CMT Router Table with Large Insert Practical suggestions for safe

CMT Router Table with Large Insert
Practical suggestions
for safe working on
CMT’s Industrio™ router table
Source by www.woodshopdemos.com/cmt
C.M.T. UTENSILI S.p.A.
Via della meccanica
61122 Pesaro - Fraz. chiusa di Ginestreto- Italy
Tel. #39 0721 48571
Fax. #39 0721 481021
e-mail info@cmtutensili.com
www.cmtutensili.com
Last week, I posted this picture with the announcement that
Beth and I would be starting a new project — an “Insert Plate
Garage.’
This is what started the idea some months ago. Marc Sommerfeld sent me a new product, the new Pocket-Pro Joinery
System developed by Marc and CMT (photo is from CMT's
website.) I have used it on a number of projects but simply
clamped the base to a worktable.
But this picture intrigued me. Since these insert plates are
so well made and fit so exactly, I asked myself the question:
"What other shop tasks could use this concept?"
I shared my thoughts with Beth. It didn't take long to look at
how we use the router table — I came up with a practical need
for 5 insert plates. And, if I need this many plates, I also need
a garage for them — one that would keep the tools safe and
sound.
Beth starts by measuring the tools that we will mount on insert
plates. You can see the CMT/Sommerfeld Raised Panel Set in
the center of the picture. I am planning the "garage" around
that product and the tasks of making raised panel doors. I
want to include the following insert plates:
1) large router with speed control for the large raised panel
bit; 2 and 3) 2 smaller routers for the rail and stile bits; 4)
the Porter Cable Portable Oscillating Spindle Sander (already
mounted at the right) and 5) the CMT/Sommerfeld Pocket-Pro
Joinery set, far right.
2
This Porter Cable plunge router model (PC 8529) is a recent
addition to their lineup and sports a 2hp motor and has variable speed and a soft start. In the back ground you can see
that I have one unit already mounted in the insert. It has the
same hole sizing as the PC690 which makes it easy to change
models.
This is the Porter Cable Portable Oscillating Spindle Sander
which I mounted during the week. I used 1/2” Finnform which
is absolutely great for this use.
I used a number of router “copying techniques” to make this
insert. I did photograph most of the steps, so here they are.
I have cut a piece of Finnform (see source below) on the table
saw using another insert to set the fence distances exactly to
the insert dimensions. Using an 80 tooth cabinet blade gave
me a very smooth edge.
I am trying to figure out where the sander would be located on the plate. Since the sander is long, I decided to place
the hole offset so that the unit will “fit.” The number “1” is at
the Porter Cable accessory that I am using to mark the hole
position. I could also use the base (“2”) which I have removed.
I thought I would be leaving the base off, but I see that it is an
integral part of the unit’s dust collection system and belongs
on.
I have used some double face tape to fix the base adapter to
the Finnform and am now drilling the holes that will hold the
router.
3
Well, I got wrapped up with what I was doing and did not
photograph some small tasks in between. What I did was use
the holes to attach the black adapter to the base and then
used the router with a pattern bit to follow the plastic adapter.
It took only a few minutes to make an exact copy of the hole.
I also used one of the other plates and the pattern bit to rout
the corners exactly.
I am holding the final product — it is perfect. But, I will
admit, the other plate on the bench is the earlier attempt. I
countersunk the holes on the wrong side — I don’t want you to
think that I don’t make mistakes.
Beth was admiring the “perfect” fit and then she tried to place
it in the top. It fit perfectly, but there is not enough room under
the top for the sander. I will either have to remount the sander
or remove the small cabinet inserts underneath the top.
This is what it looks like. I had built these storage areas to fit
the Hitachi M12V exactly. Since they are installed with pocket
hole screws, I should be able to remove them and trim them
down to allow the new equipment to fit.
Between the two of us, the measurements have been checked
and rechecked a number of times. We want the sides and
back to have grooves cut in them to the depth of 3/8”.
4
I want the insert plates to have only 1/8” play so that they
can slide in and out easily but no more. I do not want the
equipment to be able to fall out of the slots. To be certain of
our “math”, I have used a scrap piece to cut to the lengths. I
have also cut some grooves with the router set at exactly 3/8”
depth. Beth slides one of the plates in a groove and checks
the fit. It is fine.
I was going to use lock miter joints but opted instead to butt
the back into the sides and use the Pocket-Pro to give me a
number of screw locations. They will be from the back and
therefore not seen. Time to cut the panel.
I bought a fresh sheet of birch ply and have laid it out on my
work table. With the two sides and back all being the same
length, Beth starts by putting the Festool guide rail in position
for the crosscut.
She has set the saw’s plunge depth to be about 1/4” deeper
than the plywood. If you recall, the work table is made up of
a sheet of A/D plywood topped with a 1” thick piece of foam.
The extra depth of cut then only cuts into the foam. It is a
great system for handling these large panels. With the Festool
saw cutting exactly to the guide rail edge, it makes for extremely accurate cuts.
To setup the guide rail for the cutting of the sides, Beth uses
one of the “sample” side pieces for length and uses a 1/8”
brass spacer to set the guide and allow for the blade width.
5
She makes the cut. She makes all three cuts using this setup.
Beth is setting up the edge bander and will apply the veneer
edging to the front edges of the side pieces. Can you guess
why we do that now?
Here is part of the answer. Beth is clamping the three pieces
together . The arrow points to the boards that have iron-on
veneer. She is attaching a clamp guide that will position the
router for making the 3/8” deep dados. I am hoping that by
clamping the veneered edges like this, that veneer chip out
will be nil — I hope.
Beth has installed a 3/4” mortising bit. This bit is similar to a
straight bit except that the bottom of the cutters are straight
across. This gives a groove with a very flat bottom.
She has plunged the bit to just “kiss” the ply and then is
using a 3/8” brass spacer to set the plunge stop. The router’s
plunge scale is easy to use and is accurate, but I like to use
these spacers when I can.
6
Beth makes the groove in two passes plunging a bit at a time.
By the way, the Bessey K-body clamp is used to hold the three
pieces tightly together. She will move the guide rail clamp for
each of the grooves. The K-bodies assure her that there is no
board shifting when she repositions the guide rail.
Next week, we will have this finished and will try all the
tools in their slots. We will also add a French cleat on the back
so that we can hang the garage. And, we can start using it....
yeah!
While Beth was away, I worked on the grooving. I wanted each
groove to be 2” away from the last. There must be a clever
math way to do it, but I couldn’t figure it out, so I simply marked a 2” point.
The jig is made of one piece that fits into the groove and the
top piece which is ripped to the 2-inch marks I just made. Not
“rocket-science” but it worked.
So with the “jig” in the last groove I cut, I move the guide
clamp up until it firmly touches the jig and clamp it in place.
7
I remove the jig and route a new groove with the router base
against the clamp guide.
Well the grooving is going well but oh so slow. The mortising
bit can overheat easily, so I am making each groove in several
shallow passes. One of the problems with using mortising or
straight bits is that when you take the cut in steps, it is only
the bottom tip that does all the work.
I finally wised up and installed an up-spiral 1/2” diameter bit
in a second router. I will make the first cut with it and follow
with the 3/4” mortising bit. The up-spiral is only 1/2” — I don’t
have any larger. But it still worked fine. I was able to make
one pass with the spiral at full 3/8” depth and follow with the
3/4” mortising bit at full depth. Both bits worked without any
strain and the final groove was smooth with very little “fuzzing.”
Even with the vacuum attached to the 2nd router, there was a
lot of sawdust to suck up.
8
Beth is back and inspecting my progress.
Do you remember that we used iron-on edge banding before
the grooving. This is why. We clamped the edges together, and
they served as perfect “backups” to each other — and there is
literally zero tearout at the notches. A little hand sanding is all
that is needed. If we had not done this, the edging would be
torn up in many places.
Beth runs a block plane over the edges to make them “picture
perfect.”
The garage isn’t done but we can already start to use the CMT
table insert concept. Beth places the CMT Pocket-Pro into
place.
9
We are using pocket screw joinery so Beth places the back on
the jig. The board is large and flexible right now, but the table
handles it perfectly.
Beth drills holes every 8 inches or so — she just makes sure
that the hole is positioned where there is wood, not a groove..
When she starts to assemble the unit, she uses a scrap piece
of plywood to make sure that the grooves are aligned before
screwing the assembly in place.
Once both ends are aligned and clamped, Beth loosens one
end and moves the back away just enough to apply some
glue.
10
She has glued the other end, then repositioned the back and
is now driving screws home. The pocket screws are 1 1/4”
coarse thread and pull each section together for some nice
glue squeeze out.
With the one side fastened to the back, she applies glue to
the other side. Note, that it is resting on the black right angle
guides that she has clamped in place to help her position the
side.
With the side in position, she can start driving the pocket
screws in place.
With the three sides assembled, Beth has carefully measured
and cut two pieces that will be glued and screwed at the top
and bottom.
11
She goes back to the Pocket-Pro and drills some holes for attaching
these pieces.
With the top in place, she has added a piece of edge banding and is
now sanding the edges. There will be a top to cover these pocket holes
and on the bottom, they will be down and resting on the base.
Beth has cut a scrap piece of plywood to about 1 1/2” wider than the
case and is installing 4” casters. You can see that she has rounded the
corners, run the slotting bit and has added the black plastic “bumper.”
She is using machine screws which, when tightened, are pulled into the
top — just enough to be flat against the base.
The machine screws were 1/2” too long, and she cut off the excess
with a hacksaw. Now the casters swivel freely.
She positions it on the case and will attach with some wood screws.
12
It is looking good. We have to mount two more routers and then we
can figure out the real position of each unit. For sure, we will want the
heavier units at the bottom. I think we will also have space for a sliding
drawer or two. Also, we will create a simple way to manage the power
cords so they don’t hang down and get combobbled* with the other
cords..
It will be fun to have it finished and ready for testing — a cabinet door
project, maybe. For sure, this unit is built to be used.
* combobbled - I know, my spell check didn’t have it either, but it is
very descriptive, isn’t it?
During the week, I worked a bit on the garage. Here I am cutting Baltic
birch with a green phenolic covering. If you recall, I have been using
“Finnform” a similar product but red covered, from Woodpeckers. This
material is green and is carried at Woodcraft.
I am cutting it to the exact dimensions of the CMT insert (arrow.) I will
cut two.
I have made a sandwich of the CMT insert and the two pieces I just cut. I
have them clamped together which is fine for the work at the drill press.
Here, I am drilling a small hole through the leveler positions.
The arrow shows the one bolt I have threaded through the entire stack. I
am cutting threads in the hole at the other end for another bolt.
13
I am installing a 2” high 1/2” diameter pattern bearing bit. The router is
a mid-range one (2hp Porter Cable 7529.) It has a shaft lock so using a
single wrench works well.
Making the duplicates couldn’t be easier. The bearing guides on the top
plate and cuts the other two plates to the exact same shape — corners
and all.
I have centered the router’s base plate on the sandwich and am back at
the drill press to drill the three holes that fix the router to the plate.
This is the final insert plate for the small routers. I am using the PorterCable 690LRVS. I have had my regular 690s for years. But they run at
22,000 rpm — just too fast for the rail and stile bits that are about 1
7/8” in diameter. According to the CMT guide, the speed for that size bit
should be 18,000rpm. The new model has speed adjustments of 10,000
to 27,500.
You can see that I drilled a different hole size than the CMT plate. I
decided to use a 2” Forstner and make the holes that size. For my use
here, that is a good size hole and doesn’t need any adapters.
14
Beth is here and starts a new task. She will be the first to use the insert
garage by making a two panel door for the unit. I have some padauk and
figured maple which we will use for the doors.
Beth starts by setting up roller stands at both the in and outfeed sides
of the Delta 13” planer.
I will have to get some good hose clamps. In the meantime, Beth connects the dust collection hose to the dust port of the planer.
She tightens the clamp on the portable dust collector.
She turns the planer on and adjusts the speed to the finishing speed.
This is the slower speed, but it should be better for running the figured
maple through it.
15
Beth uses a small caliper to measure the board thickness.
The arrow points to the machine’s height window. We have
no experience to know how accurate the machine gauge is so
we will use the hand calipers this time. Beth measures about
1 1/16”, and she wants to end up with a thickness of 3/4”
exactly.
She feeds the board into the planner. We have run several
boards through the planer with this setup and have experienced no snipe.
It didn’t take all that much time for Beth to get to the final
thickness of 3/4”. That is exactly what she now reads.
At the table saw, Beth has installed a CMT rip blade and set
the GripTite fence in place. With these magnetic hold downs
set so that they just “kiss” the boards, she can feed the board
through the saw blade and have no kickback. She is cutting
new edges on the board.
16
She cuts the boards in thirds at the CMS.
She measures the three boards as they would be in a single
panel. The width is just right and the fit of the boards is excellent — no further jointing is necessary.
She applies glue to the maple edges. The arrow is directed at
the maple board I had glued up earlier. These maple pieces
will be the raised panels for our doors.
Beth lightly taps the rubber mallet to even up the boards as
she applies a little pressure to the clamps. After this coaxing,
the panel is real smooth.
17
With her glue-up in the clamps and drying, she turns to the
panel that was clamped up the day before. She uses a paint
scraper to remove a small amount of glue squeeze-out.
Beth uses the Festool Rotex 150 sander/polisher to sand
the glued up panels. While every effort was made to glue the
boards evenly, there is always a minor bit of sanding required.
Beth is using 80 grit sandpaper and has switched the unit to
a more aggressive sanding action. It doesn’t take long in this
mode to smooth out any unevenness.
With the panel evened out, she changes the sander’s action to
random orbital.
With the sander in the random orbital mode, Beth can sand
the entire surface to get any swirls out. In this mode, the sander is easy to operate — it almost glides across the surface.
18
With the panel done, Beth checks the program that I used to
create dimensions for all the components of the doors. I used
Raised Panel Doors, Ver. 5. It has never let me down. She has
a printout that will allow her to cut all the elements to the right
size. Their website is listed below.
In preparation for crosscutting the rails and stiles, Beth is
installing a CMT 80 tooth cabinet maker’s blade — it gives the
smoothest crosscuts in the shop.
Beth has placed the Incra 5000 cross cut sled in place on the
table saw and is checking for alignment.
She has set the Incra Stop to the exact measurement of the
rails. With this set, it is easy for her to cut the four pieces. The
rails and stiles will be made of padauk lumber. I very carefully,
planed the board and cut the widths in preparation for Beth’s
visit.
19
She makes one last check of the measurements.
At the garage, Beth looks over the CMT/Sommerfeld Ogee Cabinet Making Set. This is a great set that I have used over the
past few years. The raised panel cutter has a back cutter so
that you cut the panel with the precise edge to fit the groove of
the rail and stile.
She slides out the insert with the coping bit.
This is where we quit for the day. Next week we will show the
Insert Garage in full swing.
20
Well, a new week for work on the “Garage.” It is time to select
routers. The arrow points to one of my PC690’s. It has been a
favorite workhorse for years. Unfortunately, at a fixed speed of
22,000 rpm, I couldn’t use it with many of the router bits that
I used.
I asked the good people at Porter Cable to suggest models
that would work. They did better than that. They sent me three
routers that they felt would be right for the Garage concept.
The one on the left, is a new variable speed model of the 690.
It is the PC690LRVS. It has 1 3/4hp motor with soft start and
variable speed. The middle one is the PC7529. It is a plunge
router with 2hp and variable speed and soft start. The third
router is heavy and heavy duty. It is the PC 7539 — a plunge
router with 3 1/4hp and five speed and soft start.
Beth and I will try to give each of these a fair trial. Without
a doubt, the variable speed 690 should work well for the rail
and stile bits.
The two rail and stile bits are just under 2” each so the recommended speed is 18,000 rpm. (CMT’s speed chart)
We will be using one of the “green” inserts which we made
with 2” holes. The bit will fit exactly and no additional adapter
plate will be necessary.
21
I usually put a 1/2” diameter O-ring in the bottom of the
collet. Marc Sommerfeld tells me that he now uses one of the
CMT Panalign Strips. Beth has done that here. The lower arrow
shows one of these strips. The arrow at the left is a strip folded
over and stuffed into the base of the collet. Whether you use a
strip or an O-ring, the key thing is not to install a bit “bottomed
out.”
It is easiest to change bits in this router with the motor removed. Also, note that Beth has positioned the two wrenches so
that she can grip them with one hand and use a scissors type
of tightening action. This method can prevent a lot of bruised
knuckles.
Still out of the table, Beth can adjust the height of the coping
bit so that the “lip” is about 1/8” high. She uses a Formica
chip to help her set this height. One chip is about 1/16” so
she guessimates twice that. This setting doesn’t have to be
exact, but it is the measurement from which all other cuts
must match.
Beth also adjusts the speed dial to the three position.
22
Have you ever had thoughts about what would happen if you
accidentally plugged an “ON” router into a live outlet? Scary.
I found a short extension cord with a neon installed in the
outlet. The arrow shows it on. If it is on, it has power to it and I
do not want to plug the router in.
Beth checks and adjusts the level of the plate.
Beth uses the adjustable square to align the fence with the
bit’s bearing
She has adjusted both fences to give her about 1/8” clearance on both sides. As a last minute check, Beth rotates the bit
manually to ensure that it clears the fence.
23
Using a push pad, Beth routes a sample.
Remember the 1/8” lip she wanted and set the router for?
Here is that lip. It is very important to have that.
It took Beth less than 3 minutes to make the cuts in all eight
ends of the rails.
Before she changes routers or bits, Beth uses this handy gauge to measure the router bit’s height. She is measuring the top
of the post. While “matched sets” usually allow us to measure
heights from the bottom, I assume we can also measure from
the top.
24
Beth puts back the router with the cope bit (1) and takes out
the router with the matched profiling bit (2). What could be
easier.
For this first time, she carefully adjusts the router height to the
height gauge she set from the profile router.
And, once again she sets the fence to the bits bearing. She
could have put stops in place for setting the fence, but this
way seems easy enough.
To run the rails, she presses the coped end into the push
block which she has cut the profile in. It holds exactly and
minimizes tearout of the coped end. This is a real neat trick we
learned from Marc Sommerfeld.
25
With the push pad and rail together, Beth can make the profile
cut of the rail.
Running the longer stiles is easy. She just uses her left hand
and a safety push pad to hold the piece down and against the
fence and her right hand with a Stots push shoe to move the
piece safely through the cutter.
Beth does a quick test of a corner. It is perfect.
The next step is to cut the panels. The software program gave
us the exact measurements, but Beth still double checks the
numbers. The frame is dry fit and the measurements are easily
made — from “lip” to lip. This is the same measurement that
you would have if you were measuring inside the groove. She
will subtract 1/4” from the measurement to have room for the
Panalign Strips.
26
Beth carefully cuts the panel using the Incra 5000. You can
see at the right, she is using the Incra Stop which she has set
for the exact length she needs.
This time, Beth takes the midsize router from the garage. It is
the PorterCable 7529 — a 2 hp plunge router. In the past, I
have used only the Hitachi M12V which boasted a 3 1/2 hp
motor. It will be interesting to see first hand what this 2 hp
unit will do, and if it is up to the panel raising task.
This router is unique since it has available a height adjustment
knob (arrow.) Unfortunately this adjusts the plunger’s depth
mechanism. This works quite well when using it manually,
but in the table, you have to plunge to the new setting. Beth
and I both found it difficult to apply plunging pressure without
pushing the insert plate out.
However, once this height is set, it can be locked and left in
— if 2 horse power is enough.
Beth is routing the raised panel in four increments to minimize the amount of work required from this router. Staging the
cut in that way, she was able to make the sequence of cuts
without exertion of the router.
We tried to make the cut in two moves as we would normally
do, and the router bogged down. This is maple which is moderately hard. In red oak or ash, it would be much less forgiving.
27
Beth examines the cut very closely. The final pass cleaned up
the cut and the panel looks very good.
Beth tries the new panel in the frame.
It is still just dry fit, but she can’t resist looking at it in place
on the garage. It will look great with an oil finish.
A number of friends have asked if it makes sense to spend
so much money for figured maple and padauk for “shop cabinets.” I think so. For one, it gives Beth and me some serious
sampling of our craft. Secondly, we spend a lot of time in the
shop so why shouldn’t it be the best that we can make it.
Next week, we will try that big router of Porter Cable’s. I am
hoping that the addition of a RouterRaizer will allow it to be
“tamed” for router table use. In any case, we will be finished
with the garage and on to some new project(s).
The starting point this week is the mounting of this large
PorterCable Router. It is the PC 7539 — a plunge router with
3 1/4hp and five speed and soft start. I know that it will only
work in the table if I add a RouterRaiser lift mechanism to it.
The RouterRaizer’s instructions include this model in its specification sheet, so that is what I will do.
28
I have installed the RouterRaizer a number of times, but all to
the Hitachi M12V so I want to take my time and follow each
step of the instructions exactly.
The first step is to remove the plunge lock handle.
And then remove the bolt that is holding the spring. This spring
puts tension on the lock lever so that it is normally closed.
With the RouterRaizer, we want it to be held open or at least
not spring closed. The kit comes with a replacement spring to
be put in the original spring’s place (inset).
The replacement spring is in place and I am ready to reinsert
the plunge lock bolt. This is a reverse threaded bolt, and you
do not want to tighten it too much — your plunge will always
be locked. So, tighten it until the plunge is locked and then
back the bolt out about 1/4 turn.
29
Next, With the router partially plunged and locked, I remove
the plunge guide.
Next, I release the plunge lock and pull the router body
straight up — the plunge springs are released from the plunge
columns. This step was easy — getting them back in will be the
challenge.
On the template page for this router, there is a small outline
which I am cutting to size.
The tiny template fits the curved housing exactly. I am to drill
a 1/2” hole at the mark. Using a 1/8” drill to start makes the
drilling more accurate.
30
I temporarily place the unit back on its base so I can hold the
assembly level at the drill press. Drilling the hole is easy.
The RouterRaizer instructions include a page with all the parts
shown in actual size. What I have done is to place each part
on its picture so that when it comes time to install that part,
there is no mix-up. If it seems like there are a lot of parts, it
is due to the fact that this one kit can work on many different
models. Some parts will not be used in this installation. There
are quite a few small tools that are needed for the install. If
you look closely, some “tools” are sprayed a color. That, too, is
for mounting on a variety of routers. This is a well thought out
kit — all you have to do is take one step at a time.
There are a few steps that can seem complicated. I showed
above how they make it simple to locate the correct part. The
illustration at the left is one of many figures that illustrate
specific assemblies.
By the way, if you have been tempted to add a RouterRaizer
to your router, you can read all the instructions on their website. They are in PDF format and are exactly the same as what
comes with the kit. (there is a link at the end of this story.)
Per the instructions, I have started the assembly of the mainshaft.
31
The next step is to remove the sub-base.
Next, I have to remove one of the two plunge posts. It is held
in by a short pin. The instructions say to use a hammer to
pound it out of there, and that is what I did — scary at first
and then it started to move.
I have reinserted the post and am drilling for insertion of two
new pins. The arrow points to one of those freebie drill size
gauges I keep getting from one of the subscription services. I
hate to admit it, but it is useful at times.
With a hammer and a tool supplied in the kit, I am able to
put the shaft back with two pins that also come with the kit.
32
I am preparing to put the plunge body back together. I have
placed the springs in the columns. The left spring uses the
black plastic rod that was in there originally (arrow). On the
nearer spring, I am inserting the brass guide that is part of the
kit.
The next step is to squeeze these two springs and get the
motor unit back on the columns. It takes two extra hands — in
my case, Sal, who was shooting pictures is now helping me
put the two units together — and therefore no picture.
I am preparing to put the plunge body back together. I have
placed the springs in the columns. The left spring uses the
black plastic rod that was in there originally (arrow). On the
nearer spring, I am inserting the brass guide that is part of the
kit.
The next step is to squeeze these two springs and get the
motor unit back on the columns. It takes two extra hands — in
my case, Sal, who was shooting pictures is now helping me
put the two units together — and therefore no picture.
I tried to cut the screw holes with a sharp knife, but it wasn’t
working. Here is what I did successfully. I put the gasket material between two blocks of wood. I placed the template on top
then I could drill the four holes and hopefully have nice holes
for the screws.
It worked. Now I have to cut the two large holes so that the
gasket is the shape of the router’s base.
33
My next task is to drill the holes for attaching the insert plate
to the router. I want the plunge lock lever facing front, and I
want the RouterRaizer crank forward of the fence. With these
two criteria met, I am lucky to be able to orient the plate that
way.
I use the router’s base plate to center the unit at the hole.
Having taped the base plate in position, I drill a screw hole
slightly larger than the one in the base plate.
I then carefully drill a countersink hole just deep enough to
hide the heads of the 5/16” bolts.
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I have placed the gasket material in the sandwich of router
and insert plate.
I keep a Japanese kitchen knife in my toolbox for cutting thick
foam and insulation bats, and it seem perfect for this task. I
am trimming the inner circle of the gasket material right flush
with the inner router casting. This difficult to cut material is
trimmed easily this way.
Finally, on the outside circumference, I use the utility knife and
many cuts — eventually the material gave up.
A day passes and Beth is here to continue working on the
panel door. She gives the panel a final sanding before shaping
the edges.
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She brings the new router insert from the “garage.”
And places it into the router table’s opening. I have previously
set the bit height based on the door we did last week.
The CMT fence can be used with inserts or by just sliding
the individual fences. Since this bit will be used often and
the shape lends itself to making a special fence insert, Beth
sketches around the shape of the bit.
She has used a saber saw to shape the profile and now manually rotates the bit to ensure that there is sufficient clearance. It is fine, and she is ready to shape the raised panel.
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Beth has set the fence so that on this first cut only a small
portion of the back cutter is exposed. It is about the half-way
point of this bit.
For the second and final cut, Beth adjusts the fence so that it
is aligned with the bearing. After making this adjustment, she
checks again to see that the bit can make one full revolution
without hitting the fence insert.
She makes the final cut. She always starts with an end grain
and then rotates to the side and so on. This way, any splintering of the end grain will be removed in the side cut. She also
makes a second pass on the final cut just to smooth out and
“polish” the final cut.
Beth inspects the cut, and it is perfect. Clearly the 3 1/2hp
Porter Cable router is the right one for this large bit.
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In preparation for clamping, Beth sets the K-body clamps into
the K-body blocks.
The blocks have shallow and deep slots. This allows one clamp
to be put in going one direction and the second clamp to be
held over the first and in the other direction. They are meant
for this operation of rail and stile door assembly. What is really
nice, is that once setup, the clamps don’t flop over but stay
upright and ready.
Beth spreads yellow carpenter’s glue over the rail’s end. There
is a lot of good gluing surface in this joint, so she wants to
brush the glue in and make full use of it. There will be no
metal fasteners used here.
Beth inserts one Panalign Strip into the end rail and two in
each side stile. These will be compressed by the raised panel
and allow some seasonal shifting without forcing the frame.
If you recall, she allowed for 1/4” in both directions for these
flexible strips.
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She clamps the assembly. The clamps going the long direction
are tightened just enough so that the rail/stile corners are
flush. The shorter clamps are tightened just enough to bring
the joint together. It is a nice system.
This is almost the last of the work on the insert garage. Next
week, we will hang the doors and put some coats of clear
gloss on both the doors and the garage itself. It will give Beth
a chance to use some HVLP equipment — one that we have
never used.
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