KINETIX Plenum Installation Instructions

KINETIX Plenum Installation Instructions
by Chrismcagle
Updated: 3/11/04
I received my Kinetix Plenum and High Flow Cats and was really excited to install them, but
there were no installation instructions included in the box. Perhaps it's one of those "how hard
could it be" type of mods, but there are a couple threads on my350z.com that go over the
basics, plus I was lucky enough to be present (and help a little) when all_bark installed the
prototype plenum. The install went kind of smoothly, but there were a few snags that I ran into
and hopefully these step-by-step install instructions will help those who decide to buy the
Plenum.
Tools required:
Flathead screwdriver (to aid in removing hoses)
Torque wrench (inch lbs.)
Phillips Head screwdriver
10mm socket with extension
12mm socket or 14mm socket (depends on size bolts for the strut bar mount)
5mm Allen wrench
4.5mm Allen wrench (included with Plenum)
Loktite (included with Plenum)
Hammer
Needle nose pliers
Optional Tools
Teflon Tape* (see below)
Permatex Ultra-Copper Gasket Maker
* IMPORTANT!! *
Take the supplied coolant pass-through housing and blow into one of the brass connectors. Air
should flow freely through the opposite end. If not (which is what happened with mine) do the
following:
Unscrew the 2 connectors from the pass-through housing. The problem on mine was that the
glue that was used to secure the connectors into the plastic block had sealed the hole which
would not allow any air (or coolant) through. Also, the connectors were screwed into the
housing too far which also cut off the flow of air (and coolant).
Wrap the threads of both connectors a few times with Teflon tape then attach a zip tie to act as
a guide when re-installing the connectors so that you don't screw them in too far. Make sure
that both connectors are tightened down so there is about 1/16 of an inch of thread showing
and they are in their correct position (the L shaped connector should be facing the throttle body
when it's installed). Once both connectors are secure, perform the "blow test" again and see if
the air flows through this time. It should.
** Make sure to check ALL connectors for blockages of any kind. If there are any, follow the
same instructions as above only screw them in flush after drilling out / removing any
blockages.
INSTALL
-Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
-Using a hammer, tap in or screw in (depending on your plenum) the 3 supplied fittings for the
engine cover and hose mount.
-Install coolant pass-through bracket to bottom of the new Plenum near the throttle body with
4.5mm Allen wrench and supplied bolts. Make sure to use a little Loktite on the screws.
-Remove the 6 bolts and 2 nuts holding the strut bar with either the 12mm or the 14mm socket
depending on which size are on your Z. For some reason there are some Z's with different size
bolts. Then remove the strut bar. The arrows indicate where the nuts are located on the back
side of the mounting bracket. There are also wire management zip ties attached to the ends of
the mounting brackets that can be removed with needle nose pliers, or simply cut off if you'd
like.
-Disconnect Intake pipe from Throttle body and air box (or CAI) by loosening the 2 clamps at
each end. You will need a flat head screwdriver to remove the clamp by the air box and a
phillips head to remove the clamp on the throttle body. Then remove the screw holding the
pipe to the bottom portion of the plenum with a 10mm socket. Then disconnect the hose
attached to the bottom with needle nose pliers, and remove the pipe.
-Remove the 2 hoses on the left side of the plenum and the 1 from the coolant pass-through
on the right side under the throttle body with the pliers. There is a 4th hose that is easier to
remove once the stock plenum is taken off.
-Remove the 6 bolts in the center and the 11 bolts and 2 nuts surrounding the plenum with a
10mm socket. Also remove any grounding kit wires (if installed) as well as the Hose mount on
the left rear (circled red). The arrows point to 3 screws on the back portion of the plenum that
are not visible in the picture.
-Lift plenum up enough to remove the 4th hose on the back of the plenum under the throttle
body with pliers. (Sorry, forgot to take a picture of the 4th hose, but you'll figure it out)
-Remove Throttle body from OEM Plenum and install on Kinetix Plenum using 5mm Allen
wrench and a little Loktite on each bolt.
-Install the 2 plenum supports in the center of the bottom plenum making sure the shorter
support is in the front. Then install 4 screws in remaining holes in top of bottom plenum with
4.5mm Allen wrench. Put a little Loktite on each of the 4 screws and 2 supports and can crank
them down pretty hard (you definitely don't want any of these to come loose!)
- Place new plenum in position and insert screw into the hole shown here. The hole in my
plenum was off by about 1/16" so I had to take a drill and ream the hole out in order to fit the
screw in. Once this screw can easily start to thread into the hole remove it (don't tighten it just
yet).
-Set the new plenum on the bottom portion of the plenum slightly off to the side and attach the
hose to the connector that points straight down in the coolant pass-through block attached to
the bottom of the throttle body. It's much easier to install this one before seating the plenum
than afterwards.
*(Optional Step) Once the hose is attached, you may apply a thin bead of the Permatex UltraCopper around the edge of the bottom portion of the intake plenum before placing the new
Kinetix plenum into position on top of it. Make sure not to use too much Permatex!
-When placing the plenum in position, make sure that the rubber grommet around the oil filler
cap is not stuck between the top and bottom portions of the plenum.
-Insert the 10 screws and 2 nuts (with supplied washers and a little Loktite on each one)
around the new plenum and hand tighten. Another thing I did that helped "seat" the plenum
was to press on the center with my left hand and make a fist with my right hand and tap around
the perimeter.
-Install the 2 screws in the middle of the plenum.
-Working in a star pattern tighten the 10 screws and 2 nuts with the 10mm socket. The torque
specifications given by lsdunique are as follows:
•
•
Version 1 Plenums are to have the bolts torqued down to 36 inch/lbs or 3 foot/lbs (*Do
not over tighten or you risk cracking the plenum!)
Version 2 Plenums are to have the bolts torqued down to 80 inch/lbs or 7 foot/lbs
Also I advise waiting a good 30 minutes before starting the car after installation so the
Loktite can set.
-Once all 12 bolts are secure, securely tighten the 2 screws on the top of the plenum.
-Remount the grounding kit wires (if one is installed) to the bottom part of the plenum with a
10mm socket.
-Reinstall the 2 hoses on the side of the plenum with the pliers.
-Reinstall the hose on the right side of the plenum just below the throttle body.
-Reattach the hose to the bottom of the intake tube and then slide the tube back into position
over the throttle body and air box (or CAI). Make sure to securely tighten the clamps on each
end. Then tighten the screw that holds the tube to the bottom portion of the plenum.
INSTALL COMPLETE... ALMOST
Verify that all screws and hoses are tight and that the gasket around the oil filler cap is not
stuck in the plenum (you did you remember to look earlier, right??)
Reconnect the negative battery terminal and reset the ECU (optional).
IMPORTANT
Start up the engine and let the car run for about 10 to 15 minutes. If it seems to be running ok
(idle is not terrible, or the car does not stall) then take it out for a spin around the block. The
point is to get the car up to operating temperature. Once you get back turn the car off and give
it some time to cool off a bit. Let it sit for about 30 minutes or so, then start it back up and
make sure that it idles fine. That’s all there is to it. You’re done!
Here's a picture of the finished install without strut bar and engine cover.
And of course, one with the strut bar and engine cover.
*One thing to note is that the engine cover is a bit tough to get on with the new plenum. It's
easiest to install by sliding the front-right side under the strut bar then wiggling it a bit until it
goes around the oil filler cap. Then just push the front-left side under and line up the 2 screws
in the front and then push the cover down so the screws come up through the holes. Included
with the plenum are 2 white spacers and 2 longer black screws to use in the 2 holes in the rear
of the engine cover (I just found out from lsdunique). The left rear screw will fit without any
problem; however the right rear screw will not fit under the strut bar. You could install both rear
screws while the strut bar was still off the car, however if ever in the future you wanted to
remove the engine cover, you would have to also take off the strut bar to get to the screw on
the right side. I personally have decided to just leave the rear 2 mounts unfastened and stick to
the 2 in the front. They hold the cover on very securely in my opinion, but it's up to you how
you choose to mount the cover.
My Review of the KINETIX Plenum
My first impression of the plenum after starting the car was "WOW!!" There is definitely a
sound difference. It's more growly or something. It's really hard to describe. You just have to
hear it for yourself.
Driving it, the first thing that I really noticed was that engine braking has all but disappeared! I
am not sure if it's more pronounced because of the UR pulleys, but I didn't slow down nearly
as much (actually hardly at all) when I took my foot off the gas as I did with the stock plenum.
There is also a great sound when you shift gears. I remember seeing a post on my350z.com
where someone else said the same thing. It's nice!!
As for the butt dyno... well, I do feel like there is an increases in horsepower. I have not really
gotten on it hard yet, but from the little driving I have done so far, there is a definite difference
in the car's responsiveness. It seems that the low end has increased a bit, but once you get
above 3500 rpm's ... LOOK OUT! It pulls like the space shuttle!
Ok, maybe I am exaggerating just a bit, but there is honestly a lot better pull.
The sound is what's really amazing especially when you’re at about 5500 rpm's and above. It
screams like a banshee! From what I have heard, the ECU takes about a week to calibrate
itself to changes so I am VERY anxious to see how it feels after it's all calibrated.
I gave it some thought and I would have to say that in my opinion the sound of the car with the
new plenum sounds like a European or Italian car with the nice tuned exhaust. I know... I
know. You don't believe me, but you just have to hear it in person to see what I mean.
I hope these instructions were helpful.
Feel free to e-mail me with any questions or comments: chrismcagle@yahoo.com
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