Kit Product # 145634 (US) / C-XTM

Transcription

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INTRODUCTION
Thank you for your purchase of the XTM Racing Nitro Rail Off-Road Buggy! The Nitro Rail is built with the characteristics of a full-size
sand rail. The Nitro Rail isn't restricted to sand use, however. The installed all-terrain tyres allow you to take the Nitro Rail on all types
of surfaces, from dirt to street, and places in between!
Stand up and take notice! The Nitro Rail Off-Road Buggy is unlike any 1/8th scale vehicle available today. In true sand-rail style, the Nitro
Rail Off-Road Buggy is a nitro burning, rooster tail kicking, exhilarating beast with looks that kill. The hard-core performance drivetrain,
with it's tunable triple differential race inspired design, gives you the power to put maximum traction to the dirt. Powered by the
big-block XTM .28 Racing engine, you'll have horsepower-on-demand to tear it up whether you're backyard bashing or catching big air
in the dunes or on the track. The heavy-duty plush suspension will handle it easily with it's multi-link arms, coil-over adjustable position
shocks and adjustable geometry.
This Operating Manual is designed to help you get your model up and running as quickly as possible. In addition to basic information
about your new model, this Operating Manual includes pro tips, a chassis tuning guide, detailed exploded view assembly drawings and
a complete replacement parts and option parts list. Be sure to keep this Operating Manual handy for future reference!
Before operating your model, please read and understand the warnings listed on the next page. Failure to do so could lead to injury
and/or property damage. This model is not intended for persons under 14 years of age, unless closely supervised by an adult.
n Nitro Rail Off-Road Buggy Features
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Factory-Assembled with Factory-Printed Body Shell
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Custom Aluminium Roll Cage Protects Inner Components
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Powerful .28 Rear Exhaust Nitro Engine with Pull-Starter
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4mm Aluminium Shock Towers
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High-Torque Tuned Pipe with Matching Exhaust Header
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Heavy-Duty Drive-Line with Chrome-Plated Front CVDs
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Dual Vented Disc Brakes
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Adjustable Bi-Level High-Downforce Wing
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Large Fuel Tank with Splash Guard and Overflow Tube
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Aluminium Side Frames Integrate with Chassis and Roll Cage
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Full Set of Sealed Ball Bearings for Drive-Line
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Adjustable Toe-in and Camber, Front and Rear
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High-Torque Metal-Geared Steering Servo
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Adjustable Differentials with the use of After-Market Silicone Oils
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Threaded Aluminium Shocks with 3.5mm Shock Shafts
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All-Terrain Tyres Mounted on Black Wheels with Metal Rings
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Bevel Differentials - Front, Rear and Centre
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Optional Parts Available for Increased Performance and Handling
n Nitro Rail Off-Road Buggy Specifications
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Weight (Without Fuel or Battery)................................................................................................................................... 3.74kg (8.25lbs)
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Length ........................................................................................................................................................................... 529mm (20.82")
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Width F/R .......................................................................................................................... F: 320mm / R: 315mm (F: 12.59" / R: 12.4")
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Height (Measured to Top of Roll Cage with Settled Suspension) ................................................................................... 180mm (7.08")
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Wheelbase (Adjustable) ........................................................................................................................345 ~ 350mm (13.58" ~ 13.77")
OPTIONAL SETUP OPTIONS - DIRT TRACK OR SAND
Out of the box, the Nitro Rail is a good starting platform for racing, and when setup with a smaller clutch bell and sand paddle tyres, is
a blast to drive in the sand. In addition to the options suggested in the Chassis Tuning Guide on pages 17 ~ 22, we recommend the
following basics as a starting point:
Differentials - For general dirt track racing, we recommend using the following weights of differential oils: 3K in the Front, 10K in the
Centre, and 2K in the Rear. For use in sand, we recommend using 30K in the Front, 70K in the Centre and 10K in the Rear.
Tyres - For dirt track racing, we recommend using the same type of tyre that is popular at your local track. For use in the sand, we
recommend using XTM Racing Sand Paddle Tyres (P/N 148716 or P/N 148722). For more information, see the Option Parts List on page 79.
Gearing - In the stock configuration, the Nitro Rail features a 14T clutch bell, which provides a good combination of top speed and
acceleration. If driving on a smaller track, or if driving in sand, we recommend using an XTM Racing 13T clutch bell (P/N 149525). This
will cut down slightly on the top speed, but acceleration will be better and will ensure adequate low-end torque. For more information,
see the Option Parts List on page 81.
When driving in sand, we strongly recommend using the optional prefilter sleeve (P/N 149412) installed over the air filter to improve
the air filter's performance. For more information, see the Option Parts List on page 81.
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CUSTOmER SERvICE INfORmATION
If you should have trouble with any of the steps listed in this Operating Manual, or if you find a missing or a damaged part
in your kit or require additional information, please contact your regional distributor at the address below:
In North America:
In Europe:
Global Services
18480 Bandilier Circle
Fountain Valley, CA 92708
Ripmax Ltd.
241 Green Street
Enfield, EN3 7SJ, U.K.
Phone: (714) 963-0329
Fax: (714) 964-6236
Email: service@globalhobby.net
Phone: (0) 20 8282 7500
Fax: (0) 20 8282 7501
Email: xtm@ripmax.com
XTM Racing guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship, at the date of purchase. This does
not cover any component parts damaged by use, misuse or modification. In no case shall XTM Racing's liability exceed the
original cost of the purchased kit.
In that XTM Racing has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed for
any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the final user-assembled
product, the user accepts all resulting liability. For detailed warranty information, refer to page 87.
PrIor to oPErAtINg your NEw modEl, PlEAsE thoroughly rEAd ANd uNdErstANd thE INformAtIoN coNtAINEd
IN thE thIs oPErAtINg mANuAl. doINg so wIll ENsurE your succEss ANd ProvIdE thE grEAtEst ENjoymENt
of thIs Product.
SAfETY WARNINGS AND ImPORTANT INfORmATION
n General Warnings
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Under no circumstances should you operate your model in crowds of people. Serious injury could result.
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Never operate your model on busy streets or if there are cars around.
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Do not use your model to chase pets or other animals.
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The electronics in your model are not waterproof. Therefore, do not drive through water, wet grass, mud or snow.
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Because your model is operated by radio control, it is important to make sure you always use fresh and/or fully charged batteries (if
using Ni-Cds or Ni-MHs) in the transmitter and/or receiver. Never allow the batteries to run low or you could lose control of the model.
If your model becomes stuck, do not continue to apply power or damage can occur. Release the throttle and retrieve your model by hand.
To prevent excessive r.p.m.s from damaging the engine and/or drivetrain components, we suggest reducing power while in the air
during jumps.
n Nitro Engine Warnings
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Never use any type of fuel in your engine other than glow fuel specifically designed for use in model car engines. Use of any other
type of fuel can cause severe damage to your engine and/or personal injury. NEVER USE GASOLINE/PETROL OR DIESEL FUEL!
Glow fuel engines emit exhaust vapors that are poisonous and can be dangerous to your health. It is important that you operate your
engine in a very well-ventilated area, preferably outdoors.
Before starting your engine, make sure that the throttle trim is set to the idle position. Starting your engine at any setting above idle
can cause the model to lurch out of your hands.
When the engine is running, there are certain parts that rotate at high speeds. Be careful not to touch the drive shafts, gears, clutch
bell, flywheel or any other moving parts. Otherwise, serious injury could result.
It is normal for the engine, exhaust header and tuned pipe to get very hot during operation. Never touch these parts while they are hot
or you could be burned.
Model engines produce vibration when they are running. It is important to periodically check the engine mounting screws and other
assemblies to ensure they are tight. Running your engine with the engine mounting screws loose can lead to severe engine and/or
chassis damage.
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Continued On Next Page
SAfETY WARNINGS AND ImPORTANT INfORmATION
n Glow Fuel Warnings
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Glow fuels like those used in your nitro engine are extremely poisonous. Follow all the precautions that are printed on the fuel
manufacturer's container.
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Keep glow fuel out of the reach of children.
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Glow fuel is extremely flammable. Keep away from high heat, sparks and flame.
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Store glow fuel in a cool, dry space, out of direct sunlight.
n Alkaline, Ni-Cd, Ni-MH, Li-Po and Li-Fe (A123) Battery Instructions for Disposal
These products must not be disposed of with other household waste. Instead, it is the user's responsibility to dispose of these
products by handing them over to a designated collection point for the recycling of waste electrical and electronic equipment. The
separate collection and recycling of these products at the time of disposal will help to conserve natural resources and ensure that
they are recycled in a manner that protects human health and the environment. For more information about where you can take
these products for recycling, please contact your local city or municipal office, your household waste disposal service, or where
you purchased the product.
KIT CONTENTS
After opening your Nitro Rail Off-Road Buggy, remove all of the parts from the box and double-check that you have all of the items
listed below. If you find a part is missing or damaged, please contact your regional distributor, using the Customer Service Information
on page 3.
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Preassembled Nitro Rail Chassis
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Body Clips (5)*
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1.5mm, 2.0mm, 2.5mm and 3.0mm Hex Wrenches
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Transmitter
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Decal Set
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5.0mm/5.5mm Combination Wrench
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Lexan Body Shell (Printed)*
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Receiver Antenna Support Tube
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4-Way Combination Nut Driver
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Nylon Wing with Retaining Clip*
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Air Filter Assembly
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Instructions for Nitro Rail
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Tyres and Wheels (Glued)*
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0º, 1º and 3º Suspension Plate Holders
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Instructions for Radio Control System
IMPORTANT: If you drive your Nitro Rail in sand, we strongly recommend using the optional prefilter sleeve (P/N 149412) installed
over the air filter to improve the air filter's performance. For more information, see the Option Parts List on page 81.
The brand and type of radio control system (transmitter and receiver) included with your Nitro Rail varies by region. Please make
sure to read through the separate radio control system Operating Manual included to learn about your radio control system's
features and proper use.
Kit contents are subject to change at any time without notice.
*May come installed on chassis and not loose in the box.
ITEmS REqUIRED TO OPERATE AND mAINTAIN
The products listed in this section must be purchased separately and are required to run your Nitro Rail Off-Road Buggy. We've also
listed the tools and other items we recommend you have on-hand to perform basic maintenance.
n Fuel
20% Nitro Car Fuel
Use for Break-In and for
Normal Use
Fuel can make a big difference to the way your engine performs. For the break-in period
you should use fuel specifically designed for R/C car engines that contains no more than
20% nitromethane and 10% ~ 14% oil content. Once the engine has been adequately
broken in (about 45 minutes of run-time) you can switch to an R/C car fuel containing up
to, but no more than, 30% nitromethane and 10% ~ 14% oil content.
We do not recommend using fuel designed for R/C aircraft engine use. R/C aircraft fuel does not contain the proper amount of
lubricants and will cause the engine to overheat, causing severe damage to the engine.
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ITEmS REqUIRED TO OPERATE AND mAINTAIN
n Fuel Bottle
Fuel Bottle
Use This to Fill the Fuel Tank
Because fuel is packaged in quarts, gallons or litres, you will need to use a smaller bottle
with an extension tube to fill the fuel tank. Fueling using this method is much easier, faster
and a lot less messy.
n 1/8th Scale 4-Way Wrench
1/8th Scale 4-Way
Wrench
Use This to Remove and
Reinstall the Engine’s
Glow Plug
A long reach glow plug wrench is necessary to remove and replace your engine's glow
plug. Most 1/8th scale 4-way wrenches also feature a 17mm hex wrench that can be used
to remove the wheel nuts from your Nitro Rail.
n Glow Starter
Glow Starter
Use This to Heat the
Engine’s Glow Plug
A glow starter is a battery-operated device that, when attached to the glow plug, heats
the glow plug so that the engine can be started. The glow starter is then removed once
the engine is running.
n Batteries for Transmitter and Receiver
'AA' Alkaline Batteries
and 5 Cell Ni-MH Battery
Use These Batteries to
Power the Transmitter and
Receiver, Respectively
The transmitter requires 'AA' Alkaline batteries to operate. The number of batteries required
will vary depending on the brand of transmitter you have (see the separate radio control
system Operating Manual included).
A 5 cell Ni-MH rechargeable receiver battery pack is required to power the receiver and
servos. Using a 5 cell battery pack makes the servos faster and more powerful, and using
a rechargeable battery pack is cheaper in the long term than using Alkaline batteries.
n Miscellaneous Tools and Other Items
In addition to the products listed previously, the following tools and other items are recommended to run and maintain your Nitro Rail
Off-Road Buggy.
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Spare Glow Plugs
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Small Flat Blade Screwdriver
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Charger for 5 Cell Ni-MH Receiver Battery Pack
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# 1 and # 2 Phillips Head Screwdrivers
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Engine After-Run Oil
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Nitro Car Cleaner Spray
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XTM Racing Air Filter Oil (P/N 149571)
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Metric Ruler
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Ball Bearing Oil
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Scissors or Modeling Knife
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Assorted Weights of Silicone Oil to Tune Shocks and Differentials (Optional)
Although the engine comes with a glow plug already installed, glow plugs wear out, especially during the break-in period, therefore,
it's a good idea to have a couple of spares on-hand. We recommend using a 'medium' or 'hot' or heat-range glow plug intended
specifically for performance engines like the XTM Racing # 4 or the XTM Racing # 3 during the break-in process. After the break-in
process you may want to use a different heat-range glow plug. Do not use glow plugs intended for four stroke aircraft engines or glow
plugs with an 'idle bar'. Using the wrong type of glow plug will cause the engine to run erratically and make it difficult to tune properly.
The wrong type of glow plug could also damage the engine. An XTM Racing # 4 glow plug is included in the engine.
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bECOmING fAmILIAR WITh YOUR NITRO RAIL Off-ROAD bUGGY
n Chassis Components Overview
Use the photo and descriptions below to familiarise yourself with the Nitro Rail Off-Road Buggy's main chassis components.
Roll Cage
Shock Tower
Engine
Throttle/Brake
Servo
Air
Filter
Wing
Battery
Box
Centre
Differential
Steering Servo
Receiver
Box
Turnbuckle
Body Mount
Pick-Up Tube
Bumper
Shock Absorber
Pressure Tube
Fuel Tank
Steering Tie-Rod
Suspension Arm
Wheel/Tyre Assembly
*Roll cage shown in the opened position. Body not shown.
Features and specifications subject to change without notice.
Air Filter: The air filter is made of foam and prevents dirt and debris from entering the engine through the carburettor. The air filter
should be 'wet' with air filter oil for maximum efficiency.
Battery Box: Moulded out of impact-resistant nylon plastic, the battery box protects the receiver battery pack from dust, dirt and oil.
The battery box is not waterproof.
Body Mount: Moulded out of high-impact nylon plastic for strength, the body mount supports the body. Five body mounts are featured
to secure the body firmly in place.
Bumper: Moulded out of impact-resistant nylon plastic, the bumper protects the chassis from most head-on impacts.
Centre Differential: The centre differential transfers power between the front and rear gearboxes. The centre differential can be tuned
for specific conditions using different weights of silicone oil.
Engine: The Nitro Rail features a powerful .28 size two-stroke nitro engine with pull-starter for ease of use and great performance.
Fuel Tank: The fuel tank holds the fuel that the engine uses. The fuel tank includes a fuel pressure nipple that connects to the tuned pipe
to pressurise the fuel system and also features a quick-flip type lid for fast refueling. A splash guard and overflow tube are also featured.
Pick-Up Tube: Connected between the fuel tank pick-up and the engine's carburettor. Fuel enters the engine through this tube.
Pressure Tube: Connected between the pressure nipple in the fuel tank's lid and the tuned pipe. Exhaust pressure moves through this
tube to pressurise the fuel tank which improves fuel flow and engine performance.
Receiver Box: Moulded out of impact-resistant nylon plastic, the receiver box protects the receiver from dust, dirt and debris. The receiver
box is not waterproof.
Roll Cage: The roll cage is constructed of aluminium and helps protect the components within the chassis. The roll cage also helps stiffen
the chassis because it's rigidly attached to the aluminium side frames, the rear shock tower and the front steering plate.
Shock Absorber: Each shock is oil-filled and uses a spring that is well suited for most off-road conditions. The shocks are threaded
and feature preload tension rings that allow the shocks to be easily tuned for different driving conditions. The shocks come standard
with 30Wt oil and 1.6mm silver springs.
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bECOmING fAmILIAR WITh YOUR NITRO RAIL Off-ROAD bUGGY
n Chassis Component Overview, Continued....
Shock Tower: Secures the shock absorber while allowing many different geometry settings to suit different track conditions. The shock
towers are made from 4mm 6061 aluminium for strength.
Steering Servo: Controls the Nitro Rail's steering. A 'servo saver' is used to help prevent the servo gears from being stripped out.
Steering Tie-Rod: The steering tie-rod connects the steering linkage and the castor block. The tie-rods are adjustable so you can make
toe-angle adjustments to the front wheels.
Suspension Arm: Helps support the Nitro Rail’s handling (when coupled to shock absorbers) and braking whilst ensuring maximum
traction (keeps the wheels in contact with the ground) and protects the chassis components from undue stress and strain.
Throttle/Brake Servo: Controls the Nitro Rail's acceleration and braking functions. When moved one direction, the servo opens the
engine's carburettor. When moved in the opposite direction, the servo closes the engine's carburettor and engages the Nitro Rail's dual
disc brakes.
Turnbuckle: Joins the upper inner and upper outer suspension components. The turnbuckle is threaded, allowing you to adjust the
camber angle of the front and rear tyres.
Wheel/Tyre Assembly: The Nitro Rail features moulded rubber tyres with a tread pattern that is good for most off-road applications.
The wheels are moulded in one piece from lightweight, high-impact plastic and feature a metal outer ring for extra strength.
Wing: Provides downforce to ensure maximum traction. Wing angle can be adjusted to suit different track conditions.
n Engine Overview
Use the photo and descriptions below to familiarise yourself with the XTM Racing .28 rear exhaust nitro engine and exhaust system.
Carburettor: Meters the air/fuel mixture and delivers it to the combustion chamber to produce power. The carburettor features a high-speed
needle valve which controls the high speed mixture and a low speed needle valve, which controls the idle mixture and the transition
from idle to full throttle. For more information, see page 12.
Glow Plug
Clutch Bell: Equivalent to a pinion gear, the clutch
bell is installed on the end of the crankshaft and spins
around the clutch shoes. When the clutch shoes spread
apart against the inside of the clutch bell, the clutch bell
transmits the power of the engine to the spur gear on the
centre differential. Different size clutch bells are available
to change the gear ratio. For more information, see the
Option Parts List on pages 81 and 82.
Coupler: Made from silicone rubber, the coupler connects
the exhaust header and the tuned pipe.
Cylinder Head
Pull-Starter
Carburettor
Flywheel
Cylinder Head: Cast from aluminium for its light weight
and heat dissipation qualities, the cylinder head helps
keep the engine from overheating.
Exhaust Header
Clutch Bell
Coupler
Fuel Nipple
Exhaust Header: A short length of extruded aluminium
that connects the tuned pipe to the engine's exhaust
port. The exhaust header is held firmly in place using a
spring retainer.
Pressure Nipple
Flywheel: The flywheel helps the engine's crankshaft
maintain momentum as it's rotating, particularly at idle.
The clutch shoes are also installed onto the flywheel.
Tuned Pipe
Fuel Nipple: This is where the fuel pick-up tube from the
fuel tank is connected.
Glow Plug: Similar to a spark plug, the glow plug features an element that glows red hot to ignite the fuel/air mixture in the combustion
chamber. One washer (included with the glow plug) should be installed with the glow plug to ensure an adequate seal.
Pull-Starter: Spring recoil system used to start the engine.
Pressure Nipple: This is where the pressure tube from the fuel tank is connected.
Tuned Pipe: The tuned pipe is an expansion muffler that greatly increases the power output of the engine.
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TIPS fROm ThE PROS
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A separate Operating Manual is included for the radio control system included with your Nitro Rail Off-Road Buggy. Make sure to read
it thoroughly, in addition to this Operating Manual, before running your model for the first time.
Double-check all of the fasteners to ensure that they're tight.
Do not overtighten any screws that thread into nylon or composite material, or the material may strip out. Screws threaded into nylon
or composite material need only be tightened snugly.
Any screws that are threaded directly into metal should be secured into place with threadlock. This will prevent the screws from loosening
during use. Screws threaded into nylon or composite material do not require threadlock.
If you have difficulty sliding the receiver antenna wire through the antenna support tube, first pull the antenna wire through your fingers
several times to straighten it, then lightly wet the antenna wire with glass cleaner. The glass cleaner will make the antenna wire slide
through the support tube much easier. Leave any excess antenna wire hanging from the top of the antenna support tube. Under no
circumstances should you cut the antenna wire shorter.
If you drive your Nitro Rail in sand, we strongly recommend using the optional prefilter sleeve (P/N 149412) installed over the air filter
to improve the air filter's performance. For more information, see the Option Parts List on page 81.
If the carburettor barrel does not open completely when you pull the throttle trigger back, or if the brakes to not engage fully when
you push the throttle trigger forward, increase the transmitter's throttle High EPA and throttle Low EPA respectively. Be careful not to
increase the EPA settings more than necessary or the throttle servo will bind. For more information, refer to the separate radio control
system Operating Manual included.
If the engine stops when you engage the brakes, increase the engine's idle speed by adjusting the idle stop screw on the carburettor.
For more information, see page 12.
When oiling the air filter element, place the cleaned air filter element in a plastic bag and then apply the air filter oil on it. Close the bag
and work the oil into the air filter element. This allows you to work the oil into the element without getting excess oil on your hands.
When you pinch the fuel line to stop the engine, you must pinch it hard and hold it. The engine will rev up quickly, then stop. We
suggest holding the Nitro Rail while doing this, so that it doesn't lurch out of your hands. Take care to avoid moving and/or hot parts.
Place the chassis on a dedicated car stand or similar so that all four wheels are suspended off the ground. This ensures that your
Nitro Rail does not accidentally drive away when starting the engine if the idle setting is too high.
PREPARING TO RUN YOUR NITRO RAIL Off-ROAD bUGGY
For clarity, the photographs in this section show the roll cage pulled up and pivoted forward, and the body shell removed. While not
necessary to complete these steps, doing this makes it easier to access the chassis components. For more information, see page 24.
n Transmitter and Receiver
q Double-check that your transmitter is turned 'OFF'.
q Install the 'AA' Alkaline batteries into your transmitter, double-checking to make sure that the polarity (+/-) is correct. For more
information, refer to the separate radio control system Operating Manual included.
q Verify that the receiver On/Off switch is turned 'OFF'.
When in the 'OFF' position, the On/Off switch should be pushed forward.
q Remove the battery box lid retaining clip, then pull up on the front of the battery box
lid to open it.
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n Transmitter and Receiver, Continued....
Verify that the connector on your receiver battery pack is configured correctly prior to plugging it into the battery connector in the
battery box. The positive (+) wire should be in the centre of the plug and the negative (-) wire should be on the outside of the plug.
q Plug the connector from your receiver battery pack into the battery connector in the
battery box, making sure that the polarity (+/-) is correct.
q Push the excess wire into the battery box, then close the battery box lid, making sure
not to pinch any of the wires. Refit the retaining clip to hold the battery box lid closed.
q Remove the two 3 x 10mm button head tapping screws that hold the receiver box lid
in place, then remove the receiver box lid.
q Uncoil the receiver antenna wire and feed it up through the hole in the chassis
cross-brace. Refit the receiver box lid, making sure not to pinch any of the wires.
IMPORTANT: Before refitting the receiver box lid, verify that the steering channel
and throttle channel leads are plugged into channel 1 and channel 2, respectively.
PRO TIP: If you have difficulty sliding the antenna wire through the antenna support tube in the next procedure, first pull the antenna
wire through your fingers several times to straighten it, then lightly wet the antenna wire with glass cleaner.
q Slide the receiver antenna wire into the antenna support tube.
q Push the antenna support tube down through the hole in the chassis cross-brace
and into the mounting hole below it.
IMPORTANT: Leave any excess antenna wire hanging from the top of the antenna
support tube. Under no circumstances should you cut the antenna wire shorter.
n Checking the Steering and Throttle Controls
If your model features a 2.4GHz radio control system, your transmitter and receiver have already been paired and should work
correctly. If not, bind your transmitter and receiver again following the procedures in the radio control system Operating Manual.
q Turn your transmitter 'ON' and verify that it has sufficient power.
q Turn the receiver On/Off switch 'ON'. You should notice the servos power up and
move to their neutral positions.
When in the 'ON' position, the On/Off switch should be pushed backward.
q Rotate the transmitter's steering wheel forward (to the right). The Nitro Rail's front
wheels should turn right.
IMPORTANT: If the wheels don't turn right, use the transmitter's steering channel
servo reversing function to change the direction that the front wheels turn. For more
information, refer to the separate radio control system Operating Manual included.
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n Checking the Steering and Throttle Controls, Continued....
q Rotate the transmitter's steering wheel backward (to the left). The Nitro Rail's front
wheels should turn left.
q Let go of the steering wheel. The Nitro Rail's wheels should return to centre.
IMPORTANT: If the wheels do not point straight ahead (centre) after you let go of the steering wheel, use the transmitter's steering
trim function to adjust the wheels so that they point straight ahead. For more information, refer to the separate radio control system
Operating Manual included.
q Pull the transmitter's throttle trigger back. The carburettor barrel should open completely
and the brakes should be disengaged (i.e., the Nitro Rail should roll forward smoothly
when pushed).
IMPORTANT: If the carburettor barrel does not open, use the transmitter's
throttle channel servo reversing function to change the direction of the carburettor
barrel. For more information, refer to the separate radio control system Operating
Manual included.
q Let go of the throttle trigger. The carburettor barrel should return to its idle position - open about 1mm (1/16"). The brakes should still
be disengaged, too. If the brakes are not disengaged when the throttle is at the idle position, refer to the Adjusting the Brake Linkage
section on page 20.
q Push the transmitter's throttle trigger forward. The carburettor barrel should stay in
the idle position [open about 1mm (1/16")] and the brake linkage should move forward
and engage the brakes (i.e., the Nitro Rail will not be able to roll at all when pushed).
q Let go of the throttle trigger and the brakes should disengage.
PRO TIP: If the carburettor barrel does not open completely when you pull the throttle trigger back, or if the brakes to not engage
fully when you push the throttle trigger forward, increase the transmitter's throttle High EPA and throttle Low EPA respectively. For
more information, refer to the separate radio control system Operating Manual included.
Throttle Control Upgrade Tip
To prevent your Nitro Rail from going out of control should the radio control system encounter signal
loss, we suggest using an electronic failsafe device. The electronic failsafe is connected between the
throttle servo and the receiver and is designed to electronically bring the throttle to idle and apply a preset
amount of braking force should the radio control system lose its signal. This will prevent your model from
driving out of control and causing damage.
An electronic failsafe will not will not work if the radio control system loses signal due to battery failure (i.e., loss of transmitter
or receiver battery capacity, or the receiver battery coming unplugged) or throttle servo failure.
n Assembling and installing the Air Filter
Under no circumstances should you operate the engine without the air filter installed on the carburettor. The air filter prevents
dust and debris from entering the engine and damaging it. If you operate your engine at any time without the air filter installed,
the engine will be quickly damaged and require replacement of the piston and sleeve (liner).
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n Assembling and installing the Air Filter, Continued....
IMPORTANT: The foam air filter element comes pre-oiled with air filter oil. See the separate section below on how to clean and
re-oil the foam air filter element when it gets dirty.
q Slip the short end of the silicone elbow onto the base of the air filter and secure it
into place, using one nylon cable tie.
q Remove the foam air filter element from the plastic bag and push it onto the air filter
base. Secure the top of the air filter into place, using the 3 x 10mm flat head tapping
screw provided.
q Slip the long end of the air filter assembly over the base of the carburettor and
secure it into place, using a second nylon cable tie.
IMPORTANT: Attach the short end of the silicone elbow to the air filter and attach the
long end to the carburettor, otherwise the air filter assembly could foul the spur gear.
Cleaning the Air Filter Element
To clean the air filter element, remove it and wash it thoroughly in warm water and a small amount of liquid detergent. After it's clean,
allow it to dry, then 'wet' it with air filter oil and install it back onto the air filter housing. To 'wet' the air filter element, squeeze an ample
amount of air filter oil onto it and work it through the air filter element, using your fingers. Use enough oil to completely saturate the air
filter element. The entire air filter element should be oiled, but not so much that excess oil is dripping from it.
PRO TIP: Place the cleaned air filter element in a plastic bag and then apply the air filter oil on it. Close the plastic bag and work
the oil into the air filter element. This allows you to work the oil into the element without getting excess oil on your hands.
Air Filter Upgrade Tip if Driving Your Nitro Rail in Sand
If you'll be driving your Nitro Rail Off-Road Buggy in sand or in extremely dusty conditions, we suggest using
a prefilter sleeve over the air filter to improve the air filter's performance. Wet the main air filter element, then
slide the prefilter sleeve over the air filter. It's not necessary, nor desirable, to oil the prefilter sleeve. We
suggest using XTM Racing 1/8th Scale Prefilter Sleeves (P/N 149412).
bECOmING fAmILIAR WITh ThE xTm RACING .28 NITRO ENGINE
WARNING! PLEASE READ THIS INFORMATION BEFORE PROCEEDING!
Your Nitro Rail Off-Road Buggy comes equipped with the user-friendly and powerful XTM Racing .28 two-stroke nitro engine and
high-torque tuned pipe. Before starting the engine for the first time, you MUST read this section and the next two sections very carefully.
This section details the different parts of the engine's carburettor and how to adjust the carburettor's needle valves to tune the engine.
The remaining two sections detail fueling and starting the engine, then breaking in the engine.
Failure to read this information may result in your not knowing how to properly operate your new engine,which can result in
poor engine performance and even damage to the engine itself.
You will need to following items on-hand to fuel and start your engine. For more information, see pages 4 and 5.
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20% Nitro Car Fuel
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Small Flat Blade Screwdriver
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Fuel Bottle
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1/8th Scale 4-Way Wrench
Page 11
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Glow Starter (Charged)
bECOmING fAmILIAR WITh ThE xTm RACING .28 NITRO ENGINE
High Speed
Needle Valve
Low Speed
Needle Valve
Idle Stop
Screw
n Carburettor Familiarisation
Refer to the photo at left to familiarise yourself with your engine's carburettor. All of the
carburettor settings come preset from the factory for initial starting and break-in, but you
should have a small flat blade screwdriver handy to make adjustments to the carburettor
during the break-in process.
n Idle Stop Screw
1mm
The idle stop screw adjusts the engine's idle speed. Turn the idle stop screw clockwise to
increase the idle speed and anti-clockwise to lower the idle speed. Ideally, the idle stop
screw should be adjusted [open about 1mm (1/16")] so that the engine idles smoothly,
yet slow enough so that the clutch stays disengaged. If the idle speed is too high, the
engine will idle very fast and the clutch will never disengage. This will wear out the clutch
very quickly. If the idle speed is too slow, the engine may die during idle or when you
apply the brakes.
n High Speed Needle Valve
The high speed needle valve is used to meter the air/fuel mixture at full throttle. Turn
the high speed needle valve clockwise to lean the mixture and anti-clockwise to richen
the mixture.
The high speed needle valve is preset from the factory for the initial starting
procedure. Do not make adjustments to it at this time.
n Low Speed Needle Valve
The low speed needle valve meters the air/fuel mixture at idle and during transition
from idle to full throttle. Turn the low speed needle valve clockwise to lean the mixture
and anti-clockwise to richen the mixture.
The low speed needle valve is preset from the factory for the initial starting
procedure. Do not make adjustments to it at this time.
n High and Low Speed Needle Valve Factory Settings
There may come a time when you get the needle valve settings out of spec, resulting in poor engine performance or not even being
able to start the engine at all. If this occurs, reset both the high and low speed needle valves to their factory settings as described below:
RESETTING THE HIGH SPEED NEEDLE VALVE
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Use a flat blade screwdriver to gently turn the high speed needle valve clockwise until it bottoms out (fully closed).
Do not force it or you may damage the carburettor.
Turn the high speed needle valve anti-clockwise (open) 3 full turns.
RESETTING THE LOW SPEED NEEDLE VALVE
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Pull the throttle arm to open the carburettor barrel completely.
While holding the carburettor barrel open, use a flat blade screwdriver to gently turn the low speed needle valve clockwise until it
bottoms out (fully closed). Do not force it or you may damage the carburettor.
Turn the low speed needle valve anti-clockwise (open) 3 full turns.
IMPORTANT: The factory settings listed above are for break-in. Once the engine is broken in, the needle valve settings will be
different, although these settings are good for getting your engine running again. Please be aware that you will need to retune your
engine for proper performance.
Page 12
fUELING AND STARTING ThE xTm RACING .28 NITRO ENGINE
If at any time the pull-starter becomes very tight or difficult to pull - STOP! The engine has become flooded and the excess fuel
must be removed from the engine or damage to the pull-starter and/or engine could occur. To remove the excess fuel from
the engine follow the procedures listed below:
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Completely close the high speed needle valve (turn clockwise) until it bottoms out. Do this gently. Don't force it!
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Remove the glow plug and its washer from the cylinder head.
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With a rag over the top of the engine, pull the pull-starter cord several times to expel the excess fuel from the engine.
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Check to make sure that the glow plug has not been fouled, then reinstall it and its washer.
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Reset the high speed needle valve 3 full turns out from bottom (fully closed).
WARNING: Under no circumstances should you operate the engine without the air filter installed on the carburettor. The air filter
prevents dust and debris from entering the engine and damaging it. If you operate your engine at any time without the air filter
installed, the engine will be quickly damaged and require replacement of the piston and sleeve (liner).
n Filling the Fuel Tank
q Lift the fuel tank lid and carefully fill the fuel tank until the fuel level is just below the
top of the fuel tank.
WARNING: Use fuel that is appropriate for nitro car engines. Do not use gasoline/
petrol or diesel fuel! For the break-in period you should use fuel specifically
designed for R/C nitro car engines that contains no more than 20% nitromethane.
n Priming and Starting the Engine
q Using your glow plug wrench, verify that the glow plug and its washer are installed in the cylinder head and snug. If they're not
already preinstalled, install them now. Make sure not to cross-thread or tighten the glow plug too tight.
q Prime the engine by first opening the throttle completely and covering the exhaust
opening in the tuned pipe with your finger, then, pull the pull-starter cord several
times until you see fuel just start to enter the carburettor through the fuel line.
IMPORTANT: Do not pull the pull-starter cord all the way out or damage to the pull-starter
will occur. Use a couple of short pulls - about 18cm ~ 20cm (7" ~ 8") long.
q Remove your finger from the exhaust opening and close the throttle down to the
idle position.
PRO TIP: We recommend that you place the chassis on a dedicated car stand or similar so that all four wheels are suspended off
the ground. This will ensure that your Nitro Rail does not accidentally drive away when starting the engine if the idle setting is too high.
q While holding the Nitro Rail firmly with one hand (keep your hand clear of any moving
parts), carefully pull on the pull-starter cord 3 times, using short, quick pulls to check
for a flooded condition.
IMPORTANT: If you can't turn the engine over using the pull-starter, don't force it.
The engine is flooded. Refer to the information at the top of this page.
Engine Starting Tip
When the engine is new, it can be difficult to turn over using the pull-starter. You may find you need to pull the pull-starter harder
than you expect. A trick to help this is to loosen the glow plug slightly, connect the glow starter, then start the engine, remove the
glow starter and retighten the glow plug. This effectively lessens the engine's compression, making it easier to turn over.
Page 13
fUELING AND STARTING ThE xTm RACING .28 NITRO ENGINE
n Priming and Starting the Engine, Continued....
q Connect a fully charged glow starter to the top of the glow plug, making sure that the
glow starter is locked firmly onto the top of the glow plug. You don't want it to fall off
while you're trying to start the engine.
q With the throttle still in the idle position, hold the Nitro Rail firmly with one hand and
carefully pull on the pull-starter cord, using short, quick pulls, until the engine starts.
q Once the engine starts, release the pull-starter cord, allow the engine to run for about
10 seconds more, then remove the glow starter from the glow plug.
IMPORTANT: If the engine does not start after a dozen pulls, refer to the troubleshooting guide on page 32.
Until you're actually ready to break in the engine, do not run it for more than a few minutes. If you run the engine longer without
breaking it in properly, damage to the engine can occur. Break-in will be done in the next section.
q To stop the engine, carefully pinch the fuel pick-up tube with your fingers until the
engine stops. Make sure to pinch the fuel pick-up tube and not the fuel pressure
tube. The fuel pick-up tube is the shorter one connected to the carburettor.
Be careful not to touch any parts of the engine or the tuned pipe because they will
be hot. Also, be careful to avoid any moving parts.
IMPORTANT: When you pinch the fuel pick-up tube to stop the engine, you must pinch it hard and hold it. The engine will rev up
quickly, then stop. We suggest holding the Nitro Rail firmly whilst doing this, so that it doesn't lurch out of your hands.
bREAKING IN AND TUNING ThE xTm RACING .28 NITRO ENGINE
The XTM Racing .28 nitro engine is an ABN engine. The cylinder sleeve (liner) is tapered at the top, causing severe resistance
when the piston moves through the top of the stroke. This is normal. When the engine heats up to operating temperature, this
resistance will decrease and the proper clearance will be achieved. The break-in procedure will guide you through the steps necessary
to properly break in your new engine. Please follow these procedures closely.
n Break-In and Tuning Tips
Needle Valve Adjustments
No two engines will have the exact same needle valve settings once broken in. Different fuels used, different types and heat-ranges of
glow plugs, the outside air temperature and air pressure all affect the engine. The factory needle valve settings on page 12 are break-in
settings. If you reset the needle valves to the factory settings, the engine will run very rich and you will need to retune it.
Use a Temperature Gun
To make sure that you're not leaning out the engine too much and overheating it during the break-in process, we suggest
using a temperature gun to monitor the engine's operating temperature.
During break-in, engine temperature should not exceed 132ºC (270ºF). The optimum engine operating
temperature is 99 ~ 110ºC (210 ~ 230ºF). The minimum engine operating temperature is 82ºC (180ºF).
Page 14
n Break-In and Tuning Tips, Continued....
Recommended Fuel
For the break-in period you should use a fuel specifically designed for R/C car engines that contains no more than 20% nitromethane
and 10% ~ 14% oil content. Once the engine has been adequately broken in (about 45 minutes of run-time) you can switch to an R/C
car fuel containing up to, but no more than, 30% nitromethane and 10% ~ 14% oil content.
Recommended Glow Plug
An XTM Racing # 4 'medium' heat-range glow plug is included with your engine. This glow plug will suit most users during the break-in process,
although you may or may not need to change to a different type of glow plug after the break-in process is complete. We suggest having a couple
of extra glow plugs handy, because it can be expected that glow plugs will wear out quickly during the engine's break-in process.
There are a variety of different heat range glow plugs to suit your engine. Typically, use a hotter glow plug if you're using 15% ~ 20% nitro fuel
or are running in cooler ambient temperatures. Hotter glow plugs typically improve idle and transition, too. Use a cooler glow plug if you're
running 25% ~ 30% nitro fuel or are running in higher ambient temperatures.
Break-In on a Flat Surface
Break in the engine by running the Nitro Rail on a flat surface (car park/parking lot, etc.) It's important that the engine not be placed
under too much load and that it receive adequate airflow during the break-in process, so as not to overheat.
Slipping Pull-Starter
If, during the break-in process, the pull-starter slips when you try to start the engine,
Pull-Starter Handle and
the one-way bearing and pull-starter shaft may be coated with excess fuel oil.
Cover Assembly
This can occur because the excess oil in the engine during the break-in process
One-Way
Bearing
Pull-Starter
Backplate
Recoil
gets into the one-way bearing. To fix this, carefully remove the one-way bearing and
Cord
Bolts
Spring
O-Ring
Spool
Cushion
the pull-starter shaft, clean them with rubbing alcohol and reassemble the parts.
Spring
Use the exploded parts view at right to see how the parts are assembled. Also, be
careful when removing the pull-starter assembly to ensure that the recoil spring
does not uncoil and fly out. After removing the screws securing the pull-starter,
Backplate
carefully insert a flat blade screwdriver between the engine backplate and the
Pull-Starter
Shaft
Cover Bolts
pull-starter. Apply slight pressure against the pull-starter to help prevent the
recoil spring from uncoiling. Temporarily secure the pull-starter with a rubber band or tape while cleaning the one-way parts and be very
careful when reassembling the unit.
The use of eye protection during this procedure is strongly recommended.
Exhaust Trail and Excess Fuel Oil
During the break-in process, it's normal for excess fuel oil and exhaust residue to drip from the tuned pipe. In addition, it's normal (and
desirable) to always have a visible smoke trail coming from the tuned pipe. This is a good indicator that the engine is not running too lean.
Air Filter
The air filter is a very important part of your engine. Failure to use the air filter will damage the engine in a very short period of time.
Make sure that you wet the air filter element with air filter oil and use a prefilter sleeve if you are driving in sand or dusty conditions. For
more information, see page 11.
Under no circumstances should you operate the engine without the air filter installed on the carburettor. The air filter prevents
dust and debris from entering the engine and damaging it. If you operate your engine at any time without the air filter installed,
the engine will be quickly damaged and require replacement of the piston and sleeve (liner).
n Breaking in the Engine Using the Heat Cycling Method
WARNING: Do not adjust the low speed needle valve until after the engine has been broken in. The low speed needle valve
can be adjusted after you have broken in the engine and after you have read and understood the Tuning the Engine section on
the next page.
q Follow the previous procedures to fill the fuel tank and start the engine.
q Once the engine starts, keep the glow starter attached to the glow plug and let the engine run for about 10 seconds without giving
it throttle. This will allow the engine to warm up.
Page 15
n Breaking in the Engine Using the Heat Cycling Method, Continued....
q After the engine has been running for about 10 seconds, remove the glow starter from the glow plug. Advance the throttle in short,
quick bursts and drive the Nitro Rail for about 2 ~ 3 minutes. If the engine is running rich enough, you should notice smoke coming
from the tuned pipe and the engine should sound like it’s running very rough. Also, the Nitro Rail will barely be moving because the
engine is running so rich that it won't produce much power. This is what you want for now. If a visible smoke trail isn't coming
from the tuned pipe, richen the high speed needle valve 1/4 of a turn (turn anti-clockwise). After 2 ~ 3 minutes stop the engine
by pinching the fuel pick-up tube.
q Let the engine cool for approximately 10 minutes, then restart it. Set the high speed needle valve mixture to a slightly leaner setting,
about 1/8 of a turn more in (turn clockwise). Repeat the procedure above, advancing the throttle in short, quick bursts and driving
the Nitro Rail for about 2 ~ 3 minutes, then stop the engine again and let it cool for approximately 10 minutes.
q Repeat the procedure above, leaning the high speed needle valve about 1/8 of a turn more each time (turn clockwise). In all, you
should run the engine a total of about 45 minutes. After 45 minutes of run-time the engine will be broken in. Run the engine with the
high speed needle valve set slightly rich, but lean enough to power the Nitro Rail adequately. At this point the engine should hold a
good setting on the high speed needle valve and you can begin to fine tune the needle valve settings to increase performance.
n Tuning the Engine
After the engine has been broken in, you can adjust the high and low speed needle valves for optimum engine performance.
IMPORTANT: When running the engine, you should always be able to see a trail of smoke coming from the tuned pipe. It is of the
utmost importance that the engine never be leaned out too much. Remember, the lubricants for your engine are suspended in the
fuel. If you lean out the fuel mixture too much you will also be lowering the amount of lubricant entering your engine. Less lubricant
means more chance of your engine overheating and possible engine failure. If you don't see a trail of smoke coming from the tuned
pipe, stop the engine immediately and richen the high speed needle valve (turn anti-clockwise).
Adjusting the High Speed Needle Valve
q Start the engine, allow it to warm up for about 10 seconds, then remove the glow starter from the glow plug.
q After the engine has warmed up, drive the Nitro Rail as you normally would. If the engine seems to be running rich (i.e., not reaching
maximum power), lean the high speed needle valve about 1/16 of a turn (turn clockwise) at a time until the desired setting is achieved.
We recommend that you use a temperature gun to ensure that the engine is within the suggested temperature range [99 ~ 110ºC
(210 ~ 230ºF)] and always make sure that you run the engine slightly rich - you want to be able to see an exhaust trail at all times.
Adjusting the Low Speed Needle Valve
q Start the engine and lean out the high speed needle valve per the procedures above. Close the throttle until the engine slows down
enough so that the clutch is disengaged and the wheels don’t turn when the Nitro Rail is lifted from the ground. Allow the engine to
idle for about 10 ~ 15 seconds.
If the engine won't idle low enough to disengage the clutch, lower the engine's idle speed by turning the idle stop screw anti-clockwise.
q While holding the Nitro Rail off the ground (making sure to keep your fingers away from any moving parts), quickly open the throttle in a
short burst. If the engine quits as soon as the throttle is advanced, the low speed needle valve is too lean and the engine is not getting
enough fuel. With the engine stopped, richen the low speed needle valve about 1/16 of a turn (turn anti-clockwise).
q Restart the engine and repeat the procedure above until the engine will transition smoothly and quickly. Very slight hesitation in the
transition is normal.
q If you quickly open the throttle and the engine seems to be very rich during transition (i.e., lots of smoke coming from the tuned pipe,
very rough sounding and hesitating), the low speed needle valve is too rich and the engine is getting too much fuel. With the engine
stopped, lean the low speed needle valve about 1/16 of a turn (turn clockwise).
q Restart the engine and repeat the procedure above until the engine will transition smoothly and quickly. Very slight hesitation in the
transition is normal.
q Drive the Nitro Rail as you normally would for a while to get a feel for how the engine reacts to throttle. Now that you know the proper way
to tune the engine, you can make slight adjustments to the carburettor until you are satisfied with the performance.
Page 16
INSTALLING ThE bODY ShELL AND WING
For your convenience, some of the decals have already been applied to the body shell. To apply the remaining decals to the body
shell, remove them from the protective backing and apply them to the body shell as desired.
q Fit the wing onto the wing mount, using the long body clip pushed through both wing
mounting posts, to hold it securely in place.
q Install the body shell onto the chassis, using the five body clips provided.
ChASSIS TUNING GUIDE
Chassis alignment and geometry are important if you want your model to perform well. Follow our guidelines in this section to get
the most out of your Nitro Rail.
It's very important when making changes to the settings of your Nitro Rail that you make the settings the same for each side. For
example, if you change the spring tension on the front right shock, you should change the spring tension on the front left shock
the same amount, etc.
Do not make any changes that are more than 3 degrees from the initial settings or the handling characteristics of your
Nitro Rail will become very poor.
n Adjusting Gearing
The Nitro Rail features a 14T clutch bell, which provides a good combination of top speed and acceleration. In general, using a smaller
clutch bell will result in quicker acceleration, but slower top speed and using a larger clutch bell will result in faster top speed, but slower
acceleration. If driving on a smaller track, or if driving in sand, we recommend using an XTM Racing 13T clutch bell. This will cut down
slightly on the top speed, but acceleration will be better and will ensure adequate low-end torque. If driving in a large area or on a track
with long straightaways, we recommend using an XTM Racing 15T clutch bell. This will increase top speed, but acceleration will be
slower. It's all a matter of experimenting with different pinion gears to find the one that best suits your track and driving style. For a complete
list of the XTM Racing clutch bells that are available, see the Option Parts List on pages 81 and 82.
n Adjusting Shock Mounting Positions - Front and Rear
The Nitro Rail shock towers feature a number of different mounting positions for the shocks. By changing the location of the upper shock
mounts you can make the shock feel stiffer or softer as the chassis rolls from side-to-side. In general, moving the shocks toward the
outside will make the shock stiffer and moving the shock toward the inside will make the shock softer.
You will need to experiment with these settings to find something that suits both your track and driving style. A good starting point is
to adjust the rear shocks. Moving the rear shocks toward the outside will give more 'bite' (traction) in the turns. However, depending on
how you drive, you might want to move the shocks toward the middle. This will give a more 'plush' suspension.
recommended Initial settings
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We recommend initially leaving the shock mounting positions in the factory locations.
q Remove the 3mm flanged lock nut that holds the top of the shock in place, then pull
the top of the shock (and the plastic bushing) off the shock mount.
q Unscrew the shock mount, then reinstall it into the new desired position, making sure
to tighten the cap screw firmly.
q Reinstall the bushing and shock. Firmly tighten the 3mm flanged lock nut, then loosen it 1/2 a turn to ensure the shock doesn't bind.
Make sure to adjust the right and left sides equally.
Page 17
n Adjusting Toe Angle - Front and Rear
The toe angle is the angle of both front tyres (or rear tyres) to each other, when viewed from above. 'Toe-in' is when the front of both
tyres point toward each other and 'toe-out' is when the front of both tyres point away from each other.
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For the front tyres, toe-in will make the Nitro Rail track (run) straighter, but the steering will be more sensitive. Toe-out will desensitise
the steering, making the Nitro Rail a little more driver-friendly.
For the rear tyres, if you're running on a smooth surface, we suggest no toe-in. If you're running on a rough surface, we suggest about
1 ~ 2 degrees of toe-in. This will give the rear end a little more 'bite' (traction).
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0 degrees toe-in on the front and 2 degrees toe-in on the rear for overall best 4WD driveability on most surfaces. 2 degrees toe-in
on the rear is stock.
Adding more than 3 degrees of toe-in or toe-out on the front will result in excessive loss of speed and erratic handling. Toe
adjustments should be measured with the Nitro Rail at its normal ride height.
Straight - No Toe
Toe-In
Toe-Out
q To adjust the toe-angle of the front tyres, turn the tie-rods in or out using the 5mm
end of the combination wrench provided.
PRO TIP: For more precise toe angle adjustments, use a dedicated toe angle
adjustment gauge, available at most hobby retailers.
q To adjust the toe-in on the rear tyres, use one of the different suspension holders provided to set the desired toe angle, as described
in the procedures below. For convenience, the degree of toe angle is moulded into the back of each suspension holder.
q Remove the two 4 x 12mm button head tapping screws that hold the suspension
holder in place, then carefully pull out the suspension holder, being careful not to pull
out the hinge pins.
q Install the desired suspension holder. Installation is the reverse of the disassembly
procedure.
n Adjusting Bump Steer - Front
The front upper hinge pins can be moved up or down to adjust bump steer. Generally, if you move the hinge pins into a lower position,
this will increase bump steer, which can be helpful on tight tracks. For a larger track, you may want to move the hinge pins to a higher
position to decrease bump steer.
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We recommend initially leaving the front upper hinge pins in the factory locations.
q Adjust bump steer by removing the upper hinge pins and reinstalling them, along with
the upper suspension arms, in a hole either further up or lower down in the upper
suspension plate.
When tightening the hex nuts on the back of the hinge pins, be careful not to overtighten them or the suspension arms may not
pivot freely. Make sure to adjust the right and left sides equally.
Page 18
n Adjusting Camber Angle - Front and Rear
Camber is referred to as the amount of the tyre's surface that contacts the ground. Tyres that are exactly perpendicular to the ground
have 0 degrees of camber. If the top of the tyre leans in toward the chassis, the tyre has negative camber. If the top of the tyre leans
out away from the chassis, the tyre has positive camber.
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Camber angle should be adjusted to ensure maximum tyre contact between the ground and the tyres for your particular track. You
can check to ensure maximum tyre contact by first cleaning your tyres, then by running the Nitro Rail on your track. After running,
check the dirt and/or wear marks on the tyre. Adjust the camber angle if the dirt and/or wear marks are more toward the outside or
the inside of the tyre.
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For driving on smooth surfaces set both the front and back tyres at 0 degrees.
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For driving on rough surfaces set the front tyres at -1 degree and the back tyres at -2 degrees.
Camber settings should be measured with the Nitro Rail at its normal ride height.
PRO TIP: For more precise camber adjustments, use a dedicated camber gauge, available at most hobby retailers.
Positive
Camber
Negative
Camber
q To increase positive camber angle, turn the tie-rods using the 5mm end of the
combination wrench provided to lengthen the upper suspension arm assembly and
push the top of the tyres out.
q To increase negative camber angle, turn the tie-rods using the 5mm end of the
combination wrench provided to shorten the upper suspension arm assembly and
pull the top of the tyres in.
Make sure to adjust the right and left tyres equally.
n Adjusting Shock Spring Tension - Front and Rear
By adjusting the spring tension of the shocks, you can increase steering sensitivity, adjust the ride-height of the Nitro Rail, and fine-tune
the damping quality of the suspension system. How you drive your Nitro Rail will dictate what settings you should be using. For example,
if you're driving your Nitro Rail off-road and going over lots of jumps, you may want to increase the spring tension of the front shocks to help
prevent the front of the Nitro Rail from bottoming out. If you're racing your Nitro Rail, local track conditions will dictate the settings to use.
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We recommend initially leaving each of the adjustment rings in the factory positions.
q Increase or decrease spring tension by threading the adjustment ring up or down
the shock body. Threading the adjustment ring down (clockwise) increases spring
tension and the chassis's ride height, and will stiffen the overall damping characteristics
of the suspension. Threading the adjustment ring up (anti-clockwise) decreases spring
tension and makes the damping characteristics of the suspension softer.
Make sure to adjust the right and left shocks equally.
Page 19
n Changing Shock Springs - Front and Rear
Shock springs are easy to change and can make a difference in the way your Nitro Rail handles relative to the type of terrain you're
driving on. If you drive your Nitro Rail off-road, in a smooth, high-traction area, use stiffer springs to reduce body roll and weight shift.
If the area where you drive your Nitro Rail is very bumpy, you might consider using softer springs to help absorb the bumps. If the area
is bumpy and you use harder springs, the Nitro Rail will have a tendency to jump and hop around. The shock springs included with the
Nitro Rail are suitable for most general off-road applications.
front
SOFT
STIFF
P/N 149356
rear
58mm
and
P/N 149372
80.5mm
1.3mm Shock Spring (RED)
P/N 149354
58mm
and
P/N 149370
80.5mm
1.4mm Shock Spring (BLUE)
P/N 149352
58mm
and
P/N 149366
80.5mm
1.5mm Shock Spring (WHITE)
P/N 148672
58mm
and
P/N 148673
80.5mm
1.6mm Shock Spring (SILVER) - STOCK
P/N 149349
58mm
and
P/N 149364
80.5mm
1.7mm Shock Spring (BLACK)
n Adjusting Shock Damping - Front and Rear
Changing the shock oil will change the damping characteristics of the shocks. Typically, if you are running on smooth surfaces, use a
heavier weight shock oil. If you are running on rough surfaces, use a lighter weight shock oil.
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We recommend using the shock oil that the shocks are already filled with. For racing, you may want to consider using 40 weight
shock oil. Use only 100% silicone oil in the shocks. Do not use motor oil.
q Remove the 3mm flanged lock nut that holds the top of the shock in place, then pull the top of the shock (and the plastic bushing)
off the shock mount.
q Carefully unscrew the shock cap. Slowly pull the shock piston down completely, then
empty the shock oil from the shock. Fill the shock body with shock oil until the oil
level is just below the top of the shock body, then carefully pump the shock piston up
and down several times to dissipate any air bubbles from the shock oil. Top off the
shock oil level if necessary, before reinstalling the shock cap. For more information,
see page 47.
q Reinstall the bushing and shock. Firmly tighten the 3mm flanged lock nut, then loosen it 1/2 a turn to ensure the shock doesn't bind.
n Adjusting the Brake Linkage
With both your transmitter and receiver turned 'ON', and the throttle trim and servo arm centred, the Nitro Rail should roll forward smoothly
when pushed (i.e., the brakes should be disengaged). If the brakes are dragging when the throttle trigger is at neutral, the brake discs
and pads will wear out very quickly. To ensure that the brakes are disengaged, always make sure that there is a narrow space between
the two rear adjustment collars and the two springs installed between the adjustment collars and the brake levers. Both adjustment
collars should be adjusted the same to ensure that both brake levers engage equally and at the same time during braking.
l
We suggest initially leaving the adjustment collars in the factory positions, then readjust them to suit your local track conditions and
driving style after driving your Nitro Rail a couple of times.
q To make adjustments to the brake linkage, loosen the 3mm grub screw in the
adjustment collars located behind the brake levers, reposition them, then retighten
the grub screws firmly. Moving the adjustment collars forward, toward the brake
levers, will result in the brakes coming on sooner and more forcefully. Moving the
adjustment collars back, away from the brake levers, will result in the brakes coming
on later, and less forcefully.
With the throttle trigger in the neutral position, the adjustment collars should not
compress the two springs or the brakes will drag.
Page 20
n Adjusting Brake Bias
Since the front and rear brakes can be adjusted independently of each other, you may not want both front and rear brakes to engage
at the same time. If you want the rear brakes to engage just before the front brakes, move the adjustment collar behind the front brake
lever slightly further back. This will result in the rear brakes engaging just before the front brakes. If you want the front brakes to engage
just before the rear brakes, move the adjustment collar behind the rear brake lever slightly further back. This will result in the front brakes
engaging just before the rear brakes. Experimentation will be necessary to achieve the desired braking response, dependant on your
track conditions and driving style.
With the throttle trigger in the neutral position, the adjustment collars should not compress the two springs or the brakes will drag.
n Adjusting Droop - Front and Rear
Droop is the distance each wheel drops from normal ride height when the chassis is lifted off the ground. Droop is adjusted on each wheel
by turning the grub screw in each lower suspension arm up or down. Generally, more droop equals more roll equals more traction.
Less droop equals less roll equals less traction. Droop also changes weight transfer. Experimentation will be necessary to achieve the
desired response, dependant on your track conditions and driving style.
l
We recommend initially leaving the droop screws in the factory settings.
q To decrease droop, tighten (turn clockwise) the droop screw in each lower suspension
arm. To increase droop, loosen (turn anti-clockwise) the droop screw in each lower
suspension arm.
n Adjusting Steering Sensitivity - Front
You can adjust your Nitro Rail's steering sensitivity by tightening or loosening the servo saver spring. In general, tightening the servo saver
spring will cause the steering to be more responsive, and loosening the servo saver spring will cause the steering to be less responsive.
l
We recommend initially leaving the servo saver adjustment ring in the factory position.
q To access the servo saver spring, remove the steering servo linkage from the servo
arm, then remove the steering servo by removing the four 3 x 10mm flat head tapping
screws from the bottom of the chassis that hold the two servo mounts in place.
q Adjust the servo saver spring by adjusting the servo saver adjustment ring up or
down. Threading the adjustment ring up (anti-clockwise) will tighten the servo saver
spring and threading the adjustment ring down (clockwise) will loosen the servo
saver spring.
Tightening the servo saver spring increases the chance of damaging the steering servo during a crash. Adjust only as necessary.
n Tyres
The Nitro Rail features 1/8th scale buggy tyres that are sized to provide good overall performance with the 14T clutch bell installed. If
you're racing your Nitro Rail, you may want to experiment with different diameter tyres, just the same as you would experiment with
different clutch bells. In general, if you use smaller diameter tyres, there will be less rotating mass, resulting in better off-the-line power
and acceleration, however, you will lose top speed. Using larger diameter tyres will result in slightly faster top speed, but slower
acceleration. It's all a matter of experimenting with different tyre sizes (and, if desired, different size clutch bells) to find the combination
that best suits your track and driving style.
Page 21
n Adjusting the Differentials - Front, Centre, and Rear
The Nitro Rail features front, centre and rear bevel gear differentials that feature O-Ring seals and cup-style housings. All three differentials
are packed with differential grease that works well for most driving conditions. You can make fine-tuned adjustments to each differential
by removing them from the chassis, opening them up and replacing the grease with different weights of silicone oil.
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Front and Rear Differentials: Adding heavier silicone oil will tighten the differentials and adding lighter silicone oil will loosen the
differentials. If your Nitro Rail feels loose (uncontrollable) during turns, you can tighten the front differential or loosen the rear differential.
If your Nitro Rail is pushing (understeer) during turns, you can loosen the front differential or tighten the rear differential.
Centre Differential: Using a lighter weight oil will cause the differential to unload easier. Generally, this is good for loose tracks with
little traction. Using a heavier weight oil will provide a more even amount of power to the front and rear. On loose tracks, this can cause
the Nitro Rail to be too 'squirrely' (uncontrollable) or cause the rear end to slide out. For this reason, we only suggest using heavier
oil if you're driving on a high-traction surface.
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Unless you're racing, we recommend initially using the grease that already fills each differential. For general dirt track racing, we
recommend using the following weights of differential oils: 3K in the Front, 10K in the Centre, and 2K in the Rear. For use in sand,
we recommend using 30K in the Front, 70K in the Centre and 10K in the Rear.
We detail below the removal of the front differential. Removing the centre and rear differentials is similar. If necessary, refer to
the Exploded View Assembly Drawings beginning on page 33 for more detailed information.
q Remove the two 4 x 12mm flat head tapping screws and the two 4 x 16mm flat head
tapping screws from the bottom of the chassis that hold the front bumper and front
half of the gearbox in place, then remove the front bumper.
When reinstalling the front bumper after filling the differential, make sure to install
the two longer 4 x 16mm flat head tapping screws in the front half of the gearbox
and the two shorter 4 x 12mm flat head tapping screws in the front bumper.
q Remove the two upper hinge pins, then remove the two 3 x 38mm button head
tapping screws that hold the upper suspension plate in place and remove it.
q Remove the two 4 x 8mm button head tapping screws that hold the lower suspension
plate in place and remove it, then firmly pull the front half of the differential case
straight out.
q Remove the two lower hinge pins, drop the lower suspension arms, then firmly
pull the differential assembly straight out.
q Remove the four 2 x 10mm round head tapping screws that hold the differential
housing together. Pull the differential housing apart, then pull the differential assembly
out of the differential housing.
q You can now disassemble the differential, remove the grease, then reassemble and
refill the differential with the silicone oil of your choice.
For detailed information about disassembling, then re-assembling the differentials,
see the 'STEP 1: FRONT, REAR AND CENTRE DIFFERENTIALS' section on page 33.
Page 22
mAINTENANCE AND qUICK bREAK DOWN GUIDE
n Adjusting Gear Mesh
When you change the clutch bell the engine must be removed from the chassis and the gear mesh must be adjusted properly when you
reinstall the engine or damage to the clutch bell and/or spur gear could result. If the gear mesh is too loose, the gears may strip out. If
the gear mesh is set too tight, the gears will bind.
After the engine is installed on the two engine mounts and the two engine mounts are installed onto the chassis, follow the procedures
below to adjust the gear mesh.
q Loosen the four 3 x 16mm cap screws that hold the engine to the engine mounts.
q Slide the engine forward or backward until the teeth on the clutch bell are centred with the teeth on the spur gear, then tighten the
cap screws securely.
q Loosen the four 5 x 10mm button head screws that hold the engine mounts to the
chassis, then slide the engine away from the spur gear.
q
Cut a narrow strip of notebook paper approximately 100mm (4") long and place
it between the clutch bell and the spur gear. Push the engine toward the spur gear
firmly, so that the notebook paper crinkles. While holding the engine in place (making
sure that it's straight), tighten the four 5 x 10mm button head screws firmly. Remove
the strip of notebook paper by turning the clutch bell with your finger.
When the gear mesh is adjusted correctly, there should be very slight play between the two gears. In addition, the strip of notebook
paper should be tightly crinkled, but not punctured or ripped. If the gears are too tight they will bind and if they are too loose they
will strip out. With the wheels off the ground, you should be able to rotate the clutch bell relatively easily with your finger. If it's difficult
to rotate the clutch bell, the gear mesh is likely too tight and needs further adjustment.
n Engine Maintenance
To keep your engine operating at peak performance there are some basic maintenance procedures that need to be performed on a
regular basis. It is strongly recommended.
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After you have finished running the engine for the day, pinch the fuel pick-up tube to stop the engine. This will allow the engine to burn
any excess fuel out of the crankcase.
Remove the air filter element and wash it thoroughly in warm water and a small amount of liquid detergent. After it's clean, allow it to
dry, then wet it with air filter oil and install it back onto the air filter housing. For more information, see page 11.
Remove the glow plug and its washer from the engine and squirt several drops of high-quality after-run oil into the glow plug hole.
Pull the pull-starter cord several times to distribute the oil throughout the engine, then reinstall the glow plug and its washer. This will
prevent corrosion inside your engine.
When you have the glow plug removed to squirt after-run oil into the engine, check the condition of the glow plug. The coil inside the
glow plug should not show any signs of compression or other damage.
l
Clean the outside of the engine using a stiff brush and nitro car cleaner, then dry the engine, using a rag or compressed air.
l
Periodically check the condition of the clutch bell, clutch shoes and clutch springs for wear or damage.
l
Periodically oil the clutch bell bearings. Take care not to get oil on the inside of the clutch bell or the clutch shoes.
l
Check the engine's cylinder head bolts and backplate bolts after each day of use to ensure that they're tight. This will prevent air leaks
from causing erratic engine performance.
n General Maintenance
Following a simple maintenance schedule will ensure that your Nitro Rail Off-Road Buggy operates in top condition every time you use
it. It is strongly recommended.
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Check the chassis for any loose screws, especially the engine and the differential pinion output joint grub screws. Tighten them as
necessary.
Any screws that are threaded directly into metal should be secured in place with threadlock. This will prevent the screws from loosening
during use. Screws threaded into nylon or composite material do not require threadlock.
Do not overtighten any screws that thread into nylon or composite material or the material may strip out. Screws threaded into nylon
or composite material need only be tightened snugly.
Page 23
n General Maintenance, Continued....
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Once in a while, remove the wheels and clean the wheel bearings, using a bearing cleaner. This will remove any dust and grit that
may, over time, damage the bearings. After cleaning the bearings, oil them using a good quality bearing oil. Never run the bearings
dry or damage to the bearings will result.
When you clean the wheel bearings as described above, also remove, clean and oil the clutch bell bearings.
Check the condition of your transmitter and receiver batteries each time you drive your Nitro Rail. If you think they might need
replacement or recharging, do so before driving your Nitro Rail again.
After a period of time the chassis will accumulate a lot of dirt and debris. This buildup should be cleaned off using a soft brush and
compressed air. Dirt and debris that is stuck to the chassis with fuel oil can be cleaned off using a can of nitro car cleaner. Some nitro
car cleaners will damage anodised and/or plated parts. Test on an inconspicuous area first!
After cleaning the chassis and engine, you should oil the moving parts of the chassis. Do not oil the clutch bell, spur gear, driveshafts
(dog bones) or the brake discs/pads.
l
Check that the wheel nuts are tight. Applying a small amount of threadlock will help prevent them from coming loose!
l
Check the suspension system to ensure it is working smoothly without binding.
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Check the steering linkage and the throttle/brake linkage for any signs of wear or misalignment. Tighten and/or readjust them as
necessary. Double-check that the grub screws in the brake adjustment collars are tight.
Check the fuel system, including the fuel tank and fuel tubing, for any signs of cracking or looseness. Replace any fuel tubing you
suspect may be damaged.
Always use new fuel and keep the cap on the fuel tightly closed. As fuel ages it absorbs water, which degrades the fuel's performance
and will cause erratic engine operation.
Never leave unused fuel in the fuel tank for more than a couple of days. The nitromethane and methanol in the fuel will evaporate,
leaving the oil behind. This will eventually turn into a thick sludge that will require replacement of the fuel tank to fix.
n Quick Break Down Guide
This Quick Break Down Guide is provided to show how to break down the main component parts of the Nitro Rail for maintenance or
for repair. For more detailed Assembly Drawings, refer to the Exploded View Assembly Drawings section on pages 33 ~ 69.
1: opening the roll cage
Push back on the wing, then firmly but
carefully pull the back of the roll cage
up and pivot it forward.
B
A
Remove the three 3 x 8mm button head tapping screws from each
side of the roll cage.
When you reinstall the roll cage, push the two vertical
centre posts partially over the mounts, then gently flex
and push the two vertical rear posts over their mounts. Next,
firmly but carefully flex the two upper posts over the mounts
on the shock tower. In some cases, it may help to first loosen
the two roll cage mounts in front of the rear body mounts.
Page 24
n Quick Break Down Guide, Continued....
2: removing the Engine and centre differential Assembly
A
Unsnap the ball link from the throttle arm.
D
Pull the engine and tuned pipe up and
out of the chassis.
B
Disconnect the fuel tubing from the
carburettor and the tuned pipe.
C
Remove the 5 x 5mm grub screw from the front of the
tuned pipe, then remove the four 5 x 10mm screws from
the bottom of the chassis that secure the engine in place.
Page 25
3: removing the centre differential Assembly
Remove the two 3 x 3mm grub screws from the
top of the brake cams. Unsnap the ball link from
the throttle arm, then remove the throttle arm
from the servo and pull the brake levers out of
the brake cams.
C
Remove the two 3 x 12mm screws and two 3mm lock nuts
that hold the centre differential mounting plate to the chassis,
then pull the centre differential assembly straight up and out.
A
A
B
C
Page 26
Remove the four 4 x 12mm flat head tapping
screws from the bottom of the chassis that hold
the two centre differential mounts in place.
4: removing the fuel tank
Ensure that the fuel tank is empty prior to
performing this procedure.
C
Pull the fuel tank up and out of the chassis.
A
B
Disconnect the two pieces of fuel
tubing from the carburettor and the
tuned pipe.
Remove the two 3 x 8mm screws from the bottom of
the chassis that hold the fuel tank in place.
Page 27
5: removing the radio tray
D
C
Pull the radio tray up and out of the chassis.
Remove the servo arm from
the throttle servo.
B
A
Page 28
Remove the servo arm from
the steering servo.
Remove the nine 3 x 10mm flat head tapping screws from the
bottom of the chassis that hold the radio tray in place.
6: removing the rear suspension Assembly
Pull the rear suspension assembly, along with the
rear centre dog bone, up and off the chassis.
C
Remove the 3 x 20mm machine screw and 3mm lock
nut that hold the front of the rear chassis brace in place.
B
A
Remove the four 4 x 16mm flat head tapping screws
from the bottom of the chassis that hold the rear
suspension assembly in place.
Page 29
7: removing the front suspension Assembly
Remove the two 3 x 20mm that hold the steering tie-rods
to the steering knuckles.
A
A
Remove the 3 x 15mm button
head tapping screw that holds the
front chassis brace to the chassis
cross-brace.
B
Pull the front suspension assembly,
along with the front centre dog bone,
out and off the chassis.
D
C
C
Remove the two 4 x 12mm flat head tapping screws and the four 4 x 16mm
flat head tapping screws from the bottom of the chassis that hold the front
bumper and the front suspension assembly in place.
Page 30
TROUbLEShOOTING GUIDE
This Troubleshooting Guide has been provided to help you diagnose and solve most problems that you may encounter with your XTM
Racing Nitro Rail Off-Road Buggy chassis and XTM Racing .28 two-stroke nitro engine. If you cannot solve the problem using this
Troubleshooting Guide, please contact your regional distributor, using the Customer Service Information on page 3.
For troubleshooting information related to the XTM Racing .28 two-stroke nitro engine, refer to the next page.
For troubleshooting information related to the radio control system included with your Nitro Rail, please refer to the separate radio
control system Operating Manual included.
n Nitro Rail Chassis Components
PROBLEM
Nitro Rail pulls to one side
CAUSE
SOLUTION
A) Steering trim out of adjustment
A) Readjust steering trim to centre both wheels
B) Toe angle out of adjustment
B) Readjust toe angle (Page 18)
C) One wheel is hanging or has damaged bearing
C) Remove wheel and clean or replace bearing
A) Stripped or damaged spur gear
A) Replace spur gear
B) Stripped or damaged clutch bell
B) Replace clutch bell
C) Clutch slipping or not engaging
C) Clean or replace clutch shoes and springs
D) Differential output pinion joint(s) loose and slipping
D) Tighten differential output pinion joint grub screw(s)
E) Dog bone(s) broken
E) Replace damaged dog bone(s)
F) Carburettor out of adjustment
F) Readjust carburettor (Pages 12 and 16)
G) Differential(s) damaged
G) Rebuild affected differential(s)
A) One or more shocks sticking
A) Clean and/or rebuild affected shock(s)
B) Bent shock shaft(s)
B) Replace damaged shock shaft(s)
C) Bent or otherwise damaged hinge pin(s)
C) Replace damaged hinged pin(s)
D) Hinge pin retaining nuts too tight
D) Loosen hinge pin retaining nuts to ensure free movement
A) Shock seals worn
A) Replace shock seals
B) Bent shock shaft(s)
B) Replace damaged shock shaft(s)
C) Bottom shock cap not tight
C) Tighten bottom shock cap securely
A) Gear mesh set too loose
A) Replace spur gear and readjust gear mesh (Page 23)
B) Damaged clutch bell
B) Replace clutch bell and spur gear
Screws loosen or fall out during use
A) Vibration under normal use
A) Clean screws with rubbing alcohol, then reinstall using
threadlock
Steering sensitivity is 'sluggish'
A) Servo saver spring too loose
A) Tighten servo saver spring (Page 21)
Clutch does not engage
A) Clutch shoes damaged or worn
A) Replace clutch shoes and springs
B) Clutch bell damaged or worn
B) Replace clutch bell
C) Clutch shoes glazed
C) Remove glaze using fine sandpaper and reinstall
Clutch does not disengage
A) Clutch springs worn or damaged
A) Replace clutch springs
Brakes seem ineffective
A) Brake linkage out of adjustment
A) Readjust brake linkage (Page 20)
B) Brake discs and/or brake pads worn
B) Replace affected brake discs and/or brake pads
A) Engine idle speed set too high
A) Lower engine idle speed (Page 12)
B) Clutch springs damaged or worn
B) Replace clutch springs
Nitro Rail does not 'go'
Suspension not smooth or free
Shock(s) leak oil
Spur gear strips out
Nitro Rail rolls while idling
Page 31
TROUbLEShOOTING GUIDE
n .28 Two-Stroke Nitro Engine
PROBLEM
Engine does not start
CAUSE
SOLUTION
A) Failed glow plug
A) Replace glow plug with new one
B) Glow starter not charged and/or faulty
B) Fully charge glow starter and/or replace
C) Low speed needle valve too lean
C) Adjust low speed needle valve to factory setting (Page 12)
D) Old or contaminated fuel
D) Replace with new recommended fuel
E) Engine flooded with too much fuel
E) Expel fuel from cylinder (Page 13)
F) Air leak in fuel system and/or engine
F) Replace fuel tubing and/or tighten all engine bolts
A) Air leak in fuel system and/or engine
A) Replace fuel tubing and/or tighten all engine bolts
B) High speed needle valve too lean
B) Adjust high speed needle valve to factory setting
(Page 12)
C) Low speed needle valve too lean
C) Adjust low speed needle valve to factory setting (Page 12)
D) Fuel lines kinked
D) Check and straighten fuel lines
E) Defective fuel tank
E) Replace fuel tank
A) Failed and/or wrong type of glow plug
A) Replace with new recommended glow plug (Page 15)
B) Old and/or wrong type fuel
B) Replace with new recommended fuel (Page 15)
C) High speed needle valve too rich
C) Adjust high speed needle valve leaner (Page 16)
D) Low speed needle valve too lean
D) Adjust low speed needle valve richer (Page 16)
E) Low speed needle valve too rich
E) Adjust low speed needle valve leaner (Page 16)
F) Air leak in fuel system and/or engine
F) Replace fuel tubing and/or tighten all engine bolts
A) Engine running too lean
A) Adjust high speed needle valve richer (Page 16)
B) Wrong type of fuel used
B) Replace with new recommended fuel (Page 15)
C) Engine not fully broken in
C) Allow engine further break-in time (Page 15)
Engine vibrates excessively
A) Engine and/or engine mounts loose
A) Tighten all engine and engine mounting bolts
Engine does not idle down
A) Idle stop screw out of adjustment
A) Adjust idle stop screw to factory setting (Page 12)
B) Engine has developed an air leak
B) Check and tighten all engine screws
C) Carburettor O-ring(s) damaged
C) Replace carburettor O-ring(s)
D) High speed needle valve too lean
D) Adjust high speed needle valve richer (Page 16)
A) One-way bearing coated with oil
A) Clean one-way bearing (Page 15)
B) Fuel used has too much oil content
B) Use fuel with 10% ~ 14% oil content (Page 15)
C) One-way bearing shaft is worn
C) Replace one-way bearing shaft
Engine does not draw fuel
Engine does not transition
Engine overheats
Pull-starter slips
THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY LEFT BLANK
Page 32
ExPLODED vIEW ASSEmbLY DRAWINGS
STEP 1: FRONT, REAR AND CENTRE DIFFERENTIALS
149891
149893
(149899) O-Ring 3 x 1mm -- 12
(149895) Pin 2.5 x 12.8mm -- 6
149899
149899
(149895) Pin 4 x 26.6mm -- 6
148602 148623
149895
149563
149563
148602
148602
148602
148623
149895
149895
149895
149895
149897
SUB-1
(43T)
149905
149277
(48T)
149905
149895
differential oil
differential oil
149895
SUB-1
149895
149895
149895
149895
for front and rear (x2)
for centre (x1)
(148570) Grub Screw w/Threadlock 4 x 4mm -- 3
148570
149563
(148602) Flat Head Tapping Screw 3 x 16mm -- 12
149899
(148623) Shim 8 x 12 x 0.4mm -- 3
149893
149891
(149563) Ball Bearing 8 x 16 x 5mm -- 6
for centre (x1)
STEP 2: FRONT AND REAR DIFFERENTIAL PINION GEARS
148624
(148624) Shim 8 x 12 x 0.2mm -- 2
149563
149898
(13T)
Page 33
STEP 3: FRONT AND REAR DIFFERENTIAL HOUSINGS
148593
(148593) Round Head Tapping Screw 2 x 10mm -- 8
149778
STep 1
148593
STep 2
148572
149918
149563
149317
finished
STEP 4: FRONT GEARBOX
(148583) Button Head Tapping Screw 3 x 38mm -- 2
149911
148675
STep 3
148583
149911
Page 34
STEP 5: FRONT SHOCK TOWER
(148506) Cap Screw 3 x 16mm -- 4
(148558) Lock Nut 3mm -- 4
148558
(148511) Cap Screw 3 x 25mm -- 2
148558
SUB-5
148576
STep 4
148676
148511
148506
148671
149307
148506
SUB-5
STEP 6: FRONT AXLES AND STEERING KNUCKLES
(149506) Pin 2.5 x 13.8mm -- 2
(148624) Shim 8 x 12 x 0.2mm -- 2
(149305) Pin 2.5 x 16.8mm -- 2
149305
149563
148574
149305
148566
149506
149506
148624
149343
149563
149505
149505
148566
finished
for right and left sides (x2)
Page 35
STEP 7: FRONT SUSPENSION ARMS
(148567) Grub Screw 4 x 10mm -- 2
(149491) Turnbuckle 5 x 25mm -- 2
148707
148692
149491
8.8mm
148567
148707
148692
148706
STEP 8: FRONT SUSPENSION ARMS, AXLES AND HUBS
(148613) Button Head Screw w/Threadlock 4 x 20mm -- 2
STep 7L
148613
for left side
148613
STep 7R
STep 6L
148695
148695
STep 6R
STep 7L
148613
for right side
148613
STep 7R
Page 36
STEP 9: FRONT SUSPENSION
(148558) Lock Nut 3mm -- 2
(149901) Hinge Pin 4 x 67.5mm -- 2
(148648) Cap Screw 3 x 45mm -- 2
STep 5
149915
(0º)
right side
148584
STep 8R
148558
148648
148674
left side
148615
149901
STep 8L
STEP 10: REAR GEARBOX
(148559) Lock Nut 4mm -- 1
(148507) Cap Screw 4 x 50mm -- 1
148583
149907
149911
148507
149911
STep 3
148615
148693
148559
148674
Page 37
STEP 11: WING MOUNT
148581
(149271) Post 6 x 32mm -- 2
149271
149271
149271
149271
149271
148581
STEP 12: REAR SHOCK TOWER
(148558) Lock Nut 3mm -- 4
(148649) Cap Screw 4 x 45mm -- 1
(148559) Lock Nut 4mm -- 1
(148511) Cap Screw 3 x 25mm -- 6
STep 11
148511
148559
SUB-12
148649
148558
149307
148558
148576
148511
STep 10
SUB-12
Page 38
148677
148694
STEP 13: REAR HUBS
149301
149483
(149305) Pin 2.5 x 16.8mm -- 2
149563
for left side
149563
149305
149483
(148624) Shim 8 x 12 x 0.2mm -- 2
148624
148574
149305
for right side
STEP 14: REAR SUSPENSION ARMS AND HUBS
(148558) Lock Nut 3mm -- 4
(148533) Button Head Screw 3 x 25mm -- 2
(148567) Grub Screw 4 x 10mm -- 2
(149381) Hub Stud 43.5mm -- 2
(149493) Turnbuckle 5 x 36mm -- 2
149543
149493
149497
149497
13.2mm
149543
SUB-14
SUB-14
for left side
148533
148558
finished
148567
STep 13
149381
149291
148558
for right side
Page 39
STEP 15: REAR SUSPENSION
(149901) Hinge Pin 4 x 67.5mm -- 2
(148560) Flanged Lock Nut 3mm -- 2
(148509) Cap Screw 3 x 20mm -- 2
148584
STep 12
STep 14R
right side
149915
(2º)
148509
148560
149901
STep 14L
150036
left side
STEP 16: REAR SWAY BAR
(148542) Flat Head Screw 3 x 20mm -- 2
(149293) Threaded Stud 3 x 12mm -- 2
148566
148570
148601
SUB-16
148601
right side
149293
149293
(2.8mm)
148542
149293
STep 15
149293
149293
SUB-16
149293
for right
and left sides (x2)
left side
SUB-16
149293
Page 40
STEP 17: FRONT CHASSIS BRACE
(148559) Lock Nut 4mm -- 1
(148507) Cap Screw 4 x 50mm -- 1
148559
right side
148697
STep 9
left side
148578
148507
STEP 18: CHASSIS SIDE GUARDS
148680
148676
148680
148689
148676
148688
148680
148680
148676
148601
for right side
148676
148601
148601
148601
148601
for left side
148601
Page 41
STEP 19: CHASSIS
(148558) Lock Nut 3mm -- 8
(148548) Flat Head Screw w/Threadlock 4 x 10mm -- 6
148558
149478
right side
148558
STep 18 R
148558
149455
149455
148539
148558
148690
148539
148548
STep 18L
148558
148548
left side
148548
148539
148548
148548
148548
STEP 20: STEERING TIE-RODS
148670
149549
(149331) Turnbuckle 4 x 48mm -- 2
149331
149549
148670
30.5mm
Page 42
STEP 21: SERVO SAVER AND STEERING LINKAGES
(148558) Lock Nut 3mm -- 4
(149559) Flanged Ball Bearing 5 x 8 x 2.5mm -- 2
(149457) Servo Saver Screw 3 x 19.7mm -- 2
149567
(148509) Cap Screw 3 x 20mm -- 2
149455
(149567) Bushing 6 x 10 x 3mm -- 4
149567
149453
149453
(148625) Shim 8 x 12 x 0.8mm -- 2
for right side
149453
149455
149455
149567
for left side
149457
SUB-21
148558
149559
148691
149567
149457
149559
148558
148625
right side
148625
SUB-21
SUB-21
STep 20
left side
148509
148558
STep 20
148558
148509
Page 43
STEP 22: RADIO TRAY
(149254) Round Head Screw 2 x 15mm -- 1
148576
149254
148698
149884
149319
5 CeLL BATTeRY
(NOT INCLUDeD)
149884
148576
SeRVO
ST-CH1
148576
SUB-22
148576
148576
148576
148576
149254
SeRVO
149254
TH-CH2
INCLUDeD
W/SWITCH
ReCeIVeR
149254
SUB-22
SWITCH
Page 44
STEP 23: BRAKES AND CENTRE DIFFERENTIAL
(149284) Brake Pin 3 x 10mm -- 4
(148889) Ball Bearing 3 x 6 x 2.5mm -- 2
148576
149474
149328
148889
rear
149328
SUB-23B
148889
SUB-23A
STep 1
front
149284
149284
149284
149284
149284
148699
149284
149284
149284
148699
149284
SUB-23A
149469
SUB-23B
Page 45
149469
STEP 24: FRONT AND REAR SHOCKS
(149840) Shock Shaft 3.5 x 52mm -- 2
(149840 / 149841) Lock Nut 2.6mm -- 4
(149841) Shock Shaft 3.5 x 61mm -- 2
(149840 / 149841) Washer 2.5 x 5.9 x 0.5mm -- 4
(149840 / 149841) O-Ring 2.5 x 1mm -- 4
(148660) Shock Body 14 x 45mm -- 2
(149850) O-Ring 3mm -- 4
(148661) Shock Body 14 x 53mm -- 2
(149850) O-Ring 3.5mm -- 8
(149899) O-Ring 3 x 1mm -- 4
(148660 / 148661) O-Ring 12.4 x 1.78mm -- 4
149840
149840
149840
3.5mm 3.5mm
149840
3 x 1mm 3.0mm
149840
148660
for front (x2)
149850
for front
and rear (x4)
148660
149899
149850
149942
149841
148660
148661
149850
148660
148660
148661
149841
149841
149841
149841
148661
one 3mm o-ring is Installed Between two
3.5mm o-rings and one 3 x 1mm o-ring is
Installed at the Base to Improve the seal.
149850
148661
for rear (x2)
149899
149850
149942
149850
148661
3.5mm 3.5mm
3 x 1mm 3.0mm
Page 46
STEP 25: SHOCK OIL
149850
silicone shock oil
(Not Included)
148660
148661
After filling with
shock oil, gENtly
Pump shaft up
and down several
times to Eliminate
Air Bubbles.
STep 24
STEP 26: SHOCK SPRINGS
(148672) Shock Spring 58 x 1.6mm (Silver) -- 2
(148673) Shock Spring 80.5 x 1.6mm (Silver) -- 2
STep 25
for front (x2)
STep 25
149312
149850
148672
149312
149850
for rear (x2)
148673
Page 47
STEP 27: FRONT SHOCK MOUNTING
right side
149347
148560
STep 26F
STep 17
148542
left side
STEP 28: REAR SHOCK MOUNTING
left side
149347
148560
right side
STep 26R
148542
Page 48
STep 16
STEP 29: RADIO TRAY MOUNTING
STep 22
STep 19
148600
148600
148600
148600
148600
Page 49
STEP 30: CENTRE DIFFERENTIAL MOUNTING
(148527) Button Head Machine Screw 3 x 12mm -- 2
148527
(148558) Lock Nut 3mm -- 2
148527
STep 23
STep 29
148558
148558
148607
Page 50
STEP 31: FRONT SUSPENSION MOUNTING
148772
SUB-31
STep 27
SUB-31
148696
STep 30
148607
148598
148598
Page 51
STEP 32: STEERING LINKAGE MOUNTING
(148621) Shim 6 x 9.8 x 0.1mm -- 2
(148554) Washer Head Screw w/Threadlock 4 x 10mm -- 2
(148558) Lock Nut 3mm -- 2
148579
148558
148554
148703
148627
148621
STep 21
148627
STep 31
148659
148659
Page 52
STEP 33: REAR SUSPENSION MOUNTING
(148558) Lock Nut 3mm -- 1
STep 28
148558
149501
STep 32
148598
148598
148542
Page 53
STEP 34: ENGINE AND CLUTCH
(148558) Lock Nut 3mm -- 4
(149414) Shim 5 x 8 x 0.2mm -- 2
(149414) Shim 5 x 8 x 0.4mm -- 1
(149414) Washer 5 x 8 x 1mm -- 1
(148506) Cap Screw 3 x 16mm -- 4
148506
146031
149530
148506
149408
148334
148558
149580
149414
0.2mm
149925
149414
149408
149414
0.2mm
149560
149414
1.0mm
149408
149560
148502
149925
148558
149414
0.4mm
(148334) Collet for SG Shaft
(149414) Engine Nut for SG Shaft
Page 54
STEP 35: EXHAUST HEADER
145826
148346
149577
149577
STep 34
STEP 36: AIR FILTER
149409
SUB-36
149409
STep 35
149571
Air filter oil
(Not Included)
148600
149409
149409
149411
SUB-36
Page 55
STEP 37: ENGINE MOUNTING
(148514) Button Head Screw w/Threadlock 5 x 10mm -- 4
STep 36
for Information About Adjusting
the gear mesh, see Page 23.
STep 33
148514
Page 56
148514
STEP 38: STEERING LINKAGE
(148558) Lock Nut 3mm -- 1
(148508) Cap Screw 3 x 18mm -- 1
(149333) Threaded Stud 3 x 16mm -- 1
148527
SUB-38
149333
149312
148558
148670
149333
SeRVO ARm
(INCLUDeD WITH SeRVO)
149333
148508
STep 37
SUB-38
centre steering servo Prior
to Installing servo horn.
ReTAININg SCReW
148560
Page 57
STEP 39: THROTTLE AND BRAKE LINKAGES
(149326) Spring 18mm -- 1
(149326) Spring 8.3mm -- 2
148566
60mm
149553
149555
149553
149326
149326
149555
24mm
15mm
SUB-39A
148578
SUB-39B
SUB-39A
SeRVO ARm
148566
148566
80mm
149326
149553
148566
149326
149326
149553
149553
149326
149326
SUB-39B
Page 58
STEP 40: THROTTLE AND BRAKE LINKAGE MOUNTING
148566
ReTAININg SCReW
STep 39
STep 38
centre steering servo Prior
to Installing servo horn.
10mm
32mm
Page 59
STEP 41: FUEL TANK
(148550) Washer Head Screw w/Threadlock 3 x 10mm -- 2
(149467) Post 6 x 32mm -- 2
(148620) Washer 3 x 8 x 1mm -- 2
148550
SILICONe TUBINg
6mm
149440
SILICONe TUBINg
148620
148620
149467
149467
SILICONe TUBINg
50mm
STep 40
148546
148546
Page 60
STEP 42: TUNED PIPE
148527
STep 41
149717
149326
149717
148560
145825
148574
Page 61
STEP 43: RECEIVER, SERVO AND BATTERY CONNECTIONS
THROTTLe/BRAKe SeRVO
5 CeLL BATTeRY
ReCeIVeR
CH1
CH2
ReD (pOSITIVe)
BATT
WHITe (SIgNAL)
BLACK (NegATIVe)
SWITCH
CH 1
CH 2
CH 3
BATT
STeeRINg SeRVO
STEP 44: ANTENNA SUPPORT TUBE
ANTeNNA SUppORT TUBe
slide the receiver Antenna through the Antenna
support tube, then Push the Antenna support
tube down through the hole in the chassis
cross-Brace and Into the mounting hole in the
radio tray Below It.
TLE/BRAKE SERVO
ANTeNNA WIRe
do Not cut the Antenna wire shorter. Allow any
Excess Antenna wire to hang out Beyond the
End of the Antenna support tube.
Page 62
STEP 45: THROTTLE AND BRAKE LINKAGE ADJUSTMENT
high throttle
full Brake
Idle throttle
STEP 46: FUEL PICK-UP AND PRESSURE TUBING
FUeL pICK-Up TUBINg
FUeL pReSSURe TUBINg
STep 45
Page 63
STEP 47: ROOF PLATE MOUNTS
148546
148546
148546
right side
148546
148684
148684
148678
left side
148678
STEP 48: REAR CENTRE ROLL BAR
148582
SUB -48
148582
STep 47
148679
148582
148582
148686
148679
SUB-48
Page 64
STEP 49: FRONT CENTRE ROLL BAR
(148505) Cap Screw w/Threadlock 3 x 10mm -- 2
148582
148677
148677
148682
148677
STep 48
148505
148677
SUB-49
148505
SUB-49
STEP 50: ROOF PLATE
148576
148576
148681
STep 49
Page 65
STEP 51: ROLL BAR POSTS
148582
STep 50
right side
148685
148582
left side
148687
148683
148582
Page 66
STEP 52: ROLL BAR MOUNTING
(148558) Lock Nut 3mm -- 2
148582
148582
STep 51
148558
148582
148582
148558
148582
right side
STep 46
left side
Page 67
STEP 53: TYRES AND WHEELS
INSIDe
OUTSIDe
C/A TYRe gLUe
148665
(NOT INCLUDeD)
148664
Apply c/A tyre glue
to Both sides of the
tyre/wheel. It's Important
that the tyre is securely
Affixed to the wheel.
148665
STEP 54: WHEEL RINGS
STep 53
148502
148710
148502
Page 68
STEP 55: WHEEL, BODY SHELL AND WING MOUNTING
(149303) Wheel Nut 17mm -- 4
149319
149319
148723
149319
149319
149319
149321
149554
149303
STep 54
right side
left side
STep 52
149303
STep 54
Page 69
REPLACEmENT PARTS LIST
We stock a complete set of replacement parts for your Nitro Rail Off-Road Buggy. The replacement parts that are available, along
with their respective part numbers for easy ordering convenience, are illustrated in this section.
When it comes time to order replacement parts, we recommend ordering directly from your local hobby retailer.
If your hobby retailer does not stock XTM Racing products, please contact your regional distributor
for a local dealer, using the Customer Service Information on page 3.
thE oPtIoN PArts lIst cAN BE fouNd oN PAgEs 76 ~ 84.
Black
145825
2-Chamber Tuned Pipe
Qty. 10
Black
Qty. 10
148621
Servo Saver Shims 6x9.8x0.1mm
Qty. 10
148623
Differential Shims 8x12x0.4mm
L=45mm
Front or Rear
Qty. 2
4mm/6061
148671
Shock Tower - Front
Qty. 2
1.6mm/Silver/L=108mm
148625
Qty. 2
1.6mm/Silver/L=125mm
148661
148662
148663
Shock Body Set - Rear
Shock Assemblies - Front
Shock Assemblies - Rear
Front or Rear
148665
Desert Tyres with Inserts
148664
6-Shot Wheels - Black
Qty. 2
148334
Collet for Flywheel
Qty. 10
148624
L=53mm
148660
Shock Body Set - Front
Qty. 2
146031
XTM Racing .28 Nitro Engine
145826
Exhaust Header, Spring & Gasket
Qty. 2
Front or Rear
148666
Desert Tyres on 6-Shot Wheels - Black
1.6mm/Silver/L=58mm
Qty. 2
148672
Shock Springs - Front
1.6mm/Silver/L=80.5mm
148673
Shock Springs - Rear
Page 70
Qty. 4
148670
Balls - Flanged 7x3mm - Steel
Front or Rear/3mm/6061
148674
Suspension Plate - Lower
3mm/6061
Qty. 2
148675
Suspension Plate - Upper Front
148677
Roll Bar Stopper Set
148676
Body Mount Set
Qty. 2
L=56.8mm
Qty. 2
148681
Roof Plate
148680
Roll Bar Mount Set
Qty. 2
148683
Roll Bars - Centre Side
L=274mm
L=80mm
3mm/6061
148691
Servo Saver Steering Plate
Qty. 2
148684
Roll Bars - Main
148682
Roll Bar - Front Centre
L=40.2mm
148685
Roll Bars - Rear Upper
2mm/6061
148687
Roll Bars - Rear Side
Qty. 2
L=130mm
2mm/6061
148679
Roll Bar Connectors
Qty. 2
148678
Roof Plate Mounts
148686
Roll Bar - Rear Centre
2mm/6061
148689
Side Guard - Right
148688
Side Guard - Left
L=89mm
3mm/6061
148690
Chassis
Qty. 10
4mm/6061
148693
Chassis Brace - Rear
148692
Balls 4x10mm - Steel
148694
Shock Tower - Rear
Right and Left
148695
Hub Carriers - Front
2mm/6061
148697
Chassis Brace - Front
148696
Bumper - Front
Page 71
148698
Radio Plate
Qty. 2
3mm/6061
Qty. 2
Front or Rear
148710
Wheel Rings - Silver Aluminium
Qty. 2
148703
Servo Saver Support Plate
148699
Centre Differential Mounts
Qty. 2
148706
Suspension Arms - Lower Front
Red/Carbon
Qty. 2
L=117mm
148707
Suspension Arms - Upper Front
Qty. 2
148723
Body Shell - Printed with Decals
148772
Dog Bones - Centre Front
148889
Ball Bearings 3x6x2.5mm
148891
Differential Assembly - Front or Rear
149254
Radio Tray
149271
Wing Mount Set
48T Spur Gear
148890
Differential Assembly - Centre
Qty. 2
149277
Spur Gear - 48T
Qty. 2
149284
Brake Pads and Calipers Set
L=43mm
149301
Wheel Shafts - Rear
Qty. 4
Qty. 4
149293
Sway Bar Set
149291
Suspension Arms - Lower Rear
17mm/Silver
17mm/Silver
149303
Wheel Nuts - Front and Rear
Qty. 2
149312
Balls 6.9x4.9mm - Steel
2.8mm
Qty. 4
149307
Shock Mounting Studs
149305
Hex Hubs - Front or Rear
Qty. 10
149317
Pinion Output Joints
L=27mm
149319
Body Clips - Type 'R'
Page 72
L=14.2mm
Qty. 5
L=80mm
149321
Body Clips - Type 'R'
Includes Tuned Pipe Mount
L=48mm
149328
Brake Cam
149326
Throttle and Brake Linkage Set
149331
Steering Tie-Rod Set - 4mm
Qty. 2
Qty. 4
149343
Steering Knuckles
L=43.5mm
149333
Steering Servo Rod Set
Qty. 3
1.0mm
149381
Hub Studs - Rear
149408
Clutch Shoes and Springs
149414
Clutch Nut Set for 3-Shoe Clutch
149440
Fuel Tank Assembly - 125cc
149347
Shock Spring Spacer Bushing Set
Qty. 2
149409
Air Filter Assembly
149411
Air Filter Elements (Sponges)
L=32mm
149453
Servo Saver Plastic Parts
149457
149455
Servo Saver Metal Parts
3mm/6061
149469
Brake Disc
Qty. 2
Qty. 2
L=25mm
Qty. 2
4mm/6061
149478
Engine Mount Spacers
149474
Main Gear Plate
149491
Turnbuckles 5mm - Upper Front
149467
Fuel Tank Mounting Post
Servo Saver Screw Set
L=36mm
Qty. 4
149493
Turnbuckles 5mm - Upper Rear
149497
Suspension Arms - Upper Rear
Page 73
Qty. 2
149483
Rear Hubs - Right and Left
Qty. 2
L=97.8mm
149501
Dog Bones - Centre Rear
Qty. 2
L=125mm
149505
CVD Universal Joints - Front
Qty. 2
Yellow
Diameter=39mm
149530
Flywheel - 3-Pin
149506
CVD Universal Joint Rebuild Kit
Qty. 4
L=22.5mm
149543
Balls 7x3mm - Steel
Qty. 4
149549
Steering Ball Link Ends
149545
Silicone Switch Covers
Qty. 4
149552
149553
3-Shoe Clutch Kit w/1.0mm Springs
Rod Stopper Set
Qty. 2
149554
High-Downforce Wing - Black
149555
Plastic Parts Set
149560
Ball Bearing 5x10x4mm
149559
Flanged Ball Bearings 5x8x2.5mm
Qty. 4
149563
Steel
149567
Bushings 6x10x3mm
149577
149580
Exhaust Header Spring with Gasket
Clutch Bell - 14T
3.5mm Shaft/L=52mm
149717
Exhaust Coupler - Yellow
149841
Shock Shaft Set - Rear
149840
Shock Shaft Set - Front
149778
Differential Cover - Aluminium
Qty. 2
149850
Shock Rebuild Kit for 3.5mm Shafts
3.5mm Shaft/L=61mm
149884
Steering Servo Mount Set
Qty. 2
149891
Brake Output Joints
Page 74
L=36mm
149893
Differential Output Joints
Straight Cut/Use with 149898
149895
Differential Assembly - Bevel Type
Qty. 4
L=67.5mm
149897
Differential Ring Gear - 43T
For Differential
Output Shafts and Shocks
149899
O-Rings - 3x1mm
149907
Wing Mount Stabiliser Rod
149911
Gearbox Halves - Front or Rear
Qty. 5
0º ~ 3º
149915
Upper Suspension Holders
Qty. 10
149898
Differential Pinion Gear - 13T
149905
Gaskets for Differentials
149901
Hinge Pins - Lower
Qty. 2
Straight Cut/Use with 149897
with Aluminium Cover
Qty. 2
Qty. 4
149925
Engine Mounts
149918
Differential Housing Assembly
L=22.5mm
149942
Ball Ends - 3.5mm for 7mm Ball
L=93mm
150036
Dog Bones - Rear
Xtm PArt NumBEr
dEscrIPtIoN
rEPlAcEmENt QuANtIty
148566
Grub Screw with Threadlock 3 x 3mm
Qty. 5
148570
Qty. 10
148567
Grub Screw 4 x 10mm
Qty. 10
148572
Qty. 5
148574
Qty. 5
148502
Button Head Hex Screw 3 x 6mm
Qty. 10
148527
Button Head Screw 3 x 12mm
Qty. 10
148627
Button Head Hex Screw with Threadlock 3 x 20mm
Qty. 10
148659
Button Head Hex Screw 3 x 22mm
Qty. 10
148533
Button Head Screw 3 x 25mm
Qty. 10
148613
Button Head Hex Screw with Threadlock 4 x 20mm
Qty. 5
148514
Button Head Screw with Threadlock 5 x 10mm
Qty. 5
148593
Round Head Tapping Screw 2 x 10mm
Qty. 10
148546
Flat Head Screw with Threadlock 3 x 8mm
Qty. 5
148539
Flat Head Screw 3 x 10mm
Qty. 10
Page 75
Xtm PArt NumBEr
dEscrIPtIoN
rEPlAcEmENt QuANtIty
148542
Flat Head Screw 3 x 20mm
Qty. 10
148548
Flat Head Screw with Threadlock 4 x 10mm
Qty. 5
148550
Washer Head Screw with Threadlock 3 x 10mm
Qty. 5
148554
Washer Head Screw with Threadlock 4 x 10mm
Qty. 5
148600
Flat Head Tapping Screw 3 x 10mm
Qty. 10
148601
Qty. 10
148602
Qty. 10
148607
Qty. 10
148598
Qty. 10
148582
Button Head Tapping Screw 3 x 8mm
Qty. 10
148576
Qty. 10
148578
Qty. 10
148579
Qty. 10
148581
Qty. 10
148583
Qty. 10
148615
Qty. 10
148584
Qty. 10
148505
Cap Screw with Threadlock 3 x 10mm
Qty. 10
148506
Cap Screw 3 x 16mm
Qty. 10
148508
Cap Screw 3 x 18mm
Qty. 10
148509
Cap Screw 3 x 20mm
Qty. 10
148511
Cap Screw 3 x 25mm
Qty. 10
148648
Cap Screw 3 x 45mm
Qty. 5
148649
Cap Screw 4 x 45mm
Qty. 5
148507
Cap Screw 4 x 50mm
Qty. 5
148558
Lock Nut 3mm
Qty. 10
148559
Lock Nut 4mm
Qty. 10
148560
Flanged Lock Nut 3mm
Qty. 5
148620
Washer 3 x 8 x 1mm
Qty. 10
OPTION PARTS LIST
We stock many option parts for your Nitro Rail Off-Road Buggy. The option parts that are available, along with their respective part
numbers for easy ordering convenience, are illustrated in this section. More option parts are being added, so don't forget to check
websites for details.
When it comes time to order option parts, we recommend ordering directly from your local hobby retailer.
If your hobby retailer does not stock XTM Racing products, please contact your regional distributor
for a local dealer, using the Customer Service Information on page 3.
n 2-Speed Transmission (Improves Acceleration and Top Speed)
Replacement Part for 149825
149825
2-Speed Transmission - Complete
149300
2-Speed Main Gear Shaft
149661
2-Speed Clutch Housing
Page 76
149663
2-Speed One-Way Mount
OPTION PARTS LIST
n 2-Speed Transmission (Improves Acceleration and Top Speed), Continued....
12T/17T
Option Part for 149825
149666
2-Speed Clutch
149797
2-Speed Clutch Bell with Gears
Replacement Part for 149825/Use with 149810
149810
2-Speed Clutch Bell w/o Pinion Gears
149814
Pinion Gear - 14T (First Gear)
149819
Pinion Gear - 19T (Second Gear)
149827
2-Speed Spur Gear - 50T
149798
2-Speed Clutch Bell for 12T/17T
Option Part for 149825/Use with 149810
149815
149820
Qty. 2
Use with 149798
Use with 149799
149821
149562
Flanged Ball Bearing 8x12x3.5mm
149799
2-Speed Pinion Gear - 12T/17T
149816
149826
2-Speed Spur Gear - 45T
149560
150009
Ball Bearing 5x8x2.5mm
146812
Silicone Differential Oil - 50K Wt.
146813
n 100% Silcone Oils (For Tuning Differentials and Shocks)
146810
146811
Page 77
OPTION PARTS LIST
n 100% Silcone Oils (For Tuning Differentials and Shocks), Continued....
146814
146815
149570
Silicone Shock Oil - 200Wt.
n Silicone Parts (Protects Against Moisture, Dust and Dirt)
Qty. 4
Qty. 4
Qty. 4
149538
CVD Dust Boots - Black
149355
Dust Boots for Shock Shafts
149544
Switch Covers - Blue
149541
Switch Covers - Red and Yellow
Qty. 4
Qty. 4
Qty. 2
Qty. 2
149539
CVD Dust Boots - Blue
149746
Shock Bump Stops - Yellow/60Lbs.
149747
Shock Bump Stops - Blue/40Lbs.
n Shock Absorbers and Shock Absorber Springs (Affects Ride Quality and Handling)
1.4mm, 1.5mm, 1.6mm & 1.7mm/L=58mm
149318
Shock Spring Set - Front (4 Pair)
Qty. 2
1.5mm/White/L=58mm
149352
1.4mm, 1.5mm, 1.6mm & 1.7mm/L=80.5mm
Qty. 2
149320
Shock Spring Set - Rear (4 Pair)
Qty. 2
1.7mm/Black/L=58mm
Qty. 2
149349
1.4mm/Blue/L=58mm
Qty. 2
149354
1.3mm/Red/L=58mm
149356
Page 78
1.6mm/Yellow/L=58mm
149350
Qty. 2
1.6mm/Yellow/L=80.5mm
149363
OPTION PARTS LIST
n Shock Absorbers and Shock Absorber Springs (Affects Ride Quality and Handling), Continued....
Qty. 2
1.7mm/Black/L=80.5mm
Qty. 2
149364
Qty. 2
1.5mm/White/L=108mm
150100
Large Bore Shock Assemblies - Front
1.5mm/White/L=80.5mm
Qty. 2
149366
Qty. 2
1.4mm/Blue/L=80.5mm
Qty. 2
149370
1.3mm/Red/L=80.5mm
149372
1.5mm/White/L=125mm
150101
Large Bore Shock Assemblies - Rear
n Wheels, Tyres, Hex Hubs and Wheel Nuts (Affects Handling and Appearance)
Qty. 2
Front or Rear
Qty. 2
Front or Rear
Qty. 2
Front or Rear
Qty. 2
Front or Rear
148711
148712
148713
148714
Wheel Rings - Blue Aluminium
Wheel Rings - Green Aluminium
Wheel Rings - Red Aluminium
6-Shot Wheels - Light Silver
Qty. 2
Front or Rear
148715
6-Shot Wheels - Smoke Silver
Qty. 2
Front or Rear
148733
Wheel Rings - Gold Aluminium
Qty. 2
Front or Rear
148716
Sand Paddle Tyres with Inserts
Qty. 4
Qty. 2
Front or Rear/Black
Qty. 2
Front or Rear
148722
148732
Sand Paddle Tyres on 6-Shot Wheels Wheel Rings - Smoke Silver Aluminium
Qty. 2
149259
Wheel Nuts - 17mm/Black
17mm/Black
149261
Page 79
Qty. 4
149304
Wheel Nuts - 17mm/Blue
OPTION PARTS LIST
n Wheels, Tyres, Hex Hubs and Wheel Nuts (Affects Handling and Appearance), Continued....
Qty. 2
17mm/Blue
149306
Qty. 2
Front or Rear
Qty. 4
Qty. 2
149867
Phenyx Tyres with Inserts
Qty. 2
Front or Rear
150051
Rally Cross Tyres with Inserts
Qty. 2
Front or Rear
Qty. 2
Front or Rear
Qty. 2
Front or Rear/Satin Chrome
Qty. 2
Front or Rear
150106
Closed-End Wheel Nuts - Silver
Qty. 4
Front or Rear
149600
Nylon Washer for Locking Wheel Nuts
Qty. 2
Qty. 2
Front or Rear
150059
Clawz Wheels - Satin Chrome
Front or Rear
150050
Blade Wheels - Satin Chrome
Qty. 2
150053
Blade Wheels - Black
150058
Clawz Wheels - Black
17mm
Front or Rear
149869
Dish Wheels - White
150052
Rally Cross Tyres on Blade Wheels
Qty. 2
Qty. 8
149599
Locking Wheel Nuts - 17mm/Black
149868
Dish Wheels - Black
150057
Clawz Wheels - White
Qty. 4
Qty. 4
149598
Locking Wheel Nuts - 17mm/Blue
Front or Rear
150054
Blade Wheels - White
Qty. 2
Front or Rear
150060
Road Trax Tyres with Inserts
17mm
150107
Closed-End Wheel Nuts - Black
THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY LEFT BLANK
MORE OPTION PARTS ON NEXT PAGE
Page 80
OPTION PARTS LIST
n Aluminium, Hardened (7075) Aluminium and Titanium (Improves Durability and Appearance)
Replaces 148693
Qty. 2
148719
Aluminium Chassis Brace - Rear
Front or Rear
Replaces 148674
149400
Lower Suspension Plate (7075)
Qty. 2
Replaces 149491/L=25mm
149492
Titanium Turnbuckles - Front
Replaces 149915
149992
Suspension Holder - 2º (7075) - Rear
Replaces 149343
3mm/6061/Black/Replaces 148675
149275
Upper Suspension Plate - Front
149268
Steering Knuckles (7075)
Replaces 148691
Replaces 149453
149458
Steering Plate - 4mm (7075)
149454
Servo Saver (7075) w/Bearings
Qty. 2
Replaces 148671
149591
Shock Tower - 5mm (7075) - Front
149494
Titanium Turnbuckles - Rear
Replaces 149915
Front or Rear
149993
Suspension Holder - 3º (7075) - Rear
149994
Suspension Holder Support (7075)
Qty. 2
149332
Titanium Steering Tie-Rods
Qty. 2
Replaces 149483
149484
Rear Hubs (7075)
Replaces 149915
149991
Suspension Holder (7075) - Front
n Engine Accessories and Gearing (Affects Power and Acceleration)
Qty. 3
Use with 148752,
148753 or 148753 Springs
148750
Aluminium Clutch Shoes
For Regular Shaft
Qty. 2
149407
Clutch Nut Assembly
For Wet/Dusty Conditions
149412
Prefilter Sleeves
Page 81
Use Flanged Ball Bearing 149559
149525
Clutch Bell - 13T
OPTION PARTS LIST
n Engine Accessories and Gearing (Affects Power and Acceleration), Continued....
Replaces 149277
149550
Spur Gear - 46T
Use Ball Bearing 149560 (x2)
149582
Clutch Bell - 16T (Single Speed)
Use with 150016
150011
Exhaust Header - One Piece
149546
Fuel Filter
149571
Air Filter Oil
149583
149584
Use with 150011
Qty. 3
149581
Replaces 149717
149718
Exhaust Coupler - Blue
Use with 150011 and 150016
150016
Tuned Pipe - One Piece
150017
Tuned Pipe Retainer Springs
145890
Sure Start Electric Starter
146077
Electronic Throttle Failsafe
148709
Body Shell - Printed with Decals
149520
Bi-Level Wing - White
149521
Bi-Level Wing - Yellow
n General Options and Tools
Qty. 5
Green/Carbon
145500
Micro Racing Cones
1.5mm, 2.0mm, 2.5mm & 3.0mm
148727
Body Shell - Clear w/Decals
149187
Metric Hex Wrench Set
Page 82
OPTION PARTS LIST
n General Options and Tools, Continued....
Qty. 4
149522
Bi-Level Wing - Black
149556
High-Downforce Wing - White
Qty. 10
149959
Clutch Tool for Leading Edge Shoes
Qty. 2
149558
High-Downforce Wing - Yellow
Use with Aluminium Ball Ends
Qty. 2
150019
Foam Dust Pads
For 3.5mm Shock Shafts
150020
Aluminium Ball Ends
L=25.5mm
149909
Ball Ends - 3.5mm for 7mm Ball
Qty. 2
4mm Reverse Thread
150021
Aluminium Ball Ends w/Mounts
4mm Thread
150022
Aluminium Ball Ends w/Mounts
n Anodised Aluminium Side Guard and Roll Cage Options (Changes Appearance)
2mm/6061
150061
Side Guard - Right (Blue)
150063
Side Guard - Left (Blue)
150062
Side Guard - Right (Gold)
150064
Side Guard - Left (Gold)
150070
Side Guard - Right (Red)
150074
Side Guard - Left (Red)
150071
Side Guard - Right (Green)
150075
Side Guard - Left (Green)
150072
Side Guard - Right (Smoke Silver)
2mm/6061
150065
Roll Bars - Rear Upper (Blue)
150067
Roll Bars - Rear Side (Blue)
150066
Roll Bars - Rear Upper (Gold)
150068
Roll Bars - Rear Side (Gold)
150078
Roll Bars - Rear Upper (Red)
150082
Roll Bars - Rear Side (Red)
150079
Roll Bars - Rear Upper (Green)
150083
Roll Bars - Rear Side (Green)
150080
Qty. 2
L=40.2mm
150076
Side Guard - Left (Smoke Silver)
Roll Bars - Rear Upper (Smoke Silver)
Qty. 2
Page 83
L=80mm
150084
Roll Bars - Rear Side (Smoke Silver)
OPTION PARTS LIST
n Anodised Aluminium Side Guard and Roll Cage Options (Changes Appearance), Continued....
150121
Roll Bars - Centre Side (Blue)
150123
Roll Bar - Front Centre (Blue)
150122
Roll Bars - Centre Side (Gold)
150124
Roll Bar - Front Centre (Gold)
150085
Roll Bars - Centre Side (Red)
150089
Roll Bar - Front Centre (Red)
150086
Roll Bars - Centre Side (Green)
150090
Roll Bar - Front Centre (Green)
150087
Qty. 2
L=56.8mm
L=89mm
2mm/6061
Qty. 2
6061 Aluminium
Roll Bars - Centre Side (Smoke Silver)
L=130mm
150125
Roll Bar - Rear Centre (Blue)
150127
Roll Bars - Main (Blue)
150126
Roll Bar - Rear Centre (Gold)
150128
Roll Bars - Main (Gold)
150092
Roll Bar - Rear Centre (Red)
150096
Roll Bars - Main (Red)
150093
Roll Bar - Rear Centre (Green)
150097
Roll Bars - Main (Green)
150094
Roll Bar - Rear Centre (Smoke Silver)
Qty. 2
L=274mm
150098
Roll Bars - Main (Smoke Silver)
150129
Roof Plate (Blue)
150140
Roll Bar Stopper Set (Blue)
150130
Roof Plate (Gold)
150141
Roll Bar Stopper Set (Gold)
150102
Roof Plate (Red)
150142
Roll Bar Stopper Set (Green)
150104
Roof Plate (Green)
150143
Roll Bar Stopper Set (Red)
150105
Roof Plate (Smoke Silver)
6061 Aluminium
150144
Roll Bar Stopper Set (Smoke Silver)
150146
Roof Plate Mounts (Blue)
150152
Roll Bar Connector Set (Blue)
150147
Roof Plate Mounts (Gold)
150153
Roll Bar Connector Set (Gold)
150148
Roof Plate Mounts (Green)
150154
Roll Bar Connector Set (Green)
150149
Roof Plate Mounts (Red)
150155
Roll Bar Connector Set (Red)
150150
Roof Plate Mounts (Smoke Silver)
150158
Roll Bar Mount Set (Blue)
150159
Roll Bar Mount Set (Gold)
150160
Roll Bar Mount Set (Green)
150161
Roll Bar Mount Set (Red)
6061 Aluminium
150091
Roll Bar - Front Centre (Smoke Silver)
150162
Roll Bar Mount Set (Smoke Silver)
Page 84
6061 Aluminium
150156
Roll Bar Connector Set (Smoke Silver)
NOTES
Page 85
NOTES
Page 86
RETURNING YOUR PRODUCT fOR WARRANTY REPAIR
Before returning your Nitro Rail Off-Road Buggy for warranty consideration, the status of the unit must be within the terms of the
Warranty Information as stated below. Do not return your model to the place of purchase. They are not authorised nor equipped to
perform warranty work on XTM Racing products. When requesting warranty service, please observe the following:
l
l
l
l
Crash damage will not be covered under warranty. Do not request warranty service for a crash-damaged product.
Always send your model complete with the transmitter. Please unplug and/or remove the batteries both from the transmitter and the
model before returning it. Please remove all fuel as applicable. We prefer to have the model complete so it can be thoroughly tested
before returning it to you.
Include a note detailing the problem or service you are requesting. Service cannot be provided without this information. Include your
daytime phone number, shipping address and/or Email address in the event we need more details pertaining to the service requested.
If your model is out of the warranty period you may request an estimate of services at the time you return it for service. An omission
of this request implies permission for Global Services/Ripmax Ltd. to service your model at our discretion.
l
Include a method of payment for any service charges.
l
Send the unit to us by United Parcel Service, Federal Express or by Insured Mail. Postage is nonrefundable. Send your package to:
In North America:
In Europe:
Global Services
18480 Bandilier Circle
Fountain Valley, CA 92708
Ripmax Ltd.
241 Green Street
Enfield, EN3 7SJ, U.K.
Phone: (714) 963-0329
Fax: (714) 964-6236
Email: service@globalhobby.net
Phone: (0) 20 8282 7500
Fax: (0) 20 8282 7501
Email: xtm@ripmax.com
WARRANTY INfORmATION
In North America
Your XTM Racing Nitro Rail Off-Road Buggy is warranted against manufacturer defects in materials and workmanship for a period
of 90 days from the date of purchase. Warranty service will be provided within 90 days of the date of purchase only if you are able to
provide the original or a copy of the original dated sales receipt.
In the United Kingdom/Europe
Your XTM Racing Nitro Rail Off-Road Buggy is warranted against manufacturer defects in materials and workmanship for a period of 1
(one) year from the date of purchase. Warranty service will be provided within 1 (one) year of the date of purchase only if you are able
to provide the original or a copy of the original dated sales receipt. This does not affect your statutory rights.
Page 87
Features and Specifications are Subject to Change Without Notice. All contents © 2011 XTM Racing and Global Hobby Distributors
All Rights Reserved. Revision 1 / 04.29.2011
Made in Taiwan
Page 88

Kit Product # 145634 (US) / C-XTM

Transcription

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