The Jewelry Review

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RECOMMENDS
Winter 2009
the jewelry review
Highligh t s a n d Tr e n d s f r o m the
Internat i o na l J e w e lr y Ci r c ui t
Must-have jewelry designs are no longer confined to one point on
the map or even a handful of destinations. That’s why Elite Traveler
is always on the move to stay in step with the industry’s key players—
from the biggest brands to the smallest ateliers. Inside, you’ll see
their key designs and get a glimpse of what you’ll want to add to your
jewelry collection next.
the classics endure
Unlike the fast paced world of runway fashion, jewelry brands don’t
turn the page on a collection after a season of success. Jewelry trends
can be slow to evolve—and dissolve—and rightfully so. At its best, fine
jewelry becomes a part of one’s life, a touchstone and treasure to return to often, or reserve for special moments. This year was certainly
a time of evolution rather than revolution for jewelry brands big and
small. Our annual “Jewelry Review” profiles the newest selections
from the biggest brands on the landscape and rising stars you’ll want
to know. A sneak peek of the trends you’ll see inside follows:
| Classics Consciousness | Uncertain times have led many to forego splashy new collections. Instead, look for sublty revamped versions
of the tried-and-true pieces that put favorite designers on the map. A
hit of color here, a slight shift there, and the familiar suddenly looks
surprisingly fresh. A little goes a long way.
| Architecture Classes | Maybe it’s a harbinger of the minimalism’s return, but there’s been an uptick in stripped down jewelry designs that emphasize clean lines and under-the-radar ornamentation.
Just remember, minimalisism falls flat without the sharpest construction and best materials.
| New Bohemia | As chance would have it, a hippy chic vibe that’s
been pervasive in runway fashion carries across many jewelry collections, too. Look for layered necklaces and long chandelier earrings in
luxe gems and gold.
| Flower Shows | The power of flowers never fails. From antique
to contemporary, it’s tough to find a collection that didn’t fall back on
can’t miss florals.
| Singular Sensations | For true jewelry cognoscenti, there’s often no greater thrill than have a piece that’s the only one of its kind.
And the segment of jewelry lovers willing to pay astronomical sums for
compelling design and stunning gemstones remains strong. Many of
the most desirable pieces from top brands’ newest high jewelry collections are sold to loyal clients before they can hit boutique floors.
Aaron basha
Aaron Basha built his jewelry brand on compulsively
collectable baby bootie charms in every imaginable
hue and embellishment. The possibilities range
from pieces emblazoned with diamonds to enameled pastels, outnumbering the options you’ll find in
even the swankiest of shoe salons. The empire has
since expanded to emblems of every kind—black diamond frogs, enamel-coated initials, jewel-covered
evil eyes—all united by a sense of whimsy and play.
Lesser known but at least as desirable is Basha’s
Private Collection, high jewelry offerings with a decidedly sophisticated edge that’s worlds away from
everyday baubles. Available exclusively at Aaron
Basha boutiques, the collection consists of megawatt pieces, both newly created and specially sourced
vintage. Rolled out on an ongoing basis, highlights of
the Private Collection include a 18K white gold and
diamond cuff with dancing briolettes ($78,000) and
an elegant orchid brooch that echoes fashion’s infatuation with flowers ($64,000).
| Where to Buy | Aaron Basha jewelry is available
at Aaron Basha in New York. Visit aaronbasha.com.
Corporate Contact: Gordon Bahary,
Phone: (212) 935-1960,
Email: info@aaronbasha.com
adria de haume
Launched in 2000, Adria de Haume’s namesake
collection draws inspiration from ancient cultures
crossed with country club chic. The result? Captivating heirloom pieces that can go anywear. De Haume’s
use of stones, such as aquamarine, pink tourmaline,
green beryl, and fire opal, gives a feminine and intensely colorful quality to her jewelry. Her
infatuation with light is certainly evident in
stones that color, but also in her carefully-placed 18K gold accents and
hand-carved stones.
Vastly disparate influences animate
de Haume’s designs. The Byzantine-derived,
one-of-a-kind Will’s Brooch (right), features
3.34 carats of diamond pavé in a design of 18K
gold with a removable 22mm South Sea pearl. Form
follows function: the brooch can be transformed
into a pendant, and worn with or without the pearl
(price available upon request). In a playful cocktail
ring (below), de Haume splashes carved rock crystal
with platinum and diamond stars, hence its double
entendre of a name: Rock Star Ring ($6,000).
| Where to Buy | Adria de Haume jewelry is available at select Neiman Marcus stores and by special
order. Visit haume.com.
Corporate Contact: Adria de Haume,
Phone: (203) 618-9000,
Email: adria@haume.com
Adriana
Carador
A native of São Paulo, Brazilian designer Adriana
Carador has mastered the blending of playful design and superior craftsmanship with her 18K gold
jewelry. Using semiprecious stones mined by gemologists in her home country, Carador creates bold
pieces influenced by her international travels.
In addition to her intial Bossa Collection, Carador
just released Spring 2009 pieces, featuring jewelry
inspired by trips to Carnavale in Rio de Janeiro,
Vatican City, Bali, Morocco and Russia. The Morocco
cuff is made of thin yellow gold sculpted into an intricate pattern as if traced from tile designs in North
African architecture. A massive 14.2-carat aquamarine surrounded by yellow and pink sapphires set in
yellow gold anchors the cocktail-style Turquia ring
(top, $5,900).
Not to leave out her native land, the Samba earrings
(middle) are 18K yellow gold hoops with gold fringe
and turquoise drops ($2,300). Her Tutti Frutii ring is
a Carmen Miranda incarnation. The yellow gold setting spotlights a ruby, flanked on all sides by colorful citrine, kunzite, pink tourmaline and amethyst.
And her Blossom ring (bottom) is a reinterpretation
of a native Brazilian flower, hand-carved in white
cachalong opal and highlighted with green tsavorite
and diamonds ($3,250).
| Where to Buy | Adriana Carador jewelry is available by appointment. Visit adrianacarador.com.
Corporate Contact: Victoria Flores,
Phone: (212) 689-1073,
Email: victoria.flores@adrianacarador.com
Alex Sepkus
With one glance it’s easy to distinguish an Alex Sepkus design from the rest of the pack. His rounded,
mosaic-like fusion of organic shapes stands apart
for the playfulness that they give to each piece. And
fans report that they discover new details in his jewelry long after first acquiring it.
Individually chosen gemstones and gold play off of
each other. Neither is the focal point, but instead
they are parts of a total design envisioned by Sepkus, who still finishes pieces himself alongside a
team of fewer than 20 craftsmen. Frequently, the
Lithuanian-born designer’s work draws comparisons to painter Gustav Klimt, not only for the curvaceous lines in his jewelry, but also for the sensuous
textures and seductive color choices that inspire the
imagination of anyone who sees it (18K yellow gold
Sticks and Stones earrings with two diamonds and
two oval morganite drops, $3,800; 18K yellow gold
Sea Grass dome ring with nine diamonds and five
purple sapphires, $2,950).
| Where to Buy | Alex Sepkus jewelry is available at
select fine jewelry retailers. Visit alexsepkus.com.
Corporate Contact: Jeffrey D. Feero,
Phone: (212) 391-8466,
Email: info@alexsepkus.com
Alex Soldier
Artisanal workmanship defines Alex Soldier’s jewelry. Every piece he creates bears his signature artistry and precision. Textured metalwork is a salient
characteristic of Soldier’s work—despite our valiant
efforts he wouldn’t reveal how he achieves the rich,
glowing effect—as is an understanding of color and
form. And every piece is crafted entirely by hand in
Soldier’s New York City atelier under his watchful
supervision.
Exceptional one-of-a-kind and limited edition pieces
allow the purest expression of Soldier’s imagination
and virtuosity. The Haute Couture Sunflower Series
pendant necklace (pictured) is an example of his
keen sense of color. Precisely placed to achieve a
subtle degradé effect, the natural colored diamonds
create a sunflower bloom that is stunningly lifelike,
hung from a beaded necklace of tsavorites, Siberian
chrome diopsyde and 18K yellow gold ($75,000).
Soldier’s work has expanded to include sculpture,
too. He’s been commissioned to create unique objets
d’art as award statuettes and for private collections.
Whether in explosive, colorful abstractions or representational works that capture the perfect delicacy
of a single gesture, his creations express profound
vibrancy and clarity.
| Where to Buy | Alex Soldier jewelry is available
at select Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue department stores. Visit alexsoldier.com.
Corporate Contact: Maria Soldier,
Phone: (646) 725-8278,
Email: maria@alexsoldier.com
A.link
For more than 100 years, A. Link has crafted extraordinary diamond jewelry from the finest materials. Founded by Adolph Link after apprenticeships
with Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, the company
remains family owned and a leader among diamond
jewelers. Today, all of A. Link’s collections feature
the company’s 60/60 diamonds, a proprietary cut developed by Link to maximize each stone’s dimension,
weight and reflectivity.
A. Link’s signature design is the diamond opera
necklace, whether in single strands of diamonds
placed end-to-end or strings of diamond studded
motifs placed side-by-side. The Lucia opera necklace (pictured) features 32 carats of diamonds. Elegant and extravagant, the timeless piece is a clear
representation of why A. Link has remained at
the forefront of diamond jewelry design for
decades ($64,000).
The brand’s offerings don’t end with their
staple necklaces; A. Link offers countless variations on endlessly wearable
diamond jewels. Rings from the Lattice
and Silk collections capture the brilliance of
each stone with a seamless fit that embraces
the finger ($5,000-$50,000).
| Where to Buy | A.Link jewelry is available at Neiman Marcus department stores and fine jewelry retailers. Visit alinkandco.com.
Corporate Contact: Douglas Sills,
Phone: (212) 838-5355,
Email: dsills@alinkandco.com
Amrapali
Thirty-year-old Amrapali offers a vast collection of
contemporary fine jewelry ranging from ultratraditional Indian styles to minimalist architectural pieces
to dramatic options that are a deft mix of the two. Its
vast inventory begins with accessible pieces in sterling silver that were its early signature, but Designer
Collection pieces in gold and gemstones are extravagant fancies that demonstrate the extent of the
imagination that resides in its workshops. Modern
pieces sit comfortably alongside Victorian inspired
ones, and it’s fascinating to see the countless ways
Amrapali’s artisans apply colored stones.
Highlights from the brand’s Designer Collection include earthy pieces incorporating forms taken from
nature, including an 18K yellow gold bib necklace of
cascading leaves and scattered diamonds with an
oversized rutilated quartz stone (pictured). The open
metalwork and large-scale stones offer exotic glamour (necklace, $5,000; coordinating ring, $1,800).
| Where to Buy Amrapali jewelry is available at
Amrapali in New York, London, and select cities in
India. Visit amrapalijewels.com.
Corporate Contact: Ravi Jargad,
Phone: (212) 944-0435,
Email: amrapalinyc@gmail.com
Andrea fohrman
A relative newcomer among fine jewelry lines—it
launched in 2004—Andrea Fohrman jewelry excels
at a tough balancing act: infusing Victorian and Art
Deco designs with a contemporary spirit. The collection escapes easy categorization, pairing antiqueinspired settings with vibrant gemstones that capture a modern sensibility—think locket pendants in
a dark, oxidized finish and concentric ring of moonstones or classic diamond earrings with unexpected
turquoise drops.
The ultra-feminine Collette earrings (pictured) in
18K yellow gold, opals and rose cut diamonds with
a warm, honeyed glow is one of the latest incarnations of her unique style. The luminous gemstones
and sleek, stylized petals transcend trend to achieve
true timelessness ($7,590).
| Where to Buy | Andrea Fohrman jewelry is available at Saks Fifth Avenue stores.
Visit andreafohrman.com.
Corporate Contact: Catrinel Ardeus,
Phone: (212) 463-7950,
Email: catrinel.ardeus@museimports.com
Antonini
Far flung destinations ignite the imaginations of
Antonini’s designers. The collections are named
for exotic locales and their designs reflect a trait
of each, as seen through the eyes of the Milanbased design team. Sunny Malibu‘s namesake
collection interprets the light from sky and sea
in beachy blue topaz and diamond, Sahara’s
dunes transform into necklaces and bracelets in
brushed gold, and Brasilia absorbs the influence
of modernist architecture.
One of the its newest launches, Barcelona (pictured), continues to develop a signature style that
juggles the modern and primitive. Highly polished surfaces are entirely contemporary while
the shapes that constitute its rings, pendants
are bracelets are rounded and organic (pendant,
$2,650; bracelet, $21,210; gold ring, $2,360; diamond pavé ring, $8,520).
A recent relaunch of the brand promises new adventures are on the horizon. It will be fascinating
to find out where Antonini will go next.
| Where to Buy | Antonini jewelry is available at
Antonini boutiques and Saks Fifth Avenue department stores. Visit www.antonini.it.
Corporate Contact: Karla Hernandez,
Phone: 39-0-277-129-037,
Email: karla.hernandez@ antonini.it
Ariane zurcher
Fuse primitive art, astrology and seamless construction and you have the recently launched collection of
master jeweler Ariane Zurcher. Crafting in her New
York studio, Zurcher sets richly colored gemstones
and diamonds among 18K gold webs reminiscent of
swirling constellations while pearls and diamonds
suspended from ribbons of brushed gold capture the
romance of Versailles and Venice. While she touches
on exotic motifs, her jewelry heralds a modern femininity designed to move with the flow of the body.
In her Samadhi collection (pictured), Zurcher takes
her jewelry to the Far East, individually lacing together handmade gold petals that showcase gemstones like tanzanite, rose quartz and sapphires.
Each item in the complete collection of bracelets,
rings, necklaces and earrings is an elegant union of
contemporary design (18K brushed gold, tourmaline
cabochon and tanzanite necklace, $27,000).
| Where to Buy | Ariane Zurcher Jewelry is available by private appointment only.
Visit arianezurcher.com.
Corporate Contact: Ariane Zurcher,
Phone: (917) 608-2817,
Email: ariane@arianezurcher.com
Armenta
Jewelry designer Emily Armenta takes inspiration
from a seemingly unlikely source: Spain’s national
poet Federico García Lorca. But once you see her
richly evocative, Spanish-influenced pieces, the connection is clear. Hints of Moorish architecture and
flamenco also play their part in pieces that feel like
recovered medieval treasures. The look echoes the
romanticism of Lorca’s words, the energy of staccato
footwork and the strength of Islamic engineering.
The designer frequently combines multiple materials, including bronze, 18K and 22K yellow gold,
“midnight” oxidized sterling silver, and rose gold in
a single piece. Armenta’s large-scale necklaces with
plaque-sized pendants, cuffs, bangles and swingy
drop earrings possess a sense of symmetry and
scale that projects authority.
Oversized rings, crafted from her fusion of golds
and sterling silver, were Armenta’s early signature
and continue to be the collection’s strongest mainstay (Clockwise from left: Open iris scroll ring with
hematite sapphires and diamonds, $3,570; Oval
ring in green amethyst, $4,390; Oval ring in hematite, $3,900; Lotus ring with rainbow moonstone,
$2,390).
| Where to Buy | Armenta jewelry is available at
Neiman Marcus stores nationwide.
Visit emilyarmenta.com.
Corporate Contact: Gina Belanger,
Phone: (703) 761-1600 ext. 3037,
Email: gina_belanger@neimanmarcus.com
ARUNAShi
With seven generations of jewelers preceding him,
Arun Bohra definitely had ample experience to draw
upon when he entered the family business. Even
though the workmanship is informed by the knohow passed down by those that came before him, his
own creations are totally contemporary. Launched in
2004, his Arunashi line has already developed several signature collections. Arunashi Black is Bohra’s
passion project—oxidized 18K gold gives an edgy,
dramatic frame for diamonds, pearls and colored
gemstones.
curling vines of an 18K gold cuff clutch (pictured)
blossoms in rare spinel and paraiba tourmalines
($86,400). Other favorites are the brand’s new hoop
earrings (pictured) with serpentine lines that are one
part Art Nouveau, one part modern (above,18K gold
earrings with diamonds, $14,400; below, 18K gold
earrings with diamonds, $16,800).
Some of Arunashi’s newest pieces borrow touches
from an untamed garden: Diamond butterflies seem
to alight from fire opal pendant earrings and the
Corporate Contact: Julie Cantwell,
Phone: (213) 291-2391,
Email: julie@arunashi.com
| Where to Buy | Arunashi jewelry is available
at select Neiman Marcus stores and fine jewelry
retailers. Visit arunashi.com.
autore
For some, pearls conjure images of the most
straight-laced jewelry imaginable: prim single
strands, diminutive studs, dainty rings. Jewelry from
Autore disproves those notions by using pearls as
a medium to invent astounding creations alive with
color and movement. Headquartered in Sydney, the
brand frequently riffs on elements from the sea as
inspiration for its designs—an oversized silver baroque pearl morphs into a trailing fishtail of glowing
moonstones, sapphires and tourmalines and a pearl
sautoir can be worn seven different ways, forming a suite of necklace and bracelet combinations.
The technical virtuosity of designer Alessio Boschi
comes from a time-consuming process of trial and
error to achieve the beauty, wearability and fantasy
that his team’s designs require.
A showstopper from one of the brand’s newest collections is the Oceana Atlantis bib necklace (pictured), displaying a cascade of South Sea pearl,
blue sapphire, tsavorite garnet, paraiba tourmaline,
aquamarine and diamond ($495,000). The dramatic
necklace is the apotheosis of Autore’s dynamic approach to jewelry making and casts pearl jewelry in
an entirely new light.
| Where to Buy | Autore jewelry is available at
Neiman Marcus stores and select fine jewelry boutiques. Visit pearlautore.com.
Corporate Contact: Christine Nolan,
Phone: (818) 254-6180,
Email: christine.nolan@autoreusa.com
baccarat
It’s impossible to think of the venerable Baccarat
name without envisioning crystal in all its most
luxurious guises, from exquisite, sculptural chandeliers to a perfectly weighty whiskey tumbler. But
Baccarat’s domain extends beyond objects for the
home with a range of modern jewelry that draws on
more than two centuries of mastery matched with an
sleek, futuristic sensibility.
and color. Deceptively simple settings possess an
architectural quality that is elegant from every angle
and strikes a fine balance between stark and rounded lines. The effect is one part rock star, one part
minimalist and entirely desirable (InsomNight 18K
gold pink Mordore crystal cuff, $11,000; InsomNight
medium crystal ring, $3,400; InsomNight large crystal necklace $11,000).
With its new jewelry collection InsomNight, bold,
oversized crystal in seductive tones — midnight blue,
emerald green, peach-pink and smoky brown—is
paired with finely polished 18K yellow gold or sterling
silver. The streamlined metal surfaces and deeply
faceted stones give an entrancing play of liquid light
| Where to Buy | Baccarat jewelry is available at
Baccarat Boutique in New York. Visit baccarat.com.
Corporate Contact: Royce Berler,
Phone: (212) 826-4100,
Email: madison_aze@baccarat.fr
badgley
mischka
Design house Badgley Mischka has been synonymous with glamorous fashion offerings since opening its doors just over 20 years ago. Hollywood royalty and socials don the pair’s gowns and sportswear
for can’t-fail chic and unflagging ease. When the duo
joined the ranks of fine jewelry designers in early
2008, it seemed an logical expansion of their already
elegant domain.
The designers crossed the threshold into the fine
jewelry category with the ultimate in special occasion pieces—engagement rings. There’s a trove of
options, and all have in common high-carat splashes of diamonds and a feminine, romantic quality,
whether in vintage-inspired or contemporary styles.
Consisting entirely of semi-mount rings, the line allows brides-to-be to have the solitaire of their choosing, be it an inherited gemstone or a newly selected
treasure.
Branching out beyond bridal, plans are in the works
for a complete fine jewelry collection that will be a
beautiful new extension of Badgley Mischka’s fashion empire (Engagement rings, $1,800-$5,000
—solitaires sold separately).
| Where to Buy | Badgley Mischka jewelry
is available at Badgley Mischka boutiques.
Visit badgleymischka.com.
Contact: Jacqueline Sassoon,
Phone: (310) 248-3750,
Email: badgleymischkabh@aol.com
beaudry
If you aren’t aware that diamonds come in
a spectrum of almost-edible candy colors,
Michael Beaudry would like to have a word
with you. The second generation master diamond cutter is passionate about the rare
beauties and has incorporated many into
his newest high jewelry pieces.
Long known for finely
wrought,
romantic jewelry with a
cult of fanatic
collec tors,
Beaudr y
designs each
piece personally.
Some of his latest exude
in-the-know luxury like delicate stackable yellow or pink diamond
rings set in coordinating gold. Hard-tofind colors—chartreuse, green, orange—
dot the edges of face-framing pendant earrings
that transfix diamond cognoscenti. For those that
can’t settle on a favorite hue, there’s the Platinum
Couture Monaco Pastelle necklace (pictured) in
colored and white diamonds accented by rose and
yellow gold (price upon request). With more than
20 carats and a collage of fancy cuts, delicate filigree and millegrain work, the necklace is a study
in Beaudry’s signature style.
| Where to Buy | Beaudry jewelry is available at
Beaudry Beverly Hills and select fine jewelry
retailers. Visit michaelbeaudry.com.
Corporate Contact: Stephen Moore,
Phone: (213) 623-5025 x 111,
Email: stephen@michaelbeaudry.com.
bernard passman
A retired CEO might not fit the typical profile of a
fledgling designer, but when Bernard Passman
moved to Grand Cayman and discovered the allure of
the local black coral he bucked the trend. The rest is
history, written in the bracelets, pendants and earrings that are his legacy.
Bernard Passman jewelry features intricate carvings in black coral and 18K gold accents. To honor
the commitment of its founder to preserving endangered live coral, the company produces new pieces
using only fragments from dead or broken black
coral branches, as Passman did when he created
each design himself. The newest creations are spectacular, wearable works of art that complement the
company’s archive of large sculptures and carvings.
Geometry takes center stage among the jewelry
designs. The strong lines and alternating blocks of
the “gemstone” give the unique quality of the black
coral a contemporary twist worthy only of a such a
rare material. Among the pendants are more unusual shapes like “tip of the iceberg,” “whale’s tale,”
and “knight with diamonds”—playful interpretations
with strict lines and jarring angles.
From the One-of-a-Kind collection, the snake-like,
hand-carved, Cobra diamond necklace (above right)
showcases 500 round brilliant diamonds, totaling
11 carats, in a snaking showcase of the Caribbean
treasure ($65,000). Similarly, the hand-carved Avant
Garde bangle (above left) fuses black and Alaskan
coral in an exotic display of texture, color, and, of
course, eight carats of pavé diamonds ($55,000).
| Where to Buy | Bernard Passman jewelry is
available at Bernard Passman in Beverly Hills. Visit
passman.com.
Corporate Contact: Susan DeGeorge,
Phone: (310) 246-5150,
Email: sdegeorge@passman.com
bochic
As its name suggests, Bochic jewelry embodies a worldly,
bohemian sensibility with an elegance that is miles away from the
look of devil-may-care flower children. Favored by
celebrity darlings like Angelina Jolie and Halle Berry
for distinctive, versatile pieces that can go from resort to red carpet without missing a beat, the rich
hippie baubles vibrate with gems in electric colors
and exuberant patterns that fuse influences from
across the globe.
One of the brand’s signatures is its chunky bangles
in Bakelite topped with major doses of precious and
semi-precious stones. The styles are tweaked from
season to season and can be worn by the armful or
as stand-alone statement pieces (White bakelite cuff
with diamonds, $13,000; Black bakelite cuff with
carved turquoise, pearls and diamonds, $11,500;
Jade and diamond earrings, $21,000; Bakelite bangle with diamonds, rubies and pearl lions, $22,500).
| Where to Buy | Bochic jewelry is available at Bochic in New York. Visit bochic.com.
Corporate Contact: Renata Marcus,
Phone (212) 659-7743,
Email: renata@bochic.com
boucheron
The first jeweler to open on illustrious Place
Vendôme, the epicenter of French jewelry, Boucheron has been a favorite of royals, femme fatales and
scene sirens seeking something extraordinary. For
each that discovers Boucheron, the allure is the
same: an appreciation of its unique artistry and
sharp sense of drama.
To celebrate its recent 150th anniversary, the house
unveiled a collection of one-of-a-kind pieces that
reference its most prominent themes and transcend
mere beauty to capture something more complex.
One of the brand’s central emblems, the serpent, appears in several iterations—one coiled into a choker
of white gold and pavé diamonds and another inlaid
with sapphire and turquoise—each, at once sensuous, inviting and a touch sinister. The Queen of the
Night necklace, created in collaboration with indie
jewelry designer Shaun Leane, is another example
of the potent mix of beauty and mystery. Dark ruby
blossoms emerge from stems in blackened gold,
sapphire and brown diamonds, and just beyond its
petals lie bejeweled thorns that are as dazzling as
they are dangerous. In the world of Boucheron, jewelry is intended to be powerful fodder for the senses
and the psyche.
Of course, the brand has a lighter side, too. Perennial favorite collection Extravagant Bestiary (pictured)
lavishes special attention on a menagerie of usually
humble creatures like chameleons, frogs and turtles
by heaping them with diamonds, gold and colored
gemstones (top to bottom: Escargot ring, $32,000;
Turtle ring $13,600; Camérisson ring $24,000).
| Where to Buy | Boucheron jewelry is available at
Boucheron in San Francisco. Visit boucheron.com.
Contact: Ivan Bekichev,
Phone (415) 362-6020,
Email: ivan.bekichev@us.boucheron.com
breguet
The Breguet name is the gold standard
in watchmaking, synonymous with a history of invention. Its list of contributions to
the craft include the first self-winding watch and
guilloché dial, plus a range of features that bear
the Breguet name to this day. When it comes to
jewelry design, it is no less inventive or revered.
Beyond its core collections of glamorous, wearable pieces in precious gemstones and pearls, its
high jewelry sets the pace for modern, price-isno-object imagination.
With the Le Temple de l’Amour collection, Breguet
demonstrates the extent of its jewelry making prowess. Named for the structure that ill-fated queen
Marie Antoinette commissioned to celebrate King
Louis XVI, the suite of jewelry (above)
glistens with a constellation of more than
65 carats of nearly flawless cushion-shape and
brilliant-cut diamonds. The romantic, ultra feminine pieces possess a seductive beauty that Marie
Antoinette—an early Breguet client herself—would
have surely appreciated (earrings, $193,000; ring,
$92,300; necklace, $820,200).
| Where to Buy | Breguet jewelry is available at
Breguet boutiques in New York and Los Angeles. Visit
breguet.com.
Corporate Contact: Jean-Marc Bories,
Phone: (201) 271-4680,
Email: jean-marc.bories@swatchgroup.com
brumani
Brazil is one of the world’s leading sources of colored gemstones, and São Paulo-based Brumani
takes full advantage of proximity to the wealth of
resources in its backyard. A dizzying collage of options from sweet, watery pastels (blue topaz, rose
de Paris)—to darker, seductive hues (smoky quartz,
pink tourmaline) animate every collection, whether
in a wide bracelet composed of lozenge-sized topaz
stones or chandelier earrings featuring delicately
carved rosettes.
The array of inspirations among its collections is
as varied as the number of stones and colors in its
arsenal. Renaissance architecture and ornamentation has been a strong influence, reflected in
scrolling, shapely lines and exuberant floral
shapes. A recent standout is the Candy
Rosé collection (pictured), its streamlined designs suggest movement and
grace. Its open forms lend a modern
lightness that embraces the neckline with comfortable, flexible ease.
Warmth and color make the pieces easily wearable
by day while the extra dose of glamour and sparkle
provided by diamond accents and jumbo gemstones
make an easy transition to evening (bracelet, $7,155;
ring, $5,082).
| Where to Buy | Brumani jewelry is available at
select Saks Fifth Avenue stores. Visit brumani.com.
Corporate Contact: Chantal Caro Forte,
Phone: 55-11-3083-0507,
Email: chantal@brumani.com
bulgari
It’s little wonder that art and aesthetics of classical
civilization informs the strong, distinctive look of
Bulgari jewels. Steeped in the traditions of silversmithing for generations, its Greek founding family
immigrated to Rome at the end of the 19th century.
The genius of Bulgari’s jewelry is its capacity to
take those fundamental influences as a starting point to produce stunning jewelry with an
entirely modern energy.
Masterful gemstone selection and an unparalleled skill at combining gemstones
is the Bulgari calling card. A prime example is the one-of-a-kind,18K gold
High Jewelry Necklace (pictured)
with cabochon tourmalines and fancy shaped diamonds (price available
upon request). Using colored stones
and diamonds in a variety of cuts,
the piece is a luxe patchwork of intense color that maintains a profound
sense of symetry and balance.
Set to celebrate its 125th anniversary in
2009, Bulgari will surely unveil a trove of
spectacular new offerings that touch on its
trailblazing heritage and chart a brilliant new
course. Stay tuned.
| Where to Buy | Bulgari jewelry is available at its
boutiques worldwide. Visit bulgari.com.
Corporate Contact: Kamal Abbasi,
Phone: (212) 315-9000,
Email: kamal.abbasi@bulgari.com
carla amorim
Brazilian native Carla Amorim gives a South American twist on modern gold jewelry with bold cocktail
rings, enormous pendants, and delicate drop earrings. Born in Brasilia, Amorim draws inspiration
from the architecture of her hometown and the
nature of the Amazon. She experiments with different finishes to her 18K yellow gold pieces to challenge her limits. Her Orquidea earrings (above) and
matching Orchidea rings (below) showcase her love
of nature. Part of her new Florada collection, which
honors the beauty of flowers, they are her interpretation of a high-quality orchid native to Brazil (earrings, $3,400; ring, $1,500). While these feature thick
yellow gold, her delicate Narciso pendants have a
more petite quality, especially with the addition of
either turquoise or coral to represent the stigma of
the flower.
Her use of nature is clear but so is her love of engineering and geometry, evident in several of her
pieces. Her Bola Composição necklace dangles a
massive composite of polished yellow gold spheres,
wrapped so tightly together they seemingly represent the energy of the universe. Likewise, her Correnteza earrings, with a more cultural vibe, juxtapose
strands of flat-finish yellow gold and a metallic twist
of polished yellow gold in a circular pattern reminiscient of a primitive sun drawing.
| Where to Buy | Carla Amorim jewelry is available
at select Neiman Marcus stores and fine jewelry retailers. Visit carlaamorim.com.br.
Corporate Contact: Rosana Warner,
Phone: (312) 305-6476,
Email: rosana.warner@carlaamorim.com.br
Carrera y
Carrera
Spain and its vibrant, baroque spirit inhabits every
aspect of the luxe, ultra-feminine jewelry from Carrera y Carrera. The brand’s roots in the culture run
deep: With more than a century of experience as
goldsmiths, its founding family has long been one
of Spain’s most esteemed jewelry producers, even
serving the royal court. Unsurpassed quality and signature designs that radiate chic have kept Carrera y
Carrera as relevant as ever.
The new Aqua Collection (pictured) highlights elements seen in many of the brand’s designs, including the curvaceous pattern, contrasting polished
and matte gold, and textured surfaces. Based on
the iconic ring of the same name that launched in
2005, the nine pieces reimagine its paisleys within
a light, open framework. Aqua embodies Carrera y
Carrera’s fine balance of the contemporary and classic (18K yellow gold Maxi Aqua pendant, $5,600; 18K
yellow gold Aqua ring, $2,600; 18K yellow gold Mini
Aqua earrings, $6,100).
| Where to Buy | Carrera y Carrera jewelry is available at Cellini in New York and Neiman Marcus department stores. Visit carreraycarrera.com.
Corporate Contact: Connie Chi,
Phone: (212) 753-8877,
Email: cchi@us.lladro.com
cartier
An icon among icons, Cartier represents the
height of glamour, imagination and seductive
beauty. Its origins date to mid-19th century
Paris, where Louis-Francois Cartier took the
reins of his own jewelry workshop. In subsequent
generations, the Cartier empire expanded exponentially and internationally, while becoming an
innovator both in terms of technical achievement
and artistry—it was one of the early exponents of
Art Deco design.
Key moments in its history include the sale of the
Hope diamond to socialite Evalyn Walsh McLean and
trading a pearl necklace with millionairess Maisie
Plant in 1917, in exchange for the Fifth Avenue mansion Cartier still occupies in New York City. Plus,
the house possesses an uncanny capacity to develop collections that become instant classics: the
clean, classic Tank watch, the Trinity collection of
interlocking gold bands, and the cheekily possessive
LOVE bracelet with its screw closure are just a
few of Cartier’s undeniable emblems.
With Inde Mysterieuse, one of its newest introductions, Cartier goes to India for inspiration. Without
being slavishly literal, it borrows elements from
India’s artistic tradition and passes them through a
prism that is distinctly Cartier—paisley motifs are
rendered in white, bronze and yellow diamonds,
carved stones reference creations commisioned
by maharadjahs, tigers are emblazoned with gemstones, and a platinum five-strand diamond necklace (pictured) hints at jewelry worn by Jaipur aristocracy (price availale upon request).
| Where to Buy | Cartier jewelry is available at
Cartier boutiques. Visit cartier.com.
Corporate Contact: John Evatz,
Phone: (212) 446-3459
casato
Having found a winning formula, Casato knows
to play to its strengths, even as it develops new
designs. The brand first made a name for itself
with its range of outsize cocktail rings in tantalizing colored gemstones and 18K gold. Named Venus Acqua, the runaway success of the collection
prompted Casato to develop new variations on a
smash hit.
One of those is Venus Chic (pictured). It turns
up the wattage with gemstones in blazing color
covering nearly the whole surface of the rings.
Pear-shaped stones—citrine, amethyst, blue topaz —large enough to stand alone as attentiongrabbing gems have been paired with pave stones
in a contrasting hues (rings, from $3,626). Hardly
understated, the Venus Chic collection embraces
the joys of outrageous color.
Based on the success of its rings, Casato is making a move to cultivate a broader line of jewelry
offerings. With the Acqua collection, Casato relies
on its expertise in colored gems. Chandelier earrings, rings and bracelets in girlish pastels and
sunny brights are a elegantly restrained counterpoint to the extraverted Venus collection.
| Where to Buy | Casato jewelry is available at
select fine jewelry retailers, including XIV Karats in
Beverly Hills. Visit www.casatogioielli.com.
Corporate Contact: Chiara Tonin,
Phone: 39-0-636-001-330,
Email: chiara@casatogioielli.com
cassis
Take diamond pavé and 18K gold to the next level.
Manhattan-based line, Cassis, has pavé-everything,
from diamond dot dog tag necklaces to South Sea
cultured pearl bracelets. Every Cassis piece is done
in 18K gold, whether that’s white, yellow, or rose,
and often incorporates vivid gemstones like onyx
and tiger’s eye. The Jelly rings, an absolute favorite, have jelly-belly colored semiprecious carbochon
stones, flanked by diamonds and set into a thick yellow gold band. But it’s the newest pieces that really
shimmer.
The most recent launch, Retro Chic, features a bold
and sexy collection of heart pendants, stackable cuff
bracelets, easy-to-layer bangles, and diamond-studded, Gothic-inspired crosses. Sticking to feminine
hues—pastels, of course—Cassis’ high-end pieces
are lady-like yet powerful. Just take the Killer Platform Rings (right). Done in textured 18K rose, yellow
or white gold, the rings define ‘70s glamour (price
upon request). The only way to complement rings
like these is the double-sided diamond pavé drop
earrings (right), done in matching textured golds
(price upon request). A Disco date must be planned.
| Where to Buy | Cassis is available at select fine
jewelry retailers. Visit cassisjewels.com.
Corporate Contact: Elizabeth Sahakyan,
Phone: (212) 302-9441,
Email: lizatcassis@aol.com
Cathy
Waterman
Cathy Waterman doesn’t just love history. She turns
it into jewelry. Her 17-year old collection began with
medieval-inspired designs taken from her knowledge of early Church architecture. The interwoven
traceries and mixture of triangular and circular
forms of Byzantine buildings gave way for chiseled,
lace-like details on thin metal cuffs and pentagonal precious stones displayed in the gold netting of
chandelier earrings.
Her attention to detail and intricate use of diamonds
in her 22K gold Medallion diamond cuff (middle)
recalls the high decoration era of Byzantium (price
upon request) and her platinum Sabrina earrings
(top) give a kick of color among the muted gold and
pavé diamonds (price upon request). The result is a
ladylike piece of jewelry laden with meaning.
Her delicate floral motifs and focus on geometry
have led to her recently launched Color of Dreams
line, a collection of platinum and diamond vines
reminiscent of the gardens surrounding her beloved
medieval buildings. Using intense pavé settings, the
collection features six-petaled flowers and leaves,
highlighted with stones and natural pearls. The intwined vegetation offers a stretch from her structural setting yet maintains her ornate aesthetic and
superior craftsmanship (bottom: Platinum and rosecut diamond Oak Leaf earrings, price upon request).
| Where to Buy | Cathy Waterman Fine Jewelry
is available at Barneys New York in Manhattan and
Beverly Hills. Visit cathywaterman.com.
Corporate Contact: Jennifer Wasser,
Phone: (310) 777-5770,
Email: jenniferlwasser@earthlink.net
chanel fine jewelry
Coco Chanel made her name with chic, simple
sportwear that defied the highly adorned, corseted
fashions created by her contemporaries, but she
didn’t neglect the need to accessorize her streamlined little black dresses and tweed jackets with
standout jewelry. Chanel launched costume jewelry in 1924, and a collection of precious jewels in
diamonds twelve years later. After decades of halted
production, the brand relaunched its fine jewelry line
fifteen years ago and has had immense success with
Chanel-philes eager to add to their collections.
Clearly the brand’s archives offer up a wealth of symbols that are signature Chanel and many figure in the
fine jewelry collection prominently. The star was the
original motif used in its very first fine jewelry and it
continues to appear, as do ripe camelia blossoms.
And just like the original collection, diamonds still
take center stage but that stone has been joined by
pearls (the gumball-sized South Sea variety) and, in
a few cases, colored gemstones.
Always sublimely feminine with a strong emphasis
on movement and sensuous lines, some of Chanel
Fine Jewelry’s newest pieces express continuity
with its legacy but always with a new spin. One line
features a supersized camelia flower composed of
an intersecting network of strands of white gold set
with black and white diamonds, so that it takes the
form of bejeweled textile. And the San Marco collection (pictured) in 18K white gold diamonds, sapphires
and emeralds is both substantial and airy, its open
lines and splash of colorful gems take cues from
exuberant Venetian architecture (cuff, $550,000).
| Where to Buy | Chanel Fine Jewelry is available
at Chanel Fine Jewelry Boutiques. Visit chanel.com.
Corporate Contact: John Maitino,
Phone: (212) 535-5828,
Email: john.maitino@chanelusa.com
charles krypell
A master with pastel-hued stones, Charles Krypell
has created wearable, colorful, and sculptural jewelry for more than 30 years. Following a degree in art
from the Pratt Institute in New York, Krypell began to
design jewelry as a more immediate way to realize
his desire to be a sculptor. Turns out jewelry was a
pretty good gig. The pieces each display a delicate
balance of traditional and modern aesthetics, allowing the jewelry to be worn for generations, just as a
sculpture can stand the test of time.
And truly stunning are the Charles Krypell pastels.
His Precious Pastels collection features 18K gold
and platinum settings with natural white, pink,
yellow and blue diamonds. Similarly, the Pastels
collection makes use of semiprecious stones like
aquamarine, peridot, and green tourmaline in bright
and conventional pieces. His pieces are sure to be
the heirlooms of the future (Peridot and citring ring,
$11,000; Morganite pink sapphire ring, $9,064; Blue
topaz and peridot ring, $7,788).
What allows Krypell jewelry to hit the contemporary
vibe are the interesting ways in which he wraps the
metals around the stones. Whether it’s a diamond
pavé wrap or a central stone elevated on a plateau
of gemstones, he makes not just the stone, but the
setting the highlight of the piece. Particularly fascinating are the reversible pendants in his Pastels collection. Each pendant offers the wearer a choice of
two looks and the sense of versatility and movement
relevant to modern life.
| Where to Buy | Charles Krypell jewelry is available at fine jewelry retailers.
Visit charleskrypell.com.
Corporate Contact: Brian Krypell,
Phone: (212) 752-3313,
Email: brian@charleskrypell.com
charriol
Celebrating their 25th anniversary in 2008, Charriol
has come a long way since its launch as a watchmaker. While still a leader in timepiece production,
the family-run company has excelled in handcrafted,
novel jewelry design. Inspired by the chains and
adornments of ancient Celtic civilizations, Charriol reinterpreted its signature cable last year in the
Celtique line, a collection of bronze metal cabling
with rose gold and diamond accents.
Now, in honor of the anniversary, Charriol has introduced an innovative form of its cable and Celtique
designs. They fused femininity with the simplicity of
geometry in a classic link of pavé diamonds, toggle
clasps and unique blend of rose and yellow gold. The
23-piece collection is rooted in the idea of movement
and fluidity, echoing the hustle of daily life in the
calming connection of solid shapes and metallics.
The Celtique bracelet (right) features the gold blend,
developed specifically to complement the bronze
tones of the cable. Set with .35 carats of diamonds,
the hue of the gold blend appealingly contrasts the
stark diamonds and dark weave ($2,495). The Celtique earrings (left) continue the link motif in an elegant drop. The combination of sizes and shapes
gives character and depth to a such a modest concept ($3,595).
| Where to Buy | Charriol jewelry is available at
Charriol in Las Vegas and Newport Beach, Neiman
Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Nordstrom, and select
fine jewelry retailers. Visit charriolusa.com.
Corporate Contact: Mark Gavranovic,
Phone: (949) 720-9300,
Email: mg@alor.com
chopard
The Scheufele family has been ensconced in
the watch and jewelry business for over a century, crafting pieces for international clients
from almost the beginning. Acquired by the
Scheufeles in the 1960s, the Chopard brand
is still independently owned—its business
and creative decisions are directed by its own
management rather than a distant parent
company. That unique quality translates into
the creation of sublimely idiosyncratic jewelry
with an emphasis on superior stones and a
sense of movement and play.
One of Chopard’s early signature collections, Happy Diamonds, highlights that approach. Encased under crystal, gold-edged
diamonds float freely as the jewelry or
watch wearer moves. The stones reflect
light as they travel and possess a free
spirit that can’t help but inspire feelings
of, well, happiness. From elegant watches
that are suitable for black tie to large
scale pendants that can be worn with a
bikini, Happy Diamonds can go anywear.
Chopard’s high jewelry uses serious gemstones and workmanship, but a joyful spirit
still prevails. Its aptly named Red Carpet collection is a favorite of leading ladies and virtually
anyone with a price-is-no-object jewelry budget
(Red Carpet Collection multi-gem and diamond
necklace with pink opal beads and colored
briolette sapphires, $127,260). Also, fresh from
their workshops is the La Vie En Bleu collection
that focuses on gemstones in every blue tone.
Rare stones, including Paraiba tourmalines, and
a jumbo 160-carat sapphire will make feeling blue
an entirely desirable state.
| Where to Buy | Chopard jewelry is available at
Chopard boutiques worldwide.
Visit chopard.com.
Corporate Contact: Catherine Bove,
Phone: (212) 223-2304,
Email: cbove@chopard.com
christian tse
Christian Tse takes the potential of jewelry materials
to their furthest extremes. Case in point: His breakout
collection launched nearly a decade ago. Consisting
of ultra-fluid necklaces, earrings and bracelets in a
gossamer-light platinum or gold mesh, its technical
virtuosity was rewarded with a 2000 Couture award.
Tse applies the metalwork to pieces with names like
Fusili, Sunburst and Jellyfish for the forms the finished products resemble. No matter the shape they
take, the designer is maniacally focused on making
them easy to wear.
In 2008, Tse created his first watch, the Prismatic
timepiece, which does double duty as a jeweled
bracelet. In fact, no one but the owner may know
it’s actually a watch at all. Only when the crown is
pressed does a red, digital LED display the time
through the jewel-covered dial. Available on straps
of leather or exotic skins in a universe of colors, the
dials of the watches come in solid colors as well as
motifs that include the Union Jack, tortoise shell
or florals.
Another signature from Tse is expert use of colored
diamonds. The fourth generation jeweler comes
from a family whose principal business is wedding
jewelry. Tse’s rings in rare fancy colored stones
(pictured) aren’t expressly for engagement, but are
the perfect fit for bold brides (18K white gold fancy
intense purplish pink radiant cut diamond ring,
$139,000; 18K yellow gold fancy yellow diamond
ring, $420,000; 18K white gold olive green diamond
ring, $1,650,000).
| Where to Buy | Christian Tse jewelry is available
at select fine jewelry retailers.
Visit christiantse.com.
Corporate Contact: Victoria Tse,
Phone: (626) 577-9288,
Email: victoria@christiantse.com
damiani
For its start more than 80 years ago, Damiani’s
renown masterful goldsmith made it a jewelry
house of choice for aristocracy commisioning fine
jewelry. The tradition continues today: Hollywood
royalty make Damiani a go-to destination for special occasions like the Academy Awards. Now one
of the world’s leading jewelry brands, Damiani’s
reach offers seamlessly crafted jewelry in gold
and gemstones that bring a dose of chic to any
moment you can imagine.
Damiani’s signature look is modern and luxurious. Its sleek lines are seen in the overlapping
threads of pavé diamonds from the pieces in the
Chignon collection. In Ruban, exceptionally white
diamonds highlight the refined cutaways of an
eternity knot. The purity of its design reveals the
perfection of Damiani’s craftsmanship and materials. Even a diamond pendant for daily wear gets
a splash of special treatment. The Twister collection pendant (pictured) boasts a central ring of
rotating diamonds ($2,490).
| Where to Buy | Damiani jewelry is available at
30 Damiani boutiques worldwide and select fine
jewelry retailers. Visit damiani.it.
Corporate Contact: Kari Allen,
Phone: (212) 760-2790,
Email: allen@damianiusa.com
daniel k
Decade-old Daniel K has expanded its reach significantly in a short time. First dedicated to producing
a finely-edited collection of classic and bridal rings,
especially Asscher-cut diamonds set in platinum, the
offerings were soon joined by earrings, line bracelets and necklaces. As the range grew it maintained
the trait of using superior diamonds cut to achieve
exceptional brillance.
With the launch of Pret a Porter, Daniel K multiplies
the opportunities to wear its jewelry every day. The
collection has a fashionable, casual perspective with
looks that include looping, interlocking pendants,
hoop earrings, and stackable rings, all decked in
pavé stones. And the collection brings a fresh ele-
ment of color to Daniel K’s repetoire with sapphire
rings and slim bangles in pastels and bright primary
colors. It also complements the Couture Collection
Flower rings (pictured), a selection of high-impact
Daniel K Asscher-cut diamonds flanked by colored
diamonds (price upon request).
| Where to Buy | Daniel K jewelry is available at
Daniel K in New York and select fine jewelry retailers. Visit danielk.net.
Corporate Contact: Laura Offenhauer,
Phone: (646) 278-7215,
Email: laura@danielk.net
david morris
Maximizing the beauty of its gemstones, first and
foremost, is the driving force that motivates the creative team at Davis Morris—trends are beside the
point. Often, the stones actually dictate design—an
exceptional stone gets honored treatment as a oneof-a-kind creation that will truly bring it to life.
Anyone in the market for important pieces, in diamonds or precious colored stones, will find countless ways to fulfill their wishes at one of David Morris’ four salons. And if a piece doesn’t currently exist
that perfectly fits the bill, its ultra-knowledgable
jewelers collaborate with clients to create custom
designs.
Beyond its classic, jewel-intensive pieces, recent
new collections include Amira, which mined Indian
influences for inspiration and uses exquisite rose
cut stones, and Flora, which plays with feminine florals (Diamond and Colombian emerald earrings and
necklace, price available upon request)
| Where to Buy | David Morris jewelry is available
at David Morris boutiques. Visit davidmorris.com.
Corporate Contact: Lori Kolfenbach,
Phone: (561) 655-3401,
Email: lori@davidmorris.com
david webb
David Webb’s bold, fun-loving jewelry stands in a
league all its own. With a free-wheeling appreciation for daring jewelry that wants to be noticed, the
60-year-old brand continues on its unique course,
creating statement pieces in weighty gold, stunning
enamel and a menagerie of exotic animal designs.
Still run by founding chairwoman Nina Silberstein,
it’s also a rare example of a major, entirely family
run jewelry house.
With such a defined and revered legacy, David Webb
doesn’t attempt to reinvent the wheel with countless
launches of new collections. Its jewelry is so detailed and labor-intersive to produce that availability
is highly limited. Current creative director Sharon
Silberstein focuses on tweaking existing themes,
reintroducing archival designs, and developing extravagent one-off pieces based on acquisitions of
exception gemstones.
The formula seems to be working. The workshop
above the Madison Avenue boutique is as busy as
ever (18K yellow gold and emerald dragon cuff,
$27,300).
| Where to Buy | David Webb jewelry is available at
the David Webb boutiques in New York and Beverly
Hills. Visit davidwebb.com.
Corporate Contact: Roy Fischer,
Phone: (212) 421-3030,
Email: royf@davidwebb.com
david yurman
David Yurman’s first creative career was sculptor,
but then came an offhand request from his wife Sybil
to transform one of his works into a belt buckle.
At that moment, the seed was planted for a jewelry firm that now boasts an international reach
for its coveted jewelry and timepieces. The
signature David Yurman cable detail reads
as instant assurance of well made jewelry
with enduring, classic design.
Yurman jewelry continues to expand its
supply of limited edition and one-of-akind offerings to keep pace with demand
from inveterate collectors for pieces
that are theirs alone. Chic, hard-toget materials, including lengths of
luminous pearls, get the David Yurman
touch in quiet details that speak only to
those in the know—in this case, gold
and champage citrine stations along its
the strand (Limited Edition Tahitian Grey
Pearl Necklace with 18K gold and champagne citrine jewel bead clasp, price available upon request).
| Where to Buy | David Yurman jewelry is
available at David Yurman Beverly Hills, New
York and Chicago. Visit davidyurman.com.
Corporate Contact: Laurie Adorno,
Phone: (212) 752-4255
de grisogono
De Grisogono founder Fawaz Gruosi’s experience as
a jeweler included decades spent working for some
of the biggest, most illustrious names in the business. So when he set out to establish his own brand,
it surprised no one when it became a major success
with a singular approach to design.
A maverick with a passion for underappreciated
stones, Gruosi was one of the first jewelers to use
black diamonds, creating a whole collection with the
stone in 1996. Gruosi’s love for gemstones is readily
apparent to this day in the audacious color choices
of de Grisogono pieces. A new collection of cocktail
rings in supersized proportions and spiked with a
rainbow of cabochon and pavé gemstones speaks
volumes for its creator’s desire to make the
most of a bounty of colored stones at his disposal
(rose gold ring with brown diamond, tourmaline,
amethyst, peridot, blue topaz and orange garnet,
$38,900). Earrings with vining lines in an unexpected
mix of pavé brown diamonds and pink sapphires that
snake around pink coral is just one example among
many of masterful color mixes in de Grisogono’s
high jewelry, too ($167,000).
| Where to Buy | De Griscogono jewelry is available at De Grisogono in New York.
Visit degrisogono.com.
Corporate Contact: Janet Simonian,
Phone: (212) 439-4220,
Email: janet.simonian@degrisogono.com
di modolo
In less than a decade, Di Modolo jewelry has established a firm design approach that’s grounded in the
worlds of art and technology. The dual influences of
both disciplines are apparent in the output of designer Dino Di Modolo, whose creations are cooly modern
yet possess sensuous movement and personality.
The brand has given its top selling Triadra collection
an exciting update with new pieces that play on the
signature link. A Triadra Flora ring has at its center three of the originial Triadra links with pearls
embedded inside and surrounded by lush petals in
cherry and white diamonds ($9,900). Other new Triadra pieces include earrings, rings, and chains that
transform the design by extending the size of the
link or using just one element of it (18K white gold
Triadra flat trillion necklace with pavé diamonds,
mother of pearl and rubilite, $39,500).
Other big news from the brand came in the form of
a drive to develop the top tier of its collection with
brilliant new Haute Couture pieces. The central focus for all the Haute Couture pieces is extraordinary diamonds, both white and colored. The designs
make the underlying metal dissappear so that only
the diamonds shine through.
| Where To Buy | Di Modolo jewelry is available at
Di Modolo boutiques and select fine jewelry retailers. Visit dimodolo.com.
Corporate Contact: Noreen MacDonald,
Phone: (212) 644-6564,
Email: info@dimodolo.com
Diamond
in the
rough
Like fingerprints and snowflakes, no two rough diamonds are the same, a fact that the masterminds
behind Diamond in the Rough think is cause for celebration. Rather than cutting and polishing the diamonds used in its designs, the stones appear in the
jewelry as they do in nature with all their ravishing,
unique color and texture intact.
The early Champagne Bubbles collection features
relatively colorless stones with a low-key, warm
radiance while the latest collection, Astra, takes
a colorful new turn. The Astra collection earrings
dazzle in the sort of intense hues many don’t expect
from diamond jewelry. And just because the stones
are rough doesn’t mean they’re easy to come by. To
acquire quality rough stones can be just as challenging as obtaining ones for cutting. Since Diamond
in the Rough doesn’t manipulate its stones, they’ll
only except ones that are jewelry-appropriate as is.
Happily rough around the edges, the final product is
well worth the effort (Platinum Champagne Bubbles
bracelet with 96.63 carats of rough diamonds; 18K
white gold Astra chandelier earrings with 45.95 carats of rough diamonds, both, price upon request).
| Where to Buy | Diamond in the Rough jewelry is
available at Bergdorf Goodman in New York, select
Neiman Marcus department stores, and select fine
jewelry retailers. Visit diamondintherough.com.
Corporate Contact: Elizabeth Jensen,
Phone: (212) 710-1070,
Email: info@diamondintherough.com
Diamonds by
Designing duo Vicki Beamon and
Karen Erickson broke into the
world of jewelry with a range of
costume jewelry that barreled
into the consciousness of the
fashion world during the mid1980s. Later the pair launched
Diamonds by Erickson
Beamon, bringing two decades of experience from
their original collaboration
to the world of fine jewelry.
The early collections had a distinct
vintage influence—romantic, scrolling
lines and retro-inspired rose cut stones
were key. Taking a new direction, the brand
hit a strong stride with the Rock collec-
Erickson Beamon
tion (pictured) that takes a edgy, downtown approach
to diamond jewelry. Inspired by the idea of talismanic
stones and their power to contain the heart’s desires, the diamond-covered white gold pebbles hang
in Gothic-inspired chain mail webs of white gold. The
moody, rockstar-worthy pieces prove that fine jewelry doesn’t have to feel precious (ring, necklace,
and earrings, all, price upon request).
| Where to Buy | Diamonds by Erickson Beamon jewelry is available at Erickson Beamon
in London and select fine jewelry retailers.
Visit ericksonbeamon.com.
Corporate Contact: Monique Erickson,
Phone: (646) 619-6817,
Email: monique@showroomseven.com
Donald huber
Combine uptown glamour with modern, whimsical designs and you have the collections of Donald
Huber. After a brief encounter with a Brazilian stone
dealer at age 12, he fell in love with gemstones, later
enrolling and graduating from New York’s prestigious Parson’s School of Design. He then designed
for Van Cleef & Arpels before starting his own Manhattan-based, namesake company.
A native Floridian, Huber is mostly inspired by the
ocean—the abundance of nature, flow of the waves
and shape of seashells. But his influences are
hardly literal, echoed only in the soft lines, curvy
shapes, and bold use of color. Self-described by
Huber as “daytime chic, nighttime sophistication,”
his jewelry incorporates diamonds and 18K yellow
and rose gold with stones such as turquoise, nephrite jade and red coral.
Among his newest pieces are the necklace, bracelet, ring and earrings of The Rock series (pictured).
Featuring a “rock” of white topaz, each piece is
handcrafted from 18K yellow gold and accented with
diamonds. The cocktail rings really let the gemstone
shine, each showcasing a large central white topaz
framed by diamonds (pendant, $11,500; left ring,
$8,900; right ring, $7,500; earrings, $11,500).
| Where to Buy | Donald Huber jewelry is available
at Neiman Marcus department stores and fine jewelry retailers. Visit donaldhuber.com.
Corporate Contact: Stacy Huber,
Phone: (212) 675-7575,
Email: stacy@donaldhuber.com
doris Panos
Since launching in 1993, Doris Panos has expanded to offer a wide-ranging collection of
jewelry worthy of everything from brunch with
friends to a black tie event. Using 18K white,
yellow, and rose gold, and often mixing the three, the
jewelry embraces a contemporary flair and knack for
personal style.
Her vast collection of stackable bangles definitely
sets the tone for her line. Great for day or evening,
some feature semiprecious stones while others
set diamonds among peachy-pink gold. Her Black
Tie collection has scrolling metal work encrusted
with diamonds, a balanced and sophisticated design but with a very unique, Doris Panos twist.
While the pieces echo traditional, feminine looks,
they take a more Byzantine and Medieval turn in
their composition. Webs of gold and stark, slim
lines recall the windows of Gothic cathedrals and
calligraphy-like patterns suggest the tracery of illustrated manuscripts.
The intricate weaving of gold and diamonds in her
Two Tone Larsa necklace (pictured) is downright extraordinary. A massive hunk of rose gold is delicately
set with 2.65 carats of white diamonds, the pendant
hung with 18K white gold and yes, more diamonds
($14,916). The only way to accessorize this showpiece is with one (or both) of the Rose Gold Daphne
rings (pictured). Featuring either kunzite or peach
tourmaline set in white and rose gold, the rings upthe-power-ante on any outfit while maintaining a
very feminine DNA (kunzanite ring, $10,582; peach
tourmaline ring, $7,788).
| Where to Buy | Doris Panos jewelry is available
John Michaels Jewelry in Woodbury, New York and
select Neiman Marcus department stores.
Visit dorispanos.com.
Corporate Contact: Michael Altinel,
Phone: (516) 364-4780,
Email: mike@johnmichaelsjewelry.com
elizabeth locke
A tour of Elizabeth Locke’s jewelry collection is like
a trip across time and continents. Locke retrieves
elements from the world over and ages past to find
the just-right touches for her brand new jewelry.
She repurposes items like 17th century Venetian
intaglios, relics from 18th century China or ancient
silver coins. She then sets them in pendants, charm
bracelets and brooches, surrounded by hand-hammered 18K gold and sometimes adds gemstones to
the mix. The rarity of the pieces makes them one-ofa-kind creations that you’re guaranteed to not see
anywhere else (Antique dog enamel pendant with
rubies and diamonds, $7,100; Limited Edition 20th
anniversary charm bracelet, $22,860; Roman coin
earrings, $4,550).
Locke also creates pieces entirely from scratch,
though you might not instantly realize it because of
their respect for techniques and motifs dating to the
Renaissance period and beyond—hand-worked gold,
weighty granulated detail, and colorful Venetian intaglio. Whether they are entirely contemporary or
a mix of the ancient, Elizabeth Locke jewels always
embrace color, craft and a reverance for history.
| Where to buy | Elizabeth Locke jewelry is available at Neiman Marcus department stores and select fine jewelry retailers.
Visit elizabethlockejewels.com.
Corporate Contact: Irene Kojen,
Phone: (212) 744-7878,
Email: elizabethlocke.pk@verizon.net
Erica courtney
Funky and fabulous, Erica Courtney jewelry features whimsical pieces set for a fairy tale, which
may be why they have been the jewelry choice for
stars like Kate Beckinsale, Julia Roberts and Reese
Witherspoon on awards nights. With playful names
like Oh! So Pretty and Lucky You, these pieces bring
every girl back to the princess days and dress up
games, except now it’s with real jewels.
With signature elements like vintage beads, pavé
diamonds and color, color, color, the Drop Dead
Gorgeous collection screams femininity. With blue
sapphires, pink topaz, and moonstones, the pieces look royal yet contemporary, easily worn in the
day or evening. Courtney often utilizes the “flower
burst,” a fluttering of pavé diamonds accented by a
central, colored stone as she does in the Tanzatini,
an earring and cocktail ring set that features juicycolored tanzanite.
In fact, Erica Courtney jewelry paired with the Tanzanite Foundation to launch a limited-edition collection made entirely of the East African stone.
Proceeds went to the charity, which works to promote tanzanite and help the people who live at the
foot of Mount Kilimanjaro, the only known source
of the stone. With a regal feel, the 18K gold Aurora necklace features four multi-faceted tanzanites surrounded by her signature diamond pavé
($159,320).
| Where to Buy | Erica Courtney jewelry is available at Erica Courtney in Beverly Hills.
Visit ericacourtney.com.
Corporate Contact: Shayne Kiesbuey,
Phone: (323) 938-2373,
Email: shayne@ericacourtney.com
EV
EV jewelry has found the ideal balance between contemporary design and nod to history by combining
ancient symbols with brightly-colored, under-theradar gemstones. The hand-crafted, high-end, and
all one-of-a-kind pieces span from natural Russiancut diamonds set in a mixture of 18K yellow and white
golds to “seduction” cocktail rings topped with such
rocks as a 10-carat multifaceted amethyst. Begun
merely two years ago in New York, EV has successfully created collections that bring history, ancient
religions, and mythology to the jewelry forefront.
The Gothic collection is full of dagger-shaped pendants, crosses, and dragons hung from chunky metal chains, and a favorite piece, the Templars ring.
Made entirely of 18K yellow gold and featuring scroll
designs found during the Crusades in 1119, it looks
like a prop that could have been used in the film of
Dan Brown’s novel, The Da Vinci Code.
In the vein of mythology, real-life hero Alexander
the Great is commemorated in the Alexandros ring
(pictured), a recreation of an ancient Greek coin of
Alexander the Great set on the face of a 22K yellow
gold ring. Along the sides are hand-carved scrolls,
inspired by an ancient Greek manuscript highlighting popular jewelry designs of the time ($1,968).
In the Masterpiece collection, EV shows its true colors—literally. Exploding with vibrantly-hued stones
like London blue topaz, Mexican opal, and Columbian emeralds, each piece displays color wrapped in
chunky metal. Pearls are also of the essence, exquisitely set in two different rings (22K yellow gold Reina
ring with South Sea black pearls and diamonds,
$3,680; 18K white gold Pearla ring with Tahitian silk
and pink pearls and diamonds, $9,000).
And if color and history aren’t enough, EV has mastered the “Art of Seduction” with a variety of sensual
pieces including the Tara ring (pictured), which showcases three different sizes of Russian-cut pavé white
diamonds, totaling more than 2.5 carats ($6,350).
| Where to Buy | EV Jewelry is available by private appointment. Visit evjewelrydesign.com.
Corporate Contact: Elias Vayas,
Phone: (212) 869-1010,
Email:
elias@evjewelrydesign.com
favero
Favero jewels satisfy those who
crave classic pieces with distinctive design that retain their allure
year after year. Emphasizing a sense
of elegance that doesn’t take itself too
seriously, Favero’s collections possess
an easy mix of whimsy and flawless workmanship.
The Snow and Rugiada rings are classic Favero.
Movement, whether capturing a spray of diamonds midair or in linked settings that allow a
constant play of shape and light, gives its jewels
a unique vitality.
A new initiative from Favero is its Limited Edition
collection. The five cocktail rings in the collection feature shapely, gravity defying settings that
loop around sultry pink tourmaline and aquamarine, each highlighted with diamonds (pictured).
Limited to no more than ten pieces in each
design, they are some of the finest pieces
the brand has ever produced (top, $28,600;
bottom, $15,500).
| Where to Buy | Favero jewelry is available
at Neiman Marcus, London Jewelers and
other fine jewelry retailers.
Visit faverojewels.com.
Corporate Contact: Andrea Favero,
Phone: (212) 752-6100,
Email: andrea@ faverojewels.com
fope
Set to celebrate its 80th anniversary in 2009, Fope
has become extraordinarily successful by creating fashion-forward jewelry that’s stunningly
comfortable to wear. Satiny smooth gold bracelets that can be worn solo or by the armful and
supple necklaces that meld with the collarbone
are Fope’s most popular offerings, though it creates a full wardrobe of jewelry in countless styles.
Not only does the brand supply its customers with
limitless design variety, its gold comes in white,
yellow, rose, even red tones, and a rainbow of
gemstones, too.
Fope pushes the limits of its materials to new
frontiers with the new Flex’it line of bracelets. The
collection has a springy core that’s virtually unbreakable and lets it slide over the hand with ease.
Another recent launch is the Mondrian collection
(pictured). Inspired by the grid patterns of the
artist’s work, Mondrian has a pleasingly graphic
simplicity. Available in a mix of gemstones, it’s especially stunning with pearl accents whose round
shape balance the angular gold (necklace, $3,940;
ring, $4,360).
| Where to Buy | Fope jewelry is available at fine
jewelry retailers internationally. Visit fope.com.
Corporate Contact: Valeria Verlato,
Phone: 39-0-444-286-911,
Email: info@fope.com
Francesca Furzi
Turin-based Francesca Furzi’s pieces are produced in
Italy by traditional processes and have a heralded attention to detail, elegant lines and high-quality gemstones. But it’s the strong conceptual component to
her pieces that set the brand apart. The collections,
all limited to a series of numbered pieces, form 18K
white, yellow and rose gold into contemporary creations highlighted by spherical pearls, vibrant yellow
sapphires or luminescent diamond pavé. Her use of
princess-cut diamonds is somewhat of a juxtaposition—very feminine in thought, yet generated in a
modern and geometrical aesthetic.
The cylinder Luci earrings and thick Giro bracelet,
among others, showcase her trademark terse-butelegant lines. The Unione ring might possibly take
it to the limit: an abutment of white and yellow gold
separates like opposing electrons as it approaches
the princess-cut diamond, a mere magnet in the
equation. And yet, the Bilanca ring (pictured) still
dazzles in its refinery, a blend of black and white diamonds set atop streamlined white gold (price upon
request). The brand as a whole is a post-modern
look at the idea of feminine jewelry and how it can be
interpreted in strong lines without losing its gracefulness. Furzi, decidedly, has accomplished this.
| Where to Buy | Francesca Furzi jewelry is available by special order. Visit francescafurzi.com.
Corporate Contact: Ramon Ginah,
Phone: 39-011-324-9434,
Email: rginah@francescafurzi.com
Garavelli
Operating according to the principal that jewelry
must be worn to be truly appreciated, Garavelli
strives to produce pieces of versatile, beautiful
jewelry that owners never want to take off. Based
in Valenza, Italy, the brand’s popular trademark is
woven gold that mirrors the supple movement of
fabric. It’s a technique honed by close to a century
of experience as one of Italy’s top jewelry makers
and a tradition of hand workmanship that persists
to his day. Garavelli’s goldsmiths have the knowhow to bend gold according to their whims.
Garavelli’s newest collections have taken an edgier turn from the typically soft, feminine approach.
In the Palla collection (above), orbs studded with
gemstones have a stark, space-age gloss, especially in the black diamond pendant strung from
the 18K white gold Bubble necklace (pendant,
$8,700; necklace, $4,930). Alamari rings (below)
with pavé diamond detail allude to Garavelli’s
heritage of weaving gold with a look that has the
appearance of an extreme close-up of thread (18K
yellow gold diamond ring, $4,500; 18K white gold
black, white and brown diamond ring, $4,000; 18K
white gold black and white diamond ring, $4,150).
| Where to Buy | Garavelli jewelry is available at
select fine jewelry boutiques. Visit garavellialdo.it.
Corporate Contact: Elisabetta Molina,
Phone: 39-0-131-941-350,
Email: elisabetta@garavellialdo.it
garrard
Begun in London in 1735, Garrard is considered
the oldest jewelry house in the world. But in 1843,
Garrard received the title that catapulted it to grandeur: Crown Jeweller, bestowed upon the company
by Queen Victoria. Since, Garrard has reset the infamous Koh-i-noor diamond into a crown, mounted
the 530-carat Cullinan diamond in the Sovereign’s
Sceptre, and carried out its privileged craftsmanship in sports trophies such as the America’s Cup
and Dubai World Cup.
With collections ranging from the whimsical Knightrider, with shield-inspired diamond cufflinks, to the
classic Regal collection to traditional Engagement
settings, Garrard has proved that Crown Jewel quality can be carried through to contemporary times.
Garrard recently named Stephen Webster as their
new creative director, a position that must maintain
the delicate balance between the company’s tradi-
tion and the push for more innovative designs. And in
fall 2009, Marchesa designer Georgina Chapman will
debut her collaborative collection with the jeweler.
Above all, however, timelessness remains. The Garrard Royal Cluster, one of their signature designs
sets the finest sapphires, rubies and emeralds in a
wrap of their petal-like Eternal Cut diamonds. The
Deco bracelets (above) from the Legacy collection
feature smoky quartz and pavé diamonds set in white
gold, an ode to tradition and refined elegance (large
bracelet, $35,500; small bracelet, $17,750).
| Where to Buy | Garrard jewelry is available at
Garrard boutiques worldwide. Visit garrard.com.
Corporate Contact: Susan Moseley,
Phone: (310) 860-8968,
Email: susan.moseley@garrard.com
Gauthier
Scott Gauthier’s start in the jewelry business
wasn’t the world’s most illustrious—his first
duty was to dust a boutique’s shelves. With a few
more decades of experience under his belt, and
his own designer jewelry collection in full swing,
Gauthier is still hands-on. He personally designs every piece and works in his own boutique.
Pared down, contemporary lines are key to the
Gauthier style. Bold rings have a high-gloss look
that reveals an industrial influence—if it weren’t
for the fact that they were set with gemstones, you
might guess some were parts from a machine.
The erectness and simplicity of the lines that compose each piece leave no room for error, exposing
the degree of expert manufacturing he employs.
Both rings from The Modern Collection display
Gauthier’s special gift for minimalist jewelry with
a bit of razzle dazzle. Whether in 14K white gold
with two carats of brilliant-cut diamonds and a
radiant-cut blue sapphire (above) or 14K white
gold with diamonds and South Sea pearl (below),
both have the clean lines of pint-sized sculptures
(Blue sapphire ring, $29,500; pearl ring, $28,000).
| Where to Buy | Gauthier jewelry is available at
the Gauthier l’atelier in Scottsdale, Arizona.
Visit jewelrybygauthier.com
Corporate Contact: Tom McKeever,
Phone: (480) 941-1707,
Email: info@jewelrybygauthier.com
Gem Platinum
New York-based jeweler Gem Platinum has been
creating one-of-a-kind heirloom pieces for marriage, anniversary or other special occasions since
its inception in the late 1920s. Family run for four
generations, the company strives to create pieces
that bridge the fine line between classic and trendy.
Everything is crafted from 18K rose, yellow or white
gold or platinum. Exclusive use of conflict-free diamonds and certified gemstones reflects Gem Platinum’s unwavering ethical and quality standards.
In recent years, the Jeffrey Daniels collection has
been a key focus for the brand. Also consisting of
unique designs, the line’s jewelry juxtaposes outof- the-ordinary colors and shapes with the company’s classic elements. One example of the Jeffrey
Daniels approach comes in a stunning bib necklace
(pictured) that reimagines the traditional diamond
strand by working 217 colorless round diamonds
into a web accented with 10 natural fancy intense
oval diamonds ($300,000).
| Where to Buy | Gem Platinum jewelry is available
at select fine jewelry retailers.
Visit gemplatinum.com.
Corporate Contact: Jeff Post,
Phone: (212) 302-3874,
Email: jeffp@gemplat.com
GEM PLATINUM
Gem Platinum clients can rest assured that their
diamonds pass muster in every respect: They’re
conflict-free, never treated or irradiated and GIAcertified. The intense color, fire and faultless quality the brand’s jewelry exhibits comes entirely from
expert gemstone selection, cutting and goldsmithing. One covetable example: a phenomenal natural
fancy yellow diamond ring flanked by round and
baguette diamonds (18K yellow gold and platinum
ring with 2.60-carat yellow diamond, $44,000).
| Where to Buy | Gem Platinum is available at select fine jewelry retailers. Visit gemplatinum.com.
Corporate Contact: Jeff Post,
Phone: (212) 302-3874,
Email: jeffp@gemplat.com
GEM PLATINUM
Whether in a floral motif necklace or evening-appropriate cluster earrings, Gem Platinum’s exquisite
workmanship is evident in each piece’s near-invisible construction. Very little of the fine platinum or
18K gold that holds the diamonds securely in place
can be seen—it’s the perfectly matched and placed
diamonds that are the center of attention. Flexible,
graceful assembly ensures that each jewel seems
to float weightlessly against the skin (18K white gold
necklace with 112 diamonds totaling 35.50 carats,
$160,000; platinum bracelet with radiant-cut diamonds, $128,000; platinum and diamond earrings,
$31,000; 18K white gold emerald-cut diamond ring
with round diamonds, $20,000).
| Where to Buy | Gem Platinum is available at select fine jewelry retailers. Visit gemplatinum.com.
Corporate Contact: Jeff Post,
Phone: (212) 302-3874,
Email: jeffp@gemplat.com
GEM PLATINUM
Beyond the high-carat, one-of-a-kind jewelry designs for which it’s well known, Gem Platinum creates a range of casual essentials too. Easy-wearing
bangles in gold, including 18K rose, white or twotone varieties, complement virtually any wardrobe.
Capped with two round diamonds of exceptional
clarity and brillance, each bracelet exhibits Gem
Platinum’s flawless craftsmanship in everyday jewelry ($1,370 each).
| Where to Buy | Gem Platinum is available at select fine jewelry retailers. Visit gemplatinum.com.
Corporate Contact: Jeff Post,
Phone: (212) 302-3874,
Email: jeffp@gemplat.com
GEM PLATINUM
A sparkling symbol of enduring love, Gem Platinum
takes the classic diamond eternity band and presents it in a dazzling spectrum of options. Choose
from the modern geometry of baguette-, princessor emerald-cut diamonds placed end to end or the
curved lines of repeating, round stones. Favorites
for engagement or to celebrate a special milestone,
their versatility and elegance ensures that they’ll
be worn always (Clockwise from left: Platinum ring
with baguette diamonds, $9,600; platinum ring
with round diamonds, $8,800; platinum ring with
princess-cut diamonds, $9,600; platinum ring with
emerald-cut diamonds, $64,000; platinum ring with
round diamonds, $28,800).
| Where to Buy | Gem Platinum is available at select fine jewelry retailers. Visit gemplatinum.com.
Corporate Contact: Jeff Post,
Phone: (212) 302-3874,
Email: jeffp@gemplat.com
GEM PLATINUM
The purity of exceptional, graduated round diamonds matched with a shimmering pear-shaped
drop is an eternally elegant combination. Worn
alone, the face-flattering gems quietly heighten the
drama of any look, and the understated style pairs
beautifully with a wide range of jewelry options.
Chic, and endlessly wearable, the timeless earrings
are the ultimate foundation for a fine jewelry collection (Platinum earrings with pear-cut and round
brilliant diamonds, $64,000).
| Where to Buy | Gem Platinum is available at select fine jewelry retailers. Visit gemplatinum.com.
Corporate Contact: Jeff Post,
Phone: (212) 302-3874,
Email: jeffp@gemplat.com
Georg Jensen
A leading force in the world of modern design for more
than a century, Georg Jensen, to many, epitomizes
the refined, pure look that defines Scandinavian style.
From his earliest days, Jensen created brilliantly
fluid, streamlined jewelry in the same workshop that
crafted his wildly successful cutlery and hollowware.
Nine years ago, the Georg Jensen jewelry library
expanded to include one of the most memorable
launches in recent memory with the creation of the
Fusion collection. Composed of jigsawed gold rings
that fit together as a puzzle would, Fusion was a
smash hit from the moment it hit boutiques in 2000. It
remains George Jensen’s top selling jewelry collection of all time and has spawned coordinating pendants for those who can’t stop with the rings alone.
Georg Jensen’s trademark is purity of line and
seamless craftsmanship. The Zephyr collection
(pictured) displays those qualities to perfection. The
elements are reduced to the material and design,
allowing Georg Jensen’s superior skill, the beauty
of its construction, and its buttery 18K yellow gold
speak for itself (necklace, $5,965; earrings, $1,416).
| Where to Buy | Georg Jensen jewelry is available
at select fine jewelry retailers. Visit georgjensen.com.
Corporate Contact: Barry Brenner,
Phone: (212) 759-6457,
Email: bbrenner@georgjensen.com
giorgio
visconti
Giorgio Visconti doesn’t shy away from embracing
its Italian roots, as evidenced by its most popular
collection. Dubbed “Empire” (pictured) it incorporates genuine coins from the Roman empire
into a range of jewelry, from sautoir necklaces
with multiple stations to timepieces with coins
for dials. Framed in 18K gold and encased under
crystal, Empire is the definitive Giorgio Visconti
collection. The ever-expanding catalog of designs
inspires collectors to always be on the lookout
for new pieces (necklace $4,000; ring $3,500).
In a similarly historic vein, the new Icons collection borrows from heraldic symbolism. The
regal gold rings feature fleur du lys, Gothic
crosses or gemstones like carnelian and onyx.
Dependng on the wearer, the pieces can be archly
traditional or rockstar chic. As one of Italy’s jewelry powerhouses, Giorgio Visconti has an encyclopedic number of offerings, making it possible to satisfy any number of fashion whims.
| Where to Buy | Giorgio Visconti jewelry is available at select fine jewelry retailers.
Visit giorgiovisconit.it.
Corporate Contact: Dan Bruck,
Phone: (212) 956-6565,
Email: danielvjewelry@yahoo.com
gregg ruth
Many consider Gregg Ruth a leader in the category of
jewelers who can offer important pieces of high jewelry in stones of singular quality. Diamond jewelry,
both in white and in colored varieties, is Gregg Ruth’s
stock in trade because of its reputation as a source of
unassailable quality diamonds with timeless design.
From engagement rings to fashion-centric
pieces, Gregg Ruth’s enduring trait is unfailing
high standards when it comes to manufacturing fine jewelry that won’t ever go out of style.
Pieces like its Asscher-cut fancy brown orange
diamond solitaire ring (pictured) flanked by
pink and white diamond accents and coordinating bracelet set in platinum will be treasured for
generations (ring, $197,386; bracelet, $136,814).
But Gregg Ruth’s expertise with gemstones doesn’t
end with diamonds as the brand had made a concerted effort to expand its offerings in colored gemstones. It hit the mark with the Precious Color collection, which created pieces in Gregg Ruth’s signature
ladylike look with rubies, emeralds and sapphires.
| Where to Buy | Gregg Ruth jewelry is available
at select fine jewelry retailers. Visit greggruth.com.
Corporate Contact: Cortland Shopper,
Phone: (310) 456-1888 ext. 118,
Email: cortland@greggruth.com
gucci Fine jewelry
From its origins as a small family-run luggage maker in the 1920s to its current status as one of the
world’s most enduring symbols of luxury and status,
few brands can match Gucci’s spectacular rise. One
of the latest additions to its massive ready to wear
and accessories universe, Gucci Fine Jewelry brings
iconic Gucci symbols to yellow and white gold that
will stay in your wardrobe from season to season.
The most iconic Gucci symbol of them all, its interlocking G logo, gets ample exposure in its collection
from season to season, appearing in earrings and
impressed into gold hoops, pendants and cufflinks.
There’s variation among its finishes, addition of gemstones and numerous sizes to satisfy even the most
finicky (18K white gold and diamond Icon Twirl ring,
$2,190; 18K white gold and diamond pavé bands Icon
Twirl ring, $2,400).
Along with the logoed pieces, elements that symbolize Gucci and appear in the collection include pieces
in 18K yellow gold and enamel that mimic the look of
bamboo immortalized in the Jackie O bag and horsebit and nailhead details that have been part of the
house’s legacy since its earliest years.
For those with brand loyalty and a bankroll to match,
there are a limited number of one-of-a-kind pieces
offered each year.
| Where to Buy | Gucci Fine Jewelry is available at
select Gucci boutiques worldwide. Visit gucci.com.
Corporate Contact: Michael Daly,
Phone: (212) 826-2600
gumuchian
As one testimonial states: “Gumuchian is the little
black dress of the jewelry industry—something every woman should have in her wardrobe.” Whether
it’s a pair of coral and platinum drop earrings or
a diamond Deco bracelet with almost seven carats of round and princess cut stones, Gumuchian
has established a reputation for intricate and bold
designs that still offer a sense of simplicity. From
the ornate Deco to the streamlined Ms. G, Gumuchian’s collections showcase elegant, wearable jewelry with enough weight and statement
to survive in the daily life of the modern woman.
Designed by a mother and her two daughters, Gumuchian works exclusively with platinum and diamonds cut in Antwerp. The diamonds are set in such
a way to show no metal prongs, a feat that takes the
most skilled setters more than 10 minutes to accomplish for each prong. The immaculate quality
of this procedure is seen in the Twinset collection.
It houses mostly bridal rings, but also “jewelry that
pops” special occasion pieces such as the five-stone
platinum diamond Journey pendant and the twocarat diamond pavé and platinum Heart pendant.
While Deco offers the detailed, extravagant diamond
and platinum jewelry, the Bryant Park collection
gives an art deco-esque feel with a more contemporary twist. Suspending various colored gemstones,
such as amethyst, aquamarine, and mandarin garnet, from outer platinum designs set with pavé diamonds, each piece captures the romance and beauty
of New York’s classic Bryant Park. It’s jewelry worthy
of any city girl (Emerald Tassel Necklace, $70,000).
| Where to Buy | Gumuchian jewelry is available
at select fine jewelry retailers. Visit gumuchian.com.
Corporate Contact: Myriam Gumuchian,
Phone: (212) 593-9888,
Email: myriam@gumuchian.com
gurhan
The first time he handled pure 24K gold was in
the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul, and it changed the
course of Gurhan Orhan’s life entirely. The sensuous, warm quality of the metal so appealed to
him that he became fascinated with the process
of working with the material. His passion lead him
to study the technique of the ancient artisans that
first molded the metal into fine jewelry. More than
15 years later, at the helm of his own jewelry brand,
the fascination with pure gold (and, now platinum)
remains. As his business grows, others are coming to appreciate the special lustre of pure metals.
There’s no telling where Gurhan’s imagination will take him. A fan favorite among Gurhan
collectors are pendants that pair 24K gold and
gemstones in juicy tropical color (pink tourmaline rose cut necklace, $5,860; green emerald
pendant, $13,900). Also, known for taking rare,
non-gemstone materials (micromosaics, vintage
porcelain framents) and putting them into his collections, part of the appeal of Gurhan’s jewelry is
watching the evolution of his trailblazing vision.
As for the little piece of gold that started it all? Even
today Gurhan carries it with him everywhere he goes.
| Where to Buy | Gurhan is available at Neiman
Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue and Barney’s New York
department stores and select fine jewelry retailers.
Visit gurhan.com.
Corporate Contact: Lisa Kapp,
Phone: (646) 230-1122,
Email: kapp@gurhan.com
h stern
Rio-based H. Stern’s early success sprang from visionary appreciation for colored gemstones that others eschewed. While most mid-20th century jewelry
designers favored only the most precious stones,
Hans Stern bet on the notion that the rest of the
world would come to see the beauty of the citrine,
topaz, and amethyst stones he loved. Today, with the
largest purpose-built jewelry workshop in the world,
it’s safe to say Stern is having the last laugh.
No longer working in colored stones exclusively, H.
Stern’s collection of modern designs includes diamond jewelry (it also created the proprietary Stern
Star cut), finely worked gold and collaborations with
fashion designer Diane von Furstenburg.
Two of its latest creations exhibit the variety in its
approach. Broad, graceful eternity knots brimming
with diamonds frame the wrist in the Celtic Dunes
cuff ($130,000); its appeal comes from its boldness
and strength. The Empress bracelet, by contrast, is
all organic, curling lines with soft, feminine allure
($51,000).
| Where to Buy | H. Stern jewelry is available at H.
Stern boutiques. Visit hstern.com.
Corporate Contact: Corporate Sales,
Phone: (212) 688-0300,
Email: ccustomerservice@hstern.com.br
harry winston
Harry Winston is a name inextricably linked to some
of the finest, largest diamonds ever discovered, and
its jewelry, in signature invisibly-set stones has captivated the world for more than a century.
Not satisfied to rest on its laurels, Harry Winston
has launched two new collctions: one celebrates its
extraordinary heritage, and the other takes a daring
new direction.
With The Incredibles collection (pictured), the brand
revisited its archive to develop new one-of-a-kind
pieces in magnificent, rare stones, including a seven-carat brown diamond that’s at the heart of the
Kite necklace (price available upon request). Not
actual reproductions of archive designs, but vintageinspired pieces with a modern twist, The Incredibles’
raises the already high standards of craftsmanship
one expects from Harry Winston.
The Tattoo Collection is an offbeat new option.
Retro-chic gemstone brooches influenced by sailor tattoos pose an unexpected, witty take on fine
jewelry that will bring a new generation of fans to
Harry Winston salons.
| Where to Buy | Harry Winston jewelry is available
at Harry Winston boutiques. Visit harrywinston.com.
Corporate Contact: Tom Burstein,
Phone: (212) 245-2000
hearts on fire
Initially known for creating exceptional engagement
jewelry, Hearts on Fire continues to expand the
breadth of its collections. Just over a decade old, the
brand boasts a fast growing range of fashion jewelry,
plus options for men and children.
Profoundly ambitious, the Hearts on Fire Architectural collection (pictured) consists of 17 unique
pieces modeled after some of the world’s most
iconic structures. Although the connection between
architecture and jewelry might not be universally apparent at first, the scalloped structure of the Sydney
Opera House as rendered in the 75-carat Virtuoso
necklace ($400,000) removes any doubt that the two
disciplines share and artistic spirit. Other sites that
inspired pieces in the collection are the he Chicago
Spire (Culmination earrings, $121,500I, Beijing’s
Olympic stadium and New York’s Chrysler Building.
| Where to Buy | Hearts on Fire jewelry is available
at Hearts on Fire Boutique at the Shoppes at The
Water Club, Atlantic City. Visit heartsonfire.com.
Corporate Contact: Nan Piper Kochanski,
Phone: (609) 317-7770,
Email: nkochanski@heartsonfire.com
hellmuth
Based in Germany, Hellmuth has an eye for simplicity and texture. Known for its creativity, the brand
focuses on patterns and design when it comes to
the high-quality 18K gold and silver jewelry, all
made in the Hellmuth family’s native country. Their
slogan is “Simply Good,” and the jewelry proves just
that – innovative pieces with a classic and contemporary balance.
Most commonly recognized is the company’s Croco
collection, an elegant interpretation of crocodile skin
composed of 18K gold and augmented with precious
gemstones and diamonds. The crocodile-skin inspiration actually goes back three generations of the
Hellmuth family, when founder Karl Friedrich Hellmuth began manufacturing fine jewelry for watches
in crocodile skin. Now, the company features several
versions of Croco, from circus-like inspirations to a
colorful Caribbean set. The Black and White Croco
line (earrings and ring pictured) illustrates their design in the popular black-and-white juxtaposition,
a stark and classic contrast loaded with diamonds
(earrings, $5,600; ring, $6,500).
Their traditional Croco also gets a modern interpretation in the cut-out patterned cuff (below), a bejeweled working of negative space outlined with 18K
white gold and diamonds ($18,000). Amazing what
can come from a simple idea and a natural muse.
| Where to Buy | Hellmuth jewelry is available at
Neiman Marcus department stores. Visit hellmuth.de.
Corporate Contact: Ron Hoffman,
Phone: (951) 788-6930,
Email: hellmuthusa@aol.com
Henry dunay
For 50 years, Henry Dunay has been a leader among
independent jewelry designers. He began honing
his skills early, starting out as a goldsmith’s apprentice at the age of 14. Seven years learning the
intricasies of working in gold under an experienced
hand, was the beginning of an artistic journey that
continues today.
Dunay is probably most strongly associated with his
designs in highly textured 18K yellow gold: The Sabi
(pictured) has a warm, satiny touch and the highly
polished, faceted pieces reflect brightly from every
angle (Sabi bracelets, $26,900-$64,000). These gold
collections are the foundation for many of his jewelry
designs and sculptures in gold and carved stones. A
tour of his New York atelier quickly reveals a fascination with gemstones, too—with boyish enthusiam
he’ll pull a rare fire opal, vivid sapphire or carnelian
cabochon from his vault. Colored stones fascinate
him and he sometimes holds on to a single, special
stone for years until he develops a design that will
do it justice.
The most treasured and collectible of Dunay’s designs are one-of-a-kind pieces, each made entirely
by him. Unique expressions of his fertile imagination,
recent favorites have included a major Sabi gold cuff
set with a baroque pearl approaching Easter-egg
proportions and a bead necklace made from newly
discovered gemstone moonquartz.
| Where to Buy | Henry Dunay jewelry is available
at Bergdorf Goodman in New York and Neiman Marcus stores. Visit henrydunay.com.
Corporate Contact: Frinette Simon,
Phone: (212) 768-9700,
Email: frinettek@yahoo.com
Ilias lalaounis
Born to a long line of goldsmiths, it might have been
predictable that Ilias Lalaounis might enter the family business. Consisting primarily of 22K gold, early
Lalaounis pieces mined ancient Greek traditions for
inspiration. The original designs, initially seen as
radical in Greece, were first embraced by international markets.
ing, granulation, wire filigree and knitted gold wire,
work that’s still performed by hand (18-22K gold
bracelets with gemstones, price upon request).
With an archive of designs that number in the tens of
thousands, vintage items come into and out of circulation frequently. But, the next generation of Lalaounis design comes courtesy of daughter Maria, who
spearheads development of new collections.
Subsequent collections took inspiration from beyond Greece’s borders—Africa (pendant, $7,400),
the Ottoman empire and the Far East became
sources of design ideas, as were contemporary art
and sculpture.
| Where to buy | Ilias Lalaounis jewelry is available
at its five Lalounis boutiques worldwide.
Visit lalaounis.com.
Examining some of its more intricate pieces is like
a course in Goldsmithing 101. It’s not unusual for a
single Lalaounis piece to exhibit hammered finish-
Contact: Claudia Wachtel,
Phone: (212) 439-9400,
Email: ilias.lalaounis@verizon.net
IO SI
In a world of mass-produced mega
brands Io Si stands apart. Each piece of
jewelry it creates is from a strictly limited
series; a laser engraved number and certificate of authencity back up the claim. In
addition to a rare opportunity to take home a
design few others in the world can possess, Io
Si clients lay claim to stunning jewels made by
one of the pacesetters in contemporary jewelry.
Cocktail rings in zingy shades, often in striking
combinations, are Io Si’s claim to fame. The elements in their design are strong and sculptural. In
particular, the brand lavishes attention on flowers
in its collections: the Fior Di Loto collection features
a central pearl peeking from beneath golden petals
and in the Baccarat collection (pictured), arching
petals seem to float in space independent of each
other. Io Si craftsmanship is so precise that many of
the rings can stand perfectly balanced on a flat base,
an object of beauty one can admire while worn or not
(Rose gold Baccarat pendant with diamonds; Rose
gold Rinascimento ring with diamonds, both, price
upon request).
| Where to Buy | Io Si jewelry is available at Io Si in
Valenza, Italy, and select fine jewelry retailers.
Visit io-si.com.
Corporate Contact: Sergio Piazza,
Phone: 39-0-131-973-411,
Email: sergio.piazza@ditgroup.it
Irene Neuwirth
California girl Irene Neuwirth exudes laid back
charm, and the same quality exists in her range of
chic, bohemian jewelry that’s a popular and critical
hit. Her formula of gold and vibrant gems is so successful that the relative rookie to the world of design
was a 2008 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist.
Colorful gemstones are always at the heart
of Neuwirth’s collections with subtle palette
shifts from one season to the next. Her newest pieces reveled in blue opals, whose iridescent surfaces have rare fire, intense chalcedony, and peach moonstone, in particular.
The collection sometime mixes the stones together
in a single piece for a happy-go-lucky, kaleidescopic
effect. Or, she maintains a sense of power with a single gemstone, like the 22-inch rosecut lapis necklace ($13,200).
Another feature of Neuwirth’s newest is a dose of
fluidity and movement: fringed and multi-strand
necklaces and have a kinetic quality that heightens
the life in the pieces (18K gold cocktail ring with rosecut rainbow moonstone and diamonds, $15,202).
| Where to buy | Irene Neuwirth jewelry is available at Barney’s New York and select fine jewelry
retailers. Visit ireneneuwirth.com.
Corporate Contact: Joanne Teichman,
Phone: (972) 980-0819,
Email: joanne@ylang23.com
Iridesse
Founded by Tiffany & Co. in 2004, Iridesse is the legendary jeweler’s pearl-only brand focusing on iconic,
lustrous looks. In its short time, Iridesse has successfully designed elegant, simple arrangements
of pearls and diamonds set in 18K gold and sterling silver. Using every cultured pearl type – Akoya,
Freshwater, Tahitian, and South Sea – Iridesse has
woven black, white, and multicolored pearls into
long strands, marquise diamond pavé settings and
fleurette earrings. The brand’s 40-inch long strands
are made to be layered, while the stud earrings and
short necklaces appeal to the more traditional personality. Iridesse has also experimented with 18K
yellow gold jewelry that showcases semi-precious
stones like smoky quartz and gold citrine.
While strands of Tahitian multicolored baroque
pearls or golden South Sea pearls never fail to impress, the Daisy necklace from the Moments collection truly defines Iridesse’s irresistable charm and
superior craftsmanship. The 36-inch, 18K white gold
necklace features 7.5mm Akoya pearls and more
than five carats of diamond pavé ($12,500). Similarly, the Floating Pearl necklace displays 10mm and
11mm cultured white South Sea pearls, delicately
attached to a petite, 26-inch 18K white gold necklace
that would not be complete without a diamond pavé
clasp ($3,350).
| Where to Buy | Iridesse jewelry is available at Iridesse boutiques. Visit iridesse.com.
Corporate Contact: David Harcourt,
Phone: (973) 218-0340
jacob & co.
Whether it’s an over-the-top 18K rose gold pavé
dome ring rocking more than 16 carats or a scriptlike pavé bezel set diamond heart pendant in 18K
white gold, Jacob & Co knows how to create a striking contemporary piece of jewelry.
Striving for standout shapes, Jacob & Co offers a
wide range of statement jewelry. The full-arm cuff
bracelet (above) places fancy shaped pink and yellow
diamonds, totaling almost 53 carats, among white
diamond pavé swirls ($459,000).
Jacob & Co has also experimented with new color
choices and textures. An 18K yellow gold pavé dia-
mond chain totals 26.45 carats and can be worn as
a necklace or doubled as a bracelet. On an exotic
note, the brand introduced zebra, leopard, and anaconda patterned diamond bangles and a Snake Cuff
Bracelet (above), in a18K white gold, more than 11
carats of diamond pavé, and glaring green garnet
eyes ($32,650).
| Where to Buy | Jacob & Co. jewelry is available at
Jacob & Co. in New York. Visit jacobandco.com.
Corporate Contact: Ines Gierke,
Phone: (212) 719-5887,
Email: jewelry@jacobandco.com.
joan hornig
It’s a rare shopping expedition that has the capacity to make one feel altruistic. But when purchasing
jewelry from Joan Hornig, there’s good reason to—
profits from all purchases go to any charity that the
client selects.
But customers don’t choose Joan Hornig jewelry
because they feel as thought they’re doing a good
deed. Her collections have serious design chops.
The bubbly designer (and former banker) is her
brand’s best advertisement: she understands
exactly what her sophisticated patrons want—
fabulous form and function. Touches like
earrings that always cover unsightly pierced
holes and ideally snug cuff bracelets are the
details that ensure that her clients will live
in the pieces and come back for more.
Made in 18K yellow gold and or sterling
silver, plus touches of semiprecious
gemstones, many pieces have an earthy,
sculptural silouhette. Standouts include the Lapis Petal necklace, with
its hypnotic deep blue color and warm
texture ($3,295), and the complementary Flirt earrings ($1,995).
| Where to Buy | Joan Hornig jewelry
is available at Bergdorf Goodman in New
York. Visit joanhornig.com.
Corporate Contact: Alex Magliolo,
Phone: (212) 427-6216,
Email: alex@joanhornig.com
jochen pohl
Gemstones figure into designer Jochen Pohl’s earliest memories. Growing up in Idar-Oberstein, Germany, the son of a goldsmith dwelling in a city that’s
a capital of the gemstone trade, an appreciation for
great stones came to him almost by osmosis. His
jewelry collection centers on the high quality colored
gemstones that fired his spirit from childhood.
Pohl’s collection consists of mostly rings, and he
only uses platinum and rose gold in his designs. The
metals have a mirror-like gloss and super smooth
surface that’s stunningly lovely in isolation and a
perfectly pure frame for gemstones of comparable
clarity (Rose gold diamond pavé ring, $25,650; Space
L Platin ring with diamonds, $35,725; V-Max ring
with green beryl and diamonds , $21,690).
The consistency of Pohl’s vision and his emphasis on
maximizing the potential of each stone means that
his designs don’t necessary undergo a sea change
from one year to the next; it’s finding the stones that
ignite his imagination rather than trend or season
that gives the designer his direction.
| Where to Buy | Jochen Pohl jewelry is available
at select fine jewelry retailers.
Visit jochenpohl.com.
Corporate contact: Jochen Pohl,
Phone: 49-6781-358-86,
Email: info@jochenpohl.com
John hardy
Taking a tour of the John Hardy jewelry collections
is like a vicarious visit to Bali, the Indonesian island
where the brand is based. Its culture and environment marks every finely detailed piece: the island’s
ubiquitous bamboo figures into a collection as do
prints from local batik traditions. Even the terraced
landscape of rice fields offer fodder for John Hardy’s
core collections, which are made primarily in sterling silver, sometimes with gem accents.
The Cinta collection (pictured) of one-of-a-kind
pieces take the exotic appeal of John Hardy jewelry
to its furthest extremes. A fantastically imaginative
spectrum of precious gemstones that aren’t available in the core John Hardy collections appear in
Cinta designs. It offers pieces like an turquoise
pendant with a white gold dragon that breathes
diamond flames, plus armbands and rings carved
from shell then piled high with twinkling gems
(Cinta 18K pink gold marble cone shell ring with
violet sapphire, violet amethyst and cognac rose cut
diamonds, $10,000).
| Where to Buy | John Hardy jewelry is availabe at
select fine jewelry retailers. This piece is available by
special order only. Visit johnhardy.com.
Corporate Contact: Lionel Geneste,
Phone (212) 219-4288,
Email: lionel.geneste@johnhardy.com
JudeFrances
The ultimate sign that you’ve made it big: when Oprah Winfrey—who recently picked up a JudeFrances piece for herself at Neiman
Marcus—gives you her highly sought-after seal of approval. But before they were a multi-million dollar company selling their
works to one of the world’s most influential stars, Jude Steele and Frances Gadbois were just two women with a shared passion
for beautiful jewelry. After meeting at a charity dinner, the pair became fast friends and business partners. Today Frances, a former interior designer, heads up the label’s designs while Jude, a fashion-forward mother of three, manages sales and marketing.
Based out of Southern California, the line is an easy amalgamation of Frances’ classically romantic style—the product of
a childhood in the English countryside—and Jude’s preference for edgy, trendy pieces. While it began with interchangeable hoop and charm earrings, now recognized as one of the label’s signatures, JudeFrances has evolved to include
necklaces, bracelets, earrings and rings, and even special bridal and limited edition collections. Their latest limited release, The Wedding Cuff, is an 18K white gold stunner, accented with an astounding 1,020 diamonds totaling 6.48 carats
for a serious dose of sparkle. Though it was specially created for Jude’s recent wedding, the cuff—much like other JudeFrances pieces—is an elegant addition to any jewelry collection. (18K white gold and diamond Wedding Cuff, $33,600.)
WHERE TO BUY: JudeFrances jewelry is available at Maxon’s Diamonds in Springfield, MO. Visit www.judefrances.com.
Corporate Contact: Troy Perkins, Phone: (949) 553-8860, Email: troy@judefrances.com
judith leiber
For 45 years, Judith Leiber has been known
for her sophisticated, gemstone, diamond and
crystal encrusted evening handbags. But also
elegant and stylish is Judith Leiber Fine
Jewelry, a collection of 18K white gold diamond and gemstone pavé bracelets, rings,
and earrings launched in May 2006. Ranging
from the exotic Urban Wild collection to traditional designs in her Shapes collection, Judith
Leiber maintains the quality and craftsmanship
that defines luxury brand.
The newest pieces are part of the Fall 2008 Urban
Wild collection, an assortment of pavé designs with
colored diamonds inspired by animal prints. Whether
you feel like adorning giraffe, snow leopard, leopard,
or zebra, Safari-esque jewelry speaks to the adventurous set of Madison Avenue.
While not urban wild, the Pavé collection’s 18K white
gold “Skin” bracelets, rings, and earrings certainly
have an Amazonian feel. Made of nearly 3,000 handset gemstones, round brilliant-cut diamonds, sapphires, and tsavorite, the Skin bracelet features
more than a carat of finely-placed stones reminiscent of a python skin.
Her classic Shapes consists of white gold and diamond jewelry of various designs, each showcasing
a central, natural gemstone of your choice: peridot,
aquamarine, blue sapphire, yellow sapphire, green
tourmaline, pink tourmaline or rhodolite garnet
(necklace and rings, all, price upon request).
| Where to Buy | Judith Leiber Fine Jewelry is
available at Judith Leiber boutiques.
Visit judithleiberfinejewelry.com.
Corporate Contact: Nicole Morgan,
Phone: (702) 792-0661
judith ripka
Judith Ripka jewelry embraces all things pretty. A
consummate girly girl whose knack for accessorizing
started circa pre-school, Ripka’s pieces unabashedly
boast lovely pastel stones, sweet heart charms and
romantic, vintage-inspired details.
The collection is available in a pairing of sterling silver and 18K yellow gold or pieces in yellow or white
18K gold exclusively. The jewels that gets the full-on
treatment of gold, diamonds and colored gemstones
are found in Ripka’s 18K Gold Couture Collection.
Its highlights include Monaco cocktail rings (left)
that feature jumbo faceted solitaire stones set surrounded by pave accents (Monaco rings with various
gemstones, from $5,900). Another super-luxe Ripka
design is the wide Aurora cuff (right). Covered in cotton candy-colored opals with pink sapphires and diamonds, the piece packs a powerfully feminine punch
($45,000). Gold Couture Ombre chandelier earrings
carry Ripka’s signature pastel stones, but in rhodium
coated gold settings, the stones have a sultry allure
($16,000).
| Where to Buy | Judith Ripka jewelry is available
at Judith Ripka boutiqes nationwide. Visit www.
judithripka.com.
Corporate Contact: Steven Eliades,
Phone: (212) 517-8200,
Email: steven.eliades@judithripka.com
JUDITH RIPKA
For a classic, versatile Judith Ripka design that you’ll
never take off, look no further than the Cushion ring
collection. Choose from full pavé-set rings topped
with diamonds and set in 18K white or yellow gold,
or in semi-precious colored gemstones ringed with
diamond accents (from $5,500).
| Where to Buy | Available at Judith Ripka,
777 Madison Avenue, New York City.
Visit www.judithripka.com.
Corporate Contact: Steven Eliades,
Phone: (212) 517-8200,
Email: steven@judithripka.com
JUDITH RIPKA
Suspended from an elegantly curved 18K wire post,
Judith Ripka Lola earrings feature cushion-cut gemstones in tantalizing hits of color. Diamond-studded
heart prongs hold the central stone in place and add
a hint of tender ornamentation, a trademark Ripka
technique. Classic and bright, they can enhance any
wardrobe with fanciful charm ($1,600).
| Where to Buy | Available at Judith Ripka,
777 Madison Avenue, New York City.
Visit www.judithripka.com.
Corporate Contact: Steven Eliades,
Phone: (212) 517-8200,
Email: steven@judithripka.com
JUDITH RIPKA
Anyone wearing Judith Ripka jewelry feels lucky—
all the more when donning the designer’s Evil Eye
cuff links. Traditionally considered an amulet to ward
off bad tidings, the unisex gems in 18K yellow gold,
white, blue and black diamonds bestow the additional benefit of enduring chic ($3,500).
| Where to Buy | Available at Judith Ripka,
777 Madison Avenue, New York City.
Visit www.judithripka.com.
Corporate Contact: Steven Eliades,
Phone: (212) 517-8200,
Email: steven@judithripka.com
JUDITH RIPKA
Perhaps more than any other designs, Romance collection bangles are Judith Ripka’s most iconic creations. Available in 18K yellow gold with diamonds
and colorful precious gemstones, there are limitless varieties, and they’re intended to be mixed and
matched with abandon. With their hallmark Ripka
handiwork—detail-intensive metalwork, a mix of
matte and polished surfaces, and loads of vintageinspired flourishes—there’s no better way to start
collecting the designer’s jewelry (from $2,300).
| Where to Buy | Available at Judith Ripka,
777 Madison Avenue, New York City.
Visit www.judithripka.com.
Corporate Contact: Steven Eliades,
Phone: (212) 517-8200,
Email: steven@judithripka.com
JUDITH RIPKA
Displaying a knack for seductive color, Judith Ripka
Flower earrings are a jewelry staple with an appeal
that transcends generations and trends. Each canary crystal petal blazes with light that bathes the
face in a warm glow. Touches of diamond and yellow
sapphire lend the earrings a dressed-up character
that lets them make an easy leap from work to weekend ($12,500).
| Where to Buy | Available at Judith Ripka,
777 Madison Avenue, New York City.
Visit www.judithripka.com.
Corporate Contact: Steven Eliades,
Phone: (212) 517-8200,
Email: steven@judithripka.com
JUDITH RIPKA
With an exuberant burst of fruity color, the gems in
Judith Ripka’s Ambrosia bracelet are a reminder that
fine jewelry can be light-hearted fun. Reminiscent of
an antique charm bracelet, each weighty 18K yellow
gold link has a unique character and a chunky faceted gemstone to go along with it. Passing from pastel
rose quartz to intense pink tourmaline to sunny yellow sapphire, the bracelet captures a full spectrum
of happy color ($33,000).
| Where to Buy | Available at Judith Ripka,
777 Madison Avenue, New York City.
Visit www.judithripka.com.
Corporate Contact: Steven Eliades,
Phone: (212) 517-8200,
Email: steven@judithripka.com
JUDITH RIPKA
At the pinnacle of Judith Ripka’s collection is a select number of high jewelry creations that are the
most opulent expressions of her unmistakable style.
One such piece is the Deco Estate cuff in 18K yellow gold with close to 16 carats of round, brilliantcut diamonds. With her sharp eye for craftsmanship,
Ripka reworks familiar architectural references with
a feminine, luxurious spirit ($60,000).
| Where to Buy | Available at Judith Ripka,
777 Madison Avenue, New York City.
Visit www.judithripka.com.
Corporate Contact: Steven Eliades,
Phone: (212) 517-8200,
Email: steven@judithripka.comm
JUDITH RIPKA
Only one woman will be able to own Judith Ripka’s
knockout Scallop Chandelier earrings. The one-off
design defines special occasion jewelry. Nearly 16
carats of diamonds, each hand-set in 18K yellow
gold, glimmer from every angle. With a fluid, open
style that makes them exceptionally easy to wear,
even as they make a major statement, the earrings
capture the essence of Judith Ripka’s feminine, sophisticated look ($90,000).
| Where to Buy | Available at Judith Ripka,
777 Madison Avenue, New York City.
Visit www.judithripka.com.
Corporate Contact: Steven Eliades,
Phone: (212) 517-8200,
Email: steven@judithripka.com
JUDITH RIPKA
Fontaine rings from Judith Ripka radiate icy, bright
color that stands out against a backdrop of intricately
worked sterling silver and 18K yellow gold. Choose
from semi-precious gemstone solitaires like blue
topaz, canary crystal or mint quartz, each secured
by whimsical heart-shaped prongs with diamonds at
the center. The combination of romantic detail that
feels plucked from an antique jewelry box and highly
polished, modern finishing strikes an alluring, contemporary balance ($700 each).
| Where to Buy | Available at Judith Ripka,
777 Madison Avenue, New York City.
Visit www.judithripka.com.
Corporate Contact: Steven Eliades,
Phone: (212) 517-8200,
Email: steven@judithripka.com
JUDITH RIPKA
Mixing metals has long been a Judith Ripka signature. Wreathed in 18K yellow gold, the diamond
accents on the Lenox necklace and pendant garner extra attention. And touches of gold along the
mainly sterling silver design give extra dimension
and depth. Hand-finished texturing on every surface
adds to the rich effect that makes the collection one
of the brand’s bestsellers (Pendant: $1,450; necklace: $550).
| Where to Buy | Available at Judith Ripka,
777 Madison Avenue, New York City.
Visit www.judithripka.com.
Corporate Contact: Steven Eliades,
Phone: (212) 517-8200,
Email: steven@judithripka.com
kara ross
Kara Ross’ jewelry design started at the age of 13,
with a trip to Africa and a piece of native tourmaline. She created a square cut ring from the stone
and surrounded it with diamonds set on an 18K gold
band. She never lost the touch.
Now a Gemological Institute of America certified gemologist, Ross has spent five years designing elegant pieces with character and imagination.
Prompted by a need for uniqueness and inspired by
alternative materials such as marcasite, lava and
chalcedony, Ross creates the types of pieces you
would expect to find at a bazaar—with the luxury of
a master jeweler.
With a minimalist vibe and architectural look, her
cuffs, earrings, necklaces and rings showcase vibrantly-colored stones and sharp angles to produce
a jewelry version of a Pucci scarf. The pieces exhibit
an modern Italian look with their elongated gems,
simple forms and sleek, curved gold accents. Her
fire opal ring (top) illustrates her affinity for more
unusual gemstones while the pavé diamonds and
18K gold braided wire highlight her more conventional side ($16,278). Likewise, the triple oval earrings (bottom) use blue topaz, a traditional birthstone, with the more exotic rock crystal and peach
moonstone. Just add diamonds and it completes the
combination of luxury and eccentric ($8,441).
| Where to Buy | Kara Ross Jewelry is available at
Bergdorf Goodman in New York.
Visit kararossny.com.
Corporate Contact: Brent Neal,
Phone: (212) 223-7272,
Email: elizabeth@kararossny.com
k brunini jewels
Designers who head outdoors for inspiration tend
stick to nature’s softer side: flowers and butterflies
typically prevail. Those creatures feature in some
of the pieces Katie Brunini creates too, but she pays
equal heed to some of nature’s darker aspects. In
Katie Brunini’s world, spider webs, vertebrae, and
coiled serpents have a beauty all their own.
The Spirit Animals collection from K Brunini Jewels
(pictured) taps into the notion that we each have an
animal alter ego, be it, among others, a slow-paced
snail that carries a protective shell everywhere it
goes or an octopus with its always grasping reach
(18K gold snail ring with carved elk antler snail
and sea shell accented with diamonds, $18,125;
18K gold Octopus Queen pendant with yellow gold
crown, diamonds and seed pearl rosary, $6,000;
18K gold Twig Neck Chain with bud drop and
diamonds, $12,190).
Of course, there’s no need to buy into the spiritual to
appreciate the special appeal of the range of all the
different creatures. Using offbeat materials like bone
and horn paired with the occasional bits of pearls, precious gems and gold, the hand-wrought, limited editions are masterworks from an exceptional designer.
| Where to Buy | Katie Brunini jewelry is available
at Roseark Jewelry in West Hollywood.
Visit kbrunini.com.
Corporate Contact: McKenzie Santimer,
Phone: (858) 259-8779,
Email: mckenzie@kbrunini.com
Kwiat
Matching and cutting gemstones perfectly is the
foundation of truly exceptional fine jewelry. There’s
no brand that has a better handle on those delicate
arts than Kwiat. The company was founded more
than a century ago and built a reputation as a premier diamond cutter, supplying gems to prestige
jewelry houses. Decades later Kwiat launched a jewelry collection under its own well-regarded name.
Today, Kwiat’s jewelry stands out for its romantic,
feminine lines. Often designs feature open, lacy 18K
gold settings that place its magnificent gems center stage. And as a company with a heritage dating
back more than hundred years, the fashions of the
intervening eras crop up frequently. The Vintage collection features Art Deco and Edwardian flourishes.
And to celebrate the 100-year anniversary, a series of
11 one-of-a-kind designs were created to represent
styles from each of its decades. Florals also appear
frequently among its collections: The name Kwiat,
after all, is Polish for flower. (18K white gold Kwiat
Vintage ring with diamonds and sapphire, $3,000).
| Where to Buy | Kwiat jewelry is available at select fine jewelry retailers and the flagship Madison
Avenue Kwiat boutique. Visit kwiat.com.
Corporate Contact: Stanley Lungo,
Phone: (212) 725-7777,
Email: sales@kwiat.com
la nouvelle bague
At La Nouvelle Bague the focus is clear: all enamel,
all the time. Virtually every piece from the brand,
which was founded in 1936, has touches of the colorful ornamentation. Its workshops are located in Florence where over 100 goldsmiths create pieces that
marry traditional technique and contemporary style.
The far ranging variation in La Nouvelle Bague’s catalog boggles the mind. Many use exuberant patterns
and gemstones and color palettes adjust to trend.
The recent Images From India collection (above) introduces an assortment of bangles, earrings, pendants and rings in spicy shades to the lineup (bangles
in colored enamel with diamonds, all, price upon request) while the Flowers of the Night collection features amorphous patterns in black and white.
Testing the waters beyond enamel jewelry, there are
items like the Rose di Samaracanda cocktail rings
(below). Chunky pastel gemstones are the centerpiece of rings that leave polished gold uncovered,
and add touches of diamonds for extra glitz (rose
quartz ring; blue chalcedony ring, both, price upon
request).
| Where to Buy | La Nouvelle Bague jewelry is
available at select fine jewelry retailers.
Visit lanouvellebague.it.
Corporate Contact: Sergio Piazza,
Phone: 39-0-131-973-411,
Email: sergio.piazza@ditgroup.it
le vian
For hundreds of years the Le Vian family dealt with
the most famous stones in history, such as the Kohi-Nur diamond and bejeweled Peacock Throne. And
since 1950, Le Vian Jewelers has never failed to stun
with their extraordinary pieces. Ancient Persian
techniques have given way for innovative designs,
such as the twisting of diamonds into a rope-like
necklace. But Le Vian never strays from its Middle
Eastern roots. Using only the most-skilled craftsman and highest-quality materials, the company
has produced fantastic jewelry from every major
gem on earth.
While show pieces like the Fiesta Bowl Queen’s tiara keep up the royal commissions, it’s Le Vian’s
simple play with color that truly showcases the
gems. Whether it’s indigo tanzanite hanging from
stark white pearls or rich emeralds set against
brilliant-cut diamonds, the pieces define luxury and
classic elegance.
The current collection hits the sweet tooth – for chocolate diamonds. Naming the dark-colored stones as
the next big trend, Le Vian has mixed dark chocolates
with milk chocolates in rose gold, built settings that
highlight the contrasts among the various shades of
brown, and developed new cuts to change the refraction of light on the stones (18K gold snake bangle
with rubies, sapphires and diamonds, $18,000).
| Where to Buy | Levian is available at select fine
jewelry retailers. Visit levian.com.
Corporate Contact: Eddie LeVian,
Phone: (516) 466-7200,
Email: eddielevian@levian.com
Leslie greene
For Leslie Greene, inspiration is never in
short supply. The daughter of a textile
designer, she’s had a lifelong fascination with fashion and architecture
—she’s even an avid antiques collector. Those disciplines figure into her
eponymous, decade-old jewelry collection. Her Couture line in delicately
worked 18K gold features the sort of arabesque, navette, and floral patterns that
evoke Old World artistic traditions. Early on,
her signature designs were wide filigree bracelets daubed in diamonds. The brand has since developed a complete collection with options from bangle
bracelets to hoop earrings.
Leading the latest wave of fine jewelry designers
to begin working in sterling silver, Greene recently
debuted a collection in the metal. For the designer,
crafting jewelry in a new material has been a creative
boon. She sees it as a way to “experiment...and do
things that are a less classic” than her 18K Couture
21
collection. Dark, moody oxidized finishes and bigger,
bolder construction are a
few of the features that
give new dimension to
the Leslie Greene look
(18K gold and sterling
silver Renaissance earring, $1,925; 18K gold and
sterling silver Monterey medallion with diamonds, $1,155;
Sterling silver Blisse diamond antiqued cuff, $1,895).
| Where to Buy | Leslie Greene jewelry is available
at select fine jewelry retailers.
Visit lesliegreene.com.
Corporate Contact: Ellaine Day,
Phone: (516) 829-8988,
Email: ellaine@lesliegreene.com
leviev
A relatively newcomer to the high-end diamond
business, Leviev has established itself as a premier
jeweler since the opening of their first store on London’s Old Bond Street in 2006. Known for their rare
and extraordinary diamonds, Leviev owns its mines,
cuts and polishes the rough diamonds, and designs
each piece to create an unmistakable look. From
tradition engagement and wedding band sets to exquisite one-of-a-kind pieces, Leviev features white,
blue, pink, yellow, and green diamonds set in platinum and gold.
Their collections include such jewels as the
8.61 carat Radiant-cut Fancy Intense green diamond, which is the largest natural color Fancy
Intense green diamond the GIA has ever graded.
The vibrant stone is set in a flower-inspired ring,
flanked by 1.39 of brilliant-cut pink diamond
pavé. Leviev also plays with the cuts of diamonds,
mixing various round brilliant-cut, pear-shaped and
marquise-cut diamonds in the Belle Epoque waterfall earrings. A counterpart to the waterfall necklace, the earrings total 38 carats set in platinum
for a shimmering drop of stones that flows with the
movement of the body.
In fact, many of Leviev’s pieces follow the fluidity of
movement as a general aesthetic, intended for the
modern woman. The diamond “Scarf” necklace is
made to be tied like a silk scarf, draping delicately
over the body. The 18K yellow gold necklace is comprised of 351 pear, oval, radiant- and brilliant- cut
fancy yellow and white diamonds, totaling 214.91
carats. Hardly the weight of a scarf, but a statement
piece to be treasured for a lifetime.
Complementing the scarf necklace is the 55.79 carat
yellow and white diamond bracelet set in 18K yellow
gold and platinum (pictured). Like the necklace, the
bracelet lays elegantly on the wrist, wrapping like
a second skin. The 66 oval, cushion, radiant, and
round-brilliant-cut diamonds will have you glittering
like the sun (price upon request).
| Where to Buy | Leviev is available at Leviev boutiques in London, New York, Dubai, and Moscow.
Visit leviev.com.
Corporate Contact: Patrick Toth,
Phone: (212) 763-5300,
Email: patrick@leviev.com
links of london
It started with a bizarre request for a pair of fishshaped cufflinks. Now a three-time winner for Jewelry Brand of the Year at the UK Jewelry Awards,
Links of London has flourished with its contemporary classics, wearable from day to evening, for almost 20 years. And they aren’t all sea creatures.
Launching this season, Links of London’s Anthology
Collection steps up the line with its lockets, pendants,
onyx and diamonds. Featuring designs inspired by
the sense of discovery, the jewelry draws from traditional motifs in nature and various cultures. The
onyx and rock crystal locket earrings (above) have a
subtle botanical etching flanked by 18K gold ($675).
The earrings echo a design on the Capsule Pendant
necklace, an oblong locket native to Japan.
Links of London also took their own approach to the
inro design, creating the Diamond Capsule necklace (right). With 11.1 carats of pavé black and white
diamonds and 18K white gold chain, the piece took
more than 50 hours to create. While the 774 diamonds seem to be the treasure, the modern inro offers a secret chamber for those items even closer to
the heart ($58,000).
| Where to Buy | Links of London is available at
Links of London boutiques, Bergdorf Goodman in
New York, and Saks Fifth Avenue.
Visit linksoflondon.com.
Corporate Contact: Harley Scheck,
Phone: (212) 588-1177,
Email: harleyscheck@linksoflondon.com
Loree Rodkin
With a rock and roll edge, Loree Rodkin jewelry blurs
the line between modern and medieval. Showcasing
chain bracelets, Gothic crosses and Eastern-inspired
motifs, her collections are full of bold pieces with
big beads and thick metalwork. From hand-etched
rings to weighty silver bangles, her statement pieces
scream confidence.
Rodkin was strongly influenced by her worldwide
travels when designing her pieces. Most notably,
you can see her affinity for European architecture,
especially late medieval and Gothic styles. The yellow gold pear-shaped earrings (top) are a beautiful example. The abstracted fleur de lis flower-like
center recalls the popular shape used in Gothic
structures ($32,700). Likewise, the use of pointedarch cutouts in the Gothic Butterfly ring (below right)
again echos the aesthetic of Gothic cathedrals. Made
of white gold with black rhodium ruby accents, the
ring showcases Rodkin’s craftsmanship and most
recognized muse ($22,300).
Her fascination with Eastern cultures and religion
is also seen in her hand-carved medallions, which
feature skulls, crosses and other religious symbology, as well as her drop earrings and her enormous
cocktail rings. Citing the temples of Japan as another architectural influence, Rodkin’s chandelier
earrings are clearing inspired by the pagodas of
Buddhist structures (White gold and black rhodium
multi-colored diamond rectangle etched-ring with
turquoise center, $18,825).
| Where to Buy | Loree Rodkin jewelry is available
at select Neiman Marcus stores and select fine jewelry retailers. Visit loreerodkin.com.
Corporate Contact: Robin LeMesurier,
Phone: (310) 273-7367,
Email: robin@loreerodkin.com
luca carati
Luca Carati’s approach to jewelry design is part
retro, part hyper-modern. One of a dwindling number of jewelry producers capable of start-to-finish
production in its own factory, Luca Carati’s artisans supervise the quality of every piece that bears
the brand’s name. It may take a decidedly vintage
outlook when it comes to uncompromising quality,
but that has no impact on the style of its jewelry. No
matter the inspiration for a collection, Luca Carati
takes a cutting-edge eye to its themes.
Among its top sellers is the Ginza collection (pictured). It edges semiprecious gemstones—milky
quartz, onyz, moonstone—in sensuous, snaking
leaves (moonstone and diamond Ginza pendant,
$4,780). Working in white and and pink gold (Car-
ati’s has a particulary flattering tone), the brand
never hits a saccharine note, even when taking on
a conventionally sweet subject. The Clouds collection uses the antique textiles as a model for a surprisingly architectural design. Those who want to
see classic, high-carat diamond jewelry given the
same sharply modern treatment are in luck. Luca
Carati produces gleaming diamond jewelry, too.
| Where to Buy | Luca Carati jewelry is available
at select fine jewelry retailers worldwide.
Visit www.lucacarati.it.
Corporate Contact: Emiliana Caprioglio,
Phone: 39-0-131-954-533,
Email: emiliana@lucacarati.it
marco bicego
Marco Bicego’s namesake brand has been around
for less than a decade but has already developed
an instantly recognizable look with detail-rich gold
jewelry. Steeped in the traditions of the goldsmith’s
art since childhood, Bicego has a commitment to
maintaining that heritage of craftsmanship by applying it to 21st-century design.
With names like Santorini, Acapulco, Madagascar
and Dune, it’s apparent that Bicego’s collections
draw from global influences. The jewelry often
has a note of the exotic, featuring touches like
organic shapes or tantalizing colored gemstones
alongside 18K white, yellow or rose gold. The
Jaipur collection strikes a sophisticated chord;
hand-chiseled gold surfaces stand on their own
or embrace prism-cut gems like green tourmaline, amethyst and lemon citrine.
Moving beyond his mastery for creating gold jewelry that can be a full-time fixture on the body, the
brand is expanding its reach to satisfy clients who
want rare and one-of-a-kind Marco Bicego pieces.
The Raggi Di Luce necklace (pictured) takes the
brand in a dramatic new direction—it’s of a scale
never seen before from Bicego ($131,360).
| Where to Buy | Marco Bicego jewelry is available at Saks Fifth Avenue department stores and
select fine jewelry retailers.
Corporate Contact: Leslie Goodman,
Phone: (877) 551-7257
Website: www.marcobicego.com
martin flyer
Martin Flyer is a renown bridal jeweler founded in
Manhattan’s Bowery neighborhood more than 65
years ago. Now a preeminent bridal jewelry brand,
the company has expanded its reach to fashion fine
jewelry. Martin Flyer masters pieces of classic design, such as three-prong opera length necklaces,
three-stone rings, and elegant, one-of-a-kind diamond bracelets.
The signature FlyerFit (top) is the brand’s true claim
to fame. Designed with engagement sets in mind,
the FlyerFit eliminates the gap between engagement ring and wedding band so often complained
about by brides. The resulting fit is a seamless union
between the two (Platinum FlyerFit micropavé diamond “flower” semi-mount, $5,000).
Handcrafted in-house, Martin Flyer jewelry uses
Hearts and Arrows brilliant-cut diamonds and 18K
gold and platinum. Illustrating their expertise beyond bridal, the platinum and 18K white gold earrings (middle) feature 2.28-carat natural fancy yellow
pear-shaped diamonds ($45,000) and the Eternity
Band (bottom), an anniversary gift staple, boasts
three rows of diamons set in platinum ($35,500).
| Where to Buy | Martin Flyer jewelry is available
at Smyth Jewelers. Visit martinflyer.com.
Corporate Contact: Joshua Kaufman,
Phone: (212) 840-8899,
Email: josh@martinflyer.com
Martin Katz
Martin Katz seems to be the jack-of-all-trades jeweler. Some of his best sellers are his micro-work
diamond engagement rings in platinum or white
gold, a central diamond flanked by tiny, individually
set diamonds. Yet some know him for his vast collection of vintage estate jewelry and others see him as
“Jeweler of the Stars”—he has decked out more than
200 celebrities for the Oscars, Emmys, and Golden
Globes. Katz was also behind the Victoria Secret $5
million Black Diamond Fantasy Miracle Bra and the
most expensive wedding dress ever, a $12-million
garment designed by Renee Strauss and laced with
150 carats of diamonds.
The Los Angeles-based jeweler has produced exquisite, contemporary pieces in designs that fuse vintage
inspirations like Art Nouveau with modern aesthetics
and candy-colored gemstones. The 18K white gold
ruby ring (top) features a central stone of almost eight
carats flanked boldly by 18 rose cut diamonds and
the 18K white gold Black Diamond earrings (bottom)
showcase almost 16 carats of the dark-hued jewel in
two cushion-shaped stones and 20 beads (both, price
upon request). A master in the bridal arena as well,
Martin Katz designs one-of-a-kind stunners and dazzling originals for the special day.
| Where to Buy | Martin Katz jewelry is available at
Martin Katz in Los Angeles and New York.
Visit martinkatz.com.
Corporate Contact: Jay Carlile,
Phone: (310) 276-7200,
Email: jay@martinkatz.com
ELITE RECOMMENDS
Masriera
Lluís Masriera, the artist that truly put his
family’s jewelry company on the map in the
late 19th and early 20th century, had a feeling that his work would endure and acted accordingly. He preserved nearly all of his original
jewelry molds and drawings during a time when
most disposed of such records after production. The
archive he created is the foundation for the jewelry
that Masriera produces to this day: Each piece is an
original design from that archive and is faithful to
the century-old blueprint, right down to the colors that appear in the brand’s stunningly vibrant,
translucent enamel.
Early on, capturing the spirit of the burgeoning
Art Nouveau movement, Barcelona-based Masriera’s output brimmed with magical florals, insects,
and curving female forms. Whether in brooches, delicate drop earrings, rings or lacy
necklaces, Masriera pieces are lush
masterworks in gold with spectacular colored enamel and gemstones
(pictured: 18K yellow gold pendant brooch with brilliant-cut
5
diamonds, fired enamel and a cultured pearl, price
available upon request).
As the artistic landscape developed and modernist
ideals spawned the Art Deco movement, Masriera’s
collection evolved apace. It adopted the geometry
and angularity of the age while maintaining its
characteristic enameling techniques and luminous
color (pictured: 18K yellow gold ring with brilliant
cut diamonds and enamel, price available upon
request). The continued popularity of Masriera’s collections bears out its designer’s
hunch that great design doesn’t have an
expiration date.
| Where to Buy | Masriera jewelry is available at its Barcelona flagship boutique and select
fine jewelry retailers worldwide.
Visit www.masriera.com.
Corporate Contact: Joseph Meli,
Phone: (480) 538-0672,
Email: jjjmeli1@msn.com
Mauboussin
Mauboussin has dubbed itself the jewelry of emotion. According to its CEO Alain Nemarq, that’s because the value of a jewel is not its number of carats,
but “how it makes you feel.” By that standard, the
brand’s mood elevating collections pass the test with
flying colors.
The venerable French company was founded in Paris
in 1827. Early on the brand achieved particular fame
for its use of colored stones, a trait for which it is still
well known. Rings in bon bon-colored gems are its
biggest seller. Trop Fou de Toi is a classic solitaire
ring (below) with a signature Mauboussin cut, but
offerings can veer to the fantastical as in the
new Affranchie collection ring (above) with
a free-form, coiling line of gold and gemstones (18K white gold blue sapphire
and diamond ring, $8,250; Trop Fou de
Toi blue topaz, blue sapphire and diamond ring, $2,150).
| Where to buy | Mauboussin jewelry is available at
Mauboussin boutiques in
New York and Paris. Visit
mauboussin.com.
Corporate Contact:
Caroline Anderson,
Phone: (212) 752-4300,
Email: canderson@
maboussin.us
MCTEIGUE AND MCCLELLAND
Walter McTeigue and Tim McClelland have decades
of experience in gem acquisition and jewelry making, respectively. Their combined knowledge of the
jewelry industry and shared creative vision led them
to join forces to produce jewelry that fulfilled their
idiosyncratic perspective.
With one foot in the present and another in the
traditions of the past, the uninitated don’t quite
know how to classify McTeigue and McClelland jewelry. Produced by skilled artisans
averaging more than thirty years of experience, its jewelry mingles new and old techniques in a single piece. The spot-on unity
appears in its exclusive Dandelion Diamond
Puff Pin (right). There’s a straight-edged, contemporary simplicity at the top of the bud that’s
softened by warm green enamel with a subtle
sheen that rarely appears in contemporary jewelry
($8,500). That same era-mixing balancing occurs in
McTeigue and McClelland’s Jet Blue yellow gold and
platinum necklace (above) with aquamarine cabochons, kyanite oval cabochons, blue sapphire beads,
and brilliant-cut sapphires ($50,000).
| Where to Buy | McTeigue & McClelland jewelry
is available at McTeigue & McClelland boutiques,
Bergdorf Goodman in New York, and select fine jewelry retailers. Visit mc2jewels.com.
Corporate Contact: Kevin McLean,
Phone: (413) 528-6262,
Email: kevin@mc2jewels.com
melissa joy
manning
Melissa Joy Manning, a designer and metalsmith in
Oakland, California, fuses unconventional materials such as fossil wood, Moroccan azurite and ocean
jasper, with modern aesthetics to create statement
one-of-a-kind pieces. With a degree in art history,
Manning studied jewelry design in San Francisco,
Barcelona, and San Miguel de Allende, Mexico. She
combines this education with her interest in indigenous and non-Western cultures in her 14K
and 18K gold and oxidized silver pieces.
What sets Melissa Joy Manning jewelry
apart is the use of reclaimed objects, recycled materials, vintage pendants, and
less-commonly used stones. Her colorful druesy agates, calcites, and quartzes
brighten brushed gold settings and her
black, red and champagne diamonds
accent patterned agate slices. Manning
keeps the settings simple to maintain focus on the unique qualities of the stones,
like the tender striations of Burmese agate
or bullseye quality of Uruguayan stones.
Her jewelry focuses on sustainability and as does
her business. Manning has collaborated with local
and national charities such as Too Precious to Wear,
which promotes alternatives to real coral and educates people about climate control (14K gold necklace with bezel set agat, druzy and prong set bark
agate slice, $1,525; 14K gold necklace with bezel set
pyritized ammonite, $950).
| Where to Buy | Melissa Joy Manning jewelry is
available at select fine jewelry retailers.
Visit melissajoymanning.com.
Contact: Vanessa Laplaud,
Phone: (212) 717-7373,
Email: lilybuginc@aol.com
mikimoto
It’s impossible to explore the history of the pearl
without including Mikimoto. Kokichi Mikimoto
brought the first cultured pearls to market in the
1890s. He and his wife produced the first, perfectly
round cultured pearl. Since then, his company has
designed timeless jewelry from the world’s finest
lusters. Using only the top tier of surface perfection
pearls, Mikimoto has collections in Akoya pearls harvested off the coast of Japan, large South Sea pearls,
rare Black South Sea pearls, traditional freshwater
cultured pearls and ultra-rare, pink Conch pearls.
The lines include contemporary collections, like the
newly-released Moderna 8, pieces designed by artist Giovanna Broggian, and vintage-inspired designs
like the art deco influenced Legacy collection.
The Infinity necklace (above) showcases Black
South Sea cultured pearls with one 11mm Black
South Sea Pearl drop. Accented with 18K white
gold and diamonds, the strand of perfectly matched
pearls is a beautiful demonstration of the matchless quality and pure design that Mikimoto stands
for ($28,000).
| Where to Buy | Mikimoto jewelry is availabe at
Mikimoto in New York, Beverly Hills, South Coast
Plaza, and Las Vegas. Visit mikimoto.com
Corporate Contact: Susan Tennant,
Phone: (212) 457-4600,
Email: stennant@mikimotoamerica.com
mimi so
Fine jewelry that’s keenly attuned to fashion without
being painfully trend-specific is in surprisingly short
supply. It’s a niche that Mimi So, a young jeweler
from a family firmly rooted in the industry, identified
and made her own. Her modern collection in gold
—often coupled with diamonds—speaks to contemporary women in search of jewelry that reflects their
own experience.
Mimi So’s latest is the Jackson collection. The bold
geometric elements have a dual meaning to the designer. First, they’re a reminder of the landscape
she encountered while on holiday with her family in
rustic Jackson Hole, Wyoming. Second, the multisided shape symbolize the many roles she juggles:
wife, mother and entrepreneur, among others. The
highly polished surfaces and bold shape of the metal
has a bold look that that’s entirely of this moment
and its underlying, multi-tasking meaning is something modern women certainly understand (Jackson
diamond necklace, $42,800; Jackson cluster cuff,
$35,800).
| Where to Buy | Mimi So jewelry is available at
the Mimi So boutique in New York, Neiman Marcus
department stores and selectfine jewelry retailers.
Visit mimiso.com.
Corporate Contact: Rica Zaide,
Phone: (212) 300-8600,
Email: rzaide@mimiso.com
MIMI SO
The newest extension of the just-launched Jackson collection includes Gold Skeleton earrings in
18K yellow gold. Clustered together in large, pearshaped drops, the collection’s geometric shapes
have a cool, downtown appeal. Flashes of pavé-set
diamonds highlight a handful of the circles and trapezoids within, so that they’re subtle enough for day
and have the right amount of sparkle for after dark
($6,150).
| Where to Buy | Mimi So jewelry is available at
the Mimi So boutique in New York, Neiman Marcus
department stores and select fine jewelry stores.
Visit mimiso.com.
Corporate Contact: Rica Zaide,
Phone: (212) 300-8600,
Email: rzaide@mimiso.com
MIMI SO
Fans of the brand add to their collections with compulsively stackable bangle bracelets. Variations on
the theme are available from Mimi So’s key collections, including Ludlow (featuring a faceted rock
charm), Lula (an eternity bracelet that comes with
or without diamonds), and Gate B9 (a faceted, slipon bangle). The designer herself wears the 18K
yellow gold bracelets by the armful (from $1,000 to
$6,000).
| Where to Buy | Mimi So jewelry is available at
the Mimi So boutique in New York, Neiman Marcus
department stores and select fine jewelry stores.
Visit mimiso.com.
Corporate Contact: Rica Zaide,
Phone: (212) 300-8600,
Email: rzaide@mimiso.com
MIMI SO
The focal point of Mimi So’s one-of-a-kind Gate B9
ring is a pink tourmaline of extraordinary intensity
and depth. One of a few of unique pieces that she
produces each year, its central gemstone seems to
float within a setting of spiraling 18K yellow gold.
Mimi So’s contemporary interpretation of the classic cocktail ring is compelling from every angle
($34,000).
| Where to Buy | Mimi So jewelry is available at
the Mimi So boutique in New York, Neiman Marcus
department stores and select fine jewelry stores.
Visit mimiso.com.
Corporate Contact: Rica Zaide,
Phone: (212) 300-8600,
Email: rzaide@mimiso.com
MIMI SO
Jasmine flowers—the designer’s favorite—provided
inspiration for one of Mimi So’s newest offerings.
The dome-style cocktail ring is substantial and bold,
but captures the delicacy of the flower for which it’s
named. Graduated tiers of scalloped, 18K gold harbor 1.25 carats of diamonds in total. Its feminine,
modern, versatile look is signature Mimi So. And,
like everything else in her namesake jewelry collection, it was created in the brand’s New York atelier
($7,800).
| Where to Buy | Mimi So jewelry is available at
the Mimi So boutique in New York, Neiman Marcus
department stores and select fine jewelry stores.
Visit mimiso.com.
Corporate Contact: Rica Zaide,
Phone: (212) 300-8600,
Email: rzaide@mimiso.com
MIMI SO
Named for the place she spent an extra-long delay
at Malpensa airport, Mimi So’s Gate B9 collection
shows off her ability to revamp classic styles with an
entirely fresh outlook. Using the angular drawings
she made during her layover, the designer reimagined classic gold links—in So’s rendition they have
facets, each slightly different from the next. The Gate
B9 hoops give an edgy update to a jewelry box essential ($1,600), while the three-tier necklace is a
modern statement piece, complete with nearly three
carats of diamonds placed at irregular intervals
throughout ($32,800). All that airport inconvenience
proved beneficial in the long run—it inspired one of
So’s best-selling collections.
| Where to Buy | Mimi So jewelry is available at
the Mimi So boutique in New York, Neiman Marcus
department stores and select fine jewelry stores.
Visit mimiso.com.
Corporate Contact: Rica Zaide,
Phone: (212) 300-8600,
Email: rzaide@mimiso.com
monica rich kosann
Just about anyone would be more than satisfied with
one successful career. Monica Rich Kosann isn’t one
of those people. Trained at prestigious arts institutions including the Sorbonne, Kosann is an internationally recognized photographer who’s published
three volumes featuring her black and white prints.
Her equally well-received second act is a collection
of heirloom quality jewelry. Kosann’s frequent flea
market visits in pursuit of antique pieces to frame
her photography planted the seed for her namesake
collection in sterling silver and and 18K yellow gold.
Perfectly weighted chains that recall 19th century
watch fobs and delicate hand engraved metalwork
are examples of fine craftsmanship that can be hard
to come by today. Necklaces and bracelets uniformly
feature photo frames among their ornaments and
have the feel of instant keepsakes. Collectors introduce new charms along the way—Kosann’s ever
evolving lineup now includes those too, plus minaudieres and desktop frames. With a growing clutch of
fans, it’s a good thing the photographer-cum-designer is a master of multitasking (14K yellow gold
toggle bracelet with two floral image cases, $3,900).
| Where to Buy | Monica Rich Kosann jewelry is
available at Bergdorf Goodman in New York, select
Neiman Marcus department stores and select fine
jewelry retailers. Visit mrkphoto.com.
Corporate Contact: Rod Kosann,
Phone: (203) 971-3115,
Email: rod@monicarichkosann.com
nanis
Jewelry from Nanis evokes thoughts of carefree,
eternally sunny days. Casually elegant lengths of
layering-perfect necklaces, wide bracelets, and
swingy earrings are the brand’s key elements, all
rendered in the glowing, painstakingly finished 18K
gold that is a Nanis signature.
The instantly recognizable oval loop design from its
earliest, now classic, Olga collection is the brand’s
perennial best seller. It figures in almost 100 Nanis
pieces, including pendants in an oversized single
oval or bracelets with a multitude of dangling ones,
entirely in gold or fully covered in diamonds. Another
favorite style is Q-ori (pictured), which features infinite uses of a heart pattern with a combination of polished and scratched surfaces that yield unexpected
depth (18K yellow gold big heart pendant, $11,350;
18K yellow gold ring with diamonds, $3,810).
As its offerings expand, Nanis has added more gemstones to the mix. New collections like Bon Bon
feature gemstone charms in enticing candy hues;
they’re clustered on top of rings and swing from
necklaces, bracelets and earrings. In the Lentil collection, smoky topaz fills the center of the oval that
appears in so much of the brand’s jewelry.
| Where to Buy | Nanis jewelry is available at
Nanis boutiques in Vicenza, Dubai, Cairo, and Miami.
Visit nanis.it.
Corporate Contact: Wayne Richter,
Phone: (561) 213-3319,
Email: wayne@nanis.it
oscar
heyman
brothers
Thanks to a stint in the Fabergé workshops
of Russia and a career-prompting job at
Cartier in New York, Oscar Heyman first
gained prominence almost a century
ago as a jeweler specializing in highend stones and platinum. From the
start, and still today, the family-run business focuses on European-style, by-hand
craftsmanship, inventing its own tools and working
completely in-house, right down to alloying its platinum and gold. In fact, Oscar Heyman Brothers holds
various patents for manufacturing techniques and is
one of the last great American jewelry firms.
Set in classic, feminine styles, the pieces show off
Heyman’s stellar collection of precious gems, including sapphires, rubies, emeralds and high quality
diamonds. Now onto its third generation, the company continues to produce favorites like the gardenia,
pansy, and orchid brooch, which won Best of Show at
the 1939 World’s Fair, while coming up with innovative designs. It’s easy to understand the company’s
much-lauded status when you look at pieces like
the gold and platinum cat brooch (top) with rubies,
emeralds, and diamonds ($49,000) and the platinum
pear-shaped sapphire and diamond necklace (middle) with more than 60 carats of stones ($370,000).
Even the ladylike platinum and round pearl earrings
(bottom) take it up a notch with pear-shaped diamonds ($52,000).
| Where to Buy | Oscar Heyman jewelry is available at Oscar Heyman in New York and select fine
jewelry retailers. Visit oscarheyman.com.
Corporate Contact: Ron Boyd,
Phone: (806) 373-1067,
Email: sales@duncanboyd.com
palmiero jewellery design
There’s not another jewelry brand creating the
kind of far out masterpieces that come from the
workshops of Palmiero Jewellery Design in Valenza, Italy. Carlo Palmiero transforms his materials into breathtaking works of art pulsing with
movement and saturated color. The first time
wearing a Palmiero piece fires the imagination
with “How’d he do that?” wonderment.
A more literal approach to the fine art tradition of
which he is surely a part is the Tribute collection
wherein famous 20th century works of modern art
are rendered in gemstones. Works by Matisse and
Kandinsky take on new allure in precious gems.
The Man in Jazz ring (pictured) places a black diamond figure from a Matisse canvas against a sapphire sky ($17,150).
Chiefly known for rings that echo forms found in
nature—flowers, feathers, flames—and whose
nuances of color are captured using a degradé
effect that morphs from light to dark, Palmiero’s
technique requires extremely precise stone selection. Deft molding gives the pieces an airiness
that belies its substantial 18K gold structure.
| Where to Buy | Palmiero Jewellery Design is
available at select fine jewelry retailers around
the world. Visit palmierogioielli.com.
Corporate Contact: Daniela Mancassola,
Phone: 39-0-131-952-769;
Email: daniela@palmierogioielli.com
piaget
Piaget has been a leader in the watchmaking world for more than a century,
originally as workshop making precision crafted mechanical movements,
later as a household name associated with luxury and technical innovation. Its earliest jewelry creations
were ornate watches, sometimes
with so many gems only its wearers knew of their time-telling
function, an evolution made
possible by Piaget’s mastery
of super thin movements.
Today, Piaget offers fullfledged fine jewelry collection,
including delight-inspiring oneoff pieces. In the Limelight Paris-
New York collection, a splashy 18K white
gold sautoir borrows from New York’s
Chrysler building for its Art Deco design (pictured). One of several pieces
that references Paris and Manhattan
landmarks, the Limelight necklace
features 381 brilliant-cut diamonds,
19 fancy-cut diamonds and 368 sapphires ($440,000).
| Where to Buy | Piaget jewelry is
available at Piaget in New York.
Visit piaget.com.
Corporate Contact: Lae Xavier,
Phone: (212) 246-5555,
Email: laercio.xavier@piaget.
com
picchiotti
Family-owned Picchiotti is in the business of cre-
white rosebuds and just-opened tulips. The Royal
ating timeless jewelry. You won’t find a trendy,
Star collection’s bracelet and earrings (pictured)
disposable piece in the lot. Created from start to
in black and white diamonds has graphic, modern
finish at its Valenza, Italy, atelier, much of its jew-
glamour (bracelet, $52,400; earrings, $25,550).
elry consists of one-of-a-kind designs to ensure
the exclusivity its clients demand.
| Where to Buy | Picchiotti is available at Picchiotti boutiques around the world, Neiman Marcus
Classic motifs like hearts and flowers occur
department stores, and select fine jewelry retail-
frequently, but that doesn’t mean that Picchiotti
ers. Visit picchiotti.it.
repeats itself. Its designers play with scale, texture and color so that each variation on the theme
stands apart from its predecessors as a singular
work. The variety in its repertoire of flower designs alone is dizzying: There are spider orchids
in diamonds and touches of ruby, tightly wound
Corporate Contact: Maria Carola Picchiotti,
Phone: 39-0-131-953-081,
Email: mariacarola@picchiotti.it
piero
milano
Milan-based Piero Milano produces elegant jewelry
that walks the fine line between everyday indulgences and special occasion dressing. The wide ranging
looks have an exuberant spirit with an eye for the
contemporary. Its diverse, easy-to-wear pieces in
gold and flashes of gemstones have made it one of
Italy’s top jewelry brands.
Piero Milano’s pearl collection (pictured) is a key example of the way it breathes new life into a classic.
It’s impossible to harbor notions of pearls as ultraconservative jewels when they’re set at the center
of concentric, diamond-laced circles. The gems take
on an edgy appeal and appear as though they’re at
the center of a sparkling orbit (rings, from $3,355;
earrings, $9,760).
The brand also boasts a deep inventory of glamorous, stylized pendants so versatile, you’ll never
feel the need to take them off. Worn layered,
they have a breezy, sophisticated air.
| Where to Buy | Piero Milano jewelry
is available at Piero Milano in Milan and
New York. Visit pieromilano.it.
Corporate Contact: Rosella Benzi,
Phone: 39-0-286-90-490,
Email: b.rosella@pieromilano.it
Porrati
Porrati jewelry is an expression of no-limits creativity. Its focus is ultra-feminine collections with a sense
of fantasy and modernity. Manufactured in Italy since
it was founded 12 years ago, Porrati jewelry—made
primarily in yellow and white gold with heaps of colorful gemstones—is crafted with meticulous precision that brings life to designs like bursting florals
and sleek abstract forms.
The ocean and sea life are a rich source of inspiration
for the Porrati creative team. Looking closely, one
realizes elegant pearl, diamond and pink sapphirestudded pieces from the Ibiza collection (left) take
the shape of sea urchins and that the hoop-shaped
white and yellow rings dangling from a bracelet are
actually puffer fish. When interpreted by Porrati,
even classic hoops (above) take on extra dazzle—
diamond drops bisect its pink sapphire pair (cocktail
ring with pink sapphires and colored pearls; Athena
earrings, both, price upon request).
The wit and joy in Porrati jewelry has a universal appeal. With the opening of the first Porrati boutique in
Dubai just over a year ago, the world can expect to
hear more from the burgeoning brand.
| Where to Buy | Porrati jewelry is available at the
Porrati boutique in Dubai. Visit robertaporrati.com.
Corporate Contact: Sergio Piazza,
Phone: 39-0-131-973-411,
Email: sergio.piazza@ditgroup.it
ELITE RECOMMENDS
robert lee morris
Robert Lee Morris is frequently the jewelry designer
fellow creatives turn to for a can’t-miss collaboration. He’s worked with Donna Karan since her first
runway show and recently created a jewelry collection with Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen for their
Elizabeth and James fashion line. Such recognition
comes from decades of innovation that’s produced
one iconic creation after another.
Pared down, elegant geometry is often at play in Morris’ work, as in his famous Shifting Plates cuffs that
encircle the wrist with overlapping, curving, rounded
and hammered rectangular planes. Each element of
the design harnesses space and light to enhance the
design’s (and its wearer’s) beauty. The same can be
said of his range of rounded bangles that are a cross
between tribal and futuristic sensibilities.
2
With the recent relaunch of the brand, more icons
are in the offing. The three-row herringbone bracelet is a graphic piece of wearable sculpture in perfectly engineered slices of silver (price available
upon request).
| Where to Buy | Robert Lee Morris jewelry is available at The Robert Lee Morris Gallery in New York.
Visit robertleemorris.com.
Corporate Contact: Kendall Tracewski,
Phone: (212) 633-4948,
Email: kendallt@robertlessmorris.com
Roberto Coin
In just over a decade, Roberto Coin has developed an
international jewelry brand, the scale of which could
easily take generations to create. It’s one of Italy’s
best known companies, with nine boutiques worldwide and sold by more than 1,000 retailers. Even with
such reach, Roberto Coin maintains the hard-toachieve feat of preserving its status as a preeminent
source of luxury jewelry.
Like many top Italian jewelry brands, Roberto Coin
displays expert skill at handling gold, especially in
bold shapes and sizes. The Martellato rings (pictured
left) are a Coin classic with a rich hammered texture
and highly polished surface that reflects light with
mirror-like clarity (18K yellow gold rings, $2,380$2,680). In the Meteorite Parure (pictured, right) the
company produced a sleek, subtly futuristic piece of
ultra luxe jewelry. Loaded with champagne, cognac
and white diamonds, its 18K gold setting virtually dispears—a feat of workmanship that puts the warmth
and beauty of the stones at center stage ($47,200).
The pendant pairs beautifully with the Chocolate
Diamond ring, set in 18K white gold and surrounded
with diamonds (price upon request).
| Where to Buy | Roberto Coin jewelry
is available at Roberto Coin boutiques in
the U.S., Europe, Middle East, and Russia.
Visit www.robertocoin.com.
Corporate Contact: Betty Moss,
Phone: (212) 486-4545, (917) 318-0026,
Email: bmoss@coinusa.com
schoeffel
Schoeffel understands what to do with one of the
most irresistable wonders from the sea—the pearl.
The German luxury brand highlights their natural
beauty with simplicity, a technique that has made it
a leader among pearl companies since 1921.
Unrivaled in terms of pearl selection, Schoeffel has
three distinct jewelry collections: Collier, Classic and
Couture. Collier offers unlimited variations of pearl
strands: long, short or any point in between; in milky
white, delicate pastels, lustrous silver and beyond.
The Classic line features a full range of fashion jewelry with options spanning moods from minimalist to
playful. Couture collection designs define opulence,
with a mixture of diamonds, mother-of-pearl and
precious gemstones; pieces play with light, reflecting and refracting to perfectly frame the each pearl.
The black pearl Couture ring (top) showcases their
knowledge of metals as well, setting the the darkcolored pearl atop a rose gold band. Thirty-two diamonds and 193 pink sapphires whip around the ring,
4.87 carats of rock in a modern contrast of color (top,
18K rose gold ring, $12,500; bottom, 18K white gold
ring, $10,300).
| Where to Buy | Schoeffel Jewelry is available at
Schoeffel boutiques in Europe and at select fine jewelry retailers worldwide. Visit schoeffel-pearl.com.
Corporate Contact: Roxanne Maynard,
Phone: (786) 546-5779,
Email: schoeffelus@gmail.com
ELITE RECOMMENDS
sevan biÇakÇi
Sevan Biçakçi is one of the, hands down, most brilliant jewelry designers working today. A throwback
to the time of small-scale, artisanal ateliers, Sevan’s
35-person Istanbul workshop produces fewer than
500 one-of-a-kind pieces each year.
Sevan’s work is an elaborate hybrid of influences.
His native Turkey and its ancient artistic heritage is a
central inspiration; its classic techniques and motifs
get an edgy update in Sevan’s hands.
Reverse-carved and painted gemstones in his signature rings are feats of fantasy and color. The
painstaking workmanship produces a 3D image beneath the surface of each stone. Carving the stones
is so delicate that for each one that makes it into a
completed piece, an average of eight break during
production. The sacrifice is worth the effort. Images from dancing dervishes to sailing ships to deep
crimson ladybugs come alive within the gems. The
surrounding gemstones, typically diamonds of the
warm, earth-toned variety, are glittering icing on the
cake (pictured: 24K gold and sterling silver handcarved Atlantis ring with painted aquamarine intaglio, white diamonds and cognac diamond accents,
$45,000).
And Sevan’s range has expanded beyond rings. He
now produces a fully realized collection with necklaces, bracelets and earrings (pictured: 24K gold
and sterling silver handmade Cage earrings with
red, blue, green and cognac diamonds, $45,000).
These, too, show off his embrace of ancient artistry
paired with a contemporary color sense that has attracted fans like Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen and
Halle Berry.
| Where to Buy | Sevan Biçakçi jewelry is available
at select fine jewelry retailers.
Corporate Contact: Tiffany Lee,
Phone: (800) 237-9477,
Email: tiffany@vpnyc.com.
5
Shamballa jewels
In Tibetan Buddhism, Shamballa is a mythical kingdom hidden somewhere among the peaks of the
Himilayas, a place representing peace, tranquility,
and pure happiness. In the jewelry world, Shamballa
is the unique company that combines ancient Indian
and Hindu traditions with modern Scandanavian
design. Started in 1994, by Danish designer Mads
Kornerup, Shamballa Jewelry draws inspiration
from Hindu and North African symbols and forms as
well as streamlined Scandanavian aesthetics. Using
teachings from his yoga studies, Kornerup see his
jewelry as an extension of the body, helping the body
connect with the universe and harnessing the
power of gemstones.
Best known for the macramé braided bracelets called Pavé (above), Shamballa has
expanded to necklaces, rings, and
pendants. But it is the bracelet
that truly defines the brand, each
made from 18K gold beads of
precious stones, including diamonds, rubies, emeralds, sapphires, onyx and black spinel (17-carat
white diamond Pavé bracelet, $55,800; 17-carat
black diamond Pavé bracelet, $38,600).
In addition to the Pavé bracelets, Shamballa produces Eastern-culture and meditation-inspired pendants, such as the Sakya Med gold medallion (below). Featuring 14 tiny diamonds, totaling just over a
tenth of a carat, the medallion represents the Sakya
school of Tibetan Buddhism, one that focuses on the
inseparability of good and evil ($5,950).
| Where to Buy | Shamballa jewelry is
available at Barney’s New York.
Visit shamballajewels.com.
Corporate Contact: Aryan Dorodchi,
Phone: 45-33-365-959,
Email:
aryan@shamballajewels.com
shaun leane
Indie British jewelry designer Shaun Leane’s moment in the spotlight has come. Having started his
own jewelry collection ten years ago, he’s also Alexander McQueen’s go-to jewelry guy when the
designer stages his runway shows. Just months
ago, he completed a commision from Boucheron to
create a one-of-a-kind piece to commemorate the
brand’s 150th anniversary.
The first pieces to put Leane’s brand of edgy glamour on the map were his of interlocking Aurora
rings (pictured above). The three-piece set features
gemstones surrouded by rhodium-plated 18K white
gold that intensifies their apparent color and can be
mixed and matched to personalize the look (18K gold
amethyst, ruby and pink tourmaline ring set, $8,400).
Now the collection features earrings, too.
Tribal Deco collection earrings (pictured below)
demonstrate Leane’s propensity for pursuing design
that surprises with unanticipated combinations. The
black and white color, clean geometry and onyx tassels are reminiscent of art deco style. Curved diamond tusks with pointed tips smack of the primitive
($22,905). Put the two together and it’s signature
Shaun Leane.
| Where to Buy | Shaune Leane jewelry is available at Selfridges in London.
Visit shauneleane.com.
Contact: Olivia Norman,
Phone: 44-207-405-4773
Website: olivia.norman@shaunleane.com
Slane & Slane
There aren’t many sister acts as successful as the
one started by Heath and Landon Slane when they
launched their namesake jewelry collection in 1995.
What was at first a collection of sterling jewelry produced with the same attention usually given to pieces
made from precious metals grew to use gold and
gemstones in supremely classic jewelry that becomes
a constant companion.
Pieces most emblematic of Slane & Slane’s look are
wide cuff bracelets with ridges that are a take-off on
the shape of columns or jewelry with circular motifs
reminiscent of rose windows. More recently, the duo
have added more color to the mix and experiment ed
freely with gemstones. A range of versatile, multistrand torsade necklaces in a wide spectrum of colors, such as a new eight strand turquoise and pearl
option (pictured, $2,600), stays true to their original
mission of beauty, care and quality while expanding
the reach of the collection.
| Where to Buy | Slane and Slane jewelry is available at Neiman Marcus department stores and select
fine jewelry retailers. Visit slaneandslane.com.
Corporate Contact: Christie Connick,
Phone: (212) 691-5820 ext. 133,
Email: christie.connick@slaneandslane.com
stefan Hafner
Stefan Hafner doesn’t take the less is more approach
to fine jewelry; its world embraces extraordinary expressions of color, scale and shape that engage the
imagination and promise to get a reaction. Women
come to Stefan Hafner jewelry for a beyond-the-basics look in exceptional gemstones.
Dizzying color is another key feature. A floral parure (pictured) unveiled at the 2008 BaselWorld fair
in burnished white gold embellished with orange
amaranth and dark fushia sapphires heightens the
drama of the realistically curling vines and petals of
the necklace and ring (both, price upon request).
A classic Stefan Hafner design displays a sense of
movement and depth that makes gemstones the
focal point of the piece. In the Diamond Mousse
earrings, a cascade of diamonds flows downward,
narrowing as it descends to a single brilliant
stone. The 18K gold in which the diamonds are
set is nearly invisible. Such pieces are artistic and
technical marvels.
| Where to Buy | Stefan Hafner jewelry is available
at Stefan Hafner boutiques in Moscow and Dubai and
at select fine jewelry retailers.
Visit stefanhafner.com.
Corporate Contact: Sergio Piazza,
Phone: 39-0-131-973-411,
Email: sergio.piazza@ditgroup.it
stephen webster
Jewelry design wiz Stephen Webster started his career at 16, with his first silversmithing course and
never looked back, doing stints with some of the
world’s most prestigious jewelry brands before striking out on his own. He has a special gift for taking
seemingly macabre elements—there aren’t many
jewelers willing to render bats, bugs and skeletons
in diamonds and gold—and making them into finely
wrought, Gothic-edged, objects of desire.
To judge by his celebrity following, Webster’s idiosyncratic notions of beauty resonate with pretty elite
company—his jewelry is a red carpet favorite, plus
Christina Aguilera signed on as the face of the brand
and wears an engagement ring by the designer. The
popularity of the collection has only grown with the
launch last year of men’s and sterling silver jewelry
lines (From top left: 18K white gold Bug Me ring in
diamond, black sapphire, onyx and Chrysocolla center stone, $22,500; 18K white gold Fly by Night Batmoth ring with white diamonds, $18,600; 18K white
gold Fly by Night Batmoth pendulum earrings with
diamonds, $23,000).
| Where to Buy | Stephen Webster jewelry is available at Stephen Webster in London, Neiman Marcus
department stores and select fine jewelry retailers.
Visit stephenwebster.com
Corporate Contact: Amy Boyle,
Phone: (212) 226-6160,
Email: amy@stephenwebster.com
tamara comolli
It’s easy to see why jewelry designer Tamara Comolli
describes the style of her namesake jewelry collection as “casual luxury.” It buzzes with gemstones
in every tone and a refined playfulness that wears
beautifully just about anywhere.
Gemstone drops set in 18K gold caps and clustered in
lengths to form necklaces, bracelets, pendants, and
more, are key the elements in Comolli’s Flamenco
collection (pictured). The well-loved line is available
in semiprecious gems, up to sky’s-the-limit versions
with loads of diamonds. Collectors pick-up a rainbow of options as the color palette evolves according
to fashion’s changing tide (18K white gold Mikado
aquamarine bracelet, $33,800; 18K white gold Mikado drop ring, $3,890).
The new Hippy Glam collection is a bit of a departure
for the brand; trading its signature clustered drops
in translucent stones for beads in earthy, opaque
ocean jasper. Hippy Glam’s luxe bohemian attitude
and bracelets trailing telltale golden droplet charms
still distinguish it as distinctly Tamara Comolli.
| Where to Buy | Tamara Comolli jewelry is
available at the recently-opened Tamara Comolli
boutique in Southampton, New York, Harrod’s
in London and select fine jewelry retailers. Visit
tamaracomolli.com.
Corporate Contact: Alec Floyd,
Phone: (631) 283-7600,
Email: af@tamaracomolliusa.com
tara
Family-run since 1974, Tara & Sons is a renowned
purveyor of the finest Tahitian, South Sea, and Akoya
cultured pearl jewelry. Specializing in a full array
of cultured pearl strands, pendants, earrings, and
rings, and artisan-crafted diamond pieces, Tara has
established a reputation for elegant, contemporary
jewelry.
Exceptionally exquisite is Tara’s Vintage Collection,
which features South Sea pearls in an multitude of
necklaces, earrings, and rings. The 18K white gold
Vintage Collection baroque pearl strand (right) is
the most elegant example of pure South Sea pearls
($65,300). The complementing Vintage Collection
earrings and ring feature rose cut diamonds set in
18K white gold (below). The ring posts 2.20 carats of
diamonds ($6,595) and the earrings total 3.72 carats
of diamonds flanking the round pearl of each stud
($11,000).
Most recently, Tara released the Dancing Diamonds
collection of pearl and diamond jewelry in which
pearls and round, brilliant-cut diamonds hang in a
delicate suspension from open framework in 18K
gold. The faintest movement makes the stones
quiver and cast off elegant sparkle.
| Where to Buy | Tara jewelry is available at Saks
Fifth Avenue, Borsheims stores and select fine jewelry retailers nationwide. Visit tarasons.com.
Corporate Contact: Joe Corritore,
Phone: (402) 391-0400,
Email: joe.corritore@borsheims.com
temple st. clair
Temple St. Clair didn’t intend to become a jewelry
designer when she first arrived in Florence as a
budding linguist more than two decades ago. But,
informed by her love for the history, art and culture of the Renaissance and ancient Western world
(plus a little happenstance), she’s become one of
the leading lights among independent American
jewelry designers. Her work has its own unique
language that’s an evolving hybrid of the present
and past.
Working primarily in 18K gold, St. Clair creates instantly recognizable pieces that incorporate age old
techniques (granulation, spiraling wire work) and
themes (cherubs, astrological reliefs) and reinterprets them for the 21st century. Her Tree of Life pendant (pictured) is a prime example. The round links
of its necklace and the pendant’s subject seems
ready to spring from a 14th century portrait, but its
contrasting matte and polished finishes, minimalist
relief and up-to-the-minute quality are entirely contemporary (pendant, $15,000; chain, $3,400). Also
passionate about rare colored gemstones, one-of-akind pieces like her 18K mixed garnet and diamond
bracelet (below) reveal a strong sense for color and
detail that’s another key to her jewelry’s attaction
($42,500).
| Where to Buy | Temple St. Clair jewelry is available at Saks Fifth Avenue stores and select fine jewelry retailers. Visit templestclair.com.
Corporate Contact: Jamie McGrath,
Phone: (212) 219-8664,
Email: jmcgrath@templestclair.com
Tiffany & Co
The sheer scope of Tiffany & Co’s
world of jewelry is sometimes hard to
fathom. It creates affordable, diminutive silver tokens and multimillion
dollar masterpieces. While the little
blue box from Tiffany & Co is about
as recognizable (and welcome) a gift
wrapper as one could hope for, its
contents could contain vastly different treasures: a carved wood cuff from
Frank Gehry’s collaboration with the
brand, a fully bedazzled, floral parure,
enameled earrings reminiscent of Victorian Jaipur.
Tiffany’s high jewelry Blue Book
Collection, takes advantage of its
clout to bring together top jewelry
craftsmen from one corner of the
world and the very best gemstones
from another.
The collection’s newest focused on elemants most fundamental to Tiffany’s
heritage, especially Art Deco designs
that were the rage when if first came
to prominence, as well as pieces from
the brand’s most famous collaborators. A Jean Schlumberger platinum
garland necklace (above) produces
jawdropping awe at its intense green
tourmalines and arcing 18K yellow
gold and diamond leaves ($385,000).
The platinum diamond and emerald
Archival bracelet (below) gives a light,
contemporary spin to Art Deco features
and, like everything Tiffany touches, is
a timeless beauty ($115,000).
| Where to Buy | Tiffany & Co jewelry
is available at Tiffany & Co boutiques
worldwide. Visit tiffany.com.
Corporate Contact: Michael Boyle,
Phone: (212) 755-8000
todd reed
Independent (and independently-minded) designer
Todd Reed would like the world to know that diamonds don’t have to be cut and faceted to be beautiful. He’s so fond of diamonds in their rough, unpolished state that his entire jewelry collection is
centered on the raw, just-out-of-the earth stones.
Artisanal to the nth degree, Reed’s pieces are made
entirely by hand in a nine-person studio in Boulder,
Colorado. The self-taught goldsmith constantly attends to the production of the pieces that carry his
name. No one aesthetic defines the Todd Reed style:
some pieces feel austere and industrial, others have
an almost antique patina. From wide cuffs scattered
with diamonds to dainty multi-stone drop earrings,
Reed’s designs speak to those craving the unique
(both, prices available upon request).
There’s plenty of reason to be excited about Reed’s
groundbreaking design but here’s one more: the line
was eco-friendly before it became chic—all pieces
use recycled gold exclusively.
| Where to Buy | Todd Reed jewelry is available at
Todd Reed in Boulder, Colorado. Visit toddreed.com.
Corporate Contact: Amy Ash,
Phone: (303) 442-6280,
Email: amy@toddreed.com
tous
What started as a small watchmaker in Manresa,
Spain, is now an international brand, continuously
designing new products for its customers. Tous creates look for everyone, starting with their signature
teddy bear charm up to magnificent one-off pieces
in rare gemstones. While the company produces a
prodigious quantity of jewelry (more than 35 new
collections each year), each piece is guaranteed to be completely handmade and of the
highest quality.
While Tous’ mainstay is pieces in traditional
materials that can be worn every day, the
brand also experiments with organic elements,
like walnut wood and horn, in the new Dakota collection. When clients get the urge to go ornate there’s
the Odelia collection, with its fanciful interpretation
of an orchid-esque flower. The collection, made up of
bracelets, necklaces, and earrings, features an array of materials and accents. The 18K yellow gold set
(shown) features pavé-set white diamonds (bracelet,
$12,720; earrings, $10,158).
| Where to Buy | Tous jewelry is available at Tous
boutiques. Visit tous.com.
Corporate Contact: Neila Nino,
Phone: (212) 219-1444,
Email: nycsoho@tous.com
valente
milano
Rendered in showstopping diamonds,
colored gemstones and gold, plus lesser
used materials such as jet, Valente Milano
doesn’t stop at crafting beautiful jewelry. Its
workshops create jewels that get a reaction.
Not for shrinking violets, Valente
Milano’s collections merge a
host of influences from primitive
to futuristic to create a vocabulary
wholly its own.
A collaboration with star fashion designer John
Galliano took the brand in a new direction while
remaining true to a tradition of highly original,
color-loving design. The Galliano-designed,
limited-edition collection included blooms bursting with petals in rubies, coral, diamond and gold,
plus coin charms in opaque stones like lapis, jet
and carnelian, and a dagger (pictured) with a jeweled handle ($38,000).
Aeterna, a key collection from Valente Milano, develops constantly. With the latest evolution in the line,
its edges have been made sharper and its size magnified. The Aeterna amethyst cocktail ring’s (pic-
tured) weighty 18K gold setting and unusual, unpredictable facets have a powerful impact and off-kilter
beauty ($9,000).
| Where to Buy | Valente Milano
jewelry is available at its flagship boutique
in Milan and select fine jewelry retailers.
Visit valentemilano.com.
Corporate Contact: Massimo Zerbini
at Opera Jewels,
Phone: (305) 534-1974,
Email: operasxm@virgilio.it
van cleef & arpels
Undeniably in the pantheon of great jewelry
brands, Van Cleef & Arpels’ singularity has to
do with a special connection to the world of fantasy and imagination. The heartstopping enchantment that Van Cleef & Apels’ jewelry evokes, not
to mention exceptional gems and workmanship
that’s virually impossible to exceed, put it in a
league of its own.
Van Cleef & Arpels’ creations exist in a dreamy
realm of limitless grace. High jewelry introductions back up the notion. The L’Atlantide collection
offered up unique pieces with a visions of the lost
underwater city of Atlantis. Sea life and vegetation
served as the starting point for a collection that is
by turns understated or baroque, but always possessing a sense of magic and wonder. New pieces
from Ballet Précieux, a collection initiated as a
collaboration with George Balanchine, introduced
the world to a cast of ballerinas in diamonds and
precious gemstones. In the latest collection, Les
Jardins, Italian, French, English and Japanese
gardens are the inspiration for exquisite jewels.
Diamonds, yellow sapphires and cabochon purple
star sapphires compose the boughs and leaves of
the Pavillion D’or pendant (pictured, $305,000).
| Where to Buy | Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry is
available at Van Cleef & Arpels boutiques. Visit
vancleef-arpels.com.
Corporate Contact: Sheryl Dyer,
Phone: (312) 944-8988,
Email: sheryl.dyer@vancleef.com
Verdura
From the outset, aristocrat Fulco di Verdura created
iconic fine jewelry. His 1920s collaboration with Coco
Chanel produced the famous Maltese Cross cuff
that is still a top seller. Later, the elegant, bravura
jewelry developed a loyal following among society
swans and Hollywood’s Golden Age icons like Katharine Hepburn, Joan Crawford and Greta Garbo.
Verdura brooches are collectors’ favorites, too. Instantly recognizable pieces include, seashells embellished with garnet or a leaf full of autumnal-hued
stones like fire opal and tourmaline. The Phoenix
Brooch (above right) features sapphires and diamonds in a magnificent display of Verdura’s craftsmanship ($125,000).
Pieces featuring Byzantine motifs, shapes taken
from nature and weighty gold, often set with unique
gemstone groupings are key features. Classic Verdura pieces are ornate without ostentation: The Leaves
bracelet (below, price upon request) places pink topaz in an intricate weaving of gold and diamonds and
a black opal and sapphire ring captures the mystery
of its rare focal stone (above left, $49,500).
| Where to Buy | Verdura London jewelry is available at Verdura salons in New York, Bergdorf Goodman in New York and select Neiman Marcus stores.
Visit verdura.com.
Corporate Contact: Adele Bove,
Phone: (212) 758-3388,
Email: above@verdura.com
versace
As with all things Versace, the brand’s newly relaunched jewelry collection is sexy, colorful and
downright fun to wear. All the label’s hallmarks:
classical references, vivid palettes and feminine
charm have been translated to fine jewelry in high
shine gold that’s beloved by the glitterati.
From the red carpet-ready Atelier collection, with
its diamonds poured on from every angle, to the
supremely ladylike Fedra, which houses luminous
pearls within a Greek key framework familiar from
the brand’s logo, Versace’s fine jewelry aims to
meet a complete range of jewelry whims, just as its
fashion arm provides every bit of clothing a woman
could want.
Pieces from the Maia collection (pictured), are
available in white gold with diamonds, blue sapphires and onyx or yellow gold with diamonds, pink
sapphires and cogolong. The bright, sunny pieces
have an easy fluidity and pleasing geometry that
make them perfect for adding a dose of gloss and
glamour to any wardrobe ($4,500-$7,600).
Where to Buy: Versace fine jewelry is available at
Versace boutiques worldwide.
Visit versacepreciousitems.com.
Corporate Contact: Renee Cucurullo,
Phone: (212) 317-0224,
Email: reneecucurullo@versaceus.com
Vertu
Vertu, the leading manufacturer of handcrafted
luxury mobile phones established in 1998, unveiled
its first product in 2002. Following this launch, the
brand has since introduced three collections—Vertu
Signature, Vertu Ascent and Vertu Constellation—
to the market. Each collection, assembled by hand
at the brand’s English countryside headquarters,
showcases the company’s commitment to innovation and craftsmanship. Using groundbreaking materials, techniques and services, Vertu has defined
itself as the standard-setting luxury mobile phone,
an essential for the most discerning customers.
To mark its tenth anniversary, Vertu launched its
new Signature collection, the most highly crafted
phone ever made. The first phone to be constructed
by a single artisan, each one is made in very limited
numbers and signed by its creator. Using only the
finest quality materials, the Signature collection features a scratch-resistant, pure crystal sapphire face
that takes more than two weeks to create in a 2000
degree furnace, and a patented keypad containing
4.75 carats of solid ruby bearings that slide on the
surface to prevent friction and wear. All sounds generated by the phone were composed exclusively for
Vertu by Academy Award winning composer Dario
Marianelli and performed by the London Symphony.
Available in white gold, yellow gold and stainless
steel. (Starting at $12,600 for stainless steel).
| Where to Buy | Vertu is available in over 500 of
the finest watch, jewelry and department stores as
well as Vertu Boutiques around the world.
Corporate Contact: Boutique Manager
Zorana Fabre, Phone: (212) 371-8701,
Email: plaza-care@vertu.com,
Website: www.vertu.com
Vhernier
Owing as much to contemporary art as the world of
jewelry design, Vhernier has a modern, sculptural
look all its own. Each piece is composed of a just a
few elements, placing the quality of materials and
construction at the fore. Flat disks, curving circles
and stark rectangles, often repeating, feature prominently in its collections and reflect an almost austere
approach. The shapes would look entirely at home
within the walls of a tony art gallery. When executed
in gold (rose or white) and gemstones, they compose
the perfect jewelry for the woman whose focus is not
on bling.
that the beauty of the less precious stone takes pride
of place and the diamonds become a quietly potent
accent ($55,000). Even fully jeweled pieces don’t neglect form in the process. The Beverly Hills white
gold and diamond earrings (below) and their curved,
grooved circles bring to mind sculpture that invites
you to examine it from every angle ($63,200).
The Plateau necklace (above), in the unexpected
combination of grey agate and diamonds, is a key
illustration of the Vhernier style: Diamonds appear
almost exclusively between the links of grey agate so
Corporate Contact: Anna Maria Castracane,
Phone: (786) 554-8894,
Email: annacastracane@comcast.net
| Where to Buy | Vhernier jewelry is available at
Vhernier boutiques in Europe and the U.S. and at
Saks Fifth Avenue in New York.
Visit vhernier.com.
WELLENDORFf
One of Germany’s leading luxury brands, Wellendorff’s
success is definitely a triumph of style and substance
for more than a century. Originally a jeweler to European royalty, the brand now has international reach
and prestige, based substantially on its classic gold
rope jewelry.
Still family-run, Wellendorff crafts each of its signature 18K rope designs entirely by hand in Pforzheim,
the company’s headquarters from the beginning.
Creating the woven gold is so laborious and detail
intensive that Wellendorff’s craftsmen complete only
20 necklaces from the collection each day. The result
is an infinitely supple piece that is exceedingly comfortable to wear and possesses a timeless, elegance
meant to transcend generations.
Yellow gold is the most popular variety but Wellendorff offers items in rose or white gold, too. Embellishments including hits of colorful enamel, diamond
accents and, of course, the golden “W” charm that
appears on every piece Wellendorff produces enhance the gold with touches of whimsy. While necklaces have been the items most closely associated
with the brand its repertoire continues to expand
and there’s certainly a growing emphasis on bracelets and earrings (pictured: Diamond Game bracelet
in 18K yellow gold and diamonds; Diamond Loops
earrings in 18K yellow gold, prices available upon
request). And its annual, limited edition Rings of the
Year collection is a perennial bestseller.
| Where to Buy | Wellendorff jewelry is available
at Wellendorff boutiques in Germany and select
fine jewelry boutiques.
Visit wellendorff.com.
Corporate Contact: David McMaster,
Phone: (801) 556-5206,
Email: contact@ wellenodrff.com
Yael sonia
Yael Sonia takes much of her inspiration from an unlikely source: toys, or more precisely, their winsome
movements and the childlike pleasure they inspire.
Her jewelry, made in 18K gold and gemstones gives
grown-ups a chance to recapture some of that innocent pleasure and acquire a remarkable piece of
jewelry as part of the bargain.
An early success was the Perpetual Motion collection (pictured). Spherical, semiprecious gemstones
or pearls occupy a 18K gold framework in which they
may move freely back and forth. The deceptively
simple structures have a sculptural allure and are
mini feats of jewelry engineering. To achieve the
seamless geometry that the design requires, the
stones must match precisely in size and the metalwork must fit them exactly. (top, 18K white gold Perpetual Motion Original necklace with Tahitian pearls,
$140,000; bottom, 18K white gold Spinning Wheel
necklace with rolling Tahitian pearls and diamonds,
$64,000).
| Where to Buy | Yael Sonia jewelry is available at
Yael Sonia in New York. Visit yaelsonia.com.
Corporate Contact: Henry Elfering,
Phone: (212) 472-6488,
Email: info@yaelsonia.com.br
yael sonia
Yael Sonia’s classic Perpetual Motion collection includes striking pendants that have a pared down,
minimalist appeal. The movement of the body propels gemstones to sway gracefully in their 18K yellow gold housing. The Circle pendant features green
tourmaline spheres connected by a length of gold
($3,900). In the Pendulum necklace, an amber bead
rocks within a curved, enclosed track suspended
from an elegant, diamond-set boule ($9,800).
| Where to Buy | Yael Sonia jewelry is available at
Yael Sonia in New York. Visit yaelsonia.com.
Corporate Contact: Henry Elfering,
Phone: (212) 472-6488,
Email: info@yaelsonia.com.br
yael sonia
In Yael Sonia’s Spinning Wheel bracelet, blue topaz
orbs housed within a refined 18K yellow gold casing revolve around the wrist. Precious materials
and seamless construction inspire grown-up reverence, while the jewels’ swaying movements produce child-like fascination ($27,000). That union of
exceptional jewelry-making skill and unvarnished
delight is on display in the designer’s Curve earrings in which pink tourmaline ornaments glide
across the center of a gold and diamond arc
($5,100).
| Where to Buy | Yael Sonia jewelry is available at
Yael Sonia in New York. Visit yaelsonia.com.
Corporate Contact: Henry Elfering,
Phone: (212) 472-6488,
Email: info@yaelsonia.com.br
yael sonia
For a customizable jewelry option, jewelry designer
Yael Sonia developed a kit with a rainbow of gemstone options. The flexible design can be worn as a
bracelet or pendant, and by unscrewing the endcap
the gemstones can be changed at any time. Choose
from semiprecious spheres or gold ones with pavéset diamonds ($24,300).
| Where to Buy | Yael Sonia jewelry is available at
Yael Sonia in New York. Visit yaelsonia.com.
Corporate Contact: Henry Elfering,
Phone: (212) 472-6488,
Email: info@yaelsonia.com.br
yael sonia
The interactive spirit of Yael Sonia’s jewelry comes
through in the Spinning collection: Spheres with
pavé-set precious gems, including rubies, emeralds
and diamonds, do turns around a mini, 18K yellow
gold track as the wearer moves. Transparent sapphire crystal tops the collection’s rings and pendants. Choose from styles in 18K yellow gold, with or
without diamonds (pendants from $4,500 to $7,400;
ring with diamonds $8,800).
| Where to Buy | Yael Sonia jewelry is available at
Yael Sonia in New York. Visit yaelsonia.com.
Corporate Contact: Henry Elfering,
Phone: (212) 472-6488,
Email: info@yaelsonia.com.br
yael sonia
A subset of Yael Sonia’s Perpetual Motion collection
is the Drops line. The theme of movement is still
present, but in a subtle new variation. Pear-shaped
aquamarine beads connected by a delicate chain
glide to and fro within the last loop of a graduated
series. High shine white gold with diamond accents
play against the earthy beauty of unfaceted gemstones ($8,400).
| Where to Buy | Yael Sonia jewelry is available at
Yael Sonia in New York. Visit yaelsonia.com.
Corporate Contact: Henry Elfering,
Phone: (212) 472-6488,
Email: info@yaelsonia.com.br
yael sonia
Yael Sonia’s love of toys and the lighthearted reactions they provoke surfaces in her Kites collection.
Using Brazilian gemstones that feature custom cuts
for superior luminosity, the collection has a light,
playful quality and—as is the case with all of the
designer’s jewelry—moves gently with the wearer.
The kite motif is available in pendants, earrings and
rings ($1,100 to $3,800).
| Where to Buy | Yael Sonia jewelry is available at
Yael Sonia in New York. Visit yaelsonia.com.
Corporate Contact: Henry Elfering,
Phone: (212) 472-6488,
Email: info@yaelsonia.com.br
yael sonia
With the Spinning Top collection, Yael Sonia reduces
her fascination with play and the kinetic movement
of toys to its most minimalist form. Consisting of just
two elements, a single piece of 18K yellow gold and
the gemstone that’s set within, the line’s rings and
pendants are bold, sophisticated and whimsical. The
award winning design is available in rings and pendants (amethyst ring $4,800).
| Where to Buy | Yael Sonia jewelry is available at
Yael Sonia in New York. Visit yaelsonia.com.
Corporate Contact: Henry Elfering,
Phone: (212) 472-6488,
Email: info@yaelsonia.com.br
yael sonia
The meaning behind Yael Sonia’s Rock collection
is twofold. First, the faceted gemstones have the
glossy good looks of exceedingly elegant stones.
Second, the designer was toying with the notion that
a woman wants a generously proportioned gemstone, a “rock,” to wear on her finger. The double
entendre falls in line with her lively, engaging designs. Featuring gems that include onyx, amethyst,
pink quartz and aquamarine, the rings can do double
duty as pendants, too. For a high impact look, wear
mulitple rings stacked on a single finger ($1,500 to
$2,440).
| Where to Buy | Yael Sonia jewelry is available at
Yael Sonia in New York. Visit yaelsonia.com.
Corporate Contact: Henry Elfering,
Phone: (212) 472-6488,
Email: info@yaelsonia.com.br
yael sonia
For a more refined take on the signature Rock collection ring, Yael Sonia introduced the Large Faceted
Star version of the style. It has the same irreverent spirit and playful approach as the original with
symetrical facets and touches of diamonds (from
$2,300 to $2,640).
| Where to Buy | Yael Sonia jewelry is available at
Yael Sonia in New York. Visit yaelsonia.com.
Corporate Contact: Henry Elfering,
Phone: (212) 472-6488,
Email: info@yaelsonia.com.br
yael sonia
In her characteristic style, Yael Sonia created the Reverse Fit earrings with moveable ornamentation: In
this case, square or circular elements spin on white
gold posts. Choose from the high contrast pairing of
diamonds against onyx or the subtle mix of diamonds
and milky quartz (from $5,100 to $5,400).
| Where to Buy | Yael Sonia jewelry is available at
Yael Sonia in New York. Visit yaelsonia.com.
Corporate Contact: Henry Elfering,
Phone: (212) 472-6488,
Email: info@yaelsonia.com.br
Yossi Harari
Precocious by any measure, Yossi Harari designed
his first piece of jewelry at the age of 11. A childhood
spent shuttling between Israel and Turkey, and its
attendant exposure to the ancient world’s artistic
traditions fostered a reverence for the archaic that
translates to his own collection.
Harari works in mostly in 24K gold, sometimes with
touches of oxidized silver, which has a dark, sultry
appeal that enhances the brilliance of gemstones.
His handiwork often revels in the beauty of the imperfect: hammering marks appear on the surface of his
cuffs or pendants are set (pictured) with diamonds
that are gloriously askew; all are marks of the individual process that created the piece (24K gold and
oxidized silver Roxanne rough-diamond pendant and
chain, $22,380). When precision is required, Harari’s
Istanbul-based atelier can manage that, too, as seen
in its Roxanne cuff (pictured), and the hundreds of
pavé diamonds set therein (24K gold and oxidized
silver Roxanne pavé diamond cuff, $57,525; Roxanne
leopard pavé diamond earrings, $14,350).
| Where to Buy | Yossi Harari jewelry is available at
Bergdorf Goodman in New York.
Visit yossiharari.com.
Corporate Contact: Susan Grant,
Phone: (646) 244-5704,
Email: susan.grant@museimports.com
yvel
Yvel jewelry embraces pearls in all their abundant
variety. While shapes beyond the traditionally prized
round have recently come into vogue, Yvel’s use of
baroque and Keshi pearls, among others, dates back
more than a century. The rigorously selected gems
come in an array of colors set in 18K white, yellow
or rose gold. A prime characteristic of Yvel pieces
is design that’s dictated by the unique form of each
pearl to maximize its inherent beauty.
The brand offers six collections; they
make use of elements like pavé-set
colored diamonds and gemstones set
against pearls in complementary tones,
disk-shaped freshwater pearls and gold nugget
accents along elegant gold chains. The One of a Kind
collection offers unique pieces ranging from those
composed from a single, outstanding pearl in a setting that matches its individual contours to necklaces
with pearls assembled over several years to achieve
the ideal composition of color and shape.
The multicolored Baroque South Sea pearl necklace (pictured), part of the brand’s signature Golden
Brown collection, features South Sea pearls in a
spectrum of warm tones and stations in 18K yellow
gold nuggets with more than 21 carats of cognac diamonds ($59,388).
| Where to Buy | Yvel jewelry is available at Neiman Marcus department stores. Visit yvel.com.
Corporate Contact: Dani Chorost,
Phone: (212) 755-0688,
Email: usaservice@yvel.com
zydo
When Davide Zybert launched his jewelry
brand Zydo in 1972, it was the natural evolution of his family’s long history as diamond dealers and cutters. Accustomed to seeing gemstones
with a critical eye, Zybert’s special expertise and
relationships in the industry ensured that he would
have access to the finest stones possible for his own
collections.
Zydo jewelry spans the globe for inspiration. Often
jewelry making materials offer ample sources of
new ideas on their own. The Asia collection, with its
harmonious mix of diamonds and deep green jade
references pagoda architecture. And in the Enamel
collection diamonds get paired with vibrant colors—
acid green, strawberry red, cerulean blue—or black
in bracelets, rings, and pendants with a graphic,
youthful impact.
A favorite is the Flow collection (pictured). Available
in a lariat-style necklace or delicate drop earrings,
the collection’s soft strands of spiraling links in rose
gold with understated diamond station exhibits a
feminine grace and modern versatility that underscores Zydo’s appeal (necklace, $16,000; earrings,
$5,500).
| Where to Buy | Zydo jewelry is available at
Neiman Marcus department stores and select fine
jewelry boutiques. Visit zydo.it.
Corporate Contact: Eli Zybert,
Phone: (212) 421-2608,
Email: ija@zydoamerica.com
Zydo
A multicolored collage of sapphires makes the Century bracelet a super versatile addition to any fine
jewelry collection. An imaginative faux buckle detail
topped entirely in diamonds gives the piece a sense
of whimsy. Ultra flexible construction ensures it
wears with ease ($31,000).
| Where to Buy | Zydo jewelry is available at
Neiman Marcus department stores and select fine
jewelry boutiques. Visit zydo.it.
Corporate Contact: Eli Zybert,
Phone: (212) 421-2608,
Email: ija@zydoamerica.com
Zydo
Zydo’s Deluxe Collection displays one of the brand’s
signature traits, combining a variety of fancy-cut diamonds in a single design. With expert stone-setting
skill, Zydo’s artisans create totally supple, classic
pieces from a constellation of more than five different diamond cuts in a wide range of sizes (earrings,
$140,000; necklace, $450,000; ring, $100,000).
| Where to Buy | Zydo jewelry is available at
Neiman Marcus department stores and select fine
jewelry boutiques. Visit zydo.it.
Corporate Contact: Eli Zybert,
Phone: (212) 421-2608,
Email: ija@zydoamerica.com
Zydo
Pear- and brilliant-cut diamonds come together in
a modern rendition of the cocktail ring in Zydo’s new
Luminal collection. Available in 18K rose ($15,000)
or white gold ($32,000), the rings feature subtle floral motifs.
| Where to Buy | Zydo jewelry is available at
Neiman Marcus department stores and select fine
jewelry boutiques. Visit zydo.it.
Corporate Contact: Eli Zybert,
Phone: (212) 421-2608,
Email: ija@zydoamerica.com
Zydo
Secret Collection rings with diamonds, sapphires
and colored stones are reminiscent of antique lockets. The pavé-set surface of each pops open to reveal a hidden compartment for a miniature keepsake
($5,000 to $7,000).
| Where to Buy | Zydo jewelry is available at
Neiman Marcus department stores and select fine
jewelry boutiques. Visit zydo.it.
Corporate Contact: Eli Zybert,
Phone: (212) 421-2608,
Email: ija@zydoamerica.com
Zydo
Zydo’s technological mastery and innovative use of
color is at center stage with the new Avantgarde Collection. Titanium—valued for its strength and light
weight, but notoriously difficult to manipulate—poses
no obstacle for Zydo’s talented jewelry-makers. This
new titanium cuff features 18K rose gold details and
a shower of sapphires and diamonds. ($28,000).
| Where to Buy | Zydo jewelry is available at
Neiman Marcus department stores and select fine
jewelry boutiques. Visit zydo.it.
Corporate Contact: Eli Zybert,
Phone: (212) 421-2608,
Email: ija@zydoamerica.com