£1.1bn 50% £93m

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24 Skincare 30 Young people 38 Carers’ rights
CATEGORY FOCUS
Skincare
Skincare is the largest health and beauty market at
well over £1bn – so make sure your customers are
getting the advice they need, says Fran Robinsonx
£1.1bn
Non-medicated skincare
total market value
50%
Pharmacy share of the nonmedicated skincare market
£93m
Medicated skincare total
market value
Source: Kantar Worldpanel, 52 weeks to
March 20, 2011
24 Chemist+Druggist 11.06.11
S
kincare is a large and growing market,
with over three quarters of the British
population buying some form of nonmedicated skincare during the year and spending
on average £30 each, according to Kantar
Worldpanel data (see Market Insight, p27).
£550 million of that spend each year goes into
pharmacy, whose share is showing 1 per cent
growth compared to stasis in the overall market.
“Thankfully, the majority of presented skin
problems are not serious and can be treated
without prescription. This drives patients into
pharmacies rather than doctors’ surgeries for
advice and product recommendations,” says
Richard Anderson, chief executive of Crawford
Pharmaceuticals, which distributes the QV
emollient range. As skincare products are needed
throughout the year, this demand facilitates
consistent sales in the skincare area and provides
pharmacies with a steady income, he adds.
A Lloydspharmacy spokesperson says new
product development always drives growth in the
skincare category, along with price promotions.
Increased awareness due to marketing and
education is also helping to increase sales, she
adds. “Cosmetic brands such as L’Oréal have
introduced some significant technology to the
market with the Derm Source range launched
under the Vichy brand name, which aims to fight
the ageing effects of the skin.”
And it’s not just the multiples who are
benefiting. Numark marketing manager Lynne
Henshaw says the skincare category continues to
grow within independent pharmacy too, with
more customers asking for advice than ever
before. “Community pharmacy should
concentrate on skin conditions to underpin their
competitive advantage – sales that are driven by
sound advice. Although I would not recommend
stocking a huge range, don’t forget beauty.” Her
advice is backed by the numbers, as Kantar
Worldpanel data shows customers spend nearly
£95m on medicated products and splash out
£308m on prestige health and beauty skincare
every year.
Ms Henshaw also recommends devoting some
space to baby skincare, where Kantar Worldpanel
says pharmacy has been losing out to grocery over
the past year.
The multinational pharmaceutical and
cosmetics group Pierre Fabre recently conducted
a survey on sensitive skin and discovered that
people with skin issues would prefer to speak to a
pharmacist than to any other retailer. “This is not
only because they trust their advice, but also they
feel more confident that the issue will not be
dismissed,” says Bao Tam Phan, the company’s UK
marketing and training manager-pharmacist.
“People may expect their pharmacist to be more
compassionate and recommend the
products they see best for the customer.”
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BUSINESS
Product Watch
QV
Distributor: Crawford Pharmaceuticals
Classification: Non-medicinal
For: Skincare throughout the year
What’s new? The QV emollient range is relaunching
with a new look and increased marketing spend after an
online campaign targeting mums in 2010 boosted sales
by 47 per cent year on year, the company says. A recent
survey found 89 per cent of people with dry skin felt QV
was different to their previous dry skin products
www.crawfordpharma.com
Tel: 01565 654920
Email: alison.whittaker@crawfordpharma.com
Format/pack size: Cream 100g, 500g; bath oil 200ml, 500ml; wash 200ml;
lotion 250ml
Pip codes: 327-3315, 327-3323; 327-3299, 327-3307; 363-9176; 327-3331
RRP: £3.52, £10.08; £3.96, £8.10; £4.50; £5.40
Uvistat Medicated Lipscreen SPF50
Manufacturer: LPC Pharmaceuticals
Classification: GSL
For: Sun protection
Active ingredients: Sunscreens
USP: The combination of tea tree oil, moisturising
properties, five-star UVA protection and UVB SPF50 help
prevent cold sore development in the sun. The product is
available on prescription
Contraindications: Sensitivity to any of the ingredients
www.uvistat.com
Tel: 01582 560393
Email: campbell.douglas@lpcpharma.com
Format/pack size: 5g
Pip code: 229-0666
RRP: £4.99
Eurax
Manufacturer: Novartis
Consumer Health
Classification: Eurax Cream and
Eurax Lotion GSL, Eurax Hc Cream P
For: Relief of itching and skin
irritation associated with 10 different
skin conditions: allergic rashes,
eczema, hives, nettle rash, insect bites and stings, heat rash, sunburn,
chicken pox, dermatitis and personal itching. Hc Cream provides relief from
inflammation and pruritus associated with irritant contact dermatitis, allergic
contact dermatitis, insect bite reactions and mild to moderate eczema
Active ingredients: Eurax Cream and Eurax Lotion: crotamiton. Eurax Hc
Cream: crotamiton and hydrocortisone
Contraindications: Eurax Cream and Eurax Lotion: acute exudative
dermatoses; hypersensitivity to any of the ingredients; Eurax Cream should
not be used in or around the eyes since contact with the eyelids may give
rise to conjunctival inflammation. Eurax Hc Cream: hypersensitivity to any
component of the formulation; bacterial, viral or fungal infections of the
skin; acute exudative dermatoses; application to ulcerated areas; use on the
eyes/face, ano-genital region, broken or infected skin including cold sores,
acne and athlete's foot
Tel: 01403 218111
Format/pack size: Eurax Cream 30g, 100g; Eurax Lotion 100ml; Eurax HC
Cream 15g
Pip codes: 009-4474, 045-1567; 049-3361; 047-7638
RRP: £3.80, £6.53; £5.02; £3.31
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24 Skincare 30 Young people 38 Carers’ rights
5 tips to boost your
skincare sales
Market Insight: Skincare
Over three quarters of the British population
buy some form of non-medicated skincare in
the year, spending on average more than £30
each – and this is why it is such a large and
important market, valued at over £1.1 billion.
Add to that £93 million spent on medicated
products (down 2 per cent year on year) and
£308m on prestige skincare (up 2 per cent) and
we see the largest health and beauty market.
After the leap in value of Boots No7, when
Protect & Perfect shook the market in 2009,
we have seen a levelling out in performance,
with baby, body and – odd as it may seem –
petroleum jelly all performing well year on year.
Vaseline becoming a fashionable lipcare
accessory has helped the latter category.
However, the largest subcategory, facial
moisturisers, dictates the total market trend
and price promotions in this area and shoppers
trading down have led to a 2 per cent decline in
value. Indeed, anti-ageing (at £250m within
facial moisturisers), is seeing a 5 per cent
decline as cheaper products claim to perform
a similar function to more expensive brands.
Boots No7 is still far and away the biggest
brand, with the Oil of Olay range in second
place. Notable growing brands include The
Sanctuary, Dove, Soap & Glory and the
offerings from Aldi at the budget end of the
Market changes 2010-11:
non-medicated skincare
Total market value
£1.1 billion
shopper spectrum. Aveeno and Jergens have
also performed well.
Boots’ share of the total market is growing
and, in an area where they can stock a large
range, they dominate, with nearly half of all
skincare sales by value. Tesco is the biggest
grocery multiple, with Superdrug in third place.
Unsurprisingly, this means Boots also
dominates the pharmacy sector, with the added
advantage of its own labels, No7, Time Delay
and other ranges. This is why own label makes
up 52 per cent of value sales in pharmacy,
compared with 36 per cent of all GB sales.
We also see a difference in subcategory
trends when comparing pharmacy versus the
total market trends: hand and nail does much
better in pharmacy, as do cleansers. However,
pharmacy has lost out in the growth of baby
skincare, where grocery does better.
Over a quarter of all medicated skincare sales
go through pharmacy and an argument could
be made that this should be higher given the
nature of the products. Pharmacy has
performed better with some more specialised
products such as Bio-Oil.
For smaller pharmacies, the number of items
to stock will always be an issue. Care should be
taken to offer some ‘old favourites’ while
stocking brands for dry, baby and teenage skin.
How the subcategories
compare: non-medicated
skincare, pharmacy
0%
Market
share
Facial moisturiser
Pharmacy market value
£552.2 million
1
+ %
Body
Cleansers
Medicated skincare
Hand and nail
Total market value
£93.2 million
Pharmacy market value
£23.4 million
2
- %
10%
Subcategory
growth
49.6% -4%
24.6% +9%
16.0% +6%
4.7% +13%
2.1% -6%
1.9% -3%
1.0% -2%
0.2% +/-0%
1. “When it comes to merchandising,
E45 should be the beacon brand for
the skincare category – this is the one
customers use to identify the section.”
Lynne Henshaw, marketing manager,
Numark
2. “Explain the skincare routine in detail
and split it into three simple steps:
cleanse, exfoliate, moisturise, and treat
when needed.”
Spokesperson, Freederm
3. “Try the products yourself or be trained
by the brand about the efficacy of the
products.”
Bao Tam Phan, UK marketing and
training manager-pharmacist,
Pierre Fabre
4. “Many skincare enquiries are
seasonal. During the winter months
there are more enquiries relating to
chaffed skin and summer months see
an increase in conditions such as
prickly heat. It’s important to establish
what the customer’s condition is so
suitable recommendations can be made.”
Spokesperson, Lloydspharmacy
5. “Make sure your team understands
that any item that the customer wants
that you don’t have in can usually be
obtained the next day.”
Lynne Henshaw, marketing manager,
Numark
Best selling nonmedicated skincare brands
Pharmacy market share
Total market
1. Boots No7
2. Oil of Olay
3. Simple
4. L’Oréal Demo
Expertise
5. Nivea Visage
6. Garnier Skin
Naturals
7. Nivea
8. The Sanctuary
9. Vaseline
10. E45
2
Branded
48.5%
+ %
Source: Kantar Worldpanel, 52 weeks to
March 20, 2011
3%
Own label
51.5%
- %
Lip products
Toners
Baby
-
CAREERS
Petroleum jelly
Branded v own label: Non-medicated skincare
Total market share
Branded
64.1%
+ %
Own label
35.9%
-
Source: Kantar Worldpanel, 52 weeks to March 20, 2011.
Data and analysis provided for C+D by Kantar
Worldpanel (Strategic insight director Tim Nancholas)
7
4
Pharmacy
1. Boots No7
2. The Sanctuary
3. Oil of Olay
4. L’Oréal Demo
Expertise
5. Boots Time Delay
6. Soap & Glory
7. Nivea Visage
8. Garnier Skin
Naturals
9. Simple
10. Bio-Oil
How staff training has benefitted
one pharmacy’s skincare sales
Case study: www.chemistanddruggist.
co.uk/pharmacy-business
11.06.11 Chemist+Druggist 27
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Product Watch
SOS Rescue Me
Manufacturer: First Natural
Classification: Non-medicinal
For: Extremely dry, sensitive, irritated or
uncomfortable skin, for all ages. It may also
be suitable for those prone to eczema and
psoriasis
Key ingredients: Stellaria (chickweed) and
burdock botanical extracts, macadamia and
evening primrose oils, organic sulphur (MSM),
neroli and chamomile pure essential oils
USP: A natural therapeutic formula using a
combination of ethically sourced botanical
extracts, pure natural moisturisers and essential oils
www.barefoot-botanicals.com
Tel: 01273 325666
Email: sales@barefoot-botanicals.com
Format/pack size: 50ml, 100ml
RRP: £9.95, £17.95
Care ViraSoothe
Manufacturer: Thornton & Ross
Classification: Medical device
For: Relief of the irritating symptoms of chicken pox, by cooling the skin and
relieving the itching. Can be used all over the face and body for adults and
children over six months
Key ingredients: Care ViraSoothe uses technology that works through
osmosis to cool and hydrate the skin
What’s new? The current Spot and Soothe
campaign aims to encourage parents to be prepared
with ViraSoothe if there is an outbreak at school.
The brand is working with the Netmums website to
host a one-month chicken pox Q&A forum
www.itchi.co.uk
Tel: 01484 842217
Email: chickenpoxenquiries@thorntonross.com
Format/pack size: 50g, 75g
Pip code: 346-3874, 346-3866
RRP: £5.73, £8.33
Exorex
Manufacturer: Forest Laboratories
Classification: GSL
For: Treatment of psoriasis
Active ingredients: Cutaneous emulsion prepared coal tar 5 per cent v/w
USP: A range of Exorex wash and moisturising products formulated with the
psoriasis sufferer in mind complement the treatment lotion, including Exorex
Hair and Body Shampoo and Exorex
Moisturising Cream
Contraindications: Sensitivity to coal tar or
any of the ingredients; presence of folliculitis
and acne vulgaris; conditions characterised by
photosensitivity; inflamed or broken skin
(open exuding wounds or infection of the skin)
www.exorex.co.uk
Tel: 01322 421800
Email: exorex@forest-labs.co.uk
Format/pack size: 100ml, 250ml
Pip code: 242-2525, 242-2533
RRP: £15.27, £30.58
28 Chemist+Druggist 11.06.11
Freederm
Manufacturer:
Diomed Developments
Classification:
Freederm Gel GSL, rest
of range non-medicinal
For: Spot-prone skin
Active ingredients: Nicotinamide (Freederm Gel only)
What’s new? In the past year, Freederm has launched Deep Pore Cleansing
Wipes and Oil-free Perfecting Moisturiser. The brand is currently on TV
www.freederm.co.uk
Formats/pack sizes, pip codes and RRPs: See C+D Monthly Price List or
www.cddata.co.uk
E45 Endless Moisture Derma Restore
Manufacturer: Reckitt Benckiser
Classification: Non-medicinal
For: Skin hydration
What’s new? E45 Endless Moisture Derma Restore launched
last month with £1 million support, promising to grow the
mature body skincare market
www.rb.com
Format/pack size: 200ml
Pip code: 350-7332
RRP: £4.59
Zero AQS
Manufacturer: Thornton & Ross
Classification: Medical device class 1
For: Use as an emollient and skin cleanser in
management of dry skin conditions
Ingredients: Macrogol cetostearyl
ether, cetostearyl alcohol,
chlorocresol, liquid paraffin, paraffin
white soft and purified water
What’s new: Launched on June 1,
ZeroAQS is an SLS (sodium lauryl sulphate)-free alternative to aqueous cream
Contraindications: For external use only. Seek medical advice before use if
the skin is broken
www.trderma.co.uk
Tel: 01484 842217
Format/pack size: 500g, 100g
RRP: £3.09, £6.17
Pip code: 362-6439, 362-6447
Veet Hair Minimising Body Moisturiser
Manufacturer: Reckitt Benckiser
Classification: Non-medicinal
For: Reducing the appearance of hair re-growth
and softening stubble
Key ingredients: Trade-marked Prominimise
inhibits hair follicle activity
What’s new? Veet Hair Minimising Body
Moisturiser launched in February this year with
£2 million support including TV advertising
www.rb.com
Format/pack size: 250ml
RRP: £4.99
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How Dead Sea skincare brand Ahava is stimulating growth
www.chemistanddruggist.co.uk/pharmacy-business
Case study
Co-operative Pharmacy,
Gilfach Goch, Mid Glamorgan
Elen Jones
Elen Jones, pharmacist at the
Glifach Goch Pharmacy in Mid
Glamorgan, keeps herself up to
date on skin conditions and all the
new products coming onto the
market in order to deliver the best
possible care for her customers.
Skincare is a very important for
her busy pharmacy, which is
attached to the village’s health
centre. Ms Jones receives regular
queries about dry skin, dermatitis,
eczema and acne and spends a lot
of time counselling mothers concerned about skincare for babies and
young children.
Ms Jones has done a distance learning course on skincare with the
Wales Centre for Pharmacy Professional Education, she studies pictures
of skin conditions in text books and regularly signs herself and her staff
up for training modules provided by pharmaceutical companies.
“It’s a priority for me to keep myself up to date: [there’s] nothing
worse than someone coming in and saying, ‘I saw this on TV,’ and you
haven’t a clue what they are talking about,” she says.
Anthelios XL
Manufacturer: La Roche-Posay
For: Sun protection against UVA and UVB rays
Key ingredients: Patented filters Mexoryl SX and
Mexoryl XL
What’s new? Research by Anthelios reveals that
over a third of the general public still aren’t applying
sunscreen while in the UK, despite a quarter of the
nation burning themselves last year. The survey also
shows that the majority of Brits would seek advice on
sun protection from a healthcare professional
(pharmacist, dermatologist or GP). In response to
these results, La Roche-Posay has developed an A4
reference sheet to guide pharmacists and GPs on the
latest information regarding UVA and UVB protection
www.laroche-posay.co.uk
Tel: 0208 762 4971
Email: info@laroche-posay.co.uk
Format/pack size: 50ml. Available for normal/dry skin, oily/combination
skin, acne-prone skin and in tinted SPF50+ versions. Anthelios XL Melt-InCream is also available on prescription
Pip code: 362-3972
RRP: £15
CPD Reflect
• Plan • Act • Evaluate
Tips for your CPD entry on skincare
REFLECT
Do my patients get the most out of skincare products?
PLAN
Review my and my staff’s knowledge and sales protocols.
ACT
Revise common skin conditions, review available products
and recent innovations in the market and arrange training
as necessary.
EVALUATE Do my patients get better skincare advice?