruly and
licentious. In a society that traditionally dictates that women be loyal,
faithful and modestly-dressed, public opinion still considers the
discipline to be lowly and pornographic.
Still, the number of pole dancing courses held across the country
suggests attitudes towards the sport are shifting, albeit slowly.
“It remains a sport for a select few,” says Meng Yifan, the national
team captain. “But a lot of people change their views on it after
watching us perform. What we do is a kind of stage drama – none of
that sleazy stuff you see in bars or clubs. It’s serious work for us.”
Statuesque and slender, 30-year-old Tianjin native Meng has the
appearance of a prima ballerina. Her abdomen is perfectly chiseled,
her thighs toned and slim. As she ascends the pole during practice at
CPDSTC, she appears fierce and effortless in her swift movements.
A childhood spent studying ballet, jazz and folk dance accounts
for much of Meng’s athleticism. Her attraction to pole dancing, on
the other hand, comes from the web. In 2005, she saw a video of a
performance online which she says “completely opened my eyes.”
24
JUNE 2014
“I had this idea of pole dancing as an overtly sexual thing.
Watching that video, however, I found it to be something else entirely.
A dance form in its own right.”
As the CPDSTC did not yet exist at the time, Meng decided to teach
herself the moves of the discipline. She bought a pole and installed it
in her house and, once she honed her skills, filmed a video that she
then submitted to the World Pole Dance Championship. The clip got
her into the international tournament, making her the first Chinese
citizen to be invited to the competition.
“That was 2010. I ended up not taking part because of visa issues.
Before I applied for the 2011 contest, Yuan had founded China’s
national team and we started attending as a group.”
Training for competitions, both local and international, takes
serious commitment. Of the 16 team members – 11 female and
five male dancers – only seven are allowed to enter international
tournaments. The selection process is ruthless. Entrants are judged
on a number of areas, from strength and aesthetic to performance
and flexibility; the height of the pole and the duration of the song are
also taken into account. Points are deducted mercilessly – a minor slip
or a bent leg could cost a contender qualification to the next round.
Clothing and dance styles are also scrutinized. In order to escape
the sleazy undertones that often characterize non-competitive shows,
official pole dancing contests have introduced strict rules about
performers’ outfits. While legs and feet must be bare to grasp the
pole, the standard uniform is shorts, T-shirt and special hand powder
or gel to improve grip, although heels might be worn for specific acts.
At CPDSTC, most dancers teach classes during the day, while
professional practice runs from 8pm to 11.30pm. Before major
tournaments, these sessions can go on until two in the morning.
Stamina and consistent performance levels are key. “We get fresh
blood coming in every year,” says Yuan. “So if any old member is
lagging behind, he or she will get kicked out without a second
thought.”
lead story » LIFE & STYLE
A typical training session begins with stretches, followed by
lifts, lunges, splits and extensive core-strengthening exercises. It’s a
tough routine, culminating in pole moves that seem to defy gravity –
athletes grip the metal stick with a single foot or several fingers, or
launch themselves into high-intensity choreographed routines. As
bodies tense in concentration, it’s common to spot purple bruises on
the dancers’ thighs and bare feet. This is neither a forgiving sport nor
one that is easy on the physique.
“I once fell from a three-meter-high pole and hit both my knees
hard on the ground,” says Song Yao, who came second in 2011’s China
Pole Dance Championship and is ranked number 17 in the world. “It
took me almost a year to recover fully.”
One of the team’s latest additions Yan Xu, a strikingly tall, sculpted
boy of 20, broke his collarbone in a similar accident. Both seem
undeterred by such mishaps.
“Pole dancing is something that proves my worth and existence,”
Yan says. “When we perform, it is as if we’re flying in the sky.”
The Beijing-born, athlete who first started pole dancing in 2008
after watching shows on the Internet, won last year’s China Pole
Dance Championships and thus qualified to join the national team.
Earlier this year, he came fifth in the world tournament.
The achievement has propelled Yan’s confidence as a team
member but has also proven decisive in his personal life. For the first
time since starting to pole dance he has reconnected with his family,
from whom he had previously been estranged because of the sport.
His case is not isolated. While the sport is gaining new credentials,
its champions are keenly aware of the challenges they face in a society
where traditional values prevail. For most pole dancers, dealing
with and changing the preconceived notions of their loved ones has
become part of the job.
Song didn’t tell her family about her training until she was ranked
“I had this idea of pole dancing
as an overtly sexual thing.
Watching that video, however, I
found it to be something else
entirely. A dance form in its own
right”
in the world championship. “They all thought I was trying to become
a singer,” she recalls. “When my dad first saw me dancing on the pole
he was like, ‘What are you doing up there? Acrobatics?’ The idea of
pole dancing as a career hadn’t crossed his mind at all.”
Once she began training professionally, Meng told only her
parents. “Friends and relatives would have found it indecent and
hard to accept. Now that they have seen me performing, however, the
misunderstandings have gone.”
In embracing pole dancing these athletes represent an urban
youth whose values are at odds with those of their parents. But older
generations are also more prone to misunderstand the allure of the
pole which, for these dancers at least, bestows strength, self-control
and rewards that are seldom matched in their other life pursuits.
“‘Sexiness’ is only one part of the whole thing,” says Yan. “The real
appeal is all about how impressive and empowering ruling the pole
can be.”
JUNE 2014
25
HAIR OF THE FALCON
Sanlitun Salon is a Cut Above
Getting a haircut used to be something to look forward to. But after a
number of unfortunate experiences in Beijing leaving us looking like
over-coiffed late 1990s Korean popstars (due, in part, to errors of
communication), going for a trim soon became cause for anxiety.
So it is with a reassuring sense of style security that we pay a visit
to Sanlitun’s Laurent Falcon. With a wealth of experience (both in the
fashion world and for ordinary folks such as ourselves), there are few
safer pairs of hands in the capital to entrust your head’s finest asset
to. And it’s not just us that say so – the Frenchman has been featured
in Cosmopolitan and Bazaar for his hairdressing expertise.
His new Sanlitun salon is a chic affair of smooth metallic fittings
and tasteful shades of turquoise. You may recognize the location as
the former home of Eric Paris Salon, but it has undergone a complete
design overhaul. It looks all the better for it. But even if you were a
happy regular at the spot before Falcon set up shop, then fear not –
the best stylists have continued working there after Eric’s departure.
Situated off Bar Street, this is the perfect place to get your hair
done before a night out. So that’s exactly what we do. Choosing from
an armory of scissors, combs and equipment in his style suitcase,
Falcon makes light work of our unruly mop, cutting with finesse and
exercising an incredible eye for detail. A quick wash and style and
we’re ready to hit the town with one of the best haircuts we’ve ever
had the pleasure of receiving.
But then the eagle-eyed Frenchman spots a single stray. Despite
the fact that we would definitely never have noticed it in the midst
of such a fine cut, Falcon diligently unpacks the suitcase, unleashes a
pair of scissors and eliminates the pesky lone hair. It is the final touch
of a perfectionist and the sort of attention to detail that will keep us
coming back. To top it all off – Falcon’s a thoroughly nice chap.
Even if he is out of your price range there are seven other mulilingual stylists on site ranging from RMB165-980 for women and
RMB115-468 for men. Blow-dries (RMB80-380), up-dos (RMB350480) and highlights (RMB480-680) are also available, as is coloring
from the likes of Schwarzkopf, L’Oréal, KeraStraight and Inoa. OH
> Daily 10am-8pm; laurent falcon coiffure studio paris, 43 sanlitun beijie nan,
chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北街南43号楼 (135 0137 2971, www.laurent-falcon.com)
ORIENTAL TAIPAN
An Oasis of Calm in the CBD
Beijingers: rise up. Escape this concrete jungle we inhabit and find
sanctuary in the CBD’s Oriental Taipan. After a hectic week, down
your tools and enjoy a foot massage – it’s the best way to begin the
weekend.
Upon arrival at the salon, the receptionists introduce the available
services and recommend something well-suited. After we make our
selection we are ushered into a private room across a passage that’s
lit with dim, tranquil orange lights, and overflows with fragrances and
light music that wipes away the tiredness before the massage journey
has even begun.
We try the classic foot massage (RMB238) which starts with a
ten-minute footbath in a wooden basin half-full with warm water and
soaking Chinese herbs. Stimulated by the warm water, the essence of
the herbs permeates your skin and is absorbed by the capillaries and
pumped into the blood where it can circulate the whole body. The
footbath also exfoliates dead skin cells on your feet. At the same time,
we receive a massage to the back and neck with the masseuse’s entire
forearm, elbows and fingers forcefully working out the knots and
tension.
After taking our feet from the basin, then drying and wrapping
them with towels, the masseuse starts a firm foot massage focusing
on the arches of the feet, ankles, stressful joints and tissues. His
talented fingers alternate between soothing and intense kneading. We
feel the tension in our feet being pushed and pressed out, with all the
knots and pressure points relieved. We drift in and out of sleep while
the toes, foot arches and heels are pulled, pressured, prodded and
26
JUNE 2014
plucked. Throughout the process, essential oils are used to release
tension. If you are feeling particularly indulgent go for some nail care
services after your massage that range from RMB90 to RMB380.
Happy hour promotions are for members only and are as follows:
head massage, hand massage or Chinese pedicure at RMB218 for 95
minutes (down from RMB296); premium foot massage and premium
partial body massage RMB368, 95minutes (down from RMB486).
Deals available Monday to Friday before 5pm (except for public
holidays). KK
> oriental taipan, building 25, central park third phase, 6 chaoyangmen Waidajie,
chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳门外大街6号新城国际公寓三期25号楼 (6597 0015)
comedy » LIFE & STYLE
REVERSE CULTURE SHOCK
An Interview With Conrad Hotel General
Manager Ian Alexandre
There’s an old truism among
foreigners living in China, that
once you leave – you leave.
That is to say, few people ever
return. But with Beijing having
undergone so many changes in
recent years, isn’t the reverse
also true – don’t most people
who leave, find themselves
itching to come back? “It was
certainly true for me,” says
Beijing Conrad Hotel General Manager, Ian Alexandre. “It’s difficult
to turn your back on China completely. I had an amazing experience
during my first time here, and so when the Conrad job came up – I
found it impossible to refuse.”
Although originally from Perth, Alexandre has spent much of the
last 20 years living in Asia. “My wife and I have moved around a lot,”
he says of his time in the hospitality industry. “Asia feels more like
home than Australia now!”
Alexandre’s love for China runs deep. In the mid-90s, he and his
wife moved to Shanghai. It’s an event that he recalls with fondness.
“We didn’t really know a great deal about China – we certainly weren’t
experts! It was one of those occasions where an opportunity comes
up – and you decide to grab it,” he says. As you might expect, Shanghai
in the 90s was a very different city to Shanghai today. “There were
very few foreigners back then. And absolutely no fancy restaurants.
The city was still yet to really get started. You could feel that it was set
to explode. But day-to-day life was still quite slow, and comparatively
provincial. It was a wonderful time – we loved it.” Stints in a variety of places including Hong Kong, Kuala Lumpur
and Washington DC followed, as well as a return to his native
Australia. “It was a real case of reverse culture shock,” he says of the
move back home. “Obviously, it was great to be back in the West, and
I enjoyed so many aspects of it, but it was also so very different – the
way things are done, the 5-day work week, everything shuts down
at 5:30pm, most offices shut at lunchtime on a Friday. It’s a different
speed.”
Such differences can pose a challenge from a management
perspective too. “I think you get used to a bigger work force while
working in Asia. But there’s also the cost. Australia is super expensive.
For example, I called the engineer in to get a small tear in the carpet
fixed. He came back with a quote for 600 dollars. Just to get it fixed.
You could buy an entire carpet for that in China!” he laughs. “I guess
people in Australia don’t know how to haggle!”
> conrad hotel beijing, 29 Dongsanhuan beilu, chaoyang 朝阳区东三环北路29号 (6584
6000)
FEELING AT HOME WITH SERVICED APARTMENTS
Love thy neighbor. It seems
like a relentlessly selfless motto
by which to live your life, but
having a good relationship with
those who share your living
space is important to your wellbeing. For many of us expats
and travelers, ‘home’ can be a
faraway place, but it can also
be faraway people. What would
home be without your friends,
family and community?
Ascott has been helping
people set up homes all over
the world for 30 years now.
“When you’re living abroad
temporarily one of the hardest
things can be the isolation,”
says Darren Cher, General
Manager for Ascott in North
and Central West China. Ascott
is the largest international serviced residence owner-operator
in China with over 10,300 units
in 57 properties in cities as wide
ranging as Shenyang to Hong
Kong. There are now four residences in Beijing, a destination
Cher states is still very much at
the core of Ascott’s focus.
The company’s serviced
apartments strive to create
not only the utmost in
advertorial
comfort, but also the
utmost in community.
“This is something that
sets our brand apart
from regular hotels,”
says Cher. “We combine the hardware with
the ‘heartware’ and
provide our residents
with the comfortable
Ascott lifestyle. Our
depth of knowledge
from local staff helps
you acclimatize and
with regular events
and activities, from
yoga classes to festival
celebrations, residents
offers a complete service. If the
can easily interact with neighbors.”
stress of living in a new city is
Events for all the family are
getting too much, there’s an Asimportant and Ascott takes
cott host on hand 24/7 to help
special care to ensure that
out with any enquiries.
their homes fit the whole family.
This can be especially
From studios to three-bedroom
useful in a city as complex as
apartments, all with a complete
Beijing, but Cher, who has been
range of amenities, like WIFI,
in the capital on and off for 11
laundry and babysitting seryears now, says that the huge
vices, the stresses and chores
overhaul and rapid developassociated with family life are
ment the city has seen is part of
all looked after. Furthermore,
the allure. “Beijing is the cultural
Ascott is a high-end brand that
and diplomatic capital – there is
always demand here and we’re
always trying to meet it.” He is
as committed to China’s capital
as he is to work promoting the
Ascott Brand. “‘Life is about
living’ is what we say at Ascott.
Seeing China change over last
11 years has been one of the
most exciting parts of my life.”
> Global reservations: www.theascottlimited.com or 400 820 1028
(China toll-free)
JUNE 2014
27
collage
What’s new
Penguin China’s latest e-book release is this
short story from Man Asian Literary Prize
nominee Sheng Keyi. Fields of White follows
Jason, a 30-something white collar salesman
juggling a wife, a mistress and a mysterious
new paramour that plunges him into a
mid-life crisis. The off-beat tale continues
Sheng’s winning streak after her 2011 debut
Northern Girls.
Beijing indie-pop favorites Hedgehog return
with their sixth full-length record Phantom
Pop Star. The ten tracks hew to the trio’s
strengths. Opener ‘‘We Fly into Space’’ and
the mournful ‘‘Aspirin’’ showcase their jangly
guitar-fueled melancholy brand of pop. The
title track crackles with the type of energy
that shows why drummer Atom is nicknamed
Astro-boy. Listen at i.xiami.com/hedgehog.
Drumroll
Cracker
Since scoring the oddball 1985 hit ‘‘Take the Skinheads Bowling,’’
David Lowery has led two seminal groups: indie forefathers Camper
Van Beethoven and alternative rockers Cracker. The latter will play
MAO Livehouse on June 28. We caught up with Lowery to talk music,
sarcasm and China copyright laws.
How do you differentiate between your bands?
Cracker is a modern day classic rock band with a rolling 40-year
window of influences. We like things like the Rolling Stones to the
Pixies to Sun Volt. It’s a mess, but rock-and-roll is a mongrel. It always
changes, adapts and survives.
Director Jia Zhangke’s latest A Touch of
Sin scored nominations for Best Film at
the Golden Horse Awards and the Palme
D’or at Cannes Film Festival. The episodic
film follows four stories loosely based on
scandals ripped from the Mainland headlines
stylized like a modern wuxia epic. It’s out in
the city’s DVD bins and has a strong English
translation.
What’s going on with Cracker?
We’re working on two discs: one alternative and one country/
blues-based. We plan to release them next year around the time of a
documentary about us comes out.
For this tour, you’re also raising awareness for artist
intellectual property rights. Why?
Every country with strong copyright enforcement seems to have a
strong music export economy. Korea is a good recent example. With
more than a billion people, China could be a powerhouse. I suggest
stronger enforcement and higher royalties for artists. What could it
hurt?
What do you think of the digital changes in the music industry?
Creatively it’s better. There are fewer gatekeepers but it’s a much
bigger challenge to make a career out of it. I don’t think I’d have made
20-plus albums if I had started today. I would have made three albums
and then gone back to programming computers or doing math.
Are you naturally sarcastic?
My old English aunt once told me, ‘‘That’s a dangerous business you
got there.’’ I thought she was talking about the lifestyle but she cut
me off. ‘‘I’m not talking about sex, drugs and rock-and-roll. I’m talking
about using irony in America.’’ So it not only comes naturally. It runs
in the family.
We have two tickets
to give away.
To win,
email bjeditor@
urbanatomy.com
‘Cracker’
What’s the key to writing a great three-and-a-half minute
song?
There are two ways: have about 45 seconds of words and repeat them
à la ‘‘Gimme Shelter’’ or cram 11 minutes of words like REM’s ‘‘It’s the
end of the world as we know it.’’ Think about it, you know I’m right.
> rmB60-80, 9-11pm. mAo livehouse, 111 gulou dong dajie, gulou, dongcheng 东城区鼓
楼东大街111号 (yoopay.cn/event/Crackerbj)
28
JUNE 2014
Canvassed
Foreign Plans
By A da m d e h m o h s e n i
“What’s the
point of all this?”
quips a hutong
resident at the door
of the Intelligentsia
Gallery in Dongwang
Hutong. “Is it
surrealism or
something?"
Meanwhile,
co-founder Cruz
Garcia kicks a ball
around with a young
neighbor as his
partner Nathalie
Frankowski shows
me around the
intimate space of
“The Relevance of
the Critical Medium,”
their fourth show.
“It was an experiment to see how the gallery would react to the
environment,” Garcia later explains.
Although Intelligentsia has recently hosted shows from artists
as diverse as a Madrid-based Romanian and a French photographer
working in the US, the pair made a conscious decision not to open
in the traditionally internationally-minded art districts of 798 or
Caochangdi. They instead prefer to play on the contrast between their
international perspective and the local context of the hutongs.
But in a sense, Intelligentsia would feel just as at home in Berlin.
So why Beijing? Garcia explains that they were attracted to China out
of “desperation” and as an alternative to more beaten paths in the US,
Latin America and Europe.
“We are not sinologists,” he says. "We are not particularly
interested in the Chinese condition. We are interested in
contemporary art, culture and architecture in a universal way, so from
here we look to the world.”
Foreign artists find themselves in the capital for reasons as
diverse as their work is. While disillusionment with the saturated
New York art world inspired the move for American curator Zandie
Brockett, founder of Bāc-tā-gon Projects, the choice of Beijing also
stemmed from curiosity about her Chinese roots. Brockett spent her
first few months in Beijing intensively studying Chinese and living
with a family near Panjiayuan with Bāc-tā-gon Projects springing
from her interest in multi-disciplinary curation, developed while
working in the studio of local painter Liu Xiaodong.
“How do I create an experience for my audience and not just
another exhibition in a white cube?” she asks. “What is it that allows
someone to make it their own? Usually there’s other senses engaged.”
After two projects incorporating sound, photography and
performance (in collaboration with the Beijing band Pet Conspiracy),
Bāc-tā-gon created “Perceptions of Home,” a 24-hour exhibition
in a Beijing chain motel. Using photography, live soundscapes and
interactive performance in three rented rooms, the exhibition
attracted both art scene regulars and guests from down the hall.
Among the work on display was a closed-circuit live feed showing
images of the other rooms projected onto bathroom walls, evoking
themes of voyeurism, privacy and public space.
“Beijing is a place where you can have an idea and just do it,” says
Brockett. “Perhaps the most exciting aspect of art in contemporary
China is that a gallery can appear next to a bathhouse, or that an
exhibition can happen in a motel.”
Hao Bu Hao
TRANSCRIPTED
Hao
Bu Hao
Nine-time Grammy winner Justin
Timberlake makes his Mainland
debut this month, performing
as special guest to Mandarin
megastar Wang Lee Hom’s June
14 concert at the Worker’s
Stadium. The Beijing show
caps off Wang’s 55-city world
tour that has broken numerous
Mainland music records.
Electronic festival INTRO was canceled
due to “a series of problems with venue
management.” Originally due to take place
last month at Shougang’s Capital Steel
Factory, organizers say the compound’s
leaders “overruled” their earlier decision to
host the party. After unsuccessfully trying
to arrange last-minute alternatives, INTRO
boss DJ Weng Weng pulled the plug, though
he’s told us to keep our eyes peeled for a new
summer beach event, RISING.
“Our goal is to make dance relevant
to new audiences by connecting
itself to other art forms like music,
film, fashion, architecture and
visual arts. Dance is no longer an
isolated art form”
Black Swan choreographer and founder of contemporary
dance troupe ‘L.A. Dance Project’ Benjamin Millepied,
who will perform at the NCPA Theater from June 14-15,
7.30-10pm, RMB80-500. Read our full interview with
the man who famously wedded Natalie Portman at www.
thatsmags.com/beijing
JUNE 2014
29
ARTS « feature
the drop
Beats, Blops and Breaks
May began with possibly the biggest disappointment for Beijing’s dance music scene
since the closure of White Rabbit. INTRO,
the yearly tear-out showcase of homegrown
DJ talent, whose sixth edition was scheduled for May 24th at the old Capital Steel
Factory, had been canceled. The reason?
The venue’s new boss wasn’t a fan of EDM –
he re-allocated Intro’s booking to a soprano
trio, apparently.
Yep, it sucked. Real bad. But looking
at the range of parties over the past few
weeks and coming up this month, we have
very little to complain about. Last month
saw underground quality like Bok Bok and
Total Freedom, mainstream big-hitters like
Armin van Buuren at the Great Wall, and
another of those Bunker parties that seem
to be doing pretty well. Dry your eyes –
June is shaping up to be a belter.
First, an outdoor courtyard party,
by a l e x tag ga rt
because summer. The chillest venue (The
Other Place) in the city’s chillest district
(Gulou) plays host to undoubtedly Beijing’s
most chiiiiiiilled-out DJ line-up (Boflex,
Juhstynn, Kaize and MRG) and some chillhot BBQ. This one, on June 7th is number
one in a series of three parties hosted by
The Sanctuary this summer – gotta catch
‘em all.
Pretentious scene-hugging w*nker
that I am, I’ve tried really hard to hate the
Release party. It’s “EDM” in its purest (and
most pejorative) form – a big-room mix of
trance, electro and house, with international investors behind it.
However, in this case, my underground
instinct is dead wrong. By throwing a
bunch of cash at electronic music events
in the hope of bringing electronic music to
the masses, the guys at Modern Sky and
Modern Art Entertainment are doing us
all a favor. June 13th is the second installment of their series, this time with actuallyquite-respectable Dutch house badman
Vato Gonzalez at Tango.
I’ve shouted out this dude many a time
in this column and elsewhere, but this
month he’s moving to Japan, so here’s an
extra-special big up: here’s to Sun Dawei,
AKA 8-bit producer, hard electro and
techno enthusiast and Shanshui Records
founder Sulumi, the first Beijing electronic
musician to push Chinese homegrown
dance sounds overseas. We of Beijing salute
you, sir. If you’ve ever seen a young local DJ
that you liked, chances are they have been
involved with Sulumi at some point. Come
say farewell at his leaving party, hosted by
Do Hits! at Dada on June 20th.
Electric City
Hot Chip and CSS
Headline New EDM Series
by A n d r e w C h i n
As frontwoman of local electro-rockers
Nova Heart, Helen Feng has blazed a path
for Mainland indie-dance. Her company
Fake Music has started the new music series
Electric City with Pilot Records bringing in
Grammy nominated Hot Chip and Brazilian
electro-rockers CSS for a pair of high-profile
shows.
“We chose them because they have tons
of local appeal to test the waters,” Feng
explains. “Our ultimate goal is to add a
platform for artists to educate, share, create
and develop to where they can go onto the
world stage. It’s time for music in China to
start creating new trends, not just regurgitate
old ones.”
Few groups exemplify Feng’s ambitions
like CSS who play Beijing on June 27. The
São Paulo group formed in 2003 and quickly
translated Internet buzz into tangible
worldwide success with infectious singles
like “Music is my Hot Hot Sex”, which went
on to soundtrack a global iPod advertising
30
JUNE 2014
campaign seen by millions.
Initially lumped with groups like the
Klaxons as part of the nu-rave revolution, the
group has soldiered on as the genre joined
other musical memes like electroclash,
dance-punk and chillwave as short-lived
phenomena. CSS guitarist Ana Rezende
derides the title admitting, “We don’t even
really know what nu-rave is.”
They celebrated an unlikely 10th
birthday last year releasing their fine fourth
album Planta despite the acrimonious loss
of co-founder and multi-instrumentalist
Adriano Cintra. “We are very proud of this
record,” says Rezende. “We had to restructure
a little but it ended up giving us more space
to write songs together. It was by far our
most collaborative effort.”
Although Rezende admits that CSS is
taking most of the year off after going “nonstop for five years,” the monolith that is
Hot Chip keeps growing. Since scoring a
dancefloor hit with 2006’s “Over and Over,”
the British quintet expertly straddle the
line between indie stalwarts and dancefloor
deviants.
It will be the later incarnation that’ll
spin at Migas on June 14. The group will be
represented by their DJ duo of Felix Martin
and Al Doyle who have prepped a set of
electro-soul for their eagerly anticipated
Mainland debut. Feng hopes the attention
that these shows bring acts as an earworm
for Electric City’s larger ambitions. “We want
to build a solid local scene where people
don’t always get frustrated and quit, or that
isn’t too niche and exclusive,” she says.
> hot Chip: June 14; 10pm-late; pre-sale rmB80, on the
door rmB120; migas (www.fakemusicmedia.com)
> Css: June 27, 8pm; pre-sale rmB180, on the door
rmB240; Beijing hit Fm live (www.fakemusicmedia.com)
WIN 2 tickets to CSS, email bjeditor@
urbanatomy.com, with the headline ‘CSS’
feature » ARTS
Wang Wen
Beyond the Thunderdome
“We still have new ideas about music that
we want to keep expressing”
As anyone who attended the recent Tortoise show at Yugong Yishan
can attest, post rock – that’s music without vocals or lyrics for the
uninitiated – is big business in Beijing. So big, that a thousand or so
people will gladly pay RMB200 to stand patiently in a packed, furnacehot space for several hours – with little to no chance of getting to
the bar, to watch a show that without the theatrics of a frontman, is
arguably not all that different from listening to the CD. But we digress.
Because when it comes to post rock and China, there is only one band
that matters: Dalian quintet Wang Wen.
Since forming in 1999, the group has shared stages with genre
giants like Mogwai, collaborated with peers in Godspeed! You
Black Emperor and notched up several international tours. They’re
now preparing to embark on a nationwide tour to celebrate their
upcoming eighth album, the aptly titled 8 Houses.
Guitarist Xie Yugang credits the band’s longevity to curiosity.
“What keeps us going on is that we still have new ideas about music
that we want to keep expressing,” he says. “We’re all interested in new
things and hate to always be playing the same style.”
Formed by two Smashing Pumpkins-obsessed adolescents –
guitarists Xie and Geng Xin – the band’s sound has since migrated
away from their original influences into more complex instrumental
territory. Their 2003 debut Sleepless Days Diary, although owing an
obvious debt to bands such Sonic Youth, struck a chord with fans
thanks to its breakout single, “The Dying Year End”.
With its success, Wang Wen became unlikely trailblazers in the
Mainland’s nascent indie music scene. Subsequent albums were
praised as bold steps forward musically as the band expanded
their swelling soundscapes with Western and domestic influences,
especially on 2007’s standout RE: RE: RE:.
Yet despite the accolades, the quintet remain loyal to their
hometown. It’s only been a couple of years since Xie quit his job
working at a shipyard to open the now popular bilingual bookstore/
café/livehouse Echo. He remains buzzed about the group’s DanSheng
Music Festival – a multi-day gathering involving bands across China
performing on the beach, that they hope to organize every few
months throughout the warmer months – and praises local groups
Doc Talk Shock and Which Park.
“Dalian is a small city, even on the music side,” Xie says. “There are
few bands living here, and much like other groups in other second or
third tier cities, the bands here are very different to those in Beijing.”
8 Houses captures Wang Wen’s loyalty for their hometown and
penchant for experimenting. They eschewed the studio to record
in a small library in Dalian. Four producers, including P.K. 14’s
Yang Haisong and Belgian indie-group Toman’s frontman Wouter
Vlaeminckx worked on the record mixing in ambient noises like the
sound of cars parking outside.
“We were really tired of the common recording room’s sound and
had played the library once. The sound there is very cool, so why not
try a new place?” Xie explains of the eight-song disc. “Each song is
quite different and we wanted the producers to mix it in their own
way.”
Beijing fans will be able to hear the record when the group plays
Yugong Yishan on June 20. For newcomers, Xie promises a powerful
show. “Some parts are very, very loud and some quite calm,” he says.
“It’s very emotional.”
> June 20, 8.30-11pm, rmB80-100; yugong yishan, 3-2 Zhangzizhong lu (100m west of
Zhangzizhong lu subway station), dongcheng 东城区张自忠路3-2号 (6404 2711, www.
newnoise.cn)
WIN 2 TICKETS, email bjeditor@urbanatomy.com, with the
headline ‘Post Rock is eating my soul, make it stop’
JUNE 2014
31
ARTS « feature
The Shakespeare
Redemption
Oscar-winner Tim Robbins Discusses his First Mainland Show
For most people of a certain age, Tim Robbins will always be Andy
Dufresne from Shawshank Redemption, the earnest banker-turnedwrongly-accused murderer, who, opposite Morgan Freeman’s Red,
spends two decades wearing denim dungarees, humming Mozart and
being sexually abused in a fictional postwar big house for a crime he
didn’t commit, before eventually tunneling his way to freedom.
It’s the type of ‘serious’ role that defines a career, but Robbins,
now aged 55, is more than just a footnote in the annals of Oscar
history (Best Actor for Shawshank went to Robbins’ co-star, Freeman.
Robbins would go onto win best supporting actor for 2003’s Mystic
River).
As the Artistic Director of the Los Angeles-based Actors’ Gang,
Robbins has overseen the production of over 100 plays, including
a forthcoming production of Shakespeare’s A Midsummer Night’s
Dream, due to arrive in Beijing on June 10 at the NCPA Theater.
“The dream was never movies,” says Robbins, of the troupe
that he co-founded back in 1981. “We were a combination of actors
that loved European theater and punk rock. We stayed away from
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JUNE 2014
American realism and tended towards more exciting material that
had a larger canvas. I’m proud to say we’ve never done a play with a
couch before.”
Unsurprisingly, Midsummer is unlikely to feature a couch.
An endearing comedic romance involving young couples and
manipulative fairies in an trippy forest setting, the 420-year-old play
stands out as one of Shakespeare’s more fantastical creations. Past
adaptations – especially those in the 1960s – have played up the
enchantment, but Robbins has gone for a more minimalist approach.
“I’m a big believer of less on stage. When I see these kinds of
productions with big sets and lavish scenery, I feel like I’m watching
a theme park,” he says. “To me, theater is about the connection
between the actors and the audience. The more bells and whistles
you have, the less attention you pay to the heart of what the author is
talking about and what the actors are trying to portray.”
Robbins first directed Midsummer in 1984 while also starring as
Oberon. “Pieces constantly evolve,” he explains. “It’s based on certain
European companies that really take their time to develop a piece.
feature » ARTS
Unfortunately, they’re state-funded and we’re not, so we have to be
more economical.” Nonetheless, the Beijing shows will feature the
same cast (pictured above) that performed with Robbins last year in
California.
“Usually we do a workshop production and if we’re interested in
developing it, we’ll let it germinate for seven months and do it again,”
he says of the process.
Robbins’ reportedly funded the Actors’ Gang’s inaugural 1982
production of Alfred Jarry’s Ubu the King through his salary as a
waiter and early television work. It was a smart investment. The LA
Weekly described the show as “a shot heard around the city,” with
Robbins shining in the lead role as the madcap king.
The troupe has since grown in size and now counts stars like
Jack Black, John Cusack, John C. Reilly, Helen Hunt and Jeremy Piven
among its occasional and past members.
“What we have is rare,” he admits. “It’s a company of actors that
has been together for over 30 years that still has original members in
it. We operate as an ensemble and have a real sense of community.”
That civic-mindedness is evident in their education programs in
working with inner-city youth and prison inmates. Robbins says their
educational responsibilities have expanded over the past decade, an
attempt to fill the void left by Californian budget cuts.
“Great art involves receiving everything around you and
processing it in a way that’s productive,” he explains of the program’s
impact. “Having empathy for people with less than you helps you
be able to portray emotions of other characters and that makes you
grow as a sentient being. I see it happen over and over again.”
Of course, philanthropy isn’t possible without a busy schedule
and the Actors’ Gang will also take Midsummer to Shanghai and to
Italy’s distinguished Spoleto Festival. The director is optimistic that
China will become a regular stop in their international circuit.
“If the offers are there and timing is right, we want to go,” he
says. “The theory is that we want to be able to pack up one trunk and
go anywhere in the world to do a show.”
> June 10-15, 7.30pm, rmB180-300; nCPA Theatre, 2 xi Chang'an Jie, xicheng 西城区西长
安街2号 (en-damai.cn, 400 610 3721)
JUNE 2014
33
i l lu s t r at i o n by Z h a n g m i n g s h u
Chin P'ing Mei
The Chinese Classic That Took Three Decades to Translate
by J o n at h a n c h atw i n
Just under 65 years ago, an adolescent American browsing a
secondhand bookstore near the Confucian Temple in Nanjing
discovered an unexpurgated Chinese copy of the notorious 16th
century novel Chin P’ing Mei (generally translated into English
as The Plum in the Golden Vase). It was a real find, for the book,
though considered by many as one of the great classical Chinese
novels – it jostles with Journey to the West, Dream of the Red
Chamber, Romance of the Three Kingdoms and Water Margin for a
place in the top four – had, for its licentiousness, been banned or
suppressed by those in authority for much of its history.
The young westerner, who had been searching for the volume
for some time, had previously only been able to lay his hands on
censored Chinese versions and an English translation, published
in 1939, in which all of the raciest sections of the novel had,
disappointingly, been rendered into Latin. His discovery on
that dusty Nanjing bookshelf was probably a case of the novel’s
reputation working in its favor for once; in the wake of the
Communist takeover the previous year, it had again become a
dangerous book to own.
JUNE 2014
35
ARTS « feature
At the time, the young scholar, who, having spent most of
his upbringing in China was already near-fluent in the language,
surely had no inkling of the influence the work would have on his
life, and that his adolescent curiosity would lead to the devotion
of half a lifetime to the production of a faithful translation of
the work. Yet, in 1982 that youthful moment led David Tod Roy,
by then returned to America and working at the University
of Chicago as a specialist in Chinese literature and culture, to
embark upon the ambitious project of translating the entire
work into English for the first time. In 2013, over 30 years on,
Princeton University Press published the fifth and final volume
of Roy’s translation to the great satisfaction of its now 80-yearold translator: “It felt great,” he commented after its completion,
“mainly because I could thumb my nose at the people who said
I would never finish.” Together, the five volumes of the finished
work run to some 3,000 pages.
To the potential disappointment of the prurient, it’s probably
worth noting, first of all, that it is but a very small proportion of
those pages that contain anything that would raise more than
the eyebrow of a modern reader. Despite its reputation, this is
not, even in the sections which do relate the protagonist’s sexual
exploits, a pornographic work, with references tending towards
the allusive rather than explicit, as in this passage from Chapter
21 of the novel:
Before they knew it they arrived at that stage in which:
The transfusing touch of the magic rhinoceros horn
Produces a pleasure that cannot be exceeded.
Her musky tongue is partially protruded,
The fragrance of her rouge pervades his lips.
What, then, is Chin P’ing Mei? At its most prosaic level, the
work is a story of the consequences of immorality; namely, that
of one seemingly unremarkable man: the young, libidinous and
wealthy merchant Hsi-men Ch’ing who makes his living and his
home in the town of Ch’ing-ho in present-day Shandong province.
The novel – ostensibly set in the period of the Northern Song
dynasty (960-1127), though considered by critics as a direct
commentary on the perceived moral decline of the Ming era
during which it was composed (the novel was published in 1618)
– begins with Hsi-men Ch’ing’s seduction of the beautiful and
unhappily married P’an Chin-lien.
Together, Hsi-men and P’an plot and carry out the murder
of P’an’s husband, and the reader follows Chin-lien into Hsimen’s household. Here, we track the merchant’s duplicitous
relationships with numerous wives and concubines, his libidinous
adventures with his drinking buddies in the licensed quarter
and his rise into a position of governmental authority, which he
expertly leverages to line his own pockets. However, Hsi-men’s
hubris leads eventually and inevitably to a dramatic fall from
grace. The work is one hundred chapters long, and symmetrical
in structure; Hsi-men’s downfall is secured at the exact midpoint
of the novel, when he acquires an aphrodisiac on which he later
overdoses and dies, at the age of 33.
The work, then, is a morality tale of familiar, episodic form
with a unitary plot centering on a single character and his
world, finding perhaps its closest modern comparison in the
television soap opera (and, as Roy notes himself, the soap opera’s
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JUNE 2014
feature » ARTS
”At its most prosaic level,
the work is a story of the
consequences of immorality“
antecedent, the Victorian novel – particularly Dickens’ Bleak House).
Thus, there are few challenges for the modern reader in following the
novel’s action – something that cannot always be said for the Chinese
classics.
None of which is to imply that Chin P’ing Mei is somehow
lightweight; indeed, its richest pleasures result from its conveyed
understanding of conventional, quotidian life. Where the other great
classics of Chinese literature concern the higher echelons of society
– warriors, mandarins and aristocrats – the characters of Chin P’ing
Mei are determinedly ordinary, living a life still recognizable in that
of modern China. And, as in ordinary life itself, there are passages
of great drama – the suspense of the initial seduction of P’an Chinlien kept me up late into the evening – and others of relative tedium
(often concluded, as if the author has managed to bore himself, with
an abrupt ‘But no more of this’). Reading the work is best seen as
entering an immersive reality, in which even the banal passages
simply serve to heighten the profundity of the reader’s experience.
The novel is a great work – perhaps the great work – of humanistic
realism, surpassing the many works of Balzac’s Comedie Humaine in
a single volume. However, just as Balzac’s minutely detailed works
embodied the larger tensions of French society, so the specifics of the
Chin P’ing Mei offer a broader commentary on the state of the society
of the novel’s time, and, in particular, the irresponsibility of the late
Ming Jiajing and Wanli emperors, who oversaw the gradual decline of
the empire.
David Tod Roy has made accessing the world of the novel
straightforward by translating into a clear, everyday English, whilst
still keeping a distinct flavor of the formal qualities of the original.
He has also, somewhat incredibly, managed to track down all of the
many thousand quotations in Chin P’ing Mei which come from other
earlier texts; to do so, he spent two years compiling an index of every
line of poetry, parallel prose and proverbial speech in the book, and
then read every extant work of Chinese fiction and drama dating
from before the writing of the novel; a feat which goes some way to
explaining the edition’s four-and-a-half thousand footnotes. To say
that Roy’s translation is authoritative is a spectacular understatement.
So, time to get hold of the five volumes and get started then? Well,
perhaps. Bear in mind that the novel, even read relatively quickly,
will still take the best part of a few months to complete, and despite
its relative accessibility, this is still a serious piece of literature (the
list of characters is over fifty pages long). The idea has been mooted
of publishing a condensed edition of the work, as Anthony Yu did
for his translation of Journey to the West, so time-pressured readers
may wish to postpone embarking on the novel until such time as that
volume may appear. David Tod Roy, however, considers the work’s
greatness ‘best preserved in its entirety’, and it’s hard to see quite
how the richly detailed world of the novel could be satisfactorily
squashed between the covers of a single edition. Those desirous of
getting their first Chinese classic under their belt should embark with
conviction, then, safe in the knowledge that – for the first time ever in
the English language – the whole unexpurgated story awaits them.
JUNE 2014
37
ARTS « feature
HADI ELDEBEK
Yo-Yo Ma’s Bandmate Takes to the Silk Road
by O s ca r H o l l a n D
For many musicians, embarking on a first tour of a foreign country
gives rise to a certain sense of caution. Offering something ‘accessible’
is often the best approach when trying to unlock the hearts of new
and unknown audiences. Or the safest at least.
But engaging with the ostensibly niche appears to be a source of
enthusiasm for Lebanese-born, US-based musician Hadi Eldebek who
is set to tour China alongside his brother Mohamad this month.
“We’re focusing on Lebanese songs from the middle of the 20th
century,” he says matter-of-factly. “But hopefully anyone intrigued by
world music may be interested in coming and listening to us because
it’s such a rich repertoire.
“This period actually marked a revolution in the region and
there was new innovation in Arabic music that separated it from the
old traditions,” Eldebek explains. “After the Second World War and
the independence of many Middle Eastern countries, [musicians]
tapped into a new heritage. It was when they started to combine the
traditional with a new understanding from the West, the Balkans and
elsewhere.”
This fusion of history and music is a recurring theme in Eldebek’s
career. It is no more apparent than in his role as a performing
member of the Silk Road Ensemble, a multi-national musical melting
pot masterminded by the seventeen-time Grammy Award winner
Yo-Yo Ma. Featuring members from as far afield as the US, Iran and
Azerbaijan, the group propagates the notion that the historical trading
route, after which it is named, was more than just a commercial
avenue.
“We try to interpret the idea of the ancient Silk Road as not only
an economic route but also a platform for people from different
cultures to interact and to exchange ideas, musical instruments, new
scales and so on,” he says. “So we tried to go through the same process
of exchange – but through music.
“Coming to China with my brother is very exciting because the
country was a very important point on the Silk Road. To come and
to get a sense of what the caravans and merchants would have felt is
both intriguing and enthusing.”
38
JUNE 2014
As well as chasing history, Eldebek will bring some of it with
him. Historians have traced the origins of the instrument that he
has mastered – the oud – back to Mesopotamia over 5000 years ago.
The ancestry of the pear-shaped string instrument binds divergent
musical traditions and, Eldebek hopes, will bring him closer to the
performers he encounters on his latest exploration of the Silk Road.
“When [the oud’s ancestor] traveled to the West it became the
lute. When it travelled east and reached China it became the pipa. Of
course they are now different but you can see how they came from
one original ancestor. When I perform with a sheng player or a pipa
player we feel that bond. It’s a transcendent process that is older than
us; it’s as old as the instruments we play.”
Such transcendence may form a central part of the tour, as
Eldebek plans to collaborate with local artists during stops in Xinjiang
and Yunnan, before a series of performances and workshops in
Beijing. Regardless of how familiar China is with the specifics of mid20th century Lebanon, he hopes they are at least “intrigued by the
sound.”
“My favorite place to play is anywhere that I haven’t visited
yet because that unknown expectation has so much suspense,” he
ventures. “I’m always seeking to play in different places for different
people and to see their reaction. And then once I play I’m suddenly
home.”
Like the travelers and nomads that once traversed the old Silk
Road, there is something of the explorer about Hadi Eldebek. It is
hard not to feel that, in a world with almost all of its corners now
discovered, he might have been better served living in a time long
since passed.
> hadi and mohamad eldebek will perform in a series of shows and workshops in
Beijng; Jun 20 (Jianghu Bar), Jun 25 (The Bookworm), Jun 26 (modernista), Jun 27 (The
Bookworm), Jun 28 (Zajia). see event listings for further details.
WIN 2 TICKETS to The Bookworm gig, email bjeditor@
urbanatomy.com, with the headline ‘Hadi stole my lute’
JUNE 2014
39
ARTS « feature
“the world wants
to hear weird sh*t”
Chinese Music Crosses the Border
by A LEX TAGGA RT
40
JUNE 2014
feature » ARTS
“(Foreign listeners) understand
the context. If your music is
good, that’s all that matters”
T
here was a time not so long ago when ‘world music’ meant
flicking through a narrow row of dusty CDs in the basement
of your local record store. World music was distinct from
popular music – both physically and actually, in that it was
neither popular, nor contemporary. Modern music was hip, whereas
‘world music’ it seemed back then, was made up exclusively of lightlybearded men playing some form of outdated, obscure traditional
instrument, while dressed as 19th century goat herders.
As a result, non-Western artists trying to penetrate the American
and European markets were simply pigeon-holed as part of the
miscellaneous ‘other’. The dichotomy between the West and the rest
further reinforced the challenges posed by physical distance.
And then came the Internet. With the help of a VPN and basic
English language skills, artists today – irrespective of location – can
begin creating their own music, interacting with the global production
community and playing the international self-promotion game on
Facebook, Twitter, Youtube and Soundcloud (all of which remain
blocked in China). Listeners may no longer even know (or care)
where their favorite artists come from.
With more than 20,000 plays of his latest EP on Soundcloud,
electronic music producer and Beijing native Howie Lee is one of this
new generation of social media-savvy musicians using the web to
level a playing field that traditionally worked against Chinese artists.
“[Foreign listeners] understand the context. If your music is good,
that’s all that matters,” says Lee. “It’s easier [to reach international
listeners] with electronic music, since there’s no language barrier.”
Having spent a year recording and performing in London, Lee’s
recent return to China has served to remind him how better-suited
his music is to overseas audiences.
“In Kunming and Shanghai, the shows were OK but not what I was
expecting,” says Lee. “I didn’t know the venues or the crowds I was
playing to. Beijing was a little better. In London though, people were
always familiar with the format of what I was doing.”
But the dilemmas of identity facing electronic musicians like
Lee are somewhat subjugated by the absence of lyrics. Reconciling
Chinese ‘roots’ with the international accessibility of English vocals
continues to pose a challenge for many young artists with global
ambitions, like Hua Dong, frontman of veteran Beijing punk rock trio
Re-TROS.
“The first few times we performed in the US, I think a lot of people
were coming to see what a Chinese rock band looked like but as time
went on, people were just coming to watch a band,” says Hua.
According to Hua, Re-TROS’s China-specific lyrical references
are subtle, requiring both English comprehension and some basic
knowledge of China for their full meaning to be understood. “When
we first started out, I used to sing in Chinese,” he says. “But later I
realized that I was more satisfied with the way I could express myself
in English. The music we play is inherently Western – if you were
going to learn to sing Beijing opera, you’d learn in Chinese. English is
the language of rock-and-roll.”
But while some artists have achieved reasonable success from
afar, both through touring and the Internet, permanent relocation to
the West has been invaluable for Fifi Rong, a Beijing-born, LondonJUNE 2014
41
ARTS « feature
“No one has really called me a
‘Chinese artist‘. Music is music. I’m
proud to be Chinese but I wouldn’t
associate that with the word ‘artist’“
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JUNE 2014
feature » ARTS
based singer and producer who describes her style as “post-trip-hop.”
Having moved to the UK aged 16, Rong’s cultural transplantation has
had a positive impact on her influences and she makes prominent use
of Chinese cultural elements in both her visual and musical identity.
“I have half-Chinese culture in me, in every way – it’s only
natural to reflect my roots,” she explains. “I’m honest with music and
transparent with my character, so what you hear is what I am, really.”
Having earned significant underground attention from a
collaboration with British trip-hop progenitor Tricky, Fifi Rong
currently maintains a larger following in the UK than in China (and
12,700 followers on Twitter to prove it).
But is the growing ability of Chinese music to break into American
and European markets the result of artists taking a more nuanced
approach to becoming accessible, or are the artificial borders of
nationality being eroded? As with Re-TROS Hua Dong, Rong has found
that as her identity develops, the fact that she is Chinese becomes less
of a defining factor. Now, she claims, being Chinese is simply seen as
one aspect of the whole package.
“No one has really called me a ‘Chinese artist.’ Music is music.
I’m proud to be Chinese but I wouldn’t associate that with the word
‘artist.’”
Still, the fact that only a handful of Chinese-born artists have
reached this level does not necessarily imply that western music fans
are exclusionist. Perhaps instead, there has been the simple issue
of quality. With comparatively less money available in the modern
Chinese music scene, recording equipment and software has been
the preserve of a music elite. But with the opening of access to
free professional music production software online, there is now a
generation of new home-grown bedroom producers with identical
setups to their western counterparts.
The Internet has also opened musicians’ access (albeit in a slightly
disorganized and legally controversial manner) to as many musical
influences as those in the West. This is thanks in part to the recent
explosion in the popularity of domestic-owned music streaming
platforms such as Xiami and QQ Music.
Fifi Rong believes that these developments have made the global
network of producers more inclusive and egalitarian than ever. “It’s
the nature of the Internet. You make music, and if people like it, you
get heard,” she says.
But while getting heard is one side of how Chinese artists can
become more successful in America and Europe, in order to become
globally relevant, producers need to break conventions and play with
new ideas. It tends to be the tight music scenes of entire cities – think
Detroit in the 1960s, or Manchester in the 1980s – that can spearhead
innovation. So the question remains: what is the sound of the Chinese
underground, and does it define or imitate?
“In London you can meet all kinds of people, whereas in Beijing
it’s more limited. But that’s not necessarily a bad thing,” says Howie
Lee. “There are so many interesting things to be captured here. ”
According to Lee, many Chinese producers are making interesting
new music, but are hesitant to share more experimental sounds
with peers and the public. This means that Chinese electronic music
appears less progressive than it actually is, leaving artists struggling
to put their music into a global context. “No-one’s interested in
listening to Chinese producers chasing trends,” says Howie Lee. “The
world wants to hear weird sh*t.”
Hua Dong of Re-TROS thinks cultural difference may contribute to
the unwillingness of Chinese artists to push boundaries.
“When we play new stuff in the US, people are always willing to
tell us what they thought was good and bad. In Asia, people tend to
be less forthcoming with their opinions. Even our friends and people
who know a lot about music don’t like to tell us if they didn’t like a
song.”
Whether the globalization of production and performance will
help or hinder the natural development of a distinctive Beijing or
Shanghai ‘sound’ is uncertain. Perhaps the Internet’s ability to help
artists draw influence from and collaborate with other artists leaves
the concept of a “local” aesthetic obsolete.
Maybe geography matters not. In the words of Portugal-based
web user Miguel Forster (one of almost 13,000 people who listened to
Howie Lee’s UK bass music-influenced remix of the song “Bling Bling”
by one of Beijing’s most established rock bands, Queen Sea Big Shark):
“No idea what she is on about, but this is some hot production.”
JUNE 2014
43
by _ karoline kan
cover story _ 45
I
n 2006, the Chinese Government began construction of a 2.5 meter high concrete barrier along the
1,416km border it shares with North Korea. For most
of its length, the wall follows the route of the Yalu
River – a broad, sweeping waterway that acts as a natural
boundary between the two neighboring countries. Along the
river’s narrower stretches the wall rises to four meters and
is topped with barbed wire. Border guards are on constant
patrol.
Officially, the wall is intended to safeguard China’s territorial integrity by deterring the arrival of North Korea’s
would-be asylum seekers. Unofficially, it’s there to prevent
incidents like the one that occurred on June 3, 2010, when
three Chinese smugglers were shot dead near the city of
Sinuiju, after becoming embroiled in a dispute with North
Korean soldiers.
Smuggling along the border is growing in line with
overall trade. Last year, officially sanctioned trade between
the two countries reached a record USD6.45 billion, 10
percent up on the previous year, according to data from the
Korea International Trade Association. The Chinese city of
Dandong, on the south eastern tip of the Yalu River, handles
as much as 40 percent of that trade.
Born and raised a few kilometers downstream from
Dandong, 48-year-old Yu Zeming has spent much of his
adult life working in what he terms “border-trading companies.” Yu’s job requires that he remains constantly on
call. His work is irregular and dependent on the whim of
his boss. “My life is dull, but my work is full of danger,” he
says. Tomorrow, Yu will go to work. At 6am, he will load his
motorboat with around a ton of rice, flour, cooking oil and
other basic food stuffs needed in North Korea. The goods are
ordered by North Korean clients and will be exchanged for
around two tons of seafood. “The goods in one motorboat
can make a profit of RMB60,000-70,000,” says Yu. “It is worth
the risk.”
The local Dandong Government permits trade within
tightly controlled, clearly marked border areas. But the trade
Yu and his boss are involved in is unregistered, and is, as a
result, illegal. In addition, the use of a private motorboat is
forbidden, though Yu maintains that he is a border trader
and not a smuggler.
Yu has been “playing over the river” for decades, he
claims, and has significant experience dealing with North
Korean businessmen, Chinese customs officers and North
Korean border guards. Nonetheless, it remains a dangerous
journey.
“Why do people die in the trade? It’s normal that quarrels
happen among suppliers and purchasers when people cheat
cover story _ 46
on the amount and quality of products. Both sides have been
fooled,” says Yu. “When conflicts take place, soldiers with
guns may decide in the heat of the moment to shoot. I’ve had
several experiences of having a gun pointed directly at my
head.”
In the village where Yu lives, there are about 1,600 residents. According to Yu, at least 60 percent of the men in
the village participate in illegal cross-border trade. Due to
over-fishing, good quality seafood has become rare in nearby
Chinese waters, leading many Chinese fishermen to enter
into North Korean controlled areas in search of better produce. In markets in Dandong, crabs are sold for RMB200 per
kilo, while in North Korea, they are available for RMB40.
Smuggling is everywhere along the border, according
to former Caijing journalist, Yang Meng, who has reported
extensively on the illegal trade between China and North
Korea.
“In almost every shop along the Dandong border, you’ll
find cigarettes smuggled from North Korea. Given how
widespread it is, how unregulated it remains, and the money
involved, it’s no surprise that a lot of [smugglers] end up losing their lives,” he says.
Since the 1990s, due to a combination of harsh international sanctions and varying domestic crises, the need for
basic foodstuffs has increased exponentially inside North
Korea. “People from both sides have seized the opportunity,”
says Yang.
North Koreans exchange copper, antiques and marine
products for rice, flour, cereal, cigarettes and wine from
China. Although, according to Yu, copper remains one the
most frequently smuggled items, due to use in the construction of new buildings. By the darkness of night, smugglers
from North Korea can be seen wobbling their electric torches
along the Yalu River, alerting those on the other side to their
whereabouts. The river’s width narrows to less than a 1,000
meters in places, taking less than five minutes to cross by
motorboat.
“Smuggling obeys basic market principles of supply and
demand,” says Yang Meng. “Even North Korea, one of few
remaining closed countries in the world, can’t resist those
forces – they’re too strong. Look at those people who risk
their life crossing the border. That’s supply and demand.”
While Yu and his fellow workers begin stockpiling their
supplies in preparation for the following morning’s trip
across the border, Li Huajing, a merchant sailor thousands of
miles away in Guangzhou, is carefully stashing twenty boxes
of baijiu (Chinese liquor) below his ship’s deck to take to the
Solomon Islands.
Li’s Hong Kong-based company ostensibly specializes
“It’s no big deal either way, I can
bribe the customs officials with
soaps and washing powders”
cover story _ 47
in the transportation of timber. “Before 1997, most of the wood consumed in the Chinese Mainland came from domestic suppliers. Then
in 1997, trade was forbidden by the Government due to a fear of overlogging,” recalls Li. It was at this point that his company turned its eyes
to other markets such as Malaysia, Indonesia, Guinea and a number of
southeastern Asian and African countries. It was while docked in the
Solomon Islands that Li first became involved in smuggling.
“It started quite casually,” recalls Li. “One day, when our ship approached the shore, a Filipino guy who had a clinic on the island came
to our ship looking for high purified alcohol for disinfection. He was
excited about finding a Chinese ship – I guess he knew we’d have some
baijiu with us for drinking. I heard he’d had bad luck with Japanese
and Korean ships – they don’t have baijiu.”
The next time Li sailed to the Solomons he took several extra
bottles under the pretense of personal consumption. That number
increased to several boxes and by the year 2000, Li was bringing a
minimum of 20, each containing 12 bottles. “A bottle of no brand baijiu costs around 2-3 yuan [USD 0.32-0.48] in China and will sell for 10
dollars in the Solomons,” says Li.
“Normally, it won’t cause much trouble, but it’s no big deal either
way, I can bribe the customs officials with soaps and washing powders.”
Imports to China have proven equally – if not more – lucrative
than exports. In 2002, Li purchased a rare parrot with a bright yellow
streak running across it’s head for RMB100 in Papua New Guinea.
The bird was later sold for RMB3,000 in China. From then, whenever
Li got the chance, he would smuggle as many as 80 to 100 birds back
per trip.
“When we first started to smuggle rare animals, the salary of a
common sailor was just 300 to 400 yuan a month,” Li explains. “A single bird would be more than an entire month’s salary. The temptation
is huge, irresistible even. For that type of money, it deserves the risk.
“The treatment of sailors today is not much better. The hardship
of the work and the low salary make it very difficult to stay clean.
Everyone is doing it on every ship. And since people on the same ship
cover story _ 48
are doing it together, there is seldom any reporting to authorities.”
Widespread casual smuggling was rare prior to the 1980s, claims
Huang Wu, a Beijing customs official who spoke to That's Beijing on
condition that we used a pseudonym. “China was closed for so long
that it was almost impossible for regular people to bring items in and
out of the country undetected. But after the reform and opening up,
smuggling became very common throughout Chinese border cities,
before spreading across the country.”
Before the 1990s, smuggling occurred only in provinces like
Guangdong, Fujian and Zhejiang, says Huang, while the goods involved tended to be basic necessities of little commercial value, such as
soaps, shoes and cosmetics. However, as illicit trade spread from south
to north, and from coastal cities to inland areas, the types of items being smuggled began to change.
“People no longer brought in shoes and toiletries. By the late
1990s, they were bringing in cars, expensive cigarettes, household
appliances, electronic products, rare and endangered animals, and
drugs,” explains Huang.
The scarcity of many everyday consumer goods played into the
hands of small-time smugglers like Li Huajing.
“It was like a special bonus for us during that time, when foreign
products such as color televisions, refrigerators and motorcycles were
not so common,” he says. “Plus, we could bulk buy them overseas for a
very low price and sell them at a massive profit.”
These products were often passed on wholesale to markets
stocking goods smuggled from overseas, such as Yanghuoer Market
[“Foreign Stuffs Market”] in Tanggu, 30km southwest of Tianjin’s city
center. In the early years of China's reform period, Tanggu became a
center for sought-after luxury items. Close to a major port, it acted as
an entry point for sailors and those working overseas.
During a recent public appearance, former Tanggu District Mayor
Tong Fengze recalled the market at its height: “Many [people] who
came back from abroad would sell foreign goods on the street where
the market is now,” he explained. “This informal market gathered
sellers and buyers, and became famous. Later, people began to trade
“When conflicts take place, the soldiers who
have guns may decide in the heat of the moment
to shoot. I’ve had several experiences of
having a gun pointed directly at my head”
full-time – in secret of course. It was a ‘ghost’ market. Everyone knew
about it, no one acknowledged it.”
The market still draws large crowds and although it no longer
operates in secret, many of the vendors continue to claim that their
goods are smuggled from abroad. A variety of world-famous brands
and luxury goods are sold at discount prices and as we browse a watch
stand, the owner lowers his voice and asks us whether we’d be interested in seeing the “good stuff?”
“Smuggled?” asks a man to our right.
“Yes, smuggled, just got off a ship from Europe last week. Rado,
Rolex, Omega, Longine. I have whatever you want.”
The owner looks around cautiously before continuing: “Recently
the cops have been watching. We have to be careful,” he says, turning
to an accomplice. “Stand guard at a nearby table and make sure there
are no police!” He reveals his watches in haste and, clearly agitated,
covers them again with a cloth. “See that man over there? He’s suspicious.” The customer appears convinced of the items’ quality and buys
what he believes to be an Omega for RMB500.
Later, another market vendor tells us that the watch was fake.
“Customers here are such idiots! I can’t believe they fall for these
scams. There are smuggled items here in Tianjin, but they’re not that
easy to find. The rest is fake. Calling it smuggled just makes the fake
rubbish sound mysterious.”
During the recent National Custom Directors’ Congress held
on January 21 this year, officials reported that between June and
December last year, 1,063 cases of smuggling were investigated, involving more than RMB17.42 billion in smuggled goods. To put that
in perspective, from 1949 to 1979 the total figure, adjusted in accordance with inflation, was estimated at a comparatively paltry RMB1.3
million.
The forces of international economics may leave China particularly prone to the growth of this illicit trade, according to customs
officer Huang.
“Many products made in China are not competitive in the inter-
national market. To protect the Chinese economy, China implements
high tariffs on imported products,” he says. “This makes a big price
gap between foreign products bought abroad and those bought domestically. This makes smuggling very profitable, especially for casual
smugglers such as sailors who bring in products that don’t carry severe
punishments.”
But casual smuggling, although considered a lesser crime, is
impacting the wider economy too. “Chinese customs are facing a major problem,” says Huang. “Smuggling reduces tax revenue at a central
Government level but does not affect that of the local Government.
Some local Governments – especially those in the coastal areas – even
benefit from it. They believe that smuggling can boost their local
economy, so they choose to turn a blind eye to it.”
By the time we talk again with Yu Zeming, he has returned safely
from his recent trip across the Yalu River. “At around 7am I saw a
North Korean patrol boat near Hongshan Island, so I got in touch with
them using a loud speaker and bribed them,” says Yu.
“Those men on military boats have more demand for the gifts. We
usually give them high-end cigarettes, such as ‘China Yuxi’. For the officials, we send them liquor. They prefer liquor of low purity. We also
give them rice and flour.”
The trip was not without danger. “I saw North Korean boats catch
hold of a number of Chinese boats. If you get caught, you’ll have to
give them [North Korean border police] merchandise worth upwards
of 60,000 yuan to get your boats back,” says Yu.
“Without bribing them, boats from China are not allowed to get
to their islands. It seems that there is nobody on Hongshan Island but
once you berth there, soldiers suddenly appear and you find yourself
standing within their firing range – at that point, you better have a
good bribe ready.”
Special thanks to Yang Meng
for his expert assistance, without which this story
would not have been possible.
cover story _ 49
meth
ELECTRONICS
An insatiable desire for gadgets, high import taxes and a porous
Shenzhen-Hong Kong border have combined to create a lucrative underground trade for electronics. In 2011, around 100,000 smuggled units
were seized. In 2012, 68 smugglers were detained in an e-goods bust
valued at RMB500 million, and 14 arrests were made in a separate case
involving 60,204 cameras and a variety of accessories worth USD63.5
million. Last year, 504 separate cases of e-smuggling were uncovered –
the majority of which involved high quanitites of high-value products
such as iPhones and tablets.
cover story _ 50
On January 3, 2014, Chinese law enforcement conducted an extensive
sting operation, seizing 2,925 kilograms of methamphetamine, 260 kilograms of ketamine powder and more than 23 tons of raw materials used
for drug production in the city og Lufeng, Guangdong. The 182 people
eventually taken into police custody were found to be part of 18 major
drug gangs. One was even a former local Communist Party chief and
village head.
Commenting on the drug raid at a press conference later that
month, Deputy Director-General of the Guangdong Provincial
Department of Public Security, Guo Shaobo, reported a startling statistic: more than one-third of the country’s total methamphetamine over
the past three years came from Lufeng, the majority of which had been
intended for export overseas. Nonetheless, methamphetamine remains
China’s fastest growing drug problem. While still second, behind heroin,
the number of domestic meth addicts increased by 44 percent in 2012.
By Gary Maidment, Monica Liau, Andrew Chin, Jane Kent
human
trafficking
Last year, the US State Department downgraded China to Tier 3 status
in its Trafficking in Persons Report, posistioning the country alongside
Russia, North Korea and Saudi Arabia, and opening up the Maianland
to potential sanctions. The Government has since released a new eightyear national plan of action including “measures to improve interagency
cooperation, improve victim protection and reaffirm the importance of
international cooperation.”
In the past two years, 13,000 abducted children and 23,000 women
were rescued. More than 80,000 suspects from 10,000 alleged human
trafficking organized crime groups were placed in detention. Many more
remain at large.
wildlife
By the time animals or wildlife products are placed in the hands of the
consumer, they have often made long journeys through forests, rivers,
over land and sea before delivery to dealers and clandestine markets.
Wildlife trafficking operates through a vast web of players: poachers, human ‘mules,’ retailers, exporters, local villages and corrupt officials – all
connected globally through organized crime networks.
The number one destination of this complex supply chain: China.
The global trade in illegal wildlife is worth an estimated USD19.1 billion annually, with dozens of agencies and experts continually identifying China as the key destination, according to a 2013 report by the
International Fund for Animal Welfare (IFAW).
“Ten years ago, less than 10 percent of confiscations in the Global
Confiscations Database were in China. Now, the country accounts for 80
to 90 percent,” says Dr. Li Zhang, an associate professor of field biology
at Beijing Normal University, who has studied wildlife consumption for
15 years.
cover story _ 51
grapevine
nibbles
Some major bar awards took
place in May and we’re pleased
to report that Great Leap made
it into CNN’s top ten beer bars
in Asia. (See you at it’s
Craft Beer Festival,
p64.) However, the
results of CNN’s hotly
anticipated ‘best hutong
bar to drink in with a
beard’ have yet to be announced.
Xingfucun’s latest opening is
a bar called Bottle, Boot and
Cigar, a place which offers cigars
and wet shaves (and takes itself
quite seriously).
‘Pizza Express watch’ rolls
into its third month now. By the
time you read this it should be
open in Blue Frog’s old digs in
Sanlitun Tai Koo Li. It’s going
to be a dough balls and garlic
butter summer. But can they
match the mighty La Pizza,
which is opening a new branch
in Chaowai SOHO?
The German Kempinski is
rebranding its Italian restaurant
La Gondola to become Via Roma.
Expect all the professionalism
of hotel dining, as well as some
harmonious environs for you to
luxuriate in etc., etc. We’ve also
heard that the Kerry Hotel plans
to open a new wine bar on-site.
Intestine hotpot is a dish
we never thought we’d be into
but Japanese restaurant Tetsu
convinced us otherwise. It’s
opening a new place in the Twin
Towers on Jianguomen.
Apothecary chief, Leon Lee,
has announced plans to open
a new jazz bar, YUE FU. Can it
rival Beijing improv institution
East Shore (or maybe new hotstepper Jazz Graden [sic] see
p59)?
Lastly, we heard
rumors from a
questionable source
that Whole Foods
will be opening a flagship
organic supermarket in Beijing.
Unsubstantiated tittle-tattle or
the start of a quinoa revolution?
Let the speculation begin. WP
52
JUNE 2014
pick of three: Dragon Boat Festival Zongzi
Din Tai Fung
Sofitel
Kempinski
DTF’s are available throughout
the year, but this special Dragon
Boat box set includes a limited
edition purple sweet potato
variety. RMB148/six.
The fifth day of the fifth lunar
month equals Dragon Boat
Festival and the Kempinski’s deli
has your sticky rice dumpling
needs covered. RMB198/box.
路9号侨福芳草地大厦地下二层lg2-20
Sofitel’s cosmopolitan box
contains a traditional set, a
luxurious set and a Parisian chic
set – classic Sino-Gallic zongzi.
From RMB48/two to
RMB338/ten.
Jianguo lu chaoyang 朝阳区建国路93号
朝阳区亮马桥路50号凯宾斯基饭店 (6465
(8562 6583)
万达广场c座 (8599 6666)
3388)
> b2/F, lg2-20 parkview green, 9
dongdaqiao lu, chaoyang 朝阳区东大桥
> sofitel, Tower c, wanda plaza, 93
> kempinski hotel beijing lufthansa
center, No. 50 liangmaqiao lu, chaoyang
Head to Head
Annie’s Vs Gung Ho
The Challenge:
The quickest and best take-out lasagna
Delivery time: 23 minutes. Phone-to-door. Rapid.
When to eat: Hungover from the night before/
coming down from a bad trip.
Delivery time: 51 minutes. Plodding.
When to eat: Watching a marathon session of
House of Cards.
Style: Comes in its own ceramic bowl – that you get Style: A uninspiring cheap plastic tub.
to keep! Collect ten and you can offset your guilt by
exchanging them for a free pizza.
Tasting Notes: Piping hot, excessively creamy,
drowning in cheese. Will soak up even the fakest of
Sanlitun alcohol. A no-nonsense option.
Price: RMB49
Tasting Notes: A more homemade quality, has
a nutty, complex flavor. Sauce has discernable
vegetable bits – definite bonus. Could maybe do
with a little more cheese.
Price: RMB67
Gung Ho’s gourmet effort is undoubtedly the better product, but then it ought to be, given that it takes
almost twice as long to arrive. Despite Gung Ho’s use of fresh vegetables and fancy herbs, we’re going
to have to chalk this one up as a victory for ever-dependable Annie’s. No one wants to wait almost an
hour for their takeout. SG
Soundbite
bartisans
“The United Nations has recommended
mealworms for starving people in poor
areas, so we thought: why can’t they be
used by astronauts in space?”
Bartisans is a semi-regular column where Beijing’s best
bartenders introduce their favorite cocktails. This month:
Zoe from Mokihi.
Hu Dawei, a researcher from Beijing University of Aeronautics and Astronautics,
after a successful experiment in which subjects lived off a diet of mealworms for
105 days while sealed off in a test laboratory. “The volunteers seemed healthy
and happy throughout,” said Hu during an interview with the SCMP.
AQI IPA
Jing A Brewing Pollution Themed Ales
In anticipation of a hazy
summer ahead, our
favorite rapscallion beer
merchants, Jing A Brewing,
have produced a special
limited edition batch of
Airpocalypse IPA. The
concoction, so named for
its smoggy appearance, has
an alcohol volume of 8.8
percent – way beyond index.
The team has promised to
make it available on tap
at the forthcoming Beijing
Craft Beer Festival (see
p64). If it’s all sold out by the time you arrive, fear not, there’s likely to be several
new similarly experimental brews on the way soon, thanks to Jing A’s decision to
boost their capacity by a gargantuan 50 percent with the installation of several
gleaming new tanks at the Big Smoke restaurant.
Eating humble pie
Subway Performs U-turn on Eating Ban
Good news for surreptitious snackers: a ban on eating on the Beijing Subway
has been reversed, with officials now merely “encouraging” passengers not to
consume food on their commute. The initial ruling, which had been in place
since March 10 of this year, threatened fines of up to RMB500 for transgressors.
But the capital’s Legal Affairs Office deleted the offending item from its draft
regulations and instead will include it as a suggestion in a passengers’ handbook.
One of the organization’s officials explained that eating and drinking “doesn't
have much direct relation to the safety of the subway operation” and admitted
that enforcement was proving difficult. We could have told you that...
The drink. Mokihi Special Moscow Mule. With a base
of ginger-infused Ketel One vodka, Zoe (above) throws in
some ginger slices, lime juice, cucumber and homemade
ginger beer. It’s served in a copper mug, shiny enough
to see your own drunken reflection in. (Zoe is pictured
making the ‘In Love Again’ cocktail.)
The history. The much-maligned Moscow Mule
was first designed as a marketing ploy to get drinkers
in America onto vodka. (Hard to believe now that they
ever needed persuading – although vodka was famously
referred to as “Russian for ‘horrendous’” by one
blinkered American drinker.) Despite the simplicity, it’s
popular – and, because of the simplicity, variations (and
quality) can fluctuate wildly.
Why chosen. Moto (owner of Mokihi) has assembled
a crack-team of cocktail crafters who all possess a wide
range of tricks up their cufflinked shirtsleeves. That
means inventive new libations and stone cold classics. Zoe
favours the less ostentatious drinks, so she recommends
us to try a Moscow Mule. She can’t resist a bit of flair,
though, as she shows us how to chisel a perfectly spherical
ice cube from a block the size of a Rubik’s Cube. Neat.
Secret ingredient. Has to be the homemade ginger
beer, which in true moonshine fashion is served out
of a comical makeshift vessel – in this instance a milk
carton. It’s made with ginger and bay leaves, fermenting
overnight with yeast to give it some fire. Which indeed it
has – a single shot tastes like a messy and vitriolic divorce
in liquid form.
Tasting notes. The Moscow Mule won’t win any
prizes for presentation but Mokihi’s has the taste
dialled. Spicy, sharp, refreshing and possessing a flagrant
disregard for international peacekeeping protocol (oh,
wait, that’s just Moscow.) WP
> Find the mokihi special moscow mule at mokihi (rmb65); 3/F, c12 lucky
street, chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳公园路好运街c12, 3层 (5867 0244)
JUNE 2014
53
EAT & DRINK « feature
qiu dao yu
What’s the
Japanese for Hutong?
Every customer in Qiu Dao Yu, a Japanese
yakitori establishment up Beiluoguxiang,
has a trendier haircut than us. And they’re
more than just hairstyles – they’re colorful
hairstyles, with angles and attitude. They sit
on top of rockers with tattoo sleeves and girls
carrying those deathtrap mini skateboards.
They suit Qiu Dao Yu, the walls of
which are lined with bizarre trinkets
and Instagram filter photos. It’s Chineseowned and it’s been here for a while, but
a new upstairs dining area, roof terrace
and soon-to-be-open teppanyaki room
warranted a visit. The management is also
opening a small whisky bar in adjoining
premises, where we hope we can sip on
Yamazaki 12 years with some Japanese
hutong businessmen hipsters, the rarest of all
the Gulou breeds.
They would start their night downstairs
at Qiu Dao Yu in a self-conscious state of
raucousness, tearing through some roasted
chicken wings (RMB10), before moving onto
something a bit less obvious, maybe the
roasted pacific saury (RMB22) or the blended
yatto with mashed yam (RMB12). (We’re not
sure what that is but it wouldn’t be cool to
ask.) They all work well as a selection of little
bites, a far eastern tapas of sorts, great for a
quick bite after a gig.
by w i l l p h i l i p p s
Next we’d get things a bit more heated
with some mustard octopus (RMB25), which,
to be frank, is ludicrously over wasabi-ed.
Eyes streaming, we’d demand some icecold draft Kirins but on our visit we receive
a dagger blow to the chest – no more draft
beer. (Perhaps the keg and tap is just another
decoration on Qiu Dao Yu’s wall?) We opt for
the bottled variety instead, which helps sooth
the effects of that peppery invertebrate.
Before we get completely sozzled on saké
we’d have a bit of room for seafood hotpot
(RMB128) and roast Ox tongue (RMB8), the
latter always more pleasant than it sounds.
Then it’s back upstairs to the whisky bar
where we’d get businessman-drunk while
contesting the merits of grain whisky over malt.
> daily midday-2pm 6pm-midnight; 70 beiluoguxiang,
Xicheng 西城区鼓楼东大街北锣鼓巷甲70号 (6407 8336)
The Fresh
Seafood Kitchen
Fresh off the Boat
Certain advantages come with being one of
the world’s few landlocked capital cities, like
safety from seafaring invaders. Access to good
seafood is not one of them.
But there’s a solution for that. Liu Yipeng
so missed the seafood from his hometown of
Qinhuangdao, a port city in Hebei province,
that he created a supply line to bring the best
fish, oysters, clams and crabs to Beijing every
morning. This was two years ago when he
opened The Fresh as a cozy neighborhood
restaurant. But it did so well that he parlayed
it into a bigger space, recently opened, next
to Winterless Hotel in the central business
district.
“We’re not here to compete,” said Liu, a
clean-cut boss who retains the youthful zest
cultivated during his former job as a salesman
for the fashion magazine Bazaar. “We want to
introduce new options for Beijing’s seafood
market.”
Liu’s partner is Alicia Shen, the company’s
54
JUNE 2014
CFO, an art history and Spanish double major
hired away from a corporate banking job
at Bank of China. Both are young, around
30, with big plans buoyed by both romantic
ideals and years of real-world experience.
With three investors who are also their age,
it’s no surprise that the food reflects their
creative vigor and cosmopolitan sensibilities.
The oysters are meant for slurping,
cooked with yellow rice wine to rinse out any
raw ocean flavor. The crab practically blinks.
And – for better or for worse, depending on
how you feel about these guys – the mantis
shrimps are plump and spikey. Of the fish
on the menu, only two aren’t from the sea:
the bighead carp, used for an enormous
fish-cheek and tofu dish slathered in mildly
spicy brown sauce, and the bass. Those who
require a meatier fare can try the sautéed and
braised hairtail.
Shen, who recently returned from a year’s
stay in Peru, admits Peruvian influence on
by a nt h o n y tao
The Fresh’s creations – the head chef used
to cook for the Peruvian and Uruguayan
embassies in Beijing – but is hesitant about
defining it as fusion. “We don’t like labels,”
she said. “We only care about the quality.”
> daily 10:30am-3am; 102, building a, winterless hotel
building, 1 Xi dawang lu, chaoyang 朝阳区西大望路1号温
特莱中心a座102号 (8557 0502)
restaurants » EAT & DRINK
woodstock
Peace, Love and American Sports
by O s c a r H o l l a n d
They say that if you can remember Woodstock, you weren’t really
there.
But applying this logic to the festival’s namesake poses something
of a dilemma for the humble food critic. We certainly recall visiting
Beijing’s latest American-style restaurant so perhaps we are
disqualified from passing judgement. But then maybe they should
have just made the Baileys coffee a bit stronger.
In any case, this is a facetious premise for a review; there are
plenty of people who both enjoyed and remember Woodstock.
They are now fat, bald and more comfortable on a sofa in front
of the baseball than on a crusty mattress in the back of a multicolored Volkswagen. So in all honesty, these waning pioneers
of counterculture won't be hugely worried about their festival’s
name being commandeered by an establishment dedicated to
mainstream American sports and meat. In fact, it’s probably
exactly what they want. And as if to further cement the ideological
decline of a generation, Woodstock is nestled in the bosom of Ritan
Park’s embassy district, a location that could only be more proestablishment if the kitchen doubled up as a Government ministry
canteen and served hongshaorou.
Within its unassuming façade, the walls are garnished with
framed basketball shirts, NFL flags and some not-so-nuanced images
of the US – think Manhattan street scenes, Elvis, Muhammad Ali and
(ahem) Bob Marley. The room at the entrance is fronted by large
windows and painted in amiable shades of brown, with two long
wooden tables each facing their own private screens. The layout
offers an appealing way to enjoy a sporting occasion of moderate
importance, should it attract enough friends to justify eschewing the
general public for (but more than you want in your living room, so
eight to twelve).
But like the bisected lives of those once free-spirited festivalgoers, the two sections of Woodstock are utterly distinct from one
another. At the restaurant’s rear lies a darker, leather-bound bar area
with a foosball table, a sizeable projector space and a reassuring
array of drinks. The patterned burgundy wallpaper is reminiscent of
an olde British pub restored in the 1960s, though that’s as close as we
get to the establishment’s eponymous event.
Again, it has all the assets of a sufficiently well-thought-out sports
bar. But what of the food?
Unsurprisingly, the menu is an all-American affair, featuring the
full-bodied but unspectacular Woodstock Burger (RMB85), with
egg, bacon, emmental cheese and a rather sad-looking single strip of
lettuce. The sauce on the recommended BBQ ribs (RMB118) lacks
excitement but the stack is relatively meaty. The various sides that
accompany the mains are disappointing however – the fries are too
crispy, the vegetables are too mushy and the hash browns fall apart at
the lightest of touches.
It simply cannot compete with the best of Beijing’s growing list
of US-style diners but Woodstock’s fare is filling enough. The service
is friendly and the place is worth a visit if you like to wile away an
afternoon watching people kicking or throwing balls competitively.
These are the very comforts now sought by people who were once
more concerned with finding enough acid to stay awake for Jimi
Hendrix’s 9am set. To be fair, those unable to make the transition are
probably all dead.
> daily 8am-midnight; 17 Xiushui Nanjie, Jianwai dajie, chaoyang 朝阳区建外大街秀水南
街17号 (6592 8788)
JUNE 2014
55
EAT & DRINK « restaurants
Lily’s American
Diner
A New LAD in Town
BY Ant h o n y Tao
It’s easy rooting for a place like Lily’s American Diner, which became
a neighborhood favorite in its original Shuangjing location thanks
to dedication and a great delivery service (minimum RMB30 only!).
You may also know the inspirational story of its owners, Lily Zhou,
a small-town Chinese girl who loves American food despite never
having been to the US, and Joe Zhou, her chef partner who specializes
in steak and eggs. Bolstered by success, they expanded to Sihui. Just
recently, they opened a third branch in Sanlitun.
But here’s an uncomfortable truth: it’s one thing to succeed when
you’re on the tip of subway lines, but quite another when you’re the
new kid on a competitive block. Sanlitun is replete with Western
dining options, though it’s not just the sheer number that matters:
it’s that the others have clear-cut specialties. We tend to choose
restaurants to satisfy specific cravings – for pulled-pork sandwiches,
or steak, or burritos – and for each of those items, to say nothing of a
dozen others, there are specific establishments that deliver.
How does Lily’s fit in? Indeed, it serves a passable pulled-pork,
steak and burrito – along with pasta, pizza, apple pie and all your
56
JUNE 2014
other American classics – but we think it’s safe to say no one will
seek them out for those dishes. They lack a signature and their prices,
while reasonable, aren’t quite attractive enough (Lily’s burger for
RMB45, garden salad for RMB35, jumbo breakfast for RMB59, Joe’s
ribeye for RMB119). What’s the draw?
Again, we want Lily’s to succeed. The staff is exceedingly polite;
when we called for directions, the server on the phone, unprompted,
walked out the door to wave to us. Like at its other branches, you
get to order off an iPad, which is neat. The Lily’s salad (RMB59) is
excellent and humongous, with bacon, avocado and chicken. The
milkshakes are sweet – too much for me, but it might suit some
palettes – and include a peanut butter option that could be brilliant
during the summer, especially if you dine outside. If Lily’s has retained
any of its reputed underdog spirit, it might make it yet. The odds,
however, are stacked against it.
> daily 10am-midnight; 1-037, building 5, shoukai bojun, courtyard 8 Xindong lu,
chaoyang 朝阳区新东路8号院首开铂郡小区底商5号楼1-037号 (6556 3817, delivery: 8418
5497 last delivery 11:30pm)
restaurants » EAT & DRINK
Karaiya
Spice
House
Canned Heat
by w i l l p h i l i p p s
Little Italy, Big Shunyi
by k i m b e r ly h e t h e r i n g to n
Authenticity is not a word too commonly associated with Shunyi. Located beyond the north
eastern Fourth Ring Road, the district is a sort of sprawling, movie-set approximation of
the American suburban fantasy, beloved by multi-national executives and petty tycoons.
With its McMansions and tennis clubs, it can seem a strange, almost unreal place to firsttime visitors – as if entering through a tear in the space-time continuum and winding up in
Breaking Bad country, minus the meth heads.
But here’s the thing, hating on Shunyi is really just a form of reverse cultural snobbery.
Sure, living in a gated compound with your own pool is not your typical China experience.
But then nor is sipping a latte in Gulou. China is many things to many people, and that
friends, is the beauty of it.
Take Italian restaurant Loft Eatalicious, for example. This newly opened cozy Shunyi
eatery wouldn’t seem out of place in Tai Koo Li. Built on a commitment to high-quality
ingredients, it’s one of a new wave of fine Shunyi restaurants challenging the area’s
reliance on over-priced import chains.
“Good, top-quality food is a hard thing to find in Beijing,” says Italian master chef
Roberto Masili, formerly of Bantu and L’Isola (both now defunct). “Restaurant owners only
care about money, they don’t care about producing quality food.” As if to prove the point,
Masili’s restaurant has a window that looks straight into the kitchen, allowing customers
to watch as the chefs prepare their meals.
We decided not to be too daring during our trip and start the order with what else,
but pizza (it’s an Italian joint, after all). The dough was delicious – soft, lightly salted and
topped with prosciutto, arugula, tomatoes and thinly sliced cheese. Although coming in at a
reasonably pricey RMB85, the pizza scored high on taste. Quality, we are reminded, doesn’t
always come cheap.
We followed this with the Australian spicy sausage (RMB85). A highlight of our meal,
the dish managed to mix just the right amount of spice and rich flavor – a sure hit with any
meat eater. Not wanting to neglect our veggies, we finished up with a salad consisting of
baked asparagus and a layer of parmesan cheese (RMB56). While the dish was wholesome
and fresh, it was pretty basic and could have perhaps done with additional garnish.
Overall, given the number of similarly priced, quality Italian restaurants in downtown
Beijing, it’s unlikely people will make the journey to Loft Eatalicious from outside of
Shunyi, which is shame, because like Shunyi itself, this place deserves a visit.
> mon-Thu 10am-10pm, Fri-sun 8:30am-10:30pm; No 710, pinnacle plaza, Tian Zhu, shunyi 顺义区天竺荣祥广场710
号 (8046 1565)
> daily 11:30am-2pm, 5:30-10pm; 3/F, sanlitun Taikoo li
south, chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯太古里19号院南区三层
s9-30 (6415 3535)
Loft
Eatalicious
When we were still fresh-off-the-boat
China novices, spice was painful. Going to
somewhere called a “spice house” – as is
Karaiya – was like going to the dentist: a
palpable fear of imminent discomfort about
to take hold of your mouth. But that was
then, and this is now – and now we salivate
at the thought of going to Karaiya Spice
House, where we’ll consume vast amounts of
it’s fiery Hunan cuisine like it was going out
of fashion.
The restaurant has recently moved to
a new location in Tai Koo Li South, where
it has taken over from a spa and perhaps
inadvertently retained much of the tranquil
feel. (Although there are parallels between
the two: the masochistic pleasure derived
from a pummeling massage can also be
derived from a plate of its spicy marinated
pork ribs, RMB158.)
The Hunan fare is as brilliant as it was
before, and we dive headfirst into the biggest
bowls of chili we can find (not literally of
course). They come in the shape of the dry
roasted duck with a dozen spices (RMB98,
our italics) and stir fried bullfrog with shiso
leaves and ginger (RMB58). The menu
indicates a collective spice rating of precisely
10 chili peppers, which results in heavy
perspiration and immense satisfaction.
The afterglow from eating so much spice is
almost therapeutic. (But be prepared for the
oiliness of Hunan food.) Some peanut milk
(RMB12) provides the proverbial ice pack
for the tongue while dishes like boiled eggs
sliced and fried (RMB48) offer something
cooler.
JUNE 2014
57
Café
Zarah
WIFI Signal Restored
by s t e p h e n g e o r g e
It’s impossible to imagine now, but there was
a time – way, way back, sometime before the
Olympics – when WIFI was unavailable in
Gulou. There were routers and dial ups, sure.
But no signal. Not even one bar. Nothing.
During this dark, barren period, young
people were forced to work in regular office
environments (the horror!), while the area’s
businesses – though few in number – thrived
(okay, survived) thanks to a ready stream of
customers willing to buy more than just a 25
kuai flat white during an eight-hour stay.
And then came Café Zarah, and lo! A new
era was born.
Drawn by the free WIFI – like moths to
a beacon (or some other hackneyed simile)
– young people with white plastic MacBooks
(this was 2008) descended en masse. PreInstagram Instagram-style pictures of ‘ethnic’
children were hung from the wall. The sound
of typing filled the air. Everyone bought at
least one flat white during an eight-hour stay.
Soon enough, similarly styled coffee
shops appeared throughout the area and for
several years Zarah flourished, and then, at
the very height of its popularity, it closed.
Well, now it’s open again, and it’s even
bigger. But is it better? The answer depends
on whether you like sunlight – but seeing
as most people do, we’re going to say yes.
The all new Café Zarah 2.0 maintains its
original minimalist, laptop friendly setup
while almost doubling its capacity. There’s
a new spacious backyard, more seating, and
a large second floor open air terrace. Coffee
prices had yet to finalized when we visited,
but we’ve been advised to expect a slight tax
hike on the flat whites. Free WIFI is available
throughout.
> daily 9am-midnight (food till 5pm); 42 gulou dong
dajie, Xicheng 西城区鼓楼东大街42号 (8403 9807)
58
JUNE 2014
melo
LOUNGE
It’s a Bar – Relax
by M a r i a nn a C e r i n i
Melo looks like it should belong to the gaudy ends around Gongti, where GT-Banana-Latte (or
whatever it’s called) and its surrounding jamboree of glitzy establishments lure in rich kids
with unfulfilled promises of grandeur. Instead, it is located in family-oriented Lido, right next
to pizza joint Tube Station.
The name itself is somewhat confusing. What exactly are the owners getting at with ‘Melo’?
Is it supposed to be ‘mellow’ spelled wrong? Or a reference to ‘Merlot’? Or patois slang to
express some sort of disheartening feeling – ‘Me Low,’ perhaps? No one really knows. [ED: we
later find out it’s an acronym for ‘Mild. Elegance. Lazy. Original.’]
Luckily, more thought has gone into the décor, which looks like the set of a 60s James Bond
movie. Leather fixtures, dim lights and dark wood tables set a serious, trying-to-be-sleek tone,
further emphasized by overly-eager staff wearing perfectly pressed black-and-white uniforms.
Outside, human-sized birdcages kitted out with sofas and low tables make for some impressive
private seating.
From Tuesday to Saturday, a jazz and blues band sets up at the back, adding to that extra
ritzy, private club vibe. It all feels very dressed up. The aim, no doubt, is to impress nouveau
riche chaps in shirts by Ermenegildo Zegna and gals in Manolos.
So on to Melo’s more successful characteristics. Defining itself as a champagne and
whiskey lounge, its selection of both is certainly impressive. Single and double malts, Japanese
ryes and American bourbons reign over the menu; served both by the glass (from RMB60)
and by the bottle (from RMB800 for a Glenmorangie Original to RMB3,800 for a 12-year-old
Springbank).
Champagne packages – that’s a thing, don’t ya know? – are also one of Melo’s biggest
draws. Inclusive of anywhere between six and twelve bottles of bubbly – Moët & Chandon
and Dom Pérignon – for RMB4,300-8,500, these bourgeois multi-buy deals are set to cater to
the expensive tastes of all those Lamborghini owners you may have spotted at the lounge’s
opening party last month.
But if, like us, you’re of more modest background, stick to the signature cocktails, like the
Melo Passion Martini or the Gin Garden (both RMB65). From the fun to the seriously boozy,
they offer consoling alternatives to spending obscene amounts of money on things that don’t
matter.
> daily 1:30pm-3am, building 6 Fangyuan Xi lu, chaoyang 朝阳区芳园西路6号院1号楼 (5643 6798)
EAT & DRINK « feature
bars » EAT & DRINK
Jazz
Graden (sic)
Offbeat Eden
by W i l l P h i l i p p s
Miami has a south beach, Hong Kong has a harbor, even Shanghai,
we are loath to admit, has a bund. Beijing on the other hand, has a
spider’s web of concentric ring roads. When it comes to sophisticated
nightlife, Beijing drew the short straw. There’s just not much to build
along or around in this city. Or so we thought.
We’re not sure when it happened exactly – or what prompted it –
but Xindong Lu has quietly transformed itself into Beijing’s answer to
the Champs Élysée. Well, sort of.
Long home to stagnant Irish bar the James Joyce, the unassuming
Gongti-to-Dongzhimen connect only really kicked off after Heaven
Supermarket arrived last summer, the success of which attracted a
host of smaller, no less plucky imitators. The result: an entire strip. Or
what we like to call, the ‘Xindong Riveria [sic].’
Pick of the bunch is Jazz Graden [sic]. Nestled between a decaying
apartment block and an express tailoring service, the lively al fresco
bar (essentially just a fridge on the street, with a few chairs and
a neon sign) offers drinkers two choices depending on budget:
Erdinger, RMB15, everything else, RMB10. Snacks come in the form of
the ma la tang parasite roulette.
It isn’t exactly a graden, per se – nor could you argue it’s really a
bar. The beers aren’t chilled to a degree we would have liked – let’s
be charitable and call them ‘lukewarm,’ but considering they came
from a fridge that sleeps rough on the street at night while chained
to a nearby wall, we’re not going to complain. Besides, it has an
unpretentious charm and takes minimalist decor to bold new levels.
There isn’t any music – which is strange, given that this bar has “jazz”
in its name. Maybe it’s playing John Cage’s ‘4’33”’ on repeat?
But Jazz Graden is not called Jazz Graden because it plays jazz
– Jazz Graden is called Jazz Graden because it is jazz. It’s a rejection
of the mainstream. It’s not bound by rules, like having a license or
a PR team or a front door. It’s improvised, using electrical boxes for
makeshift sign holders and trees for urinals. It’s free form. It has no
walls. Saying that you love it often results in people giving you strange
looks. It might not be on the fabled boulevard we’d wished for, but
off-the-cuff places like Jazz Graden define Beijing’s unique bootleg
drinking scene. Whether or not it will actually make it though the
summer is anyone’s guess.
> daily afternoon-late; nr. heaven supermarket, Xindong lu, chaoyang 朝阳区新东路天
堂超市附近 (no tel.)
JUNE 2014
59
COMMUNITY
COMMUNITY « tiger father
pre-natal natural?
Er, not Exactly...
BY T R E VO R M A R S H A L L S E A
“It was noticed that the newborn baby dolls bore a very
lifelike resemblance to… me. Everyone stood around
laughing and pointing at me.”
A lot of people always ask me: “O, Tiger
Father: How is it that you know everything
there is to know about parenting, and not
only that but you apply it all so faultlessly
and effortlessly? Huh? How?”
I usually reply with two answers: 1. “Well
you’re not wrong there, otherwise surely they
wouldn’t pay me good money to write a parenting column.” And 2: “A two-weekend course in
Sydney in 2005.”
I was led to remember our crash prenatal course recently, when I had one of ‘those’
parenting moments upon contemplating how
tall our eight-year-old daughter had become.
You know those moments? When you could
swear your child was born between 10 and 15
minutes ago, yet here she is shooting baskets
and being longer than her bed? The moments
where you feel like you’re holding onto life like
a moth holding onto a windshield?
Living in China, where everything’s in
Chinese, certainly doesn’t help that cork-onthe-ocean feeling. Nor do kids growing up like
those fast-motion plants on Discovery channel
It seemed like yesterday we were in our
pre-natal classes.
There, they try to prepare you for parenthood, but really, what hope do they have? Apart
from the guarantee that its actual starting point
will be filled with much wailing and gnashing
of teeth, it’s a hard thing to prepare someone
for.
I thought I’d lucked out by propagating
the species with a doctor. Not only that, one
with vast experience of children and maternity
wards (even if you’re not technically allowed
to call her a “pediatrician”). Like most doctors,
however, you can call her a “goody two shoes.”
So when I declared my approach to parenting
would be to “just ask her,” she rejected it and
made me attend pre-natal classes.
60
JUNE 2014
As I will always remind my kids, I gave
up two whole Saturdays – better known in
Australia as “Horse Racing and Footy Days” – to
sit with other bright-eyed, nervously tittering
expecting couples. This was proof of my selfless approach to parenthood, if not more noble
than bearing the child itself. Turned out I was
forced to listen as well.
The classes were held by one of those
serene middle-aged midwives who insist everything will be just beautiful. In this way, she
completely missed the mood of those rotund
women in the room and their unsure men –
which was more one of teeth being gritted to a
soundtrack of “Ohmygodohmygod.”
The teacher correctly told us that people
never stop worrying about their kids, and
that they would cost a bit of money. I’m still
chagrined, however, that she chose not to mention a few things. Like how in a few years time
we’d be sifting through our daughter’s poop to
look for a swallowed coin, or feeling around in
a slimy, smelly bit of pipe for a tooth thrown
down the sink.
I do remember a couple of things, like
when the Earth Mother brought out some lifelike newborn baby dolls. These we were supposed to use to practice holding, putting on diapers, and swaddling. It all fell apart, however,
when it was noticed that at 8am on a Saturday
they bore a very lifelike resemblance to… me.
They had bald, round heads and big bags under
their eyes. Everyone stood around laughing
and pointing at me. It was great.
At one stage we men were segregated from
the round people and told our chief role – now
we’d mastered fertilization — would be staying
calm. This didn’t help one friend who, in his big
moment, saw blood, passed out, fell down and
dragged his wife’s bed dramatically sideways.
She still calls him her rock.
We men were put into groups and given
a task: what to do if our wife went into labor
whilst not in a hospital, and we had to deliver
the baby? Our group thought we’d covered it
consummately, especially my suggestion on
pain relief. This was A) gleaned from a western
movie and B) based on the laboring woman
biting down hard on my leather belt. When
the answers were read everyone stood around
laughing and pointing at me, like, as if my belt
wouldn’t dull the pain.
I was almost sick of the whole thing when
the Hippy Woman up front asked us all to write
down our biggest fears about childbirth. This
was supposed to be protected by anonymity.
And it was. Until my answer was read out.
“Oh who wrote that?!” said the Touchy
Feely One. I was bewildered. Everyone had
written down namby-pamby things like “I’ll
be in lots of pain,” or “The wrong Mozart will
be playing.” For me, there was one clear worst
case scenario – the scenario in which “mother
and baby die.”
Now this cast a bit of a pall over the group.
Everyone stared at me, but nobody laughed.
I defended myself, saying, “What could be a
bigger fear than that?” and “Forewarned is
forearmed!” I was told I had the wrong attitude
to parenthood.
I’ve heard that a lot ever since, come to
think of it.
Still, I’d recommend pre-natal classes, if
you can find them in China. At the very least it’s
good to surround yourself with other future
parents as clueless as you.
> Trevor Marshallsea was a foreign correspondent in
Beijing in the 1990s and returned a decade later. This
time around he stays at home to grow the kids. Read
more of his domestic adventures at www.thetigerfather.com.
introducing
urban family
By K imberly H etheri n g to n
That’s Beijing has finally given birth to its
very own family magazine, Urban Family.
In a world of family-related magazines,
you might ask: “why bother?” Well, firstly,
this magazine differs in that it’s entirely online, meaning it’s accessible anywhere, anytime. No more old news and past events, no
more wasting paper and killing trees. Urban
Family will be the up-to-date, go-to website
for all family, schools, health, community
and sporting events and information.
As a dip-kid, I understand the ins and
outs of living abroad. I’ve done it all my life.
I am Canadian, born in North Vancouver,
but when people ask me where I grew up I
hesitate. Thinking to myself ‘hmm… should I
give the short answer or long answer?’
Here’s the short answer: I grew up in
different places but I was born in Vancouver.
The long answer is: I grew up in Pakistan,
Egypt, Ghana, Ukraine, Jamaica and now
China. Although I was born in Canada I
don’t feel very Canadian. I can’t handle cold
weather, I dislike poutine and I’m not a fan
of hockey (a shot to the heart to all Canadians, sorry!). I’m actually a bit Jamaican in
disguise. I have no concept of home anymore
– those I love and have loved are scattered
all over the world. I understand the hardships that come along with being an expat–
adjusting to new cultures and countries,
being away from loved ones and living far
outside of your comfort zone. It is challenging, but such is life for everyone.
If you’d asked me about my expat upbringing a couple years ago I would’ve
given a very different answer. Growing up
in foreign countries made me stick out. I
was different and just wanted to be like
my cousins living a cushy existence back in
North Vancouver, where they got to enjoy
Christmases together with all my family,
celebrate birthdays on the right date, have
all the same friends since elementary school
and, of course, speak the language. I focused
so much on “missing out,” without real-
izing how much was happening right there
in front of me. Foolishly taking so much for
granted, I now realize how lucky I have been
to have made friends with people all over
the world, to have been forced outside of
my comfort zone and to have seen all that I
have.
Now I have been given the chance to
oversee the launch of a new magazine. Not
just any magazine, the Urban Family magazine. That’s what I love most about Beijing,
it’s brimming with opportunities, and exciting new challenges. We want parents (and
their kids) to realize just how much there is
to be gained living in this home away from
home, so join me, and everyone here at Urban Family, as we help you get the most out
what Beijing has to offer.
> Urban Family will launch later this month, follow us
on WeChat for details.
BODHI THERAPY
Spa Favorite Gets a Facelift
Any Beijing spa-goer worth their bath salts knows Bodhi Therapeutic Retreat as a longstanding urban retreat that never fails to
deliver when it comes to working out kinks and knots. The spa was
already one of our favorite hidden retreats in the city and, after
undergoing renovation, we’re pleased to confirm that we like it
even more.
Conveniently located in a quaint six-story building opposite the
north entrance of the Workers’ Stadium, the spa is now in its tenth
year. Casually rising above the the glitzy-beyond-belief vibe that
dominates this part of the capital, the Southeast Asian-style spa offers a safe, laidback feel that could not feel further from a night out
in Gongti.
Upon walking in, a serene mosaic of dim lights and earthy
colors immediately whisk you away from life in the Big Smog.
Bodhi offers a solid range of aromatherapy, Ayurvedic, Thai- and
Chinese-style massages, as well as foot reflexology and a wide
selection of facial treatments. Attention to detail is paramount,
and that’s not just with the treatments. If you’re prone to feeling
peckish as you get preened and pampered, the spa also provides
fresh fruit juices and snacks (hello peanut butter French toast) at
pretty affordable prices.
We opt for a classic aromatherapy massage (RMB328 for
60mins), which involves being slathered in heavenly essential oils
from Thailand and being gently massaged all over from scalp to
toes. Using long palm strokes, our masseuse applies just the right
amount of pressure to our sorest spots, creating a feeling of suppleness and warmth.
Besides being incredibly relaxing – we doze off halfway
through the treatment – the massage also works on improving
circulation, meaning that by the end, not only do you feel at peace
with the world but also as refreshed as a baby after a nap. Ultrasoothing. MGB
> 17 gongti Bei Lu, (opposite the Workers’ Stadium), Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路17号
(工人体育场北门对面)(6417 9595, www.bodhi.com.cn)
JUNE 2014
61
Pick of six art exhibitions
Start Ups: Olga Georgieva, Peng
Yong, Tan Tian, Wang Bo, Wu
Lichang, Xie Yuning
Peter Bogers: Scanning CaochangdiCaochangdi Scanning
May 10-Jun 15, C-Space, Red No.1-C1&C2, Caochangdi, Chaoyang
C空间朝阳区机场辅路草场地红一号院C1&C2座 (5127 3248)
May 25-Jun 25, Matthias Küper Galleries, 293-4
Airport Service Road,Caochangdi, Chaoyang
库帛H画廊朝阳区草场地机场辅路249 3号 (6432 5560)
Hans van Dijk and Ai Weiwei in
CAAW, Caochangdi, 2001
Hans van Dijk:
5000 Names
Work by Tan Tian
May 24-Aug 8, Ullens
Center for Contemporary
Art, 798 Art District, 4
Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang
尤伦斯当代艺术中心朝阳
区酒仙桥路4号798艺术区
(5780 0200)
Tobias Rehberger
May 3-Jul 6, Galerie Urs Meile Beijing, 104 Caochangdi, Chaoyang
麦勒画廊朝阳区草场地104号 (6433 3393)
Wu Yi: A Careless Excursion
Jun 1-Jul 6, Hive Center for Contemporary Art, E06, 798 Art District, 4
Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang
蜂巢艺术中心朝阳区酒仙桥路4号798艺术区E06 (5978 9530)
Zhao Zhao:
Uncertainty
May 24-Jul 6, Chambers
Fine Art, Red No.1-D,
Caochangdi, Chaoyang
前波画廊朝阳区草场地红一
号D座 (5127 3298)
62
JUNE 2014
Events
MAY 31-JUN 2
Events are editors’ picks of the best activities and are not comprehensive. To list an
event, email bjevents@urbanatomy.com.
For some details, see Listings.
a holistic writing model will be used to
help writers of all abilities find a unique
voices and garner the skills and courage
needed to go forward with their writing.
> Free (please email thosewhowriteonwalls@gmail.com to register); 6.30pm;
The Bookworm (see listings for more
details)
eat / drink
EAT/DRINK
Dragon Boat Festival Long Weekend
Brunch
Long weekends are made for long
brunches and enjoying some of Beijing’s
finest views. So whether you dine al fresco on the terrace or inside the gorgeous
dining room, Capital M’s chef Gary has
all of your brunch favorites from Bloody
Marys to benedictines, flapjacks and
fry-ups.
> RMB248 for two courses, including
a cocktail and limitless tea or coffee,
RMB288 for three courses, including a
cocktail and limitless tea or coffee; from
11.30am; Capital M. (6702 2727, reservations@capital-m-beijing.com, see listings
for details)
JUN 4-17
EAT/DRINK
Food promotion: A Taste of Taiwan
Kerry Hotel, Beijing bring you an enticing variety of authentic Taiwanese dishes
at both Kerry’s Kitchen and its Horizon
Chinese Restaurant. For two weeks only,
Executive Sous Chef Elvis Chen from
Taipei and Tainan’s Junior Sous Chef
Max Wang will showcase their signature
Taiwanese delicacies. All guests dining
during the promotion period are eligible
to enter the lucky draw with a grand
prize of a trip for two to Taipei.
> RMB258+ per person; Kerry’s Kitchen,
Kerry Hotel, 1 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang
朝阳区光华路1号豪里酒店 ( 8565 2188)
and Horizon Chinese Restaurant (see listings for details)
JUN 1
NIGHTLIFE
Party: Migas Poolside Brunch
Migas gets ready for Dragon Boat
Festival with a brunch featuring paella,
fresh salads and homemade sausages,
all to be washed it down with some
sumptuous drink specials.
> RMB180; 10pm-late; The Bar at Migas
(see listings for details)
JUN 6
NIGHTLIFE
Gig: Eluveitie
Exotic folk metal band Eluveitie is back
in Beijing with music based on the stylings of Helvatia, a branch of Celts in
what is now modern-day Switzerland. Or
so we’re told.
> RMB380 (presale), RMB480 (door),
RMB680 (VIP with autographs and photos); 8pm; Mao Livehouse (see listings
for details)
Gig: Aborted
Expect Aborted to mix grindcore with
death metal music in their first ever
show in Beijing. We have been instructed by the gig’s organizers to “be shocked
by their style of brutal death.” More
wholesome fun at Mao Livehouse.
> RMB180 (presale), RMB280 (door),
RMB580 (VIP with autographs and photos); 8pm; Mao Livehouse (see listings
for details)
COMMUNITY
Workshop: Aquaponics
Learn how to build your very own
aquaponic environment – a symbiotic
ecosystem in which you can care for and
grow your own plants and animals. This
microcosm of the ecological cycle can
also provide a opportunity for children
to learn about biology and environmental science.
> RMB300 (includes supplies); midday2pm; The Bookworm (order@beijingbookworm.com, see listings for details)
JUN 1-2
EAT/DRINK
Rice Dumplings at Qi
Celebrate health and harvest during
Dragon Boat Festival with some of Qi’s
“Harmony” rice dumplings made from
nutritious cereals and flavors from both
the north and south of China.
> RMB388 for gift package with 8
pieces, 100g/piece; Qi restaurant at The
Ritz-Carlton Beijing, Financial Street, 1
Jinchengfang Dongjie, Xicheng District
西城区金城坊东街1号 (6629 6999,
rc.bjsfs.qi@ritzcarlton.com)
JUN 3 & 13
COMMUNITY
Workshop: A writing Collective for
Emerging Writers
Every writer deserves a safe environment in which to experiment, learn
and develop their craft. The Bookworm
may be that very place. This month as
NIGHTLIFE
ALL MONTH
A night's stay at The
St. Regis, Tianjin,
including breakfast
& two tix to its
summer party (see
below)
New chef Frank Koppelkamm at
the Riviera, St. Regis Tianjin
The Riviera restaurant on the banks of Tianjin’s Hai River at the St. Regis hotel has
been attracting a steady stream of diners since opening a few years ago – and
now it has attracted a new executive chef: Frank Koppelkamm. The award winning German chef is quite the catch, with over 25 years of experience in some of
world’s top hotels. He hopes to bring some panache to the plates of the Riviera,
but also a touch of familiarity, favoring homemade creations and good, honest
ingredients. The Riviera is art nouveau inspired, bringing the feel of modern
Parisian brasserie to Tianjin, with Frank’s dishes branching out into some exciting
Mediterranean-influenced flavors.
On June 14 at 12pm The River Lounge bar, just outside the Riviera’s back
door is hosting a beach party by the river. For RMB358 you can enjoy free flow
drink (including draught beer and some tropical creations), which might give you
the confidence to take to the dance floor and try some salsa, merengue or samba
dancing (or leave it to the pros), then fill up on BBQ food, and let the kids hang
out in the kids corner, or destroy them at beach volleyball, also on offer. Dress
code is summer breeze.
> Win! For a chance to win a one night stay at the St. Regis (including breakfast)
and two tickets to the beach party as listed above email “beach party” to bjeditor@urbanatomy.com
> Riviera Restaurant St. Regis, Tianjin is open daily from 11.30am-2.30pm, 5.30pm10pm, 158 Zhangzizhong Lu, Heping, Tianjin 天津市和平区张自忠路158号 (022
5930 9962, www.starwoodhotels.com)
Gig: Yang Bing and Friends
Veteran DJ Yang Bing (Haze, White
Rabbit) hosts a night at Dada. House,
Techno and everything in between. So
that means some tech-house as well.
> Free; 9pm; Dada (see listing for details)
COMMUNITY
Film: Murmullos de Julio Estrada
A Mexican documentary about the musical creator Julio Estrada, who took audiences to the intimate world of Whispers
of the Desert, an opera based on the
novel Pedro Páramo.
> Free; 7pm; Instituto Cervantes in
Beijing, A1 Gongtinanlu, Chaoyang
District朝阳区工体南路A1.
JUN 6-7
NIGHTLIFE
Music: Mushroom Festival 2014
Rock, punk, electronica and ballads. Not
sure that last one fits but we’re reliably
informed that its the case. Regardless,
everything featuring at Mushroom
Festival 2014 revolves around Chinese
independent music
> RMB120 (door), RMB100 (presale);
9pm; Yugong Yishan (see listing for
details)
JUN 7
NIGHTLIFE
Gig: Funk Fever
JUNE 2014
63
Events
Funk Fever returns with its signature
brand of bump. Bringing fresh jams and
remixes alongside classic funk, disco and
old-school hip hop, expect to put the
thump in your rumps, some glide in your
slide and a dip in your hips. Spread the
word, spread the funk.
> RMB50; 10pm (till late); The Bar at
Migas (see listings for details)
eat / drink
Music: Basically Beethoven
The Bookworm hosts Beijing’s only classical music open-mic night. Get involved
yourself or simply bask in the glory of
some of Beijing’s best international classical musicians.
> Free; 7.30pm; The Bookworm (see listings for details)
JUN 8
NIGHTLIFE
Gig: Die Sterne
The Goethe-Institut China invites you
to a concert by German rockers Die
Sterne, known for smart lyrics and injecting influences as diverse as punk and
experimental pop. Don’t forget your
dancing shoes and get ready to move to
an unusual blend of indie-rock, groove
and funk.
> Free with tickets from Yugong Yishan
and Goethe-Institut China ahead of the
event; 8pm; Yugong Yishan (see listings
for details)
COMMUNITY
Walk: Boxer Rebellion Walking Tour:
Under Siege
Hear the incredible story of the summer of 1900, when 4,000 foreigners
and Chinese lived under siege from
radical mystic rebels for 55 days. Beijing
Postcards leads us into the old Legation
Quarter and tells stories of the bombing
of the French Embassy, the wavering
Qing Court and how 200,000 bullets
flew into the sky without finding a single
target. The tour ends at Capital M with a
well-deserved cocktail.
> RMB 150, includes walk & cocktail;
starting point TBC; (6702 2727, reservations@capital-m-beijing.com)
JUN 9
JUN 13
NIGHTLIFE
DJ: Valentino Kanzyani [Cadenza
Records]
As a highly-skilled and widely-acclaimed
performer, Valentino Kanzyani’s rise to
prominence as the founding father of
the Slovenian techno scene dates back
to the mid-1990s. See the legend continue in Migas.
> RMB70; 10pm till late; The Bar at Migas
June 6-7
THIRD ANNUAL BEIJING
CRAFT BEER FESTIVAL
Beijing’s craft beer revolution appears to be a continuous one. We have some figures to prove it. The first Beijing Craft Beer Festival attracted over 700 people and
last year there were over 5000. Using this same percentage increase (and some
back-of-a-cigarette-box mathematics) this means that there will be 30,714 beer
fans in attendance at the third edition.
The good folk at Great Leap Brewing have modestly said they’re expecting
“over 5000.” Be one of them. It’s free and there will be beers from Beijing stalwarts
like Jing A and Slowboat, as well as tipples by visiting breweries from as far afield
as Chengdu and Taiwan.
Early-birds should note the recent change of address. Still a SOHO, just Galaxy
rather than Wangjing.
> Free; Fri 5-11pm, Sat midday-11pm; Galaxy SOHO, 7A Xiaopaifang Hutong,
Dongcheng 小牌坊胡同甲7号 (www.greatleapbrewing.com)
COMMUNITY
NIGHTLIFE
Film: The Saddest Music in the World
(dir. Guy Maddin, 2003)
Dada screens a musical (of sorts) set in
Winnipeg during the Great Depression,
where a beer baroness organizes a
contest to find the saddest music in the
world. Musicians from around the world
descend on the city to try and win the
$25,000 prize.
> Free entry; bar from 8pm, screening
from 9pm; Dada (see listings for details)
JUN 10
Talk: Chinese Shadow Puppetry
Dr. Richard Hardiman, who has lived
and worked in China for over 25 years,
has been fascinated in Chinese Shadow
Puppertry for almost three decades. He
will introduce the origins, history and
schools of shadow puppetry, as well as
discussing the craftsmen, characters,
symbolism and performances associated
with the art form.
> RMB50, RMB40 for members; 7.30pm;
The Bookworm (see listings for details)
64
JUNE 2014
Gig: Long Shen Dao Reggae Party
Long Shen Dao are out to prove that
they are China’s first and only authentic
reggae crew. Only one way to find out.
> Price TBC; 9pm; Yugong Yishan (buy.
modernsky.com, 5876 0181, see listings
for details)
JUN 14
NIGHTLIFE
Gig: Hot Chip
With five hit studio albums under their
belts and countless awards, British electronic royalty Hot Chip come to Migas.
Not to be missed.
> RMB80 (presale); RMB120 (door), both
with one Heineken beer; 10pm till late;
The Bar at Migas (see listings for details)
JUN 15
Networking: Green Drinks
Join Beijing’s green community for informal drinks at its monthly meet-and-greet
for those interested in environmental,
social and development issues in China.
This month, Green Drinks welcomes
back Calvin Quek from Greenpeace
to discuss the progress implementing
China’s air pollution plan.
> Free; 7.30pm; The Bookworm (see listings for details)
JUN 11
Gig: Magic Touch (Los Angeles, 100%
Silk)
Hot off the back of the acclaimed album
“Palermo House Gang”, LA’s EDM pioneer
Magic Touch, is heading back to Beijing.
> RMB50; 9pm; Dada (see listings for
details)
Gig: New School
A festival featuring a range of brand new
acts including Life Test, Larry’s Pizza,
Lifetest, 9596, Recycle Link and Caffeine.
Fried chicken available all night.
> RMB80 (presale), RMB100 (door); 7pm;
Mao Livehouse (see listings for details)
COMMUNITY
COMMUNITY
JUN 12
COMMUNITY
COMMUNITY
Comedy: Ari Shaffir
The Bookworm’s Humor Section presents
Ari Shaffir, best known for his popular
podcast “Ari Shaffir’s Skeptic Tank.” He
is also the star and creator of the web
series “The Amazing Racist” and “This Is
Not Happening.”
> RMB150 (presale), RMB180 (door);
8pm; The Bookworm (see listings for
details).
JUNE 13
RELEASE
Sure, we’re all disappointed that INTRO festival suffered a last minute cancellation
but the summer is young and there’s dancing to be had. So step up RELEASE to
fulfil all of your electronic music needs. After taking over UCCA in December last
year, the event will take place across all three floors of Tango and will feature international acts like Vato Gonzalez and Outsiders alongside local heroes including BB
Deng, Oshi and Lantern boss DJ Weng Weng. In addition to a full night (and morning) of music, there will other on-stage entertainment, lasers, video shows and
more. Tickets can be found online and all around town.
> Early bird RMB100, presale RMB150, on-the-door RMB260, VIP RMB320; 9pm4am; Tango, 79 Hepingli Xijie, Dongcheng 东城区和平里西街79号(www.modernartentertainment.com)
Talk: Our Food, the Big Issues
Experts will discuss the food issues that
affect us all: food security and insecurity,
food safety and regulations, agriculture,
nutrition/malnutrition and world hunger
in a time of abundance.
> RMB75 (includes a drink); 5pm; Capital
M. (see listings for details)
Film: King Ubu (Ubu król) (dir. Piotr
Szulkin, 2003)
Set in the fictional country of Foland, a
drunken scoundrel named Ubu exploits
the nation’s beer shortage to overthrow
the monarchy and announce democracy
for all. However, with freedom does not
prevail. As Ubu rigs the game, a grand
Events
farce skewers democracy on the other
side of the Iron Curtain. Polish with
English subs.
> Free entry; bar opens at 8pm, screenings start at 9pm; Dada (see listings for
details)
Art
NIGHTLIFE
ARTS
Gig: I Am Your Father.
Celebrate Father’s day with a special gig
featuring rock, punk, metal and pop.
> RMB60 (presale), RMB80 (door); 8.3011.30pm; Mao Livehouse (see listings
for details)
Music: Hutong Yellow Weasels
China’s only old-time American music
and barn dance band, Hutong Yellow
Weasels, bring some lively, toe-tapping
square dance music to Capital M for Fete
de la Musique.
> Free; 12pm; Capital M. (see listings for
details)
JUN 17
COMMUNITY
Music: String Quartet by Wisemann
Ensemble
The Capital String Quartet, Capital M’s
regular chamber music ensemble, performs an all-new French program with
the Wisemann Brass Ensemble, Asia’s
first-ever professional brass ensemble.
> Free; 5pm; Capital M. (see listings for
details)
Networking: INN Coffee Morning
Join friends, new and old, at the INN
(International Newcomers Network)
monthly coffee morning meet-and-greet.
Exchange tips on being a newbie to the
city and get the best advice from old
Beijing hands.
> Free; 10am; The Bookworm (see listings for details)
JUN 18
NIGHTLIFE
Gig: Flamenco Duo
Oscar Guzmán (guitar) and Javier
Allende (vocals) started their collaboration two years ago when they were invited to perform in Dubai and Abu Dhabi.
They have since collaborated on several
projects as a blossoming international
musical duo.
> RMB85; 7.30pm; The Bookworm (see
listings for details)
JUN 19
COMMUNITY
June 5
NIGHTLIFE
Exhibition: Kind of
Light – Affordable Art
Photography Sale
Game: Mashup Beer Pong Who doesn’t love drinking games?
Come join the fun with Mashup’s monthly beer pong tournament and be in with
the chance to win some awesome prizes.
> RMB100 per team, register www.
mashupsports.com, 6.30pm; Kokomo,
fourth floor, Tongli Studio, Sanlitun,
Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯后街同里4楼
(6413 1019)
Kind of Light is a new project that features an online gallery of photography from
ten domestic and international artists. This affordable art sale will be the project’s
first live exhibition, and will take place at the Meridian Art Space on June 5. The
focus is on pieces that won’t break the bank (ranging from RMB500-5,000) with 15
percent of proceeds going to the charity, Roundabout. Also featured is an interactive 3D photography booth from artist Matjaz Tancic.
> Free entry, register online at www.yoopay.cn/event/kindoflight; 7.30pm;
Meridian Art Space, Meridian Space Building 8, C&C Park, 77, Meishuguan Back
Street, Dongcheng 东城区美术馆后街77号77文创园8号楼
Talk: America the Philosophical with
Carlin Romano
Carlin Romano, former literary critic and
editor of The Philadelphia Inquirer and a
finalist in the Pulitzer Prize in Criticism,
provides a richly-reported overview
of American thought, arguing that
ordinary Americans see through phony
philosophical justifications faster than
anyone else.
> RMB50, RMB40 for members; 7.30pm;
The Bookworm (see listings for details)
SPORT
Film: Smokey and the Bandit (dir. Hal
Needham, 1977)
Burt Reynolds (complete with authentic
‘70s mustache) plays as a bandit who attempts to smuggle beer east of the Texas
border. But things get complicated when
he picks up a hitchhiking runaway bride
(Sally Field) and the cryptically-named local law-enforcer, Sheriff Buford T. Justice
(Jackie Gleason) who gets wind of the
racket. High-speed chases across the
southern states ensue
> Free entry; bar opens at 8pm, screenings start at 9pm; Dada (see listings for
details)
DJ: Derrick Carter
With innovative productions, flawless
technical skills and an effortlessly joyful
approach to rocking a crowd, Derrick
Carter’s influences infiltrate through the
spectrum of dance music.
> RMB100 includes one Heineken beer;
10pm till late; The Bar at Migas (see listings for details)
ARTS
JUN 21
Comedy: Ronny Chieng
Comedian Ronny Chieng featured in
the Melbourne International Comedy
Festival Gala and won the Directors’
Choice Award at the 2014 festival. This
will be his only appearance in Beijing so
don’t miss it out.
> RMB150 (presale), RMB180 (door);
8pm; The Bookworm (see listings for
details)
JUNE 23
JUN 20
COMMUNITY
JUN 22
COMMUNITY
COMMUNITY
NIGHTLIFE
Music: OuduO - The Music of Lebanon
Master of the Oud, Hadi Eldebek, will
take you through the sounds of Lebanon
with his brother Mohamad. A mixture
of improvisation, the brothers’ own
compositions and old classics from the
Arab world. Also appearing on on June
26 at Modernista and June 27 at the
Bookworm (both free see listings for
details)
> RMB40; 9pm; Jianghu Bar; 7
Dongmianhua Hutong, Jiaodaokou
Nandajie, Dongcheng, 东城区交道口南大
街东棉花胡同7号
Talk: Cultural Day, El Día E
Join the festival atmosphere at El Día
E with an international celebration of
Spanish language and Hispanic cultures.
> Free; all day; Instituto Cervantes in
Beijing, A1 Gongtinanlu, Chaoyang朝阳
区工体南路A1
JUN 25
COMMUNITY
June 21
BEIJING COLOR RUN
The concept is a simple one. Run 5km and throw colored powder along the way.
No-one cares about your time and if anything, the slower you go the more fun
you’ll have. Organizers say the event “celebrates healthiness, happiness, individuality, and giving back to the community.”
> RMB168 (free for kids under 1.2m), registration required at
www.thecolorrun.com.cn; starts at the Beijing Garden Expo 北京园博园
Workshop: Understanding Middle
Eastern Music
Join Hadi Eldebek, a performing artist
with Yo-Yo Ma’s Silk Road Ensemble,
as he takes you on a journey into the
intricacies of Arabic music. This fun and
interactive workshop covers every aspect of Middle Eastern music, including
rhythms, scales and instruments.
> RMB100; 7.30pm; The Bookworm (see
listings for details)
JUN 26
ARTS
JUNE 2014
65
Events
> See Jun 20
ART
JUN 27
Eat: Poolside Brunch
Come up to the terrace and enjoy the
RMB180 all-you-can-eat Sunday brunch
with hearty paellas, fresh salads, and
homemade sausages. Special drink specials available every Sunday.
(5208 6061 for reservation, see listings
for more details)
NIGHTLIFE
DJ: Jesse Rose
A true pioneer, Jesse Rose is responsible
for twisting the template of house music
as we know it through genre-bending
productions, global performances, remixes of some of the biggest dance acts
around, and as a label boss A&Ring the
freshest talent in electronic music.
EVERY TUE
NIGHTLIFE
ARTS
> See Jun 20
JUN 28
NIGHTLIFE
Gig: Sanlitun Vice featuring Blende
Step back into a 1980s Miami full of
glitz, fashion, rare birds and predators.
This summer night bar at Migas will be
armed with thumping nu-disco, funky
new wave and boogie grooves.
> RMB80 (one free drink for those dress
in 80s Miami style); 10pm-late; The Bar
at Migas (see listings for details)
COMMUNITY
Salon: Linda Jaivin-Writing Beijing,
Translating China
Linda Jaivin – author, essayist and translator – talks about her latest book, an
illustrated history of the Beijing featuring some of the dramas, personalities,
building and rebuilding that has defined
the city since ancient times.
> RMB75 (includes a drink); 5pm; Capital
M (see listings for details)
June 21
Martin Berwick
of the Waverleys
The Waverleys have long broken the mould of Irish and Scottish folk bands by
being from neither Ireland nor Scotland. But while hailing from Malmö, Sweden,
may give rise to doubts about their authenticity, they play traditional tunes of the
highest order. Lead singer Martin Berwick, who picked up an ear for Celtic tunes
from his father Shaunnie (allegedly one of the great Scottish harmonica players),
will be making a solo appearance at Paddy O’Shea’s. He may be without the band’s
fabled four-part harmonies but expect expect no less in the classic folk sensibility
department.
> Free; from 9pm; Paddy O’Shea’s (see listings for details)
eat / drink
ARTS
COMMUNITY
66
JUNE 2014
EVERY WED
COMMUNITY
Sports: Mashup Pickup Basketball The party is moving outside for the summertime. Come join every Wednesday
night for weekly pickup basketball
games.
> RMB50; 7.30-9.30pm; Chaoyang Park
Basketball Courts (www.mashupsports.
com)
EVERY THU
NIGHTLIFE
ART
Music: Hoedown in the Book Stacks
Get an early start on the weekend with
Beijing’s own Hutong Yellow Weasels.
Kirk Kenney and Chris Hawke play a
broad range of Appalachian and bluegrass music which is sure to get you
hootin’ and hollerin’ as they strum the
banjo and fiddle late into the night.
> Free; 9pm; The Bookworm (see listings
for details)
EVERY FRI
Gig: Mr. Sea Turtle
Mr. Sea Turtle spans ska, punk and
grunge to create a bright and infectious
sound. Despite being landlocked, he’s
coming by Beijing as one of the stops on
his China tour.
> RMB100 (door), RMB80 (presale); 9pm;
Yugong Yishan (tickets online: buy.modernsky.com, see listing for details)
Film: Strange Brew (dir. Rick Moranis
and Dave Thomas, 1983)
Canadans Bob and Doug McKenzie (Rick
Moranis and Dave Thomas) get jobs
at the Elsinore Brewery, only to learn
that something is rotten within. The
McKenzie brothers go head-to-head with
an evil brew master in a dumb comedy
based loosely on Hamlet. > Free entry; bar opens at 8pm, screening starts at 9pm; Dada (see listings for
details)
Gig: Hot Club of Beijing
Beijing local band The Hot Club of
Beijing plays a raucous brand of Swing
and Gypsy Jazz to get your hips swaying
and your feet aching.
> Free entry, RMB45 for special prohibition era cocktails menu; 9.30pm till late;
Bar at Migas (see listings for details)
Gig: Concrete Jungle
Get down to the skillfully-selected
sounds of the Barcelona beat-mixer Cad
73, from old school hip hop to disco,
funk, soul and broken beat.
> Free entry, RMB45 for special prohibition era cocktails menu; 9pm-midnight;
The Bar at Migas (see listings for details)
Gig: Lebanon Meets Xinjiang
Middle Eastern culture has influenced
many aspects of both western and eastern life including music from Xinjiang.
Join US-based Lebanese brothers Hadi
and Mohamad Eldebek as they meet
with Xinjiang’s Pikar and Tursun to
contrast and meld two similar and yet
oh-so-different musical traditions. This is
fusion to surprise and inspire.
> Price TBC; 9pm; Zajia, 23 Doufuchi
Hutong, (behind the Bell Tower),
Dongcheng 东城区旧鼓楼大街豆腐池胡
同23号
JUNE 30
EVERY SUN
EAT/DRINK
COMMUNITY
June 13-July 18
Dinner of Champions-Niajo
With Spain the reigning World Cup champions, where better to revel in the spirit
of the beautiful game, than at Beijing’s leading Spanish restaurant Niajo, which will
be offering a “Dinner of Champions” throughout this summer’s tournament. The
restaurant’s specially designed Latin-American inspired menu is a sumptuous affair.
Beginning with fresh Iberian ham with house caipirinha, the menu offers diners a
choice of smoked salmon ceviche, Spanish tuna and aioli, beef tenderloin, Spanish
chorizo, or mushroom and spinach confit, all paired with five different types of
Spanish wine. Much like the Spanish national team itself, this feast demonstrates
celebratory flair, showmanship and (culinary) skill – and is likely to surpass anything else you try this summer. So get yourself out of the pub, and celebrate the
world’s number one sport in style.
> RMB348/person without wine/RMB548/person with wine.
Daily 12.00am - 10.30pm. 3/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District
朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园3层 (5208 6052)
Quiz: The Bookworm Quiz Night
Friday night is quiz night at The
Bookworm. Start the weekend by intellectually dominating your peers every
Friday night. Six rounds of trivia hosted
by Johnny White. Drink prizes up for
grabs all night.
> Free; 8pm; The Bookworm (see listings
for details)
EVERY SAT
COMMUNITY
Sports: Mashup Flag Football League
Mashup Flag Football is back. Time
to hit the field with both genders and
epic post-game parties.
> RMB600 (regular season); 1-3pm (men),
3pm (men and women); Ditan Sports
Stadium, Ditan Park West Gate 地坛体
育场在安定门地铁站北步行即可(www.
mashupsports.com)
CITY SCENES
Man in green photobombs man in black photobombing attendees at Oakwood
Residence Beijing’s spring BBQ.
Distance required for ambitious double high-five dangerously misjudged at The
Renaissance Beijing Capital’s Spanish Festival.
Girl on left remains thoroughly
unimpressed
by the flamethrowing antics at
INDIGO’s medieval
party. She’s more
into jousting and
digging plague
pits, we hear.
Looks like one of the four band members at the opening of
YIN on 12’s roof terrace didn’t get the ‘turn to the left’ memo.
Or the ‘keep-the-hair-out-of-your-face’ memo. Or the ‘stay
sober’ memo.
Forced smile or Blue Steel – revellers pick and choose their expressions at V+ Lounge’s terrace
opening party.
JUNE 2014
67
Weekly Specials
Happy hours
Meal deals
Brunch
Food and Drink
Ladies' nights
10 Kuai Taco Tuesday at El
Gran Bocado
It’s a good job El Gran Bocado is doing its weekly taco
deals on a Tuesday because, quite frankly, nothing great
ever happens on a Tuesday. (In fact, we had to rank the
days of the week in order of preference, that most destitute of days of probably wouldn’t even make the top
five.) The Mexican on Xingfucun’s 10 kuai taco Tuesday
deal is a beacon of hope, though, as all 12 varieties of El
Granny B’s tacos – such as carne asada beef, pulled pork
and chorizo & potato, are only RMB10 a pop. Free beans
and rice if you order 5 or more. Slow Boat on tap but,
as we’re only two days into the week, we’re fans of the
lighter Dos Equis.
> see listings for details
M O N DAY to FR I DAY
Monday
Mai Bar
Buy two cocktails, get one free.
> 40 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 东城区
北锣鼓巷40号 (138 1125 2641)
Parlor
Buy-two-get-one-free on selected
cocktails.
> 39-8 Xingfuercun, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸
福二村39-8 (8444 4135 )
Monday to Thursday
XIU
Buy-one-get-one-free on selected drinks,
6-9pm.
> 6/F, Park Hyatt Beijing, 2 Jianwai Dajie,
Chaoyang 北京柏悦酒店, 朝阳区建国门外
大街2号6楼 (8567 1108)
Agua
Agua’s new set lunch menu is RMB118/
person for three courses.
> RMB118/person, Mon-Fri, 12pm2:30pm, Agua, 4/F Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun
Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北路81号那
里花园4楼D308号 (5208 6188 )
Greyhound Café
Only RMB28 for a Tsingtao or Bud, and
RMB38 for a mojito or dry martini, 5-7pm.
> Greyhound Cafe (see listings for
details)
Village Café
Set Lunch, RMB98+15% (3 courses),
RMB88+15% (2 courses)
> 11.30am-2.30pm, Bldg 1, The Opposite
House, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳
区三里屯路11号瑜舍酒店1号楼 (6410
5210)
Monday to friday
Monday to Saturday
Hagaki
Set lunch, 11.30am-3pm, Bento style
lunch set from RMB58 with no service
charge.
5-10pm, Daiginjo Sake promotion,
RMB550 / 150 Bottle / Carafe.
> 1/F, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳
区酒仙桥路22号1层 8414 9815
Twilight
Mon-Sat before 8pm and all day Sun,
RMB20 off cocktails.
> 0102, 3/F, Bldg 5, Jianwai SOHO, 39
Dongsanhuan Zhong Lu, Chaoyang 朝
阳区东三环39号建外SOHO5号3层0102室
(5900 5376)
ing Yaa Tang
Set lunch, RMB88/person, 4 for 3.
> Bldg 1, The Opposite House, 11
Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11
号瑜舍酒店1号楼 (6140 5230)
One East
12pm-2:30pm, two-course set lunch:
RMB 118/person net
> 2/F, Hilton Beijing, 1 Dong Fang Road,
DongsanhuanBeilu Chaoyang
朝阳区东三环北路东方路一号北京希尔顿
酒店2层 (5865 5030)
68
JUNE 2014
Tuesday
Flamme
Two-for-one steak all day.
> 3/F, S4-33 Sanlitun Taikooli, 19 Sanlitun
Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯
太古里南区3层S4-33 (6417 8608)
El Gran Bocado
Just RMB10 per taco – order as many as
you want.
> 1/F, Just Make Bldg, Xingfucun
Zhonglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸福村中路杰
作大厦1层 (6416 1715)
tuesday to Friday
S.T.A.Y Restaurant
Three courses including coffee and tea
for RMB388/person with 15 percent
service charge, 11.30am-2.30pm.
> Level 1, Valley Wing, Shangri-La Hotel,
29 Zizhuyuan Lu, Haidian 海淀区紫竹院路
29号香格里拉酒店1层 (6841 2211-6727)
The World of Suzie Wong’s
Free drinks for girls, 9pm-12am.
> Gate 8, West Gate of Chaoyang Park,
Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳公园西门8号 (6500
3377)
Xian
Whiskey night, discounts on special
selected whiskeys.
> All night, 1/F, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu,
Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路22号1层 (8414
9810)
wednesday
Slow Boat Brewery
Flights of three, five or ten 200ml
samples are 20 percent off.
> 56 Dongsibatiao, Dongcheng 东城区东
四八条56号 (6538 5537)
Mao Mao Chong
Cocktails RMB35, 7-11pm.
> 12 Banchang Hutong, Jiaodaokou Nan
Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区交道口南大街板
厂胡同12号 (6405 5718)
Elements
Free mojitos, champagne and cosmos,
9pm-1am.
> 58 Gongti Xi Men, Chaoyang 朝阳区工
体西门58号 (6551 2373)
Four Corners
Ladies get 15 percent off red wine.
cheap shots and drink deals at 4Corners’
weekly celebration of KTV.
> Dashibei Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区石
杯胡同7号 (6401 7797)
Starfish
Ladies enjoy three Kumamoto oysters
with a glass of Prosecco for RMB150,
4-11pm.
> 22-1 Dongzhimen Waidajie, Chaoyang 朝
阳区东直门外大街22-1号 (6416 5499)
thursday
Domain
Happy Burger’s Day, 2 for 1 Burger
promotion.
> 10.30am-2pm, 2/F, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu,
9830)
Opus Terrace
Ladies enjoy free cocktails; on Fridays, it’s
bachelors night, where chaps get 50 percent
off beer and burgers at the same times, 5-8pm.
> Opus Bar & Terrace, 48 Liangmaqiao
Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区亮马桥路48号
(5695 8888)
Vics
Free drinks for ladies until midnight.
> Inside the north gate of the Workers’
Stadium, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北门内
(5293 0333)
Friday
Mesh
House Champaign buy 1 bottle get 1
free.
号瑜舍酒店1号楼 (6410 5220)
Events
E v ery day
The Big Smoke
Daily 4-7pm, 20 percent off all cocktails,
house wines and beers.
> 57 Xingfucun Zhonglu, Chaoyang 朝阳
区幸福村中路57号楼利世楼 (6416 2683)
Blue Frog
Daily 4-8pm, buy-one-get-one-free all
drinks.
> S4-30, 3/F, Building 4, Sanlitun Taikooli
South, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区
三里屯路19号三里屯太古里南区4号楼3层
S4-30 (6417 4030)
Centro
Daily 5-8pm, two-for-one deals.
> Shangri-la’s Kerry Centre Hotel Beijing,
1/F, 1 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光
华路1号香格里拉北京嘉里中心大酒店1层
(6561 8833 ext. 42)
Cuju
Daily 6-9pm, buy-one-get-one-free draft
beer, mixed drinks and soft drinks.
> 28 Xiguan Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区
西管胡同28号 (6407 9782)
Feast (Food by East)
Works for dinner, 2 course RMB168+15%
with a glass of wine or soft drinks.
> 5.30-10.30pm, 2/F, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu,
9820)
Flamme
Cocktail, beers and wine by the glass are
50 percent off from 3-7.30pm daily.
> S4-33, 3/F, Sanlitun Taikooli, 19 Sanlitun
Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯
太古里南区3层S4-33 (6417 8608)
Modo Urban Deli
4-7pm cocktails and house wine RMB25
and beer RMB15.
> S10-31, 3/F, Bldg 8, Sanlitun Taikooli
South, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区
三里屯路19号三里屯太古里南区8号楼S1031 (6415 7207)
Mosto
6-7pm discounts on cocktails, wine and
beer.
> 3/F Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu,
Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北路81号那里花
园3层 (5208 6030)
NOLA
3-8pm. Sun-Thu, half price on Pabst
Blue Ribbon, Tsingtao and all cocktails
including daiquiris.
> A-11 Xiushui Nanjie, Jianguomenwai
Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街秀水
南街A-11 (8563 6215)
R Lounge
Daily 6-9pm, two-for-one standard
drinks and cocktails.
> 4/F, Renaissance Beijing Capital Hotel,
61 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang 朝
阳区东三环中路61号北京富力万丽酒店4
层 (5863 8112)
Transit
Daily 6pm-7:30pm, two-for-one.
> N4-36, Sanlitun Taikooli North, 11
号三里屯太古里北区N4-36号 (6417 9090)
Isola
11:30am-3pm. Lunch for RMB138.
3-6pm Fashion high tea
5-8pm Happy hour, two-for-one on
selected drinks
6-10:30 Dinner set menu, 2-course
RMB238, 3-course RMB258.
> N3-47, 3/F, Building 3, Taikoo Li North,
Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11号院太古里
北区N3-37和 47商铺 (6416 3499)
Bene Restaurant
Daily 11.30am-2pm. RMB98 includes
antipasto with main course, pizza or
pasta.
> Sheraton Dongcheng, 36 Beisanhuan
Donglu, Dongcheng 东城区北三环东路
36号 (5798 8888)
Cafe Sambal
Nasi Campur Malaysian set: two meats
and vegetables each, varying daily. With
soup, appetizer for RMB78. Curry sets
from RMB55-65
> See Listings for details
Beijing Marriott Hotel
Daily 11.30-2pm, dumplings, noodles
and desserts, including juice or tea,
RMB118. Sun/Sat 11.30-2pm, dim sum,
lobster and unlimited beer, RMB168.
> 26A Xiaoyun Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区霄
云路甲26号北京海航大厦万豪酒店(5927
8888)
Vivid
Daily, 6pm-10pm, two-for-one drinks.
> Vivid, Level 5, Conrad Beijing, 29 North
Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东
三环北路29号北京康莱德酒店5层 (6584
6310)
Transit
Daily 12pm-2.30pm. Choice of
appetizers, mains, rice or noodles with
dessert for RMB88.
> N4-36/37 Sanlitun Taikooli North,
11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯
路11号三里屯太古里北区N4-36号 (6417
9090)
Raj
Free local beer before 9pm with meals
throughout June and July.
> Daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-11pm, 31 Gulou
Xidajie, Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼西大街31
号 (6401-1675)
Week end
saturday
R Lounge
Selection of drinks for free all night.
> 61 Dongsanhuan Zhong Lu, Chaoyang
朝阳区东三环中路61号北京富力万丽酒店
4层 (5863 8241)
all weekend
One East
Fri-Sun, 6pm-10:30pm, Australian
Organic Beef, buy one get one free.
> 2/F, Hilton Beijing, 1 Dongfang Lu,
North Dong Sanhuan Road, Chaoyang
酒店2层 5865 5030
Elements
6pm-10pm, build your own salad with
fresh and seasonal vegetables. RMB98+
> 2/F, Hilton Beijing, 1 Dong Fang Road,
Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang
酒店2层 5865 5020
sunday
Qi
Sun 11.30am-2pm, all-you-can-eat dim
sum including one double-boiled soup
for RMB288 per person. Add a bottle of
Dom Perignon for RMB1988 for two.
> Ritz-Carlton Beijing Financial Street,
Jinchengfang Dong, 1 Jinrong Jie,
Xicheng 西城区金城坊东金融街1号 (6601
6666)
Senses and Prego
Sun 11.30am-3pm, Retrolicious Champagne
Brunch, international and Asian specialties
with free flow champagne, wines, cocktails
and juices for RMB 458. Prices subject to 15
percent service.
> The Westin Beijing Financial Street, 9B
Financial Street, Xicheng 西城区金融大街
乙9号(6629 7810)
Seasonal Tastes
Sun 11.30am-3pm Unlimited buffet for
RMB428-498 per person plus 15 percent
surcharge.
> Westin Chaoyang, 7 North
Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东
三环北路7号(5922 8880)
Sureño
RMB228 for 2 courses, RMB328 for 3
courses. Supplement RMB150 for free
flow cocktails; supplement RMB200 for
free flow Champaign (all prices subject
to 15% service charge)
号瑜舍酒店1号楼 (6410 5240)
Vasco’s
Sun 11.30am-3pm, international buffet
with free-flow champagne for RMB458
plus 15 percent service charge.
> Hilton Beijing Wangfujing, 8
Wangfujing Dongjie, Dongcheng 东城区
王府井东街8号(5812 8888 ext. 8411)
saturday to sunday
Agua
Sat-Sun, Agua’s Sombresa Weekend
Brunch is RMB198
> 12-2:30pm (free flow until 3pm),
Agua, 4/F Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu,
园4楼D308号 (5208 6188)
Aroma
Sat-Sun 11.30am-3pm, international
buffet starting at RMB518 plus 15
percent service charge.
Ritz-Carlton Beijing, 83A Jianguo Lu,
China Central Place, Chaoyang 朝阳区建
国路83甲(5908 8161)
Café Sambal
Sat-Sun, RMB98, Café Sambal is rolling
out weekend brunch with a rotating
menu of Malaysian delicacies, like
Kapitan and Nasi Lamak. Three courses
plus coffee, tea or fruit punch.
> 43 Doufuchi Hutong, Jiugulou Dajie,
Dongcheng 东城区旧鼓楼大街豆腐池胡同
43号 (6400 4875)
Enoterra
Sat-Sun 11am-4pm, a la carte brunch for
RMB75-130. Free flow sparkling wine for
an extra RMB80.
> 4/F Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu,
园4楼D308号 (5208 6076)
Eudora Station
Sat-Sun 10am-3pm, breakfast buffet with
one main and free flow juice or coffee
for RMB98.
> Opposite Lido Palace, 6 Fangyuan Xi
Lu. Chaoyang 朝阳区芳园西路6号(6437
8331)
Sui Yuan
Sat-Sun and public holidays 10.30am2.30pm, unlimited dim sum for RMB128
plus 15 percent surcharge.
> Hilton Double Tree, 168 Guang’anmen
Waidajie, Xicheng 西城区广安门外大街
168号 (6338 1999 ext. 1726)
Yi House
Sat-Sun international set menu for
RMB308.
> Grace Hotel, Bldg 2, 1, 706 Hou Jie, 798
Art District, 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang
朝阳区酒仙桥路2号院798艺术区706后街1
号 (6436 1818)
JUNE 2014
69
listings
restaurant
OPEN DOOR
The Hot One Hundred
About This guide represents our editors’
top 100 picks, and includes some That’s
Beijing advertisers. Restaurants rated(*)
have been personally reviewed by our
experts, and scored according to the
cuisine, experience and affordability.
CHINESE
Contemporary & Mixed Cuisine
8 Qi Nian (Cantonese/Sichuan/Hunan)
The New World Hotel’s flagship restaurant
has classic Chinese cuisine in abundance,
as well as some vitality-restoring medicinal
soups. (Their decent wine list is just as
effective.)
>Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:15pm, 5:30-9:30pm, Sat/Sun
12-2:45pm, 5:30-9:30pm; 2/F, New World Hotel, 8
Qinian Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区祈年大街8号新世界
酒店2层 (5960 8822)
Bellagio (Taiwanese)
Where else can you carve through mountainous shaved ice desserts and suck down
creamy bubble teas at 5am? A favorite
among the city’s hip and young, this
swanky Taiwanese restaurant chain is best
enjoyed long after dark.
> 6 Gongti xilu Chaoyang District 6 号工体西路
(6551 3533) See www.bellagiocafe.com.cn for more
locations
Din Tai Fung ¥ (Taiwanese)
Expensive...................................¥
Expense Account ....................¥¥
Recommended .........................*
Top Ten ....................................**
Resembling something between a nightclub and theater, the Opposite House’s
basement restaurant proves to be more
than just style over substance with their
range of classic dishes. Don’t ask about the
double A, though.
> Daily 12-10:30pm, B1/F, The Opposite House,
Sanlitun Bei Lu 三里屯路11号院1号楼瑜舍酒B1楼
(6410 5230)
Najia Xiaoguan (Imperial Dining)
A hugely popular Manchu restaurant,
first opened by an emperor’s doctor, you
choose your dishes from a carved wooden
tray: 18-hour stewed huang tanzi, fatty
ox hoof,crispy fried shrimp, chicken with
walnut. Reservations are required to get
a place in this two-storey, quintessentially
Imperial China restaurant.
> Daily 1130am-10pm. 10 Yonganli (south of the
LG Twin Towers, west of 119 Middle School),
Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国
门外大街永安里10号(双子座大厦南侧, 119中学西侧)
(6567 3663, 6568 6553)
Wu Li Xiang (Cantonese, Sichuan) *
Impressive views don’t detract from the
exquisitely presented cuisine of Chef Kam,
especially the famous dim sum. Swanky
classics from all the main culinary regions
of China, like Sichuan and Hong Kong,
including “Monk Jump Over the Wall,”
braised pork in oyster sauce.
> Daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-10pm. 2-3/F, Traders Upper
East Hotel, Beijing, 2 Dongsihuan Beilu, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区东四环北路2号北京上东盛贸饭店二三
层 (5907 8406)
Peking Duck
Da Dong *
Among the city’s most famous haunts, Da
Dong guarantees slick carvings of Beijingstyle roast duck and delectable wrap fillings. The venue’s a class act and the plum
sauce is hard to follow.
> Daily 11am-10pm. No.22 Dongsishitiao,
Dongcheng District 22号东四十条甲 (5169 0328 See
www.dadongdadong.com for more locations Daily
11am-10pm)
FLAMmE
We have an
RMB500 voucher to
give away. To win,
email bjeditor@
urbanatomy.com
‘Flamme’
Duck de Chine ¥ *
Good duck is meant to show your guests
how wonderful you are, as much as the
food. Duck De Chine does that in spades,
with fantastic presentation of its crispy,
succulent duck (RMB188).
Summer Sizzler
Flamme has turned the grill up to 11 this summer with its latest, greatest and
most flammiest (new word?) menu that should suit all tastes given that is contains an almighty 23 new dishes. The Flamme nachos (RMB68) are your classic
Mexican snack, sent into overdrive with a bolognese ragu and an extra kick of
homemade guacamole. The summer seafood pot (RMB98) is a veritable aquarium of fishy treats – a definite must, and don’t overlook the tomahawk rib eye
1.6kg steak at RMB1,288 and big enough to feed a small village.
For brunch we like the sound of the fresh chorizo scrambled eggs (RMB78).
Wash it all down with the Momo Punch RMB99 (it’s for sharing but that just
sounds like a challenge to us) – which is made with Momo Sauvigon blanc
and er… grape juice – one for grape-lovers then. Or the Tropical Prescription
(RMB70) with vanilla blackcurrant rum and and aromatic bitter soda water.
> Flamme, 3/F Village South, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里
屯VILLAGE南区3层S4-33室 (6417 8608)
This Taipei-based franchise impressed Ken
Hom enough to call it one of the best 10
eateries in the world, back in 1993. Famous
for its dependably delicious xiaolongbao
or little steam buns. Book ahead, there’s
always a long wait.
> Xinyuanli branch: 11.30am-2.30pm, 5-10pm
Weekends 11.30am-10pm. Yu Yang Branch (渔阳
店): 24 Middle Street, Xinyuanxili, Chaoyang District,
Beijing 朝阳区新源西里中街24号 (近渔阳饭店) (6462
4502) > Additional branches in Shin Kong Place;
Parkview Green; Grand Pacific Mall Xidan; Modern
Plaza Zhongguancun (see www.dintaifung.com.
cn for details)
Green T (Fine Dining)
Although the inspiration is ‘Tang Dynasty
bathhouse,’ the effect is more ‘Whoah.’ An
indoor tea bath occupies a slate-tiled space
scattered with artistic curios, along side
a vegetable allotment, outdoor Jacuzzi,
wooden trestle table and 1,500-sqm villa.
The space has a design award by Wallpaper* magazine and came third in the Daily
Meal’s Top 101 Asian restaurants.
JUNE 2014
Shanghai
Jade Garden (Shanghainese)
Southern cuisine in a sophisticated setting.
Jardin de Jade Jasmine-tea Smoked Duck
(RMB78), Xiaolongbao dumplings (RMB
22), Eight Treasure Rice (Babao Fan, RMB
22) and more. Particularly convivial on the
weekends with Cantonese families gathering for dim-sum feasts.
> Daily 11am-10.30pm Bldg 6, Jiqingli,
Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝
外大街吉庆里6号楼 (6552 8688, for other locations
visit www.jade388.com/su/index.aspx)
Shanghai Min
> Daily 11.30am-11.30pm. 318 Hegezhuang Village,
Cuigezhuang, Chaoyang District朝阳区崔各庄乡合
各庄村318号 (8456 4922 Ext 8, 136 0113 7132, 136
0113 7232; www.green-t-house.com)
The Horizon (Cantonese, Sichuan, Beijing
Duck)*
Kerry Hotel’s recently rennovated Chinese
restaurant has widened its predominantly
Cantonese and Sichuan horizons to include
dim sum, double-boiled soups and Peking
Duck – and the roast bird here really is
fabulous.
> Daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30pm-10pm 1/F, Beijing
Kerry Hotel, 1 Guanghua Lu 光华路1号嘉里中心1
层 (8565 2188)
Jing Yaa Tang (Chinese, Peking Duck)
70
> Daily 11.30am-2.30pm; 6-10.30pm. Courtyard 4,
1949 The Hidden City, Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区工体北路4号院 (6501 8881): 98
Jinbao Jie, Dongcheng District 东城区金宝街98号
(6521 2221)
Many swear this chain has the best
Shanghai-style hongshaorou north of the
Yangtze. The jury’s out, but its popularity
remains.
> 0505, 5/F Raffles City Mall, 1 Dongzhimen Nan
Listings
> Reservation (86 10) 6416 3469 S1-30a Taikoo Li
Sanlitun(on the third floor of i.t shop)朝阳区三里屯
路19号院太古里1号楼3层S1-30a号商铺
Sichuan
Chuan Ban *
This bright, modestly decorated dining hall
is frequently cited as Beijing’s best Sichuan
restaurant.
> Mon-Fri 7-9am, 10.50am-2pm, 4.50-9.30pm; SatSun 7am-10pm 5 Gongyuan Toutiao, Jianguomennei
Dajie, Dongcheng District 东城区建国门内贡院头条5
号 (6512 2277, ext. 6101)
South Memory
This chain restaurant redefines Hunan
cuisine, with exquisite food and an elegant
atmosphere. The trademark shilixiang
niurou (fragrant beef), duojiao shuangse
yutou (dual-colour spiced fish head) and
meltingly tender frog dishes are among the
favorites with local gourmands.
> Daily 11am-10pm. 2/F, 230-232, Fenglian Plaza, 18
Chaoyangmen Wai Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区
朝外大街18号丰联广场2楼230-232号 (6588 1797 for
other locations, visit www.southmemory.com)
Transit ¥¥ *
Sichuan is known for its blazing spices and
its equally hot girls. While the latter are up
to you, the creative minds at Transit have
made some fiery additions to the classical,
chili-thumping canon, and they will charge
you for that knowledge. But unlike many
equally expensive joints, this is high-end
Chinese dining at its best.
> Daily 12-2.30pm, 6 -10pm. N4-36, Sanlintun Village
North, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里
屯路11号三里屯Village北区N4-36号 (6417 9090)
Yu Xin
Open since 1993, Yu Xin has a loyal fanbase
through consistently offers authentic
Sichuan dishes. Their liangfen – a jelly-like
substance cut into chunky strips and
dressed in an addictive spicy sauce – hits
the spot. Also not to be missed are koushui
ji, mouthwatering cold chicken, and
shuizhu niurou, fiery boiled beef slices.
Enjoy its rustic, intimate setting of bamboo
cubicles and swift, friendly service.
> Daily 11am-10pm. 5A Xingfu Yicun Xili, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区幸福一村西里甲5号 (6415 8168 for
other locations, visit www.yuxin1997.com)
Yuxiang Renjia
Most branches maintain simple decorations, with black-and-white photos of
traditional houses, river towns in the south,
and strings of dried red chilis and garlic
hanging on the wall. So, too, is their menu:
old-fashion and reliably good. The lazi ji is
crispy but not too greasy, the pepper-sauce
noodle, with spinach, is filling and refreshing. Assorted confections are guaranteed
to offer comfort to numbed-and-burned
tongues, too.
> Daily 11am-2pm, 5-9pm 5/F, Lianhe Dasha (Union
Plaza), 20 Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District
朝阳区朝阳门外大街20号联合大厦五层 (6588 3841
for other locations visit www.yuxiangrenjia.com)
Yunnan
Dali Courtyard *
If you like authentic Yunnanese food, you’ll
have to trust the staff: there’s no menu,
it all just arrives in an intimate courtyard
setting. The price (RMB120pp) matches the
rustic ingredients.
> Daily Midday-2pm; 6-10.30pm. Gulou Dong Dajie,
67 Xiaojingchang Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城
区鼓楼东大街小经厂胡同67号 (8404 1430)
Lost Heaven ¥ (Yunnan, SE Asian)
An emphasis on Yunnan characterises this
menu’s fresh journey through the SE Asia
passage, with a grandiose yet
dark teak interior.
> Daily noon-2pm, 5pm-10.30 (bar open till 1am).
Ch’ien Men 23, 23 Qianmen Dongdajie, Dongcheng
District 东城区前门东大街23号(8516 2698)
Middle 8th Restaurant *
Make room for the mushrooms – especially
the Kungpao – at this busy chain. Hip and
slightly swanky, without being pretentious,
this is a celebration of all things ‘south of
the clouds’ – so try crisp-fried worms, or
“crossing-the-bridge” noodles, beef jerkystyle yak meat and fresh, wild herbs galore.
> The Place Branch: Daily 11am-11pm, L404A, South
Tower, The Place, 9 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District
OPEN DOOR
Southern Barbarian *
Yunnan’s wide selection of savory, sour and
sweet, all in a smart hutong setting, with a
ton of beer selections to boot.
> Daily 11am-11pm. 107 Baochao Hutong,
Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街宝钞胡同107
号(6401 3318)
Yun’er Small Town
Folksy Yunnanese fare on Beiluoguxiang.
Fragrant dishes including the jasmine bulbs
with scrambled eggs, lemongrass shrimp,
and banana leaf wrapped bolete mushrooms will keep us crawling back.
> Daily 10am-11pm, 84 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng
District, 东城区北锣鼓巷84号 (8404 2407)
Wang Jia Sha (Shanghainese)
Modern Shanghai cuisine – popular with
Hong Kong celebrities – famed for its crabmeat dumplings. Try the spiced-salt ribs
(RMB62) for a bit of Adam action.
朝阳区光化路9号世贸天阶南楼L404A (6587 1431)
Additional venues in Sanlitun; Tai Koo Li Mall; Indigo
Mall (see www.middle8th.com for details)
Dumplings
Baoyuan Jiaoziwu
Famous for their rainbow of dyed dumplings, Baoyuan have their jiaozi (six, under
RMB10) wrapped in a larger yuanbao
silver-ingot shape, with creative vegetarian
options and authentic Sichuan food.
> Daily 11am-10pm. North of 6 Maizidian Jie,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区麦子店街6号楼北侧 (6586
4967)
Chapter, Conrad Hotel
Mr Shi’s Dumplings *
The ultimate in Beijing-style dumplings,
they really don’t come better than this. Find
it and you’ll never go elsewhere.
Literary Lunch
> 74 Baochao Hutong, Gulou Dong Dajie,
Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街宝钞胡同74号
(8405 0399, 131 6100 3826)
Hot Pot
Ding Ding Xiang *
Classier than most hot-pot joints, Ding Ding
XIang features a spacious dining room of
sweaty-faced patrons enjoying high-grade
huo guo in their own individual pot. The
delicious sesame sauce (the recipe is a
closely guarded secret) is a Beijing classic.
> Daily 11am-10pm. 2/F, Yuanjia International
Apartments, Dongzhimenwai, Dongzhong Jie (opposite East Gate Plaza), Dongcheng District 东城区
东直门外东中街东环广场对面元嘉国际公寓2层 (6417
9289, for other locations visit www.dingdingxiang.
com.cn)
Chapter is already a trendsetter with its unique “food library” ambience and
now it’s upping its game further with Chef Boonserm from Thailand, bringing
some tropical tastes to the June menu. At RMB195pp (+15 percent service) for
lunch and starting at RMB298pp (+15 percent service) for its dinner indulgence
menu, this generous menu is perfect for a celebration or just you know going
wild and treating yourself. The tod man plagrai (fish cake with cucumber sauce)
is a delightful delicacy while the yam mamuang talay truly shines through
with a zingy, spicy hit of seafood and green mango making it a great dish for
Beijing´s hazy heat. If luxury is what you’re after then why not splash out on
the Sunday Brunch Experiment, RMB438pp (+15 percent service)
> Conrad Hotel Beijing No.29 Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环北路
29号 (6584 6000)
Haidilao
Hot pot in China is like religion; everyone’s
got their own brand. Either way, the raw
meats and vegetables, cooked communally,
is divine, and the outstanding customer
service makes Haidilao a fitting church
> Daily, 24 hours. 2A Baijiazhuang Lu (beside No. 80
Middle School), Chaoyang District 朝阳区白家庄路
甲2号 (八十中学西侧)(6595 2982, for other locations
visit http:>www.haidilaohuoguo.com)
Regional
Crescent Moon (Xinjiang) *
Roast mutton enthusiasts go over the
moon at this reputable Xinjiang Muslim
restaurant. Eastern European and Central
Asian influences are evident throughout,
with peppery and cumin-spiced dishes
livening up traditional Chinese favorites.
> 弯弯月亮 16 Dongsi Liutiao 东四六条16号 (64005281)
Da Gui (Guizhou)
Guizhou’s famed hot-and-sour cuisine nestled into a charming traditional alleyway.
Munch happily into pickled greens and
don’t miss the salty-sweet deep-fried black
sesame balls. They’re sensational.
Allday’s
Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区东直门南大街1号来福士购
物中心5楼0505号铺 (400 820 9777) Additional locations in Financial Street; Jinbao Jie; Oriental Plaza;
Sanlitun Soho; Xinyuan Nan Lu (see www.online.
thatsmags.com for details)
We have an
RMB500 voucher to
give away. To win,
email bjeditor@
urbanatomy.com
‘Alldays’
> Daily 10am-2pm, 5-10pm. 69 Daxing Hutong,
Jiaodaokou, Dongcheng District 东城区交道口大兴胡
同69号 (6407 1800)
Have You Located Yours?
Makye Ame (Tibetan)
Determined to prove that Tibetan cuisine
consists of more than just yak-butter tea,
the Beijing branch of this nationwide chain
serves up nomadic classics such as curried
potatoes and roast lamb. The original cosy
Xiushui location is great for winter.
Allday’s is a described as a “coffee restaurant.” We suppose they want to be
broad and all encompassing – which they certainly are. Tucked away from the
crowds of Sanlitun, Allday’s is a large-ish restaurant with the decor of an IKEA
living room merged with a typical all-American breakfast stop. It plays a mix
of western pop hits that make you feel at home. It offers an extensive menu
ranging from a large, American portion of steak and eggs (RMB78), a delicious
Spanish omelette with sausage and vegetables (RMB35), and a healthy salad
topped with grilled chicken, boiled eggs and buttered toast that make them
anything but boring (RMB62). Particularly impressive is the assorted prosciutto
and cheese platter (RMB98), a delicious mix of flavors that go hand-in-hand
with a great glass of wine. If you’re not full at this point, make sure to follow
this up with the chocolate waffles topped with chocolate ice cream and bananas. All it takes is one taste of those mouthwatering waffles and well… you
just may devour the entire plate (RMB38).
> Daily 7am-11pm, Unit 1, Tongguang Plaza, 12 Nongzhanguan Nanli,
Chaoyang 朝阳区农展馆南里12号通广大厦1楼底商 (6538 9488)
> Daily 10-midnight, 11A Xiushui Nanjie,
Jianguomenwai, Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国门外
秀水南街甲11号, (6506 9616)
Xinjiang Red Rose (Xinjiang) *
Beijing’s most famous Xinjiang restaurant
serves some of the tenderest lamb skewers
around, matched by enormous servings of
dishes like dapan ji (a chicken, potato and
pepper stew), latiaozi (noodles with a spicy
tomato sauce) and baked flatbread (nang).
Nightly performances (starting at 7.40pm)
feature live music and belly dancers with
snakes – you might find yourself dragged
on-stage to join in.
> Daily 10.30am-11pm. Inside 7 Xingfu Yicun alley,
opposite Workers’ Stadium North Gate, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区工人体育场北门对面幸福一村7巷内
JUNE 2014
71
Listings
(6415 5741)
WESTERN
Fine Dining
Aria ¥¥ (European) *
A gold standard of opulence and, at
RMB1,100 for the Wagyu beef and starters
around RMB150, the prices reflect that.
In-house sommeliers help tailor your meal
perfectly.
> Mon-Fri 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm-midnight; SatSun 6-10pm. Second floor, China World Hotel, 1
Jianguomenwai Waidajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区
建国门外大街 (6505 2266 ext. 36)
Barolo ¥¥ (Italian) *
Average Italian abounds in Beijing: not
here, though. Quite the opposite, in fact,
meaning Barolo is as well-regarded as the
Piedmont wine it is named after.
> Mon-Sun 11.30am-2pm, 6pm-10pm. Ritz Carlton
Hotel, China Central Place, 83A Jianguo Lu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国路甲83号华贸中心丽思
卡尔顿酒店内 (5908 8151) Brasserie Flo ¥¥ (French) *
Marble slabs, mosaic floors and brass
fittings establish the Parisian bona fides;
dishes like snails (RMB78), oysters (RMB48
each) and steak tartare (RMB158) confirm.
The grandeur is matched only by the service, and the prices reflect the authenticity
of the experience.
> Daily 11am-midnight. 18 Xiaoyun Lu, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区霄云路18号 (6595 5135, www.flo.cn/
brasserie/restaurants/beijing)
Brian McKenna @The Courtyard ¥¥ (Contemporary Western) *
Innovative and creative dishes are de rigeur
at the Michelin-starred Irish chef’s reinvention of this long-standing Beijing fine
dining institution.
> Daily, restaurant 6pm-10pm, bar 5-11pm, 95
Donghuamen Avenue, Dongcheng District 东城区东
华门大街95号 (6526 8883)
Capital M ¥ (Contemporary Western) **
The Art Deco interior, swish staff and
breathtaking views over the archery towers
from Qianmen ensures the pinnacle of
al-fresco dining, with world-class modern
European stylings and deliciously posh
afternoon tea. Our 2013 editor’s pick for
restaurant of the year.
> Daily 11.30am-10.30pm. Floor 3, 2 Qianmen
Buxingjie, Chongwen District 东城区前门步行街2
号3层 (6702 2727, www.m-restaurantgroup.com/
capitalm/home.html)
Mio ¥¥
Glitzy Italian fare at the Four Seasons, with
a mobile Bellini cart, wheeled straight
to your table. Chef Marco Calenzo crafts
a superb squash tortellini by hand, and
pampers diners with desserts like the
deconstructed tiramisu.
>Daily, lunch 11:30am - 2:30pm, dinner 5:30pm
-10:30pm Four Seasons Hotel, 48 Liang Ma Qiao
Road, Chaoyang District, 北京四季酒店亮马桥路48
号, 朝阳区(5695 8888)
S.T.A.Y. ¥¥ (French)
Luxury dining with three-Michelin-starred
chef Alléno Yannick’s back-to-basics kitchen
concept, managed by the youthful team
of Maxime Gilbert as ‘Chef de Cuisine’
executing the quarterly menus, and Florian
Couteau working the ‘pastry library.’ Classic
dishes usually include dishes such as steak,
foie gras, rack of lamb, plus a spit roast and
grill for simple fine-dining.
> Daily 11:30am -2:30pm; 5:30pm-10pm; Sundays
11am- 4pm. Shangri La, Valley Wing, Level 1, 29
Zizhuyuan Road, Beijing 紫竹院路29号北京香格里拉
饭店 (6841 2211, Ext. 6727)
Temple Restaurant Beijing (TRB) ¥¥
(Contemporary Western) **
Setting is everything here, especially if
it’s fashioned inside a restored Buddhist
temple. The bold contemporary European
cuisine is fitting in majesty and the service
alone is worthy of worship.
> Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6–10pm. 23 Songzhusi
Temple, Shatan Beijie, Dongcheng District 东城
区沙滩北街嵩祝寺23号 (8400 2232, www.templerestaurant.com/)
Contemporary Western
Alfie’s ¥ (British)
What’s all this about, then? British
gastropub classics, (like pukker fish and
chips, RMB188), a swanky gentleman’s club
interior, and located in a chic modern art
gallery-cum-mall. That’s what, mate.
> Daily, 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-10pm, brunch served
on weekends, Parkview Green, 9 Dongdaqiao Lu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区东大桥路9号芳草地L1-22
(5662 8777)
Back Alley Bistro (American)
72
JUNE 2014
There’s not enough of this in Beijing: a cozy
joint offering top-notch ‘California-style’
cuisine at bang-on price points. A fresh,
revolving menu has everything from burgers (RMB 45/65) to braised oxtail (RMB138)
to seared scallops (RMB148).
> Tues-Sun 11am-2.30pm, 5-11pm. West side of
Jiezuo Dasha, Xingfucun Zhonglu (next to Frost
Nails), Chaoyang District 朝阳区幸福村中路(Frost旁
边)(6417 5430)
Caribeño (Latin)
Heavy Cuban influence, but there are
dished from all over the Latin continent
here. The Ropa Vieja (shredded beef on
potato) is excellent – as are the Mojitos.
> Daily 11:30am-9:30pm, 1/F, China Overseas Plaza,
8 Guanghua Dongli, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华东里8号中
海广场北楼1层 (5977 2789)
Chi (Organic, Fusion)
Hutong dining par-excellence, with organic
ingredients all locally sourced, from the
owners of neighboring Saffron.
> Daily, opens 10:30am, last order 9:30pm, 67
Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区五道
营胡同67号 (6445 7076)
Grill 79 (Steak)
With views this good, Grill 79 would probably make it onto the list even if the food
was terrible. It’s something of a bonus then
that the kitchen is superb, and supported
by one of the most extensive wine lists in
town.
> Daily 6.30-10.30am, noon-2pm, 6-10pm. 79/F,
China World Trade Center Phase 3, 1 Jianguomenwai
Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国门外大街1号国贸
大酒店79楼 (6505 2299 ext 6424)
Missa (European) *
Whether it is the tender, imported cuts of
meat or the long list of expertly made and
creative cocktails going down your gullet,
you can’t really go wrong at this refined
relaxed lounge like restaurant. Highly
recommended
> Daily 6pm-late. 32-33, 3/F, Bldg 3, Sanlitun Village
North, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯Village北区3
号楼3层32-33 (137 1851 7917)
Mosto ¥ (European, South American)
A perpetually busy lunch and evening spot,
thanks to chef Daniel Urdaneta’s skill for
modernising South American-style dishes
like ceviche and risotto in his open kitchen.
> Sun-Thu noon-2.30pm, 6-10pm; Fri-Sat noon2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. 3/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园3
层 (5208 6030)
Starfish ¥ (Seafood) *
Beijing’s leading oyster bar, Starfish is
among the very best seafood restaurants
in town. Renowned for its friendly, warm
atmosphere, this stylish low-key restaurant
is great for late-night dates, or just hanging
out along the large wooden bar and enjoying an Irish rock with a craft beer.
> 22-1 Dongzhimen Wai, Chaoyang District 朝阳区
东直门外大街22-1号(6416 5499)
Stuff’d (Contemporary Western)
The concept of Stuff’d is to simply stuff
one kind of food in another. From sausage
calzone pizzas (RMB68) to scotch eggs – it
all works. On-site micro brewery a bonus.
> Wed-Mon, 11:30am-2:45pm, 6-10pm, 9 Jianchang
Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区箭厂胡同9号
(6407 6308)
Yi House (Contemporary Western)
Nestled in the confines of the 798 Art
District, Yi’s great tasting brunch is bettered
only by their wide range of cocktail concoctions. Sundays offer jazz brunches with
lobster and champagne. Our 2013 readers’
choice for Restaurant of the Year.
> Daily 11am-3pm, 6pm-12am. 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu, 798
Yishu Qu, No.1 706 Houjie, Chaoyang District 朝阳
区酒仙桥路2号院798艺术区706后街1号 (6436 1818)
Café/Deli/Sandwich
Allday’s (Café)
Japanese-owned Allday’s is an oasis of
calm just outside the hustle and bustle of
Sanlitun. Plenty of options for a caffeine
boost compliment a wide range of Western
staples from the kitchen.
> Daily 7am-11pm, Unit 1, Tongguang Plaza, 12
Nongzhanguan South Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳
区农展馆南里12号通广大厦1楼底商 (6538 9488)
Beiluo Bread Bar (Café)
This local hipster café favorite offers inhouse baked bread and sandwiches but
we usually go for the hand-pulled noodles.
Gets cozy at night.
> Tue-Sun 12-10pm. 70A Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng
District 东城区北锣鼓巷甲70号(近南锣鼓巷)(8408
3069)
Café Ricci (Contemporary Western,
Fusion)
An excellent example of how Italian sensibilities can meld peaceably into a Chinese
context, Ricci offers a range of fusion creations, like Sichuan spicy-chicken focaccia
(RMB45) and a spicy mocha coffee. It’s a
paradise for those with a sweet tooth, too.
> Daily 8am-9.30pm 1/F, Keji Dasha Tower D, Bldg
8, Tsinghua Science Park, 1 Zhongguancun Donglu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区中关村东路1号清华科技园8
号楼科技大厦D座1层 (8215 8826 http:>riccicafe.com)
Café Zarah (Café)
Red armchairs, table candles and a matching Gaggia machine harmonize the creamy,
minimalist interior of this cafe, popular
with young professionals. The Austrianstyle breakfast sets here are the real deal,
while Zarah’s coffee also trumps just about
any in town.
> Daily 9.30am-midnight 42 Gulou Dongdajie,
Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街42号 (8403
9807)
Element Fresh (Contemporary Western)
Another import from Shanggers, this is
boutique salads-and-sandwich lunching,
with somewhat questionable price tags.
The recent revamp also affected the latter.
> Daily Mon-Fri 10am-11pm, Sat-Sun 7am-11pm.
833, Building 8, 19 Sanlitun Village South, Sanlitun
Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯
Village南区8号楼833 (6417 1318)
MODO Urban Deli (Contemporary
Western)*
Yates Wine Lodge this is not. Unconventional and great fun, this compact eatery
was designed around an ever-changing
selection of fine wines. Serves up fresh
tapas style food and original finger foods.
The luxury sandwiches are fantastic for
picnics, with the smoked salmon and the
Cuban (RMB68), complete with crispy pork
belly, is one of the best sarnies ever.
Wagas (Contemporary Western)
Quality eats with minimal pretension. This
stylish, no-fuss Shanghai rival to Element
Fresh offers some of the best and most
affordable Western lunch options in town.
The zesty carrot-and-zucchini cake is a
crowd pleaser.
> Daily 8am-10pmS8-33, 3/F, 8 building, 19 South
Sanlitun Street, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯
Village南区三层 (6416-5829) Additional location in
The Kerry Centre (see www.online.thatsmags.com
for details)
American/BBQ/Grill
The Big Smoke
Taking the Home Plate BBQ concept and
upscaling was a gourmet masterstroke. Full
menu evenings-only (also delivers rotisserie
chicken via Uncle Otis).
> Daily Mon-Sat 11am-midnight, Sun 11am-10pm.
First Floor, Lee World Building (opposite Frost Nails),
57 Xingfucun Zhong Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区幸
福村中路 57号楼利世楼 (6416 5195, 6416 268,www.
uncle-otis.com)
Home Plate BBQ *
Scruffy looks and laid-back staff belie the
popularity of this entry-level brick-smoker
barbecue joint, that blossoms in the sunny
months. Pulled-pork sandwiches are the
favorites, followed by baby-back rib racks,
but lesser dishes like the rib tips, sides
and burgers are just as good. Beer and
bourbons are taken care of, too.
> Daily 11am-10pm. 35 Xiaoyun Lu courtyard
(20m north of Xiaoyun Lu intersection, first right),
Chaoyang District 朝阳区霄云路35号院过霄云路
路口,往北走20米,到第一个路口右转(5128 5584)
Additional location in Sanlitun Nan Jie
NOLA
N’Orleans finds a dark-wood home in the
leafy embassy area, with a jazz soundtrack,
shrimp and grits, gumbo, fried chicken,
jambalaya and decent-enough po’boys –
yes’m. Excellent Cajun snacks, craft beers
and cocktail also make NOLA a popular
watering hole. Great service comes as
standard.
> Mon-Fri 8am-11pm, Sat-Sun 10.30am-11pm. 11A
Xiushui Nanjie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区秀水南街11
号 (8563 6215)
Tim’s Texas BBQ
> Sun-Thu noon-10pm, Fri-Sat noon-10.30pm. 3/F,
Sanlitun Village South(close to Element Fresh), 19
Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路19号
三里屯Village南区3楼(近新元素) (6415 7207)
Moka Bros (Contemporary Western) *
Power bowls, salads and wraps are the kind
of fare on offer at this trendy Nali Patio
space, which also has a great selection of
cakes and pastries if you’re feeling more
indulgent.
> Sun-Thu 11am-10:30pm, Fri/Sat 11am-11:30pm,
B101b Nali Patio South, 81 Sanlitun Beilu Chaoyang
District 朝阳区三里屯路81号B101b南楼 ( 5208 6079)
Nasca Café
Colorful and quirky shopping mall style
café, with Amazonian coffee, teas and
there’s a decent range of sandwiches and
pizzas, available for delivery.
> Daily 11am-10pm, B1/F, City Mall, 1 Xinyuan Nanlu,
Chaoyang 朝阳区新源南路1号都汇天地购物中心B1
楼 (6592 4537) > Additional branches in Sanlitun
South; Volkswagen Building, Liangmahe (see online.
The Rug (Contemporary Western,
Organic)*
With ingredients supplied by local organic
farms like Dahe and De Run Wu, and an
emphasis on sustainability, this Chaoyang
Park café’s menu of locally milled bagels is
a hit with green types, bored foreign moms
and freelance Macbook types.
> 7.30pm - 11pm Daily. Bldg 4, Lishui Jiayuan,
Chaoyang Gongyuan Nanlu (opposite Chaoyang
Park South Gate), Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝阳公园
南路丽水嘉园4号楼(朝阳公园南门对面) (8550 2722) >
Additional location in Sanlitun Nan Jie
Vineyard Cafe on the River (British)
New Vineyard offshoot opposite of the Liangma River. Menu features British classics
like Fish & Chips and Bangers & Mash. The
breezy terrace is primed for a pint of the
handcraft beer or a carafe of Pimms.
>Daily Tu-Fr 1130am-3pm 6pm-12am kitchen
closes at 10pm, Sa-Su 1130am-3ppm 6pm-12am,
Liangmahe Nanlu, west side of Xindong Lu, across
the street from Yuyang Hotel, Chaoyang District, 朝
阳区亮马河南路新东路西侧渔阳饭店对面(8532 5335)
Who is Tim, you ask, and what’s his Texas
BBQ doing in Beijing? Providing all ya’ll
homesick ‘Murricans with the best damn
home-style briskets, ribs and steaks –
slow-cooked over a mesquite wood BBQ
– this side of the Rio Grande. Tex Mex and
Margherita’s recommended, partner.
> Daily 9am-midnight, Silk#2 building, 14
Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东大桥路14
号秀水2号院 (6591 9161)
Union Bar and Grill
The definitive US-style diner in Beijing, Union’s extensive menu – from eggs Benedict
to baby back ribs – covers all bases and
hours, served by friendly staff. The warm
atmosphere tempts many to stay all day.
> Mon-Fri 11am-11pm,Sat-Sun 11am-midnight. S631, 3/F, Bldg 6, Sanlitun Village South, 19 Sanlitun
Village南区6号楼3层S6-31(6415 9117)
The Woods *
New York native-owned, Manhattan-style
restaurant, tucked in amongst the skyscrapers of CBD: you can’t get more Big Apple
than that.
> Daily 12pm-10pm, Central Park Tower 1, Suite 101,
No. 6 Chaowai Dajie, 朝外大街6号新城国际1号搂
101 (6533 6380)
Burgers
Blue Frog
This Shanghai hamburger franchise has
been keeping Americans in China obese
since it opened. Monday’s burger deal is
always packed.
> Daily 10.00am-late. Sanlitun: Level 3, S4 Tower,
81 Sanlitun Village, Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District
朝阳区三里屯路三里屯Village三层S4 (6417 4030)
Additional branches in Jiuxianqiao and U-Town (see
Listings
www.bluefrog.com.cn for details)
Burger Bar
Don’t be fooled by the American diner-style
interior, Burger Bar’s pedigree of bap
fillings include wagyu beef, foie gras and
truffles. Burger King this ain’t.
> Sun-Thu 11:30am-10pm, Fri/Sat 11:30am-midnight,
B2/F, Parkview Green, 9 Dongdaqiao Road 朝阳区东
大桥路9号侨福芳草地大厦地下二层 ( 5690 7000)
Chef Too ¥
With its crisp white tablecloths and service,
this upscale New York diner serves up some
of the classiest burgers in town.
> Tue-Fri 11am-1pm; Sat-Sun 9.30am-3pm; Tue-Sat
5.30pm-10pm. Opposite the West gate, Chaoyang
Park, Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝阳公园西门 (6591
8676)
Steak
29 Grill (Contemporary Western) *
Top-notch steak, along with just about every other cut of meat found in the barnyard
in this well-priced meat-eaters’ mecca.
> Tues-Sun 11:30am-11:30pm. 3/F Corad Beijing, 29
Dongsanhuan Beilu. Chaoyang District 朝阳区东三环
北路9号1层 (6584 6270)
Flamme (Contemporary Western)
> Daily midday-midnight, 55-7 Xingfucun Zhonglu,
Chaoyang District, 朝阳区幸福村中路55-7 (8488
8250)
Parnas ¥
Don’t be fooled by the Greek name – this
Nali Patio is true Gallic gastronomy, albeit
with a hint of Asian fusion. Nice terrace bar
on the roof.
> Mon-Thu 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-9:30pm; Fri/
Sat 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10pm; 1F, Nali Patio, 81
Sanlitun Bei Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯北路
81号那里花园一层 (5288 7665)
La Taverne ¥
Slick service helps this faux-rustic lunchtime
favourite into our list, with typical dishes
including salmon steak, ribs and salads. Dependable, slightly dull even, but solid fare.
> Daily noon-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. 1949 The Hidden
City, Courtyard 4, Gongti Beilu , Chaoyang District 朝
阳区工体北路4号院 (6501 8882)
Italian
Assaggi ¥ *
This fine Italian spot in the leafy embassy
district has one of Beijing’s best terraces for
summer dining. The tagliata steak is worth
a return visit.
> Daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-11:30pm. 1 Sanlitun
Beixiaojie, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北小街1号 (8454
4508)
Bene ¥ *
Chef Ricci will have you singing like a soprano with his pork ravioli and prize-winning
tiramisu. Excellent set menus (RMB588) and
extensive wine selection.
> Daily 11am-2.30pm, 5.30-10.30pm. Sheraton
Beijing Dongcheng, 36 Northeast Third Ring Road,
Dongcheng District 东城区北三环东路36号(5798
8995)
Expensive steaks are now invading Beijing.
Flamme (pronounced ‘Flame,’ apparently)
remains top value, however, especially on
2-4-1 Tuesdays, while bar staff maintain an
eclectic (and genuinely exciting) cocktail
menu.
> Daily 11am-10.30pm Sun-Thur; 11am-11pm FriSat. S4-33, Third Floor, Village South, 19 Sanlitun
VILLAGE南区3层S4-33室 (6417 8608): 269 Indigo
Mall, Jixianqiao Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙
桥路18号颐堤港商场269号 ( 8420 0270)
Morton’s of Chicago ¥¥ (American) *
Meat so tender the knife falls through it:
ritzy Morton’s deserves the worldwide
praise. Expensive, but where else are you
going to get steak this good? (Try the
RMB550 set menu if you want to save cash)
> Mon-Sat 5-11pm, Sun 5-10pm. 2/F, Regent Hotel,
99 Jinbao Jie, Dongcheng District 东城区金宝街99号
丽晶酒店二层 (6523 7777)
Steak Exchange Restaurant+Bar ¥¥ (Contemporary Western) *
The bill is hopefully on the company kuai at
this opulent eatery, where charcoal-grilled
cuts of 250-day, grain-fed Australian Angus
start from around RMB428 and merrily
spiral. But the meat is unquestionably succulent, and cooked exactly to order. Quality
seafood and gorgeous desserts, too.
> Daily 11.30am-2pm, 5.30-10.30pm.
InterContinental Beijing Financial Street, 11 Jinrong
Jie, Xicheng District 西城区金融街11号北京金融街洲
际酒店 (5852 5921)
Mexican/Tex Mex
Cantina Agave (Tex-Mex)
Great selection of burritos, tacos and 80+
imported tequilas. Spice up dishes with the
walk-up salsa bar and don’t leave without a
bite of the custardy flan.
>Sun-Thurs 11am to midnight. Fri–Sat 11am to 2am,
S4-32 South Block, Sanlitun Village, 19 Sanlitun
Lu,Chaoyang District, 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯
Village南区(6416 5212)
Cepe ¥
In a city inundated with Italian offerings,
Cepe manages to stand out thanks to it’s
attention to the smallest detail – everything
from the vinaigrette to the Parma ham
is import quality, and the wine is superb.
Consider it the culinary equivalent of a
finely tailored suit.
> Sanlitun Branch: daily 10.30am-3pm, 6-11pm.
1/F, 3.3 Mall, 33 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝
阳区三里屯路33号3.3服装大厦西北角底商(5136
5582) > Solana Branch: SA-48, 1/F, Bldg 3, Solana, 6
Chaoyang Park Road 朝阳公园西路6号,蓝色港湾3号
1层, SA-48 ( 5905 6106) La Pizza Buffet: 4F, Sanlitun
3.3 Mall, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯3.3服装大
厦4层 (5136 5990)
Tube Station
Nowhere does gigantic toppen-laden pizza
quite like Beijing, and these guys claim to
be the biggest in town.
> Sanlitun 3.3 Branch: Mon-Fri 10am-10pm, Sat/Sun
10am-11pm, delivery Mon-Thu 11:30am-10:30pm,
Fri-Sun 11:30am-11pm 3/F, 3.3 Building, No. 33
Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang District 三里屯北街33号
3.3服装大厦3层3008号 ( 5136 5571, delivery 8989
177) Additional branches in Gongti, Beida, Beitai,
Yayancun, Solana and Weigongcun, see www.
tubestationpizza.com.cn for details)
Spanish
Migas ¥ *
The boys at Migas have turned a concept
bar into a thriving Mediterranean restaurant, bar and party venue, and one of
summer’s rooftop destinations.
> Daily 10am-3pm, 5pm- late. 6/F, Nali Patio, 81
那里花园6层 (5208 6061)
> Daily, 11:30am-10:30pm, N3-47, 3/F, Building
3, Taikoo Li North, 11 Sanlitun Street, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区三里屯路11号院太古里北区N3-37和 47
商铺 (www.gaiagroup.com.hk/isola-beijing, reservations@isolabeijing.com; 6416 3499)
Mercante ¥ *
Old World family charm in an intimate
hutong setting. Time (and, occasionally,
service) slows with a rustic menu from Bologna offering an assortment of homemade
pastas and seasonal mains.
> Tue-Sun 6-10.30pm. 4 Fangzhuanchang Hutong,
Dongcheng District 东城区方砖厂胡同4号 (8402
5098)
Opera Bombana ¥
Head chef Umberto Bombana boasts three
Michelin stars to his name, earned at his
wildly successful Hong Kong restaurant
Otto e Mezzo. He’s the only Italian chef
to do so outside of his native land, and
certainly the only one in Beijing.
Pinotage ¥ (South African) *
A seasonal blend of Dutch, English
and regional African influences, this
contemporary and stylish eatery has an
impressive selection of fine import-quality
meats, and wines to match. The traditional
borewor ground beer-sausage (RMB100) is
tender and sweet, while the red-wine pork
tenderloin (RMB120) makes the trip out to
Shunyi worth it.
> Building 2, 2-105, 1st Floor Sanlitun SOHO, 8
Gongtibeilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体北路8号
三里屯soho2号楼2-105 (5785 3538/5785 3539) >
Additional location in Shunyi (see online for details)
Rumi (Middle Eastern)
Asian
Indian
Order the paella (their star dish) together
with some tapas and be automatically
transported to Spain. With homely
Mediterranean influences and a charming
management, Niajo is a prefect option to
enjoy a pleasant meal at the heart of
Sanlitun. Pro tip: a fantastic set-lunch deal
is also offered.
Ganges
Conveniently located above popular
Irish sports bar Paddy O’Sheas, this solid
Indian curry house provides the perfect
post-match culinary accompaniment. Or
put another way: it’s what you’ll be craving
after eight pints of beer.
> Daily 11am to 10.30pm. 2nd Floor, 28 Dongzhimen
Wai Dajie, Chaoyang District
> Daily 12.00am - 10.30pm. 3/F, Nali Patio, 81
那里花园3层 (5208 6052)
Dongzhimen Branch: 朝阳区东直门外大街28号2层
(6417-0900) Sanlitun Branch: 朝阳区工体北路13号世
贸百货1号楼2楼202室 (64160181)
German
See www.ganges-restaurant.com/en/ for more
locations.
Drei Kronen 1308 *
Authentic (in as much as any brauhaus
with a Filipino cover band can be) displays
of armour and brewing kits draw regular
evening crowds for the superb pork
knuckle (RMB148) and heavy-duty helles
(pale lager), wheat and dark beer (brewed
on-site, RMB48-108).
Paulaner Brauhaus
The grand old man of Beijing brauhauses,
Paulaner delivers the Teutonic goods in the
hands of lederhosen-clad staff from the
provinces. It can be pricey but is usually
worthwhile, especially during Oktoberfest.
> Daily 11am-1am. Kempinski Hotel, 50 Liangmaqiao
Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区亮马桥路50号凯宾斯基
饭店 (6465 3388 ext. 5732)
African/Middle Eastern
1001 Nights (Middle Eastern)
There’s no missing this beast of a Middle
Eastern on the way into Sanlitun. The
whole Arabic dining package is on offer
here, from Kebabs, to shisha to belly dancing shows between courses.
> Daily 11am-2am, 3-4 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳
区工体北路3-4号 (6532 4050)
At the higher echelon of Beijing pizzeria is
> Daily 11.30am-3pm, 6-10pm. 4-103, China View, 2
Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体东路2
号中国红街大厦4-103(8587 1255, 139 1141 5052)
> Daily 11.30am-12am, Gongti Beilu and Third Ring
Road 工体北路和三环内,兆龙饭店对面 (8454 3838)
Pizza
French
Ibn Battouta (Moroccan)
Hidden away in the depths of Gongti, this
charming little Moroccan eatery serves up
superbly authentic north Africa fare at a
modest price. Known for its excellent, attentive service, and cosy atmosphere.
Worlds away from the filth of nearby dirty
Bar Street, Rumi dishes out plentiful
helpings of traditional Persian stews and
tasty kebabs. Try the juicy Chicken Shish
kebab, the tastier cousin to cheap chuan’r.
> Daily 11am-2am. 1/F, Bldg 5, China View, Gongti
Donglu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体东路中国红街5
号楼1层(6503 5555)
> Daily 11am-midnight, 1/F, Just Make Bldg,
Xingfucun Zhonglu 幸福村中路杰作大厦1层 (6416
1715)
朝阳区三里屯后街同里2层 (6467 2961)
Niajo ¥ *
> Daily, 12pm-10:30pm; LG2-21 Parkview Green
Fangcaodi, 9 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东大
桥路9号侨福芳草地地下2层21号 (5690 7177)
La Pizza
> Daily 11am-11pm, Second Floor, Tongli Studio,
Sanlitun Houjie, Chaoyang District
> Daily Midday-2pm, 6pm-10pm. 4/F, Nali Patio, 81
那里花园 (5208 6188)
西城区金城坊东街1号北京金融街丽思卡顿酒店大堂
(6601 6666)
Isola Bar & Grill
Isola’s elegant design, even by Tai Koo Li
North standards, is classic Italian panache –
and so is the food. Beef carpaccio, burrata,
Strozzapreti (handed twisted pasta) are
all fantastic, but just as good is a classic
Margherita pizza.
and RMB58 kebab-lovers alike, Biteapitta
has the Middle-East mid-range market all
wrapped up in a fluffy pitta.
Agua ¥
Occupying the high end of Nali’s Spanish
invasion, Agua excels with reasonably
priced classics like suckling pig, chorizo
and jamon.
> Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. The RitzCarlton Financial Street, 1 Jinchengfang Dongjie,
Jinrong Jie, Xicheng District
El Gran Bocado (Mexican)
This unassuming little taquiera has a colorful menu of classic Mexican and Tex Mex
dishes, and one of the best nacho plates
we’ve had in Beijing.
O’Steak
A well-cooked steak in Beijng isn’t all that
rare anymore, and here we have affordable
but quality cuts. Don’t be fooled by the
Irish sounding name, not a pint of Guinness
in sight.
this Sanlitun goldfish bowl with a
wood-fired oven and Neapolitan manners.
Further branch in Solana and buffet
restaurant in Sanlitun 3.3
Biteapitta (Middle Eastern) *
Enjoyed by vegetarians (hummus, falafel)
Indian Kitchen
The go to curry house among Beijing’s
homesick Indian community, this ever
popular no-nonsense restaurant has built
up a solid reputation thanks to its wide
range of quality dishes and particularly
friendly service. Looking good after a
recent rennovation.
> Daily 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-11pm, 2/F 2 Sanlitun
Beixiaojie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯北小街2号
2楼 (6462 7255)
Raj
Tucked away in musty old building just underneath the drum tower, this curryhouse
may look Chinese but everything on the
JUNE 2014
73
Listings
menu is authenticI Indian, espcially the
rather fine naan.
Like many Beijing residents, this place started out in Wudaokou and it’s since made
a successful migration to Chaoyang. Great
range of veggie fare, reasonably priced and
they offer cooking classes as well.
> Daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-11pm, 31 Gulou Xidajie
Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼西大街31号 (64011675)
> Daily 10am-10pm 19 Rm 0260, 2/F, Bldg D,
Chaowai SOHO, 6B Chaoyangmenwai Dajie 朝阳
门外大街乙6, 朝外SOHO, D座2层0260 (5900 1288)
Additional location in Wudaokou (see www.online.
Three Colours Lotus
Three Colours Lotus’s team of chefs specialize in a northern Indian school of cooking,
and their menu is full of creamy curries
and succulent cuts of meat grilled in the
Tandoor oven.
> Silk Market branch: Daily 11am-2pm, 5pm10:30pm, Xiu Shui 2, 14 Dong Da Qiao Road,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区东大桥路14号秀水2号 (6586
5096) Yashow branch: 5F, Yashow Market, Gongti Bei
Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体北路雅秀商场内5层
South-East Asian
Cafe Sambal (Malaysian)
When it comes to Malay-style food in a
hutong, nowhere does it better. Admittedly,
it’s something of a niche category, but then
so is the food on offer. The spicy Kapitanstyle chicken is pricey, but worth it.
> Daily 11am-midnight. 43 Doufuchi Hutong (just
east of Jiugulou Dajie), Xicheng District西城区豆腐池
胡同43号旧鼓楼大街往东走(6400 4875)
Four Corners (Vietnamese, Fusion)
Chef Jun Trinh took a break from his celebrity TV work to host this part-Vietnamese
venue, serving up steaming bowls of pho
with zesty, fresh rolls, as well as a great bar.
> Daily 11am-midnight. 27 Dashibei Hutong (near
west end of Yandai Xiejie), Xicheng District 西城区大
石碑胡同27号烟袋斜街西口附近)((6401 7797)
Greyhound Café (Modern Thai/Fusion)
Greyhound Café originated in Bangkok offering Thai food with a twist and served in
a fashionable surrounds. Perfect for Tai Koo
Li Sanlitun then.
> Daily 11am-11pm, S1-30B, Building 1, Sanlitun
Road 19, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路19号1号
楼 S1-30B (64163439, http:>www.greyhoundcafe.
com.hk, (6416 3439)
Nyonya Kitchen (Malaysian, Nyonya)
This chain specializes in Nyonya style cooking – ostensibly Malaysian but with a mix
of Chinese, South-East Asian and European
influences resulting in lots of bold flavors
and bright colors.
Hidden away in the depths of the Sofitel
Hotel, this labyrinthine Japanese restaurant
of all private dining rooms has some
stunning food, and is the only place to
sample traditional Japanese paper hot pot
in Beijing.
> 6F Sofitel Wanda Beijing 100022 93 Jianguo Road,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国路93号索菲特万达北京
酒店6层 (6581 0072)
Inagiku *
This Beijing branch of one of Tokyo’s oldest and most celebrated restaurants is as
near to perfection as you’re likely to find.
Deceptively simple yet finely crafted, the
handmade Inaniwa udon (RMB 80) is not
to be missed.
> Daily 11am-3pm, 6-10.30pm. Rm 315, 3/F, Park Life,
Yintai Centre, 2 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区建国门外大街2号银泰中心悦生活3层
315室 (8517 2838)
Sushi Yotsuba **
It doesn’t come cheap (tasting menu
RMB1,000), but what would you expect
from some of the best sushi in town?
Buttery and meaty fatty tuna sashimi is a
cut above.
> Dongcheng branch: Tue- Sun 11.30am-11pm. 10
Qianliang Hutong Xixiang, Dongcheng District 东城
区钱粮胡同西巷10号 (8400 2699)
Lido branch: 2F, No.9-3, Jiangtai Xilu, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区将台西路9-3号2层 (8420 0998)
Sake Manzo *
> CBD: EB105, B1/F, China World Mall Phase
1, 1 Jianguomen Wai, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门
外大街1号国贸商城一期地下一层EB105 (6505
0376); Taiyanggong: Unit 10-11, 4/F, CapitaMall
Taiyanggong, Chaoyang 朝阳区凯德Mall太阳宫4层
10/11号 (8415 0863) www.nyonyakitchen.com
Veggie Table (Western, Asian) *
Proving that Beijing-style vegetarian cuisine
is by no means the exclusive preserve of
Buddhist monks and soppy Jack Johnson
fans, this superbly honed eatery offers
some of the very best sandwiches – vegetarian or otherwise – found anywhere in
the city.
> Daily 10.30am to 11.30pm (last order 10.30pm) 19
Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区五道
营胡同19号. (6446 2073)
bars
TOP 40 BARS AND CLUBS
About This guide represents our
editors’ top 40 picks, and includes some
That’s Beijing advertisers. Bars rated(*)
have been personally reviewed by our
experts, and scored according to the
cuisine, experience and affordability.
Given Beijing’s lack of white sand beaches
and ladyboy bars, Purple Haze has to make
do for the best Thai experience in town.
Has all the classics like veggie spring rolls
(RMB40), papaya salad (RMB46) and curries
(RMB44-180) – but our pick’s the seafood
pad Thai (RMB45).
> Daily 11am-11pm, 55 Xingfu Yicun, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区幸福一村55号 (6413 0899)
Susu (Vietnamese)
The first step is finding it. Follow that up
with a dreamlike renovated courtyard, extensive wine list and a listing of top-notch
Vietnamese curries, banh mi sandwiches,
stews, soups and la Vong fish.
> Tue- Sun 11.30am-11pm. 10 Qianliang Hutong
Xixiang, Dongcheng District 东城区钱粮胡同西巷10
号 (8400 2699)
Japanese
Hatsune ¥ (California Japanese)
Less a Japanese than a California roll joint,
Hatsune is now an old favorite among the
sake-swilling, sushi-swallowing set, though
less so among sashimi purists.
> Daily 11.30am-2pm, 5.30-10pm 2/F, Heqiao Bldg
C, 8A Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区光华路
甲8号和乔大厦C座2层 (6581 3939) >Additional locations in Sanlitun Tai Koo Li South; Kerry Centre Mall
(see www.online.thatsmags.com for details)
Hyoki ¥ (Japanese)
74
JUNE 2014
> Daily 6pm-midnight. 7A Tuanjiehu Beisantiao,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区团结湖北三条甲7号(6436
1608)
Korean
Ai Jiang Shan
This upscale seafood restaurant proves that
chargrill and composure can go together.
Their RMB58 bibimbap lunch is an absolute
bargain.
> Daily 11am-10pm, Sat and Sun until 9.30pm. 5/F,
LG Twin Towers (East Tower), 12 Jianguomenwai
Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国门外大街乙12号
双子座大厦东塔5层 (51096036/6037, for other locations visit http:>www.aijiangshan.com)
Saveurs de Coree
This upmarket Korean bistro has undergone
several changes in recent years, not least
its move away from the hipper-than-thou
confines of Nanluguxiang. Fortunately,
the menu remains largely intact. The Shin
Ramyun is among the best in Beijing, while
the Wagyu barbecued beef is almost too
good to be true.
> Daily noon-11pm. 128-1 Xiang’er Hutong,
Dongcheng District 东城区香饵胡同128-1号(5741
5753)
El Nido *
The first hutong hang-out to patent the
fridge-full-of-cheap-imports formula, El
Nido inspires a loyal following, particularly
in summer. The roast leg of mutton place
next door is one of the best locally.
> Daily 6pm-late, 59 Fangjia Hutong, Dongcheng
District 东城区方家胡同50号(158 1038 2089)
Enoterra
Looking for an affordable glass of wine
with that date? Look no further than Nali
Patio’s wine center. Although the food
leaves a bit to be desired, the selections are
vast, and if anything, you can enjoy a nice
cheese plate with that tart glass of vino.
> Daily 10am-2am, 4/F Sanlutun Nali Patio, 81
Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路81号那
里花园D405室 (5208 6076)
First Floor
First Floor is like that friend who’s too
popular to properly enjoy their company.
At weekends, it gets aggressively full, with
regulars and the passing tourist trade all
baying at the bar. A good place to meet
new friends, perhaps.
> Daily, 4pm-late, Sanlitun Beixiaojie, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区三里屯北小街 (6413 0587, first.floorbeijing.com)
Apothecary ¥ *
Golf ball-sized ice cubes, infusions, fussy
bar-tending and (allegedly) snooty staff
have made the Japanese-style Apothecary
bar a divisive choice to visit. See for yourself: they also serve quality Cajun food.
> 6pm-2am Sunday to Thursday, 6pm-4am Friday
and Saturday. 8 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang District,
Workers’ Stadium East Gate 朝阳区工体北路8号工人
体育场东门内 (6593 8227)
> Daily, 1pm-2am, 49 Jiaodaokou Nandajie,
Dongcheng District 东城区交道口南大街49号 (159
1025 6538))
> Tue-Sun 6pm-late (kitchen closes 1am). 3/F, Nali
Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯
路81号那里花园3层 (5208 6040)
> Daily 4pm-late. 3/F Friendship Youth Hostel, (100m
west of Sanlitun Houjie), Chaoyang District 朝阳区北
三里屯友谊青年酒店三层(3.3大厦西侧) (6415 9954)
The barmen here are serious about their
sake. Boasting one of the best stocked
drinks cabinets in town with over 60 different sakes on offer, this super-cool little
eatery is the perfect place to unwind after
a hard day’s toil. The sashimi is fresh to the
cut, and the beer-marinated chicken is out
of this world. One of the very best and least
appreciated restaurants in town.
> Daily 1pm-2am. 41 Zhonglouwan Hutong,
Dongcheng District 东城区钟楼湾胡同41号 (8403
3600)
8-Bit
Drinking alongside multiplayer retro gaming – why didn’t anyone do this sooner?
Megadrive, Super Nintendo, N64... some
real gems make up an ever-growing collection. Draft Kirin goes for a reasonable
RMB25 a glass.
The Bar *
This relative newcomer (sometimes known
as Third Floor) has years of savvy behind
it, meaning you can absolutely trust the
cocktail menu. Manager Jack Zhou and his
brother offer sterling service, while the
décor is handsome and low-key.
Purple Haze (Thai)
The location of this rooftop hutong bar,
in the historic (and threatened) Gulou
neighbourhood, makes it a great place to
hang out with a cool one and watch the
day go by.
Black Sun
There’s not a lot of choice for locals around
the Chaoyang Park area. With darts, pool,
food and pub quiz, Black Sun is probably
the best, though a depressing air does
occasionally pervade. A recent change of
management has helped this.
> Daily 5.30pm-3am. Chaoyang Park West Gate,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝阳公园西门 (6593 6909)
The Brick
A Cheers-style atmosphere ensures you’ll
find this neighbourhood drinking hole-inthe brick-wall faux dive bar either cliquey
or inclusive. The heavy-duty cocktails
(including the devastatingly boozy RMB80
Terminator) are probably needed for the
bizarre Wednesday pub quiz.
> Daily 4pm-late. Unit 2-11, Bldg 2, Tianzhi Jiaozi, 31
Guangqu Lu (northeast corner of Shuangjing Qiao),
Chaoyang District 朝阳区双井桥东北角广渠路31号院
天之骄子2号楼底商2-11 (134 2616 6677)
CICADA Ultralounge ¥
The latest – and perhaps only – ultralounge
in Beijing is fast becoming one of Sanlitun’s
trendiest bars. A Shanghai style lounge
bar with mixology credentials, the Whisky
Sours and Smoky Havana’s are worth the
cost.
> Mon-Sat, 6pm-late, 11 Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区三里屯路11号三里屯太古里北区N4-33
(6418 9898)
d.Lounge ¥ *
The fancy spelling tells you all you need to
know about this chic cocktail lounge in a
stunning archway location. Great on school
nights, this place can become horribly busy
at weekend.
Vegetarian
> Daily 8pm-late. Courtyard 4, Gongti Beilu (opposite
the Rock and Roll Club), Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体
北路4号 (6593 7710)
Tianchu Maoxiang (Asian)
Drum and Bell 鼓钟咖啡馆
Fubar
Slightly past its prime, this basement bar is
trying to rediscover the speakeasy pretence
that made the place its name. Live lounge
music and a vast amount of pours are starting to persuade people it’s succeeding.
Glen ¥
Experiences can vary at Glen (we’ve
endured poor service and drinks that are
scandalous at the price), which is located in
a decidedly downbeat compound. But whisky lovers have been known to swear by its
selections and dark, intimate atmosphere.
See for yourself.
> 6.30pm-2am. 203, 2/F, Taiyue Suites Hotel Beijing,
16 Nansanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区南三里屯
路16号泰悦豪庭2楼203室 (6591 1191) Glen Classic ¥
Tucked away in the grounds of Face hotel,
Glen Classic is a Japanese-owned whisky
bar where discerning drinkers can sink
into an arm-chair, glass in hand, and while
away the hours. Huge range of whiskies
and rums are personally selected by expert
owner Daiki Kanetaka – let him recommend
you something special.
> Mon-Sat, 7pm-2am, reservation required,
minimum spend RMB200, Face Hotel Courtyard, 26
Dongcaoyuan, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体南路东草
园26号 (6551 6788)
Great Leap Brewery 大跃啤酒 ¥ *
The bar that began the whole Beijing microbrewing frenzy (yes, frenzy) specializes
in idiosyncratic, local-style brews (RMB2540) with intriguing flavors – their Sichuan
peppercorn ale was memorably good.
Reservations used to be recommended
for their original hutong brewhouse, but
the opening of a wildly popular new pub
on Xinzhong Lu has shifted most drinkers
there instead.
> Gulou: 5pm-late, Tue-Fri, 2pm-late Sat-Sun 2-10pm,
6 DouJiao Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区豆角
胡同6号 (5717 1399) >Sanlitun: Daily 11:30am-2pm;
Sun-Thu 5pm-midnight, Fri /Sat 5pm-1am, B12
Xinzhong Street 新中街乙12号 ( 6416-6887, www.
greatleapbrewing.com)
Heaven Supermarket
A purgatory of bottles, bongs and bedraggled English teachers, Heaven sells the
cheapest alcoholic takeaways in town. You
can also hang around and appreciate the
afterlife (clientele) if you want. Caveat: the
food is straight from Hell’s own kitchen.
> Daily 12pm-4am. 12 Xindong Lu (next to The
James Joyce), Chaoyang District 朝阳区新东路16号
(6415 6513)
Hidden Lounge *
Although frustrating to find, Hidden
Lounge rewards the intrepid with good artwork and comfortable seating, suggesting
a Kasbah, plus well-made drinks at great
prices (wine from RMB100 a bottle, mix
drinks from RMB25). You’ll probably have
Listings
to call them to find it, though.
> Daily 6pm-1am. Room 101, Bldg 8, CBD Apartments,
Shuanghuayuan Nanli Erqu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区
双花园南里二区CBD公寓8号楼101屋 (8772 1613)
Ichikura ¥
One of the best-known ‘secrets’ in town,
this Japanese whisky bar tucked behind
a theater also offers terrific cocktails.
Although less expensive than several rivals,
you’ll want to indulge.
> Daily 7pm-2am. 2/F Chaoyang Theater, 36
Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东三环
北路36号朝阳剧场南侧 (6507 1107)
The Irish Volunteer
Everything – from the red-faced owner to
the grub – is authentically Irish: tinged with
alcoholism, doggerel and drunken regret.
A good place to down a pint and a pizza
before heading into town, then.
> Daily 9pm-2am. 311 Jiangtai Lu (opposite Lido
Hotel East Gate), Chaoyang District 朝阳区将台路311
号 (6438 5581)
The James Joyce *
With its roaring fire and portraits of Joyce,
the ‘JJ’ is a homing beacon to anyone craving an authentic Irish pub atmosphere (i.e.
without tacky Guinness-related gimmicks).
> Daily 11am-2am14 Xindong Lu, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区新东路14号 (6415 9125)
Jane’s & Hooch ¥ *
Acclaimed by some foreign press as one
of the best bars in the world (cough), this
not-so-plain Jane has been at the vanguard
of the South Sanlitun gentrification. It
serves RMB60-80 measures of your favorite
Prohibiotion-era hooches in a fanstastic
speakeasy atmosphere, with attentive
staff and unimpeachable cocktails. The
drawbacks? Weekends can be horriblky
busy – and there is a frankly absurd list of
house rules marring the menu.
> Daily 8pm-2am, Courtyard 4 Gongti Beilu, 工体北路
4号院 ( 6503 2757)
LIV Club
Another cavernous, kitsch and costly club –
exactly what Gongti needs, where bars are
already crammed next each other like shiny
stilettos on Imelda Marcos’s shelves. But
who cares, right? Spend it, flaunt it – buy
another pair.
> Mon-Sun 9pm - 5am. 6 Gonti Xi Lu, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区工体西路6号 (6708 9898)
Lucky Man ¥ *
The cognoscenti rate this quiet Gulou
whisky bar as one of the smartest to satisfy
your lust for the other ‘amber nectar.’
> Daily 7pm-1.30am. 157 Gulou Dongdajie,
Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街157 (6405
4167)
Luga’s
The closest Beijing has to a municipal
drinking hall, the four-storey Luga’s has
it all: terrible Tex-Mex, decent Italian, a
busy pool table, loud music, smoke, 400
flatscreen TVs all showing different sports…
yet still we like it (sort of). Basement bar
Taps provides a German-themed refuge,
with serve-your-own draught Paulaner and
quality food.
> Daily 11am-2am. 2/F, 7 Sanlitun Houjie, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区三里屯后街7号 (6416 2575)
MIX
A bit like a trip to the Forbidden City, Mix
is one of those places in Beijing you have
to experience before you leave. Not much
is forbidden in this underground hip-hop
disco palace and if you don’t leave with
hook-up in tow then you’re doing something very wrong.
> Daily 8pm-6am, Inside Worker’s Stadium North
Gate, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工人体育场北门内
6506 9888, 6530 2889, 150 1138 2219, mixclub@
sohu.com
Mai Bar *
Understated hutong hideaway with a long
list of some of the best cocktails in town.
> Daily 5pm-late, 40 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 东城
区北锣鼓巷40号 (6406 1871)
Mao Mao Chong **
The cocktails at Mao’s – such as their
sublime ‘Mala’ Mule, a Sichuan peppercorninfused vodka drink that’s a long way from
Moscow – are unique infusions using
local ingredients and know-how. Grungey
without being grimey, Mao’s eschews flash
while still keeping it real. And those pizzas.
> 12 Banchang Hutong, Jiaodaokou, Dongcheng
District 东城区交道口南大街板厂胡同12号 (6405 5718,
www.maomaochongbeijing.com)
Mesh ¥
Whether it’s an early evening cocktail or a
late-night infusion, Mesh’s moody interior
and underground soundtrack draws the
bright young things (and on LGBT Thursdays, quite a few old things, too).
> Daily 5pm-1am. Building 1, 11 Sanlitun Lu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路11号院1号楼 (6417
6688)
Modernista Old Cafe and Tapas Bar ¥ *
The hipsters love this little brasseriethemed absinthe bar. Regular live shows
mean it can often get pretty crowded. That
should piss off the hipsters, yet still they
keep coming.
> Tuesday to Sunday 12pm-2am. 44 Baochao Hutong,
Dong Cheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街宝钞胡同44号
(136 9142 5744)
Parlor
Learn a few quotes from Gatsby before
heading to this 20s Shanghai-style speakeasy and you’ll fit right in.
> Daily 6pm-2am, 39-8 Xingfuercun, Chaoyang 朝阳区
新东路幸福二村39-8 (8444 4135)
Q Bar ¥
Atop one of the city’s most average-looking
hotels is one of its classiest (and certainly
oldest) institutions. Be prepared to wait for
your drinks, though. The rooftop terrace
is one of the main lures, so in winter, you
may want to look elsewhere.
> Daily 5pm-2am. Top floor of Eastern Inn Hotel, 6
Baijiazhuang Lu (on the corner of Sanlitun Nanlu),
Chaoyang District 朝阳区白家庄6号朝阳门医院北门东
100米三里屯南路逸羽连锁酒店顶楼 (6595 9239, www.
qbarbeijing.com)
Revolution *
Sanlitun doesnt really do hipster bars but
if it did, this cramped ode to Maomorabilia
would be it. The East may be red but their
cocktails (RMB45) are fit for a Chairman.
> Daily, 12pm-late, west of Yashow, Gongti Bei Lu, 朝
阳区工体北路雅秀市场西侧 (6415 8776)
Salud 老伍 *
A Nanluoguxiang institution, with everything from cheap beer to (loud) live music
and low beams. The rum infusions are a
particular favorite on cold nights. Latest
branch in WDK a welcome addition to surrouding student dives.
> NLGX: Mon-Fri 3pm-late, Sat-Sun noon-late. 66
Nanluogu Xiang, Dongcheng District 东城区南锣鼓巷
66号 (6402 5086)
> Wudaokou: 2/F, Qijixin Building, Zhanchunyuan
Xilu 展春园西路奇蓟鑫大厦南侧2层
Slow Boat Brewery Taproom *
This popular microbrewery finally got its
own comfortable location in Dongcheng’s
hutong district. Quality ales (such as the
vanilla stout (RMB55) or crisp Dragon Boat
Ale (RMB25), heated floors and a kitchen
round out the deal.
> Mon Closed, Tues-Wed: 4pm-12am, Thur-Fri:
5pm-1am, Sat: 2pm-late, Sun: 2-10pm. 56 Dongsi
Batiao,Dongcheng District 东城区东四八条56号
(6538 5537)
The Tree
A cozy stalwart of the Beijing bar scene,
you’ll find wood-fired comfort pizza, beer
aplenty and a hearty, mature atmosphere.
Has two neighborhood offshoots: By the
Tree (brickwork, pool, old man’s pub) and
Nearby the Tree (live music, two floors).
> Daily noon-2am. 100m west of Sanlitun Bar Street,
Youyi Youth Hostel, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里
屯酒吧街往西100米友谊旅馆后面三里屯医院东面
(6415 1954)
Twilight ¥ *
A downtown version of Sanlitun mainstay
Apothecary, complete with mood jazz and
those premium cocktails, this Japanese
whisky bar makes you feel as far away from
the busy boulevards whizzing below as
you’d want.
> Daily 6pm-2am. 3/F, villa 5 east Jianwai SOHO,
Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东
三环中路39号建外SOHO东区5号别墅3层 (5900 5376)
Vics
Separated at birth from its identical twin
brother, Mix, this is the definition of Gongti
sweatbox meat-market chic at its very
finest. The Chinese love it – as do moody
Russians and jailbait students, helping Vics
to become one of the most infamous clubs
in the capital.
> Daily 8:30pm late, Inside Worker’s Stadium North
Gate, Chaoyang 朝阳区工人体育场北门内 (5293
0333)
XIU ¥¥
While Thursday’s Ladies Nights attracts
the sort we’d sooner avoid, XIU is beloved
among aspirational white-collar Chinese,
wooed by its sprawling chic-ness and
playboy clientele. A lively house band keeps
you indoors, but a superb terrace backons
you otherwise: a fantastic midweek drinking venue in the summer.
> Daily 6pm-2am. 3/F, villa 5 east Jianwai SOHO,
Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东三
环中路39号建外SOHO东区5号别墅3层 (5900 5376)
Hotel Bars
Atmosphere ¥¥
Beijing’s highest bar, on the 80th floor of
the 1,082-ft China World Tower, offers 300+
swanky cocktails from RMB65 with 360-degree views of the 700AQI PM2.5.
> Mon-Fri noon-2am, Sat and Sun noon-4am. 80/F,
China World Summit Wing, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国门外大街1号北京国贸大
酒店80 (6505 2299 ext. 6433)
Centro ¥
Although it’s no longer quite the go-to
place for beautiful people it once was, Centro still draws a cute crowd with its nightly
jazz performaces, spacious and recently
renovated lounge areas and classic drinks
like the blue-cheese martini.
> Open 24 hours. 1/F, Kerry Hotel, 1 Guanghua Lu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区光华路1号北京嘉里大饭店
1层 (6561 8833)
China Bar ¥¥
Top views from the 65th floor and flash
drinks are the attractions on offer at this
hip hotel bar.
> Sun-Thu 5pm-1am, Fri-Sat 5pm-2am. 65/F, Park
Hyatt, 2 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝
阳区建国门外大街2号柏悦酒店65层 (8567 1838/40)
Xian ¥
This enlongated bar space makes a nice
spot for refreshment after a day spent
shopping at neighboring Indigo.
> Sun-Thu 5pm-1am, Fri-Sat 5pm-2am, 1/F, EAST
Beijing, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥22
号北京东隅酒店一层 (8414 9810, www.xian-bar.com)
Sports Bars
Cuju *
This tiny sports bar is frequently packed
with NFL fans but don’t expect rowdy jocks.
Great Moroccan food and a connoisseur’s
selection of rums and beers lure a more
sophisticated set. It’s popular with the
owner’s friends but all are welcome.
> 28 Xiguan Hutong, off Dongsibeidajie
dancers and oddly-friendly Russian women.
Timed right, a visit can be raucous fun, with
bottles of spirits from around RMB200,
cocktails under RMB50 (including the
absinthe-based Flaming Armageddon)
and regular floor shows. Best to avoid this
cavernous slice of underground kitsch after
midnight, though.
> Daily 7pm-6am. 19 Ritan Beilu, Chaoyang District
朝阳区日坛北路19号 (8561 3988)
Dada *
It hasn’t been on the Beijing scene for
too long, but already Dada is the hippest
hangout in town. Their cosy Gulou confines
under rock house Temple offer an intimate
place to nod along to an eclectic range of
all things electro from the best names on
the underground scene.
> Daily, 9pm-late, Rm 101, Bldg B, 206 Gulou Dong
Dajie, Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街206号B
栋101室 (183 1108 0818)
Lantern *
Founded by now-defunct Acupuncture
Records, Lantern is a beacon of light in the
strip of truly ghastly nightclubs and bars
known as ‘Gongti.’ Serious about its music,
it also makes good drinks and attracts
international electronica DJs.
> Thurs-Sat 9pm-6.30am. 100m north of Worker’s
Stadium West Gate, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工人体
育场西门向北100米(139 119 77989)
Maggie’s
A notorious sausage fest (we refer, of
course, to the hot-dog stand outside),
Maggie’s has been providing its special
comforts for so long, it’s practically a timehonored Beijing brand – although it’s also a
bastion of Mongolian culture.
> Sun-Thur 8pm-4am, Fri-Sat 8pm-5am, Ritan Park
South Gate, Chaoyang District 朝阳区日坛公园南
门 (8562 8142)
School Bar
Crap drinks and regular, unscheduled
fights: no wonder the cool kids adore this
alternative livehouse/ DJ bar, founded by
Beijing and Shanghai rock n’ rollers.
> Daily 8pm-late. 53 Wudaoying Hutong, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区五道营胡同53号 (6402 8881, 6406
9947)
细管胡同28号东四北大街 (6407 9782)
The Den
At the opposite end of the 24-hour drinking spectrum from Centro, The Den is a
seedy sports joint that starts off sedate and
grows steadily sadder as night turns to day.
It can get rough and ready come dawn.
Solid (cheap) menu, good location and
those opening times earn it a place.
> Open 24 hours. 4 Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区工体东路4号城市宾馆正门旁边
The Local *
Formerly Brussels, this beery bar has come
into its own, with large (yet strangely
unobtrusive) screenings of sports and
political events, a pub quiz, quality fare and
a nice selection of draughts and cocktails.
Try the Bourbon Street Ice Tea – you won’t
need another.
> Daily 11-2am. 4 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工
体北路4号院 (6591 9525)
Paddy O’Shea’s
Owner Karl Long has airlifted an entire
Irish theme pub, including residents, from
a council estate in Limerick and gently
deposited it in central Beijing. With plenty
going on, including pub quiz and sports,
no one seems to have noticed.
> Dongzhimen: Daily 10am-late, 28 Dongzhimenwai
Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东直门外大街28号
(6592 6290)
> Sanlitun: 2/F, Tongli Studio, Sanlitun Back Street
三里屯北路43号同里二层 (6415 0299)
V Sports
Spacious, comfortable, huge screens and
no rowdy drunken cretins, V Sports makes
a claim for the champion of Beijing sports
bars.
> Daily 5:30pm-6am, Gongti North Gate East side,
Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北门内东侧 (5293 0333)
Nightclubs
The Bar at Migas ¥
A place to dance and prowl, perhaps, rather
than a drinks destination, TBAM, as no one
calls it, focuses on upscale local DJs to get
the party started. Good-enough cocktails
range from RM55-70 but mostly it’s about
the music, man.
> Sunday to Wednesday 6pm-2am, Thursday to
Friday 6pm-late. 6/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路81号 (5208-6061)
Chocolate ¥
It’s impossible to discuss Chocolate without
mentioning gold leaf, dwarves, cabaret
galleries
798 Art District Picks
Pace Beijing
With locations in New York, London and
Beijing hosting the likes of Zhang Xiaogang, Yue Minjun, Robert Rauschenberg,
Mark Rothko, Kiki Smith and Sol LeWitt,
Pace inhabits Bauhaus-style buildings 798 is
idealized for. Go there!
> Free. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm.798 Art District, 2
Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路2号
大山子艺术区 (5978 9781, www.pacegallery.com)
Space Station
Not often shown in 789’s sea of elites,
Space Station presents a younger generation of domestic artists. Exhibitions tend to
have a good curatorial understanding of
space and high-quality 2D work.
> Free, Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 4 Jiuxianqiao Rd798 Art
District, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号798艺术
区中一街 (5978 9671)
Ullens Center for Contemporary Art
Filling the largest factory space in 798 with
Chinese and international art, the UCCA has
the curatorial power and financial backing
to put together some of Beijing’s most
impressive exhibitions.
> RMB10, free Thursdays. Tues-Sun 10am-7pm. 798
Art District, 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝
阳区酒仙桥路4号798艺术区 (5780 0200, www.ucca.
org.cn)
Caochangdi Art Village
Chambers Fine Art Beijing
With its compeer gallery in New York,
Chambers is a matriarch with extensive
roots in the local-studio scene that allows
Big Apple headhunters to cull next generation avant-garde and provide a stepping
stone to international recognition.
> Free. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. Red No.1-D, Caochangdi,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区草场地红一号D座 (5127
3298, www.chambersfineart.com)
White Space Beijing
There are no restricting on the art this gallery supports, leading to some of the area’s
more perplexing exhibitions. Always fun
and on the pulse of vitality, though empirical value is pushed to an extreme.
> Free. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 255 Caochangdi, Airport
Service Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳区机场辅路草场
地255号(8456 2054, www.whitespace-beijing.com)
JUNE 2014
75
Listings
Citywide Picks
Arrow Factory
This space is one of a kind in Beijing, an
independently run alternative space in the
hutong of Beijing’s center. Showing young,
experimental artists, Arrow only takes
up about 15sqm and is viewable 24/7. As
a backlash against artists being pushed
outside the city limits, this space tries to
reinstall art inside an urban setting so
everyday experience and creativity remain
intertwined.
> Free. Everyday 24hours. 38 Jianchang Hutong,
Dongcheng District 东城区箭厂胡同38号 (www.arrowfactory.org.cn)
CAFA Museum
Attached to the northeast corner of the
Central Academy of Fine Art, architect Arata
Isozaki built a slate-rock shell to house the
museum’s 13,000+ collection of modern
to contemporary art. Opened in 2008,
exhibitions range from Chinese Modern
masterworks to current avant-garde
experimental.
> RMB10. Tues-Sun 9am-5.30pm. No. 8 Huajiadi Nan
Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区花家地南街8号中央美术
学院美术馆 (6528 2022, www.cafamuseum.org)
Today Art Museum *
As China’s first non-profit, non-governmental art museum, this institution embodies
the country’s 20th-century leap to develop
academic and progressive exhibitions.
Opened in 2002, Chinese superstars and
university prospects all get wall space here.
> RMB10. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. Building 4, Pingod
Community, No.32 Baiziwan Road, Chaoyang District
朝阳区百子湾路32号苹果社区4号楼今日美术馆 (5876
0600, www.todayartmuseum.com)
Independent cinemas
Broadway Cinematheque MOMA *
Opened in 2009, this arthouse film venue
boasts the largest screens for independent
cinema in Beijing. It has three theaters with
a total of 400 seats and a 300-sqm cafebookstore, aptly named Kubrick.
state-of-the-art air-supported structure for
all-weather year-round indoor tennis, with
an advanced lighting system and controlled
climate. Ideal for peeps looking to perfect
their service and batting a few balls.
> Nongzhan Nanlu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区农南路
1号朝阳公园网球中心(4006406800/ 65958885,www.
broadwell.cn1)
DNA Fitness Studio
Catering for both athletes and normal folks,
DNA Fitness Studio specializes in one-onone personal training, weight loss, spine
care, body building and more, with personalized classes and training systems.
> Mon-Fri, 10am-9pm.Unit 1135, 3F, Bldg 11, Jianwai
SOHO, 39 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District
朝阳区东三环中路建外SOHO西区11楼3层 (5869 1607)
Luxura Tanning Center
This tanning salon has some of the city’s
best state-of-the-art tanning beds, all
imported from Europe. For the sexiest tan
possible, get custom-made tanning tips
from the well-trained staff.
> Daily, 10am-10pm. 1) Rm 307, Bldg 4, Jianwai Soho
39 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District朝阳
区东三环中路建外SOHO西区4楼307室(5900 0427,
www.luxura.net) 2) 5005, 5/F, 3.3 Sanlitun, Chaoyang
District朝阳区三里屯3.3大厦5层5005号 (5136 5186,
www.luxura.net)
Lily Nails
A long-time favorite among locals and
expats alike, Lily Nails is much more than a
nail spa; they have a variety of pampering
treatments and waxing services too.
> Daily, 10am-10pm. 1) 2 Ginza Mall, 48
Dongzhimenwai Dajie (southeast of Dongzhimen
Bridge), Dongcheng District东城区东直门外大街48号
东方银座2楼(东直门桥东南侧) (8447 7178); 2) Shop
2049, 2/F, 3.3 Shopping Center, 33 Sanlitun Beijie,
Chaoyang District朝阳区三里屯北街33号3.3大厦2层
2049号 ( 5136 5829, 136 8148 3308)
Yihe 42° Hot Yoga
> RMB30-120. Mon-Sun 11am-10pm. F3, Building
T4, The North Area, MOMA, 1 Xiangheyuan Lu,
Dongcheng District 东城区东直门香河园路1号当
代Moma北区T4座 (8438 8258 ext. 8008, www.bccinema.cn)
Bookstores
The Bookworm *
This glass cube looks over Sanlitun Village,
providing a cozy atmosphere for browsing
bibliophiles. The Western bookstore, library, film house, bar, bistro-cafe and event
space always has a cultured evening on its
shelves for both adults and kids.
> Daily 9am-2am. Building 4, Nan Sanlitun Road,
Chaoyang District, Beijing 三里屯南街4号楼 (6586
9507, www.beijingbookworm.com)
Page One
The go-to shop for new releases and special
requests. With sister venues in Hong Kong,
Taiwan and Singapore, and two locations in
Beijing, its network allows for fresh authors
whilst upholding an extensive collection
of titles.
> Daily 10am-9pm. Shop 3B 201, Zone 3 China World
Mall, No.1 Jian Guo Men Wai Avenue, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区国贸商城三期地下二层3B201 (8535
1055, www.pageonegroup.com)
Page One Indigo. Shop LG50, INDIGO, 18 Jiuxianqiao
Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路18号颐堤港商业
中心B1楼50号(8426 0408, www.pageonegroup.com)
BEAUTY & FITNESS
Alona Pilates Studio
Pairing up traditional Pilates with an innovative, full-body workout, Alona Pilates
offers classes designed to tone and whip
you into shape fast. It also provides a
personalized experience for all its students,
regardless of fitness, strength and
flexibility levels.
> Daily, 7.30, late. 5/F at Heavenly Spa by Westin, 1
Xinyuan Nanlu, Chaoyang District
朝阳区新源南路1号威斯汀酒店五层 ( 139 1029 0260,
www.alonapilates.com)
Broadwell International Tennis Academy
Located inside Chaoyang Park’s Tennis
Center, this indoor club boasts a complete
76
JUNE 2014
California Fitness Beijing Club
California Fitness Beijing’s Group X program
is among the best in the region, and with
membership you have access to over 150
weekly Group X classes and a team of
professional personal trainers in Asia. Your
membership also includes free towel usage
and a fitness assessment.
>South Tower, L4, 9 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District
4008-100-988 www,californiafitness.com
Cycle China Inc. 北京非常之旅
Cycle China provides organized cycling and
hiking tours in and aroundBeijing as well
as longer tours throughout China. Some
of their more popular tours take cyclists
through the Olympic Green, Tian’anmen
Square, and Beijing’s traditional hutongs.
>12 Jingshan East Street, Dongcheng District 东城区
景山东街12号 (6402 5653 Mobile: 13911886524, reserve@cyclechina.com or cyclechina@hotmail.com)
DENTAL
Arrail Dental
Affiliated with the University of Pennsylvania, Arrail Dental has access to top-class
equipment. Its well-trained staff, multiple
locations across town and excellent facilities make it one of the best dental providers in Beijing. English-speaking staff. Dental
services including examinations, whitening,
root-canal treatment, orthodontics and
implants.
> 1) Rm 201, the Exchange-Beijing, 118B Jianguo Lu,
Chaoyang District朝阳区建国路乙118号国贸桥东南
角京汇大厦201室 (6567 5670); 2) Rm 208, Tower A,
CITIC Building, 19 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang
District朝阳区建国门外大街19号国际大厦A座208室
(6500 6473); 3) Rm 308, Tower A, Raycom Info Tech
Park 2 Kexueyuan Nanlu, Haidian District海淀区中关
村科学院南路2号融科资讯中心A座308室 (8286 1956);
4) Rm 101, Bldg 16, China Central Place, 89 Jianguo
Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区建国路89号华贸中心公
寓16号楼101室 (8588 8550/60/70); 5) 1/F, Somerset
Fortune Garden, 46 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang
District朝阳区亮马桥路46号燕莎东侧盛捷福景苑1层
(8440 1926)
Tic Tac Hair Salon
Trendy, artsy and welcoming, Tic Tac is
one of Beijing’s best-kept secrets and a
real beauty gem. Staff are friendly and
multilingual (we counted five last time).
A shampoo, cut and blow-dry starts at
RMB200 and goes to RMB780.
> Daily, 10am-9pm. Suite 2-06, Tower AB, The Office
Park, 10 Jintong Xilu, Chaoyang district朝阳区金桐
西路10号远洋光华国际AB座2层06单元 (8590 6899,
www.tictac-hair.com)
HEALTH SERVICES
Amcare Women’s & Children’s Hospital
With a zero waiting-time policy, top-quality
inpatient facilities, home visits, night services and transportation assistance, Amcare
provides a trustworthy experience. Englishspeaking services include pediatrics,
gynecology and obstetrics.
> 9 Fangyuan XiLu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区芳园西
路9号 (6434 2399, 24hr hotline 800 610 6200, www.
amcare.com.cn)
Beijing International Medical Center
(IMC)
Established in 1993, the International Medical Center-Beijing counts on an expert team
of foreign doctors, offering a wide range of
medical services, including family medicine,
psychological services, dental, ob/gyn,
pediatrics and TCM. Drop-in services for
travelers; x-rays and ultrasounds are also
available. English, Farsi, Japanese, Chinese,
Arabic and Russian spoken.
> 24hours. Room S106/111 Lufthansa Center, 50
Liangmahe Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区亮马桥路
50号燕莎中心写字楼1层S106 (6465 1561/2/3, 6465
1384/28, www.imclinics.com)
Beijing HarMoniCare Women and Children’s Hospital 北京和美妇儿医院
United Family Shunyi Dental Clinic
The Beijing United Family Dental Clinic in
Shunyi is a satellite of the main hospital
in Lido (which has its own dental clinic
onsite). A comprehensive range of services
are at hand, including restorative dentistry
and cosmetic dentistry. Call ahead for all
appointments.
Instituto Cervantes
Showing popular independent films from
Latin American Directors monthly, the
Instituto Cervantes is a forum of Spanishspeaking culture that also hosts public art
exhibitions and lectures. They even have a
video library!
> Prices vary. Daily 7am-10pm.1A Gongti Nanlu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体南路甲1号 (5879 9666,
www.pekin.cervantes.es)
> www.heyrobics.com, info@heyrobics.com
> 818 Pinnacle Plaza, Tianzhu Real Estate
Development Zone, Shunyi District北京和睦家医院牙
科诊所, 顺义区天竺开发区荣祥广场818 (8046 1102)
Counting on certified Bikram yoga teachers,
Yihe 42° Hot Yoga provides three locations
with a calm, relaxing and clean
environment for people from all walks of
lives to learn and grow through the regular
practice of Hot Yoga. This is a place where
you can dedicate time for yourself, relax
your mind and restore your strength.
> Daily, 10am-8pm. 1) 3/F, No. 2 South Building,
Blue Castle, Dawang Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区大
望路蓝堡国际中心南写2座3层 (8599 7395/96, www.
yh42.com); 2) 3/F, Bldg. 14, Solana, No. 6 Chaoyang
Gongyuan Xilu Chaoyang District朝阳区朝阳公园
西路6号,蓝色港湾14号,三层 (5905 6067/77, www.
yh42.com) ; 3) 3/FA Shimao Plaza 13 Gongti Beilu
Chaoyang District朝阳工体北路新中西里13号巨石
大厦3FA
Yoga Yard
Whether you’re looking to develop your
spiritual wellbeing, body toning or just
socialize with the hip young crowd, Yoga
Yard will have the right class for you.
> Daily, 7am-9.30pm. Yoga Yard, 6/F , 17 Gongti Bei
Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区工体北路17号6层 (6413
0774, www.yogayard.com)
Sport
Fine Yoga
This airy studio offers a diverse range of
style and classes, including Ashtanga,
Hatha, Anusara, soft Yin and Hot yoga.
Teachers are top notch and international,
and classrooms spacious and bright, with
stylish, clean changing-rooms. Classes
taught in both Chinese and English.
> Mon-Fri 7am-9:30pm, Sat- Sun. 10am-6pm.16/F,
Tower 2, Blue Castle International Centre, 3 Xi
Dawang Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区西大望路3号蓝
堡国际中心2号楼16层 (85999566/ 85997702)
Heyrobics
“Sweat like a Swede!” they say with
annoyingly smug grin and toned abs.
The only fitness craze worth following in
Beijing, Heyrobics is all about a punishing full-body workout set to pumping
beats – not forgetting the fluorescent spandex. Differing classes for all
abilities, check online for the full schedule.
SDM Dental 固瑞齿科
The full spectrum of dentistry. Services
include teeth cleaning, root-canal treatment, porcelain crowns, dental implants,
orthodontics, cosmetic dentistry, fillings,
pediatric dentistry, extraction, teeth-whitening and veneers. Credit cards accepted.
> www.sdmdental.com**Mon-Fri 9am-8pm. CBD/
Guomao>2/F,NB210, China World Shopping Mall,
1 Jianguomenwai Dajie建外大街1号国贸商城地下2
层 Tel:6505-9439/31/93**Mon-Fri 9am-8pm.Olympic
Area>F-0186B Sunshine Plaza, 68 Anli Lu(east of
Sunshine Plaza)亚运村安立路68号阳光广场东侧 .
Tel: 6497-2173,6498-2173**Mon-Sun 10am-19pm.
Shunyi>LB07-08, No.99 Euro Plaza, YuXiang Road.北
京顺义区天竺镇裕翔路99号欧陆广场LB07-08号.Tel:
8046-6084**Mon-Fri 9am-8pm. Sanyuanqiao>FC222,
21st Century Hotel, 40 Liang Maqiao Lu亮马桥40号
21世纪饭店2层 Tel: 6466-4814, 6461-2745**MonFri 9am-8pm.Haidian>4076B, 4/F, New Yansha
Mall, Yuanda Lu远大路金源燕莎购物中心Mall4层
4076B Tel:8859-6912/13**Mon-Sun, 10am-7pm
Guomao>Rm 5, 3/F, North Tower, China Overseas
Plaza, 8 Guanghua Dongli. 北京朝阳区光华东里8号中
海广场北楼3层05号.Tel: 5977-2488
HAIR SALONS
Eric Paris Hair Salon
With several well-located Beijing branches,
this salon is still most expats’ default
hairdresser. It targets high-end consumers
seeking luxury and beauty services, including tanning, waxing and manicures.
> Daily, 10am-8pm. 1) 43 South Sanlitun Beijie,
Chaoyang District朝阳区三里屯北街南43号 (135
0137 2971; www.ericparis.com ); 2) 1/F, Jiali Center,
1 Guanghua Lu朝阳区光华路1号嘉里中心1楼 (139
1179 8376;)
Tony & Guy
A favorite of many Beijing expats, the
trendy British chain features international products, knowledgeable (generally
somewhat English-speaking) staff, and a
never-ending stream of well-heeled hip
clientele. Cuts run the gamut from basic to
haute coiffure, depending on which grade
of stylish you select.
> Daily, 10am-9pm. LG 41, INDIGO, 18 Jiuxianqiao Lu,
Chaoyang District朝阳区酒仙桥路18号颐堤港地铁层
41号 (8426 0688, for other branches see)
Wi-Fi available. Chaoyang: 2 Xiaoguan Beili, Beiyuan
Lu北苑路小关北里甲2号. Tel: 6499-0000. contact@hmcare.org, en.hmcare.net
Beijing United Family Hospital and Clinics 北京和睦家医院
Wi-fi internet. Lido, Emergency Room is open
24/7/365, Mon-Fri, 8:30am-5pm.> 2 Jiangtai Road,
Chaoyang District, 朝阳区将台路2号. Tel: (10) 5927
7000 / 5927 7120(Emergency Hotline). United
Family CBD Clinic和睦家朝外诊所, Mon-Sat, 9:30am6:30pm.> Suite 3017, Building AB, Vantone Center, 6
Chaowai Street, Chaoyang District, 朝阳区朝阳门外
大街6号万通中心AB座2层3017室. Tel: (10) 5907 1266.
Jianguomen Health and Wellness Center和睦家建国
门保健中心, Wi-fi internet, Mon-Sun 8:30am-5pm>21
Jianguomen Dajie, B1, The St. Regis Residence, St.
Regis Hotel朝阳区建国门外大街21号北京国际俱乐部
饭店. Tel: (10) 8532 1221 / 8532 1678 (Immigration
Clinic ). Shunyi Clinic和睦家顺义诊所Wi-fi internet,
Mon-Fri, 9:30am-5:30pm, Sat and Sun, 9:30am4:30pm.> Pinnacle Plaza, Unit 806, Tian Zhu Real
Estate Development Zone, Shunyi District, 顺义区天
竺开发区荣祥广场806号,Tel: (10) 8046 5432. Shunyi
Dental Clinic顺义牙科诊所, Wi-fi internet, Mon-Sat,
9:30am-7:30pm> Pinnacle Plaza, Unit 818, Tian Zhu
Real Estate Development Zone, Shunyi District顺义
区天竺开发区荣祥广场818号. Tel: (10) 8046 1102.
Liangma Clinic亮马诊所 Wi-fi internet, Mon-Fri,
8:30am-5pm>2nd Floor Grand Summit, 19 Dongfang
East Road朝阳区东方东路19号1号楼会所27号外交人
员公寓B区官舍16号 . Tel: (10) 5927 7005 www.ufh.
com.cn, patientservices@ufh.com.cn
Hongkong International Medical Clinic,
Beijing 北京港澳国际医务诊所
Dongsishitiao: 9/F, Office Tower, Hongkong Macau
Center-Swiss Hotel, 2 Chaoyangmen Bei Dajie朝阳门
北大街2号港澳中心瑞士酒店办公楼9层; 6553-9752,
6553-2288/2345/6/7; service@hkclinic.com; www.
hkclinic.com
International SOS
Since 1989, International SOS has been run
by globally trained medical professionals
and provides medical, security and travel
advice, as well as emergency help 24/7. Its
alarm centers operate house calls, ambulance and evacuation services, and standard
health treatments. Languages spoken
include English, German, French, Mandarin,
Spanish, Japanese, Italian and Cantonese.
> Suite 105, Wing 1, Kunsha Building, No.16
Listings
Xinyuanli, Chaoyang District朝阳区新源里16号琨莎
中心1座105室(6462 9112/ 6462 9100, www.internationalsos.com)
ParkwayHealth Vantone Medical and
Rehabilitation Center
Mon-Sat, 10am-7pm. CBD>1-2/F, Vantone Center, 6
Chaowai Street朝阳门外大街甲六号万通中心AB座一
二层; (4000-662-882(24hrs); enquiry@parkwayhealth.
cn; www.parkwayhealth.cn
Vista Medical Center 维世达诊所
24hours. Wi-Fi internet. 3/F Kerry Center. 1 Guanghua
Lu 光华路1号嘉里中心商场3层 Tel: 8529-6618. Email:
vista@vista-china.net. Website: www.vista-china.net
OASIS International Hospital
OASIS International Hospital specializes in
serving the expatriate community with the
latest world-class technology and a broad
range of services, all in a pristine facility designed to provide patients with the utmost
comfort, care and privacy.
> Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5.30pm; Sat-Sun, 8.30am-12.30pm;
24 Hour Emergency Bldg C1, 9 Jiuxianqiao Beilu
Chaoyang District朝阳区酒仙桥北路9号C1栋 (400 876
2747, 5985-0333, www.oasishealth.cn)
SPA & MASSAGE
Dragonfly Therapeutic Retreat
Created as a contemporary urban retreat,
Dragonfly is an oasis of peace and tranquility in the midst of the hectic city.
> Daily, 10am-late. 1)60 Donghuamen Dajie (near
The Peninsula Hotel and Oriental Plaza) Dongcheng
District东城区东华门大街60号(近王府饭店和东方广
场) (6527 9368, www.dragonfly.net.cn); 2) 1/F Eastern
Inn, Nan Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区南三
里屯路逸羽酒店一层 (6593 6066); 3) Grand Summit
Plaza, 19 Dongfang Donglu (100m north of Lufthansa
Center), Chaoyang District朝阳区燕莎桥东方东路19号
外交会所1层(燕莎中心路北100米) (8532 3122)
Angel Hands Massage Center
professors the world has to offer. Every
month one of the professors from the
University of Maryland comes to Beijing
to instruct the class for 4 consecutive
days (Thurs – Sun). The program lasts 18
months; the impact lasts a lifetime.
Email: beijing@rhsmith.umd.edu
Tel: 8526 2528/29
Rutgers International Executive MBA
> 5/F China Life Tower, 16 Chaowai Dajie Chaoyang
District 朝阳区朝阳门外大街16号中国人寿大厦 (5877
1706, www.rutgersinasia.com)
Tsinghua University
> Chengfu Lu, Haidian District 海淀区成府路 (6278
9437/8286 3785)
Mandarin Schools
My Chinese Study – Languages open
your world!
Starting from Sanlitun, now four language
centers across the city for the most Originating in Sanlitun, now with four language
centers available for you to get the most
effective Chinese education.
•2014 Summer Camp Registration Starts!
10% off, register before May 31st.
•May Special offer: Book with your friend,
both get 10% off.
•May Free Culture Event: Friday, May 30th
2pm.
Topic: Dragon Boat Festival Party.
•Available Courses: Early morning coursebefore work; Survival course-short term;
HSK course-ready for test; Business courseprofessional; Part-time general course-great
value; Private course-flexible schedule.
•Total beginner courses are open every 2
weeks (May 5, 6, 19, 20)
•Visa, accommodation and airport pick-up
provided.
Email: info@mychinesestudy.com; Tel: 8590 0698;
www.mychinesestudy.com; Sanlitun Center: 3-323,
Retail 3, Sanlitun SOHO, Chaoyang; Guomao Center:
2806, No.3 Jianwai SOHO; Anzhenqiao Center: 2F10,
Global Trade Center E, Anzhenqiao
Moving Mandarin- Professional &
Flexible Private Chinese tutor
Moving Mandarin is a professional Chinese
language education company located in Beijing and Shanghai providing quality 1-on-1
tutoring to busy working professionals at
a location of your choice. Our Advantages:
Fully tailored curriculum; 1-on-1 style tutoring; 100% certified teachers from BLCU;
Flexible Class Location and Affordable class
rates starting from RMB83/H!
Let us release your stress and make you
smile wherever you go... Our massagist will
know how to pamper and attend to you
every needs.
Aromatic Oil Massage RMB200.Aromatic
Body Powder Massage RMB285.
> Rm1801, Building 2, Jianwai SOHO, CBD Guomao,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区国贸建外SOHO2号楼1801室
(138 1182 1008)
The Wellness Spa by Hummingbird
A favorite among locals and expats alike for
its professional pampering know-how and
services, the Wellness Spa by Hummingbird
is a slick and serious urban retreat in the
heart of Central Park.
> Daily 10am-10pm. Tower 26, Central Park,
Chaoyangmen Wai Chaoyang District朝阳区朝阳门外
新城国际26号楼 (6533 6922)
Oriental Taipan Massage & Spa
Since 2002, Oriental Taipan has been pampering Beijing’s finest in their small chain
of contemporary spas. Calming flower
aromas, Zen music, and trickling feng shui
fountains create a soothing atmosphere in
each of their locations, while a long list of
treatments from around the world cater to
all pampering needs.
> Daily, 12am-midnight. Sunjoy Mansion, 6 Ritan Lu,
Chaoyang District朝阳区日坛路6号 (400 001 0202,
www.taipan.com.cn)
EDUCATION
MBA & EMBA Schools
BBA at BFSU-SolBridge
北京外国语大学国际商学院
> 19 Xisanhuan Beilu, Haidian District, 海淀区西三
环北路19号 (solbridge.bfsu.edu.cn, 8881 6563/8881
6763/8881 8537)
LEMBA
The Leadership EMBA from the University
of Maryland
Robert H. Smith School of Business is a
unique learning experience in Beijing. The
program offers world class executive and
leadership education from some of the best
Contact us now to experience a FREE TRIAL CLASS!
> Tel: 010- 57488958; info@movingmandarin.com;
www.movingmandarin.com; Rm 2209, Tower A,
Wanda Square, Dawang Road, Chaoyang, Beijing,
China
Beijing Juncheng Language School
北京君诚语言学校
> 1) Room 208, 1 Panjiapo Hutong, Chaoyangmenwai,
Dongcheng District 东城区朝阳门外潘家坡胡同1号
东城区职工大学208办室 (6525 9932/6526 7539) 2)
Gucheng Village, 15 Huosha Lu, Houshayu Town,
Shunyi District 顺义区后沙峪镇火沙路古城段15号
(8049 0307)
The Bridge School
北京桥汉语言学校
> (The Bridge School Head office)Room 503, 5/F,
Guangming Hotel, 42 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区亮马桥路42号光明饭店5层503室
(15321793321 Grettchin)
International Schools
Beijing BISS International School
北京BISS国际学校
> Building 17, Area 4, Anzhen Xili Chaoyang District
朝阳区安贞西里4区17楼 (6443 3151 www.biss.
com.cn)
Beijing City International School
北京乐成国际学校
Located in Beijing’s Central Business
District, Beijing City International School
(BCIS) lives by its motto: “Empowering
and Inspiring through Challenge and
Compassion.” This non-profit, independent
co-educational day school offers an international curriculum under the International
Baccalaureate (IB) World School system
and is authorized to teach all three IB
programs (Primary Years, Middle Years, and
Diploma Programme). BCIS is planning on
a second campus, a state-of-the-art Early
Childhood Center (ECC) campus. Located
only 1km from the main campus, the ECC
is the first pre-school building in Beijing to
be LEED-certified to Gold standard. BCIS is
one of the few schools in Beijing licensed
and accredited to offer a rigorous and wellrespected international curriculum to both
foreign and Chinese national students.
> 77 Baiziwan Nan’er Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区百
子湾南二路77号 (8771 7171 www.bcis.cn)
The International Montessori School of
Beijing 北京蒙台梭利国际学校
Founded in 1990, MSB is Beijing’s first fully
registered international Montessori school.
The school also boasts an unsurpassed dual
Mandarin/English program geared towards
helping students achieve fluency in either
language from an early age. Curriculum
aside, MSB boasts spacious classrooms, a
high teacher-student ratio and impressive
staff longevity. Extracurricular activities
include Spanish, money management
clubs, swimming, Latin dancing, cooking,
greeting card making and martial arts.
Student-teacher ratios are 4:1 in Nursery,
6:1 in Kindergarten and 8:1 in Elementary.
For students ages 1.5-12. Student body:
350 students, foreign nationals from more
than 30 countries. Tuition: RMB98,000 RMB177,000/year.
> Bldg 8, 2A, Xiangjiang Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳
区香江北路甲2号院8号楼 6432 8228 ext. 800, http://
www.msb.edu.cn, admissions@msb.edu.cn
Beijing Rego British School
北京瑞金英国学校
>15 Liyuan Jie, Tianzhu Town, Shunyi District
顺义区天竺镇丽苑街15号(8416 7718 www.bjrego.org)
The British School of Beijing 北京英国
学校
The British School of Beijing, established
in 2003, has campuses in Shunyi (primary
& secondary) and Sanlitun (primary). It is
the only school in Beijing approved by the
UK’s Independent Schools Inspectorate (ISI)
and is owned by the Nord Anglia Education
global network of schools. BSB offers an
enhanced English National Curriculum to
1,500 expatriate students, aged 1 to 18, beginning with Early Years Foundation Stage,
Primary, Secondary, IGCSE exams in Year 10
and 11 and the International Baccalaureate
(IB) Diploma programme in Year 12 and 13.
We have outstanding facilities including
a full-size football pitch, gymnasiums,
swimming pool, dance studios, dedicated
music rooms, computer suites, science
laboratories, a dark room, and art studios
plus numerous private practice rooms.
Admission & Fees: RMB102,993-246,057.
Contact our Admissions team to arrange a
school tour.
> Mon-Fri, 8am-4.30pm, South Side, 9 An Hua Street,
Shunyi District 顺义区安华街9号南侧(8047 3558,
www.britishschool.org.cn, admissions@britishschool.
org.cn)
Canadian International School of Beijing
北京加拿大国际学校
Located in the Third Embassy Quarter of
downtown Beijing, the Canadian International School of Beijing (CISB) opened its
doors in September 2006. This world-class
facility offers an internationally recognized
Canadian & IB PYP, IB MYP and IBDP
education.
Mission
The Canadian International School of
Beijing develops the whole child in an
environmentally sensitive school within a
kind, caring community to become a citizen
of the world.
> 38 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区亮马桥
路38号 (6465 7788 www.cisb.com.cn)
Dulwich College Beijing
北京德威英国国际学校
1) Legend Garden Campus
> 89 Jichang Lu, Shunyi District 首都机场路89号丽京
花园 (6454 9000; www.dulwich-beijing.cn)
2) Beijing Riviera Campus
> 1 Xiangjiang Beilu, Jingshun Lu, Chaoyang District
朝阳区京顺路香江北路1号香江花园 (8450 7676)
3) River Garden Campus
> River Garden Villas, Houshayu Baixinzhuang, Shunyi
District 顺义区后沙峪白辛庄裕京花园别墅 8046 5132
Harrow International School Beijing
北京哈罗英国学校 www.harrowbeijing.cn
Harrow International School Beijing prides
itself on its high academic standards, a
close-knit school community, a rich extracurricular activity program and the quality
of its pastoral care provision. Leadership
skills are promoted school-wide, with a
range of enrichment activities to help
students develop teamwork and creative
thinking skills, as well as independence and
responsibility. Students graduating from
Harrow Beijing have won places at a range
of universities across the world including
Princeton, Yale, Oxford and Cambridge.
> Address: 287, Hegezhuang, Cuigezhuang County,
Chaoyang District
朝阳区崔各庄乡何各庄村 287 号 Tel: +8610
6444 8900 Ext. 6900 Fax: +8610 6445 3870
Email: enquiries@harrowbeijing.cn
International School of Beijing
北京顺义国际学校
> www.isb.bj.edu.cn 10 Anhua Lu, Shunyi District 顺
义区安华路10号 (8149 2345)
SIBS Springboard International Blingual
School 君城国际双语学院
Springboard International Bilingual School
is a place where children, staff and parents
work in partnership to enable all their
students to realize their full potential. They
are offering a stimulating and full international curriculum as well as an exciting
after school program, which will include
Kung Fu, calligraphy, health and fitness and
football.
> 15 Gucheng Duan, Huosha Lu, Houshayu Town,
Shunyi District 顺义区后沙峪镇火沙路古城段15号
(www.sibs.com.cn, office@sibs.com.cn; 8049 2450)
Western Academy of Beijing
京西国际学校
The Western Academy of Beijing (WAB) is
a creative and innovative IB World School
built upon a solid foundation of core
values and our mission to Connect, Inspire,
Challenge; Make a Difference. Our students
exemplify these values through their awareness of the world around them, service to
others, can-do spirit and commitment to
excellence. WAB graduates are accepted
into world-class colleges and universities
across the globe, and we are proud of the
outstanding achievements of our students
in academics, the arts and athletics. WAB
will be celebrating its 20th anniversary in
the 2014-2015 school year.
Yew Chung International School
耀中国际学校
> Honglingjin Park, 5 Houbalizhuang, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区后八里庄5号红领巾公园 (8583 3731
www.ycis-bj.com)
Kindergartens
Beanstalk International Bilingual School
青苗国际双语学校
1) Kindergarten > 1/F, Tower B, 40 Liangmaqiao Lu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区亮马桥路40号B座一层 (6466
9255) 2) Primary School > Block 2, Upper East Side,
6 Dongsihuan Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东四环
北路6号阳光上东二区 (5130 7951) 3) Middle & High
School > 38 Nan Shiliju, Chaoyang District 朝阳区南十
里居38号 (8456 6019)
La Maison Montessori de Pekin
北京中法双语蒙氏儿童之家
The first bilingual French-Chinese Montessori kindergarten in Beijing, it welcomes
children between ages 2 to 6 years old.
The kindergarten is located in a beautiful
courtyard in the hutongs. Schedule: Monday to Friday: 8:30am to 3:30pm. After class
activities also offered.
> 50 Dongsi Shisitiao, Dongcheng
东城区东四十四条50号
Tel: 131 2025 0341/ 8401 3974;
e-mail: lamaisonmontessoripk@gmail.com
www.lamaisonmontessoridepk.com
EtonKids International Kindergarten
伊顿国际幼儿园
1) Lido – 6436 7368 www.etonkids.com > Room C103
Lido Country Club, Lido Place Jichang Lu, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区蒋台路机场路丽都广场 2) 6506 4805
3/F, Block D Global Trade Mansion Guanghua Lu,
Chaoyang District
朝阳区光华路世贸国际公寓D座3层 3) 8437 1006
Southwest corner of Beichen Xilu and Kehui Lu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区北辰西路与科荟路交汇处
西南角 4) 8480 5538 Kehui Lu, Chaoyang District,
Beijing 朝阳区科荟路大屯里社区 5) 6533 6995 Bldg
19, Central Park, 6 Chaowai Dajie Chaoyang District
朝阳区朝外大街6号新城国际19号楼 6) 6539 8967
Palm Springs International Apartments 8 Chaoyang
Park Nanlu Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝阳公园南路
8号棕榈泉国际公寓 7) 6749 5008 Bldg 21, Guangqu
Jiayuan, Guangqumen- wai, Dongcheng District 东
城区广渠门外广渠家园21号楼 8) 8478 0578 Baoxing
International Phase 2, Wangjing Chaoyang District
朝阳区望京宝星园国际社区2期 9) 8047 2983 Block 1,
Arcadia Villas, Houshayu Shunyi District 顺义区后沙峪
罗马环岛北侧天北路阿凯笛亚庄园1座 10) 5870 6779
20A Xidawang Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区西大望路
甲20号首府社区内
Ivy Schools 艾毅幼儿园
www.ivyschools.com 1) East Lake Campus 8451
1380/1 > C-101, East Lake Villas, 35 Dongzhimenwai
Main Street, Dongcheng 东城区东直门外大街35号东
湖别墅C座101室
2) Ivy Bilingual School 艾毅双语幼儿园 Ocean Express
Campus 8446 7286/7 >Building E, Ocean Express, 2
Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环北路2号
远洋新干线E座
3) Orchid Garden Campus 8439 7080 Orchid Garden,
18 Xinjin Lu, Cuige Xiang, Chaoyang 朝阳区崔各
乡新锦路18号卓锦万代 4) Wangjing Campus 5738
9166/1332 110 6167 Kylin Zone, Bldg 11, Fuan Xilu,
Wangjing, Chaoyang
朝阳区望京阜安西路11号楼合生麒麟社内
3e International 北京3e国际学校
6437 3344 www.3eik.com
9-1 Jiangtai Xilu Chaoyang District
朝阳区将台西路9-1号(四德公园旁)
朝阳区望京阜安西路11号楼合生麒麟社内
JUNE 2014
77
classifieds
Accommodation
Ascott China
Enjoy our hot offer this summer with 20%
savings on Best Available Rates in Ascott
Beijing, Ascott Raffles City Beijing, Somerset
ZhongGuanCun Beijing from now to 30
September 2013. Take your pick from these
wonderful destinations and let us provide
you and your loved ones with a warm
welcome in Beijing this summer. Now is
the time to choose your favorite service
apartments, open your summer tour!
www.ascottchina.com
Ascott Beijing
No.108B Jian Guo Road, Chaoyang District
Tel: 6567 8100
Ascott Raffles City Beijing
Located in Dongzhimen, one of the most
vibrant areas, Ascott Raffles City is near the
second embassy district, which is rich in
cultural heritage and is only a 15 minute
drive to The Forbidden City.
Other nearby leisure attractions include
Food Street (Gui Jie) and Sanlitun nightlife
district.
No.1-2 Dongzhimen South Street
Dongcheng District
Tel: 8405 3888
Ascott Raffles City Chengdu
No. 3, Section 4, South Renmin Road,
Wuhou District, Chengdu 610041, China
Post code: 610041
Telephone:(86-28) 6268 2888
Facsimile:(86-28) 6268 2889
GDS Code: AZ
Reservations Telephone:400 820 1028
(China toll-free) ;(86-512) 6763 1021
Email:enquiry.china@the-ascott.com
Somerset Grand Fortune Garden Beijing
Enjoy gracious living at Somerset Grand
Fortune Garden in the prime Chaoyang
District, where the business district,
embassies and international schools are
within close proximity.
Unwind with a medley of recreational
facilities and the convenience of a retail
mall at your doorstep.
No.46 Liangmaqiao Road, Chaoyang District
Tel: 8451 8888
FraserResidence CBD East Beijing
Our location on the Fringe of the CBD with
excellent connections to the subway line
1 (Sihui station), BRT Lines (Ciyunsi) and
public bus system mean that wherever your
intern needs to be in the city, getting there
is relatively fuss free!
One bedroom deluxe: RMB16,000 /month
Two bedroom Executive: RMB26,000 /
month
Three bedroom Deluxe: RMB33,000 /month
Email: sales.frbeijing@frasershospitality.
com
Website: http:>beijing-east.
frasershospitality.com
Tel: 010-58709188 / 400-881-6988
FraserSuite CBD Beijing
The ultimate luxury in apartment living,
Fraser Suites CBD Beijing epitomizes style
and comfort, that surpasses the service
level of many Beijing hotels. The 357
Gold-Standard Beijing apartment features
contemporary concepts designed for luxury
living.
12 Jintong Xilu Chaoyang District Beijing
Tel: 5908 6000
GTC RESIDENCE BEIJING
One of the top residences in Beijing, GTC
Residence is located beside the third ring
road with 5 minutes’ walk to subway line
5 , 10 minutes’ drive to Hou Hai . It is
also within easily reach of CBD, embassy
area, Financial Street and other urban
commercial,shopping and recreation areas.
Fully equipped apartments with impeccable
quality offer you a cozy living system and
will meet all of your requirements for room
78
JUNE 2014
decoration, furniture, electric appliances
etc..
Unique sky garden with golf practice field
and barbecue area is another symbol of
GTC Residence.
E-mail: sales@gtcresidence.com
website: www.gtcresidence.com
Tel:56756666
Lanson Place
Lanson Place Central Park Serviced
Residences, located in the Central Business
District of Chaoyang, offers spacious
apartments in two, three and four bedroom
configurations as well as penthouses
overlooking a charming landscaped garden.
The interiors are contemporary and restful
while marble-clad bathrooms and kitchens
are fully equipped.
Website: www.lansonplace.com
Lanson Place Central Park Residences
Tower 23, Central Park, No.6
Chaoyangmenwai Avenue,Chaoyang
District, Beijing
Tel: 8588 9588 Fax: 8588 9549
Marriott Executive Apartments
Ideally located in the center of Wangfujing
area where the prestigious business,
commercial, entertainment, and shopping
center of Beijing. The Imperial Mansion,
Beijing – Marriott Executive Apartments
reflects an exceptional level of luxury.
Gate, No. 1 Xiagongfu Street, Dongcheng
District
Tel: 6564 9999
The Millennium Residences of the Beijing
Fortune Plaza
The Millennium Residences of the Beijing
Fortune Plaza is located in the heart of
the Beijing CBD which bears the most
momentously potential of development
and value elevation. While 25 minutes away
from the Beijing International Airport, the
Millennium Residences is walking distance
from nearly all Embassies.
7 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu Chaoyang District.
Tel: 8588 2888
Oakwood Residence Beijing
Oakwood Residence Beijing offers 406
fully equipped luxury apartments ranging
from studios to four bedroom penthouse
and terrace apartments, all exquisitely
furnished in elegant and stylish decor. Each
apartment is fitted with a state-of-the-art
air purification and air conditioning system
which ensures 99.9% pure, triple filtered air,
so you can trust in Oakwood and breathe
easy.
No. 8 Dongzhimenwai Xiejie, Chaoyang
District, Beijing 100027, China
reschaoyang@oakwoodasia.com
Website: www.oakwoodasia.com/resbeijing
Tel: 5995 2888 Fax: 5995 2999
THE WESTIN EXECUTIVE RESIDENCES
The Westin Executive Residences at The
Beijing Financial Street offer an array of
world-class cuisine options and Westin’s
signature amenities designed to elicit
personal renewal. Just 40 minutes from the
airport, the Westin Executive Residences
provides direct access to Beijing’s business,
entertainment and shopping district and
close proximity to cultural landmarks such
as The Forbidden City and Tiananmen
Square. Each apartment is also fitted with
contemporary furnishings, fully equipped
kitchens, state-of-the-art appliances, home
entertainment system and LCD flat screen
televisions.
Email: reservation.beijing@westin.com
Website: www.westin.com/beijingfinancial
Tel: 6606 8866
Beauty Services
Black Golden Tanning Salon Sanlitun
Branch Grand Opening
Black Golden Tanning Salon is the only fivestar China flagship store by Ergoline. As
the 2011 model of Ergoline Esprit 770’s,
to bring a continuous tanning effect 25%
above standard machines with unique
aquacool and aroma functions, we provide
customers with the safest and most
comfortable tanning space.
Open time:11:00-21:00
Sanlitun SOHO Branch
Add: 2rd Floor Building 3, Sanlitun
SOHO,Chaoyang District
Tel: 57853711
Wangjing Branch
Add: Room T5 3rd Floor, BOTAI International
Building, No. 36 North Guangshun Street,
Wangjing, Chaoyang District
Website: www.bjtanning.com
Tel: 84722855
Regus Beijing Financial Street Excel Centre
金融街卓著中心
12/F, No.6 Wudinghou Street, Xicheng
District
LA BELLEZA
La Belleza means Beauty and Aesthetics in
Spanish. Professional hair-designers from
Hong Kong ,Korea and China gather here.
LA BELLEZA is the hairdressing salon for
you with its pleasant atmosphere, excellent
service, and finest products.
New haircut! Good mood! Excellent life!
Add: F4 No.408, Jinbao Place .Jinbao Street
No88,Dongcheng District, Beijing, china.
Website: www.labelleza.com.cn
Tel: 010 8522 1626
Regus Beijing NCI Centre新华保险大厦中心
15/F, No.12A Jianguomenwai Ave.,
Chaoyang District
MegaSun Tanning Salon
As the only flagship store for this popular
German tanning salon, megaSun Tanning
will provide for each client the finest sun
tanning experience.
Our center has prepared the newest
functional 7900 alpha and pureEnergy
chamber systems, combined with easyCare
optical testers. At megaSun, enjoy our
professional UV and tanning services.
Add: #8 Dongdaqiao Road, sShangdu SOHO
North Tower, Rm. 2302
Chaoyang District, Beijing
Website: www.imegasun.com
e-mail: 1019771453@qq.com
Sina Weibo: @麦肤堂
Tel: 5900-2236/2238
BUSINESS CENTER
Regus Serviced
Office
• FLEXIBLE OFFICE LEASES FROM 1 DAY TO
1 YEAR
• QUICK AND EASY TO SET UP FOR 1-200
PEOPLE
• PRICES FROM RMB 180 PER MONTH
• FIND MORE ON REGUS.CN
REGUS BEIJING (14 LOCATIONS)
Regus Beijing Taikang Financial Tower
泰康金融大厦 [NEW]
23/F, No.38 East Third Ring Road, Chaoyang
District
Regus Beijing China Life Tower
中国人寿大厦中心
5/F, No. 16, Chaoyangmenwai Ave.,
Chaoyang Distric
Regus Beijing China World Tower 3
国贸三期
15/F, No.1 Jianguomenwai Avenue,
Chaoyang District
Regus Beijing IFC 财源国际中心
10/F IFC East Tower, No.8 Jianguomenwai
Avenue, Chaoyang District
Regus Beijing Kerry Centre 嘉里中心
11/F, Beijing Kerry Centre North Tower,
No.1Guanghua Road, Chaoyang District
Regus Beijing Lufthansa Center 燕莎中心
C203, No.50 Liangmaqiao Road, Chaoyang
District
Regus Beijing Pacific Century Place
盈科中心
14/F, No.2A Workers Stadium Road North,
Chaoyang District
Regus Beijing Prosper Center
世纪财富中心
6/F Tower 2, No.5 Guanghua Road,
Chaoyang District
Regus Beijing Zhongguancun Metropolis
Tower 中关村欧美汇大厦
7/F, No.2 Dongsan Street Zhongguancun Xi
Zone, Haidian District
Regus Beijing China Central Place
华贸中心
9/F Tower 2, No.79 Jianguo Road, Chaoyang
District
Regus Beijing Parkview Green
侨福芳草地中心
15/F Office Building A, No.9 Dongdaqiao
Road, Chaoyang District
Regus Beijing China Life – West
中国人寿大厦-西
West, 5/F, No.16 Chao Wai Street, Chaoyang
District
CSO (Singapore) Beijing Business Center
We have 10 years experience in
managing serviced offices in the Asia
and Pacific region, and our headquarters
is in Singapore. CSO Beijing is our first
business center in China . We are mainly
providing fully renovated and equipped
offices to clients for immediate use, and
all the serviced offices can be used as
incorporation purpose, and we offer
maximum flexibility and complete smart
office system to help our clients save
cost. We also provide virtual offices,
meeting room and conference room, video
conferencing, incorporation services and
many other services.
Add.: Level 6, Sun Palace Building,
Taiyanggong, Beijing
Ms. Stephanie Yan, Mobile: 18210080591
Email: sales.beijing@corporateso.com
Website: www.csochina.cn
Tel: 86 10 64697000
Servcorp
Smart businesses understand that flexibility
is the future of the workplace. They choose
the world's finest Serviced Offices to grow
their businesses, run critical projects and
give their people flexibility.
Level 26 Fortune Financial Center, 5
Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区
东三环中路5号财富金融中心26层 (Servcorp.
com.cn; tel: 5775 0310; fax: 5775 0350)
Catering Services
Aurora Catering
An 100% authentic Italian experience
whether tasting a mouthful Lasagna or a
juicy Carpaccio. Our international team
brings to you the authentic freshness and
tidbit of an Italian Espresso or a homemade
Classifieds
tastiness of a Mozzarella.
We offer a full range of catering and event
planning services for all types of business
and personal functions that are tailored for
you. The best service, at your service.
Contact Jacopo Tomé at 137 1794 0458
jacopo.tome@gptinternational.com
Zone de Comfort
With our professional service, you can
focus 100% on your event at Zone de
Comfort, every single assignment is unique
for us. Our experience helps us understand
your objectives with thorough planning,
and of course, exquisite food with elegant
presentation.
In the past 5 years, we have handled
numerous catering projects covering
diplomatic/business functions for
embassies, high-end cocktail receptions for
luxuries brands, automobiles and monthlong hospitality center services. Find out
more from our Website: www.zdc-catering.
com
CABLE SERVICES
Super IPTV
Harris Corporate Services Ltd
Beijing | Shanghai | Guangzhou | Hong
Kong
Established since 1972
WFOE & Rep. Office Set Up
Accounting & Tax Compliance
Payroll, HR & Visa Solutions
Hong Kong & Offshore Company
Registration
Hong Kong & China Bank Account Opening
Serving all your business needs for investing
in China. Call us for a free consultation.
Tel: (86)10-6591 8087
Mobile: 186-019-43718
Email: info.bj@harrissec.com.cn
Beijing:
Room 2302, E-Tower, No.12 Guanghua
Road, Chaoyang District, Beijing, PRC.
北京市朝阳区光华路12号数码01大厦2302
室
Shanghai:
Suite 904, OOCL Plaza, 841 Yan An Zhong
Road, Jing-An District, Shanghai, PRC.
上海市静安区延安中路841号东方海外大厦
904室
Guangzhou:
Room D-E, 11/F., Yueyun Building, 3
Zhongshan 2nd Road, Guangzhou, PRC.
广州市中山二路3号(东山口)粤运大厦11楼
D-E室
Hong Kong:
7/F., Hong Kong Trade Centre, 161-167 Des
Voeux Road Central, Hong Kong.
香港德辅道中161-167号香港贸易中心7楼
Super IPTV offers 120+ English live TV
Channels in HD quality, These TV channels
are delivered into your television through a
set top box via a broadband connection,
Much like cable services back home, pick
up the remote control and start watching,
it's one of the best ways to get your favorite
channels including HBO, CNN, BBC, FOX,
AXN, Star World, F1, EPL, SETANTA, FIFA
2014...
Website: www.beijingiptv.com
Shopping: www.shop.superiptv.com
Forum: www.forum.superiptv.com
Mobile: 133 716 00100 or 139 1188 5499.
CAR RENTAL SERVICE
Beijing TOP-A Vehicle Service Co., Ltd
Beijing TOP-A Vehicle Service Co., Ltd was
set up specifically to cater for the needs of
the expatriate communities, we provide:
English -speaking driver, Long-short term
leasing, Airport-Pick up/ Drop off, Sedan,
Van and Bus.
Email: service@expatslife.com
Website: www.expatslife.com
Tel: 64381634 Mobile: 13501237292
Beijing First Choice Car Rental Service Co.,
Ltd
We offer short and long term vehicle
leasing services for both business and
sightseeing. Our commpany could provide
the latest elite, high-end vehicles suc as
Mercedes Benz S300, BMW S5 and more!
Contact our friendly representatives for
more information.
Tel:138 1015 6525/6434 0778
www.fccars.cn
fccars@live.cn
Beijing Top Rate Car Rental Service Co., Ltd
*Long/Short term leasing
*Daily car service
*Sifht-seeing car service, Tailor-made car
service
*Airport-Pick up/Drop off
*Sedan (Audi A6, Audi A6L, VWPassat,
Accord, Lacross 2.4, Benz MB100, Benz Vito,
Hyundai) and Buses
*Native drivers with good English
*More information please contact
Tel:6504 7266/6504 7256
FAx:6504 7256
www.sxsdcar.com
Email:car-rental@live.com
CONSULTING SERVICE
Legalmall.net
Are you a foreign company wanting to
obtain reliable information about your
Chinese partner? LegalMall is a leading
Company Search service provider made for
you! Basic and Comprehensive Company
Search reports, free legal counselling,
Sourcing Bundle and much more at a very
competitive price.
www.legalmall.net
Beijing Office-TMF Group
In order to enable clients benefit from
the increasing globalization of the
worlds economy, TMF Group offers
a comprehensive range of corporate
administrative outsourcing services in 67
counties across the globe. With a genuine
global network and qualified staff, TMF
group provides an array of accounting,
corporate secretarial and HR administrative
outsourcing services.
Colin.Zhang@TMF-group.com
Website: www.tmf-group.com
CCTV Tower and Kerry Centre
Suite 3107, Tower A Beijing Fortune Plaza,7
Dongsanhuan Zhong Road, Chaoyang
District
Tel: 65330533-860
FURNITURE
Crossover
Crossover Center Flagship Store, is mainly
marketing international super home
furnishing brand products.
Our agent brands include Poltrona Frau,
Cassina, Fritz Hansen, Moroso, Cappellini,
Timothy Oulton, Tom Dixon etc, over
20 international super home furnishing
brands.
Our products are covered with all of fields
in daily-life home furnishing, including
furniture, furnishing, lighting, dinning, and
office supplies etc.
Website: www.crossovercenter.com
NO.81 North Road San-Li-Tun Bar St. ChaoYang District.Beijing.100027,P.R.C.
Tel: 5208 6112/6113 Fax: 8610-5208 6123
HOUSEKEEPING
JNY Home Service
JNY Home Service was established in
2007, supplying foreign families with
English speaking/non-English Speaking
nannies(maids), either daily or live-in.
As a part of our service,we make sure all
references and ID cards are thoroughly
checked to guarantee the safety and health
of your family.
Email : jieniyou@hotmail.com
Mobile: 13426362833(24h)
Email: travel@the-silk-road.com
www.the-silk-road.com
Beijing EX-PATS Service
Healty, reliable, experienced, Englishspeaking housemaid/ nanny. Free agency
and 24- hour English service. Medical
and Accident insurrance covered. EXPATS
Life Group also serves with Mandarin, car
leasing, English-speaking driver, Chinese
driving license, vehicle registration.
service@expatslife.com
Website: www.expatslife.com
Tel: 64381634
Mobile: 13501237292
Beijing Trans-World Air Service Co.Ltd.
Established in February 2005 and approved
by the Civil Aviation Administration
of China, we are an aggregator of
international and domestic air, global
hotel reservations and big business travel.
With sales rankings in the top ten and
having earned the title of major proxies
of worldwide airlines, we are well-known
for our top-notch service. We offer online
booking, hotel inquiry and reservations and
a varity of travel-related services.
G8, First Floor, China Resources Building,
8 Jianguomenbei Avenue, Chaoyang 朝
阳区建国门北大街8号华润大厦一层G8
tel: 8519 2468/2469/2470/2471/2472;
fax: 6518 2589; renwoxing26@viptkt.com;
www.viptkt.com; WeChat: twas08314854
MOVING & SHIPPING
Seven Seas Worldwide
Save up to 50%! We’re the first choice when
it comes to moving baggage internationally
from one box up to 2M3. We offer a global,
door-to-door service with prices starting
from RMB 999 by sea and RMB 1580 by air.
Call 400 181 6698 now for an instant
quote or book online at www.
sevenseasworldwide.com
RECRUITMENTS
The Pearl Golf Club
The Pearl Golf Club, an American owned
and operated company is the largest
luxury golf simulation club in Beijing. The
Pearl Golf Club is an exclusive, membersonly club designed to serve the unique
needs of Beijing’s elite. We are looking
for an energetic, vibrant and responsible
Sales Associate with outstanding sales
and communication skills who can work
under pressure. The responsibilities for
this position will include developing and
maintaining a client pipeline and planning
and hosting luxury events.
If you are interested this opportunity and
meet our requirements please send your CV
to mia@pearlgolfclub.com
Storage
China Self Storage Co. Ltd
As a member of SSA and SSAUK, China Self
Storage Co. Ltd. introduces an international
industry standard to professionally
developed Self Storage for private, family
and business. Safe, clean, air-conditioned,
24h access, flexible size. To learn more, visit
www.selfstorageinchina.com. To make a
reservation, contact 400-600-6378 info@
selfstorageinchina.com.
Jin’an Building, Tianzhu Garden West Rd.,
Shunyi District, Beijing.
Koala Ministorage
Koala Ministorage is the first professional
self-storage provider in Beijing. To learn
more, visit our website www.koalaministorage.com. To make a reservation, call us
toll free at 400-017-8889, email us at
questions@koalaministorage.com, or visit
one of our stores.
TRAVEL SERVICES
Lusongyuan Hotel
A traditional compound of quadrangle
composing of 5 courtyards which lies in
the "hutong" area of Beijing. The hotel
building is famous for its imperial living
taste of the Qing Dynasty with a history of
nearly 170 years. The original owner of this
large private house was the Grand General
SenggeRinchen, who lived here while he
carried out top official duties, such as
defense minister.
Tel: (86 10) 6404 0436
Fax: (86 10) 6403 0418
Address:
No.22 Banchang Lane , Kuanjie, Dongcheng
District
东城区宽街板厂胡同22号
www.the-silk-road.com
E-mail: webmaster@the-silk-road.com
Silk Road Travel Management Ltd.
Silk Road Travel is a pioneer in organizing
Silk Road tours and other classic routes in
China. Founded in 1997, we are specialized
in tailor making travel packages that
allow travellers to truly experience the
local cultures and explore the amazing
heritages. Whether you are a small group
of 2-9 persons or a corporate group, our
professional staff will tailor make the tour
programme based on your needs.
TUI China
An affiliate of World of TUI, the world’s
leading tourism group, TUI China was
established in late 2003 as the first joint
venture with foreign majority share in the
Chinese tourism industry. Its headquarters
are in Beijing whilst its operations reach
deep into the far corners of China. World of
TUI generated approx.50,000 predominantly
western tourists to China yearly and
provides M.I.C.E services for renowned
companies worldwide. Add: Bright China Chang An Building, Tower
2, Unit 921-926, 7 Jianguomen Nei Avenue
(Fax: +86 (0)10 6517 1371; Email: sales@tui.
cn; Website: www.tui.cn; Tel: 8519 8800
Real Estate Agents
JOANNA REAL ESTATE RELOCATION
SERVICE
We are one of China’s leading real estate
agencies boasting an extensive database
of high-end properties for rent. We have
helped thousands of expatriates find their
homes as well as hundreds of companies
re-locate their employees. Once we have
found you your ideal home we will be on
hand to deal with any post move issues
and our dedicated after sales team will be
contactable 7 days a week to help you with
any queries you have throughout your stay
in our country.
For more information please contact us:
Email: paulquin@joannarealestate.com.cn
Website: http:>beijing.joannarealestate.
com.cn/ (Tel: 84585667 ; 13501358971)
Replus-Benchmark
“Replus-Benchmark” is one of the leading
real estate agencies and relocation service
provider for expatriates in Shanghai,
Beijing, Guangzhou, Chengdu and
Shenzhen.
• Residential Home Search Service
• Visa Application
• Commercial Office Space Search Service
• Buying and Selling Property Service
E-mail: marketing@replus-benchmark.com
Website: www.replus-benchmark.com
A-1509,Xiaoyun Center, No.15 of Xiaoyun
Road, Chaoyang District Beijing
Tel: 84467119 Fax: 84467577
Businesses!
Promote your services
to thousands of
people each month on
our classifieds pages.
For more details and
special packages
please e-mail
bjadvertising@
urbanatomy.com
PROMOTE YOUR
BUSINESS IN BEIJING
JUNE 2014
79
SPORTS « football
walks the walk
Gazza’s Second Most Famous set of World Cup Tears
BY IAN WAL K E R
”I’m not kidding Gazza, cut out on the kebabs.“
The World Cup. As a professional footballer, it’s the pinnacle. The reason you play in the first place. To miss out on one is probably the most
devastating thing you can feel. I know because I’ve experienced it.
It was World Cup France ’98 and Glenn Hoddle was the England
coach. He decided to take a squad of 28 to a pre-tournament training
camp at the La Manga resort in Spain, to be cut down to a 22 for the finals. Of course, everyone goes in thinking they’re going to be the ones
in the final squad.
We took four goalkeepers. David Seaman was obviously going.
And then it was Nigel Martyn, Tim Flowers and me. I was up against
some good keepers, so it was going to be tough, but I thought I might
have a chance of sneaking in…
We trained for about 10 days, played a couple of friendlies, and
then they said to us, “Right, we’re going to call everybody individually into Hoddle’s hotel suite, and he is going to tell you personally
whether you are in or out.”
If you were kicked out you had one hour to pack your stuff, after which a minibus would take you to a private jet that would fly
you straight back to England (like a bizarre footballing form of a Big
Brother eviction night, only with a place at the World Cup at stake.
Pretty strange.)
So we just had to sit there and wait to be called. Eventually, I got
mine. On my way down – and it was a fair walk (and all the longer for
what lay at the end of it) – I passed Phil Neville, who was in tears. “He
isn’t in,” I thought - it wasn’t tears of joy, anyway! I tried to console
him, but you couldn’t really get through.
“Oh god, that’s not good,” I thought, and walked into Hoddle’s
hotel suite. And then he delivered the news. He just said to me: “You
know, you’ve obviously worked hard, but I am not going to take you
on this occasion.” All that…
I didn’t even ask him why – at that stage, you just go home.
There’s not much you can say, because you can’t change his mind. The
decision has been made and you’ve just got to deal with the disappointment. All I could do was go back to my room, dwell on it for a bit,
and pack – I had to be out within the hour!
I was sitting there when all of a sudden I heard a huge commotion.
I came out and there were a couple of lads outside and I asked what
80
JUNE 2014
was going on? “Oh Gazza’s gone mad. He’s not in the squad. He’s gone
mental and trashed Glenn Hoddle’s room! He’s going absolutely off his
rocker!”
Oh my god. Nightmare. We went down to Hoddle’s suite and Gazza
had turned over the table, thrown everything. Smashed glass. Flowers
and vases strewn all over the corridor. In one corner he was being
comforted by Paul Ince and David Seaman. “I thought he was going to
hit me,” Hoddle told David Davies, Executive Director of the English
Football Association.
By that time it was about 10 minutes before we had to leave, so
everyone was trying to calm Gazza down. I went back to my room,
grabbed my stuff, and they kind of ushered the six of us who didn’t
make the cut out of the back of the hotel (which I thought was a bit of
a joke) onto the minibus and directly to the airport.
When we got on the plane, Gazza was still in pieces. He was crying. Really blubbing. We were trying to calm him down – “Don’t worry
about it, it’s just one of those things” – but he was devastated. It was
quite interesting, all of us who were equally as shattered kind of had
to forget about ourselves and make sure he was alright, because he
was the most inconsolable of us all.
I was good friends with him and we lived nearby, so once we arrived back in England they asked me if I would look after him, get in
a taxi with him and make sure he got into his house okay. Because by
this point the press were already all over him.
Looking back I don’t think it was the right way to go about it. By
that point the coach probably knew his final squad, so to bring six
extra players to the camp, giving them hope that they might make it,
only to let them down in that manner… especially with a character like
Gazza. It lit the fuse, and that was it!
As for me, unfortunately that’s the closest I got to a World Cup.
Other times I missed out due to loss of form or injury. Although I did
make it to two European Championships, in 1996 and 2004, more of
which to come.
> Ian Walker is a former England international who played for Tottenham Hotspur,
Leicester City and Bolton Wanderers. He is now goalkeeping coach of Shanghai East
Asia, and a newly signed That’s columnist.

400 820 8428 Pole Dancing No Tips Please, We`re Athletes

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