Suzuki DR650 Electrical Page

Transcription

Zen DR650
Other Pages
DR650.zenseeker.net
Contact:
Electrical
Electrical issues are the bane of many mechanics. And if you have an old and pre-owned vehicle, you might
have good reason to fear electrical mods and repairs.
For information on headlights see the DR650 Headlights Page.
For information on brake, running and turn signals, see the DR650 Signal Lights Page.
For information on heated clothing and grips, see the Riders Clothing Page.
Battery
Having a functioning battery is important if you have an electric start or like to run accessories while the
engine in not running. A battery may also decrease the load placed on stator and help prevent surges to your
accessories and lights. Plus at low RPMs, when your stator isn't putting out the 200Ws you were counting
on, you lights won't get as dim as they would without a strong battery.
Stock Battery
If you are running a lot of accessories, and don't have a kick start setup, you may desire to upgrade your
battery to a deep cycle bike battery. These are often used by law enforcement agencies that need to run
lights and communications systems for long periods while their bike is parked.
Odyssey PC310 Dry Cell Deep Cycle for 1996+ DR650s
One nice investment is a battery charging system such as a Battery Tender. This keeps your battery charged
up to help with easy starts, prolonging the life of your battery and decreasing the load on your bike's charging
system since it doesn't need to charge a half dead battery every time you go for a ride.
NiCd and other rechargeable battery packs are often used on off road to dual sport conversions. These
battery packs tend to be much lighter and more compact than lead acid batteries, which makes them easier to
retrofit into a bike. Suitable battery packs sometimes include those used in portable power tools, and remote
control toys (planes, cars, etc). For those looking to save some money or who have space limitations, they
can build their own battery pack to their own special requirements.
Stock Battery Requirement '90-91 DR650:
Part Number: 33610-18010 - replaced by 33610-35400 YB5LB in 1991
Battery Type: YB5L-B
Battery Type: 12N5-3B
Mfg: Yuasa
Mfg: Yuasa
Battery Family: YuMicron
Battery Family: Conventional
Voltage: 12
Voltage: 12
Amps: 0.5
Amps: 0.5
Capacity: 5
Dimensions: 4.75" x 2.375" x 5.125"
Metric Dimensions: 120mm x 60mm x 130mm
Weight: 3.5 lbs.
Metric Weight: 1.6 kg
Acid Volume: 12.2
Capacity: 5
Dimensions: 4.75" x 2.375" x 5.125"
Weight: 3.1 lbs.
Acid Volume: 13.5
Part Number: 33610-14D00 - replaced by 33610-14D20 - then 33610-C14D2-0J000 (YT4L)
12V, 10.8kC (3 Ah)/10HR Capacity
1.320 at 20°C (68°F) Standard electrolyte S.G.
Battery Type: YTX4L-BS
FT4L-BS
Mfg: Yuasa
Mfg: Furukawa
Battery Family: Maintenance Free
Voltage: 12
Voltage: 12
Capacity: 3
Amps: 0.4
C.C.A.: 50
Capacity: 3
Acid Volume: 0.18
Dimensions: 4 1/2" x 2 13/16" x 3 3/8"
Weight: 2.9 lbs.
Acid Volume: 0.18
Part Number: 33610-17E00 or 33610-32C10- replaced by 33610-17E10 (YTX12-BS)
12V, 36kC (3 Ah)/10HR Capacity
Battery Type: YTX12-BS
Mfg: Yuasa
Voltage: 12
Amps: 1.2
C.C.A.: 180
Capacity: 10
Dimensions: 6" x 3.4375" x 5.125"
Weight: 7.5 lbs.
Acid Volume: 0.6
Stock Battery Requirement '96-97 DR650SE:
Part Number: 33610-10D00 - replaced with 33610-33E20 (FTX9-BS)
12V, 28.8kC (8 Ah)/10HR Capacity
Battery Type: YB10L-B2
(CN)
Mfg: Yuasa
Battery Family: YuMicron
Mfg: Yuasa
Voltage: 12
Amps: 1.1
Voltage: 12
Capacity: 11
Amps: 0.9
Dimensions: 5.3125" x 3.5625" x 5.75"
C.C.A.: 120
Weight: 7 lbs.
Capacity: 8
Metric Dimensions: 135mm x 90mm x 145mm Dimensions: 6" x 3.4375" x 4.1875"
Weight: 5.4 lbs.
Acid Volume: 27
Acid Volume: 0.4
Stock Battery Requirement DR650SE 1998Part Number: 33610-10D00 - later replaced with 33610-32C10 (prior 2001) - then replaced with 33610-33E20
(FTX9-BS) in 2006
Mfg: Yuasa
Voltage: 12
Amps: 0.9
C.C.A.: 120
Capacity: 8
Dimensions: 6" x 3.4375" x 4.1875"
Weight: 5.4 lbs.
Polarity:
Acid Volume: 0.4
Related Links:
Yuasa
Charging and Battery Maintenance
Power Tender International
If your bike is garaged a lot, if you like to leave your park lights on, don't want to worry about your bike not
starting or just want your batter to last more than one season, you should look into getting a battery charging
and maintenance system. Battery Tender seems to have the corner on this market and their products seem to
do a good job of maintaining your DR's battery.
Related Links:
Battery Tender
Fritec German
Stator
The stock stator on new and old DR650s is 200 watts (@5,000 RPMs). This isn't as good as some cruisers
out there, but is good for a dualsport.
Stock DR650 Stator
These do burn out from time to time, leaving the bike dead after the battery is drained. I am not aware of any
higher output stators on the market, but if you are - please let me know.
Regulator
This sits out on the front of the bike and generally doesn't give you any grief. Upgrades are generally not
necessary. The regulator put out 13.5-15.5V @5,000 RPMs.
Stock Regulator
Fuses
Fuses are pretty straight forward and the DR 650 only comes with 4.
Main
De-comp.
Headlight (H)
Headlight (L)
20A
20A
10A
10A
If you add other fusible accessories, you may want to keep them near the other fuse to make them easier to
find.
Auto fuses come in regular size and mini (as well as less useful large sizes). The minis will fit into the fuse box
on a DR, you if your accessories use mini auto fuses, you only need to pack extra fuses in that size.
Auto Circuit Breaker
The also make circuit breakers and other fancy resettable fuses and the like that will fit in the fuse box. These
are generally not necessary, and if they are, you probably have some electrical issues that need addressing.
Related Links:
Wrangler NW Power Products
Ways to Stretch your Juice
There are a few ways to stretch the 200 watts (@ full rev) your DR puts out. This may become an issue if
you have a weak battery with an electric start or wish to use heated clothing or grips and see at night.
Resist the urge to run extra auxiliary lights and headlights (see Headlights)
Hook up a relay for your headlights and install a cutoff switch to give you more juice during startups or all the time if you don't want to use your headlights. (see Headlights)
Switching out your brake lights to LED will save you around10-15W per taillight bulb (see Signal
Lights)
Replacement of your front headlight with and HID light (see Headlights)
Using a digital thermostat for clothing in lieu of a rheostat (see Rider Clothing)
If you decide to convert your signal lights into running/brake lights, use LED lights instead - (see Signal
Lights)
If you use a load resistor instead of a non thermal flasher relay, don't wire it so that it pulls a load if
running lights are used..
Be aware of LED replacement bulbs which may have load resistors built in for signal flasher
compatibility
Clean and tighten and use dielectric grease on all connections to the main fuse, regulator, rectifier,
generator/alternator, battery, ignition key switch.
Run at higher RPMs in town to crank out a few extra watts. If you have an older DR with the stock
carb, you are probably already doing this to avoid stalling.
When rewiring and/or adding accessories, use larger gauge wire than you need, solder and seal
connections when possible and use relays whenever a switch is used.
Wiring Diagrams
There are a few differences in US, Canadian, Australian, and other DR650s. This mostly pertains to the
lighting issues (on/off light switch, passing light switch, and city light).
Wiring Schematics by Model Year and Country
←These may not
accurately represent
1990 and 1991 DR650s.
'90-'93 USA + Canada
'90-'93 Australia
'94-'95 USA+ Canada
'94-'95 Others
'96-'97 USA+ Canada
'96-'97 Australia
'98 on
'90-'93 Others
Colorized Version
by Peter De
Ceulaer
'96-'97 Austria + Switzerland
'96-'97 Others
Power Outlets
The DR650 didn't come with any power outlets to allow you to plug in all our special accessories. And like
many things in this world, not all outlets and plugs are the same, but whatever outlet(s) you end up installing
on your DR650, you can always use an adapter to hook up your choice of gadgets.
SAE Connector
These are generally used to hook up lights to towed trailers and make for great connectors for your bike's
accessories. It is an all-weather low-voltage, medium current connector that provides a very firm and secure
connection and is far less cumbersome than auto power outlets or even BMW/Euro outlets. The downside to
its sleek size is that it can be a challenge to hook up with gloved or frozen hands. And if the cable attached to
the battery is just zip-tied to the bike, you will probably need two hands to the the connectors lined up, which
isn't conducive to safe riding. Then again, you shouldn't be trying to hook up your electric vest and zip up
your jacket while entering the freeway.
SAE Connector End
This connection type uses both a male and female terminal for both the power source outlet and connection
end of each accessory cord. As long as you wire your accessory cable and your power source cables
correctly the first time, you shouldn't have problems with this stet-up. ;
The hot wire connected directly to the battery or other power source's positive (red) terminal should be
wired to the rubber-shrouded female side of the SAE connector. Likewise, the positive wire on the
accessory cord should be connected to the bare metal male plug end of the accessory cord. If you use and
extension cord, they you will need to wire it so that the male terminal goes to the female terminal.
European DIN Sockets (also BMW style, John Deere, Bosch, Hella connectors, DIN
standard connector, mini plug)
These European DIN (Deutsches Institut für Normung - German Institute for Standardization) connectors are
very popular outlet plug in the motorcycle community. It is similar to the US 12V auto cigarette lighter outlets
and adapters, but holds the adapter in the plug much more securely. these allow for easy plugging and
unplugging of accessories without too much worry of the plug vibrating loose during a ride. It is also easy to
plug in accessories with a gloved hand if the outlet is securely fixed to the bike.
BMW/Euro Plug End
This plug type is used by both BMW and John Deere and produced by Hella, Bosch and other aftermarket
companies. The surface mount Hella female socket provide a snug grab and the Kiwi ones are rated for 32A
at 12V.
Some plugs are set up for use with both regular cigarette lighter outlets and the smaller BMW type outlets.
These may use a plastic spacers that wrap around the end of the plug to allow them to fit into automotive
cigarette lighter outlets. Unfortunately many of these have poor power connections and low amperage
ratings.
In regards to wiring, the center contact of the female outlet and the tip of the male plug should be wired as
positive (+) leads.
Part numbers:
Hella 16A 2 Pole Socket with Cover: 4916 or 8JB 008 023-001
Hella 16A 2 Pole Surface Mount Socket: 8JB 004 123-001
Hella 32A 2 Pole Surface Mount Socket: 4917
Hella 32A 2 Pole Plug: 4914 or 8JA 002 262-003
John Deere heavy duty female socket: MG82002966
John Deere economy female socket: AL25073
John Deere male plug: RE11344
Euroline female socket: 61 08 102
Euroline male plug: 61 08 106
Bosch male plug: 0 986 352 000
Bosch female socket: 0 352 321 003
BMW socket kit: 61 13 2 319 167
BMW male plug: 71 60 7 653 870
12mm Widder Style Connector
These were originally used as German antenna connectors. Their design allows for a good amount of current
and are used in Widder heated clothing.
MANIC Salamander Zip 12mm Outlet
This uses a double male peg to double female peg, much like AC/DC outlets in most of Europe. You will
need to take note as to which side is positive and which s negative as the plug design is nonpolarized and you
can plug it in backwards. If you didn't use red and black wire or use them appropriately to identify which
side is which, you may wish to paint, tape or otherwise mark the connectors to avoid erroneous connections.
These connector types can also vibrate loose and aren't the best connector type for most motorcycle uses.
They do allow you to switch polarity on power cords, just in case you have two bikes that are wired
differently.
Auto Cigarette Lighter Adapter
This is the most popular outlet system used in the automotive world. You can find all sorts of items to plug
directly into these outlets as well as all different qualities of outlets and plug ends. Unfortunately, many of the
easy to find outlets are of poor quality, very in maximum current limits, allows for poor connections and are
not always dependable. The outlets themselves tend to be on the bulky side for motorcycle use.
Marine Grade 12 Power Outlet
If you would like to avoid installing junk from the local auto store that will quickly rust on a bike, you might
want to look into marine grade outlets and connectors.
Like the BMW outlets, the center contact of the female outlet and the tip of the male plug should be wired as
positive (+) leads.
USB Port
12/24V to 5V USB
With an explosion of computer and laptop peripherals, there are lot of devices that can run off of or get
charged by a 5V USB port.
120/220V Inverters
There are lots of inverters on the market these days. Some are small enough to fit in your pocket and can
allow you to power all sorts of items with in the middle of nowhere. You can find one that plugs directly into
a automotive power outlet or wire in to your bike with or without disconnects.
Related Links:
Cyclenutz - Power outlets
Powerlet - lots of power outlets
MANIC Salamander - Zip on outlets
Twisted Throttle more outlets and such
Aerostich
Widder 12mm nonpolar connectors and adapters
Marinco - Marine grade electrical outlets and connectors
Battery Tender - SAE cords and battery charger
BestRest Products
Warm and Safe Heated Gear - adapters
Please feel free to link to this site so that others can find it. It's easy to link to this site, just copy one of the
texts below onto your web page:
Zen's DR650
<a
href="http://DR650.zenseeker.net">Zen's DR650</a>
Copyright © 2000-2009

Suzuki DR650 Electrical Page

Transcription

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