Namibia - BushKitchen

Transcription

MAHANGO
Game Park
Etosha's
TOP 100 birds
THE FAIRY CIRCLES
What's your theory?
+
NAMIBIA
celebrates 25 Years
is published by Venture Publications in Windhoek, Namibia
www.travelnewsnamibia.com
4 Herzinger Crescent, Klein Windhoek
PO Box 21593, Windhoek, Namibia
Managing Editor Rièth van Schalkwyk
Technical Director Naudé Muller
Production manager Elzanne Erasmus
elzanne@travelnewsnamibia.com
Public relations Janine van der Merwe
janine@travelnewsnamibia.com
LAYOUT Venture Publications
Customer Service Bonn Nortjé
bonn@venture.com.na
Online Editor Sanet van Zijl
info@travelnewsnamibia.com
cover photograph
Paul van Schalkwyk
Text Contributors
Annabelle Venter, Ron Swilling, Pompie Burger, Elzanne
Erasmus, Sanet van Zijl, Marita van Rooyen, Christine Hugo,
Helge Denker
Photographers
Paul van Schalkwyk, Ron Swilling, Pompie Burger, Elzanne
Erasmus, Sanet van Zijl, Sean McCulloch, Karin Malherbe,
Helge Denker, Marita van Rooyen, C.J. van der Westhuizen
Printers
John Meinert Printing, Windhoek
Travel News Namibia is published quarterly, distributed worldwide
and produced solely on Apple Macintosh equipment. The editorial
content of TNN is contributed by freelance writers and journalists. It
is the sole responsibility of the publisher and no part of the magazine
may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher.
ABOUT VENTURE
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EDITOR’S LETTER
Thank you for picking up this edition of
Travel News Namibia
I
t is exciting to live in a country with mysteries yet to be solved. Of course
there are inexplicable phenomena all over the world, but in Namibia ours may
well have to do with fairies. A group of scientists recently met at NamibRand
to discuss the mystery of the fairy circles and Helge Denker was there to report
back on their findings. Fairies are certainly not the ones creating the circles, but
regardless of whether the scientists ever get to the bottom of the mystery, I hope
they will never rename these circles. For the romantics among us, it will spoil our
fun. Who would “buy” a "termite circle" or a “toxic circle” or a “magnetic circle”
for the NamibRand Conservation Fund? Not me.
autumn
in namibia
As I write this message to Travel News Namibia readers all over the world, the
rains have started. I know that for visitors from the northern hemisphere this will
seem like bad news. But believe me, in a desert country with virtually 365 days
of sunshine, there is cause for concern when there is no rain in February. All we
really need is enough rain to keep the dams full and the grass green for a few
months. This is what keeps the collective spirit up. After a wet cycle lasting two
decades, it seems almost unavoidable that sooner or later we will have a dry
spell. For visitors a dry spell means that the sky will be blue, the desert will be
desert, the grass, if any, will be yellow, and the animals in Etosha will congregate
at the waterholes. Tourist bliss. For Namibians, however, the talk is about nothing
else but the weather. We become really boring and gloomy. (Don’t ever complain
if you get soaked like I did, running from the airport terminal to the aircraft in
winter. This is special because it can only happen in Namibia. Everywhere else
in the world rain is expected in the rainy season and the airport company takes
precautions such as umbrellas!)
But whether it rains or not, the photo essay in this edition will inspire you. Inspire
you to search out your own special moments and places when it rains or to
return to Namibia when all you captured on your previous journeys were clear
blue skies, lovely sunsets, and perfect animal poses in the hot sunshine.
An exciting event in Namibia this season and something we are extremely proud
of, was the selection of our outgoing President Hifikepunye Pohamba as the 2014
Mo Ibrahim Laureate for Achievement in African Leadership – this after 25 years
of peace, prosperity and independence. He is only the fourth recipient of this
prize since Nelson Mandela was made the inaugural honorary laureate in 2007.
Noteworthy also are Namibia’s vast expanses. It is the least populated country
in the world and the country with the largest percentage (46%) of surface
area under some form of conservation management. It has the largest freeroaming lion, cheetah and leopard populations, and our elephant population
has increased to such an extent that we are starting to be concerned about the
vegetation they destroy.
These are not nearly all the reasons why Namibia is the best place on the
continent (if not the world) to visit. We will keep some surprises in store for future
editions and editorials.
When you have read about the Slaneys’ endeavours to create a haven of peace
in the Kalahari, the passion of Mike and Christa of Scenic Air to ensure that fly-in
safaris are safe and awe-inspiring, the fun of camping around our capital, the
discovery of the sweetest, smallest antelope in the world, and the 25 things you
can do to celebrate Namibia’s independence, you should be convinced that we
have reason to be proud. Namibia is a sought-after destination for a reason. And
we are the only travel magazine in the world that writes about travelling in only
one country. Isn’t that something? To top that, we can boast about the fact that
we have been writing about Namibia for 22 years and still find something new to
write about.
Rièth van Schalkwyk
TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA AUTUMN 2015
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CONTENTS
autumn 2015
8WHAT’S NEW(S)? New developments in the industry
64
14
13 FAST FACTS All you need to know about Namibia
14 Happy 25th Birthday Namibia 25 Must Dos
22 GENERATION WANDERLUST Mahango Game Park
28 CALLING ON THE CAPITAL A first-timer's guide to Windhoek
32 TNN SHOPPING Stock up on proudly Namibian fare
34BIRDING The top 100 birds of Etosha
40FOODIES The Meat Man at Moon Mountain
44OTJIMBONDONA Join the Slaneys in the Kalahari
46 PHOTOGRAPHY FEATURE Paul van Schalkwyk
52 TNN GOES CAMPING Tent pegging in and around the city
56 WEATHER Autumn at a glance
58 ADVENTURE The Rock-Climber Diaries
64 EXPLORE ETOSHA The curious case of Dik-dik Drive
CONTENTS
40
32
66 FAIRY CIRCLES What's your theory?
34
72 SCENIC AIR A new direction for local aviation
74BOOKS A tribute to the wisdom and knowledge of the Zambezi region
58
22
SCOTTISH RUNNERS MAKE HISTORY
in the Namib Desert
Four months ago David Scott, the legendary Scottish expedition
organiser, set a challenge to Scottish runners Dr Andrew Murray and
Donnie Campbell. He sent them three pictures and a short email:
“Run across the Namib Desert – some parts have not been explored
properly, here are some photos, sore feet and adventure awaits.”
They found the pictures incredible and no convincing was needed.
They were going to Namibia and they were going to run their socks
off. The run would be from Lüderitz to Walvis Bay, through the
desert, and it would be called the Namib550. Funding and support
were secured from Scottish entrepreneur Bert Jukes of Lyprinol
UK. Applications had to be made to tribal chiefs to secure access
to parts of the park rich in diamonds that had not been accessed.
On 2 February they landed in Namibia and the battle began. They
ran about 60 km a day, struggling through thick desert sand,
battling over ridges and massive dunes, including the daunting
Devil’s Workshop. Initially they planned on completing the run in ten
days, but they managed the colossal task in only nine. A complete
distance of 504 km was covered: something that had never been
done before. The extra day that they had left allowed them time for
community work. Much-needed medical supplies were distributed
to locals and health workers to supply four clinics around the Walvis
Bay area. To read more on this story visit our website at
www.travelnewsnamibia.com or visit Dr Andrew Murray’s website
to see what he gets up to: www.docandrewmurray.com.
WHAT’s NEW(S)?
Compiled Elzanne Erasmus & Sanet van Zijl
The Sky is the Limit
Shakespeare said, “All the world’s a stage.”
Namibia must then be the stage’s most
beautiful scene setting. It is therefore only
logical that a group of Namibians who love
the stage, the arts and Namibia equally have
come together to build an open-air theatre
in Windhoek. The skyline, the surrounding
mountains, and the sunsets form a
perfect backdrop.
Ground was broken recently for the
construction of this soon-to-be Skyline
Theatre. Sandy Rudd, former director of the
College of the Arts, along with
sponsors such as B2Gold, has made the
project possible.
Said Rudd at the groundbreaking ceremony: “The aim of the
project is to build a venue where artists, musicians and cultural
groups can perform in a space like no other. We’re taking
drama and arts out of the theatre and to the people so that we
can inspire the next generation, all the while taking advantage
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of this spectacular view of the Windhoek skyline.” The
construction will be supported by volunteer work and reclaimed
and repurposed building materials and will serve as a platform
for the promotion of Namibian culture and the performing arts.
WHAT’S NEW(S)?
Feel the Good Vibes
Valentine’s Day saw the launch of a brand-new market day
for Windhoek inhabitants to enjoy. The first Windhoek City
Market was held on the lawn in front of Eagles Restaurant in
Avis. The market was spread out along the edge of the small
dam with its quacking ducks and lovely green lawn – prime
spot for putting up a gazebo and lazing the day away.
Market stalls included jewellery, hand-made gifts and art.
There was also enough to make the Windhoek foodies drool:
freshly baked confectionaries, iced tea, craft beer and a
wide selection of wine. The live music was just the icing on a
beautifully crafted cake.
Keep an eye on the Windhoek City Market Facebook page
(www.facebook.com/windhoekcitymarket) for future
dates. Bring a picnic blanket, the kids and even the dogs
along. Wine
and dine in
true Namibian
style, all the
while enjoying
live music and
relaxing Saturday
vibes.
To participate
contact organisers
via their website: www.windhoekcitymarket.com
NEW NAUKLUFT CAMPSITE unveiled
Nestled between the Namib Naukluft Mountains, Namibia Wildlife Resort’s (NWR) Naukluft Campsite falls within one of the
largest conservation areas in the world. The Naukluft section of the park was created to serve as a refuge for the Hartmann’s
mountain zebra, which are endemic to Namibia; however countless other wildlife species can be encountered here as well.
The park also boasts five different vegetation communities, including a variety of aloes. The reintroduction of the new campsite
took place in December 2014. A whopping N$7.93 million was spent on the revamping of the campsite, including new furniture,
accommodation, a restaurant and a bar. The makeover promises to give guests to the camp a true outdoors experience.
Back in 1986, when the campsite was first opened to the public, only four camping spots were available. Now that the camp
has been expanded, it offers six chalets and 21 campsites with two overflow sites, as well as staff housing. Basic amenities,
such as braai areas and new ablution blocks are available at each campsite. Visitors to the campsite enjoy various activities,
which include trail hiking, nature walks, bird watching, swimming in the rock pools close to the campsite and exploring the 4x4
trails. To make reservations contact NWR at +264 61 285 7200 or visit their website for further details: www.nwr.com.na.
Leaders of the Nation
NamPost stamps have always featured an interesting mix
of themes. The commemoration of a quarter of a century of
independence for Namibia is an obligatory part of that mix. To
honour the occasion NamPost has produced a stylish limited
edition folder with imperforate stamps featuring Namibia’s
founding and its outgoing and incoming presidents. Namibia’s
presidents have led the country on its democratic path and
the country has enjoyed stability and continuity since its
independence from South African apartheid rule in 1990.
Founding President His Excellency Dr Sam Nujoma brought
freedom and peace to Namibia and served the country wisely
as president for 15 years. He was succeeded in 2005 by His
Excellency Dr Hifikepunye Pohamba, who continued to build
upon the foundation of the young nation. On 21 March 2015,
His Excellency Dr Hage Geingob will become the third president
of Namibia, taking over the responsibility of expanding the
nation’s legacy of peace, stability and prosperity from his
predecessors. For information and orders, contact NamPost at
philately@nampost.com.na or online via www.nampost.com.na.
Third President
Issue date: 21 March 2015 | Artist:
Helge Denker | Products: single
stamp; first-day cover with special
canceller & information insert |
Stamp size: 30 mm x 40 mm |
Quantity: 100,000 stamps; 500
first-day covers
25 Years of Independence
Issue date: 21 March 2015 | Artist: Helge Denker | Products: single-stamp souvenir
sheet; special canceller; limited edition commemorative folder | Stamp size: 75
mm x 25.71 mm | Sheet size: 115 mm x 65 mm | Quantity: 5,000 sheets; 1,000
commemorative folders
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WHAT’S NEW(S)?
A PRISTINE LAND interrupted
The late Paul van Schalkwyk was Namibia’s original fine-art aerial
photographer who set the standard within his genre. He was a
solo adventurer who took risks with a deep personal and spiritual
connection to the land he called home. His documentations of
specific scenes or places were anything but conservative and the
harsh contrasts, remarkable colours and rich textures in these images
truly inspire a feeling of wonder.
An exhibition of his work opened to a packed audience at the FrancoNamibian National Cultural Centre in Windhoek and is now travelling
to Cape Town to be exhibited at the Association of Visual Arts Gallery.
The project is a narrative spanning ten years of Paul’s search for
a pristine land. The show presents the viewer with a multifaceted
encounter of familiar and unfamiliar landscape locations.
Curator, Jackie Ruth Murray, who worked closely
with Paul over the last three years, has designed a
multimedia installation encompassing high-quality
Dibond prints, video/audio recordings of Paul’s flying
missions, textual transcripts detailing research and
GPS coordinates, and physical collections from light
aircrafts. During the month of April the exhibition will
support a public arts programme on environmental
issues in collaboration with partner organisations. For
more information on the event, contact Elmarie van
Rensburg at +264 61 420 521.
Visit the TALA Gallery online at www.tala.com.na or go to the Paul van
Schalkwyk Photography website at www.paulvans.com.
See more of Paul van Schalkwyk's amazing photographs in the
photographic feature on page 46.
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naturally namibia
Photo courtesy of: Paul van Schalkwyk
Fast facts on Namibia
General
Surface area: 824,268 km2
Capital: Windhoek
Independence: 21 March 1990
Current president:
Hage Geingob
Multiparty Parliament
Democratic Constitution
Division of power between executive,
legislature and judiciary
Secular state—freedom of religion (90%
Christian)
Freedom of the press/media
ENVIRONMENT
Nature reserves: 15% of surface area
Highest mountain: Brandberg
Other prominent mountains:
Spitzkoppe, Moltkeblick, Gamsberg
Perennial rivers: Orange, Kunene,
Okavango, Zambezi and Kwando/
Linyanti/Chobe
Ephemeral rivers: Numerous, including
Fish, Kuiseb, Swakop and Ugab
FLORA
14 vegetation zones
120 species of trees
200 endemic plant species
100 plus species of lichen
Living fossil plant: Welwitschia mirabilis
ECONOMY
Main sectors: Mining, Fishing, Tourism
& Agriculture
Biggest employer: Agriculture (46%)
Fastest-growing sector: Tourism
Mining: Diamonds, uranium, copper,
lead, zinc, magnesium, cadmium,
arsenic, pyrites, silver, gold, lithium
minerals, dimension stones (granite,
marble, blue sodalite) and many semiprecious stones
Physical Infrastructure
FOREIGN REPRESENTATION
Roads: 5,450 km tarred, 37,000 km gravel
Harbours: Walvis Bay, Lüderitz
Main Airports: Hosea Kutako
International Airport, Eros Airport, 46
airstrips
Rail network: 2,382 km narrow gauge
6.2 telephone lines per 100 inhabitants
Direct-dialling facilities to 221 countries
Mobile communication system: GSM
Agreements with 117 countries/255
networks
Postal Service: affiliated to the
Universal Postal Union
More than 50 countries have Namibian
consular or embassy representation
in Windhoek.
For information, contact Ministry
of Foreign Affairs, Information and
Broadcasting—Tel (+264 61) 282 9111
Social infrastructure
Money matters
One medical doctor per 3,650 people
Two privately run hospitals in Windhoek
with intensive-care units
Medical practitioners (world standard)
24-hour medical emergency services
Population
2.1 million
Density: 2.2 per km2
240 000 inhabitants in Windhoek
(15% of total)
Official language: English
13 regions, 13 ethnic cultures
16 languages and dialects
Adult literacy rate: 85%
Population growth rate: 2.6%
Schools: 1,450
Fauna
Big game: Elephant, lion, rhino, buffalo,
cheetah, leopard, giraffe
20 antelope species
240 mammal species (14 endemic)
250 reptile species
50 frog species
676 bird species
Endemic birds including Herero Chat,
Rockrunner, Damara Tern,
Monteiro’s Hornbill
Tax and customs
All goods and services are priced to
include value-added tax of 15%. Visitors
may reclaim VAT.
Enquiries: Ministry of Finance—
Tel (+264 61) 23 0773 in Windhoek
Currency: The Namibia dollar (N$) is
fixed to and equals the SA rand. The
South African rand is also legal tender.
Traveller’s cheques, foreign currency,
International Visa, Master Card,
American Express and Diners Club
credit cards are accepted
Drinking water
Most tap water is purified and safe
to drink.
Visitors should exercise caution in
rural areas
Transport
Public transport is NOT available to all
tourist destinations in Namibia.
There are bus services from Windhoek
to Cape Town/Johannesburg/Vic Falls/
Swakopmund. Namibia’s main railway
line runs from the South African border,
connecting Windhoek to Swakopmund
in the west and Tsumeb in the north.
There is an extensive network of
international and regional flights from
Windhoek. Domestic charters to all
destinations.
www.namibiatourism.com.na
HAPPY 25th BIRTHDAY,
NAMIBIA: 25 Must Dos
Text Ron Swilling
Main photographs Paul van Schalkwyk
On 21 March, Namibia celebrates its 25th year of independence. A country with an
ever-growing tourist industry and a strong conservation philosophy, it’s also a treasuretrove of sights and attractions. Extraordinarily, the country, flanked in the west by the
ancient Namib Desert and in the east by the Kalahari, has two perennial rivers on its
northern borders, balancing the arid desert areas with rich and verdant waterworlds.
With a population of just 2.1 million and a vast surface area of 824,268 km², Namibia is
an unusual blend of fascinating cultures, spectacular and otherworldly landscapes and a
network of protected areas with flourishing wildlife populations, which are well protected by
an exemplary conservation ethic enshrined in the country’s constitution. Good infrastructure,
well maintained, ensures that travellers experience a journey of comfort and ease. An
appealing destination for the introvert and extrovert, the adventurer and romantic, young
and old, Namibia will delight and amaze, enthral and inspire. Come and celebrate with us!
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Namibia celebrates
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Elzanne Erasmus
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Ron Swilling
Ron Swilling
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1. Contemplate eternity at the
Fish River Canyon
The second largest canyon in the world offers a breathtaking
and awe-inspiring glimpse into eternity. This millions-year-old
Earth masterpiece has been patiently carved over time by the
Fish River’s meandering journey. Explore the viewpoints
along the rim to gain different perspectives of the yawning
chasms or hike in the canyon depths. A five-day wilderness
trail runs southwards from Hobas to Ai-Ais for the fit and
self-sufficient hiker and a slackpacking option in the northern
reaches provides an alternative for those who enjoy their
creature comforts. Make sure you add this one to your
bucket list!
2. Paddle the Orange River
The mighty Orange River, bordering Namibia and South
Africa, is a shimmering ribbon of water in an arid and tawny
expanse. It is also the place for a great river adventure.
Several operators offer fun-filled canoe trips down river.
With only relatively small rapids to be experienced along the
journey, these adventures are suitable for the whole family,
providing ample excitement and a few bursts of adrenaline.
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3. Visit a quiver tree forest
The corky trees are synonymous with southern Namibia.
Spend sunrise or sunset amongst these special trees that
radiate character and charm. Visit the quiver trees at the
Quiver Tree Forest Restcamp or //Garas Campsite near
Keetmanshoop.
4. View the Wild Horses of the Namib
Mirroring the wild and rugged spirit of Namibia, the Namib
horses survive in the harsh surrounds of the Namib Desert.
They can be viewed from the hide overlooking the Garub
waterhole near Aus, as they canter in with life-affirming
presence and graceful beauty.
5. Stroll through the abandoned
diamond-mining town of Kolmanskop
When diamonds were discovered at the beginning of the
20th century, diamond towns sprang up in the desert. Stroll
through this ghost town on the outskirts of Lüderitz, imagining
the opulence that once graced the desert. A photographer’s
dream, Kolmanskop’s old houses provide dappled light and
picturesque sand collages.
Namibia celebrates
6. Walk and hike in the expansive
Namib-Naukluft Park
treasures, and coffee shops to savour German delicacies. It is
also the adventure capital of Namibia.
Short walks for day-trippers and campers run through the
attractive Naukluft Mountains, while the more seasoned hiker
can enjoy the challenging eight-day Naukluft hiking trail.
11. Take to the dunes or to the sky
7. Savour the otherworldly Sossusvlei
A trip to Sossusvlei is a fantastical journey into a mindboggling landscape of sensuous sand dunes. Climb Big
Daddy dune above Sossusvlei for the best views of the
pan and its surroundings and wander around the arresting
scenery of Deadvlei with its dead camelthorn trees reaching
heavenwards from the chalky pan.
8. Kayak amongst the seals at Pelican
Point, Walvis Bay
A bright and light water journey for the whole family in the still
waters of the lagoon, the kayak trip is an enjoyable excursion
amongst the playful seals.
9. Watch flamingos in the
Walvis Bay lagoon
A RAMSAR site and a world-renowned refuge for waterbirds,
the Walvis Bay lagoon attracts myriad bird species including
lesser and greater flamingos.
10. Enjoy Swakopmund, a slice of
old Germany
The quaint coastal town, sandwiched by desert and sea, has
many curio shops in which to discover Namibian trinkets and
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Sandboard down golden dunes, skydive or take a flight over
the desert. Invigorating adventures await the young at heart.
12. Join a Living Desert Tour
Believe it or not, there is life in the desert. This delicate
ecosystem is home to a plethora of desert-adapted fauna and
flora. Be amazed on this eye-opening adventure into the desert.
13. Camp out at Spitzkoppe
An alcove of granite rocks en route to Swakopmund,
Spitzkoppe is an ideal and rustic overnight stop for those who
enjoy the riches of Mother Nature. It is also a rock-climber’s
paradise. Explore rock arches and caves and watch the granite
transform into gold at the end of the day.
14. Pay your respects at Cape Cross
The windswept promontory of Cape Cross, where the intrepid
Portuguese explorer, Diogo Cão, planted his padrão (cross) in
1486, became a hive of activity in the late 19th century when
guano (a prized fertiliser in Europe) was collected and seal
pelts were harvested. Today, it is the Cape Cross Seal Reserve,
home to a bustling population of Cape fur seals.
15. Journey to the White Lady
At 2,573 m at its uppermost point, the impressive Brandberg is
the highest mountain in Namibia. It also holds a large number
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Ron Swilling
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of rock paintings, including one of Namibia’s most popular.
Initially dubbed the "White Lady" by Henri Breuil in 1955,
is now understood to represent a healer or medicine man
holding a bow and arrow in one hand and a cup or wand
in the other. The Dâureb guides lead visitors on a walk
through the rugged environment, speckled with Brandberg
acacias, to the rock overhang where the White Lady can be
viewed.
16. Marvel at the Twyfelfontein
engravings
At 2,000-6,000 years old, the Twyfelfontein engravings are
an astounding record of the past, preserved in the rock by
Namibia’s arid climate. Once thought to be educational
in nature, a record of events or maps of water points, the
engravings are now believed to be the communication
between the shamans and the gods as they asked for
food, protection, luck for the hunt, healing and rain for
their people. The area is a cathedral of prayers. Groups
of hunter-gatherers gathered in the mountain areas in dry
periods, dependent on the water from the trickling spring.
17. Spot the desert elephants
If you are fortunate and your timing is perfect, you may
be able to catch a glimpse of these free-roaming desertadapted elephants that travel along the dry ephemeral
riverbeds of the country - from the Huab River northwards.
Several lodges offer trips to view these hardy pachyderms.
18. Experience Etosha National Park
Don’t miss this national park in the heart of the country. It
is a haven for wildlife, large and small, which gathers at its
waterholes dotted through the park like a string of water
pearls. The variety of vegetation, chalky character, plethora
of animals and large pan, make this a highly recommended
Namibian excursion.
21. Cruise on the Kwando River
The water world of the Zambezi is a peaceful celebration
of reeds, birds, wildlife and trees. As you weave through
waterlilies and cruising crocodiles, you can hear the chuckling
sounds of hippo, witness the spectacular avian display and
spot animals on the riverbanks.
22. Relish the wealth of wildlife
Bwabwata National Park in the Zambezi region has a wealth
of wildlife, including large buffalo and elephant populations.
Explore on your own (permits available at the Susuwe ranger
station) or join your lodge for a guided excursion. Horseshoe,
an oxbow lake in the river, is a popular place to view elephant.
23. Make your way to Epupa Falls
In the north of the country, Epupa Falls cascades down the
craggy cliffs, observed by several small boabab sentries. A
grove of makalani palms, a rainbow mist and a true African
atmosphere make this an unusual and alluring destination.
24. Be introduced to the Himba culture
For those venturing into the northern extremes of the country
(& driving 4x4s), Purros is a fascinating desert destination for
several reasons: for the chance of seeing the desert elephant
in the Hoarusib riverbed, for the desert scenery and to visit
the Himba village. The Himba welcome you into their village to
reveal their intriguing traditions and beauty rituals.
25. Explore an old African palace
Former home of King Tatekulu (father) Josia Shikongo Taapopi,
the royal Uukwaluudhi residence is an African palace of old,
located in Tsandi in the Omusati region. Surrounded by a thick
mopane-branch palisade it has a series of passageways that
separate living, reception and cooking areas. Keep close to
your guide or you may just get lost in this interesting labyrinth.
Many happy returns! TNN
19. Try some Namibian fare
Come on, I dare you. Kalahari truffles, mopane worms and
the giant termite-hill mushrooms (or omajowa) are a few of
the delicious delicacies. Mopane worms, a favourite and
nutritious dish of the Owambo people, are stored dried and
are rehydrated and cooked with salt for a tasty dish. After
the rains, keep eyes open for sellers along the roadside
flaunting their wares. Kalahari truffles appear in the sandy
eastern regions of the country after late rains and omajowa
are gathered and sold on the road to Swakopmund, near
Wilhelmstal, in the early months of the year.
24
20. Visit a Living Museum
Yes, a living museum. An ingenious concept, living
museums are outdoor ‘museums’ where local groups share
their culture with visitors, simultaneously reinforcing cultural
values and keeping old traditions alive. There are a several
living museums: The Ju/’Hoansi-San Living Museum at
Grashoek en route to Tsumkwe, the Mafwe Living Museum
in the Zambezi, the Mbunza Living Museum in the Kavango
and the Damara Living Museum near Twyfelfontein.
21
generation
Wanderlust
Mahango game park
Text and Photographs Elzanne Erasmus
24
Generation Wanderlust
Wanderlust [won-der-luhst] (n) a strong, innate desire to rove or travel about
T
he future belongs to youth travel,” or so
said a panel of tourism fundies at this year’s
International Tourism Indaba in Berlin. For the
younger generation, whose pockets aren’t as deep
as their dreams are high, it can sometimes feel like
adventure is limited to weekends spent watching
the travel channel or longingly staring at that K-Way
backpack when all they really want to do is go on a
real adventure. Wanderlust is a serious predicament
that inflicts most people at some point in their lives.
Within each human there is this uninhibited urge to
travel. We were not meant to stay in one place, and noone feels this inherent urge to flee the nest more than
the youth, and so the term “Generation Wanderlust”
takes the stage. It is only natural then that a group
of four 20-something Namibians (myself included),
all nature lovers and avid explorers, took to the wellmanaged dust roads of the country we adore to prove
that Namibian tourism is not only open to the foreign
tourist with his traveller cheques in a moonbag, double
extra-length camera lens and Lonely Planet notebook.
We have set off on a mission to explore as much of
Namibia on a shoestring budget, so join us in 2015 on
our adventures: learn to speak Namlish, drool over our
N$20 Wimpy breakfasts and laugh with us around a
campfire after a Windhoek Lager or two.
25
“The next moments passed in a
flash of motion. Sean and Karin
were running full speed toward
the car (neither waiting for the
other) shouting “Lion! Lion!”
The Happiest Place in Namibia
Our first expedition took us north to the Kavango region for a
five-night stay at Ngepi Camp on the banks of the Okavango
River. Our agenda integrated activities such as tigerfishing,
crocodile and hippo cage diving and an afternoon lazing in the
rapids of the Popa Falls. But above all these amazing activities,
our two visits to the Mahango Game Park reigned supreme.
At the heart of one of Africa’s most ambitious conservation
programmes to date, the Kavango-Zambezi Transfrontier
Conservation Area (KaZa TFCA) lies Namibia’s Bwabwata
National Park. The park was established in 2007 by
consolidating the then Caprivi Game Park and Mahango
Game Park as well as a previously unproclaimed area along
the Kwando River. The area, previously known as Mahango
Game Park, now forms the Mahango Core Area of Bwabwata
– Namibia’s best-kept secret. Wedged between the Botswana
border and the Kavango River lies picturesque papyrus-lined
channels, woodlands and floodplains that will completely
reinvent the dry and arid picture you had of Namibia. Like a
Ngepi campsites are surrounded by beautiful trees
Disney World for nature lovers, Mahango Game Park plays host
to all our favourite characters.
The List
We were met with smiling faces as we stopped at the northern
gate of the park on our first morning. The park’s main road also
serves as a throughway to the Namibia-Botswana border post,
so the park is open from sunrise to sunset every day. N$10 per
person and N$10 for the bakkie secured our entrance and we
were all too thankful that we didn’t have to dig too deep into
our kitty. As we drove in we excitedly created a list of animals
we would most like to see: buffaloes for Sean, elephants for
Karin, Carmine Bee-eaters for me and a Chobe bushbuck for
Abe. The park forms part of a critical migration route for African
elephants moving from Botswana to Angola and Zambia. It
is also home to more than 410 bird species as well as a wide
range of mammals, trees and even butterflies. The park has
two routes to choose from and we immediately opted for the
western route. The western section of the park passes by
The world's first "hippo and crocodile diving cage"
the park’s main waterhole, which is where we spotted Karin’s
migrating elephants. Tick. From here the route is accessible
only by 4x4 drive vehicles, and is much less travelled. The
4x4 route allows for a much more rural adventure. Animals are
quite skittish in the dense vegetation, and our first sighting of
Namibian buffaloes was no more than a flash of dark bums and
a rustle in the woods. Tick.
Omurambas that create standing water pools for animals and
enormous baobab trees that protrude above the woodland
canopy characterise the eastern route. Plains game such
as impala, kudu and zebra graze the green grasslands in
abundance. The park is also home to more exotic game such
as sables, roan antelope and tsessebes, who tend to stick
to the more covered areas on the edge of the omurambas.
The eastern route also led us to a beautiful picnic spot,
Kwetche, on the banks of the Okavango River. From here we
could watch hippos yawning in the river and, with the help of
some binoculars, spot hundreds of letchwe grazing along the
riverbanks. The eastern side of the park also treated us to many
more sightings of Sean’s buffaloes, or “Voortrekker tannies”
as Uncle Ernest calls them, with their turned up horns that
resemble the caps worn by the women of the Dorsland trek.
Home to the largest collection of birds in Namibia, Mahango
had me teeming with excitement as I searched trees and skies
for the beautiful migratory Carmine Bee-eater. During the rainy
season Carmine Bee-eaters are known to flock to the area in
huge numbers, but all I was privy to was a quick flit of orangepink wings as a bee-eater flew across the hood of our bakkie.
I was lucky to be able to inspect it for 30 seconds through my
binoculars as it sat on a nearby branch before it flapped off to
a family reunion. This was more than enough time for me to be
able to happily tick a new “lifer” off my list. Other amazing bird
sightings we were equally lucky to come across included four
different kinds of kingfishers, African Hoepoes, Wattled Cranes,
a Marshall Eagle, a Wahlberg’s Eagle, as well as the all too
popular sight of an African Skimmer gliding over the surface of
the river with its bright red bill stroking the water.
The Chobe ‘freaking’ Bushbuck
It was the second time in as many days that we were driving
thought the park. We had seen an astounding number of
animals and were, by this time, well and fully sated. I had just
seen that darn Carmine Bee-eater that I had been looking for
for almost a week. The only thing that we had not spotted was
Abe’s fabled Chobe Bushbuck. I had never even heard of this
specific variant and none of us believed we would see it on
this short trip. Imagine our surprise when, as we were driving
along the gravel road to the east of the main throughway to
Botswana, Abe all of a sudden exclaimed (at an alarmingly
loud pitch): “CHOBE freaking BUSHBUCK!” The car reared
to a halt as Sean hit the breaks and we all spun to the left in
a frenzy, eyes wide and ready. A flash of brown fur, the zip of
white stripes and the flit of a fluffy white tail was all I saw as
Abe’s unicorn darted off into the thick bush. I realise that the
defining characteristics I have named here are akin to those of
a kudu, a nyala, or your run-of-the-mill bushbuck, but there is
no doubting Abe’s certainty. The Chobe Bushbuck could be
ticked off our list.
Mahango Game Park Fast Facts:
• Open from sunrise to sunset throughout the year
• Best time for game-viewing: June to October
• Best time for bird watching: November to March
• Picnic site on the banks of the Okavango River
• Entry permits available at the northern park gate
• Entrance to the park is 15 km south-east of Popa Falls (en route to Botswana)
• Visitors are permitted to explore the park on foot, at their own risk, but as there
are dangerous animals present, caution must be taken.
Chobe Bushbuck Fact File
An old buffulo bull is often referred to as a "Dagga boy"
The Lion in the Leopard Tree
gigantic tree to tumble. We stopped on the road and decided
to inspect the tree which lay with its roots exposed 15
meters away. Mahango Game Park is one of the only parks in
Namibia that allow visitors to exit their vehicles and explore
the park on foot. I walked away from the tree so that I could
“A flash of brown fur, the zip of
white stripes and the flit of a fluffy
white tail was all I saw as Abe’s
unicorn darted off into the thick
bush...”
Sean McCulloch
While driving through the park you might notice the wide
variety of flora. Enormous acacias and baobab trees shelter
the park’s inhabitants and entice visitors to diligently look at
every branch for that rare sighting of a leopard lazing the day
away. As we drove along we intermittently commented on
overhanging branches, saying that if we were leopards those
would definitely be branches we would claim kingship of. Every
second tree was a great “leopard tree”, but alas we were not
treated to any spots…
One of the most spectacular trees in the park also serves as
a park landmark. The Giant Baobab is found on the eastern
route next to the river. On our way to this popular spot we
found a neighbouring baobab that had recently fallen over. I
have no idea what natural phenomenon would cause such a
• The Chobe Bushbuck differs in colour from a darker variant
more commonly associated with the dense coastal belt of
South Africa’s eastern seaboard, and although common in
Botswana is seldom seen on Namibian game drives.
• Male: Shoulder height 80 cm, tail 20 cm, mass 45 kg
• Female: Shoulder height 70 cm, tail 20 cm, mass 30 kg
• Average horn length 26 cm
• Record horn length 52,07 cm
• Identification pointers: Small bright-chestnut to dark-brown
antelope; presence of vertical white stripes and spots on
sides of the body to greater or lesser extent, more so in
north; broad ears; short bushy tail, dark above and white
below; ram has short, almost straight horns with slight
spiral and ridge.
• Habitat: Riverine woodland and bush associated with water,
from coastal dune bush to montane forest, and from sea
level to an altitude of 1,800 m in South Africa
A Grey-headed Kingfisher perches on a branch as a tsessebe looks on in the background.
get a good angle for a photo (I had my long camera lens on)
while the others walked toward it to explore. As Abe headed
back to the bakkie to fetch something and I peered through
my viewfinder, a loud roar sounded from somewhere not too
far away. The next moments passed in a flash of motion.
Sean and Karin were running at full speed toward the car
(neither waiting for the other) shouting “Lion! Lion!” All four
of us were in the car within a nanosecond. Out of breath
and with adrenalin pumping we slowly drove along the road
that led around the fallen tree to try and see where the lion
was. We never saw mane or tail of a lion. We even went
back the following day after having debated the possibilities
(could it have been a leopard?) to inspect the tree further.
All we ever saw near that tree was an impala ram. Do impala
rams roar?
Get your wanderlust engine roaring
The next time you feel that familiar itch and the call of the wild
is beckoning don’t hesitate for too long. The most money you’ll
spend will probably go towards your car’s fuel tank, which you
would have emptied anyway on trips to the mall and back, or
waiting in 5 o’clock traffic in the big city. Jump in your bakkie,
or Polo, or Golf, and hit the road. Stop at every Wimpy for a
mega coffee and a bacon and egg toastie. Buy a makoro next
to the road. Dig into a monkey orange with your fingers. Camp
under an enormous tree. Attempt to catch a tigerfish. Explore
every wonder Namibia has to offer. Live a little! We are certainly
planning to… TNN
Follow the Dustroader Diaries Checklist online
@ travelnewsnamibia.com/guestblogs
Most of the lodges along the river offer tigerfishing exursions
Ngepi Camp is home to many quirky bathrooms and signs.
Book your next stay in the Kavango region through
StayToday. Go to www.staytoday.com.na for a variety
of accommodation options, or explore the 2015 edition
of Namibia Holiday & Travel for community campsites in
the area.
29
Calling on the Capital
Text and photographs Marita van Rooyen
A first-timer’s guide to Windhoek
Text Marita van Rooyen
Photographs Paul van Schalkwyk
B
y now you’ve read all about its conservation successes, groundbreaking sustainable
development policies, and local empowerment initiatives. Crowned as the jewel of
Africa on the Forbes top three travel destinations for 2015, and highlighted as Lonely
Planet’s number two on the Best in Travel 2015 list, it’s on the lips of many a travel guru.
The guidebooks and internet sites have recommended the top to dos and must sees, and
you’ve come all geared up for the occasion: sun hat swinging around your neck, binoculars
and zoom lens within reach, and mosquito repellent in your back pocket (especially if you’re
going up north during the rainy season).
But how prepared are you really for the first introduction to this African experience of
a lifetime?
A Reception by the Chief
The official entry to Namibia is routed via the country’s one and only International Airport
(except if you opted to take the less obvious path via the coastal port of Walvis Bay).
Named after the great chief Hosea Kutako – considered a national hero because of his
role in the country’s fight for independence, and founder of our first nationalist party,
SWANU – it is here where you’ll be greeted with the first set of surprises.
For starters, the journey from the aircraft to the arrival terminal is done on foot, and the
building itself qualifies to land up on the list of smallest airports in the world. Listings
aside, the custom officials are efficient, and if you haven’t taken any chances to smuggle
illegal substances into the country, you might very well find yourself on the long stretch to
the capital within less than an hour after landing.
Buy handmade crafts at a number of street markets or curio shops.
Welcome to Namibia – the land of friendly faces,
wide-open spaces, and great wild places!
31
It’s this very extension of motorway – officially known as
the Trans-Kalahari Highway – that acts as the opening
presentation of 6,664 km of smooth, un-potholed, bitumen
surface, forming part of a well-established road network of
over 46,645 km that stretches across this vast land.
And a well-developed infrastructure is just the start...
The Capital Calls
Windhoek is often described as a city with a "continental"
atmosphere, and with good reason. As you enter official
city boundaries, expect to be welcomed by lifestyle villages
and housing estates, constructed in a fashion very much
like those in other parts of the globe. Closer to the centre,
historical German buildings dominate the architectural
vistas, while informal settlements bring the beat of a
modern African city.
Ai/ /Gams and Otjomuise – both referring to the occurrence
of hot springs in the area – to that of Winterhoek, which
under German rule became Windhuk, and subsequently,
Windhoek.
The Windhoek of today has all the amenities of any other
modern city, plus a few extras, like drinkable tap water
and some of the cleanest streets on the planet. And as the
country’s main hub of activity, the city has much to offer the
weary traveller.
Feed your Curiosity
Perhaps a good way to ease into the experience is to book a
tranquil afternoon in one of the city’s exclusive spa facilities,
of which the Diplomat Hydro Spa, Oukolele Day Spa and
Nomad African Spa (with calabashes as massage aids, a
true embodiment of African Zen) are prime examples of
pampering and relaxation.
Of course, formerly, long before contemporary urban
developments like traffic lights (locally known as "robots"),
high-rise buildings, or one of the largest shopping malls
in Africa (the Grove Mall at 55,000 square metres is the
biggest in Africa outside South Africa), life here was
different. Back then, in the early 1840s, the capital didn’t
consist of much more than a homestead located in the airy
basin between three mountain ranges, ruled by Captain Jan
Jonker Afrikaner.
Other means of adjusting to local life might entail a
sundowner of choice at one of the city’s "look-out" points,
with Am Weinberg, Hotel Heinitzburg, the Wine Bar, and the
Hilton Sky Bar boasting the most romantic city views, topped
with some very impressive wine selections. If you prefer to
be on ground level, the Stellenbosch Wine Bar is another
renowned spot for connoisseurs, with additional drawing
cards like a tasting room, bistro and speciality restaurant.
Jan was the same Afrikaner who was responsible for the
name the city carries today, changing it from the original /
For the culinary curious, visit the world-famous Joe’s
Beerhouse to experience the flavour of Namibia’s prime
You can enjoy a truly Namibian steak at a wide variety of restaurants.
Explore the city's nooks and crannies.
explore windhoek
export quality free-range beef from Meatco’s "nature
reserve", or leaner home-grown meat varieties like kudu,
gemsbok, zebra, or hartebeest. Gathemann’s is another
popular choice, with gourmet food handcrafted from the
finest ingredients, served within a historical setting. As
one of the earliest German-designed buildings to pop up
in the city, it looks out onto Independence Avenue and the
city’s greenest spot, Zoo Park. The park itself hosts some
interesting memorials, including one marking the spot where
elephant bones were excavated in the fifties. It also plays
host to the annual /Ae //Gams Arts and Culture Festival,
celebrating the cultural diversity of the city.
Apart from its notable reputation as a conservation
destination, Namibia is also well known as one of the
world’s top-notch producers of diamonds. Fine specimens
of these shiny little forever stones are cut, polished, shaped,
and available to take home at the Diamond Works. Located
within the Old Breweries Complex, it is worth a stop even if
just to pass through the Namibia Craft Centre, with its array
of authentic handmade goods. Putting all 824,269 square
kilometres of the country together under one roof, the
centre creates opportunities for local artists, craftsmen and
communities to build profitable businesses, ranging from
unique folk art and fashionable embroidery to contemporary
jewellery and sought-after designs.
Other local producers worth a visit are Casa Anin, where
handmade Namibian linen and home textiles reign
supreme; Nakara, home to Swakara garments and worldrenowned leather goods; and Pambili Young Designers
and My Republik, both showcasing the latest fashions by
local designers. There’s also a selection of state-of-theart shopping malls, with all the top chain stores (minus
McDonald’s), coffee shops, and eateries in between.
Men, or other non-shoppers, can keep themselves occupied
by hitting a few balls around the 18-hole, fully grassed, par71 course at the Windhoek Country Club, or by taking part
in one of the sporting events listed to the right.
Night owls and culture seekers will also be happy to know
that there is a constant selection of music concerts, theatre
performances, exhibitions, and local and international film
screenings, hosted by establishments like the Warehouse
Theatre, National Theatre, National Art Gallery, Omba
Gallery, Goethe Centre, Franco-Namibian Cultural Centre,
and College of the Arts.
Into the Beyond
So there you have it: Windhoek, the city of many faces, has
it all. If you can dream it, you will find it. And not too far
from the city gates either (if you really search hard), you will
find the wildlife wandering as it did in Captain Afrikaner’s
time: freely and without disturbance, across the vast space
that is Namibia. TNN
Marita van Rooyen
Souvenirs and Entertainment
Experience a calabash treatment at Nomad African Spa.
Events in the city
If you’re into music, arts, or culture, plan your visit to the city
around one or more of these festivals:
•
Bank Windhoek Arts Festival, year-round
•
/Ae //Gams Arts and Culture Festival, April
•
Windhoek Carnival (WIKA), April
•
Hart van Windhoek Music Festival, September
•
Oktoberfest, October
•
Jazz Festival, November.
For the more active, there is a plethora of sporting events
happening within city boundaries, including:
•
Impi Challenge, January
•
DTS Volleyball-for-All, February
•
Nedbank Cycle Challenge, February
•
Red Square Winter Duathlon, June-October
•
Biathle Championships, July
•
Dr Sam Nujoma Half Marathon, July
•
Namibia National MTB Cross Country
Championships, July
•
Telecom Windhoek City Run, August
•
OTB Xtrail, August
•
Cycletech Spring Festival, September
•
Namibian Pick n Pay Cycle Classic, October
For a complete list of events, dates and tickets, visit
www.staytoday.com.na.
33
1 MAKING A STATEMENT
Namcrafts has opened a new shop at the Grove Mall
of Namibia. Upon walking into the store your eyes are
immediately riveted to the beautiful colourful displays
along the walls. Good luck if you think it’s an easy
task to buy something there, because every piece is
as lovely and unique as the next. Namcrafts aims to
bring customers one-of-kind products directly from the
crafter. Indigenous Namibian crafters are employed to
create the authentic pieces that buyers have grown to
love over the past 20 years. Statement necklaces are
timeless and Namcrafts has them in abundance. There
are necklaces available in an assortment of lengths and
colours, made from beads, metals and natural materials.
Every necklace is meticulously handmade by Namibian
crafters and will be the perfect touch to a day or night
ensemble. Contact Namcrafts at +264 61 25 0342 or
email them at info@namcrafts.com.
TNN SHOPPING
Short necklace N$150
Long necklace N$165
Compiled Sanet van Zijl
2 UNCAPPED BY NATURE
When visiting the Namibian Craft Centre, be sure to make a stop
at Big Five Arts & Crafts. They have all kinds of African crafts and
there’s a story behind every item. They prefer to stock Namibian
products in order to support local trade, culture and tradition.
Most of the crafters supplying the shop with its incredible artwork
make a living out of it. Examples of this artwork are the fascinating
bottle openers. Their collection consists of carved, warthog
tooth, springbok horn and wooden openers made by Kavango
and Caprivian artists. Seeing that it’s rugby season, the guys will
love to use these for opening a few bottles at the Saturday braai.
Contact Nangula at +264 81 32 42 094.
Warthog tooth N$350
Springbok horn N$220
Assorted N$150
3 PROUDLY NAMIBIAN AT KAAPSE TAFEL
We discovered some proudly Namibian products at Kaapse Tafel
Town Stall, situated at Ferreira’s Garden Centre. This little shop
is known for its quality proteas and fynbos from South Africa, but
they also stock goods from small-time farm kitchen brands in
Namibia. Those of you who love good, old-style treats fresh from
the farm will enjoy what they have to offer. The Gross Osombahe
food range is one of the unique brands offered here (and only
here). It contains products made for the kitchen table from the
farm table. Various cheeses, butters and free-range eggs are
available and the products are completely organic. Contact
Kaapse Tafel at +264 81 420 3009 or visit their Facebook page at
www.facebook.com/kaapsetafel.
Brie N$36,25
34
Camembert N$55,50
Butterfett N$30
WHAT TO BUY
4 ENJOY YOUR TEA THE BUSHVELD WAY
Situated at Namibian Craft Centre, Touba Africa Art Gallery
boasts a collection of souvenirs from all over Africa. Many of
the artifacts in this shop are used in traditional ceremonies and
funerals. Keeping up with traditions, many of us like to have a
morning or afternoon tea and Touba has the perfect Namibian
metal mugs for just that. These mugs are hand-painted in
colourful designs, featuring Namibian animals. You can even take
them with you on your travels, because these sturdy babies won’t
break. Make contact with the people at Touba at +264 61 228 710
or email ibadiop74@gmail.com.
Small mugs N$45
Large mugs N$65
5 A GIFT FOR EVERY OCCASION
If you’re struggling to find a small, yet personal, gift
to give to a lady look no further than The Avant Garde
Gift Shop, situated at old Wilde Eend Nursery. This
tiny shop is filled with character and quirky items.
The women who work there make an assortment of
gifts for in- and outside the home: wooden crosses,
mobiles, tea cups and quilt work – you’ll find it all
there. Nearly every item in the shop is handmade and
painted with intricate detail on the premises. To learn
more about their products contact Adelheid Smit at
+264 81 325 4771.
Oven mitts N$120
Crosses N$130
6 SOMETHING FOR THE LITTLE ONES
Artisan at Namibian Craft Centre stocks knitted dolls of many shapes and colours. These dolls are
made by !Kung women who live in Northern Namibia in a remote settlement in Ohangwena.
Most of them are part of San tribes who now live on resettlement farms. They were taught
skill development and now they use their talents to make these adorable creations.
Each type of animal-shaped doll has a
name written on its tag and these are
the perfect bedtime cuddly toys for
small children. Give Artisan a visit at
Craft Centre, opposite Craft Café.
You may also like to contact them at
+264 61 242 799 or email at
marketing@omba.org.na.
Makena Mongoose Doll N$100
Sam Springhare Doll N$130
35
The top 100 birds of Etosha
ETOSHA IS LIKE GOOD BRANDY – ALWAYS A BARGAIN!
Text and photographs Pompie Burger
Lesser Kestrel (Falco naumanni)
36
BIRDING
Since the upgrades and improvements were done to Etosha’s rest camps in
2007 – a most timely exercise considering the Etosha National Park turned
100 that year – many people commented that the accommodation in the
park had become too expensive. Nevertheless, after a recent visit, and yet
another and another, I came to the conclusion that this really is one of our
country’s top birding destinations, comparable to any of the best game parks
in Africa. So when it comes to footing the bill, compare Etosha to brandy –
one with a superb vintage of excellent quality.
37
Okaukuejo
Rock Martin, Pearl-spotted Owlet, Fork-tailed Drongo, Crimson-breasted Shrike, Acacia Pied Barbet, Purple Roller,
African Hoopoe, Common Scimitarbill, White-bellied Sunbird, Groundscraper Thrush
Ever since my first visit, this camp has been my favourite venue for bird-watching, braaiing and waterholing.
The massive sociable-weaver nest right next to the waterhole, as well as the two others on the border of the
camping area (the private bin for the campers), offer an excellent microcosmos of various other bird species
such as Pygmy Falcons and Rosy-faced Lovebirds – even before you can take your first sip. During autumn one
of my favourite spots in the camp is the rockery in front of the gas station with its Aloe hereroensis. Occupying
the middle of the road with a camera and tripod (unfortunately the best spot for taking pictures) invites looks
from passing tourists that vary from sympathy to pure disgust (usually from the klippies and coke brigade). In
summer, look out for the African Cuckoo in the camp. If it’s very quiet, it must be an African. If it’s very noisy, it’s
a Common, because the Common is very vocal, and the African is not (rather like the difference between having
a double and a single).
Halali
White-crested Helmet-Shrike, African Scops-Owl, Southern White-faced Scops-Owl, Southern White-crowned
Shrike, Violet Wood-Hoopoe, Carp’s Tit, Damara Hornbill, Rüppell’s Parrot, Burchell’s Starling
Being a halfway shebeen between Okaukuejo and Namutoni, Halali has become a very popular destination,
not only for the ice cream, but also because it’s a haven for the braai brigade, especially those coming from
Namutoni where there are no braai facilities (what a pity!). There are always a few endemics hanging around
during the daytime, so taking a stroll around the camp will invariably bring some surprises for the bird-watcher.
Ever since my first visit to this camp when I was introduced to the world of owls by Albert Swartz, I have not
visited Halali without seeing an owl.
Namutoni
Barn-Owl, Marico Sunbird, Violet-backed Starling, Red-faced Mousebird, African Red-eyed Bulbul, Scarlet-chested
Sunbird, Red-billed Buffalo-Weaver, Wattled Starling, Crested Francolin, African Palm-Swift
When you’re coming from the western part of Etosha, it’s often difficult to tear yourself away from the mopane
woodland, which has its own special flair. But once you’ve reached the eastern part of Etosha with its much
higher rainfall, the diversity of birds increases in direct proportion. I must confess that the camp with its castle
has lost a bit of its magic since being upgraded to a rather more upmarket but Namibian-unfriendly camp
(maybe we’re just a bit downmarket).
Crimson-breasted Shrike (Laniarius atrococcineus)
Crested Francolin (Dendroperdix sephaena)
BIRDING
Double-banded Courser (Rhinoptilus africanus)
However, the fort hasn’t lost its magic with the massive
coral tree and ficus trees still attracting many birds
during summertime, especially lots of sweet-toothed and
vegetarian ones. In the context of 100 years, we are looking
at a very mature brandy in the age-old tradition! I wonder if
this is the reason why we Namibians are still a bit sceptical
about the camp (not enough meat?). The camping and dayvisitors’ areas are still worth a visit, but you wonder if the
price of such short excursions is not somewhat excessive.
Despite all these complaints, I still love the eastern part of
the park.
Fischer’s Pan
Greater Flamingo, Lesser Flamingo, Marabou Stork, Abdim’s
Stork, Greater Painted-snipe, Blacksmith Lapwing, Blackheaded Heron, Black-winged Stilt, Blue Crane, Little Grebe
From Namutoni all roads lead to Rome, as in to Fischer’s
Pan. This is by far my favourite route in Etosha. For the
past 10 or more years (avoid anything less than 10) the
pan had water, to a greater or lesser extent. Obviously, the
more water, the more birds and the bigger the variety. The
flamingos’ breeding also depends on the amount of rain
that has fallen (for brandy and water). You cannot believe
the change that takes place once the water has made its
appearance. I suppose most of the birds also have some
difficulty to act normal.
The plains
Double: Kori Bustard, Northern Black Korhaan, Red-crested
Korhaan, Ludwig’s Bustard, Spotted Thick-knee, Doublebanded Courser, Crested Francolin, Swainson’s Spurfowl,
Common Ostrich, Crested Guineafowl
Single: Lilac-breasted Roller, Capped Wheatear, Marico
Flycatcher, Dusky Lark, Spike-heeled Lark, Lesser Grey Shrike,
Scaly-feathered Finch, Kalahari Scrub-Robin, Chestnutbacked Sparrowlark
The plains are the areas between the various camps in
Etosha. This might seem like a very blonde statement, but
there are times when you shouldn’t overestimate certain
species. Although, as far as colour is concerned, this is not
the epicentre of variety, the musical options that especially
the LBJ birds offer are more than enough compensation
for the lack of colour. The "doubles" make up for their lack
in colour with their sheer size and fascinating behaviour,
such as the Kori Bustard and Red-crested Korhaan male’s
elaborate mating display during spring. For the colourcoded part of the population, the migrants provide a few
brilliant additions.
39
Lappet-faced Vulture (Aegypius tracheliotos)
Raptors
Migrants
Martial Eagle, Southern Pale Chanting Goshawk, Gabar
Goshawk, Red-necked Falcon, Greater Kestrel, Peregrine
Falcon, African Hawk-Eagle, Lanner Falcon, Lappet-faced
Vulture, Secretarybird
Game parks are known for their lions and raptors, and
Etosha is no exception. The over 40 raptors (almost 70%
of all the raptors in Namibia) occurring in Etosha always
make a visit to the park worthwhile. During the rainy
season there is also an influx of visitors from the north
(not Oshakati), which brings the necessary diversity.
European Bee-eater, Yellow-billed Kite, European Roller,
Black Cuckoo, Jacobin Cuckoo, African Cuckoo, Black
Kite, Lesser Kestrel, Red-footed Falcon, Abdim’s Stork
There are rumours that most of the migrants plan to stay
over for the winter season, but this hasn’t been confirmed
yet. There are some concerns that need sorting out (nothing
to do with the new prices, or the vintage). Although the
temperatures can be quite high in summer, this should
not deter the bird-watching connoisseur from enjoying the
spectacle of birds from up north; nor should the quality of
the vintage.
Onkoshi
Southern Pale Chanting Goshawk (Melierax canorus)
40
Shoebill, African Finfoot, Mute Swan, Angola Pitta, Lesser
Frigatebird, Puffin, Golden Eagle, Wandering Albatross,
King Penguin, Macaroni Penguin
When looking at the impressive list of birds to be seen
at this exclusive camp, it is no wonder the area is good
enough for the most crowned brandy, to wit a rather
complex, balanced cognac. I must confess, most of these
birds are still on my wish list, so you can imagine that I still
have to stay over at Onkoshi, and certainly – if the CEO of
Namibia Wildlife Resorts were to invite me for a weekend – I
would be more than happy to share an oak-matured brandy
on the rocks, or the sand, with him.
BIRDING
Dolomite Camp
Hartlaub’s Spurfowl (Francolin), Bare-cheeked Babbler,
White-tailed Shrike, Rockrunner, Carp’s Tit, Damara
Hornbill, Monteiro’s Hornbill, Chestnut Weaver, Cinnamonbreasted Bunting, Bronze-winged Courser
This new camp is a most welcome addition to the four
existing camps, as it allows visitors to explore this western
part of Etosha, until now an unexplored area of the park
that was not open to the public. The entrance through the
Otjovasandu Gate allows you to view this mountainous
area with its own brand of magic and bird populations.
Being part of the pro-Namib Region, it is no surprise that
endemics are very common here. The fact that Hobatere is
no longer on the circuit makes this the ideal substitute.
Looking at all the pros and the very few cons, this
eau-de-vie story does not sound too far-fetched. It is,
indeed, still the double-distilled pot brandy of Namibia’s
resorts. After each visit you will feel refreshed with a
small barrel of maturated brandy that leaves you with a
soft and enchanting aftertaste. This is indeed an
addictive experience.
PS
When Etosha turned 100 in 2007, I thought it appropriate to
write an article as a sort of celebration and follow-up to my
previous articles on Etosha. It was written in Afrikaans for the
Weg magazine in South Africa, which generously published it,
obviously with a few alterations (it’s not only Amy who does
this). For the purpose of the book, I translated and made a
few adjustments back to normal. I thought it appropriate to
add the following as a gesture of tongue-in-cheek thanks to
the editor. TNN
Five things you should know about Etosha
1. It is situated in Namibia.
2. There are animals in the park.
3. There is no KFC or Spur there.
4. A four-wheel drive vehicle is optional.
5. There are no strikes or mass-action there (except for
the springbokkies’ mass action).
Five birds you will definitely not see in Etosha
1. Dodo
2. Macaroni Penguin
3. King Penguin
4. Wilson’s Storm-Petrel
5. Spectacle Petrel (Guess who’s been to the Antarctic?)
Five things you should take along
1. Police protection
2. Snorkel
3. Thermal underwear
4. Omega 3
5. Surfboard (Ian had his with him on our last visit)
African Pipit (Anthus cinnamomeus)
The meat man at
moon mountain
Text and photographs Elzanne Erasmus
N
amibians are in no way strangers to a good braai. The
South Africans may have claimed the term “braai”
as their own. It is an essential part of their national
heritage; they have even replaced their National Heritage Day
with National Braai Day. Many believe, however, that it is the
Namibians who have perfected the art of turning amazing
specimens of meat (such as you can only find within our
borders) into culinary delights that make you wonder how it
could be in any way possible for anyone to be a vegetarian.
In Namibia, where there is smoke, there is a braai. I’ve heard
fellow countrymen laugh off the idea of having chicken or fish
on a Saturday night, because as we all know, white meat is
pretty much a vegetable. The most important aspect that needs
to be realised when dissecting the ins and outs of the braai, its
mechanics and composition, is that it is in no way dependent
on these trivial factors. A true braai finds its essence in the
all-encompassing sense of community that a group of likeminded individuals find when gathered around a smouldering
fire. It is perfected while drinking beer or wine or coke, chatting
about life and love and what the referee did wrong this time.
That jovial spirit seeps much deeper into the meat than the
salt, Worcestershire sauce or Jimmy’s ever will. The braai isn’t
a primal way of cooking meat for survival purposes. It’s an
institution that we as southern Africans have built our culture
around. It is the chops on the grill in someone’s backyard, the
*Kapana: meat grilled on an open fire, often sold at local markets.
42
kapana* being enjoyed by a group of friends watching the Brave
Warriors and the boerewors roll eaten around the campfire
under an unbelievable Namibian night sky.
It came as a culture shock when I received a very strange
invitation to dinner at Moon Mountain Lodge near Sossusvlei
late last year. The invitation was gladly received (who says
no thanks to a Sossusvlei lodge visit and free food?), but
something about it irked me. The intention behind the invite was
to come and experience a celebrity chef from the Netherlands…
braaiing. I will admit that I reread the email quite a few times.
When I read the words “celebrity chef from the Netherlands”
the foodie within me sat up straighter, but then followed the
words “BushKitchen” and “braai”. Now, I’ve never been to the
Netherlands, but I thought I knew enough about Dutch culture
to be able to logically exclude the word “braai” from their
vocabulary, not to mention their menus. Nonetheless I was there
on the prescribed day, ready and willing to see what it was that
these Dutchmen were going to attempt to teach us Namibians
about our own culture. Low and behold – the surprise of a
lifetime. What I found was a group of friends and avid travellers
who had explored various African destinations and were not
first-time visitors to Namibia. Among them was the man I had
come to meet, Harm-Jan Bloem, the Braai Master. Known in
the Netherlands as “The BBQ Man”, Harm-Jan is a popular
Foodies
Harm-Jan injecting the meat with bouillon
celebrity chef. He has been on a cooking show on Dutch
television, catered to private functions, music festivals and
even VIP lounges attended by rock stars. He is also one of the
main judges at the annual Jack Daniel's World Championship
Invitational Barbecue held at the Jack Daniel’s Distillery.
Harm-Jan’s passion lies in his BushKitchen adventures,
though. He has braaied in various African countries, in national
parks with game rangers as his dinner guests, and has even
joined Marlice and Rudie van Vuuren for a braai alongside the
cheetahs at N/a’an ku sê.
Among the group accompanying Harm-Jan on his most
recent trip through Namibia was a lifelong friend, Marcello
Pacenti. Raised in South Africa, Marcello was the one who
first introduced Harm-Jan to the braai culture, and he hasn’t
missed a bite since. The two-day visit went by in a blur of
eager chatter, sundowner drives and the keen excitement that
always accompanies making new friends. I found that these
were key ingredients for a great braai long before the meat
went on the fire.
When it came to the actual event, the Big Braai, Harm-Jan
was welcomed into the lodge’s tented kitchen area by resident
chef Alexa Wiehahn. Alexa had already spent most of the day
preparing extra dishes for the night’s dinner, which would be
attended by the other guests staying at the lodge as well. HarmJan’s task was to braai and Alexa and her team created side
dishes to round off his main menu item, a springbok leg. After
all, as Marcello pointed out: “Harm-Jan is the meat man, not the
vegetable man”. The kitchen exploded into something akin to an
episode of MasterChef Australia and I diligently snapped away
44
with the camera as he threw together stock (known as bouillon),
spiced the meat and precooked it slightly. The stock was then
injected straight into the meat using an enormous silver syringe
straight out of a Hitchcock film. The most exciting part was the
flame-grilling finale. Harm-Jan is sponsored by Jack Daniel’s
and as such uses the whiskey in all his cooking. A bottle of Jack
Daniel’s, complete with a spraying cap, was his very original
version of a “secret sauce” and made the flames jump around
the “springbokkie’s” leg excitedly.
Harm-Jan made his obligatory speech as he presented his
friends and family, as well as the rest of the lodge’s guests,
with the final product, a perfectly medium-rare springbok leg.
The first taste was a wake-up call. The Jack Daniel’s gives the
meat the most surprising and amazing salty-sweet caramelized
taste. I had never tasted anything like it and every bite was an
adventure. Alexa’s accompanying sides and her mouthwatering
goat (boerbokkie) pie rounded the evening’s menu off to
something that not even Gordon Ramsey could find fault with.
A spectacular lodge with friendly and welcoming hosts,
situated in one of the most amazing areas of Namibia, a
group of new friends and a whiskey-soaked springbokkie on
the flames accumulated in an experience I will never forget.
Harm-Jan and his group set off the following day to their
next destination, a Christmas braai at Phalaborwa. I was sad
that I wouldn’t quite fit into one of their suitcases, especially
not after the previous night’s spread. I never thought I would
award a title such as Braai King to a non-Namibian, but the
Meat Man at Moon Mountain’s braai was hands down the best
I had ever had…(sorry Dad). TNN
Foodies
Enjoy Harm-Jan’s springbokkie for yourself!
Ingredients:
• Springbokkie leg including loin
• Stock of springbokkie with fresh vegetables
• Olive oil
• Rosemary
• Sambal
• BushKitchen herbs (vegetable herbs, chilli, garlic, onion and cajun)
• Garlic cloves
• Onion
• Chilli pepper
• Soy sauce
• Sweet BBQ rub
• Jack Daniel’s
• Braai salt
More INfo
To book your stay at the spectacular Moon Mountain Lodge
visit www.staytoday.com.na for amazing deals and getaway
packages.
You can see some of Harm-Jan’s most spectacular braai
destinations on his website (www.bushkitchen.nl), Facebook
page or YouTube channel (Google translate will assist with the
language barrier).
Preparation:
Make a marinade of BBQ rub, olive oil, chilli, braai salt,
vegetable seasoning, garlic and soy sauce.
Spread the marinade over the leg with a brush.
Insert a notch in the soft flesh every 10 cm with a knife and
put a clove of garlic into each indentation.
Lay the leg on the braai directly over the fire (this sears the
meat nicely), and turn the leg regularly.
Inject the leg with the stock every 4 cm and spray the leg
every 10 minutes with Jack Daniels. This will caramelize
the meat and give it a nice brown colour. This can also be
done with apple juice.
Grill the leg for 30 minutes on the barbecue, depending on
the size of the leg. There should be a crust and the meat
must not yarn.
Take a baking dish and place the leg into it. Pour the
remainder of the stock over the leg. Put fresh rosemary
sprigs on the leg and into the stock.
Place the dish in an oven pre-heated to 160-170 °C,
depending on the thickness of the leg, for one hour to one
and a half hour in the oven and let the leg yarn until the core
temperature of the springbokkie is 50 °C (medium-rare).
Remove the leg and let it rest until the meat is tackled.
Serve the leg with the stock from the oven, fresh rosemary
and salt to taste.
45
otjimbondona
kalahari
The place of the “little” camelthorns and
the grand views
A
s one turns off the tarred road just past Windhoek’s
International Airport, the adventure starts. Namibian
author Piet van Rooyen wrote recently that this region
has always been an important haven for game. Even today
the highest density of game per square kilometre in Namibia
is found here. It is a natural reservoir of animals, a kind of
paradise, he wrote. And so it is. Along the side of the white
gravel road, and behind ordinary or high game fences, we
spot gemsbok, kudu, duiker, hartebeest, impala, steenbok
and warthog – even a giraffe. We marvel at the thick billowing
clouds against the clear blue sky and the smell of the damp
red earth.
Wilfred and Anita Slaney’s history is rooted in the Namibian
soil. To grow up on a farm in Africa creates a connection
that stays part of you forever. So when they had the choice
to further their engineering careers outside the country of
their birth, they opted to bring up their children in Namibia.
After more than 20 years in the tourism sector, they took
the bold step to invest in an upmarket lodge with four
exclusive villas on the farm where Wilfred’s grandparents
had settled almost a hundred years ago. In the Herero
language Otjimbondona means the place of the little camel
thorns. But don’t be fooled. The camel thorn trees along
the way to the farm east of the capital are all but small.
The Herero people called it that, because from the place
where Wilfred’s grandmother built her house on top of a
46
hill, the trees do look small compared to the endless vista. The
Slaneys’ knowledge of what visitors want, their love of the land
and their warm Namibian hospitality are evident when you step
out of your car on top of the hill, in awe of the breathtaking,
360-degree view. Against this backdrop stands a most amazing
modern architecturally designed structure with, at the heart of
it, the original rooms of grandmother Slaney, built in the local
stone by an Italian stonemason. The wooden deck with infinity
pool facing the setting sun, a modern gym with a view, deep
leather couches, breezy fabric and lovely artwork, Methode
Cap Classique on ice, warm home-baked bread and secluded
elegant villas, these tell only part of the story.
advertorial
One of four secluded villas, each with its own plunge pool on the
deck, an elevated sala* on stilts among the trees, with suspended
chairs to watch the activities at your private waterhole.
Enjoy a romantic dinner under the stars.
* Open pavilion, used as a meeting place and to protect people from sun and rain.
The first part of the story started in the 1980s when Wilfred,
who had obtained his pilot’s licence as a student, flew guests
for the late Louw Schoeman’s Skeleton Coast Safaris. “For me,
a pilot is not only a pilot, but also a host, a guide, an important
leader of the group, who must ensure the best experience for
the guests,” says Wilfred, who hosted fly-in adventures from
Cape to Cairo, to Botswana and all across southern Africa.
“My aircraft is parked on the landing strip down the hill, ready
to take guests on scenic flights, day-trips and fly-in safaris to
anywhere in the country."
The villas are positioned to make you feel as if you are alone
on the planet. From anywhere inside the villa you have a
view – even from the shower. Each villa is decorated to reflect
a different theme with stunning images and elegant design
features. A ceramic fireplace, soft luxurious linen, quilts and
throws, special details and personal touches, such as a
refreshingly quirky wildflower on the pillow and an espresso
machine in the lounge, are carefully planned to make you feel
like the special guest you are.
The Slaneys’ experience with hosting personal safaris all
over southern Africa is manifested to the smallest detail in
Otjimbondona. TNN
www.otjimbondona.com
Anita Slaney +264 81 243 5478
Wilfried Slaney +264 81 127 4358
info @otjimbondona.com
anita@profilesafaris.com
47
paul van schalkwyk
Chasing rain...
48
Photographic feature
I have seen vistas opening up beneath my airplane’s
wings, a valuable and treasured experience which,
in photographing, I hope to communicate the need for
appreciation and protection.
Paul van Schalkwyk, October 2013
49
Dust rises as rain disrupts the desert surface
Rain sweeping over the desert
50
Photographic
feature
A raincloud makes its way over Etosha Pan
A dramatic pillar of rain as a storm cloud breaks over the landscape
51
Paul van Schalkwyk tried to capture the extraordinary or unexpected. Often it can be found
right there in front of everyone’s eyes, hidden behind the camouflage of the ordinary. It
requires the searching eye of the photographer to lift the veils and sometimes work through
many layers of deception to discover or expose a new essence or image unexpected.
"Through my work I am bringing to an audience the opportunity to view and enjoy with me
the stunning splendour of desert rains and its profound effect on our world."
These images by Paul van Schalkwyk, depict the transformation of the desert landscape
caused by rain – water, moisture, mist and reflections.
In his words:
"In my quest to follow the erratic and often unpredictable path of rainstorms over the desert
I am trying to capture something the 'normal' eye does not have the capacity or privilege
to behold. Apart from the obvious aesthetics I am also trying to record something which
is really unexpected or out of the ordinary. Rain in the desert is not common, it is rather
unique. The desert rains usually sweep in within a few hours, then let go and disappear as
quickly as they came, leaving their direct effects to exist as momentary evidences. Being
able to fly enables me to follow or intercept the elusive desert rainstorms when they appear
in real time. By doing this I am observing and capturing phenomena, which are not readily
accessible to everyone. That is just one aspect that makes my photographs unique." TNN
It is not merely a photograph. It is a thriller
of nature in full force, condensed into an
instant. It is evidence of all existence from
beginning to end, in an instant.
52
Sueda Fountain, in Etosha National Park, alive with water
Water gathers between the dunes at Sossusvlei after a good rainy season
53
tnn goes camping with
CYMOT
Text Marita van Rooyen Photographs Elzanne Erasmus
Tent pegging in and around the city
T
he great expanse of this land will already be obvious upon touchdown
at Hosea Kutako International Airport. It is here – most likely on the long
walk to the terminal building – that you’ll find yourself wondering if you’ve
accidently been dropped in the middle of a lost and alien setting. (Word of
advice: keep calm and get used to the feeling). Even if you are a self-driver on
a momentous journey through Namibia, Africa, or the world, it will be, without
doubt, one of your very first cross-border conversation starters.
Namibia’s space is a feature that puts this country on the world’s-most-amazingplaces-to-see-before-you-die list, and for very good reason.
Silent sensations
There are very few places on this planet that still offer the luxury of crisp,
clean air, supplied straight from a plethora of wildly growing oxygen producers.
Similarly, there are just as few spots where wildlife still roam free and co-exist,
undisturbed, with their human counterparts. This very exclusive state of affairs is
mainly due to the fact that there is space for all of God’s creatures, including you
and your extended family – plus your entire camping shebang.
Camping is without doubt one of the best ways to explore this unique and diverse
selection of wide vistas and picture-pretty panoramas that 13 different ethnic
groups call home. Not only does it bring you in direct contact with the local
people, their cultures, traditions and back doors (aka natural surroundings), but it
also gives you the chance to enjoy the rare sensation of silence.
Do it with a tent
Admittedly, camping is not everyone’s mug of campfire brew, but in a country
like Namibia, you’d almost miss the whole point if you don’t spend at least one
night zipped-up in canvas under Namibian stars. There is very little that can
compare to the feeling of being awakened by the first cry of the guinea fowl,
unzipping your tent to pink-tinged skies, and lazily stepping out into pristine
early-morning nature.
For nervous novices on their first camping safari, it is recommended to first test
the ground on one of the sites in or around the capital city. Not only is it a good
opportunity to find out whether you have all your tent pegs packed (and if not,
still have the luxury to be saved by CYMOT), it also gives you time to slowly
acclimatise and adjust to the great outdoors.
What’s more, camping in close proximity to the city will be a soft entrance into the
real bush adventure that awaits. Most of the ‘city’ sites offer luxuries similar to the
more formal accommodation options located throughout the country. Facilities
usually include a restaurant – with proper home-cooked meals, bar, curio shop,
hot running water, flush toilets, power points and, in most cases, access to a
swimming pool.
54
1
TNN goes camping
The vastness of space in Namibia is seriously hard to
ignore. Stretching as far as the eye can see, horizon
greets horizon, whether comprising mountain,
grassland, rocky outcrop or sandy plains.
2
55
3
4
5
Top Ten Camping spots:
IN and around windhoek
Endless space, endless options
There are almost as many campsite options as there is space.
Close to the airport, Afrika Farm Ondekaremba hosts campers
under lush acacia trees. An added attraction is a stargazing
telescope with which to admire one of the darkest skies on
the planet – from the stoep of a historical 115-year-old farm
house. A bit farther down the highway, Trans Kalahari Inn
provides grassy lawns for extra padding, plus proper spots for
the evening fire. In the midst of civilisation, on the outskirts of
the township and bordering the Goreangab Dam, Penduka is
excellent place to become acquainted with aspects of Namibian
life. Here women empower themselves through needlework
and beadwork projects. It is the starting point for the one and
only guided cycle tour through the Kasi. An alternative in-thecity option is Urban Camp, where you can lounge about in
hammocks in the lapa while savouring a game-drive burger (a
game and crocodile patty). And if burgers are not your thing,
take the very short ”hiking trail” to Namibia’s most famous
restaurant, Joe’s Beerhouse, or try some pizza across the road
at Klein Windhoek Guest House.
Located a bit further out of the city, San Karros Daan Viljoen
boasts a good selection of animal and bird species. At
Elisenheim there’s horse riding. Friedenau Dam gives the option
56
(All located within 50km of the city)
1.
Afrika Farm Ondekaremba
2.
Düsternbrook Guest Farm
3.
Elisenheim Guest Farm
4.
Friedenau Dam
5.
Melrose Game Farm
6.Monteiro
7.Penduka
8.
San Karros @ Daan Viljoen
9.
Trans Kalahari Inn
10.
Urban Camp
of fresh-water swimming, boating and wetting those fishing
lines. Düsternbrook is another good choice, with a range of
wildlife activities, including a mini Okavango experience with
hippos, and a cheetah and leopard drive.
As is the case all over the country, every camping spot has its
charm and it really just depends on what kind of tent pitching, or
rooftop popping experience you’re looking for.
Point remains: it won’t take long until you start feeling
comfortable with the abundance of breathing space and
reconnect with your natural rhythm. And now that you’ve tasted
silence and freedom, and are sure about having all your tent
pegs in tow, the true Namibian adventure beckons.
6
12
7
13
8
Don’t Forget!
9
10
14
11
So what are you waiting for? Autumn is camping season! (Of
course in Namibia, so are winter, spring, and summer, but we’ll
leave those for upcoming editions). TNN
essentials:
14 camping
time to gear up!
1.
Greensport two-man canvas tent
2.
Malamoo 3 second Pop-up tent
3.
Coleman Chest Cooler with wheels
4.
Greensport Directors Chair with side table
5.Groundsheet
6.
LaPlaya Traveller Mug
7.
Stanley Flask
8.
Field Kettle
9.
Dishwashing table and sink
10.
Braai Grill
11. Cooking Pot (potjie)
12.
Greensport Bedroll
13.
Greensport "Trekker" Sleeping Bag
14.
GI xlarge stretcher
Be sure to tick these items off your CYMOT checklist before departing on
your next Namibian camping adventure:
Camera and accessories
Canteen/Water Bottle
Cash/credit cards/traveller’s cheques
Driver’s license
Emergency Phone Numbers
First Aid Kit
Maps/GPS
Mosquito Protection
Passport
Medication
Sun Protection
Jerry Can with diesel/petrol
Mosquito Net
Tool Kit
Car Spares (jack, compressor, tow rope)
Appropriate clothing (hat, hiking boots, warm clothes)
Toiletries
Towel
Matches
All available at
HEAD OFFICE & WAREHOUSE
15 Newcastle Street PO Box 726 Windhoek
Tel: (+264 61) 295 6000
info@cymot.com
www.cymot.com
57
Autumn Weather
at a glance
Compiled Annabelle Venter Photograph Paul van Schalkwyk
Have you planned a trip to Namibia in our autumn months? If not, maybe
it’s not too late to do so this year! It’s well known that this is a special time to
visit as the weather is becoming cooler and the country is beautifully green (if
the precious rains have fallen). There’s a sense of renewal, and the inhabitants,
both two- and four-footed, are set up for another year in our semi-arid land.
58
WEATHER IN Autumn
Etosha is simply stunning in autumn, with young
antelope born during the rains dotting the plains,
leading to some great predator action. You might
even find breeding flamingos on the pan in a
good rain year. Summer visitor birds are getting
ready to leave southern Africa by the first week
in April. By the end of autumn, the elephants
that have migrated to follow the summer rains in
Angola start returning to the park.
Up north-east in the Zambezi region, lots of
rain falls well into April. Standing water makes
secondary roads waterlogged and gives rise to
the possibility of contracting malaria. But the risk
is worth it for the sheer magic you’ll find – green
savannahs, sparkling summer birds, and leaves
on the otherwise bare trees.
Down south you could be treated to rolling
swathes of grasslands that stretch out to the
horizon and again a sense of relaxation and
wellbeing pervades for now.
So what are you waiting for? Grab your camera
and mosquito repellent and jump on a plane!
Max/min
temperatures (celsius)
Average Namibian
rainfalls
March
April
May
Windhoek
27/15
26/13
23/9
Swakopmund
23/15
24/13
Zambezi
31/18
30/15
March
April
May
Windhoek
81 mm
38 mm
6 mm
23/11
North-Eastern
96 mm
37 mm
2 mm
29/10
Coastal
8 mm
2 mm
2 mm
Sunrise & Sunset
Windhoek
Remember the time changes on 5 April!
Sunrise
Sunset
21 March
06h55
19h01
21 April
06h06
17h33
21 May
06h19
17h16
5 March
• Do remember to consult your doctor
before leaving home, to find out what the
best anti-malarial prophylaxis is for you. This
is PRIME MALARIA time, especially north of
Windhoek, and travelling in these areas is
HIGH RISK at this time of the year.
• Malaria is still the number-one killer disease in
Africa and the risk should not be taken lightly.
Moon Phases
Full Moon
Autumn HEALTH
HAZARD
New Moon
Micro Moon
Autumn Equinox
20 March
5 March at 20h06
21 March at 00h45
A micromoon occurs when the
moon is farthest from the earth
Equinox means the day and night
are of equal length
4 April
18 April
4 May
18 May
general Autumn SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
• Because it’s still raining into April, rivers that appear to be dry could flood, so don’t camp in a dry riverbed.
• Be careful about driving across flowing rivers – wade in first if you can and if possible don’t go it alone!
• Keep an eye on the lightning and if it’s really close, take shelter in your vehicle or accommodation.
*AUTUMN TIME:
In Namibia we employ daylight saving during the summer. So on 5 April this year we’ll turn our clocks
BACK 1 HOUR which brings us to winter time. This means we’ll have more light in the morning as the
days get shorter, making it slightly easier to get up on a cold winter’s morning!
Namibia’s time zone during our winter is therefore GMT+1.
59
the
rock climber
diaries
Compiled Elzanne Erasmus
Photographs C.J. van der Westhuizen
Few people are aware of the many rock-climbing challenges
Namibia has to offer. As hikers and climbers discover ever more
areas, the sport is becoming increasingly popular, both with locals
and with visitors from abroad.
adventure
T
he Spitzkoppe, at 1,728 metres, was first ascended in
1946. Since then the range has attracted hundreds
of climbers every year. As one of Namibia's most
recognisable landmarks, and often referred to by climbers as
the Matterhorn of Africa, the Spitzkoppe rises above the dusty
pre-Namib plains of southern Damaraland as if out of a mirage.
a very sought-after climb that is well bolted. The South West
Wall is home to many popular routes such as Watersports
(20), the South West Wall Route (24), INXS (24) and Herero
Arch (26). Along the highest peak of the Pondok Mountains
– Pondok Spitz – you'll find the route To Bolt or Not To
Bolt (18), a five-star climb that's not excessively difficult.
Sugarloaf Mountain also has great bolted routes.
Considered a climber’s paradise, the Spitzkoppe and
surrounding areas – including the Pondok (or Pontok)
Mountains (because they resemble the rounded Damara
huts called pondoks) – boast over 30 natural and 30 sport
climbs. Sport climbing entails routes that are secured with
bolts, whereas natural climbing involves unsecured climbing
techniques or "free climbing".
Although the Spitzkoppe surroundings are considered to be
the most popular climbing destination in Namibia, there are
many other areas for climbers, including Omandumba in the
Erongo Mountains, Aussenkehr on the southern border of
Namibia and the Midgard country estate, 90 km north-east
of Windhoek.
In Namibia, climbing routes are rated in accordance with
the Ewbank system as measured in technical difficulty,
exposure to the climber, length, quality of rock, protection
and other smaller components: the higher the rating, the
more difficult the route. Popular climbs in the Spitzkoppe
surrounds include the route Goldfinger (21) on Rhino Horn,
Reading about height statistics and the techniques used
to grade routes does not unveil the ins and outs of rock
climbing, though. As with many adventure sports, it is the
passion of the adventurers that drives their love of the sport,
and makes them strive to reach new heights, in this case
quite literally. So maybe it is best if you hear from them.
Getting hooked
2013 was a life-changing year. It took 37 years for me to find something that I did not even know I was
looking for. At a coffee bar an old school friend asked me if I would like to go climbing with them that
weekend and as I have always loved climbing up mountains to enjoy great views, I said: “Yes!” To my
surprise they had a rope, special shoes and lots of other interesting things with them. That was the day
I had my first go on a sports climbing route on the Schattenwand at Omandumbe Erongo Mountains.
I was hooked straight away, obtained my own gear and joined the climbing community to go friction
climbing at Namibia’s favourite climbing site, the Spitzkoppe. After that I used every chance I could get
to go climbing, from bouldering at Avis to the climbing areas close by Windhoek. Unfortunately, in the
last six months I was not able to go climbing as the closest climbing area is 840 km away from where I
work now. As my soul needs to be at one with the climbing rocks of Namibia I am now looking forward to
get a job closer to those steep slopes that leave my heart beating. I have found that life can be so much
more if you’re looking down at it from a mountainside, and I thank the people who introduced me to this
lifestyle every day. I can't wait to go climbing with these incredible people in one of Namibia’s great
spots again.
Roland Graff
– Sven
62
A guidebook entitled Spitzkoppe and Pontoks Namibia by
Eckhardt Haber contains all the route information of the area. To date,
the highest peak of the Spitzkoppe has been reached by climbers
more than 600 times. Members of Namibia’s rock-climbing community
form part of the Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA), which has a
Namibian charter. The club facilitates and engages in mountaineering,
climbing of all types including boulder climbing, hiking, international
expeditions, mountain search and rescue, training, the conservation of
mountain areas, and the procurement of access for mountaineering.
adventure
The Great Arch
The alarm clock went off... It's 4:30. A little bit more sleep
would have been nice, but it was time to start our journey.
A quick cup of coffee, a small piece of bread, and Roland
and I were on our way. For me there were mixed emotions,
a dream coming true. But do I have what it takes? I never
thought this day would dawn so quickly.
After one hour of scrambling with head lamps, our timing
was perfect, with just enough sunlight to be able to start our
climbing ascent. Gearing up with a couple of cams I took on
the first pitch. Two steps and I could feel that this one was
going to be a challenge. The first move is over a crumbling
block and there is nothing for your feet. The rest was fair with
a runout towards the end.
I think the second pitch was probably the most difficult. It was a very slippery off-width crack with the crux
move right at the end. Considering the rope drag, Roland
climbed very well.
Next it was my turn again. On the third pitch the crack continues for a couple of meters and is then swallowed by the
huge face of the South West Wall. And, as we all say, happiness is a bolt. It was a bit of a mental adjustment switching
from crack climbing to face climbing.
In a big pocket, Roland was preparing for the fourth pitch.
This one really looked hard. Two aided moves on an
overhang granite face is no easy task. This one took a lot out
of me, I must admit.
On pitch five, the bolts were quite close and it was my turn
again. Halfway into the pitch Roland said: “I think this one is
a 23”. All I could say was: “Thanks for telling me now!” His
response: “I know you can do it”. Does that sound familiar?
Then we were standing at the beginning of the great arch,
the Herero Arch. Roland took the lead again. The first bolt
was quite far away. Somehow this arch helps you when it
feels like there is nothing to hold on to, even if you can just
support your back against it.
It was my turn again, the second pitch on the arch, pitch
seven. We reached the end of the pitch at twelve o' clock.
There was shade in the arch but the rays of the sun lit up the
whole South West Wall as they hit the rock.
We had to decide whether we were going to continue into the
sun and heat, or call it a day. After Roland went out onto the
traverse pitch to test the heat of the sun, we decided to call
it quits.
I enjoyed every single moment of the climb. My climbing
shoes were pushed to their limit. Even the fact that we did
not summit was great because our climbing journey did not
become a climbing mission.
– Maarten
63
I've learned that everyone wants to
live on top of the mountain, but all the
happiness and growth occurs while
you're climbing it
- Andy Rooney
DID YOU KNOW
There are a few climbing areas within 20 km of Windhoek,
but these are usually on privately owned property where
the right of admission is reserved. The climbing company, Urban Friction, facilitates climbs in popular spots
throughout Namibia. No experience is needed to join
these climbing tours, and they are open to everybody,
from amateurs to professionals. MCSA Namibia hosts
regular outings to Spitzkoppe during winter. Dates for
scheduled climbs can be found on the website MCSA
Namibia: www.mcnam.org
adventure
The big question
To summit or not to summit is the real question. It’s been months of preparation and every manner of exercise to be able to
go up Pontok Spitze. By the first of May we were all at the Spitzkoppe for some amazing climbing. At that point there were
four climbers, Evan and I, and Maarten and Daniel as a team to ”to bolt or not to bolt”. The weather was still too hot and we
decided to wait until it was cooler with some more shade. So it was… “Not to summit”. After all, it was Daniel’s very first
time at Spitzkoppe, and we needed to do more training and gain some more experience. We therefore decided to rather go
up Rhino Horn, and what an amazing expedition that was! And a real windy one as well! Evan and I managed a few other
long routes too, and Maarten and Daniel also had some great climbs. They kept on with their training for the whole month at
Falkenstein. June came and another climbing weekend was organised, and so the four of us decided to summit. Even though
Evan and I did not have adequate time to train physically, mentally we were set up for a whole day’s climb. On arrival that
Friday we did two quick warm-up climbs and on Saturday, at 5 a.m., the four of us started the route with a long and difficult
hike. After a beautiful sunrise we were ascending the first tricky pitches. Maarten and Daniel were ahead while we followed,
all moving at a good pace, with eight pitches before reaching the summit. In the meantime, not far from the Spitzkoppe,
Swakopmund had been blowing away. The weather conditions became quite unpleasant and with every pitch the ever-nagging question returned: to summit, or not to summit? Even though the wind was punishing us on that big wall and draining
our energy, we still kept moving. Evan asked Maarten how the ‘18’ felt (pitch five) and his reply was, “Like Rhino Horn”, but
I can only guess that it was the wind that reminded him of Rhino Horn at that level. We still had enough time after Evan did a
great ascent up pitch five, with Maarten and Daniel ahead. By the end of the sixth pitch, the off-width route was a real energy
breaker and we couldn't move any farther. Maarten got up that crack of a chimney. What an awesome climb!
Elzanne Erasmus
– Cornel Camping at the Spitzkoppe
There are few experiences as amazing as camping at the
Spitzkoppe. The unbelievable clarity of the Namibian night
sky and the absolute silence will leave you wishing the sun
wouldn’t come up until noon.
For a truly special experience, plan your next camping trip
there to correlate with the full moon and get a sense of how
Neil Armstrong felt.
Spitzkoppe Rest Camp is a community-based tourism
initiative. The 31 campsites, nestled into their own private
nooks, can accommodate a maximum of eight persons each.
The campsites have dry toilets only, but hot showers are
available at reception. Members of the local community come
by the campsites in a donkey cart each day to
remove rubbish. TNN
65
the curious case of the
dik-dik drive
Sean McCulloch
Text Elzanne Erasmus
Karin Malherbe
I was brimming with anticipation as I drove north
from Windhoek with a group of close friends for a visit
to Etosha National Park recently. I had never visited
the park in the summer before, never seen it green
and blooming and wet. I’d never been there when the
waterholes were superfluous and when you had doubt
in your mind whether the shimmer on the pan was the
usual mirage or actual water.
T
his time round I was extremely happy to find that it wasn’t
the bending of the sun’s rays bamboozling my eyes, but
rather the accumulation of the November rainfall. I had
visited the park during the winter high season in June, and was
excited to experience a new side of this old favourite.
My three companions and I decided that it was high time
we explored some of the less mainstream routes available
in the park. It’s almost too easy on your way in from Von
Lindequist Gate to take the first turn-off to your left and start
your next spectacular Etosha trip on Dik-dik Drive. Home
to one of Africa’s smallest antelope, the drive is more than
willing to appease each and every traveller in search of this
small and gentle creature. The Damara dik-dik is Namibia’s
smallest antelope species. They frequent the eastern karst
66
woodlands and love pitter-pattering around the tamboti
woodlands near Namutoni. On our first trip down Dik-dik
Drive we spotted our first dik-dik no more than 40 metres
in. Trying to hide from the fierce Namibian summer sun,
the little ram stayed in the shade of the leaves as he lazily
trotted a bit farther into the underbrush, glancing back at
us once or twice before disappearing from sight. Dik-dik
number two followed soon afterwards.
As our first trip down the drive had been so successful we
decided to continue exploring some other less-travelled routes
around Namutoni. We set off north from Namutoni on the drive
around Fischer’s Pan, which none of us had ever explored. The
pan, named after Lieutenant Adolf Fischer who was stationed
at Namutoni in the 1880s, is home to a large variety of water
EXPLORE ETOSHA
Damara dik-dik (Madoqua damarensis):
• They are the smallest antelope in Namibia.
• They occur in eastern karst woodlands, especially
in the tamboti woodlands east of Namutoni.
• They form monogamous pairs.
• The male has tiny horns on either side of a reddish
tuft of hair on top of its head.
birds such as greater and lesser flamingos, Egyptian geese,
African spoonbills and white pelicans during the rainy
season. Regular plains game and giraffe also abound. We
were even treated to a rare Etosha sighting of eland on
the northern edge of the pan. The route around the pan
is approximately 30 km long. It would be advisable for
future would-be Fischer’s Pan adventurers to note that the
road strays far away from anything resembling a bathroom
for quite a while. We learned this the hard way as the
morning’s coffees and the cooldrinks we had stocked-up
on at Namutoni led to, what will forever be known as The
Fischer’s Pan Bathroom Debacle of December 2014.
As we were on our way out of the park that day we could
not resist one final trip down our new favourite road. We had
almost finished the route and had been treated to giraffes
drinking at the Klein Namutoni waterhole, a natural spring
frequented by plains game such as impala and zebra, when
we spotted dik-diks number three and four. Damara dik-diks
form monogamous pairs and the couple were all too happy
lying by the side of the road after a tiring day (probably doing
pretty much nothing) to be in any way disturbed by our
presence.
Their relaxed and timid natures made
for extremely enjoyable photographic
opportunities as they lay there peering up
at us from under long, elegant lashes.
The little guy and girl leisurely carried on nibbling at branches,
having a much-needed siesta in the shade while we snapped
on from two metres away.
It is not often that you can recommend a certain area of a
national park to other travellers with a guaranteed spotting
of a specific animal, but on this visit to Etosha I was glad to
be proven wrong. We returned to the park the next day and
went down the drive twice more, both times spotting the little
antelopes peeping out between the low bush branches. With
a success rate of four for four, I can now say with confidence
that a Damara dik-dik will be found on Dik-Dik Drive if you
only bother to glance downward and look for it. TNN
Popular Namutoni area waterholes:
Elzanne Erasmus
• Springbokfontein: spot the springbok “pronk”.
• Okerfontein: keep your eyes peeled for bat-eared
foxes and African wild cats.
• Kalkheuwel: watch elephants have a shower that
leaves them gray-white.
• Chudop: spot the lions often resting under trees near
the water.
• Namutoni: enjoy the floodlit waterhole at night if
you’re staying at Namutoni camp.
• Tsumcor: look out for caracal, aardwolf and honey
badgers during the late afternoon.
Desert fairy trails
Text and Photographs Helge Denker
eleven theories:
The circles are caused by
1.
toxins from Euphorbia plants
2.
competition for water and nutrients among grasses
3.
termite activity
4.
toxins from old termite nests
5.
UFOs
6.
zebra dust bathing
7.
seepage of harmful gases or toxic compounds
8.
fungi or bacteria
9.
radioactivity
10.
magnetism or other energy fields
11.
continental plate tectonics.
68
fairy circles
The fairy circles of the Namib – those bizarre patches of circular bare ground
dotting desert grasslands – have probably elicited wider speculation than any
other natural phenomenon in Namibia. Ranging from the highly esoteric
to the downright mundane, from the deeply scientific to the purely fanciful,
theories and assumptions abound. While some believe that they have found
conclusive answers, the world’s first Fairy Circle Symposium showed that even
the experts can’t agree – at least not yet.
69
T
wenty-eight fairy circle enthusiasts, most of them distinguished scientists with published work on fairy circle dynamics, came
together at Wolwedans on the NamibRand Nature Reserve in the last days of February to share and discuss research results
and hypotheses. Hypotheses because, even though fairy circles have received focussed scientific attention since the 1970s, no
results put forward to date conclusively prove the cause of the phenomenon.
Namibia offers many natural wonders. Spectacular landscapes and stunning geology. Fascinating climatic conditions and unique
ecological processes. Strange plants and enigmatic animals. Even some of the world’s largest bacteria. Within this illustrious
assortment of oddities and wonders, fairy circles are amongst the most mysterious. They are obvious for all to see, yet cannot
be easily explained. They occur in some of the most picturesque parts of Namibia and dominate entire landscapes, yet their
distribution is patchy. There are distinct
fairy circle "hotspots" in the NamibRand
and Dieprivier areas of the southern
Namib, in the vicinity of Namibia’s highest
mountain, the Brandberg, and in several
locations in Kaoko in the far north-west. In
other areas where one might expect them,
they are curiously absent.
Fairy circles are fascinating to look at. From
the air, they can be seen blanketing entire
grasslands in their thousands. At ground
level, mysterious details become apparent.
They are an enigma of the natural world.
Scientists from around the globe have
been studying them for over forty years.
A wide range of experiments has been
conducted, many using highly sophisticated
technology. Research ranges from extensive
mathematical modelling to explain the
large-scale patterns that are created by
70
fairy circles
Eleven facts:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
Fairy circles are most common along the edge of the Namib Desert where the average annual rainfall is around
100 millimetres.
The circles are most abundant in Stipagrostis grasslands on sandy ground.
Something kills all grass in the circles and inhibits new growth.
Individual circles have a cycle of formation, decline and disappearance.
Some circles remain unchanged for decades; others come and go within a few years.
The sand inside the circles is significantly moister than the surrounding sand.
Various natural gases have been shown to occur in higher concentrations inside the circles.
A fringe of taller grass often grows along the edge of the circles.
In some areas, thousands of circles cover entire landscapes.
The circles have been studied by dozens of scientists from different countries for more than 40 years.
No research carried out to date has conclusively identified one single cause for fairy circle formation.
the circles, to the physical search for any organisms or
poisons that might be causing the grass to die and the
circles to form. An incredible wealth of data has been
amassed. And yet the full complexity of a seemingly
simple patch of bare sand remains unexplained.
Only a handful of causes are still being seriously
discussed and explored – that living organisms (insects,
fungi, bacteria) are killing the grass; that poisonous
compounds (natural gases, toxins) are responsible; or
that competition for water and nutrients (often called
self-organisation) is creating the circles. No evidence
has yet proven incontrovertible.
The most commonly postulated cause – termites
– has been explored in many variations. The most
recent version of the general hypothesis, published
in 2013, is based on a wealth of data collected over
many years from different areas. The theory suggests
that a particular termite species, the sand termite
(Psammotermes allocerus), creates a favourable local
ecosystem for its colony by actively clearing a circular
area of all grass to create a water reservoir. Moisture
from sporadic rains is stored in the soil and, because it
is not consumed by plants, creates a more hospitable
microclimate for the termites than the surrounding
desert. In effect, it is one of many examples of
adaptation to extreme environments by animals and
plants. Yet this postulate, like so many others, has
been emphatically refuted by a number of fairy circle
71
Twenty-eight experts and enthusiasts who were at the first ever Fairy Circle Symposium:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
Dr Carl Albrecht (South Africa)
Dr Nichole Barger (USA)
Dr Siegie Bauermeister (South Africa)
Dr Golan Bel (Israel)
Albi Brückner (Namibia)
Stephan Brückner (Namibia)
Professor Michael Cramer (South Africa)
Dr Stephan Getzin (Germany)
Felicitas Gunther (Germany)
Quintin Hartung (Namibia)
Vanessa Hartung (Namibia)
Sebastian Hanss (Germany)
Eric Hesemans (Namibia)
Dr Willem Jankowitz (Namibia)
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
23.
24.
25.
26.
27.
28.
Dr Norbert Juergens (Germany)
Dr Eugene Moll (South Africa)
Dr Yvette Naudé (South Africa)
Nils Odendaal (Namibia)
Cristián Fernández Oto (Belgium/Chilé)
David Peddie (South Africa)
Dr Egmont Rohwer (South Africa)
Danica Shaw (Namibia)
Sandy Todd (South Africa)
Dr Walter Tschinkel (USA)
Victoria Tschinkel (USA)
Dr Noël van Rooyen (South Africa)
Professor Gretel van Rooyen (South Africa)
Dr Hezi Yizahaq (Israel)
researchers from different disciplines. The Fairy
Circle Symposium thus came at an opportune time.
Over the years, the idea of getting together as many
as possible of the scientists who have studied
fairy circles had been repeatedly suggested. The
NamibRand Nature Reserve, a private reserve
covering over two hundred thousand hectares of
prime fairy circle landscape and one of the most
breathtaking parts of our country, has been the
study area of much of the fairy circle research
carried out to date. With a variety of great
accommodation options and a dedicated research
centre, NamibRand provides ideal conditions
for research – and for a symposium. The reserve
management, in partnership with the management
of the main tourism concessionaire, Wolwedans,
took the initiative, contacted all the people and
organised the symposium.
To their credit, most of the invited fairy circle
scientists came – knowing that their work was going
to receive intense scrutiny from critical peers. Only
a few researchers with published work related to
fairy circles were unable to make it. The first day of
presentations and discussions was a mind-boggling
barrage of information on many different aspects of the
phenomenon, followed by half a day of fascinating field
visits and research demonstrations. Throughout, there
were plenty of passionate discussions, as well as quiet,
informal exchanges over good food and drink.
Cautionary wisdoms such as "correlation is not
causation" put the difficulty of pinning down
the definitive cause of fairy circles into context.
Importantly, to stand any chance of being
widely accepted, a theory has to explain and
physically prove all – and not just some – of the
characteristics of fairy circles. It appears that a
complex chain of interconnected factors may be
at work here and the symposium was excellent in
sharing research and postulates around a great
variety of elements, by bringing people face to face.
While plenty of disagreement remains, scientists
were already envisioning joint experiments and
are looking forward to closer collaboration. The
symposium was seen as a historic event.
It was a great event for Namibia, for science and
for the wonders and complexities of the natural
world. The stunning landscapes of the NamibRand
Nature Reserve and the style and comfort of the
Wolwedans Camps provided the perfect ambience.
On NamibRand, you can even adopt a fairy circle to
help fund and further the cause of both science and
conservation. And once you have spent some time
out there, savouring that enchanting mix of dunes,
plains and mountains, of colours, desert skies and
vastness, it’s easy to imagine that the forces that
shape this wonderland include the odd sprinkling of
inexplicable magic. TNN
Three great ways to see fairy circles:
1. From the ground: NamibRand Tourism; www.namibrand.org/Tourism.htm | www.wolwedans.com
2. From a hot-air balloon: Namib Sky Balloon Safaris; www.namibsky.com
3. From a small plane: Skeleton Coast Fly-In Safaris; www.skeletoncoastsafaris.com
Or find them online at www.namibrand.org | www.fairycircles.com
73
Scenic air
A new direction for local aviation
Text Marita van Rooyen
Photographs Mike Böttger
F
lying, to me, is spiritual healing.” It was this sensation, paired
with 'the sense of absolute freedom and the opportunity
to experience a bird’s-eye view of our beautiful country'
that made Mike Böttger hang up his robes as a lawyer and make
his life-long passion for flying his prime business, joining up with
Christa van Wyk, who has been in the aviation game in Namibia for
over 20 years.
As managing director of Scenic Air, Mike admits that he has been
interested in flying from the word go. What sets him apart from
other flying fanatics, however, is that he took the more serious
route to obtain his wings. With a Master’s in Aviation Law he knows
how important safety management and quality insurance are in
the aviation industry. “My days as a lawyer provided the perfect
backbone for managing a company built around charter flights and
sky shuttle services.”
Mike takes his business seriously. In the process of replacing the
company’s older fleet with the latest, high-tech models, he recently
acquired the best bush aircraft currently gracing the skies: the
Quest Kodiak 100. Initially designed for missionaries who needed
to access hard-to-get-to places with short landing strips, it is no
secret that this model is ideal for Namibian conditions. With landing
strips literally everywhere, whether in towns, near lodges, or on
farms, the Kodiak has no problem landing wherever the wind takes
it. And make no mistake, this 10-seater aircraft is not your everyday
bush explorer. It boasts state-of-the-art avionics, including terrain
awareness, Traffic Collision Avoidance System (TCAS) radar
and a glass cockpit, and is even air-conditioned. Underlying the
company’s commitment to tourism and showcasing the region’s
74
SCENIC AIR
"Flying, to me, is spiritual healing.” It was this sensation,
paired with “the sense of absolute freedom and the
opportunity to experience a bird ’s-eye view of our beautiful
country” that made Mike Böttger hang up his robes as lawyer
and make his life-long passion
for flying his prime business.
prime, the second Kodiak is on its way, and a newly acquired
14-seater Cessna 208B Grand Caravan also forms part of the new
fleet. “Scenic Air is motivated to provide a top-notch service for all
safari guests, one that is extremely reliable and safe. We fly scenic
routes to various destinations, because the journey to the lodge is
an inevitable part of the adventure!” he enthused.
As part of ensuring an A-grade experience, Scenic Air is in the
process of introducing an automated narrative to enhance the
flying experience. With automated storyboards, information is
conveyed to passengers as they pass over noteworthy landmarks.
As Mike explains, “flying – especially in a breathtaking place like
Namibia – is not only about the visual impact, but it should also
highlight the stories that make the country so intriguing.” Mike’s
main mission is to let his love for flying, tourism, conservation and
his country rub off on his passengers.
“Namibia is now on everyone’s radar, which gives us the perfect
opportunity to raise the level of service, and this includes the
aviation industry. The quality of aircraft and the crew plays a very
important role. Pilots should be more than that, they should have a
broad knowledge of the terrain they are flying over, being
guides that sell the country by word of mouth, and so cultivate
repeat visitors.”
Flying is not only safer than driving, but it saves precious time
and provides an interesting perspective on the country’s diverse
landscapes. With good weather, ample landing strips and long
travelling distances that make flying the ideal travelling option, the
country is “flying paradise”.
But, flying in Namibia can also be a demanding task, as it is
hot, high above sea level and has challenging landing strips.
This is why safety, reliability, and efficiency are some of Scenic
Air’s core values. Furthermore, meticulous maintenance and risk
management are top priority. Pilots go through a serious vetting
stage where they are – among other tests and trials – required
to do a technical exam, pass a validation check ride with a DCA
designated examiner and fly at least 50 hours with a senior captain
prior to going on-line, and subject themselves to a comprehensive
psychometric evaluation. “Scenic Air aims to be the initial training
ground for tomorrow’s airline captain.”
Scenic Air has offices in Swakopmund and Windhoek, and offers
fly-in services all over southern Africa. With a vibrant, cosmopolitan
mix of pilots and staff from all walks of life, Scenic Air is a happy
company with happy clients, all ably coordinated by Christa van
Wyk. So sit back, relax, and breathe in the spectacular space. TNN
CONTACT:
Windhoek Office:
Tel:
+264 61 249 268
Email: windhoek@scenic-air.com
Swakopmund Office:
Tel:
+264 64 403 575
Email: swakopmund@scenic-air.com
www.scenic-air.com
75
A tribute to The
wisdom and knowledge of
the Zambezi Region
Paul van Schalkwyk
Text Ron Swilling
It was a rainy day on the banks of the Kwando River in Eastern Caprivi
when I first had the privilege of catching a glimpse of Antje Otto’s life’s work.
Condensed into the information panels at the Namushasha Heritage Centre,
they crystallised more than thirty years of Antje’s research into the culture of
the Eastern Zambezi (former Caprivi) Region, its traditional crafts, musical
instruments, history and way of life.
O
ver the next year the information on the panels
would expand and grow into the book The People of
Namibia’s Eastern Zambezi Region (Eastern Caprivi):
A historical perspective as Antje dipped into her wealth of
knowledge gleaned over a lifetime of dedicated study. The
book was inspired and initiated by Mannfred Goldbeck of the
Gondwana Collection.
It all began in the mid-70s when, as an honours graduate
in Anthropology, Antje was employed as a technician in the
National Museum of Namibia. This started her "right on the
ground floor", something Antje is grateful for, as it gave her her
first taste of working with a collection – cleaning, cataloguing
and even fumigating individual items. The artefacts piqued
76
her interest and sent her scurrying to the library in search of
information about their usage and how they were made. She
quickly developed a love for these carefully crafted items.
There were few of the older pieces left in the collection. Those
collected in the late 1800s had been shipped to Germany
before the establishment of the museum, and most of the items
that were later housed in the Landesmuseum disappeared
during WWI. Hardly anything remained from the Zambezi
Region (then known as the Caprivi).
Antje’s first trip to the north in 1980 was a major undertaking.
The road was long and dusty and permits were required for
fieldwork undertaken beyond the Mururani Gate. The army,
however, ran regular flights from Grootfontein to Katima Mulilo.
Although the personnel initially refused to take Antje along, they
soon capitulated. She drove the museum truck to Grootfontein,
where she boarded the flight, and once in Katima, she joined
two local officials from the Information Services in the field. This
brought her into contact with many people who still practised
the old traditions taught to them by their parents and their
parents’ parents. She even met an old man whose father had
been present at some of David Livingstone’s sermons. Antje
found herself surrounded by a sea of knowledge where she had
access to a rich oral tradition. Without paper and computers,
the old people stored it all in their minds, passing it down to
their descendants. Antje relates how the time spent with them
"was a real gift".
The area was remote. Lion spoor was still regularly seen on
the roads, and the villages rarely had outside visitors. Antje
remembers that once, while in a village, she felt someone
playing with her hair. When she turned around, a little girl
jumped up and ran away. The people laughed and said: “Ah!
She has never seen a white person before.”
Her flight home was one she would never forget. The aircraft
was crammed with artefacts for the museum: wooden drums,
carvings, clay pots and chairs. More than that though, Antje
had begun to collect an immense amount of knowledge. She
returned to the north again and again, making six trips by
road in the 1980s, and several more for an exhibition on the
people of the Zambezi Region that has been on display at the
National Museum of Namibia since 2012. She remembers these
expeditions fondly, saying that she knew she would like to
give something back to the people at some point in her life, so
that the younger generations would be able to appreciate their
parents and grandparents, and the crafts and traditions of old.
Antje also became fascinated with the plants used to make the
different items. Her field notes, accumulated over the years, lay
in a drawer waiting for an opportune moment to be put to good
use. That moment came when she met Mannfred Goldbeck,
who asked her to assemble the information for the heritage
centre, which led to this useful book.
Described as an introduction to this lesser-known part of
Namibia, its people, history and heritage, the book is jampacked with interesting information on topics as diverse
as history, clay pots, musical instruments, social structure,
clothing, traditional healers – and a list of plants used in the
area, all meticulously recorded by Antje. An additional chapter
on baobabs was written by Heike Pander. TNN
Antje says modestly that The People of Namibia's Eastern Zambezi Region: A historical perspective is "a tribute to the wisdom and knowledge
of generations gone by" who faithfully pass this rich heritage on to successive generations.
77
Photo courtesy of: Paolo Schneider
Namibia. Wild at heart.
An untamed wilderness that will always leave you spoilt for choice.
Mother Nature is waiting for you.
NAMIBIA – Head office
Channel Life Building, 1st floor
Post Street Mall
Private Bag 13244, Windhoek
Tel: +264 61 2906 000
Fax: +264 61 254 848
Email: info@namibiatourism.com.na
GERMANY
Schillerstrasse 42 – 44, D – 60313
Frankfurt am Main,
Tel: +49 69 1337 360
Fax: +49 69 1337 3615
Email: info@namibia-tourism.com
www.namibia-tourism.com
SOUTH AFRICA
Cape Town
Ground floor, The Pinnacle
Burg Street, P O. Box 739
Tel: +27 21 4223 298
Fax: +27 21 422 5132
Email: namibia@saol.com

Namibia - BushKitchen

Transcription

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