BIR - Kiwabi
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BIR - Kiwabi
APRIL 2014 volume 17 issue 4 Doing business in the age of now By Bart Foreman A MONTHLY NEWSLETTER FOR EXECUTIVES IN THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY BIZ highlights 2 NAHA to honor Dwight Miller 4 Lafayette Jones’ Multicultural Report 5 ISSE forecasts busy year in beauty 6 IBS New York reflects strong industry 12 New marketing tools: Hair Construction 16 Conkle law firm specializes in beauty 18 KALLISTA offers special care for stylists 20 Marty Flaherty promoted to GM 28 Mark Cuban to keynote PBA breakfast 28 Mane St. Ricky Kenig debuts Kenig + Alcone VISIT US ONLINE bironline.com CHECK OUT BIR’s 2014 BIG! Show Calendar! This is your industry’s newsletter, and BIR welcomes your feedback! Mike Nave, editor 818-225-8353 | mike@bironline.com facebook.com/BeautyIndustryReport facebook.com/MikeNaveBIR by Mike Nave EDITOR O ne of my favorite things about the beauty industry is reinvention—from the makeovers that happen daily in tens of thousands of salons to the return of IBS New York as an important industry event to our industry friends who recreate their careers to focus on their true passions. For example, in this issue, you can learn how Ricky Kenig, who invented the beauty Mecca known as Ricky’s NYC, quit to create the new Kenig + Alcone, which is much more 2014. Linda Gillette Parodi re-invented herself from stylist to corporate exec to entrepreneur as the co-founder of Kallista. In fact, thanks to my own re-invention from distributor to consultant to publisher, you’re reading this issue of Beauty Industry Report. As we re-invent ourselves this year, we’d love to know what you think and how we can help you do your job better. Regards, W e are often asked what we mean by “The Age of NOW!” It’s not a trick question. We’ve been engaged in marketing for more than 40 years and have owned Group 3 Marketing for 25 years. With our history, you might consider us traditionalists. But we’re not and never have been. The Age of NOW! means LETTING GO of the past and embracing today. Not the shiny new toys technology has created, but how a multitude of forces has impacted your customers since the Great Recession in 2008. For us, the journey into NOW began in 2010, when we created a research study called “Beauty for the Ages,” which we presented at the Professional Beauty Association’s Symposium. We saw the transformation of how different cohort generations viewed their salon experiences and realized it is not just the younger generation that’s hip and NOW. We learned that many Baby Boomers are wired like their younger cohorts. The Age of NOW! requires brands and salons to shift their thinking, as it relates to how to do business in today’s complex marketplace and with today’s ever-changing consumer. The idea of business as usual is dead. To do business in the Age of NOW! requires being flexible, quick and relevant. That does not mean we grab every new shiny technology that comes our way. But it does mean selectively using the marketing tools that drive overall business results. Let’s focus… • We define marketing as what we do to influence the next sale. Waiting until the next marketing cycle is too late. Forget batch processing and mass mailings. To be relevant, you have to be NOW! • Forget loyalty and relationships. They are The Age of Now...cont. on p. 2 The Beauty Industry Report Visit bironline.com The Age of Now...from p. 1 overused and overrated marketing strategies. • Understand the two real business drivers are retention and growth. • The Age of NOW! Customers don’t want loyalty and relationship schemes—they want engagement. They want it NOW! They want honesty and transparency. They want timely and content-rich relevant information. And they want to be heard—that means it’s time for us as marketers to start listening. This is why we built a new data-driven marketing platform—an every-day marketing platform—because something is happening in your business every day. It uses TRIGGERS from each client's POS data to send the right message to the right guest, at the right time through the right channel. And it happens every day. It's a real game changer. The technology is in place. But, you have to let go of the traditional paths and try new ones to get closer to the majority of your customers, influence their buying behaviors and impact your sales every day. The Business of Beauty expects nothing less from us. ______________________________ Bart Foreman is president of Group 3 Marketing, a data and marketing driven agency serving all channels of the beauty industry for almost 20 years. The agency’s Every Day marketing platform is in more than 450 salons and beauty stores. For more information, reach Bart at 952-475-3269 or bforeman@group3marketing.com. Visit group3marketing.com. BIR invites you to become a Guest Columnist. For consideration, please send us your thoughts in about 475 words, including a one-paragraph author bio, along with your high-resolution headshot no smaller than 300 dpi at 5 x 7 inches to mike@bironline.com in a Word document. We will edit your column for style and space. 2 APRIL 2014 The hottest new beauty store in New York City comes from a familiar name and a longtime friend of BIR. Ricky Kenig, founder of the NYC beauty institution Ricky’s, quit the company that bears his name this past December and joined with Vincent Mallardi The makeup studio features a sleek design. Lash In A Box, London Brush Company and Sugar Pill Cosmetics. It’s also home to the most exclusive and in-demand professional hair care brands, including Kerastase, Obliphica Professional, Davines and Moroccanoil, as well as specialty lines from Ouidad and Miss Jessie’s, T3 and Twin Turbo tools, plus nail products from Essie to OPI. The staff is well-educated, offering suggestions and making sure clients leave with what they want—and perhaps what they didn’t even know existed. The store will host makeup and hair classes, workshops and special events throughout the year. Not just for consumers, the store attracts the top beauty professionals seeking specialty products, hard-to-find industry secrets and cult favorites. To deepen the partnership, Kenig + Alcone is introducing a Pro Alliance Program where the top beauty pros can utilize its space to host classes and events. “We’re very excited to do things most professional beauty stores haven't done before, such as our mega wall of plastic bins filled with specialty bobby pins, hair clips and assorted other secret tools known only to open a new beauty concept store called Kenig + Alcone. Ricky, whose specialty is all things hair, and Vincent, a NYC-based professional makeup distributor, are using their 60+ combined years of experience and love of beauty to create the ultimate beauty playground. The new store is located on Sixth Avenue at 14th Street. “Kenig + Alcone is the grown up version of what I began at 19 with Ricky’s,” says Ricky. Adds Vincent, “This incredible combination is going to make for one of the best beauty stores in New York City.” The store’s two floors—the first dedicated to hair and the second The store is well-stocked with all types of hair. to makeup—create a magnificent to the pros,” says Ricky. “Long term, we plan beauty lab stocked with the most innovative to be involved in all things hair, makeup and and coveted hair and makeup products on the market. The makeup studio has plenty of nails: fashion, television, magazines and backstage.” The duo plans to open more testers to excite and entice, and amazing shops both in and out of New York City. lighting to see true color and texture. Plus E-commerce will launch soon. Given Ricky’s there’s an in-store hair salon and makeup passion, creative drive and past successes, application station. BIR can’t wait to see what he does next! Kenig + Alcone stocks more than 70 Reach Ricky at info@kenigalcone.com, and brands—some on an exclusive basis, read the whole story at kenigalcone.com. including Sigma Brushes, Flutter Lashes, For more than a year, the Professional Beauty Association (PBA) and Independent Cosmetic Manufacturers and Distributors (ICMAD) have been collaborating with the Food & Drug Administration (FDA) to create much needed modernized federal regulations of the cosmetics industry. On March 6, the FDA issued an unforeseen public letter criticizing these organizations and their ongoing efforts. In response to the FDA letter, PBA and ICMAD offer the following statement: “We are disappointed with the FDA’s letter stating that they have precipitously decided to discontinue negotiations with the cosmetics industry regarding legislation to modernize national cosmetic legislation. Our industry organizations met in good faith for over a year with the FDA, and were diligently working to reach a framework, which we still hope to achieve, that would be the basis for a new legislative initiative,” said Pamela Jo Busiek, ICMAD president and CEO, and Steve Sleeper, PBA executive director, in a joint statement. The FDA (in its letter to the industry that was released on March 6) mischaracterized the cosmetics industry’s position and misleads the public regarding the basis for negotiations breaking down, citing issues of safety and limitation of the FDA’s enforcement authority. In response to these allegations, PBA and ICMAD stated that no one has a greater interest in the safety of its consumers than the cosmetics industry. The beauty industry believes a transparent beauty industry produces superior products that protect consumers and professionals. PBA and ICMAD sincerely hope that the FDA will reconsider its position and reopen this important dialogue. A more detailed response addressing specific points raised in the FDA’s letter will be available shortly. PBA and ICMAD support the statement made by their affiliated organization, the Personal Care Products Council, on March 6, 2014. Reach Myra Irizarry Reddy, PBA director of government affairs, at 800-468-2274 or myra@probeauty.org. ICMAD Board Member Craig Weiss, president of Consumer Product Testing, testified on March 25 during the FDA hearings on modernizing over-the-counter drugs. On behalf of ICMAD, he offered the following comments. While commending the FDA on its initiative to modernize and streamline the Monograph proceedings, Craig noted the importance of completing and finalizing open monographs. He strongly urged the FDA to provide clear guidance on the required safety and efficacy of data needed to facilitate the ingredient approval for new OTC drugs, as well as to maintain approval of new ingredients by therapeutic class, rather than adopting the review required for NDAs. He further urged the FDA to revisit the pending TEA applications and establish procedures to move these along more efficiently, stressing the importance of these products to consumers. Reach Pam Busiek, ICMAD president/CEO, at 800-3342623 or pbusiek@icmad.org. Visit icmad.org. The horses are out of the barn, as professional companies ready their e-commerce strategies as quickly as possible, following Beauty System Group’s launch of loxabeauty and the expected launch by the other major distributor shortly. Now, Sexy Hair has launched its e-commerce and digital platform on sexyhair.com. The site redesign offers easy navigation, detailed product descriptions, hair care education for both stylists and consumers, a page dedicated to styling videos and a new salon referral option at check out that awards a 15% commission to salons and stylists. “Sexy Hair takes pride in offering consumers and stylists innovative products that provide solutions,” said Jennifer Weiderman, vice president of marketing and education. “Launching commerce was a natural next step, as we now offer all of the Sexy Hair products at the convenience of one click. We will also showcase videos and tips on how to use our products and present the exciting things happening with the brand.” While it is easier than ever to access upto-the-minute beauty products and trends through digital and social media, many consumers and stylists can feel overwhelmed by the sheer volume of information, resulting in questionable hair care practices. Sexy Hair offers a stylish remedy through the new website and a series of public service announcements highlighting Style Disaster Days, or “SDDs” via youtube.com/sexyhairtv. The lighthearted spoofs rolled out on April 1 to spread awareness socially of Sexy Hair’s new e-commerce capabilities and dedication to hair care education. To celebrate the videos, Sexy Hair is releasing a limited-edition SDD Prevention Kit only on sexyhair.com. Additional resources and increased functionality will be added to the site over the course of the year including an expanded beauty blog, video styling lessons, a seasonal trend report and more. MINT replaces BRIC. In export trends, the BRIC countries (Brazil, Russia, India and China) have been targets for U.S. companies wishing to fill the high demand for U.S. goods. Today, the new hot countries for U.S. exports are the MINT countries—Mexico, Indonesia, Nigeria and Turkey. Congratulations to Sanek Neck Strips, which is celebrating its 90th anniversary “Sanek is a brand that barbers and stylists ask for by name,” says Dan Hnilicka, marketing manager for Graham Beauty. “We’re proud to be part of a brand that is such a mainstay in the beauty industry, and we take equal pride in the fact that the product always has been—and is still—made in the USA.” Reach Dan at 920-490-5303 or dhnilicka@littlerapids.com. Visit littlerapids.com. News continued on page 4 APRIL 2014 3 The Beauty Industry Report Visit bironline.com News continued from page 3 Dwight Miller, internationally acclaimed World Master hair designer, educator, artistic director and salon owner, will receive the 2014 Lifetime Achievement Award during the North American Hairstyling Awards (NAHA). The award is NAHA’s highest honor, recognizing exceptional contributions to the advancement of the hair and beauty industry and is limited to licensed salon professionals. Dwight is also a past NAHA Dwight Miller Artistic Director of the Year winner. Honorably discharged from the Marine Corps in 1964, Dwight chose a career in professional beauty. Now celebrating 50 years in hair, he has been at the root of every major change in hair fashion and technique, such as the Sculpture Pin Curl of Marinello-Comer in Hollywood to his stack perm in the ’70s, to many trends throughout the ’80s, ’90s and the present. Today, as owner of Salon Santa Fe in Santa Fe, NM, and co-founder of VLVT Salon/ Academies, Dwight encourages stylists to do what they love and to keep bringing their creativity to life. Dwight also participates in charitable initiatives, spearheading Boston Children’s Hospital ‘HAIRraising’ fundraiser and has raised more than $200,000 within the salon/hair styling community. His lifelong hard work, spirit and generosity have solidified him as an icon in the professional beauty industry. Dwight will be honored during the NAHA Awards Ceremony on July 13 in Las Vegas as part of NAHA’s 25th Anniversary Celebration. Past recipients include Michael O’Rourke (2011), Beth Minardi (2010), Vivienne Mackinder (2009), Martin Parsons (2008), Yosh Toya (2007), Michael Gordon (2006), Sam Brocato (2005), Horst Rechelbacher (2004) and Robert Lobetta (2003). For more information, visit probeauty.org/naha. Congratulations to NovaLash, Inc., which is celebrating its 10th anniversary. When she started the company, CEO Sophy Merszei couldn’t imagine how industry-altering NovaLash would become. “I wanted to bring back the glamour and femininity of ’50s and ’60s false eyelashes in a way that would not scare women,” the biologist and cosmetic chemist says. The journey was not easy. “For our first five years, the public was just not ready for false lashes,” Sophie reminisces. “We knew they were the next big trend in beauty, but educating consumers and the industry about the health and safety of the service took many a sleepless night.” To do that, Sophy developed product safety testing, added a physician-developed lash application course and a beauty school textbook for eyelash extensions. Today, the global distributor of eyelash extension products has expanded to more Sophy Merszei than 40 countries. Most importantly to Sophy, NovaLash has brought profitable, rewarding careers to thousands of professionals, as more women than ever before are opening stand-alone lash salons. To help them, the NovaLash Signature Studios program provides training and licensing, business support and reduced prices on NovaLash’s premium products. In 2007, the company won the ICMAD award for cosmetic innovation of the year. In 2010, Sophy was named National Association of Professional Women’s VIP Woman of the Year. Says Sophy, “Before I started NovaLash, the focus was only on hair, skin and nails. Ten years later, when I walk down the aisles of a beauty trade show and see all the booths dedicated to lash products, I feel like I made a difference in the history of fashion and beauty.” Reach Sophy at 866-430-1261 or sophym@gmail.com. Visit novalash.com. Congratulations to the Independent Cosmetics Manufacturers and Distributors (ICMAD) on its 40th anniversary of representing independent manufacturers and distributors in order to encourage small business to remain a viable segment of the cosmetics, skin care and fragrance industry. Entrepreneurs from seven small companies created ICMAD in 1974 to ensure that regulators and legislators proposing new bills or rules for the beauty industry consider their effect on small business and the people who build them. Forty years ago, those seven pioneers understood the importance of small business as the engine of both jobs and innovation. The founders of ICMAD also expected the organization to promote “the highest standards of safety and ethics in the manufacture and distribution of cosmetics and allied products and services.” Forty years later, ICMAD continues to represent, advocate and educate its 700 member companies. “Looking forward, ICMAD will continue to find ways to help our members by representing, educating and fostering the growth and profitability of entrepreneurial companies in the cosmetic and personal care industries worldwide,” stated Pam Busiek, ICMAD president/CEO. To learn more about ICMAD’s benefits for members, reach Pam at 800-334-2623 or pbusiek@icmad.org. Visit icmad.org. Stéphane Legros, owner of Cheveux le Salon, educator and editorial stylist, is the newest member of the Sam Villa ArTeam. He has an effective way of looking at collections/runways and markets in the United States, Canada and Europe, as well as a talent for spotting nuances and adapting them to techniques and artistry to create new and fresh results. Reach Lya Navarra, sales promotion manager, at lya@samvilla.com. Visit samvilla.com. News continued on page 21 4 APRIL 2014 The Multicultural Report F ashion Fair Cosmetics, the world's largest black-owned cosmetics company, has a new president, Amy S. Hilliard. She will be responsible for leading the company's marketing, sales, operations and retail partnerships. Amy has experience in marketing, business development, general management, strategic marketing, new product development, advertising, public relations, acquisitions, manufacturing and retail merchandising. Prior to joining Fashion Fair, she served as the CEO, president and founder of The Comfort Cake Company, LLC and The Hilliard Group, Inc. Amy has also held senior leadership roles at L'Oréal for the Soft Sheen Products division, Burrell Communications Group, The Pillsbury Company and The Gillette Company. She has a Master of Business Administration from Harvard Business School and a Bachelor of Science from Howard University. She serves on the Board of Trustees at Howard University. SoftSheen-Carson Magic Shave, a line of African-American men's shaving and grooming products, has teamed up with actor Lance Gross of Tyler Perry's latest big screen hit "Temptation", and NBC television's upcoming series "Crisis,” to launch the "Magic Shave With A Purpose" campaign. Lance abstained from shaving in order to raise awareness and support for the Steve and Marjorie Harvey Foundation. Throughout the Shave With A Purpose campaign, 5% from every purchase was donated to the Foundation, which is dedicated to ensuring that the needs of children are met through support of community-based organizations that foster excellence in the areas of health, education and social well-being within urban and ethnically diverse communities. During the campaign, Lance shared his journey on social media, growing out his beard and posting weekly pictures of his progress. Lance's friends and fans were encouraged to join the movement and shared photos growing out their beards for charity or an important cause. To join the conversation, go to facebook.com/Magic or Twitter using the hashtag #shavewit. Whole Foods is building a new store in Chicago's Black Englewood neighborhood. It is the most recent move by a major grocer to tap by Lafayette Jones into the best opportunity for expansion: underserved black communities. The growing competition between Walmart, Walgreens and now Whole Foods to go into these socalled shopping deserts makes perfect sense to those who have seen the research. According to Target Market News’ 2013 report, "The Buying Power of Black America," black households have long been bigger spenders than white consumers. Whole Foods recently opened a 21,000 square-foot store in Detroit, which co-CEO Walter Robb said was exceeding all expectations. Bestselling author Isabel Valdés believes wholeheartedly in the power of in-culture and share-of-heart marketing. Her book, Hispanic Customers for Life: A Fresh Look at Acculturation, explores the present Hispanic generational crossover, providing insights, data and tools to manage the generational and acculturation differences among U.S. Hispanics, immigrants and their U.S. born offspring. The book shows how the U.S. Hispanic market is shifting from a majority of customers who are unacculturated to a majority who were born in the United States and are melding the two cultures together in ways that make them an unprecedented marketing challenge. The Hispanic market is experiencing its most important socio-demographic and cultural shift since its emergence as a powerful and distinct U.S. market segment. Isabel, a marketing expert, is recognized as the creator of the “In-culture” marketing approach. A lecturer and public speaker, she has been studying and writing about the Hispanic market for more than 20 years. Her earlier books, Marketing to American Latinos, A Guide to the In-Culture Approach, Parts I and II, are classics used in many universities around the country and on the bookshelves of most multicultural marketers. The growing segment of the United State-born Latinos poses unique business, marketing and communications challenges and opportunities. Isabel describes how to target them successfully for marketers of all kinds of products and services. She notes that there are two basic marketing platforms for Hispanics born in the United States: The young “millennial Latinos”, the second- generation youth market, children, teens and young adults born to foreign-born parents. The second group includes “traditional Latinos”— those born to Latino families that have been U.S. citizens for two or more generations. By 2016, it will be a different Hispanic market altogether, as the vast majority of Hispanics ages 20 to 29 will have been born in the United States. These Hispanic “twentysomethings” will constitute a significant market segment of people well-acquainted with U.S. culture. However, as Isabel emphasizes, they are, “often born to at least one parent who was foreign born,” thus, straddling two cultures. In an important departure from the usual ways of viewing this market, Isabel segments it by age and generation, highlighting the waves of acculturation per segment, simplifying a complex marketing landscape by helping marketers understand how different levels of acculturation change Hispanic consumer expectations and hence their responses to marketing messages. Miss Jessie’s Quick Curls weightless spiraling cream is a no-fuss lightweight conditioning styler that activates a quick, lightweight, frizz-free, smooth curl. The freshly scented formula is blended with the essence of ginger flower and lime fruit. You can also use it for finger-styling relaxed hair and as a rescue remedy for botched, over-processed hair (8 oz./SRP $32.00). Visit missjessies.com. Isabella’s Own Sulfate Free Shampoo is formulated to cleanse natural hair without the harsh effects of sulfates, to prevent the loss of natural oils from the hair shaft and scalp. The product contains grape seed extract and astringents infused with fatty acids to leave the hair with a soft, silky texture, as it combats dryness (32 oz./SRP $59.95). Visit bronnerbros.com. Lafayette Jones is CEO of SMSi-Urban Call Marketing, a promotion and marketing company, and publisher of Urban Call custom publications. Contact him to share your multicultural news with Beauty Industry Report at 336-759-7477 or president@smsi-net.com and visit smsiurbancallmarketing.com. APRIL 2014 5 The Beauty Industry Report Visit bironline.com ISSE forecasts busy year in beauty concept through submission. The NAHA Stage headliners included Nick Arrojo; Faatemah Ampey and her “Retro Evolution!;” Kaz Amor, Andrew and Sky Fu, who presented “Your Portfolio to NAHA;” Main Entrance Artists Berry Bachen and DJ Riggs presenting “Ahead of the Trend;” Martin Parsons, who showed long hair styling; Maryl Velbeck, who presented “Practical Magic;” Palma N’Sheluvitz, who featured “Designing Hair with Color for NAHA;” The Teals (Ryan and DeannaLyn), who shared their “Mastery Collection;” and Steve Elias, who presented the “2014 NAHA Collection.” Lisa Yamasaki created an oceanic fantasy on the Main Stage. T improvements helped get attendees onto the he 2014 salon trade show circuit for show floor promptly and efficiently each day. licensed beauty pros kicked off with the With education as a top draw, ISSE Long annual International Salon and Spa Expo Beach featured more than 150 complimentary (ISSE), produced by the Professional Beauty learning sessions, covering all aspects of hair, Association (PBA), at the Long Beach nails, makeup, skin care and wellness. Convention Center. This legacy show has Center stage headliners included Mike Karg evolved from a hair event into a complete creator of Mike Karg DryhairCut; Lisa beauty bonanza for professional hair, nails, Yamasaki, who featured the Ocean & Tokyo cosmetics, esthetics, wellness, massage and Collection; Martin Parsons and his Magic of advanced education. Long Hair; the Raul Martez Team, which PBA streamlined the check-in process this presented its new collection, “TheCompass;” year, making for easier and faster entry for the the Sassoon Academy’s Spring Summer 40,000 attendees. New and improved Collection and Theodore Leaf, who presented attendee check-in processes, including online “How to be Your Own ticket activation and a PBA YouTube Sensation.” members-only check-in The North American line, sped up the entry Hairstyling Awards process and eliminated the (NAHA) Stage featured long lines and wait times past NAHA winners and of years past. Regular multi-category finalists in posts on social media an intimate setting where platforms also helped attendees learned up guide and direct attendees close and personal how to the correct check-in to take a winning and credential check PBA’s Toni Davis congratulates Aveda on their NAHA collection from locations. These award for Best Island Booth. 6 APRIL 2014 Cailyn Cosmetics won first place for Best Linear Booth. Awards for top booths spark competition Many companies launched new and/or expanded booths at the 2014 ISSE. From layout and signage updates to complete makeovers, firms invested in their images. To recognized their efforts, ISSE Long Beach awarded top honors for booths in several categories. Booths were judged on corporate branding, product presentation, exhibit personnel and booth design. Winning booths at ISSE Long Beach 2014 included: • Best Island/Peninsula Booth: Neuma (first place), Herbalosophy (second place), Earthly Body/Marrakesh (third place). • Best Island Booth: Aveda (first place), Brazilian Blowout (second place), Moroccanoil (third place). • Best Linear Booth: Cailyn Cosmetics (first place), It Factor (second place), Pedi Princess (third place). Neuma won best island/peninsula booth. PBA Beauty Bar offers deluxe samples In 2014, PBA introduced the PBA Beauty Bar. This new program allowed attendees to handselect five deluxe product samples from select ISSE exhibitors in exchange for a donation to the PBA Disaster Relief Fund. Participating exhibitors included Aveda, OPI, Orly, Repêchage, Rusk and PBA. In its debut year, this new beauty initiative raised approximately $4,000 for the PBA Disaster Relief Fund, which was founded in 1955 to provide financial support to salon professionals following the devastation of a natural disaster. Monies The new Beauty Bar let attendees sample products in exchange for a donation to the PBA’s Disaster Relief Fund. allocated through the Fund are intended to help professionals meet immediate financial needs, such as purchasing food and clothing and paying bills. The PBA Beauty Bar is PBA’s newest charitable program in its continued effort to give back to the professional beauty industry. High energy, new products Beauty Industry Report (BIR) spent two and a half days on the show floor to bring you the news and the newest products. Here’s an overview. Daniela Sacchi, owner/president of Elin Bianco, has moved her company’s “With the extensions, we saw a need for a headquarters from Canada to Beverly Hills. She line that does it all—offers different application told BIR, “We chose Los Angeles as our new home base because of the vast market potential methods and longer lengths at an affordable price,” explained Jackie. and opportunities to expand our business.” The Heatbrush Pro is an all-in-one, ceramic The Elin Bianco hair care line features six round brush that heats up to natural essential oils. dry, brush, straighten and curl Designed to repair dry, hair. Great for in-salon styling damaged, frizzy hair, it or retailing, the brush also consists of five products. adds volume, shine and They include Treatment condition (SRP $165.00). Mask (500 ml/SRP $60.00), The Emily mannequin is a Treatment Serum (115 ml/ more affordably-priced SRP $56.00); Treatment version of the best-selling Shampoo (300 ml/SRP Emma mannequin. What stays $36.00), Treatment the same with Emily is Emma’s Conditioner (300 ml/SRP quality virgin European hair $36.00) and Hair Perfume and natural hair growth (55 ml/SRP $54.00). Daniela shared, “We BIR’s Mike Nave checks out new pattern, making her ideal for emphasize the restorative and Hair Perfume from Elin Bianco. color classes! (list $39.99). After 30-plus years, HairArt repairing qualities of our brand, revealed a new logo that plays off of the particularly the use of six essential natural oils original design in an updated color and fresh in our Treatment Mask and Treatment Serum. font. Said Jackie “We wanted our new look and We chose a soft, clean feminine fragrance and branding to reflect our groundbreaking elegant bottles and packaging to complete the technology. The logo is a proud representation luxurious nature of our brand.” of that and works well with the modern look of Daniela added, “We currently are distributing Invisi-Tab and House of European Hair. The our products either ourselves directly to salons, booth reinforces our stance of bringing new through distributors and to upscale beauty technologies to the professional salon arena.” stores. We have just launched on the West Reach Erika Rodriguez, sales rep, at Coast, so we are looking to follow a similar erika@hairartproducts.com. Visit model, but our goal is to focus on using hairartproducts.com. distributors. I invite distributors who are seeking Halo Couture Extensions introduced The something new, especially products that can Fall, a top piece that securely clips to the top help repair dry, damaged, frizzy, hair, to contact of the head to give instant height, volume, me.” Reach Daniela at daniela@elinbianco.com. length and coverage. It helps to conceal roots, Visit elinbianco.com. grays or thinning hair. The piece is a nonAt the HairArt exhibit, Jackie Yu, president damaging hair extension that can blend within a and founder, debuted the company’s new logo woman’s natural hair rather than wearing a full and branding. He also showed a full line of wig. It is easy to apply and European hair extensions, the new HairArt comfortable. Each Fall is #H3000 HeatBrush Pro and the new Emily 100% Remy human hair, mannequin, a more affordable version of the completely hand-tied firm’s best-selling Emma mannequin. and a very high The HairArt Extension System has been quality. The Fall is upgraded to put quality and variety at stylists’ a salon exclusive fingertips. They feature 100% premium Remy product and hair in five different application methods (list sold in $14.00 to $300.00). professional settings only (SRP $540.00). Contact Brent HairArt launched the HeatBrush Pro. The Fall by Halo Couture. Owens, ISSE cont. on page 8 APRIL 2014 7 The Beauty Industry Report Visit bironline.com ISSE Long Beach cont. from page 7 president, at brent@halocouture.com. Visit halocouture.com. Root cover up products are hotter than ever. At the show, Emi Kamiya, U..S brand manager, introduced Root Vanish by Kazumi, a gel-based formula that instantly hides roots and grays with an easy, mess-free swipe of the click pump brush applicator. Once dry, the non-permanent, all-natural colorant leaves a radiant finish that is soft to the touch and does not transfer—even in high humidity or sweat. Created in Japan and color designed in Beverly Hills, the product leaves no residue, is fragrance-free and is blended with 22 Asian botanicals to treat and hydrate the hair and scalp. The brush applicator holds 100 pumps— approximately 40 to 60 applications. Colorists can also color on top of it. Emi told BIR, “Root Vanish is available on amazon.com; however, the company is looking into alternative distribution methods following our success at ISSE.” New Root Vanish by Kazumi She added, “Kiwabi, Inc. will hides roots and grays. be launching an at-home grays and roots camouflaging treatment line under the Root Vanish brand in late Q2 of 2014. The color will last 2 to 3 weeks.” (SRP $48.00). Reach Emi at salesusa@kiwabi.com. Visit kiwabi.com. YouVeeShield, LLC launched a disposable, inexpensive, protective shield that blocks 99.9% of the UV light emitted during the curing of gel manicures and pedicures. The shields are dispensed from a tissue-like box, making it easy to access for the nail technician. The nominal cost can easily be incorporated into the price of the manicure, especially for customers who have a photosensitivity or do not want any UV exposure. Shields are sold in boxes of 20 (list $40.95) and 80 (list $90.95). For more information, reach Renee Albera, president, at 650-600-8124 or youveeshield@gmail.com. Visit youveeshield.com. At Johnny B. Haircare, Socrates Real, project manager, featured the brand’s new Johnny B. Talc. He said, “Barber's talc is one of the most common items used in barber 8 APRIL 2014 segment featuring the Whisper, Orbit and shops/hair salons. Because of this, Shattered Collection. Reach Scruples' coour customers asked us to add a president and director of marketing/ talcum powder to our product line.” advertising, Tracy Liguori, at 800-457-0016 or Johnny B. Talc is used to hide tracy@scrupleshaircare.com. Visit nicks and blemishes after shaving, to scrupleshaircare.com. soak up excess moisture and to After marketing hair extensions minimize skin chafing. It is lightly for 8 years, Chris Volek’s scented with an Aqua di Parma Dreamcatchers International fragrance (7 oz./SRP $20.00). debuted its hair care line, which is Reach Socrates at 323-201-6280 formulated to moisturize hair or sreal@johnnybhaircare.com. Johnny B. launched Talc. extensions. The line includes Visit johnnybhaircare.com. Shampoo (10 oz./SRP $15.00), which leaves LaVaque Professional showed an the hair almost conditioned once rinsed, an interesting manicure aid. Juliana Roy, Intense Conditioner (10 oz./SRP $15.00) that managing sales rep for the brand, told BIR, leaves the hair soft and easy to manage, a “Our Thumb Palette features a rectangular stainless steel plate connected to an adjustable ring, making it a portable, handsfree color palette that’s easy to clean and makes it easy to create custom colors, and to mix pigments and glitters. Simply put a little nail color or pigment onto the palette, and you’ll have all the colors you need for your client at your fingertip.” The patent-pending Thumb Palette is available with Mini Spatula with spoon and Full Spatula with spoon as the FingerNailFixer Combo (combination of all 3 items) (list Dreamcatcher’s Chris Volek shows BIR’s Mike Nave his new extension care line. $12.00). The Thumb Palette is being launched for distributors, and private labeling is also Leave-In Treatment (SRP $17.00) and available. Reach Juliana at 888-997-5825 or Conditioning Oil (SRP $17.00). Products are sales@lavaqueprofessional.com. Visit paraben- and sulfate-free. The company offers lavaqueprofessional.com. a free liter with every case of shampoo and conditioner and a free 5-oz. with the Leave-In Treatment and Conditioning Oil. At ISSE, the company offered a 4-pack sample. Reach Chris at chris@dreamcatchers.com. Visit dreamcatchers.com. LaVaque’s Thumb Palette is a portable, hands-free color palette. Scruples debuted a new booth, the reimagined Pearl Classic Collection and new cuts, color and styles. Scruples director of field education and the Scruples Academy Amie Breckenridge Goltz, Design Team member Katie Nielsen and Artist Chris Venesky brought cutting, color and styling techniques to life from the new Scruples collections. Scruples International creative consultant Charlie Price showed classic up styling and an exciting three-party runway EstheticsAmerica & Wellness expands The EstheticsAmerica & Wellness Pavilion, continued to grow in 2014, providing a dedicated environment for skin care, cosmetics, massage, wellness and the newest treatments and education. CIDESCO Section USA education was again offered and continues to be a desirable option for many esthetic professionals looking to continue their education. PBA aims to continue the growth of the Pavilion for the 2015 show. Esthetics America & Wellness had 80 exhibitors devoted primarily to spa, skin and cosmetics. Eyelash products, including strip and individual false eyelashes, eyelash conditioners and growth products, dominated this area. Exhibiting these types of products were Ardell, Bella Lash Extensions, Evalash, Grande LashMD, JB Lashes, Longmi Lashes, Love My Lash, Minky’s Extend Your Lash, MD Lashes, More Lash, Number 1 Eyelash, Nutraluxe Lash, Rapidlash, Revitalash and Wink. MD Lashes/MIA Lashes debuted Real MINK Fur Strip Lashes, which feature lighter and softer hairs than regular false lashes to create a more natural look. They’re available in four styles, can be reused several times with proper care and come in a beautiful box to keep them safe (SRP $55.00). Visit mdlashes.com. Wink used ISSE to launch its first product— Wink All-Natural Eyelash and Eyebrow Growth Enhancer. Over time, lashes and brows thin. Wink works by stimulating dormant lash BIR’s Mike Nave with Jason Freeman, founder/CEO of Bio Creative Labs. and brow follicles to grow, while conditioning and strengthening the active follicles. This means Wink gives you more lashes and more brows, rather than just increasing the length of existing ones (though it does that too, increasing the length by 10 to 20% on average). The product is hypoallergenic and safe for use on the top and bottom lash lines, as well as brows. It is great for mature clients who want the lush look of full lashes and brows without the side effects or high price tag of other treatments (3-month supply/SRP $39.00.) Interestingly, the company was founded by two MIT students, who were frustrated with the products on the market. “We put our heads together and set out to create the product we were seeking,” said Megan Cox, CEO/founder. “Now, we are dedicated to solving women’s toughest beauty problems with proven science.” Sassoon ‘Originals’ gather for Mash-Up On Sunday after the show closed, BIR stopped by A MASH-UP Sassoon Reunion to catch up with some of the Vidal Sassoon “originals,” who were in London in the early ’60s with Vidal and took part in the British invasion of America. The evening was filled with stories. Christopher Brooker, Sassoon’s original Beverly Sassoon, Tony international Beckerman, Eden Sassoon. artistic director, flew in from France to share how it all began and what defined the craft of haircutting that made Vidal Sassoon a global revolution. “We need to keep this alive,” Brooker said. “We all share the same dream.” The group paid tribute to the late Roger Thompson, also an international artistic director, who was the first to lead the team of British crimpers that Mark Hayes defined the Sassoon style of geometric cutting in the early ’60s. Also acknowledged was the late Robert Edele, who came to the United States with Tony Beckerman to build the Vidal Sassoon Cosmetology Centre and Academy in San Francisco in the early ’70s. It became the pipeline for Sassoon stylists who created the wave of Sonya Dove, Teri Donnelly, Dwight Miller, Charlet Pelissier. American trained hairdressers cutting hair the Sassoon way. Mark Hayes, the current Vidal Sassoon international artistic director, talked about when he was a Junior at the London salon. “Vidal came in the back room at the salon and sat down to talk with the Juniors,” Hayes recalled. “He said, ‘Now I can talk to the real workers.’” At that moment, Fernando Romero, Sally and Henry Abell, Angus Mitchell, he realized he Alan Bush, Jet Rhys, was working Christopher Brooker, Kenny Berk, David McCann, Graham for an Breckwell. extraordinary man—not just a company. Also at the event was Beverly Sassoon, the woman who was beside Vidal as he built his hairdressing empire, along with Vidal’s daughter Eden Sassoon. Beverly said, “I feel a revived energy for this beloved industry. All of you were a part of the mosaic that creates Vidal’s legacy.” Teri Donnelly, one of the first graduates from the Vidal Sassoon School and Academy in San Francisco in 1974, recalled the impression of such fantastic talent from her beginning years Christopher Brooker that inspired her long, rewarding career in teaching. She said, “So many of us have trained and changed our industry through the vision and passion of Vidal Sassoon.” “Tonight is about keeping the dream alive, the mind set and most of all the standards that made us all great,” said Tony, who started the gathering with the notion of getting some of the old gang together for a drink. Then, the whole idea exploded. Tony produced the event with cosponsors Jim and Cheryl Markham, owners of ColorProof Evolved Color Care; Bangstyle.com, an online image community; and Atar Gold, a natural fragrance. For MASH-UP—London, the group will return to the city where the Sassoon revolution started on October 11 during Salon International 2014. Visit themash-up.net. ISSE cont. on page 10 APRIL 2014 9 ISSE Long Beach cont. from page 9 left top: Martin Parsons works his styling magic. Top center: George Huerta, co-founder of KollagenX, with BIR’s Mike Nave. Mike with Kellie and Greg Serrault, founders/owners of Ageless Beauty. bottom right: Mike (center) with Moroccanoil’s Jay Elarar, director of sales North America, and Safir Shnayderman, vice president/sales, North America. bottom center: Jennifer Matuga, Repechage’s West Coast director of education, with Mike. winknaturalcosmetics.com, through direct mail She told BIR, “We created the product for catalogs and at several salons throughout the our own use through our own research. We United States. The product has spread like wild started this company with our own (meager) fire through word of mouth. The product has savings—literally the savings bonds we saved the margins to sell through distribution, so if from childhood—and just launched in August you’re looking for this type of product, give 2013. From August through December 2013, we them a call right away. Plus, Megan graduates acquired more than 7,000 happy customers from her undergraduate program in June, so with $0 marketing budget. This product has give her a call to congratulate her. Reach spread like crazy because it actually Megan at megan@winknaturalcosmetics.com. works. Miguel and I (the two Visit winknaturalcosmetics.com founders) are dedicated to providing At Repechage, Lydia Sarfati, CEO/ extreme customer service to both our founder, told BIR, “We featured the individual customers and salons. We Repêchage Lamina Lift Mask. This thin layer are looking to expand this mask provides a fuss-free approach to skin company and product line care, and serves as the rapidly. In fact, we have perfect complement to created our second salon and spa services. It is product—a 2-in-1 brightening also a beautiful and firming eye cream, formulated around powerful Wink natural lash and brow growth accompaniment to clinical enhancer was created by two MIT services, such as postgold peptides.” Currently, the products are students. Their next product will chemical peels, debut shortly. microdermabrasion, laser available online at 10 APRIL 2014 and waxing. Made with an organic blend of Eco Cert seaweeds, orange water, aloe vera and natural botanicals, the Lamina Lift Mask provides instant soothing, cooling, and moisturizing effects. It makes the perfect service upgrade!” She stated, “There are some professional beauty centers that are seeing up to 30,000 clients annually, but only 2,500 of those customers are venturing into their skin care services. We created the Repêchage Lamina Lift Mask as an introduction to skin care. It’s also perfect for massage clients and for men in salons or barber shops. For clients waiting at the shampoo bowl, just apply the mask and leave on for 5 to 20 minutes for instant rejuvenation, (1 package contains 50 masks/list $100.00). Visit repechage.com At Nutra Luxe MD, president and founder Peter Von Berg introduced the Nutra Luxe MD Laser Hair Restoration device, a laser designed to treat alopecia areata, a hair thinning and hair loss condition in men and women. The unit consists of 300 Cold Level Laser Diodes in combination with 225 Red Light LED, divided into five Laser panels that are mounted on a movable stand for easy placement and use in a salon or hair clinic environment. The system comes with a Hair Scalp scope with tablet to analyze conditions and record treatment progress, as well as a set of Intensive Hair Treatment solutions that enhance the results of the Hair Laser treatments. The complete system is available for a monthly lease of $275.00 for a 24-month term. Contact Peter at 239-561-9699 or visit nutraluxemed.com. Competitions continue to grow For the first time, ISSE hosted the Major League Barber’s Hot Hands Barber Brawl competitions. ISSE Long Beach competitions kicked off with the Barber Brawl. Categories included Original Tag Team–Design and Color; Conservative—Basic Haircut; Fastest Barber in the World—Bald Fade; and Shear Crazy—No Machines, Just Shears. Winners received an array of tools and products to enhance their barbering careers. For a list of winners, visit probeauty.org/competitions/isselb/. Continuing the success from 2013, ISSE Long Beach brought back its Hairstyling Competitions in 2014. Open to students and licensed professionals, the hair competitions allowed individuals to show off their skills and win cash and career prestige. For a list of all of the winners, visit probeauty.org/competitions/isselb/. Scholarships continue the learning Beauty education benefited from generous donations at this year’s ISSE. PBA’s Sally Beauty Scholarship Fund received a $10,000 check presented by Jan Roberts, director of corporate communications for Sally Beauty. In addition, scholarships totaling $18,000 were presented, including 14 $1,000 scholarships awarded to high school graduates with the desire to enter the cosmetology profession. Eight $500 scholarships were awarded to current PBA Beauty Professional/NCA members for continuing education in the cosmetology field. More than 300 applications were received. Steve Sleeper, PBA executive director; Keola Ragudo, Sally Beauty Scholarship winner; Jan Roberts, Sally Beauty Supply director of corporate communications; Aerica Pena, Sally Beauty Scholarship winner; and Scott Buchanan, PBA Board Of Directors chair. scholarships will be awarded to high school graduates with the desire to enter the cosmetology profession. Six $500 scholarships will also be awarded to current PBA Beauty Professional/NCA section members for continuing education in the cosmetology field, such as at an accredited advanced academy or for attending education/training at industry shows. Visit probeauty.org/scholarships, sallybeauty.com or call 800-468-2274 From left: Steve Sleeper, PBA executive director; Andrea Yocky, Minerva Beauty Cosmetology Scholarship winner; Robert J. Maconi, vice president of enterprise sales for Millennium Systems International; and Scott Buchanan, PBA Board Of Directors chair. “Sally Beauty is proud to have supported PBA for the past 22 years by providing more than $200,000 in scholarships for cosmetologists,” said Jan. Applications for the 2015 PBA Sally Beauty Scholarships are now available. The deadline for entry is November 14, 2014, and the scholarships will be awarded at the 2015 ISSE Long Beach. Seven $1,000 The 2013 Minerva Beauty Cosmetology Scholarship winners were also honored at ISSE. In 2013, Minerva Beauty awarded five $1,000 scholarships to students currently enrolled in an accredited cosmetology program. These winners were also honored at the scholarship presentation by Bob Maconi, vice president of enterprise sales from Millennium Software, on behalf of Minerva Beauty. Learn more about scholarship opportunities through PBA at http://probeauty.org/scholarships/ development, after the show. He summed it up like this: “ISSE numbers stayed strong this year, and at the end of the day, most exhibitors were happy with the buying professionals. However, there is always room for improvement, and in 2015, we are looking to up the game. Stay tuned.” To reserve space for the 2015 show before it’s too late, reach Eric at 800-468-2274, ext. 3431, or eric@probeauty.org. Visit probeauty.org. Next year’s ISSE returns to the Long Beach Convention Center on January 24–26, 2015. For more information and to exhibit or attend, visit probeauty.org/isse. The winners of the barbering competitions celebrate their victory. The NailPro Nail Competitions, sponsored by NailPro Magazine, featured an array of new and seasoned entrants. Winners were awarded cash and/or prizes. BIR caught up with Eric Horn, PBA’s associate executive director/business APRIL 2014 11 The Beauty Industry Report Visit bironline.com IBS New York reflects vibrant beauty industry By Mike Nave T he International Beauty Show New York (IBSNY), presented by American Salon magazine and owned by Questex Media Group, drew almost 63,000 passionate and energetic beauty professionals looking to advance their skills, see the newest products and mingle with some of the top talent in the industry. Staged at the Jacob Javits Center in New York City, the show featured about 500 exhibitors, including top companies in professional hair care, nail care, tools, furniture, apparel and business technology. “We are thrilled with the Celebrity stylist and NYC salon owner Ted Gibson brought his turnout, energy and overall creativity to the Main Stage. vibe experienced at IBSNY this Hair, Arrojo and Vidal Sassoon Academy. year,” says Liza Wylie, vice president, events for This year’s Main Stage performances the Questex Media Beauty and Spa group. “Our showcased some of the best talent in the strong attendance led to record sales for the industry, including Ted Gibson, Nick Arrojo, exhibitors, and we were thrilled to welcome Sam Villa, Kelly Cardenas, Martin Parsons, back influential companies like Redken 5th Lisa Yamasaki, James Harris, The Sassoon Avenue and Farouk Systems to the show. The Academy team and more! sign up by exhibitors for our 2015 show was our In addition, more than 100 inspiring classes strongest yet, for both IBS and the for professionals ranged from hair styling and International Esthetics, Cosmetics & Spa color correction, to nail design, to makeup Conference (IECSC). We are proud to produce events in one of the greatest cities in the world.” application to beauty basics. Also available were valuable business classes, helping professionals Added Dana Lupton, vice president, increase their bottom lines through retail, client International Beauty Shows/Questex Media retention and social media. New Master Classes Group, “IBS New York 2014 was a success for with industry greats like Vivienne Mackinder many exhibitors that have been a part of the rounded out the offerings. Educational show for the last several years. 2014 brought in highlights included: some fresh faces with a higher attendance rate • Celebrity stylist Ted Gibson revealed his and new retailers and distributors. The overall techniques and beauty philosophy. flow of the show was busier than 2013 and sales • YouTube sensation Kandee Johnson were up.” Reach Dana at 212-895-8237 or educated on HD makeup techniques to be used dlupton@questex.com. Visit questex.com. on the bride and general client. In addition to the return of Redken and • Daughter of natural-hair pioneer Tulani Farouk, the Pibbs family featured its Pibbs, Kinard, Sakeenah Nzingha Kinard educated on Turbo Power, Parlux and La Brasiliana brands. Also exhibiting were Agadir, Andis, Amika, Alfa the use of non-chemical hair products. • CND’s Lynn Cote provided insight into the Parf/Pier Marco Group, Beauty & Pin Ups, Vinylux Open Road Spring 2014 and CND Conair brands, CND, Croc Tools, Shellac product lines. Herbalosophy, Obliphica Professional, Young • Nick Arrojo revealed his pioneering scissor Nails, Tweezerman & Alessandro, Rock Your 12 APRIL 2014 and razor cutting techniques for creating customized shapes and textures. • Barber Mario Tennyu featured clipper cutting and fade techniques. • Emmy Award winning makeup artist Eve Pearl taught professional techniques ideal for HD cameras. • Master nail educator Jaime Schrabeck shared her waterless spa pedicure technique and massage techniques for the nail professional. • Jace Levine from MoPro showed owners and managers how to create the most optimized digital presence for salons. Hairbrained Video Awards The first annual Hairbrained Video Awards party took place in conjunction with IBSNY. The awards honored those outstanding filmmakers who captured the essence of the craft. With an all-star judging panel, the winners were selected from among more than 1,000 submissions. Gerard Scarpaci, cofounder of Hairbrained, said, "Partnering with IBS allowed us to create a world-class event worthy of our nominees and those who came to support them. The HVA crowd was brimming with electricity and excitement for something new and fresh. We couldn’t have been more thrilled with the evening.” Winners can be found at hairbrainedvideoawards.com. On the show floor The tool category was the largest on the show floor. One company that stood out was Argan Woman. It showed three Japanese-made irons with features that made them very sellable. The cordless flat iron retains a true 435°F for a minimum of 45 minutes. It’s available in black, white, silver and pink and comes in a travel box (SRP $240.00). The AutoCurl is similar to the hot BaByliss MiraCurl, but with enhancements that include an LCD digital display screen, a digital button control, heat-resistant soft silica gel to eliminate the burning of the scalp, a v-shaped opening that allows more hair to be curled each time, three steam holes to release heat when the temperature is too high for the type of hair and an automatic shutoff (SRP $295.00). GammaPiu launched the Relax Hair Dryer. Pier Marco also is the exclusive master distributor for Italian-made GammaPiu hair creating dryers. At the show, they featured the Relax thicker, model, which combines powerful airflow with a fuller hair, low noise level (SRP $169.00). For information while it about the dryers and/or distribution opportunities, contact Exit Ltd. at 908-474-5229 moisturizes, smoothes frizz and adds silkiness. It Pier Marco also distributes Obliphica is packed with vitamins, Professional, which featured its luxurious sea antioxidants and AG's berry-rich products exclusive Colour And that rejuvenate hair Radiance Enhancing from the very first use. The company’s team of Complex to protect color from UV rays, as it celebrity, editorial and protects against heat styling, salon stylists—Artistic humidity and aging.” Reach Samantha at Director Sacha 888-694-8866, ext. 110, or Quarles, plus Joe Santy, Edwin Fontanez sshamash@aghair.com. Visit aghair.com. Newton Luu’s LeChat featured its new gel and Joshua Barrett— polish collection, Perfect Match Sugar Me Up. presented “Wearable The six colors include Rock Candy, Mint Jubilee, Luxury,” featuring Lollipop, Lemon Drop, Cotton Candy and classical hairdressing Spearmint (.5 oz./SRP $31.90). Matching Dare to techniques that Wear Nail Lacquer is also available (.5 oz./SRP produce beautiful, $6.50).” Reach Carlos A Torres, assistant sales sellable styles (left). The company also gave executive, at carlos.torres@lechatnails.com. Visit lechatnails.com. out tens of thousands Grande Naturals’ CEO/founder Alicia of samples of its Grande showed GrandeLASH-MD, the popular Hair Serum. company’s signature product that promotes For information on Obliphica Professional featured classic hairdressing. From left: Edwin longer, thicker, darker lashes (3-month supply/ distribution Fontanez, editorial stylist; Sacha Quarles, artistic director; Dalal Moussa, opportunities, contact SRP $64.95); GrandeMascara in rich black (SRP CEO; Joshua Barrett, session stylist; Joe Santy, technical/sales educator. $24.95); and Grande Hair Stimulating Serum Dalal Moussa, CEO, at for thinning hair (SRP $134.95). Reach Alicia at innovations—tools with a twist. We learned that dalal@obliphicaprofessional.com or visit alicia@grandelashmd.com. Visit obliphicaprofessional.com. attendees will purchase any product that has a grandelashmd.com. Samantha Shamash, director of marketing positive impact on their work and saves time— Renee Albera, president, of for Canadian-based AG Hair as long as they can test it and see immediate YouVeeShield, used IBSNY to Cosmetics, showed me two results.” Reach David at launch YouVeeShield. This new products—Deflect david@arganwoman.com. Visit shield blocks 99% of the UV (5 oz./SRP $24.00), a fast-dry arganwoman.com. light emitted during a gel heat protector, and BB Geppe and Anne Enfiomusi, owners of New manicure or pedicure. The Cream (3.4 oz./SRP $26.00), Jersey-based Pier Marco, one of Alfa Parf’s nominal cost can be a multi-benefit hair primer. largest distributors, go all out at IBSNY with a incorporated into the price of She shared, “Deflect large pavilion that included three stages with the manicure or pedicure. provides a protective barrier non-stop styling, hair coloring demos and major Renee shared, “For clients against heat styling, reduces areas devoted to product sales. with a photosensitivity or those drying time and has a silkyGeppe told BIR, “We debuted the new just cautious about UV light, our slip color protectant extended line of Alfa Parf’s Semi di Lino at product eliminates those formula that reduces styling IBSNY. We had three small stages, each with an AG’s Color Care line debuted Deflect and BB Cream. concerns.” Shields are sold in breakage. Our BB Cream has artist explaining how to use each product and boxes of 20 (list $40.95) and 80 (list $90.95). inviting the audience to ask any questions about 10 multifunctional benefits, and just like BB Reach Renee at youveeshield@gmail.com. Visit Creams in skin care, this is an ideal styling the hair color and the techniques being used to youveeshield.com. primer. BB Cream fills the uneven hair cuticle, achieve the final effect.” The third tool, AutoBaby, is a rotating curling iron with buttons that when pushed, rotate the iron automatically to the right or left, saving the stylist from doing it manually and preventing finger burns (SRP $240.00). Said David Saig, president, “The importance of hot tools continues to grow in the salon market, as people are shifting from straight to curly hair. Attendees were looking for new IBSNY cont. on page 14 APRIL 2014 13 The Beauty Industry Report Visit bironline.com IBSNY cont. from page 13 around the world to further discover At Uberliss, Hasan Syed, president of the full impact these nutrients are Salon Commodities, introduced the Regular having on the human body.” Smoothing Method, which cuts the entire The company’s Ergo Boost Lifestyle processing time of the Uberliss Smoothing Kit features Hair & Scalp Conditioning Treatment to just 1.5 to 2 hours without Treatment, Skin Repair Treatment, sacrificing any straightening or smoothing. Cleansing Recharge Bar and Daily Hasan noted, “The reduced processing time Replenishing Supplements. Sold allows stylists to book more clients and earn separately, products include Hair & more.” The company also introduced the Scalp Conditioning Treatment (8 UberGlamCam, which transposes long oz./SRP $59.00), Skincare Skin Repair Uberliss hair of different colors onto anyone that passes by the camera and TV setup, to the Treatment (2 oz./SRP $42.00), Skincare Cleansing Recharge Bar (2 bars/SRP NYC market. It was a hit with the crowd, with $22.00) and Daily Replenishing many stylists uploading selfies onto Instagram using #UBERLISS.” Reach Hasan at 708-563-0363 Supplement (60 capsules/SRP $39.00). According to Sabrina, “The market is or hsyed@cmdty.com. Visit cmdty.com. looking and expecting natural Fantasia extended its IC Hair Polisher products—but natural products that are range with the launch of Firm Hold Edges highly effective. People are not willing Smoothing Gel (3 oz./list $6.29). This new gel to give up effectiveness for 'natural' in controls fine baby hair around the hairline and many cases. We offer a solution that is nape, adding shine and control. Fantasia’s aloemedically backed and promises they won't enriched formula reduces dryness, flaking and need to make a trade off.” Reach Sabrina at white residue. Reach Larry Roses, director of sabrina@mygroh.com or visit mygroh.com. international sales and marketing, at At last year’s Image Expo Show in Houston, I larry@fantasiahaircare.com or visit spotted La Palm Spa Products, an extensive fantasiahaircare.com. range of nail and body care products marketed Sabrina Jetton, marketing manager of new exclusively to the Vietnamese and Korean nail product development for Entia Biosciences, care markets. When Michael Le, CEO, told me showed the new GROH Ergo Boost Lifestyle he was ready to expand his distribution into Collection. Available through high-end spas the general beauty market. and salons, GROH is I recommended that he a wholly-owned get connected with a sales subsidiary of Entia executive who had Biosciences. extensive experience and Sabrina told BIR, contacts. At IBSNY, I was “Entia Biosciences delighted to learn that he holds two key took my advice. Now patents. The first is working with the brand as the discovery of a key transport system The GROH Ergo Lifestyle Collection offers director of sales is Sandi in our bodies that services and retail opportunities to salons. Lombardi, who has 20 years of experience delivers a targeted working with general market distributors. nutrient, ergothioneine, directly to specific At the show, the company debuted its cells. Second is the discovery that mushrooms Gel II Spring collection called Carried Away— are a potent source of Vitamin D and are six fresh colors plucked from a budding garden naturally enriched when exposed to sunlight. of brilliant and tasty colors. La Palm Products Those two nutrients contribute directly to the Gel II Soak Off Gel Polish provides luminous health of hair, skin and nails, and GROH has nail color that applies fast, feels thin and lasts formulated a product and services line around without base coats, bonders or primers. Gel II those findings. Dr. Marvin Hausman, founder delivers a fast two-step professional system of Entia Biosciences, leads a team of scientific that helps nails grow stronger (0.47 oz./SRP and medical professionals from universities 14 APRIL 2014 Lisa Yamasaki presented fantasy looks. $14.99). Reach Sandi at 440-724-4592 or sandra@laplamproduct.com. Visit buygeltwo.com. Francesca Dubsky, director of marketing for HairMax, including the FDA-cleared HairMax LaserComb, showed me the brand’s new Hair Growth Collection. It includes HairMax for Density Shampoo, Conditioner, Revitalizer and Activator for Thinning Hair, HairMax Minoxidil Hair Regrowth Treatment 5% formula for men and 2% formula for women and HairMax Dietary Supplements. In seven double-blind clinical studies, 93% of participants experienced significant hair growth, with an average increase of 149 additional new hairs per square inch. In addition to new hair growth, benefits included revitalization of dormant hair follicles, reversal of the thinning process, increased density, thickness and fullness of hair and general improvement in scalp health, with no adverse side effects. HairMax is a home-use medical device that utilizes light energy to stimulate hair follicles and promote hair growth in both men and women. Reach Francesca at 561-314-2430 or fd@hairmax.com. Visit hairmax.com. At Inova Professionals, Melek Verbay, sales and manager, shared information on the company’s new Keratin Color Reviver System—Keratin Color Reviver System Triple-Action Shampoo (11 oz./SRP $35.00), Conditioner (7 oz./SRP $35.00) and Hair Mask (10.2 oz./SRP $48.00) in four colors. The sulfate-free shampoo features keratin and color depositing properties to deposit color on the hair every time it’s washed. The conditioner deposits and protects color while de-tangling. It contains hydrating keratin protein, which leaves the hair glossy and touchable. Color-depositing mask uses nanotechnology to penetrate and nourish hair down to the cellular level. It coats the follicle in color and provides a protective layer that locks in moisture. Reach Melek at melek@inovaprofessional.com. Visit inovaprofessional.com. J. Andre launched a line of natural cosmetic sponges, which provide natural vitamins, anti-aging properties, high durability and a luxuriant feel. J. Andre Sponges come in 10 shapes, including its most popular: Blending Wands (3-piece set/SRP $17.95); Ellipse Contour (3-piece set/SRP $9.95); Rain Drop Blender (1 piece/SRP $24.95) and Classic Triangle Block of 8 (8 wedges/SRP $7.95). For distribution opportunities, contact Janaé Tanner, CEO, at 856-229-9441 or janae@jandresponges.com. Visit jandresponges.com. Michael O’Rourke’s Rock Your Hair showcased six new products. Says Kym Riffel, executive vice president/general manager, “Michael is excited about big, soft, shiny curls, both natural and heat styled. We are addressing this trend with several new products, which we introduced at IBSNY.” Two new aerosols include Mega Volume Super Firm Hair Spray (12 oz./SRP $23.00), a flake-free, light-weight humidity resistant formula that has amazing hold without stiffness, and Mega Volume Extra Big Volume Root (12 oz./SRP $20.00), an aerosol mousse that when applied to wet hair on the roots creates big shiny volume. Also new is 3 Day Blow Out (8 oz./SRP $20.00) a blow-dry extender and heat protectant. For ethnic hair types and people prone to static and flyaways, Moringa Dry Oil Mist (4 oz./SRP $18.00) will de-frizz, smooth and add intense shine. For curly girls who want to wrangle their crazy curls, Girls With Curls Curl Crème (5 oz./SRP $19.00) defines, separates and holds beautiful soft shiny curls. For straighthaired girls who want in on the current curl craze, Hot Curls Thermal Curl Spray (10 oz./ SRP $20.00) works as a thermal protectant and helps heatViaBuff features four color-coded levels of exfoliation—gentle styled curls last. SRPs range (purple), mild (green), moderate (pink) and clinical (white). from $17.00 to $23.00. the skin's natural renewal. About the size of a Kim told me that Rock Your Hair is bringing softball, ViaBuff can be made with different on international distributors. Reach her at color coded levels of exfoliation in one for kym@rockyourhair.com or visit cleansing sensitive skin areas with one side and rockyourhair.com. dryer, rougher skin areas with the other. Supreme Hair Goods is a major category ViaBuff Mini, about the size of a large cotton supplier with more 30 years’ experience in the ball, is available in one color for facial or hair industry. The company employs more smaller area cleansing and exfoliating. Reach than 30,000 people across 20 locations Bob at 330-349-2833 or visit viabuff.com. worldwide in Europe, Latin America, North At Crystal Peel Clinical Skin Care, Lynn America and Africa. Young Lee, marketing Lucka, president, showed Crystal Peel Fruit manager, showed me strand-by-strand Remy Extract Exfoliating Pads and the Crystal Peel hair extensions from the company’s Noir Microdermabrasion Exfoliating Lavender Label. The company also featured the Soap and Body Bar in a new scent created Hollywood Wig Collection of 13 wigs in a with French lavender essential oils from variety of lengths and special colors, and new Provence. Bang Bang Mini Bangs from the Prota Line of Fruit Extract Exfoliating Pads combine a organic protein hair. Bang Bang is made in an glycolic and lactic acid mix with seven fruit arch shape for a more natural appearance and extracts, which are all rich in flavonoids, attaches easily with a clip. Reach Young at antioxidants, vitamin E and natural arbutin. The y.lee1583@gmail.com. Visit supremehairus.com. company also added extra L-arbutin and hyaluronic acid for brightening, firming and cell IECSC highlights skin care/spa renewal (60 pads/SRP $50.00). The International Esthetics, Cosmetics & The new Lavender Microdermabrasion Bar Spa Conference (IECSC), the largest spa show provides the benefits of professional in the Northeast, provided a complete spa microdermabrasion in the bath or shower with business-building event, including 324 a relaxing lavender aromatherapy benefit (8-oz. exhibitors, for the 15,000 spa and medical spa bar/SRP $26.00.). professionals who Lynn sells her line to attended. Major dermatologists, plastic surgeons, exhibitors included medi spas and spas. Reach her at Repêchage, Satin lynn@crystalpeel.org. Visit Smooth, Himyskin.org. Fashion Beauty Additional networking and Supplies, Decléor educational opportunities for Paris and Eminence beauty professionals are Organic Skin Crystal Peel debuted its Lavender available at IBS Las Vegas on Care. Attendees Microdermabrasion Exfoliating Body Bar. June 21-23, 2014, at the Las could choose Vegas Convention Center. Visit ibslasvegas.com from 23 spa business and wellness conference programs, 8 medical spa education classes and for more information. IBS New York 2015 will take place April 8Bob McCune, president of ViaBuff, 10, 2015, returning to the Jacob Javits showed ViaBuffs and ViaBuff Minis. These Convention Center in New York City. Visit patented cleansing and exfoliating skin care ibsnewyork.com. tools clean, remove dead skin cells and boost APRIL 2014 15 The Beauty Industry Report Visit bironline.com Salon 2.0—the next big thing is Hair Construction I So between having an amazing team, an t takes way more than good brands and innovative and highly useful concept, and great promotions to be a profitable product content for hairdressers, we are building on our marketer or distributor. In fact, the most past success and are excited about our future! successful companies are those that provide BIR: What led you to Hair Construction? unique programs that offer more than a business CH: I am lucky to partnership for salon owners by creating have an amazing wife, advocates for their products and services. Magdi! She is from Hair Construction, Inc. offers just those Denmark, a successful programs. Combining online technology with a hairdresser and global team of international artistic directors artistic director for from 10 countries, Hair Construction makes it Hair Construction. possible for product companies and distributors After working to help to create more opportunities for salon owners grow two salons for and hair stylists to succeed and make money partners in doing what they love. Cory Hoffart Manhattan Beach, CA, Always on the look out for the newest and on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills, Magdi saw business-building tools for our readers, Beauty and felt firsthand the difficulty that hairdressers, Industry Report (BIR) recently spoke with Cory salon owners and product companies Hoffart, co-founder and CEO of Hair experience here in the U.S. market—problems Construction, about how his company’s tools like education obstacles, lack of brand loyalty help businesses stand out against their and the difficulty of growing clientele. So, we set competitors, drive more clients into salons and out to solve those problems by using our make those businesses a part of the future of amazing content in creative ways. hairdressing, which he calls Salon 2.0. Hair Construction was started by our partner, BIR: Welcome, Cory. Please introduce your Palle, years ago in Denmark with a goal of company to BIR’s readers. empowering hairdressers to do great work and Cory Hoffart (CH): We help companies sell to succeed in this highly competitive industry. more products in three main ways: First, we elevate the level of hairdressing by hairdressers— Magdi and I partnered with Palle to use the content, such as our two annual comprehensive and we all know that better hairdressers have collections of instructional videos, to more clients and buy more products. provide value to all industry players. Second, we provide direct BIR: Tell me about each of marketing not only to your products. salons and stylists, but CH: In addition to our also to their clients. And educational content, we have third, we drive clients to developed tools and features our salon partners through built around that content that our Stylez app. helps drive business momentum Hair Construction has for our partners. By combining been operating on five the two, we build strong continents for the past Using the Stylez app, hairdressers advocates for our products. decade—both in classrooms know what style clients want That’ s because our Stylez app and at seminars, and at large before the appointment. sends new clients directly to hair shows for major stylists and salons. It also gives stylists exclusive multinational product companies and access to more than 300 men’s and women’s distributors. What has traditionally been a Stylez. The Stylez app also has a consumerhands-on, brick-and-mortar learning experience focused side that allows clients to browse looks, is now mobile, making more than 300 choose a style and book an appointment educational videos and other online tools available to hairdressers everywhere, all the time. directly with a stylist who can create the look 16 APRIL 2014 the client wants, because that stylist has access to our proprietary content and step-by-steps. Second, our Stylez Recipes feature short instructional videos (cuts, colors, styles and extensions), head diagrams and text instructions, along with different angles of the hair and multiple style ideas. This empowers all stylists to confidently create great hair, not just look at pretty pictures. The content is available in seven languages. Third, we provide direct marketing tools via our Web and mobile platforms to connect companies not only to salons and stylists, but also directly to salon clients. Distributors really benefit with the ability to promote directly to the people who frequent their customer’s salons. Fourth, the look books of our collections provide a great way to improve client consultations. Additionally, all hairdressers and salons get their own websites and online portfolios and are featured in our Stylez app for client attraction and booking. Lastly, our Level One videos and hairstyle recipes are designed both to train new hair professionals and to hold in-salon hands-on classes. We encourage stylists to buy some champagne, play some music, invite models and hold social-learning events in their salons. Together, our solutions connect all the players in the industry, including beauty schools, product companies, salons, hairdressers, product companies, distributors and salon clients. BIR: That sounds amazing. How do these all work together? CH: Well, our mission is to “improve the education and talent level of hairdressers.” To achieve that, we had to build context around our content, and that’s why we Videos, style ideas, head diagrams and text developed our instructions are in 7 features. So, to languages for 300+ styles. connect all the dots, schools provide accounts to their graduates, increasing their chances of success when they graduate. Salons gain confidence in hiring new professionals, because we can provide continued learning to them to accelerate their skills and professionalism. Salons can access great education Online look books are used content and for salon consultations. also have more engagement with consumers through our Stylez app. Our partners who introduce us to salons have the benefit of engaging with them directly through our Web and mobile platforms, as opposed to traditional mailings or emails. BIR: How does Hair Construction partner with product companies and distributors? CH: Each company operates differently and has different needs, so we offer some flexibility in how they use our tools. Companies can pay a licensing fee to use Hair Construction accounts as a promotional tool in their territories. Or, they can pay a discounted rate for each account they provide to their customers. We work with one company with professional stores that provides 30-day accounts to its customers, and in return, it receives a commission for those who become paying users. BIR: Are your tools already in use? CH: Yes, we have schools and distribution partners already rolling and things are going extremely well. In our short experience, we have found that by attaching Hair Construction to product sales, selling becomes easier and easier. (For example, a company or distributor can offer free Hair Construction accounts with the purchase of a starter kit or color line.) Plus, since we drive more clients to salons and immediately help stylists do better work, that directly leads to more and consistent product sales. BIR: What products do you work with? CH: Actually, we are product agnostic, meaning, we focus on educating the stylists how to cut, color and style hair no matter what products they use. For example, we use general color formulas that can be applied to all lines, not just one line. Neither do we highlight what extensions we work with. Our focus is to empower all hairdressers, not just the ones who use a particular product line. BIR: I understand you can also provide a brand’s field education. Tell me more. CH: We have an international team of 40 top stylists who have worked on stage, done product launches and led seminars and workshops for distributors and product companies for more than a decade. We continue to do that nearly every week of the year, somewhere in the world, whether that is in the United States, Denmark, Portugal, Italy, Germany, Norway or anywhere there are hairdressers. We are always open to doing more of that, especially with our partners. BIR: How do you create awareness to stylists and consumers? CH: Beauty schools develop professional users for us, all who are the future customers of Hair Construction leads seminars and promotes products around the world. distributors. Distributors and product companies share our accounts with their salons and stylists, so we have great access to professionals. Our other focus is on building awareness with consumers. Fortunately, we have an extremely innovative and exciting value-proposition, so we’ve had success acquiring marketing partnerships and publicity with some major fashion and online consumer properties. With product companies and distributors, we strive to provide so much value that they continue to share us with their customers. One example of this is our partnership with Sensei Shears and their sister company, ViaSF. They sell about 4,000 high-quality shears to stylists each month. Each of those customers gets a 60-day account with us, which is a great value-add with their purchase. We have leveraged our extensive European relationships to get Sensei more distribution there. These are the types of mutually beneficial relationships we can create. BIR: Is there a cost to salon owners or stylists? CH: Professionals pay $25 per month per user. They receive access to 300+ hairstyle recipes, their own website and online portfolio, clientattraction, style-discovery and appointment booking, all in one place. Schools can either pay a monthly fee or a price-per-user for a 1-year account. Distributors have different ways to work with us, as well, depending on their needs. BIR: Does Hair Construction compete with other education groups? CH: No, we complement other groups. In fact, we have worked with most every major product company at one time or another. Our education is based on all the different philosophies and approaches. We take the best, standard elements and translate them into an easy-to-use format. BIR: What’s next from Hair Construction? CH: We are looking for more distributor and product company partnerships. We are also launching in schools across the country through a great partnership that will get us into many schools. It will lead to tens of thousands of new professionals who will graduate with Hair Construction accounts every year. BIR: Any final words? CH: We have a driving passion to help hairdressers succeed, and we believe that education and industry collaboration are key to our industry overcoming challenges to survive and thrive. That is why we have created multiple features and tools around our educational content, making it attractive and exciting for salons and stylists to embrace learning and challenging themselves to improve every day. We believe that is vital, and we welcome the opportunity to connect and work with all the companies and groups in this industry who believe that better educated stylists are more loyal, more successful, have more clients, and in the end, buy more products. For more information, reach Cory Hoffart at 305-423-4129 or cory@hairconstruction.us. Visit hairconstruction.co. APRIL 2014 17 The Beauty Industry Report Visit bironline.com Conkle law firm specializes in beauty industry C onkle, Kremer & Engel is a Los Angeles law firm that has a well-earned reputation for expertise in the beauty industry. The firm was started in 1982 by Bill Conkle. One year later, Mark Kremer joined the firm, followed by John Conkle in 1984 and Eric Engel in 1985. Those lawyers practiced as Conkle & Olesten until 2007, when they changed the firm name to Conkle, Kremer & Engel (CK&E) to reflect the core attorneys. Bill departed the firm late in 2013 and started a new firm on his own. Today, John, Mark and Eric, along with CK&E’s team of attorneys and staff, continue to represent many clients in the beauty industry. As they have for years, they continue to help clients fight diversion and counterfeiting, acquire and protect intellectual property, comply with regulations and implement their distribution models. Beauty Industry Report (BIR) most recently visited with CK&E in January 2012 on the occasion of their 30th anniversary. Recently, BIR sat with the core members of CK&E to discuss the legal developments affecting the industry. BIR: You’ve been working in the personal care products business for about 30 years. What changes do you see on the legal landscape that most affect our industry? John Conkle (JC): There has been a dramatic increase in California and federal regulatory compliance issues affecting manufacturers and distributors of personal care products. A dizzying array of regulations can apply to products in the beauty industry—Proposition 65 is the best known, but there are several others that demand attention. BIR: What have been the effects on the industry of Proposition 65? JC: Prop 65 is known as a “bounty hunter” statute, because a few specialized law firms have used it to threaten lawsuits and shake settlements from unprepared manufacturers, distributors and even retailers. Prop 65 lawyers and their repeat clients threaten thousands of businesses every year and extract millions of dollars in settlements. The beauty industry has good reason to be concerned. We’ve seen more Prop 65 bounty hunters going after beauty industry companies, due to the recent addition to the Prop 65 list of several chemicals that are common in personal care products, such as titanium dioxide, 18 APRIL 2014 cocamide DEA, DEA and benzophenone. As more chemicals are added to the Prop 65 list, there will be more demands made on the beauty industry. Even more Prop 65 actions are likely to come, due to John A. Conkle the 2014 launch of the California Safe Cosmetics Products Program database. California’s Safe Cosmetics Act requires manufacturers to report to the California Department of Public Health if any of their products contains an ingredient known or suspected to cause cancer or reproductive harm, which includes everything on the Prop 65 list. The ingredient reporting is now searchable on the internet, enabling Prop 65 plaintiffs to troll easily for their next targets. BIR: How has CK&E been able to help clients deal with Prop 65? JC: The best course is to be proactive, rather than wait for a notice of violation. The list of chemicals continues to grow, so manufacturers need to stay alert as products are reformulated and new products are launched. We routinely advise clients about their obligations and work with them to ensure Prop 65 compliance from the ground up. But when trouble has hit, we’ve helped our clients weather the storm of Prop 65 actions. It’s important to respond promptly when a notice of violation is received, so we work with clients to take an aggressive approach to minimize or eliminate the effect of the notice. BIR: Aside from Prop 65, what ingredient regulations are affecting the industry? JC: The Safe Cosmetics Act has impact beyond just increasing Prop 65 claim exposure— it has its own reporting requirements that are specifically targeted at the beauty industry. It is very important for manufacturers, distributors and brand owners to be aware of the reporting obligations of the Safe Cosmetics Act. California’s Green Chemistry Initiative is also starting to have an impact on consumer goods sold in California, including cosmetics. California’s recent Safer Consumer Products regulations allow the California Department of Toxic Substances Control to identify “Priority Products” for scrutiny. Manufacturers, importers, assemblers and even retailers of Priority Products will be required to either remove the product from sale, reformulate it, or perform a complex “Alternatives Analysis” to try to determine whether there are safer alternatives. We help our clients develop procedures to ensure compliance. BIR: What issues do you see for products that claim to have “organic” ingredients? Eric Engel (EE): There is no federal regulation of cosmetics sold as “organic,” other than voluntary USDA certification process, but California takes use of the term “organic” very seriously. The California Organic Products Act requires Eric S. Engel that multi-ingredient cosmetics labeled as organic contain at least 70% certified organically produced ingredients. There is real risk in not complying with these requirements. In one case, we defended a contract manufacturer who had subcontracted to fill hair products labeled organic, but the subcontractor used unauthorized non-organic ingredients. The products had to be destroyed. Through a combination of aggressive litigating, creative strategies against a reluctant insurer and indemnity claims against the subcontractor, CK&E obtained a settlement that cost our client nothing. As successful as we were, it would have been better for everyone to have avoided the problem by complying with labeling regulations. BIR: What else is CK&E doing to help clients deal with California’s complex array of regulatory requirements? JC: We establish appropriate agreements among manufacturers, importers, distributors, retailers and others in the supply chain to specify who will be responsible for complying with California’s tough regulatory programs, including responding to government agencies or private bounty hunters. BIR: Speaking of which, what issues do you see in manufacturer-distributor relations in the beauty industry? Mark Kremer (MK): Well-written, individualized distribution agreements help manufacturers and distributors establish strong business relationships and avoid disputes. We work with clients to consider the key issues that are likely to arise, such as the control of online sales and advertising. Distributors often want to use a manufacturer’s intellectual property online, such as registering domain names or creating social media sites with the manufacturer’s trademarks, copyrighted product and model images, or translations of the manufacturer’s advertising copy. Distributor’s Internet marketing can be of enormous value, but the manufacturer must control its intellectual property to maintain its rights. International distribution issues must be evaluated under the distributor’s local laws. For example, in the United States, a manufacturer is usually free to restrict the territory of a distributor and may prohibit Internet sales. But in the European Union, the manufacturer can assign exclusive territories for “active” marketing, but cannot restrain a distributor from “passive” sales outside of its territory or designated sales channels. BIR: How do you help manufacturers enter the global market? MK: Our expertise in international issues developed as we helped our domestic clients expand beyond the U.S. market. We collaborate with well-established lawyers worldwide to provide clients with the advice and representation they need for particular markets. Last year, we teamed up with our correspondent lawyers from the Brazilian intellectual property firm Daniel Advogados to give a presentation about what companies can do to protect their brands in Brazil. Brazil’s growing middle class, relatively stable currency and high demand for commodity exports make it a desirable market. Our attorneys also serve as faculty for an educational program sponsored by the Center for International Trade Development, Called Beauty Industry Market Access or BIMA, which helps small and medium size entrepreneurs in the beauty industry develop international trade capabilities. It offers comprehensive training in international regulatory and operational trade requirements, and sponsors tradeshow delegations to Europe and the Middle East. We have been happy to assist BIMA by volunteering our time to instruct participants on important legal topics, including intellectual property protection, contractual arrangements and regulatory compliance. BIR: What are some of the developing issues for brand protection? MK: As I mentioned earlier, manufacturers can lose control of their intellectual property if they don’t control its use online. It is important to act quickly and efficiently to minimize damage to a brand caused by online sales of counterfeit products Mark D. Kremer or false advertising. Many online resale platforms and social media sites, from Amazon and AliBaba to Facebook and YouTube, have established their own takedown services for intellectual property owners. Those can be a cost-effective first step in battling trademark and copyright infringement, and we help clients establish in-house procedures for submitting takedown notices on their own. In the United States, an online resale platform may be liable for contributory counterfeiting if it assists vendors in promoting the sale of counterfeit products, so sometimes a letter from a knowledgeable lawyer helps. We encourage our clients to think expansively about brand protection. In the current business environment, counterfeiters and knock-off manufacturers abound domestically and internationally, so brand protection strategies must be imaginative and vigilant to succeed. CK&E has the distinction of obtaining the only fragrance trademark registration ever issued in the United States for a personal care product. We have always emphasized protecting key trademarks in all potentially important markets, and advise clients to use consistent, distinctive trade dress in packaging and color across product lines as an important brand identifier. We also enforce our clients’ copyrights to protect product labeling and marketing materials, such as website images of products and models. Careful image documentation and reliable watermarking have proven useful to remove infringing images and take down websites that can damage the brand. An upcoming issue is the new Global Top Level Domains (gTLDs) that can infringe on trademark holders’ rights by use of new domain name extensions like “.info”, “.corp”, “.news” and hundreds of others. We advise clients how to efficiently defend their trademarks and domain names against this new threat by cybersquatters. BIR: What are some of the brand protection issues in the global market? MK: Diversion, counterfeiting and trademark infringement are persistent worldwide problems, and brand owners need to be proactive and creative to combat them. Recently, we helped a manufacturer overcome a foreign country’s hurdles in recording its trademarks with the local customs officials, so it could halt product diverted from the U.S. at the border. Product tracking codes remain important for stopping diversion at the source, and the removal of codes by parallel importers is an important issue. CK&E obtained the first published court decision that knowing possession of decoded beauty products is a crime in California. Even a court in China recently took action against an unauthorized reseller of gray market imports, finding that removing manufacturers’ identification codes and applying unauthorized labels infringed the trademark owner’s rights. BIR: What’s the secret to your firm’s success in the beauty industry? EE: We’re very aware of the challenges the beauty industry faces. We stay on top of developing issues and laws of concern to the beauty industry. In addition to being regular instructors for the BIMA program, we have given presentations on regulatory compliance and brand protection matters across the country. We’ve presented to trade organizations such as the Personal Care Products Council and Beauty Industry West. We also make it our business to service our clients in all aspects of their business. Our diverse practice makes us a good partner on almost all matters, including insurance and employment. We are honored to be trusted by the beauty industry and to have a reputation as the go-to law firm for this business. We’re most proud that our clients keep coming back. After serving the beauty industry for 32 years, we continue to provide excellent service and innovative solutions to beauty industry clients. Contact the firm at 310-998-9100 or counsel@conklelaw.com. Visit conklelaw.com. APRIL 2014 19 The Beauty Industry Report Visit bironline.com KALLISTA offers salon professionals specific care S alon professionals put on a brave face, tolerate long hours and endure a stressful environment. Yet creating beauty often comes at a personal cost that can take a toll on their well-being. Realizing that there was an unmet need for products that take care of the special needs of the salon professional, George Frantzis and Linda Gillette Parodi co-founded KALLISTA with the mission “to look after those who make others look more beautiful.” In Linda Gillette Parodi and George Frantzis coJanuary, they launched their first two products— founded KALLISTA “to look after those who hand creams created especially for salon make others look more beautiful.” professionals whose hands are in water and KALLISTA Intensive Moisturizing Cream chemicals daily. Beauty Industry Report (BIR) offers a rich emollient formula that immediately recently checked in with George and Linda to comforts dry, dehydrated and over-worked get the inside story. hands (2.5-oz. tube/list $14). It deeply nourishes, BIR: What led you to create KALLISTA and providing long-lasting benefits. products specifically for a hairdresser’s own We recommend stylists apply KALLISTA Daily special needs? How did you each get to where throughout their day; suggesting, for instance, you are today? they apply after a client says “thank you” for George Frantzis (GF): My experience is in their new hair style. Both were formulated in consumer product marketing, most recently at Europe (France and Switzerland) and tested with P&G in Geneva, Switzerland. That’s where Linda European and American hair stylists. But they are and I met, working together on the global reproduced exclusively in the United States, with launch of Nioxin. From that experience, I knew no parabens, silicones, petrochemicals, that the professional beauty industry was where phthalates or synthetic fragrances. I wanted to dedicate my energy and expertise BIR: That’s an interesting concept. But with so going forward. KALLISTA is a direct result. many hand creams already on the market, Linda Gillette Parodi (LGP): My love of our what makes these so special? industry has kept me passionately engaged for GF: First, they were created especially to years. Starting as a hairdresser was hugely meet the needs of the salon professional. They fulfilling, both personally and professionally. are not just re-packaged or re-marketed creams. Through all my years in sales and education— Secondly, we searched the world for special first at Aveda, then Wella, and recently global ingredients based on age-old education for P&G, I’ve always been the wisdom that along with the advocate for the hair stylist. With newest scientific formulas can KALLISTA, I can give back to my salon make a real difference. In pro friends. KALLISTA hand creams, BIR: Tell me about your first two spilanthes, a tropical plant, products. provides soothing properties for GF: KALLISTA Daily the skin. Hypericum helps Moisturizing Cream is for a balance texture and maintain stylist’s every-day hand care moisture. Nacre, also known as (2.5-oz. tube/list $11.00, 9.5 oz./ mother-of-pearl, has a timelist $22, 17-oz. back bar size/list honored reputation for promoting $36). The fast-absorbing formula supple skin. leaves hands moisturized without a greasy feeling. yet KALLISTA’s first two products are Daily BIR: Do you envision these Moisturizing Cream and Intensive creams becoming salon supple, soft and protected Moisturizing Cream. retail products? during repeated washing. 20 APRIL 2014 GF: While designed specifically for the hairdresser, when we tested our hand creams, many stylists liked them so much they wanted to offer them to their clients. So we created a retail counter display. Again, we listened to stylists’ needs. BIR: What is your distribution model? LP: Since our products are designed for salon professionals, they are sold through territoryexclusive, full-service distributors throughout North America. In selecting distributors, we look for companies that match our dedication to the professional and share our entrepreneurial spirit. We launched in January with five distributors. Princess Salon Services, covering Texas and Oklahoma; Salon Services NW, covering Washington, Oregon, Idaho, Utah and Montana; Goldwell New York, servicing salons in upstate New York; European Image Salon Supplies/ EISS, covering North and South Carolina; and Basset Salon Solutions, servicing salons in California, Arizona and Nevada. Twin State Salon Supply, covering Virginia, West Virginia, Maryland and Washington, DC, and Premier Beauty Supply, covering Illinois, Indiana, Michigan and Ohio, recently joined us. BIR: What will you do to create awareness of the need for your products? And how will you support your distributors’ launch efforts? LP: We work very closely with our distributors to customize launches and extensively sample both salon pros and their clients. We have a robust campaign with Modern Salon Media and have supported other industry media in a variety of ways. KALLISTA is already a supporting member of Intercoiffure America/Canada, and has joined both the Professional Beauty Association and ICMAD. BIR: Any final comments? LGP: We want to thank our distributors, our test salons and those who have already invested in KALLISTA for their support. It’s so gratifying to introduce the concept to a hair stylist, and see her face light up as she grasps the idea that our products are made for her! Reach George Frantzis at gfrantzis@kallistabeauty.com or Linda Gillette Parodi at lgillette@kallistabeauty.com. Visit kallistabeauty.com or facebook.com/kallistabeauty. News continued from page 4 Reuben Carranza, who recently joined Luxury Brand Partners (LBP), an incubator for artist-driven beauty brands, has been appointed as president of R+Co, which launches in May 2014. R+Co brings together a collective of top stylists, led by Howard McLaren, Thom Priano and Garren, to celebrate the culture of hairdressing, provide high-performance products created from a unique point-of-view and offer groundbreaking education. Reuben joined LBP and R+Co after a 24year career at Procter & Gamble, including the past eight years, as CEO, North America, of Wella, the Salon Professional Division of P&G. (See BIR’s March issue.) “It excites me to work on a brand like R+Co that celebrates the culture of hairdressing in such a game-changing way,” Reuben said. “Our industry is, at its core, a profession of relationships and collaboration. You see it happening between stylist and client, muse and professional, photographers, designers and editors.; however, that collaboration has not transcended into the world of products. Howard, Thom and Garren are each forces in the industry, so to have individuals of this caliber come together to share their pointsof-view and push boundaries to create a product line that speaks to the varied needs of hairdressers and of clients will change the status quo.” Reach Reuben at 305-600-1305 or reuben@luxurybrandpartners.com. Visit luxurybrandpartners.com. Brian Bennett joins Evo as North American sales manager. He is a 25-year veteran of the professional beauty industry with a great wealth of sales and marketing experience and acumen in pioneering product distribution and reputation for honesty and integrity. The first half of Brian’s career was in distribution as vice president of sales and marketing at Miller Beauty Supply and Progressive Beauty. The latter part has been on the manufacturing side of the business, working as key sales director for Graham Webb International, Sexy Hair and, most recently, Label.m. Reach Brian at brian@evohair.com. Visit evohair.com. Steve Goddard, president and founder of Pravana, announces three promotions— Tania Kingsrud to vice president of marketing, Irene Seferian to director of marketing and Jamie Muniz to marketing associate. Reach Steve at 818-347-4705 or sgoddard@pravana.com. Visit pravana.com. SureTint Technologies, a provider of professional salon hair color software and technology, has appointed Andreas Zafiriadis and Dina Elliot to the company’s management board. Andreas is a stylist and owner of Salon Buzz in Chicago and was recently Andreas named vice president of Zafiriadis Intercoiffure USA. Salon Buzz has two locations with 110 employees and serves more than 1,500 clients per week. Dina, who is the managing director of marketing and communications for Dina Elliot SureTint Technologies, is also president of Exit One Solutions, an industry marketing, communications and brand development firm she founded 9 years ago. Previously, she was an executive at Wella US, Zotos International, The La Maur Corp. and Blenheim USA. Visit suretint.com. Lee Rich Roberts, a successful sales and marketing executive in the professional beauty industry, died in February at age 83. He worked for L’Oréal, Helene Curtis and Bonat. In 1973, Lee started his own business, Roberts Research Labs with Like A Perm, a setting lotion that held like a permanent wave. In 1976, he acquired the Hi-Pro-Pac Conditioner for Extremely Damaged Hair, the first conditioner to be introduced in a foil 1-oz. packet and marketed exclusively for extremely damaged hair. Lee went on to revolutionize the industry with packets and impulse buying. He continued to acquire salon brands such as Gefden and setting lotion Dryfast. He also acquired the original Faberge Ceramic Glaze Professional Nail Treatment. He was also one of the first manufacturers to develop Scandinavian Tanning products, a line of tanning accelerators and lotions for salons that had tanning beds. The line featured a gel tanning accelerator, as well as the first tanning accelerator in a mousse form. His son Jeff worked with Lee for more than 20 years. "Working with my father in sales and marketing gave me a genuine appreciation for the salon Industry and the international market. I am so thankful for all of the times we worked and traveled together. He was so well liked and admired by so many executives and veterans in the industry." Lee is also survived by two daughters, Lisa and Laura. Added Gary Udell, whose firm Udell Inc. represented Lee’s brands, “Lee was a good and loyal friend. More importantly, he was a true gentleman. Our company had the honor of representing Roberts Research for over 30 years. Lee was a genius when it came to sales and marketing, and he always embraced an entrepreneurial spirit throughout his long successful career. We always looked forward to spending time with Lee, as he always enjoyed life to its fullest. He played an important part in our lives, as well as a vital role in helping our company become successful. Lee will be truly missed.” Thomassen Beauty Supply, family owned and operated since 2000, is looking for experienced sales consultants for Tampa, Miami and Fort Lauderdale. Retire to Florida and keep doing what you love...sales in the beauty industry (when you're not golfing). Call Kate Thomassen at 800-787-3559. News continued on page 22 APRIL 2014 21 The Beauty Industry Report Visit bironline.com News continued from page 22 Lakme USA is searching for a national sales manager, who will be responsible for developing and supporting distributors, sales consultants and Lakme salons throughout the United States. Industry color sales experience is required in return for a competitive salary, bonus opportunity and excellent benefit package. Position requires travel throughout the United States and working in the field with sales consultants and distributors. Send your resume to joem@lakme.com and visit lakmeusa.com. New Indie Hair Foam #bigvolume gives hair weightless body and volume with medium hold. It also defines waves and curls and adds shine. To use, just pump it, work it and then blow it out with a round brush or diiffuser. The foam is spiked with My Indie Complex, which contains pomegranate oil, pumpkin seed oil, quinoa and soybean protein extract (6.75 oz./list $7.50). To learn more about the brand, reach Tracy Liguori, Scruples copresident and director of marketing/ advertising, at 800-457-0016 or tracy@scrupleshaircare.com. Visit myindiehair.com Malibu C has partnered with U.S. Masters Swimming, the national governing body for adult swimming, as an official sponsor. “Malibu C has been dedicated to swimmers for almost three decades,” says Tom Porter, founder and president. “As a pioneer of products for water-related issues of the hair, scalp and skin, Malibu C has researched how elements in water—including chlorine, calcium, copper, and other minerals—affect 22 APRIL 2014 the external body.” Rob Butcher, Masters Swimming’s executive director, adds, “Malibu C’s gentle, ecoconscious line of personal-care products meets the needs of our diverse membership base of both competitive and fitness swimmers.” To learn more, reach Leslie Wade, Malibu C marketing manager, at 800-622-7332, ext. 315, or lwade@malibuc.com. The new Rusk Styling Collection strengthens hair, protects color and defends against environmental stressors. The product range includes Freezing Spray, a quick-dry, humidity-resistant hairspray that offers allday, extreme hold and definition without build-up (10 oz./SRP $19.00). Glue amps up any style and helps create gravity-defying looks that stay put. This non-sticky formula features sunflower seed oil and wax for intense moisturizing benefits so hair looks healthy and shiny (4 oz./SRP $18.00). Putty offers texture and definition with added thickness and all-day control and hold. It’s formulated with beeswax and lanolin wax for flexible styles (3.7 oz./SRP $18.00). Paste features a web-like, fibrous texture to help manipulate hair into any shape and change shapes throughout the day. Ideal for textured looks, its ultra-pliable formula easily lifts, separates and defines hair. The exclusive FibeRUSK complex creates the web-like fibers for conditioning hold, increased body and shine, all without stickiness or stiffness (4 oz./SRP $18.00). Texture Spray offers instant volume and fullness by enhancing hair’s texture and shape. This multi-benefit spray maintains hair’s natural sway/ movement and delivers a matte finish. Glycerin provides optimum moisture to aid in styling (8 oz./SRP $18.00). Reach Gregg Emery, vice president of sales, Conair/Rusk, at gregg_emery@conair.com. Visit conair.com. The new Shaoé Haircare System features the Secret Seven Complex, which includes French caviar oil, African baobab oil, South American aloe vera, galanga toot, Swiss dark chocolate, Australian eucalyptus oil and Himalayan goji berries. Said designers Josef and Shaun Settle, “We are celebrating our launch with a series of educational soirees, including regional events and in-salon workshops across the United States, to support our distributors.” As the owners of Avant Gard the Salon & Spa and Avant Gard The School in Indianapolis for the past 25 years, Shaun and Josef are sharply focused on the creation of dynamic hair artistry while helping train other hair designers. For distribution opportunities, contact Josef at 855-974-2637 or info@shaoehaircare.com. Visit shaoehaircare.com. Eufora’s new Aloe Lite Bleaching Pod comes in packaging that is designed to keep stylists’ hands out of the bleach. The bleach pod or pods are placed into a nonmetallic mixing bowl and then the developer is added at a 1:2 mixing ratio, mixing until the soluble pod is dissolved. The pouch is made from PVA, a non-toxic, food-grade, biodegradable, water-soluble film (salon list $25.95) Contact Chrystal Ashmore, marketing manager of new product development, at chrystala@eufora.net. Visit eufora.net. New from the makers of Cover Your Gray is Cleanse & Cover, a multi-purpose hair powder that covers roots and grays, conceals thinning areas and increases volume. In addition, the alcohol-free formula cleanses and refreshes hair between colorings and leaves the hair smelling great with that justshampooed appearance. Water is not needed to activate the product. It’s available in five colors—dark brown, brunette, light brown/blonde, black and auburn (SRP $14.99). For more information, visit coveryourgray.com. Balmain Paris Hair Couture adds styling products. Silk Perfume (5.07 oz./SRP $34.50) with optional atomizer (SRP $19.95) gives a lightweight finishing touch. Argan Moisturizing Elixir (3.38 oz./SRP $37.95), a pure organic rejuvenating serum, leaves hair smooth and healthy looking. Texturizing Salt Spray (5.07 oz./SRP $28.50), a bodifying sea salt, adds definition, texture and body. Contact Leontine Buitelaar, division manager USA, at leontine.buitelaar@balmainhair.com. Visit balmainhair.com. Eufora launches Curl’n, a collection of seven products to target and beautify the three main types of curl: wavy, curly or coily. Enhancing Shampoo, a gentle, sulfate-free cleanser, imparts weightless moisture for healthy, shiny, frizz-free, bouncy curls (8.4 oz./SRP $24.00). Enhancing Conditioner is a nutrient-rich daily conditioner that detangles and restores moisture without weight for lively, frizz-free and manageable curls (8.4 oz./SRP $25.50). Cleansing Cream creates a non-lathering conditioning cleanser that provides maximum hydration for extra dry, frizzy and unruly hair (8.4 oz./SRP $8.00). Nourishing Treatment provides intense nourishment for dry and damaged curls and waves (6 oz./SRP $26.50). Forming Cream creates, defines and shapes curls, leaving hair soft, touchable and shiny. Plus, its antihumidity formula gives ultimate frizz protection (6 oz./SRP $26.00). Perfect Curl Activator, a dual-purpose, wet and dry leave-in curl enhancer, leaves curls frizz-free (8.4 oz./SRP $24.50). Defining Solution enhances, defines and tames frizz with hold that wil last throughout the day (6 oz./SRP $25.75). Also available is a Curl’n Regimen Kit, which includes an 8.4-oz. Enhancing Shampoo, 8.4-oz. Enhancing Conditioner, 6-oz. Forming Cream, 8.4-oz. Perfect Curl Activator, 2-oz. Cleansing Cream plus a microfiber towel for soaking up extra moisture after cleansing without disturbing the curl pattern (SRP $89.00). Contact Chrystal Ashmore, marketing manager of new product development, at chrystala@eufora.net. Visit eufora.net. Scruples' new Blow Dry Spray Save Time & Protect (6.6 oz./list $9.60) saves time, while protecting and priming the hair for styling. Evaporative silicone enters the cuticle and pushes out water to help reduce blow-dry time and protect hair from thermal styling damage. The lightweight formula also conditions, reduces frizz, adds shine and creates a great styling base. Visit scrupleshaircare.com. Root Vanish by Los Angeles-based celebrity colorist Kazumi Morton is a new gel-based product that instantly hides roots and grays out of sight with an easy, mess-free swipe of the click-pump brush applicator. Once dry, the non-permanent natural colorant leaves a radiant and flawless finish that is soft to the touch and does not transfer—even in high humidity or sweat. Created in Japan and designed by Kazumi in Beverly Hills, the product leaves no residue, is fragrance-free and is blended with 22 Asian botanicals to treat and hydrate the hair and scalp. Kiwabi Inc. partnered with Kazumi to launch the line in November 2013. The sleek brush applicator holds 100 pumps—approximately 40 to 60 applications, depending on quantity of use. Colorists can also color on top of it. The color will last 2 to 3 weeks. (SRP $48.00). Reach Emi Kamiya, U.S. brand manager, sales-usa@kiwabi.com. Visit kiwabi.com/eng/ Agave’s new Healing Vapor Iron infuses hair with Agave vapor infusion. Loaded with agave plant sugars, the infusion strengthens the hair shaft while sealing the outer cuticle for ultimate shine and sleekness (list $109.00). Visit agaveoil.com. Recognizing that the traditional model of selling doesn’t work for everyone, Farouk Systems has developed The Toolbar by CHI. This interactive toolbar eliminates the barriers that create a distance between customers and products. The toolbar increases customer engagement and access to merchandise by allowing them to test out an assortment of CHI blow dryers, flat irons, curling irons and brushes. By creating a more fun, interactive environment, salons can offer a unique experience for their clients that includes an upgraded level of service. “For salons to become the preferred retailer for beauty products, the retail experience needs to evolve, as the consumer embraces new ways of shopping. Salons have an advantage when retailing—consumers trust their stylists and rely on them for expert advice,” said Basim Shami, CEO. The selection of tools is pre-set and includes a combination of best-sellers and the new DURA CHI professional tool line. The toolbar comes pre-assembled. To learn more about this retailing opportunity, reach Scott Feldshon, senior vice president of domestic sales, at 800-237-9175 or sfeldshon@farouk.com. Visit farouk.com. Schwarzkopf Professional has teamed up with FHI Heat to create the SKP-Pro Heat Dryer (SRP $165.00) and SKP-Pro Heat Flat Iron Powered by FHI Heat (SRP $165.00). They will be used backstage at Los Angeles Fashion Week, along with other FHI Heat cult classics. They feature digital temperature control, Rapidtek heating, Black Diamond ceramic technology, Nano-Fuzeion technology and more. Tools have a 2-year warranty. For more information on the tools and details on the newest technology, visit fhiheat.com or schwarzkopfprofessionalusa.com. News continued on page 24 APRIL 2014 23 The Beauty Industry Report Visit bironline.com News continued from page 23 Anthony Battaglia’s Battalia USA introduces the Big Tease. Manufactured in the 1970s as the 806 Brome, the Big Tease is an all-purpose styling tool that helps you tease hair to a firm base or soft tease, adding bounce and movement. It features three rows of poly bristle, a five-prong, non-rusting stainless steel lift and an ergonomically designed grip, plus an antibacterial additive (SRP $9.95). It’s made in the USA. Reach Sandra Gavagni at 561-391-6554 or salesqueen@aol.com. Visit battaliausa.com. For straight or voluminous blowouts, the 1875-watt Tourmaline Ceramic Dryer (Model BH424, $34.99) features three heat settings and two speeds for styling flexibility. A cold shot button sets the style. A concentrator attachment makes smoothing and straightening easy, while the diffuser attachment helps form volume and waves. The 1-inch Tourmaline Ceramic Curved Edge Straightener (Model BH226, $34.99) features curved edge plates that allow you to straighten, flip, or curl; high heat up to 400°F; multiple heat settings for styling all hair types safely; and instant heat recovery. Reach Andy Rah, director of marketing, at andy.rah@tigihaircare.com. Visit tigihaircare.com. Elchim's new stylers leave hair shiny, sleek and beautiful. Tools are available in two sizes— the 1-inch Elchim Styler SRP $199.00) and 1½-inch Elchim Wide Styler (above, SRP $210.00). Digital control of the temperature has 11 steps from 203 to 455°F. The irons features ceramic and nano-titanium plates, which heat up in 17 seconds. Reach Ken Bellizi, vice president, at 855-379-2922 or ken.bellizi@elchim.com. Visit elchim.com. Orly’s spring Blush Collection includes six spring-ready nail colors that emphasize a woman’s natural beauty. The line ranges from barely-there nudes to peachy pinks and includes Cheeky, Classic Contours, Dare to Bare, First Blush, Flawless Flush and Naked Canvas (.6 oz./SRP $8.50 each). Reach John Galea, advertising and public relations manager, at 818-994-1001 or jgalea@orlybeauty.com. Visit orlybeauty.com. The new Bed Head Split Personality line of hair appliances includes a 1-inch tapered wand, 1875-watt hair dryer and a curved edge straightener. Each item has dual functionality, coupled with a unique color split design. In addition, tools feature tourmaline ceramic technology for smooth frizz-free results with maximum shine. The 1-inch Tourmaline Ceramic Tapered Flipperless Styling Iron (Model BH339, $29.99) allows you to create both tight and loose curls. It includes a tapered barrel, clamp-free wrap-and-go design, high heat up to 400°F, instant heat recovery, a heat protective glove and a removable silicone cool tip. SpaRitual’s 2014 Spring Collection, Explore, features six shimmery and radiant tones and bright neons. This season’s colors include Unchartered, Wilderness, Navigate, North Star, Firefly (left) and Magnify (SRP $12.00). Contact Annie McCullough, vice president of sales, at amccullough@sparitual.com. Visit sparitual.com. 24 APRIL 2014 OPI launches seven limited edition nail lacquers inspired by Major League Baseball (MLB), marking the first professional sports league licensing agreement for the company. Featuring a range of red, orange, blue and white hues, MLB Collection by OPI shades are ideal to mix, match and wear while fans cheer on their favorite MLB team. “Enjoying a baseball game is one of America’s most celebrated pastimes,” explains Suzi Weiss-Fischmann, OPI co-founder and executive vice president. “Baseball boasts a lot of female fans looking to demonstrate their love of the game through fashion— from trendy, feminine sports apparel to themed accessories. Now, women can wear the limited edition MLB Collection nail lacquers to show support from head (and fingers) to toe!” OPI’s MLB Collection includes Short– STOP!, Love Athletes in Cleats; Orange You Going to the Game?; Right Off the Bat; 7th Inning Strrretch; Umpires Come Out at Night; and Girls Love Diamonds (SRP $9.00). Reach Bill Halfacre, executive vice president of sales and marketing, at 800-341-9999 or bhalfacre@opi.com. Visit opi.com. Measurable Difference Lipo-Lotion from Chrislie Formulations features the patented QuSome micro encapsulation system. It delivers concentrated ingredients to the skin, to help it look more toned, chiseled, sculpted and smooth all over. Lipo-Lotion assists in visually diminishing dimples, while firming, tightening and toning a number of stubborn fat storage regions of the body. Changes can be seen in traditional flabby body sections like the tummy, tush, love handles and challenging underarm areas. Simply apply the lotion twice a day to specific areas of concern for smoother, firmer skin. Massaging it into the skin with LipoLotion’s high-tech built-in massaging applicator in a rotating motion for 3 minutes produces instant, visible results. Reach Casey Sripramong, brand manager, at casey@lashem.com. To read more about the science and ingredients behind the product, visit chrislie.com. Chella has opened its flagship Chella Brow Bar in Westlake Village, CA. Offering Free brow touch-ups and additional brow services, Chella is expanding on its recent successful Free Brow Make-over Events at Pamper Me Fabulous and BeWell Expo to bring their services to brick and mortar locations across the United States. To discuss franchising opportunities and learn more, contact Chris Kolodziejski, president, at 805 383-7711 or chris@chella.com. Visit chellabrowbar.com. My Salon Suite, a salon suite franchise company, recently opened its newest location in Palm Beach Gardens, FL. My Salon Suite is quickly growing its national presence with nine franchise and corporate locations operating in five states. Four of those are in Florida. Each suite offers the luxury clients and beauty professionals should expect from a high-end, professionally designed salon. Suites are further customized to each tenant's design choices and professional needs, based on the services offered. Every My Salon Suite location provides an upscale, relaxing environment, without the drama and financial overhead that is common for professionals My Salon Suite is one in the beauty of the newest models services industry. where independent My Salon Suite of beauty pros can set up shop. Palm Beach Gardens offers customizable private suites and amenities for different specialties of professionals, ranging from hair stylists to nail technicians and massage therapists. "Our suites are beautifully built with every amenity our tenants desire. We're located in a high-traffic retail center with popular store anchors that will provide visibility and walkin traffic for our tenants," says Rick Dorfman, property manager at My Salon Suite of Palm Beach Gardens. "Our location also offers other unique competitive advantages. With a background in business law, I have experience helping people start businesses from the ground up, and I have a vested interest to use that experience to help our tenants succeed." Visit mysalonsuite.com. Premiere Beauty Supply continues to grow with 31 distributor salon consultants, 3 brand managers and 4 sales managers covering Illinois, Indiana, Ohio and Michigan. At America’s Beauty Show, BIR checked in with Steve Cohn, principal, for an update. “Our current brand mix includes Moroccanoil (Illinois only), Keratin Complex (not Michigan), Kevin Murphy, Keune, ColorProof, DS Labs, Eufora, Men’s Department, Alfaparf (Illinois and Indiana only) and One Styling,” said Steve. “New to us in May will be Kallista and Revitalash.” Rosalie Benassi was hired in October 2013 as director of sales and is responsible for all aspects of sales and education. She has 20plus years experience in the beauty industry working both for manufacturers and distributors. She worked in a similar role with Premier in the late ’90s. Steve’s son Alex has also joined the family business. Steve added, “We are currently starting an inside sales team to cover remote markets. We also plan to hire up to five more DSCs before the end of the year.” Reach Steve at scohn@pbsupply.com and visit premierbeautysupply.com. Minneapolis-based Beauty Craft has expanded its distribution territory to include Chicago and the surrounding area. The company now has distributor salon consultants developing business in the third largest metro market in the United States. Beauty Craft has continued to grow over the past few years by providing manufacturers with the opportunity to work with an aggressive sales force led by Adam Wexler and Ian Wexler, the sons of Max and Marianne Wexler, principals. In addition, son Ben Wexler oversees six professional-only Beauty Craft store locations. Beauty Craft provides online ordering for its customers with next-day delivery to Chicago. Beauty Craft also services beauty pros in Minnesota, Wisconsin, Iowa and Nebraska. Reach Adam at 952-393-8174 or adamw@beautycraft.com. Visit beautycraft.com. Salon Services will now distribute Moroccanoil products in Montana. “It is our honor to represent Moroccanoil in the Pacific Northwest,” said Sydney Berry, owner/ president of Salon Services. “We have been so impressed with Moroccanoil’s product performance, anti-diversion actions, marketing strategy and education platform. We have seen great success with the brand in Washington, Oregon, Idaho and Utah, and look forward to bringing Moroccanoil to Montana.” Reach Sydney at sberry@salonservicesnw.com or visit salonservicesnw.com. News continued on page 26 APRIL 2014 25 The Beauty Industry Report Visit www.bironline.com News continued from page 25 Peter Garzone’s Luxury Hair Brands, LLC, the exclusive U.S. distributor for Luxury Hair Color, announced that Jack White’s Infinity Beauty Distributors in Pacheco, CA, will distribute the brand in Northern California. With its proprietary 99.8% pure pigments, Luxury Hair Color is low in ammonia (.5% for natural shades and less than 1% for its high lifts). The cream base is infused with orchid butter and green tea to protect the hair and color pigments. The line consists of 150 shades, including correctors and a color booster called Joker. For more information, reach Kim Sarros, vice president of sales and marketing, at kim@infinitybeauty.net; or Jack White, president, at jwhite@infinitybeauty.net. Visit luxuryhairbrands.com. The Beauty Collection, with locations in West Hollywood, Calabasas, Malibu and Newport Beach, CA, recently added several new hair, skin, brow and lash treatments. With the mantra “Curators in the Art of Beautiful,” owner Shawn Tavakoli knows the importance of offering luxury spa services to his clientele. The store carries most of the premier skin care lines and the skin care therapists customize treatments that are best for each client's skin. One of the new services is the Caudalie Premier Cru Facial (60 minutes/$125.00). Also new is the Beauty Collection Studio Membership for facials. The program encourages consistent monthly care, so clients see the results they are looking for. It also gives them the opportunity to try a variety of treatments from the menu at a promotional price. For more details, teach Maria Rush, vice president of business development, at 818-785-7447 or maria@beautycollection.com. You can also visit beautycollection.com for store locations and to review the complete service menu. 26 APRIL 2004 VNC-NE is now representing four additional divisions from American International. The lines are Clean N Easy, Gena Labs, L’Orbette Waxes and Checi. This is in addition to the Andrea Lashes and It’s So Easy divisions, which are already represented by the sales and marketing organization. The VNC-NE team has six full-time sales professionals in the territory. Reach Tom Harrison, Midwest and Northeast manager, at tom@vncsales.com. Effective February 1, CFN Beauty Representation expanded to the West Coast, according to owners Gary Fishkin and Steve Nutile. “This completes our goal of offering the finest beauty manufacturers national coverage with a full-time team of experienced sales professionals,” says Gary. “As distribution continues to consolidate, it is essential that we evolve to meet the expanding needs of our customers.” Established in 1990, CFN has expanded through strategic and organic acquisitions. Reach the New York office at 631-549-1670. Robert Urfer’s new Lucas Cide Salon and Spa Disinfectant will be represented exclusively by CFN nationally, effective May 1. Reach Robert, president and founder, at 800-582-2765 or robert@lucasproducts.com. Visit lucascide.com. The Professional Beauty Association (PBA) will present the first PBA Executive Summit, on December 4-5 at the Omni Scottsdale Resort & Spa at Monteluci in Scottsdale. The event will bring together executives from top beauty companies to learn from leading business experts on how expanding technology and social connections have transformed marketing and communications in the beauty industry. This year's theme, Consumer IQ, allows attendees to explore the trends that Gen Y and Millennials are responding to, as well as examine comprehensive industry data that can forecast upcoming trends applicable to business strategies. Moderating this inaugural summit is former CNN anchor and NBC correspondent Gene Randall. Featured sessions include • “What Gen Y & Millennials Want from Your Brand.” Jane Buckingham will help you navigate through the differences and similarities between generations X and Y and discuss various marketing strategies geared towards each age group. • Where Good Ideas Come From by Steven Berlin Johnson. Consider breakthroughs as different as Darwin's theories and the rise of YouTube, and ask: what did these moments have in common? What environments fostered these ideas? Steven answers those questions with a core set of innovative principles that have encouraged creativity and grown businesses across history. Results from PBA's Industry Research Study will be presented by Carrie Mellage. In collaboration with Kline & Company, Inc., PBA is conducting a comprehensive study to provide data that can be used to help identify trends, benchmark performance, and evaluate competitive beauty related sectors. The results of this study will aid in the decision-making process for businesses involved in the professional beauty industry. Cost is $499 for PBA members and $749 for non-members. To make hotel reservations, call 877-409-6664 and reference the PBA Executive Summit to receive the negotiated rate of $199/night (single/double). Visit probeauty.org for more information. The PBA is also hosting four, one-day Regional Forums, formerly known as the Regional Salon Summits. Each session during the day-long forums will be led by industry leaders and consultants. Discussion topics range from marketing and stylist development to business management and government affairs and are designed to helps salon owners and beauty professionals elevate their businesses, careers and our industry as a whole with practical information they can readily apply. Networking with other salon professionals will allow attendees to learn from one another and discuss common interests and business strategies. The PBA Regional Forums are open to all, regardless of PBA membership. Dates/locations include: • Monday, May 19, Joliet, IL. • Monday, July 14, Las Vegas (as part of PBA Beauty Week at Cosmoprof North America). • Monday, September 22, Boston. Featured core sessions include “Trend Interpretive Business Solutions” by DJ Riggs and Berry Bachen, MAINENTRANCE Artists creative directors; “Designing Hair with Color for NAHA” by Palma N'Sheluvzit, NAHA 2011 Avant Garde finalist; “Body Language: Confidential” by Traci Brown, certified master practitioner of neuro linguistics, hypnosis and huna; “How to be an EcoFriendly Salon and Stylist” by Tamara Jercha, founder of the National Association of EcoFriendly Salons & Spas and Legislative Update by PBA’s Government Affairs Team. Price for PBA members is $119; non-PBA member price is $159. For details, including locations, hotel information and to register, visit probeauty.org/forums. Temple Clean LLC has been acquired by BluSands, LLC. Bill, who with Lynne Coleman, owned the company, recently sent this announcement to the company’s customers. “I am happy and proud to announce that our TempleClean brand has been acquired by BluSand, LLC, manufacturer of the original BleachSafe towel used by salons worldwide. I continue to work in sales and product development, but less in the day-to-day operations. Be assured that you can expect to receive the same level of honesty, quality and care that you have come to expect from TempleClean. One of the many appealing points of this relationship is the attitude the companies share regarding these values. I invite you to call BluSand, LLC at 800-600-4111, or visit the new website at BluSand.com to check it out or replenish any products you might need. I also encourage you to try the extremely popular BleachSafe towels the next time you are ordering any of the TempleClean brand products. You won't be disappointed! We thank you and look forward to your continued business and support. Our satisfaction is derived from being able to provide you with unique, useful and quite simply the best salon and spa products available, and we are excited to continue on with that mission!” accessed on the company’s system. As a result of the continuing investigation, Sally now understands that a larger number of additional records containing payment card data may have been illegally accessed and removed from its systems. The company will not speculate on the scope of the incident until the forensic review progresses, because experience with such incidents at other retailers has taught that it is difficult to ascertain the extent of a data breach incident until the required forensic review is complete. Said the company in a statement, “We will continue to provide updates regarding the status of the investigation and the steps we will be taking to assist any customers who may have been affected by the incident through sallybeautyholdings.com. We will provide appropriate notifications to customers who may have been affected by the incident and others as the facts develop and we learn more.” Sally Beauty is offering one free year of credit monitoring and identity-theft protection for those customers who might have been affected by an unauthorized intrusion into the Sally Beauty Supply LLC network. “Our customers remain our top priority,” said Gary Winterhalter, chairman, president and CEO. “Instructions for this service can be found on sallybeautyholdings.com.” Since the intrusion was discovered, the company has been comprehensively investigating the security incident with the assistance of its advisers. Based on the investigation, the company previously reported that, although it would not speculate on the scope of the incident, it discovered evidence that fewer than 25,000 records containing card-present (track 2) payment card data may have been illegally The Salon Professional Academy of Tacoma has donated $5,000 raised during a student-led hair show designed to showcase student talent and support the reign of Ms. Wheelchair America. The money will be used to offset travel expenses incurred by Ms. Wheelchair America while sharing the platform “Inclusion Revolution” across the United States. Jenny Adams, the reigning Ms. Wheelchair America and a long-time client of The Salon Professional Academy of Tacoma, served as the emcee for the event, and debuted an original song developed for the show. The donation made to further Jenny’s message will be used to offset travel costs as she visits expos and events throughout the United States to share her platform, titled “Inclusion Revolution.” The Salon Professional Academy of Tacoma is the official beauty provider for Jenny. APRIL 2004 27 Presorted Standard U.S. Postage PAID San Dimas, CA Permit No. 410 PMB #403 22287 MULHOLLAND HIGHWAY CALABASAS, CA 91302-5157 ADDRESS SERVICE REQUESTED The Beauty Industry Report A MONTHLY NEWSLETTER FOR EXECUTIVES IN THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY BIZ Acquisitions of legacy salon brands continue to lead to changes at those companies. The most recent announcement: Revlon Professional Brands is consolidating its U.S. Haircare (formerly Colomer Beauty Brands) and USA Nail (CND) commercial operations under Marty Flaherty, who has been promoted to general manager. The company will be headquartered in the San Diego Metro area, with the Denver office relocating. In other company news, David Raccuglia is returning to American Crew as creative consultant and photographer for the company he founded in 1994. He will also provide creative direction for Style Masters, a Revlon Professional brand. Changes also continue at Cotyowned OPI, as Suzi WeissFischmann, executive vice president and artistic director, will transition to a consultant role, effective July 1. She is expected to consult on color collections and to serve as a global ambassador for the brand. And speaking of someone who knows a thing or two about mergers and acquisitions, Mark Cuban, the owner of the Dallas Mavericks, Landmark Theatres BIR Special Deal Subscribe today! All regular subscriptions include the eBIR monthly FREE. Electronic Version Only 2 years .........$99.90 ............eBIR emailed monthly for .....................................................27 ......................................................... months (3 months Free!) 1 year ............$59.95 ............eBIR emailed monthly for .....................................................12 months Print Version 2 years .............$216 ............28 issues, 4 free issues for a .....................................................savings of $32 and Magnolia Pictures, author of How to Win at the Sport of Business and star investor on ABC’s “Shark Tank,” will keynote the PBA Business Forum on July 13 in Las Vegas. In addition, Giuliana and Bill Rancic will host the 2014 North American Hairstyling Awards, also on July 13. Two years ago, beauty aficionado Giuliana was charming and engaging as the solo NAHA host. We are delighted to learn that she’ll return. Get your tickets now at probeauty.org. 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