White Papers Energy2 - Bio

Code Number:
INCI Nomenclature~
20450
Saccharomyces/Capsicumannum
Technical Data Sheet
FermentFiltrate
INCI Status:
roved
15%
Suggested Use ,levels:
Suggested Applications: Collagensynthesis, Increased
Tomorrow'svision
on
Today!
AntHrritant
Red Pepper or Capsicum annum has been used for a variety of medicinal
applications ranging from digestive to analgesic. Cultivated for more than
7,000 years the fruit of this plant has wide spread importance both
nutritionally and economically.
Capsicum is generally recognized for its content of capsaicin, the active
responsible for the hot burning sensation when chilies are ingested. While
Capsaicin has been used as a topical analgesic to treat pain and
inflammation associated with arthritis there is often associated redness.
Capsaicin's role in relation to the reduction of pain is complex. On one
hand Capsaicin has the ability to bind to the Vallinoid Receptor (VR-1),
which acts as a polymodal integrator for noxious stimulil. An ability which is shared by various
lipoxygenase products2 as well as some more common phytochemicals such as eugenol,
zingerone, vanillinand cannabanoids. VR-1 a member of the transient receptor potential
(TRP) super family acts by modulating cellular calcium levels.
Capsaicin has been shown to induce apoptosis in many types of cancer cells. It is now thought
that this is due to the localized increase in reactive oxygen species3. This is only part of the
story with regard to activity of Capsicum because it is clear that there are other components
present in the fruit of the plant that can mobilize immune function4. Perhaps more importantly
Capsaicin inhibits angiogenesiss. It is somewhat interesting that a product known to produce
redness inhibits angiogenesis. The erythema found with topical application is no doubt a
result of the increased ROS levels and not directly a result of increased circulation.
But as with most plants, the activity of a single purified phytochemical does not always
explainthe activityof a less refinedextract. Capsicumhas widelybeen show to contain a high
levelof antioxidantsrangingfrom ascorbicacid and glutathione to more robust enzymes such
as Superoxide Dismutase.
It has also been shown that by fermenting Capsicuma product is formed that willincrease
glutathione levels while at the same time stimulating immune function6.This provided an
interesting starting point for a new product. What if we were able to provide some of the
benefits of a Capsicumextract without any of the associated irritation?
Active
~ncepts
info@activeconceptsllc.com
. phone
+1-732-867-5040
. fax
+1-732-867-5041
Information contained in this technical literature is believed to be acaJrate and is offered in good faith forthe bene1it of the customer. Thecomp;ny, hemever, cannot assume any liabilityorns!< involved inthe use ofits chemical
products since the conditions of use are beyond ourconitiDl. Statements conceming the possible use ofour products are not intended as recommendations to use our products in theinfiingement of any patent. We make
\fagaW\'tyo1~y
kind, expresseo
or implieo, otherthen that the matenal oonfonns totheapplicabe
standard apedfication
Freeoorn from patentinfiingement
is not implieo. Alli~on~Yl'T-~-Vd~~
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3%Capsicum
3%AC
Ann.un Extract DenmPeptide Amum Extract DerlTBPeptide
McroC
McroC
In an effort to achieve that goal
we fermented the maceratedfruit
of Capsicum annum with
Saccharomyces cerevisiae. This
approachwas intendedto combine
the anti-irritant benefitsof a yeast
extract with the known properties
of Capsicum. What we found
however was a product that
increased circulation without
produc-ing associated visual
erythema. Asthe epidermiscontains
no blood vessels it is nourished by
diffusion from the dermis. In order
to have healthy radiant skin it is
critical to have optimal circulation.
Microvascular perfusion was measured using the PeriScan System, which is a Laser Doppler
Perfusion Imaging system intended for non-invasive imaging of superficial tissure blood
perfusion.The reported results are relative to biologicalcontrol. A 5-subject panel consisting
of 5 Caucasian females between the ages of 32 and 43 was assembled and provided with two
MicroC and another containing 3% of
products: one containing 1% of AC DermaPeptide
AC DermaPeptide MicroC. To ensure accuracy for all tests, panelists abstained from using
lotions, creams or any other cosmetic moisturizers on the test site for a period of three days
prior to the tests' initiation. The test area was located on the inner forearm region between
the wrist and elbow. A gentian violet surgical skin marker and standard template delineated
MicroC products were
two 2 cm by 2 cm (4cm2) test sites. 1% and 3% AC DermaPeptide
applied at a concentration of 2/0 mgjcm2 for three consecutive days.
MicroC
The results clearly indicate that AC DermaPeptide
significantly increases dermal circulation for improved epidermal
dispersion.
The same 5 subject panel was used to determine whether or not the
useof AC DermaPeptide MicroCinducesepithelial erythema using
a Minolta CR-200 Chromameter interfaced with a DP-100 Color
ComputerSystem.This system detects subtle changes in color that
are imperceptible to the human eye. Although no human erythema
is detected with the human eye with the use of either 1% or 3%
Active
~ncepts
info@activeconceptsllc.com
. phone
+1-732-867-5040
. fax
+1-732-867-5041
Information contained in ths technlcaJliterature is believed to be 8COJreteand is offereo in gooofaithforthe benefit ofthecustomer. The oomf>3l1Y,however, cannot assume any liablity orriskinvolved inthe use ofils chemical
products ~nce the oonditions of use are beyond our oontrol. Statements oonoeming the possible useofourproducts are not intended as reoommendations to use our products in theinfringement of any patent. We make
~g~o1~y
kjnd, expresseo orimplied, otherthan thatthe material oonforms totheap~icabe
standard speci1ication.Freedom from patent infringement is not implieo. All infW~~~~Jl'f-~(j§lro~'il7
AC DermaPeptide MicroC, a slight color
Chroma meter Readings
change is detectable when using the Minolta
CR-200.
During the fermentation
process a
biotransformation takes place, which creates .!!
a capsaicinoid that has increased solubility,
additional cell metabolism increasing factors
and anti-irritant properties. Unlike most
Mean Treated
Mean lkItreated
capsicumextracts,ACDermaPeptide MicroC
contains a functional active capsaicinoidthat
is water soluble. Cellmetabolismfactors are important for maintainingskin clarity and create
a"healthy glow".While collagensynthesisis important for the improvementof skin'sresiliency,
elasticity and texture. Additionally an increase in collagen synthesis is equated with an
improvement in the appearance of firm and supple skin.
~:
AC DermaPeptide MicroC is useful in a variety of cosmeticand cosmeceuticalproducts,
which rangefrom anti-aging creamsand skin clarifiersto soothingwarming lotions and gels.
References:
CaterinaMJ,SchumacherMA,TominagaM, RosenTA, LevineJD,and Julius D (1997) The capsaicinreceptor: a heat-activatedion channelin
the pain pathway.Nature(Land) 389: 816-824
Hwang SW, Cho H, Kwak J, Lee SY, Kang CJ, Jung J, Cho S, Min KH, Sur YG, Kim D, et al. (2000) Direct activation of capsaicin receptors by
products of lipoxygenases: endogenous capsaicin-like substances. Proc Natl Acad Sci USA 97: 6155-6160
1
2
LeeYS, KangYS,LeeJS, NicolovaS, KimJA(2004) Involvement of NADPHoxidase-mediatedgeneration of reactiveoxygenspeciesin the
apototic cell death by capsaicin in HepG2
human hepatoma cells. Free Radic Res. Apr;38(4):405-12.
3
PaikSY,RaKS,ChangIS, ParkYC, ParkHS,Baik HS,YunJW,Choi
JW (2003) Purification and characterization of complement-activating
Mol BioI. Mar 31;36(2):230-6.
4
acid polysaccharides from the fruits of Capsicum annuum. J Biochem
Jeong-KiMin,Kyu-YeonHan, Eok-CheonKim,Young-MyeongKim, Sae-WonLee,Ok-HeeKim,
Kyu-Won Kim, Yong Song Gho, and Young-Guen Kwon (2004) Capsaicin Inhibits in Vitro and in Vivo Angiogenesis CANCER RESEARCH64,
644-651, January 15
5 Choi YM, Suh HJ (2004)
Pharmacological effects of fermented red pepper.
Phytother Res. Nov; 18(11):884-8.
Active
~ncepts
info@activeconceptsllc.com
. phone
+1-732-867-5040
. fax
+1-732-867-5041
Information OJf1tajned in this technical literature is bEjieved to be aca.Jrate and is offered in good faith forthe benefit of the customer. ThecomP'l1Y, hCM'ever,camotassume
any liabilityornsk involved in the use ofi1s dhemcal
products ,;ncethe oonditions of use are beyond ouroontrol. Statements oonoeming the possible usa of ourproducts are not intended as recommendations to usa our products in theinfringement of any patent. We make
apwarraQty of'1Dy kjnd, expressed or implied, otherthan that the material oonfarms to the api>icable standaro sped1ication. Freedornfrom patent infringement is not implied. AllinformatiOl) iSfQ[investioo!iV\1.lI.ujWsas
onll\.
paqe j ot j
VerslOnj j 11-OI:!-u:>/I-Orm#/
HYDRACTIN®
Moisture & Energy
HYDRACTIN® optimises the water balance of the epidermis. The
natural energy building block ATP stimulates the cell metabolism of the skin. It is essential for maintaining the osmotic equilibrium in the epidermis and this actively regulates its water balance. Algin, a water-retentive gel derived from sea algae, forms
a hydrofilm on the skin and reduces the transepidermal water
loss. The enzyme papain from the tropical fruit papaya removes
old skin cells and promotes skin regeneration.
HYDRACTIN® thus ensures a fresher appearance and boosts
moisture and natural energy.
SCIENTIFICALLY
PROVEN EFFECTS
• Immediate improvement in skin
moisture of up to + 38 % after 1 hour
(in-vivo study)
• Long-term improvement in skin
moisture of up to + 14 % after 28 days
(in-vivo study)
ACTIVE INGREDIENTS
ATP
Algin
Papaya Extract
The vitalising cell factor ATP stimulates
Algin, a natural water store derived from
Papaya extract with the enzyme papain
the metabolism of the skin. ATP is essen-
sea algae, forms a film of moisture on the
gives the skin a more youthful appea-
tial for maintaining the osmotic equilib-
surface of the skin. Through its water-
rance. Through its protein splitting effect,
rium of the epidermis and thus actively
retaining and film-forming properties it
the enzyme papain helps to remove dead
intervenes in the regulation of the water
protects the skin against evaporation.
flakes of skin. Metabolic processes and
balance of the epidermis.
the growth of new skin cells are activated.
SIGNIFICANCE OF WATER IN THE EPIDERMIS
10 %
1. Flexibility and elasticity
External
Strateum corneum
Hydration of keratin fibres in corneocytes
Water content of epidermis in %
2. Formation of the NMW
Enzymatic splitting of
filaggrin / profilaggrin
Internal
Strateum corneum
40 %
S tratum
Granulosum
3. Formation of lamellar lipid matrix
- Double lipid layers consisting of
(a) Free fatty acids
(b) ceramides
(c) cholesterol
65 %
S tratum
S pinosum
4. Regeneration
70 %
75 %
S tratum
Basale
Desquamation of corneocytes through enzymatic
splitting of corneodesmosomes
SKIN MOISTURE (in-vivo short-term study)
SKIN MOISTURE (in-vivo long-term study)
Test formulations with HYDRACTIN® versus placebo
Test formulations with HYDRACTIN® versus placebo
Method: Hydration of the stratum corneum
Method: Hydration of the stratum corneum
Implementation: Single treatment with 3 % or 6 % HYDRACTIN ,
Implementation: 28 days 1 x daily treatment with 3 % or 6 % HY-
16 test subjects, placebo: 0 % HYDRACTIN®, age 48; measuring
DRACTIN®, 16 test subjects, placebo: 0 % HYDRACTIN®, age 48;
device: Corneometer®
measuring device: Corneometer®
Result: Effective skin moisturisation, increase of up to 38 % com-
Result: Long-term effect as moisturiser confirmed. Increase in
pared with placebo; lasting effect: still 20 % more skin moisture
skin moisture of up to 14 % after 28 days.
®
after 5 hours.
Skin moisture against placebo (%)
Skin Moisture against Placebo (%)
40
3 % HYDRACTIN®
6 % HYDRACTIN®
Placebo
35
30
12
10
25
8
20
6
15
4
10
2
5
0
0
1
2
Hours
3
4
5
+ 14 %
14
Placebo
+ 10 %
3 % HYDRACTIN®
6 % HYDRACTIN®
Application and Processing Information
Moisturising skin care for face and body. Suitable for emulsions
(W/O and O/W) and gels.
Recommended Use Level: 2 – 8 %
INCI: EU: Glycerin, Aqua, Disodium Adenosine Triphosphate,
Carica Papaya Fruit Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Algin, Sodium
Hydroxide USA: Glycerin, Water, Disodium Adenosine Triphosphate, Carica Papaya (Papaya) Fruit Extract, Phenoxyethanol,
Algin, Sodium Hydroxide Japan: Glycerin, Onsen-Sui, Disodium
Adenosine Triphosphate, Carica Papaya (Papaya) Fruit Extract,
Phenoxyethanol, Algin, Sodium Hydroxide
nt
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RAHN France
91 rue de Faubourg Saint-Honoré
FR-75008 Paris
RAHN GmbH
Tel. +41 44 315 42 00
Hahnstrasse 70
Fax +41 44 315 42 45
DE-60528 Frankfurt am Main
Tel. 0800 1 816 015
RAHN USA Corp.
Fax 0800 1 816 016
1005 North Commons Drive
Aurora, Illinois 60504, USA
R AHN AG
RAHN (UK) Ltd.
Tel. +1 630 851 42 20
Dörflistrasse 120
75 Park Road
Fax +1 630 851 48 63
CH-8050 Zürich
GB-Peterborough PE1 2TN
Tel. +41 44 315 42 00
Tel. 0800 0 323 743
cosmetics@rahn-group.com
Fax +41 44 315 42 45
Fax 0800 0 323 744
www.rahn-group.com
DISCLAIMER
Utilisation of this document or parts thereof as well as product names for commercial or industrial applications is subject to explicit written approval by RAHN AG. This
information is based on our own experience to date and we believe it to be reliable. It is intended only as a guide to use at your discretion and risk. We cannot guarantee favourable results and assume no liability in connection with its use, or the use of the methods or products described. None of this information is to be taken as a
license to operate under, or a recommendation to infringe patents.
Version: 02/2014
Active
ingredients
RIBOXYL™
Natural Cellular
Energizer
Pure ribose
Fuels ATP reserves for
a fast cell energy recovery
Global anti-aging action
Riboxyl™ is natural D-ribose, a sugar that occurs in all living
cells. Generating new ATP, it restores energy to the skin for a
global anti-aging action.
RIBOXYL™, THE SUGAR OF LIFE
Riboxyl™ is pure ribose, a natural pentose obtained by biotechnology from corn
seeds. It is a key molecule present in all living cells necessary for the synthesis of ATP
(Adenosine Triphosphate) used in every cell metabolic reaction as a source of energy.
Over time, cells undergo various stresses (e.g. pollution, physical effort, tobacco
smoke and aging) which make the ATP reserves fall, thus altering cell functioning,
leading to an acceleration of aging process: appearance of wrinkles, loss of elasticity,
dull complexion.
Aged
cell
Rejuvenated
cell
FAST ENERGY REFILL ACTION
Riboxyl™ is a fundamental building block of the ATP molecule. To function efficiently,
cells must keep their ATP content at a maximum level.
Riboxyl™
aCollagen
aHyaluronic acid
aElastin
aFibronectin
Each cell has a limited capacity to store ATP. In a healthy organism at normal conditions,
the ATP level is maintained constant, due to a permanent turnover (glycolysis, Krebs
cycle, …). However, during stress conditions, the cell energetic need is higher than
the recycling capacity and ATP level dramatically falls. When ATP level is too low, the
body rebuilds depleted energy supplies with the synthesis of new ATP from ribose,
which here is provided by Riboxyl™. By supplementing skin with Riboxyl™, cell energy
recovery is accelerated by inducing faster ATP synthesis and providing optimum
condition for skin cell to fight signs of aging.
H2N
HO
OH
O
OH
ATP rate
HO
O
O
P O
P O
P
O
O
O
N
O
N
O
OH
Riboxyl™
RIBOXYL™
600
O
N
N
ATP
ATP
OH OH
500
+19%
nM
400
During hypoxia (oxygen depletion), which is an intense stress leading to cell death,
cells consume more ATP to survive. The presence of Riboxyl™ limits the decrease in
ATP rate by producing de novo ATP rapidly to compensate for the loss.
300
200
0
Before hypoxia
After hypoxia
Generating new ATP, Riboxyl™ restores ATP reserves and replenish cells of energy.
Untreated
Riboxyl™
IMPROVEMENT OF CELL FUNCTIONING
Fibroblasts are able to stimulate the synthesis of structuring macromolecules of dermis
such as collagen I (+97%), collagen XVII (+70%), fibronectin (+55%), elastin (+37%) and
hyaluronic acid (+55%).
40
Variation
(% compared to untreated)
By recovering their optimal energy potential, cell metabolic activity is enhanced and
attested by a higher oxygen consumption.
Oxygen consumption
+37%*
+31%*
30
20
10
0
Mitochondrial
respiration
This increase in skin component production limits the degradation of tissue, prevents
the appearance of wrinkles and enhances elasticy to recover a youthful look.
Cytosolic
respiration
*p<0.05
Stimulation of elastin synthesis
Elastin synthesis
(% compared to untreated)
60
ANTI-WRINKLE EFFECT AND
ELASTICITY IMPROVEMENT
Test protocol
50
+37%
40
30
20
+12%
10
0
0.01%
0.075%
Riboxyl™
- 21 females (46-65 years old)
- Twice daily application of a cream containing 0.5% Riboxyl™ on face during 28 days
- Elasticity measurements with Dermal Torque Meter at D0 and D28
- Crow’s feet wrinkle measurements by profilometry at D0, D14 and D28
Wrinkles parameters
Variation
(% compared to D0)
0
Total area
Total length
Number
-5
-6.1%
-10
-8.9%*
Up to -47%
-9.1%*
-12%*
-15
-20
-18.6%*
Up to -78%
D14
-17.6%*
Up to -70%
*p<0.05
D28
­Skin elasticity
Up to 66%
2.5
Uv = Skin elasticity
+12.3%*
D0
D14
D28
2
1
0
D28
D0
*p<0.05
After only 14 days of treatment, Riboxyl™ visibly reduces the appearance of wrinkles and
smoothes skin surface. This anti-aging effect is even better after 28 days of treatment.
Self assessment
Supple skin
Skin elasticity is improved to provide more suppleness and optimize skin quality for a
better aspect.
95%
Smoother skin
90%
Revitalized skin
86%
Toned skin
Volunteers agree that Riboxyl™ helps the skin to look firmer, smoother, more supple,
less dull and revitalized.
Firmer skin
Less dull complexion
More luminous skin
More unified complexion
81%
71%
71%
67%
67%
Positive opinion (%)
By reloading skin with new energy, Riboxyl™ clinically
improves the appearance of wrinkles and skin aspect.
Product
description
Features and benefits
INCI NAME
Ribose
ECOCERT / COSMOS
STATUS
Registered
APPEARANCE
White to slight yellow powder
FEATURES
BENEFITS
Pure ribose
Stable, odorless and white powder, highly water
soluble, easy-to-formulate
Original mechanism of action
Generation of new ATP to rebuild energetic supplies
High efficacy
Low dosage
Boosts synthesis of dermal
components
Visible results after only 14 days:
-W
rinkles reduction
-S
kin elasticity improvement
-C
omplexion enhancement
FORMULATION
Add below 40°C
Protecting Day Cream 9.202.01 C84
OPTIMUM PH
4-8
DOSAGE
0.5-1%
APPLICATIONS
- Anti-aging care
- Anti-wrinkle care
- Energizing care
- Revitalizing care
- Firming care
- Radiant care
- Men’s care
CHINA-COMPLIANT
INGREDIENTS
INCI NAMES
A Deionized Water
Water
Dermofeel™ PA-3*
Sodium Phytate (and) Water (and) Alcohol
0.10
FDC Red 4
Solution 0.1%
Water (and) CI 14700
0.30
Dermosoft™ LP*
Caprylyl Glycol (and) Glyceryl Caprylate (and)
Glycerin (and) Phenylpropanol (and) Water
1.00
B Glycerin
%
63.60
Glycerin
5.00
Satiaxane CX 911
Xanthan Gum
0.30
Amigel
Sclerotium Gum
0.30
C Amisol™ Soft
Behenyl Alcohol (and) Glyceryl Stearate (and)
Lecithin (and) Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols
4.00
D Dub Inin
Isononyl Isononanoate
7.00
Crodamol W
Stearyl Heptanoate (and) Stearyl Caprylate
5.00
Dermofeel™ GSC*
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
1.00
DC 200.5 Cs
Dimethicone
4.00
Vitapherole E-1000
Tocopherol (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower)
Seed Oil
0.20
E Riboxyl™
Ribose
1.00
Exo-P™
Water (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Alteromonas
Ferment
1.00
Deionized Water
Water
2.00
F Suprem’™ Nature Thé
Vert
Water (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower)
Seed Oil (and) Lecithin (and) Polyglyceryl-3
Diisostearate (and) Glycerin (and) Glyceryl
Stearate (and) Camelia Sinensis Leaf Extract
2.00
G SJ Touch 1
Polymethyl Methacrylate
2.00
H Eclat 4008
Fragrance
0.20
pH: 5.0 - 5.5 – Viscosity (Rheo ELV 8, spindle 4, 6 rpm, 3 mn): 20 000 - 30 000 mPa.s
This brochure is not intended for consumers and neither this brochure nor any extract thereof shall be used in order to commercialize products to consumers. No
drawing, photograph or other extract derived from this brochure shall be used by any person without our prior written approval. As well, no claim with respect to
the ingredient referred to in this brochure shall be made by any person without our prior written approval, even though the claim is set forth in this brochure. The
person using the ingredient referred to in this brochure in the formulation of finished products is solely responsible for ensuring that the use made of the ingredient,
the finished products marketed to consumers, their packaging, labelling and advertising materials and the claims made with respect to the finished products and
the ingredient comply with all applicable laws and regulations. We hereby disclaim any warranty of suitability of the ingredient referred to in this brochure for any
purpose. Any prospective user of the ingredient shall himself determine the suitability of the ingredient for his intended use and, as the case may be, obtain the required
regulatory approvals for the commercialization of his finished products.
LUCAS MEYER COSMETICS S.A.S.
LUCAS MEYER COSMETICS CANADA INC.
ZA les Belles Fontaines
99 route de Versailles
91160 Champlan - France
T: +33 (0)1 69 10 69 69 - F: +33 (0)1 69 10 69 70
Place de la Cité, Tour de la Cité
2600 boul. Laurier, #900
Québec (Québec) G1V 4W2 Canada
T: +1 418 653-6888 - F: +1 418 653-6005
www.lucasmeyercosmetics.com
info@lucasmeyercosmetics.com
Litho Canada | 2014-07 2K
* Distributed in France by Lucas Meyer Cosmetics and Unipex Solutions France.