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Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario
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RESTAURANTS • RECIPES • WINE • TRAVEL
HURONWATTERS
Chef Joseph Watters and
The LITTLE INN of BAYFIELD
• GARLIC’S of LONDON
• F.I.N.E. A Restaurant
in Grand Bend
• MICKEY’S BOATHOUSE
in Port Stanley
SOPHISTOBISTRO
RUNDLES Adds
a New Gem
in Stratford
Issue  • Summer 
photo by: Paul Elledge
photo by: David Hou
Ah, the sights and sounds of summer in Stratford!
Let us lead you on a musical dance through
award-winning gardens and historic neighbourhoods,
or along the river where majestic swans glide.
The music never stops in Stratford, from international
sweet songstresses who make their homes here,
the classical and operatic greats – Glenn Gould was
a regular summer resident – to the rock legend,
Richard Manuel of The Band.
Our artistic nature blooms in glorious aural tones set
among fragrant gardens and heritage streetscapes
throughout the summer. Mark your calendar for
Stratford Summer Music from July 21 until August 17th
with Measha Brueggergosman; the heavenly St. Mary’s
Cathedral Choir of Edinburgh and gospel, jazz and blues
late night cabarets.
Visit us online to plan your summer getaway and absorb
the sights and sounds of Stratford
www.sensuousstratford.com
CONTENTS
6
RESTAURANTS

Fresh Garlic
Chef Wade Fitzgerald and Garlic’s of London.
By BRYAN LAVERY

The Times They Are A-Changin’
Rundles is also now home to Sophisto-Bistro in Stratford.
By MELANIE NORTH

An Old Song Gets New Lyrics
Chef Joseph Watters Updates the Classic Little Inn of Bayfield.
By CECILIA BUY
12

FINE Dining at the Bend
F.I.N.E. A Restaurant in Grand Bend.
By JANE ANTONIAK

A Daytrip Discovery
Mickey’s Boathouse in Port Stanley.
18
By M. ROMHANYI
ELGIN COUNTY BUZZ

A Season of Celebration
Compiled by DEBRA BAGSHAW
30
TRAVEL

Dining in Eco-Culinary Paradise
By RICK VanSICKLE
SEASONAL RECIPES

34
Grilling Season is Right on ’Cue
By CHRISTINE SCHEER
COOKBOOKS

Gordon Ramsay’s Fast Food by Gordon Ramsay
Reviewed by JENNIFER GAGEL, with Selected Recipes
BOOKS

The Fruit Hunters by Adam Leith Gollner
Reviewed by DARIN COOK
BUZZ
NEW AND NOTABLE

The BUZZ
Compiled by CHRIS McDONELL
WINE
42

Reds Like the Cool Climate Too
By SHARI DARLING
BEER

Take A Summer Brew Tour
By THE MALT MONK
eatdrink
™
RESTAURANTS • RECIPES • WINE • TRAVEL
A Food & Drink Magazine Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario
eatdrinkmag.net
™
» Register and receive a monthly email with a link to the free digital edition
— more recipes, photos, stories and links.
» A virtual magnet for all things culinary
— find restaurants, read reviews and much more.
Publisher & Advertising Manager
Chris McDonell
chris@eatdrinkmag.net
Office Manager
Cecilia Buy
Telephone & Fax
519 434-8349
Mailing Address
525 Huron Street,
London ON N5Y 4J6
News & Feedback
editor@eatdrinkmag.net
Contributors
Bryan Lavery
Melanie North
Cecilia Buy
Jane Antoniak
Shari Darling
Christine Scheer
D.R. Hammond
Jennifer Gagel
Chris McDonell
Darin Cook
Debra Bagshaw
Rick VanSickle
M. Romhanyi
Terry Dooner
Editorial Advisory Board
Bryan Lavery
Chris McDonald
Cathy Rehberg
Copy Editor
Melanie North
Graphic Design & Layout
Hawkline Graphics
graphics@eatdrinkmag.net
Website
Milan Kovar/KOVNET
Printing
Impressions Printing
St. Thomas ON
Copyright © 2008 eatdrink™, Hawkline Graphics and the writers. All rights reserved.
Reproduction or duplication of any material published in
eatdrink™ or on eatdrinkmag.net™ is strictly prohibited without
the written permission of the Publisher. eatdrink™ has a circulation
of 10,000 issues published monthly. The views or opinions
expressed in the information, content and/or advertisements
published in eatdrink™ are solely those of the author(s) and do not
necessarily represent those of the Publisher. The Publisher
welcomes submissions but accepts no responsibility for
unsolicited material.
summer 2008 • issue eleven
always more online @ eatdrinkmag.net
5
NOTE FROM THE PUBLISHER
Making Time for Berry Picking
By Chris McDonell
M
y goal is very simple this summer. I
want to pick some wild raspberries, and eat my fill. Of course I’m
enjoying the purchased berries that come
into our house by the pint, basket and
bucket, especially the raspberries
and now the blueberries. They are
good. But, for me, there is nothing
like harvesting wild raspberries
straight into my mouth.
My dad introduced me to the
pleasure of wild foraging. We’d be fishing along a lake or river on our summer holiday and we’d (literally) stumble upon a
wild berry patch. Miniature wild strawberries were a rare find, but the raspberries are
what I remember best. Poles would be
dropped, conversation was minimal, and
we ate whatever we found.
Fortunately, London has plenty of places
to find what I’m looking for, and the wild
blackberries are the most plentiful I’ve ever
seen. It would be a bonus if my dad was
there too, or my own kids, but even if
I’m alone, it will still be good. I’ll
savour every morsel.
We’re working on our website and
you can see some of the results
already. We’ve made it far easier to
read the magazine online, for starters.
Welcome to our new Huron County readers.
The wider distribution was part of the original
plan. Thanks to all who helped us reach it.
See you in September. /CMKPI.KHGCP#TV(QTO
.GCTPVQ/CMG
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6
issue eleven • summer 2008
RESTAURANTS
Fresh Garlic
Chef Wade Fitzgerald and Garlic’s of London
By Bryan Lavery
K
an intentional and well researched concept.
Garlic’s of London’s gracious and knowledgeable Customer Service Manager Emma
Pratt recently verified this bit of local restaurant lore. The Business 257 course from the
Ivey Business School at the University of
Western Ontario, a well established foundation of post-secondary business education,
includes an integral group project. Students
apply their knowledge of financial, marketing, operations and business management
by creating a fictitious business. Sometimes
these projects, such as Garlic’s, go on to be
implemented in the real world. Business
student Kathy Burns, encouraged by a business school advisor, took the Garlic’s idea
forward and opened the restaurant.
In its infancy, Garlic’s was Richmond
Street’s foray into a trendier, more accessible style of dining. With large windows that
frame diners, the window tables are the
Photo courtesy Jerry Vrabec, Custom Art Metal Work
nowing how some people feel about
garlic, 15 years ago it seemed an odd
choice as a name for a restaurant.
Conversely, Garlic’s made an indelible
impression as both a declaration and a celebration of garlic as an ingredient, a
flavouring and a symbol of potency. Many
perceive that garlic has an overwhelming
flavour and is not for the faint of heart. Yet
Garlic’s soon became a dependable, recognizable brand to London diners.
There is little doubt now that the garlic
theme was inspired. It became the common thread that bound the restaurant
together as well as a key ingredient that led
to the restaurant’s success. The name of a
restaurant is among the most important of
marketing considerations. Would clients be
alienated by having the "stinking rose" of
the kitchen as the restaurant’s symbol and
public image? As it turns out, this was
A London institution for 15 years, Garlic’s of London took a fresh approach with the hiring of Chef
Wade Fitzgerald. While garlic is still a mainstay, local seasonal fare is the order of the day.
perfect vantage point to view the action on
Richmond Street. Located steps from the
Grand Theatre and a short walk to Centennial Hall, the top music venue then, Garlic’s
was hip, downtown, and convenient to the
city’s cultural glitterati at night, the daytime
business crowd, the ladies who lunch and
the fashionable consumer in search of
retail therapy. The Garlic’s brand was so
well developed that it was considered an
eminently franchiseable entity, a vision
that was never realized.
From a cook’s standpoint,
used properly, garlic is
revelatory, indispensable and a flavour
enhancer. A member of the onion
family, its redolent
taste and aroma
emerge as its cell membranes split, releasing an
enzyme called allinase. Garlic
is prominent in an unparalleled number of
cuisines and dishes, whether it’s raw,
sautéed, confited, poached or caramelized.
Shakespeare never had an encouraging
word to say about garlic. Folklore and pop
culture persuades us that vampires are
repelled by it, and the most often discussed
side effect of garlic’s piquant depths is its
capacity to incite bad breath. Garlic is
probably the reason that parsley is so ubiquitous. Also known as the lazy man’s garnish, parsley contains so much chlorophyll,
chewing the fresh leaves will destroy the
stink of garlic on your breath. Despite raising concerns, though, garlic remains a popular ingredient. No coincidence then that
Garlic’s restaurant has enjoyed a decade
and a half of success despite challenges in
the industry and ownership changes.
Each generation of owners honoured the
spirit of Garlic’s and made unique contributions to the brand. This also speaks to the
longevity of many of its employees. Current
owner Edo Pehilj worked his way through
the ranks from waiter to management to
become the proprietor of the rechristened
Garlic’s of London. Late last summer, Pehilj
injected a healthy shot of adrenalin into the
restaurant when he hired Executive Chef
Wade Fitzgerald. Fitzgerald brought something new to the table: an aesthetic curiosity
and an unpretentious ethical earthiness.
During a lengthy
late afternoon conversation with Chef
Fitzgerald, I saw
he personified
the idiom
“down-toearth,” attributable to his east
coast sensibility and upbringing. While
many young talented chefs exude confidence and arrogance, he exudes self-assurance, pragmatism and a balance of
sophistication and refined rusticity.
Fitzgerald was born and raised in the
rural village of Baddeck, located on the
shores of the fog-free waters of the Bra d’Or
Lakes in the heart of Cape Breton Island.
Baddeck is known as the gateway to the
breathtaking seascapes and spectacular
vistas of the Cabot Trail, perhaps the most
scenic and picturesque drive in North
America. Baddeck has a rich history and
the area is known for prosperous farms that
Great Food ... Fine Wine ... Good Times
ery
Full Devliavilable
Menu A
www.amicieatery.com
Monday–Saturday: 11–2 & 5–10; Sunday: 5–10
Authentic Italian Cuisine
Patio Now Open
519-439-8983
350 Dundas Street, London (at Waterloo)
7
dot the rolling hillsides and rural landscape. Sheep, cattle, swine, goats and poultry are raised by food producers that
uphold longstanding local traditions.
Although fishing and lumbering were the
most important industries, locally produced dairy products, fruit and vegetables are plentiful and the family
farm has always been regarded as
the islanders’ pantry. Baddeck is
also known for its seafood and the
area is considered the richest lobster breeding ground in the world.
It is no wonder then that when
Chef Fitzgerald talks about cleaning a “120pound halibut right off the boat,” he speaks
with authority and the soulfulness of someone who understands fish. A proponent of
“eating local and in season,” Fitzgerald’s
focus on quality and freshness was honed at
a young age. The foundation of his food
education happened informally, through
the on-going influence of a neighbor who
was an early mentor in the garden and
kitchen. Fitzgerald learned directly about
the cycles of nature and the relationship
between earth and table.
Venturing off to Prince Edward Island,
Fitzgerald completed a two-year culinary
program at the well-regarded Holland College. He continued to perfect his culinary
chops in Halifax, Ottawa and Lake Louise,
Alberta. At the latter stop he met the apple
of his eye, a native of St. Thomas who
became his fiancée. He returned to
Ontario with her, and was soon
employed by the London Hunt
Club before taking the reigns at
Garlic’s of London.
Pehilj and Fitzgerald both understand
that differentiating your cuisine and service
from those of the competition starts with a
thorough knowledge of your strengths in
the kitchen and at front of house. Service is
well-informed and staff is fully involved in
the creation of the menus, changed
monthly to showcase the best seasonal
ingredients and products. Fitzgerald sees
no point in bringing out of season produce
to the table and does not rely on the
8
“An oasis for
food lovers ...”
LUNCH
Wed to Fri
11:30-2:30
DINNER
from 5pm daily
432 Richmond Street at Carling • London
  
www.davidsbistro.ca
Benvenuti to authentic Italian ...
FREE PARKING AFTER 6 PM
OFF QUEENS AVENUE
After serving London
for over  years,
La Casa Ristorante
 King Street
519-434-CASA (2272)
www.lacasaristorante.com
continues to offer
unsurpassed food,
wines and excellent
customer service.
We proudly present
our new menu ~
fine, authentic Italian
cuisine at its best.
Come Home to La Casa!
assumption that there are only four discernable seasons in Ontario. He pays homage
on his menus to many local organic farmers, and refers to them as “unsung heroes.”
For Fitzgerald, finding a steady, dependable source of local ingredients has been a
gradual, sometimes frustrating, but ultimately rewarding challenge that has resulted in
numerous friendships. A believer in continuous employee education, he strives to keep
his colleagues informed and interested in
the restaurant and its suppliers. This has
included field trips to McSmith’s Organic
Farm in St. Thomas (who supply the restaurant with organic chicken, chicken livers,
vegetables and herbs) to pick wild garlic and
forage for morels. In a recent Garlic’s newsletter, Patrick Tuck, culinary team member
and aspiring chef, writes about Fitzgerald’s
passionate championing of the sweeter and
overall better flavour of wild garlic as
opposed to the farmed domestic garlic.
Garlic is still a dominant theme but in
Fitzgerald’s hands it is purposeful and only
occasionally does it get attended special
fanfare. An example is the garlic ice cream,
a signature dessert. At the same time a
curiosity to diners, it is also the embodiment of garlic’s higher calling through its
juxtaposition of savory and sweet elements
when caramelized to nutty perfection. Garnished with a chocolate covered roasted
garlic clove, it is accompanied by one perfect seasonal sand cherry.
The use of elephant garlic, more closely
related to the leek with a mild, mealy texture,
served alongside Pat England’s hand-picked
field greens, makes a stand-out salad. On
another occasion, these delicious greens are
dotted with fresh local feta, toasted almonds
and roasted garlic vinaigrette served in a
rectangular crisp phyllo pastry vessel.
A salad of Sleager Farms’ crisp organic
arugula with a sprinkling of St. Marys’ C’est
Bon goat cheese is accompanied with
vanilla and anise-flavoured, crunchy
organic red beets from McSmith’s Farms.
Garlic’s menus are ambitious but never
over-reaching and stay within the framework
of Fitzgerald’s ethical considerations. Pan-
9
“The hip, cosmopolitan bistro
in the heart of Downtown”
TheBraywick
Bistro
Colin
& Chef Paul
invite you to
try their new
menu
244 Dundas St., London
519-645-6524 www.braywickbistro.ca
The Only On King
172 King Street • London
519.936.2064
www.theonlyonking.ca
roasted, free-range, dry-aged Black Angus
Sirloin and naturally raised, antibiotic free
Berkshire Pork exclusive to Cumbrae Farms
are succulent, well prepared dishes. Other
main courses include: delectable pan fried,
Northern Lake Erie yellow skinned wild Pickerel, slow roasted saddle of Haldimand
County Dorset Lamb, Everspring Farm slow
roasted duck breast and Wild, Wild West
Coast Halibut, with signature overnight
tomatoes and wild mustard greens.
In his recently renovated open kitchen,
Fitzgerald and his team make art of local
ingredients by preserving the nuances of
natural flavours and aromas with meticulous concern and unpretentious earthiness.
Breads, pastas, soups, stocks and reductions are all housemade. Pizza dough, made
from scratch and rolled out to order, is fresh
to achieve the correct height when baking.
Fitzgerald tells me that, initially, some
customers voiced their dissent and were
reluctant to accept the change in Garlic’s
culinary direction. Although they may have
lost some clientele, Garlic’s has gained
many converts and new customers who are
interested in Fitzgerald’s farm-to-table
approach to cooking.
My conversation with Fitzgerald ends
with a discussion of the triumph of beating
farm fresh egg whites so they mount
smoothly and stiffly to achieve the perfect
soufflé. For a chef worth their salt, food
becomes a language and Fitzgerald speaks
it fluently. And eloquently enough that,
despite my skepticism, I was convinced to
try the homemade garlic ice cream. You
know what? I loved it. Garlic’s of London
481 Richmond St., London
519-432-4092
www.garlicsof london.com
Open Daily at 11am for Lunch and Dinner
and Sunday Brunch
Reservations Recommended
BRYAN LAVERY is a well-known local chef, culinary instructor and former restaurateur. As eatdrink’s “Food Writer at
Large,” Bryan shares his thoughts and opinions about a wide
spectrum of the culinary beat.
12
RESTAURANTS
The Times They Are A-Changin’
Rundles is also now home to Sophisto-Bistro
By Melanie North
C
onstant change is the new millennium’s mantra and changing with
the times is what James Morris has
done—with vision and style. Morris has
opened the new Sophisto-Bistro, using
space within his renowned Stratford restaurant Rundles. It is a sign of the times that
even a venerated institution such as Rundles has found need to take such a dramatic
step as key to encouraging more diners.
Stratford, long a destination point
because of the Shakespeare Festival, has a
substantial number of businesses and
restaurants dependent on its theatrical fare.
Alas, the slowing economy, gas prices, a
higher Canadian dollar, and perhaps less
enthusiasm for the Bard than in
previous years have all contributed to a slow-down in the
local economy. The Stratford
Tourism Alliance is working hard
to promote the town’s rich culinary resources, and is having
some success in addressing an
overdependence on the worldfamous Festival. However, many
observers hold the opinion that
the town is currently over serviced.
In response, Morris has
given over the rear room at Rundles to the Sophisto-Bistro in
order to “recapture some of the
business we shed over the last few
years.” He opened Rundles in 1977
in response to theatre-goers’ need
for a sophisticated epicurean
experience, and the accolades
Proprietor James Morris in the garden
outside his new Sophisto-Bistro. Formerly
known as The Garden Room, the
Sophisto-Bistro space has been redesigned to suit the less-formal menu.
The entry ramp to Rundles Restaurant is one of the
first signals that a strong design aesthetic is at work.
Attention to detail is evident throughout.
Sophisto-Bistro patrons can choose
between a two- or three-course meal, from
a different menu from the main room, but
choose from the same Rundles dessert
menu. The Sophisto-Bistro style is more
eclectic, a little more natural and less
“worked,” and the appetizer and entree
offerings are too far away from Classic
French cooking to be served in Rundles.
“Haute cuisine is the finest cooking talent
and the finest ingredients. It is food of
occasion,” explains Morris. “Bistro style is
every day of the week.”
Chef de Cuisine Neil Baxter now has a
two-tier menu to orchestrate each evening,
which he executes with humble aplomb.
Through an inspired use of a method of
cooking called sous vide (common in gourmet European restaurants), Baxter is able
to maintain the efficiency and organization
necessary to accommodate two menus
using the same kitchen and number of
staff. French for “under vacuum” the sous
vide method seals the food to be cooked in
airtight plastic bags. The bags are then
have come ever since. One of the founders
of the Stratford Chefs School 25 years ago,
Morris has also kept abreast of what works.
“We have a rigid structure in the Rundles
Main Room: appetizer, main course and
dessert, with a high price ticket,” notes
Morris. “But in the Bistro, it is more flexible
and the menu features less expensive cuts
of meat and fish, so it’s more affordable for
patrons.”
The Sophisto-Bistro opened at the end of
May. The carefully styled furnishings of the
main restaurant have been re-invented in
soft denim jean shades of pale green, blue
and rose with lilac on the banquette. Artist
Viktor Tinkl’s sculptures have been carried
through from the main room to this inviting space. On the walls are his “Happy
Hour People” faces (Morris refers to them
as “End of the Day People”) and large airplane models from “found” materials hang
from the ceiling. “There is a savage humour
to his work that I like,” says Morris, “and
they are quite playful.” The tables are more
closely spaced than in Rundles and you can
easily invite your neighbours into a conversation—true bistro style.
13
Chef de Cuisine Neil Baxter has added
a new menu for Sophisto-Bistro to his
exacting work for Rundles Restaurant.
14
Roast Cornish Hen and Bok Choy, Finger ling Potatoes
and Ginger Vinaigrette
placed into a carefully controlled hot water
bath in the kitchen for precise lengths of
time. This cooking method is less labour
intensive but also favours the Bistro cuts of
meat. It seals in the flavours, the colour, the
texture, the nutrients and the juices while it
cooks. Spices and marinades are applied
just before sealing. “It’s a good way to introduce flavour quickly,” notes Baxter, “and it
goes into the food easily as it is kept under
pressure.” Just before the dish is plated
Chef has the opportunity to add the finishing touches. The meat will be seared
quickly on the outside to add flavour and
colour. One of the bistro appetizers is
Mackerel in Citrus Escabèche. The sous
vide method suits this kind of oily fish. Traditionally the mackerel would be fried and
marinated, but sous vide provides a cleaner
and fresher result. Baxter admits the extra
menu is a challenge, “but sous vide allows
us to cook a number of dishes, eases the
preparation and organization. It results in
less time at the stove, more efficient service
and you can do more at the same time.”
I recently dined at Sophisto-Bistro.
Open to Chef’s suggestions, I was served an
appetizer of Salmon Rillette and a main
dish of “Cheeky Potato” (braised veal
cheeks) with Potato Terrine in a rich red
wine sauce. My guest ordered the Grilled
Octopus appetizer with a stir-fried cabbage, cucumber and pepper salad. (Octopus would be served at Rundles, but this
bistro main is not as delicate and has an
Asian influence, with wasabi-flavoured
mayonnaise.) For an entrée, my friend
chose Grilled Breasts of Quail with Barley
Risotto and Scallion Coulis.
Our meals were extremely tender and
flavourful and we both had the same Rundles signature dessert: Glazed, Double
Lemon Tart that features a layer of lemon
custard topped with a layer of lemon curd
accompanied by orange sorbet. SophistoBistro also offers house wines as base
wines. The Bistro White is Viognier “Les
Jamelles” 2006 and the Red is Syrah “Les
Jamelles” 2006.
Chef then took us on a tour of the
kitchen. Bread is baked on premises. The
sourdough loaves and baguettes are set to
Roast Portobello Mushroom & Grain-Filled Crêpes with
Butter-Soy Dressing
rise, then put into controlled refrigeration
to slow the process and hold the rise until
the next day. The modern stainless steel
unit has rows of shelves holding small
wicker breadbaskets, each covered with its
own cloth, cradling a ball of dough.
The large main room of the kitchen contains the prep area and the stoves, with
rows of utensils, sauté pans and copper
pots. In an adjacent smaller room was the
famous vacuum-sealing machine (not the
technical name!) where staff were sealing
chicken in a marinade. The marinade also
has greater effect when tightly sealed with
the meat.
When Chef Baxter is putting a dish
together, he first regards components for
their texture and flavour, then determines
the combination of ingredients to get
everything to work together. Baxter is “a
natural talent,” says Morris. “Neil cooks
with his emotions.”
“You are expressing a part of yourself,”
agrees Baxter. “It’s a creative product that
you shape into an extension of yourself. A
chef manipulates food into something he
thinks will serve his clients well.”
“Cuisine is reflective of society,” notes
Morris. “We are cooking for Canadians and
Americans. The basic principles we use are
French but the influences reflect our own
experience and knowledge of what our
clients want.” There has also been a conscious decision to showcase Canadian and
local product. A traditional rillette is made
with pork so using salmon in its place is a
more modern interpretation of the classic.
The pea soup is made with pea shoots
instead of the peas; the classic duck confit
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15
Buttermilk Parfait and Rhubarb and Raspberry Sorbet.
has a Moroccan influence with the flavours
of the braising juice.
As both Morris and Baxter agree, you
must first understand the basics, build the
foundation first, before you interpret and
change. This new venture, the
Sophisto–Bistro, is evidence that the solid
footings of their business have allowed
them to make a most welcome change. Sophisto-Bistro and
Rundles Restaurant
.OSTRANGERSHERE
*USTFRIENDSYOU
HAVEYETTOMEET
Stratford is more
than great theatre.
“I made a delicious discovery: Stratford has a culinary obsession.
And, for me, finding what I call a ‘food town’ is a rare and
magnificent thing ... You’ve got a place that feeds all the senses.”
— Marion Kane, Food Writer
(Dish: Memories, Recipes and Delicious Bites)
www.marionkane.com
Restaurant
#BDLUP0VS'VMM)PVST
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151 Albert Street
in Stratford
RESERVATIONS
519-271-5052
www.oldprune.on.ca
WWW.FOSTERSINN.COM
111 D o w n i e S t r e e t , S T R AT F O R D 1- 8 8 8 - 7 2 8 - 5 5 5 5
Just steps away from Theatre
Chef de cuisine
BRYAN STEELE
SHELDON RUSSELL
CHEF/PROPRIETOR
34 Brunswick Street
in Stratford behind
the Avon Theatre
www.keystonealley.com
Reservations 519.271.5645
Appetizing
Suites Upstairs
at the Cafe
Reservations
519.271.5645
18
RESTAURANTS
An Old Song Gets New Lyrics
Chef Joseph Watters Updates the Classic Little Inn of Bayfield
By Cecilia Buy
S
ince 1832, The Little Inn of Bayfield
has been providing bed and board to
travelers. Nearly 150 years later, in 1981,
Patrick and Gayle Waters became the new
innkeepers. The Waters’ early years in Bayfield were a time of building. “When we first
came here, we were the only people open
[in the winter],” recalls Gayle Waters, who
bravely, for a non-chef, did some of cooking
then. There were nine bedrooms (now there
are 28) and only one dining room. Now, it’s
a going concern. Tourists of all stripes and
ages, hikers, cyclists and strollers-ofbeaches all find their way to the Inn.
Bronwen Metcalf, Marketing Manager at
The Little Inn, notes that people come to
tel groups for the last ten years.
The Inn is seeing a decline in the number
of Americans that used to throng the streets
in summer. “They’re still coming,” says the
innkeeper, “but Ontarians are making up
the shortfall.” Despite the vagaries of the
economy, Waters is optimistic. “2009 might
be a very different thing,” she says, with the
voice of experience. With partner Richard
Fitoussi, the Waters’ have developed and
nurtured the establishment for nearly three
decades. The Little Inn is a member of the
Ontario’s Finest Inns organization, has
received the Wine Spectator Award of
Excellence annually since 1996, and the
CAA Four Diamond rating (for both restaurant and lodging) for the last
ten years.
Some would rest on their
laurels at this point. Others
might eschew change, but
continue pushing themselves and their staff to rigorously maintain the levels
of quality, service and attention to detail that these trophies require. Gayle Waters
goes further. “We’re raising
the bar all the time,” she
says. “Anything innovative
would be welcome.’
The latest innovation has
The Little Inn of Bayfield has been welcoming guests since the 1830s.
come to Bayfield from Kingston, by way of the Cordon Bleu Ottawa and
the Inn for many reasons, but all are lookLa Maison de Marc Veyrat in Annecy. Chef
ing for a combination of quality lodging,
Joseph Watters is in the kitchen, and he is
superior food, service and atmosphere.
Some are seeking a romantic get-away; oth- embracing the challenges while continuing
ers come with business colleagues for some the traditions of The Little Inn.
“The history of the Inn, in terms of servwork as well as rest and relaxation (with
ing local food, is long,” says Gayle Waters.
perhaps some team-building time in the
“We were one of the founding members of
kitchen). There are culinary tourists,
the Huron Harvest Trail, but even before, in
reunions, brunch groups and families on
the 1980s, the Inn got together with five difholiday. As well, the Inn has been hosting
creatively packaged programs for Elderhos- ferent restaurants. We did traveling dinners,
19
everyone offered a dinner
[based on local produce].”
(The Huron Harvest Trail
was launched in 1998, offering tourists the opportunity
to visit fresh produce, livestock and game farms,
country markets, farmers
markets, and heritage buildings. Similar initiatives, such
as Stratford’s “Field to Chef
Connections” and the
Huron and Perth County
“Taste Treks” are occurring
around the province.)
The dining rooms blend modern amenities with historic charm.
For Chef Watters, the
from it what it is, and make it the best that it
quality, quantity and diversity of available
can be. It’s finding the true flavour of the
local foods was the major draw. “We have
product, using the freshest of ingredients.
everything local,” he enthuses, noting that
Then there’s research. You have to find
even larger urban centres like Toronto
“can’t beat what we have, can’t get what we innovative ways to present it, to bring out
get.” His approach to cuisine is based in the that flavour. Maybe change the consistency, the texture. And then, definitely, the
modern French style, and his most essenpresentation.”
tial tenet is “simplicity. I’m a purist … no
Don’t be misled by this emphasis on
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“simplicity.” Watters is an especially creative contains a secret ingredient, for the surchef. His passion, inventiveness and enjoyprise and amusement of the diner’s palate.
ment of his métier are evident in every dish
Watters is eager to credit his food
on the menu. Consider, for example, this
sources. “The suppliers we have are great,”
asparagus appetizer. On
he begins, citing first his
the plate are both green
butcher. Metzger Meat
and white asparagus with
Products provides the Inn
freshly ground sea salt and
with beef, pork and lamb,
pepper, a 21-spiced balall from their own and
samic reduction, and a
other area farms. The
creamy, lemon-scented
micro greens come from
ripened cheese from MonSlegers greenhouse, certiforte Dairy. Then off to the
fied organic and familyside … an orange reduction
farmed. These greens
and thyme popsicle! “You
include peppergrass, cress,
have to make it fun,” laughs
red daikon, popcorn, pea
Watters. “That’s the whole
tenders, garnet amaranth,
point. If you can’t give an
sunflower, mini sorrel, and
experience, all you’re doing
arugula. Bayfield Berry
is selling food.”
Farm, just north of town,
A gustatory experience
keeps the kitchen proviis certain, from the simply
sioned with seasonal
dressed salad of micro
berries and fruits including
greens (including pepper- Chef Joseph Watters
blackberries, apples and
grass cress, red daikon,
peaches, as well as asparapopcorn and pea tenders, all cut just before gus. From Weth Mushroom Farm come shiservice from hydroponic containers in the
take and prized mitake mushrooms.
kitchen), through to mains like local white- Bayfield Fish and Seafood, down at the
fish (prepared in two ways, and presented
wharf, is the source of the fresh whitefish.
in two services), and on to dessert. SpeakAlong with so many of our regional chefs,
ing of which, there’s still time to enjoy local Watters loves the artisanal cheeses of Monstrawberries, in “Strawberry Shortcake
forte Dairy, especially the Paradiso,
Revisited.” Using fruit from Bayfield Berry
Toscano and Piacere. A Mennonite farm
Farm, Watters layers his shortcake with a
produces most of the vegetables served at
strawberry crème anglaise that has been
the Inn as well as the colourful (and of
gelatinized and, with application of nitrous course edible) floral garnishes.
oxide, turned to an airy foam. A tube of
Obviously, “you can’t get everything
tempered white chocolate is stuffed with
locally,” admits Watters. The menu might
strawberry mousse. The finished product
include lobster, shrimp or scallops. Foie
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21
gras is currently offered as an appetizer. The vide an opportunity for the pair to showcase
presentation includes both a hot and a cold their areas of expertise. Erb knows that an
version similarly prepared, and served with educated staff is essential in an establishment
roasted peaches and a port wine reduction. such as this, and organizes an annual staff
Chef’s own apparently boundless enertrip to the Niagara Peninsula. For the edificagies are augmented by a brigade that
tion (and enjoyment) of the clients, the Inn
includes three chefs de partie. Once the
regularly offers events such as the Winemakfood leaves their domain, it
ers Dinner Series, with Ontario
a lways m ore on l in e
passes into that of Darren Erb,
winemakers leading diners
the Inn’s Dining Room Manager.
through five courses each served
CLICK THIS LINK ONLINE! with an accompanying wine.
Guests can choose between
Chef Joseph Watters
two main dining rooms, or the
Guests staying at the Little
verandah if the weather is coop- shares a creative recipe
Inn enjoy, besides the expected
for Pan-Seared Whitefish,
erative. As well, there is a private Mini Vegetable Bundles, range of luxurious rooms and
dining room which seats up to
Potato Crisps and Arugula suites, a complement of public
ten. This room, more than the
rooms. These include two comCream Sauce.
others, seems imbued with the
fortable parlours and a diminupast. Cosy but not confining, it has a fieldtive bar, warm with dark wood, that feels
stone fireplace, a large pine dining table,
like a pub snuggery. The dining areas, by
and antique sideboards. A pair of doors
contrast, are light and airy, golden wideopen to the main street, giving the space an plank floors harmonizing with creamy
ambience more of a private home than a
walls and white linen.
commercial dining room.
Like the premises themselves, the tradiThe floor staff is mostly local, some the
tions of hospitality and service at The Little
children and even grandchildren of people
Inn of Bayfield are well maintained. But as
Gayle Waters worked with in the early years. Gayle Waters says, the bar continues to be
Training, she says, is “pretty informal,” with raised. Whether you are making plans for
much mutual mentoring. Nonetheless, or
business or pleasure, or just feeling impulperhaps because of this, service is
sive, stop by and enjoy the culinary stylings
absolutely professional, yet unobtrusively
of an innovative maestro, as he makes food
so. The feeling is warm and relaxed, never
sing to a new tune. stuffy or pretentious.
The wine list is extensive, particularly
The Little Inn of Bayfield
strong in its Canadian component, and tend- Main Street, Bayfield
ing more towards the New World than the
519-565-2611 or 1-800-565-1832
Old. Darren Erb and Chef Watters are workwww.littleinn.com
ing closely together on the wines, investigating new offerings, researching and attending CECILIA BUY is a writer and designer who has enjoyed livtastings. Sunday Special Chef’s Nights proing and dining in London and area for the past 17 years.
The Sunnivue Farmstore
Organic Meat and Produce
OPEN EVERY SATURDAY
Until December, 10am-5pm
HOME DELIVERY
Please call for more info.
Organic Vegetables & Herbs
Fresh-Cut & Dried Flowers
Beef, Veal & Pork
Eggs & Beeswax Candles
Home-Made Bread & Buns
Maple Syrup, Honey & Jam
All Subject to Seasonal Availability
Here’s one of the many ways to Sunnivue: Take
Richmond St. to Elginfield and turn left on Route 7.
Continue to Ailsa Craig and turn left in the middle of
town on Queen (which becomes Petty St.) Turn right
on New Ontario Rd., a short distance outside of
town, and drive about 1 km. to Sunnivue, on the left.
www.sunnivue-farm.on.ca
519-232-9096
Explore
Ontario’s
West Coast
on the
Lake Huron
Shores
GRAND BEND
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A Restaurant
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...
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www.finearestaurant.com
519-238-6224
42 ontario Street S., Grand Bend
Something for everyone, from fine dining in our café,
to quality BBQ food on our patio or
upstairs in the Sunset Room.
All offer a splendid view of Lake Huron.
Fresh fish, steak, chicken, slow-cooked back ribs,
burgers, grilled shrimp, housemade desserts & more.
Lakeview Café
85 Main Street, Grand Bend
Open for Dinner 7 Days a Week
in the Summer
519-238-2622
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24
RESTAURANTS
FINE Dining at the Bend
F.I.N.E. A Restaurant in Grand Bend
By Jane Antoniak
I
t’s long past time to re-think dining
in Grand Bend. If only thoughts of
french fries, pizza, burgers, ice
cream and cold beer come to mind
when you conjure Grand Bend cuisine (dare we call street fare such)
then it is indeed time to take note of
the other options available. Re-shift
your sand-saturated palette to
thoughts of lobster poutine, panroasted pickerel, cheddar and stout
fondue, crisp salads with nuts, berries
and homemade croutons, butterF.I.N.E., inspired by “the finer things in life,” takes its unusual
scotch cream pie and refreshing
spelling from the design work of Charles Rennie Mackintosh.
chardonnays.
dining room with bar and a seasonal patio
F.I.N.E. A Restaurant, just off the strip,
out front. Reminiscent of a little summer
south of the lights, opened in 2005. Locals
cottage, the space was carefully designed
have quietly, and with devotion, packed
by David Murphy of London, with influthis interesting addition to the dining
scene. As it’s often hard to get a reservation, ences from art nouveau Scottish architect/artist Charles Rennie Mackintosh, and
some secrets are best not shared, but Chef
Owner Erryn Shephard and Head Chef Ben features iron work, stained glass, a fireplace
and Shephard’s own vibrant art collection
Sandwith deserve the word to get out.
of Grand Bend artists such as Barry RichShephard and Sandwith are well known
man, Vic Jansky, David Bannister and
in the Lake Huron village. Shephard was
Teresa Marie.
formerly with The Little Inn, the old LakeAs lovely as the setting is, the food is
view Café and the Oakwood Resort. Now,
what keeps customers coming back. With
she shines in her own creation: a 32-seat
the panache of his New York City training evident in flavours and presentation, Sandwith delights in special
requests for lobster poutine or his
hand-cut frites … perfect with a steak
and salad for more traditional diners.
Both chefs care for an herb garden out
back and make their own preserves
and condiments that are stored in a
jam cupboard in the main dining
room.
Locals often appear at the back door
offering seasonal fruits and vegetables.
The owners take pride in sourcing local
and regional suppliers of cheese, meat
Head Chef Ben Sandwith and Chef Owner Erryn
and fish. You can bet the pickerel dinner
Shephard in F.I.N.E.’s charming and cozy dining room.
was freshly caught nearby. It is one of the
restaurant’s most requested selections—
served with great height and colour on a
bed of sautéed mushrooms, potatoes,
beets, corn and asparagus.
“We always have a list of things in
progress,” says Shephard. “Ben and I just
talk and things develop in the kitchen. As
long as we are having fun, making a very
good product, the customers are happy and
we make a living, then, well, that’s the key
to it all, isn’t it? I don’t expect to get rich
but it’s a wonderful lifestyle here at the
lake.”
While the noise level inside F.I.N.E. can
sometimes get a bit high with jovial groups
of friends often booking several tables
together, the restaurant runs smoothly
under the experienced hand of Jackie Stenhouse, Front of House Manager. Also a well
known local in the restaurant scene, Stenhouse personally ensures service is efficient yet friendly. She likes to create some
of the signature drinks at F.I.N.E. too, this
summer offering up a mango martini for
sun-parched visitors.
F.I.N.E. is open for lunch and dinner in
the high season and offers special theme
nights in the fall and winter to keep spirits
up during the off-season. Dinner for two
with wine and desert can run easily over
$100—this is a place to seriously celebrate
your summer vacation. Leave the kids at
the cottage with the grandparents and take
off for a night on your own. And then send
the grandparents back for lunch later as a
thank-you—everyone will be feeling fine at
F.I.N.E. F.I.N.E. A Restaurant
42 Ontario Street South, Grand Bend
519-238-6224
Reservations required.
Closed Mondays.
www.finearestaurant.com
JANE ANTONIAK is a former TV, radio and print journalist
who lives in London and enjoys spending summer near the
water with her partner, children and friends. She operates
Antoniak Communications, providing media and public
relations consulting.
Now in Parkhill —
Enroute to the Lake!
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issue ten • early summer 2008
RESTAURANTS
A Daytrip Discovery
Mickey’s Boathouse in Port Stanley
By M. Romhanyi
Photo courtesy www.portstanleynews.com
W
e don’t go out to dine as often as
From the varied menu, my companion
we could, as I resent paying for
selected the Guacamole and Black Bean
food that is not as delicious and
Dips served with wedges of pita bread. We
well presented as at
devoured a very genhome. I have, several
erous serving of both,
times, when really
to the last crumb. I
hungry, eaten food
chose the Bruschetta,
that never should
fresh chopped tomahave left the restautoes with creamy goat
rant kitchen. On those
cheese on a toasted
occasions, the cheque
baguette surrounding
is paid before I say
a beautifully presented
anything. No need to
green salad. I couldn’t
mention, I’m sure,
recognize the herb
that I am not the perused with the tomato
son cooking at home. I Mickey’s Boathouse in Port Stanley offers a varied but the combination
am, however, excelwas delicious.
menu and an outstanding view.
lent at clean-up.
The wait person
On the May long weekend, looking for a
mentioned the entertainment on Sunday
snack and a glass of wine while in Port
evening was music from the 1950s. As this
Stanley, we stopped at a place on Mail
was also perch season, we made a reservaStreet, new to us, called Mickey’s Boattion for three.
house. The Mickey, I suspect, is Mike of
The place was packed when we arrived
Mike and Dori Henatyzen, the restaurant’s but I had what turned out to be the best
owners and operators.
seat in the house, at the back of the room
It was later in the afternoon, a business
with a clear view of everything. Despite
meeting was being conducted in the dining how busy and hectic the room was, the staff
room and it was too cold for the patio, so we seemed to carry off everything easily and
opted for the Bistro at the rear. On this occa- with smiles.
sion, we enjoyed the room to ourselves.
We started our meal by sharing an order
of bruschetta, followed by the fresh perch.
The fillets were lightly breaded and served
with roasted potatoes for two of us, and the
third diner chose mashed sweet potatoes.
Perfectly cooked white beets, yellow beans
and carrots completed the plates.
Bread pudding and rhubarb pie were the
desserts of choice. While I didn’t try them,
not a trace was left on either plate.
When you’re looking for an easy, relaxed
time with excellent food, Mickey’s Boathouse is an excellent choice. In our opinions, it is well worth the drive and your
time. Now that the weather has warmed up,
we head for the patio! Mickey’s Boathouse
187 Main Street, Port Stanley
519-782-7726
mickeys.boathouse@sympatico.ca
Open 7 Days a Week: 11:00am to Close
Former London restaurateur M. ROMHANYI enjoys wining
and dining in Southwest Ontario and the Tampa Bay area of
Florida. And never pulls punches.
28
ELGIN COUNTY BUZZ
A Season of Celebration
Compiled by Debra Bagshaw
Quai du Vin Estate Winery events continue throughout summer with the best of
entertainment, wine and relaxation in a
vineyard setting. The line-up includes
Mardi Gras in July on July
26th; Juke Box Memories
July 27th; Star Gazing
Saturday August 2nd &
Sunday August 3rd;
Music Trivia Sunday
August 10th; their signature Reds, Whites &
the Blues August 17th. The afternoon
events are always a sea of gourmet picnics
brought by visitors to enjoy with Quai du
Vin wine and entertainment. Vist
www.quaiduvin.com or call 519-775-2216
for detailed information on ticket prices,
times and event formats.
Heritage Line Herbs invites you to two
special Sunday afternoon teas, the Alice in
Wonderland Tea Party on Sunday, July 27th
and Teas of the World on Sunday, August
17th. Both provide an
opportunity to
savour the beauty of
the waterfalls and
gardens, learn about
the herbs and partake in a sumptuous traditional afternoon
tea. Heritage Line Herbs also strives to help
out in the local community each year with
a major fund-raising event in September.
This year they will hold Walk for Safety, a
two- and four-km wilderness walk to raise
funds in support of Violence Against
Women Services, Elgin County. For more
information about Heritage Line Herbs
Retail Store, Tearoom, special Sunday
teas, or the Walk for Safety call 519-8665577 or visit www.heritagelineherbs.com.
Pinecroft Pottery and The Green Frog Tearoom are two of the longest-running and
best known daytripping attractions in Elgin
County. Pinecroft, now the oldest familyrun studio pottery in Canada, celebrates its
60th anniversary this
year. The tearoom
opened in 1978 as a
celebration of
Pinecroft’s 30th
anniversary, and to
meet the needs of visitors who came for pottery demonstrations.
The family started out serving muffins and
homemade bread in tiny individual loaves
with jam and butter served in little pottery
dishes. Today, the tearoom has grown considerably but continues to focus on the
recipes of local cooks and on foods from
nearby farms, served in a quiet forest oasis.
An extensive exhibit, Pinecroft 1948-2008:
Celebrating 60 Years of Canadian Achieve-
Celebrating all that Elgin County has to offer!
Home & Garden
Food & Dining
Arts & Recreation
In Print & Online
www.relishelgin.ca
Summer edition now at businesses throughout Elgin County and online.
ment comes to the Elgin County Museum
from August 2nd to December 20th. The
Green Frog Tearoom can be reached at 519773-3435 and the Elgin County Museum at
519-631-1460 (ext. 160).
The Iron Horse Festival rolls into St.
Thomas on August 21st, and brings four
days of entertainment, midway
rides and activities for kids. It
also features Ribfest with
several teams cooking up
their best for festival-goers
and the rib competition,
the Iron Chef Cook-Off,
and the Wine & Food
Celebration on Thursday
August 21. Visit www.ironhorsefestival.com
for the details.
The Hiemstras of Clovermead Bees and
Honey have a lot to celebrate this year.
They were named Ontario’s Outstanding
Farmers of 2008, a large proportion of their
bees survived a winter that
was unusually harsh to
bees, and they have
expanded their retail
outlet. One of their
yearly celebrations is the
Bee Beard Festival, with
the famous bee beard competition. This year’s festival takes place on
July 26th. Any visit to Clovermead comes
with an opportunity to wander the heritage
buildings, fields of wildflowers and the Bee
Discovery station, and a chance to try their
many unique flavours of honey and honey
products. For more information visit
www.clovermead.com or call 519-773-5503.
Nothing says summer like watermelon.
Straffordville, on the eastern
side of Elgin County, celebrates summer and the sweet,
juicy fruit with Watermelon
Fest on Saturday August
23rd.
DEBRA BAGSHAW is the Editor and Publisher of Relish
Elgin magazine and can be reached at: editor@relishelgin.ca
30
TRAVEL
Dining in Eco-culinary Paradise
By Rick VanSickle
K
ANGAROO ISLAND, Australia — It’s one of the pristine beaches that hug the
only a 20-minute plane ride from
shores of Kangaroo Island. An open-air
Adelaide to this eco-culinary paratent, a brilliant sunny day, fresh-grilled King
dise island off the coast of Australia. But
George Whiting and chilled bottles of riesonce you touch down it feels like a world
ling. Life does not get any better than this.
away.
As our fresh-caught whitings are lightly
It’s an extraordinary island, half of which grilled, our group takes a moment to taste a
remains native bushland just as it was
selection of Jacob’s Creek rieslings, the
when British navigator Matthew Flinders
perfect complement for the fish. It’s an exfound it in 1802. It’s literally
tensive and aggressive portcrawling with koalas, seals,
folio of fruity, voluptuous
platypus, wallabies and
rieslings in the dry style that
kangaroos.
defines Jacob’s Creek wineAnd that’s just the beginmaking for this varietal.
ning. Seaside cottages,
All the wines are finished
handcrafted glassware,
bone dry, to better express
local cheeses, oysters, lobthe natural fruit flavours,
sters, secluded beaches
says Bernard Hickin, Jacob’s
and some of the finest wild
Creek chief winemaker.
honey you’ll find anywhere
Because of the high acidity
An aerial view of part of Australia’s
on the planet.
of the wines “you don’t
On this day, however, it Kangaroo Island (above) shows off the need the residual sugar.”
is fish we’re after. And not pristine wildness. A tent (below) makes
You get a real sense of the
for a perfect spot to enjoy the day’s
just any fish.
wines when paired expertly
As we board the 38-foot catch and some Jacob’s Creek rieslings. with the grilled whiting
Hot Spot Too early on a
that’s gently garnished with
sun-drenched morning,
squirts of lemon. And, to be
our skipper, Lance Tyley, a
honest, sitting on the
salty veteran of such deepbeach, waves softly rolling
sea adventures, charts a
onto the shore, the sun
course for the unusually
beating down, certainly
serene waters of Emu Bay.
gives the whole wine-fish
We are hunting for the
experience a lift.
elusive King George WhitThe best pairing with the
ing, a bottom-feeding,
fish was the Jacob’s Creek
long, thin salt-water fish prized for its
Steingarten Riesling Barossa 2006 ($36 at
sweet, delicate, tender flesh.
Vintages but currently out of stock). This is
Tyley knows every inch of these waters
one fine drop of wine. It’s a stylish riesling
and after two or three attempts finds a per- with distinctive aromas and flavours of
fect shelf where the regal whiting hang
fresh citrus mingling with minerals, smoke,
about. Using live bait and the skipper’s vast hazelnuts, and a hint that it will develop
knowledge, we’re filling the ice bucket with petrol notes, so desired for devotees of this
enough whitings for a perfect grilled lunch grape, if cellared properly. It’s a gorgeous
to be paired brilliantly with some of Auswine. And even better with a big hunk of
tralia’s finest rieslings.
fresh fish caught hours before. With catch in hand, we make our way to
31
Whitings and Wines
• Whitings are sought after for their sweet,
delicate flavour.
• There are many ways to prepare this fish,
like most tender white fish, including
grilling, barbecuing, baking and steaming
(just make sure not to overcook it).
• Garnishes can include citrus, herbs, dill,
chives, tarragon and coriander.
• Complementing wines would include most
unoaked whites that won’t overpower the
delicate flavours. A citrus-flavoured riesling
is just about perfect. It can be bone-dry or
with a little residual sugar.
• Whiting and other tender white fish species
such as lake trout or even bass can pair up
with many different white wines including
semillon, chenin blanc and even spicy
gewurztraminer. The key is not to overpower
the fish with oaky wines.
Suggested pairings available locally include:
• Barefoot Pinot Grigio (E. & J. Gallo Winery,
lcbo 53983, $9.95). This has grown quickly
to be the number one pinot grigio at the
LCBO, rivaling YellowTail in terms of rapid
growth. It’s a fine little wine with pear, apple
and orchard fruit flavours.
• Chateau des Charmes Estate Riesling 2006
(Vintages 277228, $16.95). Ontario rieslings are
simply fabulous. This one earned a gold medal
at the recent Ontario Wine Awards. Look for a
citrus and orange blossom nose that’s pretty
and subtle. The wine is broad on the palate with
lemon-lime flavours with just a touch of honey,
minerality and balancing acid.
Jacob’s Creek
Steingarten Riesling
Barossa 2006
RICK VANSICKLE, an avid wine collector, remembers bringing Mateus as a young man to the
“boys” camping weekend while everyone else
brought beer. In 1999, as Calgary Sun Sunday Editor, he took on the added role of wine writer for
the paper when a search for a new wine columnist proved difficult. (OK, he didn't search that
hard.) Rick has written a weekly column ever
since and now appears regularly, in various
forms, in the Calgary, Ottawa and Toronto Suns.
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32
SEASONAL RECIPES
Grilling Season is Right on ’Cue
By Christine Scheer
O
n our farm, the last month of sum3 To make sparklers, fill glass with ice cubes.
mer means a garden lush with proPour in 3 Tbsp of raspberry “base.” Top with
duce and a slightly more relaxed
sparkling wine. Stir to combine, serve
pace than the hot frenzy of July. We barbeimmediately.
cue regularly; who ever gets tired of that
Makes 3 cups of raspberry “base.” Will keep up to
fabulous grill flavour? When friends come
two weeks, covered and refrigerated.
over, having a barbecue guarantees a relaxed atmosphere. We
enjoy sitting outside as the night
cools down, and perhaps lighting a
fire. Yes indeed, summer nights
are memorable.
This menu takes full advantage
of your barbecue. Grilling some of
the vegetables for the salad adds
sweetness, leaving some vegetables raw adds crunch. Flank steak
has always been one of my
favourite cuts of beef. Lean and
Chili-Rubbed Flank Steak, Summer Vegetable Salad and Herbed
flavourful, flank steak is easy to
Flat Bread, all prepared on the barbecue grill.
prepare and cook. Making your
own grilled flatbread is much easHerbed Flat Breads
ier than you would think, and is a sure-fire
way to impress your guests. Finally, what’s
½ cup (125 mL) warm water
a summer gathering without some special
½ tsp (2.5 mL) granulated sugar
drinks? Raspberries are plentiful, and their 2 Tbsp (30 mL) yeast
flavour just screams “summer!” to me. A
1 cup (250 mL) milk
sparkling raspberry drink is the perfect
2 eggs
aperitif on a warm summer evening.
⁄ cup (80 mL) olive oil
½ cup fresh herbs, chopped (try basil,
parsley, rosemary, and/or chives)
Raspberry Sparklers
5 cups (1.25 mL) all purpose unbleached flour
½ cup (125 mL) fresh lemon juice
1 tsp (5 mL) salt
½ cup (125 mL) water
Vegetable oil
1 cup (250 mL) granulated sugar
About 2 Tbsp olive oil
4 cups (1 L) fresh or frozen raspberries
Coarse sea salt
Sparkling wine
1 Combine the warm water with the granu1 Combine lemon juice, water and granulated sugar. Sprinkle the yeast over top,
lated sugar in a saucepan with a heavy
and then stir to moisten. Let sit for 5 minbottom. Set over high heat and bring to
utes to activate the yeast.
the boil, stirring to dissolve sugar.
2 Meanwhile, whisk the milk with the eggs,
2 Stir in the raspberries, and bring to the boil
olive oil, and fresh herbs in one bowl, and
again, stirring frequently. When mixture
in another bowl sift the flour with the salt.
boils, remove from heat and let sit for half
When the yeast has “burbled,” stir in the
an hour. Strain into a clean non-metallic
milk mixture first, and then stir in the flour
container. Cool, cover and refrigerate.
and salt. When you can’t mix anymore with
3
4
5
6
a spoon, dump it out onto your counter,
and knead for five minutes, until the
dough comes together in a smooth ball.
Place dough into a bowl, pour a little vegetable oil over top and roll dough around
in the oil. Cover bowl with plastic wrap
and set aside for 1 to 2 hours, until dough
has doubled in bulk.
When dough has doubled in bulk, punch
down, and pinch off pieces that are about
the size of a golf ball. Using your hands,
press dough balls into roughly formed circles. Place onto parchment lined baking
sheet as your form them. You should be
able to make 18 to 20 flat breads.
Pre-heat your barbecue to medium-high.
Ensure the grill is very clean and well oiled.
When all the flat breads have been formed,
brush one side lightly with olive oil, sprinkle generously with salt, and place salt side
down onto the grill. Lower the heat and
close the lid for 3 minutes. Raise the lid and
check if your flatbreads are deep golden
brown, and ready to be turned. They only
take 8 to 10 minutes to cook.
Alwsahy!s
Fre
Breakfast • Lunch • Dinner
• Hors D’oeuvres
• Party Platters
• Salads • Finger Foods
• Cakes & Pastries
• Corporate Functions
• Private Parties
• Gourmet Sandwiches
Tanya Sand
-- • www.thegourmetlunchbox.ca
Serve warm, makes 18 to 20 flatbreads.
Chili-Rubbed Flank Steak
1 flank steak, approximately 1½ to 2 Lbs.
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 jalapeno pepper, seeded and minced
2 Tbsp (30 mL) fresh lime juice
¼ cup (60 mL) canola oil
2 Tbsp (30 mL) chili powder
¼ tsp (1 mL) ground cumin
¼ tsp (1 mL) cayenne pepper (or to taste)
1 In a small non-metallic bowl combine the
garlic with the jalapeno, lime juice, canola
oil, chili powder, cumin and cayenne.
2 Place meat into a large non-metallic pan
or a “zip-lock” bag. Spread chili mixture
over both sides of steak. Let marinate for
at least half an hour, and up to 2 hours.
3 Meanwhile, heat barbecue to high and oil
the grill well. Place steak on the hot grill
and cook to desired doneness, turning
only once. Remove steak from heat and
place on cutting board. Cover loosely with
foil and let sit for 10 minutes before slicing.
Serves 4-6
Continued on Page 46
$FSUJGJFE0SHBOJD
-PDBM1SPEVDF
Dolway Organic Garden
Thursdays and Saturdays
8am-1pm
Covent Garden
Outdoor Farmers Market
130 King Street, London
34
COOKBOOKS
Gordon Ramsay’s Fast Food
Review by Jennifer Gagel
F
or those who love wonderful, flavourful food, the term “fast food” has been
an anathema. No longer. TV’s
straight-talking (and notoriously foulmouthed) chef has reclaimed the phrase
and given us Gordon Ramsay’s Fast Food:
Recipes from the F Word
(Key Porter Books, 2008,
$35). The much loved
celebrity chef of Food Network’s Kitchen Nightmares,
Hell’s Kitchen and upcoming The F Word says, “My
campaign this time around
is to redefine the concept of
fast food and prove that anyone can prepare speedy
meals in less time than it takes
to get a pizza delivered.”
He provides 15 feature sections, such as Fast Soups, Fast
Working Lunches, and Fast Vegetarian, in
addition to 15 everyday menus and entertaining menus complete with timing plans.
Even the entertaining menus are less than
45 minutes.
There is no need to sacrifice gourmet
ingredients to prepare something quickly.
In addition to items you can easily find in
any grocery store, Ramsey’s ingredients
include such delicacies as quail, Iberian
ham, and Manchego, a creamy and slightly
piquant cheese that is just a bit salty. Then
he takes us to the next “foodie” level, combining taste with sustainability and practicality. “Hake is an underrated fish, which is
a shame because it has a subtle and delicious flavour, similar to cod,” notes Ramsay. “Best of all, it is environmentally
sustainable, yet inexpensive. It is also easy
to prepare as it has relatively few bones.”
His basic advice is simple: top quality
ingredients, a well stocked pantry, sharp,
good quality knives, and plan to have fresh
standbys, such as garlic and milk, always
on hand. Ramsay, however, moves the dis-
cussion far beyond basic with a diverse
repertoire of recipes that will rouse your
own culinary creativity.
Take the “Sea Trout with Fennel and
Watercress.” Less than 20 minutes start to
finish and so simple you can
simultaneously prepare something else. The flavour combinations and textures, however,
belie the lack of labour
involved. There will not be any
leftovers. Sherry vinegar is key;
red wine vinegar wasn’t quite
as good but substituting fresh
trout for the sea trout worked
just fine.
The “Veal Scallop with
Sautéed Vegetables” is an
excellent way to take
advantage of late summer’s
bounty, using peppers, zucchini and eggplant. The most time spent here is mincing
the veggies; a mandolin would make short
work of this.
On a hot summer day, cool flavours can
be refreshing, even in a warm soup. The
“Pea and Mint Soup with Prosciutto” fits
the bill, with the prosciutto lending a
savoury crispness in contrast. Ramsay suggests using fresh or frozen peas, but using
local fresh peas will make this burst in your
mouth. Even the cooking water, used to
thin the soup instead of broth, is flavourful.
To use up a surfeit of fruit, try the “Figs
and Blackberries Poached in Red Wine,” or
the “Baked Ricotta with Caramelized
Peaches.” Either of these recipes are substitution-friendly. Apricots worked marvellously well poached in red wine, and I’m
looking forward to putting my own spin on
this, trying white wine and herbs instead.
The baked ricotta would be equally delicious
with caramelized plums, or muskmelon, or
red currants. The possibilities are endless.
The book includes oodles of gorgeous
pictures, and is well indexed. There is a
recipe list, so it is easy to get back to something that struck you while browsing.
“It’s tempting and all too easy to blame a
hectic lifestyle for eating poorly,” writes
Ramsay, “but it only takes a bit of effort and
organization to make quick, healthy, delicious meals at home.” He’s right, and with
this book you will experience the satisfying,
and almost instant, gratification of real
“fast food.”
Pea & Mint Soup with Prosciutto
JENNIFER GAGEL’S love affair with food began as a child,
cooking for a family of food lovers and fickle eaters under
the tutelage of her two European grandmothers. She works
for the London Public Library, where she scours the cookbook section to plan her next culinary adventure.
Recipes courtesy of Gordon Ramsay’s Fast Food, Key Porter
Books, 2008.
Sea Trout with Fennel & Watercress
4 fennel bulbs, trimmed and tough outer
leaves removed
1 tsp (5 ml) fennel seeds
sea salt and black pepper
5 Tbsp (75 mL) olive oil, plus extra to drizzle
1½ tsp (7 mL) superfine sugar
1 Tbsp sherry vinegar
4 sea trout fillets, with skin, about 5oz (150
g) each
bunch of watercress, about 4 oz (125 g), well
washed and stems removed
1 Slice the fennel bulbs thinly. Crush the fennel seeds with a little salt using a mortar
and pestle.
2 Heat 3 Tbsp (45 mL) olive oil in a pan. Add
the sliced fennel and crushed fennel seeds.
Sprinkle over the sugar and cook over very
high heat for 10 minutes, stirring well.
3 Add the sherry vinegar and cook for
another 5 minutes until the fennel is soft
and caramelized.
4 Score the skin of the sea trout fillets at
close intervals with a sharp knife. Heat the
remaining oil in a wide sauté pan. Season
the fish and cook, skin side down, until
cooked two-thirds through. Flip over and
cook on the other side for 30 seconds.
5 Divide the fennel among four plates and
sit the fish fillets on top. Garnish with
watercress, drizzle with olive oil, and serve.
Serves 4
35
2 Tbsp (30 mL) olive oil, plus extra to drizzle
4 slices prosciutto, chopped
large handful of mint (about 6 sprigs),
leaves only
1 lb 2oz (500 g) peas (fresh or frozen)
generous 3/4 cup (175 mL) crème fraîche
1 Heat the olive oil in a skillet. Sprinkle the
prosciutto with black pepper and cook
over high heat until golden brown and
crisp, turning once. Drain in a colander,
then on paper towels to remove excess oil.
2 Add the mint leaves to a medium pan of
boiling salted water. Bring back to a boil,
then add the peas and blanch for 2 to 3
minutes until they are just tender and still
bright green. Drain, reserving the liquor.
3 Tip the peas and mint into a blender. Add
just enough of the hot liquor (about 2
cups/500 mL) to cover and whiz to a
smooth purée. Add a generous drizzle of
Continued on Page 46
“A delightfully charming story for
animal lovers of all ages.”
Lindsay
by Ann & David
David and Ann Lindsay owned and operated
Ann McColl’s Kitchen Shop with the help of their
animal friends in London
Ontario from  to .
Available at:
The Oxford Book Shop Ltd.
Attic Books
Jill’s Table
.
Sales benefit The London Humane Society
36
olive oil and all but 4 Tbsp (60 mL) crème
fraîche. Season with salt and pepper to
taste and pulse a few seconds to combine.
4 Pour the soup into warm bowls and dollop
the reserved crème fraîche on top. Scatter
the crispy prosciutto over it and serve.
Serves 4
Veal Scallop with Sautéed Vegetables
4 veal scallops, about 6oz (145 g) each ¼inch (5 mm) thick
4 Tbsp (60 mL) all-purpose flour
3 Tbsp (45 mL) olive oil
SAUTÉED VEGETABLES
1 red bell pepper, cored and seeded
1 yellow bell pepper, cored and seeded
1 medium eggplant, trimmed
1 zucchini, trimmed
4 Tbsp (60 mL) olive oil
1 garlic clove (unpeeled), smashed
few thyme sprigs
splash of balsamic vinegar
1 Mince the vegetables. Heat 3 Tbsp (45 mL)
olive oil in a large skillet with the garlic. Tip
in the bell peppers, eggplant, and thyme,
and cook over high heat for 3 to 4 minutes.
Add the zucchini.
2 Season and sauté for 2 minutes until the
vegetables are just tender. Take off the
heat and dress with the remaining olive oil
and balsamic vinegar; check the seasoning. Keep warm.
3 Coat the veal all over with the flour seasoned with salt and pepper, shaking off
excess. Heat the olive oil in a wide pan and
sauté the veal over high heat, 1½ minutes
each side, until golden brown. (Do this in
two batches if your pan is not wide enough.)
4 Transfer the scallops to warm plates and
spoon the sautéed vegetables over them.
Serves 4
Figs & Blackberries Poached in Red
Wine
1 vanilla bean
1 cup (250 mL) red wine (eg., a young merlot)
1 cinnamon stick
4 cloves
2 star anise
½ cup (125 mL) sugar
3 figs, cut into quarters
1 lb 2oz (500g) blackberries
generous 1 cup (250 mL) mascarpone
2 Tbsp (30 mL) confectioners’ sugar
1 Split the vanilla bean lengthwise, scrape
out the seeds with the back of the knife,
and set aside.
2 Put the wine, empty vanilla bean, cinnamon stick, cloves, star anise, and sugar into
a pan and slowly bring to a boil, stirring to
dissolve the sugar. Lower the heat to a
simmer, add the fruit, and poach gently for
8 to 10 minutes. Let cool completely.
3 Put the mascarpone into a bowl and sift in
the confectioners’ sugar. Add the reserved
vanilla seeds and beat well.
4 Divide the poached fruit among four bowls
and serve with the vanilla mascarpone.
Serves 4
Baked Ricotta with Caramelized
Peaches
2 Tbsp (30 mL) butter, plus extra to grease
⁄ cup (75 mL) confectioners’ sugar, plus 2
Tbsp (45-60 mL)
1 lb 2oz (500 g) ricotta cheese, drained
2 large eggs
finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon
3-4 Tbsp (45-60 mL) superfine sugar, to
dredge
4 ripe peaches, pitted and cut into wedges
1 Heat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Generously butter the base and sides of 4
ramekins, then dust with confectioners’
sugar, tilting the ramekins from side to
side to ensure an even coating.
2 Mix the ricotta, eggs, lemon zest, and confectioners” sugar in a large bowl with a
fork until evenly combined. Spoon into the
ramekins and stand on a baking sheet.
Bake for 15 to 20 minutes until golden
brown around the edges and quite firm in
the middle. Let cool.
3 Dredge the peach wedges in superfine
sugar. Pan-fry in a nonstick skillet with the
remaining butter until caramelized. Add
the lemon juice, shaking the pan to
deglaze. Take off the heat.
4 Turn out the ricottas onto individual
plates. Arrange the caramelized peaches
around and spoon over any pan juices to
serve.
Serves 4 summer 2008 • issue eleven
37
BOOKS
The Fruit Hunters
Review by Darin Cook
W
ith summertime upon us, there
are vast quantities and numerous
varieties of delectable local fruits
on offer in markets and roadside fruit
stands across Ontario, not to mention the
extra helping of imported exotic fruits that
line the grocery store shelves. But how
many of us know about
the stories of adventure
and commerce behind
those pyramids of mangos
and heaps of bananas? Or
about the staggering cornucopia of outlandish fruits
around the world that are not
even represented on our grocery shelves? Who knew, for
instance, there is such a specimen known as peanut butter
fruit? Or a charichuela that
tastes like lemonade-infused
cotton candy? Or apples that
taste like cinnamon? This is only
the tip of the iceberg of facts that crop up in
Adam Leith Gollner’s new book, The Fruit
Hunters: A Story of Nature, Adventure,
Commerce and Obsession (Doubleday
Canada, 2008, $29.95).
Most of us are unaware of the astronomical assortment of fruit available and Gollner’s unquenchable desire for his topic is
evident in the encyclopaedic tidbits of fruit
trivia throughout his book. For instance,
Japanese food researchers have designed
square watermelons to better fit on refrigerator shelves. I also learned there are so
many varieties of apples that one person
could eat an apple a day for 55 years and
never eat the same type twice. To that I can
only say: How do you like them apples? In
fact, the education in fruit diversity you get
from Gollner’s writing is dizzying at times
and it’s difficult to keep track of all the
fruits that by name and description do not
resemble anything in a typical grocery
store. But his adventures are so entertain-
ing that I forgive him for talking about
sapodillas and rambutans as if I know what
they are.
Gollner doesn’t stop with sampling fruits
around the world. He also interviews
dozens of quirky fruit experts and
others such as fruitarians (people
who only eat fruit) and people
suffering from haptodysphoria
(an irrational fear of fuzzy fruit).
We meet a self-professed fruit
detective who claims to turn
orange when he overindulges
in apricots, and fruit conservationists that oversee specimens on the brink of
extinction in a UNESCO-protected World Heritage Site in
the Seychelles.
Local fruits may be extra
tasty in the summer, but
Gollner has given us a whole new
array of fruits from which to chose, even
though it may be nearly impossible to taste
these delicacies domestically. There are
organizations, such as the Rare Fruit Council International, that study unusual fruits
and attempt to transplant seeds in North
America by starting them out in Florida’s
subtropical climate. As with any consumer
goods crossing borders, there are strict laws
to follow and when there are laws, there are
smugglers, or in this case, fruitleggers, who
illegally transport exotic fruits and seeds at
the risk of jail time and hefty fines.
Gollner’s solution is to travel to the countries that host these indigenous fruits, and
there to experience them in all their glory.
He guarantees that every trip and every
taste is well worth the effort. London resident DARIN COOK uses the knowledge gained
from his English degree from UWO to sell books, make cappuccinos and sometimes even write.
38
NEW AND NOTABLE
The BUZZ
Compiled by Chris McDonell
P
lans are well underway for the
Savour Stratford ’08 Culinary & Culture Festival on September 20-21.
eatdrink is proud to be one of the sponsors
of this celebration of Stratford and Perth
County food, artists, farmers, restaurants,
music, chefs and food artisans. The Stratford Chefs School is heavily involved, as
the event will also mark the 25th Anniversary & Homecoming of the school. There
will be a whole weekend of culinary events.
See the September issue of eatdrink for
more details.
The Church Restaurant sold out their
“Demystifying Molecular Gastronomy”
demonstration on June 26th. Chef Amédé
Lamarche demonstrated how his staff cre“A sacred place
where we
celebrate life
and each
other with
joy, warmth,
good food
and drink.”
www.mykonosrestaurant.ca
ate parmesan noodles, octopus bacon,
scallop noodles and fizzy grapefruit. Guests
discovered they can make “fizzy fruit”
themselves, with a whip cream syphon
with a soda cartridge. (For sale in Stratford
at Bradshaws, 129 Ontario St.) Who knew!
To attend the next demonstration, contact
The Church at 519-273-3424. Chef Amédé
has confirmed he’ll give cooking demonstrations at Savour Stratford ’08.
Stratford-Perth Museum will hold its
“Flavours of Perth” Pork BBQ on August
9, 5-7 pm at Shakespeare Optimist Hall. $7
children, $13 adults. Call 519-271-5311 or
contact jay@stratfordperthmuseum.ca for
more information.
mykonos
restaurant and takeout
Garden Patio
Open Daily
Bringing
GREECE to
London for Over
Years
30
inal
e Orig
Home of th
We Host Parties • From  to  • We Know How!
English s
 adelaide street, london
--
& Chip
Fish
Monday-Saturday: am-pm • Sunday: am-pm
Katafnéa
Ka
“A little out of
the way,
A lot out of
the ordinary!”
519-455-9005
Lunch 11 to 3 (7 days a week)
Dinner 5 to 10 (Wed to Sun)
Breakfast 9 to 12 (Sat & Sun)
2530 Blair Rd, London
Diamond Flight Centre
Danielle Brodhagen, Culinary Coordinatorfor Stratford Tourism Alliance, has
been working with Rundles Chef Neil Baxter to set up a system for other restaurants
similar to one Baxter uses for his vegetable
and fruit clippings. Rundles sends this
“waste” to a local pork farmer, Fred de
Martines. Paul “Fink” Finkelstein and his
high school restaurant The Screaming
Avacado have been working with de Martines in the same way, and Foster’s Inn
and The Old Prune are new participants to
the program. To get your restaurant
involved, contact Danielle at 519-271-5140,
ext. 2229.
Stratford Summer Music events with a culinary connection include After Theatre
Cabaret at The Church Restaurant, Thursday-Saturday, 11:30pm, July 24-August 16,
and Jazz at Pazzo, Friday and Saturdays,
August 1-16. Set times are 9:15, 10:15, 11:15pm.
Get more information at stratfordsummermusic.ca or contact each restaurant directly
for a reservation.
The new Five Senses Restaurant had a
restaurant with a somewhat similar
moniker in Toronto take umbrage and
decided to take a new name: Rene’s Bistro.
The website is now www.renescuisine.com.
Distinctly Tea has a new line of teas called
Me Teas: energize me; lose me; baby me;
beautify me and, so cute, leave me alone.
39
On August 14, Slow Food Perth will host a
local BBQ at the annual Virtual Blackout
Concert-Lakeside Drive Bandshell. They
are still looking for Perth County suppliers
and volunteers to get involved in this
fundraising event. Contact Danielle at 519801-5299 for more information.
McCully’s Hill Farm in St. Marys is keeping
the store open seven days a week now, from
9-5. And to celebrate one of our most important crops, the Farm is holding a new event
on Sunday, August 17. “CORNival” will be a
family fun day, with games of chance for the
younger members, horse drawn wagon
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The Fire Roasted Coffee Company
“Your Local Community Fair Trade Roaster”
Fine artesian coffees proudly roasted in London ON.
Over 50 single varieties and counting! Visit us at
your local Farmers Market or at our new Roastery.
Introduction to Home Roasting $20 – Wed, Aug
6, 6pm-8pm. Learn the fun art of roasting at home
and all attendees go home with ½ lb fresh coffee.
Taste of Africa Coffee Tasting $5– Wed, Aug 20,
6pm-8pm. Taste 12 different coffees from Africa,
the birthplace of coffee.
All classes are at our Roastery at 3392 Wonderland
Rd., Building 7, Unit 6. Register online at:
www.fireroastedcoffee.com or call 519-652-5225.
rides, family competitions, great food and
displays all about and around a theme of
corn. The Canadian Tug of War Team will be
appearing at 2:30 for a competition and then
a BBQ meal will be available in the evening.
The website (www.mccullys.ca) has details.
pantry items, organic products and gourmet-to-go foods to grateful cottagers and
local residents. All items are local/regional,
which the Gundy brothers say they “forage”
for, hence the name.
40
Grandpa Jimmy's Scottish Bakery in Grand
Bend moved to a larger location with café
seating in May. The bakery, owned and operated by Bob Hosford, a 4th-generation baker,
his wife Ruth and with help from son Alan
Hosford, is now located at 36 Ontario St. N.,
just north of the main town intersection. They
offer artisan-style baked goods made with
fresh organic and local ingredients and Scottish specalities such as haggis, beef and
turkey pies for take-out or eat-in.
Sam Gundy, former Innkeeper of The Little
Inn of Bayfield is now owner and operater of
Forager Foods (www.foragerfoods.ca), 2
Main Street, Bayfield. Sam gets help from
his brother Ben Gundy, the Executive Chef
at Jacobs & Co in Toronto. The store,
opened in May, sells a full line of deli and
So fast. So easy. So good!
At Dinner Revolution you can assemble
6 or 12 family-sized,
homemade entrées
in just two hours.
It’s easy. Go to
our website,
select your meals
from our monthly
menu and book a
session. We will do all
the shopping, chopping and clean up for
you. You’ll get your entrées in recyclable
freezer containers for delicious and
nutritious dinners available on
FREE
a moment’s notice.
Group Parties Welcome.
Assem
bly
Café Aux Sables opened this summer on the
north side of the Main street strip in Grand
Bend. It offers organic and sustainable coffee
from the Reunion Island Coffee Company.
The open air café has seating and internet
access and a variety of coffees along with
sweets baked by F.I.N.E. in Grand Bend.
In London, Blue Ginger is running its Summerlicious! specials again for the month of
July. Inspired by the large annual event of
the same name in Toronto (and wouldn’t it
be exciting to see this take off in London?),
Blue Ginger is offering two-course lunches
for $15 and three-course dinners for $35,
Sundays to Thursdays.
O zone Organics, a 100 organic fast food
restaurant using local ingredients, is now
looking for franchisees. The environmentally friendly business, in operation at the
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early summer 2008 • issue ten
southeast corner of Hyde Park and Fanshawe Park Roads for almost a year, has
worked out numerous issues to “change the
face of fast food” and is ready to spread out
across the country. For more info write
stubrown@ozoneorganics.com.
The Only On King is holding its First Annual
“Dam Dinner” on Saturday, August 9, at the
Arva Flour Mill. Tickets are required. For
details or reservations call 519-936-2064.
The Annual London Rib-Fest, entirely
operated by the Boys’ & Girls’ Club of London, will run Thursday, July 31 to Monday,
August 4, in Victoria Park. All proceeds go to
the Club to provide affordable recreational
activities for children, youth and seniors in
London. For more info go to the website at
www.bgclondon.ca/ribfest.html.
Does your business have news to share?
Don’t forget to be part of creating the buzz.
Email interesting local culinary news to:
editor@eatdrinkmag.net CHRIS MCDONELL is the publisher of eatdrink.
Downtown London’s Best Kept Secret
A relaxing atmosphere, a site overlooking
the Thames River, the elegance of a Baby Grand
and Golden Plate Award-winning
maitre d’extraordinaire Jack DiCarlo
and staff have made Michael’s on the Thames
one of the finest dining rooms in London.
With tableside cooking, flambéed desserts and coffees,
the restaurant specializes in continental cuisine.
Private Rooms Perfect for Bridal Parties and Rehearsal Dinners
Group-set Menus to Suit Any Budget
Affordable Lunches - Monday to Friday
Open for Dinner Every Day
1 York Street (Just West of Ridout,
Only 2 blocks from the John Labatt Centre)
519-672-0111
www.michaelsonthethames.com
Pianist Tuesday to Sunday Evenings
Plenty of FREE Parking
Gift Certificates Available
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42
WINE
Reds Like the Cool Climate Too
By Shari Darling
S
ome wine enthusiasts believe red
wine grape varieties prefer warm climates. It is true that certain reds like
the heat. But other varieties—pinot noir
and cabernet franc are two grapes worth
exploring—prefer cool climatic wine
regions, areas such as Ontario, Oregon,
Washington state and northern California.
And what about red Burgundy?
Pinot noir, for example, prefers a cool
climate. This grape buds and ripens
early, and so is best suited to cool to
marginal climates. In cool climates,
these grapes are able to stay on the vine
longer without “raisining.” As a result,
the wines are more complex.
In cool climate regions certain reds
acquire sugars during the day through
photosynthesis. Cool nights give the
grapes their higher level of acidity.
As a result, these wines are more
delicate and possess high aromatics, layers of complex flavours,
refreshing acidity, good structure,
and decent alcohol.
In warm climates, grapes
acquire greater sugar levels with
lower acidity. The resulting wines
are fuller bodied with high alcohol,
forward and darker berry flavours,
good structure, and less acidity.
One style of wine is not better than
the other. They both have their
place on the dinner table.
Many wine aficionados will tell
you that not only do some grapes prefer a
cool climate, but they also have the ability
for greater aging potential in the wine cellar.
In good years, cool climate reds possess the
ideal balance of fruitiness, acidity, alcohol
and tannin. This harmony of elements
works together over time, so the wine will
age well. Tannin is a preservative but tannin, alone, is not enough to give red wine its
aging potential. It will help a red last a long
time in the cellar but it does not ensure the
red will be enjoyable or even drinkable.
The wine also needs heightened fruit
flavours and a balance of the preservatives
of alcohol, tannin and acidity. I’ve tasted
many 20-year-old reds with excellent structure but collapsed fruit flavours. This is due
to insufficient acidity in the wine. With low
acidity, the fruit flavours over time, moved
from fresh, bright and ripe to cooked and
cloying. Good, balanced acidity comes naturally to cool climate red wines.
Cool climate reds are excellent food
wines. The bright acidity in these wines
clean the palate between bites. They can
have enough structure and alcohol to
stand up to fatty fish like salmon or tuna,
a juicy, tender steak or a slab of venison.
I enjoy reds from all climates.
Cool and warm reds have their place in
my cellar. Sometimes I feel like red
Burgundy and other times I crave
South African shiraz. Sometimes I’ll
alter elements in a dish to work
with a specific wine. A pasta with
tomato sauce can work with a cool
climate red or a warm climate one.
With red Burgundy, I use fresh
tomatoes for my sauce. The tomatoes retain their natural acidity,
which complements the wine’s
same sensation.
If I feel like an Australian shiraz or
South African grenache, I’ll served
pasta in a roasted tomato sauce.
Roasting concentrates the fruity
flavours and reduces the acidity. The wine’s
forward fruit character, then, matches the
concentrated fruitiness of the tomatoes.
Cool Climate Red Recommendations
Flat Rock Cellars Clone Research Pinot
Noir Gift Pack, lcbo 49569, $99.20, Ontario.
This is an awesome package consisting of
the same pinot noirs grown in the same
vineyard and picked and fermented in the
same manner. The difference? Each wine
derives from a different pinot noir clone. I
held a wine tasting for a few wine savvy
friends, featuring this gift package. I then paired all the wines
to various dishes. Flat Rock Cellars is known for producing outstanding pinot noirs. Each of the
wines are well built with good
structure, big flavours and
decent finishes. Serve these with miso soup
and sushi of salmon, tuna and sword fish.
Kacaba 2006 Pinot Noir, $18.95, available
through the winery (kacaba.com). This is a
lovely Ontario pinot noir with
great aromatics, medium body
and layers of complexity. The
flavours range from ripe raspberry to leather and cedar. Pair
this wine with grilled salmon.
Serve this wine with a salad of
greens highlighting a toasted walnut and
blue cheese dressing.
Stoneleigh Marlborough Pinot Noir,
lcbo 54353, $19.95, New Zealand. This is a
wonderful pinot noir with bright acidity, velvety texture and red berry fruit flavours,
offering great value for its price. Try a
tomato gazpacho with fresh herbs.
Domaine de la Noblate
Chinon Les Chiens-Chiens
2005, lcbo 76646, $19.95,
France. This is a classic red
Burgundy with light body,
good acidity, and aromas and
flavours reminiscent of dark
berries, cloves, spice and some smokiness
lingering in the background. Roast
chicken with Herbes de Provence would
shine alongside this wine.
Colio Estate Cabernet Franc,
lcbo 297184, $10.90, Ontario.
This easy drinking Cab Franc
shows Ontario is capable of producing reds with lots of body,
good acidity and bright berry
flavours. This is an ideal wine for
barbecued burgers and chicken. 43
SHARI DARLING is a member of the Wine Writers’ Circle of
Canada and author of Orgasmic Appetizers and Matching
Wines (2008) and Harmony on the Palate (2005). She can
be reached through her website: sophisticatedwino.com.
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44
BEER
Take a Summer Brew Tour
By The Malt Monk
S
ummer has hit with full force and
we’re enjoying getting outside into the
warm weather. It’s also the time of
year when we can take a few days off to
travel and enjoy the countryside. Can you
say: Brew Tour? I can personally vouch that
there is nothing better than visiting microbreweries to sample their latest wares and
seasonals, fresh from the source.
The craft/micro brewing industry arose to
fill a demand for the wider variety of styles
in European imports and the
taste of fresh real ales and
lagers. Many brewers had to
locate out of major market
areas to find affordable brewery locations. As a result,
many are located in quaint
rural villages and towns with
historical ambience.
Brewing in small local markets re-established fresh beer as a local
restaurant and pub commodity in many
Canadian towns. Locally crafted beer, slow
processed the traditional way with top grade
natural ingredients, in small batches to be
consumed quickly, is a return to the traditional brewing culture Canada once knew.
Beer was always FRESH! Beer from independent craft brewers is a return to the way
things were before politics (prohibition) and
post-war corporate consolidation and
national branding took their toll on fresh
full-bodied real beer.
Craft brewers are generally more artisan
than corporate. They take pride in their craft
and are happy to let you sample their brews,
tour the brewery and chat about beer and
brewing. Since they sell into the local
upscale dining and pub market, they can
also recommend where to get a good meal.
A Brew Tour is a great summer pastime,
with a payoff at the end of the journey.
There are over 40 craft beer microbrewers in the Ontario market and most have a
brewery hospitality room and retail store.
Check the Ontario craft Brewer’s website
(www.ontariocraftbrewers.com), but my
list is shorter. I recommend the breweries
below both for product and the experience
you will have there.
London Area
Railway City Brewing Company, 168 Curtis Street, St.Thomas, ON. 519-631-1881
(www.railwaycitybrewing.com). This is a
great little local micro brewer producing 3
traditional beers which are
available fresh for home consumption.
The King Edward, 13239
Ilderton Road, Ilderton, ON.
519-666-1991 (www.thekingedward.com). Not a brewer,
but one of the best craft beer
pubs in the province. Good
variety of craft beer on tap .
The only place in the region to get a hand
pulled pint of cask-conditioned real ale.
Cottage Country
Neustadt Springs Brewery, 456 Jacob St,
Neustadt, ON. 519-799-5790 (www.neustadtsprings.com) Ontario’s oldest operating brewery, in an incredible historic town
and building. Several of the best traditional
ales around make this worth a visit.
Hockley Valley Brewing Co. 25 Centennial Rd. Orangeville, ON 519-941-8887
(www.hockleybeer.ca). Newly relocated in
Orangeville. Brewer of a great Brown ale
and stout.
Creemore Springs Brewery, 139 Mill
Street, Creemore, ON 800-267-2240
(www.creemoresprings.com ). Still making
great crafted lagers.
Lakes of Muskoka Cottage Brewery, 13
Taylor Rd., Bracebridge ON, 800-881–4229
(www.muskokabrewery.com). Great
brewer with some great organic beers,
Totally under valued. Worth stopping in on
the way to the cottage.
Waterloo-Wellington Area
(www.heritagebrewing.com). Home of the
famous Sgt. Major’s IPA, John By Stout and
Heritage ales.
Grand River Brewing, 295 Ainslie Street,
Cambridge, ON. 519-620-3233 (www.grandriverbrewing.com). Great ambiance, highly
rated beers and ales.
The Castle on King, 1508 King Street E.,
Kitchener, ON. 519-578-0015 (www.castleonking.com). Home of the famous “Executioner’s Ale,” the most intense IPA in the
province.
Lion Brewpub and Restaurant/Gold
Crown Brewery, 59 King Street N., Waterloo, ON. 519-886-3350 (www.huetherhotel.com/pdf/HuetherHotel.pdf ). Best German
beer in the province served fresh. Good
food and a retail store.
Wellington County Brewery, 950 Woodlawn Road Guelph, ON. 519-837-2337
(www.wellingtonbrewery.ca). Best English ales in Ontario, an award winning
brewery.
Toronto
Mill St. Brewery, 55 Mill Street-Building 63, Toronto, ON. 416-681-0338
(www.millstreetbrewery.com). World
class brew pub and restaurant in the
upscale old distillery district mall.
Highly recommended.
C’est What Brewpub, 67 Front
Street E., Toronto, ON. 416-867-9499
(www.cestwhat.com). Home of the
famous County Durham cask ales.
Northeastern Ontario
Church-Key Brewing, 1678 County
Road 38, Pethericks Corners (outside Campbellford) 705-653-9950
(www.churchkeybrewing.com).
Historic building, breat crafted
beers on the Trent Canal loop.
Olde Stone Brewing, 380 George Street
N. Peterborough, ON. 705-745–0495
(www.ptbo.igs.net/~theguide/oldstone.htm).
Gaining a fine reputation for traditional
ales.
Beaus All Natural Brewing Co., 10 Terry
Fox Drive, Vankleek Hill, ON, 613-676-2337
(www.beaus.ca). Award winning brewer of
a delicate rare German blonde ale called
Kolsch, well worth a stop and sample.
Scotch-Irish/Heritage Brewing, 40 Bennett St. Carleton Place, ON. 613-257-7845
45
Summer Beer Festivals
Although the London and Kitchener Beer
Festivals just passed, you can still let the
brewers come to you and sample their
wares in a festive open air venue. Here are
some of the larger more important festivals
happening locally this summer:
Toronto’s Festival of Beer-Fort York.
Thu Aug 7 to Sun Aug 10 2008. 647-724-1130
or order online at https://secure.gettickets.
ca/?event=11232.
Buffalo Brewfest. Sat Aug 23 2008. HSBC
Arena, Buffalo, NY (Tickets at the door).
Creemore Copper Kettle Festival. Sat
Aug 23 2008. Creemore Springs Brewery, Creemore ON (Tickets at the door).
La Fête Bières & Saveurs de Chambly. Fri Aug 29 to Mon Sep 1 2008.
Chambly, Quebec. This is a wonderful
craft beer and folk fest in a beautiful
historic locale. 450-447-2096 or visit
http://www.bieresetsaveurs.com/
chambly-beer-festival.htm).
Taste Of the Month
Edelweiss Snowfresh Weissbier
(lcbo 73718). This is one of those
unexpected finds. A commercial
Austrian hefeweiss brewer (Brauerei
Kaltenhausen) AKA “Edelweiss
Brewery,” has created a new hybrid
wheat ale. It’s a cross between a witbier and a hefeweiss with a wondeful unique alpen herbal aroma and
taste. Aroma is bready, spice and a
hint of banana and melon, hazy
pale yellow, firm white head,
spritzy. Tastes of biscuit, a trace of banana,
a dab of honey, herbs- spice is subtle. Light
bodied, balanced, dry and very easy drinking. A very refreshing summer beer. THE MALT MONK is the alter ego of D.R. Hammond, an
industrial consultant by day and a passionate supporter of
craft beer culture. A home brewer and an active reviewer
and consumer of craft beers for as long as he cares to
remember, D.R. can be found anywhere there is a celebration of the traditional craft brewing art and good food.
46
THE LIGHTER SIDE
His Cup Runneth Over
By Terry Dooner
I
was sitting in the aisle seat on an airplane. Not long after takeoff, I ordered a
beer. The gentleman in the row in front
of me, on the opposite aisle seat, also
ordered a beer.
The flight attendant came down the aisle
and put an open can of beer on the gentleman’s tray-table and did the same for me.
I immediately noticed that the gentleman’s
can of beer was frothing over the top and
beer was running down the side of the can.
He was talking to the person beside him
and didn’t notice.
I watched as the beer ran down the side
of the can, across the tray table and started
to drip into his lap.
I didn’t know what to do. Should I tell
him? Surely he would notice any second
now.
I continued to watch. More beer poured
into his lap.
After 30 seconds or so had passed, he
turned his head and saw what was happening. He jumped in his seat and started
grabbing for paper to wipe up the mess. I
laughed pretty hard.
Then I looked down. My beer had done
exactly the same thing and my lap was
soaking wet too. TERRY DOONER is retired and lives in London. He now
enjoys beer in his hot tub. Terry received 4 passes to the
London Beer Festival for his contribution.
Have a funny story to tell, with a gastronomic bent? Send your story (400-600 words) to:
editor@eatdrinkmag.net. Winning entries will get a
50 gift certificate from a great restaurant!
Grilling Season is Right on ’Cue (continued from Page 31)
Grilled Summer Vegetable Salad
2 cups corn, grilled (about 4 cobs of fresh
corn)
½ red onion, grilled then diced
2 zucchini, sliced in half lengthwise, grilled
and then diced
1 medium red pepper, diced
2 tomatoes, seeded and diced
2 jalapeno peppers, seeded and diced
½ cup (125 mL) cilantro, chopped
DRESSING
2 cloves garlic, minced
½ cup (125 mL) canola oil
3 Tbsp (45 mL) cider vinegar
½ tsp (2.5 mL) ground cumin
Salt and pepper, to taste
1 To grill corn, it is best to soak the unhusked
cobs in a pail of water for a few hours
before grilling. Pull off the tassels as well.
2 Heat barbecue to high, place soaked corn
on grill, adjusting heat and turning as necessary. Close lid and let corn cook, it only
takes about 10–15 minutes. The husks will
burn. Let cool for a few minutes before
husking, then slice the kernels off of the
cob.
3 Grill the zucchini and red onion at the
same time as you are grilling the corn. Let
cool, and then dice.
4 Combine corn, red onion, zucchini, red
pepper, tomatoes, jalapenos, and cilantro
in a large bowl.
5 In a small bowl, combine the garlic with
the oil, cider vinegar, cumin, and salt and
pepper. Pour salad dressing over salad
ingredients, and serve immediately at
room temperature for best flavour.
Serves 8. CHRISTINE SCHEER is a chef who lives with her family on
an organic farm. She currently runs the Oakridge Superstore cooking school. Her passions include using seasonal,
local ingredients and teaching children how to cook. You can
reach Christine at: dolwayorganicgarden@sympatico.ca.
Written by W.S. Gilbert,
Composed by Arthur Sullivan
Directed by Susan Ferley
A swashbuckling
musical comedy for
the whole family.
September 23
to October 4
TITLE SPONSOR
Live at The Grand!
Call 519-672-8800 for tickets or
buy online at grandtheatre.com
SPONSORED IN PART BY
“The secret
is out. This
is a place
to dine ...”
Classic French
and Mediterranean
Cuisine
Extensive Wine Cellar
Lunch and Dinner
Tuesday to Saturday
Private Dining
Rooms Available
Closer than you think, we’re a relaxed
20-minute drive North of London,
straight out Richmond Street (Highway 4).
Wilberforce Inn
161 Main Street,
Lucan
Plenty of free parking.
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online extra 1
CHEFS
Pan-Seared Whitefish with Mini Vegetable Bundles, Potato Crisps
and Arugula Cream Sauce
Recipe courtesy of Chef Joseph Watters of The Little Inn of Bayfield
Time: 1.5 hours.
Serves 4.
FOR THE FISH
2 small white fish (600 to 700 grams)
Butter
Soy oil
Salt and pepper
MINI VEGETABLE BUNCHES
12 mini fan carrots
12 mini zuchinni
8 patty pans
1 bunch of long stemmed chives
POTATO CRISPS
4 large Yukon gold potatoes
Olive oil
Sea salt
Freshly ground pepper
ARUGULA CREAM SAUCE
4oo g arugula
400 g cream
Reduced or powdered chicken stock
Salt and pepper
GARNISH
Chervril
fleur de sel
edible flowers
1 Bring salted water to a boil to blanche all
mini vegetables.
2 Reduce the cream in a small sauce pan for
the arugula sauce.
3 Peel the potatoes, then cut them into ½inch thin round slices. Put the potato slices
in a small pot of salter water, bring to a
boil, then strain into cold water.
4 Heat a nonstick frying pan with olive oil to
high heat. Caramelize both sides of the
potato slices, place them on a paper towel
and season with sea salt.
5 Wash all the miniature vegetables, then
blanche them individually in the simmering salted water. When you can insert the
tip of a knife in and out of the vegetables
with ease, they are cooked and should be
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
chilled in an ice bath immediately. This
stops the cooking process and keeps their
colour.
Blanche and cool the chives in the same
manner. Tie the carrots into bundles of 3
with the chives, and do the same with the
zuchinni. Slice the patty pans in half and
reserve all prepared vegetables for plating,
Put the cleaned arugula in the blender and
pore the hot reduced cream over it and
blend for 3 minutes. Add the chicken stock
and salt and pepper to taste. Pour into a
sauce pan and reserve for plating.
Heat 2 large nonstick frying pans with soy
oil and non-salted butter. Trim the white
fish and season thefilets with sea salt and
freshly ground pepper. Once the butter
begins to mousse, lay 2 filets in each pan,
pushing them gently to make sure they
don’t curl. Cook on moderate heat to crisp
the skin of the fish. When nearly cooked,
lay them flesh side down on a kitchen
towel and reserve for plating.
Heat all the vegetables in a shallow
amount of water and butter, salt and pepper.
Heat the potatoes in the oven at 300ºF.
Whisk the arugula cream sauce on low
heat.
Heat up 4 large plates in the oven for 2
minutes. Lay the potato crisp in the center
of the plates. Place the vegetable on the
potato crisps in order: zuchinni, patty pan,
carrots. Place the white fish skin side up on
the mini vegetables.
Garnish with chervril, fresh edible flowers
and fleur de sel
Spoon on the arugula cream sauce in a
decorative manner.
Wine Pairing Suggestion: Sauvignon blanc

eat drink HURON WATTERS

Transcription

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