Beautiful food from the Palace Kitchens and
Transcription
Beautiful food from the Palace Kitchens and
Beautiful food from the Palace Kitchens and beyond ‘Carolyn……… You are quite simply, a genius and I have no idea what I would do without you.’ HRH Prince Charles Carolyn Robb Formerly personal chef to Their Royal Highnesses Prince Charles & Princess Diana ‘Sarah, with constant gratitude for your botanical brilliance. Charles.’ Sarah Champier Formerly personal florist to His Royal Highness Prince Charles HRH Prince Charles 2 3 ‘A TRIFLE ROYAL’ ‘A TRIFLE ROYAL’ An Outline of the Concept Summary of the layout of the book ‘A Trifle Royal’ brings together two talents; combining their extensive knowledge and unique experience with a good measure of panache. It is a collection of treasured recipes, many of them royal favourites. This food has been served to Kings and Queens, presidents and rock stars, not forgetting some of the world’s finest chefs. It has graced the beautifully dressed tables of royal gala dinners and high society banquets, where pure culinary & floral theatre has been created. Such special menus received great acclaim for their pure simplicity, assertive flavours and exquisite appearance. •Pages of book measure 330mm x 250mm These same recipes have been the centre-piece of many a happy, long, leisurely family gathering or special celebration for loved ones. The recipes call for carefully selected ingredients which are simple to prepare. The flavour combinations are uncompromisingly fresh, uncomplicated and vibrant. The presentation can be informal, but is always beautiful and often surprising. Although these recipes are never overly rich, extravagant or expensive, some do allow for a well-deserved measure of indulgence! The recipes are tried and tested like no others; having been successfully prepared everywhere from palatial state-of-the-art kitchens to sparsely equipped, remote castle sculleries, along with many a cramped galley and challenging ‘shoe-box space’ on yachts, aeroplanes and trains. They have been taken on royal tours, prepared around the globe and some have been recreated in the most modest of spaces, bearing little resemblance to a kitchen! Each recipe has its own tale to tell. Some are epic and give a glimpse of the frenetic activity in the royal kitchen; whilst beyond the green baize door all is calm and serene! Some relate fond reminiscences from within a French country kitchen. Whatever the anecdote, each recipe holds a special place and a fond memory from this privileged and exciting culinary journey that we have travelled. The joyful experience of sitting down to a wonderful meal, however simple, is comprised of many elements and goes way beyond merely the food on the plate. The table you are seated at and the crockery, cutlery, linen and glassware are just the basic elements. Flowers always played an integral part in creating a special ambience for each meal that was served to the Royal Table. Seasonal dishes were served against a backdrop of beautiful floral arrangements, as chef and florist worked in harmony to create thoughtful, evocative, fresh combinations of colours, flavours, scents and aromas using beautiful home grown produce and flora. •Book will have 8 chapters •Each chapter will begin with a double page photograph and list of the contents within that chapter. •Within this treatment there are 2 examples of chapter headers. •Each chapter will have approximately 12 recipes •Recipe list in this treatment may still be amended to create the best possible selection of dishes. •Each recipe will cover a double page •Each recipe will have at least one colour photograph •Each recipe will have either a ‘culinary note’ or a ‘royal anecdote’ or a ‘floral note’ with it. •Within this treatment there are 5 examples of recipe page layouts; 1 starter, 1 ‘light & summery’ dish, 2 desserts and 1 cake. •All recipes are suitable to be prepared in a standard domestic kitchen and do not require specialist equipment. •Each chapter will include several pages of floral inspiration that relate to specific recipes. Within this treatment we have included one example of this. •In this treatment there is a double page of ‘royal memorabilia’ thumbnail photographs, this is to give a glimpse of some of the material that is available to be presented throughout this book. Creative styling and exceptional photography bring every dish in the book to life. Royal anecdotes, culinary snippets, favourite quotations, floral inspiration and beautiful sketches all add to the charm and appeal of this book. The professional chef and aspiring home cook alike cannot fail to be inspired and empowered to serve truly stunning food… with that little extra ‘Royal Touch’. 4 5 Carolyn Robb Biography My life ‘in food’ has been an adventure. The road that I have travelled as a result of my love for creating delicious and beautiful things to eat, has afforded me experiences that were way beyond my wildest dreams….. I have cooked for every member of the immediate British Royal family, I have cooked in royal palaces and castles throughout the UK and in such far flung corners of the world as Bhutan, Guyana, Kathmandu and Kuwait. I have cooked on the wonderful royal yacht, HMY Britannia, for events as historic as the Hong Kong hand-over. By the age of 25 I felt as if I had had a lifetime’s worth of experiences, and I was only four years into my thirteen year ‘royal stint’! What a privilege to be able to earn a living from doing what I love most, for such appreciative employers for whom I had, and always will have, the greatest of respect and admiration. Of course, tasting, testing and eating are the greatest education for any chef, and this is the aspect of my work that I love most of all. I am happy to taste the same dish over and over as I strive to perfect it, a fine-dining experience is always a treat, but equally I love to sit down with a good cup of coffee and a great piece of cake! I will never tire of these things and they all compensate for the inevitable long hours and the less glamorous side of a chef’s work. I am now drawing on my diverse culinary experience and experiences of the past 25 years. I am remembering the words of wisdom of some of the world’s finest chefs, with whom I have been so privileged to work ….. to name but a few Raymond Blanc, Roger Verge, Anton Mosimann, The Roux brothers and Gualtiero Marchesi. I am enjoying every minute of compiling this special book. My philosophy about food: I wasn’t born with a silver spoon in my mouth; for this I will always be grateful! However, at no age at all I had a wooden spoon in my little hand and was at my mother’s side in the kitchen mixing, baking and tasting and for this I am eternally grateful. I was born and raised in South Africa, the youngest of five children. My childhood was happy and carefree and from a very young age food was all important to me. My mother is a wonderful cook and my father has always produced an astonishing array of superb home-grown fruit and vegetables. How could I not have grown up always looking forward to my next home-cooked meal and being passionate about the provenance of the ingredients that I cook with? One of the things that I love most about cooking is having the ability to bring a smile to someone’s face by placing a wonderful plate of food in front of them. The recipes in this book have all done this – over and over again. Food does not need to be extravagant, expensive, rich or impossibly complicated to prepare in order to achieve this; quite the opposite in fact. Contrary to popular belief, the ‘royal diet’ is not comprised of indulgent extravagances such as lobster and caviar, and foie gras never features! The food that I cooked for the royal table was always simple, fresh and seasonal, as you will see through the pages of this book. Perfection in simplicity is one the hardest things to achieve, but is what every chef strives for! At the age of 21, I gained my diploma in Cordon Bleu Cookery with distinction and I embarked on my incredible journey. First stop, Kensington Palace where I remained for 13 years. I was chef to TRH The Duke and Duchess of Gloucester and their three young children for two years. Then I was offered a highly sought-after position in the household of TRH The Prince and Princess of Wales, Prince William and Prince Harry. I grabbed this with both hands. These would surely be dream jobs for any young chef, and for me they were a dream come true. I look forward to sharing my personal glimpses into this very special world throughout the pages of this book. My four simple guidelines for producing delicious food: On leaving the Royal Household I spread my wings and moved to Dubai, where I relished the assault on all my culinary senses as I explored a whole new world of Middle Eastern ingredients and gastronomy. I gained invaluable experience in the commercial world of food and subsequently enjoyed a year of working as the food editor for ‘Time Out’ magazine, in Dubai and Abu Dhabi, reviewing hundreds of incredible restaurants; what a luxury it was to be on the other side of the kitchen door! I also lived in California for two years…. abundant sunshine, fantastic farmers’ markets, invigorating early morning triathlon training sessions and the joy of unearthing yet another whole new world of food and food culture - these are the memories that rise to the top from my time there! When I started cooking for TRH Prince Charles and Princess Diana in 1989, I was just 23. I feel very fortunate that so early in my career I worked for someone with such a passion for caring for our environment, such incredible vision and such foresight as HRH Prince Charles. He was, and still is, one of the great champions of the organic movement in the UK and had one of the first fully certified organic farms. Through working for His Royal Highness, I gained an understanding of concepts such as GMO’s, traceability, carbon footprint and food miles long before their importance was appreciated by chefs in kitchens. I will always be very grateful to His Royal Highness for opening my eyes to the importance of thinking about the origins of the food that we eat. How food has been produced and where it has come from directly impacts on our environment, the quality of the food and our health. This is why I always advocate using locally produced food, (if it is organic even better, but this is not accessible to everyone.) On my return to the UK I established my own company, where I am able to participate in all the sectors of the food world that I most enjoy. I keep my hand in as a chef, cooking for a select list of private and corporate clients and managing events. I also offer consultancy services for new projects and product development. Writing about food never feels like work to me and it is always a joy to tackle a writing assignment. Food will always be my greatest passion. The more I know, the more I want to know – and there is still so much more to know! I thank my lucky stars that the process of continuing to educate myself entails pleasure upon pleasure….. Wandering through food markets, the world over, I seek out ingredients that are new and exotic to me. I often find they are the cornerstone of some ancient cuisine about which I know very little and this opens up a whole new avenue to explore. I will frequently be found lingering in the cookbook aisles of a book store, being tempted by every new and beautiful tome (despite my already groaning bookshelves at home!) 6 1.Keep it simple, both the recipe itself and the presentation of the food. 2.Use ingredients that are locally produced and are in season. 3.Take time and prepare the food with care. 4.Taste the food as you go along and season it carefully, seasoning can make or break a dish. Carolyn Robb 7 Sarah Champier My philosophy about flowers Biography Born a 50s baby in flaming June to loving parents and doting grandparents; my childhood was blessed with the strong foundation of family values and much love. I recall my earliest years being so safe and cosy; all of us enjoying family gatherings and always an abundance of home cooked food. Gardens and flowers also played their part. Memories were colourful and fragrant. My love of plants and flowers grew with me. I studied art, gaining a place at college at 16. Following three years at Art school I went on to freelance, before marriage and children brought me my greatest gift. Having married a French man it soon became apparent that my knowledge of food and creating delicious meals was rather more limited than I had believed. Over the years he taught me everything I know. Eventually we moved to France and set up our own restaurant in the depths of the Montagne de Matin, 40 kilometres from Lyon. I was front of house with a handful of French and the biggest smile. I also took responsibility for creating the desserts. The two combined seemed to be the perfect recipe to improve my knowledge of the language. This was a glorious vibrant time; surrounded by wonderful ingredients in a nation where the people are so passionate about what they eat. Tables were dressed to suit the seasons and my creative floral streak flourished along with my skills in the kitchen. We returned to England with a host of experience and my husband went on to train as a lecturer in a cookery school and I was able take up my life long love of flowers and I trained as a florist. I ran through my training, gleaning experience at every twist and turn. On gaining my diploma at Pershore College of Horticulture I was soon taken under the wing of a designer and I ran a very stylish flower shop in Montpelier, Cheltenham. I was in my element surrounding myself with flowers. It was a dream-come-true. I also joined WRAG’s (women returners to amenity gardening) hoping that they would help me find a garden, enabling me to add this experience to my repertoire. They did and the rest is history. Born with a genuine love of flowers, my life has been entwined with a floral element. Flowers appeared on my radar from a very young age whilst playing in my grandmothers garden. I still hold that garden with great esteem and can walk around it in my mind, recalling the blooms and their perfume that sang out to me all those years ago. I have been blessed with a floral passion that allows me see natures tapestry all around me. Whether it be the tiniest toad flax overflowing from a crevice in an old wall, or of the living carpet beneath my feet on a woodland walk. Although I have dabbled with flowers all of my life my floristry training brought me a second career that has given me one of my most special achievements. This was serving the royal household as the personal florist to HRH The Prince of Wales, Prince Charles . He is a great lover of plants, gardening and the environment, and he was fond of my natural informal style, recreating nature with nature itself. Simplicity to me is the key; a jug of snowdrops, a bowl of ‘blousy’ peonies or a vase of fresh spring foliage. I generally like to keep displays clean, allowing the flowers to sing rather than them competing with each other. Of course, flowers naturally lend themselves to being gathered and displayed in bunches, combining colour and fragrance alike. Flowers have the ability to enhance your mood and brighten your day. You should never doubt the joy a gift of flowers will bring. I do have a penchant for making the ordinary look extraordinary. You will observe this flamboyant streak as you turn the pages of this book. I follow the belief of Henri Matisse, “ There are always flowers for those who want to see them” in all their guises! I was offered a position in the gardens at Highgrove, the country residence of HRH The Prince of Wales and Princes William and Harry. After a matter of weeks I was spotted and asked to help arrange flowers for an event. This lead to a new position being created for me; Personal florist to His Royal Highness. More than eleven extraordinary years of travelling with HRH followed. I worked in palaces and castles across the land; creating floral arrangements for everything from small informal dinners to huge banquets and for all the members of the royal family. This was my vocation and one for which I am truly grateful. My admiration and affection for His Royal Highness and for Princes William and Harry is constant. They enabled me to express my true self and embraced my style and unrivalled passion for nature. During this time I met my dear friend Carolyn Robb, she was ensconced in the kitchen. We often went on tour together sharing floral notes and culinary flavours. This was truly memorable time for us both. Our friendship continued following her departure from the household as she continued her adventures in Dubai and beyond. It was inevitable perhaps that we would plan a new venture together; so it was that ‘TasteBud’ was born. We have travelled together extensively delivering our passion for food and flowers. My French restaurant experience allowing me in some small way to share and combine our passion for food and create this cookery book. I feed my desire to embrace new skills and have begun a diploma in botanical illustration at The English Gardening School in Chelsea. With the love of my darling daughters Laura and Lydia, my most constant supporters, I continue to absorb myself in many things whether it be my love of motorcycles or my desire to familiarise myself with new horizons and cultures. Life to me is all about my family, my friends and sharing the most delicious plate of food. I hope you feel the same after reading this book! 8 Sarah Champier 9 THE CREATIVE ALLIANCE OF A CHEF AND A FLORIST With twenty four years of Royal household experience between them, Carolyn and Sarah share many fond memories of the excitement and challenges of their respective positions and responsibilities. They spent many a long hour in the steamy kitchens and chilly flower rooms of palaces and castles across the land, creating beautiful menus and stunning floral displays that would culminate in the ‘theatre’ of many very special royal occasions and events. Carolyn and Sarah have remained good friends and have subsequently worked together on many high profile events, both in the UK and abroad, for private clients, including other members of the royal family. They are intuitive in the way that they work together; with the choice of food and flowers always complementing one another. They share a passion for cooking and eating delicious food. Carolyn’s ‘royal recipes’ are complemented by recipes from Sarah’s family restaurant in France. It is clear to see that they are like-minded souls who both love to cook up a storm for all invited to their table. Carolyn’s natural skill in the kitchen and her extensive repertoire echoed by Sarah’s artistic flair and creative imagination take the reader on an inspiring journey from the chopping board to the dining table…... INDEX MAGNIFICENT MORSELS Great little things to nibble….. • Crispy bacon, slow-baked vine tomato and avocado toasts • Little filo pastries filled with spinach, caramelised shallots, ricotta & pine kernels • Multi-grain • Quick crostini of creamed chanterelles with leeks and chives Pancetta and quails eggs tartlets • Risotto balls with Parmesan, thyme and a molten Fontina centre • Salmon goujons with a crisp brioche-herb crust and lime & basil mayonnaise • Spiedini • Sweet of bacon wrapped scallops with new potatoes and a lemon dressing potato, red onion and basil tortilla served with avocado salsa • ‘Tartiflette’ • Welsh ramekins rarebit BAKESHOP Bountiful breads… • ‘Butter-Zupf’• Flowerpot (a buttery Swiss bread with a silky crumb) bread • ‘Fougasse’ • Malted granary soda bread with dates and pecans • Mature Cheddar and chive bread • Potato, goats cheese, pine kernel & thyme bread • Royal • Sour soda bread dough bread • Spice bread • Walnut • Warm 10 bread wild garlic & herb bread 11 BEAUTIFUL BEGINNINGS LIGHT & SUMMERY First courses & Soups… ‘Cuisine legere’ & ‘Al-fresco’ fare • Angel • Butternut hair soup with Parmesan toast • Asparagus gratinated with Cambazola and served with chunky sourdough croutons • Butternut soup with a swirl of saffron cream and chives • Chanterais • Chicken melon soup with Parma ham liver salad with the famous ‘Champier dressing’ • Corn-crusted • Smoked • Double • Leek aubergine fritters with a balsamic roasted tomato and thyme sauce haddock, new potato and sweet corn chowder baked Swiss cheese soufflé with a ragout of green baby spring vegetables and Blue cheese tartlet with roasted cherry tomatoes • Minted pea risotto served with a dollop of crème fraiche • Peaches wrapped in Prosciutto crudo with buffalo mozzarella, caramelised pecans and micro-greens, white balsamic dressing • Poached egg on a warm new potato salad with hotsmoked salmon and sorrel butter • Roasted • Tian heirloom tomato soup with chunky basil pesto and crème fraiche of crab in dill mayonnaise with avocado slivers and tomato concasse • ‘Chevre’ gnocchi with a fresh tomato salsa and Parmesan shavings tartlets with balsamic roasted shallots, thyme and a wild arugula salad • ‘Coronation chicken’ with fresh mango and toasted almonds, served with a mixed grain salad • Fresh papardelle in a sweet pepper cream with asparagus, mangetout, aubergine, spring onions and basil. • Lentil salad with pecan crusted chicken, arugula & a blue cheese dressing • Lemon roasted sea bass on a baby spinach salad • Roasted globe artichoke with goats’ cheese and pine nuts on wilted greens and tomato pesto • Roast spring lamb served with minted broad-bean mash • Pan-fried scallops on a mesclun salad • Provencal • Salad Rose chicken served with fresh tagliatelli of pears, walnuts and Roquefort with a walnut dressing • Sautéed Salmon with Sorrel beurre blanc • Sautéed duck breast served with a raspberry vinegar dressing and potato rosti • Seared salmon with black bean and avocado salsa • Summer tart of Vine tomatoes with marjoram in a parmesan pine kernel pastry crust 12 13 WARM & COMFORTING SWEET TEMPTATIONS Entrees to warm heart and soul… Desserts! Puddings! Sweets!... • A • Apple marriage of chicken and morels served with gratin dauphinoise • Barbecued • Barley rib of beef with wild horseradish sauce risotto with butternut, kale, mascarpone and toasted pine kernels • Basque chicken with wild rice • Braised beef in red wine and thyme with tomatoes, shallots and Puys lentils served with creamy sweet potato puree • Buckwheat • Casserole • Egg pancakes with gruyere, red onion, spinach and creamed leeks of venison with cranberries, served with champ plant and goat’s cheese ‘moussaka’ • Loin of lamb with creamed white beans, lemon marinated artichokes and a mint gremolata • Mussels with charcuterie and sour dough chunks • Persian lamb shanks with jewelled couscous • Pot-roasted chicken with shallots, apples and Calvados served with crushed new potatoes • Pot roasted guinea fowl with celeriac mash and sweet and sour red cabbage • Roast cod with a ‘Mediterranean cloak’ served on a bed of spiced lentils • Seared supremes of chicken with basil pesto filling, served with stovetop potato and pancetta dauphinoise • Slow cooked lamb with saffron & apricots served with tomato, pine nut & mint bulgar wheat • Warm salad of roasted Jerusalem artichokes with smoked bacon, vine tomatoes and shallots. 14 ice cream with cinnamon crumble nuggets • Apricot, • Banana Amaretto and brioche butter pudding tatin with coconut cream • Blueberry clafoutis • Chocolate and salted caramel tart served with crème fraiche • Creamy ricotta and Greek yoghurt with mango and lime and a crunchy maple macadamia topping • Chocolate soufflés with Grand Marnier crème anglaise • Trifle Royal • Eton Mess • Iced ginger and meringue cream • Lemon posset served with honey sesame crisps • Lemon tart – the best ever! • Nougat parfait glace • Orchard • Praline fruits frangipan tart floating Islands • Rose bavarois with red berry compote • Rose wine jelly • Simple Damson tart • South African ‘Tipsy Tart’ • Warm baked lemon and lime pudding 15 TRACKLEMENTS & MORE CAKES & CONFECTIONS Close your eyes and think of an English Country afternoon tea From the preserving pan… • Angel’s • Dried cake with red berries and crème chantilly • ‘Bugnes’ apricot and passion fruit jam • Damson with apricot compote gin • Chocolate biscuit cake • Elderflower • Chocolate pistachio cookies • Kim’s • ‘Church • Coffee • Mrs. biscuits’ creamy fudge Vicar’s Christmas chutney • Orange caramel streusel slice • Constance Spry’s Belvoir ginger cake • Seville • Cranberry, pecan and linseed flapjacks • Spicy • Earl • Honey • Rich shortbread fingers with dark chocolate triple chocolate cake • Royal apple chutney vanilla conserve petal sugar cake gateau • Orange orange Marmalade shortbread • Marmalade • Mocha • Rose and Rosewater Baklava • Lavender and lemon curd with orange flower water • Strawberry Grey tea cake cordial GLOSSARY OF INGREDIENTS & COOKERY TERMS UK to USA translations! Cream scones with summer berries • Sticky Gingerbread with lemon frosting • Traditional Victoria sandwich cake, with a twist… 16 17 royal chef on tour picking mushrooms in Scotland royal tour to Trinidad, Jamaica & Guyana Royal tour to the Balkans 18 19 Beautiful Beginnings First courses & Soups… p.12 Angel hair soup with Parmesan toast p.14Asparagus gratinated with Cambazola and served with chunky sourdough croutons p.16Butternut soup with a swirl of saffron cream and chives p.30Minted pea risotto served with a dollop of crème fraiche p.18Chanterais melon soup with Parma ham p.32Peaches wrapped in Prosciutto crudo with buffalo mozzarella, caramelised pecans and micro-greens, white balsamic dressing p.20Chicken liver salad with the famous ‘Champier dressing’ p.34Poached egg on a warm new potato salad with hot-smoked salmon and sorrel butter p.22Corn-crusted aubergine fritters with a balsamic roasted tomato and thyme sauce p.36Roasted heirloom tomato soup with chunky basil pesto and crème fraiche p.24Smoked haddock, new potato and sweet corn chowder p.38Tian of crab in dill mayonnaise with avocado slivers and tomato concasse p.26Double baked Swiss cheese soufflé with a ragout of green baby spring vegetables Peas in a pod, created by Sarah p.28Leek and Blue cheese tartlet with roasted cherry tomatoes Minted pea Risotto Serves 4, generously Served with a dollop of Crème Fraiche & Crisp Pancetta Method: Ingredients: 1.Cook the frozen peas in boiling salted water until tender, (do 150g/6oz frozen peas not overcook or they will lose their vibrant green colour.)Drain and reserve a little of the water they were cooked in. 1 litre/ 36 floz chicken or vegetable stock (preferably not from a stock cube!) 2.Using a hand blender, blend the peas, while still warm, to a smooth puree adding 12,5ml – 25ml/1 - 2 tablespoons of the water and a knob of butter. 1 onion, peeled and very finely diced 3.Season with freshly ground black pepper and a little salt. 1 clove of garlic - crushed 4.Keep on one side 1 small leek, coarse outer layers removed, finely chopped, well washed and dried 5. Bring the stock to a simmer and keep it simmering. 6.In a heavy based, deep, saucepan sauté the onion, crushed garlic and 120g/ 4oz unsalted butter leek in 45g/1 ½ oz of butter, until it is very soft and starting to colour. 240g/8oz Canaroli risotto rice 7.Add the rice and stir well, cook gently for a couple of minutes 240ml/8 floz dry white wine to ensure that each grain is coated in butter. 8.Add the white wine and cook rapidly. Continue stirring 60g/2oz freshly grated parmesan until the liquid has mostly evaporated. 4 sprigs of mint, finely chopped 9.Add the stock gradually ladle by ladle. Cook over a low heat. Once 20ml/5tsp crème fraiche most of the stock has been absorbed add the next ladle of stock. 8 rashers of pancetta – cooked until very crisp 10.It is very important to keep stirring the rice as this helps to release its starchy coating while also allowing the harder kernel to gently swell and soften, giving a silky texture to the risotto. 11.It will take 15 – 18 minutes to cook the rice. Keep adding the stock and stirring well. Taste the risotto from time to time to see if the rice is cooked. You may not need all the stock. 12.When it is cooked add the pea puree and mix well to heat through thoroughly, but do not over cook at this stage or the colour will change to an unattractive olive green rather than a lovely fresh pea green! 13.Lastly vigorously mix in the remaining butter, Parmesan and chopped mint. 14.Spoon onto hot plates or soup bowls and top with a little crème fraiche and two pieces of crisp pancetta. This dish brings together two of my favourite English ingredients with, in my opinion, the greatest Italian dish of all. Each year HRH The Prince of Wales sent me for a couple of weeks to Italy or France to work in some amazing restaurant kitchens. My experience of learning to make risotto in Italy will always remain with me, it was almost like a wonderful sacred ritual! There are many stages in risotto making all with such evocative names: ‘Soffrito’ is the sautéed garlic and onion to which the rice is added. ‘Tostatura’ is the process of cooking the rice in the garlic, onion and butter to coat each grain with a film of fat. ‘Mantecatura’ is the vigorous beating in of butter and parmesan just before serving, to give the risotto a silky richness and to make it ‘all’onde’ – ‘flow in waves’ C.R. h dvice wit My best a don’t be risotto is take any tempted to stock . Add the short cuts eep dle and k la y b le d la ut nd don’t c stirring a ive e butter, g back on th treat! yourself a 23 Sa o c o C t a rah’s c Seared Salmon Fillet Served on a Tomato, Avocado and Black Bean Salsa Ingredients: Method: 1.An hour before you plan to cook the salmon, check it for any tiny bones that may need to be removed and place it on a flat tray or dish Serves 4 2.Brush each piece of fish with a little olive oil, grate some orange and lime zest directly onto it (you will lose all the wonderful aromatic essential oils from the citrus if you grate the zest onto a plate and then transfer it to the fish) and grind some black pepper over it. Turn the fish over and repeat the process. 3. Cover the dish with plastic wrap and refrigerate until required. 4.To make the salsa. The beans will need to be soaked overnight before use. Once soaked rinse them thoroughly and place them in a saucepan, cover with cold water and bring to the boil. Simmer for approximately 40 minutes, until tender (according to the specific instructions for the beans you are using) 5.When cooked, drain the beans well and place in a large bowl. Season with freshly ground sea salt and pepper and mix in the olive oil, lime juice and red onion, cover and leave for a couple of hours for the flavours to develop. 6.Don’t be tempted to use the tinned variety of beans – you will be disappointed in the flavour and appearance of the beans and especially the mushy texture! 7.Just before you are ready to cook the salmon, mix the remaining ingredients into the salsa. Check the seasoning and add salt and pepper as required. 8.To cook the salmon preheat a thick based frying/sauté pan (preferably non-stick) with a little olive oil. 9.When the pan is hot add the pieces of salmon fillet and cook for 2 – 3 minutes on each side, according to the thickness of the fish. The fish should colour slightly; it is at its most succulent when you can see that the centre of the fish is still slightly darker pink than the top and bottom (as per the photograph.) 10.To serve, pile some of the salsa into the centre of a plate and place the salmon on top. 11.This can be served cold but I like 25ml/2 tablespoons of mild olive oil 4 pieces of skinned salmon fillet each approximately 150g / 6oz in weight 1 orange - finely grated zest 2 limes – finely grated zest and juice Freshly ground sea salt and black pepper For the salsa: 120g/4oz black beans 2 large ripe plum tomatoes – skinned, de-seeded and diced 1 medium avocado, ripe yet firm, finely diced (I like to use the Haas or Fuerte varieties) 1 small red onion – very finely diced A good handful of Greek basil leaves (this variety has very small leaves, you can use other varieties but this has the best flavour and most attractive appearance) A handful of fine wild rocket leaves (arugula) 40ml/3 tablespoons of virgin olive oil it best when the fish is served warm. 20ml/ 1 1/2 tablespoons of lime juice (reserved from the salmon ingredients) You can use more lime juice if you like a very tangy salsa! 12.A lovely summer’s lunch; served al fresco with crusty bread and a crisp white wine! Freshly ground sea salt and black pepper Cooking with salmon always brings back fond memories of my many trips to Balmoral, in Scotland, with HRH The Prince of Wales. When we were there in the summer I often suggested salmon as an option in the daily menu book. HRH frequently chose it, but always wrote, ‘only if I catch one!’ What could possibly be better than fish as fresh as that, from the stunningly beautiful and pristine river Dee? (It was always good to have something else on standby in case the fishing party arrived home empty handed!) C.R. In my exp erience it is the countr yman who is the real go urmet and for good reaso n; It is he who has cultiv ated, raise d, hunted or fished the raw materials and has m ade the wine h imself. Balmoral castle Penelope Gra y 25 Kate’s bouquet and what all the flowers mean) lovely Lemons make merse table centres. Im glass some in a tall ith a vase and top w fill a floral display or ons and bowl with lem h foliage. intersperse wit rant. Fresh and frag Method: 1.To make the pastry: Cream together the butter and icing sugar, add the egg yolks and blend well. Mix in the flour to form a soft, but not sticky, dough. Depending on the size of the egg yolks, you may need to add a little cold water if the dough is dry or crumbly. Ingredients: 2.Wrap the pastry in cling film and chill in the refrigerator Sweet pastry: for at least 30 minutes before rolling out. 4oz / 120g unsalted butter 3.Roll out pastry, line a shallow sided 12 inch flan tin neatly rolling off the excess pastry. This luscious lemon tart was a permanent feature on the menu in our family restaurant in France. It is based on the recipe by The White House chef René Verdon, Head chef to John F Kennedy. The addition of passion fruit gives this tart a lovely top note. S.C. 2oz / 60g icing sugar 4.Prick base with a fork. Line with baking parchment, fill with ceramic baking beans and bake blind at 220’C / 425’F for 10 - 15 minutes. 5.Remove baking beans and baking parchment and bake a further 10 - 12 minutes. 2 egg yolks 8oz / 240g plain flour I teaspoon / 5ml iced water (should you need it) 6.To make the filling: Preheat the oven to 160’C / 320’F. 7.Beat eggs lightly, place in a heavy-based saucepan, add sugar, lemon juice (passion fruit juice if used), orange juice and rind. Filling: 8.Stir continuously over low heat until thick, but do NOT boil. 4 large eggs 9.Transfer lemon mixture into a mixing bowl and add cream and butter mixing all the time. 10oz / 300g caster sugar 10.Place this bowl into iced water to cool thoroughly, stirring occasionally. 11.Pour mixture into pastry case. 12.Bake in top of oven for 25 minutes, or until a skin has formed on the top. 13.To gauge when the filling is sufficiently cooked give tin a little shake and tart should quiver under the formed skin. 24floz / 600ml lemon juice or passion fruit juice or half and half 15floz / 450ml orange juice 3 lemons – finely grated zest 14.Serve cool with whipped cream or ice cream. 4floz / 110ml double cream 1oz / 30g unsalted butter Curious Coco 27 y my Luc Method: ues ing r e m g akin m fresh If you can’t get ot make a berries, why n s’ using ‘Hawaiian Mes sion fruit, pineapple, pas a and kiwi mango, banan go puree fruit! Use man berry and instead of rasp toasted sprinkle with coconut flakes 1.Set the oven to 325’F / 170’C 2.Line two baking trays with non-stick baking parchment. 3.Make the meringues: In a dry clean bowl whisk the egg whites to ‘stiff peak stage’ – they should be glossy and stand in firm peaks. 4.Gradually add all the sugar whisking continuously. Continue for about 5 minutes until the mixture is very thick and stands up on its own. Finally add the vanilla extract. DELICIOUS! 5.Using two spoons place the meringue mixture onto the baking tray in small mounds – or if you have a piping bag use a medium nozzle and pipe small meringues. 6.Bake for 1 – 1 ½ hours. When cooked they will be firm and ‘crisp’ and will easily lift off the baking parchment. Check them after an hour and cook for longer if required. Once cooked, turn off the oven and leave them in there to dry out further while the oven cools down. 7.The meringues can be made up to a week in advance. Store in an airtight container. (You can use bought meringues if you are pushed for time – but homemade ones are much nicer!) Ingredients: For the meringue: 3 egg whites (at room temperature) 8.Wash, dry and prepare all the berry fruits. 3oz / 90g white caster sugar 9.Whip the cream until thick and then stir in the 3oz / 90g golden caster sugar mascarpone, the sugar and chopped mint. A few drops of pure vanilla extract 10.Assemble the dessert either in one large bowl or in 4 individual sundae glasses. Layer up the fruit and the cream alternately with the meringues, (which have been coarsely crushed) and a drizzle of the raspberry puree, finishing with cream and then fruit. 11.Do not assemble the dish more than an hour before you are going to serve it as the meringues lose their crispness. 12.Garnish with mint leaves and dust with icing sugar just before serving. 13.For a more elaborate dinner party presentation, make little discs of meringue and layer them up in a stack with fruit and cream. Serve on individual dessert plates with a drizzle of fruit puree. Note of appreciation from HRH Filling: 8oz / 240g mixed berries (I use strawberries, blueberries and raspberries, but you can also include red or blackcurrants or blackberries) ½ cup / 110ml of raspberry puree (made by blending 4oz / 120g raspberries with 2 tablespoons / 25ml icing sugar and a few drops of lemon juice. After blending, rub through a fine sieve to remove all pips, then add 4 fresh mint leaves and blend again) Or you could use a bought red fruit sauce – but beware, it won’t have that lovely fresh, vibrant flavour! 1 cup / 225ml double cream ½ cup / 110ml mascarpone 2 tablespoons / 25ml caster sugar A handful of fresh mint leaves – very finely chopped A few extra mint leaves for garnish Icing sugar for dusting 28 ETON MESS Serves 4, This is my interpretation of a classic English summer dessert. It originates from Eton College, which Princes William and Harry attended. It dates back to the nineteenth century when it was served at the annual ‘June 4th prize giving day’ – which, according to the school’s historical anecdotes, was actually always held on the last Wednesday in May! C.R. Close your eyes and think of an English Country afternoon tea p.72 A ngel’s cake with red berries and crème chantilly p.74 ‘Bugnes’ with apricot compote p.76 Chocolate biscuit cake p.78 Chocolate pistachio cookies Floral handbag, created by Sarah p.90 Honey and Rosewater Baklava p.92 Lavender shortbread p.94 Marmalade cake p.96 Mocha gateau p.80 ‘Church biscuits’ p.98 O range shortbread fingers with dark chocolate p.82 Coffee caramel streusel slice p.100 Rich triple chocolate cake p.84 Constance Spry’s Belvoir ginger cake p.102 Royal Cream scones with summer berries p.86 Cranberry, pecan and linseed flapjacks p.104 Sticky Gingerbread with lemon frosting p.88 Earl Grey tea cake p.106Traditional Victoria sandwich cake, with a twist… Method: Ingredients: Makes 1 x 23cm/9inch round or square or 1 x 20cm x 9cm/8inch x 3½inch loaf tin 360g/12oz unsalted butter Number of servings: 16 – 20 (or more, it’s very rich!) 240g/8oz golden syrup 1.Melt the butter, golden syrup, chocolate, cocoa powder, 120g/4oz good quality dark chocolate (you can use milk chocolate if you prefer it!) chocolate powder and vanilla extract in a heavy based pan. 2. Stir well as it is inclined to burn on the bottom of the pan! 60g/2oz good quality unsweetened cocoa powder 3. Do not boil. 4.Once it is a beautiful homogenous silky textured glossy mixture, 60g/2oz drinking chocolate powder remove from heat and mix in the crushed biscuits. 5ml/1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 5.Press mixture into baking tray lined with baking parchment, smooth the top with a palate knife. 700g/1lb7oz crushed digestive biscuits (preferably McVities) 6. Leave to cool, then cover and refrigerate. 7.When firm and completely cold, top with melted chocolate and To Decorate: sprinkle with dried fruit, nuts or confectionary if desired. 8.Once the topping has set cut into slices, wedges or squares – 180g/6oz dark, white or milk chocolate (whichever you prefer!) 9. Store in the refrigerator in an airtight container. Dried fruit, nuts or confectionary to sprinkle on top - optional depending on shape of tin used. 10.Keeps for up to two weeks. Variations: You can substitute 200g/7oz of the crushed biscuits with the same weight of chopped up chocolate bars such as Mars Bars, Twix or Crunchie Bars. The mixture should be left to cool a little before adding the chocolate. You can also replace 240g/8oz of the crushed biscuits with the same weight of dried fruit and nuts, I like to use 60g/2oz each of pistachios, pecans, dried cranberries and soft dried figs. If you are feeling adventurous you can macerate the dried fruit in a little cherry brandy, or other alcohol. 32 Chocolate Biscuit Cake Number of servings: 16 – 20 (or more, it’s very rich!) This is it! This recipe for chocolate biscuit cake is the one that I used when I made it for Prince William and Prince Harry when they were children and this is what Prince William chose to have for his ‘Groom’s cake’ for their wedding! The original recipe came from my mother. Over the years I have modified it; and I don’t think that it can get any better now! I love it for its simplicity and versatility. It can be made in any shape or size, quantities can be reduced or multiplied and the ingredients can easily be substituted to include your own favourite things. HAVE FUN! C.R. Prince Willi am’s Groom’s ca ke was designed, m ade and gifted to him by the biscuit ma nufacturer s McVities. It is said to have been made from 1700 McVit ies biscuits and 17kg o f chocolate ! The ‘royal’ bouquet was constructed of lily of the valley, sweet William and hyacinths with hints of Ivy and myrtle. This was a traditional wired bouquet which means each stem of lily of the valley would have been wired along the stem to the tip of the flowers. Each sweet william would have been wired in small clusters and each florette from a whole hyacinth bloom would have been wired individually. This is a very labour intensive and time consuming job and not so often used these days, the less formal ‘hand - tied’ reigns in popularity. The wedding bouquet formed a classic shape and style which suited Kate’s dress perfectly. Lily-of-the-valley Return of happiness Sweet William Gallantry Hyacinth Constancy of love Ivy Fidelity; marriage; wedded love; friendship; affection At least two bouquets are usually created for royal weddings to ensure they always look their best for the duration of the day. Myrtle Hy an cin ths Sweet w illiam Lily-of-the-valley The emblem of marriage; love. 35