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ZOO MED’S
GUIDE
TO
BETTAS
by Ashley Rademacher
ZOO Med’s
GUIDE TO BETTAS
by Ashley Rademacher
taBLe OF COntents
Introduction .............................................................................1
Types of Bettas ........................................................................2
Color Patterns .........................................................................4
Is a Betta the Right Pet for You? .............................................5
Selecting a Healthy Animal......................................................5
Habitat .....................................................................................5
Temperature and Water Quality ...............................................6
Foods and Feeding .................................................................7
Diseases and Health................................................................8
Betta Behavior .........................................................................8
Breeding Bettas .......................................................................9
Caring for Young Bettas ........................................................11
Summary ...............................................................................12
ISBN 978-0-578-05913-6
Copyright ©2010 Zoo Med Laboratories, Inc.
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form
without the permission of Zoo Med Laboratories, Inc.
intrOdUCtiOn
Have you ever been into a pet store and seen a display of small colorful
fish with long flowing fins in small plastic cups? These bright, solitary fish
are known as Siamese Fighting Fish, Bettas, or known scientifically as
Betta splendens. There are many reasons that these fish have become
such popular pets. They are beautiful, hardy fish that do not require
much space or expensive equipment. These unique fish belong in the
Anabantoid family. Members of this family have a special breathing organ
called a labyrinth organ which gives them the amazing ability to breathe
air at the surface of the water. This allows the Betta to live in oxygen poor
rice paddies and slow moving streams. This unique adaptation makes
Bettas an ideal fish for a small nano aquarium or fish bowl.
Why are they called Fighting Fish?
Bettas are native to the tropical lands of Thailand, Cambodia and
Vietnam. In these countries they have been kept and selectively bred in
captivity for thousands of years. Males used to be forced to fight each
other much like dog fights or cock fights. Due to the aggressive and
territorial nature of these fish, they would often fight to the death. These
male fish are usually housed singly and should not be kept with other
individuals of the same species as males will fight with other males and
females. Allowing fish to fight is considered inhumane and cruel and
should never be practiced.
How can they live in such a small amount of water?
Bettas are highly specialized fish which have adapted to living in small
puddles in the wild. We do not recommend that a Betta be kept in less
than one gallon of water. Smaller containers allow waste and toxins to
build up in the water too quickly and may cause unnecessary stress for
your fish.
Is it a Male or Female?
Most Bettas sold in pet stores are males because they have the long,
beautiful fins that females do not. Males tend to be more aggressive and
often more colorful than female Bettas.
Anatomy of Betta splendens
Dorsal Fin
Pectoral Fin
Caudal Penduncle
Eye
Mouth
Operculum
(gill cover)
Beard
Ovipositor
Caudal Fin
(tail)
(female only)
Ventral Fins
Anal Fin
tYPes OF Bettas
Wild type Bettas are not as colorful and do not have the long flowing
fins like those found in pet stores. Through selective breeding over more
than a thousand years, now a wide variety of fish are available. You can
find Bettas with different types of tails and dorsal fins and in all different
colors and patterns.
Types of Tails
Round – This tail is
rounded and has no sharp
corners.
Veiltail – most common
long tail.
Delta - Straight edges fan
away from body at a 45°
angle.
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Types of Tails, Continued
Spadetail – spade shaped.
Plakat – Short tail.
Crowntail – appears frayed.
Giant - Giant Bettas have a body length
of 3 inches or longer! They are also
known as King Bettas.
Half Moon - Caudal fin should form a
perfect “D” shape when flared.
Split or Double Tail – Has two Caudal fins.
The two lobes should be equal in size.
Color Patterns
Solid Color: Examples are red, blue,
yellow and additional rare colors such
as platinum and black.
Bi-colored : The Body is one color and
the fins are all a completely different
shade.
Cambodian : Have a pinkish- white
or salmon colored body with highly
colored fins (usually red).
Butterfly : Body colors that partially
blend into the color of the fins which is
ideally a transparent color.
Marble : Has a dark body with a pinkish,
white, or salmon-colored head. Has a
combination of dark and light colors.
Also known as piebald.
Irregular Multicolored Bettas : Can have
many different colors throughout the
body and fins. Very commonly found in
pet stores.
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Is a Betta the Right Pet For You?
Bettas are colorful, fascinating fish. They do not require as much
equipment or space as many other fish and can be fun, low maintenance
fish. This is an ideal pet for an apartment, dorm room or office. A basic set
up will house your Betta for its entire life. Bettas live an average of about
three years but have been known to live up to five. If you are looking for an
exotic, interesting pet that does not require too much up-keep, this may
be the perfect animal for you!
Selecting a Healthy Animal
When selecting a Betta, it is important to look over the entire animal
and its environment. Bettas are usually housed in small plastic cups at the
pet store or they may be kept in a community tank with other species of
tropical fish. No matter what the tank size, the water should be relatively
clean and clear. White cottony patches on the fish may be fungus which
can be hard to combat. Some stores will keep Bettas in bluish looking
water that is treated with a preventative medication. This is normal and
does not always indicate health problems.
An unhealthy Betta is fairly easy to spot if you know what to look for. A
healthy fish’s body should be full and streamlined but not look bloated.
The scales should be shiny and flat against the body. They should not be
dull or sticking out. Try to avoid purchasing a Betta with scars or obvious
discoloration on the body. Irregular white, gray, red or black patches or
spots on the body or fins may indicate disease. The fins should be full and
not shredded (except for Crowntail or Combtail varieties). Torn fins may
indicate bacterial or fungal infections that will heal but may leave scars.
A fish that keeps its fins pinned close to the body may be very stressed
or sick.
While Betas are lazy fish that lay around a lot, they should be feisty and
responding to outside activity. The fish should appear to float upright and
should not be constantly lying on the bottom. These fish will rest a lot, so
handle the container gently to get the fish’s attention.
Habitat
Bettas are naturally found in
small, shallow ponds, rice paddies,
oxygen poor puddles, and even
slow moving streams. They are
not well equipped for swimming
against a current and should not
have much water movement in
their habitat. Only use a low flowing
filter in aquariums of at least 2
gallons for Bettas. Provide plants
and decorations such as Zoo Med’s Floating Betta Log for hiding and
bubble nest building. A layer of sand or gravel can help keep the tank
clean by allowing beneficial bacteria to develop. A Zoo Med Betta Bed
Leaf Hammock will provide a good resting place for your Betta. They will
sometimes spend hours lounging near the surface, gulping air without
even getting up!
Temperature and Water Quality
One key to a happy, healthy Betta is good water
quality and the proper temperature. Tap water is
usually treated with chlorine and can have other
heavy metals which are harmful to a fish’s gills and
health.
Preparing the water for your Betta is important but
not difficult. First, rinse everything that is going into
the tank. Gravel, plants, and decorations should be
rinsed in cool water to prevent contamination and
remove dust. Fill the bowl with bottled water (not
distilled) or tap water and add a water conditioner to
make the water safe for your fish. Zoo Med’s Betta
H20 Water Conditioner will remove chlorine and
chloramines and detoxifies nitrite and heavy metals BP-10 Betta H2O
making the water safe for your fish. It will also add Instant Betta Water
electrolytes to relieve stress and promote healing.
Conditioner
Be sure that the water in your Betta’s new home is
at the appropriate temperature – ideally between 76-78 degrees. Before
introducing your fish to the bowl, the fish should be allowed to slowly
acclimate to the temperature in the bowl. This can be done in a couple
of ways. Place your Betta in a plastic bag with the water from its cup
and seal it closed. Allow the bag to float in the bowl for 15 - 20 minutes.
Do not forget to release your Betta from the bag to the bowl as it will
eventually run out of air. When you release your fish into its new habitat, it
will most likely swim for a short time, then go to the bottom to
rest. Your Betta probably will not eat right away and should
be given some time to get used to its new environment –
about 3-6 hours.
Maintaining proper water quality is very important
to the health of your fish. Water quality is defined
as the physical, chemical, and biological
characteristics of water. The most important
aspect of water quality for Bettas is
ammonia, nitrite and nitrate content.
These are all bi-products of waste. There
are a few ways to prevent unhealthy levels
of any of these contaminates. Complete
or partial water changes should be done
on a weekly basis. Water changes can
be done by siphoning some of the water
out of the tank or bowl with a “gravel
vacuum” or by emptying the entire bowl
and cleaning and refilling it. There are a couple of advantages to doing
partial water changes. This method allows you to remove much of the
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waste and 30-40% of the water from the bowl then replace it with fresh
water (treated with water conditioner) without having to re-acclimate your
fish to its home. Partial water changes also allow much of the beneficial
bacteria in the bowl to remain which is very important for water quality.
Bettas are not very active fish and do not use a lot of energy so it is not
necessary to feed them very much. Any uneaten
food becomes waste and dirties the water faster.
Overfeeding is a common mistake that can lead to
poor water quality and the need for more frequent
water changes. Although Bettas should not have
much water movement, a couple of types of
filtration systems are acceptable. A small under
gravel filter or sponge “dirt magnet” run by an air
pump can help remove waste with slow water
circulation.
Bettas are tropical fish native to Southeast
Asia and should be kept in water temperatures
between 74 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Ideally,
the temperature should be kept between 76 and
78 degrees. In some cases, room temperature is
BP-1 Betta Pellets
sufficient and no heating elements will be required.
Use of a Zoo Med Bettatherm Heater will
help maintain proper temperatures for
your Betta fish. Bowls should never be
kept on a windowsill as this could cause
the bowl to become too hot in the sun or
too cold at night or on a cold day. Do not
keep the bowl in direct sunlight as this
will likely cause excess algae growth and
can overheat your Betta.
Foods and Feeding
BP-5 Betta
Dial-A-Treat
In the wild,
Bettas eat insect
larvae, small worms and other small insects.
These foods provide high concentrations of
proteins, fats and highly unsaturated fatty acids.
One of the Betta’s favorite foods is live mosquito
larvae! There are many different nutritious foods
available for Betta owners to offer their fish.
Commercially prepared diets such as Zoo Med’s
Micro Floating Betta Pellets should be fed as a
staple. Bettas should be fed a small amount once
or twice daily and should eat all of the food offered
within five minutes or less. Any leftovers should
be removed to prevent polluting the bowl. Many
other commonly available food items for Bettas
include fruit flies, Mysis shrimp, Daphnia, Brine
shrimp, bloodworms, blackworms and krill. These
insects and crustaceans can be purchased live, frozen or freeze dried
and should be fed as a treat twice a week. Zoo Med’s Betta Dial-A-Treat
includes Mysis, Daphnia and Blood Worms which Bettas love.
Diseases / Health
Bettas are generally very hardy fish and with the proper conditions
should not experience many health issues. If you find that your fish is not
behaving normally or appears to be ill, it is
best to consult your local pet or fish store
or a veterinarian that has experience with
tropical fish. There are a few diseases
that are more common than others. Most
of these diseases can be prevented by
keeping your Betta’s home clean and at
the proper temperature, feeding a proper
diet and avoiding stressful situations
such as unnecessary handling or
movement of the fish and its habitat. Some of the most common diseases
that affect Bettas include “Ich” and “velvet”. These
diseases can look like salt granules on the body
and fins, velvety patches on the body or otherwise
discolored patches. Red sores near the mouth
could indicate a bacterial or viral “mouth rot”.
Shredded or frayed fins may indicate “Fin or Tail
Rot”. “Dropsy” is a disease that makes the fish look
like it is bloated with a big, fat belly and makes the
scales stick out from the body. If your fish shows
any of the above symptoms, you should perform
a water change and bring the water temperature
up to 78- 80 degrees. Consult your local fish store
to find the proper treatment for the disease. When
caring for animals, “an ounce of prevention is
worth a pound of cure,” so maintaining the proper
BL-20 Betta Bed Leaf environment is imperative
Hammock
to having a happy healthy
Betta.
Betta Behavior
Unlike many fish that live in lakes, rivers and
the ocean, Bettas do not have the need to swim
around all day. They can often be found resting
on the bottom of their puddle or even on a plant
near the surface. In an oxygen poor puddle, these
fish must swim to the surface and “gulp” air to
breathe. They will excitedly swim around when
food is present, attacking their prey. Bettas are
very aggressive and territorial. Since they live in
such small areas in the wild, they must defend
their territory. This is why they are often housed BE-10 Floating Betta
Exercise Mirror
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alone. When a male Betta sees another Betta, he will flare out his fins
and beard. This display could be an aggressive territorial display to warn
another male Betta that he is ready to fight or a mating dance to attract
the attention of a female Betta.
Under human care, their behavior will not be much different from their
wild counterparts. They should never have to worry about defending their
territory, escaping from predators (unless they are unprotected from a
family cat or toddlers fingers) or actually searching for food so they will
spend much of the day resting. They may be seen sitting on the bottom
of the bowl or anchored in a plant. Zoo Med’s Betta Bed Leaf Hammock
provides an area for your Betta to rest near the surface of the water so
he doesn’t even need to get up to breathe! Without any need to display
or defend its territory, your Betta may seem to be a little bored. The use
of Zoo Med’s Floating Betta Exercise Mirror for short sessions (5 minutes
at a time) a couple of times a day will keep your Betta moving, alert, and
active. When your Betta sees his own reflection, he will react like it is
another fish. He may attack the fish in the mirror but will most likely just
swim around it showing off his beautiful fins. Be sure not to leave the
mirror in for too long as this could be too stressful for your fish.
Because of Bettas’ aggressive nature and basic needs, it may be
difficult to find a suitable tank mate for your Betta. A male Betta should
never be housed with any other fish from the Anabantoid family or with
any fish that might provoke aggression such as a fancy guppy. The long
fins of these types of fish can confuse a Betta and make him believe that
this is a Betta he must fight. Most other fish from the pet store have more
elaborate needs than a Betta so will not be able to share a bowl.
With time, your Betta will probably begin to recognize you. When you
approach the bowl, he may become alert or come to the surface if he
suspects it is feeding time. You can use the Feeding Wand included with
Zoo Med’s Micro Floating Betta Pellets to train your Betta to eat from the
wand. This is a fun way to interact with your pet.
If you ever look at your bowl, particularly the day after doing a water
change, and see a bunch of bubbles or foam at the surface of the water,
congratulations! You have a happy male Betta! Bettas are “bubble nesters”
and building the nest is the male’s job. Warm, clean water may prompt
the male to make a nest in hopes that a female will soon visit his puddle
or bowl. He makes this nest by blowing bubbles and covering them in a
slime produced in his mouth. This slime makes the bubbles strong, sticky
and anti-bacterial. This nest would serve as a home to eggs and babies if
the male had a chance to breed.
Breeding Bettas
After owning one of these beautiful fish for a while, you may think you
want to try breeding them. Breeding Bettas is fascinating and fun but can
be more labor intensive than one would think. Here are some basic steps
to breeding Bettas but it is important to remember that every situation
may be different and call for slightly different techniques. If you choose to
breed your Bettas, you should first make sure that you have, or can get
everything that you will need before starting.
Before breeding, both the male and female must be in proper breeding
condition. A skinny or otherwise unhealthy fish may not breed well or the
stress from breeding may kill it. Fish should be fed live or frozen foods
in addition to pellet food for two weeks before breeding. Some widely
available food items are blackworms, bloodworms, brine shrimp, mysis
shrimp, and mosquito larvae. These foods may be live, frozen or freeze
dried. The male will not eat for a number of days after breeding and the
female will use a lot of energy when laying eggs, so well fed fish are
important to successful breeding and recovery.
Next, the male’s breeding tank should be prepared. It is best to use a
bare bottom, five to ten gallon tank. A sponge filter or dirt magnet can
be used with a small air pump to help maintain water quality through the
breeding and rearing process.
Betta breeding tank
The water level should be
(5 to 10 gallon size)
dropped to only 4 – 6 inches
and the temperature should be
set between 80-82 degrees.
Add a fake floating plant or half
of a Styrofoam cup to provide
Water level
a nesting area for the male.
(4” to 6”)
He may like to stick his nest
to something on the surface of
the water. The tank should be
covered to keep out dust and
other contaminates and some
kind of light should be added.
An aquarium light will work
Heater
Plastic plant
(80° to 82° F)
(for nest building) well for this purpose. The male
should be acclimated to this
tank then released into it. He may take a little while checking things out
but eventually will get to work building a nest. He may take hours working
on the nest. Most likely you will look in the tank one day and there it
will be! The nest should look full and fairly firm. The bigger the nest the
better. This nest will need to hold the eggs and babies near the surface
for a number of days so a good nest is very important. A good nest is
also important to the female. If the female is introduced to the male and
doesn’t find his nest to be good enough, she may destroy it and become
aggressive toward him.
After preparing the male’s breeding tank, the female should be placed
in a jar or cup having a lid with holes in it. This cup or jar should be placed
in the male’s tank so that the fish can see each other. This visual contact
should prompt the male to do a mating dance and may promote nest
building behaviors. During this time the female’s horizontal stripes will
change to vertical stripes. These stripes indicate that the female has eggs
that are ready to mature for breeding. The eggs will not mature until she
is placed in the same water as the male.
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When a good nest is present in the male’s tank and gravid coloration is
present on the female, the two are ready to be introduced to each other.
The female should gently be poured into the male’s tank. The pair should be
carefully observed for overly aggressive behavior. Be prepared to remove
the female if the two begin to fight. It may take several introductions
like this before successful breeding occurs. The female may be curious
and want to explore the tank, but if she has eggs to be laid, she will be
looking for a nest. She should inspect the males nest and determine if
she approves. If she doesn’t destroy the nest and attack the male, she
will turn her attention to the male who will be “dancing” all around her.
His dance is very beautiful. He will flare out all of his fins and beard and
turn his body diagonally in the water. He will then swim back and forth
all around her until she submits to breeding. The male will approach the
female and flip her upside down then fold his body in an upside down “U”
shape over her. They will remain in the position until the female releases
1-15 eggs and he fertilizes them. After she has released her eggs, she will
go into a temporary “coma” and float to the surface of the water. While
she is floating, the male will catch the falling eggs and pick up eggs from
the bottom of the tank then “spit” them into the bubble nest. If the female
wakes up before the male is finished collecting eggs, the female will eat
any remaining eggs. They will repeat this process for many hours until
the female has released up to 400 eggs. Once the female has laid all of
her eggs, she should be removed, placed in a smaller container, fed and
allowed to rest. The temperature in her container should be maintained in
the low eighties as this will promote healing and recovery.
After the female is gone, the male will continue caring for the eggs.
The water level can be dropped to about 3 inches to make the male’s
job easier. (Pressure at the bottom of a deep tank will kill the babies). For
the next three or four days, the male will catch falling eggs, pick up eggs
from the bottom and do his best to keep them in the nest. He will clean
them in his mouth and maintain the nest by blowing more bubbles. He
will not eat or rest for a few days, so do not provide any food as it will only
pollute the tank. After about 24 hours, the eggs will grow tails. The tails
can be seen pointing straight down from the nest. The babies will begin
to swim around after 3 to 4 days. The male will continue trying to keep
them in the nest until they are good swimmers. At this point he will usually
become frustrated and begin eating the fry. At this time, the male should
be removed and placed in his own jar or container. He should be fed and
allowed to rest in nice warm (in the low eighties) water as he will be tired
and hungry.
Caring For Young Bettas
After removing the male, it will be your turn to care for the new
baby fish, or fry. They will be growing and will need plenty of food. To
maintain their health, they must have excellent water quality of the proper
temperature. Warm, humid air just above the surface of the water will aid
in the development of their labyrinth organ. The first step after removing
the male will be to replace the cover from the tank with plastic food wrap
taped in place. New air will be allowed in during feeding and cleaning and
with the air pump, but this practice will help maintain temperature and
humidity in the air in the tank for the next three weeks.
When the fry start darting around near the surface of the water, it will
be time to feed them. Fry will usually be free swimming in about 3 days.
Most breeders will feed infusoria and “green water” for the first couple of
days followed by newly hatched baby brine shrimp. Brine shrimp eggs
and hatch kits should be available from your local pet store, fish store, or
online. Hatching brine shrimp takes about 24 hours, so be sure that you
have all of your materials ready before your babies are hungry. For the first
few weeks, the babies should be fed at least 2 – 3 times daily. Daily partial
water changes may be necessary to maintain good water quality. As long
as your babies are good swimmers, you can gradually begin to increase
the water level to help maintain water quality. When the fry are about 3
weeks old, they may need to be transferred to a larger grow out tank.
Remember to make all changes gradually to avoid shocking your babies.
sUMMarY
Bettas are fantastic little fish with fascinating personalities. They can
be kept without too much work, space or expensive equipment and are
a great starter pet for anyone. By reading this book, you should have a
greater understanding of how to care for a Betta throughout its lifetime. If
you believe that a Betta would be the right pet for you and you would like
to learn more, the following reading is recommended:
Bettas: A Complete Pet Owner’s Manual
by Robert J. Goldstein, Ph.D.
The Guide to Owning Siamese Fighting Fish
by Gene Wolfsheimer
Websites:
www.ibcbettas.org
Shopping List
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1 to 5 gallon Bowl or tank
Zoo Med Betta H20 Conditioner
Zoo Med Micro Floating Betta Pellets
Zoo Med’s Aqua Accents – River Pebbles or Sand
Plants and decorations
Zoo Med Betta Bed Leaf Hammock
Zoo Med Bettatherm Heater
Zoo Med Floating Betta Log
Zoo Med Floating Betta Exercise Mirror
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ZOO Med Has a COMPreHensiVe arraY OF
PrOdUCts FOr tHe Care OF YOUr Betta.
BP-2 Betta
Pellets
BP-1 Betta Pellets
With Betta Feeding Wand
BP-5 Betta
Dial-A-Treat
BP-10 Betta H2O
Instant Betta Water
Conditioner
BH-10 Bettatherm
Mini Size Betta Bowl
Heater
Bettamatic
in action
BF-1 Bettamatic
Automatic Daily Betta Feeder
LOOK FOr tHese QUaLitY ZOO Med Betta
PrOdUCts at a Pet stOre near YOU!
BE-10 Floating Betta
Exercise Mirror
FA-50 Betta Log
BL-20 Betta Bed
Leaf Hammock
BL-10 Floating
Betta Log
Aqua Accents
Decorative Aquarium Substrate
BA-1, BA-2, BA-3, BA-4, BA-5, BA-6
ISBN 978-0-578-05913-6
Item# ZB-90
ZOO MED LABORATORIES, INC.
3650 Sacramento Dr.
San Luis Obispo, CA 93401
Phone: 805-542-9988
email: zoomed@zoomed.com
www.zoomed.com
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