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WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! Back to school? Time for one last party… V Festival Leo Brouwer de Música de Cámara Sept 24-Oct 13 p 25 A sugar of a journey by Christopher Baker p3 PRODUCED BY The ultimate guide to The Agro by Conner Gorry p 33 .COM SEPT 2013 .COM Cuba Absolutely is an independent platform, which seeks to showcase the best in Cuba culture, life-style, sport, travel and much more... we seek to explore Cuba through the eyes of the best writers, photographers and filmmakers, both Cuban and international, who live work, travel and play in Cuba. Beautiful pictures, great videos, opinionated reviews, insightful articles and inside tips. ALL ABOUT CUBA, ALL THE TIME HIGHLIGHTS HAVANA RESTAURANT GUIDE We have reviewed over 150 places to eat in Havana from the coolest new paladar to the old favorites. Check out. The Ultimate Guide to Dining out in Havana. Like us on Facebook for beautiful images, links to interesting articles and regular updates. Over 100 videos including interviews with Cuba’s best artists, dancers, musicians, writers and directors. Follow us on Twitter for regular updates of new content, reviewa, comments and more. OUR CONTRIBUTORS We are deeply indebted and extremely grateful to all of the writers and photograohers who have shared their work with us. We always welcome new contributors and would love hear from you if you have developed a Cuba-related project, idea, photo series or article. You can contact us at CubaAbsolutely@gmail.com recommends these Travel Providers for US visitors to Cuba Witness Cuba on routes less traveled. Meet the people. Experience their culture. Learn their history. Organizing innovative cultural tours off the beaten track for more than 25 years Discover Cuba's art, architecture and culture during an exciting people-topeople travel program. Bringing people together through travel Music, dance and cultural trips to Cuba PRODUCED BY .COM recommends these European Travel Providers for independent travel to Cuba The largest independent travel company specialized in Cuba Everything and everywhere in Cuba Bespoke Luxury Holidays in Cuba for the discerning traveler Leading provider of cycling tours through Cuba with over 15 years experience For the sophisticated traveller, tailor-made, with style and the individual touch WOWcuba: discovery Cuba inner beauty PRODUCED BY .COM WHAT’ SO HAVAN N A ! page 2 WHAT’S ON HAVANA SEPTEMBER 2013 ! Cuba may not celebrate Labor Day to mark the end of summer but there is always time for one last party before school starts. In fact this August has seen more concerts, festivals and other events then I can remember. Event promoters, Saroa and Proyecto Analógica have taken the electronic dance music scene to a whole new level. Viva la Habana Fárandula. While September may be a relatively quiet month in Cuba as Cubans get back to work, tourists largely steer clear of the muggy hurricane season and there are few prestigious cultural festivals, don’t make the mistake to assuming that there is nothing interesting happening this month. Cover photo by Ivan Soca Lovers of classical music shouldn’t miss the prestigious V Leo Brouwer classical music festival, (Sep 24th to Oct 13th). Elsewhere look out for the always-innovative modern dance Compañía Rosario Cárdenas performing Tributo a El Monte and the brilliant Monse Duany in Las lágrimas no hacen ruido al caer. And, between you and me, I am sure the texts announcing the next hip party will keep on coming! We are delighted to welcome Christopher Baker onboard who takes us on a Sugar of a Journey on the anachronistic Hershey electric train. Welcome back to Conner Gorry with her authoriative Guide to the Havana Agro and a big thumbs up to Cuba Libro (Havana’s 1st English-Language Bookstore & Café), which a month in, is going strong. We hope you enjoy this review. Any feedback and/or notices about events are always appreciated. You can contact us at CubaAbsolutely@gmail.com PLASTIC ARTS PHOTOGRAPHY Stainless innovative art group at Sierra del Rosario art gallery p 8 Exhibition by Chilean Fernando Morande p9 MUSIC PERFORMING ARTS The 5th Leo Brouwer Chamber Music Festival p 25 Las lagrimas no hacen ruido al caer, featuring Monse Duany p 26 HAVANA GUIDE DANCE The Rosario Cárdenas Company Tributo a El Monte p 12 OTHER EVENTS IN HAVANA p 28 OTHER AROUND CUBA p 30 FOR KIDS p 29 The best bars & clubs in Havana p 31 The best place to eat in Havana p 32 Conner Gorry’s Ultimate guide to The Agro p 33 Directory / Address book p 36 Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com A sugar of a journey by Christopher P. Baker You may never arrive. There will be delays. But a journey on the anachronistic and creaky old Hershey electric train is worth every centavo of the CUC2.80 that foreigners are charged. Even if you don't make it all the way to Matanzas. Rail journeys hold a particular magic, none more so in Cuba than the “Hershey Train,” which runs lazily—too lazily at times—between Casablanca and Matanzas year-round, three times a day. The train has its origins in a chocolate bar and was born when Cuba was on a sugar high. Before the Revolution, the Hershey estates belonging to the Pennsylvania-based chocolate company occupied 69 square miles of lush cane-fields around a modern sugarfactory town, or batey, named Hershey, founded in 1918 with a sugar mill, baseball field, golf course, movie theater, a hotel, and an orphanage—an expression of one of the many good deeds of enlightened industrialist Milton Hershey. The mill closed in 2002 after 86 years in operation and Hershey is now a run-down shell, named since the Revolution for comandante Camilo Cienfuegos. At its peak, the estate near Santa Cruz del Norte had 140 kilometers of rail network. Operating on coal and oil, the original steam locomotives were expensive and their sparks constituted a serious fire hazard. In 1921 they were replaced with seven 60-ton General Electric locomotives built especially for the Hershey-Cuban Railroad, which linked the estate to the port in Havana—the only electrified system ever built in Cuba. Milton Hershey also introduced a three-car Brill electric passenger train service between Havana and Matanzas, operating every hour, to serve his workers. The vermilion Brill engine, which looked like it could have fallen from the pages of a story about Thomas, the little "live" engine, was retired in 1998 and replaced with eight Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com Photos by Christopher P. Baker © antique two-tone-green Sarría electrified cars from 1944, donated by the city of Barcelona. I recall my first journey with fondness. It was a sugar of a journey—a combination of the picturesque and the prosaic—despite the lack of steam rising sibilantly between giant piston rods. I began, as passengers still do, by hopping onto the funky ferry that chugs across Havana harbor to Casablanca from the Muelle de Luz wharf, opposite the Russian Orthodox church, on Avenida del Puerto. “What time do we arrive Matanzas?” I asked, naively. The woman at the ticket counter merely shrugged her shoulders, then closed her eyes and gave me a sideways sour lemon look. Arrival is never guaranteed. Nor is departure! Mechanical failure is common. Loose tracks. Pantographs that come unloose. Substation shorts. The mainline train is sometimes even rerouted to complete trips via branch lines that connect to Guanabo, Canasi, and Santa Cruz del Norte. Sometimes the breakdowns can last days or weeks, when “No train service until further notice” is scrawled onto ticket office chalk-boards. The gold-leaf lettering on the two rusted carriages had long since faded, as had the exterior green-and-beige itself, and the hard wooden seats, many broken, were guaranteed to turn the most inured ass to stone. The conductor tooted the horn two minutes before departure and a mad rush to board ensued. The train jolted to life. As we gathered speed slowly, stragglers jumped aboard, like hobos hopping freight. Some even jumped up into the operator's cab. Soon we were creaking along the harborfront with the pantographs singing merrily overhead and the rhythmic rattling of the rails beneath, interspersed with a frequent page 3 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! Stopping at places whose names themselves appeared from a dream: Concuní, Corral Nuevo, Dos Mangos. The conductor displayed a laid back approach to protocol or schedule. He stopped wherever and whenever passengers requested, just like an almendrón—the beatup old classic taxis that jug along Havana's streets. Passengers alight via a thin metal staircase directly onto the track. No need to mind the gap with a platform. jolt that made the train shudder. Clickety clack, clickety clack, clickety clack… KLUNK! We juddered to a halt in the middle of nowhere in front of a simple thatch-and-adobe bohío framed by flame-red bougainvillea beneath a tousled Royal palm. I thought the train had broken down. Then a young woman stepped down from the train clutching a newborn child swaddled in blankets. A sun-baked guajiro in tattered straw hat and faded army fatigues pulled himself up from an Adirondack chair beneath the shady eave and emerged into the harsh Cuban sunlight. He strode forward unsteadily, beaming, his arms outspread as if to embrace all the world. The door remained open, providing plenty of breeze, as the locomotive wobbled drunkenly down the track past rusting refineries and factories and finally into the open countryside. Juan, the engineer, liked to let loose on the horn as we approached countless crossings where horsedrawn buggies, cowboys, and old Chevys idled. Always the Chevys! Guajiros—country folk—stopped their farm toil to watch us pass. The whole train looked on as he leaned forward to kiss his granddaughter. She in turn reached down to kiss her young brother, who came hauling up the dusty lane as fast as his long flying legs could carry him. Then the old man reached out and tenderly took the cocooned baby in his rough laborer's hands. Tears fell as he took his first look at his grandchild. A young man, José, strummed guitar while his partner, a lovely 17-year-old girl named Annie, hummed honeysweet melodies, sotto voce. After a mesmerizing four-hour, 92-kilometer journey and scores of stops, you finally arrive at the Versalles station in Matanzas. If you're lucky. “Sing it!” chimed an old lady sitting opposite. The train departs the Estación de Casablanca (Carretera de los Cocos, tel. 07/862-4888), on the north side of Havana harbor at 4:45 am, 12:21 pm, and 4:35 pm. Tickets (CUC1.40 to Hershey; CUC2.80 to Matanzas) go on sale one hour before departure. So she did. Belting out a love song—“De donde viene el amor”—that silenced the entire carriage until it erupted into applause. A guajiro broke out a dirty bottle of aguardiente—cheap sugarcane liquor—and passed it around. Even a disconsolate looking policeman took a swig, while schoolkids too young to be flirting flirted. The original 1927 General Electric trolley-train still runs on Sundays on half-day tourist excursions that include a rustic lunch at Hershey, a farm stop, and a live salsa band to kick you into party mode. Contact Cuba Real Tours, Edificio Bacardí #404, Mo n s e r ra t e # 2 6 1 , Ha b a n a Vi e j a , t e l . 0 7/ 8 6 6 - 4 2 5 1 , www.transhershey.com. Continue to read full article + slideshow Two hours into the journey, we arrived at the eggshell blue station still bearing the Hershey sign on the wall. We stopped just long enough to hop down and snap a few shots for posterity before the train groaned into action again. The train wound in and out among palm-studded hills, sped along the coast within sight of the steel-blue Atlantic, then slipped past swathes of sugarcane as the magnif icent Yumurí Valley heaved into view. We journeyed the quintessential Cuban way, in stop-andgo staccato fashion. Journeying back in time, as it were. Pitching unnervingly at times, like a boat in a storm. Christopher P. Baker travel writer / photographer / moto-journalist / Cuba expert tel 760-327-9879 | cel 760-285-9827 | cpbaker@earthlink.net | www.christopherpbaker.com Lowell Thomas Award 2008 Travel Journalist of the Year Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com page 4 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! Calle 24 @ Calle 19 El Vedado 830-5205 Cuba (Libro) Va! By Conner Gorry Just a month in and Cuba Libro – 'the islands first Englishlanguage bookstore – is proving a wild ride. Quite like Cuba itself, it's chaotic and fun; full of daily randomness like blackouts, fumigation, and marriage proposals; receiving limitless solidarity from family, friends, and strangers; and is a precipitous, perennial learning curve – Cubans are crazy for cappuccino for instance and there's huge demand for music magazines. A day doesn't go by without interesting people dropping in, from DJs and doctors to ambassadors and world travelers, and novel experiences are always unfolding or just about to. Already we've scheduled art shows through January with magnificent exhibits by local artists of drawings, graffiti, even puppets and tapestries, plus the water bottle refill service is catching on. effort and expense (sending this 1-pound book cost $16) to support Cuba Libro. Next time you're in Havana, the coffee is on us! Yesterday, as we told some friends about all the exciting things afoot, they said, 'Cuba Libro has some kind of angel watching over it.' Actually, we have three and everyone who has come in so far has felt them in one way or another. Angels, magic, mana, aloha – whatever you call it, we've got it, not unlike Cuba itself. Follow Cuba Libro developments at our FaceBook page (https://www.facebook.com/cubalibrohav) and on Twitter @cubalibrohavana. Continue to read full article + slideshow Cuba Libro has also sparked a fury of donations from people living here and others who wished they did; we're happy to report that our public has very good taste. The most recent acquisitions include George Eliot and James Joyce, Steinbeck, Stendhal and yes, Our Man in Havana. And just the other day, as we sipped our espressos in the garden with a Cuban philosophy professor, something extraordinary (and historic) happened: a gentleman rode up to our door on a bicycle, extracted a padded manila envelope from his satchel and delivered our first donation sent through the US, and received by the Cuban postal services. It was postmarked August 13, from Northfield, Illinois, and was placed in our hands on August 27th. Big ups to author Libby Fischer Hellmann for going to the Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com page 6 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! ART Galería La Acacia THROUGH NOVEMBER Mariano en contemporáneo is an exhibition of 41 drawings by the Cuban painter Mariano Rodríguez (1912-1990), one of the most important artists of the so-called Havana School. art. ! Centro de Arte Contemporáneo Wifredo Lam Through November Memorias de la obsolescencia is a selection of videos from the Ella Fontanals-Cisneros Collection with works by artists of different nationalities and styles dating from the beginnings of this manifestation to the present day, including Mariana Abramovic, Francys Alÿs, Magdalena Fernández, Ana Mendieta, Song Dong, Cao Fei, Jimmie Durham, Miguel Ángel Ríos and Francesca Woodman. Special emphasis is made on Latin American contemporary art. Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com page 7 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! ART MUSEO NACIONAL DE BELLAS ARTES. CENTRO HISPANO AMERICANO DE CULTURA Sep 3, 3pm Edificio de Arte Cubano Premiere of Mariano, film by Tony Lechuga, with the testimonies of experts involved in the organization of the exhibition Mariano Rodríguez: vuelo y arraigo held this past January at the Museum of Fine Arts as a tribute on the centenary of one of the most significant Cuban artists of the 20th century. Opens Sep 20 Through Sep 16 Edificio de Arte Cubano Almacenes Afuera allows visitors to the museum to see over 150 pieces from colonial times to the present from the museum's collections that have never been out of the vaults before. GALERÍA SERVANDO Opens Sep 6 Spin en Cuba-Appaloosa, show by artist Glauber Ballestero. VITRINA DE VALONIA Opens Sep 18 Selección natural, by Ana Iris Texidor, who based on the style of Japanese manga, depicts peculiarities of urban tribes which may nullify individualities. The diversity of techniques, themes and aesthetics has characterized the Ceramics Biennial and contributed to revitalize the interest in this art. This year's competition will focus on vessels (sets and installations), panels and tiles. In addition to the competition, an exhibition of the work of ceramist Fernando Velázquez Torres, prizewinner at previous Ceramic Biennials, will be held. FACTORÍA HABANA Opens Sep 20 D'DISEGNO. Respuesta cubana! is a collection of pieces by artists involved in artistic design: Adriana Arronte, Marlén Castellanos, DeKuba, Daniel DeMilán, Liliam Dooley, Mayelín Guevara, Gabriel Lara (Gabo), Celia Ledón, Octavio César Marín, Gean Moreno, Fabián Muñoz, Ernesto Oroza, Nelson Ponce, Luis Ramírez, Yimit Ramírez, Roberto Ramos, Idania del Río, Edel Rodríguez (Mola), Jorge Rodríguez (R10), Eduardo Sarmiento, Eric Silva, José Ángel Toirac, Raúl Valdés (Raupa) and Arantza Vilas. Stainless, Sierra del Rosario art gallery This creative group made up of artists Alejandro Piñeiro and Roberto Fabelo Hung, young graduates of the San Alejandro Fine Arts Academy, who go by the name of Stainless, exhibit a sample of their work at the brand new Sierra del Rosario art gallery. For the critic Nelson Herrera Ysla, "the results [of their work] are so attractive that the viewer is often tempted to touch the pieces and the materials used, and delight in them with both hands and eyes...They are artists of the here and now, situated amidst a changing Cuban reality, and who, free of prejudices, assume new languages or traditional ones from the extraordinary legacy of the 20th century. Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com page 8 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! PHOTOGRAPHY Al fin… el mar SALA DE LA DIVERSIDAD THROUGH SEPTEMBER 21 Al fin…el mar is an exhibition of submarine photographs, most of which have never been shown before, taken from 1963 to 1976 by the mythical Cuban photographer Alberto Korda whose photograph of Che Guevara is famous worldwide. MI CUBA 2008-2012 CASA OSWALDO GUAYASAMÍN OPENS SEP 17 Exhibition by Chilean Fernando Morandé of 30 black and white photographs that reflect a poetic view of different cities of the eastern part of Cuba. FOTOTECA DE CUBA Through September 21 PALACIO DE LOMBILLO OBRAS CONTEMPORÁNEAS An exhibition of some of the most important photographs from the Fototeca's collection by contemporary artists. Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com Opens Sep 12 INVENTARIO ÍNTIMO Architect and photographer María Eugenia López Show exhibits 18 small and mediumsized pictures created through digital printing. page 9 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! PHOTOGRAPHY Eduardo Hernández Santos: Poignant, controversial, brilliant by Ricardo Alberto Born in Havana in 1966, Eduardo Hernández Santos is one of the most controversial Cuban photographers and printmakers of the generation of the 1990s. A pioneer of the gay theme in photography in Cuba, his work stands out for the boldness with which he addresses some of the dilemmas faced by this sector of society. During the 1990s, a group of Cuban artists burst in and expanded photography in Cuba away from solely documentary value. Born in Havana in 1966, Eduardo Hernández Santos is one of the most controversial members of this generation who has provided a legitimate voice with authenticity, devotion and pain that cannot be feigned. In more than 20 years of photography and printmaking, Eduardo Hernández Santos has challenged Cuba's post-Revolution iconography. His work celebrates male beauty and openly discusses homosexuality and transgenderism. For Hernández Santos (a graduate of the San Alejandro Art Academy in 1985 and of the Higher Institute of Art in 1990), the fact that he chose photography as the vehicle to express his views does not respond to superficial matters, but is rather the result of having grasped the potential of photography, not only for its capacity to document reality, but also for its immediacy, dealing an accurate blow and creating a stronger and more direct impression, which ultimately involves both the work and the viewer. Santos Hernández is aware that photography, unlike other artistic manifestations, leaves little room for ambiguity. Rather, it is a direct and poignant form of expression, appealing directly to individuals and their institutions. With the exhibition Homo=Ludens (1993), Eduardo Hernández Santos imposed upon himself an ambitious goal, a thorny and difficult path, but which also heralded a sincere and admirable way of advocating an aesthetic and conceptual future under very difficult circumstances. Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com Thus, the bodies depicted in his photographs entered a state of revelation, wholesome bodies, ready, cut like fruits or vegetables in order to provocatively enhance the most crucial aspects of their beauty. Santos at times has resorted to photo-collage, a medium which, according to Santos, gives him access to simultaneity, juxtaposition, overlapping, and particularly deconstruction, which has become a powerful weapon for him. All this is triggered by the seduction of being able to confer new meanings to things, to passionately take them apart only to reconstruct them from an intelligent perspective. Used responsibly by Eduardo during the last decade, photo collage experienced a profound moment for creative intervention in his Fragmentos clásicos [Classic Fragments] (1998), in which the bodies of the models are cut out from their original habitat and relocated-clearly expressed in the title of the series-in classical scenarios that never tire of evoking the splendor of an increasingly distant antiquity. The 21st century surprised the artist in the process of creating a wonderful series: A propósito, las flores [By the way, flowers] (2000). Each photographic composition reminds me of a written text. Each area of the body and each part of the flower question each other like voices unheard before, now clashing with each other, submerged. The dialogues are sheer friction, energy from the scrapings, interpretations which lie below this preconceptual crust that mutilates our freedom to choose. The year 2002 saw the series Corpus-frágile, in which the body is no longer intact-how could it be when the range of the artist is apparently connected to a society that often breaks or cracks? They are telluric movements, at times painful, which longingly recover in the space of their representation. Consequently, we remain in the presence of bodies which have been intervened, metaphorized, and pursued by fragments of a different nature. At this point, page 10 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! he is harassed, submitted to the pressure of a guilt which is not his, but of his former tormentors who tried to make him vulnerable, to traverse or stigmatize him seeking to break his enormous spirit which he continues to exhibit with pride. In 2004, he exhibited Strong at La Casona gallery. In these photographs, the violence received by these bodies and the violence with which they respond is even greater. Here he exhibits a profound humanity, a tear, an aggression which transcends the conflict of gender and sexual orientation, and shows us a completely alienated world that stalks us. Turning back the clock a few years, I would also like to highlight Espejismos [Mirages] (1999), an extremely disturbing collection of great semantic wealth. Cohabited by bitterness and humor in total estrangement, it depicts an oneiric atmosphere of tasteful density, initially lavishing silence and later, perhaps, a stream of echoes that were once powerful sounds of languages lost in the environs of dreams and wakefulness. The project El muro [The Wall] (2005) can be construed as a moment of true splendor in the work of Santos Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com Hernández. Here, the protagonists are clothed, representing characters typical of Havana's nightlife, which has changed as much as the nation. El muro is a chronicle that exposes this conquered territory from the very entrails of the beings inscribed within it; a testimony that adheres to a powerful textuality represented here by relevant excerpts from Virgilio Piñera's poem La isla en peso [The Entire Island]. The discomfort and frustrations that our insularity is capable of generating and the role played by the famous Malecón Wall in all this plot is highlighted in each of Virgilio's verses, corrosive and agile, ready to make the images even more unvarnished. It is said that the Malecón can be used as a barometer to measure life in Cuba, of our most direct contact with the horizon, the stretch in the city where scandal occurs in the form of a simple mutation. In these cubicles recreated from delirium, there is no place for one or another decree, or for dubious institutional tolerance. What persists behind every picture is the “damned circumstance of being surrounded by water.” Continue to read full article + slideshow page 11 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! DANCE BALLET BALLET NACIONAL DE CUBA SALA AVELLANEDA. TEATRO NACIONAL SEP 14, 8PM; 15, 5PM Concert program: En las sombras de un vals (choreography by Alicia Alonso, music by Josef Strauss); Yo, Tú, Él, Ella (choreography by Regina Hernández, music by Alexia Moore); Me asfixia (choreography by Maysabel Pintado, music by Denis Peralta); Contraconcerto (choreography by Eduardo Blanco, music by Edvard Grieg); Diálogo a 4 (choreography by Alicia Alonso, music by Ignacio Cervantes); Retrato (choreography by Lyvan Verdecia, music by Yan Tiersen-Zoe Keanting) and Majísimo (choreography by Jorge García, music by Jules Massenet). DRACULA SALA AVELLANEDA. TEATRO NACIONAL SEPTEMBER 6-8, 8:30 PM The Laura Alonso Ballet presents its well-liked version of Dracula, a love story whose roots go back to the 15th century yet still haunts us today. TRIBUTO A EL MONTE TEATRO MELLA SEP 6-7, 8:30PM; 8, 5PM The Rosario Cárdenas Company premieres Tributo a El Monte, a tribute to Cuban anthropologist Lydia Cabrera. The one-hour show combines dance with film scenes and the performances of the rap group Fuera de Norma and DJ Iván Lejardi. Music by Juan Piñera. EL BALLET ESPAÑOL DE CUBA SALA AVELLANEDA. TEATRO NACIONAL 20-22 DE SEPTIEMBRE, 8:30 P.M.; 23, 5:00 P.M. El Ballet Español de Cuba presentará Iluminados por la danza, con coreografías de bailarines españoles y de Eduardo Veitía, director de la compañía. El programa anuncia dos estrenos: Sonata, del joven bailarín español Pablo Egea, del Ballet Nacional de España, en el que debutarán como solistas las bailarinas Rachel Escalona y María Batule, y Soleá por bulerías, del propio Egea, interpretado por toda la compañía. Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com page 12 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! DANCE Photos by Alexander Mene © The longest rumba in the world at Timbalaye 2013 by John Waterhouse V ENCUENTRO RUMBA CUBANA TIMBALAYE 2013 The International Cuban Rumba Festival took place at various locations in Havana and Matanzas last month (August 2013) and despite several soakings from the inclement weather, it served as a great showcase for rumba as popular culture and not just a historical idiosyncrasy. “At first, Cuban rumba smelled of solares, black people, sugar-cane syrup, wooden boxes and drums. Today, the aroma is different, but it maintains the mixed-race beat that defines us, the Caribbean sensuality that sets us apart and the irreverent party spirit that marked its birth over 200 years ago.” Rumba is one of the most authentic manifestations in Cuban culture. Widely popular and 100% Cuban, it was born as a process of hybridization of elements of different origins, in which the legacy of African cultures played a predominant role while it exhibited significant Spanish components. It emerged in Cuba in the late 19th century, and developed after the abolition of slavery. More than a music and dance representation, rumba is a Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com way of life, a philosophy that contains a mystique connected to religions and affiliations. It does not need specific instruments--the clapping of hands is enough to get a rumba going. For the people in the neighborhoods and in the streets, rumba is suited to their lives, to their emotions. And this is what Timbalaye, a yoruba word that refers to feasible dreams and projects, is all about. Timbalaye 2013 included seminars on salsa, rumba and Afro-Cuban dances; courses on singing and percussion; lectures on music and anthropology; Cuban popular dance competitions; theatre and dance performances; and the presentation of the Fernando Ortiz-Timbalaye Prizes to the best rumba group, singer, dancer and conga player of the event as well as the best essay on Cuban rumba. Sponsored by the AHS, the Union of Writers and Artists of Cuba and the Fernando Ortiz Foundation, Timbalaye also honored one of the great exponents of the rumba, Gonzalo Ascencio, known as Uncle Tom. Events took place in Casa de la Cultura Habana (see pictures above), The America Theatre, the Cuba Pavilion, the Salón Rosado (La Tropical) and the Rumba Palace. Continue to read full article + slideshow page 13 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! MUSIC CONTEMPORARY FUSION & ELECTRONIC The contemporary fusion and electronic music scene has fragmented somewhat over recent months as new bars and clubs have opened and a number of promoters of one off parties have established themselves. While we have made a few suggestions and reviewed some of last month's best parties really you will simply have to keep your ear to the ground and try and get and get on the text list. We will post on our facebook page https://www.facebook.com/pages/CubaAbsolutely/117958641550184 details when we have them. CAFÉ CANTANTE MI HABANA. TEATRO NACIONAL CENTRO CULTURAL FRESA Y CHOCOLATE Tuesdays, 5pm Golden performances by Descemer Bueno, Kelvis Ochoa and David Torrens Mon, 10:30pm Wednesdays, 5pm Performances by the popular band Qva Libre Thursdays 10pm PIANO BAR DELIRIO HABANERO Thursdays, 4pm CAFÉ LA RAMPA Wichy D´Vedado, one of the most famous DJs in Havana, who plays the best of world music. Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com Dj Wichy del Vedado, uno de los más famosos Djs de La Habana, con lo mejor de música World. Performances by Tammy and Pura Cepa CASA DE LA MÚSICA DE MIRAMAR Fridays, 5pm With Son as the foundation of their music, the band Klimax, directed by Giraldo Piloto, incorporates elements from jazz, pop, rap, punk, and Caribbean rhythms. page 14 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! MUSIC Dj Turcios is in the house at Bar Somavilla by Eduard Marble American Dj Derek Turcios, a young exponent of the “new sound of New York,” visited Cuba for the first time this past August, 2013. As part of his three-day tour of the city, he played at the Somavilla, a new private restaurant-bar in a Vedado penthouse, with Djoy de Cuba and Bjoyce under the auspices of Analógica Project. The Cuban DJs opened for Turcios, who kept the party going for an audience “with a very genuine energy” from midnight to shortly before 7:00 am. Although DJ Turcios had never played in Cuba before, he said he felt at home and that it was “an experience definitely worth repeating.” DJ Turcios's work is considered eclectic and is acclaimed both in clubs and at raves. He is one of those DJs that know how to work the audience. He has participated in some of the most important electronic music festivals worldwide and has shared the stage with Max Graham, Satoshi Tommie, Chus y Ceballos, The Low End Specialists and DJ Icey, among others. Linked to the new wave of electronic music in the US, he has been defined by critics as an energetic musician who establishes an incredible connection with his audiences. DJ Turcios's open, heterodox and multiethnic philosophy of electronic music is shown in the way he incorporates different rhythms. An example of this is his piece Tambor de Yemayá, which successfully mixes electronic music with the legends of Afro-Cuban tradition. Havana rocked to the beat of DJ Turcio's music for three days, and it will surely happen again on his next visit to Cuba. He is now friends with the Cuban people and that's a bond that will only grow stronger. Continue to read full article + slideshow Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com page 15 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! MUSIC Back to school party at Jardines de la Tropical with Sarao by Sophia Beckman If you want a high-octane party full of 'real' Cuban young people, then try and find out when the next Sarao party is. Sarao is the name for a Cuban party-promoting group who are currently putting together some of the best parties in Havana. My favorite during August was held at the Jardines de la Tropical and featured an energy and life hard to keep up with. Pulsating electronic dance music until the early hours of the following morning. A number of producers and techno artists are responsible for the creation of Sarao. Dj Ra, originally a hip-hop artist who successfully transitioned to electronic music, was the mastermind behind the Sarao Project, which first saw the light at the Jardines de la Tropical in 2009. Other techno musicians involved in Sarao from its beginnings are Iván Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com Lejardi, a self-taught techno artist and producer as well as tireless promoter of electronic music through a combination of audio and visual arts, graphic design and diverse forms of Cuban contemporary art; and DJ Obi, who prefers minimal techno and tech house. Back to school, maybe-but don't expect the parties to stop! Opens: 8pm Admission fee: 20.00 MN Jardines de La Tropical Calle Rizo y Final, Puentes Grandes. Marianao. Continue to read full article + slideshow page 16 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! MUSIC Café Jazz Miramar (cine Miramar ), Calle 5ta Esquina A 94, Miramar Playa. Opens 2pm - Shows: 10:30pm - 2 Am - Cover: 50.00 Mn Or Cuc 2.00 This new jazz club has quickly established itself as one of the very best places to hear some of Cuba's best musicians jamming. Forget about smoke filled lounges, this is clean, bright – take the fags outside. While it is difficult to get the exact schedule and in any case expect a high level of improvisiation when it is good it is very good. A full house is something of a mixed house since on occasion you will feel like holding up your own silence please sign! Nonetheless it gets the thumbs up from us. Sept 15 Domingo Joven, con jóvenes jazzistas Sept 17 David Faya (contrabajista) y su grupo Camino de Santiago Sept 18 Sara Jazz Sept 19 Jam Session con Carlos Miyares (saxofonista) e invitados Sept 20 Jam por Oshun, con Julito Padrón (trompetista), Santa Amalia Friend´s e invitados Aldo López-Gavilán (pianista y compositor) y su banda Sept 21 Roberto Carcassés (pianista y compositor), su trío e invitados Sept 10 Yadasny Portillo (pianista y compositor) y el grupo Cauce Sept 22 Sept 11 Sarao Jazz Voces del Jazz: Emir Santacruz (clarinetista y saxofonista) con su banda y cantantes invitadas Sept 12 Pablo Menéndez (guitarrista y compositor) y su grupo Mezcla Sept 24 David Alfaro (pianista), su banda e invitados Sept 13 Sexto Sentido (cuarteto vocal femenino) Sept 25 Sarao Jazz Sept 26 Sexto Sentido (cuarteto vocal femenino) Sept 27 Roberto Carcassés (pianista y compositor), su trío e invitados PROGRAM Sept 4 Sarao Jazz Sept 5 Héctor Quintana (guitarrista) y su banda Sept 6 Carlos Miyares (saxofonista) y su grupo Sept 7 Sept 8 Sept 14 Roberto Carcassés (pianista y compositor), su trío e invitados Roberto Carcassés (pianista y compositor), su trío e invitados HURÓN AZUL, UNEAC Sep 12, 2pm Peña La Esquina del Jazz, hosted by showman Bobby Carcassés. CASA DEL ALBA Sep 14, 8pm CAFÉ JAZZ MIRAMAR Ruy López-Nussa (percussionist) and La Academia. Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com Saturdays, 11pm Regular shows with Roberto Carcassés, pianist and composer page 17 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! MUSIC JAZZ Roberto Fonseca & 'Yo' at Teatro Mella By Luica Lamadrid Fonseca refuses his music to be pigeonholed as AfroCuban jazz or Latin jazz. “My music is open,” he explains, pointing out influences of rock, soul, classical music (to which he is devoted), pop, rap, traditional Cuban country music, and Afro-Cuban music. “I do not think of myself as a jazz player but rather a romantic musician, who expresses what he feels through the piano,” he says. On stage, dressed in exclusive wardrobes designed by French designer Agnès B., he has played with famous musicians such as Bebo and Chucho Valdés, Herbie Hancock, Michael Brecker and Wayne Shorter. Roberto Fonseca is one of most brilliant jazz musicians to come out of Cuba. His talent runs through his blood: his father, Roberto Fonseca Sr., was a drummer and his mother, Mercedes Cortés Alfaro, is a singer. He has two older half-brothers, drummer Emilio Valdés and the pianist Jesús “Chuchito” Valdés Jr. from his mother's previous marriage to none other than the legendary jazz pianist Chucho Valdés. At age four, Fonseca started out playing drums but eventually switched to piano and stuck with it. He was only 15 years old when he astonished the crowds at Havana's “Jazz Plaza” Festival in 1991. A really bad student when he was younger, as Fonseca has admittedly said, he now holds a master's degree in composition from the prestigious University of Arts. In his new CD, Yo, the influence of electronic music is much more noticeable. He changed his usual jazz quintet and experimented with electronic, analog and African music. Hammond organs, congas, n'goni, kora and talking drums are combined in a synthesis of Afro Cuban groove and Griot tradition. A total of fifteen musician participated in the production of the album Yo, including musicians Baba Sissoko, Sekou Kouyate, Fatoumata Diawara, Étienne M'Bappé and Munir Hossn, as well as Ramsés Rodríguez and Joel Hierrezuelo, long-time collaborators of Fonseca's. Additionally, singers Assane Mboup from Senegal and Faudel from Algeria, and renowned hip-hop artist Mike Ladd from Australia lent their voices to Fonseca's latest project. Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com After a successful tour around Europe to promote his latest album, Yo, this past August, Roberto Fonseca and the band Temperamento presented the album in Cuba with a concert at the Mella Theater in Havana, where people crowded to see Fonseca reunited with Temperamento once again. The concert lived up to the audience's expectations and drew standing ovations from an audience that demanded nothing but the best from the musicians-Fonseca's virtuosity and natural magnetism; Javier Zalba's mastery of the sax, the clarinet and whatever wind instrument you may think of; Chicoy's and Ramsés 'Dinamita' Rodríguez's stunning performances at the guitar and drums, respectively; and the talents of guest singer Pedro 'El Nene' Lugo and trumpet player Roberto García. Additionally, this was the first concert in which Fonseca included a dance act. With a superb choreography by Eduardo Blanco, the piece chosen for the successful experiment was “Danza del Espíritu” (Dance of the Spirit). Also, a tribute was paid to the Cuban actress and singer Rita Montaner on her 113 anniversary when, radio in hand, Fonseca sat on the edge of the stage listening to Rita's most well-known song: El manisero (The Peanut Vendor). The concert was also the presentation in Cuba of the Tradicional Project, which is their view of Cuban traditional music. According to Fonseca, they want to present this music with new sounds, making their own versions, which include electronic instruments. They do not plan to be the second Buena Vista Social Club or a new Buena Vista generation. Roberto Fonseca at the piano triggers strong and memorable emotions in his audiences. The piano becomes part of his body or he becomes part of the piano. Either way and luckily for us, Fonseca's love affair with the piano is no secret and he lets us into this intimate part of his life. Continue to read full article + slideshow page 18 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! MUSIC BOLERO, FOLKLORIC, SON & TROVA SANTIAGO FELIÚ CAFE CANTANTE FRIDAYS, 11 PM In “Lo que la radio nos dejó” or What the Radio Left Us, singersongwriter Santiago Feliú performs cover versions of Spanish rock and pop music from the 60s and 70s along with American and British rock music that were very much in vogue in Cuba at the time. CASA DEL ALBA Sep 6, 8pm MUSEO NACIONAL DE LA MÚSICA With his beautiful and powerful voice, Eduardo Sosa and guests perform highlights of the best Cuban trova of all time. CENTRO IBEROAMERICANO DE LA DÉCIMA Sep 7, 3pm Sep 29, 4pm Performance by the duet Ad Libitum. El Jardín de la Gorda with the performances of trovadores from every generation. Sep 18, 5pm Concert with singer-songwriter Tony Ávila. CASA BALEAR Sep 20, 5pm Tardes de Boleros, hosted by singer Maureen García. CAFÉ TEATRO BERTOLT BRECHT Sep 27, 4pm A Bolero Puro, with Rafael Espín and guests. CASA MEMORIAL SALVADOR ALLENDE CASA DE LA CULTURA DE PLAZA Sep 14, 7pm Peña with Marta Campos, renowned singer of contemporary songs with a trova feel to them HURÓN AZUL, UNEAC Sep 14, 10pm Mundito González is one of the most popular Cuban bolero singers. JARDINES DEL TEATRO MELLA Sep 14, 5pm Trova by Jade and her group. Sep 27, 6:00 pm Peña La Juntamenta, with trovador Ángel Quintero and guests CENTRO CULTURAL PABLO DE LA TORRIENTE BRAU Sep 28, 5pm A Guitarra Limpia is a meeting with trovadors accompanied only by their guitars. MUSEO NACIONAL DE BELLAS ARTES Sep 28, 7pm Edificio de Arte Cubano Concert with flamenco singer Andrés Correa. LA PÉRGOLA. MINISTERIO DE CULTURA Sep 29, 6pm Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com Performances by trovadores Samuel Ávila and Diego Cano page 19 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! MUSIC BOLERO, FOLKLORIC, SON & TROVA ASOCIACIÓN YORUBA DE CUBA CASA DE LA MÚSICA DE MIRAMAR Fridays, 8:30pm Performance by the folkloric group Obiní Batá. Saturdays, 5 pm Sundays, 4pm Performance by the folkloric group Los Ibellis. La Utopía combines live performances by troubadours, impromptu performances by the audience, and videos of important domestic and international musicians of the past 50 years. ASOCIACIÓN YORUBA DE CUBA Wednesdays, 11 pm Performance by Elaín Morales. CENTRO CULTURAL FRESA Y CHOCOLATE Wednesdays, 9pm Musical meeting with young songstress Milada Milhet. CAFÉ CANTANTE, TEATRO NACIONAL Thursdays, 11 pm Performance by Elaín Morales. Saturdays, 10:30pm Performance by Yeni Sotolongo, a young singer who boasts an exceptional voice and varied repertoire. Saturdays, 4 pm Performance by Waldo Mendoza, one of Cuba's most popular singers today. Sundays, 6pm Performances by pop idol Adrián Berazaín, who combines pop and rock with Cuban song. CAFÉ CONCERT ADAGIO Thursdays, 10 pm Performances by Maylú, the allround singer of the moment, whose repertoire goes from arias of famous operas to Cuban, Latin American and international pop hits. PIANO BAR TUN TUN Thursdays, 5 pm (Casa de la Música de Miramar) A meeting with Ray Fernández. DIABLO TUN TUN Saturdays, 5 pm JARDINES DEL 1830 Tue & Thu, 8:30pm; Tue & Thu, 8:30pm Performance by one of the most popular bands in Cuba, Moncada will play an extensive repertoire of Cuban and Latin American music. PIANO BAR DELIRIO HABANERO Wednesdays, 4pm Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com Performance by the singersongwriter Ihosvany Bernal. A get-together with Vocalité and guests. page 20 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! MUSIC RAP, HIP-HOP LA SESIÓN AT DELIRIO HABANERO TEATRO NACIONAL FRIDAYS, 5PM Cuba's newest spot for rap lovers, La Sesión includes rap as well as the best DJs in Havana, singers and musicians from other genres as well as visual artists and actors from the stage. Shows are hosted by the Cuban actress Edenis Sanchez and rapper Bárbaro “El urbano” Vargas. La Sesión is sure to become the rap/hip-hop's spot in the Cuban capital. CANCHA DE COJÍMAR MAQUETA DE LA HABANA Sep 14 2:00pm Sep 28 5:00pm Anónimo Consejo and Brebaje Man. Hermanazos. ROCK CAFÉ CANTANTE, TEATRO NACIONAL CASA DE LA MÚSICA DE MIRAMAR Sundays 4:00pm Saturdays 5:00pm Los Kents, a “dinosaur” of Cuban rock, play their hits from the 60s and 70s. Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com Performance by the rock band Gens. page 21 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! MUSIC ROCK Brutal Fest's 2013 Cuba festival by John Walters A festival that insisted on letting the world know that Cuban music is not only salsa and reggaeton, but also has a heavy metal tradition with enthusiastic fans Brutal Fest takes place twice a year (originally it was done only in February, but because it has been so successful, it was done again in August this year) and is the most important international metal music festival in Cuba. It consists in a 10-day tour of Cuba with both Cuban and 6-7 international bands. Organized by the French Brutal Beatdown Record Label in association with the Agencia Cubana de Rock (Cuban Rock Agency) and the Instituto Cubano de la Música (Cuban Institute of Music), this year's festival included Cuban bands Combat Noise, Dead Point, Estigma DC, Mephisto, Switch, Metastasys and Tendencia, plus Mortuary, Cowards and S-Core from France, Splattered Mermaids from Sweden, Severe from Belgium, and Dezaztre Natural from Chile. Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com The festival traveled to six other cities (Santa Clara, Holguín, Camagüey, Pinar del Río, Bayamo and Sancti Spíritus) besides Havana, which was very much appreciated by fans everywhere. Since 2012, Tattoo's Party runs parallel to Brutal Fest and is held at Maxim Rock in Havana, headquarters of the Cuban Rock Agency and Brutal Fest. This tattoo convention and contest is organized by Brutal Beatdown Recs, Toy Store Producciones and the Cuban Rock Agency and has been gaining in popularity ever since. The event was organized by the French Brutal Beatdown Record Label with the collaboration of the Cuban Rock Agency and the Cuban Institute of Music. It was also sponsored by the Institute Français, the French Embassy in Cuba, Havana Club Internacional, Cuba Autrement and Los Portales. Continue to read full article + slideshow page 22 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! MUSIC CLASSICAL BASÍLICA MENOR DE SAN FRANCISCO DE ASÍS 6:00pm Sep 7 Sep 14 Concert of French music with Frank Ernesto Fernández (oboe), Karla Martínez (piano), Alejandro Calzadilla (clarinet) and Abraham Castillo (bassoon). Sep 21 Pianist Huberal Herrera will pay tribute to two outstanding Cuban composers: Hubert de Blanck and Ernesto Lecuona. Sep 28 The chorus Entrevoces, conducted by Digna Guerra, will offer a program of made up Cuban and Latin American works and negro spirituals. Sep 21 The chamber choir Vocal Leo in concert, conducted by Corina Campos. Sep 28 Espacio Voces Nuevas, dircted by the soprano and teacher María Eugenia Barrios, showcases rising stars of the Cuban lyrical stage. The pianist Ernán López-Nussa and his trio have invited Roberto García (trumpet) and Orlando Sánchez (sax) to play pieces by López-Nussa, Pablo Milanés and Silvio Rodríguez, among other composers. ORATORIO SAN FELIPE NERI 4:00pm Sep 7 Sep 14 Cuban pianist and composer Eralys Fernández has invited Brazilian cellist Diego Carneiro to share a recital with works of her own as well as works by Beethoven, Debussy and Astor Piazzolla. A selection of zarzuelas and of the opera Marina, by the Spanish composer Emilio Arrieta, in the voice of tenor Ramón Centeno, accompanied by the pianist Vilma Garriga. Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com page 23 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! MUSIC CLASSICAL IGLESIA DE PAULA 5:00pm Sep 13 The Ars Longa Early Music Ensemble, conducted byTeresa Paz, have announced the program Imaginarios sonoros de lo africano en Iberoamérica en los siglos XVII y XVIII, based on African sounds in 17th- and 18th-century Ibero-America. Sep 20 Bolero vs. Fandango, by the Ars Longa Early Music Ensemble, is based on the music in Spain during the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Sep 27 Several pieces by the German Baroque composer Georg Philipp Telemann and Czech composer Jan Dismas Zelenka will be played by musicians of the Ars Longa Early Music Ensemble. Sep 15 Concert with pianist Manuel Matarrita, trumpet player Juan Carlos Meza and tenor Ernesto Rodríguez. Sep 22 The D'Accord duo (Vicente Monterrey, clarinet, and Marita Rodríguez, piano), and the Santa Cecilia wind quintet will play overtures and arias by Verdi and Rossini, as well as pieces by Grieg, Dvořák, Lefebvre, Chausson and Rimski Korsakov. Sep 29 De Nuestra América, a project directed by pianist Alicia Perea. Sep 16 Performance by Costa Rican musicians Edín Solís (guitar), Eduardo Martín (guitar), Galy Martín (guitar), Ricardo Ramírez (violin) and Alejandro Martínez (cello). SALA IGNACIO CERVANTES 5:00pm Sep 8 Sep 13 The pianist Marlon Bordas and young guest musicians (jazz trio of piano, bass and drums plus guitar, trombone, trumpet and Cuban percussion) will offer an interesting program which aims to break with prototypes. Concert by pianist Manuel Matarrita, tenor Ernesto Rodríguez and the Ballet Folclórico de Nicoya.as part of the Costa Rica Cultural Meeting. CASA DEL ALBA CULTURAL 5:00pm Sep 8 En Confluencia, project directed by Eduardo Martín. Sep 15 Tarde de Concierto, project directed by the soprano Lucy Provedo. SALA CHE GUEVARA. CASA DE LAS AMÉRICAS 5:00pm Sep 14 Concert by the Costa Rican group Edithus, who combine modern jazz with traditional jazz, new age and classical music, Latin American music and technical effects. Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com page 24 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! MUSIC CLASSICAL 5th Leo Brouwer Chamber Music Festival Organized by the Leo Brouwer Office, the 5th Leo Brouwer Chamber Music Festival will be held from September 24 to October 13, 2013. For the first time, it will leave Havana and travel to the city of Santiago de Cuba where the splendid Sala Dolores theater has been chosen to receive the prestigious Cuban and international musicians from September 24-26. Tribute will be paid to Cuban composer Harold Gramatges and a lecture will be given on the rich musical heritage of Santiago de Cuba. The lecture will be illustrated with performances by the Orfeón de Santiago and the Orquesta Sinfónica de Oriente. Although the focus of the festival is naturally chamber music, the event also includes debates, talks, film showings, exhibitions and book, CD and launchings. From September 28 to October 13, the festival will be back in Havana. Its organizers have announced the participation of musicians from ten different countries plus over forty world and national premieres. Two exhibitions, Memorias de un Festival (Memories of a Festival), with photographs by Gabriel Guerra Bianchini, Iván Soca and Silvio Rodríguez, and En Viaje con Calvino (Traveling with Calvino) by Marco Marini, will open at Sala de la Diversidad on September 30, 5:30 pm. The exhibitions are a tribute to the renowned Italian author Italo Calvino, born in Santiago de las Vegas, Cuba, on the 90th anniversary of his birth. Later that same day, at 7:00 pm, Iglesia de Paula has been chosen for the concert Órgano Plus with organist Vincent Bernhardt and double bassist Victor Soto, along with musicians from Il Delirio Fantástico and the Ars Longa Early Music Ensemble, who will play pieces by Arnolt Schlick, Michelangelo Rossi, Louis Couperin, Dietrich Buxtehude, Johann Sebastian Bach, Antonio Vivaldi and from the Robertsbridge Codex. Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com The Centro Hispano-Americano de Cultura will show a series of videos on opera from September 25, Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays at 3:00 pm A special highlight in this year's festival will be the participation of guitarist and composer Paco de Lucía. It has been 26 years since his last performance in Cuba and Brouwer explained that although De Lucía had always longed to return to Cuba, his tight schedule had always kept him from doing so. At 65, Paco de Lucía is considered one of the best guitarists worldwide and has received many awards in his career, including the 2004 Prince of Asturias Award. The much acclaimed Spanish musician will receive the 2013 Cubadisco, the most important music award in Cuba. The Cuban composer Leo Brouwer, who has been acknowledged as one of the living geniuses of classical music in the international arena, has been, since its inception, the heart and soul of the festival through his supervision and total devotion. With regard to the festival, Brouwer has said: “Our policy is not figure-oriented, but rather repertoire-oriented…We have the privilege of having excellent Cuban musicians and first-rate young artists performing the best versions that exist in this regard, perhaps not the only ones, but certainly the best.” Leo Brouwer (Havana, 1939) has created more than 300 musical pieces and is currently the composer of classical music whose scores are most performed in the world, according to the SGAE (General Association of Authors and Publishers). Continue to read full article + slideshow page 25 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! THEATER & PERFORMING ARTS LAS LÁGRIMAS NO HACEN RUIDO AL CAER TEATRO DEL EDIFICIO DE ARTE CUBANO. MUSEO NACIONAL DE BELLAS ARTES SEPTEMBER 12-14, 7PM Monse Duany is the legendary Cuban singer Guadalupe Yolí-La Lupe-in the monologue Las lágrimas no hacen ruido al caer by the late playwright Alberto Pedro. Monse Duany is versatility itself: She creates situations of humor and anguish, joy and sadness, understanding and impotence. She sings, dances, recites, dreams, shouts, cries, falls in love, suffers… She is the kind of actress that exudes energy and passion. SALA TITO JUNCO. CENTRO BERTOLT BRECHT SALA EL SÓTANO Tue, Wed & Thu 8:30pm Fri & Sat 8:30pm Fri & Sat 8:30pm; Sun, 5pm Premiere of La paz perpetua, by Spanish playwright Juan Mayorga, by Compañía del Cuartel. The play uses irony, mockery and the externalization of violence to define the power/subordination relationship among the warring characters Mefisto Teatro, directed by Tony Díaz, presents Muerte en el bosque, based on a novel by Cuban novelist Leonardo Padura. TEATRO RAQUEL REVUELTA Fri, Sat & Sun, 8:30pm Teatro D´Dos will be presenting the 20th-century classic The Zoo Story, by American playwright Edward Albee. This one-act play is a heart-rending tragedy of the consequences of intolerance and lack of communication. Sat & Sun, 6:00pm Delantal todo sucio de huevos, a play by Brazilian playwright Marcos Barbosa and produced by Teatro de Dos, is a half realist, half expressionist portrait of the daily drama that any ordinary family may potentially lead. Here, a traditional family is faced with the return of their son turned into a woman after 20 years of absence from home. Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com Sun 5:00pm Opens Sep 14 Teatro del Silencio presents El Cerco by Cuban playwright Rubén Sicilia, in which three characters in a garbage dump reproduce universal conflicts, such as power, oppression, individual responsibility in this play that is part theater of cruelty and dirty realism SALA ADOLFO LLAURADÓ Tue, Wed & Thu, 6:00pm Teatro del Puerto presents this play by the Cuban director and playwright Abelardo Estorino, directed and performed by Milva Benítez Reinoso. The play is a contemporary reinterpretation of the classical character of Greek mythology Medea, who carries out a dialogue with the visions of other playwrights, who hint at issues of Cuban reality today, such as immigration. page 26 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! THEATER & PERFORMING ARTS Goldfish: an ironic and irreverent look into reality by Eduard Marble Goldfish is an ironic and irreverent look into reality. Written by young Cuban playwrights William Ruiz and Alejandro Arango and, produced by Reynier Rodríguez Vázquez and performed by actors from the El Ingenio and Teatro de La Luna companies, the play tells the anecdotal story of Pablo--rootless, pyromaniac, sociopath--who has an almost perverse need to find meaning to his life, a meaning that will go beyond banality and that will also be meaningful to others. And this is done through a TV show. Reynier Rodríguez Vázquez, who is making his debut with this play, has said that Goldfish depicts a situation that many people are “victims” of, that is, the media tells you what to do, what to say, what to wear… Nobody escapes from this! And what Goldfish does is criticize the negative part of this issue. The stage of the Trianón Theater, or rather, the entire hall, is transformed into a TV set. The play develops as a talk show or reality show, so the audience will see hostess, guests, live music and even commercial breaks, the latter with Cuban flavor. In the style that characterizes the unscrupulous frivolity that is common to these shows, Goldfish aims to deconstruct Pablo and the context in which he lives. The set design, the wardrobe and the music, which are crucial to this production, have all been perfectly handled. Meanwhile, the cast is perfect in their roles, especially Yordanka Ariosa in the role of the hostess, Despite some ups and downs in the pace of the play, audiences will find that Goldfish is funny while it analyses serious issues and is well worth seeing Playing during September 2013 at Sala teatro Trianón Fri & Sat, 8:30pm; Sun, 5pm Continue to read full article + slideshow Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com page 27 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! OTHER EVENTS IN HAVANA FESTIVAL DE RADIO Y TELEVISIÓN CUBA 2013 PALACIO DE CONVENCIONES, HAVANA SEP 9-13 The event will include shows, exhibitions, free performances, workshops, master classes, and theoretical meetings. An expo/trade fair will also be held, in which production companies, television channels, radio stations, specialized entities and firms will be able to exhibit and sell equipment, technology, products and other materials related to the theme of the event. An international competition of shows and spots for the public good will also take place during the event. www.rtvfestival.icrt.cu CASA TOMADA SEP 17-20 CASA DE LAS AMÉRICAS, HAVANA This meeting of young Latin American artists and writers aims to foster ties and mutual understanding among young creators up to 40 years of age; encourage and promote different ways of conceiving the past, present and future of artistic and intellectual creation in the continent; and publicize the work of recent generations in the region. Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com page 28 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! FOR KIDS ! ECOS DE CIRCUBA 2013 THROUGHOUT SEPTEMBER, THU-SUN, 4PM & 7PM CARPA TROMPOLOCO Cuba's National Circus presents prize-winning acts from the past CIRCUBA 2013 Festival, which includes gymnastics, acrobatics, juggling, tightrope and much more, as well as prizewinners of the Erdwin Fernández In Memoriam International Clown Competition. Carpa Trompoloco: 5ta. Avenida y 112, Miramar, Playa, Tel: 206 5609 ! CASA DE LAS AMÉRICAS SEP 12, 3:30PM Presentation of Comino vence al diablo and Comino va a la huelga, by Mexican playwright Germán List Arzubide, with performances by puppeteers María Luisa de la Cruz, Ailín Guerra and Annia González. TEATRO DE TÍTERES EL ARCA Fri, Sat and Sun, 3pm The El Arca Puppet Theater continues this month with Sueño de una noche de verano based on William Shakespeare's immortal A Midsummer Night's Dream with music by Mendelssohn.. Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com page 29 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! EVENTS IN REST OF CUBA Concurso Naturaleza Digital 2013 SEP 1-6 PROTECTED NATURAL LANDSCAPE, TOPES DE COLLANTES In an ideal landscape for its rich and unique biodiversity, participating photographers will compete in three categories: Landscape, Flora and Fauna, Man and Nature. Pictures will be taken in foot trails chosen among the participants by drawing lots. The trails are La Batata, Codina, Caburní, Vegas Grandes, El Nicho, Camino de la Barbera, Guanayara, El Cubano, Gruta Nengoa and night tours through trails devoted to amphibians. www.gaviota-grupo.com ! Festival Matamoros Son 2013 SEP 16-20 TEATRO HEREDIA, SANTIAGO DE CUBA This festival, which is a tribute to one of the big names of Cuban music, the Santiago de Cuba-native Miguel Matamoros, author of the well-known song Mamá, son de la loma, is a meeting of soloists and bands from all over the island, as well as other countries. Concerts, lectures, dances, workshops, book and CD launches, as well as a Cuban popular dance competition that will include danzón, son, cha-cha-cha, mambo, casino and salsa, will liven up the city, famous for its hospitality. Fiesta de los Orígenes September Matanzas Academicians, researchers and historians will get together to discuss aspects related to the formation of Cuban culture. The program includes lectures, panels, art exhibitions, films, passacaglia and book and magazine launchings. Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com page 30 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! HAVANA’S BEST BARS & CLUBS Sangri-La CALLE 42 Y ESQ. 21, MIRAMAR Sangri-La was the first in the new wave of bars to open in the summer of 2012 and has become the place to be for the young (and not so young) party goers. This is located in the basement of a Miramar mansion up on 11th Avenue (&42nd street). The crowd that comes here is the same one that will make it to Fontana and Melem later. This is the Havana Farándula. Sangri-La is a little more unpredictable than the others and is probably the most interactive with more of an open plan set up encouraging more mixing. There are boothes all around the outside which make a comfortable place to get snacks (or even a full dinner). I have never been convinced by the food here although the non-smoking rule does at least mean that you can eat without tobacco fumes floating over! 3D BAR Recently opened, smallish place, quite cool Malecon entre Paseo y Presidente Teatro Bertolt Brecht No se lo digas a nadie Don’t tell anyone! Calle 13, e/I y J, Vedado T. 830 1354 / 832 9359 El Cocinero Havana’s coolest and best new bar/restaurant Calle 26, e 11 y 13, Vedado Don Cangrejo Friday night party venue for young & beautiful crowd Ave. 1ra No. 1606, entre 16 y 18, Miramar T. 204 5002 Ecaleras al Cielo Nightclub attracting a mostly LGBTQ crowd 658 Zulueta Street, between Gloria and Apodaca, Old Havana T. 863 3009 Espacio Hip new bar with valet parking Calle 10, entre 5ta y 31, Miramar La Fontana South Beach Miami style comes to Havana outside + cozy renovated basement Calle 3ra A, esquina 46, No. 305 Miramar, Havana T. 202 8337 Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com El Gato Tuerto Late night place to hear Bolero Calle O, entre 17 y 19, Vedado T. 833 2224 Melem Bar Young hip crowd – can get smoky 1ra y 60, Miramar Privé Lounge (It is never late here) Calle 88A No. 306 e/ 3ra y 3ra A, Miramar, Playa, Playa T. 2092719 Bar Las Piedras 1ra y 43, Playa (Venue for the after-party) Sangri-La Young hip crowd, modern basement venue 42 y esq. 21, Miramar El Sauce Open air nightclub – attracts the best Cuban singers Avenida 9na #12015, entre 120 y 130 T. 204-6428 Bar Somavilla 15 y H, Vedado (Young, hip crowd) El Tocororo Mostly expatriates with Cuban friends, live music Calle 18, entre 3ra y 5ta, Miramar T. 204 2209 / 202 4530 page 31 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! BEST PLACES TO EAT IN HAVANA Corte del Principe (Sergio's) 9NA ESQ. 74, PLAYA, (53) 7 5-255-9091 Undeniably serving the best pasta in town at present look for the Tagliatelle al funghi porcini/gamberi y zucchine/alla marinara. Unless you get stuck on the starters that are so good you don't even make it to your main course. Just ask Sergio what he recommends today. Typically busy but not packed there is an atmosphere about the place. Somewhere where no-one comes in a hurry. A place you stay to enjoy the wine, smoke that cigar and relax in a laid back atmosphere. This is not to say that the food will take an eternity to appear, on the contrary service is attentive and quick. Simply that what is the rush, do you really have somewhere better to be? 20 Best places to eat in Havana El Atelier (Experimental fusion) Calle 5 entre Paseo y 2, Vedado tel: (7) 836 7075 El Azador del Rey (Grilled meats) Le Chansonnier (International) Calle J No. 257 entre Línea y 15, Vedado Tel: 832 1576 3ra e 18 y 20, Miramar El Chanchullero (Spanish tapas) El Beduino (Arabic) Teniente Rey 457ª bajos / Bernaza y El Cristo tel:(07) 872 8227; 05 276 0938 5ta entre 4 y 6, Miramar El Deluvio (Italian) Bollywood (Indian) Calle 72 No. 1705 entre 17 y 19, Playa T. 202 1531 Bohemia (Café) Callejón del Chorro No. 60, Habana Vieja T. 05 281 5883; 05 270 6433 Calle 35 No 1361, entre La Torre y 24, Nuevo Vedado Tel: 883 1216 Calle 21, esquina 14, Vedado La Buena Vida (Vegetarian) No 917, Calle 46, entre 11 y 9na. tel: (07) 202 5816 Calle 10 (International) Calle 10 No 314 btwn Avs 3 & 5, Miramar. Tel: 205-3970 La Carboncita (Italian) Ave. 3ra No. 3804 entre 38 y 40. tel: (07) 203 0261 / 290 4984 La Casa (International) Calle 30 No. 865 entre 26 y 41. tel:(07) 881 7000 Café Lauren (Spanish) Calle M No. 257, entre 19 y 21, Vedado Tel: 831 2090 / 832 6890 Casa de Miglis Lealtad 120 entre Ánimas y Lagunas tel: (7) 864 1486 Doña Eutimia (Cuban-creole) El Divino (International) Calle raquel no. 50 e/ Esperanza y Lindero Reparto Castillo de Averhoff, Mantilla Los Nardos Paseo de Martí (Prado) 565 entre Teniente Rey y Dragones. tel: (07) 863 2985 El Piccolo (Italian) 5ta A No. 50206 entre 502 y 504, Guanabo, Habana del Este tel: (7) 796 4300 Malecon 23 (New location with beautiful view over the Malecon) Havana, Cuba 7 862 7735 Río Mar (International) 3A y Final # 11, La Puntilla, Miramar Casa Lala (Spanish) Calle 24 No 360 entre 21 y 23, Vedado T. 830 1410 Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com page 32 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! Conner's Ultimate Guide to The Agro by Conner Gorry There are several options for where to buy fresh fruits, vegetables and meat in Havana, but grocery stores aren't one of them (see note 1). No matter where you find yourself shopping, my advice is bring your own plastic or other reusable bags for carting away your goods (though at many markets, little old ladies sell plastic bags for a peso apiece). Also, once you've had your produce weighed and have paid, look for the 'Area de Consumidor' – this is where you can have your purchases re-weighed to see how much you've been ripped off (see note 2). When this happens – as it does to everyone, Cuban and foreign – you simply go back to the seller and they'll rectify the error without batting an eyelash. Where to Shop: Agropecuarios – There are two types of these markets: those with price caps, heavily subsidized by the state, and those where supply and demand dictate price. You can see side-by-side examples at Tulipán, where the chaotic EJT (price-capped) market has long lines and lots of root vegetables mostly, while a block away, the tidy supply and demand market offers stacks of carrots, mounds of tomatoes and all the fruta bomba, watercress, red peppers, limes and string beans to get mouths watering. Not surprisingly, prices are higher at the latter. Organopónicos – These organic markets are heavy on the veggies, but light on fruit; prices are reasonable for the (mostly) organic produce – not all of it is grown on site. Much of it is however, and I've bought just-harvested lettuce, bok choy, okra and basil frequently at organopónicos. The area around the Plaza de la Revolución is peppered with these markets. Two farther afield favorites are the one at 5ta Avenida and Calle 44 and the so-called 'organopónico japonés' out on Avenida 25 in the Cubanacán neighborhood. The latter has an awesome orchid selection, as well. Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com Ferias agropecuarios – There used to be monthly (or more often) neighborhood 'produce fairs' where trucks heavily laden with bananas, onions, garlic and anything else in season rolled in for a weekend to sell as much as possible at great prices. Two popular ones occupying blocks and blocks included the one on Avenida 13 in Playa and along Carlos III in Centro Habana/Plaza. Fish, house wares, artesanía, and prepared foods (chicharrones!) were also sold at these fairs, where locals flocked to load up for the week or month. I haven't seen one of these in at least a year; I'd love to know what happened to them. Anyone? Mobile vendors – These are a new phenomenon made possible by the economic reforms initiated in 2010. While convenient, these door-to-door produce sales chap my ass. First, they're gutting state markets (often the price capped ones), snatching up merchandise to resell at a markup – usually by 100-200% (see note 3). Second, some of these agros-on-wheels sell pre-bagged and weighed goods. Of course, when you open that sack of okra/potatoes/peppers in your kitchen, rotted and otherwise inferior produce lurks. How to shop for some specific, perhaps unfamiliar, items: Quimbombó (okra) – A popular vegetable in these parts, to ensure you're getting fresh okra, snap off the tip of a few (or do like we do and test every single one before committing – don't worry, sellers won't mind). Tips should snap off crisply, not bend over. Melón (watermelon) – Watermelon halves are a no brainer. When you're after a whole one, however, things get murkier. In this case, bring the melon to your ear and give it a few hard taps with your fingertips. A good one will return a “dry” pok, pok, pok sound, according to my local expert. Most sellers will also offer to cut out a small triangle so you can sample before buying. page 33 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! Limones (limes) – A staple in many Cuban dishes (and mojitos of course!), most cooks have been duped by limes that look luscious but then turn out to be dry and worthless. To avoid this fate, choose limes which have smooth, shiny skin. Most sellers will prove the juiciness of their limes by cutting one open and squeezing out a long stream with a dramatic flourish. Guayaba (guava) – I remember the first guava I ever ate, off the tree, in the Costa Rican jungle. It was delicious for the first, second and third bite. On the fourth, I bit into a little white worm. I didn't eat another guava for decades. Cuban advice on how to avoid guava worms? Don't think about it: the majority has them, even if you don't know it. Fruta bomba (papaya; see note 4) – Unlike in other latitudes, there's only one variety of papaya sold in Cuba – bigger than a loaf of bread and orange as a basketball. Choose one that is uniform in color and smells sweet; if it has a few over ripened black spots, don't discount it. Instead, ask the seller to cut out a small triangle to taste. Mamey – I ascribe the licorice axiom to this odd fruit: either you love it or won't touch it. Mamey look like mini footballs and have brown skin. The flesh is a deep coral color, with a distinctive, slightly perfumed, taste. Mamey diehards scoop it up with a spoon but it's mostly used in fruit shakes and ice cream. Sellers will flick off a piece of skin to show you it's ripe. Malanga (taro) and boniato (sweet potato) – While consulting friends for this post, I asked how they distinguished the good malanga and boniato from the bad. Everyone agreed: these root vegetables a caja de sorpresa. Translation: you never really know what you're going to get. The same can be said for zanahoria (carrots), any bunch of which can contain a few that are sweet and toothsome and others that taste like soap. Miel (honey) – Fresh honey is sold in repurposed Havana Club bottles at many agros and is a real treat. To make sure the honey you're buying hasn't been cut with sugar (an old trick in these parts), invert the bottle; the honey should try your patience it moves so slowly and importantly, have a large air bubble making its way to the top. Notes 1. In my experience, many visitors think, logically, that fresh produce and protein can be purchased at grocery stores. Not so here in Havana. 2. So widespread is the practice, each market now has an Area de Consumidor. Old hands come to market with their own hand scale to weigh their purchases in front of the seller, before paying. 3. This is also happening in other sectors, whereby 'cuenta propistas' ( freelancers) buy light bulbs, cleaning products and hardware in state stores to re-sell at a steep markup. 4. In Havana and many surrounding areas, 'papaya' is not used to designate this fruit, but is instead reserved for a certain part of the female anatomy. In the Oriente, papaya means the fruit. Continue to read full article + slideshow Yuca (yucca) – A ubiquitous root vegetable, these long tubers are brown to reddish on the outside, blindingly white on the inside. When cooked, yucca is soft and always served with an addictive garlic sauce/bitter orange sauce called mojo. Fresh yucca “weeps” from the cut end – you should see little droplets of gathered moisture. Some sellers display a dish of already cooked yucca at their stalls to prove that “se ablanda” – it cooks up soft. Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com page 34 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! ADDRESS BOOK CULTURAL CENTRES Ballet Nacional de Cuba Calzada 509 entre D y E, El Vedado Tel. +(53) 7 855 2946 Casa de la Poesía Muralla 63 entre Oficios e Inquisidor, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 862 1801 Café Neruda Malecón 355 entre Manrique y San Nicolás, Centro Habana Casa y Parque Simón Bolívar Casa de África Obrapía 157 entre Mercaderes y San Ignacio, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 861 5798 Mercaderes 158 entre Obrapía y Lamparilla, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 861 3988 Casa Víctor Hugo Casa Alejandro de Humboldt Oficios esquina a Sol, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 863 9850 O’Reilly 311 entre Habana y Aguiar, La Habana Vieja Teléfono 866 7591 Caserón del Tango Casa de Artes y Tradiciones Chinas Salud 313 entre Gervasio y Escobar, Centro Habana Tel. +(53) 7 863 5450 / 860 9976 Jústiz entre Baratillo y Oficios, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 861 0822 Casona de Línea Línea 505 entre D y E, El Vedado Tel. +(53) 7 833 8562 Casa de Asia Mercaderes 111 entre Obrapía y Obispo, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 863 9740 Centro Cultural Bertolt Brecht Calle13 esquina a I, El Vedado Tel. +(53) 7 832 9359 Casa de las Américas Calle 3ra. esquina a G, El Vedado Tel. +(53) 7 838 2706-09 Centro Cultural Dulce María Loynaz Calle 19 esquina a E, El Vedado Tel. +(53) 7 835 2732 Casa de los Árabes Oficios 16 entre Obispo y Obrapía, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 861 5868 Centro Cultural Pablo de la Torriente Brau Muralla 63 entre Oficios e Inquisidor, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 861 5162 Casa del Benemérito de las Américas Obrapía 116, entre Mercaderes y Oficios, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 861 8166 Casa de la Comedia (salateatro) Jústiz 18, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 863 9282 Casa del Conde Lombillo Centro de Danza Prado 111, entre genio y Refugio, La de La Habana Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 863 9131 / 866 0808 Centro HispanoAmericano de Cultura Malecón 17 entre Prado y Genio, Centro Habana Tel. +(53) 7 860 6282 Empedrado entre Mercaderes y San Ignacio, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 860 4311-14 Centro de Teatro y Danza San Ignacio 166 entre Obispo y Obrapía, La Habana Vieja. Tel. +(53) 7 862 9650 / 862 9448 Casa de los Condes de Jaruco Plaza Vieja, La Habana Vieja Calle 4 número 103 entre Calzada y 5ta., El Vedado Tel. +(53) 7 830 3060 Casa Fundación Oswaldo Guayasamín Obrapía entre Oficios y Mercaderes, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 861 3843 Conjunto Folklórico Nacional de Cuba Convento de Belén Compostela entre Acosta y Luz, La Habana Vieja Casa Juan Gualberto Gómez Empedrado entre Aguiar y Cuba, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 866 4114 Casa de la Obra Pía Obrapía entre Mercaderes y San Ignacio, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 861 3097 Fundación Ludwig de Cuba Calle 13 núm. 509 entre D y E (5to. piso), El Vedado Tel. +(53) 7 832 4270 / 832 9128 Casa de la Orfebrería Obispo 113 entre Oficios y Mercaderes, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 863 9861 Fundación Habana Club Avenida del Puerto 262 entre Luz y Sol, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 862 4108 Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com Escuela Nacional Calle 11 esquina a 146, Cubanacán, de Teatro Playa Tel. +(53) 7 208 4923 page 36 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! CULTURAL CENTRES Gabinete de Arquelogía Tacón 12 entre O’Reilly y Empedrado, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 861 4469 Instituto de Literatura y Lingüística Dr. José Antonio Portuondo Valdor Avenida Salvador Allende 710, Centro Habana Tel. +(53) 7 878 6486 Instituto Calle 120 entre 9na. y 13, Superior de Arte Cubanacán, Playa (ISA) Tel. +(53) 7 271 9771 Proyecto Cultural Arte Tiempo Cárdenas 114, bajos, entre Gloria y Apodaca, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 537-8 61 2838 Proyecto Cultural Comunitario Todas las Manos Trocadero 303 esquina a Águila, Centro Habana Tel. +(53) 7 861 3260 Unión de Escritores y Artistas de Cuba (UNEAC) Calle 17 esquina a H, El Vedado Tel. +(53) 7 832 4551-53 Tel. +(53) 7 832 4551-53 Unión Latina Callejón de Jústiz 21, entre Oficios y Avenida del Puerto, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 866 8142 / 866 8255 Tel. +(53) 7 832 4551-53 Vitrina de Valonia San Ignacio entre Teniente Rey y Muralla, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 868 3561 BARS 3D BAR Don Cangreco (Recently opened, smallish place, quite cool) Malecon entre Paseo y President (Friday night party venue for young & beautiful crowd) Ave. 1ra No. 1606 entre 16 y 18 Espacio (Hip new bar with valet parking) Calle 10, Entre 5ta y 31, Miramar Melem Bar (Young hip crowd – can get smokey) 1ra y 60, Miramar Sangri-La (Young hip crowd, modern basement venue) 42 y 11, Miramar Tocororo NIGHTLIFE Dos Gardenias Calle 7ma. y 26, Miramar Ecaleras al Cielo 658 Zulueta Street, between Gloria and Apodaca Old Havana Tel. (537)863 3009 El Gato Tuerto Calle O entre17 y 19, El Vedado Tel. +(53) 7 55 2696 El Sauce Calle 9na. Entre 120 y 130, Playa Tel. +(53) 7 204 7061 La Cecilia 5ta. Avenida entre 110 y 112, Miramar La Maison Calle 16 entre 7ma. y 31, Miramar La Pérgola Ministerio de Cultura Calle 13 entre 2 y 4, El Vedado La Piragua Calle O y Malecón, El Vedado La Zorra y el Cuervo (La Casa del Jazz Cubano) Calle 23 esquina a O, El Vedado Tel. +(53) 7 833 2402 Piano bar Hotel Panorama Ave. 3ra. y 70, Miramar Tel. +(53) 7 204 0100 ART GALLERIES Centro de Arte Contemporáneo Wifredo Lam Empedrado esquina a San Ignacio, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 863 9781 / 861 3419 Centro de Desarrollo de las Artes Visuales San Ignacio 352 esquina a Teniente Rey, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 862 5279, 862 9295 / 862 3533 Centro Laboratorio Artístico de San Agustín (LASA) Calle 23 esquina a 35, San Agustín, La Lisa Centro Provincial de Artes Plásticas y Diseño Oficios 362 entre Luz y Santa Clara, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 862 3228 / 862 3295 / 866 0280 Colección Arte de Nuestra América Haydée Santamaría Casa de las Américas Calle G entre 3ra. y 5ta., El Vedado Tel. +(53) 7 838 2706-09 Fototeca de Cuba Mercaderes 307 entre Muralla y Teniente Rey, Plaza Vieja, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 862 2530 Tel. +(53) 7 832 4551-53 Galería Avellaneda Teatro Nacional Calle Paseo y 39, El Vedado Tel. +(53) 7 870 4651 (Mostly expatriates with Cuban friends, live music) Calle 18, entre 3ra y 5ta, Miramar Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com page 37 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! ART GALLERIES Galería de Arte Malecón Calle D, entre 1ra, y 3ra., El Vedado Galería Carmen Montilla Oficios 162 entre Amargura y Churruca, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 866 4114 Galería Collage Habana San Rafael 103 entre Consulado e Industria, Centro Habana Galería El Reino de Este Mundo Biblioteca Nacional José Martí Boyeros entre 20 de Mayo y Aranguren, Plaza de la Revolución Tel. +(53) 7 881 1757 Galería René Portocarrero Teatro Nacional Calle Paseo y 39, El Vedado Tel. +(53) 7 870 4651 Galería Raúl Martínez Palacio del Segundo Cabo O’Reilly 4 esquina a Tacón, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 862 8091 ext. 151 Galería Raúl Oliva Centro Cultural Bertolt Brecha Calle13 esquina a I, El Vedado Tel. +(53) 7 832 9359 Galería Roberto Diago Muralla 107 esquina a San Ignacio, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 862 3577 Galería Servando Calle 23 esquina a 10, El Vedado Tel. +(53) 7 833 9599 Galería Factoría Habana O´Reilly 308 entre entre Habana y Aguiar, La Habana Vieja Galería Forma Obispo 255 entre Cuba y Aguiar, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 862 2633 Galería Fresa y Chocolate Calle 23 entre 10 y 12, El Vedado Galería Fundación Habana Club Avenida del Puerto y Sol, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 862 4108 Galería Fundación Ludwig Calle 13 esquina a D, 5to. piso, El Vedado Tel. +(53) 7 832 4270 / 832 9128 Galería Servando Cabrera Calle 42 entre 1ra. y 3ra., La Copa, Playa Tel. +(53) 7 203 7171 Galería Galiano Galiano esquina a Concordia, Centro Habana Tel. +(53) 7 862 5365 Galería Víctor Manuel San Ignacio y Callejón del Chorro, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 866 9268 Galería Habana Línea 460 entre E y F, El Vedado Tel. +(53) 7 832 7101 Galería Villa Manuela Galería Haydee Santamaría Calle G entre E y F, El Vedado Tel. +(53) 7 832 4653 Calle H número 406 entre 17 y 19, El Vedado Tel. +(53) 7 832 2391 Galería 23 Y 12 Galería Julio Larramendi Hotel Conde de Villanueva Mercaderes 202 entre Lamparilla y Amargura, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 862 9294 / 862 9293 Calle 23 esquina a 12, El Vedado Tel. +(53) 7 831 1810 Hotel Los Frailes Teniente Rey 8 entre Oficios y Mercaderes, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 862 9383 Galería La Acacia San José 114 entre Industria y Consulado, Centro Habana Tel. +(53) 7 863 9364 / 861 3533 Taller Experimental de Gráfica de La Habana Callejón del Chorro, Plaza de la Catedral, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 862 0979 Taller de Serigrafía René Portocarrero Cuba 513, entre Teniente Rey y Muralla, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 862 3276 / 861 9354 Tel. +(53) 7 862 3276 / 861 9354 Galería Casa de las Américas Latinoamericana Calle G entre 3ra. y 5ta., piso 2, El Vedado Tel. +(53) 7 832 4653 Galería Mariano Calle 15 núm. 607 entre B y C, El Vedado Tel. +(53) 7 838 2702 Galería Orígenes Gran Teatro de La Habana Prado y San Rafael, Centro Habana Tel. +(53) 7 863 6690 Galería Palacio de la Artesanía Cuba 64, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 33 8072 y 861 9796 Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com CINEMAS Centro Cultural ICAIC Calle 23 entre 10 y 12, El Vedado Cine Acapulco Avenida 26 esquina a 39, Nuevo Vedado Tel. +(53) 7 833 9573 Cine Chaplin Calle 23 entre 10 y 12, El Vedado Tel. +(53) 7 831 1101 page 38 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! CINEMAS MUSEUMS Cine La Rampa Calle 23 entre O y P, El Vedado Tel. +(53) 7 878 6146 Cine Payret Prado 513, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 863 3163 Cine Riviera Calle 23 entre F y G, El Vedado Tel. +(53) 7 830 9564 Cine Yara Calle L esquina a 23, El Vedado Tel. +(53) 7 831 1723 / 832 9430 Cine 23 y 12 Calle 23 entre 12 y 14, El Vedado Tel. +(53) 7 833 6906 Cinematógrafo Lumière Mercaderes entre Obispo y Obrapía, La Habana Vieja Cine-teatro Trianón Línea entre Paseo y A., El Vedado Tel. +(53) 7 830 9648 Fundación del Quinta Santa Bárbara, calle 212 Nuevo Cine núm. 21254 esquina a 31, La Latinoamericano Coronela, La Lisa Tel. +(53) 7 271 8311 / 271 8141 Multisala Infanta Infanta entre Neptuno y San Miguel, Centro Habana Tel. +(53) 7 878 9323 MUSEUMS Fototeca de Cuba Mercaderes 307 entre Muralla y Teniente Rey, Plaza Vieja, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 862 2530 Tel. +(53) 7 832 4551-53 Maqueta de La Calle 28 núm. 113, entre 1ra. y 3ra., Habana Miramar Tel. +(53) 7 204 2661 / 332661 Memorial José Martí Plaza de la Revolución Tel. +(53) 7 882 0906 / 884 0551 Monumento de la Cárcel de La Habana Cárcel entre Zulueta y Prado, La Habana Vieja Museo Antropológico Montané Edifico Felipe Poey, Plaza Ignacio Agramonte, Universidad de La Habana, El Vedado Tel. +(53) 7 879 3488 Museo de Arqueología Museo de Arte Colonial Tacón 12 entre O’Reilly y Empedrado, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 861 4469 Plaza de la Catedral, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 862 6440 Museo Biblioteca Calle Paseo 304 esquina a 13, El Servando Vedado Cabrera Moreno Museo Casa Natal de José Martí Leonor Pérez 314, entre Picota y Egido, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 861 3778 Museo Castillo de la Real Fuerza O’Reilly entre Avenida del Puerto y Tacón, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 861 6130 Museo del Chocolate Amargura esquina a Mercaderes, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 866 4431 Museo de la Ciudad Tacón 1 entre Obispo y O’Reilly, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 861 5001 Museo de la Danza Línea esquina a G, El Vedado Tel. +(53) 7 831 2198 Museo Ernest Hemingway Finca Vigía, San Francisco de Paula, San Miguel del Padrón Tel. +(53) 7 891 0809 Museo Farmacéutico Taquechel Obispo entre San Ignacio y Mercaderes, La Habana Vieja Museo de Historia Natural Obispo 61 entre Baratillo y Oficios, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 863 2687 Galería Mariano Calle 15 núm. 607 entre B y C, El Museo Nacional de Artes Decorativas Obispo 61 entre Baratillo y Oficios, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 863 2687 Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (Arte Cubano) Trocadero entre Monserrate y Zulueta, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 862 0140, 861 3858 y 863 9484 Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes Centro Asturiano (Colección Universal) San Rafael entre Zulueta y Monserrate, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 862 0140 / 861 3858 / 863 9484 Museo Nacional de la Cerámica Contemporánea Calle Mercaderes, esquina a Amargura, La Habana Vieja Museo Nacional de la Música Capdevila 1 entre Habana y Aguiar, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 861 9046 Museo de Naipes Inquisidor y Muralla, Plaza Vieja, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 860 1530 Tel. +(53) 7 835 2027 / 836 0010 Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com page 39 WHAT’S ON HAVANA ! MUSEUMS MUSIC Museo Napoleónico San Miguel y Ronda, El Vedado Tel. +(53) 7 879 1412 / 879 1460 Maxim Rock Bruzón 62, entre Almendares y Ayestarán, Plaza de la RevoluciónTel. +(53) 7 877 5925 Museo Numismáti-co Obispo entre Cuba y San Ignacio, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 861 5811 Oratorio San Felipe Neri Aguiar esquina a Obrapía, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 862 3243 Museo de la Perfumería Oficios, entre Obispo y Obrapía, La Habana Vieja Palacio del Teatro Lírico Nacional Zulueta 253 entre Ánimas y Neptuno, La Habana Vieja Museo Postal Cubano Avenida de Rancho Boyeros entre 19 de Mayo y 20 de Mayo (Ministerio de Comunicaciones), Plaza de la Revolución Tel. +(53) 7 870 5581 Sala Lecuona Prado y San Rafael, Centro Habana Tel. +(53) 7 861 3077 / 3079 Teatro Amadeo Roldán Calzada y D, El Vedado Tel. +(53) 7 832 4521-22 Museo de la Revolución y Memorial Granma Refugio 1 entre Monserrate y Zulueta, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 862 4091 Museo del Ron Avenida del Puerto 262 entre Luz y Sol, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 862 4108 Museo del Tabaco Fototeca de Cuba Parque Histórico Militar MorroCabaña Sala del Transporte Automotor Mercaderes 120 entre Obispo y Obrapía, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 861 5795 Mercaderes 307 entre Muralla y Teniente Rey, Plaza Vieja, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 862 2530 Tel. +(53) 7 832 4551-53 Carretera de la Cabaña, La Habana del Este Tel. +(53) 7 861 6130 / 861 5001 THEATRES Centro Cultural Bertolt Brecht Calle13 esquina a I, El Vedado Tel. +(53) 7 832 9359 Cine-teatro Trianón Línea entre Paseo y A, El Vedado Tel. +(53) 7 830 9648 Gran Teatro de La Habana Prado y San Rafael, Centro Habana Tel. +(53) 7 861 3077-79 Sala Adolfo Llauradó Calle 11 entre D y E, El Vedado Tel. +(53) 7 832 5573 Sala Argos Teatro Ayestarán 307 esquina a 20 de Mayo, El Cerro Tel. +(53) 7 878 5551 Sala Hubert de Blanck Calzada 657 entre A y B, El Vedado Tel. +(53) 7 830 1011 Teatro América Galiano entre Concordia y Neptuno, Centro Habana Tel. +(53) 7 862 5416 Teatro Astral Infanta 501, Centro Habana Tel. +(53) 7 878 1001 Teatro El Sótano Calle K entre 25 y 27, El Vedado Tel. +(53) 7 832 0630 Teatro Fausto Prado y Colón, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 863 1173 Oficios y Callejón de Jústiz, La Habana Vieja MUSIC Basílica Menor del Convento de San Francisco de Asís Oficios y Churruca, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 862 9683 Gran Teatro de La Habana Prado y San Rafael, Centro Habana Tel. +(53) 7 861 3077-79 Iglesia de San Francisco de Paula Desamparados y San Ignacio, Alameda de Paula, La Habana Vieja Tel. +(53) 7 860 4210 Jardines de la Tropical Avenida Tropical y Rizo, Playa Tel. +(53) 7 881 8767 Liceum Mozartiano de La Habana Avenida Tropical y Rizo, Playa Tel. +(53) 7 881 8767 Read more at www.CubaAbsolutely.com Teatro Karl Marx Calle 1ra y 8, Miramar Tel. +(53) 7 203 0801 / 209 1991 Teatro Mella Línea entre A y B, El Vedado Tel. +(53) 7 830 4987 Teatro Nacional Paseo y 39, El Vedado Tel. +(53) 7 879 3558 / 879 6011 Teatro Nacional de Guiñol Calle M entre 19 y 21, El Vedado Tel. +(53) 7 832 6262 / 832 8292 page 40 WHAT’S ON HAVANA !