Climbing Omis guide
Transcription
Climbing Omis guide
OMIŠ CLIMBING GUIDE Rock climbing is inherently dangerous activity. Find a competent instructor or enroll in climbing lessons before You attempt to climb. Author of this guide assumes no responsibility for accuracy of information contained herein. Any action taken in reliance to this guide will be at Your own risk. www.climbingomis.com Crags __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ 1. Peovo 2. Planovo 3. Babina Bara 4. Visoke Pole 5. Vojan 6. Stomorica 7. Crvena stina 8. Babnjača 9. Komornjak 10. Lisičina 11. Ilinac 12. Mile Gojsalić __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Disclaimer: Author of this guide assumes no responsibility for accuracy of information contained herein. Any action taken in reliance to this guide will be at your own risk. www.climbingomis.com 2/21 φ 43°26´40˝ N λ 16°41´39˝ N __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Peovo 1. Bagulin 2. Cesarica 3. Borna 4. Marino 5. Dr. Ivan Merz 6. Lix 7. UFO 8. Čista ljubav 9. HEPpy day 7b+/c 7a 6b+ 6a+/b 6c+ 6a+ 6c+/7a 6c+ 7b+ 25 m 25 m 22 m 25 m 25 m 14 m 20 m 20 m 22 m __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Disclaimer: Author of this guide assumes no responsibility for accuracy of information contained herein. Any action taken in reliance to this guide will be at your own risk. www.climbingomis.com 3/21 φ 43°26´53˝ N λ 16°41´40˝ N __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Planovo multipitch 1. Nede 5b 22 m , 6a 20 m 2. Svemir Millenium Bug 6a 23 m, 6b+ 20 m, 7c+ 10 m 3. Kambo Belveda 5b 23 m, 6a 18 m __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Disclaimer: Author of this guide assumes no responsibility for accuracy of information contained herein. Any action taken in reliance to this guide will be at your own risk. www.climbingomis.com 4/21 φ 43°26´53˝ N λ 16°41´40˝ N __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Planovo left 1. Škofjeloška 2. Budas Bauerr 3. First 4. Guzonjin sin 5. Flecko 6. Sado mazo 6c+ 6b 5c 7b+ 7a 6c+ 14 m 14 m 12 m 10 m 10 m 10 m __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Disclaimer: Author of this guide assumes no responsibility for accuracy of information contained herein. Any action taken in reliance to this guide will be at your own risk. www.climbingomis.com 5/21 φ 43°26´53˝ N λ 16°41´40˝ N __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Planovo middle 1. Bećar 2. Alkar 3. Bože oprosti 4. Artis 5. Nede 6. Leut omiški 7. Luči 8. Svemir 9. Joskan 10. Kate 11. Active Holidays 12. Apartmani Kuzmić 13. Rosa Luxemburg 14. Antun Tun 15. Pop Slindro 16. Tonka se prokurbala 17. Manteo 18. Šišme 19. Fanta 20. Jube 21. Čakija 22. FBI 23. Velebita 6b 7a 6a 5b 5b 6a 5b 6a 5b 5a 5a 6a 6a 5a 5c 5c 4c 5a 4b 4a 5c 6b 5b 27 m 27 m 30 m 22 m 22 m 22 m 22 m 23 m 23 m 23 m 23 m 22 m 22 m 23 m 22 m 22 m 22 m 24 m 9m 9m 23 m 24 m (no anchor on FBI, one bolt only) 24 m __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Disclaimer: Author of this guide assumes no responsibility for accuracy of information contained herein. Any action taken in reliance to this guide will be at your own risk. www.climbingomis.com 6/21 φ 43°26´53˝ N λ 16°41´40˝ N __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Planovo right 1. 12:59 2. Ne jedi patuljke 3. Mućka 4. Kambo Belveda 5. Djevica 6. Ana 7. Kokica 6a+ 6a+ 6a 5b 6c+ 7a 6a+ 25 m 23 m 22 m 23 m 32 m 32 m 31 m __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Disclaimer: Author of this guide assumes no responsibility for accuracy of information contained herein. Any action taken in reliance to this guide will be at your own risk. www.climbingomis.com 7/21 φ 43°27´00˝ N λ 16°41´44˝ N __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Babina bara 1. Bravo tata 2. Leon 3. Oz 4. Miki Silni 5. Iva piva 6. Sila nečista 7. Manjinjorgo 8. Krv u možđane 9. Božje gletovani 10. Me too Heike 11. Ganpi 12. Mama Mira 13. Babilo 5c 7c 7c+ 6c+ 6b+ 6c 7a 7a 7b+ 6a 6c+ 6b 5c 23 m , 6b 10 m 13 m 12 m 14 m 14 m 17 m 18 m 23 m 17 m 26 m 26 m 26 m 26 m 14. Iden doma 15. Zorka 16. Hrca Štemer 17. Moco i trimer 18. Prvi 19. Imberlani 20. Zara 21. Vrt 22. Vukojarac 23. Jaropas 24. Odstupi Đavle 25. Gutman 26. Baleša 6c 6a+ 6a 6a+ 5b 5c 5c 6c 5a 5c 6c+ 5c 5a 16 m 16 m 15 m 27 m 15 m 27 m 16 m , 5a 24m 15 m 33 m 33 m 15 m 15 m 16 m __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Disclaimer: Author of this guide assumes no responsibility for accuracy of information contained herein. Any action taken in reliance to this guide will be at your own risk. www.climbingomis.com 8/21 φ 43°27´00˝ N λ 16°42´03˝ N __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Vojan 1. Čuvita 2. Čabi 3. Poljički 4. Linea 5. Mesečina ubava 6. Treba 7. Drolja 8. Leptirov učinak 9. Bagavi 10. Satarluk 11. Splitski imiđ 12. Hrabro srce 13. Plaurita 14. Gita 15. Njunjavi 16. Šupjača 6a 7c 6c 6b+ 6a+ 4a 6a 5c 6b 7a+/b 6b 6c+ 6a+ 7a+ 6a 6a 35 m 18 m 25 m 25 m 25 m 12 m 12 m 25 m , 3 25 m 26 m 26 m 26 m 32 m 32 m 32 m 32 m 15 m __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Disclaimer: Author of this guide assumes no responsibility for accuracy of information contained herein. Any action taken in reliance to this guide will be at your own risk. www.climbingomis.com 9/21 φ 43°27´00˝ N λ 16°41´57˝ N __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Visoke pole 1. Petar Pan 2. Kapetan Kuka 3. Snjeguljica 4. Pepeljuga 5. Za Miljenka 6. Trnoružica 7. Crvenkapica 8. Šrek 9. Cvilidreta 10. Motovilka 11. Pinokijo 12. Đepeto 13. Novak Gerome 14. Rafting Pinta 6a 6b 6c+ 6c 6a 7a 7c 6b+ 6c 6a+ 6a+ 5c 8a+ 7b+/c 16 m 16 m 18 m 20 m 18 m 22 m 18 m 18 m 16 m 15 m 13 m 13 m 10 m 30 m 15. R & B 16. Sex je precjenjen 17. Kastracija ili masturbacija 18. Zabranjena ljubav 19. WASP 20. Papa je s vama 21. Za Stanislava 22. Hašiš 23. Droga 24. I kiseli kupus 25. Twist off 26. Velebitsko 27. Kasačko 28. Radler 7b+ 7b+ 6c+ 7b+ 7b 6c+ 6b 7b+/c 7b 7b 5c 6c 6c+ 6c+ 20 m 21 m 20 m 18 m 18 m 18 m 18 m 23 m 23 m 23 m 15 m 15 m 14 m 14 m __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Disclaimer: Author of this guide assumes no responsibility for accuracy of information contained herein. Any action taken in reliance to this guide will be at your own risk. www.climbingomis.com 10/21 φ 43°26´41˝ N λ 16°40´52˝ N __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Stomorica multipitch 1. Canadair 6a+ 250 m (6a, 6a+, 5c, 6a+, 5b - only first 3 pitches are recommended for sport climbing) 2. Forma piva (5c, 4a, 6a+, 6a/a+, 5b) 6a+ 200 m 3. Splitski akvarel (6b, 6c, 6c+) 6c+ 90 m __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Disclaimer: Author of this guide assumes no responsibility for accuracy of information contained herein. Any action taken in reliance to this guide will be at your own risk. www.climbingomis.com 11/21 φ 43°26´41˝ N λ 16°40´52˝ N __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Stomorica 1. Kapljica 2. Dobri i mrtvi 3. Komoštra 4. 37,2 ujutro 5. Jump 6. Splitski akvarel 7. Paradise City 8. Pasija 9. Neno Pipin 10. Bordoška juva 11. Cidokor 12. Tičica 13. Hobotnica 14. Kanava 15. Chicken 16. Iris 17. Musaka 18. Lajka 19. Quasimodo 20. Fatamorgana 21. Gargamel 6a 6c 6c/c+ 6a+ 6c/c+ 6c+ 7b+ 7c+ 6c+ 6b/b+ 5a 4b 4c 6b 6b 5c 6a 5a 6a+ 5c 6b+ 25 m 24 m 24 m 25 m 25 m 90 m 18 m 18 m 33 m 20 m 20 m 18 m 18 m 25 m 25 m 40 m 19 m 19 m 19 m 19 m 18 m __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Disclaimer: Author of this guide assumes no responsibility for accuracy of information contained herein. Any action taken in reliance to this guide will be at your own risk. www.climbingomis.com 12/21 φ 43°26´46˝ N λ 16°40´57˝ N __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Crvena stina 1. Bon bon (5c, 5b, 5a, 6a) 6a 140 m __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Disclaimer: Author of this guide assumes no responsibility for accuracy of information contained herein. Any action taken in reliance to this guide will be at your own risk. www.climbingomis.com 13/21 φ 43°26´51˝ N λ 16°41´16˝ N __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Babnjača 1. Za Karlu 2. Fićo i Tomo 3. HPD Imotski 4. Gagin 5. Nemesis 6. Đ&B / Relax 6b+ 6b+ 6b 6a 7b 4c 220 m 22 m 27 m , 7b+ 30 m , 8a+ 20 m , 7a 20 m , 6c+ 23 m 25 m 30 m 150 m * Relax(1st pitch Đ&B): 4c / 20 m, 3 / 40 m, 6c / 30 m, 6a / 30 m, 6c/c+ / 30 m * Za Karlu: 4c, 6a+, 6b+, only first 3 pitches are recommended for sport climbing __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Disclaimer: Author of this guide assumes no responsibility for accuracy of information contained herein. Any action taken in reliance to this guide will be at your own risk. www.climbingomis.com 14/21 φ 43°26´51˝ N λ 16°41´16˝ N __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Babnjača overhang 1. Show them tits (Liar) 2. Rex Croatorum Tomislav 3. Bono 4. Zimski san 7b+/c 8a 7c 7c+ 12 m 12 m 14 m 14 m __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Disclaimer: Author of this guide assumes no responsibility for accuracy of information contained herein. Any action taken in reliance to this guide will be at your own risk. www.climbingomis.com 15/21 φ 43°26´57˝ N λ 16°41´24˝ N __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Komornjak 1. Skriveno zlato (5b, 6a, 6a, 6a+, 5b) 6a+ 150 m __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Disclaimer: Author of this guide assumes no responsibility for accuracy of information contained herein. Any action taken in reliance to this guide will be at your own risk. www.climbingomis.com 16/21 φ 43°27´02˝ N λ 16°41´08˝ N __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Lisičina 1. Nema logike 2. Šikurpuš 3. AC/DC 4. Smrič 6b 6b 6a+ 6a+ 14 m 14 m 15 m 15 m __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Disclaimer: Author of this guide assumes no responsibility for accuracy of information contained herein. Any action taken in reliance to this guide will be at your own risk. www.climbingomis.com 17/21 φ 43°27´35˝ N λ 16°42´08˝ N __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Ilinac 1. Mila i tri debila (5c, 6a/a+, 5b, 6b) 6b 150 m 2. Adventure Dalmatia (5c, 6b, 6a/a+, 6b) 6b 120 m 3. Za Joku 6c+ (4a, 5b, 3, 6a, 6b, 6c+, 6a, 6c) 200 m 4. Pazi poskok (4a, 5b, 5a, 6a, 6a, 6a) 180 m 6a 5. Secret of Cetina 6b+ 300 m (5c/45m, 6b+/40m, 6a/30m, 6b+/45m, 5a/52m,5a/48m, 5c/45m ) 6. Rambo (5a, 5b, 5c, 5a, 5b, 6a) 6a 7. Freedom 6b (5c, 5a, 6a, 6b, 5a, 6b, 6a+) 230 m 220 m __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Disclaimer: Author of this guide assumes no responsibility for accuracy of information contained herein. Any action taken in reliance to this guide will be at your own risk. www.climbingomis.com 18/21 φ 43°27´42˝ N λ 16°42´00˝ N __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Mile Gojsalić 1. Pipa in America 2. Za Petra 3. Stršljen Selma 4. Kristal 5. The Clash 6. Porodica Zlikovsky 7. Skupo đubre 8. Babo Atif 7a+ 6b+ 6a+ 6b 8a 7a/a+ 6b 6b+ 25 m 30 m 18 m 18 m 16 m 15 m 14 m 15 m !! some routes here have doubtful anchor __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Disclaimer: Author of this guide assumes no responsibility for accuracy of information contained herein. Any action taken in reliance to this guide will be at your own risk. www.climbingomis.com 19/21 φ 43°26´40˝ N λ 16°43´26˝ N __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Perivoj 1. Baltazar 2. Rubikova kocka (5c / 35 m, 6c / 35 m) 6b 6c 35 m 70 m __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Disclaimer: Author of this guide assumes no responsibility for accuracy of information contained herein. Any action taken in reliance to this guide will be at your own risk. www.climbingomis.com 20/21 GRADE CONVERSION TABLE __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ France UIAA USA Great Britain 5a V 5.7 4c 5b V+ 5.8 5c VI- 5.9 6a VI 5.10a 6a+ VI+ 5.10b 6b VII- 5.10c 6b+ VII 5.10d 6c VII+ 5.11a 6c+ VIII- 5.11b 7a 7a+ 5.11c VIII 5.11d VIII+ 5.12a 7b 5.12b 7b+ IX- 5.12c 7c IX 5.12d 7c+ 8a IX+ 5.13a X- 5.13c 8b X 5.13d 8b+ X+ 5.14a 8c XI- 5.14b 9a 5.14c XI 5b 5c 6a 6b 6c 5.13b 8a+ 8c+ 5a 7a 7b 5.14d __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Disclaimer: Author of this guide assumes no responsibility for accuracy of information contained herein. Any action taken in reliance to this guide will be at your own risk. www.climbingomis.com 21/21