Havana - Cuba Explorer Tours

Transcription

oct
2015
My relationship with the Sea
The Sea in Cuban painting
The TEN BEST dives in Cuba
The sea
Havana Guide
Restaurants — Bars & Clubs — Accommodation
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Liudmila y Nelson -El viaje-
editorial
Playwright, Virgilio Piñera, considered the sea to be “the damned circumstance of water everywhere” while the great
poet José Lezama Lima asserted that it was “the violet sea bewitched by the gods.” Cuban culture is overflowing with
references to these waters; it speaks to us in all the different creative languages. This issue of What’s On La Habana
is dedicated to the sea, something which is omnipresent in this island nation, this recognizes Havana’s role as a port
city, it’s origin back in 1519.
There is a distinctive smell to the sea. It penetrates the skin and our memories. We are constantly aware of this effect.
I love sunsets on the Malecón, with the city at my back, refreshed by the breezes, contemplating the infinite blueness
of waters that belong to me and to which I belong.
In this issue we walk with Cuban fishermen who come in all varieties: those with rods, those with nylon lines and
others with their boats that allow them to leave the shore far behind them. The most famous fisherman of all in Cuba,
Ernest Hemmingway has left behind an indelible mark on the city.
In 2014 the first underwater art gallery in Cuba opened its doors at Punta Perdiz, Ciénaga de Zapata. Sándor González,
the Cuban artist who started this project, has managed to surround his idea with a group of guest artists who not
only create the pieces that end up under water, but they also paint canvases and perform work under the waters. Our
favorite is the work by Juan Carlos Balseiro. He submerges a royal palm tree, which stands with the surface waves as
the sky and the divers as birds. He also sinks a complete bohio (the typical peasant’s house with palm wood walls and
palm leaf thatched roof), into the depths.
Sticking with the sea we look underwater in a watersports section from the best place to dive to an exploration of
what Havana’s gorgeous beaches East of Havana may offer.
In terms of happening this month, don’t miss Brit week, 7 days of tremendo swing from October 4-11, 2015. Starting
with a rugby celebration (go Wales!), look out for a week of concerts and films, talks and happenings, all done with a
certain sense of style!
Abrazos!
The LaHabana.com Team
photo by Alex Mene
octuber 2015
The sea
The Sea in Cuban painting p7
My relationship with the Sea p9
The beach p12
The Sea and I p14
Havana: Signs of a Port Ciry p16
Fishermen: More than just an illusion p18
Hemingway haunts Havana p20
Art beneath the sea p24
On the Malecón p26
Havana Listings
Visual Arts p29 — Photography p31 — Music p35 —
Theatre p40 — For Kids p41
WATERSPORTS
The TEN BEST dives in Cuba p47
Cuba’s Underwater Treasures p51
Santa María del Mar: watersports central p55
Lemay Gutiérrez Álvarez: apnea diving in Cuba p57
Havana Guide
Features - Restaurants - Bars & Clubs - Live Music Hotels - Private Accommodation p59
The Sea in Cuban Painting
by Ricardo Alberto Pérez
Over the years Cubans have interpreted the sea
that surrounds us in many different ways. Our most
important playwright, Virgilio Piñera, considered
the sea to be “the damned circumstance of water
everywhere” while the great poet José Lezama
Lima asserted that it was “the violet sea bewitched
by the gods.” Cuban culture is overflowing with
references to these waters; it speaks to us in all
the different creative languages. The visual arts
in general and painting in particular have been
especially significant in this regard.
When I was a boy, my parents gave me a book on
painting entitled Pintores Cubanos. In those pages,
I was able to discover the splendid seascapes by
Leopoldo Romañach (1862-1951). Romañach, who
was born in a small town called Sierra Morena
in the center of Cuba, spent some time in Spain
and later studied painting in Italy. However, the
power of the sea was always close to his heart
and he considered it to be a vital part of himself.
Many years have gone by and I still feel nostalgic
whenever I see those scenes painted by Romañach.
They awakened my love of Cuban art and today I
feel very close to it on a spiritual level.
She manages to create a fertile ground where she
adores nature with the rationality of humans.
In an exhibition of Tomás Sánchez’s (Aguada de
Pasajeros, 1948) work in 2014, I was impressed by
his large format photographs depicting the sea
and rocks in which he establishes an enigmatic
dialogue. Some of the places he chose to portray
are well-known to those of us who love the
northern coast. Sánchez’s photographs present
us with an infinite possibility of thoughts without
the danger of being diverted by any obstacle. He
reveals uncontaminated spots where the salty sea
rules. El mantra de las olas and Drama are two of
his works that well represent this imagery.
Among the canvases that I remember, mainly
because of the impact of their colors are those
painted by Alicia Leal (Sancti Spiritus, 1957).
Alicia’s marine landscapes could be called “seas of
contents.” They are very much linked to religious
feelings and to the spiritual evolution of mankind.
cuba’s digital destination
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Three contemporary Cuban artists who have taken
the sea as their subject matter, injecting renewed
vitality into the context of visual art, are Antonio
Espinosa (Manzanillo, 1974), Alejandro Campins
(Manzanillo, 1981) and Niels Reyes (Santa Clara,
1977).
In some of his current work, Antonio Espinosa
has painted unusual seascapes in black and white.
By divesting the subject of color, he is able to
focus on the visual relationship between clouds
and the surface of the water. His clever use of
light heightens the spectators’ emotions, stirring
up memories that are not always related to the
sea. The way the artist understands the visceral
importance of the sea for Cubans makes it obvious
that he was born in a city by the sea.
Alejandro Campins was also born in the seaside
city of Manzanillo, but his sea is an essentially
private one that elicits mystery and reveals a rare
sense of beauty as represented by towns such
as Pilón, Manzanillo or Niquero. His minimalist
compositions are the true protagonists of his work,
taking us towards the appreciation of the smallest
of details as transcendental elements.
Niels Reyes’ marine landscapes almost always
focus on children who are meditating, playing or
fishing. His work is a personal reflection about the
daily occurrences which take place at an age when
many ideals, dreams and hopes are formed.
I would also like to mention a work that, even
though it is not a painting, has had a great impact
within the body of contemporary Cuban art: the
video installation Isla composed of photographs
by the duo Nelson and Liudmila. For me, the
evocative image of the José Martí Memorial
Monument surrounded by water (part of the series
called Revolución Absoluta), seems to sum up this
special relationship Cubans have with the sea in a
philosophical and historical context.
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My relationship
with the Sea
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8
When I was very young, my father instilled in me a
special fascination with the sea and its environment.
We would go to the beach often or he would take
me fishing on the north coast that extends to the
east of Havana. What I most remember about those
excursions is the transparency of the waters that
allowed me to catch a glimpse of the coral reef sea
bed.
I also remember the fish, still alive and swimming
on the threshold of death, as it were. Their multicolored scales and those eyes that seemed to be
pondering something between vengeance and
clemency. My father and I would arrive at night
and not leave till the next dawn, which is a part of
the mysterious world at the edge of the sea.
There is a distinctive smell to the sea. It penetrates
the skin and our memories. We who live on islands
are constantly aware of this effect and I think
because of it we become unique beings. It is as if
all roads lead us to those depths that unmistakably
speak of the unknown, leaving us with two options:
either to ignore it or to eventually succumb to its
mystic qualities.
As for me, I enjoy being a captive of the marine
domain. As soon as I was old enough I began to
explore the seabed that I had dreamed of for
so long. At a place called Puerto Escondido on
the north coast, whenever my friends and I
would go camping in the summers, I would take
the opportunity to escape from the boredom
of terrestrial bonds. I could contemplate the
magnitude of life from a whole different angle and
discover the beauty of an environment that is not
our own natural habitat.
It seemed to me that there was always a challenge
awaiting me under the surface of the water,
sometimes even one fraught with danger. This I
could feel whenever I saw some underwater cave or
a coral formation that surpassed my imagination,
or some fish that astounded me with its shape. I
was always left with the desire to return again and
again. And when one lives on an island that is noted
for a marine platform that is a veritable paradise
with its abundance of species of underwater flora
and fauna, this becomes a sensation that can be
constantly repeated.
A few years later, I was fortunate to spend some of
my high school years on the Isle of Youth just a few
kilometers to the south of the main island of Cuba.
I would spend most of my free time submerged
at the beach around the Colony Hotel and I think
it must have been the multitude of starfish that
floated close to shore that beckoned me on this
adventure. The place is one of the most spectacular
sites in our archipelago and is the reason why it has
been the scenario for a wide range of underwater
activities covering everything from photography
to all types of diving.
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As I renew my contact with that endless universe, I discover that the events that have taken place in my
life, when I have been near or in the sea, have a very special place in my memories. Three is no question
that being an islander carries much weight in my behaviors\ in many aspects of life, especially when
sharing thoughts with others. And like me, countless of Cubans consider the sea as a place of peace and
quiet, where your imagination can run riot—a place that is irreversibly connected to the way we are.
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The beach
photos by Alex Mene and Ana Lorena
by Margaret Atkins
I went out on the street and asked some Cubans
if they remembered the first time they ever saw
the sea. Almost everyone said they couldn’t
remember, which is very easy to explain: The sea
is out there, at their fingertips, as common as
the air they breathe, an inextricable part of their
lives. In Havana, it is the omnipresent Malecón
that embraces the city; in Matanzas it is the broad,
majestic bay; in Oriente it is the vertigo of the
mountains that tumble into the sea. The beach is a
formidable force under hurricane conditions and
in the summer it becomes our best friend. Popular
lore tells us that we should only go to the beach
during the months that don’t have an “R” in them,
despite the fact that because of our climate we can
go swimming all year round. We have powder-fine
sand or spiky rocks or pebbles on the seabed. In
the south, the shore is somewhat muddy and in the
north it is transparent. The sea is our border and
our highway; it is the rocking chair that soothes
the Island with its continuous ebb and flow.
we make expeditions to find the best sand. The
sounds of laughter, fun and children splashing on
the water’s edge are the sound track. Fishermen
get up at dawn and stand in the water up to their
knees until, to the amazement of tourists, they
pull out silver sardines for their lunch. There
are the “athletes” who swim far out to sea, way
beyond where we can touch the bottom. Showing
swimwear that only their young bodies can pull off,
large groups of teenagers get together for games
in the sand or in the water.
When the dog days of summer arrive, people
go to the beach to “cool off.” They might as well
say they are going to “heat up” because the sun
scorches, the sand underfoot is like live coals
and the water reaches temperatures that range
between lukewarm and positively hot. That’s when
beach umbrellas, beers, soft drinks, ices, rum and
coolers start to multiply. Summer and beach are
synonymous. We rent houses on the coast and
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There is always someone who brings a folding table and starts up a dominoes tournament that is
immediately surrounded by kibitzers and players waiting for their turn. Loving couples are always
sprinkled over the sand and in the shallows. We go to the beach “en famille”; even granny who was
telling us yesterday that she was far too old for this sort of nonsense gets swept along by the enthusiasm
and starts telling funny stories to the delight of everyone. Even tiny babies who have received their
pediatricians’ blessings to undergo their salt-water baptisms get to go to the beach. As a verse in one of
José Martí’s poems says, “everyone is at the beach.”
The sea continues to be the most democratic and popular source of entertainment for Cubans. Certainly
beaches have their charms during the summer months but there are also those who prefer to go in
“winter,” a season in this Caribbean island that never really attains all the connotations it has elsewhere.
In spite of the threat of jellyfish and huge waves, after the vacation season has ended, the beach remains
almost empty and silent, the water and the sand are cooler and the sun seems to be gentler on our skins.
For Cubans, a year without the sea is like a year that has been lost.
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The Sea
and I
by Victoria Alcalá
photos Y. del Monte
I still remember my amazement, or rather dismay,
when as a child I heard an old man in Pinar del
Río say that he had never seen the sea. I am from
Havana and the sea is a part of my everyday life.
My father was an expert swimmer who had taken
part in several university swimming tournaments,
even though he hated pools, and I would spend
my holidays on the beach. I could swim like a fish
and I couldn’t even imagine anyone who had never
enjoyed the placid waters or shuddered to see the
giant, angry waves coming in over Malecón’s wall
he.
Many years later, travelling on a train from Moscow
to Leningrad (today’s St. Petersburg), immersed in
a strange landscape of pines, fir trees and birches,
I felt something odd, an unexplainable void that
reminded me of the Cuban Romantic poet José
María Heredia, who in the midst of the awesome
spectacle of Niagara Falls, was suffering from the
longing for “the delicious palm trees.” And when
off in the distance I spied the grey hues of the
Baltic, a sea that was not my sea, yet it was the
sea, the ancient, northern, lovely capital of the
Czars suddenly became familiar to me without
ever having been there before. Could it be true
that the sea is nothing else than a ribbon that
communicates lands and peoples?
What mysterious bond do we who live by its shores
establish with the sea? Seeing it almost on a daily
basis, walking alongside it in times of joy or pain,
submerging ourselves in its always warm waters
in search of relief or pleasure, crossing it to reach
the picturesque towns of Regla and Casablanca,
fearing its devastating surges during hurricanes or
cold fronts….I don’t know whether all that doesn’t
grant us a sort of identity. I have been able to
check that this personal and intimate communion
is something people from Matanzas, Cienfuegos
and Manzanillo also have. And I have also been
delighted that during celebrations for Santiago
de Cuba’s 500th birthday, the city’s maritime
condition was being emphasized.
Nevertheless, allowing themselves to be influenced
by the thin silhouette of the island on the map or
by tourism slogans reducing us to “Sun and Beach,”
some people make the mistake of insisting on the
stereotype of “Cubans” as people defined by their
relationship with the sea. Many inhabitants of the
“hinterland” (and by hinterland we might be talking
about places just a few kilometers from the coast)
couldn’t care less about the sea; they bathe in
rivers or reservoirs, they don’t eat fish or shellfish
or even the delicious oysters that a lot of people
turn up their noses at. They trust in products
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coming from the soil and they get seasick by the
mere thought of going out on a boat; they pity a
fisherman’s life. Perhaps because of that reason,
the famous “ajiaco” (a thick soup or stew made
up of a variety of tubers and meats) by which the
ethnologist Don Fernando Ortiz characterized us,
totally excludes anything coming from the sea.
Pork has been crowed the King of Cuban cuisine
and our painters have turned out countless
country landscapes, very rarely venturing to the
depiction of seascapes.
They tell us that Nature is “wise”—a lot of the wealth
of Cuba comes from the waters surrounding it.
There are the beautiful beaches that attract
millions of visitors every year, the insular platform
abounding in species that are in great demand on
the markets, facilities for diving and other water
sports and possible oil deposits in the off-shore
waters, all of which appears to contradict that
oft-quoted line by Virgilio Piñera: “the damned
circumstance of water everywhere.” I prefer to
think that the sea does not isolate us; rather it
communicates us with each other. The sea brought
people to us, navigating from island to island, those
first inhabitants of the archipelago who came from
the far-off lands around the Orinoco River Basin
and from Florida. The first Europeans arrived and
a little later, the first Africans came as slaves. What
we are today, we owe to the sea.
That may be the reason why I love sunsets on the
Malecón, with the city at my back, refreshed by
the breezes, contemplating the infinite blueness
of waters that belong to me and to which I belong.
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Havana: Signs of a Port City
by Victoria Alcalá
Havana is a port city par excellence. It is
conditioned by, indeed dependent on, the comings
and goings of ships ever since its founding year
way back in 1519. Even though maritime motifs are
not that abundant in Havana architecture they are
much more frequent than a casual glance might
perceive.
Perhaps the first influence of the sea in the city’s
architecture comes from the fact that the first
buildings were close to the coast, in the interest
in taking advantage of sea breezes to assuage the
suffocating temperatures that surely had to have
tormented the European conquistadors. But the
visibility of marine elements is really a phenomenon
typical of the twentieth century when the craving
to attain modernity prompted architects and
master builders to abandon traditional volutes,
classical orders, cornucopia and floral details to
surrender themselves to elements that would
symbolize speed and progress, in short, anything
that suggested things novel and contemporary.
That was the beginning of seeing houses built
to look like steam boats, something that was
very much in keeping with the precepts of Art
Deco. Lines undulating like waves can be seen
on the lovely Solimar Building in Centro Habana.
Grillwork emulating ropes, decorations composed
of anchors, coral and fish, windows like oculi…
These are elements we can see in the Puerto de
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Sagua Restaurant, which specializes in seafood,
and also in the house on the corner of two streets
with highly evocative names, Marina and Vapor,
both of which are located also in Old Havana. The
balconies of an apartment building on the Malecón,
a prime exponent of the Modernist Movement,
have entered into legend because they appear to
be coffins, commissioned by the owner who also
owned a funeral parlor. But one almost forgets to
admire their mosaic decorations reflecting the
aquamarine and blue hues of the sea.
All of these examples are built close to the sea and
this might justify their symbolism. But there is a
small chapel in the Santos Suárez neighborhood,
to the south of Central Havana, which was built as
an ex-voto for a bricklayer whose life was spared
after falling from a scaffolding. It looks like a marine
apotheosis: thousands of seashells that had been
collected by the residents of the neighborhood
for months cover the main façade and the altar.
Of course, the chapel is dedicated to the patron of
Cuba, the Virgen de la Caridad del Cobre—Our lady
Of Charity of El Cobre—whose image miraculously
appeared in the sea!
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Photo by Y. del Monte
Fishermen:
More than just an illusion
Ever since I was a child, I have loved to contemplate
those mythical beings on the mysterious waters
of the coast. Those are my early memories of
fishermen.
Let’s talk first about Havana’s Malecón: the Sunday
outings with our parents, our amorous adventures,
chats with our friends. These have always been
accompanied in some way by the presence of one
or several fishermen. I’ve always been impressed
particularly by the rustic aspect of the fishermen
on La Punta, across the lighthouse, with all their
homemade contraptions that are meant to bolster
their luck.
I like to say that these individuals are engaged in
“domestic fishing”. Often we snap photos of these
spots and these anonymous people become part
of the picture. Many of these individuals fish as
a way to deal with solitude or to feel like heroes
when they struggle with fish tugging at the hook.
Cuban fishermen come in all varieties: those with
rods, those with nylon lines and others with their
boats that allow them to leave the shore far behind
them. Sometimes when we go to the beach, we
watch them at a distance, feeling a bit jealous that
we cannot reach their locations.
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The village of Cojímar, just outside the city, is definitely the most legendary of all the fishing spots—the
beauty and ancient traditions of fishing were celebrated by the American writer Ernest Hemingway who
used the town as the location for his famous novel “The Old Man and the Sea.”
Cuba’s south coast is also a real fishing paradise
with towns that have been engaged in this activity
for decades, turning fishing into an important
feature of the local economy. But what is most
alluring are the solitary fishermen, whether in
Batabanó or in the former Oriente Province where
places such as Pilón, Niquero and Manzanillo
provide the scenario for man and landscape to
fuse together into one perfect poetic statement.
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Hemingway
haunts
Havana
By Juliet Barclay
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Whether in his favourite bars, at his secluded
country house or among the fishermen and boat
builders of Cojímar, Hemingway’s presence in
Havana is still almost tangible.
In April 1932, Ernest Hemingway and his friend
Joe Russell sailed from Key West to Havana for
a two-day trip which ended up lasting for four
months. Amongst Cuba’s principal attractions
were excellent marlin fishing and the company of
beautiful women.
Hemingway had his fair share of wives and
girlfriends both before and during his Cuban
sojourn, but the great love of his life was the Gulf
Stream. He wrote, “This Gulf Stream you are
living with, knowing, learning about, and loving,
has moved, as it moves, since before man, and it
has gone by the shoreline of that long, beautiful,
unhappy island since before Columbus sighted…
That stream will flow, as it has flowed, after the
Indians, after the Spaniards, after the British, after
the Americans and after all the Cubans and all the
systems of governments, the richness, the poverty,
the martyrdom, the sacrifice and the venality and
the cruelty are all gone.”
Complementary to his love of the sea was his
obsession with marlin-fishing. Hemingway
invested the pursuit of these majestic fish with a
romantic, swashbuckling sense of adventure and
chased them from his boat Pilar day after day,
frequently sailing back and forth off the mouth of
Havana harbour where the coast juts out to meet
la Corriente, the Stream, and the marlin often
stop to feed. He even went as far as collaborating
with the Smithsonian Institute in the classification
of marlin species and in 1950 he instigated an
International Marlin Tournament. After the
Revolution, the contest was named after him,
which didn’t particularly please him; he called it
“a lousy posthumous tribute to a lousy living.” First
prize that year was won by Fidel Castro.
Hemingway ended up staying in Cuba for 22 years,
keeping Pilar at Cojímar, a small fishing village
east of Havana. La Terraza Restaurant there is still
one of the most evocative locations for those who
wish to experience the Havana Hemingway Effect.
Sitting in the rear dining room on a blowy winter
afternoon, eating lobster and drinking rum, whilst
an Atlantic gale rattles the shutters and whips the
ocean into a glittering sunlit froth, one half expects
‘Papa Hemingway’ to come rolling in to the bar
with his fishing friends. It was from Cojímar that
he sailed daily with Gregorio Fuentes, who looked
after his boat. The saltiest of Old Salts, Fuentes lived
to the age of 104, fascinating visitors to Cojímar
with tales of accompanying Hemingway on all his
adventures, from hunting German submarines in
Cuban coastal waters during the second World
War, to battling with giant fish, to holding court
with admirers in his favourite haunts.
Many people think that Fuentes was the inspiration
for Santiago, the tragic hero of The Old Man
and the Sea. This was not actually so. One day,
whilst they were at sea, Hemingway and Fuentes
encountered an old man in a small boat struggling
to catch a huge marlin. When they offered to help
him he waved them away, and later Hemingway
heard that the old man had died whilst playing his
vast fish. This was the trigger for Papa’s creation
of the book, for which he won the Nobel Prize for
Literature, and it was a measure of its author’s
affection for Cuba that he placed the prize in the
sanctuary of the Virgin of Caridad del Cobre, the
island’s patron saint.
It’s no wonder that Hemingway liked Cuba so much
and stayed here longer than in any other of the
various locations to which his peripatetic lifestyle
led him. Cuba liked him, too. His unrelentingly
macho attitude made him popular in Havana,
where machismo and loud mutual reinforcement
of maleness was, and to some extent still is, a way
of life. He was an aficionado of cockfighting and
the terrifyingly fast-paced and dangerous ball
game called Jai Alai, at that time very popular on
the island. Like many Cubans, he regularly fell in
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and out of love, having lots of wives and girlfriends,
both his own and other people’s. Almost as soon as
he arrived in Havana he began an affair with Jane
Mason, the tall, blue-eyed wife of the head of Pan
Am in Cuba. Jane was creative, clever, beautiful,
fascinating, a good shot and an accomplished
flirt. Often she left her luxurious mansion west
of Havana (now the residence of the Canadian
Ambassador) to go fishing with Hemingway, and
on one occasion her daredevilishness extended to
climbing through a window at the Ambos Mundos
Hotel to spend the night with him.
Hemingway took up residence at the Ambos Mundos
in room number 511; it was to be the nearest thing
he had to home for several years. With its view of
the beautiful Plaza de Armas and the surrounding
buildings, its proximity to the American Embassy
and the ease with which he could go down to the
harbour, the hotel was conveniently located for
Hemingway to write and it was here where he
began the final draft of For Whom the Bell Tolls.
It was also comfortingly close to his favourite bar,
the Floridita. It was there that he repaired in the
morning; to drink sugarless daiquiris–his record
was eleven of them before eleven o’clock in the
morning. The Floridita daiquiris aren’t drinks for
sissies; most of us would have serious difficulties
in articulating after three or four, but Papa must
have built up considerable daiquiri antibodies. He
drank “double frozen daiquiris, the great ones that
Constante made, that had no taste of alcohol and
felt, as you drank them, the way downhill glacier
skiing feels running through powder snow and,
after the sixth and eighth, felt like downhill glacier
skiing feels when you are running unroped.” Glacier
skiing and powder snow are seductive images
when you’re sweltering your way through the
soupy steam of a Cuban summer. The icy impact
of Floridita daiquiris (lime juice, maraschino, dry
rum, crushed ice) is wonderfully moreish; it’s only
when you try to get off your bar stool and walk
that you wonder whether you should have had the
last three.
In 1940, Hemingway married Martha Gellhorn and
they bought a large estate 15 miles outside the city.
Finca Vigía “Lookout Farm” was very run down but
Martha determinedly set about restoring it. The
marriage soon began to disintegrate, though, due
to Hemingway’s drinking, outbursts of temper and
bullying and Martha’s departure to cover the war
in Europe for Collier’s magazine.
The war provided Hemingway with an excellent
excuse for going to sea to search for something
more substantial than marlin. By 1942, German
U-boats were entering the Gulf of Mexico to
attack American shipping and encouraged by the
American ambassador in Havana, Spruille Braden,
Hemingway fitted the Pilar with machine guns
and ammunition for U-boat-hunting voyages.
Unfortunately no opportunity for heroic behaviour
presented itself and eventually Hemingway
followed his wife to Europe to write for Collier’s.
This trip sounded the death knell for the marriage
when he met another journalist, Mary Welsh,
whom he brought to Cuba in 1946. They lived at
Finca Vigía with crowds of cats and dogs, but
travelled frequently to the United States, Europe
and Africa in search of excitement.
Finca Vigía has been maintained since Hemingway’s
departure from Cuba exactly as he left it. Visitors
are not allowed into the house but may walk
around it, peering in through the open windows.
The place looks as though Papa has just gone
fishing for the day, with his books, papers and
personal possessions much in evidence. Nearby
in the woods the Pilar, his beautiful little boat,
has been carefully preserved. The collection of
original letters and manuscripts held at the house
is unique; recently the Cuban government agreed
to send copies of the papers to the John F Kennedy
Presidential Library in the interests of continuing
scholarly research into Hemingway’s life and work.
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After the triumph of the Revolution in 1959, most Americans in Cuba swiftly returned home but Ernest
Hemingway, who had closely observed the corruption and oppression of the Batista regime, wished
Fidel Castro “all luck” in his endeavours to bring social equality to the troubled island. He stayed in Cuba
until the summer of 1960. Those were to be his last days in a country he had always considered as “a
good place to live in.” Of his long stay in Havana, he wrote subtle evocations like this one:
“He got into the car and told the chauffeur
to go up O’Reilly to the Floridita. Before
the car circled the plaza in front of the
embassy building and the Ayuntamiento
and then turned into O’Reilly he saw
the size of the waves in the mouth of the
harbor and the heavy rise and fall of the
channel buoy. In the mouth of the harbor
the sea was very wild and confused and
clear green water was breaking over the
rock at the base of the Morro, the tops of
the seas blowing white in the sun. It looks
wonderful, he said to himself. It not only
looks wonderful, it is wonderful.”
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Art beneath the sea
by Margaret Atkins
If the love of the sea is a mark of being authentically
Cuban, then the artists who have decided to do
their work underwater must certainly be superCubans.
In 2014 the first underwater art gallery in Cuba
opened its doors at Punta Perdiz, Ciénaga de
Zapata. It exhibits 10 large clay vases donated by
their creators who are a part of the “Transeuntes”
project. These pieces, which are not for sale,
are made of a material that allows them to
remain underwater without harming the marine
ecosystem. The “gallery” is visited by many
tourists who come to one of the most well-known
and beautiful international diving centers in our
archipelago. In the year that has passed since
they were submerged, the vases have integrated
perfectly into the aquatic environment, becoming
the home for many small local species.
Sándor González, the Cuban artist who started
this project, has managed to surround his idea
with a group of guest artists who not only create
the pieces that end up under water, but they also
paint canvases which emerge from the water to
be exhibited in another room in the Gallery at
Punta Perdiz, this time on terra firma. If you ever
decide to dive in the waters of the Ciénaga, don’t
be surprised if you should bump into those strange
“divers” painting their canvases on submerged
easels.
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Juan Carlos Balseiro, originally from Matanzas and
now living in Havana, has been collaborating on
Sandor’s project right from the beginning. He goes
even further in his endeavors to combine the sea
with art. He submerges a royal palm tree which
stands with the surface waves as the sky and the
divers as birds. He also sinks a complete bohio
(the typical peasant’s house with palm wood walls
and palm leaf thatched roof) in order to create
charming video art filled with profoundly Cuban
references that inspire a multitude of sensations
and feelings in every amazed spectator. As if that
were not enough, almost at the end of the videos,
when you think that nothing more can astound
you, a peasant comes out of the little house hoe
in hand ready to go to work, as if the sandy sea
bed was his fertile field. The series called “Prefiero
hundirme en el mar” [I prefer to submerge in
the sea] includes canvases, photographs and
sculptures born out of the imagination of the artist
as a result of his experiences under water. This is
an on-going project—Balseiro intends to continue
making more videos during future dives.
And so, the depths of the sea have become a space
for artists to create new themes and use new
resources. Just one more example of how the sea
infiltrates every corner of life in Cuba.
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On the Malecón
byRicardo Alberto Pérez
It could be said that Havana breathes thanks to the
Malecón. Over the years, this promenade flanking
the sea has become the most legendary place
in the city. Whoever has lived in Cuba for some
time knows with certainty how things and many
customs have been quickly changing. But the
familiar Malecón has successfully stood up to all
the transformations and, especially, has kept the
privilege of being the protagonist in a good many
of them.
As we stand by the seawall, we are definitely close
to the Caribbean Sea, a symbol that unites the
fates of a large number of countries. Behind us,
it protects us and intoxicates us with the sound
of its waves against the rocks. In front of us is its
immensity that dissolves all our bad thoughts and
brings to us all our hopes and good omens.
People get together all along almost eight
kilometers, particularly at night and especially
when night is beginning to turn into day. Some go
there to continue or intensify a romance that was
begun elsewhere. Others choose to celebrate there,
together with their friends, some event associated
with spiritual growth or material prosperity. And
there are those who simply go there to finish off
a lovely evening, after the theater or a meal at a
restaurant. People living nearby like to go there
on sleepless nights caused by cares and worries
because they find it gives them comfort. At dawn,
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it is the perfect lookout point, highly appreciated
by amateur photographers.
The younger generation gives it special energy,
providing a carefree attitude and new visions of
life—groups gather, a guitarist appears and the
moment becomes festive. Often the songs are
renditions of what’s in at the time, but just as
often, you can hear a retro-repertoire that brings
back some of the classics of days gone by.
One of the transformations that Cuban society
has been experiencing is a changed perception
of sexuality and on the Malecón this becomes
patently visible. It is very common to see scenes
that require reflection and which are related to
the freedom each one of us has for expressing
our feelings without any sort of repression. It
reminds me of the words written by the Cuban
photographer Eduardo Hernández Santos in the
introduction to his photo series called El Muro:
“This is how very late at night, a section of the
Malecón wall becomes a nocturnal “jungle,” real
and marvelous, inserted into another greater
one and it becomes one of the favorite spots for
furtive meetings, courtships, reaffirmations and
confrontations of identities.”
Even though I have stresses the Malecón at night,
let me make it clear that during the day, the Malecón
lives just as intensely. People use its stretch from
the early hours, taking advantage of its width and
the clean air to indulge in all kinds of physical
exercise; kids and teenagers dare to go swimming
in the cavities in the reef; photographers, especially
from other countries, challenge the intensity of the
sun and capture wonderful images of the Castillo
del Morro and the singular relationship the city
has with the coastline.
The most frequented part of the Malecón, even
though it extends right to the Avenida del Puerto,
goes from La Punta Fortress to the 1830 Restaurant,
just before you entre the Quinta Avenida tunnel.
According to your interests, there is a segment
that belongs to you. Micro-worlds multiply and
manage to live together without any problem.
The Malecón is also the setting for many important
sporting and cultural events: regattas, international
sports competitions, car races, race marathons. In
terms of culture, for years this has been the site
of the Havana Carnival parades, and at the two
precious Havana Art Biennales, it has been the site
for the project called Detrás del muro (Behind the
Wall), which has been creating controversies and
providing outdoor gallery space for notable artists
to showcase their work.
One thing we are sure of, though: visiting Havana
and not taking a walk along the Malecón is like
never having been in Havana at all.
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From September 3 to 13, 2015, Havana is where it’s at. Under
the slogan “All art at the same time,” more than 1,000 artists—
musicians, singers, theater and dance companies, visual artists—
will be participating at the city’s theaters, plazas, nightclubs,
galleries, museums and all kinds of cultural institutions. With
special performances added to the usual cultural program
in Havana, Habanarte aims to give a true picture of what is
happening in Cuban culture today, from the traditional to the
most innovative and avant-garde.
More information and complete program at http://www.habanarte.com/
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Visual Arts
photos by Alex Mene
Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes. Edificio de Arte Cubano
Contaminación
Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes. Edificio de Arte Cubano
Through
November 22
Altavoz contra la pared, a
retrospective of the work of
Esterio Segura, including projects
from the 1990s to the present,
which show the ingenuity, humor
and irreverence used by the artist
to delve into pressing matters
of contemporaneity. The show
includes well known pieces from
his collection, performances and
interactive installations
Centro de Desarrollo de las Artes Visuales
Through
October 11
John Cage interpretado, Sound
installation by Maikel Rodríguez
Ricardo, 2013 Creation Scholarship
Estudio 21.
Scissors, by Aissa Santiso Camiade,
2013 Creation Scholarship Estudio
21.
October 30
February 14
El eco del último disparo, focuses
on the changes occurred in the
artistic
production
between
the 19th and 20th centuries
Curator Delia María López points
out classical composition, the
representation of historic events
and basic elements of academic
art.
Biblioteca Rubén Martínez Villena
Throughout The Left Sentence, show by Iván
October
Perera and Marlon Portales, which,
under the apparent innocence of
everyday life, hints at generational
concerns that are the object of
dialogue and controversy.
Casa del ALBA Cultural
Through
October 11
Los hijos de Matías Pérez, show
by artist Alejandro Lescay.
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photos by Ana Lorena
Factoria Habana
Factoría Habana
Opens
October 15
Signos. Arte e industria y viceversa, which has been conceived as an installation that
brings together objects, texts, artefacts, photos, ceramics, graphic works, video and printed
materials, aims at emphasizing creative experiences in which a balanced fusion between art,
design and industry, and elements of the urban and architectural environment takes place
through the works of Fernández (Tonel), Carlos José Alfonzo Espina, Gonzalo Córdoba, María
Victoria Caignet, Cirenaica Moreira, Diango Hernández, Ernesto Oroza, Felipe Dulzaides,
Gabinete Ordo Amoris, Humberto Solás y Héctor Veitía, Juan Carlos Alom, Mario García Joya,
Leandro Feal, Manuel Piña, Roberto Matta and R10.
Casa Museo José Lezama Lima
Through
November 8
Galería Habana
Personal Details, show by artist
David Rodríguez La Rosa.
Through
October 11
Centro Provincial de Artes Plásticas y Diseño
Throughout Universo desconocido, by Michel
October
Meulenert, whose figurative work
is only a pretext to create abstract
spaces.
Galería Servando
Through
October 9
Fábrica Partagás
Through
October 18
Cedar, brushstrokes and aromas,
show that exhibits humidors that
have been painted by well-known
Cuban artists and artisans.
Through
October 11
De mujeres, ciudades y flores,
art naive by artists Georgina
Henríquez, Mercy Rivadulla and
Consuelo de los Ángeles.
Presente continuo, group show of
paintings by Aluan Argüelles, Elvis
Céllez, Darwin Estacio, Alejandro
Gómez Cangas, Harol López, Ozy
Milian, Yuri Santana and David
Velázquez.
Hostal Los Frailes
Through
December 31
Hotel Armadores de Santander
Pintura fresca. Group show of
works by Yunier Hernández, Niels
Reyes, Agustín Hernández Carlos,
Frank Martínez, Roldán Lauzán,
Darwin Estacio, Antoine Mena and
Alex Hernández.
Post devoto, group show
contemporary religious art.
of
Lloyds’ Register Emeas
Throughout R con R, exhibition by artists R10
October
and Reynerio Tamayo.
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photography
Fototeca de Cuba
Through October 11
Candela, by Justine Ford (England), exhibits photographs of impressive landscapes of sugar cane fields in Cuba
which have been set on fire.
En concreto, works by Flor Mayoral, who has for years documented the virtually abandoned Miami Marine Stadium
and the José Martí Vocational Sports Center, which can be seen as metaphors of the history and relations between
these two cities.
Galería La Acacia
Cine Charles Chaplin
October 10
November 8
Mandala... el universo de las
estrellas, photo and digital art
exhibition by Humberto Mayol,
Javier Rodríguez, Laura Alejo and
Emilio Arias. Échame a mí la culpa, show by
artists María Cienfuegos, José M.
Fors, Ernesto Javier, Kadir López
and Lisette Solórzano.
Melen Club
Galería Carmen Montilla
Through
October 18
Through
October 22
Chivo que rompe tambó, group
show by artists from the town of
Guanabacoa, which acquaints the
viewers with this town that is so
culturally and historically rich.
Through
October 18
Imágenes,
photographs
and
paintings by Stanislaw Ignacy
Witkiewicz.
Sala de la Diversidad. Sociedad Patrimonio,
Comunidad y Medio Ambiente
Through
October 18
Las voces humanas, photos
by cuban photographers Julio
Larramendi,
Raúl
Cañibano,
Gabriel Guerra Bianchini a
española Ana Yturralde.
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MUSIC
Contemporary
Fusion
Los Ángeles
Photo Alex Mene
The contemporary fusion and electronic music
scene has expanded recently as new bars
and clubs have opened party promoters have
organized events in parks and public spaces.
Good live music venues include Bertolt Brecht
(Wed: Interactivo, Sunday: Déjá-vu) and El Sauce
(check out the Sunday afternoon Máquina de la
Melancolía) as well as the newly opened Fábrica
de Arte Cubano which has concerts most nights
Thursday through Sunday as well as impromptu
smaller performances inside.
In Havana’s burgeoning entertainment district
along First Avenue from the Karl Marx theatre to
the aquarium you are spoilt for choice with the
always popular Don Cangreco featuring good live
music (Kelvis Ochoas and David Torrens alternate
Fridays), Las Piedras (insanely busy from 3am) and
El Palio and Melem bar—both featuring different
singers and acts in smaller more intimate venues.
Chucho Valdés in Concert
October 1, 8:30pm
Sala Avellaneda. Teatro Nacional
Don’t miss Chucho Valdés leisurely performing
musical miracles at the piano and his Afro Cuban
Messengers
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Balneario Universitario El Coral
Fridays &
Saturdays
1pm-1am
Submarino Amarillo / 9 pm
Electronic music with rapping,
DJing,
Vjing,
Dj-producers,
breakdancing
and
graffiti
writing, among other urban art
expressions.
October 10
La Máquina de la Melancolía, with
Frank Delgado and Luis Alberto
García
5 pm David Blanco y su grupo
Saturdays
9 pm Vieja Escuela
Fresa y Chocolate
Electronic music
10 pm
Sundays
Aceituna sin Hueso
7 pm
Havana Hard Rock / 6 pm
11 pm Alain Pérez
Tercera y 8
Mondays
5pm Rock and roll with Luz Verde
Thursdays
Café Concert El Sauce / 5 pm
Sundays
Fridays
Baby Lores
11 pm
Every other
Friday
Soul Train, a show of soul music
Sat & Sun
Rock cover bands
Le Select
Barbaram Pepito’s Bar / 5 pm
Sundays
Thursdays
Los Francos
Sundays
Discoteca Onda Retro
Los Ángeles
5pm
Diablo Tun Tun
Centro Cultural Bertolt Brecht / 11 pm
Fridays
5 pm
Wednesdays Interactivo
Saturdays
10 pm
Tenor Bernardo Lichilín and DJ
Eddy Sánchez
Salón Rosado de La Tropical
Fridays
Electronic music with Sarao,
9 pm
Raúl Paz
Wednesdays Qva Libre
Thursdays
Jardines del teatro Mella / 5 pm
October 8
Rap group Conciencia
October 15
Dúo Jade
October 22
Rap group Conciencia
Café Teatro Bertolt Brecht
Café Cantante, Teatro Nacional / 5 pm
Tuesdays
Gens
11 pm
Gato Tuerto
Saturdays
Proyecto Lizzy
Elaín Morales
October 3
Alain Pérez
10pm
Cine Charles Chaplin
October 17
8pm
Concert unplugged
Morales and guests
by
Elaín
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Photo by Alex Mene
Photo Alex Mene
Salsa / Timba
Casa de la Música de Miramar
Casa de la Música Habana
Mondays
11 pm Sur Caribe
Mondays
5 pm Havana Show
Tuesdays
11 pm Pedrito Calvo
Tuesdays
11 pm Havana Show
Wednesdays
11 pm NAdalberto Álvarez
Wednesdays
11 pm NG La Banda
Thursdays
11 pm NG La Banda
Thursdays
5 pm Pupy y los que Son Son
Saturdays
5 pm Bamboleo
Saturdays
11 pm Azúcar Negra
Piano Bar Tun Tun
Thursdays
Jardines del 1830
11 pm NG La Banda
5 pm Manana Club
11 pm Juan Guillermo
10 pm
Wednesdays Alain Daniel
11 pm
Café Cantante, Teatro Nacional
Salón Rojo del Hotel Capri
Sundays
Azúcar Negra
Tercera y 8
Salón Rojo del Hotel Capri
Sundays
Fridays
11 pm Juan Guillermo
Mondays
11 pm Manana Club
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MUSIC
JAZZ
Jazz Café
Calle 88A No. 306 e/ 3ra y 3ra
A, Miramar. +53 (07) 209-2719
Shows: 10:30pm - 2am
Mellow, sophisticated and freezing due to extreme
air conditioning, the Jazz Café is not only an
excellent place to hear some of Cuba’s top jazz
musicians, but the open-plan design also provides
for a good bar atmosphere if you want to chat.
Less intimate than La Zorra y el Cuervo – located
opposite Melia Cohiba Hotel.
Café Jazz Miramar
Shows: 11 pm - 2am
This new jazz club has quickly established itself as
one of the very best places to hear some of Cuba’s
best musicians jamming. Forget about smoke filled
lounges, this is clean, bright—take the fags outside.
While it is difficult to get the exact schedule and in
any case expect a high level of improvisation when
it is good it is very good. A full house is something
of a mixed house since on occasion you will feel
like holding up your own silence please sign!
Nonetheless it gets the thumbs up from us.
Asociación Cubana de Derechos de Autor Musical
October 15
6 pm
Alexis Bosch (pianist) and Proyecto
Jazz Cubano.
5 pm
Peña La Esquina del Jazz hosted by
showman Bobby Carcassés.
Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes. Edificio de Arte
Cubano / 7 pm
October 1
Mondays
Real Project
11 pm
Wednesdays Zule Guerra (singer and composer)
UNEAC
October 8
Jazz Café
Thommy Lowry (trumpet player)
and guests
9:30pm
and Blues D’Havana
Jardines del teatro Mella
October 28
5pm
Zule Guerra (singer & composer)
and Blues D´Havana
Plaza del Santo Ángel
October 8
9pm
Concert by Zule Guerra, Albertico
Lescay and Kike Wolf
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MUSIC Bolero, folklore, son & trova
Asociación Yoruba de Cuba
Saturdays
Diablo Tun Tun
Los Ibellis (Folkloric group)
4 pm
Trova
5 pm
Café Cantante, Teatro Nacional
Saturdays
Thursdays
El Jelengue de Areíto 5
Waldo Mendoza
5pm
pm
Mondays
Son del Nene
Tuesdays
Conjunto Chappottín
Wednesdays Trova
Café Concert El Sauce / 9 pm
Tuesdays
Charly Salgado and guests
Thursdays
Conjunto Arsenio Rodríguez
October 10
David Álvarez y Juego de Manos
Fridays
Rumberos de Cuba
Saturdays
Explosión Sonera
Sundays
Rumba
Café Teatro Bertolt Brecht / 9 pm
October 31
Rafael Espín and guests
4 pm
Hotel Telégrafo
Fridays
Casa del Alba
October 2
9:30 pm
Eduardo Sosa
8 pm
October 9
Hurón Azul, UNEAC
Annie Garcés
Saturdays
Trovador Gerardo Alfonso
October 29
6 pm
Casa de la Cultura Comunitaria Mirta Aguirre
October 25
5 pm
Get-together with trovador Ireno
García.
Casa de la Música Habana
Sundays
Pabellón Cuba 4
Peña Tres Tazas with trovador
Silvio Alejandro
Saturdays
Peña Participo with trovador Juan
Carlos Pérez
Tuesdays
Los Zafiros in concert
5pm
Trova
Leo Vera
Centro Iberoamericano de la Décima
8 pm
October 3
Duo Ad Libitum
3 pm
Casa Memorial Salvador Allende
5 pm
Trova hosted by Richard Luis and
Eric Méndez
7pm
Casona de Línea
October 16
pm
Fridays
Saturdays
Sundays
Poetry in Motion: poetic “jam
session” that combines poetry
reading with performance art,
music and dance.
Fresa y Chocolate
Teatro América
8:30 pm
6 pm
Yoruba Andabo
5 pm
October 10-11
Bolero Night
9 pm
4 pm
October 16
Ivette Cepeda.
Get-together La Juntamenta, with
trovador Ángel Quintero.
October 25
5 pm
El Jardín de la Gorda with trovadors
from every generation.
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classical MUSIC
Basílica Menor de San Francisco de Asís
October 3
Concert by pianist Harold López-Nussa and percussionist Adrián López- Nussa.
6 pm
October 31
5 pm
A selection of of arias from the opera Dido y Eneas by soloist from the del Teatro Lírico
Nacional, the Vocal Leo Choir and the National Symphony Orchedstra
Biblioteca Nacional José Martí
Saturdays
Concerts by chamber soloists and ensembles.
4 pm
Sala Covarrubias. Teatro Nacional
Sundays
Concerts by the Nationl Symphony Orchestra.
11 am
Casa del ALBA Cultural
October 4
Concert by Ensamble de Vientos Nueva Camerata
5 pm
October 11
En Confluencia, conducted by guitarists Eduardo and Galy Martín.
5 pm
Casa Víctor Hugo
October 24
Concert by the Ébanos de La Habana wind quartet.
5 pm
October 26
Musical afternoons with guitarist Luis Manuel Molina and his Cáliz Duo
4 pm
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Iglesia de Paula
October 30
Performance by Coralia, concert choir of the University of Puerto Rico
5 pm
Sala Ignacio Cervantes / 6 pm
October 2
The Trío Amanecer, made up by Efraín Amador (lute), Doris Oropeza (piano) and Ariadna
Amador (tres, lute & piano), the Solistas de La Habana orchestra and guest musicians will play
works by Turina, Tchaikovsky and Efraín Amador.
October 18
Concert dedicated to the Dat of Cuban Culture, to the founding of the Amadeo Roldan
Conservatory on its 112th anniversary and Digna Guerra on her 70th birthday.
October 23
The Children’s Symphony Orchestra, made upo by students from the Paulita Concepción
music school, will play works by Josef Mysliveček and Mozart.
October 25
Performance by the Camerarpa project, led by Mirtha Batista.
October 30
The French clarinetist Florent Héau, along with pianist Roberte Mamou (Belgium), clarinetists
Maria Wong (China) and Lester Alexis Chio (Cuba), and a string quartet with Anolan González
(viola) and Alejandro Martínez (cello), will play works by Mozart, Hersant, Schumann,
Ponchielli, Mendelssohn and Weber.
Cine teatro Miramar
October
30-31
Performances by Ópera de la Calle, with the show 1959.
8:30 pm
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Theatre
Teatro Trianón
Photo Alex Mene
Decamerón
Teatro El Público / Production: Carlos Díaz
Fridays & Saturdays 8:30pm; Sundays 5pm
Teatro Trianón
Several stories from Giovanni Boccaccio’s The Decameron are put onstage with more than a hint at
Cuba today. Those who expect nudity galore from Carlos Díaz are in for a surprise.
Ni un sí ni un no
Compañía teatral Hubert de Blanck /
Production: Fabricio Hernández
Teatro Hubert de Blanck
Comedy by Abelardo Estorino, winner of the
National Literature and Theatre Prize in 1992 and
2002, respectively, a true master of character
study, efficient dialogue and of taking comedy into
the realm of love and death.
Mecánica
Argos Teatro / Production: Carlos Celdrán
Argos Teatro
Play written by award-winning Abel González
Melo, which based on Henrik Ibsen’s A Doll’s
House, turns the conflict around while it deals
with an aspect of that is scarcely dealt with on the
Cuban stage: the world of the nouveau riche.
Aladino
Anfiteatro de La Haban
August 25 & 26, 9pm
Aladino, musical based on Casey Nicholaw’s
Broadway hit, with music by Alan Menken
and lyrics by Howard Ashman, Tim Rice and
Chad Beguelin. The magical world of the One
Thousand and One Nights enacted with the usual
imagination, good taste and professionalism of
Alfonso Menéndez and his company.
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For kids
Con BB Compañía
October 18, 11am
Edificio de Arte Cubano. Museo Nacional de
Bellas Artes
Music and dance for the little ones of the family.
Matinée circense
Sundays, 11am
Carpa Trompoloco
Children’s circus companies hosted by clowns
Kariño and Kariña.
La calle de los fantasmas
Teatro El Arca
October 9-11, 16-18, 3pm
Teatro de Títeres El Arca
Ghost Street, emblematic play of Latin American
puppet theater, by Javier Villafañe, adapted and
directed by Miriam Sánchez.
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events in havana
XVI Festival de Teatro de
La Habana
October 20-31
Havana and sub-venues Pinar del Río, Villa
Clara, Cienfuegos and Sancti Spíritus
Founded in 1980, the Havana Theater Festival
which takes place every two years, will focus
this year on stage direction. The event will pay
tribute to British film, theater and opera director
Peter Brook, on his 90th birthday, and will
celebrate the 30th anniversary of Havana’s Teatro
Buendia Company.
Although the official program has not yet been
announced, 43 international groups from 23
countries have confirmed their attendance, Cuba
will present 16 prizewinning companies or which
have outstanding performances. The opening will
take place on October 22 at the Sala Covarrubias,
Teatro Nacional with the play Charenton, directed
by Flora Lauten with Teatro Buendía. There will
be a parallel program at the Carpa Trompoloco,
Complejo Cultural Raquel Revuelta, and the Villa
and Miramar Theaters with performances by
Ópera de la Calle and Teatro Escambray, among
others. Also, The musical Rent will be showing
at Fábrica de Arte Cubano. Street theater will
be present with Mirón Cubano, from Matanzas;
Morón Teatro and Teatro Andante, from Las
Tunas. Not to miss will be the closing ceremony
with the performance of Cinderella by the Monte
Carlo Ballet.
Encuentro Internacional
por el Diálogo
Interreligioso y la Paz
Mundial
October 16-18
Palacio de Convenciones
The main topic for discussion during the
International Encounter for Interreligious
Dialogue and World Peace will be world peace;
fighting terrorism and Jihadism; Ecumenical
Relations: trends and challenges; interreligious
dialogue and ecumenism; religious family and
civil society; today’s religious women, their goals
and challenges; cultural diversity and religious
plurality; identity, religion and civil society;
social/religious activism; community work
and religiosity; popular imaginary and religion;
religious institution, humanism and social
projection; and Church, State and civil society.
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events in havana
October 9
Multicine Infanta, Sala 3 / 5 pm
Semana Británica
October 4-11
Havana
British Week in Havana: Seven swinging days!
From October 4-11, 2015, we will be celebrating a
whole cultural week in the best British style. We
invite you to enjoy a varied program that includes
photography, film, music, dance, fashion, sports
and theater. Join us in this new cultural adventure!
October 4
Ciudad Deportiva / 10 am
Rugby match between Indios del Caribe and Habana
del Este teams
October 6
Museo Castillo de La Real Fuerza / 10 am
Opening of exhibition on the 800th anniversary of
the Magna Carta
Museo Castillo de La Real Fuerza / 10 am
Photo exhibition Candela, by British artist Justine
Foord, who establishes a metaphorical relationship
between the UK and Cuba
October 7
Shooting for Socrates / UK / 2014 / 92´ / Dir. James
Erskine. Set during the 1986 World Cup, when
Northern Ireland faced Brazil in the finals
October 8
Shooting for Socrates
Out of the Ashes / UK / 2011 / 86´ / Dir. Timothy
Albone, Lucy Martens, Leslie Knott. On the
successful Afghanistan cricket team and their
coach Taj Malik Aleem
Fábrica de Arte Cubano, Nave 3 / 8 pm
Documentaries on British music
Concert by guitarist Dominic Miller
Fábrica de Arte Cubano, Nave 3 / 12 am
Films about the UK
Class of ´92 / UK / 2013 / 99´/ Dir. Ben Turner, Gabe
Turner / Documentary on the rise to fame of six
young footballers who played for the Manchester
United: David Beckham, Nicky Butt, Ryan Giggs,
Paul Scholes, Gary and Phil Neville
Dark Horse / Reino Unido / 2015 / 85´ /
Documentary on the true story of a group of Welsh
friends of humble origin, who decide to train a
racehorse themselves
Teatro Trianón / 8 pm
Freddie, produced by Teatro El Público. Play by
Cuabn playwright Abilio Estévez
Fashion and music with the performances of La
Alianza, La Reina & La Real, Brebaje Man and DJ
Kike Wolf, and fashion designers Arassay Hilario,
Lisandra Ramos and Celia Ledón
4Dj Set: Kike Wolf
October 10
Next Goal Wins / UK / 2014 / 97´/ Dir. Mike Brett,
Steve Jaminson / Documentary on the Samoa
football team, known as the weakest in the world,
and their efforts to qualify for the 2014 World Cup
8 pm
Fast Girls / UK / 2012 / 91´ / Dir. Regan Hall. A
skilled street racer develops an intense rivalry with a
young, wealthy and equally ambitious athlete. Both
become professional sprinters and join the British
relay team for a world championship
8 pm
Freddie, Teatro El Público
Cultural documentary on the United Kingdom
Fábrica de Arte Cubano, Nave 4 / 9:30 pm
Danza-Hip Hop by students of the University of the
Arts
Concert by Eddy Escobar dedicated to British
music, with the performances of David Blanco,
Beatriz López and Vj Arturo de la Fe
Films on the UK
Fábrica de Arte Cubano, Nave 4 / 12:30 am
Dj Set, Xander Black
October 11
Class of ´92
8 pm
Dark Horse
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events in havana
Festival Mozart-Habana
2015
October 16-24
Havana’s Historic Center
symphony music, and will close the three-year long
implementation of the cultural project European
classical music in the social environment of Old
Havana, funded by the European Union and the
Mozarteum Foundation under the auspices of
the Office of the Historian of Havana, the Higher
Institute of Art in Cuba (ISA), the Mozarteum
University of Salzburg and the Heritage,
Community and Environment Civil Society.
October 16
Sala de la Diversidad
6:30pm Opening of the exhibition Mozart en La
Habana
Catedral de La Habana
8:30pm Mozart’s flute Concerto in G major, No.
1, KV 313, and Great Mass in C minor, K.
427. Performed by Niurka González (flute),
Bárbara Llanes (soprano), Claire Elizabeth
Craig (soprano), Roger Quintana (tenor),
Amhed Gómez (baritone), Orquesta
Sinfónica del Instituto Superior de Arte,
Exaudi Choir, Schola Cantorum Coralina,
Ensemble Vocal Luna and Coro de Cámara
del ISA.
October 17
Oratorio San Felipe
Neri
3 pm
Recital by Claire Elizabeth Craig (soprano) and Marita Rodríguez (piano).
Basílica Menor de
San Francisco de
Asís
6 pm
The Camerata Romeu and guest pianist Ulises Hernández in Mozart’s
Symphony in G major, No. 12, KV 110; Concerto No. 9 for piano, and
orchestra, Jeunehomme, in E-flat major, KV 271; and Serenata cubana by
Ignacio Cervantes
7 pm
The ISA Symphony Orchestra and Renaud Capuçón (violin), Gérard Caussé
(viola), Braulio Labañino (violin), Anolan González (viola) and Clemens
Hagen (cello), in Mozar’s Divertimento for string trio in E-flat major, KV
563, String Quarte No. 4 in G minor, KV 516, and Sinfonía concertante for
violin, viola and orchestra in E-flat major, KV 364.
10 am
Master classes by Renaud Capuçón (violin), Gérard Caussé (viola) and
Clemens Hagen (cello).
3 pm
Master classes by Renaud Capuçón (violin), Gérard Caussé (viola) and
Clemens Hagen (cello).
October 18
Oratorio San Felipe
Neri
October 19
Lyceum Mozartiano
Centro HispanoAmericano de
Cultura
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October 20
Mediateca del
Lyceum Mozartiano
3 pm
Screening of Davide penitente (Mozartwoche 2015). Bartabas, Academieé
Questre de Versailles, Les Musiciens du Louvre. Music Director: Marc
Minkowski.
Oratorio San Felipe
Neri
7 pm
Concert by Siegfried Mauser (piano), Florian Willeitner (violin), Fédor
Roudine (violin), Benedict Mitterbauer (viola) and Shizuka Mitsui (cello),
musicians from the Mozarteum University of Salzburg.
Lyceum Mozartiano
10 am
Master classes by Masters Florent Heau (clarinet) and Siegfried Mauser
(piano).
Mediateca del
Lyceum Mozartiano
3 pm
Screening of Concerts by the Mozarteum Salzburgo. Hagen Quartett,
Sabine Meyer, Robert Levinauf Mozarts Hammerklavier, Christian Tetzlaff,
Sir Roger Norrington, Gidon Kremer, Ton Koopman.
Teatro de la Orden
Tercera
3 pm
Peter and the Wolf, theatrical adaptation of Serguéi Prokofiev symphony
by La Colmenita Children’s Company
Oratorio San Felipe
Neri
7 pm
Piano recital by Fidel Leal, with guest pianists Paula Suárez and Mayté
Aboy, violinist Desiré Justo and cellist Alejandro Rodríguez, in Fantasía in
C minor, KV 475; Trío (Sonata) in G, KV 496, and Sonata for two pianos in D
major, KV 448, by Mozart; Four Impromptus, Op. 90, D. 899, by Schubert;
Adiós Nonino (for two pianos) and an arrangement for classical trio of
Libertango, by Astor Piazzolla.
Oratorio San Felipe
Neri
3 pm
Pianist Víctor Díaz will play Op. 10, No. 2, by Beethoven; Sonata in D major,
KV 576, by Mozart; March Fúnebre by Franz Liszt and Symphonic Studies
Op. 13 by Robert Schumann.
Mediateca del
Lyceum Mozartiano
7 pm
Bolero vs. Fandango. Music in Spain in late 18th centurty early 19th century.
Conjunto de Música Antigua Ars Longa.
Teatro de títeres El
Arca
11 am
Ópera Bastien and Bastienne, KV 50, by Mozart, adapted by Maikel
Rodríguez de la Cruz and Laura Liz Gil Echenique; performed by Rígel
González Herrera and Lázaro Emilio Hernández Boffil, the Orquesta del
Lyceum Mozartiano de La Habana and pianist Daniela Rosas.
Iglesia de Paula
3 pm
Concerto No. 1 for organ, in C major, H. XVIII 1, by Haydn; XII new preludes
for easy organs, by Johann Georg Albrechtsberger; Wind Quintet, Op. 56,
No. 2, by Franz Danzi; Serenade No. 11 for Winds in E-flat major, KV 375,
by Mozart, performen by the Ventus Habana Quintet, the organist Karen
Hernández and guests.
October 22
October 23
October 24
Teatro Martí
8:30pm Symphony No. 1 in E-flat major, KV 16; Concerto for Clarinet and Orchestra
A major, KV 622, and Symphony No. 41 in C major, Júpiter, KV 551, by Mozart,
performed by Florent Heau (clarinet) and the ISA Symphony Orchestra.
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Around Cuba
Fiesta de la Cubanía
October 17-20
City of Bayamo
Art and culture in a festival that contributes to
a reunion with the roots of the nation. The 2015
edition will be devoted to Improvised Verse bad
Rumba, both of which have been declared National
Cultural Heritage. Highlights of the event include
Akokán Aché, from Guantánamo; Rumbavila and
Parranda de Florencia, from Ciego de Ávila; Gagá de Barrancas and Pilón del Cauto, from Santiago
de Cuba; Los Richard y Guasimal, from Granma, and Raíces Soneras, from Las Tunas. Other activities
include craft fair, art exhibition, danzon and rumba afternoons, among other. The theoretical section of
the event, The Melting Pot of Cuban Nationality, will deal with the topic of Heritage Values of the Rumba
and Improvised Oral Poetry. The launching of the book Cuba Libre, by historian Ernesto Limia will also
take place during the event.
National Cuban Culture Day is celebrated on October 20, which is considered the day that marks the
birth of a rebellious nation and its identity, one of the most important events in Cuba’s history. The
Cuban National Anthem, La Bayamesa, was heard for the first time when rebel troops led by Carlos
Manuel de Céspedes freed the city of Bayamo in 1868.
The author of the ardent verses was the lawyer Pedro “Perucho” Figueredo, who had been asked the
year before to write “our own Marseillaise.” The next day he composed the melody of the future anthem
and a month later it was played in the principal church in Bayamo. However, the hymn would have to
wait 14 months for the lyrics, which Perucho wrote after the battle of October 20, 1868, right on the
saddle of his horse. Two years later, he was captured by the Spaniards and just before he was executed,
he shouted one of the the lines from his anthem: Morir por la Patria es vivir—“To die for the Motherland
is to live.”
From October 20, 1868 on, the Bayamo Anthem presided every ceremony and action of the Cuban
independence movement. Over time, it transcended as a symbol of the nation and faithful expression of
the character and identity of the Cuban people. This is why on August 22, 1980, the Council of Ministers
agreed to establish October 20 as Cuban Culture Day in acknowledgement of the day that the people
sang Cuba’s National Anthem, expressing the spirit of independence in its inflamed music and patriotic
poetry.
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TEN
BEST
dives in Cuba
by Eric Testi
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Maria la Gorda
photo by Alex Mene
1. Avalon
3. Yemayá
Jardines de la Reina has established a reputation
as one of the best dive and fishing spots in the
world. Isolation and environmental protection
have enabled the marine park to thrive evidenced
by the abundance of huge jewfish, barracuda, bull
ray and tortoise, not to mention reef sharks. The
Avalon dive is for shark-junkies and in 25 meters
with good visibility and very little underwater
current, it is common to see up to 20 reef sharks.
Not for the faint-hearted.
María la Gorda and Cabo de San Antonio
International Diving Centres together have the
most number and varied diving sites in Cuba.
At the far tip of Pinar del Rio, they are wild and
romantically located, with unforgettable sunsets
and a string of beautiful long white sandy beaches.
The Yemayá dive is very special. You begin with a
descent down the vertical Yemayá wall and return
via a “mysterious cave” having seen an abundance
of fish, giant gorgonian and black coral. (Ask for
the dive instructor Martin to take you out).
www.avalon.com / Jardines de la Reina, Doce Leguas area
The Tortuga floating hotel is the only (and best) place to stay
María la Gorda
2. Cueva Azul
4. Ojo del Mégano
The Isle of Youth offers the most dive sites in
Cuba (56) and is a natural paradise offering giant
coral, caverns, tunnels, huge mogotes, impressive
walls as well as a great fish selection. The Cueva
Azul (Blue Cave) is a great cave dive which you
enter through a tunnel that has three exits (you
will exit at 35 or 42 metres). Extensive sponges,
coral and shoals of small silver glassfish greet you;
before exiting the wall, you will find the “big blue”
stretching a whopping 1,500 metres down. Be
warned that the Colony Hotel is a dive hotel and
not a luxury resort.
Ojo del Mégano is a “blue hole” (former cave whose
roof broke and sank). Just 10 metres below sea
level, Ojo del Megano acts as a natural refuge for
fish of all types including snapper, barracuda, red
grouper, plus predators. The walls are crammed
with lobster and other coral fish. The hole is 45
meters in circumference and more than 70 metres
in depth and offers an easy and enjoyable cruise.
Varadero
Located 6 miles from the coast, the expedition
is organized by Varadero’s Club Barracuda
Isla de la Juventud
45 minute-drive from The Colony Hotel
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Cayo Largo
photo by Alex Mene
5. Banco de Jagua
7. Tiburones Toro
The “Banco” can be described as a mountain that
rises from the abyss. A tricky dive for experienced
divers, you go down to between 18 to 40 metres
where a wide variety of coral, sponge and marine
life, including barracuda, hogfish, grouper, red
snapper, parrotfish, stingray, tortoise, cat shark,
reef shark, hammerhead shark—and if you are
lucky—whale sharks await you.
Another shark-junky dive. Visibility is average,
so pick a good day to watch impressive whale
sharks being fed lunch. This is done at 28 meters
during the turning of the tide and is handled by
experienced dive-masters. Make sure you are up
current from the sharks and don’t wear red! (I am
mostly joking.)
Cienfuegos / 50 miles from the coast
Organized by the Faro Luna Club on calm days
Playa Santa Lucía
Camagüey
Centro Sharks’ Friends
6. El Colón
8. El Acuario
“El Colón,”is the best preserved site holding
shipwrecks from colonial days. Just 6 metres away
from the shore, you dive straight to the ship’s stern,
and on your way to the bow, 32 metres away, other
parts of the wreck are visible. The seabed is full of
bullets, cartridge cases and other metal gadgets.
The stones, which are moved by the underwater
current, make a special sound that gives a magical,
almost mystical feeling to the place.
Cayo Largo is tiny and gorgeous with the whitest
and finest sand in all Cuba and an abundance of
seagulls, pelicans, turtles and iguanas. Under the
ocean, there are 30 diving sites of which I would
choose El Acuario where 15 metres below the
surface you will see multicoloured coral fish, sting
rays, bull rays, turtles and cat sharks among the
coral.
Cayo Largo
Santiago de Cuba
100 km from the city of Santiago in a pretty site called La
Mula, where the Turquino River flows into the Caribbean Sea
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Jardines de la Reina
photo by Alex Mene
9. El Ébano
10. Boca de Caldera
The stretch from Playa Larga to Playa Girón holds
24 diving sites, which are all accessible from the
shore. The beautiful turquoise waters are ideal for
snorkelling and diving. At El Ébano, the waters are
clear and clean with great visibility. Going towards
the edge, you dive down into a beautiful canyon
which goes down to 23 metres before the wall
begins. Fish can be scarce, but the wall and big
blue are awesome and on your way back, under
the crag, there are a number of small caves.
“Boca de Caldera” is Havana’s best dive spot and
is accessible from the rocky shore from where
you swim out 200 meters East before dropping
down into a small cave at 5 meters, which takes
you to the first wall at 12 metres. The good
visibility and the absence of sea currents allow
you to appreciate the impressive garden of corals,
sponges and gorgonians, as well as a numerous
young population of coral fish.
Habana del Este
Playa Girón / Bahía de Cochinos
Varadero
photo by Alex Mene
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Cuba’s Underwater Treasures
by Diana Williams
Shipwrecks
In Cuba I have visited many wrecks—some very old,
others much newer, and all have a story to tell. The
attraction of Varadero’s waters has been increased
fourfold by these wrecks. Barco Patrullero, built in
1945, was a Russian patrol ship used by Cuban navy
in the 1980’s. In the late 1990’s, it took on another
role as an artificial reef. It’s fascinating to visit.
It still has its guns, surface-to-air missiles and
smoke dispensers. Finning over the deck it is easy
to let your imagination r un riot, and transport
yourself back into the Cold War era. Close to Barco
Patrullero is another sunken wreck—the Coral
Negro, which served for a time as a restaurant and
bar—and a small Russian AN 24 plane.
Further out, you can find the Neptuno, an older
much more broken up wreck sunk in 1943, which
has become home to some large moray eels, some
of whom are friendlier than others. It is also a
delight to watch the attractive groups of grunts and
snappers milling in and around the small spaces
between the wreckage. Not far from Neptuno,
the section of a sunken tanker, dominating and
imposing with its bright blue backdrop and
colonies of marine life, enthralls the diver.
The Cristóbal Colón wreck is a thrilling experience,
especially when you take into account the historic
events leading to its demise. In 1898, this armored
cruiser was the subject of an 80-kilometer chase
by U.S. warships—one of the offensives towards
taking control of Cuba from the Spanish. Sunk close
to the shore, some 45 kilometers west of the town
of Chivrico (Santiago de Cuba), the Colón once
again brims with life—though instead of people,
hydroids, worms and colorful sponges have made
it a more permanent home. Large glittering tarpon
also offer the ship their protection as they weave
their way stoically around the ship, alongside their
more colorful helpers including different types of
snapper, jacks and damselfish.
Cuba has many other historic wrecks and remnants.
The Mortera, a Spanish merchant ship that sunk
near Santa Lucia in 1896, is now frequently visited
by bull sharks, and coral encrusted cannons and
anchors may often be seen around its shores. cuba’s digital destination
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Underwater Formations
Underseas Forests
One of the dive sites named Farallón in Los Jardines
de la Reina (a one-hundred mile long archipelago
off the south coast of Cuba) has five coral pinnacles,
the tallest being around 20 meters. The pinnacles
themselves yield an incredible range of life. Trailing
whip corals, and colorful rope sponges extend
into, and overhang the gaps between the small
mounts. These exist alongside fan-like gorgonians
and delicate looking flower corals. It is fun to wind
your way around them. Who knows whom you may
meet? Rotund and ugly mouthed jewfish favors the
gaps between the mounts, as do tarpon and even
silky sharks, and the sandy floor below provides a
resting place for the occasional eagle ray.
Around Cayo Coco, off the north coast, dense
and lush mini forests of sea rods, fans and fingers
wave gently along with the current. It’s a colourful,
calm, yet lively scene. The cover offered by the
coral offers a good hiding place for different types
of groupers, including those of the tiger, nassau,
black and red hind species. They’re easy to find, as
thanks to the elegant waving of the sea fans, their
hiding place does not last for long.
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Walls
Caves
The island’s sea walls themselves can be striking.
Extending outwards, the large and colourful
rope, pipe and elephant ear sponges make a bold
contrast with the surrounding blue depths. Some
of the sponges are embellished with jewels. Small,
golden and flowerlike zoanthids cover thin rope
sponges in winding chains. Delicate pink, purple
and blue vase sponges add more texture and
brightness to the walls, alongside the encrusting
sponges, gorgonians and hard corals. Obtaining a
glimpse of some prized black coral interests many
divers, and there is generally a good chance of
finding some along your route, alhough given that
its polyps can be a grey or muted brown in colour,
its fine branches may not be as impressionable as
the sponges. Wall diving has the potential for an
odd surprise: if you look outwards you might spot
some passers-by, which, from August to December
could even be a whale shark. When it comes to caves, there is much to choose
from in Cuba’s subaquatic world. El Brinco cave
along Playa Giron looks like a small dark pool,
filled with a mix of salt and fresh water, and at first
glace offers little enticement to the diver. Timing
is crucial, undertaking a descent to around 38
metres, then ascending via a tunnel for around 4
metres or so, you need to re-enter the main pool
at around mid-day. This is when the sun is high
enough to filter through a hole in the top of the
cave, directly onto the water below. On impact, the
sun extends a wide golden-white ray through the
dark greenish water. As you place yourself in its
midst, the light consumes and energises. Touched
by the sun’s tentacles, you can only leave the cave
feeling incredibly high. Also accessed via land are the Saturno caves, near
Varadero. Stalactites and stalagmites await you
in this caves system, and blind fish and shrimp
inhabit its cool waters. cuba’s digital destination
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Another interesting, yet quite different cave is El
Salon de Maria, accessed from Maria la Gorda in
western Cuba. This has a more colourful and cosy
environment. Located at a depth of around twenty
metres, the cave’s walls and ceiling are decorated
with a plethora of pink, blue, green and purple
sponges and corals. Small internal pillars, also
made of coral, interspersed with fragile looking
feather stars, break up the space to create a more
homely feel. Whip corals trailing from the ceiling
add atmosphere to this fairy-tale place. It is not
surprising that a few groupers, as well as basslets
and grunts have made this their home.
Cuba’s Underwater Sandy Plains and
Channels
Cuba’s underwater sandy plains and channels, akin
to the country’s beaches, also hold a fascination.
All around the island, a phenomenal range of
species can be found hiding in, or just resting on
the sand. Peacock flounders—spotted by their blue
markings lay semi-covered, as do rays of all kinds,
including southern stingrays, yellow stingrays
and eagle rays. Trunkfishes and jacks often hover
above them, waiting for any tasty morsels the
feeding rays might dislodge. If you wait a while you
might see a ray move its position. This is when you
will experience the true beauty of these creatures,
their fins moving gracefully, and in harmony
with the water around them. Long, lumpy and
mottled sea cucumbers spend their time on the
sand, and it is fun to watch the busy translucent
gobies burrowing in and out of the grains. Dig a
little, and you may even find conches, crabs and
urchins. Nurse sharks also see the sand as a good
place to while away the time—particularly where
there are overhanging ledges to provide extra
protection; and if you are lucky, a turtle might
pass over the bright white expanse. Sandy areas
are also a good place to look for remnants of the
past, since they can shield ballast stones—a key
towards finding more interesting spoils from the
ships that patrolled Cuba’s waters in the 17th and
18th centuries.
Cuba is an island of historic and natural wonders—
both on land and underwater. Plunge in!
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photos by Y. del Monte
Santa María del Mar: watersports central
As we drive along the Via Blanca Highway, 19
kilometers to the east of Havana, we are beckoned
by a splendid strip of coastline—the beach known
as Santa María del Mar. Especially during these
sweltering summer heat waves, this panorama
impacts all our senses and invites us to connect
with the ocean spread out before us.
I have taken this trip at different points in my life,
dashing downhill to plant my feet in the sand. I have
always felt the same sensations when faced with
this vista of aquamarine tones, spattered with the
white crests of waves that dissolve into foam on the
beach. Among the coconut palms you can see the
sunbathers, persistent in their efforts to achieve a
golden tan. Some of them have refreshing drinks
in hand and many others are engaged in a variety
of water activities and sports. Lately, swimming
and throwing or kicking a ball around seems to be
taking a back seat to everything else that is making
its appearance: kite-surfing and wind-surfing are
definitely heading the list these days. Not only are
people taking part in these sports, they are also
providing an entertaining show for everyone else.
Now there is more to look at than the landscape.
These sports provide us with a challenge,
combining the dexterity of both body and mind
and if you can’t manage that, you will forever be a
spectator taking a dip from time to time and letting
your imagination run free in a sort of fantasy
film. But there are other diversions to tempt you.
The appearance of the banana boat, an inflatable
yellow tube that resembles the tropical fruit in
gigantic format, lets a number of people get on
and be pulled along by a motorized water skidoo.
Between the speed, the action of the waves and
the skidoo pilot’s maneuvers, it’s a matter of time
when all those passengers end up in the water.
photo by Alex Mene
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Catamarans also navigate the waters on short trips,
taking you off to the horizon under the geometric
patterns of the sails. This seductive pleasure craft
has the advantage of being noiseless and you feel
like you are one with the wind and the spray, a
permanent part of the scenery.
When the sun is about to set in the evening we
get together with the kitesurfers on the beach.
By now we have been watching them for about
three or four hours, as they were working on
their extraordinary ability to use the wind and
the currents to their advantage. Some of them tell
me that it’s taken them something like a month,
observing the strength and direction of the wind,
to be able to put their fantasies into practice. And
we’re in luck because this is the day that has been
predicted ideal for kitesurfing.
learn all the rules and measures for practicing the
sport safely.” There was also a story about how he
miscalculated one of his moves once and almost
died, but everything turned out well in the end.
Next we talked to Alberto Domínguez from Santa
Cruz del Norte, a fishing village about 20 kilometers
further east, also famous for being the location of
the principal Havana Club rum factory. He told us
how kitesurfing was such an important part of his
life; if too many days went by without practicing
the sport, he would actually get depressed. He also
mentioned his contacts with other people doing
kitesurfing, how interested they were and how
many of them were asking him to teach them the
tricks of the sport.
As we begin to chat, one of the first things that
stands out in their conversation is that kitesurfing
is indeed a group endeavor. Working together,
they are able to emulate each other and learn
more complex individual maneuvers to improve
their performances. So, as soon as any one of them
discovers that the conditions are ideal, they call
the rest of them so that they end up with a sizeable
group.
Everybody there agreed in emphasizing the
wonderful feeling of solidarity they were
experiencing. This provided a way for them to
improve because, as yet, Cuba still has no formal
courses or schools for the discipline. I next decided
to examine the equipment used for the sport,
from the design and comfort of the board to the
characteristics of the rigging, the steering arm and
the body harness. Not to be missed is the fabulous
kite that is their means of propulsion and which
allows each surfer to personalize his equipment.
The group we met was made up of young and very
enthusiastic athletes, with good senses of humor
and great physiques. The first one we talked to
was Yasser Cabello Rivero, a lifeguard who lives
in Guanabo Beach. He especially stressed the
idea that the learning process for kitesurfing is
tough: “You really have to be rigorous in order to
And so a wonderful day in Santa María del Mar came
to an end. More than anything, else we were able
to enjoy the warm waters that always invite you to
return. Driving back along the same route we used
to get there, this time ascending the hill, we were
able to get a last glimpse of the extraordinary view
of sand and sea stretching along the coast.
Photo by Alex Mene
contents
page 55
Lemay Gutiérrez Álvarez:
apnea diving in Cuba
photos by Y. del Monte
contents
page 56
When you decide to delve into research about such
a demanding practice as apnea diving, you begin
to understand the inner workings of this freediving extreme sport that has inspired growing
admiration for the men and women involved in
this fascinating universe. Basically, apnea deals
with submerging the body in an extreme situation
where the ability for resistance and for surpassing
unimaginable barriers is put to the test.
This specialty is characterized not only by its
inherent conditions but also by a kind of artistry
at the moment of executing each attempt. It could
be compared to having the gift of transforming a
rational and terrestrial animal into a docile marine
creature.
For my generation, apnea diving acquired a high
profile thanks to Deborah Andollo, the Mermaid of
the Deep. Not only did she break around 17 world
records in different specialties but she became an
iconic figure for many of us young people, intrigued
by her undeniably charismatic personality. Her
example has been followed by many talented
youngsters who continue to encourage and insert
free-diving in Cuba. In order to find one such
talented individual, we set out on another pleasant
journey along the Via Blanca Highway.
At the lovely northern shore of the province of
Mayabeque, around Villa Trópico on Jibacoa Beach,
we met one of the greatest exponents of apnea
in Cuba in the last few years: Lemay Gutiérrez
Álvarez, born in Jaruco, 1972.
He revealed to us that he first learned about apnea
from his father who had spent many years as a
diving instructor in Varadero, where he would
spend his school vacations. He also remembers the
friendly competitions as a child with friends to see
who could stay underwater the longest or swim
the greatest distance. They would even lay bets.
He was gradually discovering his natural abilities
for this sport.
Around 2000, he started to work as a diving
instructor at the Breezes Jibacoa Hotel (today’s
Memory Jibacoa Hotel) and he met Sandalio
Cienfuegos who at that time was the record holder
for static apnea. It didn’t take long for Sandalio to
notice the young man’s talent and so he retired
from competition in order to become his coach.
Under his guidance, Lemay broke the national
record for the first time in 2001 in dynamic apnea
diving with a team at 152 meters. In the following
years, he would break over ten more records.
He confessed to me that Deborah Andollo herself
told him that he had set a formidable pace for
breaking records. This had effectively placed him
beyond the reach of the rest of his competitors in
Cuba. Lemay had established a cycle where he was
breaking his own records around once a year.
Among all these exploits, the one that he
remembers with particular affection occurred
in 2011 at an international event in Havana—he
reached 189 meters and this brought him the gold
medal. Another important event in his history as
an athlete took place in 2013 when he submerged
to 203.64 meters. This is now the Pan-American
record for dynamic apnea with a team. Last year
in 2014, he became the first man to break the
100-meter barrier in the dolphin dive without fins:
he made it to exactly 125 meters.
It was enlightening for us to listen to Lemay tell
us about his physical preparations in great detail
and how this has changed in the last few years.
Nowadays, apnea divers train in the gym as if
they were track and field athletes. Lemay stresses
cardio training for himself by working out on
the static bicycle. He also runs, swims and does
exercises aimd specifically at strengthening his
leg muscles, which is essential for properly being
able to handle his fin movements. He also told us
that the technical quality of everything needed
to compete in this sport has greatly improved,
specifically something called the monofin, like one
big flipper, which facilitates the purely technical
aspects of free diving.
Lemay is presently one of a select group of divers
in the world who have been able to surpass the
200-meter mark. The other divers are Europeans,
principally from Italy and France. When we asked
him about any age considerations for the sport, he
told us that all the world record holders are over
forty years old. That seems to be the age at which
the desired maturity takes place when dealing with
controlling your metabolism and having your body
respond properly to emotions occurring during
the feat, especially at the final moments when you
have attained distance but the judges need to see
that you are in good shape to officially make the
mark.
We asked him what he is concentrating on as
he goes underwater after the goal. Without any
hesitation he said that he concentrates totally
on the pre-planned strategy. At the start he is
counting the flipper strokes in a specific distance
and then he begins to deal with the contractions
that are a clue to exhaustion. By doing this, he can
make a diagnosis and create a plan to relax and not
be overcome by those contractions.
Lemay Gutiérrez has not yet been able to
participate at any world championships even
though his results rank him among the best on
the planet. Those who know how humble he is
encourage him constantly to keep on training, to
let his dreams soar, or in his case, dive into the
deepest depths.
contents
page 57
Havana’s best places to eat
La Guarida
El Atelier
5
Bella Ciao
5
Café Bohemia
5
Café Laurent
4+
Experimental fusion
Homely Italian
Café
Spanish/Mediterranean
Interesting décor, interesting
menu.
Great service, good prices. A
real home from home.
Bohemian feel. Great
sandwiches, salads & juices
Attractive penthouse restaurant
with breezy terrace.
Calle 5 e/ Paseo y 2, Vedado
(+53) 7-836-2025
Calle 19 y 72, Playa
(+53) 7-206-1406
Calle San Ignacio #364, Habana
Vieja
Calle M #257, e/ 19 y 21, Vedado
(+53) 7-831-2090
Casa Miglis
El Chanchullero
La California
5
La Casa
5
5
5
Cuban-Creole/International
Contemporary fusion
Swedish-Cuban fusion
Beautiful C19 colonial building.
Great fresh pastas.
VIP service. The Robaina family
place. Thurs Sushi night.
Oasis of good food & taste in
Centro Habana
Fabulous value hole in the wall
tapas. Trendy.
Calle Crespo #55 e/ San Lázaro
y Refugio, Centro Habana
(+53) 7-863 7510
Calle 30 #865 e/ 26 y 41, Nuevo
Vedado
(+53) 7-881-7000
Lealtad #120 e/ Ánimas y
Lagunas, Centro Habana
(+53) 7-864-1486
Teniente Rey #457 bajos, Plaza
del Cristo, Habana Vieja
(+53) 7-872-8227
El Cocinero
Corte Príncipe
Il Divino
5
5+
4+
D. Eutimia
5+
International
Italian
International
Cuban/Creole
Industrial chic alfresco rooftop
with a buzzing atmosphere
Sergio’s place. Simple décor,
spectacular food.
Set in huge gardens outside
town. Great for the kids.
Absolutely charming. Excellent
Cuban/creole food.
Calle 26, e/ 11 y 13, Vedado.
(+53) 7-832-2355
Calle 9na esq. a 74, Miramar
(+53) 5-255-9091
Calle Raquel, #50 e/ Esperanza
y Lindero, Arroyo Naranjo
(+53) 7-643-7734
Callejón del Chorro #60C, Plaza
de la Catedral, Habana Vieja
(+53) 7 861 1332
Habana Mia 7
Iván Chef
La Fontana
4
La Guarida
5+
5
5+
International
International
International gourmet
Spanish
Consistently good food,
attentive service. Old school.
Justifiably famous. Follow in
the footsteps of Queen of Spain
Endless summer nights.
Excellent food and service.
Brilliantly creative and rich
food.
Calle 46 #305 esq. a 3ra,
Miramar
(+53) 7-202-8337
Concordia #418 e/ Gervasio y
Escobar, Centro Habana
(+53) 7-866-9047
Paseo #7 altos e/ 1ra y 3ra.
Vedado
(+53) 7-830-2287
Aguacate #9 esq. a Chacón,
Habana Vieja
(+53) 7-863-9697
Nautilus
Nazdarovie
El Litoral
5+
5
5+
Nero Di Seppia
5
International
French/Mediterranean
Soviet
ITALIAN
Watch the world go by at the
Malecón’s best restaurant.
Imaginative, tasty and
innovative menu.
Well designed Soviet décor,
excellent food & good service.
Malecón #161 e/ K y L, Vedado
(+53) 7-830-2201
Calle 84 #1116 e/ 11 y 13. Playa
(+53) 5-237-3894
Malecon #25, 3rd floor e Prado
y Carcel, Centro Habana
(+53) 7-860-2947
SThe new location for Havana’s
best pizza chef, Walter. Same
food, great locale.
Opera
5
Otra Manera
5
Río Mar
5
Calle 6 #122 e/ 1ra y 3ra,
Miramar
(+53) 5-478-7871
San Cristóbal
5
INTERNATIONAL
international
International
Cuban/Creole
Homely & intimate
environment. Quality food. By
reservation.
Beautiful modern decor.
Interesting menu and good
service.
Contemporary décor. Great
sea-view. Good food.
Deservedly popular.Consistently
great food. Kitsch décor.
Calle 5ta #204 e/ E y F, Vedado
(+53) 5-263-1632
(+53) 8-31-2255
Calle #35 e/ 20 y 41, Playa.
(+53) 7-203-8315
Ave. 3raA y Final #11, La Puntilla,
Miramar
(+53) 7-209-4838
San Rafael #469 e/ Lealtad y
Campanario, Centro Habana
(+53) 7-860-9109
Santy
Starbien
VIP Havana
304 O’Reilly
5+
5+
5
5
Sushi/Oriental
Spanish
international
Authentic fisherman’s shack
servicing world-class sushi.
Fabulous food and great service
in the heart of Vedado.
Jordi’s place. Fabulous modern
open-plan space.
Chic, stylish. Superb gin &
tonic. Best in Old Havana.
Calle 240A #3023 esq. a 3ra C,
Jaimanitas
(+53) 5-286-7039
Calle 29 #205 e/ B y C, Vedado
(+53) 7-830-0711
Calle 9na #454 e/ E y F, Vedado
(+53) 7-832-0178
O’Reilly #304‬ e/ Habana y
Aguiar,La Habana Vieja
(+53) 5-264-4725
contents
October 2015
page 58
La Guarida
5+
TOP PICK
Style of food
Contemporary fusion
CostExpensive
www.laguarida.com
Type of placePrivate (Paladar)
Food
Ambience
Service
Value
Best for Authentic, charming and intimate
atmosphere in Cuba’s best known
restaurant. Great food, professional. Classy.
Don’t Miss Uma Thurman, Beyoncé or the
Queen of Spain if they happen to be dining
next to you.
Concordia #418 e/ Gervasio y Escobar, Centro
Habana.
(+53) 7-866-9047
El Litoral
5+
TOP PICK
Style of food
International
CostExpensive
Food
Ambience
Service
Value
Best for Quality décor, good service and
great food. Best new place recently opened.
Don’t Miss Drinking a cocktail at sunset
watching the world go by on the Malecón
Malecón #161 e/ K y L, Vedado.
(+53) 7-830-2201
Nazdarovie
5+
TOP PICK
Style of food
Soviet
CostModerate
Food
Ambience
Service
Value
Best for Getting a flavor of Cuban-Soviet history along with babuska’s traditional dishes
in a classy locale.
Don’t miss Vodka sundowners on the
gorgeous terrace overlooking the malecon.
Malecon #25 3rd floor e/ Prado y Carcel, Centro
Habana
(+53) 7-860-2947
Santy
5+
TOP PICK
Style of food
Sushi
CostModerate
Food
Ambience
Service
Value
Best for Fabulous sushi, wonderful ambience
overlooking fishing boats heading out to sea.
World class.
Don’t miss Getting a reservation here.
Calle 240A #3023 esq. 3raC, Jaimanitas
(+53) 5-286-7039
contents
October 2015
page 59
Café Bohemia
5+
TOP PICK
Style of foodTraditional
CostModerate
Food
Ambience
Service
Value
Best for perfect for taking a break from long
walks and seeking shelter from the stifling
Cuban.
Don’t miss location in the cool inner
courtyard of the colonial building.
Ground floor of the Palacio de la Casa del Conde
de Lombillo, Calle San Ignacio #364
(+53) 5- 403-1 568, (+53) 7-836-6567
www.havanabohemia.com
Iván Chef Justo
5+
TOP PICK
Style of food
Spanish
CostExpensive
Food
Ambience
Service
Value
Best for Spectacular innovative food. Light
and airy place where it always seems to feel
like Springtime.
Don’t Miss The lightly spiced grilled mahimahi served with organic tomato relish.
Try the suckling pig and stay for the cuatro
leches.
Aguacate #9, Esq. Chacón, Habana Vieja.
(+53) 7-863-9697 / (+53) 5-343-8540
Casa Miglis
5
TOP PICK
Style of food
Swedish-Cuban fusion
CostExpensive
Food
Ambience
Service
Value
Best for The beautifully designed interior,
warm ambience and Miglis’s personality
create the feeling of an oasis in Central
Havana.
Don’t Miss Chatting with Mr Miglis.
The Skaargan prawns, beef Chilli and
lingonberries.
Lealtad #120 e/ Ánimas y Lagunas, Centro Habana
(+53) 7-864-1486
www.casamiglis.com
Habana Mía 7
5
TOP PICK
Style of food
International gourmet
CostModerate
Food
Ambience
Service
Value
Best for Stylish and fresh décor give a
Mediterranean feel for long endless summer
nights. Excellent food and service.
Don’t miss Watching the world go by on the
lovely terrace overlooking the ocean.
Paseo #7 altos e/ 1ra y 3ra, Vedado
(+53) 7-830-2287
www.habanamia7.com
contents
October 2015
page 60
La California
5
TOP PICK
Style of food
Cuban-Creole/International
CostModerate
Food
Ambience
Service
Value
Best for Beautiful C19 colonial building.
Popular place with quality food and great
service. Love the fresh pastas.
Dont’t Miss The interesting history of the
neighbourhood, where Chano Pozo (legendary Afro-Cuban jazz percussionist) hung out.
Calle Crespo #55 e/ San Lázaro y Refugio,
Centro Habana
(+53) 7-863-7510
Atelier
5
TOP PICK
Style of food
Experimental fusion
CostExpensive
Food
Ambience
Service
Value
Best for Interesting menu, beautiful building
with great décor and service.
Don’t miss Dinner on the breezy terrace
during summer.
Calle 5ta e/ Paseo y 2, Vedado
(+53) 7-836-2025
atelierdedecuba@yahoo.es
La Casa
5
TOP PICK
Style of food
International/sushi
CostExpensive
Food
Ambience
Service
Value
Best for Warm hospitality and openness
from the four generations of the Robaina
family. Quality food.
Don’t miss Thursday night sushi night.
The Piña Colada.
Calle 30 #865 e/ 26 y 41, Nuevo Vedado.
(+53) 7-881-7000
alerobaina@restaurantelacasacuba.com
Otramanera
5
TOP PICK
Style of food
International
CostModerate
Food
Ambience
Service
Value
Best for Beautiful modern décor and good
food.
Don’t miss Pork rack of ribs in honey. Sweet
& sour sauce and grilled pineapple
Calle 35 #1810 e/ 20 y 41, Playa
(+53) 7-203-8315
otramaneralahabana@gmail.com
reservas@otramaneralahabana.com
contents
October 2015
page 61
Sloppy Joe’s
Havana’s best Bars & Clubs
Traditional Bars
El Floridita
4+
Hemingway’s daiquiri bar.
Touristy but always full of life.
Great cocktails.
Obispo #557 esq. a Monserrate,
Habana Vieja
(+53) 7-867-1299
5
1950s Traditionals
GUEST PERFORMERS INCLUDE
BUENA VISTA SOCIAL CLUB
MEMBERS
Sociedad Rosalía de Castro,
Egido 504 e/ Monte y Dragones,
Old Havana
(+53) 5-270-5271
Sloppy
Joe’s Bar
4+
Cervecería
Antiguo Almacén
Madera y el Tabaco
Recently (beautifully)
renovated. Full of history.
Popular. Lacks a little ‘grime’.
Ánimas esq. a Zulueta, Habana
Vieja
(+53) 7-866-7157
5+
de
la
Microbrewery located
overlooking the restored docks
Simply brilliant.
Avenida del Puerto y San
Ignacio, La Habana Vieja
Contemporary Bars
El Cocinero
5+
Fabulous rooftop setting, great
service, cool vibe.
Calle 26 e/ 11 y 13, Vedado
(+53) 7-832-2355
Espacios
5-
Laid back contemporary bar
with a real buzz in the back
beer-garden.
TaBARish
5
A comfortable place to chat
/ hang out with your friends.
Great service.
Calle 10 #510, e/ 5ta y 31,
Miramar
(next to the Puente de Hierro)
(+53) 5-329-6325
www.facebook.com/fabrica.
deartecubano
(+53) 7-202-9188
Contemporary bars/clubs
Don Cangrejo
4+
Love it/hate it—this is the
oldest Friday night party
place and is still going strong.
Outdoor by the sea.
Ave. 1ra e/ 16 & 18, Miramar
(+53) 7-204-3837
Packed night after night with
a young dressed-up clientele
wanting to party. Don’t go
looking for Buena Vista Social
Club!
5
4
Bohemian attracting a hip
Cuban crowd. Excellent DJ’s
keep the place jumping.
El Gato Tuerto
4+
Late night place to hear
fabulous bolero singers. Can
get smoky.
Calle 17 e/ E y F, Vedado, La
Habana
(+53) 7-832-0433
Up & Down
5
From the team that brought
you Sangri-La. Attracting
a young party crowd, very
popular. Take a coat.
El Tocororo
5
Ave. 21 e/ 36 y 42, Miramar
(+53) 7-264-8343
4+
Expat favorite hangout. Small
indoor bar with live music and
eclectic clientele.
Calle O e/ 17 y 19, Vedado
(+53) 7-833-2224
Sangri-La
For the cool kids. Basement
bar/club which gets packed at
weekends.
Calle 3ra y B, Vedado
Calle 39 esq. 50, Playa
(+53) 5 -294-3572
Other
Sarao’s Bar
Bolabana
5+
X Alfonso’s new cultural center.
Great concerts, funky young
scene.
Calle 20 #503, e/ 5ta y 7ma.
(+53) 7-836-3031
Fábrica
de Arte
Calle 18 e/ 3ra y 5ta, Miramar
Bertolt Brecht
5
Think MTV Unplugged. Hip,
funky and unique with an artsy
Cuban crowd.
Calle 13 e/ I y J, Vedado
(+53) 7-830-1354
Gay-friendly
Cabaret
Las Vegas
4
Can get dark and smoky but
great drag show (11pm) from
Divino—one of Cuba’s most
accomplished drag acts.
Infanta #104 e/ 25 y 27, Vedado.
(+53) 7-870-7939
Humboldt 52
One of the hottest venues
for gay nightlife in Havana at
present.
Humboldt #52 e/ Infanta y
Hospital, Centro Habana.
(+53) 5-330-2989
5
Fashion
Bar Havana
A superb example of
queer class meets camp,
accompanied by a fantastic
floor show.
San Juan de Dios, esq. a
Aguacate, Habana Vieja
(+53) 7-867-1676
5
Café Bar
Madrigal
4
Pop décor, fancy cocktails, and
the staff’s supercilious attitude,
this is a gathering spot for all
types of folks.
Calle 17 #809 e/ 2 y 4, Vedado
(+53) 7-831-2433
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October 2015
page 62
Bertolt Brecht
5
TOP PICK
Contemporary Bar/clubs
Ambience
Popularity
Entertainment
Service & drinks
Best for Hanging out with hip & funky
Cubans who like their live music.
Don’t Miss Interactivo playing on a
Wednesday evening.
(+53) 7-830-1354
Espacios
5-
TOP PICK
Contemporary Bar
Ambience
Popularity
Entertainment
Service & drinks
Best for Laid back lounge atmosphere in
the garden area which often has live music.
Good turnover of people.
Don’t Miss Ray Fernandez, Tony Avila, Yasek
Mazano playing live sets in the garden.
Calle 10 #510 e/ 5ta y 31, Miramar
(+53) 7-202-2921
Sangri-La
5+
TOP PICK
Contemporary Bar/CLUB
Ambience
Popularity
Entertainment
Service & drinks
Best for Hanging out with the cool kids on
the Havana Farundula in the most popular
bar/club.
Don’t Miss The best gin and tonic in Havana.
Ave. 21 e/ 36 y 42, Miramar
(+53) 5-264-8343
Bolabana
5
TOP PICK
CONTEMPORARY
Ambience
Popularity
Entertainment
Service & drinks
Best for Trendy new location near Salón
Rosado de la Tropical
Don’t Miss Hipsters meet the Havana
Farándula
Calle 39 esq. 50, Playa
contents
October 2015
page 63
Humboldt 52
5
TOP PICK
Gay friendly
Ambience
Popularity
Entertainment
Service & drinks
Best for Hot staff, comfortable setting, and
welcoming vibe at Havana’s first full-time,
openly-gay bar
Don’t Miss The disco ball, a talented opera
duo performing Wednesdays and karaoke
and drag performances other days of the
week
Humboldt #52 e/ Infanta y Hospital,
Centro Habana.
(+53) 5-330-2989
Fábrica de Arte
5+
TOP PICK
Contemporary Bar
Ambience
Popularity
Entertainment
Service & drinks
Best for X Alfonso’s superb new cultural
center has something for everyone
Don’t Miss Artists who exhibit work should
demonstrate ongoing creativity and a
commitment for social transformation.
(next to the Puente de Hierro)
Fashion Bar Havana
5
TOP PICK
Gay-friendly
Ambience
Popularity
Entertainment
Service & drinks
Best for A superb example of queer class
meets camp, accompanied by a fantastic
floor show.
Don’t Miss The staff performing after 11pm
San Juan de Dios, esq. a Aguacate, Habana Vieja
(+53) 7-867-1676
TaBARish
5
TOP PICK
Contemporary Bar/CLUB
Ambience
Popularity
Entertainment
Service & drinks
Best for A comfortable place to chat / hang
out with your friends. Great service.
Don’t Miss The homemade Russian soup –
just like Matushka makes it.
Calle 20 #503, e/ 5ta y 7ma.
(+53) 7-202-9188
contents
October 2015
page 64
Basílica Menor de San Francisco de Asís
Havana’s best live music venues
Concert venues
Karl Marx
Theatre
5
World class musicians perform
prestigious concerts in Cuba’s
best equipped venue.
Calle 1ra esq. a 10, Miramar
(+53) 7-203-0801
Jazz
Café Jazz
Miramar
4+
Salsa/Timba
4
Attracts the best Cuban
musicians. Recently renovated
with an excellent new sound
system.
Ave. Paseo esq. a 39, Plaza de la
Revolución
(+53) 7-878-4273
Contemporary
5
Think MTV Unplugged when
musicians play. Hip, funky and
unique with an artsy Cuban
crowd.
(+53) 7-830-1354
Trova & traditional
Barbaram
Pepito’s Bar
4+
Some of the best Cuban Nueva
Trova musicians perform
in this small and intimate
environment.
Calle 26 esq. a Ave. del
Zoológico. Nuevo Vedado
(+53) 7-881-1808
A truly beautiful church,
which regularly hosts fabulous
classical music concerts.
Fábrica de Arte
5
X Alfonso’s new cultural center.
Great concerts inside (small
and funky) and outside (large
and popular!).
Oficios y Amargura, Plaza de
San Francisco de Asís, Habana
Vieja
Calle 26 e/ 11 y 13, Vedado (next
to the Puente de Hierro)
Jazz Café
La Zorra y el
Cuervo
4
Galerías de Paseo
Ave. 1ra e/ Paseo y A, Vedado
Cine Teatro Miramar
10:30pm – 2am
Ave. 5ta esq. a 94, Miramar
Café Teatro
Bertolt Brecht
5
A staple of Havana’s jazz
scene, the best jazz players
perform here. Somewhat cold
atmosphere-wise.
Clean, modern and
atmospheric. Where Cuba’s
best musicians jam and
improvise.
Café Cantante
Mi Habana
Basílica San
Francisco de Asís
4
Casa de la
Música
Miramar
A little rough around the edges
but spacious. For better or
worse, this is ground zero for
the best in Cuban salsa.
Smaller and more up-market
than its newer twin in Centro
Habana. An institution in the
Havana salsa scene.
Galiano e/ Neptuno y
Concordia, Centro Habana
(+53) 7-860-8296/4165
Calle 20 esq. a 35, Miramar
(+53) 7-204-0447
4+
Love it/hate it—this is the
oldest Friday night party
place and is still going strong.
Outdoor by the sea.
Ave. 1ra e/ 16 y 18, Miramar
(+53) 7-204-3837
4+
Late night place to hear
fabulous bolero singers. Can
get smoky.
Calle O entre 17 y 19, Vedado
(+53) 7-833-2224
Recently renovated, one of
Cuba’s most prestigious venues
for a multitude of events.
Paseo y 39, Plaza de la
Revolución.
5
Intimate and atmospheric, this
basement jazz club, which you
enter through a red telephone
box, is Cuba’s most famous.
Centro Habana
Gato Tuerto
5
Teatro Nacional
Calle 23 e/ N y O, Vedado
(+53) 7-833-2402
Casa de la
Música
Don Cangrejo
Sala Covarrubias
El Sauce
4
Ave. 41 esq. a 46, Playa
Times: varies wildly
(+53) 7-203-5322
5-
Ave. 9na #12015 e/ 120 y 130,
Playa
(+53) 7-204-6428
Teatro de
Bellas Artes
4+
Small intimate venue inside
Cuba’s most prestigious arts
museum. Modern.
Trocadero e/ Zulueta y
Monserrate, Habana Vieja.
5
The 1950s traditionals, a
project created over 10 years
ago, pays tribute to the Golden
Era of Cuban music: the 1950s.
Sociedad Rosalia de Castro,
Egido #504 e/ Monte y
Dragones, Havana Vieja
(+53) 7-861-7761
5
The legendary beer garden
where Arsenio tore it up. Look
for a salsa/timba gig on a Sat
night and a Sun matinee.
Great outdoor concert venue to
hear the best in contemporary
& Nueva Trova live in concert.
Tradicionales
de los 50
Salón Rosado
de la Tropical
4+
Salón 1930
‘Compay Segundo’
Buena Vista Social Club style
set in the grand Hotel Nacional.
Hotel Nacional
Calle O esq. a 21, Vedado
(+53) 7-835-3896
contents
October 2015
page 65
Havana’s Best Hotels
Hotel Nacional de Cuba
Simply the best…
Iberostar
Parque Central
5+
Santa Isabel
5+
Luxurious historic mansion
facing Plaza de Armas
Luxury hotel overlooking
Parque Central
5+
Stunning view from roof-top
pool. Beautiful décor.
Narciso López, Habana Vieja
(+53) 7-860-8201
Neptuno e/ Prado y Zulueta,
Habana Vieja
(+53) 7-860-6627
Saratoga
Terral
5
Wonderful ocean front
location. Newly renovated.
Paseo del Prado #603 esq. a
Dragones, Habana Vieja
(+53) 7-860-8201
Malecón esq. a Lealtad, Centro
Habana
(+53) 7-862-8061
Boutique Hotels in Old Havana
Florida
5
Beautifully restored colonial
house.
5
Cuban baroque meets modern
minimalist
Obispo #252, esq. a Cuba,
Habana Vieja
(+53) 7-862-4127
Oficios #152 esq. a Amargura,
Habana Vieja
Business Hotels
Meliá Cohíba
Palacio del
Marqués...
5
Oasis of polished marble and
professional calm.
Meliá Habana
5
Attractive design & extensive
facilities.
Ave Paseo e/ 1ra y 3ra, Vedado
(+53) 7- 833-3636
4
A must for Hemingway
aficionados
Mercure Sevilla
4
Trocadero #55 entre Prado y
Zulueta, Habana Vieja
(+53) 7-860-8560
On the banks of the Río
Almendares.
Calle 28-A e/ 49-A y 49-B,
Reparto Kohly, Playa
(+53) 7-204-9232
3
Deauville
Lack of pretension, great
location.
Galiano e/ Sán Lázaro y
Malecón, Centro Habana
(+53) 7-866-8812
4+
Hotel Nacional
Saint John’s
Lively disco, tiny quirky pool.
Popular.
(+53) 7-833-3740
H10 Habana
Panorama
4+
Cascades of glass. Good wi-fi.
Modern.
Ave. 3ra. y 70, Miramar
(+53) 7 204-0100
5
Riviera
3
Spectacular views over wavelashed Malecón
Calle O esq. a 21, Vedado
(+53) 7-835 3896
3
5
Mercaderes #202, esq. a
Lamparilla
(+53) 7-862-9293
Eclectic art-deco architecture.
Gorgeous gardens.
Economical/Budget Hotels
Bosque
Occidental
Miramar
Conde de
Villanueva
Delightfully small and intimate.
For cigar lovers.
Oficios #53 esq. a Obrapía,
Habana Vieja
(+53) 7-867-1037
Ave. 5ta. e/ 70 y 72, Miramar
(+53) 7-204-3583
Stunning views from the roof
garden restaurant.
Calle Obispo #153 esq. a
Mercaderes, Habana Vieja
(+53) 7- 860-9529
5+
Immensely charming, great
value.
Good value, large spacious
modern rooms.
Ave. 3ra y 70, Miramar
(+53) 5-204-8500
For a sense of history
Ambos Mundos
Hostal Valencia
Paseo y Malecón, Vedado
(+53) 7-836-4051
3
Vedado
3
Good budget option with a bit
of a buzz
(+53) 7-836-4072
contents
October 2015
page 66
Bohemia Boutique Apartments
Havana’s
best private
places to stay
For Help reserving any Private Accommodation (Casas Particulares) in Cuba please contact
sales.cu@cubatravelnetwork.com
Mid range - Casa Particular (B&B)
1932
Carlos in cuba
4
5
Gay Friendly BED and
Breakfast in Havana
Visually stunning, historically
fascinating. Welcoming.
Calle 2 #505 e/ 23 y 21, Vedado
(+53) 7-833-1329
(+53) 5-295-4893
carlosincuba@yahoo.com
www.carlosincuba.com
Campanario #63 e/ San Lázaro
y Laguna, Centro Habana
(+53) 7-863-6203
Habana
5
Beautiful colonial townhouse
with great location.
Julio y Elsa
5
Cluttered bohemian feel.
Hospitable.
Calle Habana #209, e/
Empedrado, y Tejadillo, Habana
Vieja.
(+53) 7-861-0253
Consulado #162 e/ Colón y
Trocadero, Centro Habana
(+53) 7-861-8027
Artedel
Hostal Guanabo
Up-scale B&Bs (Boutique hostals)
Cañaveral House
But undoubtedly the most
beautiful about private homes
in Cuba
5 Vitrales
39A street, #4402, between 44
y 46, Playa, La Habana Cuba
(+53) 295-5700
http://www.cubaguesthouse.
com/canaveral.home.
html?lang=en
5
Hospitable, attractive and
reliable boutique B&B with 9
bedrooms.
5+
Ydalgo Martínez Matos’s
spacious and contemporary
3-bedroom penthouse is
magnificent.
Habana #106 e/ Cuarteles y
Chacón, Habana Vieja
(+53) 7-866-2607
5
Beautiful 4 bedroom seafront villa in sleepy Guanabo.
Excellent food.
Calle 480 #1A04 e/ 1ra y 3ra,
Guanabo
(+53) 7-799-0004
Calle I #260 e/ 15 y 17, Vedado
(+53) 5-830-8727
Apartment rentals
Bohemia Boutique
Apartments
5+
5+
Beautifully designed
and spacious 3 bedroom
apartment. Spanish colonial
interiors with cheerful, arty
accents.
Gorgeous 1-bedroom
apartment beautifully
decorated apartment
overlooking Plaza Vieja.
Luxury Houses
5
Rent Room elegant and wellequipped. Beautiful wild
garden and great pool.
Calle 17 #1101 e/ 14 y 16, Vedado
(+34) 677525361
(+53) 7-832-1927
(+53) 5-360-0456
Casablanca
Tropicana
Penthouse
5
5
Morro-Cabaña Park. House #29
(+53) 5-294-5397
www.havanacasablanca.com
Michael
and María Elena
This leafy oasis in western
Havana has an attractive
mosaic tiled pool and three
modern bedrooms.
Calle 66 #4507 e/ 45 y Final,
Playa
(+53) 7-209-0084
5
Lamparilla #62 altos e/
Mercaderes y San Ignacio,
Habana Vieja
(+53) 5-829-6524
Galiano #60 Penthouse Apt.10
e/ San Lázaro y Trocadero
(+53) 5-254-5240
www.tropicanapenthouse.com
Elegant well-equipped villa
formerly owned by Fulgencio
Batista. Beautiful wild garden.
Suite Havana
Elegant 2-bedroom apartment
in restored colonial building.
Quality loft style décor.
A luxurious penthouse with
huge roof terrace and breathtaking 360 degree views of
Havana and the ocean.
Concordia #151 apto. 8 esq. a
San Nicolás, Centro Habana
(+53) 5-254-5240
www.casaconcordia.net
San Ignacio #364 e/ Muralla
y Teniente Rey, Plaza Vieja
Habana Vieja
(+53) 5- 403-1 568
(+53) 7-836-6567
Villasol
Casa Concordia
5
Residencia
Mariby
5
A sprawling vanilla-hued
mansion with 6 rooms
decorated with colonial-era
lamps, tiles and Louis XV
furniture
Vedado.
(+53) 5-370-5559
contents
October 2015
page 67
Artedel Luxury
5+
TOP PICK
3 Bedroom penthouse
Facilities
Rooms
Ambience
Value
Best for Stylish and contemporary furniture
along with a beautiful 360-degree view over
Havana
Don’t Miss Ydalgo – an impeccable host,
discreet or gregarious, as you prefer
Calle I #260, e/ 15 and 17, Vedado
(+53) 7-830-8727
Bohemia Boutique
Apartments Blue
5+
TOP PICK
Facilities
Rooms
Ambience
Value
Best for i1 internal balcony, 1 spacious
bedroom on the mezzanine with air
conditioning.
Don’t Miss The apartment is fully furbished,
plenty of light and very well ventilated.
San Ignacio #364 e/ Muralla y Teniente Rey, Plaza
Vieja, Habana Vieja
bohemia.plazavieja@gmail.com
(+53) 5 4031 568: (53) 7 8366 567
Bohemia Boutique
Apartments Red
5+
TOP PICK
Facilities
Rooms
Ambience
Value
Best for 3 small balconies (facing the Patio
of the Palace), 1 spacious bedroom with air
conditioning
Don’t Miss The apartment is fully furbished,
plenty of light and very well ventilated.
San Ignacio #364 e/ Muralla y Teniente Rey, Plaza
Vieja, Habana Vieja
bohemia.plazavieja@gmail.com
(+53) 5 4031 568: (53) 7 8366 567
Rosa D’Ortega
5+
TOP PICK
Boutique Villa
Facilities
Rooms
Ambience
Value
Best for Large elegant villa away from the
bustle of downtown Havana. Gracious hosts,
beautiful rooms.
Don’t Miss Exploring the off-the-beaten
track neighbourhood.
Patrocinio #252 esq. a Juan Bruno Zayas, 10 de
Octubre
(+53) 7-641-43-29 / (+53) 5-263-3302
http://www.larosadeortega.com
contents
October 2015
page 68

Havana - Cuba Explorer Tours

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