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The Incomplete Guide To
NICARAGUA
2005 Mark E. Halliday
By
MARK HALLIDAY
www.MrHalliday.com
MrHalliday@Yahoo.com
512.346.8285
INCOMPLETE GUIDE to NICARAGUA by Mark Halliday
TABLE OF CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION .................................................................................................6
THE LAND ......................................................................................................... 7
GEOGRAPHY ................................................................................................... 7
CLIMATE ........................................................................................................ 7
ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES................................................................................. 7
FLORA AND FAUNA............................................................................................. 8
FLORA ........................................................................................................... 8
MAMMALS ...................................................................................................... 8
BIRDS, FISH, AND REPTILES ............................................................................ 8
HISTORY........................................................................................................... 9
PRE-COLOMBIAN HISTORY ............................................................................... 9
EARLY HISTORY .............................................................................................. 9
COLONIALISM................................................................................................. 9
CONTEMPORARY TIMES ................................................................................... 9
GOVERNMENT.................................................................................................. 10
ORGANIZATION ............................................................................................ 10
POLITICAL PARTIES....................................................................................... 10
ELECTIONS................................................................................................... 10
JUDICIAL AND PENAL SYSTEMS ...................................................................... 11
THE WAR ON DRUGS ..................................................................................... 11
ECONOMY ....................................................................................................... 12
AGRICULTURE............................................................................................... 12
INDUSTRY .................................................................................................... 12
RICH AND POOR ........................................................................................... 12
TOURISM ..................................................................................................... 12
THE PEOPLE .................................................................................................... 13
DEMOGRAPHY............................................................................................... 13
RELIGION..................................................................................................... 13
LANGUAGE ................................................................................................... 13
CONDUCT AND CUSTOMS............................................................................... 13
2
ON THE ROAD ..................................................................................................14
SIGHTSEEING HIGHLIGHTS............................................................................... 14
SPORTS AND RECREATION................................................................................ 14
ARTS AND ENTERTAINMENT .............................................................................. 15
FINE ARTS.................................................................................................... 15
CRAFTS........................................................................................................ 15
ENTERTAINMENT........................................................................................... 15
SHOPPING.................................................................................................... 15
ACCOMMODATIONS.......................................................................................... 16
FOOD ............................................................................................................. 17
GETTING THERE .............................................................................................. 18
BY AIR ......................................................................................................... 18
BY LAND ...................................................................................................... 18
BY SEA ........................................................................................................ 18
GETTING AROUND ........................................................................................... 19
IMMIGRATION AND CUSTOMS ........................................................................... 20
VISAS .......................................................................................................... 20
CUSTOMS..................................................................................................... 20
SPECIAL INTERESTS......................................................................................... 20
HEALTH AND SAFETY........................................................................................ 21
SAFETY ........................................................................................................ 21
MONEY, MEASUREMENTS, AND COMMUNICATIONS .............................................. 22
CURRENCY ................................................................................................... 22
EXCHANGE ................................................................................................... 22
WEIGHTS AND MEASURES.............................................................................. 23
PUBLIC HOLIDAYS......................................................................................... 23
COMMUNICATIONS AND MEDIA ...................................................................... 23
MAPS AND INFORMATION .............................................................................. 24
WHAT TO TAKE................................................................................................ 24
FILM AND PHOTOGRAPHY ................................................................................. 24
MANAGUA AND VICINITY.................................................................................25
MANAGUA ....................................................................................................... 25
MONTELIMAR AND VICINITY.............................................................................. 29
MONTELIMAR................................................................................................ 29
MASACHAPA ................................................................................................. 29
POCHOMIL.................................................................................................... 29
MASAYA AND VICINITY ...................................................................................30
MASAYA.......................................................................................................... 30
MASAYA VOLCANO NATIONAL PARK ................................................................... 32
JINOTEPE AND PUEBLOS BLANCOS .................................................................... 32
3
GRANADA AND VICINITY .................................................................................33
GRANADA ....................................................................................................... 33
LAS ISLETAS ................................................................................................... 35
ISLA ZAPATERA NATIONAL PARK ....................................................................... 35
MOMBACHO VOLCANO NATURAL RESERVE .......................................................... 35
NORTHWEST NICARAGUA ................................................................................36
LEON .............................................................................................................. 36
CHINANDEGA .................................................................................................. 40
NORTH-CENTRAL NICARAGUA..........................................................................41
MATAGALPA .................................................................................................... 41
JINOTEGA ....................................................................................................... 44
ESTELI............................................................................................................ 45
OCOTAL .......................................................................................................... 46
LAKE NICARAGUA AND RIO SAN JUAN.............................................................47
OMETEPE ISLAND............................................................................................. 47
SAN CARLOS ................................................................................................... 49
ARCHIPELAGO DE SOLENTINAME ....................................................................... 50
SAN JUAN DEL SUR AND RIVAS........................................................................51
SAN JUAN DEL SUR .......................................................................................... 51
AROUND SAN JUAN DEL SUR............................................................................. 53
MAJAGUAL BEACH RESORT............................................................................. 53
PUNTA LA FLOR............................................................................................. 53
RIVAS and SAN JORGE ..................................................................................... 54
SOUTHERN ATLANTIC AUTONOMOUS REGION (RAAS).....................................55
BLUEFIELDS .................................................................................................... 56
PEARL ARCHIPELAGO ....................................................................................... 57
CORN ISLANDS................................................................................................ 58
NORTHERN ATLANTIC AUTONOMOUS REGION (RAAN) ....................................65
PUERTO CABEZAS ............................................................................................ 65
SANDY BAY ..................................................................................................... 66
MISKITO KEYS................................................................................................. 66
CABO A GRACIAS A DIOS.................................................................................. 66
MINAS, ROSITA AND SIUNA .............................................................................. 66
RIO COCO ....................................................................................................... 66
BOOKLIST ........................................................................................................67
SPANISH PHRASEBOOK ...................................................................................68
GLOSSARY .......................................................................................................68
INDEX ..............................................................................................................68
ABOUT THE AUTHOR ........................................................................................68
4
LIST OF MAPS
NICARAGUA – POLITICAL
NICARAGUA- VEGETATION TYPES
MANAGUA - REGIONAL
MANAGUA – CITY
MANAGUA – DETAIL
GRENADA – REGIONAL
GRENADA – CITY DETAIL
MASAYA – REGIONAL
MASAYA – CITY
MASAYA – NATIONAL PARK
JINOTEPE - DETAIL
OMETEPE ISLAND
SAN JUAN DEL SUR AND RIVAS - REGIONAL
SAN JUAN DEL SUR - DETAIL
RIVAS – DETAIL
NORTHWEST – REGIONAL
LEON – DETAIL
CHINANDEGA – DETAIL
NORTH-CENTRAL REGIONAL
MATAGALPA – DETAIL
JINOTEGA – DETAIL
ESTELI – DETAIL
ATLANTIC COAST – REGIONAL
PUERTO CABEZAS – DETAIL
BLUEFIELDS – DETAIL
BIG CORN ISLAND – DETAIL
LITTLE CORN ISLAND - DETAIL
5
INTRODUCTION
NICARAGUA HIGHLIGHTS
SUGGESTED ITINERARY (TWO-WEEK TRIP)
Managua- 2 nights, city tour
Grenada – 3 nights, day trips to
Las Isletas
Volcan Mombacho Reserve
Masaya Volcano National Park
Masaya Handicrafts market
San Juan del Sur – 2 nights, Day Trip to Majagual
Corn Islands – 4 nights, 2 on each island
THE BEST BEACHES
Corn Islands
San Juan del Sur
BEST BIRDWATCHING SITES
Bosawas Reserve
Ometepe Island
Los Guatuzos Reserve
BEST ADVENTURE HIKING REGIONS
Volcan Madera – Ometepe Island
Selva Negra Reserve
BEST PLACES TO MEET OTHER TRAVELLERS
Majagual Beach Resort – San Juan del Sur
Shannon Bar, Managua
BEST COLONIAL TOWNS AND VILLAGES
Grenada
Leon
Jinotepe
6
THE LAND
GEOGRAPHY
CLIMATE
Temperatures
Geological Setting
Mountain Ranges
Oceans
Valleys and Rivers
Precipitation
Hurricanes and Tropical Storms
Temperature Chart
Lakes and Lagoons
Islands
Reefs
ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES
Illegal Logging and Eco-Tourism in the
Bosawas National Forest Reserve
Volcanoes
Earthquakes
Tectonic plates
7
FLORA AND FAUNA
FLORA
Humid Tropical Forest (rainforest)
Armadillos, Anteaters, and Sloths
Peccaries
Cloud Forest
Bats
Highland Pine Forest
Other Mammals
Marine Mammals
Dry Forests
BIRDS, FISH, AND REPTILES
Savanna
Birds
Mangrove Wetland
Fish
MAMMALS
Monkeys
Cats
Reptiles and Amphibians
Insects and Arachnids
Tapirs
8
HISTORY
PRE-COLOMBIAN HISTORY
CONTEMPORARY TIMES
The Sandinista Revolution
EARLY HISTORY
The 1862 Postage Stamp that Derailed the
Nicaragua Canal
COLONIALISM
COMMANDER ZERO
Eden Pastora, “Commander Zero'
was the most charismatic leader of
the Sandinista guerrilla army that
defeated the forces of Nicaraguan
dictator Anastasio Somoza in 1979.
His daring seizure of the national
palace in August 1978 to secure the
release of 59 compatriots held by
Somoza captured the imagination
of the Nicaraguan people and the
world. Yet by April 1982 he had
become disillusioned with the
revolutionary government that he
had helped to install and issued a
public statement from Costa Rica
breaking with the Sandinistas.
Daniel Ortega
Aleman Guzman
Hurricane Mitch and Casitas Volcano
Tragedy
9
GOVERNMENT
ORGANIZATION
POLITICAL PARTIES
FSLN
PLC
YATAMA
ELECTIONS
Election Observers in Grenada,
Nov 2000 election
10
JUDICIAL AND PENAL SYSTEMS
THE WAR ON DRUGS
Canadian Investors in Nicaragua Hemp Farm Jailed Courtesy of DEA
December 28, 1999, Nicaragua frees Canadian
hemp grower, By Mark Stevenson
A horticulturist from Burlington has been cleared of all charges and released from a Nicaraguan prison in a
case involving a Canadian-run hemp plantation, U.S. drug enforcement officials and "one of the largest
marijuana busts" in Nicaragua's history. A Nicaraguan court of appeal has thrown out all charges against
Paul Wylie, 46, and all members of Hemp-Agro International who were charged with drug trafficking after
police, acting on advice from the U.S. Drug Enforcement Agency, raided the company's 160-hectare hemp
farm outside Managua, the country's capital, last December.
"Mr. Wylie and all members of the firm Hemp-Agro International have been cleared of all charges by a
Nicaragua court," said Patrick Riel, a spokesman for the Department of Foreign Affairs. The decision comes
almost a year after Mr. Wylie's arrest. All along, company officials have denied the drug cultivating charges.
They have said the farm was used to grow industrial hemp, which is legal in most countries, including
Nicaragua.
Nicaraguan police raided the plantation last December and arrested Mr. Wylie, who narrowly escaped being
shot. They seized documents, burned crops and charged six other Canadians and a Nicaraguan with drug
cultivation. But while his colleagues were in Canada waiting to hear if they would be extradited to face their
charges, Mr. Wylie languished in a filthy Nicaraguan prison. In his first interview since his release from
custody, Mr. Wylie said even Canadian diplomats were skeptical of his innocence.
Reached at a relative's home where he is recovering from a gallbladder operation, Mr. Wylie said he was the
victim of the U.S. war on drugs and a political struggle between the liberal Nicaraguan regime and the leftwing Sandinistas. "We were innocent all along and we committed no crime, so they had to let me go. Hemp is
not marijuana," said Mr. Wylie. He is reluctant to release many details because he is working with a U.S.
publishing house regarding a book and a possible movie about his ordeal.
"We had complete government approval and all the necessary permits. And just when we were at the point
when things were going well all this hit the fan." The case also involved the U.S. Drug Enforcement Agency,
which admits an agent had "inspected" the plantation and provided technical advice to Nicaraguan officials
before a judge ruled the $1-million crop be destroyed. But U.S. officials said the decision to carry out the
armed raid was made by Nicaraguans alone.
Mr. Wylie said that after he was released from prison, Canadian diplomats told him to leave the country
because there could be threats against his life. He said the prison was plagued with tuberculosis, dengue
fever and bronchitis. He was robbed at knifepoint. There were no beds or cooking utensils and little food
except for the rice scooped into his hand from a dirty pot by a guard.
Mr. Wylie said his nephew and girlfriend sent $700 a week to bribe officials and buy him food and proper
clothes. Still, he lost 40 pounds in prison. Relatives tried to get Mr. Wylie out of prison to have an ailing
gallbladder removed, to no avail. Mr. Wylie says he is now trying to regain his health and recover from the
emotional damage he suffered. Mr. Wylie says that only days before he was released this month, he learned
his 21-year-old son, who lived in Saskatchewan, had died in a car accident. Burlington-based Hemp-Agro
International, meanwhile, is preparing a civil suit to recover damages.
"I just can believe I went through that and made it out alive," he says. "It has strengthened my faith in God."
11
ECONOMY
AGRICULTURE
RICH AND POOR
INDUSTRY
Dry Canal across Nicaragua
MANAGUA — Half-buried in the sand of
an isolated, palm-fringed Caribbean
beach, a few old railroad wheels lie
rusting. They were left at Monkey
Point in 1903, local people say, by
some Germans who started building a
railroad across Nicaragua. They never
got far, though. The project
foundered, and in 1910 the U. S.
Marines landed to put an end to
Nicaragua's commercial flirtations with
Europe and Japan……...
TOURISM
Tourism is now the second largest
industry in Nicaragua, and is growing
more rapidly than in any of its Central
American neighbors.
Tourists are most likely to come
from Honduras, Costa Rica, United
States, Spain, and Germany. The
average tourist spent $70 per day in
1997 (update this..). The average stay
was only 3 days.
http://www.speakeasy.org/~peterc/nicaragua/
drycanal/drycanal.htm
12
THE PEOPLE
DEMOGRAPHY
Population
4.6 million
CONDUCT AND CUSTOMS
Clothing
Ethnic Divisions
Hispanic
Creole
Miskito
RELIGION
Body Language
Terms of Address
Ecotourism
Catholic
Protestant
Rabdomancia
Técnica usada na antiguidade para a
localização de minérios e nascentes de
água potável. Os rabdomancistas
usavam a forquilha tirada de uma árvore
de galhos finos e flexíveis. (translate)
Living in Nicaragua –
The Expatriate Scene –
Residency Requirements
LANGUAGE
Spanish
Spanish Language Schools
English
Indigenous Languages
13
ON THE ROAD
SIGHTSEEING HIGHLIGHTS
Highlights
Planning your trip
Top Ten list
Sample itineraries
SPORTS AND RECREATION
Hunting
Snorkeling
Fishing
ATVs
Birdwatching
Horseback Riding
Water sports
Golf
Lakes
Tennis
Rivers
Rock hounding
Oceans
Hiking
Surfing
Backpacking
Canoeing
Rock climbing
Rafting
Spelunking
Kayaking
Reference the article CASKE2000 –
Central American Sea Kayaking
Expedition
Equipment rental, lessons, safety
Camping
Parks
Sailing
Scuba diving
Spectator Sports
14
ARTS AND ENTERTAINMENT
FINE ARTS
Museums
Gambling
Spectator sports
Galleries
Theater and Dance
SHOPPING
Music
Business Hours
CRAFTS
Chain Stores and Malls
Textiles
Native Crafts
Pottery
Bookstores
Woodcarving
Painting
Jewelry
ENTERTAINMENT
Nightlife--bars, discos, clubs (cover
charge?)
15
ACCOMMODATIONS
Accommodation Prices
Guesthouses
Hotels and Motels
Bed and Breakfasts
Homestay programs
Hosteling
Camping and RV parks
State and National Parks
camping reservations
facilities
fees
16
FOOD
WHERE TO EAT
WHAT TO EAT
Breakfast
Snacks
Vegetarian Food
Native and Traditional Food
BUYING GROCERIES
BEVERAGES
Nonalcoholic Drinks
Alcohol
Flor de Cana Rum
Victoria Beer
Liquor laws
Breweries
17
GETTING THERE
BY AIR
American Airlines, tel 800-433-7300
Miami non-stop, New York and major
U.S. cities (via Miami)
Continental, tel 800-525-0280, Houston
BY LAND
With Car
International Bus
Ticabus from San Jose, Costa Rica.
Taca tel 800-535-8780
New York, Miami, and Houston, via San
Salvador
BY SEA
Aviateca, tel 800-327-9832
Miami, San Francisco via Guatemala
Air Transat, tel 877-872-6728
Toronto & Montreal non-stop
Passenger Boat
Nica, tel 800-831-6422
Miami non-stop
Cruise Ship
Global Travel Club, UK company
operating in Belize since 1987, has been
operating a small cruise liner on a
Caribbean Coast itinerary from Belize to
Panama, with stops in Nicaragua at the
Miskito Keys, Pearl Lagoon, Bluefields,
and Corn Islands Tel: +44 (0)1268
541732 Fax: +44 (0)1268 541363 email:
info@global-travel.co.uk , website
www.global-travel.co.uk/gtc.htmt
Lacsa Airlines, tel 800-225-2272
Miami non-stop
San Jose, Costa Rica
Mexicana, tel 800-531-7921
New York, Denver, etc., via Mexico City
COPA, tel 800-359-2672
Panama
Iberia, tel 800-772-4642
Madrid, Miami
Private Boat
18
GETTING AROUND
Air
Two domestic airlines serve the country.
Rail
There are currently no operating train
services in Nicaragua. In the past there
was a rail system extending from
Chinandega in the north to Leon,
Managua and Grenada.
Bus
On many popular routes there are now
minibuses. They often depart when full,
providing a minimum of waiting time.
Boat
There are passenger boat services on
Lake Nicaragua connecting Grenada and
San Jorge with Ometepe Island and the
Solentiname Archipelago.
There are also occasional boat
services from San Carlos down the San
Juan River to El Castillo and San Juan del
Norte.
The “Bluefields Express” provides
twice-weekly service from Rama to
Bluefields continuing on to the Corn
Islands.
Taxi
RV
Rental Car and Car Insurance
Motorcycle Rental
Bicycle
Hiking
Hitchhiking
Tours
19
IMMIGRATION AND CUSTOMS
VISAS
CUSTOMS
Tourist Cards
$5, issued at the land border crossing
and airports.
Work Permits
Border Crossings
Permits and Licenses
Bribes
Embassies and Consulates
Police
Taxes
SPECIAL INTERESTS
Work Study tours
Gays and Lesbian
Tour Operations
Disabled
Travel with Children
Mature
Women
Churches, Clubs, Organizations
20
HEALTH AND SAFETY
Before You Go
Availability of Health Care
Vaccinations
Hepatitis A,B,C
Rabies
Malaria
General Health Maintenance
Common Health Problems and
Diseases
Malaria
Hepatitis
Cholera
Chagas Disease
SAFETY
Crime
Crimes against tourists occur at a lower
rate in Nicaragua than in Mexico or Costa
Rica. However, crime is on the increase
and every visitor must take common
sense precautions to minimize the
danger.
Drugs
Rabies
AIDS and Other STD’s
Giardia
Harassment
Sunstroke
Undertow
A problem along the Pacific Coast
beaches, and particularly dangerous
around Peneloya Beach near Leon.
Insurance
Be sure that your medical insurance will
cover you if you have an emergency
while overseas. Reputable companies can
offer short-term insurance that include
the cost of emergency evacuation.
Rodents
Prescriptions
Insects
Mosquitoes.
Black flies,
Chiggers,
Ticks
Birth Control
Wild Animals
Mountain lions
Snakes
Local Doctors
21
MONEY, MEASUREMENTS, AND COMMUNICATIONS
CURRENCY
The currency is the Cordoba, divided into
100 centavos. There are notes of 5, 10,
20, 50, and 100 cordobas. Physically
smaller notes are issued for 10, 25 and
50 centavos. Coins are minted in 1, 5,
10, and 25 centavos, and 1, 5 and 10
cordobas.
The symbol for the Cordoba is C$,
sometimes written as one character, i.e.
a dollar sign with a large C surrounding
it.
EXCHANGE
1$ = C$ 12.1 (Cordobas)
C$ 1 = $ 0.08
Moneychangers
Cambistas can be found in almost every
city or town, usually around the corners
of main plazas, bus stations, and other
public locations.
You will recognize them with their
large rolls of dollars and cordobas in their
hands. Many people use moneychangers
for the convenience, but banks are
obviously safer. Never change money on
the street after dark.
Banks
Banks are open five days a week,
typically from about 9 am to 4 pm. There
are always small armies of guards at
each bank, heavily armed. They may ask
to search your bags before unlocking the
door into the bank. Bank robbery is a big
problem throughout Nicaragua, and
newspapers often have the bloody
results highlighting the front page.
Sending Money
Western Union has offices in most of the
larger cities and towns
Traveler's Checks
Rates can vary widely for cashing
traveler’s checks. You may find a bank
with no service fee, while a nearby bank
charges 3% service fee and a poor
exchange rate.
Credit Cards and ATM’s
Credit cards are much more widely
accepted than in the recent past. Most
hotels, restaurants and airlines now
accept common cards, i.e. MasterCard,
Visa, American Express, and Diners.
ATM’s are found almost solely in
Managua, but are a great convenience
when available. Remember to double
check that you have a 4-digit PIN code
for your card, and test it before you
depart home.
Costs of Living
Taxes
Bargaining
Student or Senior Discounts
Tipping
22
WEIGHTS AND MEASURES
Electricity
110 VAC, standard North American two
prong plug.
Time Zone
Nicaragua observes the same time as
U.S. Central Standard Time zone (CST).
This is six hours behind GMT. Daylight
savings time is not observed.
Measurements
You may often see directions given using
an unusual measurement of distance
called the Vara. It is approximately equal
to 2.5 meters.
PUBLIC HOLIDAYS
January 1
Holy Thursday:
Good Friday:
May 1
July 19
August 1-10
September 14
September 15
November 2
December 8
December 25
New Year's Day
Variable (4-12-2001)
Variable (4-13-2001)
Labor Day
Sandinista Revolution
Santo Domingo
Battle of San Jacinto
Independence Day
Día de los Muertos
Immaculate Conception
Christmas Day
COMMUNICATIONS AND MEDIA
Postal Service
Correos
Private Services
FEDEX
UPS
DHL
Other package services
Telephone Service
The country code for Nicaragua is 505.
FAX
Email
Internet
Newspapers
Magazines
Nicaragua’s Best Guide, published
quarterly by the Nicaragua Institute of
Tourism. Distributed free to guests at
tourist hotels around the country. Good
articles about where to stay, go, and eat.
www.guideofnicaragua.com
Radio
Radio Pirata 99.9 FM
Television
23
MAPS AND INFORMATION
Maps
The best map of Nicaragua is the
1:750000 scale Map #634 from
International travel Maps, 345 west
Broadway, Vancouver B.C. Canada V5Y
1P8. Not easy to find, but available at
some travel bookstores and online
booksellers.
WHAT TO TAKE
Luggage
Clothing
Camping Gear
Tourist Information
Footwear
Libraries
Laundry facilities
Bookstores
Magazines
FILM AND PHOTOGRAPHY
Travel Clubs
Film Processing
Transportation
Hiking Maps
Photo Tips
Photo Etiquette
24
MANAGUA AND VICINITY
MANAGUA
INTRODUCTION
ACCOMMODATIONS
Budget
Jardin D”Italia
Las Colinas, Res. Las Colinas, Emb. De
Espana 3 c. al norte, tel. 276.0571
CLIMATE
Ticomo, km. 8-1/2 Carretera Sur, tel.
265.0210
HISTORY
SIGHTS
Old Cathedral
New Cathedral
Palace of Culture
National Theater Ruben Dario
Cultural Center
Central park / Temple of Music
National Assembly
Olof Palme Convention Center
Bank of America Building
National School of Fine Arts
Palace of Communications
Government House
ENTERTAINMENT AND EVENTS
Cesar, Km 8-1/2 Carretera Sur 300 m al
este, tel. 265.2728
El Hotelito, Rep. El Carmen, Costado
Norte del Parque, tel. 265.2753
Las Cabanitas, Reparto San Juan, Calle
La Esperanza, tel. 278.3231
Moderate
Hotel Colon, tel. 505-278-2490 fax 505267-0191, email: hcolon@ibw.com.ni,
$35 s or $39 d incl. Tax. Near Km 4-1/2
on the Masaya Highway, from the
Lacmiel sign 2 blocks up. Private baths,
a/c, cable TV, private parking.
Hotel Ejecutivo, tel. 222-3251 or 2223197, fax 222-2816, cell: 505-08831050.email:
hotel.ejecutivo@ibw.com.ni. Rooms with
private bath, a/c, cable TV from $35 to
$50, special monthly rates. From Plaza
Inter, 7-1/2 blocks down Calle 27 de
Mayo, or ½ block up from the Shell
station.
25
modern rooms with a/c, cable TV,
refrigerator, and modern tiled baths.
Hotel D’Lido, tel. 266-6437, 266-8965
fax 266-4560, Barrio Altagracia, from the
King’s Palace Hotel, tels. 277-4548, 277Centro Toyota, 2-1/2 blocks south. $30 s
4115, 278.6030 fax 2782456. $60 s or
plus tax, pool, a/c, cable TV, secure
$65 d, includes tax, Pool, a/c, cable TV,
parking. Excellent value with good-sized
private baths and secure parking. Km 5
rooms opening in to pool and courtyard.
on the Masaya Highway (Carretera a
Friendly staff.
Masaya), in the center of the Zona Rosa,
this is a good choice to be near the
Hotel Euro, telefax: 222-2292, cell: 088center of Managua’s nightlife.
27756, $35 s or $40 d, $30 with fan.
From Plaza Inter, 1 block down 27 of
Luxury
May Street.
Intercontinental, Avenida Bolivar, 505228-3530, fax 505-228-5208
Hotel Morgut, tels. 222-2166,2223340,222-3206 fax 222-3543, $35 s, hot
Camino Real, Km. 9-1/2 Carretera Norte,
water, a/c cable TV, laundry. email:
tel. 263-1381 fax 505-263-1380
morgut1@hotelmorgut.com,
webpage: www.hotelmorgut.com,
Hotel Mansion Teodolindo, tel. 505-228from Cine Cabrera, 3 blocks east, on
1050, 505-228-1060 fax 505-222-4908,
Calle 27 de Mayo
email: hotel@teodolinda.com.ni,
webpage: www.teodolinda.com.ni, Rep.
Hotel Fragata, tel 222-4179, fax 222Bolonia, Hosp. Militar 2 c. al norte, 2 c al
4133, with fan $$25 s, $30 d, or $35
triple. With a/c and cable TV, $30 s, $35
oeste
d, or $40 triple. Very pleasant hotel with
friendly managers, small secure parking
Las Mercedes, Km.11, Carretera Norte,
area in front.
tel. 263.1011
Expensive
Hotel Estrella, tel. 505-289-7010-13, fax
505-289-7104, email:
hstrella@ibw.com.ni, Pista Portuzuelo, de
las semaforos de Rubenia, 200 meters
north. Near the international airport, a/c
cable tv, pool, conference room, secure
parking.
El Conquistador, tel. 505-222-4789, fax
505-222-3657, $45 s or $55 d, plus 15%
tax, email: elconquistador@ideay.net.ni,
webpage:
www.geocities.com/hotelconquistador20
00. One block down from Plaza Inter,
just opened in mid-1999, it has 11
FOOD
SHOPPING
Two large malls at Plaza Inter and Metro
Center provide most anything you would
find in a large mall in USA or Europe, i.e.
Designer Shops, CD Stores, Food Courts
with McDonald’s and Pizza Hut etc.
INFORMATION
26
SERVICES
TOUR OPERATORS
CARELI TOURS
Transfers, tours, tour guides, hotel
reservations, conventions, charters,
cruises, car rental. Calle Principal Los
Robles, del Sandy’s 2c. Este, 1c. Sur tel:
(505) 278-2572 Fax: (505) 278-2574/
278-6903 E-mail: info@carelitours.com
CONTINENTAL TOURS
MOMOTOMBO TRAVEL & TOURS
Altamira Del Este # 455 tel (505) 2772062 Fax: (505) 278-9759
E-mail: enruiz@hotmail.com
NICARAGUA ADVENTURES
Day tours, packages from 3 to 14 days,
cultural& eco tours, city tours, deep sea
fishing, beach and surf. Transfers, hotels
and domestic flight booking. Staff speak
4 languages. Planes de Altamira, detrás
de Enitel, Casa 103, Managua Telefax:
(505) 267 0406 E-mail: nicaadv@ifxnw.com.ni
ECOTROPIC
ECO EXPEDITION TOURS Tours:
Agriculture, Adventure, Cultural, and
Ecological. Reparto Serrano, de Galería
Internacional, 1C arriba, Casa #1166
Telefax: (505) 278 1319
E-mail: turismo@cablenet.com.ni
GUTIÉRREZ TOURS
Edificio Policlínica Nicaragüense, Reparto
Bolonia tel (505) 266-2293 Fax: (505)
268-1945
E-mail: gutierrez@nicanet.com.ni
ICN TOURS
MILLENIUM
Altamira Del Este # 455, Ferreteria
SINSA 1c. Oeste, Telefax: (505) 2789759 Email: miltours@ideay.net.ni
MUNDITUR TOURS
Services ranging from airport shuttles to
jungle adventure expeditions, specialized
hunting and fishing expeditions. Km 4
1/2 Carretera a Masaya tel: (505) 2785716 Fax: (505) 278-5167
Email: munditur@ibw.com.ni
NICARAO LAKE RESORT
NICARAO LAKE TOURS
Special events for groups and
Companies, and complete packages for
individual travelers, including canopy
Tours. Bancentro Bolonia, 120 mts Este
tel: (505) 266-1694 Fax: (505) 2660704
E-mail: nlr@nicaraolake.com.ni
NICARAGUA TURÍSTICA
Plaza Bolonia, Rotonda, El Güegüense
100 mts Norte tel: (505) 266-5797 Fax:
(505) 266-5876
E-mail: nicsa@tmx.com.ni
NUEVA TURNICA
NTUR
Rotonda El Güegüense 3c. Norte, 3c.
Oeste, 1/2 c. Norte tel: (505) 268-6692
Fax: (505) 266-2081
E-mail: ntur@nicanet.com.ni
ORO TRAVEL
Convento San Francisco 1/2 c. Oeste,
Calle Coral, Granada tel: (505) 5524568 Fax: (505) 552-6512
E-mail: orotravl@tmx.com.ni
27
TRAVEL AGENTS
SERVITUR
Hotel Alhambra, Granada Tel: (505)
552-4390 Fax: (505) 552-2955
E-mail: servitur@tmx.com.ni
SOLENTINAME TOURS
Km. 8 Carretera Sur, 1c. Este, 3c. Sur
Telefax: (505) 265-2716 E-mail:
zerger@ibw.com.ni
SOL TOURS
Edificio Policlínica Nicaragüense Tel:
(505) 266-7164 Fax: (505) 266-1591
E-mail: soltours@tmx.com.ni
SCHUVAR TOURS Tours, Bilinguel guides.
Rotonda El Güegüense, 75 mts Sur,
Edificio Banco Mercantil, Módulo # 4 Tel:
(505) 266-3588 Fax: (505) 266-3586
E-mail: schuvar@ibw.com.ni
SOL, VELA, Y MAR
TOURS NICARAGUA volcano treks, jungle
river safaris, virgin beaches and islands.
archeological expeditions, historic
colonial cities and rustic artisan villages.
Avenida Bolívar, Hotel Inter-continental,
1c Sur Tel: (505) 228-7063 Fax: (505)
228-7064 E-mail: nicatour@nic.gbm.net
GUTIERREZ TOURS
TURICLUB
AEROMUNDO
APATLAN
CAPITAL EXPRESS,
Rotondo El Gueguense, 1 block east. Te.
266-5043 fax 266-3583 cell: 088-22947,
email: capital@ibw.com.ni
CARELI VIAJES
COLUMBIA
CRONOVIAJES
FRONTERAS DEL AIRE
GALAXIA
MTOM
MULTIVIAJES
V. CLAUDIO FONSECA
UBEGO
VIAJES AMERICA
VIAJES CONTINENTAL
VIAJES ESTELI
GETTING THERE
GETTING AROUND
ONE-WAY AIR FARES
FROM MANAGUA
BLUEFIELDS
CORN ISLAND
PUERTO CABEZAS
WASPAM
SIUNA
BONANZA
ROSITA
SAN CARLOS
NUEVA GUINEA
$ 44
$ 55
$ 52
$ 52
$ 44
$ 52
$ 52
$ 40
$ 36
28
This Map of Managua issued by the tourist office could be useful as a base map, although further research
from the government mapping office in Managua is likely to produce even better sources.
MONTELIMAR AND VICINITY
MONTELIMAR
MASACHAPA
POCHOMIL
29
MASAYA AND VICINITY
MASAYA
INTRODUCTION
CLIMATE
HISTORY
Hike into the Crater
SIGHTS
ACCOMMODATIONS
Budget
Hospedaje Rex
Hotel Regis, tel. 522-2300, $5 s or $10 d
Moderate
Montecarlo Hotel, tel. 522-2166, $27 s or
$37 d, cable tv and a/c,
email: dgardjperezb@hotmail.com
Hotel Cailagua
Cathedral on Main Plaza in Masaya
Handicraft Market
Lake overlook
FOOD
La Jarochita, good Mexican food in a fun
environment. Has veranda looking out on
street, and large area upstairs.
Moderate.
Coconut Sports Bar, from the Curacao
Building, ½ block north.
30
SHOPPING
Pali Comercial Masaya, West Side Central
Park, tel. 522-4535
Handicrafts Center in 1899 Building
INFORMATION
Tourist office on Main Square.
SERVICES
Close to the Hotel Regis is an excellent
Internet service, 50 meters south of the
Curacao shop.
GETTING THERE
Minibuses every few minutes from UCA
bus station in Managua, 30 minutes, $1.
GETTING AROUND
Taxi or Horse Cart
31
MASAYA VOLCANO NATIONAL
PARK
JINOTEPE AND PUEBLOS
BLANCOS
32
GRANADA AND VICINITY
GRANADA
INTRODUCTION
SIGHTS
The Parque Xaltiava is worth a visit.
CLIMATE
HISTORY
The house of American William Walker,
who proclaimed himself king of Central
America in 1851.The house in Grenada
where he lived is now painted red for the
blood spilled to drive him out of
Nicaragua.
This is the main square in Grenada with
Sandinista flags flying before the 2000
local elections.
William Walkers House, burned in
1852
The San Francisco Church and Convent is
one of the top sights. Huge carved stone
figures from Isla Zapatera are in the
museum courtyard. Entrance $2.
33
FOOD
Golden Dragon, good Chinese dishes for
$5 up.
Picnic at the lakefront tourist park.
Pizza Hot Spot, medium pizza for $7
ACCOMMODATIONS
Budget
Posada Don Alfredo
Moderate
Hotel Alhambra, tel. 505-552-4486, fax
505-552-2035, email:
hotelam@tmx.com.ni. Directly on the
east side of the central park, the
Alhambra is an excellent choice. Inside
rooms are $38 and balcony with hot
water $38 s $50 d, all with a/c and cable
TV.
Expensive
Hotel Colonial, tel. 505-552-7299 or
505-552-6029, Cell: 505-88-35621,
email: hotelcolonialgra@nicanet.com.ni
from the Central Park, 25 meters north
on Calle La Libertad. Beautiful new hotel
in restored building just open in late
2000. Pool with swim-up bar, beautifully
decorated rooms. $50 s or $65 d, double
suite $90, including 15% tax.
SHOPPING
Antiguedades de la Piedra Bocona
INFORMATION
Tourist Office on Main Square
SERVICES
Guide: Milton Sandino, 552-6317
(11/2000)
2 Internet services on the main square.
GETTING THERE
GETTING AROUND
La Casona de los Estrada, tel. 505-5527393 al 5. El Arsenal Street, in the
historical center. $75 s or $95 d, includes
breakfast.
34
LAS ISLETAS
ISLA ZAPATERA NATIONAL PARK
MOMBACHO VOLCANO NATURAL RESERVE
35
NORTHWEST NICARAGUA
LEON
Don Senor’s Pub and Disco
Alamo Bar
ACCOMMODATIONS
Budget
Hotel America, $10 s or $17 d
Hotel Avenida, tel. 311-2068, $5 s or
$10 d
INTRODUCTION
CLIMATE
HISTORY
Moderate
Hotel Colonial, tel. 311-2279, in the
center of the city. Picturesque old
mansion, some rooms with a/c and cable
TV, $ 33 s or $38 d. Not such good value
for the money, but has character.
Hotel Austria, tel. 0311-1206 Fax 03111368. From the Cathedral 1 block south
and ½ block west. Private baths with hot
water a/c, cable TV, secure parking. $32
s, $46 d, or $54 triple, credit cards OK.
Laundry and Internet service available,
very clean and well run by Peter and
Luisa. Recommended.
SIGHTS
36
FOOD
Inexpensive
Street stalls around the sides of the
cathedral and main plaza.
Moderate
Restaurante Taquezal
Rinconcito Flor de Sacuanjoche, tel. 3111121, this new restaurant is located
about 75 meters northwest of the
University (UNAN-Leon). Serving a
variety of fast dishes, vegetarian and
otherwise, it has a pleasant garden and
serves draft beer by the pitcher.
SHOPPING
Pali, supermarket located a few blocks
north of the main plaza.
INFORMATION
Tourist Information office is located
immediately on the north side of the
main plaza. Very helpful staff with
suggestions for the best hotels,
restaurants, city activities and nightlife.
SANDINISTA MURAL in LEON
SERVICES
GETTING THERE
Minibus Service from Managua,
Matagalpa, and Chinandega
GETTING AROUND
Bus to Peneloya Beach
Puerta del Sol bus station
37
INCOMPLETE GUIDE
to NICARAGUA
Day of the
Dead in Leon by Mark Halliday
November 2 each year, the cemetery is filled with family members attending to the graves of their
loved ones.
This man is looking for work to clean the weeds from a gravesite.
38
This is a partial scan of a 1:10000 map I purchased from the Leon
tourist office in November 2000.
It is copyright 1996 to the Department of Geography, University of
Salzburg, Austria.
If permission to reprint can be obtained, this would serve as an
excellent base map.
39
CHINANDEGA
FOOD
INTRODUCTION
SHOPPING
CLIMATE
INFORMATION
HISTORY
SERVICES
SIGHTS
GETTING THERE
GETTING AROUND
ACCOMMODATIONS
Budget
Pension Cortez
Moderate
Hotel Chinandega
Hotel California
Hotel Glomar
Casa Grande Hotel
Hotel Cosiguina
Hotel Los Volcanes
40
NORTH-CENTRAL NICARAGUA
MATAGALPA
INTRODUCTION
CLIMATE
ACCOMMODATIONS
HISTORY
SIGHTS
Cinema shows two features each night,
usually recent Hollywood hits in English
with Spanish subtitles.
Matagalpa Festival in late summer.
Budget
Moderate
Hotel Fuente Azul, tel.612-2733, private
baths and hot water, parking, cable TV,
$12 double shared bath, $18 double
private bath.
Expensive
Selva Negra Resort: Km.140 Carretera a
Matagalpa, Matagalpa, telefax (505)612-3883, Miami, tel (305)-883-1021 fax
(305)-863-1826, New York telefax
(212)-879-4161, Managua Tel (505)265-8342
FOOD
La Casona, tel xxx-xxxx, has nice openair garden in back, Mariachis play in the
evening. Jalapeno Beef for $5.
Comedor San Martin, simple gallo pinto
and huevos breakfast $1.50
Cafe Picoteo, tel. xxx-xxxx, draws a
crowd for coffee and draft beer.
41
SHOPPING
Pali Supermarket not far from the
Central Parque Morazon.
Road-Trip: Matagalpa to Puerto Cabezas /
Mosquito Coast
INFORMATION
SERVICES
GETTING THERE
GETTING AROUND
42
This is a scan of a blueprint from a mylar original in Matagalpa November 2000.
I found the man in the mayor’s office responsible for the city map. He and I
walked together to the xerox office to make a blueprint of the original.
This should be public domain material, and should be more than adequate as a
good basis for a Matagalpa city map.
43
JINOTEGA
INTRODUCTION
CLIMATE
HISTORY
SIGHTS
ACCOMMODATIONS
FOOD
SHOPPING
INFORMATION
SERVICES
GETTING THERE
GETTING AROUND
44
ESTELI
INTRODUCTION
Recent Plague of Vampire Bats in Esteli
CLIMATE
HISTORY
SIGHTS
ACCOMMODATIONS
FOOD
SHOPPING
INFORMATION
SERVICES
GETTING THERE
GETTING AROUND
45
OCOTAL
INTRODUCTION
CLIMATE
HISTORY
SIGHTS
ACCOMMODATIONS
FOOD
SHOPPING
INFORMATION
SERVICES
GETTING THERE
GETTING AROUND
46
LAKE NICARAGUA AND RIO SAN JUAN
OMETEPE ISLAND
INTRODUCTION
SIGHTS
Volcan Concepcion, Ometepe
CLIMATE
Altagracia, Ometepe
Church Interior
HISTORY
47
ACCOMMODATIONS
Moyogalpa
Budget
Moderate
Michelle Sydney wrote: The annual
Fiesta de San Diego, November 1218, is a weeklong commemoration of the
pilgrimage and death of Altagracia’s
patron saint. The community gathers to
dance the Baile de Zompopo. A
representation or statue of the saint is
carried around the island, a symbolic
reenactment of the saint’s pilgrimage.
The idol is returned to the Catholic
church of Altagracia on November 18th.
Altagracia
Budget
Moderate
Hotel Villa Paraiso, telefax: 505-4534675, cell: 505-088-50433, email:
vparaiso@ibw.com.ni
FOOD
SHOPPING
INFORMATION
SERVICES
Car Ferry from San Jorge to Moyogalpa
GETTING THERE
Black Sand beach near Moyogalpa
GETTING AROUND
48
SAN CARLOS
INTRODUCTION
CLIMATE
Shark Fishermen of the Atlantic Coast and
San Juan River
HISTORY
SIGHTS
GETTING AROUND
ACCOMMODATIONS
FOOD
“Mark Twain” boat visits Los
Guatuzos National Reserve
SHOPPING
INFORMATION
SERVICES
GETTING THERE
49
ARCHIPELAGO DE SOLENTINAME
INTRODUCTION
ACCOMMODATIONS
CLIMATE
FOOD
HISTORY
SHOPPING
SIGHTS
INFORMATION
SERVICES
GETTING THERE
GETTING AROUND
50
SAN JUAN DEL SUR AND RIVAS
SAN JUAN DEL SUR
INTRODUCTION
CLIMATE
HISTORY
This is the place where travelers from
the US east coast heading to California
gold fields joined the Vanderbilt
steamships north. An interesting print in
the lobby of the Hotel Casablanca shows
what San Juan del Sur looked like in the
days of the tall ships.
SIGHTS
ACCOMMODATIONS
Budget
Casa International Joxi, tel. 505-4582348,
Email: casajoxi@ns.tmx.com.ni,
website:
www.tmx.com.ni/turismo/casajoxi
$16 s, $27 d, or $33 triple.
Moderate
Hotel Casablanca, tel. 505-458-2135, fax
505-458-2307, email:
Casablanca@ibw.com.ni, website at
www.sanjuandelsur.org. $46 s or $50 d,
plus 15% tax. Swimming Pool, a/c, cable
TV, laundry, parking, free morning
coffee.
El Hotel Anamar, tel. 045-82-589 in San
Juan, Managua 505-278-2705, 505-2782708, 505-267-0017, fax 505-278-2707,
webpage: www.anamar.com.ni, Single
room for 2 people, $30 low season, $60
high season. Double room for 4 to 5
people, $50/100.
Fishing Charters
Hotel Villa Isabella, tel. 505-458-2568,
toll free in U.S. and Canada 1-888-5081778. email: villaisabella@aol.com,
webpage: www.sanjuandelsur.org.ni,
Diagonal Norte, near the Catholic church,
twin shared bath $45, Queen or double
with private bath $55, triple $65, rates
do not include tax. a/c, fans, breakfast
included. Most credit cards
51
SERVICES
Internet at Casa Joxi
FOOD
Marie’s Bar
SHOPPING
Some tourist shops, t-shirts, etc.
Only small shops, better shopping in
Rivas for non-tourist items.
INFORMATION
GETTING THERE
Bus from Rivas, 1 hour
Special a/c bus from Managua each
afternoon, departs Mercado Huembes
station at 4PM, arrives San Juan 630PM,
returns to Managua early the next
morning
GETTING AROUND
Majagual Beach resort runs a shuttle
from the beach into San Juan three times
a week, meet at the Casa Joxi.
This map could be used as a base for a San Juan del Sur map
52
AROUND SAN JUAN DEL SUR
MAJAGUAL BEACH RESORT
Beautiful and isolated beach area popular
with backpackers and surfers. Run by
friendly Aussie Paul McAuliffe, there is a
fine bar and restaurant area. Dormitory
rooms available for $3, private cabins
with fan and bathroom $9. Meals $3-5,
transport into San Juan del Sur 3 times
per week, $2.
PUNTA LA FLOR
Turtle watching area south of San Juan
del Sur.
www.sanjuandelsur.org/majagual
53
RIVAS and SAN JORGE
INTRODUCTION
ACCOMMODATIONS
Budget
CLIMATE
Moderate
Hotel Cacique Nicarao, tel. 453-3234 fax
453-3120
HISTORY
FOOD
Pizza Hot, 100 meters east of Del BANIC,
tel. 453-4662
SIGHTS
SHOPPING
INFORMATION
Church in Rivas
Disco behind the Hotel Nicarao
SERVICES
New Internet café on main street
GETTING THERE
GETTING AROUND
54
SOUTHERN ATLANTIC AUTONOMOUS
REGION (RAAS)
INTRODUCTION
CLIMATE
HISTORY
SIGHTS
May Day celebrations
Maypole Dance
INFORMATION
Areas in the Southern Atlantic
Autonomous Region (RAAS) are
increasingly saturated with cocaine.
Recent reports cite Sandy Bay, a
community 207 km. north of Bluefields,
as particularly hard hit. Moravian pastor
Eugene Simmons estimates that 60% of
Sandy Bay's young people are using
drugs. Many people spend their days
combing the beaches, hoping to find
packages of cocaine thrown overboard by
drug traffickers at sea who are being
pursued by the DEA. A kilogram of
cocaine is worth $1000 in the RAAS.
SERVICES
GETTING THERE
FOOD
GETTING AROUND
SHOPPING
55
BLUEFIELDS
INTRODUCTION
ACCOMMODATIONS
Budget
CLIMATE
HISTORY
SIGHTS
Moderate
Hotel Tia Irene (Bluefields Bay Hotel –
Casa de URACCAN), Barrio Pointeen,
telefax: 505-822-0120, fax 505-8222143, email: tiairene@ibw.com.ni
FOOD
El Flotante Restaurant
SHOPPING
INFORMATION
SERVICES
GETTING THERE
Palo de Mayo festival first three
weekends in May.
GETTING AROUND
56
PEARL ARCHIPELAGO
INTRODUCTION
FOOD
CLIMATE
SHOPPING
HISTORY
INFORMATION
SIGHTS
SERVICES
GETTING THERE
GETTING AROUND
ACCOMMODATIONS
57
CORN ISLANDS
INTRODUCTION
The Corn Islands share more history and
culture with the surrounding Caribbean
than the Spanish mainland.
Many of the people came from Jamaica
years ago, and the islands were under
British control until 100 years ago. They
remain remarkably isolated from the
outside world, but perhaps not for long.
Fishing, predominantly for lobster,
is the backbone of the island economy.
However, catches are now declining due
to over harvesting. There is no closed
season for taking lobster as in Belize and
Honduras to the north.
SIGHTS
Beaches, fishing communities, watching
the airport scene as flights come and go
each day.
School Parade, Brig Bay, Big Corn Island
CLIMATE
The Corn Islands are one of the wettest
parts of Nicaragua. The dry season from
December to May is the best time to
come for flat water and sunshine.
HISTORY
The U.S. Paid $3 million to buy the corn
islands in 19XX.
58
GETTING THERE
Air
Costena Airlines, at the airstrip on Big
Corn Island, accepts credit cards.
$ 34 to/from Bluefields
$ 55 to/from Managua
$ 55 to/from Puerto Cabezas
Corn Island To Bluefields:
7:40 am, 8:40 am. 11:20 am, 4:10 pm
(these flights all continue to Managua)
Water Taxi
Known as the “Elario” boat, captain
Elario provides twice-a-day service.
Transport between Little and Big Corn
Islands costs $5 each way. The trip can
be very rough in the open channel as the
boat travels very fast. Locals complain
openly about the trip being dangerous.
The boat overturned once in 2000,
throwing all passengers into the ocean
without lifejackets. Fortunately, another
boat passed by that night, and everyone
made it to shore.
Managua to Corn Island
6:30 am and 2:00 pm
Corn Island to Managua
8:10 am and 3:40 pm
Boat
The “Bluefields Express” makes two
round trips per week between Bluefields
and the Corn Islands.
Tuesday: departs Bluefields at 9
am, and returns from Big Corn
Wednesday morning at 10 am.
Saturday: departs Bluefields 9 am,
stopping at Big Corn, and continuing to
Little Corn where the boat stays
overnight. It departs the next morning
about 10 am, picking up passengers in
Big Corn before continuing top Bluefields.
GETTING AROUND
You can go anywhere you like by shared
taxi for 10 cordobas, i.e. less than a
dollar. Just flag down any passing vehicle
and tell them your destination. Taxis can
be anything from old Russian jeeps to
modern Korean minivans.
The boat stays on Little Corn each
night. It departs from Derek’s Place at
6:30 am, and the main village at 7:00
am, arriving at Big Corn in time for the
morning flight. The water taxi makes a
second round-trip in the afternoon,
departing from Derek’s at 1 pm and the
main village at 2 pm.
When coming from Big Corn to
Little Corn, the boat will first stop at the
main village; you want to get out here
unless you are going to Derek’s place on
the east side of the island.
59
BIG CORN ISLAND
SHOPPING
Forbes Commercial Center has a good
selection of goods for the traveler.
CABINS at HOTEL PARAISO, BIG CORN ISLAND
RECREATION
Walking around Big Corn Island is a 3-5
hour adventure. If you get tired, or
thirsty, you will probably wait less than
30 minute before a shared taxi passes
by.
At this time there are no diving
services available in the Corn Islands.
Some travelers have gone diving with
lobstermen, who have tanks and
compressors for fishing. Unfortunately,
the equipment consists basically of a
tank and an old belt, no gauges, weight
belt, or Buoyancy Compensator!
Snorkeling is excellent, but
generally limited to the leeward side. The
area known as Peachie Sallie on the
north side is one of the best. The Hotel
Paraiso can organize fishing and
snorkeling trips.
ACCOMMODATIONS
Budget
Casa Blanca, small rooms directly on the
water in Brig Bay, $10 s
Panorama Hotel, 4 rooms, small
restaurant
Moderate
Bayside Hotel, concrete blockhouse units
a/c, hot water, cable TV, $35 s or d. MC,
VI, AX
Hotel Paraiso, tel 505-285-5111 fax 2855125. $38 s or $ 42 d. Opened in 1996,
the Hotel Paraiso is probably the best
choice in this range. Run by FrenchCanadian partners Mark and Bruno, each
of 10 thatched cabins has fan, mosquito
nets, and a porch with hammock. Bar
and restaurant are excellent. Laundry
60
service available. Accepts only VISA
cards or cash.
You can rent snorkel gear, and the
hotel can organize fishing or snorkel
trips. A sunken Spanish galleon lies
nearby just offshore from the beach in
front of the hotel. Bicycles are no longer
available for rent due to the difficulty of
getting spare parts.
Discos
ArcoIris
Morgans (also called Ruppie’s Bar)
Caribbean House (also called Basta)
SERVICES
FOOD
Hotel Paraiso – excellent restaurant and
bar, meals $5-10.
The island power supply normally shuts
off between 6 am and 10 am.
The bank on Big Corn can change
travel checks and cash. Open 9 am to 3
pm Monday to Friday. Changing cash is
relatively easy at some of the small
shops along the main road between the
airport and Brig Bay.
International Telephone service is
available at Initel. Just look for the
microwave towers.
Bayside Hotel Bar and Restaurant, A
lovely setting with its renowned overthe-water dining area.
Restaurant de Seva, North side of the
island, a ¼ mile past the Bayside Hotel.
Perfect garlic lobster for $5.
Fisherman Cave, in the center of Brig
Bay near the Main Pier, a round building
with indoor and outdoor areas to watch
the fishing boats come and go. Lots of
fried food, one traveler got sick after
eating here.
61
LITTLE CORN ISLAND
INTRODUCTION
This is real paradise! There are so few
pristine islands in el caribe without roads
or motorized vehicles, but this is one.
On Little Corn, when you move, you
either get into a boat or walk the island
trails. Or maybe bicycle if you can get
one.
Hello, this is Derek Sharp and I live out on Little
Corn Island. It is the way it currently is, which is
what makes it so damn interesting and blessedly
isn't a "Cancun" yet, and hopefully will never be.
Increased tourism would probably be good for
the island, if done in a manner best designed for
the people rather than large resorts as some
plans in motion would suggest. If kept small,
more along the lines of family run hotels and
businesses, I can't see a terrible price to pay for
the local inhabitants and I think everyone would
benefit. The island has a way to go and a lot of
education to absorb, but it is on the way and
merely needs time and patience, hopefully the
rest of the world will give it.
In the meantime it learns and grows and gives
the exploratory traveler a taste of something a
little "different", something which can be found in
almost no other island in the Caribbean. If one
ever learned the adage "expect the unexpected"
one will escape the islands unscathed, happy and
hopefully with a wonderful tan and stories to tell.
Next time you go out, visit Little Corn Island for
everything that Corn Island didn't have. One
thinks that Corn Island COULD be paradise but
when they reach Little Island, they see that here
IS paradise! But then, let's keep this our little
secret, eh?
Derek Sharp at Derek's Place, Little Corn Island
RECREATION
Walking around is a great way to get
some exercise and orient oneself. The
hike to the lighthouse is recommended.
Snorkeling is excellent, especially during
the dry season. The reefs offshore from
Casa Iguana are some of the best
snorkeling sites in the Caribbean.
Just ten years ago tourists did not cross
from Big Corn to Little Corn, there were
absolutely no facilities, and tourists were
discouraged.
You can hike up to the American-built
lighthouse left over from the times when
the U.S. owned these islands.
Perhaps this message from one of the
residents gives a picture best of all:
Fishing can be excellent. Fishing trips at
Casa Iguana $35.
62
SHOPPING
The biggest store is the mercantile
directly in front of the boat landing. You
will pay up to twice the price you might
pay in Managua. The store has frozen
water bottles, and a selection of fruit,
and meat in freezers in the back.
ACCOMMODATIONS
Budget
Miss Bridget’s, near the boat landing and
set back about 50 yards from the
sidewalk. $9 s for small cement block
rooms without fan.
Derek’s Place, near the northeast tip of
Little Corn. Two rooms with bed, $5 per
person, or hammock space. Has a small
Wind and Solar-power electrical system.
Wind and Solar Power system at Derek's
Happy Hut has two bedrooms on the side
of this reggae-style bar to the right of
the boat landing.
Moderate
Casa Iguana, reserve through Larry
Knutson in US tel 717-677-0947
web: http://www.casaiguana.net/,
email: casaiguana@mindspring.com,
4 Deluxe Cabins, $35 s, $50 d, with
private sink/toilet inside and attached
freshwater shower. 2 economy cabins
$14 s without private bath.
Casa Iguana is definitely the place
to stay on Little Corn. Very friendly and
well run by Cathy and Grant Peeples, the
deluxe cabins have decks with
hammocks and view east over the
Caribbean. They serve Breakfast ($4.50),
and Dinner ($7.00), but generally not
lunch.
A boat can
take you fishing ($35) or on a snorkel
excursion. If you arrive by water-taxi,
get off at the main village and look for a
man with a wheelbarrow, he will show
you the way and transport your bags to
Casa Iguana. Casa Iguana also offers
transport to/from Big Corn for $70 per
trip, okay for 4 to 5 people.
Bunny’s; new construction right on the
main beach where 10 to 12 cabins will be
available to tourists sometime in 2001.
63
FOOD
SERVICES
Casa Iguana
Serves meals only for its guess, family
style dining, excellent food, usually fish
or lobster.
There are very few tourist services
available on Little Corn. No phone, and
ice supply has been intermittent.
Miss Bridget’s
Miss Rose’s Restaurant
Elsa’s Beach Bar, open Friday to Sunday.
Excellent lobster and other dishes, $5,
cold beer $1.25. Located on the east side
of the island, a 10-minute walk from
either the main village or Casa Iguana.
Casa Iguana has limited email service for
its guests.
Dollars are usually accepted at a
reasonable rate by the shops.
There is no island-wide electrical power
system, so bring a sturdy flashlight and
extra batteries.
American Built Lighthouse on Little
Corn Island
Beach Bars are Open on the Weekend
ENTERTAINMENT
64
NORTHERN ATLANTIC AUTONOMOUS
REGION (RAAN)
A British Protectorate from 1687 to 1894
this region was generally known as the
Miskito Kingdom.
The Miskito Kings took their
children to be baptized at St. John's
Cathedral in Belize City, and held their
coronations there in deference to the
British Crown.
PUERTO CABEZAS
INTRODUCTION
CLIMATE
ECONOMY
The government of Nicaragua has signed
a 25-year lease for the port facilities of
Puerto Cabezas, on Nicaragua’s North
Atlantic Coast, with an American-backed
company. Completion of all stages of the
ambitious investment plant would be a
major boost to this region, impoverished
even by Nicaraguan standards. The
investment has the potential to lower
transportation costs for imports and
exports to Nicaragua, and provide
opportunities for exporters of U.S. goods
and services.
DELASA, whose principal
stockholder is Olympus Venture Capital
of New York, obtained the lease in a
direct negotiation, after it was the sole
bidder in two open tenders.
DELASA has a three-stage plan to
upgrade the port, with each phase
dependent in some degree on the
success of the previous stage. The first
stage is to repair the existing dock and
transit warehouse, put lighting along the
pier, and improve navigation with buoys.
There will also be investment in some
cargo handling equipment, such as
cranes and front-loaders. The amount of
investment is not defined, but the
equipment costs are estimated at $18
million. The second stage would involve
the construction of a free trade zone and
an electrical plant. This stage is
dependent on the success of the first
stage and obtaining a free trade zone
license.
The third stage contemplates the
dredging the access canal, new concrete
piers to accommodate containers, bulk
and liquid cargo. This stage is contingent
on the completion of an all-weather road
to Puerto Cabezas (a project that is a
government priority, but whose funding
is still uncertain.)
ACCOMODATION
Budget
Mar Azul
Hotel Rivera
Hospedaje El Viajante
Moderate
Miss Judy’s
Hotel El Pelicano
Hospedaje Tagni
Hotel El Cortijo, Calle Comercio, telefax:
505 282-2340
Hotel Perez, Calle Central, tel 505 2822362
65
SANDY BAY
Located north of Puerto Cabezas about
halfway to the Rio Coco and Honduras
border. Very few travelers pass through
here, and reports of armed robberies are
common. This area has a very rough
reputation, due to the large amount of
drugs passing through here and the
concentration of weapons from the
Contra War.
July 21 1999 — More than 50
persons were missing after a
shipwreck off Nicaragua's
Caribbean coast, army spokesman
Captain Milton Sandoval has said.
The boat was sailing from Sandy
Bay to Prinzapolka in the Caribbean
with up to 65 persons on board.
Only six were rescued at sea,
Captain Sandoval said yesterday.
The authorities believed some 10
passengers may have swum to
shore, he added.
MISKITO KEYS
The Miskito Islands are isolated, remote
and inaccessible to most travelers. Home
of the Miskito Indians, Nicaragua's
largest indigenous group, who also live in
coastal villages all along the northern
coast of Nicaragua.
CABO A GRACIAS A DIOS
Columbus named Cabo A Gracias A Dios
on his 4th voyage in 1498. It is near the
point where the Rio Coco enters the
Atlantic (Caribbean).
MINAS, ROSITA AND SIUNA
Three interesting villages accessible by
direct flight from Managua, the local
economy revolves around metal mining
operations.
RIO COCO
WASPAM
The take-out point for those coming
down the Rio Coco and wishing to either
fly back to Managua or go by truck to
Puerto Cabezas.
SAN CARLOS
The community just below the section of
impassable rapids upstream. You can
cross into Honduras near this point.
RAITI
Approximately the last point navigable
on the Rio Coco below Wiwili before a
section of rapids downstream.
WIWILI
In the Department of Segovia, the Rio
Coco is navigable downstream from this
point to Raiti.
66
BOOKLIST
HISTORY
General History and Information
Marnham, Patrick, So Far From God,
An appraisal of Central America, its
Spanish legacy, its current problems and
its troubled relationship with the USA.
Squier, Ephraim G., Observations on the
Archeology and Ethnology of Nicaragua,
Labyrinthos 1990.
Colonial Era
McCullough, David, The Path Between
the Seas, the creation of the Panama
Canal, 1870-1914, 1977
Sandinista Era
Cabezas, Omar, Fire from the Mountain:
The Making of a Sandinista, a classic
account of the Sandinista guerrilla
experience.
LITERATURE AND TRAVELOGUES
Bell, C. Napier, Tangweera, Life and
Adventures among Gentle Savages,
originally published 1899, a University of
Texas Press 1989 reprint.
Cortazar, Julio, Nicaragua Sketches,
1989.
Ford, Peter, Around the Edge, 1991,
stories of travel in Mosquitia.
White, Stephen editor, Poets of
Nicaragua, a useful bilingual anthology.
RECREATION AND TRAVEL
O'Rourke, P.J. Holidays in Hell
Rodwell, Morgan, Meet Corn Island, 1996
White, randy Wayne, The Sharks of Lake
Nicaragua, true tales of adventure,
travel, and fishing, Lyons Press 1999
Christian, Shirley, Nicaragua: Revolution
in the Family, a historical narrative of the
1979 revolution.
O'Donnell, Penny, Death, Dreams and
Dancing in Nicaragua, an account of
public radio during the revolution.
Rushdie, Salman, The Jaguar Smiles: A
Nicaraguan Journey, a short travelogue
assessing the Nicaraguan revolution.
NATURAL HISTORY
Forest
Reef
Birds
67
SPANISH PHRASEBOOK
GLOSSARY
INDEX
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Mark Halliday was born in Oakland, California in 1952. He completed a B.S. in Physics in
1974 from Willamette University in Salem, Oregon. That summer he worked as a geological
assistant in the Brooks Range of Alaska. This was his first real taste of adventure, getting
introduced to helicopters, bears, guns, and Eskimos.
He went to London in 1975 enrolled in a one-year intensive acting program. This convinced
him to not pursue theater as a career. Returning to the scientific world, he entered graduate
school at the University of Utah. It took three years to finish an M.S. in Geophysics, but that
included a lot of powder skiing and working summers in Alaska.
His interests were to work outdoors and travel the world. After graduation, he declined oil
company job offers, and went trekking in the Himalayas. He worked in Australia for two
years, visiting almost every corner of that continent. Later contracts took him to Toronto,
the Philippines, and Japan. Between jobs he climbed 3 Asian volcanoes, transited China,
spent a month solo in Russia before individual visas were available, and joined a two-month
overland expedition from Cairo to Nairobi through the Sudan.
Mark moved to Austin, Texas in 1984. He continued to work overseas, especially in wild
places like Papua New Guinea. In 1989 he joined a small instrument manufacturing company
in Austin. The instruments are used to measure the gravity field of the earth from land,
boats, and airplanes. Mark soon visited Ethiopia, Uganda, and South Africa on overseas
training assignments. He was traveling to Europe and China every year, and would often
have a travel adventure when the contract work was done. One memorable trip put him on a
Chinese oceanographic vessel in the South China Sea. Another required flying over the Swiss
and Italian Alps in small airplanes testing new equipment. A technical conference in
Greenland allowed him to explore that continent.
In 1997 he had a special opportunity to join a scientific expedition making the first descent
of a 100-mile section of the Mekhong River in Yunnan Province, China. The expedition
encountered Grand Canyon size rapids, and Mark remembers well his swim of a lifetime
through the biggest of them.
Technology changed over time, and overseas work became less available in the geophysical
industry. Mark did not want to sit in front of a computer all day in a glass tower in Houston.
He has been traveling extensively, visiting South and Central America two to four times
every year.
A recent trip to Nicaragua showed Mark the great potential of that country as a tourist
destination. He also noted the lack of a decent guidebook for the independent traveler. So
he decided to follow the advice he has been getting from friends for 20 years:
“You should write a book!”.
68

nicaragua - Mark Halliday Home Page

Transcription

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