Baja California MapGuide
Transcription
Baja California MapGuide
Page 1 The Borderland 116° Salton Sea EOceanside EEscondido Tecate Start your day with a donut or pastry from Bakery el Mejor Pan de Tecate, where the savvy and hungry line up daily to wait for fresh-baked bread. Tour the Cuauhtémoc Moctezuma Brewery and sample cervezas in the beer garden. 33° Rancho Los Chabacanos Wash your cares away in the “temazcal,” a steam bath used by ancients for healing and purification. Hike the nature trail. Savor gourmet Mexican food at this hacienda lodge. La Chinesca Chinese immigrants arrived in the early 1900s and created a flourishing Chinatown that rivaled that of major North American cities. Taste the unique blend of Mexican and Chinese flavors for yourself at one of the 100-plus restaurants. E El Centro E San Diego E Chula 8 E Vista G MEXICO E Tecate Baja Prog, La Rumorosa Festivals of the Sun 2 Yuma B Mexicali G ES UNITED STAT E Imperial Beach Tijuana E Calexico E Ciudad Morelos Benito Ju´arez Hermosillo Puebla E La Joya San Antonio del Mar Valle de las Palmas EPlayas de Rosarito E San Luis Río Colorado Laguna Salada El Compadre Map Key Festival 111°W Museum Natural or scenic area Other point of interest Urban area Protected Areas Biosphere reserve National park Other protected area Lambert Conformal Conic Standard Parallels 24.5° and 30.5° 0 mi 25 25 0 km Tucson E 2 ARIZONA EL PINACATE Y C Gu a Vadalup lle y 33° Mission or church SCALE 1:1,400,000 do R A E R S I ra 32° GRAN DESIERTO DE ALTAR BIOSPHERE RESERVE UN ITE Sonoyta D DS ME E E Z A R J U S 3957 ft El Pinacate 1206 m (volcano) E R Peninsula of Baja Baja California TAT XIC K ES O COLORADO RIVER DELTA GEORGE STEINMETZ / CORBIS Ejido Nayarit T Bahía Adair El Sasabe BIOSPHERE RESERVE 8 Bahía La Choya La Choya San Vicente Puerto San Isidro Er´endira geo.tour.ism (n): Tourism that sustains or enhances the geographical character of a place — its environment, culture, aesthetics, heritage, and the well-being of its residents. Archaeological site Delta L´azaro C´ardenas ADOBE GUADALUPE, GUADALUPE VALLEY JULIO RODRÍGUEZ R. B Phoenix LA RUMOROSA JULIO RODRÍGUEZ R. Cerro Gordo K 4199 ft labazas L.A. Cetto Vineyard Punta Descanso Ca 1280 m E Puerto Nuevo Arts and Crafts Corridor Las Puerto Nuevo Take a tour, walk the gardens, or Festivities of the 3 Guadalupe Victoria Bahía Descanso Lobster Festival Peruse shop after shop of picnic at the vineyard of Mexico’s Holy Cross San Jos´e handcrafted pottery, baskets, largest wine producer. Visit the de la Zorra Luis B. S´anchez rugs, and furniture, all locally tasting room and linger over a glass made and sold at bargain prices. of Petite Sirah, Zinfandel, or the San Antonio Francisco La Misi´on Necua Zarco highly acclaimed Nebbiolo. 1 e La Casa de Doña Lupe Ejido Luis E. Johnson All-organic wines, cheese, and jams 1857 CONSTITUTION NATIONAL PARK Ensenada Guadalupe Valley Wine Region ol o Tour Baja California’s oldest winery, San Antonio Santo Tomás, and sip the award-winde las Minas A La Huerta Ojos Negros ning 2002 Cabernet with dinner in a Punta San Miguel L Ruta del Rio Hardy T Ensenada former wine-aging warehouse. Walk off Real del Castillo E A Wetlands on the Pacific Flyway for Taste and buy the many local your filet by the street-side sculptures Fiestas de la R migratory birds and home to the handmade cheeses of this region Isla Todos Santos Vendimia of locally born Alfonso Arambula, who Bahía endangered Yuma clapper rail and Todos Santos fashions objects out of natural and yellow-billed cuckoo. Go canoeing, Punta Banda recycled materials. E camp along the river, or join in comLa Bufadora Maneadero 3 Isla Pelícano munity-based restoration efforts. Isla Montague Golfo de Santa Clara Santa Catarina Uruapan Boca la Baja H´eroes de la Punta Santo Tom´as Independencia Santo Tom´as Santo Tomás Vineyard ALTO GOLFO DE CALIFORNIA Source of grapes for the Ensenada winery 1 Y DELTA DEL RÍO COLORADO Punta San Jos´e 32° 112° To live along the Baja California-U.S. border is to be part of a shared history —Old West towns transformed into neon cities mixed with extreme climates and disparate cultures. You can feel this sensation in Mexicali’s Chinese restaurants where sweet and sour Asian flavors intermingle with spicy Mexican aromas. We borderlanders have adopted the fashions and customs of the globalized world without losing our own rich culture. We live in modern cities yet endure severe desert conditions in a land that demands a strong character and a defiant disposition. Just by traveling along the MexicaliTijuana highway and looking up at the Rumorosa mountains you feel the light-headedness of the ages—the same rocks that the poet Lawrence Ferlinghetti called “a fantastic mountain landscape of nothing but stone” with “bright sun flames close over.” In some ways we Baja California borderlanders are the ultimate gold-seekers, nomads who have, in this region, discovered destiny under transcendent light. -- Gabriel Trujillo Muñoz, author, Mexicali Mexicali Grab a seat at the El Acueducto bar in Hotel Lucerna and ask for the world famous tomato juice and clam juice cocktail born here. About 28 miles south of Mexicali, along the Laguna Salada, find Olivarera Italo-Mexicana, a company that produces extra-virgin olive oil from some 260,000 olive trees. CALIFORNIA Tijuana Try a Caesar salad in the town where Caesar Cardini created the world famous dish. Tortas Wash Movil, housed in a white stall next to an old car wash, is well-known for savory tortas—mesquite-grilled beef sandwiches similar to hamburgers. Satisfy your sweet tooth with dulce de leche, walnut marzipan, and other Mexican specialties at Mercado El Popo. I N T E R M I N G L I N G F L AV O R S U N D E R G L O R I O U S L I G H T 115° Nogales E Nogales Puerto Pe˜nasco (Rocky Point) 5 E Agua Zarca Rafael San Bahía San Jorge San Felipe E K Picacho del Diablo 10157 ft SI Punta Estrella ER SIERRA SAN RA SA NATIONAL PARK i BROWN PELICANS JULIO RODRÍGUEZ R. Catavi˜na Natural History and Cultural Museum of Bahía de los Ángeles A 30-foot-long gray whale skeleton hangs from the ceiling of this small museum that also exhibits arrowheads from Cochimi natives, equipment from abandoned mines, and an entire wall of well-described shells. Isla Mejia 118°W Cirios Valley Natural Protected Area Named after the towering spike-like Cirio plant, this protected area stretches from Pacific to Gulf coast. Spot mule deer, coyote, and bighorn sheep while inland, and sea turtles and peregrine falcons where desert meets the sea. 4259 ft 1298 m Punta del Vapor ISLA GUADALUPE Isla Guadalupe 29°N PA CI F IC O CE A N 5446 ft 1660 m PROTECTION Bahía Blanco Yu ba y Morro Sur Bahía de los Angeles San Francisco de Borja Adac Mission Santa Rosaliíta Bahía Santa Rosaliíta Punta Rosarito Guerrero Negro Wetlands provide habitat for the white pelican, royal eagle, and gray and white heron. Nearby, visit the largest natural outdoor saltworks in the world and see locally made salt figurines. Cedros Island On a 3- to 4-hour hike from town to the island’s nearly 4,000-foot peak you’ll observe junipers, oak, and pine trees, but no cedar trees, for which the island was mistakenly named. Islas San Benito Punta Santo Domingo San Agustín Bahía Sebasti´an Vizcaíno Cedros Malarrimo Beach Famous for objects—from driftwood and sea glass to kitchen appliances— cast here by ocean currents from as far away as Alaska and Japan. Puerto Morro Redondo 28°N Guerrero Negro E RA 5184 ft 1580 m SC Volc´an Las Tres Vírgenes K O Í N O Maranata Restaurant Santa Rosalía E Bahía Asunci´on 27° Punta Prieta Punta Sa ´olito Bahía San Hip´olito Mesa Santa Clara Laguna San Bahía Ballenas Punta Abreojos ro Ped B AJA El Coyote CA LIF OR NIA Punta Santa Teresa Isla San Ildefonso n Bahía San Nicol´as Punta P´ulpito S Rosarito Cadej´e E Punta Mercenarios 1 Punta Santo Domingo ´u nd C o A uis Hotel Brennan Small, family-owned hotel offering sportfishing and whale-watching excursions Puerto San Carlos Gray Whale Festival San Luis Gonzaga A N Bahía Santa María Puerto Magdalena Magdalena Bay Hike sand dunes, camp on remote beaches, or kayak calm mangrove forests of this wetland ecosystem rich in wildlife. Get close to Pacific gray whales in winter months or spot bald eagles, magnificent frigatebirds, or the endangered California brown pelican. Bahía Magdalena D E Santa Rita L Punta Redonda Bahía Almejas Puerto Cort´es Isla Santa Margarita San Evaristo Santa María de Toris Isla San Francisco San Luis Gonzaga Chiriyaqui Mission Step inside the 1750s stone church or walk amid the fruit trees of this mission set in the middle of the desert. O A Puerto Chale Isla Creciente M ANGELFISH, CABO PULMO NATIONAL MARINE PARK OCTAVIO ABURTO / WWW.COLORESDELBERMEJO.COM Isla Santa Cruz ISLAS DEL GOLFO DE CALIFORNIA Isla San Diego FLORA AND FAUNA PROTECTION AREA Punta Calabozo Isla Las Animas Punta Coyote Bahía Coyote i Isla Partida ARCHIPÍELAGO DE ESPÍRITU SANTO NATIONAL PARK Espíritu Santo I. A Las Pocitas G Punta Tosca D A San Juan de la Costa Isla Cerralvo To FERR Ma Y zat l´an lv o ra L House of the Southern Baja E Californian Artisan N This cooperative has a showroom and store featuring paintings, sculptures, and clothing made by local craftspeople. Pichilingue Bahía de La Paz 1 CABO PULMO NATIONAL MARINE PARK Take a dive into the only coral reef in the Sea of Cortez and swim among 800 species of marine animals, including whale sharks, leatherback turtles, and bottlenosd dolphins. Learn how Grupo Tortuguero is dedicated to sea turtle conservation. Punta Norte Punta Dispensa er lC na Ca 113° Cabo San L´azaro Villa Morelos s Puerto San Carlos This fishing village and deep-water port is a favorite birdwatching spot. Catch a glimpse of resident ospreys or Brant geese. Go whale-watching. Topolobampo Isla San Jos´e A Isla Magdalena 22 Espíritu Santo Island Swim among sea lions, kayak beneath red rock cliffs, or snorkel alongside pufferfish, angelfish, and rainbow wrasse in this biologically diverse protected area. After camping on the beach, hike the island and keep an eye out for the black jackrabbit and a certain type of antelope ground squirrel found nowhere else on the planet. T E Ciudad Constituci´on 25° A La Paz La Paz Foundation Festival Punta Monta˜na a Ventan a l a í Bah B Sargento Chametla G 24° Calafia 24° Longitude West WHALES AND MAN DEPEND ON SQUID Professor Bill Gilly, Hopkin's Marine Station: "One squid can produce a million offspring; the population is absolutely immense. Sperm whales probably take out as much squid as man does; they'll eat half a ton of them a day, one reason the whale population is very healthy. Up in Isla San Pedro Mártir I saw six huge sperm whales doing barrel rolls right next to the ship." San Juan de Los Planes 1 Ensenada de Muertos San Pedro Palm fiber baskets and pottery by local artisans El Triunfo Cardonal Punta Pescadero San Bartolo Los Barriles/Buena Vista San Antonio El Rosario Heart of the “East Cape” and perfect spot for fishing, kayaking, or windsurfing Los Barriles Buena Vista La Ribera Punta Arena 19 1 SIERRA LA LAGUNA TROPIC OF CANCER Cultural Center and Museum of Todos Santos View colonial artifacts, local handicrafts, and larger-than-life murals depicting the peninsula’s history. Attend a folk dancing workshop or painting demo during the week-long annual art festival. K6824 ft 2080 m BIOSPHERE Todos Santos Punta Lobos Todos Santos Todos Santos Art Festival RESERVE El Pescadero 111° CATHOLIC CHURCH, TODOS SANTOS BERNARD FRIEL / DANITA DELIMONT / ALAMY Santiago Miraflores CABO PULMO NATIONAL PARK Handmade leather goods and wooden handicrafts ´ San Jose Mario Reyes, squid fisherman, Santa Rosalía: "It is risky out here. The squid’s beak is sharp, and we bathe in its ink. By law, we can only fish by hand with hooks, which keeps the fishery sustainable— very tiring, but worth it. When the copper mines in town closed, there was no way to make a living until we began fishing squid. Santa Rosalía now depends on the squid fishery, even though it is not a food we are accustomed to eating. Asians buy most of our catch.” La Paz View cave painting reproductions, colonial objects, and other artifacts at the Regional Museum of Anthropology and History. Try the fish tacos and ceviche at either El Bismark or El Bismarkcito. Stroll along the six-milelong Malecón, a lively waterfront promenade perfect for eating ice cream and watching the sunset. Find out if Los Huizapoles, a popular musical, theatrical, and comic duo, are currently performing in town. 112° of Greenwich The real celebrities found off peninsular shores are the 31 species of dolphin and whales whose feathered geysers you’ll spot on the horizon. None are more impressive than the sperm whales, the largest toothed mammals in the world. They hunt the Gulf’s most mysterious and prolific creature, the torpedo-like Humboldt squid. In Santa Rosalía, witness the sunset exodus of 200 outboarddriven pangas, speeding offshore for a night of squid fishing, a bobbing city of lights on the Sea of Cortez. SPERM WHALES, GULF OF CALIFORNIA FIDEICOMISO ESTATAL DE TURISMO BCS N Sustaining Seas Music, Food, Heritage & Nature Puerto Agua Verde G FESTIVALS & EVENTS San Antonio de la Higuera Isla Santa Catalina Home to the giant barrel cactus and a rattle-less rattlesnake I 114° Isla Monserrat G 115° PARK Ensenada Blanca Ciudad Insurgentes Sa nL Los Mochis E Isla Danzante 1 L TODOS SANTOS JON ARNOLD IMAGES / ALAMY Puerto Adolfo L´opez Mateos SINALOA NATIONAL L Miguel Angel De la Cueva, photographer, La Paz: "While climbing the Sierra de la Giganta years ago, I was awestruck by its grandeur, and felt the need to share its force and beauty. If my photographs can make a person feel this same passion, then perhaps they will help to protect these places. This has become my work.” Isla Carmen Punta San Telmo Llanos de Hiray ISLA CORONADOS, LORETO BAY MIGUEL ÁNGEL DE LA CUEVA / WWW.PLANETAPENINSULA.ORG on a secluded beach Villa Ignacio Zaragoza Boca La Soledad Tim Means, founder, Baja Expeditions: “There’s no place where we have the possibility to save so much of the world’s wildlife than what we have here in the Sea of Cortez right now. Once it’s gone, you can’t put it back.” Walk the sand dunes, view A Copyright © 2007 National Geographic Society, Washington, D.C. San Javier Santo Domingo Isla Magdalena When the San Andreas Fault divorced the peninsula from the North American mainland a few million years back, not only did it create the world’s youngest sea, it left behind some tectonic orphans: over 200 of them. (A few newer volcanic islands have added to their number.) These islands, powered by nutrient-rich seas, raced down the evolutionary highway, becoming home to the largest number of endemic species in North America: chuckwallas, rattlesnakes, jackrabbits, spiders, scorpions, squirrels, lizards, plants and insects. This astounding diversity prompted UNESCO to recognize the Gulf’s islands as a World Heritage Site. And it’s why a network of national parks—the Loreto, San Lorenzo, and Espíritu Santo marine parks, the Bahía ´ de los Angeles and Upper Gulf biospheres—have been created to protect these islands. LORETO saltworks ruins, and sunbathe Danzante Resort This luxurious eco-resort employs Poza Grande its neighbors only and is built from renewable and handmade materials. Take in the sea panorama from your private hilltop suite, spend the day in the mountains or sea, and enjoy a meal from the organic garden. Puerto Adolfo López Mateos Book a whale-watching trip, go sportfishing, or birdwatch in this friendly port city. Nopol´o G Loreto BAHÍA DE L Visit www.discoverbajacalifornia.com and www.explorebajasur.com to learn more about points of interest on the peninsula of Baja California. o m Our Lady of Loreto Festivities, E Loreto Foundation Festival E Michael Cope, owner, Galería de Todos Santos: "This is an oasis in the desert—the clarity of light, the water, even the way cows walk across the road—everything a painter needs is in Todos Santos. We work with the town to preserve this regional character. Seeing how popular we’ve become, the town realizes what's at stake; we now have building codes to keep it historical. And the art community has initiated school art programs.” Text by Charlie Kulander, author; Tom Miller, editor. Map notes by Angela Burnford. D Funded by National Geographic Expeditions, Lindblad Expeditions, and the Mexican Fund for the Conservation of Nature (FMCN). Prepared by National Geographic Maps and the National Geographic Center for Sustainable Destinations in collaboration with the Sonoran Institute, the Baja California Tourism Office, and the Baja California Sur Tourism Office. Isla Coronados 1680 m K San Jos´e de Comond´u Nuestra Señora de Loreto Mission and Mission Museum Las Barrancas Whether it's folkloric art along the border or the government-sponsored Casas de Cultura found in the dustiest of towns, you’ll feel the vital artistic pulse of the peninsula. Resident artists—Mexican and international—are interpreting sea and desert in startling new ways, a vibrancy that fills the galleries in Todos Santos and elsewhere. Inspired by their surroundings, artists increasingly work to conserve them. National Geographic and the people of the states of Baja California and Baja California Sur present this Geotourism MapGuide to the peninsula of Baja California. DANCERS IN CABO SAN LUCAS DOUGLAS PEEBLES / CORBIS 5512 ft A A R T I S T S W O R K I N A T R A N S C E N D E N T L A N D S C A P E 26° Todos Santos Art Festival Todos Santos, Baja California Sur (end of January or early February) Exhibits and performances by local and regional artists, musicians, filmmakers, and artisans, workshops, and conferences www.todossantosbaja.com/todos-santos/art/art-festival.htm Gray Whale Festival Magdalena Bay, Baja California Sur (end of January to mid-February) Promotes the opening of the whale-watching season with music and entertainment, local food, horse racing, and fireworks www.bajaquest.com/sidetrips/sidetrip04.htm Baja Prog Mexicali, Baja California (March) Largest progressive rock concert in Mexico drawing bands and fans from all around the world www.bajaprog.org/webring_progordie.php Festival of San José del Cabo San José del Cabo, Baja California Sur (mid-March) Beginning with parties and music, this festival continues for 11 days with carnivals and parades on weekends www.mexperience.com/guide/ beaches/sanjosedelcabo.htm La Paz Foundation Festival La Paz, Baja California Sur (first week in May) Exhibits and concerts celebrate the founding of La Paz on May 3, 1535 www.lapaz-tourism.com Festivities of the Holy Cross, Valle de Mexicali, Baja California (May) Traditional religious celebration featuring dancing, music, and colorful costumes www.cucapah.org San Ignacio de Loyola Fair and Festival San Ignacio, Baja California Sur (last week of July) Festival honors the town’s patron saint and includes horse races, music, dances, religous celebrations, sports events, and fireworks www.mexonline.com/cityguide-sanignacio.htm Fiestas de la Vendimia Ensenada, Baja California (August) Presentation of the wines of Baja California accompanied by music, food tasting and art www.fiestasdelavendimia.com Our Lady of Loreto Festivities Loreto, Baja California Sur (September 5-8) Honors Loreto's patron saint and Baja's first mission with a series of religious, civic, and cultural activities including pilgrimages, baptisms, sport-fishing tournaments, horse races, and dances www.loreto.com Festivals of the Sun Mexicali, Baja California (end of September to mid-October) Dancing, music, art exhibits, parades, carnival rides, and food booths featuring regional cuisine www.fiestasdelsol.com.mx Loreto Foundation Festival Loreto, Baja California Sur (October 19-25) Celebrates the founding of Baja’s first town www.loreto.com Puerto Nuevo Lobster Festival Puerto Nuevo, Baja California (October) Live music, crafts, local wine sampling, folklorico dancing, contests, and lobster feast www.puertonuevo lobster.com/puerto-nuevo-lobster-festival.htm San Felipe Shrimp Festival San Felipe, Baja California (November) Big block party with three days of music, dancing, seafood, and beach fun www.sanfelipe.com.mx R Desert Visions 116° San Isidro La Purísima Bahía San Juanico Punta Mangles San Juan Bautista Londo R San Juanico World-renown surf spot 117° Bahía San Juanico I SUR Batequi KAYAKING, ENSENADA GRANDE, ISLA PARTIDA RALPH LEE HOPKINS AN EVOLUTIONARY TREASURE Punta Concepci´on Muleg´e Ignacio n Sa Mexico’s Galápagos (SEA OF CORTEZ) Punta Chivato Isla Santa In´es Bahía Santa In´es San Jos´e de Magdalena Quiriego ECiudad Obreg´on i´ o pc Laguna San Ignacio This World Heritage Site is the only remaining gray whale breeding lagoon considered undisturbed by human development. Take an educational boating and camping expedition with Ecoturismo Kuyimá and observe adult whales and their young offspring. EEsperanza GULF OF CALIFORNIA San Marcos ce Co n O C E A N San Ignacio Kadakaamán Mission This impressive Spanish colonial church has four-foot-thick walls of local volcanic stone, a grand exterior façade with cornices, moldings, and engraved stone plaques, and an interior altar of carved wood and gold. San Lino San Ignacio San Ignacio de Loyola Fair and Festival Bahía P A C I F I C n Hip Vicam Isla San Marcos In between diving and fishing, be sure to check out the carvings made by local fishermen. ISLAS DEL GOLFO DE CALIFORNIA FLORA AND FAUNA PROTECTION AREA 1 Rosario Marina del Rey Isla Tortuga 6365 ft 1940 m Regional foods such as dates and figs Vendor of traditional handicrafts EL VIZCAÍNO BIOSPHERE RESERVE San Pablo Empalme Guaymas E RY FER CI A AN C K Emiliano Zapata K 3018 ft 920 m Punta Santa Ana Bahía Santa Ana S G San Carlos Isla San Pedro Nolasco Santa Rosalía Wooden homes with balconies and porches replaced disordered adobe structures when a French mining company founded this town. Stroll streets lined by original pastel-hued structures, grab a fresh baguette at Panadería El Boleo, in business since 1901, and stop in the library for photos of the town’s mining heyday. FR Z I Bahía San Crist´obal ER AN Vizcaíno Punta Morro Hermoso Laguna Ojo de Liebre Considered one of the best whalewatching spots in the world, this World Heritage Site provides refuge for breeding gray whales and their calves during the winter. SI V Trudi Angell, tour operator, Loreto: “In March 1978, we paddled out of the channel across to Isla Danzante in the moonlight surrounded by whale blows to begin a month-long paddle down the coast to La Paz. It was a magical night. Thirty years later, and I’m still here.” Pe n í n s u l a d e 28°N Bahía San Carlos E Pedro Cole, bodysurfer, La Paz: "Some of the best waves come up from the south, driven by severe summer storms. Surf breaks that lie dormant— where you never see waves—suddenly turn into some of the most incredible breaks you'll ever ride. Where are the best spots? You gotta be kidding. You have to find these places yourself." O Pozo Nuevo BIOSPHERE RESERVE San Nicol´as NUESTRA SEÑORA DE LORETO MISSION AND MISSION MUSEUM Founded in 1697 and considered the first successful mission on the peninsula. Visit the museum, which depicts the lives of both natives and missionaries, and the original stone church, recently restored. Cabo San Miguel Benito Ju´arez mo jo de Liebre n’s Lagoon) Onavas ISLA SAN PEDRO MARTIR Bahía San Juan Bautista D Giant winter swells slant down the peninsula's west coast, curling into waves sought by the world’s best surfers, while 50 miles away, kayakers glide on flatiron seas. That's the diversity this narrow peninsula offers: you can encounter a placid Caribbean-like beach on one side, Hawaii's North Shore on the other, and tackle the Sierras in between —all in one day. And if you're prepared for a multi-sport adventure, the weather will never shut you down. Bahía Tortugas Punta Clambey Las Avispas Ortiz El Arco O D I S C O V E R I N G T H E P E N I N S U L A’ S D I V E R S I T Y Santa Eduwiges T un Lag(Scam a Bahía Tortugas Isla San Lorenzo 1 COMPLEJO LAGUNAR OJO DE LIEBRE BIOSPHERE RESERVE Falsa Punta Valle Verde Isla Turner Isla San Esteban NATIONAL PARK Mission Santa Gertrudis la Magna Small stone church built in 1752 and its freestanding bell tower a short distance away. G Isla Natividad An Endless Summer E R S I D E 3937 ft 1200 m K SAN LORENZO EMiguel Alem´an Bahía Kino Bahía San Rafael Punta Ballena Punta San Francisquito Puerto San Francisquito Isla San Pedro M´artir 5938 ft 1810 m Villa Jes´us María Kino Nuevo Bahía Kino World’s primary breeding spot for Heermann’s gulls and elegant terns ARCHIPÍELAGO DE s Cerro la Sandia K 29° Bacanora Santa María de ue ip Punta Santa Rosaliíta 15 GB (Shark I.) Isla Partida Isla Rasa La Única Ecotourism Camp Solar panels generate electricity for cabins at this natural reserve. Take a guided educational desert hike, photographic sea tour, or fishing trip. 109° Hermosillo SONORA Punta Chueca Isla Tibur´on ls Sa al 15 BAHÍA DE LOS ÁNGELES, CANALES DE BALLENAS Y SALSIPUEDES Bahía de los Angeles BIOSPHERE RESERVE Bahía Las Animas Well-preserved stone church completed in 1801 and still in use today GUADALUPE ISLAND BIOSPHERE RESERVE Scuba dive, whale-watch, or observe great white sharks on this remote volcanic island and sole reproduction zone for the Guadalupe fur seal. FLORA AND FAUNA PROTECTION AREA n Ca 0 km AREA Punta Prieta 110° NUESTRA SEÑORA DE LORETO MISSION PURESTOCK / GETTY IMAGES ISLAS DEL GOLFO DE CALIFORNIA Isla Coronado Punta María 0 mi (Guardian Angel I.) s Punta Blanco 29° BAY OF LOS ANGELES, WHALES AND SALSIPUEDES CHANNELS BIOSPHERE RESERVE Find yourself sleeping under the stars, paddling through shaded coves, or exploring arid desert islands that rise out of the turquoise sea. When birdwatching for pelicans and ospreys, cast your eyes downward for the chance to see a humpback whale in this newly-established protected area. El Desemboque Isla Angel de la Guarda Cerro Dos Picachos K 1 na lle el) Ba nn e ha ld sC na ale Ca (Wh KMonte Augusta BIOSPHERE RESERVE FLORA AND FAUNA La Polvareda RR Punta Canoas Punta del Norte Las Cuevitas T LOS CIRIOS Punta San Carlos CHIHUAHUA FE na Puerto Libertad R a oc aB Isla San Luis Gonzaga Bahía San Luis Gonzaga 30° E VALLE DE L Cataviña Bring your camera on a desert hike amid endemic blue palms and Cirios, giant Cardon cacti—the world’s largest cactus, and the boulder field where centuries of wind has shaped hills and valleys of smooth rock. Isla San Luis Punta Bufeo S Cataviña Cave Paintings Ancient yet vivid figures of yellow, red, and brown on walls and ceiling of a small desert cave. San Carlos (SEA OF CORTEZ) Punta Santa Isabel Isla el Muerto Isla Lobos Isla Encantada B AJ A E Punta San Antonio Trincheras GULF OF CALIFORNIA C A L I F O R NI A Bahía Rosario Los Tanques Puerto Lobos E lR Puertecitos SONORA A Puertecitos Hot Springs Bask in your choice of these geothermally-heated pools cooled by tidal seawater. U ME .S. XIC O I RN FO Z ) LI TE CA O R OF F C LF A O GU (SE 6447 ft 1965 m NEW MEXICO ARIZONA SINALOA D La Lobera Peer over the edge of what appears to be a vast seaside crater, actually a collapsed cave, for a look at the sea lions who reside deep below. Cuauht´emoc o Nuevo Uruapan El Rosario Punta Baja Magdalena de Kino E Punta San Fermin K CALIFORNIA ENLARGED FAR LEFT N 30° 1 Oquitoa Altar A Mama Espinosa’s Known for lobster burritos and warm hospitality Atil R ar os orget about calling this 800-mile-long peninsula Baja or "Lower" California. This was California, named that way on maps BAJA long before the first mission bells pealed CALIFORNIA Isla Guadalupe over San Diego. The early explorers may have put this peninsuBAJA CALIFORNIA la on the map, but they failed miserably in their SUR search for treasure. Thank goodness they didn’t PACIFIC make much of an impact on the land, most of OCEAN AREA ENLARGED which looks now as it did when Cortez abandoned the peninsula: stark, defiantly beautiful, intimidating. Yet the spines and barbs are just an evolutionary defense protecting its gentler side. Walking in an arroyo after my first Baja summer thunderstorm—hummingbirds probing ocotillo flowers, fat mesquite pods dangling on the branch—I realized that this peninsula was a sleeping beauty, needing only the kiss of water to awaken. The Californios have always known this, and have managed a centuries-old balance of limited resources that could serve as a lesson to us all. You might see some vacation developments threatening this balance, places tilting more towards fantasy than reality. But remember, this peninsula is the original California, and its California Dream isn’t makebelieve. It’s defined by the distinctive places you’ll find on this map, judged by the people who actually live here as being the peninsula’s most authentic treasures. Visiting them enriches your journey, and sustains their future. They and their visitors agree with John Steinbeck: "A dream hangs over the whole region.” —Charlie Kulander, travel author La Tubutama O San Quintín Bay Blue and purple sea grass beds provide winter habitat for the Pacific black brant goose, and coastal marshes shelter the light footed clapper rail. Bring binoculars and walk for miles on deserted beaches, or view ruins of an old mill, now home to a bayside restaurant. F 31° N Cabo San Quintín a arí ta M n a aS Bahí TIR Isla San Martín R MA GUADALUPE VALLEY WINE REGION Wine producers of this temperate valley harvest grapes that yield over eighty percent of Mexico’s wines. Stop at vineyards and restaurants along the Wine Route— pick up a map at Baja Tourism offices. Sierra San Pedro Mártir National Park Snow falls on granite mountain peaks rising abruptly out of sea and desert. Climb to the highest point on the peninsula for a view of both coasts, and watch for golden eagles and condors flying overhead. UPPER GULF OF CALIFORNIA AND COLORADO RIVER DELTA BIOSPHERE RESERVE Wetlands and estuaries provide refuge for the endangered Gulf of California harbor porpoise and other endemic species. Birdwatch in Montague and Pelicano Islands. Tour Roca Consag by boat. O O EDR N P Vicente Guerrero E San Quintín Algodon Valley of the Giants You’ll need to crane your neck to see the tops of these giant cardon cacti that tower over the desert Laguna Perceb´u landscape of this natural reserve. S PEDRO MARTIR Camal´u L´azaro C´ardenas E Bahía San Felipe (Devil’s Peak) 3096 m ON THE PENINSULA, THE DREAM IS REAL S´aric eb re Ruben Jaramillo Los Molinos Roca Consag L Cabo Colonet Bahía Colonet San Felipe Shrimp Festival Santa Clara La s 31° Highest point in Baja California Altar Colonet NA 117° What is geotourism all about? According to National Geographic, geotourism “sustains or enhances the geographical character of a place—its environment, culture, aesthetics, heritage, and the wellbeing of its residents.” Geotravelers, then, are people who like that idea, who enjoy authentic sense of place and care about maintaining it. They find that relaxing and having fun gets better—provides a richer experence— when they get involved in the place and learn about what goes on there. Geotravelers soak up local culture, hire local guides, buy local foods, protect the environment, and take pride in discovering and observing local customs. Travel-spending choices can help or hurt, so geotravelers patronize establishments that care about conservation, preservation, beautification, and benefits to local people. SIERRA LA L AGU 9:44 AM Y 1/15/08 SUNSET ON SANTA CATALINA ISLAND RALPH LEE HOPKINS Baja map side Bahía Los Frailes Boca de la Vinorama San Jos´e Viejo Santa Catarina San José del Cabo Candelaria Punta Gorda E Festivities San Jos´e Migri˜no G del Cabo 23° Bahía San Jos´e del Cabo Cabo San Lucas EBahía San Lucas Cabo Falso CABO SAN LUCAS FLORA AND FAUNA PROTECTION AREA 23° San José Estuary This protected bird sanctuary is home to more than 250 bird species, including egrets, pelicans, and frigatebirds. Wander the quiet paths or kayak the lagoon. 109° TODOS SANTOS Sculptors, dancers, and surfers alike call this historic seaside town home. Start your day with warm bread from family-owned Panadería Todos Santos. Tour Nuestra Señora del Pilar de Todos Santos Mission, built in 1786. Browse shelves of hard-to-find books at Tecolote Bookstore. 110° Baja theme side 1/15/08 10:08 AM Page 1 Peninsula of Baja California LAND OF EPIC VISIONS AND UNEXPECTED TRAVELS La Mesa ARIZONA AREA ENLARGED Cuchuma Mountain Stop and smell the lilacs, artemisia, and sage, or birdwatch for golden eagles and red-tailed hawks. Find the rock-slab altar at the peak of this mountain considered sacred to the Kumiai. Lemon Grove San Diego E E Coronado E 5 ENational City CALIFORNIA Family-friendly working ranch with camping, cabins, and many recreational activities E E La Misi´on E E San Antonio Necua E Punta Banda La E or lvad Sa E Maneadero (Rodolfo S´anchez Taboada) Geotraveler Tips ISLAS DEL A S I N E P D N P E E K R R Í N O Punta Santa Rosa S BAJA U R Digital cameras work best, as image quality does not deteriorate in heat. Flash is prohibited around cave paintings and in most museums. Instead, boost ISO to 800 or 1200. For wildlife photos, keeping your distance with a telephoto lens reflects humane consideration and ensures quality pictures. L C E A El Coyote A N C Ba E hí a P SUR 1 C I E Co D San Buenaventura O San Sebasti´an E Isla San Ildefonso ci E ep N nc Canyon La Trinidad Prehistoric cave paintings well worth the scenic yet challenging canyon hike and river crossings to get there. Your journey starts at nearby Rancho la Trinidad to see the larger-than-life figures, including a giant red deer and human figure. Experienced guide required. Weather Punta Santa Teresa O CALIFORNIA Bahía Coyote I. Coyote ´on Bahía San Nicol´as ESanta Rosalita Cadej´e San Nicol´as E E L Punta P´ulpito A LA PUR ÍSIMA OASIS Picnic under date palm trees, swim in the river, or stroll the village streets. Thirteenhundred-foot rock formation El Pilón beckons serious rock climbers. ERosarito Summer hurricanes get the publicity, but Nor tes—the northerly gale-force winds of winter on the Sea of Cortez—are a bigger hazard to small craft. Listen to AM radio. If Santa Ana winds are forecast in Southern California, prepare for Nor tes whistling down the Gulf, especially during the months of January and February. VHF and single sideband radios broadcast the latest weather reports. Cultural Differences G Calafia E Golf Hotels Whenever possible, lodge at locally owned independent hotels where your money trickles through the local economy. Give preference also to hotels that make a point of supporting local conservation, communities, and culture. Laundry squanders precious water; reuse towels and sheets when practical. San Juan de los Planes San Pedro ESan 1 E San Bartolo Bahía de Las Palmas E Los CALIFORNIA 19 Barriles EBuena Vista SUR ELa EPunta 6824 ft PA CIF IC OCE AN TROPIC OF CANCER Colorada Punta Arena BIOSPHERE Todos Santos E Todos Santos Inn Tranquil 19th-century hacienda with heated pool, gardens, and wine bar SAN JOSÉ DEL CABO Meander the laid-back streets lined with colonial buildings, bougainvillea, and palms. Explore art galleries and boutiques. Listen to live music on the town plaza. RESERVE Santiago E Cabo CABO PULMO Cabo Pulmo EPulmo Miraflores Cadua˜no Santiago Tour the rebuilt mission church. Visit the zoo and view parrots, coyotes, reptiles, and native creatures. Los Frailes E E 1 T A PLAZA, SAN JOSÉ DEL CABO JULIO RODRÍGUEZ R. N E Jose ´ A San Juan Bautista Londo Tía Licha’s Step out onto your balcony to watch the sunrise over the sea, return inside for your traditional Mexican breakfast (made by Tía Licha herself), and set out for a day on deserted beaches or scenic mountains. 2080 m K a 1312 ft 400 m Ribera SIERRA LA LAGUNA n Sa im Punta Pescadero Cactus Sanctuary G EL PILÓN, LA PURÍSIMA OASIS FIDEICOMISO ESTATAL DE TURISMO BCS ECardonal Antonio BAJA A big chunk of a national park's revenue comes from entrance fees. While tour outfitters usually are responsible for paying their clients' fees, if you are traveling independently, inquire locally where to pay. Coastal parks have a very limited fleet of patrol boats, but you can help out by reporting park infractions such as a sea turtle capture or a shrimp boats dragging nets in protected waters. GULF OF CALIFORNIA (SEA OF CORTEZ) El Triunfo After the 1750s discovery of gold and silver, wealth-seeking Europeans flocked here and built a grand mining empire. The 130foot-tall main chimney still stands, along with smelter and mine ruins. 1 El Pil´on K ESan Isidro ELa Purísima La Purísima Oasis E E El Rosario E Practice good etiquette at unprotected petrogylph and pictograph sites: don't take rubbings or touch them with your hands. The oils on your fingers can affect potential dating techniques and accelerate their deterioration. Instead of rubbings, use a camera to preserve the images and shoot early or late, in oblique light, to accentuate the design. de los Muertos Ensenada de Muertos 1 National Parks Visiting Archaeological Sites 24°N EEnsenada Stick to links with eco-focused management systems including gray water irrigation and saline-tolerant hybrid grass (the rare exception here, not the rule). I s rí La Pu Punta Arena de la Ventana Bahía la Ventana L A Whether you're a local resident or foreign visitor, allow plenty of social leeway to avoid cultural misunderstandings. Visitors, carry a Spanish dictionary, or at least a guidebook with a good language glossary. ESargento es R R A S I E A 5380 ft 1640 m Photography al vo S R Santa Rosalía de Mulegé Mission al R o Punta Concepci´on EMuleg´e G A E Mulegé Part fishing town, part genuine Mexican village, part scenic paradise. Explore the narrow streets or comb the beach by day and camp along the river under palm trees at night. Don’t miss the folk dancers at Hotel Serenidad’s pig roast or the margaritas at Los Equipales. EChametla AD I Bahía Santa In´es NT 27°N PI S PROTECTION AREA E B La Paz BALANDRA BEACH Wade through the opalescent blue-green water of this shallow bay and view 12-foottall “Mushroom Rock,” a well-known landmark and symbol of La Paz. With its mangroves and mountain backdrop, this public beach, threatened by development, is a focal point for conservation efforts. ISLAS DEL GOLFO DE CALIFORNIA FLORA AND FAUNA PROTECTION AREA LA (SEA OF CORTEZ) Isla Santa In´es El Centenario Tam GULF OF CALIFORNIA San Jos´e Ede Magdalena A long-term rental in an integrated community proclaims your compatibility with local culture, and avoids the tourist bubble that dwelling in high-end resorts consigns you to. Buying into a new housing development in a remote, pristine area will speed its deterioration. Nor should you buy into a place on your first trip when you’re wearing rose-tinted glasses; stay nearby a couple of times. Check for year-round electricity, hurricane protection, insurance, waste and sewage disposal, and especially potable water. Seek a house that fits into the desert surroundings, aesthetically, culturally, ecologically. Stick to trails that have been around for decades if not centuries. The desert ecology is easily scarred by errant footsteps. (And getting lost is a real danger.) As a custodian of the wild, be proactive and clean up after others who have gone before you. Península El Mogote Ens e nad a La Pa z RA Real Estate FLORA AND FAUNA Campsites Isla Cerralvo rr E Bring small denomination Mexican bills, especially to rural areas where it may be impossible to break a 500-peso note. You'll get the best exchange rate at the ATMs found in all the larger cities. ER San Marcos Money Ba hí a de La Paz Ce GOLFO DE CALIFORNIA EPichilingue l Lucas Leave footprints, not trash. Shells and driftwood are part of the fragile beach habitat; leave them in their place. Keep in mind that campfires can scar beaches for years and are illegal on the Gulf's islands. Finally, Mexico maintains a public right-of-way from the mean high tide line to 66 feet inland, even in front of exclusive resorts. (Local beach peddlers know this!) SI SANTA ROSALÍA DE MULEGÉ MISSION Step inside the picturesque 18th-century lime and stone church to see the original statue of Saint Rosalía. Outside, follow the rocky steps for a panorama of the surrounding hills, river, and palm tree forest. Isla San Marcos EEl Tecolote Balandra Beach On the Beach To Mazatl´an na Punta San Lucas Seeking real regional cuisine? Skip pre-trip provisioning; you'll find everything you need prowling the peninsula's modern supermarkets found in all the larger cities, and things you’ve never heard of at roadside stands and mini-mercados. Don't miss the specialties of the smaller towns: sweet raisins, pitahaya fruit, dates, Mission grape wine. FERRY El Angel Azul Bright, traditional colors fill the guestrooms of this family-owned B&B, originally the town’s courthouse and recently restored. Step under the hacienda-style arches into the garden and enjoy a traditional Mexican breakfast before taking a short walk to the waterfront. Punta Lupona Punta Dispensa BALANDRA BEACH TRAVIS ROWAN / ALAMY ESanta Rosalía Food ARCHIPÍELAGO DE ESPÍRITU SANTO NATIONAL PARK A ymas a To Gu Isla Ballena Isla Espíritu Santo Ca MISSION OF SANTA ROSALÍA DE MULEGÉ MARCO REGALIA / ALAMY Y FERR Isla Partida Desert Ecology Ironwood trees are the Florence Nightingales of the desert, nursing hundreds of plant species under their shade canopies. Wood from these rapidly disappearing trees, some 800 years old, have been converted to woodcarvings and mesquite charcoal. Admire the trees, but avoid purchasing their carvings or their charcoal. Keep ATVs and similar off-road vehicles on established roads and paths, doing otherwise violates regulations and scars the land for years, even decades. BETWEEN LA PAZ AND SAN JOSÉ DEL CABO 110°W L A G U N Focus on what's authentic. Not only will you gain greater cultural insight, your targeted pesos will help local communities conserve local tradition and protect natural resources. Baja Californios typically respond with enthusiasm and heartfelt hospitality to any traveler curious about their daily lives. Isla Tortuga dr Pe ALTO GOLFO DE CALIFORNIA Y DELTA DEL RÍO COLORADO How to Help the Baja California Region Retain Its Character ra Sier cisco To n Fran Sa n Sa 32°N 5 Isla Montague Bufadora 112°W Tres Vírgenes Santa Barbara Church The town’s main tourist attraction is the all-steel church that was prefabricated in France before being shipped to the current site in pieces. Laguna Hanson 1857 Constitution National Park Hike through pine forests, go mountain biking, or camp beside fresh-water Hanson’s Lagoon in this park named in honor of the 1857 signing of Mexico’s constitution. BIOSPHERE RESERVE GUADALUPE CANYON Explore desert landscape and palm groves at the foot of granite mountains. Swim in spring-fed pools. Tour prehistoric rock art sites. Unwind in the private outdoor hot tub at your campsite. Ejido Luis E. Johnson E BIOSPHERE RESERVE 15 ESan NATIONAL PARK Z n Sa Cucapá Community Museum The Cucapá have inhabited this region for 3,000 years and today struggle to subsist in a severely environmentally degraded area. The museum recounts their history and exhibits traditional handicrafts and clothing. E Bahía Todos Santos SONORA dy R Ensenada ar A 3 Ensenada GRAN DESIERTO DE ALTAR Guadalupe Canyon 1857 CONSTITUTION Huerta E B. S´anchez J U E 15 15 1 Carranza 15 0 mi Vizcaíno Biosphere Reserve Gray whales frequent coastal lagoons and fruit-bearing cacti color the inland arid landscape of Mexico’s largest protected area. View cave paintings—there are more than 200 in the Sierra San Francisco, hike the desert, or explore islands and wetlands. E Colonia A R R S I E Ojos Negros Isla de Todos Santos E Guadalupe Victoria CALIFORNIA San Antonio de las Minas BETWEEN SANTA ROSALÍA AND MULEGÉ CUESTA DEL INFIERNO BAJA E Punta San Miguel La Bufadora At the rocky tip of Punta Banda peninsula, water shoots upward as far as 80 feet above sea level, making this the second largest marine geyser in the world. HUSSONG’S CANTINA, ENSENADA CLAUDE VOGEL San Antonio Necua Indigenous Community Take a guided hike, go horseback riding, or learn basket-weaving at this Kumiai Indian community. Learn about medicinal plant uses, hear traditional music, and camp at the Siñao Kuatay Kumiai Recreational Center. Marcos Punta Ensenada ITE DS TAT ES MEX ICO Le´on EL PINACATE Y E La PA C I FI C OCEAN UN 2 Tajo Canyon Spectacular El Trono Blanco, Mexico’s tallest monolith at 1,970 feet, rises out of a rugged boulderand palm-tree-strewn gorge. Climbing and hiking this rugged landscape is not for the faint of heart. 3 Punta Salsipuedes San Luis Río Colorado E Luis Francisco Zarco ESan E Salada H Biannual ride along scenic coastal highway Guadalupe Valley Community Museum Locally made Indian crafts and memorabilia from early Russian immigrants, all housed in a 1905 Russian cottage. 0 km ENuevo Laguna Las Calabazas Rosarito Ensenada 50 Mile Fun Bicycle Ride 0 mi Laguna Salada Deposits left from Gulf floods create exceptionally salty waters in this shallow, hour-glass-shaped basin. La Rumorosa Grade Keep one eye on the steep, winding highway and another on the impressive mountain scenery as you descend 4,000 exhilarating feet. Delta E Puerto Nuevo Self-proclaimed “Lobster Capital of Baja” and home to 30-plus restaurants all serving the same dish: Puerto Nuevo lobster—crustaceans pan-fried in lard and served with San Jos´e beans, rice, and tortillas. Ede la Zorra ESan Luis NATIONAL PARK E Bahía Los Frailes SIERRA LA TRIN IDAD Punta Descanso UTE ARIZONA 2 BIGHORN SHEEP, GUADALUPE CANYON MIGUEL ANGEL DE LA CUEVA / WWW.PLANETAPENINSULA.ORG BIK E RO Ju´arez Hermosillo E 3 4199 ft 1280 m K Cerro Gordo Rosarito Beach Hotel Former Prohibition watering hole for Hollywood royalty. Take in the lobby’s panoramic murals or the view of the beach from the bar. Family-owned since the 1920s. Rumorosa Vallecitos Hike through pine forests and agave groves to locate several prehistoric rock paintings. On the winter solstice, a sunbeam enters the cave of red-colored “El Diablito,” or “Little Devil,” and illuminates only the figure’s eyes. Juntas de Neji-Kumeyaay Indigenous Community E Puebla o Valle de las Palmas Playas de Rosarito E EBenito E 5 ELa Rancho Ojai R.V. Park G Puerto Nuevo Bahía Descanso 6365 ft K 1940 m Volc´an Las Ciudad Morelos E G ad San Antonio del Mar Islas Coronado 0 km Mexicali 2 Tecate Tijuana Cultural Center Considered Baja California’s most important cultural center, this modern landmark is home to a concert hall, IMAX theater, and the Museum of the Californias. Allow yourself time in the museum to see the maps, photographs, tools, and other artifacts that recount the peninsula’s rich history. EL VIZCAÍNO BIOSPHERE RESERVE ELigurta B ATES UNITED ST CO MEXI E ELa Joya ENSENADA Grab a fish taco or scope out the catch of the day at the lively Fish Market. Kick back with a cerveza at legendary Hussong’s Cantina, where Bing Crosby crooned and John Wayne tipped his hat. Meander opulent halls of the Riviera de Ensenada Civic & Cultural Center, once a famed hotel and casino frequented by celebrities such as Lucille Ball and Desi Arnaz. Yuma E ESomerton Tijuana AREA ENLARGED Los Algodones E Imperial Beach E BAJA CALIFORNIA SUR E Winterhaven E Calexico E EJacumba AREA ENLARGED PA C I F I C OCEAN 8 8 ol or A IA N R ) FO EZ LI RT CA CO OF OF E (S LF EChula Vista Tijuana Walk the lively Avenida Revolución, Tijuana’s main street, known by Tijuanans as “La Revu.” Head to Jai Alai Fronton Palace, which formerly housed fast-paced Basque ball games and exhibits impressive Moorish architecture. SONORA Heber E po GU BAJA CALIFORNIA 115° Cultural Investigations Center and Museum of the Autonomous University of Baja California View local history exhibits, sculptures and crafts from indigenous peoples, regional artwork, and more. C ITE D ME STAT XIC O ES 117° E To F Top ERRY olo bam UN BETWEEN TIJUANA AND ENSENADA 116°W SAND DUNES, ISLA MAGDALENA, BAHÍA MAGDALENA STEPHEN COHEN DOLPHINS, GULF OF CALIFORNIA SVEN-OLOF LINDBLAD CALIFORNIA Rosalía, you may witness a shimmering mirage of islands disappearing right before your eyes. You will have learned a most important lesson: nothing here is what it seems. It doesn’t matter how you travel—by car or kayak, sailboat or mountain bike—the wind-whipped seas, searing heat, mysterious currents, unmarked roads and trails will interfere with your planned journey, pulling you towards the unexpected. You can plan your route, but don’t expect to always follow it. —Charlie Kulander, travel author A Quixotic spirit runs through this peninsula. The rancheros, for example, barely wrest their livelihoods from an intractable desert, yet name their ranches in keeping with their epic visions: Rancho Esperanza, Rancho Progreso, Rancho El Imposible. Hope, Progress, The Impossible. The clean ocean air washing across the peninsula lets you see clearly into the sublime heart of the desert, yet as you drop down the hairpin Cuesta del Infierno into the furnace-blast heat of Santa E Boca de la Vinorama ESanta G Catarina San Jos´e Viejo E del Cabo San Jos´e ESan José E del Cabo Playa Bahía San Jos´e del Cabo 0 mi 0 km 15 15 FIN WHALE, BAJA CALIFORNIA COAST FLIP NICKLIN / MINDEN PICTURES Copyright © 2007 National Geographic Society, Washington, D.C. Visit www.discoverbajacalifornia.com and www.explorebajasur.com to learn more about points of interest in the Baja California region.