Naturally Derived and High Performance Polymers for Hair and Skin

Naturally Derived and High
Performance Polymers for Hair and
Skin Care
September 7th, 2016
Dr. Tom Castle – Business Development Manager
Revolymer
A unique specialty chemical company focused on the development of novel
polymers, responsive encapsulation and targeted delivery systems.
Delivering compelling performance enhancing ingredients for home care,
personal & health care, coatings, adhesives & sealants and more.
Established: 2005
Employees: 45, 30 in R&D
AIM Listed: 2012
Itaconix Acquisition: 2016
HQ: Deeside, Flintshire, UK
Manufacturing: Stratham, NH, USA
© Revolymer 2016
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Enhancing Functional Performance
Personal Care and Consumer
Healthcare
Home Care and Industrial
Physical Encapsulation
• SPC, PAP, MnTACN, Antifoams
Chemical Encapsulation
• Fragrances, Essential oils
Specialty Polymers
• Adhesion promotion
• Surface modification
• Control of wetting
• Rheology modification
• Delivery and substantivity
• Chelation
Specialty Polymers
• Film forming – natural and synthetic
• Moisturisation
• Fragrance deposition and
substantivity
• Hair styling
• Sensory enhancement
• Malodour control
Chemical Encapsulation
• Fragrances, Essential oils, benefit
agents
• Dispersion
© Revolymer 2016
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Revolymer Personal Care Products
Overview
4
Mulitfunctional RevCareTM Skin Sense
n
m
Multifunctional polymer
technology:
•
Natural feel film former
•
Excellent sensory profile
•
Long lasting moisturisation
•
Enhanced Fragrance longevity
•
Improved substantivity of actives
o
•
Perfect with a range of different products:
• Colour cosmetics – lipstick to foundation
• Skin care – skin cream to deodorant
•
Multiple grades available for oil and water
based formulations
•
Skin friendly & excellent toxicological
profile
•
China compliant INCI name available
© Revolymer 2016
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RevCareTM Natural Effects
REVCARE NATURAL EFFECTS PROPOSITION
•
High performing naturally derived personal care ingredients
•
100% biobased and easy to formulate
REVCARE NATURAL EFFECTS RANGE
1. RevCare NE 100S - high performance natural feel styling resin
2. Velasoft - hair and skin conditioner for shampoos, skin care, and
soaps
© Revolymer 2016
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RevCare Skin Sense
Overview
7
RevCareTM Skin Sense – Moisturisation in Lip Care
External test comparing
RevCare Skin Sense lipstick with
a market leading moisturising
lipstick
•
Product applied to inner arm of
panel of 20 people
•
Actual moisture levels measured
using corneometer
•
Compared with baseline after 1
hour in climate controlled lab
Outstanding moisturisation with
RevCare Skin Sense:
 Locks in moisture
 19% increase in
moisturisation of the skin
 67% greater increase in
moisturisation compared
with competitor
© Revolymer 2016
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RevCareTM Skin Sense – Organoleptic Benefits
The material was tested in a blind sensorial trial:
•
RevCare Skin Sense creates formulations that can be perceived for
extended periods of time
•
Skin Sense formulations observed to have enhanced skin feel including
softness and hydration
80%
70%
60%
50%
Percentage of testers who
noted long lasting film on
lips
40%
30%
20%
Lip Balm
10%
0%
Lipstick
Rev7
RevCare
Standard
© Revolymer 2016
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RevCareTM Skin Sense – Fragrance Retention
Superior longer lasting retention of fragrance in deodorant stick
Intensity Compared with Neat Fragrance
Retention of Fragrance
8
7
6
Fragrance molecules caught in RevCare
Skin Sense Film
5
4
Fragrance
Release
3
RevCare Film
2
Skin
1
0
0
0.5
1
1.5
2
2.5
Time (h)
Rev Polymer
3
Tortuous path through film gives
sustained fragrance release
Standard
© Revolymer 2016
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RevCareTM Skin Sense – Fragrance Retention by GC
Longevity of model fragrance material measured with and without Skin
Sense:
•
Samples in solvent allowed to dry in glass vials (T0), vials capped at time
points and analysed using gas chromatography
•
GC headspace - isoamyl acetate dispensed from THF solvent
GC headspace - isoamyl acetate & RCSS dispensed from THF solvent
200
peak area (pA*s)
peak area (pA*s)
800
value
value
150
600
100
100
50
50
0
0
0.0
0.5
1.0
1.5
2.0
2.5
3.0
3.5
0
•
1
2
3
4
5
Time (hr)
Time (hr)
Substantially enhanced longevity and more even release with Skin Sense
(RCSS)
© Revolymer 2016
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RevCareTM Skin Sense – Multiple Formats
•
Versions designed for ease of formulation into your product
Skin Sense Solid*
RevCare Skn 100S
Skin Sense Paste
RevCare Skn 110P
Skin Sense Dispersion
RevCare Skn 120L
Format
Solid
Paste
Liquid
RCSS Active
100%
40%
25%
Example Uses
Anhydrous products, oil
phase of emulsions
Emulsions, creams
Transparent water
based products
* RevCare Skn 100S is the best form for incorporation into silicone based formulations, please ask
Revolymer for formulation advice
© Revolymer 2016
Page 12
RevCareTM Skin Sense - Summary
BENEFITS OF REVCARE SKIN SENSE
1. Outstanding long lasting moisturisation
2. Enhanced skin feel
3. Retention of actives on the skin
4. Retention of fragrance on the skin
5. Retention of colour on the skin
© Revolymer 2016
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REVCARE NATURAL EFFECTS
14
Natural High Performance Polymers
POLY(SODIUM ITACONATE)
•
Sodium salt of polycarboxylic acid
•
Derived from natural sources (100% biobased carbon) from
fermented feedstock and green processes
R = Na+ or H
n
KEY PROPERTIES
•
Excellent water solubility
•
Forms firm glossy films
•
Biodegradable
© Revolymer 2016
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REVCARE NATURAL EFFECTS
VELASOFT
16
VelasoftTM Key Benefits
MULTIPLE BENEFITS IN RINSE OFF PRODUCTS:
 Enhanced foam production
•
Reduction of surfactants & salt
•
Reduced Cost
•
Milder formulations
 Conditioning on hair
© Revolymer 2016
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VelasoftTM – Formulation Effects
Ingredient
DI water
Calfoam ES-302 (27% active)
Celquat SC 240C
VELASOFT
Caltain C 35 (35% solids)
Euxyl PE 9010
Ninol M 10 (>96% active)
Sodium Chloride
INCI
Aqua
Sodium Laureth Sulfate
Polyquaternium-10
Sodium Polyitaconate
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Phenoxyethanol (and)
Ethylhexylglycerin
Cocamide MIPA (96%)
Sodium Chloride
TOTAL
Key Properties
VISCOSITY, CPS (#3 @ 6 rpm)
Foam Volume, ml
Active Surfactant, %
Formula 1 (wt%)
q.s.
40.00
0.10
N/A
8.70
Formula 2 (wt%)
q.s.
30.60
N/A
3.00
7.20
0.50
0.50
1.00
0.50
100.00
1040 cps
330 ml
14.8
1.00
0.20
100.00
1060
520 ml
11.8
Addition of Velasoft allowed :
 20% Surfactant reduction
 60 % NaCl reduction
 60 % Foam Volume Improvement
• Sensory profile on skin and viscosity maintained
•
© Revolymer 2016
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VelasoftTM – Foam Enhancement
0 min
FORMULA 1
•
•
FORMULA 2
30 min
10 min
FORMULA 1
FORMULA 2
FORMULA 1
FORMULA 2
Quat on left, Velasoft on right
Significantly enhanced foam with Velasoft
© Revolymer 2016
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VelasoftTM – Hair Conditioning
Wet Comb/Wet Feel Evaluation on Hair Tresses
4.5
4
3.5
Score
3
2.5
Polyquaternium -10 @ 0.5%
Na Polyitaconate 5K @ 2%
Na Polyitaconate 5K @ 3%
2
Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride @ 0.5%
1.5
1
0.5
0
Combability
•
Smoothness of Hair Surface
Capable conditioning from a non-cationic material
© Revolymer 2016
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REVCARE NATURAL EFFECTS
REVCARE NE 100S STYLING RESIN
21
Trends in Personal care
•
57% of US consumers buy natural and organic products
because they don’t contain unnecessary ingredients or
chemicals
•
42% of UK consumers now prefer natural and organic
products because they believe they are better for the
environment
•
Natural personal care products accounted for 25% of the
overall Beauty market in 2015 and is projected to grow at a
compound rate of almost 10% through 2019
•
Need for high performance, natural and
sustainably derived, styling resin
Source: Kline Personal Care ingredients database 2016 and Mintel Trends 2025
© Revolymer 2016
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RevCareTM Natural Effects – Natural Film Formers
THE REVCARE NE 100S SOLUTION TO NATURAL HAIR STYLING:
 High performance natural styling with excellent environmental
protection
 Natural, soft feeling and flexible hold
 Reduced tack and flaking
 Tailored for great formulation compatibility with no solvent or preneutralisation required
 Easily washed out of hair after use
© Revolymer 2016
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RevCareTM NE 100S – Hair Styling with Excellent
Environmental Resistance
•
Styled tresses left at 35 °C, 85% relative humidity
Start - 0 hours
5%
10%
Styled with RevCare NE 100S
© Revolymer 2016
5%
10%
PVP/VA
24
RevCareTM NE 100S – Hair Styling with
Excellent Environmental Resistance
•
Styled tresses left at 35 °C, 85% relative humidity
24 hours
5%
10%
Styled with RevCare NE 100S
© Revolymer 2016
5%
10%
PVP/VA
25
RevCareTM NE 100S – Hair Styling with
Excellent Environmental Resistance
•
Styled tresses left at 35 °C, 85% relative humidity
48 hours
5%
10%
Styled with RevCare NE 100S
5%
10%
PVP/VA
 Excellent environmental resistance from RevCare NE 100S
© Revolymer 2016
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Style Retention: Results
RevCare NE 100S
PVP/VA
Acrylamide/Acrylate
Initial
1 hour
 Match for the best
petrochemically
derived resin
35 °C, 85% R.H.
3 hours
6 hours
24
hours
48
hours
VP/Acrylate
© Revolymer 2016
VA/Maleate/Acrylate
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Observations & Conclusions
• In a high humidity environment polymer films will
absorb water. Films that are too hygroscopic will
over plasticise and fail.
• Tresses treated with RevCare NE 100S retain their
style demonstrating resistance to over plasticisation
and failure of bonding between hairs
• RevCare NE 100S outperforms the PVP/VA
benchmark and is as effective as other leading
synthetic styling polymers
© Revolymer 2016
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Hair Fibre Welds
• Hair styling polymers function by forming seam and spot welds
between adjacent hair fibres
• Strong forces are exerted on welds as a result of hair movement
Seam Weld
Bending modulus is that of the composite
Spot Weld
Natural bending modulus of hair is retained
© Revolymer 2016
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Style Flexibility Method
Rod attached to
the load cell
•
Tresses are wetted
•
Product is applied
•
Tresses air-dried overnight
Hair tress fixed
to the rig
• Force required to flick curl
with a metal rod measured
using modified hair combing rig
attached to texture analyser
Movement of
the rod/load
cell assembly
© Revolymer 2016
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Style Flexibility Results - First Cycle
1800
1600
RevCare NE 100S
1400
Force (g)
1200
PVP/VA
1000
800
VP/Acrylate Copolymer
600
VA/Maleate/Acrylate
Copolymer
400
200
Acrylamide/Acrylate
Copolymer
0
0
20
40
Probe Travel Distance (mm)
© Revolymer 2016
60
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Style Flexibility Results - Second Cycle
600
500
RevCare NE 100S
Force (g)
400
PVP/VA
300
VP/Acrylate Copolymer
200
100
VA/Maleate/Acrylate
Copolymer
0
Acrylamide/Acrylate
Copolymer
0
20
40
Probe Travel Distance (mm)
60
•RevCare NE 100S delivers a soft hold and good flexibility
© Revolymer 2016
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Observations & Conclusions
• For styled hair, bending the array exerts forces on the
polymer film leading to some weld failure – subsequent
bending requires less force
• The bending force gives an indication of the inherent
softness of the hold
• Differences in forces required in consecutive bending cycles
are an indication of the flexibility of the polymer film
• RevCare NE 100S delivers a relatively soft, natural hold that
has good flexiblity
© Revolymer 2016
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Comb Resistance Method
• Tresses are wetted
• Product is applied
• Tresses air-dried
overnight
• Force required to comb
the tresses is measured
using a hair combing rig
attached to a texture
analyser
© Revolymer 2016
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Comb Resistance Results (First Cycle)
4000
RevCare NE 100S
3500
Force (g)
3000
PVP/VA
2500
2000
VP/Acrylate Copolymer
1500
VA/Maleate/Acrylate
Copolymer
1000
Acrylamide/Acrylate
Copolymer
500
0
0
20
40
60
80
Comb Travel Distance (mm)
© Revolymer 2016
100
No treatment
35
Comb Resistance Results (Second Cycle)
1600
RevCare NE 100S
1400
Force (g)
1200
PVP/VA
1000
800
VP/Acrylate Copolymer
600
VA/Maleate/Acrylate
Copolymer
400
Acrylamide/Acrylate
Copolymer
200
0
0
20
40
60
80
Comb Travel Distance (mm)
© Revolymer 2016
100
No treatment
36
Observations & Conclusions
• The force required to comb styled hair depends on how the
fibres interact – styled hair requires a larger force
• The greater the degree of welding (seam welds, number of
spot welds) the larger the combing force
• RevCare NE 100S welds lightly – comb force is low giving a
natural and touchable feeling to the hair
© Revolymer 2016
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Frizz Control Method
• Tresses are wetted
• Product is applied
• Tresses air-dried overnight
• Tresses placed in a humidity
chamber at 25 oC/85% RH
© Revolymer 2016
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Frizz Control Image Analysis
• Tress photo imported into
image analysis software
• Threshold (black/white
contrast) adjusted to
mirror the tress photo
• Tress area calculated
• Image area ratio obtained
relative to a standard
© Revolymer 2016
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Frizz Control Results
RevCare NE 100S
VP/Acrylate
Acrylamide/Acrylate
1 hour
2 hours
3 hours
24 hours
Control
PVP/VA
© Revolymer 2016
VA/Maleate/Acrylate
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Observations & Conclusions
• Hair becomes frizzy owing to hydrogen bonds
between adjacent fibres being broken
• Styling polymers supplement the degree of interfibre bonds
• This bonding is diminished gradually as the
polymer film hydrates and plasticises
• RevCare NE 100S bonds hair lightly and is
resistant to plasticisation helping to prevent frizz
© Revolymer 2016
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RevCareTM NE 100S Summary
 Polymer styling technology derived from natural sources (up to
100% carbon) using green and sustainable processes
 Biodegradable
 Good formulation compatibility with no alcohol or preneutralisation required
 Natural feel styling with low flaking and tack
 Excellent environmental resistance
 Outstanding anti-frizz agent
© Revolymer 2016
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Revolymer (U.K.) Ltd
1 Newtech Square
Zone 2, Deeside Industrial Park
Deeside
Flintshire, UK
CH5 2NT
Tel: +44 (0) 1244 283 542
Email: tom.castle@revolymer.com
www.revolymer.com
RevCare Natural Effects
See it in the Innovation Zone Box 11
© Revolymer 2016
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Appendices
Formulation Examples
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RevCareTM Skin Sense – Deodorant Example
Name
Weight%
Cetyl Alcohol
6.0
C18-36 Acid Triglyceride
6.0
Tribehenin
3.0
Oleth-5
1.0
RevCare Skn 100S
5.0
Octyl Palmitate
20.6
Cyclomethicone
10.1
Pentaerythritol Tetracaprylate/Caprate
5.0
Al Zr Tetrachlorohydrate Gly
20.1
Talc
22.6
Preservative
0.5
Phase
A
B
C
Method:
1) Heat phases A and B to 80 °C and
mix molten ingredients.
2) Add phase B to phase A with
stirring and homogenise mixture.
3) Add Phase C with stirring.
4) Add Phase D with stirring.
5) Allow formulation to cool to 60 °C
and pour into deodorant tubes.
D
© Revolymer 2016
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RevCareTM Skin Sense – Lip Balm Example
Name
Weight%
RevCare Skn 100S
2.00
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
21.25
Polyethylene
10.00
Beeswax
5.00
Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-1
15.00
Isopropyl Myristate
5.00
Ricinus Communis Oil
20.00
Olus (vegetable) oil
Butyrospermum Parkii
8.00
10.00
Dl-alpha-Tocopheryl Acetate
0.50
Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin
0.20
Sodium Saccharin
0.05
Mentha Piperita
2.00
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
1.00
Phase
© Revolymer 2016
A
B
Method:
1) Melt RevCare polymer and
Caprylic triglyceride at 90 °C
followed by remainder of
ingredients in phase A.
2) Cool to 80 °C , add phase B
and mix in.
3) Mix in ingredients of phase
C until homogenous.
4) Pour into lip balm tubes
whilst hot.
C
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RevCareTM Skin Sense – Skin Cream Example
Raw Material
Water
INCI
Aqua
Weight%
68.20
Phase
Pricerine™ 9091
Glycerin
5.00
A
Keltrol® CG
Xanthan Gum
0.20
Crodamol IPP
Isopropyl Palmitate
12.00
Lipomulse® Luxe
Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Glyceryl
Stearate (and) PEG-40 Stearate
(and) Ceteareth-20
4.50
Crodacol™ C90
Cetyl Alcohol
2.00
RevCare Skn 100S
BELSIL® DM 100
Euxyl® PE 9010
Bell Cucumber
Fantasy ECO
0803081
Isoprene/MA/Methoxy PEG-40
Copolymer (and) PEG-40
Methoxy Ether
Dimethicone
Phenoxyethanol (and)
Ethylhexylglycerin
B
Method:
1) Mix phase A, heat to 75 °C
2) Mix ingredients in order,
melting RCSS at 75 °C
3) Add phase B to phase A
with stirring and homogenise
4) Add phase C at 40 °C
5.00
2.00
1.00
C
Parfum
0.10
© Revolymer 2016
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RevCareTM NE 100S Formulation Example –
Natural Hair Spray
Raw Material
INCI
Weight%
Water
Aqua
92.00
Pricerine™ 9091
Glycerin
0.50
DL Panthenol
Panthenol
0.50
RevCare NE 100S
Sodium Polyitaconate
5.00
MinaSolve Green B
Pentylene Glycol (and) Aqua (and)
Sodium Benzoate (and) Benzoic Acid
2.00
Phase
A
Method:
• Add ingredients in order and stir until dissolved
•
No heating required
© Revolymer 2016
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RevCareTM NE 100S Formulation Example –
Natural Hair Mousse
Raw Material
INCI
Weight%
Water
Aqua
86.00
Pricerine™ 9091
Glycerin
0.50
DL Panthenol
Panthenol
0.50
RevCare NE 100S
Sodium Polyitaconate
5.00
Olivoil Glutamate FOKSNaB
Sodium Olivoyl Glutamate
6.00
MinaSolve Green B
Pentylene Glycol (and) Aqua (and)
Sodium Benzoate (and) Benzoic Acid
2.00
Phase
A
Method:
• Add ingredients in order and stir until dissolved
•
No heating required
© Revolymer 2016
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