No. 2 - Capsule

ISSUE No 2
JUNE 2012
(capsule)
CAPSULESHOW.COM
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TWITTER/INSTAGRAM @CAPSULESHOW
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FACEBOOK.COM/CAPSULESHOW
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WEARETHEMARKET.COM
A DECADE OF OI POLLOI
Way back in 2002 in the city of Manchester, England, Steve Sanderson and Nigel
Lawson opened a shop with a unique concept that became one of the most enviable
menswear destinations in the world. With an emphasis on heritage, quality, and style
the Oi Polloi philosophy became the launch pad of a movement. Steve and Nigel’s
extraordinary understanding and tenacious pursuit of the world’s most sought
after classic and contemporary labels have impacted the way men dress today,
undoubtedly for the better. We spoke with the always charming Steve about 10 years
of Oi Polloi.
⁞
80 EIGHTH AVE/№ 202 NYC
THE
PURSUITS
OF A
GENTLEMAN
British style writer Simon
Crompton breaks down
the essentials
I've never subscribed to the view that sartorial style must be
associated with particular interests or pursuits. I don't like
cocktails. I hate swanky bars. I have no interest in jewelry,
dogs, etiquette or classic cars. Polo, horse racing: neither
have ever held much attraction.
This probably permanently excludes me from being a dandy,
certainly a rake. But then, descriptions of these men always
seem to omit two things fundamental to my enjoyment of
life: family and sport.
This is, as per usual, a wandering introduction to my main
point: that there are certain characteristics commonly
ascribed to a gentleman that I do like, and deserve greater
attention. They tend to be more personal, rather than public
pleasures. They are probably less prone to pre-tense. My
favourites are:
Writing. Having nice notepaper, not decorated, not bearing
the announcement 'From the desk of Mr X', but nice wellmade paper, and writing notes to people. When you've
visited a wonderful craftsman. When people have taken
you into their home, or otherwise shown hospitality. Such
a note displays rare consideration, expresses genuine and
thoughtful thanks.
Capsule: Congratulations on a decade in business! That’s quite a milestone, especially with the recent economic turmoil worldwide. What do you
think is the secret to your success? And what are you guys doing to celebrate?
Steve Sanderson: Thank you. We didn't set off with a map and a big plan, but we've have been pretty good at adapting and changing the things we
do as we go along. I think that's our strength, being small helps when we want to change direction, we can do this quicker than the bigger retailers.
As for celebrating our 10th birthday, we've got a party planned but it’s nothing big or flash. It's for everyone that's been involved – our friends,
customers, and people we've worked with… it's going to be pretty good.
C: Please share with us a little background – who were the original founders of Oi Polloi? And what were you doing before?
SS: There are two, Nigel Lawson & myself, Stephen Sanderson. Before setting up Oi Polloi I used to cut hair. I had my own business for 10 years,
but the problem was that I was always more interested in footwear and clothes, always had been. Meanwhile Nigel had a little unit in Affleck’s
Palace selling Henri Lloyd and vintage trainers. This was the early nineties before most other folk had cottoned on. He then went traveling, stayed
on a reservation in Arizona with some dude called Grey Wolf and learnt how to make moccasins before setting up a clothes label called 'elk' then
we went out for curry one night and Oi Polloi was born…
C: Were you always into fashion? What was your style like as a teenager?
SS: I wouldn't like to call it fashion, more of an interest in youth culture, different types of groups. I didn't know this at the time, but that's what
it was and still is today. I'm more into it now than ever. Someone once told me, if you do something you love, you'll never tire of it. They were
right. As for what I was into as a teenager, what wasn't I into? That'd be an easier question. Both myself and Nige grew up on the outskirts of
Manchester, living twisted parallel existences, I'm about 3 years older, that's a lot of years in a teenager’s life. I think music and Adidas were my
first loves, the problem is, I’ve always had a wide and varied taste in music. This probably started in the first year of secondary school, another
mate (who happened to be called Nigel) had an older brother. This is the key to being on it, cool, whatever you want to call it. When you’re at
school other peoples older brothers know their shit, better than any of your same age mates. I'm going to have to cut to the chase (that's another
thing that's good, not always better than the catch, if you ask Nige he might have a different answer, he's a collector, me, I’m just a hunter). I love
the chase…luxury sports casual clothing, that was my thing…listening to Led Zep, Pink Floyd, Talking Heads, The Jam…I could go on for hours
about it
C: We’ve noticed that several companies are celebrating their 10th anniversary this year. Was there a particular event or occurrence that prompted
you to start the store in 2002?
Washing. More formal clothing forces you to slowdown in
certain ways - to put in your cufflinks, to brush your shoes
and put them away at the end of the day. Washing your
hands and face slowly and thoroughly is an extension of
that: taking the time to take care of yourself. It is a far more
selfish pleasure than writing, but no less worth the effort.
Take time to shave. Wash in warm water, dry and apply a
touch of moisturiser, adjust your tie and leave the bathroom
feeling refreshed. If you work in an office all day, it's as good
a pick-me-up as a shot of espresso.
Politeness. I think I've always been polite. They taught you
to hold the door open for others when I was at school. But I
appreciate it more the older I get. It is gentleness that makes
a gentleman. It is, for me, a natural extension of the careful
consideration you now give to what you wear and what you
surround yourself with. It is personal; it is not etiquette.
Etiquette is public.
Craft. That last point leads naturally onto the way in which
you consume other things in your life. Having found out so
much about how my shoes and my jacket are made, I want
to know at least a little about how my table is made. Not
because I want to start collecting antiques, but because I
want to know where the value resides. All those quotes from
gentlemen about surrounding themselves with the very best?
They didn't mean just the most expensive. And the best is
very personal – it might mean old, worn and inherited.
Subtlety. I like that a man's largest piece of jewelry, his
watch, is actually hidden most of the time. Or should be.
That principal of subtlety can be extended to many other
areas of life. •
(continues on back page)
The Pleasures of a Gentleman reproduced with permission from Permanent Style
INTRODUCTIONS
Capsule was started in 2007 to develop a global network of like-minded people that conceptualize, create,
desire, and buy the clothes that epitomize a new utopian vision of forward progress. Artisans, strategists,
devotees, and style leaders converge on Capsule to share this vision and bring it to life. When you come to
Capsule, you know you’re In Good Company.
PHIL-G.
Co-founder of SOTO, Berlin (sotostore.com)
Co-founder of MADE (made-blog.com), Founder of
BAM Agency
Lives in: Kreuzberg, Berlin.
Style advice: Understatement is key.
About Capsule: It's kind of funny to see all the
same people in 3 different cities within two weeks.
Favorite Restaurant: DUDU, Nam & Chi are
definitely the best hosts in town! dudu-berlin.de
Style Icon: Robert Rabensteiner
Favorite Thing You Own: SOTO
GARANCE BROCA
Designer, Monsieur Lacenaire
Lives in: Paris in the Upper Marais
Personal Style: I like to wear men's clothes.
Favorite Restaurant: Taxi Jaune, rue Chapon in
Paris
Favorite Gadget: The new iPhone app NOW,
awesome to know what's going on.
Style Icon: My grandpa Favorite Thing: My grandpa's Boucheron alligator
watch. Special Summer Plans: Baleapop, à tiny art and
electronic festival at Guetary, in Pays Basques .
Perfect Beach Read: Monocle magazine
Always has when traveling: A Muji sketchbook.
HERMANO SILVA
Photographer & blogger thegentleman.com.br
Lives in: Berlin, Germany
Personal Style: Classics with hints of colour.
Style Advice or Mantra: Less is more.
What do you love about Capsule? To discover new
talented designers and nice brands every season.
Favorite City to Visit: New York, Paris, & São
Paulo.
Favorite Restaurant: Mr Chow, London
Favorite Book: Berlin Novels, by Christopher
Isherwood
Coveted Item: A tailor-made kilt made in Scotland.
Favorite Possession: My photographic cameras.
Kerstin Geffert
Stefano Ughetti
SART. HISTORY 101:
THE MDRP
Jian Deleon
Frederik Frede
The OG crew that sought to improve menswear in the name of
liberty and looks.
Hanni El Khatib is the latest spitfire to breath new life
into the American rock and roll scene. After releasing
his debut album Will The Guns Come Out last year,
he has been working with producer Dan Auerbach of
the Black Keys on his next release. Khatib’s throaty
blues vocals oil out the edge on his garage rock guitar
riffs and the result lands him somewhere between a
60’s doo-wop sweetheart and the grungy skater kid he
was growing up. He spent years acting as the creative
director for skateboarder Kevin Hufnagel’s clothing
line HUF, and his uniform of jeans, a tee and a leather
jacket show that classic American style is something
that lives in him. In Hanni’s own words his music is for
“anyone who has ever been shot or hit by a train.” Keep
your ears out for Khatib’s jams this summer – and don’t
miss his live performance at Capsule’s party in Berlin.
The Horse - Cliff Nobles & Co.
Love Buzz - Shocking Blue
Zig Zag Wanderer - Captain Beefheart
Sound and Vision - David Bowie
He's Waiting - The Sonics
I Wanna Be Free - Joe Tex
Go, Girl, Go - Jett Powers
Oo-Ma-Liddi - JJ Jackson
Up From The South - The Budos Band
Wandering Wanderer - Don Cavelli
*According to a study by The Life Extension Institute. Yes, times were
tough enough that something called The Life Extension Institute existed.
CORY OHLENDORF @valetmag
Editor and Co-Founder, Valetmag.com
Lives in: Los Angeles
Personal Style: Slightly rumpled but refined.
Style Advice: Focus on quality and fit and you'll
never go wrong.
What do you love about Capsule? The chance to
meet new people, catch up with old friends, and get
a glimpse of the future.
Favorite Restaurant: I eat at R+D Kitchen in Santa
Monica way too much.
Favorite Book: Every summer I read some
Hemingway.
Coveted Item: Currently a Boglioli unstructured
blazer.
Special Summer Plans: Looking forward to road
tripping more through the United States.
SILAS ADLER @silasadler1985
Men’s Wear Designer, Soulland
Lives in: Copenhagen
Personal Style: Afro-scandi
Style Advice: Feel good, Do good, and Look good
About Capsule: We have been a part of it for such
a long time so it feels like coming home every time
the fair starts. Good vibes!
Favorite Restaurant: NOMA Copenhagen
Favorite Book: Le Petit Prince, Extremely Loud
and Incredibly Close, Keith, anything from Malcolm
Gladwell and the list goes on!
Favorite Hotel: I don't like staying at hotels. I
prefer apartments. But I do love hotel bars and New
York's got the best hotel bars for sure!
Favorite Thing You Own: My favorite things are
neither things nor do I own them…
HANNI’S
SUMMER
PLAYLIST
Enrico Grigoletti
Silas Adler
ENRICO GRIGOLETTI @contempstandard
Founder of Contemporary Standard & Co-founder
of Studio Fantastico
Lives in: Verona & Milan
Personal Style: As simple and functional as
possible.
Style Mantra: I am sorry I can't hear you over the
sound of how awesome I am.
About Capsule: I don't need any other tradeshow to
find what I love.
Favorite Restaurant: Ropetòn in Verona or Di
Matteo in Naples.
Favorite Gadget: A folding comb or my Japanese
scissors.
Coveted Item: I'm still wishing for that Hans
Wegner wishbone chair.
FREDERIK FREDE @fvonf
Freunde von Freunden
Lives in: Berlin
Style Advice or Mantra: Be yourself and listen.
Favorite Restaurant: Goldener Hahn in Berlin //
Isa in New York
Favorite Book: Freunde von Freunden Berlin ;)
Favorite Hotel: Staying at friend's when possible.
Coveted Item: Coffee
Style Icon: Helmut Lang
Favorite Possession: Canon 5D
Cory Ohlendorf
Garance Broca
JIAN DELEON @jiandeleon
Staff Writer, Complex Magazine
Lives in: Lower East Caucasia, NY
Personal Style: A walking cliché
Capsule Plug: The pastries are awesome.
Favorite Restaurant: Is it still cool to say "The
Meatball Shop?"
Favorite Book: David Sedaris' Dress Your Family
In Corduroy and Denim, because the title doubles as
excellent style advice.
Coveted Item: I would love a Rick Owens python
leather biker jacket. It's so Wild At Heart meets
The Outsiders.
Style Icon: Old people in Wu-Wear.
Favorite Possession: Levi's Commuter Chinos,
because I bike a lot and they're awesome.
STEFANO UGHETTI @stefano_ughetti
Designer, CAMO
Lives in: Biella, Italy
Personal Style: I like navy color and simple things.
What do you love about Capsule? Capsule guys
Favorite Hotel: The Jane Hotel in NYC
Favorite Gadget: Tennis ball
Coveted Item: Capsule necklace
Style Icon: My dad
Movie to watch on a plane: Airplane!
Phil-G.
Hermano Silva
KERSTIN GEFFERT
CEO Silk Relations GmbH
Lives in: Berlin
Style Advice or Mantra: FYI - Follow Your
Instinct
Favorite City to Visit: Paris
Favorite Restaurant: Alpenstück, Berlin
Favorite Hotel: The Standard, New York
Your Twitter Handle: I don't do twitter, I do
Instagram.
Favorite Possession: The heart of my husband… ;-)
As the weather begins its ascent toward the sweltering crest of loin-rotting summer, please take a moment to
consider how lucky you are to not be living pre-1929. That was the year internationally renowned radiologist
Dr. Alfred Charles Jordan founded the Men’s Dress Reform Party, a bizarre and fascinating chapter in
men’s fashion. The London-based group believed that “Men’s dress has sunk into a rut of ugliness and
unhealthiness from which – by common consent it should be rescued.” In bringing about change, the MDRP
aimed to improve “appearance, hygiene, comfort and convenience.” To prove his point Dr. Jordan caused a
tremendous scandal when he was photographed / streetstyled bicycling to work in shorts. At the time shorts
were accepted only on Boy Scouts and on holiday (and assumingly while committing colonial slaughter) but
the sartorial divide between city and country was absolute.
INSTALLATIONS…
INSPIR ATIONS
The MDRP’s first beef with the state of menswear was made very clear in their first report in 1929: “Men’s
dress is ugly, uncomfortable, dirty (because unwashable), unhealthy (because heavy, tight and unventilated).”
To provide some context, this was an era when a man wore 8 pounds of clothing a day*. Extolling personal
comfort and health while keeping a handsome appearance, Dr. Jordan’s organization encouraged the use of
“shirts of rayon or fine poplin; jackets-and-shorts suits (or jacket-and-kilt suits) of fine worsted or cashmere;
good stockings to match.”
Style-wise, the MDRP waged war on the homogenous standard that was a result of the Industrial Revolution
and mass production of drab menswear. They called for tailors and men both to enable “greater range of
individual style than is possible with men’s present very stereotyped costumes.” Funny how this 83 year old
call to experiment with individual style carries echoes of current day bloggers and style advisors. Is getting
guys to dress better really that sisyphean of a task?! #FuckIt
Putting out the call for “men and women, old and young, rich and poor…interested in healthier and better
clothes for men” to “reform their clothes with as much profit to health and appearance as women have
recently achieved,” in its 11 year existence the MDRP did experience a limited but still impressive measure
of success. Designers and tailors began using lighter fabrics in constructing “reform clothing,” and the
group’s message was taken up by numerous supporting organizations. The Sunlight League, whose mission
was to raise awareness of the benefits of sunlight, was an ardent supporter. The MDRP operated out of
their headquarters until 1940, when the Sunlight League was bombed for wanting to raise awareness of the
benefits of sunlight. This bombing, the onset of WWII, and issues beyond #menswearproblems brought the
end of the Men’s Dress Reform Party, a strange and interesting episode that in the end, had more to do with
eugenics and racial superiority than dressing well. More on that below.
For more on the gender politics, entwinement with eugenics, and the hysteria that occurred when these
British men showed off their legs along with proper analysis, check out Barbara Burman’s chapter “Better
and Brighter Clothes: The Men’s Dress Reform Party, 1929 – 1940” in The Men’s Fashion Reader, and also
Alex Jung’s article “Come As You Are” in The Morning News.
– James Harris
A whole bunch of new people are joining our community, and bringing along their exciting work. For the
SS13 season, Capsule will be introducing a series of unique experiential spaces created by some of New
York’s most creative people. The installations pop up throughout the show floor and will explore artistic
expression and culture beyond clothing. These experiences, created by the likes of Best Made Co., New York
Art Department, Kings County Salvage, by Kenyan, and the iconic design shop MATTER will integrate
numerous walks of life into Capsule. Don’t know about y’all, but we’re set to be inspired by this multidimensional addition to the show.
Cartoon by Shipley & Halmos/Poster by Best Made Co.
Capsule
ft. Artist:
Micah Lidberg
After seeing the curious and evocative creations
of Kansas City Missouri-based artist Micah Lidberg
in publications like the New York Times and Nylon
magazine, and had an afternoon lost in his amazing
concertina book Rise and Fall which he created for
Nobrow Press. We knew we had to get him on board
for the Capsule season. Using just mechanical pencils,
paper, and a computer Micah creates fantastic
environments filled with unusual juxtapositions
of nature and culture- all sorts of flora and fauna
populate his imagination and his art. We are excited
to present his specially designed works for Capsule. “I
wanted to make an image that reflected a bright and
alive community. Something that celebrates diversity,
creativity, and had the energy of summer - my favorite
season!,” he explains.
Read an exclusive interview with Micah at
wearethemarket.com
Check out his portfolio at micahlidberg.com
Woodland Party created for Capsule SS13
WHAT’S IT ALL ABOUT?
ARE YOU
PACKING?
Josh Sims has covered the global menswear scene for over a decade. His
outstanding body of work, which includes the books Cult Streetwear, Icons of
Men’s Style, and A Dictionary of Fashion Designers as well as numerous articles has
cemented him as one of the premiere menswear experts in the world. We caught up
with Josh to talk about the current state of menswear, and about his new book due
out this summer on London’s legendary Vintage Showroom.
It's travel season! Etiquette
Clothiers demonstrates the
best way to fill a suitcase
Capsule: You’ve covered the menswear market from a historical perspective in your books Cult Streetwear and Icons of Men’s Style. What do you
think fashion historians in the future will write about the menswear of the first 12 years of the 21st century?
Roll small items such as underwear and socks tightly, using them to hold everything
else in place and cushion your more delicate, wrinkle—prone items. Use a travel bag
for protection — it can also be used for stashing dirty laundry as you go.
Josh Sims: Probably – from the UK perspective at least – that it was a time when men discovered the history in clothing and for many that it was
what got them most excited. Menswear is becoming less and less about trends – which men aren't all that interested in anyway – and more and
more about the individual item.
C: What societal influences or lifestyle shifts are making an indelible impact on the way men dress in 2012, in your opinion?
JS: For many men the break down of sartorial codes in the workplace is one factor – they're having to decide what to wear for themselves. And
pressure from partners (in line with women's greater empowerment), the media, and the workplace again – to take interest in one's appearance is
expected.
C: There seems to be a new appreciation in forward thinking dressers for traditional menswear pieces, sartorial traditions, and old world
manufacturing techniques. Why do you think that’s happening now? What’s fueling it? How do you see it evolving?
JS: Designer clothing of the ‘80s onwards introduced men to the idea of fashion – as opposed to clothing – but 30 years on they've reached a point
of self confidence that sees them understanding fashion but really wearing what they like – clothing. On the whole men find a uniform they like
and stick to it with minor variations on the theme. It's the detail they love, not the big statement.
On the whole men find a uniform they like and stick to it with minor
variations on the theme. It's the detail they love, not the big statement
C: Your next book is about The Vintage Showroom in London. What was the coolest thing you saw (is there something there that you'd love to
own?) in your visits to that showroom?
JS: There were too many to mention I collect vintage workwear so anything in that vein was appealing. Doug and Roy, owners of the business,
don't just have a knowledge of historic pieces but a real love of the ways in which they have aged – the patina on leather or the fade of an old cotton
drill for example. If anything went missing, it wasn't me. Honestly guys!
I do not believe in an
afterlife, although I am
bringing a change
of underwear.
”
— Woody Allen
49
Above Tree Line, Capsule’s show-withina-show for performance outdoor clothing
and accessories, will be back this season
in New York, Berlin, and Las Vegas.
The section features some of the most
innovative authentic outdoor brands
in the market, as well as camping gear,
accessories, apothecary and miscellaneous
items that are closing the gap between
form and function. Above Tree Line brands
create products with a purpose, while
maintaining an aesthetic that appeals to the
informed and selective consumer.
C: How important is vintage these days in the contemporary menswear scene?
JS: To most men I think vintage is a real passion or of very little interest – you either appreciate the history, and the idea that a garment might be
an original of its kind, or you just see old stuff. Vintage has been cheapened by the sale of lots of polyester rubbish from the ‘70s onwards. For me
vintage is pre ‘60s or older. Of course, if you're 22 the ‘70s feel like a long time ago. Shame the clothes were crap.
C: You wrote a book last year, Icons of Men’s Style, which chronicled the quintessential menswear items that together form menswear’s canon of
benchmark pieces. What makes a classic piece, in your opinion? How can today's new crop of menswear designers create future classics?
JS: Classics are simply those that defined the genre – the first of their kind, when that kind went on to become ubiquitous element of the men's
wardrobe. I can’t imagine too many gaps in that wardrobe that designers today might fill. There's always room to finesse a classic further. And
maybe a certain bit of outerwear might be super functional, super light, and super smart and become a new classic. But it's time and the market
that gets to decide.
Illustration by Ben Lamb
Roll small items such as underwear and socks tightly,
using them
to hold everything else in place and
STOCKING, STOWING & JET—SETTING
cushion your more delicate, wrinkle–prone items. Use
a travel bag for
protection
— it can also be used for
TRAVEL
& PACKING
stashing dirty laundry as you go.
“
ABOVE
TREE LINE
"Capsule is the ultimate menswear sandbox" — Lawrence Schlossman, howtotalktogirlsatparties
SURFER DUDE
As a kid, Jonathan Paskowitz lived an itinerant family life in a trailer with his parents and 7
siblings that centered around surf. Later his family launched the first surf camp in Hawaii.
As an adult he went pro, and produced a documentary filmed by Doug Pray called Surfwise,
which told the story of his eccentric family. Now at the helm of the legendary surf label
Lightning Bolt, Paskowitz talks about the evolution of surf style.
C: What 5 items do you think every man must have in his wardrobe?
JS: Dark indigo jeans, khakis, white button down shirts, heavy brogues, and a pair of converse high tops (also in white).
C: What’s your favorite menswear shop?
JS: Aside from the Vintage Showroom, Present in East London is great. Eddie Prendergast and his team can read the men's market like a book.
The Bureau in Belfast is also excellent.
Want to recreate the Capsule culinary
experience at home? Then make sure to pin this
paper up on the fridge! Molly Quirk, owner of
Sips and Bites in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, and
official chef of Capsule NY, offers the recipe
for her scrumptious cookies. “We like to make
jumbo cookies to up the crunchy vs. chewy
factor- but they are just as delicious in a more
traditional size,” she says. Sips & Bites Peanut
Butter Butterscotch Cookies Recipe makes 6
jumbo cookies
C: How would you describe your personal style?
INDIGO
Since ancient times, indigo been a precious
commodity. The blue dye derived from the
Indigofera tinctoria plant has been used to color
textiles, specifically cotton, which takes the indigo
color exceptionally well. Because plant leaves
contain only a small amount of the dye, indigo dye
and dyed fabrics were considered a rare commodity.
When Levi Strauss’ new blue jeans drove demand
for indigo up dramatically during the industrial
revolution, chemists developed synthetic methods
of producing the dye. But lately, textile dyers
and craftsmen are turning to traditional ways of
making and dyeing fabrics. On a practical level, the
color measures between about 420 and 450 nm in
wavelength, placing it between blue and violet on the
electromagnetic spectrum. Although traditionally
considered one of seven colors of the rainbow,
interestingly, modern color scientists do not usually
recognize indigo as a separate division.
With roots that span modern workwear to ancient
royalty and a longstanding tradition in Japan for
casual clothing, Indigo will once again capture our
fancy and become a must have for SS13.
Look for Indigo at Garbstore, JS Homestead, Merz
b. Schwanen and many others.
JS: Aside from jeans, khakis, white button-down shirts…? Someone once called it 'smart mail-man'. Which means I wear a lot of workwear – with
a tie.
Ingredients:
14 Tablespoons Unsalted Butter
1 ¼ Cup Dark Brown Sugar
1 XL Organic Egg
2 Tablespoons Non-Fat Dry Milk
Powder
1 Tablespoon Vanilla Extract
1 Cup Flour
¼ Teaspoon Baking Soda
½ Teaspoon Salt
1 Cup Peanut Butter Chips
C: Do you have any favorite brands?
JS: Bill’s Khakis, Red Wing, Brooks Brothers, Margaret Howell, Buzz Rickson, Alden, Trickers, John Smedley… Too, too many…
Josh Sims is a freelance style writer, contributing to the likes of The Financial Times, The Independent, The Independent on Sunday, Mail on
Sunday, Channel 4, the BBC, Esquire, GQ, Wallpaper and i-D. He is also author of Icons of Men’s Style (Laurence King), Cult Streetwear
(Laurence King) Rock/Fashion (Omnibus), A Dictionary of Fashion Designers (Collins), Mary, Queen of Shops (BBC Books) and contributor to
several fashion books from Taschen. (c)
WILD
ABOUT
WILDCR AFTING!
Every year, the folks at Juniper Ridge pack up the van, hit the road and
follow the bloom as it moves throughout the West. From the Mohave
desert in early spring to the high peaks of the Cascade mountains in
August they’ll go anywhere in search of the perfect sage, laurel, cedar,
pinon, fir, and juniper to create those delicious scents taken straight
from nature.
juniperridge.com
Instructions:
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In
a standing mixer, or in a bowl
with a wooden spoon, cream together butter and sugar until
it turns light and fluffy. Add
the egg, dry milk, vanilla, salt
and baking soda. Slowly add the
flour on very low speed. Take
the bowl off the mixer and add
the peanut butter chips and incorporate by hand with a spoon
or spatula.
“My family brought a look to the beach that oddly was a mismatch of things other surfers and friends gave us. Later we saw so many surfers playing down clean
crisp looks for a more “Surf Bum” chic that really was and still is a kind of a way to say ‘I really surf,–look how worn these trunks are.’ Then we all got matching
trunks and surf brands became popular trying to look like weathered, hard core surf enthusiasts.”
“Today there are many more surfers influencing the whole world and many more individuals surfing in far off places, there are so many different kinds of surfing
now. Bodysurfing, performance surfing, long boarding, stand up paddle surfing, kite surfing, body-board surfing, wind surfing and all these people are surfing
and so they are SURFERS. And the romance and adventure spirit goes with them. If you look at surfing from the band the Beach Boys to the current popularity
of the sport it’s no wonder more people want to be associated with such a creative and liberating life style.”
Using a ¼ cup measure-portion
out the dough and place onto 2
parchment lined cookie sheets.
These cookies spread a lot so
make sure you only put 3 on
each tray. Bake for 15 minutes
turning trays once during
cooking.
sipsandbitesnyc.com
BPMW
80 8TH AVE/No 202
NEW YORK, NY 10011
TIP SHEET
Just a sampling of what the Capsule
community is bringing for S/S 13.
A DECADE OF OI POLLOI
(cont.)
SS: Just the fact that we thought there wasn't a one stop store that catered to all of our rather eclectic tastes. Nowhere was selling rare
collectable sports goods and outdoor clothing. It was hard enough for us to source – that was part of the fun. At the time something as simple
as a classic dry unwashed pair of jeans at a reasonable price were not available in Manchester, or anywhere else in the UK at the time – can you
believe that? We thought it was a good idea to open a shop. Or if you’re talking about one moment, I suppose it could be when we were at a
mutual friend’s birthday do (at the Katmandu if you’re interested, very nice Nepalese if you’re ever in Manchester). Me and Nige ended up sat
next to each other, drinks were flowing, curry was being consumed and the conversation took a weird twist. It turned to tie-dying a Lacoste
polo. That was the idea, a tie-dyed Lacoste polo shirt. Genius. This was Oi Polloi's Eureka moment. We decided then and there we were going
to open a shop, we already had a store in mind and three months later we were in business. I told you there wasn't a plan, sometimes the planets
line up and shit happens you can't explain.
C: Your website says that your mission is to provide customers with the antidote for stale and uninspired menswear. You’re essentially the
world headquarters for authentic, and heritage brands. How do you select the brands you carry?
SS: World headquarters, I like that, can we use it? Do you really want to know? It's out of our obsession. When things are everywhere, we like
to go in a different direction. It might not always be the most commercial decision but usually people come round to our way of thinking. We
like to think we know a little about authentic brands and products, ones that are relevant for now, something to do with 'zeitgeist'.
C: How much credit do you take for the current global consumer demand for these types of brands?
SS: A little bit, considering we were this tiny little shop on a back street in Manchester. We definitely had an effect, that's pretty amazing,
when you think about it. That's made my head spin. It’s definitely weird how stuff happens, but it’s all part of the plan…
C: How do you think menswear will evolve in the coming year?
Will heritage continue?
SS: It depends on what you mean by heritage? Our heritage is what
we grew up with…
C: You’ve proven that even a small store in a remote area of the
world can have an enormous impact on menswear. Was e-commerce
always a part of your business model? What percentage of your sales
is done online?
SS: It wasn't in the plan. Neither myself or Nigel were that interested
in computers. We thought they were a bit boring. Obviously, this
was before we discovered e-bay. That made me want to able to use a
computer (I even went on a course, to teach me how to turn one on).
There were untapped sources of unbelievable vintage footwear, the
likes of which we'd never seen. We didn't even need to go on recon
missions to Europe. Not now we had the world at our fingertips.
The thing I noticed about e-Bay is that it became the great leveler –
prices on there became global. They set the market prices for collectables and any other rare item. The thing that's interesting is that the sellers
don't set the price, the customer does. This means the prices are the same as a retailer can sell them for. Once this happened our e-Bay days
were scuppered. We couldn't get a good enough margin. Back to the plan, let's build a web site and see if we can sell some stuff on it. Now it’s a
massive part of our turnover. Obviously all part of the plan…
C: We love the content on your site – it’s helpful to get educated on the brands, and we get a glimpse into your world and sense of humor. We’re
also fans of your magalog – Pica~Post which artfully mixes art and commerce. Who creates all your content?
SS: We try to educate anyone that stands still long enough or listens, if this was a subject when I was at school, I’d have a degree or doctorate
in it by now. We're like a kung-fu master teaching our students (!). Giving them a lightning quick crack round the head, and then telling
them, “There is a fine line between knowing the path and walking the path.” We create all the content in-house, we've got a very talented team
working on it. With Pica~Post we'll collaborate with freelance designers, illustrators, photographers, writers – all the art direction and editing
is done in-house though. Sense of humour… what sense of humour? We take it all very seriously.
C: What types of trends or key items will you be looking for for SS13?
SS: I can't really say at the moment. We’ve got a few good ideas up our sleeves, a couple of brands of our own we're looking into getting
produced. We could do with some help if I’m honest, if there's anyone reading this that's interested, maybe they could get in touch. We’d like to
talk to people in the industry about our ideas if anyone would like to back us?
C: Which brands are you most excited about seeing during the SS13 market season?
SS: The usual suspects…Engineered Garments, Nanamica, Woolrich Woolen Mills, Homespun, APC, Fjallraven, Post 'O'alls, blah blah blah…
C: Do you have any fun summer plans?
SS: I’m off to a yoga retreat, getting all bendy and flexible and eating healthy stuff. Just hope it's not full of vegans. I don't like vegetables. (c)
Classic surf brand Lightning Bolt is bringing back the OG bolt
necklace and the brand has some notable retail collabos in the
works with Project No. 8 and Barneys Japan as well as Best Made.
Other brands embracing surf culture this season include Cuisse de
Grenouille, Reyn Spooner, Mitchumm Industries, and Quality
Peoples. The idea of the liberated nomadic surfer has inspired
the team at Quality Peoples and they’re introducing a capsule
of travel-ready, detail-focused clothing: pants, a chambray shirt,
surf walk short, elastic surf short, a sweatshirt, a hat and it all fits
in a backpack…Mark McNairy is going extreme with some bold
print mixes, bright colors and tons of polka dots. All made in the
USA…Shades of Grey by Micah Cohen will feature bold prints,
including ikat, tonal animal prints, and florals in a bright palette
of coral, turquoise, cobalt blue, and grass green. Topman Design
fusesBasquiat with early skate and surf culture. Look for highenergy hand-drawnprints with technical laser-cut nylons in surfer
colors…Japanese brand Journal Standard will be collaborating
with Gitman Bros this season. The main collection will feature linen
shirts, pants, hooded parkas in a rainbow of colors…French knitwear
company Monsieur Lacenaire is doing a special collaboration with
Nanoblock – Japanese lego…British outerwear from Lavenham is
slimming down for summer featuring bonded fabrics, with reduced
wadding weight to ensure jackets arecompact and lightweight for
summer…Isaora’s thoughtful tech sportswear collection takes it
inspiration from the spectrum of light…Cro’jack has collaborations
with Journal Standard, Beams, and Silas; the collection will be a
synergy between utilitarian outerwear in both waterproof and shower
proof cottons and casual washed cotton/linens…With a collection
entitled ‘Tailored for Men of Sea’ Twothirds continues its homage to
the true blue lifestyle…Twins for Peace is a Parisian shoe company
that donates medical supplies, school tuition, books and shoes to
children living in impoverished countries…Libertine-Libertine will
debut a new underwear range and a capsule with Brooklyn We Go
Hard…Sunday Somewhere’s collection features seven new styles of
eyewear, as well as new color-ups of past faves…Pointer’s footwear
pays homage to the British holiday heyday of the early 1970s,
featuring super-saturated Ektachrome colors and a nod to the sports
shoes of the era…Faded colors and sepia tones lend Sunny Sports an
Endless Summer vibe…Spring 2013 started for Billy Reid “with the
thought of foreign exchange students at an Ole Miss cocktail social”…
Garbstore will introduce its 6 a day Indigo Farm production project
made in a small Hong Kong factory by three workers – limited to six
items a day…Wolverine’s heritage and archival patterns continue to
be the inspiration for the men’s and women’s collections…Royalties
makes amazing socks in a variety of colors and styles including cotton
cables & jacquards…Mexican footwear label Unmarked are using
Vibram soles and adding 4 new styles in colors based on traditional
Mexican sarapes…NUNC- Nordic Union of Novel Camouflage- will
be using a color palette that will range from dark mochas, to petrol
blue to lemon yellow and a spicy red…Armor Lux continues to
promote its loyalty to Breton style, with a new take on the classic
Breton Fisherman jacket made out of Microtex…Mexican footwear
makers MISC are focusing on fabrication – they’re working with
a legendary textile factory in Mexico to produce some great footloomed, hand-dyed, hand-woven fabrics…The Carhartt Work In
Progress Heritage Line re-interprets the brand´s workwear history…
Arcteryx Veilance will present technical outerwear in which
material combinations mingle in a palette inspired by the late evening
sky reflected in urban structures and video stills from a Doug Aiken
installation…Hentschman have developed their own prints for the
first time inspired by midcentury California culture…Newcomer
Merz b. Schwanen has been making tubular knit underwear since
1911. In addition to a collabo with Nigel Cabourn, a special selection
of shirts are indigo hand-dyed for SS13…Inspired by photography,
art and Nordic nature Prim I Am features denim as a key garment
with various treatments, washes and prints…Takeuchi and Tange
of TK Garment Supply have collected reclaimed objects such as
delicate silks of WWI French parachutes, vintage leather riding
reins, Italian army tents, and reinvented these materials into trench
coats and totes…Offering hand-screened tees, Sangue’s designer
Angelo Milano is using his screenprinting operation to finance his pet
project- the Fame Festival (famefestival.it) to which he invites artists
from all over to his little town in southern Italy. It's just him and his
dog running it and his mom helps a lot cooking for all the artists
invited…there’s plenty more to see at Capsule…