The Philtower Building The Philmont Scout Ranch

The Philtower Building
The Philmont Scout Ranch
These properties
are donated and dedicated
to the Boy Scouts of America
for the purpose of perpetuating
Faith
Self-reliance
Integrity
Freedom
Principles used to build this great country
by the American Pioneer.
So that
these future citizens may
through thoughtful adult guidance
and by the inspiration of nature
visualize and form a code of living
to diligently maintain these high ideals
and our proper destiny.
Waite Phillips
December 37, 7947
INDEX OF MAPS
NUMBER
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
NORTHERN TRAILS
Dean Cow & Fourmile to Ponil
Dean Cow & Fourmile ito Indian Writings
Dean Cow & Black Jack's Hideout to Harlan
Ponil to Indian Writings to Old Camp
Ponil to Old Camp
Ponil to Visto Grande & Black Jack's Hideout
Ponil & Bent to Dan Beard
Dan Beard to Old Camp
Bent & Ponil to Pueblano
Pueblano Ruins to Dean Skyline & New Dean
Pueblano to Copper Park
Pueblano & Head of Dean to Miranda, Ewell's Park & Baldy Town
Maxwell to Ute Meadows, Ewell's Park & Copper Park
Head of Dean & Upper Dean Cow to Visto Grande
Baldy Mountain Side Hikes
CENTRAL TRAILS
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
Cathedral Rock & Ute Springs to Sawmill
Cathedral Rock to Cimarroncito to Harlan
Cimarroncito & Webster Parks to Visto Grande
Cimarroncito to Clark's Fork, Ponderosa & Upper Clark's Fork
Harlan to Sawmill
Sawmill to Cypher's Mine & Clear Creek
Cypher's Mine to Clark's Fork & Cimarroncito
Cypher's Mine to Black Mountain & Beaubien
Cypher's Mine to Red Hills
Red Hills to Crooked Creek & Porcupine
Red Hills to Black Mountain & Beaubien
Red Hills to Shaefer's Pass
Clark's Fork to Miner's Park
Shaefer's Pass to Camping Headquarters
SOUTHERN TRAILS
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
42
43
Rimrock Park & Abreu to Lower Bonita & Lookout Meadow
Rayado River to Crater Lake
Abreu to Fish Camp
Lover's Leap & Abreu to Urraca
Lover's Leap to Miner's Park & Crater Lake
Urraca to Crater Lake & Lower Bonita
Crater Lake to Beaubien
Fish Camp to Crooked Creek
Apache Springs to Lower Bonita & Lookout Meadow
Apache Springs to Crooked Creek & Porcupine
Porcupine to Clear Creek
Porcupine to Beaubien to Black Mountain
Miner's Park to Tooth Ridge via North Fork Urraca
Urraca to Camping Headquarters via Tooth
DEAN COW & FOURMlLE TO PONlL
1. Dean Cow derives its name from a large cattle operation that once flourished throughout Dean Canyon.
Please leave all gates as you find them - either open
or closed.
5. The descent from the Skyline can be dangerous if undertaken too rapidly - the trail is rocky and s~teep.The
ascent is arduous and is best accomplished in the cool
of early morning.
2. Between Dean Cow and Ponil you may choose one of
several routes. You may hike over Chandler Pass and
then up the Middle Ponil, or ascend Chandler and traverse the Skyline Ridge to Ponil, or hike up Dean Canyon and then cross over Skyline Ridge to Ponil. The
Chandler Pass/Middle Ponil route can be sweltering on
sunny days, but is best to avoid climbing, though you
must still ascend the pass. The Skyline route is generally considered the most scenic. The Dean Canyon
route is probably the best compromise. The choice is
yours.
6. Ponil was the site of Philturn Rocky Mountain Scout
Camp, Philmont's predecessor by three years. This was
headquarters for the first tract of land, including all
ranch property novth of Highway 64 and east of Pueblano Ruins Camp.
7. The "trail" between Chandler Pass and Dean Skyline is
one of the least traveled and yet one of the most scenic
on Philmont. If you lose the "path," just continue along
the crest of the ridge to Dean Skyline. Since no water
is available along this roulte, you need to fill your canteens at Dean Cow or Ponil.
3. New Dean Camp is named after Bob Dean, a former
cattleman in these parts. The water supply here comes
from a windmill pumped well. Crews going to Bent and
Ponil should head north from the windmill and follow
an abandoned road to Dean Skyline.
8. Several blind curves along this road make it hazardous
for foot travel. Be sure to hike in single file on the left
side of the road. It's also a good idea to have someone
at the "point," both front and rear, to alert the rest of
the crew to approaching traffic.
4. Atop Skyline Ridge is one of the most panoramic views
on the ranch. You can see the Cimarron Mountains (on
Philmont) to the south, Baldy and Touch-Me-Not to the
west, Colorado's Cuelebra and Spanish Peaks to the
northwest and northeasit and vast stretches of Llano
Estacado (means "staked plains") to the east. These
plains were staked to provide points of reference, otherwise lacking, to early travelers.
9. A small Spanish-American graveyard with traditionally
used wooden crosses marks the entrance to Graveyard
Canyon. Although the dates and names have weathered
from the wood, please respect this cemetery.
MAP 2
-
Dean Cow to Indian Writings via Six Mile Gate
12.6 kilometers
(7.8 miles)
Dean Cow to Fourmile
7.1 kilometers (4.4 miles)
Fourmile to lndian Writings- 7.9 kilometers (4.9 m~les)
Dean Cow to lndian Wrrtings via McBride Canyon
72.9 kllomefers
(8.0 miles)
-
-
DEAN COW & FOURMILE TO INDIAN WRITINGS
1. To avoid walking in extreme heat, be sure to start early. Wise backpackers usually hit the trail soon after dawn. This means rising when
the sky still twinkles with stars.
2. Chandler Canyon was named after the manager of the Porter Ranch
which once included this area. The road through lthe canyon is arduous
for foot travel, especially in hot or inclement weather.
3. When you reach the Ponil Canyon road, you must choose among three
routes. Crews hiking from Fourmile to lndian Writings will find the Corral
Canyon trail convenient. The McBride Canyon jeep road is preferable
between Dean Cow and lndian Writings. By following the road to Six
Mile Gate and then up the North Ponil to lndian Writings, you can avoid
climbing and descending steep trails, but the scenery lacks great appeal.
4. The lndian Writings road roughly follows the bed of the defunct Cimarran and Northwestern Railroad which extended up the North Ponil Canyon beyond Philmont's boundary. This one time prosperous railroad also
had spurs up the Middle and South Ponil Canyons.
5. The rimrocks on both sides of this canyon are horizontal beds of Raton
and Poison Canyon sandstone formations.
6. On arriving at lndian Writings, you will first see the burro pen, and then
the archaeology museum and digs. While you wait near the burro pen,
your crew leader and advisor should check in at the staff cabin about
one kilometer (0.6 mile) beyond. This will save you from having to backtrack to your campsite.
7. Fourmile Camp is located opposite the mouth of Corral Canyon on the
southwest side of Ponil Creek. Be sure you avoid pitching your tents
under any "widowmakers." Dead cottonwood snags may come crashing
down during stormy weather.
8. The Corral Canyon trail has a steady uphill grade. Keep an eye and an
ear out for rattlesnakes that inhabit Philmont's north country. The
chances of being struck are remote, but don't take any chances. If you
do see a rattlesnake along the trail, let it be. Rattlesnakes are beneficial
in controlling Philmont's rodent population.
9. Take careful bearings here, or you may find yourself heading back into
Middle Ponil Canyon. Follow the saddle northeast until it meets the jeep
trail near the head of McBride Canyon. Turn northwest on the jeep trail
and follow the main ridge which overlooks both forks of Ponil Creek.
10. At this point the jeep trail descends rapidly !to the bottom of a canyon
where it merges with the trail from Ponil. Be particularly careful of loose
rock as the trail drops into North Ponil Canyon.
MhP 3
--
Dean Cow td Harlan
?t.O nrrvrrdters (7.5 milesl
BfaDk Jack's to Harlan
15.3 kilometers 19.5 miles)
DEAN COW & BLACK JACK'S HIDEOUT TO HARLAN
1. Dean Cow Camp was once part of a large catltle operation. Livestock
still frequently graze these canyons. Water from the welll here is shared
with Philmont's neighbors on the Chase Ranch, across the fence.
2. Black Jack's Hideout is a secluded overhang where the notorious "Black
Jack" Ketchum and his gang temporarily eluded lawmen after successful "jobs" in Cimarron Canyon, Oklahoma (where they held up a train)
and other neighboring states. In 1899 this was lthe scene of a desperate
shoot-out between the gang and a posse headed by Sheriff Ed Farr of
Walsenburg, Colorado. Two of the bandits and two of the posse were
killed and several others wounded. Black Jack escaped but was captured a short time later and sentenced to hang. When lthe noose
snapped his neck at Clayton, New Mexico, he was decapitated!
3. Turkey Creek Canyon can become hotter than Dante's Inferno on sunny
days, but changes moods quickly. Torrential gully-washers sometimes
come whipping through, leaving a path of destruc~tion.In all probability,
there will be no water (the stream bed is usually dry) until you reach
the Cimarron River. It will behoove you to rise before dawn and to head
out soon after daybreak, to avoid both stifling temperatures and flash
floods.
4. The St. Louis, Rocky Moun'tain and Pacific Railroad, which later became a spur of the Santa Fe, was built through Cimarron Canyon to
Ute Park in 1901. Originally this route was planned to go from Des
Moines, New Mexico all the way to the west coast. Later these plans
were forsaken and the track was taken up in 1942 for use in the World
War ll effort.
A large culvert permits you
to dodge traffic. If you take
double the normal dosage
lution. Please do not bathe
to cross under Highway 64 without having
water from the Cimarron River, be sure to
of purification because of upstream polin the river.
The trail to Harlan begins on the south bank of the river. Follow the
old railroad bed about one kilometer (0.6 mile) where the trail begins
ascending the ridge.
5. Numerous switchbacks comprise the trail here- please do not !take
any shortcuts. Cutting switchbacks creates serious erosion that soon
necessitates relocating the trail.
6. The trails in this area can be confusing. Harlan Camp lies just over
the ridge, to the southwest. Cross the meadow and pick up the trail
ascending the ridge.
7. Harlan Camp was named after the promoter of the St. Louis, Rocky
Mountain and Pacific Railroad, Thomas P. Harlan, who stimulated interest in the railroad through Cimarron Canyon. At Harlan you will be
introduced to the "Rocky Mountain Canary," otherwise known as the
burro and less flattering names.
PONlL TO INDIAN WRITINGS TO OLD CAMP
1. Ponil was known as "Five Points" when it was headquarters of Philturn Rocky Mountain Scout Camp because of (the five canyons that converge here - Horse
Canyon, Cedar Canyon, South Ponil Canyon and both
directions of Middle Ponil Canyon. The trail to lndian
Writings begins behind the staff dining hall.
2. Unless you want to rough it, the newly constructed,
gently rising trail up Cedar Canyon is recommended.
Notice that the trail contours the slope and is gently
outsloped to permit ground water to flow across the
path, instead of down its length, eventually forming a
gully.
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a
3. To locate the trail to Indian Writings, you mus~tclimb
Hart Peak -the
trail to the North Ponil begins just
north of the peak's summit.
4. North Ponil Canyon was an area of intense lndian inhabitation about one thousand years ago. You can see
petroglyphs etched in the rock by these people of a
marginal Pueblo-Plains culture. Accompanied by one of
the archaeology program staff, you can visit the main
site where a pit house, slab house and human burial
have been meticulously excavated. For some unknown
reason the Indians left this area about 1300 A.D. You
can help Philmon~t'sarchaeologists find out why.
5. The trail up Cottonwood Canyon passes through a series of seemingly spun gold meadows. This is mountain
lion country, but due to their solitary timid nature,
Scouts who are sharp-eyed enough to glimpse one are
lucky indeed. If you see the partially buried remains of
a deer, chances are it was a mountain lion kill. A carnivorous mammal, its staff of life i s lthe Mule deer.
6. The road to Old Camp proximately follows the bed of
the Cimarron and Northwestern Railroad that hauled
timber for a large logging operation throughout this
area in the early years of the Twentieth Century. Midway beltween lndian Writings and Old Camp, not far
from the road, you can see cabin ruins. Near here,
Charles Bent, first governor of the New Mexico Territory, founded one of the earliest settlements on Philmont in 1844. After the United States Army marched
into New Mexico in 1846, it was taken over and used for
grazing. An old Army issue bucket dated 1845 was
found here in 1956, indicating that a cavalry unit may
have been posted here. Old Army cartridges, 54.40
calibre, have been found here too.
7. Old Camp has a windmill and a burro pen. If you have
burros, be sure to water them.
Elk are prevalent in this area. Surpassed only by the
moose, the elk is the second largest antlered mammal
in North America. Even at a disitance they are readily
distinguished from deer by their ruddy brown fur (deer
are a lighter, dusty brown) and by the dark collar
around their throat and shoulders. A large bull (male)
elk may weigh up to 320 kilograms (700 pounds).
mnr 5
Ponil to Old Camp via Horse Canyon -$'A kilometers
(5.8 miles)
Ponil to Old Camp via Hart Peak- 11.2 kilomefers
(7.0 miles)
PONlL TO OLD CAMP
1. The best and most direct route between Old Camp and Ponil heading
either way is via Horse Canyon. Be sure to fill your canteens in camp there is no water along the way. If you have opted to take burros, a
wrangler at Ponil will show you how to securely tie your load on one
using the unsurpassed "diamond hitch."
2. The ridge trail provides a strikingly scenic route with a commanding view
of Baldy and the northern snow-capped peaks in Colorado. Take the trail
behind the Ponil staff dining hall, heading up Cedar Canyon. As you pass
behind the dining hall, notice the massive rock that looks like an old
woman with a cape draped about her shoulders. This is "Granny Ponil"
to all who know her.
3. Remains of cabins built by loggers are sprinkled about this area. Along
this dry creek bed are large overhangs where Indian symbols are sometimes seen etched in the rock. This is mountain lion country. If you are
lucky, you may see cougar tracks, but hardly ever the animal.
4. Crews without burros may take the east branch at this junction. Because
the trail is narrow and steep, expeditions with burros are well advised to
continue to the head of Horse Canyon.
5. From here you follow the ridge in an easterly direction and then begin
a steep descent into North Ponil Canyon. Looking down, you can see the
windmill at Old Camp. It's farther than it looks!
6. Located on an open, well drained, but gentle slope rising from the canyon
floor, Old Camp is steeped with history. In the camp itself are the remains
of a cabin. Strewn on the ground nearby are broken parts of settlers'
tools. While exploring the hillsides you may come upon evidence of prehistoric Indians.
Please do not disturb any artifacts you discover - leave them where they
lie to be enjoyed by future crews. Report their location as accurately as
possible, preferably in writing, to the Camping Headquarters Program
office so that a qualified archaeologist can inspect the find and further
piece together the s~toryof our predecessors on Philmont.
Old Camp has a burro corral and a windmill with water that needs to be
purified in the interest of your health. Unless a staff mem'ber informs you
that the water from a particular source is chlorinated, always be sure i o
$treatyour water at 'least 20 minutes before consuming it.
MAP 6
-
Ponll to Vlsto Grande
13.8 kilometers (8.6 miles)
Ponil to Black Jack's -8.9 kilometers (5.5 miles)
PONlL TO VlSTO GRANDE & BLACK JACK'S HIDEOUT
The trail to Dean Canyon begins directly across Middle Ponil Creek
frolm the Ponil commissary/trading post.
The ascent of the Skyline is rigorous, especially in the heat of midday.
You gain 425 meters (1400 feet) elevation in about three kilometers.
The top of the Skyline offers one of the most commanding views on the
ranch. To the west you can see charred trees and blackened embers
from a 300+ acre forest fire, thought to have been caused by lightning,
in 1974. If you are scheduled to camp on the Skyline and inclement
weather becomes apparent, promptly descend to the bench one kilometer (0.6 mile) back down the trail from Ponil.
To reach New Dean, descend the old jeep road that runs south from
the Skyline. Watch your footing on those loose rocks. Keep in mind if
you must step on a rock, the most secure footing is usually at the center
of it where your weight will be balanced. Fist-sized rocks are best
avoided compleltely, since they tend to roll.
New Dean was named after cattle foreman, Bob Dean, who worked
cattle for the H. M. Porter Ranch from 1883 until his death in 1892. A
windmill-driven wel'l provides your water. To continue on to Black Jack's
Hideout or Visto Grande, go through the gate near the Dean Canyon
road and head southeast on the uphill road.
The New Mexico Department of Forestry operates this lookout tower
during fire season (usually June and the firs~thalf of July) to spot fires.
If the rangers are present, they may allow you to climb the tower from
which you get a spectacular view of Philmont country.
Crews heading for Black Jack's Hideout or Harlan should take the right
hand fork, while those headed for Visto Grande should descend into
Bear Canyon. This extremely steep downhill trail should be negotiated
with care to avert injury from falling or spraining an ankle.
Exercise the utmost caution in crossing Highway 64. After crossing the
Cimarron River on a suspension bridge, you parallel the river for one
and one half kilome~terson its south bank until the trail veers uphill
toward Visto Grande.
This pleasantly contoured, new trail makes backpacking delightful
The spring at Visto Grande has ceased flowing during periods of extreme drought. It will behoove you to inquire about the availability of
water here at your last staffed camp. If the spring is dry, you will have
to carry water from the Cimarron River. Any water taken from this polluted stream requires double the usual purification dosage.
Bent to Dan Beard- 6.4 kilometers (4.0 miles)
Ponii to Bent
5.1 kilometers (3.2 miles1
-
PONIL ,& BENT TO DAM BEARD
1. From Ponil two routes diverge toward Dan Beard; Middle Ponil/Bonita Canyon has a gentle grade; Horse
Canyon offers grandiose views. During bear hunting
season on state land, which usually begins about August 1, the Horse Canyon route is a must.
2. Along here you will see the remains of a cabin built by
loggers who operated in the Ponil country around 1915
to 1920. Look for signs of wildlife, especially mountain
lions, one of Philmont's carnivors (flesh eating animals).
Rattlesnakes are also prevalent in this country, so
watch where you put your hands and feet.
3. Follow the jeep road that flanks a fence line, until you
reach the trail tha't drops into Dan Beard.
4. On the hill overlooking Dan Beard, you may want to
pause to enjoy one of the most exhilarating views on
Philmont. Below you lies Bonita Canyon where Dan
Beard Camp lazily lounges in a wildflower speckled
meadow. To the west Baldy Mountain stretches its rose
tinted cap high in the sky. Be sure to puri'fy any water
you pump from the well.
5. Bent, interspersed with sunny meadows and shady
narrowleaf cottonwoods, one of Philmont's most predominant deciduous trees, is located along Middlle
Ponil Creek near the ranch propellty line. Some of the
old stumps in this area bear tooth marks where they
were gnawed by once plentiful beavers.
6. The greater portion of this trail lies in the Barker Wildlife Area, named after Elliott S. Barker who headed the
New Mexico Game and Fish Department for many years
and who has authored several delightful 'books of his
experiences in !the early days of New Mexico. Please
assume your best Scout manners while backpacking
through here.
MAP 8 Den
Bearc! t o @id Camp via Cook Canyon
Dan Beard to Old Camp via jeep trari-8.6
-7.2 kilometers
kilometers (5.3 r
DAN BEARD TO OLD CAMP
1. Dan Beard Camp is named after Daniel Carter Beard
who, along with Baden-Powell and Ernest Thompson
Seton, was one of the three founders of the Boy Scouts
of America. Many Scouts and Explorers have become
enamored wi4h the serenely aesthetic beauty of this
remote trail camp.
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w
2. Cook Canyon is a long, dry hike on a hot day, but is
comparatively easy. A gradually declining trail through
the canyon takes you nearly all the way to Old Camp.
About midway, a stone fireplace still stands as a vestige of lumbering and ranching carried on here at the
turn of the century.
After the validity of the Maxwell Land Grant was upheld
by the Supreme Court on April 18, 1887, Deputy Sheriff
George W. Cook was employed to serve court injunctions on the squatters in this area to prompt them to
negotiate the purchase of their farms, or leave. While
carrying out this mission Deputy Sheriff Cook was am-
bushed and shot in the hip. His alleged attacker, Julio
Martinez, was killed a few days later by Cook and
Deputy Sheriff Zebulon V. Russell.
3. Watch for bald and golden eagles occasionally seen
in this vicinity. These magnificent birds often shavewing
spans of seven feet or more.
4. Old Camp was once a settlement called "Metcalf" on
the Cimarron and Northwestern Railroad when this area
sported a large logging operation. North of Old Camp,
up North Ponil Canyon, you can still see creosoted ties
and trestles that once supported rails for the "iron
horse."
As you lie in your sleeping bag, the eerie howl of coyotes on nearby mesas 'may pierce the cool night air.
Coyotes prowl PhilmontJs low country by day and by
nighst searching for food. They help keep Philmont's
rodent and rabbit populations within reasonable bounds.
MAP 9
Bent to Pueblano via Wilson Mesa -8.2 kilometers (5.1 milee
Ponil to Pueblano via South PonN- 9.8 kilometers (8.0 miles)
BENT & PONlL TO PUEBLANO
1. Several alternate trails are available from Bent en
route to Pueblano or Pueblano Ruins. Crews hiking from
Dan Beard usually prefer to hike northwest up Middle
Ponil Creek to the headquarters of the former Stern
Ranch (now the Barker Wildlife Area, owned and managed by the New Mexico Department of Game and
Fish) and then southwest up an old jeep road, now
closed to vehicular traffic. Alternatively, you may
choose the trail that rises directly up Wilson Mesa from
Bent. During bear hunting season, which usually begins
about August 1, both these f-outes should be relinquished in favor of the South Ponil route where you
will not risk being endangered by hunting. A wounded
bear can be a raging menace.
2
2. This trail rises sharply and is criss-crossed by an old
wagon road that once serviced a farm on Wilson Mesa.
West of the 'trail rests an old seeder, as well as other
relics of farm implements.
3. This picturesque park presents perhaps the most awe
Mountains.
inspiring view of Baldy and TOUC~-Me-Not
You may want to spend some time exploring the old
ruins in this heavenly meadow and watch for elk, often
seen watering at one of $he reservoirs. The trail to
Pueblano descends immediately south of the intermittent spring at the main group of decaying ruins.
4. Pueblano is a gateway to the Baldy country. Superb
campsites can be found in either direction from (the
base of the old wagon road that drops from Wilson
Mesa. Pueblano still shows evidence of the thriving
logging community that once flourished here.
Notice the incredible difference in the vegetation growing on the south facing slope (facing the sun) and that
on the north facing slope (lying in deep shadows where
ground moisture is retained).
5. At Pueblano Ruins you camp midst a ghost town that
echos with sounds of logging days.
6. Between Ponil and Pueblano you will be traveling
through the lush greenery of South Ponil Canyon
abounding with wildlife. Old bridges in the valley formerly enabled logging wagons to cross the stream even
when swollen with high water. If you are observant,
you can still see the railroad bed of the Cimarron and
Northwestern.
7. Just past the second stream crossing en route from
Ponil, a large slab of rock rises right of the road. Behind the small cottonwood that has recently sprouted
in front of it, you can see a cross that was etched into
the rock by Penitentes several hundred years ago.
Converted by early Spanish explorers, the Penitentes
were excommunicated from the Catholic Church when
they persisted in actually crucifying one of their members each year at Easter.
PUEBLANO RUINS TO DEAN SKYLINE & NEW DEAN
1. Pueblano Ruins to Dean Skyline and New Dean offers
several possibilities of routes. The hike up Doe Canyon
to Head of Dean is one of the most picturesque and
least frequented routes on the ranch. Hiking ithe South
Ponil road to the Spring Canyon cutoff is the traditional
way.
2. In the mouth of the canyon just opposite the Spring
Canyon cutoff, remains an old logging flume used to
bring timber down from Wilson Mesa. Logs were skidded down this dry flume into South Ponil Canyon where
they were loaded onto wagons or railroad cars. If Dean
Skyline is your destination, be sure to fill your canteens
here.
3. As you can ascertain from the proximity of contour lines
on your topographic map, this trail requires plenty of
stamina. The view of Baldy and the Spanish Peaks (in
Colorado) rewards your exertions.
4. Here the trail hits an old road. I f you are proceeding to
New Dean, take the trail that swings into Spring Canyon
past an inoperative windmill. If Dean Skyline is your
goal, turn left and follow the Skyline jeep trail.
5. An old logging camp once dominated this site. All the
cabins have been destroyed, but some of itheir foundations still remain. If you look closely where the trail
crosses the dry stream bed, you may see the timbers
that used to support bridges for logging wagons.
6. Fossils of prehistoric plants are prevalent throughout
Dean Canyon. Budding paleontologisJts will be delighted
by specimens of prehistoric plants imprinted in rocks.
Please leave them for others to see.
7. From Head of Dean you can take the Skyline trail offering magnificent views or the Dean Canyon trail that
gradually declines to New Dean.
8. Here you will see the shambles of Old Dean, one of the
original camps when Philmont was first esdablished as
Philturn Rocky Mountain Scout Camp from 1938 to 1941.
Now called Upper Dean Cow, water is usually not available here.
MAP 11
Pueblano to Copper Park -9.6 kilometers (6.0miles)
PUEBLANO TO COPPER PARK
1. Near Pueblano you can see Baldy Mountain rising out
of the western vee of South Ponil Canyon. At dawn a
soft glow of sunrise plays on the peak ltransforming it
into a fiery ember glowing above the tree tops.
2. From these ruins of a once prosperous lumbering camp,
the trail meanders up the north fork tributary of the
South Ponil to French Henry. So picturesque is this
trail, tha~tmany crews elect to hike out of their way to
become infatuated with its pristine beauty.
3. Along this aeriated stream, flanked with wildlife and
bouquets of wildflowers, old beaver dams form crystal
clear pools teeming with trout lurking for flies.
4. All along the South Ponil remain evidences of placer
mining - old sluice boxes, large rock piles and mining
equipmenit. French Henry Mill Site is your first taste of
the massive mining operations carried on in the Baldy
area. Named after Frenchman Henri Buruel, who obtained mining rights from Lucien Maxwell in the 1860s,
the French Henry Mine was operated on and off for
many years as the price of gold fluctuated. It was last
reopened in the fall of 1938 and worked until Christmas
of that same year when it was closed due to low yield
and high expenses in extracting gold from the ore. A
tramway ran 425 meters (1400 feet) to the mine entrance high on the ridge looming above the camp. The
Ponil II entrance to the Aztec Mine lies on the south
slope just beyond French Henry. Inquire about mine
tours with the staff w'ho live at French Henry. Be sure
to try your hand at gold panning here too.
5. From French Henry the trail climbs a rugged 265 meters (870 feet) before opening into a paradise filled with
mountain splendor at Copper Park. Underground water
keeps the grass lush and green.
6. Copper Park derives its name from the blue-green copper float visible in this high mountain meadow. Near
the middle a shaft was sunk and a core removed to
ascertain the geological prospects beneath it. A tunnel
of the Aztec Mine runs below Copper Park.
All campsites are in the spruce-fir forest west of the
meadow. To help Copper Park reltain a lasting beauty,
please do not build any new fire lays, and use only
those campsites marked with routed wood blocks. Your
water emanates from a pipe leading oust of the Deep
Tunnel Mine. Between 1900 and 1936 the Mclntyre
Brothers drilled this mine completely through Baldy
Mountain seeking to discover the "mother lode." They
struck only water.
Please do not disturb any artifacts left by the miners,
including old tin cans and bottles. Help us preserve
these remains intact so campers after you may enjoy the
same sense of discovery you did. The past awaits you
in these hills.
Pueblano to Baldy Skyline -4.7 k~lometers(2.9 miles)
Head of Dean to Baldy Skyline -3.7 kilometers (2.3 miles)
Baldy Skyline to Miranda -3.7 kllometers (1.9 miles)
Baldy Skyline to Baldy Town - 6 3 kilometers (3.9 miles)
.P.#&ano to Ewell's Park- 6.4 k~lometers(4.0 miles)
PUEBLANO 81 HEAD OF DEAN TO MIRANDA,
EWELL'S PARK & BALDY TOWN
1. From Pueblano you will be traveling through PhilBaldy
mont's most recent acquisition (1963)-the
country- from which several million dollars worth of
gold were taken between 1866 and 1940. This 10,095
acre tract was purchased through the generosity of
Mr. Norton Clapp.
2. These ruins mark the terminus of the Cimarron and
Northwestern Railroad that used to haul1 timber from
ithis prosperous logging camp.
Town lived the Spanish-American laborers in a settlement called Chihuahua. Most of the log cabins were
consumed in ithe fireplaces of the last residents. The
staff can tell you more about the intriguing history of
this gold mining center.
7. Head of Dean, a large meadow at the head of Dean
Canyon, has plenty of superb campsites midst its
bordering Ponderosa forest. Water, however, is precious (the spring flows at a slim trickle), and must be
judiciously conserved.
3. At this second group of ruins, the trail forks. The right
fork leads to Ewell's Park and Ute Meadows; the left
to Miranda.
4. Ewell's Park, named after an early resident of Baldy
Town, was once a pasture and corral for horses used
by the miners. The spring here is usually dependable.
From here a trail winds uphill until it unites with an
old mining road leading into Baldy Town.
5. Underneath this ridge lies a honeycomb of mining
tunnels of the Aztec Mine. Continue straight ahead
where the trail meets the road.
6. Baldy Town was the mill center for the Aztec Mine
between 1868 and 1942. The population once numbered 2000! The school house has been reconstructed
(it's now the commissary where you pick up food) and
the foundations of many other structures are still
clearly visible. On the open, rocky slope below Baldy
8. Because ithe three old mining roads that converge
here are all marked as trails on your topographic map,
this intersection can be confusing. Take a compass
bearing or two to confirm your direction.
9. The shortest route into Miranda is the trail that emanates behind the burro corral, which is just beyond
the mine dumps lef~tby the Baldy Mountain Placer
Company. Both the corral and mine dumps are visible
from the road.
10. Miranda is a huge sloping meadow surrounded by
aspen. A stream slices through the meadow in a manmade ditch. Miranda is named after Guadalupe Miranda who, along with Carlos Beaubien, was one of the
original owners of a vast land grant of which Philmont
is less than a tenth. Rare black-footed ferrets (a
weasel-type animal) are thought to inhabit this area.
MAP 1:
MaxweN to EweN's Park-5.1 k~lometers(3.2 miles)
Maxwell to Copper Park- 8.5 kilomefers (5.3 miles)
MaxweN to Ute Meadows -3.8 kilometers (2.4 miles)
MAXWELL TO UTE MEADOWS, EWELL'S PARK & COPPER PARK
1. Your bus will drop you here. A leisurely hike takes you to Maxwell Camp.
Be sure to turn left at the meadow located behind a thin veil of fir and
spruce. The meadow is sometimes mistaken for Maxwell Camp which is
one half kilometer beyond.
2. Named after the great 'land baron of the Southwest, Lucien Maxwell (who
once owned nearly two million acres!), Maxwell is an ideal camp to
acclimate your crew. Notice the old stone fireplace on the east side of
the meadow.
3. Miranda is a botanical wonder because of the variety of plant life found
here. The Transition, Canadian and Hudsonian life zones are seemingly
scrambled into an all encompassing one. You may see elk in this region,
as well as beaver, weasels, wild turkey and others.
4. An enchanting hike up UzteCreek takes you to Ute Meadows Camp. Excellent campsites are located either direction from the old pond shown
on your map. A short distance above the pond, right of the trail, you will
see a miner's cabin constructed with hand hewn logs -please do not
camp in this cabin.
Look for Bristlecone pines in this area, distinguished by their foxtail like
limbs bristling with needles in all directions. To get to Ewell's Park, climb
'the embankment from the cabin and look closely for the old mining road
that traverses the south facing slope.
5. At Black Horse Camp you should drop your packs and hike a short distance upstream to see the Black Horse Mill Site and its relics of a glorious past. This old stamp mill, operated by "Baron" Phillip Van Zuylen
between 1893 and 1907, crushed gold ore from the Black Horse Mine.
6. This is by far the most intriguing route from Miranda to Baldy Town. Aflter
gradually ascending from the valley floor on an old mining road, you
encounter the dumps of the Rebed Chief group one kilometer beyond and
pass the Montezuma Mine shortly thereafter.
7. Baldy Town was formerly the center of a prosperous mining district. Ask
the staff to point out the remains of the old hotel, built in 1916 to relieve
a housing shortage. The school house has been restored -you pick up
food there now. Below the town a number of settling ponds used to catch
waste material from the mill.
8. A steep trail (composed of several old mining roads, mostly obliterated
through time) crosses Aztec Ridge. If you prefer easier going, take the
mining road that makes an end run around the ridge. A labyrinth of Aztec
Mine tunnels lays beneath the entire ridge. Please stay out of all mine
shafts and test pits.
9. Copper Park, though 3200 meters (10,500 feet) eleva~tion,is enveloped by
towering peaks and ridges. All campsites are located in the forest immediately west of the meadow.
Grande - 12.6 kilometers (7.
Upper Dean C.ow iv visto Grande - 10.3 kilometers
MAP 14 Head of Dean tr.
,Y.-
r
HEAD OF DEAN &
UPPER DEAN COW TO VlSTO GRANDE
1. Begin your journey to Visto Grande by following the
jeep road through the east branch of the spacious Head
of Dean meadow and up the ridge.
2. Resist [the temptation to turn south through the gate on
this jeep trail- it soon crosses the ranch boundary
and is badly washed. Continue on the jeep trail that
follows the ridge and drops into Santa Claus Canyon
just inside the boundary fence.
2
3. Near a waterless windmill are several great campsites.
Wood is plentifull, but lthe nearest water is at Head of
Dean, New Dean or the Cimarron River, depending upon
your approach.
4. Near the head of Bear Canyon the jeep trail splits. The
east fork is longer; the west is older and steeper. Take
your pick. They merge about one kilometer (.6 mile)
down canyon. Both routes are beset with rocks- be
careful with your footing.
5. Cross the highway and (then pass over the Cimarron
River via the suspension type footbridge. Immediately
across the river is an old campsite that should be used
only i f a dire emergency necessitates it. Any water pro-
cured from the Cimarron River requires twice the normal purification dosage.
6. The spring at Visto Grande has been known to dry up
in periods of exltreme drought, but water can usually
at least be dipped out of the spring box. Inquire about
the availability of water here before departing Head of
Dean.
Just west of the spring twin Gambel oaks tower above
their nearby peers. These magnificent trees are over
12 meters (40 feet) tall and 64 centimeters (25 inches)
in diameter - dimensions usually never attained by
their species.
John Westfall, director of the Bench Camp in 1947,
wrote the Philmont Hymn. As you look toward U'te Park
and Baldy Mountain, you will understand the source of
his inspiration - "purple mountains rise against an
azure sky."
7. Watch carefully for this faint, primitive road, if your
hike begins from Upper Dean Cow. If you miss it, continue on to New Dean and take the trail toward Turkey Lookout.
Copper Park to Baldy Mountain summit-3.0 kilometers (1.9 miit
Baldy Town to Baidy Mountain summit
5.3 kilometers (3.3 mtrer,
Miranda to Baidy Mountain summit via Black Horse
7.1 kiiometers
(4.4 miles)
-
-
BALDY MOUNTAIN SIDE HIKES
Three basic routes may be taken up Baldy. Plan to make any of these rigorous climbs on your layover day. Most crews choose to make a round trip by
descending a different route. A detailed description of your alternatives
follows.
1. From Copper Park-This is the quickest, easiest approach to the top o f
Baldy, although the trail becomes progressively steeper and rockier.
Where the road makes a sweeping bend above Copper Park (just before
you reach the Deep Tunnel Mine), the trail starts upward. After fifty
meters you encounter two switchbacks. The trail continues about one
and one half kilometers up the valley before it dissipates in a field of
rock. This rocky field is best negotiated by zigzagging through it in switchback fashion gradually ascending one step at a time, while breathing
deeply. After attaining the tundra slope on the saddle, pick your way
through the boulders to the top.
If you are scheduled to camp at Copper Park, keep an eye peeled for
the rare snowshoe rabbits that inhabit this area. Their web-like feet
support them well when traversing winter and spring snow fields.
moderately difficult mining trail proceeds in a
2. From Baldy Town - A
weslterly direction to the saddle south of Baldy. From here a faint trail
rises through a scree slope to the summit.
Near Baldy Town you can clearly see an avalanche trough (in the steep
draw left of the peak) that has become elongated from snow slides in
recent winters.
3. From Miranda -The
route is long and strenuous even for well conditioned backpackers- it is recommended only if you have climbed another peak on Philmont first. Start by ascending the trail to Black Horse.
Then you bushwhack up the draw through a dense forest to the saddle
between Baldy and Touch-Me-Not. The going is painfully rugged and
slow. Map and compass are imperative.
4. On Top - In bygone days Baldy Town folk took Sunday trips to the top
of Baldy where the view is unequalled. Baldy Mountain was the fertile
womb of an active mining district. Far below you to the west lies the
slumbering Moreno Valley where Elizabethtown, the first incorporated
town in New Mexico was once home for nearly 8000 people, most of whom
were engaged in mining.
Wheeler Peak, New Mexico's highest mountain at 401 1 meters (13,161
feet) elevation, rises across the valley midst a cluster of sister peaks. To
the soulthwest is Eagle Nest Lake (8200 feet or 2500 meters elevation)
with a small town nestled beside it. Just below the Baldy summit on the
west, you can see the entrance to the Mystic Mine, a copper mine. It was
discovered when some Indians showed a pretty blue-green rock they
found on Baldy to several soldiers from Fort Union, 112 kilometers (70
miles) south of Philmont. The finding of copper led to the discovery of
gold several months later. Although millions of dollars worth of gold were
mined from the Baldy country, owners and operators were continually
frustrated by "high grading." High grading is a form of stealing that occurred when miners sliplped high grade ore into their cuffs or boots just
before terminating work each day.
Conditions for Climbing Baldy - Leave your packs in your campsite.
Take only your map, compass, canteen, poncho, a warm jacket or sweatshirt, your crew first aid kit and your lunch. Keep in m'ind that the wind
chill factor atop the peak can be great even during the summer. Because
the sun easily penetrates the thin veil of atmosphere above timberline,
you will need some type of sunburn or sunscreen lotion (especially if you
are (ight complexioned), as well as dark glasses.
All crews going to the top of Baldy must have adequate leadership and
must stay together- both up and down. Remember, m'ines in the Baldy
country are unsafe to enter, except for the Ponil II enitrance to the Aztec
Mine near French Henry, where mine tours are conducted daily by the
staff. Please do not disturb any artifacts left by the miners, but leave them
intact so others may enjoy them as you did.
Start early! Clouds usually 'billow up in late morning, followed by ominous
thunderstorms in the afternoon. Anyone on the mountain at this time is in
extreme peril of being struck by lightning. By starting early you can reach
the top and descend below timberline before any storms threaten. If you
do get caught in a thunderstorm, descend to timlberline as quickly as is
prudent, without endangering yourselves to injury from fa'lling.
Use only one of the three routes described above. Do not attempt to
negotiate the face. Please do not erect flags or towers on top. You may
sign the register, however. If you want to leave your mark on Philmont,
do a worthwhile conservation project under the supervision of one of
Philmont's expertly trained conservationists. Enjoy your climb!
Philmont Central Country
MAP
I.
-
Cathedral R o d to arrwrrlM Pia L o r n vrrv
,U.Okllbmeteh (61.2 mM&J
Ute Springs to Sswmtli- 6.6 kilometers (4.1 mNesl
CATHEDRAL ROCK & UTE SPRINGS TO SAWMILL
1. You disembark from your bus about one and a half
kilometers beyond Webster Reservoir, built by George
H. Webster, Jr. in 1910 to irrigate his Urraca Ranch,
and just short of the bridge over Cimarroncito Creek.
To get to Ute Springs simply follow the road up Ute
Gulch. If Cathedral Rock is your starting camp, watch
carefully for the jeep trail that veers abruptly to the left
a short way up the Ute Gulch road. The intersection is
unmarked.
2. Cathedral Rock is a beautifully secluded camp with
towering cathedral like spires soaring from the head
of the canyon. Fed from melting snow and bubbling
springs, Cimarroncito Creek gushes amongst the boulders beneath Cathedral Rock. Trout thrive in it. If you
select an itinerary that begins here, you will need to
buy a fishing license at the Headquarters Trading Post.
Old wire-wrapped wooden water pipes are strewn about
the vicinity of Cathedral Rock Camp. Installed by
George Webster in 1907 to supply water for Cimarron,
the curved wooden slats used to form the pipes were
cut from Douglas firs and then tightly wrapped with
heavy gauge wire, When the fir swelled from the water,
a very tight seal was created. These wooden pipes
lasted nearly sixty years! Many wonder if their modern
cast iron counterparts will do as well. Time will tell.
3. A newly constructed trail takes you to Cimarroncito
Reservoir. Watch for traffic as you hike the road around
the reservoir.
4. Here a choice of routes to Cimarroncito confronts you.
The trail winding through Lower Cito is by far the quickest, but the trail past a commanding overlook at Window Rock and through the tranquil, photogenic meadows of Hidden Valley are by far more inspiring. The
trail rises to Window Rock on a steady ten per cent
grade that permits you to take in magnificent views as
you go.
5. Belay on! Climbing! Tension! These are familiar shouts
at Cimarroncito where rock climbing and rappelling on
precipitous Hogback Ridge highlight your trek. "Cito,"
as it is affectionately called, is the crossroads of Philmont where many trails converge.
6. Ute Springs Camp lies in a valley of Ponderosa pines between the Grouse Canyon trail and the cutoff to Hidden
Valley, both of which intersect the road. By far the best
campsites lie next to the stream, well away from the
road. If the stream is dry, you can usually get water
from the spring.
7' Sawmill
was the scene Of a
recent logging operation. The entire canyon is great for watching
birds and observing nature.
8. Sawmill Camp sits on a hill just west of the confluence
of the two forks of Sawmill Creek.
MAP 17
Cathedral Rock fo Cimarroncito via Lowel Cifo -3.7 kilometers (2.3 miles)
Cimarroncito fo Harlan -8.3 kilometers (5.2 mrles)
CATHEDRAL ROCK TO ClMARRONClTO TO HARLAN
1. The bus will drop you just past this intersection. You
several sticks along the trail as you near the camp. In
can ramble up Cimarroncito Creek to Cathedral Rock
the in'terest of conserving firewood, please keep your
cooking fires small. They'll be easier to extinguish and
Camp, or opt for the jeep trail that parallels the stream
on lthe north.
clean as well.
2. Cathedral Rock offers splendid campsites nestled in the
afternoon shadows of Cathedral Rock. Trout fishing
here is tops. If you plan to fish, buy your license and
trout stamp at the Headquarters Trading Post.
3. A newly constructed trail leads you up to the road. Just
below the spillway for Cimarroncito Reservoir on the
south side of the narrow valley are several crevices that
provide a natural air conditioning. Cool air streams
forth from them even during summer's most sultry days.
4. If Harlan is your goal, in the interest of time, it will behoove you to pass by Waite Phillip's hunting lodge and
through the elongated meadow of Lower Cito. If time
permits, the journey to Window Rock and through Hidden Valley offers scenery with beauty that defies description.
5. Cimarroncito (meaning "little wild one" in Spanish)
stretches more than a mile through this spacious valley.
This camp is frequently visited by nightly marauders
scrounging for food -bears. Most crews wisely leave
their food in the commissary overnight.
Because wood is scarce at Cimarroncito, it may be advantageous for each member of your crew to pick up
6. Aspen Springs, an aesthetically captivating trail camp,
is just a short stroll from Cimarroncito. To find water
here, walk east from the old lean-to down the dry creek
bed. An underground streamlet surfaces where the
slope breaks sharply downward.
7. Be certain you select the correct trail a't this juncture.
Deer Lake Mesa lies directly before you (east). Walk
down the jeep trail a short way until you see the foot
path veering up the mesa. You will be continually climbing the rest of the way to Harlan. Perched on the side
of the mesa, this trail bestows a spectacular yiew of the
Tooth Ridge behind you.
8. Harlan Camp derives its name from the chief proponent
of the St. Louis, Rocky Mountain and Pacific Railroad,
that once ran through Cimarron Canyon, Thomas P.
Harlan.
From the ridge near the camp you can see past Cimarron to the mesas rising from the eastern New Mexico
plains, the Tooth of Time Ridge and north in,to Colorado.
At night the distant headlights of cars winding through
Cimarron Canyon seem to be in a different world. Deer
Lake Mesa makes a fascinating side hike - migratory
birds frequently pause here for a brief pit stop.
MAP 18
-
,
CimarronO7ru m VlSlb Wmae
72.7 kilome,,., ,'.S mNes)
Webster Parks to Visto Grande - 72.4 kilometers (7.7 miles)
CIMARRONCITO & WEBSTER PARKS TO VlSTO GRANDE
1. The trek from Cimarroncito to Visto Grande is long and exhausting. Plan
on breaking camp early and spending most of the day hiking. Start directly north past the Cimarroncito campfire circle, ringed with colorful
totem poles.
2. Webster Parks is a series of beautiful meadows at the foot of Cimarroncito Peak. Check with the Cito staff about the current status of the
intermi'ttent spring here. The campsites are located in the uppermost
park where plenty of ground cover and a terrific view of the north slopes
of the Tooth of Time Ridge await you.
3. If you've already picked up food at Cimarroncito, this is the most direct
route to Visto Grande. Be sure to fill your canteens from Grouse Canyon
Creek. Although primarily a nocturnal creature, you may spot a bobcat
in this vicinity. Bobcats are noted for their stealth.
4. As you can interpolate from the contour lines on your map, this is the
best route from Cimarroncito to Visto Grande.
5. Another great view of the Tooth of Time Ridge greets you near Ute Park
Pass. Ansel Adams, the famous landscape photographer, took several
photos here that were published in a 1962 Boy's Life feature on Philmont.
6. Devil's Wash Basin becomes a stagnant quagmire during the summer.
The reservoir about two kilometers northeast usually offers better water,
although you may still need to strain it through a clean bandanna. Both
water sources require a double dose of purification to insure your good
health.
7. A shallow lake sometimes forms over the hard pan at Upper Bench in
wet seasons, but don't count on it. Several appealing campsites are
localted in the Ponderosa forest west of the meadow. Ponderosas and
scrub oaks typify the Transition Life zone, that generally ranges from
about 2200 to 2600 meters (7200 to 8500 feet) elevation.
Bald and golden eagles are occasionally seen hovering overhead using
their keen eyesight to spot rodents, the primary source of food for these
carnivorous birds.
8. Visto Grande abounds with grasses and forbs in a meadow overlooking
Ute Park. Baldy Mountain, where miltions of dollars worth of gold were
taken, looms against the horizon. Left of Baldy soars Touch-Me-Not
which often becomes a "purple mountain rising against an azure sky"
at dusk.
In dry years the spring at Visto Grande has ceased flowing. Even so you
may be able to raise the lid over the spring and dip out water. Use a
clean pot so you won't contaminate the spring.
-
a-ncito
to Clark's Fork via Lower Cito
4.6 kilametem 62.9 m
Bimarroncito to Clark's Fork via Hidden Valley - 7.4 kilometers (4.6 miles)
@ark's Fork to Ponderosa
3.4 k~lomefers(2.1 miles)
-
CIMARRONCITO TO CLARK'S FORK, PONDEROSA
& UPPER CLARK'S FORK
1. You have two choices of routes from Cimarroncito. The trail to Cito
Hunting Lodge, built by Waite Phillips, is best for making good dime, but
the trail through Hidden Valley offers a never-to-be-forgotten visual
experience.
2. Ideal campsites beckon you at Aspen Springs. To find water proceed
down the narrow valley in front of an old shelter, past several stagnant
pools until you see a streamlet breaking out through the rocks.
3. Window Rock opens toward a spectacular panorama of mesas and
prairies on the eastern horizon. Shortly afterward the trail drops 195
meters (640 feet) through a notch in the hogback above Cathedral Rock
down to Cimarroncito Reservoir. This is Cimarron's water supply -your
cooperation in protecting i t from contamination will be appreciated. The
dam and spillway were built by George H. Webster, Jr. in 1907.
4. Clark's Fork is a perfect camp from which to end your trek with a
final assaultt of Shaefer's Peak and the Tooth. Ask the staff at Clark's
Fork about the current availability of water at Upper Clark's Fork and
Ponderosa.
5. Upper Clark's Fork is a small trail camp with a usually dependable
source of water in Bear Creek. The trail from here to Shaefer's Pass was
built by campers to fulfill the conservation required for their Arrowhead patch.
Clark's Fork and Cimarroncito are in $he heart of bear country. Bears
are both diurnal (active during the day) and nocturnal (active at night)
in nature. Although Philmont's black bears (a black bear may be brown
in color) are not characteristically ornery, they can be dangerous if
provoked. They possess crushing strength and can create havoc with
one swipe of a paw. Under no circumstances should you separate a
mother bear from her cubs or otherwise antagonize these wild animals.
Sharp, loud noises will usually frighten bears away from your campsite.
Hang your food and smellables high at night. If a bear does get your
food, let him have it - food can be replaced.
6. Ponderosa offers remote trail camping on a 'thick bed of pine needles.
Wildlife is abundant in this vicinity. You may see diurnal creatures such
as deer, elk and turkey and hear nocturnal visitors including grey foxes
and coyotes, yelping from nearby mesas.
MAP 20 Harlan to Sawmlll via Devil's Wash Basin
-
14.2 kilometers (8.1
Harlan to SawmNI vie Clmarronclto - 15.0 kilometers (8.3 m l l q
d
HARLAN TO SAWMILL
1. Small fence lizards inhabit the rocky slopes around
Harlan. They are harmless and quite playful.
One of the longest, most demanding and least traveled
of Philmont's trails crosses Deer Lake Mesa from Harlan to Sawmill. Be sure to start early.
2. When you arrive at this meadow, you must choose
between the old jeep trail that angles northwest up the
mesa and the longer, but more gentle, trail via Ute
Gulch and Cimarroncito. In 1973 the road up Deer
Lake Mesa, along with several others, was closed to
vehicular traffic to preserve the wilderness atmosphere
that pervades Philmont.
P
cn
3. You may wish to drop your packs and take a short side
excursion 'to Deer Lake. Its water level fluctuates
greatly depending upon current precipitation. Migratory
birds, frequently pausing here in the spring and fall,
are also occasionally seen during the summer. Watch
for mallards and sand hill cranes.
4. This fairly reliable spring is located a short distance
upstream from a small reservoir. Camping near the
reservoir is serenely pleasant.
5. A natural bowl with a prominent rimrock <thatencloses
shady Ponderosas and an array of grass surrounds
Devil's Wash Basin. The water you extract from this
basin is stagnant and requires straining and a double
shot of purification. Be sure to fill your canteens, however, because there will be no more opportunity for
doing so until you reach Sawmill Creek.
6. A wagon road over Ute Park Pass once provided access to the mountain resort community of Ute Park.
Interspersed with ridges and valleys, this region can
be extremely perplexing. Take the uphill jeep road leading southwest from the pass. Any lingering doubts you
have will be erased when you reach Sawmill Canyon
- it is readily distinguishable.
7. Sawmill Canyon and vicinity is laced with logging roads
of fairly recent vintage. Turn right up canyon. Porcupines are sometimes seen here, as well as over most
of the ranch. A plantigrade animal, the Porcupine walks
on the soles of its feet and descends trees backwards.
Porcupines are quite destructive of trees because they
eat the tops of conifers, stunting their future growth.
8. After this tiring, blistering journey, you can savor a hot
shower at Sawmill. A four passenger Cherokee 180
aircraft crashed about six kilometers (3.7 miles) west
of here, just off Philmont property, in February 1975
after stalling in high winds. Two of the four passengers
survived and were rescued after two days of intensive
searching midst high snow drifts and temperatures well
below freezing. One of the passengers died of hypothermia and frostbite because no one had matches to
light a fire!
SAWMILL TO CYPHER'S MINE & CLEAR CREEK
1. Fill all your canteens at Sawmill - the next source of
water is at Cypher's Mine or Clear Creek, whichever is
your destination. The jeep road out of Sawmill becomes
progressively steeper so begin with a deliberate, steady
pace. Many have acclaimed the trail to Clear Creek "the
most difficult on Philmont." An early start is imperative.
2. ,The right fork of this jeep road provides by far the most
P
exhilarating views. As you traverse this ethereal ridge,
notice the Foxtail pines, so-called because their limbs
are surrounded with a bushy shroud of needles, resembling the tail of a fox. This entire ridge is in the Hudsonian life zone, similar to the area near Hudson Bay in
northern Canada.
w
3. Five trails (both jeep and foot) diverge from the ridge
above Cypher's Mine - it may be worthwhile to confirm
your route by taking several compass bearings on nearby peaks. Never trust trail signs - they may become
twisted in the wrong direction.
4. A steep 310 metter (1000 foot) descent brings you 'to
Cypher's Mine, situated in a narrow canyon with a small
creek plummeting through it.
5. This section of trail, laced with steep switchbacks, is
super difficult. Put your slowest hikers to the fore and
keep your group together. Deep, measured breathing is
best when climbing.
6. Comanche Peak Camp is located at this trail junction.
The sites are marked with numbers routed into wood
blocks fastened to trees.
7. Devastatingly high winds blew down several acres of
trees in this area during the winter of 1973. Many of
them were corkbark firs, noted for their light gray bark
that compresses much like cork.
8. Mount Phillips, formerly called Clear Creek Mountain,
was renamed in 1960 in honor of the then living Waite
Phillips who gave these magnificent mountains for us
to enjoy. The panorama from the top, right at timberline, is unmatched anywhere. Delicate forgeit-me-nots
sprinkled amongst the rocks offer a contrastingly gentle
beauty.
All campsites here are in a dense spruce-fir forest on
the leeward side of the mountain, protected from wind
and thunderstorms. You still need to be well prepared
to withstand the vicissitudes of high elevation camping,
however. Snow can usually be found here in June to
melt for water. It can and has snowed on Mount Phillips
during all months of the year!
9. From Mount Phillips you descend over 450 meters (1500
feet) to Clear Creek Camp along the headwaters of Rayado Creek. The trail loops into the Cimarron Wildlife
Area owned by the state of New Mexico. A maze of
logging roads obscures the trail so stick together and
be alert for trail markers.
CYPHER'S MINE TO CLARK'S FORK & ClMARRONClTO
1. The Contention and Thunder Mines at Cyphers were
initiated by Thomas W. Knott and Charles L. Welles in
1880. Then Charlie Cyphers worked them for about 20
years after the turn of the century. Known locally as "an
old mountain goat," Charlie was reported to have
"backpacked" loads of 45 kilograms (100 pounds) or
more into his mining camp! Your pack should be a few
pounds shy of that. After showing only meager profits
for his efforts, Charlie finally closed operations.
Charlie's Mine, the Contention, extending several hundred feet into the mountain, has been carefully shored
and is inspected every two weeks during the summer
so that tours can be conduclted. While you're here visit
the museum containing artifacts of days gone by.
Spotted and striped skunks frolic about Cyphers as
well as a number of areas on the ranch. Unless provoked, they usually are not "obnoxious."
2. The North Fork route is rugged and primitive. Towering
moss laden cliffs dripping with spring water, outcroppings of red shale and lovely Rocky Mountain maples
highlight this trail. If it is raining, portions of this trail
can be slick and treacherous.
3. The Middle Fork trail follows the remnants of an old
mining road that was devastated by a flash flood i n
1969. Many aspen were toppled by torrents of water.
Beaver periodically work this area, engineering dams
out of aspen limbs to form a moat around their homes.
These industrious creatures are usually best observed
at dusk and dawn. Along with prairie dogs, bats and
others, beavers are one of Philmont's colonial animals
(they live in a colony).
4. A wide variety of plants and wildflowers grow in the
immediate vicinity of Cito Hunting Lodge, built by
Waite Phillips.
5. Cimarroncito lies in a beautiful valley beneath Steamboat Rock jutting out from Hogback Ridge. As at Cyphers, firewood is scarce here, so you may want to pick
up a few sticks on your way into camp.
6. Here you behold a picture post card shot of Cimarroncito Reservoir and Cathedral Rock. George H. Webster,
Jr. built this dam in 1907 to collect water to sell to the
residents of Cimarron. Now owned by Cimarron, fishing
is prohibited.
7. Both Clark's Fork and Cimarroncito are havens for Philmont midnight marauders - bears. Be sure to follow
the instructions of your ranger and the camp staff to
avoid unnecessary difficulties.
RP 23
pher's Mine to Black Mountain - 7:7 k;lomefers (4.8 $ifM)
- 36k Mountain to Beaubien- 4.4 kilometers (2.7 miles)
CYPHER'S MINE TO BLACK MOUNTAIN & BEAUBIEN
1. Charlie Cyphers operated a mine here from 1900 to the early 1920s. After
several productive years, his hopes dwindled with his profits. At Cyphers
you can visit the old assay office, now a museum, filled with paraphernalia from these former mining days.
Magnetite, abundant near the Thunder and Contention Mines at Cyphers,
is the only iron ore with considerable magnetic properties. Expeditions
headed for Black Mountain and Beaubien should use the circle trail heading south from the cabins. A number of mine tailings, caved in shafts and
placer pits dot the trail en route to Lambert's Mine.
2. Lambert's Mine offers limited trail camping. The creek provides ample
water and wood is pllentiful, but the sites are sparse. Lambert's Mine was
formerly a mining camp. You can see some cabin ruins and a large rock
slide !below a caved in mine. In 1969 this area was deluged by high water
from an unusually heavy downpour.
3. The trail up Comanche Pass is particularly steep on the Lambert's side.
Breathe slowly, take slow, deliberate steps and follow all switchbacks
and you"ll find climbing a bit easier.
4. One kilometer albove Black Mountain Camp a caved in cabin used by
miners years ago still persis.ts. Further on you can see a sluice box and
a canal used for placer mining.
5. In 1897 a reltired Army colonel, Samuel Matthews, carried on a hydraulic
mining operation along the north fork of Urraca Creek. He and his ten
employees packed in 180 meters (600 feet) of pipe and several thousand
board feet of lumber. In 1898, when the creek ran dry, he left never to
return. There are no shafts at Black Mountain, but you can still see the
pipe Matthews hauled in and his cabin, which has been renovated by the
staff.
6. Nearly three kilometers (1.9) miles of beautifully constructed trail take
you upward 245 meters (800 feet) out of Black Mountain Camp. Another
kilometer or so of gradually graded trail takes you 120 meters (400 feet)
down into the rincon bonita (beautiful corner) just above Beaubien Camp,
named after one of the grantees of a 1.8 million acre Spanish land grant.
The validity of this grant was challenged several times, but was finally
upheld by the United States Supreme Court in the case of "United States
versus Maxwell Land Grant Company" in 1887.
7. Zeke Scher and George Crouter, a famous wilderness writerlphotographer team visited Beaubien in 1974, among other camps, and produced
an article in the June 15, 1975 issue of the EMPIRE magazine section of
the Denver Post.
CYPHER'S MINE TO RED HILLS
1. Although actively mined around the turn of the century, compared with the mining in the Baldy country,
Cypher's was a "piker."
Three options are available to crews hiking from
Cypher's Mine to Red Hills. Most crews elect to climb
Comanche Peak (and possibly Mount Phillips, too)
and then descend to Red Hills. Another popular route
is to climb Comanche Pass and negotiate the ridge
leading to the summit of Big Red before dropplng
into Comanche Creek.
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2. In the saddle below Comanche Peak, you have a magnificent view of Touch-Me-Not, Baldy and Costilla
Peak. The trail up Comanche Peak is one of the most
physically exerting ones on the ranch.
3. You may desire to drop your packs here and take a
side excursion to Mount Phillips. Allow at least two
hours. The extra time you spend hiking will be amply
rewarded by the breath-taking vista from the top.
4. Mount Phillips, formerly called Clear Creek Mountain,
was renamed in honor of Waite Phillips who donated
this vast property for us to enjoy. Early in the summer
vou will find snow on the mountain. Look for the
berticle angle bench marks on top. These three altitude markers were positioned by the United States
Coast and Geodetic Survey, Department of the Interior.
5. If you are proficient at navigational skills and want to
avoid difficult climbing, take the contour road that
runs south from the ridge west of Cypher's. When you
reach this point along the road, simply take a compass bearing and bushwhack to the trail in the saddle
between Comanche Peak and Big Red.
6. This is the most strenuous alternative in proceeding
to Red Hills, especially the climb up Comanche Pass.
7. Between Comanche Pass and Bin Red the trail is virtually non-existent, though faint blazes are occasionally encountered amongst the trees. If you lose the
trail or blazes, continue upward along the crest of the
ridge until you eventually reach the summit of Big Red.
8. Red Hills trail camp lies at the head of Comanche
Creek in one of the most remote regions of Philmont.
If someone in your crew experiences the misfortune
of a serious injury or illness, report it to the nearest
staffed camp. Timewise this will probably be Phillips
Junction. ~e sure your cooking fire is dead out befo-re
you leave. The only sure way to tell is to run your
hand through the charred remains after extinguishing
the fire with a liberal sprinkling of water.
Please pick up all litter you find and burn
mind that aluminum foil does not burn,
disintegrates into small pieces that are not
able. All foil should be deposited in the
provided at your next sltaffed camp.
it. Keep in
but simply
biodegradrecepticles
RED HILLS TO CROOKED CREEK & PORCUPINE
1. Red Hills trail camp stretches in a deep canyon below Big Red near the
headwaters of Comanche Creek. Hiking to Porcupine you have a choice
of routes. You can follow Comanche Creek downstream to Rayado Creek
and on to Porcupine; or, climb the south shoulder of Big Red, follow the
skyline trail a short way and descend through Brownsea along Porcupine
Creek. The first route is easier; both are arrayed with scenic wonders.
The trail up Big Red begins just below Red Hills trail camp. Follow the
draw to the ridge sou,th of t'he peak.
2. Here you encounter the bubbling waters of Rayado Creek, a haven for
trout. Notice the scenic aspen, spruce and fir forest and meadows speckled with wildflowers as you go. The Douglas fir species you see is the
clhief source of timber in the United States.
3. Crooked Creek is a high mountain park tucked in a gentle valley above
Rayado Creek. Please no no,t use the fireplace in the rustic cabin here.
Several gaping holes in the chimney endanger the structure to fire.
The spring provides an excellent source of potable water. As a precautionary measure, however, all water should be purified unless the
staff Informs you that it is chlorinated. Animals usually die near water
and cattle may contaminate it. Salmonella, typhoid, polio, hepatitis, dysentery and cholera may all be contracted from unpurified water.
4. Trout fishing in the Rayado is tops, but immediately adjacent to the
campsites the stream quickly becomes "fished out." For best results hike
up or down stream a ways to try your luck. Many crews like to supplement their trail food with a trout dinner. Be sure you buy a fishing license
first.
5. This seldom used trail is faint and criss-crossed with dead fall, so watch
carefully lest you lose it. If you do lose it, continue descending in a southerly direction -eventually you will come upon the main trail paralleling
Rayado Creek.
6. At Brownsea you will find an old cabin near a delightful stream. Brownsea
is considered part of Porcupine Camp since the two are less than one
half kilometer apart.
On moonlit nights Porcupine is great for star gazing. An unimpeded view
through the unpolluted western skies enables you to catch glimpses of
shooting s1tarswhile contemplating a host of stars and constellations. You
can almost see footprints on the moon.
MAP 26
Red Hills to Black Mountain via Norih
Fork Urraca
6.6 kilometers (4.7 mlles)
-
Red HNls to Beaubien -8.5 kilometers
&3 mile
RED HILLS TO BLACK MOUNTAIN & BEAUBIEN
1. You start by climbing a steep pitch up Big Red. This
rugged trail begins just below the Red Hills campsites
and follows a shallow draw to the skyline.
4. This is one of the least used Philmont trails and is difficult due to excessive dead fall. If you lose the trail, follow the creek to Black Mountain camp.
2. As you reach the windswept ridge south of Big Red,
5. Near this trail fork is a caved in miner's cabin, a rem-
you may want to drop your packs and take a short walk
to the top. The entire panorama of southern Philmont
unfolds as you ascend Big Red. La Grulla Park, part of
the UU Bar Ranch owned by William Faudree, expands
high above Rayado Canyon to the south.
Orient your Philmont topographical map to recognize
other prominent land features. Remember, the easiest
way to orient your map is to align it with magnetic
north. Using this method (place the north arrow of your
compass along the magnetic north arrow at the base
of your map and pivot the map with the compass resting
on it until the compass arrows align), there is no need
to become entangled with the complexities of adjusting
for declination.
3. Three trails diverge from this point: the east fork leads
to Black Mountain camp over a scenic but seldom used
trail along Urraca Creek; the middle trail skirts the skyline over Bonito Peak to Beaubien; the westerly trail
plunges to Porcupine camp via Brownsea.
nant of gold rush days of yesteryear.
6. Beneath lofty Black Mountain bordering a sparkling
stream, Black Mountain camp is one of Philmont's favorite Shangrilas. If you side hike Black Mountain, exercise the utmost care ascending and descending this
precipitous slope. Three-fourths of all mountain climbing accidents occur on the way down.
7. The Skyline trail over Bonita Peak offers a multitude of
scenic vistas. The trail sometimes dissipates where it
crosses rock and gravel. Continue along the crest of
the ridge until you pick it up again. Piles of quartz rock
along this ridge are sometimes mistaken for patches of
snow at a distance.
8. Beaubien, a large mountain park ringed by aspen and
Douglas firs, typical of this Canadian life zone, is the
crossroads of the south. While you're here be sure to
see trappers lodge, the camp headquarters.
RED HILLS TO SHAEFER'S P A S S
1. Nestled in a tranquil valley at the head of Comanche
Creek lies Red Hills trail camp. Start out by ascending
Big Red - it makes little difference which trail you
take, although the one up the north side of the peak is
a bit easier.
2. This obscure trail is difficult to follow - just stay on the
crest of the ridge all the way to Comanche Pass and you
won't go awry. Notice the Foxtail pines with their bushy
tail like branches. They generally grow above 3000
me'ters (9843 feet) elevation.
3. You are faced with an important decision at Comanche
Pass. How does your crew feel? If everyone is in good
shape and good spirits, you may want to take on the
Bear/Biack Mountain trail, one of the most awe inspiring and most difficult anywhere. If you got a late start,
or if blisters are beginning to show, or if you're running
low on water, it will behoove you to choose the low
route along the North Fork Urraca Creek.
4. The climb up Black Mountain is tough and the trail only
sporadically marked. Keep clim'bing until you reach the
10,892 foot (3320 me'ters) high summit.
5. Although marked on your topographic map, the trail
from Black Mountain to Shaefer's Pass is virtually non-
*
existent. Stay on the ridge. From time to time you may
see very old blazes on some trees.
Attention to proper exposure, artful composition and
using a haze filter for color will enable even amateur
photographers to produce amazing results. Be sure to
close down your shutter opening at high elevation where
the sun's rays easily penetrate the thin atmosphere.
6. Shaefer's Pass is an expansive mountain meadow with
campsites to the north and west. The spring here is an
excellent indicator of current ground moisture conditions. In drought periods it dries up; in wet weather it
flows well.
7. In 1897 Samuel Matthews, a retired Army colonel, did
some hydraulic mining around Black Mountain Camp.
The six hundred feet (180 meters) of pipe and several
thousand board feet of lumber he and his ten employees
hauled in are still visible. Be sure to take a close look
at the artistic beauty of the hand hewn logs and joints
in the Black Mountain cabin (designed to shed water).
8. The North Fork Urraca trail is favored by many because
of its rugged beauty. Bears inhabit this area.
9. The Grizzly Tooth, as you can understand by looking at
it, is well named. A sharp outcrop of rock jutting skyward,
i t looks like the fang of a night-marishly large bear.
-
Ciarks' Fork to Shaefer's Pass
3.3 kilometers (2.1 miles)
Shaefsr's Pass to Miner's Park-3.8 kilometers (2.4 mrfes)
CLARK'S FORK TO MINER'S PARK
1. Clark's Fork still shows the scars of the flood that scoured trees and
brush from their moorings near the stream leaving a field of rock. If
you're schedu'led for a horse ride here, the corrals are just east of the
camp.
2. Named for its surrounding habitat, Ponderosa Camp offers some great
opportunities for seeing wildlife. A "trail" 'to Upper Clark's Fork has been
brushed out for your convenience.
3. Upper Clark's Fork is primitive, but gives you a head start on the long
hike into headquarters via the Tooth of Time.
4. The climb up Shaefer's Pass from Clark's Fork is one of the more difficult
on Philmont. If you plan to side hike the Tooth of Time, allow a full day.
Also be sure to Zake plenty of water - dehydration can be a problem on
this route.
The Shaefer's Pass trail was constructed by campers as part of the conserva,tion requirement for their 'arrowhead patch. Note the steady grade
that 'hugs1the slope -the mark of a well constructed trail.
5. Shaefer's Pass is an exquisite trail camp located near a fragile meadow.
Check about the availability of water here at Clark's Fork or Miner's Park.
6. You might want to try your hand at trout fishing in either direction from
this stream crossing. Cutthroats, rainbows and natives inhabit Philmont
streams.
7. Miners in these hills used Miner's Park for their annual galas. Waite Phillips allegedly planted grain here in the spring to attract wild turkeys in
the fall hun'ting season.
"Catface" blazes ,made by the Indians on large Ponderosa throughout
this area are thought to have been made to ge,t sap for medicinal purposes.
After climbing over Shaefer's Pass, the pine needle laden campsites surrounding this large park are a welcome sight.
MAP 29 Shaeler's Pass to Camping HeadquartersShaefer's Pass
to Tooth Ridge Camp-4.7
10.5 kilometer8 (6.5 miles)
kilometers (2.8 miles)
SHAEFER'S PASS TO CAMPING HEADQUARTERS
1. This is one of the most exhilarating hikes on Philmont
- a grand finale for your expedition. Unfortunately, in
their haste to get to headquarters, many crews overlook
the fascinating rock formations and points of interest.
Take time to enjoy this hike. An early start is imperative
to avoid afternoon thunderstorms.
Dynamite was used by Waite Phillips in constructing
this trail through the massive boulders. He "pavedJ' the
way for hundreds of thousands of Scouts and Explorers
to traverse this awe inspiring ridge.
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2. Although the Tooth is clearly visible from Shaefer's
Peak, it's farther than it looks. Don't be discouraged
when you don't find it right around the next bend in the
trail. Carry plenty of water with you because there is
none along the ridge and the blistering sun creates an
intolerable thirst.
3. A leader and a camper were struck and killed by lightning here in 1969. A plaque has been placed near the
trail in remembrance of them.
The Tooth Ridge is no place to be during a thunderstorm. Rocks along this sharp ridge show much evidence of strikes that touched down. If you see a storm
approaching, get off the ridge as best you can on the
leeward side. Then either continue down the ridge,
or wait until the storm passes before re-ascending to
the top.
4. No distinct path links the ridge trail with the Tooth.
The easiest and safest ascent is from the northeast side,
however. If you are burdened with packs, drop them
near the trail and pick your way through the boulders
'to the top of the Tooth - a sheer monolith of dacite
porphyry. At 9003 feet (2744 meters) atop the Tooth you
have an unimpeded view in all directions. Beneath you
to the south are the Stockade and Philmont Reservoir.
Camping Hedaquarters is at the end of the ridge and a
bit to the right.
About 100 meters off the trail on the ridge east of the
Tooth you can look through a natural "window" in a
massive rock wall that frames the Tooth.
5. Protected by high rocky ridges, the Tooth Ridge Camp
is nestled amongst a beautiful stand of Ponderosas.
These outstanding sites are marked by numbers routed
into wood blocks fastened to the trees.
A bit farther along the trail, you pass between two massive rock outcrops. Natural cliff dwellings in both of
these outcrops show fire scars indicative of the Indians
presence here. The cliff dwelling on the left is rather
high and not safe to attempt; the one on the right can
be reached with a boost from a friend.
6. The ridge trail is the recommended route, but if you're
in a hurry, you may want to descend here.
"
MAP 30 Abreu & Rimrock Park to Lower Bonita -f,g
kfiometers (4.5 milesl
Abreu & Rimrock Park to Lookout Meadow -7.8 kilometers (4.8 milesJ
RIMROCK PARK & ABREU TO LOWER BONITA & LOOKOUT MEADOW
1. Along with Rayado River and Old Abreu, Rimrock Park
is one of three starting camps near Abreu. Situated on
a bench just south of the Rayado River from Abreu,
Rimrock Park has a pleasing, but fragile, ground cover.
Crews are alternated amongst these camps from one
year to the next as current conditions deem appropria,te.
4. Steep and rugged is an apt way to describe this trail.
You pass through several tiers of rock as you ascend
400 meters (1300 feet) from the floor of Rayado Canyon
to the green meadows where the canyon suddenly
flattens out. A new world of spruce and fir unfolds
before you.
2. Abreu Camp suffered extensive flood damage in 1965.
Torrential waters gouged out huge boulders and deposited 'them along a wide swath as their power ebbed.
5. The trail to Lookout Meadow is difficult to spot. It's near
a clump of aspen on a hill south of Zhe stream. Since
the weter supply at Lookout Meadow is usually contaminated and always stagnant, you are advised to carry
water (be sure to purify it) from Bonita Creek.
From Abreu you have a choice of two routes. In wet
weather the Fowler Mesa trail may be best; but the
Bonita Canyon route is generally preferred. Both trails
commence near the Abreu cabin.
3. The trail up Bonita Canyon heads northwest out of flood
ravaged Rayado Canyon. Here you enter the Rayado
Natural Area, one of several areas where evidences of
man are prohibited to preserve the aesthetic beauty of
Philmont's wild wealth of flora, rock, and fauna in their
natural setting.
6. Lower Bonita has great campsites, ample firewood and
a clear spring.
7. A striking view of Philmont's central and southern
mountains welcomes you at Lookout Meadow. Good
campsi'tes with a plentiful supply of wood are located
along the north side of the meadow.
-4.1 kilometers (2.5 miles)
Aguiia to Crater Lake -4.1 kilomefers (2.5 miles)
MAP 31 Rayado River to Aguila
.-
RAYADO RIVER TO CRATER LAKE
1. You disembark from your bus here. A short preparatory
6. Aguila (meaning "eagle" in Spanish) is a small mountain
park with a limited water supply. You may need to dig
hike allows you to adjust your pack and brush up on
a shallow hole to collect water. Double purification is
your hiking and camping skills with the assistance of
necessary.
your ranger. Looking up canyon, Crater Peak appears
to be a colossal buffalo head.
7. Here the trail from Stone Wall Pass merges with the
2. Rayado Fliver Camp, situated in the bottom of Rayado
Crater Lake trail where it makes an end run around
Fowler Mesa. En route to Crater you catch spectacular
Canyon, is ideal for expeditions traveling through Philglimpses of the Tooth of Time Ridge.
mont's southern sector. The rushing Rayado waters
have always been a favorite haunt for trout fishermen.
Rayado means "striped" in Spanish, referring to the
8. Bear Caves is a small park perched on a bench of Fowler Mesa. Deer watering at the strong spring are often
tiers of rock forming the walls of this fathomless canyon.
as curious as those watching them. Be sure to hang
your food where it cannot be reached by Philmont's mid3. At this trail juncture, head northwest up the zigzagging
night marauders -the bears.
switchbacks on the side of Fowler Mesa. Behind you,
the view is worth pausing for an occasional breather.
9. Crater Lake offers great potential for photographers
with the Tooth of Time soaring in the background. The
4. The trail forks again. Continue north to Aguila, Bear
surrounding regions are ideal for orienteering practice
Caves and Crater Lake.
because of the multitude of prominent landmarks.
5. Shortly after leveling off in an aspen ringed shelf, the
trail passes between twin boulders. Indian inscriptions
can be seen on the rock northwest of the ,trail.
MAP 32
Abreu to Fish Camp-
11.2 kilometers 67.0 miles)
ABREU
TO FISH CAMP
1. Before 1965 the trail from New Abreu was a beautifully
wooded footpath that crossed and re-crossed Rayado
Creek en route to Fish Camp. Then the worst flood in
a thousand years or more changed the entire character
of this massive canyon. Swollen waters tumbled boulders weighing tons, exposed huge stretches of multicolored minerals and piled colossal log jams throughout
the canyon. Fields of rock were uncovered where thick
topsoil once lay.
The trek through this canyon is enchanting, but can be
hazardous and is nearly always exhausting. Crews hiking this stretch of the Rayado should exercise the utmost care and discipline. A new trail on the south slope
of Rayado Canyon provides a safer, quicker route.
Along the canyon floor, reminants of the old trail remain
offering easy going for short distances and then diffusing into fields of rock and narrow gaps between sheer
canyon walls, ~ ~ ways
t hare scenic, but watch your
footing.
2. The charred remains of the Old Abreu lodge serve as
a reminder to exercise the utmost care with your campfires. This lodge was entirely destroyed by fire in 1971
due to carelessness. Built by a pioneer family, its historic value is forever lost. Just beyond these remains a
newly constructed trail takes you up canyon through
one of Philmont's natural areas. In a 1968 article in
American Forester magazine, distinguished forester
Marion Clausen, impressed with the unspoiled, primi-
tive conditions of the ranch which accommodates
thousands of campers each summer, dubbed Philmont
an "intensively managed wilderness."
3. Dipper birds, or water ouzels, are frequently seen along
the stream. Water carnivals are the dipper's delight they feed on the bottom of pools, often nest behind
waterfalls and fly Zhrough the falling water! A peculiar
habit of bobbing sixty or more times per minute gives
the dipper its characteristic name.
4. A rugged outcrop of rock known as the Crags juts forth
from the side of Crater Peak. Pumice stone, hardened
lava that once spewed f o ~ t hfrom nelarby volcanic peaks
and that is sometimes light enough to float on water
can be found here.
5. Hiking between the Crags and Fish Camp is exciting.
The canyon narrows to a deep fissure, temporarily leaving the fields of rock and rubble, until just before reaching Fish Camp. Huge cliffs of pink grandiorite flecked
with sparkling mica tower above the canyon floor.
Here the very bones of Philmont have been exposed,
scrubbed and exhibited in glistening array.
6. Waite Phillip's exquisite fishing lodge, built with dark
polished logs and intricate iron work, was spared by
the 1965 flood, except for the kitchen which was demolished by the onrushing waters.
MAP 33
Lover's Leap to Urraoa - 5.7 kilometers (3 5 miles)
Abreu to Urraca - 6.6 kilpmeters (4 1 miles)
LOVER'S LEAP & ABREU TO URRACA
The pinon-juniper Transition zone prevalent near Abreu is an ideal
setting for an adobe casa (means "house" in Spanish).
If you're heading to Stone Wall Pass, continue north. Crews scheduled
for Toothache Springs and Urraca should bear right.
A jeep road joins the trail and winds to the top of Stone Wall Pass from
this point. Close contours on your Philmont mar, indicate a fairly steep
climb. If you missed the cutoff to Toothache Springs, hike southeast on
this road until you find the trail where i t crosses the road.
An increasingly difficult trail ascends the rocky slopes of Urraca Mesa.
Enjoy the magnificent view of Philmont's southeast corner when you
take a breather.
Toothache Springs is a pleasant surprise after this rugged uphill climb.
A level park bordered by Ponderosa pines and scrub oak conceals its
presence until you abruptly enter it. A reliable spring and excellent
campsites are located here. Be sure to treat all water before consuming it.
The final assault over the basalt cap of Urraca Mesa gives one the feeling of entering a lost world. Brushy side slopes of the mesa give no hint
of the stately Ponderosa forest on top. Relatively level, this mesa top is
excellent for sharpening your orienteering skills, picture taking and
nature study.
A pleasantly wooded trail spirals gently downward to Urraca Camp. A
beautiful park, this camp offers a striking view of the ragged face of
Urraca Mesa and the eastern plains.
For crews starting at Lover's Leap Camp, the bus will bring you here,
or you may elect to hike out from headquarters. Nearby Rocky Mountain
Scout Camp is for Scout-aged sons of families participating in conferences at the Philmont Training Center.
The spacious meadows of Lover's Leap Camp, surrounded by tall Ponderosa, give this starting camp a picture postcard appearance.
A short distance into the trees above Lover's Leap meadow two roads
diverge. Either will take you to Urraca. If your next camp after Urraca
is Crater Lake, take the left fork that wraps around the north side of
Urraca Mesa to avoid backtracking. If Abreu is your next camp, take
your pick of routes.
Several junctures make this route a bit difficult to follow at times.
Always take the right hand fork and you'll stay on course. The view of
the Tooth soaring above the valley is astonishing - it appears almost
insurmountable.
LOVER'S LEAP TO MINER'S PARK AND CRATER LAKE
poses. This remains one of many intriguing mysteries
of Philmont country.
1. Lover's Leap starting camp offers many opportunities
for taking photos. En route to the camp from the starting point, you pass the leap itself, an enormous rock
wall of dacite porphyry, rising 78 meters (256 feet)
above the valley floor. The Leap is for viewing, not
jumping! Opposite Lover's Leap you may be able to
distinguish Elephant Rock if you look closely. The far
west section of a large meadow, one kilometer past the
Leap, is used for camping.
2. This ,trail rises gradually en route to Miner's Park. It's
u1
ideal for preparing you for the more difficult hikes that
follow. Inspiring views of Lover's Leap, the Tooth of
Time and the Grizzly Tooth await you along the trail.
Be sure to glance behind occasionally, or you may
miss them.
3. Miner's Park is a heavenly mountain park surrounded
by one of the finest stands of Ponderosa Pines on Philmont. Catface blazes, allegedly made by Ute Indians
on Ponderosas, are frequently seen in this vicinity.
Authorities do not agree on why these blazes were
made, except that they did not mark trails. Some think
they may have been made to get sap for medicinal pur-
Waite Phillips is said to have planted grain in the
Miner's Park meadow in the spring and then hunt wild
turkeys in the fall. Gold miners used this artistic meadow for festive get togethers.
4. This trail is a bit more difficu'lt than the one to Miner's
Park, bu,t is somewhat more scenic too. As the trail
skirts the south facing slope of a low ridge, you overlook lush meadows below, great for summer pastures.
5. Crater Lake and vicinity is perfect for orienteering adventure because of the many prominent landmarks
visible here. A quaint mountain lodge overlooks a small
lake with the Tooth of Time as a backdrop, offering
tremendous potential for photography.
6. The trail linking Crater Lake with Miner's Park takes off
from a switchback in the abandoned road up Fowler
Pass. Nighthawks have been known to dive bomb hikers
along this trail, zooming upward just before making
contact. Grouse are frequently seen here too.
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293.7
h
w
MAP $5 Urraca fo Crefer Lake
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-.
7.5 kilometers (4.7 m , , ~ ~ ,
Ufraca fo Lower Bonita via Aguila
11.1 kilomefars IB.9 mIle8J
Crater Lake to Lower Bonrta
3.8 kilometers (2.4 mites)
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-
URRACA TO CRATER LAKE & LOWER BONITA
1. While at Urraca Camp, be sure to gaze a~tthe pockmarked face of Urraca Mesa from the south end of the
meadow. Just north of the campsites the remains of a
mountain man were found by two campers in 1970.
Anthropological studies of the bones have determined
that he died of an infection from a severely abcessed
too.th about 1840 at the age of 40.
2. The trail to Crater Lake crosses diagonally over
Urraca Mesa and down an old logging road on its
western slopes.
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-I
3. Stone Wall Pass is a scenic mountain park occasionally used as a dry camp. East and west up the sides of
the pass you can see vestiges of the old stone wall for
which the pass is named. Constructed about 1862,
it served as the boundary between the Rayado and
Urraca ranches, then owned by Jose Pley and Peter
Joseph respectively. The trail meanders beside it as
you ascend Fowler Mesa.
4. If Lower Bonita is your destination, you need to decide which route you prefer from this juncture. The
trail over Fowler Mesa is seldom used and quite primitive. If time permits, you may be able to participate in
program at Crater Lake, along the other choice of
routes.
5. Where the trail passes 'between two large boulders,
take time to look at the petroglyph carved by Indians
on the right hand boulder.
6. After this fork, a moderately steep trail crosses the
basalt cap of the mesa until it joins a fa'int jeep itrail
on top.
7. A series of small meadows dot' the trail on the mesa,
named after an early trapper and trader in these parts,
Jacob Fowler. In January 1822 Fowler and Hugh Glenn
obtained permission to trap and trade in then Mexican
land. They were amongst the first Americans to be
granted this privilege.
8. At Fowler Pass you reach an abandoned road. One
hundred meters further west begins the trail to Bonita
Valley.
9. When you enter Bonita (means "beautiful" in Spanish) Valley, hike south to Lower Bonita trail camp
tucked amongst Dougllas and white firs south of the
creek. Bonita Valley is one of the most lovely on Philmont. Waite Phillips' nephews who worked summers
at Bonita Cow Camp are said to frequently recall the
"beautiful Bonita."
10. Bear Caves features a strong spring wi'th campsites
bordering a small meadow.
11. Crater Lake Camp served as a sort of way station for
pack trips by horse, sponsored by Waite Phililips, between headquarters and Fis'h Camp.
MAP 36 Crater Lake to Beaubi
.6 kllomefers (5.3 mrlesl
CRATER LAKE TO BEAUBIEN
-one was an Eagle Scout. A gigantic yellow X has
been painted across the wreckage and surrounding
rocks at the reques,t of Federal Aviation Administration
officials so it can be readily distinguished during air
searches for currently missing planes.
1. Waite Phillips used Crater Lake as a pack station en
route from headquarters to Fish Camp. Crater Lake
lodge makes a great photograph with the Tooth of Time
in the background. Be sure to close down your shutter
opening and shoot at a slower speed to get sufficient
depth of field for sharp focus.
2. A new trail has been constructed up Fowler Pass. The
former road also offers an easy ascent and it's great for
photography.
(D
3. Jacob Fowler, a Santa Fe trapper and trader, passed
through here in the 1820s. Please leave all gates as you
find them - either open or closed. The trail into Bonita
Valley branches from the road about 500 meters beyond
the gate.
One of two routes to the top of Trail Peak begins in this
meadow. Allow yourselves several hours for this brisk
side hike.
4. In the spring of 1942 a B-24 bomber failed to clear Trail
Peak after its wings iced up in a storm, killing all eight
aboard. Please do not disturb or remove any portion
of the wreckage or the memorial to the dead aviators
5. The trail meets the valley floor one half kilometer above
Lower Bonita trail clamp. Across the creek bed the trail
ascends to Webster Pass. Going to Beaubien, head
upstream.
6. Bonita Cow Camp is the summer home for one of Philmont's cowboys who is responsible for the cattle in
these high summer pastures. A sawmill once stood here.
7. Another route up Trail Peak begins near the head of
this valley.
8. Beaubien doesn't seem to be 2850 meters (9350) feet in
elevation, but a few swings with an axe will soon convince you that it is. Excellent campsites abound here.
Beaubien is the heart of the south with arterial trails
flowing in all directions.
MAP W
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Fish Camp to Crooked creek& Bhrll~psJunction
7.4 kilometers (4 6 mrlegSI
Fish Camp to Crooked CreeRV'la'Buck Creek
8.9 kilometers (5.5 m ~ l e s )
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FISH CAMP TO CROOKED CREEK
1. A visit to Waite Phillips' fishing headquarters along the Rayado is fascinating, especially when you become aware that all the timbers for the
lodge were 'packed or dragged by mulle to this site. Construction of the
main lodge was initia,ted by George Webster and completed by Phillips
who then constructed additional guest lodges. One was completely destroyed by the same flood that altered the character of Rayado Canyon
overnight in June 1965. The rocky field below the confluence of Rayado
and Agua Fria creeks was once filled with grass, wildflowers and trees.
The most violent flood in a thousand years replaced this gentle beauty
with a rugged primitive grandeur. The power of nature is inescapable.
2. Fishing is usually superb just below the juncture of Buck Creek and the
Rayado.
3. Phillips Junction is crucial to many itineraries. You will be issued food
from the mountain commissary here, designed to hold several weeks
supply of trail food. The rubble strewn field behind this structure was
once a wildflower laden park. As you can see, new growth is beginning
to take ho'ld. Time heals all wounds.
4. Showers are available at Porcupine. After setting up camp at Crooked
Creek, a mile away, you may want to return for a hot shower and some
trout fishing. The best fishing is just above the camp.
5. Crooked Creek has some of the most exquisite cam~siteson Philmont.
The thick bed of pine needles may be more comfortable than your mattress at home. Please do not use the fireplace in the cabin here. Some of
the chinking has fallen out of the chimney making fires hazardous to the
structure.
If your itinerary includes a layover at Crooked Creek or Porcupine, you
may want to take a day long side hike up Mount Phillips and back, or
rest and relax, if that strikes your fancy.
MAP 38 Apache Springs to Fish Camp - 5 3 kilometers (3.3 miles)
Fish Camp to Lower Bonita - 4 2 kilometers (2 6 miles)
Fish Camp to Lookout Meadow -4.5 kriometers (2.8 miles)
APACHE SPRINGS TO LOWER BONITA
& LOOKOUT MEADOW
1. The route through Apache Springs and Lost Cabin
follows one of Waite Phillips' favorite horse trails.
Apache Springs was first established as a camp after
the 1965 flood, as an alternative (to Fish Camp. Inquire
of the staff about the numerous prospects for side
hikes in this area.
2. Here the trail to Lost Cabin passes the remains of two
cabins built by some of the first Scouts on Philmont.
Los,t Cabin Camp, .8 kilometers off the main trail, is
an enchanting place to repose for the night.
03
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3. As you drop into the Agua Fria (means "cold water"
'in Spanish) Canyon, be careful of loose boulders deposited by flood waters.
4. Agua Fria trail camp is revered by those seeking to
fly fish for trout. Trout are extremelly wary so don't
cast a shadow where you intend to drop your line.
5. Through this valley an obscure trail rises to La Grulla
Park. This is where Waite Phillips packed in materials
to construct the lodges at Fish Camp.
6. The main lodge at Fish Camp was begun by George
Webster (after whom Webster Pass is named) and
completed by Waite Phillips who also built the remainder of the complex. Note the lone chimney where
the servants lodge stood - it was completely demolished in the raging flood of 1965. As you can inter-
polate by looking at your topographic map, the Rayado
Canyon side of Webster Pass requires a strenuous
climb. A slow, steady pace is best.
Webster Pass once served as the main pack train
route )to Fish Camp where Waite Phillips entertained
many distinguished guests including humorist Will
Rogers, aviator Wiley Post, Chicago Tribune cartoonist
John T. McCutcheon and even Vice-President Charles
Dawes. Some trees still have diagonallly inclined
branches fastened at their base-these
were designed to prevent horses from shedding their packs
or riders by rubbing them off against the trees.
8. Lookout Peak is aptly named - the view is incredible.
You can see the red shingles of the Fish Camp lodges
over 300 meters (1000 feet) below! Notice the scoured
appearance of the Agua Fria valley where immense
trees were uprooted by the flood.
9. A primitive 'trail leads through a thickly timbered forest
be'tween Lookout Peak and Lookout Meadow Camp.
Since the water at Lookout Meadow is not the most
potable, you may need to hike to Bonita Creek for
more.
10. Lower Bonita is a splendid trail camp. You may wan't
to side hike to the plane wreck near the summit of
Trail Peak.
MAP 38
Apache Springs to Crooked Creek via fence line-tL2 kilometers
(3.9 miles)
6.6 krlometers
Apache Springs to Porcupine via Bear Canyon
(4.1 miles)
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Porcupine to Crooked Creek-
1 6 kilometers (1.0 miles)
APACHE SPRINGS TO CROOKED CREEK 81 PORCUPINE
Apache Springs lies in a spacious aspen-bordered park. South of the
camp winds the Agua Fria (means "cold water" in Spanish), a haven for
trout. Far 'back in Philmon4's high country, Apache makes an ideal layover camp.
There are several ways to travel from Apache to either Crooked Creek or
Porcupine: via the fence line, via the trail to Buck Creek or via the jeep
trail. The latter is generally uninspiring and is not recommended unless
some physical reason deems it best to use this gradually contoured route.
The fence line route is short, but also the most demanding. The foot trail
through Buck Creek is the option most often chosen.
If you drop your packs at the fence line and walk 10 meters into Garcia
Park, you can see this stupendous mountain park, including Garcia Cow
Camp and the old Cartwright Mill (lumber) Site. Since this is off Philmont
property, be sure to use your best Scout etiquette.
This mountain is yet unnamed, but it's been called steep, tough, gross
and worse.
Crooked Creek wanders through a sec'luded Shangrila-like park and feeds
into the Rayado. An excellen't water supply and plenty of top rated campsites make this a favori,te haunt.
The trail out of Bear Canyon begins several hundred meters above a reservoir and just below the springs and campsites. If you're scheduled to
camp here, please use only those campsites indicated by numbered wood
blocks. Your assistance in eliminating unnecessary fire lays will be appreciated. Fire lays leave a long lasting scar on the land, so Philmont
,tries to keep 'them to a minimum.
This ridge is laced with old jeep trails and logging roads. Follow the
emergency jeep road that bends around the top of the ridge for about
.5 kilometer. A new trail is under construction into Buck Creek and you
can follow it part way until it rejoins the old, badly eroded trail.
Buck Creek Camp consists of a picturesque park cut by a sparkling
stream. Be sure to purify your drinking and cooking water since upper
Buck Creek runs through summer cattle pastures. Always purify your
water in any case.
Just above Buck Creek are several active beaver colonies and a series
of dams. At sunrise or dusk you may hear the loud slap of a beaver tail
sounding the alert of impending danger. If you're heading for Crooked
Creek, the trail up Buck Creek and around this 9809 foot (2990 meters)
ridge is unsurpassed for its wild wealth.
You can pick up food and buy fishing licenses at Phillips Junction, less
than two kilometers down the valley from Porcupine, and try some trout
fishing on your way back.
PORCUPINE TO CLEAR CREEK
1. Porcupine Camp provides an interesting study of north
and south facing slopes. Note the towering aspen, fir
and spruce on the moisture laden north facing slope
and the contrastingly sparse Transition zone vegetation
on the opposite side.
2. The Crooked CreekIWild Horse trail is unsurpassed for
beauty. Upper Rayado Creek is also considered one of
the most picturesque areas on Philmont. If you'd like to
do some fishing, take the Rayado Creek trail, but if you
prefer a brisk climb and the grandeur of high mountain
parks, head for Crooked Creek.
3. From time to time you may see old beaver cuttings in
this area. Please do not camp at this junction with the
Red Hills trail - much better campsites are about one
kilometer upstream in the designaZed Comanche Camp
area.
4. Comanche Camp is perfect in nearly every respect.
Plenty of firewood, water at your beckoning, thick beds
of pine needles and good fishing make it difficult to
surpass. All sites are indicated with routed wood blocks
into which numbers have been routed. The best sites
are across the stream, away from the trail.
5. Clear Creek Camp sits near the headwaters of Rayado
Creek in a dense fir-spruce forest, typical of the Hudsonian life zone. The Grey Canadian-Rocky Mountain
Jay, a curious, friendly bird (they will almost eat out of
your hand), is commonly seen here. The hike to the
top of Mount Phillips is short, but rough - it's worth
every step though.
6. Crooked Creek is one of the most fresh appearing
camps on Philmont - it's great for rest and rellaxa,tion,
as well as bird watching.
7. Wild Horse Camp has been sparsely used since it was
first opened in 1965. This high, untouched mountain
meadow has a good spring where the water table surfaces near its head. Wild horses have been known to
roam this area in recent years.
PORCUPINE TO BEAUBIEN TO BLACK MOUNTAIN
Well spaced campsites along the rippling Rayado make
Porcupine a titillating layover camp. Showers are available here too. Remember, streams are Philmont's drinking water - please do your laundry, dishes and bathing
well away from any natural drainage or waterway.
4. Beau'bien is the hub of the southern sector with numerous trails radiating from it into some of the most remote areas of Philmont. You may want to pause here to
join the program for a while.
The Porcupine area is a haven for wildlife. A multitude
of golden-mantled ground squirrels, raccoons, bobcats
and badgers reside here. Rodents, especially skunks
and bats, are frequently infected with rabies and should
not be handled, even though they may be rather tame.
5. The trail to Black Mountain Camp commences from the
northernmost corner of the Beaubien meadow. Take a
compass reading of 360 degrees (347 degrees magnetic) from trappers lodge across this vast meadow to
reaclh the trail.
2. Phillips Junction is one of four strategically positioned
mountain commissaries. A pack train, originating out
of Beaubien, carries supplies to the staffed camps in
this primitive backcountry. Only dire emergency traffic
is permitted beyond this point.
6. Much relocating, reconstructing and reworking has
been accomplished to upgrade this trail. You will un.
doubtedly agree it is now one of the most pleasant
hiker trails on Philmont. Please respect all switchbacks
-cutting them creates serious erosion that scars the
land for years. Once started, erosion is almost always
irrevocable.
03
(D
3. Please use the Apache Creek trail en route to Beaubien.
Drivers of vehicles coming around blind corners on this
narrow mountain road may not see you soon enough
-the trail is quicker and more interesting anyway.
A vast array of flora and fauna may be observed in the
canyon. Campers are often bewildered in a'ttempting
to distinguish fir trees from spruce, especially white fir
and blue spruce. Just remember Fir needles are Flat,
Flabby and Flexible, while Spruce needles are Sharp,
Stiff and Spiral.
All food and supplies are packed into Black Mountain on
Rocky Mountain canaries, otherwise known as burros.
Likewise, you are asked to carry out any litter or garbage you generate and deposit it in the receptacles
provided at other staff camps.
MAP 42 Miner's Park io
Tooth 8idgs viq North Fork
Wrra~a- 8.6 kllorrr~tars(5.6 mites)
MINER'S PARK TO TOOTH RIDGE
VIA NORTH FORK URRACA
1. Miner's Park is a delightful mountain park surrounded
by a healthy stand of Ponderosa pines that were thinned
some years ago to stimulate the growth of those remaining. Increment bores confirm the success of this
project. Growth rings in recent years are much wider
than those preceding the timber stand improvement
project.
2
This camp offers an ideal, natural setting for studying
wildlife, as well as forestry. Native inhabitants include
wild turkey, mule deer and tassel-eared (Aberts) squirrels. The latter grow long blackish tufts on their ears
each year that fall off in late summer. You may also
have the dubious pleasure of being rousted out of bed
to see a black bear devour your food, if i t is not suspended well above the ground and away from large
branches.
2. The North Fork Urraca "trail" is really more of a "way."
Just pick your way downstream as best you can. Some
remnants of a trail remain, but much of the tread was
devastated by floods in 1965 and 1969.
3. The North Fork Urraca is the home of Philmont's famed
"dipper birds," also known as the water ouzel. Dippers
are characterized by their bobbing motion when standing. They frequently nest behind waterfalls through
which they fly. You may even see a dipper walking on
the bottom of the stream in search of insects!
4. Notice how water acts as nature's artisan. Although
floods have scooped much topsoil out of this canyon,
they uncovered many fascinating rocks. You cross the
Urraca many 'times and in several places must sloush
through it, but it's worth all your effort and more. Watch
your step on slippery rock, though. At places sheer rock
walls narrow to tunnel-like passages.
5. This reservoir supplies Philmont Headquarters with
water. Swimming is prohibited to avoid contaminating
the water, but you may certainly fish. Some big ones
have been snagged here.
6. Philmon,t's gigantic molar, the Tooth of Time, soars
above the Stockade. After being completely demolished
by a tornado in 1960, the Stockade was rebuilt near its
original site.
7. From the top of the ridge, pick your way through the
boulders on the east side of the Tooth to reach the
summit.
8. The Tooth Ridge Camp is excellent and considered as
a dry camp even though pockets in nearby rock formations nearly always retain water. The camp is shielded
from lightning by several high ridges which are occasionally struck.
MAP 48
Urraca fo Lamping Headquarters via T m t h of Time - 73.8 kilometers (8.6 miles)
URRACA TO HEADQUARTERS VIA TOOTH
1. Partially enveloped in the protective extremities of Urraca Mesa, Urraca
Camp experiences eat'ly sunrises and abrupt sunsets.
2. The trail branlches off a jeep road and dissipates in this meadow. Head
for the large rock on the opposite side of the meadow and you will pick
up anorher jeep trail near it.
3. After scrambling down a steep, rocky trail, swing southwest to a flood
control dam and along its banks to the road. When you reach the road,
turn right toward the Stockade en route to the Tooth. Watch for vehicular
traffic.
4. The Stockade, fashioned afiter old frontier posts, and an awe inspiring
view of the Tooth of Time make this spot ideal for photographers.
A myriad of fooltpaths diverge from the Stockade to the trail up the Tooth.
It really matters not which you take. Just keep proceeding generally
toward the deep wash immediately east of the Tooth monolith. Follow
the trail up this steep wash until you reach the main ridge trail - you'll
know it for sure when you get there.
5. The Tooth is best climbed by picking your way through the boulders on
the east side. Leave your packs near the ridge trail, but take your canteens and camera. A breath-taking view makes your efforts worthwhile.
The Tooth was a landmark on the Santa Fe Trail that ran along Philmont's
eastern border, south from Cimarron. Portions of the trail are still visible
where wagon wheels churned through mud.
6. As you gaze at the phantasmagoric plains below, you may see antelope
whizzing along. The pronghorn antelope may be the fastest land runner
on earth- it has been clocked at speeds of 60 miles (97 kilometers)
an hour! Although the cheetah can outrun the antelope for short spurts,
the antelope is clearly the better distance runner.
7. Take time to wander about some of the wierdly shaped rock outcrops
along the Tooth Ridge. Notice the effects of wind and water on those
rock faces. Struggling pines, growing minutely from one year to the next,
have managed to eke out an existence for hundreds of years in narrow
cracks in rock slabs.
8. The trail descending the crest of Che Tooth Ridge is by far the most
scenic into headquarters. Rebuilt in 1973, it is gently outsloped to allow
water to cross it, rather than running down its length eroding a gulley.