Make-up rouge - septetneuf.com
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Make-up rouge - septetneuf.com
Make-up rouge 5-Rouge ANG 27-03.indd 1 31/03/08 14:55:14 “Her hair was wavy too, but black. She dressed it carefully with a little comb dipped in highly fragrant green ointment that made it shine. It was parted in the middle and held back by invisible slides. She would carefully apply her bold red lipstick, and her pretty rounded nails were always varnished. It’s early afternoon. The light outside must be bright, the blinds are drawn. I am sitting on the edge of the bathtub, I don’t utter a word, nor do I move. I am literally hanging on the lips of my neighbour which she is painting carefully before “going down” town, lips pushed forward, slightly pursed, that I can see perfectly in the mirror.” Maryline Desbiolles, Le Printemps de Guerlain. 3 5-Rouge ANG 27-03.indd 2-3 31/03/08 14:55:15 GUERLAIN 180 YEARS Exquisite rouge “Putting the accent on beauté...” Charnotet’s 1950s advertisement for Guerlain lipstick is a gem of concision. It epitomizes the mission statement that Guerlain has made its own for the last one hundred and eighty years: enhance the beauty of women. Emphasise what the beholder sees first: the lips and the eyes. Bring out their beauty with a lick of red and a stroke of black. In the late 19 th century, fashion dictated that the skin must appear natural and neither scented nor made-up (at least, not to the naked eye...). Mouchoir de Monsieur and Voilette de Madame quite accurately embodied this spirit of discretion. Although the worlds of cosmetics and fragrances have always been closely intertwined in Guerlain’s history, make-up became popular only after fragrances. Women had finally gained the right to embellish their appearance and would not be relinquishing it anytime soon. Guerlain marched with women on this campaign, often moving ahead of them to pave the way. First, it invented the sculpted lipstick shape. Then it developed a mechanism allowing a woman to raise and lower her lipstick from its casing using only one hand, leaving her other hand free to hold a mirror. It integrated the concept of luxury: fabulous textures presented in a jewellery box case. From technique to glamour, from glamour to a sensuous beauty ritual, Guerlain explored endless possibilities– colour, comfort and wearability, not to mention durability, desire and the object of desire–long before lipstick became the star of its make-up range. Guerlain tapped a rich vein of creativity 4 5-Rouge ANG 27-03.indd 4-5 Make-up rouge Advertisement by Charnotet for the lipstick (1959). when it launched KissKiss, star of stars, a veritable work of sculpture that women adore and a lipstick that their lips crave, whose very name is a double caress. As for the colour black, it has marked one of the most eloquent pages in the history of Guerlain, the one devoted to the famous Pyrommée, which recently re-emerged as a sumptuous reinterpretation by Terracotta. From the art of precision to a stroke of genius, there is only a step. After one hundred and eighty years, the Guerlain style of beauty is as stunning as ever. One day, the philosopher Aristotle was asked the following question: “ Why do we devote so much time to beauty?” “That,” he replied, “is the question of a blind man?” 5 31/03/08 14:55:16 GUERLAIN 180 YEARS For the love of red Beauty is in the eye of the beholder As Baudelaire once said about make-up, “red and black represent a life which is supernatural and excessive. Black frames the eyes, intensifying their depth, singularity and decisiveness as windows of the soul. Red gives the cheekbones a touch of fire, clarifies the gaze and gives the face of a beautiful woman the mysterious passion of a seductress.”1 When Baudelaire wrote these lines, the modernday seductress had not yet materialised. The poet claimed to have dropped a flowerpot on a glass‑seller in the street below, enraged that he did not sell coloured glass that would make life look more beautiful, like windows of paradise. It was as if the poet were attacking the 19 th century, morbidly pale and dull. Women in the 19 th century were only permitted to use colour–which went against the idea of “trueness”–to simulate emotion and create the illusion of a natural complexion. This could be obtained with products like the Liquid Bloom of Rose that Pierre-François‑Pascal Guerlain imported from England. In 1828, ladies coloured their lips and cheeks using the same product, 1 Free translation of The Painter of Modern Life, by Charles Baudelaire, 1863. 6 5-Rouge ANG 27-03.indd 6-7 Make-up rouge not yet familiar with the sensuous ritual that would be the fruit of Guerlain's imagination in years to come. Each woman had to proceed like a chemist, carefully handling her vials of liquid rouge–which were tiny, as if to escape disapproving eyes–then pouring the contents into a saucer of porcelain and lightly dabbing colour onto cheekbones and lips. With an ever-so discrete result... the amount of rouge that could be seen on a woman's face was inversely proportional to her virtue. A few years later, women were not so shy about being seen with solid rouges, such as Roselip, in their delicate Porcelaine de Paris jars. Colours that lasted for hours It did not take long for Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain to understand what women wanted. Since the mid-19 th century was determined to ban colour, women were even more determined to wear the little they could. He created Extrait de Roses pour les lèvres to offer them “lip colour with excellent staying power that lasts through meals”. Women were relieved... and so were men–up until then, unfaithful husbands had been regularly betrayed by the red marks left by their paramours. Peace was restored in French households until 1958, when the production of Extrait de Roses pour les lèvres was discontinued. Fortunately, Rouge G succeeded two years later. Exceptionally long-wearing, it soon became a best-selling product worldwide. 7 31/03/08 14:55:17 GUERLAIN 180 YEARS A lipstick to enhance beauty Contrary to what its name may suggest, Ne m’oubliez pas was far from forgettable. The first wax lipstick ever invented came in its own gold-plated tube. Although the rotating mechanism that we now use to raise the stick had not yet been invented, this remarkable tube was equipped with a revolutionary push‑up device. The lipstick also boasted another Guerlain innovation, the ultimate in sophistication: women could actually refill the case. This pioneering, truly unforgettable product was manufactured from 1870 until 1943, when the factory in Bécon-les-Bruyères was bombed. Temptation has no bounds 19 th Ne m’oubliez pas, (Don’t forget me), is the first lipstick (1870). Ten years before the turn of the century, Aimé Guerlain caused a stir in the world of beauty with the creation of a new product with an ambiguous name: Jicky. Its devotees adored this ground-breaking new formula containing both natural and synthetic ingredients. It would take two more decades and a bloody First World War for the idea of relying on artificial components to cross over from the invisible (fragrance) to the visible (make-up). Ever since, what the philosopher Rousseau called a “dangerous supplement”, has laid claim to beauty‑enhancing powers. In 1908, the French author Colette praised “the prowess of make-up manufacturers”, 8 5-Rouge ANG 27-03.indd 8-9 Make-up rouge asking: “Where are the reds of yesteryear, as bright as red currants? Where are those unsightly whites and Virgin Mary blues? No painter could resist the palette of colours available today.”1 The Roaring Twenties marked the real debut of modern make-up. Industrial innovations made as part of the war effort (e.g. Berthelot’s work on the synthesis of organic compounds) paved the way. While World War I claimed the lives of so many men, it also gave way to a new woman. Active and liberated, rejecting the strict pre-war dress code, she lit up her cigarette and let the rules of 19 th-century morality smoulder in the ashes. The new woman cast off her veil, revealed her face and openly used make-up. “In the old days, no proper woman wore makeup by day, only a touch in the evening. In the glare of electric light, the flapper abandoned social conventions, proclaiming that a woman could–in fact, she should–wear make-up in the daytime, outlining her eyes with black charcoal, painting her lips dark red”.2 1 Colette. Free translation of The Tendrils of the Vine, 1908. 2 L’Express. Il était une fois la beauté. Dominique Simonnet. Interview with Catherine Ormen. 3 July 2007free translation. Ne m’oubliez pas, lipstick advertisement, designed by Léonard for the US (1928). 9 31/03/08 14:55:20 GUERLAIN 180 YEARS Make-up rouge Roaring luxury Realising the importance that lipstick would take on in future years, Guerlain updated its design concepts and formulas. Rose Lip Bengale was made slimmer, and placed in a case that perfectly matched the style of the 1920s. Women of the time were even more enamoured of Rouge d’Enfer, whose superior performance and look of consummate luxury, with its grace note of amusing eccentricity, ultimately became the signature of Guerlain make‑up. The art of the superfluous developed into something more essential, and success depended on more practical fields such as chemistry, mechanics and industrial processes. From a technical point of view, the Rouge d’Enfer lipstick deserves a special mention: it could be returned to its original position inside the case thanks to a special tassel, patented in 1924. The grapevine was buzzing from Paris to Madison Avenue. Women sang the praises of the two little chains used to close the top, and purred with pleasure at the heavenly feel of this formula, which boasted a more delightful texture and a richer colour than its predecessors. Rouge d’Enfer, lipstick advertisement, designed by Léonard for the US (1928). Opposite: American advertisement for the Rose Lip Bengale (1928). 10 5-Rouge ANG 27-03.indd 10-11 11 31/03/08 14:55:27 GUERLAIN 180 YEARS Make-up rouge An exquisite ritual American advertisement for the Nouveau Rouge designed by Elise Darcy (1928). 12 5-Rouge ANG 27-03.indd 12-13 Make-up is a game that women play... yet take very seriously. This inspired the creation of Jeu de Dames which came in a luxurious tube with a chequerboard design, and was wildly successful in the United States. From this point on, what counted were styles, cycles and detail. The silver screen became the new mirror of fashion, faces of stars setting the tone. Regarded as liberating in the 1920s, make‑up reigned supreme and imposed strict rules in the 1930s. In a 1932 interview for a brand-new women’s beauty magazine, Colette said: “Beauty is a form of politeness and courtesy. One cannot conceive of it otherwise.” In other words, no sophisticated woman could leave the house without make-up. For Guerlain, this was a period of intense creativity epitomized by Rouge Automatique. Long and sleek, it looked like a miniature version of the new skyscrapers rising all over America and came with a finely crafted mechanism that gave women a secret weapon: single-handed lipstick application. And Guerlain continued to supply women with heavy artillery of high calibre, such as Nouveau Rouge with refills in five shades–light, medium, dark, peach and tropical. No man could resist the Guerlain woman, once she had him in her sights. Transformed into a femme 13 31/03/08 14:55:32 GUERLAIN 180 YEARS Make-up rouge fatale, she followed the example of Greta Garbo, Marlene Dietrich and Michèle Morgan in France, whose smouldering gaze was spellbinding. Then came World War II, with its many deprivations and shortages, interrupting the mass production of make-up. Advertisement by Darcy for the Rouge Automatique (1936). 14 5-Rouge ANG 27-03.indd 14-15 Top left: Advertisement for the Rouge G lipstick by Elise Darcy (1956). Top right: Institutional advertisement for lipsticks designed by Elise Darcy (1935). Below left: Advertisement for the Rouge Automatique designed by Elise Darcy (1936). Below right: Extract of 1934 prices for lipsticks. 15 31/03/08 14:55:41 GUERLAIN 180 YEARS Make-up rouge Advertisement for the Rouge Automatique designed by Elise Darcy (1936). Opposite: German advertisement for the Rouge G (1959). 16 5-Rouge ANG 27-03.indd 16-17 17 31/03/08 14:55:45 GUERLAIN 180 YEARS Make-up rouge Perfect wife and mother After the war, women were expected to return to the security of home-making and wearing high heels. While the Liberation from occupation brought them the right to vote in France, women’s lib was still decades away. Women ruled the roost, performing household chores assisted by an army of time- and labour-saving electrical appliances. Always turned out perfectly, the modern woman donned her new full skirt, knowing just how to make it sway fetchingly as she got into her automobile to go shopping. To obey the demands of duty and “keeping up with the Joneses”, the model wife and mother was expected to apply her make-up with painstaking care. In 1954, Guerlain offered a very substantial ally that was way ahead of its time: a three‑in‑one product offering elegance, colour and convenience. Creations with a passion for signature In the 60s, make-up emulated the changes in fashion. The “collection” concept prevailed over that of the “look”. Products in the same collection were decorated in the same style, often geared to attract young people. Like the fragrances, make-up by Guerlain sought to bring out new colour combinations and created collections of products that harmonized perfectly. Make-up cases, bottles and boxes were endowed with a luxurious sophistication that became the hallmark of Guerlain creations for decades to come. Starting with L’Or de Guerlain (1991), followed by Divinora, Météorites and Terracotta, this make‑up tradition was perpetuated throughout the 2000s. 18 5-Rouge ANG 27-03.indd 18-19 Advertisement by Borton for the Bal de Mai make-up collection (1965). 19 31/03/08 14:55:57 GUERLAIN 180 YEARS Make-up rouge Advertisement by Mik for the Amarante make-up collection (1962). KissKiss advertisement. Me, myself and I KissKiss: two are better than one The 1970s, with its interest in the common good gave way to the 80s, which focused on the individual and personal desire for success. Mirroring this trend, another “star product” stepped into the limelight. A worthy heir to Rouge Automatique, Rouge Bicolore created a sensation in 1986 with its colour duos, like tiny scoops of delicious ice cream: one matt shade and one iridescent, to be used individually or in combination. At a time when people did not choose between different pleasures–since they felt they could “have it all”–this marvellous little invention was the first versatile lipstick for use according to one’s mood. Brilliant! Early in the 2000s, Guerlain undertook a new colour odyssey with the arrival of its new Creative Director, Olivier Échaudemaison in February 2000. His masterpiece KissKiss, the most glamorous of all lipsticks, has been a huge worldwide success since 2005. The KissKiss packaging, like three magnificently superimposed “cubes”, completely breaks with convention. What Franck Gerhy does for architecture, Hervé Van der Straeten does for design. He pushes the limits to see that an original model, crafted by hand, can be reproduced on an industrial scale. 20 21 5-Rouge ANG 27-03.indd 20-21 31/03/08 14:56:01 GUERLAIN 180 YEARS KissKiss. The result is like a piece of fine jewellery, a faceted totem pole and a work of contemporary art all at once, three influences rendered in gold to produce a rather improbable luxury object. Luxury also characterizes the KissKiss texture, which contains Precious Reflect pigments to reproduce the reflections of semi-precious stones. Adding the CreamSoft complex and specific emollient oils to the formula, Guerlain was relentless in its quest to leave the lips supple, moisturised and soft. This inspired Olivier Échaudemaison, Creative Director, to invent forty precious shades to give the lips a creamy satin finish. 22 5-Rouge ANG 27-03.indd 22-23 31/03/08 14:56:05 Make-up rouge KissKiss: three is better than one Never could a single formula fully express the potential of this fabulous lipstick. Since its launch in 2005, three variations on the theme have seen the light–and managed to capture it to provide colour that is even more intense. With its transparency and volume, KissKiss Maxi Shine is an ultra-glossy version to apply after LipLift, which leaves the lips looking smooth and full. With KissKiss Gloss lips become delightfully plump and brilliant like pearly, sparkling or diamond-pure jewels. Women seeking the satiny coverage of a KissKiss lipstick as well as the shine of a gloss will delight in KissKiss Laque, like a gleaming coat of vinyl. It owes its unique texture to an oil mixture (in which pigments are suspended) that forms a water‑resistant film on the lips and a unique combination of polymers that contribute high reflective power, like a magnifying glass or a mirror, for fabulous brilliancy and an ultra‑sophisticated vinyl effect. A formula that takes sensuality to extremes. Opposite: KissKiss Laque. Right: KissKiss Maxi Shine. 25 5-Rouge ANG 27-03.indd 24-25 31/03/08 14:56:11 GUERLAIN 180 YEARS Lipstick and lip gloss: the perfect match For its one-hundred and eightieth anniversary, Guerlain invites us to take a new look at the classics. No longer does a woman have to choose between a stick and a gloss, she can have both: the timeless gesture of applying lipstick combined with the brilliance of a gloss! For lips that look irresistibly plump, smooth and moisturised, KissKiss Stick Gloss makes an adorable KissKiss gift for this golden anniversary. KissKiss Stick Gloss creates the impression of fuller lips thanks to Maxilip, an oligopeptide complex that stimulates the synthesis of collagen. The absorbent power of mineral oils helps hydrate the lips, while its luscious irresistible texture and exquisite violetred berry fragrance impart a great sense of well‑being. With the brilliance of its texture complementing the gleam of the white‑gold case, this beauty-enhancing revelation has come to join the most glamorous lipstick range of our generation. Left: KissKiss Stick Gloss. Opposite: Advertisement for Spring Make-Up 2008. 26 5-Rouge ANG 27-03.indd 26-27 31/03/08 14:56:25 GUERLAIN 180 YEARS Make-up rouge Eyes in black “…the subtle fascination of eyes like clear dark pools, gleaming through the golden arbours of Turkish pavilions on the Bosphorus...”1 Black is associated with both eyes and the history of Guerlain make-up. In 1862, actress Lola Montez, who wrote L’Art de la beauté, gave her recipe for preparing kohl from ground-up ants while piously noting that, generally speaking, the use of make-up was indecent. That same year, Guerlain had a much more attractive solution to offer at its Rue de la Paix boutique: the famous ready-to-use Pyrommée. With it, one could create “those unforgettable doe eyes, once beheld by the traveller 1 Copy used for the label of Pyrommée. Michèle Atlas and Alain Monniot. Guerlain, Les Flacons à parfums depuis 1828, published by Editions Milan p. 133. Advertisement for Pyrommée. 28 5-Rouge ANG 27-03.indd 28-29 whose lucky star had happened to lead him down Rose Street in Smyrna.”1 Similarly, the widely travelled Jean-Paul Guerlain would recall his discovery of an intoxicating scent at an Indian bazaar. There is something mirage‑like about a fragrance by Guerlain... and Guerlain eyes... a memorable yet shifting aura of shadow, smoke and mystery that spans space, time and the imagination. Olivier Échaudemaison helped carry on this quest. Working closely with designer Hervé Van der Straeten, he created luxurious tool boxes of fabulous eye make-up that expressed his unique approach to beauty: pragmatic yet comprehensive. Skilful shadows and strokes of genius The earliest filmmakers also created a waking dream that remained silent. Fascinated, the audience watched the actors on the screen communicate with eyes that were riveting, expressive and sultry, eyes in black and white. The audience read them for tales of happiness or tragedy. Then the colour black left these dark theatres behind and emerged into the light of day. In 1922, Guerlain gave its stamp of approval with the kohl pencil Lynx, which gives the eyes a distinguished feline look. Like red, black was used and accepted. Initially applied to 1 Ibid. 29 31/03/08 14:56:27 GUERLAIN 180 YEARS the inner corner of the eye, then to the upper and lower lash lines, and finally to darken the lashes. It was squeezed from a tube that became all the rage, a must-have accessory for pinup girls followed by top fashion models in Swinging London, who then started using Golden Cilpen, a “terrific” formula with a refillable tube. Soon, black eyelashes were set against a coloured background known as eyeshadow–not always very discreet, despite the name–for a sort of glam rock look. Guerlain gave its own poetic interpretation of this epic period, preferring to coat the eyelids with a protective powder containing microcapsules of oil or a fluid shadow “the colour of azure iced with rose and tinged with gold”. This brings The Golden Cilpen mascara (1968). to mind a 2008 limited edition: Tajine, a sumptuous summery eyeshadow like a precious molten metal presented in a mysterious inkpot. It inspires thoughts of other objects such as a slim bottle of eyeliner, nearly small enough to be a miniature and surmounted by a sleek gold brush whose shape fits the hand perfectly. Another cult object, an amulet with a jewellery stopper contains a magnificent powder of black gold, a magnificent kohl that forms a perfect couple with Terracotta. The number 2 is magic, with two applicator brushes that double the pleasure of creating lush, thick lashes. 30 5-Rouge ANG 27-03.indd 30-31 Make-up rouge Terracotta new products 2008. The Mozais collection, like kaleidoscopes, a set of triangles of colour that form a mosaic, waiting to be discovered under the mirror in its round, double-bottomed case. As always at Guerlain, beauty comes first, application is pure delight and true elegance speaks volumes. For our eyes only. 31 31/03/08 14:56:29 GUERLAIN 180 YEARS Make-up rouge Let there be light Now it is time for the final touch to make-up, a step that is tricky and intimidating. This subtle powder revisited by Olivier Échaudemaison expresses emotion yet must always blend in while revealing its precious tones. An artistic approach to texture and depth that is shared with writers, painters, and sculptors... Available with one, two or four shades, Ombre Eclat is an oxymoron from the make‑up world, a statement in light and shade that plays perfectly on velvety and sparkling contrasts. It encourages a perception of depth while keeping it at the surface. The eyelid takes on glossy, satin-smooth, matt or pearly radiance. Ombre Eclat is used to sculpt contours to attract attention to the eyes or surround them with a halo of scattered light. To tame this powder, with its reputation of being hard to manage, Guerlain added Nylon microparticles to the Ombre Eclat formula and slipped applicators into its box to help women to produce an expert result. In 2007, this charismatic eyeshadow inspired Olivier Échaudemaison to create an ultra-luxurious Ombre Eclat Duo & Liner palette. A woman would be reluctant indeed to close this magical box and hide those rectangles of glorious 32 5-Rouge ANG 27-03.indd 32-33 colour from view, if the case itself were not so exceptional. Like a jewellery box featuring white gold outside and black gold inside, it was designed by Hervé Van der Straeten and produced using an innovative process of reverse metallization. The effect is stunning–patrician lines and supreme elegance–yet unobtrusive: the intention is not to surpass the beauty of its owner, but to enhance it. 33 31/03/08 14:56:35 GUERLAIN 180 YEARS Make-up rouge Terracotta Loose Powder Kohl: the new Pyrommée Loose powder kohl is a natural choice for the Terracotta line. Kohl was first used in ancient Egypt for its prophylactic properties and because it protected the eyes from the rays of the sun refracted by desert sand. No culture can resist a substance that gives the eyes such depth and mystery, with those of the Maghreb leading the way and others following. A new interpretation of Pyrommée, the Terracotta Loose Powder Kohl contains concentrated pigments to ensure superior staying power. With its built-in applicator, even beginners can create professional results and produce a lush impression of Oriental beauty in a single stroke. For the summer of 2008, it has traded powder for metal for an even more femme fatale effect. available in highly graphic shades. This fluid texture, seeming to flow from the end of an artist’s brush, wears flawlessly. In 2008, Olivier Échaudemaison enhanced this line of Eyebrow Pencils with textures formulated with plant-based waxes and ingredients derived from fruit, striking a perfect balance between firmness and silkiness, so the pencils blend perfectly. The brows look very expressive and amazingly natural. Character traits Fortunately, Guerlain has never turned its back on its past. At a time when eyeliner dominates the catwalks, make‑up by Guerlain has preserved the colour black’s powers of attraction, not to mention a rich spectrum of expression. Each to her own. To shade lightly or smudge carefully for a smoky effect, the pliant texture of the Eye Pencil is a delight. For sharp definition, opt for Eyeliner, marvellous for its precision and 34 5-Rouge ANG 27-03.indd 34-35 31/03/08 14:56:40 GUERLAIN 180 YEARS Make-up rouge Mascaras that work wonders At Guerlain, it is as if even the smallest flutter of the lashes were supervised by an expert coach who monitors, supports and enhances even the smallest movement. The coach prepares, trims, separates, stretches, curves, curls, rolls, flexes, strengthens and builds without demanding the slightest effort. The mascara‑coach is assisted by high-tech brushes, new beauty mechanisms supercharged with high-performance formulas and sophisticated textures. It has become child’s play to separate, lengthen and curl. The eyes have it Guerlain gives lashes an interstellar dimension with Maxi Lash, which combines a 3D demonstration of the Lash Maximizer complex with the push-up effect of an almond-based biopolymer. 36 5-Rouge ANG 27-03.indd 36-37 37 31/03/08 14:56:45 GUERLAIN 180 YEARS Protecting a valuable asset While technology brings many benefits, it should not be forgotten that beauty is delicate and vulnerable. Guerlain has always been very attentive to this mystery-enhancing fringe that looks fabulous dressed in black. Safe inside its silver tube, Divinora Supercils is set to share its riches, ready to fortify, replenish, stimulate and repair, protecting the lashes like a divine bodyguard. Lashes have nothing more to fear from harsh external stresses, and are left looking shiny, full, supple and voluptuous. Twice as stunning When it comes to beautiful eyes, what do women want? Everything! They want length, volume and curl, not to mention high-precision definition. To obtain great results on all lashes–upper, lower, long or short–in 2008 Olivier Échaudemaison developed a new lethal weapon by the name of Le 2 de Guerlain. It takes the form of two very professional brushes in a luxurious gold case designed by Helle Damkjaer, containing an exceptional combination of polymers. Moulded with generous contours in a flexible material, the first brush lengthens, separates and curls to spectacular effect. The second has shorter bristles and is bevelled at a 7° angle, perfect for ultra-precise application to long or short lashes. The effect is spectacular and natural‑looking, for glorious eyes that spell double trouble. 38 5-Rouge ANG 27-03.indd 38-39 31/03/08 14:56:47 photographiC CrEdits Guerlain Archives Pages : 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 19, 20, 28, 29, 30 Michelangelo di Battista : page 27 Liz Collins 21, 32 Patrick Paufert : pages 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 31, 33, 34, 35, 36, 38, 39 Fabien Sarrazin : pages 20, 21 Sølve Sundsbø : page 37 5-Rouge ANG 27-03.indd 40 31/03/08 14:56:48