The Good Life - Région Poitou

Côte Atlantique
La Rochelle - Ile de Ré
DESTINATIONS
POITOU-CHARENTES
Marais poitevin
Cognac
Poitiers - Futuroscope
The Good Life
in Poitou-Charentes
Atlantic Coast & Cognac Country
Magical Marais Poitevin
Moving images of Futuroscope
Enchanting Port of La Rochelle
www.visit-poitou-charentes.com
www.visit-poitou-charentes.com
La Rochelle
Île de Ré
Cognac
Country
The Atlantic
Coast
The Marais
Poitevin
Futuroscope
Poitiers
Anchors Aweigh!
The Hermione, a reconstruction of
Lafayette's famous 18th-century frigate,
set sail for the New World
Poitou-Charentes
I first heard the siren song of Poitou-Charentes when I was a teenager. It was
love at first sight when I saw La Rochelle’s towers standing sentry between the
land and the sea. Caught up in a happy wave of Rochelais locals strolling the
Old Port, I was quickly smitten with the easygoing lifestyle. In fact, the region’s
trifecta of history, landscapes, and art de vivre had me at bonjour.
Years later I married a Poitevin and the region continues to hold fast my heart, even from my home
base in Paris. With two young children in tow, Poitou-Charentes is where we return year after year
for beach vacations, history lessons, good food and drink, and constant communion with nature.
My writing partner, Marguerite Richards, has lived in France for a total of four years, and even
though she resides in California now, she can’t seem to stay away. Her lifelong romance with the
country began with her very first experience in Poitou-Charentes—in her family’s Vienne countryside
home in a tiny hamlet called Laudonnière. Since, she’s managed a duo of France-focused travel
magazines, and hasn’t stopped writing about the Hexagon.
As travel journalists, we are lucky to explore all corners of the globe. But it’s here where we feel at home.
How do we love Poitou-Charentes? Let us count the ways. The full-spectrum sunsets over wide
sandy beaches. The sprinkling of heavenly islands offshore. The white-washed villages with pastelhued shutters. The cathedral of verdure in the Marais Poitevin. But the region’s draw is more than
aesthetic. This is a place where layers of history can be peeled back, and where traditional culture
runs deep. You find the full expression of the region’s personality in its terroir-redolent food during
lingering lunches shared with generous and hospitable locals.
Mary Winston Nicklin
Marguerite Richards
Poitou-Charentes
Editors' Note
The Good Life in
LONDON
PARIS
NANTES
Loire Chateaux
PoitouCharentes
LIMOGES
BORDEAUX
The Good Life in
Poitou-Charentes
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the destinations
La Rochelle - Île de Ré
4 to 7
Cognac Country
8 to 11
Atlantic Coast
12 to 15
The Marais Poitevin
16 to 19
Poitiers - Futuroscope
20 to 23
the good life
24
page
UNESCO, Small towns big character
24 to 27
Gastronomy 28 to 29
Made in Poitou-Charentes 30 to 31
Terroir on Two Wheels
32 to 33
Family Frolics
34 to 35
Arrive & Revive
36 to 37
Festival Folie
38 to 39
behind the scenes
map
40
page
42
page
For more information, please visit our web site:
www.visit-poitou-charentes.com
Poitou-Charentes
4
Destination La Rochelle - Ile de Ré
Warm Welcome in La Rochelle
History, culture and a generous side of art de vivre
Topping many a traveler’s bucket list, the port of La Rochelle is a European
destination par excellence, with enough history and culture to spend a lifetime
exploring. The Old Port is an awe-inspiring sight: an iconic duo of 14th-century
stone towers marks the entrance to the boat-filled harbor. Facing this
picturesque panorama, cafés lure passers-by for oysters paired with a glass
of local wine. From yachties and history buffs to couples with toddlers in tow,
La Rochelle attracts a diverse, lively bunch with year-round sunshine and a
friendly vibe.
O
n a clear July night, a spirited crowd
of visitors throngs La Rochelle’s
cobblestone streets. Just a stone’s
throw from the harbor, a giant stage
showcases the talents of the world’s finest
francophone musicians. What a backdrop! The
concert kicks off under a star-filled sky, the
staccato beats bouncing off the city’s ancient
walls. Welcome to Francofolies, the summer
music festival that’s become so popular, it’s
been exported worldwide. But Francofolies
is just one example of how this city has
embraced its past while paving the way as an
avant-garde trendsetter.
Poitou-Charentes
Take La Rochelle’s environmental initiatives.
The port pioneered an eco-friendly bicyclelending program, called Yélo, decades before
it became popular in capitals all over the
globe. This fleet of signature yellow bikes is
available at stations throughout the city. The
bikes are free for the first two hours, and the
price is one euro an hour after that. Starting
in the 1970s, La Rochelle demonstrated
its leadership with green urban solutions.
It was the first city in France to create
large pedestrianized zones, followed by a
car-sharing program in the 1980s. In 1997,
the “journée sans voiture” closed the city
center to car traffic, and commuters merrily
sought alternative transportation to work.
Founded in the 10th century, La Rochelle
became an important commercial center in
the Middle Ages, growing prosperous on the
wine and salt trade. Eleanor of Aquitaine
granted La Rochelle the privileges of an
autonomous region, lending to its success as
the greatest merchant port on the Atlantic
coast until the 18th century. You see evidence
of this wealth in stunning merchants’ houses,
festooned with ornamental sculptures and
gargoyles.
5
Take in spectacular views of this immaculately
preserved city with a climb to the top of the
three landmark towers. Tour de la Chaîne and
Tour St-Nicolas flank the entrance to the
harbor, while Tour de la Lanterne is connected
to the Chain Tower by the port’s medieval
ramparts. The Lantern Tower once served as a
prison, and you can spy graffiti etched on the
walls and imagine the inmates (like English
privateers) that once occupied the edifice.
From this vantage point, you’ll discover a
postcard-perfect panorama over the sailboats
moored in the port.
For captivating insight into the city’s multilayered—even turbulent—history, book a guide
at the tourist office, who will reveal secret
courtyards, cobblestone streets paved with
ballast stones imported from Canada’s St.
Lawrence River, and the ancient headquarters
for the Knights Templar, called Cour de la
Commanderie. A large shield, marked with
a cross and embedded as a mosaic in the
courtyard, literally marks the spot. You’ll
gape at the beautiful Hotel de Ville, the
Renaissance-style town hall, and sigh over
Maison Henri II, also known as Diane de
Poitiers’ house. Even today, the city’s shopping
arcades, which protect citizens from the sun
and rain, are a popular place to stroll. You’ll
also learn about the city’s intriguing role as
a Protestant stronghold during the religious
wars.
Culture buffs will find a slew of fascinating
museums to satisfy every taste, including the
Musée des Beaux-Arts, the Muséum d’Histoire
Naturelle, and the Musée du Nouveau
Monde, which explores La Rochelle’s historic
connection with the Americas. This last
example boasts an exceptional setting inside
an 18th-century mansion with a staircase
that’s classified a historic monument. In big
news for 2015, the city’s Maritime Museum
unveiled a new gallery with a permanent
exhibition dedicated to La Rochelle’s history.
Families flock to La Rochelle for the famous
aquarium. Voted the top Aquarium in
France by TripAdvisor in 2015, l’Aquarium is
home to 12,000 marine animals from every
continent, including sharks. In 2015, the
lobby was dramatically transformed into
a rainforest canopy in an exhibition titled
“Tropical rainforest, future of the planet.”
After checking out the lush underwater world,
stop for lunch in the restaurant, whose fullwindowed walls look out to the marina.
A mild winter means the La Rochelle events
calendar is studded with year-round musts:
the International Film Festival in June,
Francofolies in July, two jazz festivals, and
the Grand Pavois, Europe’s largest floating
boat show, in September. A major event on
the international nautical scene, the Grand
Pavois showcases the latest and greatest in
boats and equipment.
It’s held in the Port
des Minimes, which
comprises one of
the country’s largest
sailboat marinas. Les
Minimes is connected
to the Vieux Port
and the Aquarium by
an eco-friendly (of
course!) electric boat
service.
Finally, one of the greatest pleasures of a
sojourn in La Rochelle is adapting to the
lifestyle that has perfected that oh-soFrench art de vivre. In the morning, head to
the marché central, housed in the covered
marketplace from the 19th century, to taste
some of the region’s best seasonal products.
This bounty is proudly displayed in waterfront
restaurants where you can order up platters
of seafood and line-caught fish straight from
the Atlantic. Don’t miss the soupe de poissons
Rochelaise, topped with toasted croutons, a
dollop of rouille, and grated cheese, which
should be sprinkled generously over your
bowl. To cap the perfect day, head to one of
the port’s excellent glaciers for a scoop of
ice cream. Then stroll the lively waterfront
promenade, to watch the ebb and flow of the
tides, as the seagulls cry overhead and a salttinged breeze blows off the sea.
Poitou-Charentes
6
Destination La Rochelle - Île de Ré
Island Time on Île de Ré
Sunning, shopping, and artisanal art
There’s a dreamy island off the Atlantic coast of France that’s bathed in
sunshine 300 days of the year. Easily accessible via a three-km toll bridge from
La Rochelle, Île de Ré casts a spell over its visitors. Is it the luminosity? The
perfect crescent beaches and whitewashed villages? The poisson paired with
the Pineau? The endless cycling paths and historic lighthouses? Visitors speak
in rapturous superlatives about the island and we can’t really blame them. It’s
a magical place, and a favorite destination for in-the-know vacationers who
return year after year for some fun in the sun.
F
or its small size, Île de Ré packs a
powerful punch. Only 30 kilometers
long and five kilometers wide, the
finger-shaped island surprises with a
diversity of landscapes: vineyards, fields,
mud flats, forests, not to mention wide
sandy beaches. The climate is pleasantly
mild (note those ubiquitous palm trees),
and the salty sea air is fragrant with
lavender. From water sports to heritage
sites, you’ll surely find your fancy on the
“white island.”
Poitou-Charentes
St. Martin, the de facto capital, emits a
sort of understated elegance. Surrounded
by wall fortifications created by Vauban,
Louis XIV’s talented military engineer, the
village is a tangle of cobbled alleyways
planted with hollyhocks. Topped with
terracotta tile roofs, the traditional
white houses are adorned with sea green
shutters. It’s a village that’s almost
impossibly photogenic; you’ll find yourself
reaching for your smartphone to snap
photos of the boat-filled harbor, the wicker
bicycle baskets, and the flowers, sprouting
in every cracked wall and terracotta pot.
Climb to the top of the bell tower and
you’ll marvel at St. Martin’s star shape,
Vauban’s signature style.
You could easily wile away a day boutiquehopping—here, it’s shopping galore. (Big
perk: the stores are even open on Sunday.)
You’ll find designer clothing, bags made
from recycled sails, locally crafted soaps
made from donkey milk, and gourmet gifts
like sachets of sea salt. Don’t miss the
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In total, there are ten communities on Île
de Ré, two of which have been awarded
the “Plus Beaux Villages de France”
label. Historically an important salt port,
Ars-en-Ré is famous for its church spire.
This black-and-white beacon, measuring
40 meters in height, was so distinctive
it became a navigational landmark for
passing ships. On the north side of the
island near the bridge to the mainland,
the beautiful village La Flotte en-Ré is
known for its medieval marketplace and
eye-catching harbor.
Despite its popularity, Île de Ré has
retained a tranquil spirit. This is island
living at its finest, where life moves at
a you’ll even catch yourself stopping to
smell the flowers. A testament to the cool
cadence here, the islanders’ preferred
means of transportation is the bicycle,
which is built into the fabric of the Rétais,
or Ré locals, way of life. A network of
paved paths cuts in every direction, making
it incredibly easy to navigate the island
by bike. There are over 100 kilometers
of cycling paths, and because of the flat
topography, it’s not a strenuous ride. As
you pedal, you’ll find fellow cyclists can be
anyone from elderly couples on shopping
trips or kids barely old enough to walk. The
bicycle is also the perfect means to soak
up the scenery. You move fast enough to
appreciate the changing landscapes—sea
on one side, vineyards on the other—but
slow enough so that you can linger over
the details. Like the fabulous local donkeys
hanging out in the fields wearing trousers!
Historically, “Les Anes en Culottes” wore
the traditional protective coverings to
ward off mosquitoes, and so today, they
remain symbolic of Rétais culture.
© M. Dreyfus
covered marketplace where the succulent
seafood displays showcase the pride of
local fishermen: their Atlantic bounty.
Food-obsessed travelers will find their bliss
in the village’s excellent bistros, cafés, and
glaciers, where you can even find oysterflavored ice cream—a decidedly acquired
taste!
Near Ars, you’ll spy the flat salt marshes
where sauniers (salt farmers) have
harvested coarse sea salt since the 12th
century. Using traditional methods, the 60
sauniers who comprise the Cooperative des
Sauniers de l’Île de Ré keep the artisanal
savoir faire alive, passing the trade on
through the generations. Gourmands can
pick up gifts like bags of coarse grey salt,
caramels made from salted butter, and
boxes of fleur de sel, the precious salt
crystals that are prized by the world’s top
chefs. In fact, you can follow a route to
visit traditional artisans still at work in
various ateliers about the island. Look for
Route des métiers d’art.
Continue your biking itinerary past myriad
oyster farms to the western tip of the
island, where the Phare des Baleines rises
57 meters above the ocean. Built in the
19th century to replace Vauban’s ancient
lighthouse, the Phare des Baleines is
open to visitors. Climb the 257 steps of
the spiral staircase to the top (beware of
vertigo!) and swoon at the sweeping vistas
over the island and ocean. The museum is
a window into the past, showcasing the
island’s maritime history and the lives of
the brave lighthouse keepers who lived
lonely, yet extraordinary, lives between the
land and the sea.
After circling the island by bike, you
deserve a little R&R. And there’s no better
place for repos than the beaches on the
south side of the island, where young and
old alike frolic in the sand and sea.
Poitou-Charentes
8
Drink responsibly
Destination
Cognac Country
The Spirit of Cognac
A boozy town glowing with royalty and ruins
Cognac is recognized the world over, but not everybody knows the birthplace
of this fine brandy, a city with just as much character and charm as the drink
itself. Strategically situated on the banks of the Charente River, Cognac is
surrounded by an astonishing 80,000 hectares of grape vines—second only to
Bordeaux in vineyard surface area. This was also the birthplace of François I,
the illustrious Renaissance monarch. When you stroll around the city, its white
stone gleaming in the sunshine, you’ll discern such regal countenance only fit
for a king.
W
arm the brandy glass in your hand—it
is shaped like a tulip to allow for just
the right amount of oxygen to touch
the liquor, thus bringing it to blossom. Tilt a
small mouthful to the lips, let it roll slowly on
the tongue, then to the back of the throat, and
finally down to warm the belly. A cognac tasting
is best appreciated with the friendly blenders
who make it, eager to share their passion for
the craft. While touring Cognac country, there
are many distinctive ways to enjoy the spirit as
well as types to try. But first, let’s imbibe a bit
of history to better digest the town.
Poitou-Charentes
A fun way to wander is by self-guided walking
tour with a detailed map provided by the local
tourist office. The king’s journey (ask for le
parcours du roy) will take you through the
alleyways of the old town that were built when
salt was the most important traded commodity,
before the birth of the famous spirit. Or,
you may prefer the Belle Époque journey (le
parcours Belle Époque), which follows the
urban developments of the 19th century. You’ll
stumble upon Place Francois I, le Couvent des
Récollets, the gardens of the Hôtel de Ville, and
the sprawling green splendor of Parc Francois I.
Legend has it that he was actually born in this
park under an elm tree. The Château de Cognac,
home to the Otard Maison since 1795, also has
a claim to fame as the king’s first royal digs.
Leave ample time to peruse the produce at the
covered market, open from Tuesday to Sunday
from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. on Boulevard Denfert
Rochereau.
If historic ruins in a pristine country setting
make your heart beat faster, think to travel
a bit beyond the town center to visit one of
the many vineyards rich in cognac heritage
like Chateau de Bouteville and its nearby
chapel.
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»
TIP
If following a self-guided walking tour is
not your cup of tea—ahem, cognac!—get
your feel for the city at Espace Découverte,
a free multimedia visitor center situated
by the ancient ramparts near the river.
And just next door, the Musée des Arts
du Cognac is dedicated to the history of
the industrial achievements of this eaude-vie, celebrating the human ingenuity
involved in its global success. Both
museums provide displays in English, and
make a good starting point for visitors
wishing to tour cognac houses.
Liquid Gold
T
he double-distilled spirit put the town of
Cognac on the map, but the secret to its
splendid native beverage was discovered
quite by accident. Simply put, cognac is eau-devie that’s aged for a minimum of two years in
oak barrels. Today, the grape-based brandy
can only be called “cognac” if it’s produced in
the small region designated, by French law, as
Cognac country. Its fascinating origins start
with a poorer product: To avoid export taxes,
wine was heated to become “burnt wine,”
nothing like the appealing digestif it became
in the 17th century when they began to distill
it. Serendipitously, a few happy wine-makers
discovered that the spirit improved with age in
oak barrels, and its production soared into the
19th century. According to the region’s official
data, four bottles are consumed every second
somewhere in the world!
Cognac abides by strict quality regulations
defined by the appellation of origin, or
AOC. Today the AOC includes over 5,600
vineyards, with six specific names:
Grande-Champagne, Petite Champagne,
Borderies, Fins Bois, Bons Bois, and
Bois Ordinaires. The difference in
flavor, mouth feel, and amber color
comes from the specific AOC, but
also from the age in the barrel. Look
for VS for a minimum of two years,
VSOP for at least four, and XO
for at least six.
Many of the distilleries
offer tours of their chais
(cellars), followed by
tastings.
Depending
on your travel time
constraints, a well-rounded visit to Cognac
should include a stop at least one big house
(like Courvoisier, Martell, Hennessy, Camus,
Remy Martin, Otard, or Meukow). Even though
these maisons have been around for hundreds
of years, they constantly reinvent their tours
and tastings to celebrate their longevity. For
example, Hennessy will have a brand new tour
in September 2015. Be sure to ask for the latest
and greatest at the tourist office.
You can also try your hand at blending your
very own cognac at Camus, the independentlyowned maison dating to 1863, which offers
special workshops. Rémy Martin, which sells
divine cognac-infused chocolate truffles, offers
chocolate-making ateliers. Don’t forget the
small local producers, which will graciously
open their doors to share their passion for
crafting Cognac, and also for making Pineau
des Charentes. The region’s heralded aperitif is
a sweet blend of cognac and grape juice.
Last, but certainly not least, time your visit to
coincide with one of the annual festivals and
you’ll be transported straight to the spirit of
Cognac. Celebrate with the locals at Fête du
Cognac at the end of July for three days of
Cognac cocktails, local cuisine, concerts, and a
whole lot of friendly fun. At the tail end of June
and first days of July, there’s a fabulous 5-day
African-American Blues festival called “Blues
Passions.” Not only does it showcase headliners
of international acclaim like Lenny Kravitz, but
it also features emerging musicians of lesser
renown, but of great talent.
Poitou-Charentes
10
Destination
Cognac Country
Artful Angoulême
A cleverly laid-out town that’s anything but comical
Perched on a rocky plateau, this French commune moved an Italian explorer to
dub would-be New York City with its very first name: New Angoulême. From
Cognac, take a leisurely hour-long drive along the Charente River eastbound
to find the “Capital of Paper,” where walls of creative illustrations inspire your
imagination beyond measure. What’s best, an ode to art is celebrated here all
year long, both indoors and out.
C
omic strips aren’t just good for laughs.
The bande dessinée, or BD for short,
is how many French children learn to
read. Angoulême is the pilgrimage point for
authors, artists, and fanatics of BD, an art
form deeply rooted in French culture.
Angoulême is home to the Cité Internationale
de la Bande Dessinée et de l’Image, of which
the newest fixture is the Musée de la Bande
Dessinée, housing a collection of over 8,000
original drawings. Every year in January,
Angoulême celebrates the annual Festival
International de la bande dessinée, the third
largest comic event in the world.
But Angoulême doesn’t just keep its art
behind doors. The town cleverly displays it
with 23 painted murals showcasing some of
France’s most notable comic artists. Even the
street names are depicted in speech bubbles
straight out of a comic strip. These fanciful
bursts of color and comment are peppered
across medieval buildings and mansions built
by affluent paper mill owners in the 18th and
19th centuries.
Poitou-Charentes
There’s an actual cartoon trail you can follow
through town. As you begin your walking tour,
stop at the tourist office for a map detailing
the key sites, or meander sans carte for both
pictorial and architectural surprises through
cobblestone streets. Be sure to include these
three stops: on the Place Saint-André, you’ll
find the haunting masterpiece “Memoires du
XXe Ciel.” Outside les Halles, or the covered
market, you’ll admire “La fille des remparts,”
a glorious trompe l’oeil fresco that seemingly
extends the city ramparts to a distant horizon.
Dating from the late 19th century, the Théatre
d’Angoulême is the first notable construction
by architect Antoine Soudée. Here, look for a
mural that’s a masterful representation of the
actors’ perspective of the audience from the
stage.
Historically, Angoulême was a medieval
papermaking machine with dozens of mills
set up on the river. For those that still have
a place in their hearts for print, visit the
last functioning paper mill in Angoulême.
The Moulin du Verger maintains traditional
methods in its luxury paper production.
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A River Runs Through It
Slow down in Saintes on a Charente River cruise
From Angoulême in the east to its outlet in the Atlantic near Rochefort,
the Charente River comprises some 170 kilometers of effortlessly navigable
waterways. Smack dab in the middle of those two tempting city stops, the GalloRoman capital of Saintes serves as an ideal starting point for river cruises. Hop
aboard a traditional flat-bottomed gabarre to sail past sublime scenery and Old
World villages, appreciating the sights from an entirely different perspective.
I
Ri
v
magine floating downstream all the way
you’ll also want to fish for your dinner directly
in 40 AD, originally designed to host bloody
from the boat.
to the Atlantic, drifting through storybook
gladiator games in front of an audience of
hamlets, past ancient water mills,
Start your adventure in Saintes, a lovingly
15,000 spectators. In mid-July, a symphony
Romanesque churches, vineyards, chateaus,
preserved town dating from the 1st century
of violins plays in the center of one of the
and lush vegetation that spills over the
AD. With exquisite Roman ruins, the medieval
vaulted chambers of the Abbaye aux Dames,
riverbanks. From this privileged perch, you have
Saint-Eutrope church, and Renaissance
the landmark Benedictine abbey whose proud
a unique window on the land and its people.
townhouses sculpted from limestone, Saintes
scars recall historic events like the Hundred
Watch families and lone salty gents fishing at
is packed with architectural treasures. Most
Years’ War and its post-revolution role as a
the water’s edge; swans and turtles sunning
impressive, the town celebrates its heritage
prison. Today the Abbaye lives on as a music
themselves on woody debris. On the river, you’ll
with modern-day events hosted in centuriesconservatory, and the eight-day classical
embrace a slower pace of life.
old settings. Today concerts are still held in
musical festival is a highlight of the French
Opt for one of the myriad cruise boat excursions
the Roman amphitheater that was completed
musical calendar.
arente
from Jarnac, Cognac, or Saintes. Or if you
Ch
er
fancy yourself skipper, rent your own
Rochefort
boat with your lover, your family, or your Atlantic
favorite group of amis for a like-the- Ocean
locals journey. No prior experience or
Saint-Savinien
license is required to operate boats here,
and full training can be provided upon
Port d’Envaux
rental. Here you’ll interact with friendly
Saintes
lock operators, or éclusiers, each with a
different story to tell. The éclusier’s métier
Jarnac
has been passed from one generation
to the next; ask him about how his
Angoulême
Chaniers
Cognac
forefathers met tradesmen who carried
salt and brandy to the sea. Bring your bike
Bassac
onboard to hop off and cycle the towpath;
Poitou-Charentes
12
Destination Atlantic Coast
Rochefort Awakes
The Sleeping Beauty of the Atlantic coast
In Rochefort, come face to face with ghosts of the great ships of the past. In
1666, Louis XIV strategically chose the site to establish his royal dockyards. The
snake-like loops of the Charente River protected Rochefort from the marauders
trying to attack the Atlantic coast. Nicknamed “Versailles of the sea” for its
palatial size, the dockyards constructed hundreds of ships at the height of
technological prowess. As the French kingdom ruled the high seas, Rochefort
was the privileged departure port for the country’s most important military and
scientific expeditions. Today the spirit of maritime adventure lives on.
I
n the 1966 hit film “Les Demoiselles de
Rochefort,” legendary film director Jacques
Demy cast a young starlet named Catherine
Deneuve to sing and dance alongside her sister
in the Technicolor montage. The pretty port town
of Rochefort plays the photogenic backdrop for
the jolly musical cast. Come to Rochefort in real
life to see that same picturesque Place Colbert,
which plays the stage, as well as those perfect
streets and limestone buildings, sparkling in the
sunshine.
Today, following a glorious renaissance, the
town has emerged as a destination in its own
right. When the naval dockyards closed in
1926, an ambitious restoration program saved
at-risk heritage sites by transforming them into
museums. The Corderie Royale, the royal rope
factory, is an architectural landmark measuring
more than seven Olympic pools in length. When
it was opened in 1669, it was the longest
factory in Europe, producing the hemp ropes
and rigging for the royal navy for over 200
years. Since it was converted into a museum
Poitou-Charentes
in 1985, live demonstrations and hands-on
ateliers show off this savoir faire. The past
also comes to life at the Musée de la Marine,
where you can marvel at the ancient medical
instruments used by students at the École de
Médecine Navale, founded in 1722 to train
naval surgeons.
Rochefort is the launch pad for cruising out
to
Napoleon’s
Ile d'Aix
fortified islands
in the Atlantic.
Spend the day
navigating around
Fort Boyard, the
iconic setting for
the popular TV
game show. The
croissant-shaped
island Île d’Aix
is closed to car
traffic,
making
for a paradise
getaway
just
20 minutes from the mainland. Aix is where
Napoleon stayed before departing for exile
on Saint-Helena, and the house now contains
a fascinating museum. Bike around the tiny
isle to discover secret coves, flower-studded
meadows, and military forts built to keep watch
over the sea.
13
The Hermione Sets Sail
A transatlantic voyage for liberty and friendship
An ambitious dream over 17 years in the making, the Hermione is a reconstruction of the
famous frigate sailed by the Marquis de Lafayette in the 18th century to aid the American
revolutionaries in their fight for independence. Built with the same materials and technologies
available in Lafayette’s day, the wooden tall ship is a stunning showcase of artisanal craftsmanship
and maritime savoir faire. The Hermione lifted her anchors to retrace Lafayette’s voyage in
summer 2015, a transatlantic journey symbolizing liberty, friendship, and the spirit of infinite
possibilities.
G
orgeous sunsets are not unusual on
the Atlantic coast of Poitou-Charentes.
But on one fine September day in 2014
on Île d’Aix, the weather gods seemingly
conspired for perfect conditions.
The Hermione frigate
The Hermione had set sail for the very first
time. Accompanied by a flotilla of boats,
the tall ship plowed through the Atlantic’s
breaking waters with the dramatic silhouette
of Fort Boyard in the backdrop. Commanded
by navy veteran Yann Cariou, the Hermione
is crewed by 18 professional sailors and 54
passionate volunteers. Thousands of individual
donors have contributed to financing the
project, which has revitalized the economy
of Rochefort and lured almost four million
visitors to ooh and aah over the gold-andblue frigate.
“It’s been a marvelous adventure that we’ve
wanted to share with the public from its
genesis,” explains Maryse Vital, Director of
the Hermione La Fayette Association. The
Hermione was originally constructed in
Rochefort in 1780, and blueprint plans of a
sister ship were recovered in order to rebuild
to exact specifications: a keel crafted from
200 oaks, three masts, 19 linen sails, and a
whopping 26 kilometers of hemp lines.
After a 42-day transatlantic crossing in June
2015, the Hermione arrived in Yorktown,
Virginia, where Lafayette’s French troops
helped secure American victory. From there,
the Hermione sailed along the eastern
seaboard, with triumphant fetes in each
coastal port. On U.S. Independence Day, she
anchored in New York City.
But the adventure doesn’t stop there. Upon
return to France, the Hermione returned to
Rochefort. Visitors can count on a bevy of
related events and activities, like concerts,
carpentry demos, and tours with guides in
period costume. And for the 350th birthday
of the dockyard creation, the double dry-dock
shape becomes the setting of «Accromâts»,
an acrobatic course on the deck of a ship
-inspired by adventure parks but in a maritime
way-.
Vive l’Hermione!
Poitou-Charentes
14
Destination Atlantic Coast
Île d’Oléron
An easy island pearl just off the coast
Longing for somewhere untouristed where the ocean air tickles your skin, the
sand warms your feet, and you’ve still got all the little luxuries of France?
Île d’Oléron—France’s second biggest island after Corsica—delivers the best of
beaches without the crowds. Conjure up long days of sun and surf, sea-scented
cuisine, maybe even up the tempo for a moment with some water sports before
you take it back down hush. Unplug and adapt to a laid-back groove, where
the good things in life are cornerstones to la vie quotidienne. That beach chair
has your name on it.
T
he “luminous island”—as it’s known—
has a rare, wild quality to it, with pine
forests edging up against sand dunes.
Vacationers feel adventuresome plotting
their own course around the 160 kilometers
of pristine coastline. Take your pick of 25
untramelled beaches—from the west coast’s
Atlantic waves crashing upon the Grande
Plage to the gentler, protected sands of the
east coast appreciated by families with small
children. From Boyardville, you can loll on a
beach with views of Fort Boyard, seemingly
floating on the ocean.
Adrenaline hounds can try a number of
water sports like windsurfing, jet skiing, or
kitesurfing. The local tourist office can provide
a list of outfitters who rent equipment.
Venture north to what the locals call “the
end of the world,” to the Phare de Chassiron,
where you can climb the 224 steps to the top
Poitou-Charentes
for uninterrupted views of the coast. At the
foot of the lighthouse, the garden is designed
in the image of a navigational compass, today
classified one of the “Remarkable Gardens of
France.”
Île d’Oléron is known for the oysters cultivated
in the Marennes-Oléron basin. Representing
45% of oyster production in France, these
briny bivalves are matured in protected,
rectangular ponds where the ebb and flow of
the tides develop their texture and flavor. The
landscape is also distinguished by the rows
of colorful oyster huts, painted every shade
in the Crayola box. These cabins are almost
impossibly charming, and in La Baudissière,
they’ve been converted into artist ateliers.
Taste the ocean’s bounty at one of the island’s
many casual restaurants, where a plate of
oysters is served with a wedge of lemon and
glass of white wine. Cycle Route des Huîtres,
or oyster route, northwest from the Château
d’Oléron, a 17th-century fort, now serving as
a museum.
To reach Île d’Oléron, a toll-free bridge
connects the island to the mainland. It’s
only three kilometers away, but the barefoot,
down-to-earth vibe makes it feel a world
apart.
15
Blissful Beaches
Rest in Royan between adventures
Hands down, Poitou-Charentes has some of the best sunny beaches in all of
Europe. From the water to the woods, beach lolling and history-rich rambles,
there’s a diverse range of activities that ticks all the boxes for a proper beach
vacation. Happiness is the governing principle as sunseekers revel in the coast’s
luxury of space. Beach goers trade fashion for flip-flops on this stretch of soft
sand and wild coastal forests along the Arvert Peninsula.
O
n this strip of coast, life is about the
simple restorative pleasures: a gentle
climate, rugged views of the Atlantic
pounding the horizon, good food and dreamy
ocean sunsets. There’s adventure for those
who crave it, and straight-up relaxation for
those in need of good, old-fashioned rest.
Spend your days reading books, sipping
aperitifs at outdoor cafés, and collecting
seashells with your little ones, while the big
kids wander the casinos, surf, and bike.
roof resembles the soft ridges of a seashell.
Consider Royan home base, and go north to
wander the Côte Sauvage, or the Wild Coast,
for incredible views from the headlands, rich
pine forests, and the dunes protecting the
coastline from erosion. Take the kids to the
zoo at La Palmyre, home to an impressive
115 different animal species. Promenade
through coastal Les Mathes forest and bike
through woodsy La Coubre. Picnic at La Pointe
Espagnole for views of Île d’Oléron.
Sun-kissed Royan is one place that tops a long
list of resort favorites on the peninsula. Beyond
the fabulous beach—and its classic blueand-white striped tents—the architecture
is an intriguing juxtaposition of post-war
minimalist design and Belle Époque villas.
After considerable WWII destruction, the town
was proudly restored to showcase the latest
in urban architecture, which sharply contrasts
with the villas built by wealthy Parisian and
Bordelais holiday makers that first summered
here in 1875. Audacious modern marvels fall
among older architectural edifices like l’Église
Notre-Dame de Royan, reminiscent of a ship’s
hull, and les Halles, the covered market, whose
Southbound from Royan, explore the eastern
length of the Gironde Estuary, formed by
the Garonne and Dordogne Rivers spilling
into the Atlantic. Traditional fishing huts
called carrelets are distinctive to this place;
fishing nets are lowered into the water from a
perfect perch at the end of a pier-on-stilts. At
Meschers-sur-Gironde, you can tour grottos
where salty sea folk once made home. Don’t
miss Talmont-sur-Gironde, recognized as
a “Plus Beau Village de France.” Isolated on
a small peninsula, the picturesque hamlet
boasts flower-filled alleyways and a striking
cliffside church.
Poitou-Charentes
16
Destination Marais Poitevin
Marais Poitevin
France’s verdant Venice
Imagine a water world where children take boats to go to school, farmers sell
fresh-picked produce in floating markets, cattle are drifted from field to field,
and cottages have moorings at the end of their gardens. Such a marvelous
place exists in France, and it’s called the Marais Poitevin. Just 55 kilometers
from La Rochelle, the “Green Venice” is a labyrinth of tree-lined canals that’s
teeming with wildlife. The Marais Poitevin is so unique, it’s been designated
a Grand Site de France. This prestigious label is awarded only to protected
places with extraordinary character.
V
enture into the Marais Poitevin and you’ll
take a step back in time. Over 1,000
years ago, Benedictine monks created a
network of canals as they reclaimed the land
around the Golfe du Poitou for agricultural
fields. In the centuries that followed, marshes
were drained, and dykes were reinforced by the
Dutch engineers recruited by Henri IV. Today,
the waterways stretch thousands of kilometers
in length. A unique way of life was born in these
mysterious wetlands; it has remained isolated
and unchanged for centuries. When outsiders
Poitou-Charentes
stumbled into the marshes 200 years ago, they
were astonished by the aquatic culture that
had taken root here. Today, the traditional flatbottomed punts still ply the emerald canals,
colored that vivid green by floating duckweed.
wonder is split into three distinct zones—
the wet marsh, the dry marsh, and the Baie
de l’Aiguillon—and straddles three different
departments (Charente-Maritime, Deux-Sèvres,
and Vendée)."
Stretching from the ocean to the city of Niort,
the Marais Poitevin comprises the largest
wetlands in France after the Camargue—and
measures about nine times the size of the city
of Paris, or 970 square kilometers. As such,
the Marais Poitevin is also recognized as an
important Parc naturel régional. This natural
For travelers seeking the lesser-known, authentic
France experience, the Marais Poitevin is a great
choice. Despite its proximity to the Atlantic
coast, this verdant Venice is largely undiscovered
by international visitors, which means that
its zen character—as even the French would
describe it—has been preserved. What’s more,
17
you’ll truly be walking the talk of the locals by
staying in gîtes, or rental cottages and bed-andbreakfasts, just as the French would.
The unofficial capital of the Green Venice is
Coulon, a sun-drenched hamlet. On entering
Coulon, a road sign recommends you ralentissez
et admirez, or slow down and admire, and you’ll
want to do just that. The Coulon community
has been continuously inhabited since Neolithic
times, and today the village is brimming with
heritage sites. Take note of the Sainte-Trinité
church, constructed between the 11th and 15th
centuries, which has a covered pulpit located
outside the building. In the old customs house,
where officers would collect taxes on the goods
transported by waterway, the Maison du Marais
Poitevin is a window into the area’s history and
culture. There are three different exhibition
rooms, including one devoted to the eel (a fish
symbolizing the marsh), and also a reconstruction
of a maison maraîchine from the 19th century.
Make a stop at the adjacent boutique for local
products like angelica, a liqueur crafted from this
same botanical root prized for its digestive and
healing properties.
this emblematic architecture in the village of
Arçais, which was a big trading port in the 17th
century, inhabited by just 650 souls today. Old
merchant houses still stand in this “Petite Cité
de Caractère,” overlooking the sloping stone
embarcadère, or small wharf. Another must-see
village is Le Vanneau, where a floating market
takes place on the last Saturday in July. Here,
some 50 farmers transport their goods by boat
for visitors to buy.
But perhaps the village’s most famous site of
all is the maison aux volets bleus. Overlooking
the canal, this whitewashed house with blue
shutters is splashed across postcards as a
symbol of the Marais Poitevin. You’ll also find
Pilot the Waterways
S
tart in Coulon or Arçais to book a guided
boat tour or rent your own batai (as the
local, flat-bottomed boats are called) to
meander the marshes. Traditionally wooden poles
are used, but you can also opt for paddles. As
you drift into the greenery, you’ll notice the most
ideal hiding places for birds and beasts—willows
bend their branches into the water and tree
roots fortify the banks of the canal—like beavers,
deer, herons, kingfishers, and fish galore. There
is an astonishing array of flora and fauna here:
250 species of birds, 44 species of mammals, and
322 fish species. In fact, this biodiversity makes
the Marais Poitevin one of the richest natural
habitats in the country. This place is paradise for
hiking and biking enthusiasts with a penchant
for nature.
dreadlocked coat. Indigenous to the region, it is
also one of the oldest donkey breeds.
It’s also an important agricultural region, with
field after field of farmland. As you explore the
area, you’ll spy grazing cows and the Baudet of
Poitou, the donkey famous for his distinctive
The Green Venice showcases a remarkable
symbiosis between man and nature. Little
wonder that the Marais Poitevin was awarded
the European Destination of Excellence (EDEN)
To ensure that the Marais Poitevin’s natural and
cultural heritage is preserved, proud residents
are committed to sustainability. That’s why you’ll
find eco-friendly hotels, and also the annual
“Maraisthon,” France’s first eco-marathon.
Notably, the Maraisthon purchases carbon
offsets for each participant to compensate for
greenhouse gas emissions. Runners of the “fun
run,” the 10-km portion of the Maraisthon, are
treated to an organic breakfast at the finish line.
There’s also an 11-km walk led by local guides
to show off areas of the Marais Poitevin not
normally accessible to the public. Held every
June, the race has become so popular they have
begun to limit the number of runners!
in 2010. Whether by bike or by bateau, on foot
or on horseback, you’re guaranteed to recharge
your batteries, immersed in nature and a unique,
local culture.
Poitou-Charentes
18
Destination Marais Poitevin
A New Niort
Art de Vivre on Top
Not only is Niort considered the gateway to the Marais Poitevin, it is also treasured by locals for its quality
of life, buzzing cafes, and cultural events. Recently, many areas have been closed to traffic, rendering major
pedestrian-only zones all over the city. A perfect example of this metamorphosis is Place de la Brèche, which
had lost its soul when it was converted into an eyesore of a parking lot in the 20th century. Now the square
has been lovingly restored with gardens, pétanque courts, and picnic spots. Ideally situated between Poitiers
and La Rochelle, Niort is a place you’ll want to linger.
A
s the headquarters for many French
insurance companies, the capital
of the Deux-Sèvres department is a
strong economic hub. But the spirited student
population counterbalances that professional
vibe, and the city also boasts a rare link to
nature. In fact, Niort is literally connected
with the Marais Poitevin by a towpath on the
banks of the Sèvre Niortaise River. Converted
into a walking and bike path, the Coulée
Verte traverses the ville and continues into
the natural splendor of its neighboring Green
Venice.
Poitou-Charentes
Despite innovations, Niort holds on to its
heritage. One of the most emblematic historic
sites is the Donjon d’Aliénor d’Aquitaine, a
landmark monument that was part of the
12th-century royal chateau. Inside, don’t
miss the permanent exhibition, “Donjon, 1000
Years of History,” which tells the story of the
town during the Middle Ages and the Ancien
Régime.
To immerse yourself in local life, make sure to
stop by Les Halles. A soaring structure of glass,
cast iron, and steel, the covered marketplace
was originally constructed in 1869 in the
Baltard style. This gourmet mecca is open every
day except for Monday. Over 100 specialized
merchants show off their wares: a cornucopia
of local chèvre (goat cheese), charcuterie, and
fragrant fruits like melon charentais, straight
from the vine. In short, it’s the ideal place to
pick up treats for a picnic on the banks of the
river!
Niort’s clever transformation is also visible
in places like Villa Pérochon, a center for
contemporary photography. A number of
music festivals are held throughout the year.
Take note of summer concerts on the banks of
the Sèvre Niortaise River on Thursdays.
19
The Dry Marsh & Baie de l'Aiguillon
Mussels, marsh, and major bird-watching
Beyond the Marais mouillé, or wet marsh, the Marais Poitevin extends across green pastures all the way to
the Baie de l’Aiguillon. This is the Marais desséché, an off-the-path paradise for nature novices and fanatics
alike. Breathe the fresh country air in these wide-open spaces, before watching the sun set over the mud flats
of the Aiguillon Bay. There’s nothing better than relishing a bowl of moules marinière while staring out at the
bay that produced them.
T
he vast prairies of the dry marsh comprise
a unique landscape favoring biodiversity.
Here the ancient vestiges of the Golfe
des Pictons—where the medieval monks
reclaimed the marshes—result in a rich clay
soil that nurtures an Eden-like ecosystem. In
this mellow natural sanctuary, visitors revel
in outdoor adventure while on the lookout for
diverse plant and animal life. Bike or hike your
way through the dry marsh to catch a glimpse
of one of the 272 species of birds, including
kingfishers, storks, and herons. Indeed, these
marshes are an important stopover point for
myriad migratory birds flying from Siberia or
Northern Europe to Africa. Find out more at
the Réserve Natural Saint-Denis-du-Payre,
an ideal place to embark on a bird-watching
safari.
Far from tourist-trampled beaches, the
Aiguillon Bay is a unique destination between
the land and the sea, between man and
nature, where fresh river waters mingle with
the salty ocean. The marshes and mud flats
nurture shellfish, including some of the best
mussels in France. These moules are grown
on bouchots, or wood pilings, erected in the
bay’s shallow tidal waters. Stop by the Maison
de la Mytiliculture in Esnandes to learn all
about mussels, the Marais Poitevin’s marine
ecosystem, and the fishermen who harvest
them. Walk to the Pointe Saint-Clément, a
limestone cliff with a pleasing panorama over
the bay. The river empties into the Atlantic at
the fishing village of Charron, where you can
watch the tide of fishing boats from the Port
de Pavé. Residents of the area, many of them
fishermen, live in harmony with the seasons
and the rhythm of the tides. Indeed, this lesser
known part of Poitou-Charentes is a haven for
lovers of the great outdoors.
Poitou-Charentes
20
Destination
Futuroscope - Poitiers
Notre-Dame church during the Polychromies light show
Poitiers, Romanesque Capital
Past meets present in the “City of 100 Steeples”
Poised upon a plateau, Poitiers is a lively city—students hum along cobblestone
streets and revived avenues, representing a quarter of the population in this
Gallo-roman capital. The youthful energy stands out against the timeless
backdrop of one of most emblematic cities of Romanesque architecture in
France. “The City of 100 Steeples” is an apt moniker for a place that will have
you ambling through time—church bells escorting you from the past, to the
present, and on to the future.
I
t’s a sultry summer evening, and dazzling
lights bounce off the Église Notre-Dame
la Grande. Audacious explosions of color
brighten the shadowy figures on the church’s
sculpted façade, recreating the original hues
of the painted statues as they were in medieval
times. Our perception of this monochrome
Romanesque masterpiece is forever changed
once we see it at night during the summer
months. The ancient arches are brought to
phosphorescent life during a 15-minute light
Poitou-Charentes
show called the Polychromies. It’s hauntingly
beautiful, and a real example of how dynamic
Poitiers pays homage to its gloried past.
Poitiers is forever etched in the history books
because of two momentous victories that
secured the area under Frankish rule. Had
these battles gone the other way, France could
today belong to another country entirely.
Imagine that! The first was the battle against
the Visigoths, a nomadic branch of the Goths
who attempted to rule Gaul until Clovis I
led the Franks to defeat them in the Battle
of Vouillé in 507 AD. The second victory was
during the Bataille de Poitiers, where Charles
Martel led the Franks to victory against the
Islamic Umayyad caliphate in 732, ending
further Muslim attempts to conquer this part
of the continent. Poitiers was also the old
stomping grounds of Eleanor of Aquitaine,
who chose to rule her vast dominions from
the city that stole her heart.
21
E
verywhere you step in Poitiers, you
encounter remnants of its prestigious
past. Starting with the city’s ancient
ramparts, there are scores of classified historic
buildings, all carefully preserved. Admire one
of the oldest remaining Christian monuments
in Europe at the Baptistère Saint-Jean. Today,
you’ll spy Romanesque columns and delicately
carved stone sarcophagi dating as far back as
the 4th century. Nearby you can’t miss the
Cathédrale Saint Pierre, which soars above the
urban cityscape as the largest religious edifice
in Poitiers. Founded in 1162 by Eleanor of
Aquitaine and Henry Plantagenet, this church
showcases the architectural transition from
Romanesque to early Gothic style. The 12th
century stained glass windows are some of the
most exceptional in France. Catch the vividly
colored Crucifixion window, which portrays
benefactors Eleanor and Henry holding a
representation of this very same window.
Eleanor’s spirit also lives on in the Palais de
Justice, where she created a large assembly
hall called the salle des pas perdus, or the
hall of lost footsteps. Ramble on to discover
another notable vestige, the 11th-century
Église Saint-Hilaire. An important stop on the
Route of Santiago de Compostella, the church
is protected as a UNESCO World Heritage site.
as you wander through the nine hectares
of the Parc de Blossac. Designed in the
18th century, the park boasts a number of
meticulously maintained gardens, like the
jardin à la française, the sculpture-dotted
English garden, and even a small zoo with
guinea pigs and rabbits.
Always with attention to preserving historic
heritage, Poitiers has seen some considerable
overhaul of public spaces in recent years:
more green space, different traffic circulation
routes, pedestrian-only shopping areas, and
all sorts of behind-the-scenes renovations
that improve the quality of life for locals (the
Poitevins) and visitors alike.
Revel in this new and improved Poitiers as
you travel further into the future with the
city’s 20th- and 21st-century renovations. A
perfect example of how the city respects its
Roman heritage while it builds for the future
is the Médiathèque. Straddling the old and
new parts of the city, the cutting-edge media
library was built where the once fortified
Roman walls used to be. Archaeologists took
down a piece of the wall and reconstructed it
inside the building to create a direct dialogue
with the past. Other modern marvels include
Théâtre Auditorium de Poitiers and the Viaduc
Léon Blum.
To satisfy some more hedonistic desires,
follow the youngsters to enjoy the thriving bar
and restaurant scene and plenty of shopping
delights. Look for the city’s newer pedestrianonly area in the city center for big store
shopping and the Ilot des Cordeliers shopping
arcade which houses dozens of shops.
For shopping like it was done in times gone by,
stroll the Grand Rue, which starts near Église
Notre-Dame la Grande and wends its way
eastward to the Clain River. On this street,
one of the longest and oldest promenades
in Poitiers, you’ll appreciate exposed timberframed houses, small private hotels, and a
great number of artisanal shops and small
boutiques. Today you can still find art galleries,
an 18th-century candle making atelier, and
even an umbrella maker that has been here
for over 130 years.
And then take a hop, skip, and jump straight
to the future at the greatly-feted Futuroscope,
on the outskirts of town.
After basking in the relics of France’s first
moments in history, travel forward to the 18th
and 19th century on a promenade showing
off the city’s thoughtful approach to urban
planning. A walk down Rue Victor Hugo from
the Hotel de Ville to the Préfecture is a perfect
example of these wide boulevards. Almost
Haussmannian in style, these boulevards
greatly differ from the picturesque alleyways
winding through the old city center. The
Préfecture itself awes with richly decorated
reception rooms and a façade that echoes the
same semi-circular shape of Place Aristide
Briand at its entrance.
On the southwestern tip of the city center,
step out of the stone and into verdant vistas
Poitou-Charentes
22
Brune/Calune Prod/AEROPHILE/D LAMING, Architecte/Futuroscope
Destination
Futuroscope - Poitiers
© Futuroscope_Creation/Fotolia/Studio Ludo/S LAVAL/Robothespian - © Engineered Arts Limited 2012 - D LAMING, Architecte - M Vimenet - Toutain- Chorégraphies : Mourad Merzouki - CCN Créteil et du Valde-Marne/Compagnie Käfig.
Futuroscope, expect the unexpected...
Get away to one of France’s most popular amusement parks
and the only one of its kind in Europe!
Absorb the fantastic, fun and fairy-tale Futuroscope atmosphere
with over 25 original experiences waiting for you in our stunning
attraction theatres, as heart-thumping adventures, outrageous
thrills, mind-blowing journeys, the fairy-tale evening show and
fascinating attractions deliver delights to suit all tastes and ages!
“Magique! Genial! Fou! Incroyable… trop bien!”
These are the words you and your little ones will
come home shouting in chorus. It’s hard not
to be wowed by Futuroscope’s dizzying array
of entertainment. In fact, you’ll be signing up
groups of adult friends for a return visit entre
amis. Futuroscope is unique and the only one
of its kind in Europe. Off-the-charts sensory
experiences, innovative cinematic technology,
giant screens, titillating attractions, 3D rides
with 4D effects—these are the ways you’ll
learn science, geography, history, and the arts.
Very much a part of popular culture among
Poitou-Charentes
the French, Futuroscope is a theme park that
is meant to educate as much as it is to inspire.
When you arrive, collect your map (English
version available) to get the lay of the land
and plan your day around restaurants, picnic
spots, and show schedules. Depending on the
weather, you’ve got your choice of plenty
of indoor and outdoor activities over tons
of green space. Also worth noting: English
translation headsets are available.
Walk the park to explore everything from to
more sensory experiences like an adventure
in the dark lead by a blind guide. There’s also
hands-on musical fun with a giant wooden
xylophone. To treat the smallest babes,
journey to Children’s World, a safe outdoor
play area with dozens of activities and rides.
In between your explorations think to try one
of the seven themed restaurants, which range
from fast food and an all-you-can-eat buffet
to sit-down fine dining and a steak house grill.
Whether you’re hankering for comfort food or
a healthy salad, you’ll find gourmet delights
alongside the park’s thrilling attractions.
23
© JL AUDY/F JUILLE/AEROPHILE/D VANICHE, Architecte (DVVD) structure metallique/D LAMING, Architecte/F CASANOVA/FUTUROSCOPE
FOR
For a birds-eye view of the entire park, climb
Gyrotour, a 360-degree observatory that slowly
rotates upwards to 45 meters in the air, or try
the sky-high attraction, Aerobar. Designed by
the hot air balloon specialists at Aérophile, this
attraction carries passengers 35 meters up in
the sky, the equivalent of a 12-storey building.
Twelve guests are strapped in around a round
table with their feet dangling in the air. Not
only does the Aerobar serve up heart-stopping
views, but it also treats guests to a range of
libations and snacks during their five-minute
ride.
Award-winning Attractions
Luc Besson’s film work in Arthur, the 4D
Adventure was honored with the THEA
Award (2011) from the Themed Entertainment
Association. Projected on an IMAX dome, the
show takes viewers on an adventure with a
ICE AGE, the 4-D Experience
boy called Arthur in the fairytale world of the
Minimoys. Wearing 3D glasses, you have the
feeling you’ve shrunk in size as you whiz around
in a flying ladybug.
In 2014, the blockbuster hit The Time Machine
received the THEA Award. This immersive
experience gets rave reviews; it was also
awarded the European Star Award by the
Kirmes & Park Revue, Europe’s flagship leisure
industry magazine. With 3D images and 4D
effects, this journey takes you back in time
with the Lapins crétins, the popular comic
characters also known as the “Raving Rabbids”.
World-renowned DJ and producer Martin
Solveig created the musical set for Dances with
Robots. For heart-spinning fun, visitors can
choose from three different thrill levels before
sitting on a massive robot arm 23 feet in the
air. The robot arm spins you around the giant
dance floor to the beats of the music. This is
one of the few attractions with
a height restriction; children
FOR
must be at least 4 feet tall. Fret
not, you can watch from the
6
balcony too.
©ICE AGE Dawn of the DinosaursTM
Hairlarious!
Get in touch with your inner animal for family fun with
the characters from Ice Age as you go slip-sliding into epic
adventures with Sid and his friends, shivering in the snow and
trembling to T-Rex…
A totally cool immersive adventure featuring physical intheatre effects, a dynamic platform and laughs galore!
Spectacular New Evening Show
One of the best things about
Futuroscope is the ambiance
at night. The architecture
glows neon bright, and gigantic
sculptures are brought to life,
inspiring the feeling that you’re
on another planet in the space
age.
Be sure not to miss the new
evening show "La Forge aux
Etoiles" at one of the largest
water stages in Europe. Get
there early for a good seat to
enjoy spectacular pyrotechnics
and aquatic effects. The stateof-the art sound system renders
the experience all that much
"La Forge aux Étoiles"
6
From the creative minds behind the Cirque du Soleil
Futuroscope’s new evening show is a
big-bang blend of visual, aquatic and
pyrotechnical effects. The constellation of
fairytale scenes tells the story of a young
real girl who meets a virtual giant with
his feet on the ground and his head in the
stars.
Every evening after dark (included in the price of admission).
© Parc du FUTUROSCOPE/Cirque du Soleil
High in the Sky
more memorable, along with the water screens,
flames and fountains that surround this
amazing 7,000 square-meter lake.
Getting There & Deals
Futuroscope is 20 minutes by car or shuttle
from Poitiers, and just over an hour from Paris
by TGV. There is also a good array of hotel
accommodations, all within easy walking
distance from the park. Some of the latest
family deals include a full-day pass with one
night stay at 60 euros per person*, which
includes the evening show and breakfast.
Futuroscope is especially accommodating to
large school groups for which rates can drop
to half price depending on your group size and
the students’ ages. Check futuroscope.com for
up-to-date deals and prices.
* price per person on the Family rate basis (2 adults and
2 children aged 5-16) staying in a room for 4.
Poitou-Charentes
24
The Good Life
Saint Savin Abbey
UNESCO Heritage Sites
These cultural treasures are destinations themselves
Poitou-Charentes boasts its world-class heritage through a bevy of classified
monuments in the region. From the pilgrimage sites along the Way of Saint
James to the engineering prowess of the Sun King’s military engineer, the
region’s UNESCO World Heritage sites demonstrate a staggering breadth of
human genius. Each in their own matchless way, these sites are a reputable
testament to the limitless aptitude of humankind.
I
t’s one thing to read about this important
history, but there’s nothing like visiting
these places in person. As you share
jaw-dropping moments with your travel
companions, you learn volumes more than
the wisdom acquired from any textbook
description. Not only are you exposed to the
smells, textures, and real-time panoramic
vistas, but you are also regaled with deeper
insights from local guides, whose storytelling
brings these gloried locales to life.
The “Romanesque Sistine Chapel” is a moniker
that carries some serious weight, and the
Abbaye de Saint Savin, sitting proudly on the
banks of the Gartempe River just 45 minutes
Poitou-Charentes
from Poitiers, certainly lives up to that. You’d
be hard pressed to find more beautiful and
extraordinarily preserved Romanesque murals
in Western Europe. Painted in the 11th and
12th century on the vaulting of the nave, the
scenes depict intriguing moments from the
Old and New Testaments. The Galilee porch
pieces together the story of the Apocalypse.
Traveling west from Poitiers to the Atlantic,
you find forts, citadels, and ramparts that
together built a chain of defense along the
region’s coastline. Many of these incredible
remains are open to the public today.
In the 17th century, Louis XIV’s military
engineer Sébastien Le Prestre de Vauban
renovated these forts and erected new ones in
order to protect the trading port of La Rochelle
and the new arsenal at Rochefort. A series of
12 citadels have been granted UNESCO status
as a major historical contribution to military
architecture. One of the most stunning
examples is the commanding citadel in Saint
Martin on Île de Ré—with its magnificent
star-shaped ramparts and remodeled fishing
harbor. History buffs can admire additional
Vauban sites like Fort Vauban at Fouras, Fort
Louvois at Bourcefranc-le-Chapus, Fort de la
Rade on Île d’Aix and Fort Lupin on the banks
of the Charente.
25
Santiago de Compostela
Stunning UNESCO relics along the Way of Saint James
When the tomb of Saint James was uncovered in the 9th century, pilgrims from
all over Europe embarked on journeys to the site in northwest Spain. In order
to get there, they needed to traverse France on one of the four official routes.
Via Turonensis, or the Way of Tours, starts in Paris, passes through Tours, then
wends its way through Poitou-Charentes. Following the route through the
region will take you through remarkable stops in Poitiers, Saint-Jean-d’Angély,
Carte de Chemins
de St-Jacques-de-Compostelle
Melle, Aulnay, Saintes, and Pons. The religious constructions
built along
the
way are gorgeous white stone edifices, very much a part of the Romanesque
landscape that is so characteristic of the region today.
GR®36
T
raveling along rivers, through small villages, and into major
cities, pilgrims will find six destinations classified as official
UNESCO World Heritage sites associated with the Routes
of Santiago de Compostela. Église Saint Hilaire de Melle reveals
a complex floor plan to better receive large waves of pilgrims.
Eleventh-century Église Saint Hilaire de Poitiers was damaged in the
French Revolution and affectionately restored in the 19th century.
At Église Saint Pierre in Aulnay, you’ll find ancient carvings and signs
of the Zodiac as well as scenes from the Apocalypse. The Abbaye
royale de Saint Jean in Angély has maintained all of its medieval
charm, and Église Saint Eutrope in Saintes boasts a strikingly original
architectural layout. Last but not least, the Hôpital des pèlerins de
Pons was built, not only to receive pilgrims, but also to serve as a
welcoming place for those in need of physical or spiritual support.
A secondary pilgrimage route through Poitou-Charentes threads
through churches that may not be UNESCO-listed, but still showcase
striking architecture and a spiritual energy that’s almost palpable.
Some examples include Saint-Michel-d’Entraygues; the cathedral of
Saint-Pierre in Angoulême for its splendid façade; and the church
of Sainte-Radegonde in Talmont for its postcard perfect location on
the Gironde Estuary.
GR®655
Thouars
Châtellerault
Parthenay
GR®48
Poitiers
St-Savin
Lusignan
Niort
Montmorillon
Melle
Charroux
La Villedieu
Aulnay
St-Jean
d’Angely
Nanteuil-en-Vallée
St-Amant-de-Boixe
Saintes
Angoulême
Pons
Mirambeau
MontmoreauSt-Cybard
Aubeterresur-Dronne
BORDEAUX
Poitou-Charentes
26
Angles-sur-l’Anglin
The Good Life
Small Towns
Big Character
The main towns of Poitou-Charentes all have their individual attractions, but you can discover all kinds
of hidden gems by strolling the historic streets of its smaller communities too. Look out for the labels
Villes et Pays d’Art et d’Histoire and Petites Cités de Caractère, which assure visitors of a rich cultural
heritage and a warm, friendly welcome.
Les Plus Beaux Villages de France
(The Most Beautiful Villages in France)
Whenever you spot the sign for Les Plus Beaux Villages de France, get ready to stop.
You’ll find six of these unique communities in Poitou-Charentes, each one proud
to protect its heritage and lifestyle. In Charente, you’ll note Aubeterre-sur-Dronne with its vast
monolithic underground church and the Church of Saint-Jacques. In Charente-Maritime, there’s
the small harbor of Mornac-sur-Seudre, famous for its hollyhocks, oyster farming and salt; the
fishing and pleasure harbor of La Flotte with its 19th century quay and quiet streets; Ars-en-Ré,
home to salt workers and a black-and-white bell tower; and Talmont-sur-Gironde with its white
facades, blue shutters and the magnificent clifftop church of Sainte-Radegonde. In Vienne, you’ll
find the ruins of an 11th-century chateau at Angles-sur-l’Anglin, as well as a Magdalenian frieze
sculpted 15,000 years ago.
Villes et Pays d’Art et d’Histoire
(Art and History Towns and Areas)
From prehistory to the 21st century, the places labeled Villes et Pays d’Art et
d’Histoire all work hard to present their remarkable historic and architectural
heritage in the best possible light. Throughout the year you can enjoy guided tours, exhibitions,
and vibrant events in the towns of Rochefort, Saintes, Poitiers, Cognac, Royan and Thouars, as
well as in the broader areas around Angoulême, Confolens, Melle, Parthenay, Montmorillon, and
Châtellerault, and on the Île de Ré.
Poitou-Charentes
Melle
27
Petites Cités de Caractère
(Small Towns of Character)
Poitou-Charentes is dotted with little gems that are guaranteed to enchant visitors. And whatever
time of year you visit, you’ll receive a warm welcome from these relaxing communities labeled Small
Towns of Character.
Aubeterre-sur-Dronne
Aubeterre-sur-Dronne
At the gateway to the Périgord, this charming village overlooks the
Dronne river and boasts the largest underground cave church in
Europe, the monolithic church of Saint Jean.
Confolens
Built at the confluence of the Vienne and Goire rivers, Confolens was,
historically, a strategic stronghold. It retains many half-timbered
houses dating from the Middle Ages of which the best known is that
of the Duke of Epernon. In August each year, the town vibrates to
the rhythms of traditional dance and world music at the famous
international festival of folklore.
Villebois-Lavalette
On the boundaries of Charente and at the gateway to the Périgord,
Villebois-Lavalette is a charming village perched on a hilltop. Protected
by its imposing medieval chateau, the center enchants visitors with its
17th-century markets and typical narrow streets.
Saint-Savinien
Winding around a meander of the Charente river at the foot of a
limestone cliff, in Saint-Savinien-sur-Charente you can walk through
its quays, gardens and narrow streets to gain a better understanding of
its history that is so closely tied to river trade.
Talmont-sur-Gironde
Located to the south of Royan, Talmont-sur-Gironde is a traditional
fortified village, or ‘bastide’ in French, overlooking the Gironde estuary.
Dominating the village is Sainte-Radegonde church, the village’s main
attraction and a beautiful example of the Saintonge Romanesque
style. The neighboring marine cemetery is equally remarkable.
Airvault
Airvault stands out for its rich medieval heritage: 10th-century abbey,
church of Saint Pierre, ruins of the chateau, medieval bridges, but also
its 19th-century covered markets that are still in use today.
Arçais
Located at the heart of the Marais Poitevin, Arçais can be explored
along its network of navigable man-made canals constructed in the
19th century, its small private ports and traditional Maraîchin houses.
Celles-sur-Belle
This former stop on the Way of Saint James is famous for the
majestic architecture of its 17th-century royal abbey and the church’s
noteworthy Romanesque doorway.
Coulon
At the heart of the Marais Poitevin, Coulon is the capital of the Green
Venice. Indeed, its port was one of the most important in the Sèvre
Niortaise basin. Today, the boatmen are in action all year long as the
traditional flat-bottomed boats are the ideal way to discover the
Marais.
Oiron
A small wine-making town, Oiron is famous for its Renaissance
chateau which houses a collection of contemporary art. Works of art
are also on display in public spaces and can be enjoyed while you walk
through the town’s streets.
La Mothe-Saint-Héray
The town follows the flow of the Sèvre Niortaise river that gives it all
its charm, narrow streets in washhouses, bridges in gardens along the
riverbank.
Melle
A Roman city on the Pilgrim’s Way with three noteworthy buildings,
including the church of Saint Hilaire, a UNESCO World Heritage site,
Melle has surprises in store for visitors.
Saint-Loup-sur-Thouet
Charming village on the banks of the Thouet, whose main road leads
to the 17th-century chateau and possesses beautiful half-timbered
houses.
Celles-sur-Belle
8 villages are in the process of accreditation:
In Charente: Bourg-Charente, Nanteuil-en-Vallée, Tusson and
Verteuil-sur-Charente
In Charente-Maritime: Saint-Sauvant
In Deux-Sèvres: Mauléon
In Vienne: Charroux and Monts-sur-Guesnes
Poitou-Charentes
28
The Good Life
Tasting Notes
Consumers today are becoming increasingly concerned about "food miles," the distance traveled by a
food product from producer to plate. But eat out in Poitou-Charentes and you can enjoy maximum flavor
and freshness with minimal impact on the environment. Few areas can offer such a wide variety of local
ingredients covering all tastes and culinary occasions.
Simple or sophisticated, the region’s cuisine is based on quality produce
sourced from the rich waters of the Atlantic and the fertile fields of the
mainland. Just browse the stalls at any local market for a snapshot of
what’s on offer. Stalls are piled high with colorful fruit and vegetables,
just bursting with sunshine and flavor, as well as fish, meat and game
from the surrounding area.
Poitou-Charentes can even provide its own range of delicious drinks to
complement the flavors of its food, whether you want a soft drink for
younger visitors and drivers, or something a little stronger. The region
is world-famous as the home of cognac, but the AOC wines of HautPoitou are the perfect accompaniment to everyday meals, with vintages
in red, white and rosé, and the region’s many orchards are the source of
delicious farm-fresh fruit juices.
A typical Poitou-Charentes meal could start with an aperitif of apple or
grape juice, a cocktail spiced up with a dash of cognac, or perhaps some
chilled Pineau des Charentes, a subtle blend of grape juice and cognac.
Popular appetizers include juicy Charentais melons, hollowed out and
filled with Pineau, and of course the region’s supreme seafood - green
oysters from Marennes-Oléron, mussels from the Île de Ré and the Baie
de l’Aiguillon, and platters piled high with mixed shellfish.
All kinds of fish are landed daily at harbors such as La Cotinière on the Île
d’Oléron, shrimp capital of the region, as well as Royan and La Rochelle
Poitou-Charentes
29
on the mainland. If you fancy something a bit different, try a traditional
plate of marsh eel from the Marais Poitevin, grilled, marinated or slowcooked in a casserole.
But Poitou cuisine isn’t only about fish. Tempt your tastebuds with
succulent lamb, tender beef, or a dish of seasonal game. To go with them,
choose tiny new potatoes from the Île de Ré, sprinkled with fleur de sel sea
salt and perhaps a knob of creamy butter that carries the AOC quality label
– Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée.
AOC status has also been awarded to the Chabichou du Poitou, an
essential component of any regional cheese board. This full-flavor
cheese is just one of several goats’ cheeses produced in the area, but
you’ll find other varieties made from cows’ and sheep’s milk too.
Leave room for a dessert though, because Poitou-Charentes is home to
scrumptious traditional recipes such as broyé du Poitou, a sweet butter
biscuit decorated with sliced almonds, and tourteau fromager, a soft cake
set in a crisp pastry crust. Made with fresh goat’s cheese, it’s easy to spot
with its ‘burnt’ domed top.
And to finish off? A glass of cognac or angelica liqueur, of course. Santé!
Floating Market - each end of July - Le Vanneau
Poitou-Charentes
30
The Good Life
Made in Poitou-Charentes
Keepsakes worth keeping for family, friends...and you
One of the greatest vacation pleasures is choosing the gifts that will remind you of
your happy holiday. Who says a souvenir needs to be a plastic snow globe or T-shirt
with the Eiffel Tower on it? The region of Poitou-Charentes is home to a plethora
of artisans whose locally made treasures make for swoonworthy gifts. From boots
to bonbons, you can take home an authentic piece of Poitou-Charentes while
supporting craftsmanship and time-tested savoir faire. Whether you’re looking for
fashion, home goods, or gourmet treats, our recommendations will surely inspire.
Good for the Sole
Since 1853, Aigle has produced its famous
handmade rubber boots, les bottes bleus, next
to Châtellerault on the banks of the Vienne
River. These well-crafted boots require 15
different types of materials and 60 different
steps to put them together. Today they are
available in a rainbow of colors and exported to
over 100 different countries worldwide.
Another oft-heralded footwear brand is a kind
of slipper the French call les Charentaises.
Originating in the Angoulême region in the
17th century, they were once fashioned from
left-over scraps of felt used by the paper mills
set up along the Charente’s riverbanks. They
were tucked inside wooden clogs for comfort.
It wasn’t until the 1950s that these slippers
Poitou-Charentes
achieved global renown. For the real deal, look
for the Rondinaud, Degorce or Tcha brands.
The region has a reputation for outstanding
handcrafted leather goods. One such artisan
is Clémence Nerbusson. She makes bespoke
leather shoes, carefully fabricating one pair at
a time in the village of Champdeniers. Look for
her brand: Fleur de Souliers.
There’s a Bag for That
For accessories that are as eye-popping as the
region’s landscapes, consider a leather bag
from Laurige. Founded in 1950 in Niort, Laurige
continues the city’s tradition of fine, artisanal
leathermade products. In 2008, Laurige was
awarded "Entreprise du Patrimoine vivant" by
the Ministry of Culture. Another noteworthy
Non-exhaustive list
31
leather maker is La Manufacture du Cuir, based
in the small village of Saint Aubin le Cloud in the
Deux-Sèvres department.
On Île de Ré, a company called RéSac makes
original bags out of recycled oyster sacks. It all
started at the Ars-en-Ré morning market, where
a duo of crafty ladies, both wives of oyster
farmers, brainstormed creative ways to ensure
their business was eco-friendly. Thus RéSac was
born, and now also includes a unique line of bike
baskets, shopping bags, table mats—all made
from recycled materials like sails and boat ropes.
Look also for the bags of EspritVoiles brand,
items created with boat sails.
Body & Spirit
Travelers to France flock to the country’s
pharmacies to pick up beauty products and
cult favorites that they won’t see at home. One
such brand is La Roche-Posay, whose skincare
products (like Anthelios sunblock) have a
global following. La Roche-Posay originated in
a spa resort town of the same name in PoitouCharentes. The commune of La Roche-Posay
is known for its hot springs, whose thermal
waters have healing properties for sensitive skin.
The beauty products are packed with precious
minerals found in these hot springs.
Another company that takes advantage of the
region’s natural bounty is Laboratoire Léa Nature,
behind the scenes for popular organic brands
like Lift'Argan, SO'BiO étic, Natessance, plus
the must-have product line infused with Jonzac
thermal waters. A focus on environmentally
friendly products is also found at Laboratoire
Body Nature, a family-owned enterprise that’s
been based in the Deux-Sèvres since 1972.
Poitou-Charentes is France’s largest goat farming
region, and scientists at the Amaltéa Laboratoire
formulate lotions and potions made from goat’s
milk. The milk’s nourishing qualities have been
known since Antiquity, and today these creams
make coveted collectables. Likewise, donkey milk
from Île de Ré’s famous ânes is transformed
into sweet-smelling soaps and cosmetics at the
Asinerie des Varennes, and also the Savonnerie
de Ré in Loix.
In La Rochelle, look for Savonnerie Bertaud shop
for traditional and natural soaps.
Fine Feast & Drink
Starting with cognac, you can tempt your
palate with a dazzling array of gourmet treats
in Poitou-Charentes. Butter addicts find the
holy grail of the splendid spread at Echiré,
which is fabricated using age-old methods like
churning in wood barrels. Echiré is served at the
finest tables in the world, including the Elysée
presidential palace. Just a few kilometers away,
the sister factory, Pamplie, also produces divine
butters. Another excellent choice is le beurre de
Surgères. Tip: You can actually freeze these fine
butters to take them home with you.
can even find salt “pebbles” which are used for
preparing pasta. Each galet is the perfect dose
of salt to add to a pot of boiling water.
In the green marshes of the Marais Poitevin,
an indigenous, umbelliferous plant called
angelica has been cultivated since the Middle
Ages for its medicinal virtues. Angélique gets
its heaven-sent name because the aromatic
plant was believed to cure snakebites and ward
off the Plague. In the 18th century, nuns began
candying the stems of the plant. This ancestral
savoir faire lives on today with an array of
specialties derived from Angélique, including a
botanical liqueur.
Other gourmet delicacies include rillettes and
pâtés from Grillon charentais, found in butcher
shops across the region; locally grown saffron
from the Safraniers du Poitou-Charentes;
pastries like tourteau fromagé, a cake made
with goat’s milk; and the Broyé du Poitou,
butter cookies traditionally served at weddings
and other familial fetes.
The region’s fleur de sel is another noteworthy
enticement. Harvested by hand according to
traditional techniques, the Île de Ré’s sea salt
is coveted by chefs around the world. The
Sauniers de l’Île de Ré offer a line of 40 unique
products at their cooperative’s boutique. You
Poitou-Charentes
32
The Good Life
Terroir on Two Wheels
Biking itineraries for every kind of rider
Maybe you’re a sleek-jersey-wearing cycling pro. Or maybe you’re more likely to
watch the Tour de France from your armchair and then leisurely pedal for a few
kilometers in search of the perfect picnic spot. Either way, biking through the
region of Poitou-Charentes affords an excellent window to the scenery. The bike
is the ideal vehicle for covering a lot of ground, while still remaining intimately
connected to the landscape. Traverse the region’s changing terrain—from forest
to coastline, from islands to hilly pastures—and stop along the way to explore a
village, meet a winemaker, and taste local delicacies.
Ride to Connect
Western France
In June 2015, a brand new route was
launched connecting the Northern beaches
of Normandy to the sunny plages of
Poitou-Charentes. And it’s a life-changing
event for long distance cyclists. Covering
a diverse variety of terrain, the V43, Vélo
Francette Route, stretches 630 kilometers
of continuous, signposted paths from
Ouistreham to La Rochelle. You’ll roll along
the water’s edge and delight at pretty
towns and tiny villages in the tranquil
French countryside.
The itinerary goes a little like this. You set
off from the famous Normandy landing
beaches; follow the tow-path along the
Mayenne Canal; ogle the chateaux in the
Loire Valley between Angers and Saumur;
ride through the Thouet Valley in DeuxSèvres and the Marais Poitevin, before
finally arriving in La Rochelle, where we
recommend a well-deserved swim.
www.lavelofrancette.com
Poitou-Charentes
Hug the Atlantic Coast
Stretching
for
1,200
kilometers between Roscoff in northern
Brittany and Hendaye in French Basque
country, the Vélodyssée Route is actually
the French portion of the European route
called Euro Vélo Route 1, which starts in
Norway at Cap Nord and finishes at Sagres
in Portugal. The Vélodyssée is the longest
French cycle trail whose route is 80%
reserved for cyclists, so you won’t have
to worry about pesky drivers whizzing by.
The route passes through the CharenteMaritime department on a 150 kilometers
stretch that’s made for easy and safe
cycling. You’ll traverse protected natural
areas and take in the area’s extraordinary
architectural, maritime, and gastronomic
heritage. Tempting stops along the way
include La Rochelle, Rochefort, Royan,
the Wet and Dry marshes of the Marais
Poitevin, the Marennes-Oléron oyster beds,
and the lush forest of La Coubre.
www.velodyssey.com
»
TIP
Choose to travel by boat along the
Charente River and you can take your
bike aboard for excursions along the
adjacent cycling paths and off-piste into
the vineyards and the woods. For more on
biking in Poitou-Charentes, go to:
www.visit-poitou-charentes.com/en/Cycling.
33
Nuzzle with Nature
Passing though Thouars and Parthenay,
the 120-km Thouet Valley route promises
a restorative immersion in nature. This
course is actually part of the new 630-km
Vélo Francette Route. On this journey, you’ll
weave on and off the Way of St. James, and
perhaps meet some pilgrims, wearing the
traditional scallop shells around their necks,
on their way to Santiago de Compostela in
Spain. The itinerary will sweep you along
rural paths where ancient villages serve as
picturesque rest stops. You’ll savor stunning
architecture. Even the bridges provide the
perfect photo op!
For wildlife lovers, look out for the Rosalie
des Alpes, the protected longhorn beetle
with amazingly long antennae, which
can be found in the area. You will arrive
in Parthenay via the Vau Saint-Jacques
neighborhood and its fortified tower, which
we recommend that you visit in the evening,
when you’ll be transported back to the time
when medieval tradesmen made merry in
the narrow cobblestone streets. Note that
the cycling route’s official web site includes
a list of addresses for bike rentals and the
local tourism offices.
www.valleeduthouet.fr
Utterly unique, the Marais Poitevin
comprises a variety of different landscapes
from the open stretches of dry marshland
to the calm waters of the wetlands. On the
bike paths, you’ll ride along the labyrinth of
waterways, streaming through the sun and
the shade under a green forest canopy. This
flat terrain is a place for everyone to enjoy,
even the youngest family members who are
new to adventures on two wheels.
From Ocean to Sea by Canal
From water to water and all the green
space in between, consider an exceptional
route that links the Atlantic and the
Mediterranean, called “Canal des Deux
Mers,” or the canal of two seas. It’s an
800-km ride beside the Canal de Garonne
and the UNESCO-listed Canal du Midi
replete with unforgettable panoramas and
landmark sites.
Starting in Charente-Maritime on the first
part of the route, you’ll see where the
Gironde and the Atlantic Ocean meet. Shortly
afterwards, you observe the confluence of
rural and maritime landscapes, and see how
they are influenced by the estuary.
www.canaldes2mersavelo.com
For the Cognac Connoisseur
The Cognac trails are a great way to explore
the region on foot, but most certainly also
by bike. A network of trails enables cyclists
to explore the fabulous landscapes of the
Charente River area at their own pace.
Pedal along the riverbanks through the
vineyards and stop in the heritage towns
such as Cognac and Jarnac, Chateauneufsur-Charente, Rouillac, and Segonzac. There
are a surprising variety of vistas here and
color-coded signage to show you the way.
Five main themed routes link winegrowers,
craftsmen, and hoteliers of the region,
everyone eager to share their corner of the
world. Look for “Les Etapes du Cognac.”
A Little Loop Through Vienne
A relatively flat 17-km loop through the
Vienne department starts from the quayside
at Cenonsur-Vienne to the Parc de Crémault
at Bonneuil-Matours. You’ll follow the left
bank of the river for magnificent scenery
and tons of bird watching. Spot heron, duck,
and tern. You can also explore the history
of the valley and surrounding countryside
through watermills, castles, and whitestone hamlets.
Roll Through the Green Venice
Marais Poitevin, the wetland marvel that
comprises an important Regional Park, is
an ideal place to go cycling. There are 850
kilometers of signposted itineraries from
Niort to the Atlantic, 300 kilometers in
Deux-Sèvres alone. Nicknamed the Green
Venice, the entire area has been adapted
by man in many different ways over the
centuries, beginning in the Middle Ages
when monks carved canals from the ancient
Golfe des Pictons. The result: seriously
striking scenery for cycling enthusiasts.
Poitou-Charentes
34
The Good Life
Family Frolics
Natural & man-made playgrounds, fun for adults too
Finding a trip rich in activities that satisfies both adults and children is often an
elusive pursuit. But it does exist. Find your bliss in Poitou-Charentes. The region’s
beaches and green spaces are the best natural playground for kids. Add fairytale
castles, boat trips in the Marais Poitevin, and the high-tech attractions of
Futuroscope, and you have a potent mix that’s kid-approved and adult-friendly
too. But beyond these obvious child-centric delights, the region offers a varied
choice of creative, fun, and educational things to experience. Ready, set, go!
Poitou-Charentes is firmly on the Frenchfamily radar when it comes to vacation
destinations. The coastal beaches are the
launch pad for water sports adventures,
while endless cycling paths make for happy
discoveries by vélo. Close to nature, take your
kids to collect seashells, bucket and spade in
the sand; canoe the green waterways of the
Marais Poitevin; and go fishing in a number
of places, including Pescalis, a nature reserve
near Parthenay that’s renowned among
anglers for fish-stocked ponds. And kids go
gaga over the loud chorus of frogs.
Unanticipated detours lead to ancient
villages, Roman ruins, and ramparts where
little explorers come face to face with the
past. Rendezvous with history at any number
of heritage sites. At La Rochelle’s old port,
Poitou-Charentes
the trio of towers just begs to be climbed.
Many chateaus stage medieval fairs with
costumed knights and ladies straight out of
the Middle Ages. Near Niort in the butter
capital of Echiré, the 13th-century Château
du Coudray-Salbart hosts events like Easter
egg hunts, medieval fetes, and a Halloween
extravaganza complete with costumed
sorcerers. Other notable castles include the
14th-century Château de Saint-Mesmin at
Saint-Andre-sur-Sevre and the dramatically
perched Château de la Rochefoucauld. In
Chauvigny, witness medieval-style falconry at
a spectacular show called Les Géants du Ciel,
or giants of the sky. Staged within the ancient
Château des Evêques, the animated shows
feature magnificent raptors and birds of prey.
On the coast, the region’s rich maritime history
comes to life with top-notch museums and
Video
sites, like the Corderie Royale, the Hermione
boatyard in Rochefort, and the Phare des
Baleines lighthouse on Île de Ré.
35
Lions and tigers and bears, oh my!
L
a Rochelle’s Aquarium is one of the
most popular attractions on the coast.
Jules Verne-style, visitors are immersed
in an underwater world, while gleaning
insights into the importance of marine
conservation. First, you hop on an old-school
“submarine” to descend to the ocean floor,
before charting your course through the
planet’s great oceans, starting with the
Atlantic. In the tropical Caribbean and the
Indo-Pacific, you’ll gape at the colorful coral
reefs, teeming with a kaleidoscope of sea life.
In the deep-sea ocean, the tanks appear like
a theatrical stage, with translucent, dancing
jellyfish stealing the show. There’s even a
massive shark tank! Your return portal to the
real world is the tropical greenhouse, where
a jungle of palms and ferns towers above the
fresh-water habitat for piranhas.
An added bonus: the Aquarium’s café is a
great place to refuel after pondering the
marvels of the ocean deep. The menu focus is
on organic produce and sustainably sourced
seafood. Crowning the building’s greenhouse
atrium, the café has panoramic views over
the sailboat marina towards the Old Port. On
nice days, the terrace is the perfect perch for
soaking up some sunshine while diving into a
tasty déjeuner.
the largest privately-owned animal park in
Europe. With a focus on conservation, the
zoo is home to 1,600 mammals, birds, and
reptiles representing 115 different species,
including some endangered. The “Ape Space”
deserves a special shout out, a site devoted
to chimpanzees, orangutans, and gorillas. The
zoo has garnered acclaim for its exceptional
habitats and the quality of life afforded the
animals.
Monkeys are also the main attraction at the
Vallée des Singes, or Monkey Valley, situated
in Romagne between Poitiers and Angoulême.
Take a walk into the wilderness along shaded
walkways that wind past cascades and water
features. Without cages, over 40 species of
primates have free rein here, from the tiniest
pygmy marmosets and lemurs to bonobos,
and the mighty gorilla.
Thirty minutes from Poitiers, La Planète des
Crocodiles, or Crocodile Planet, is housed in a
lush, tropical greenhouse. Have face-to-face
encounters with crocs from five continents,
and perhaps see babies in the nursery.
Adventurers can ogle a different kind of
animal menagerie at the region’s top-rated
zoos and animal parks. Nestled in a pine
forest near Royan, the Zoo de la Palmyre is
Located in Villiers-en-Bois in the DeuxSèvres department, Zoodyssée is a forested
animal park devoted to European fauna.
Little adventurers can spy lynx, wolves, and
storks in the park, or convene with furry and
feathered friends at the Mini Ferme, or petting
farm. Domesticated animals are also the life
of the party at Mouton Village in Vasles,
where 23 different sheep breeds are nurtured,
and L’Asinerie du Baudet du Poitou, an
educational farm devoted to the indigenous
long-haired donkey found throughout the
fields of Poitou-Charentes.
After a fun-filled day, why not bed down in
a yurt, mushroom house, tree house, or cabin
custom-made for stargazing? Défi Planet,
on the Domaine de Dienné, specializes in
unusual accommodations just 25 minutes
from Poitiers and Futuroscope. The park itself
offers a variety of activities including ropes
courses, a riding school, archery and hiking
trails.
A Food-friendly Aside
Your kids may just have a gourmet epiphany
while discovering the delights of local chèvre
and fish soup. Long hailed as the center of the
gastronomic universe, France beguiles visitors
with its food-centric culture, and children’s
ability to enjoy a varied diet. From the days they
show their first teeth, Petit Poitevins are used
to four-course meals - just look at the lunch
menu at the local schools. A sojourn in PoitouCharentes won’t just be food for the soul; it will
also tickle the tastebuds!
Cameras ready to capture the happy Kodak
moments?
Poitou-Charentes
36
The Good Life
Poitou-Charentes is one of the top regions in France in
terms of EU eco-labeled accommodation.
In 2006, ‘Les Orangeries’ in Lussac-les-Chateaux was the first establishment
in France to be named as Eco-label friendly. Today, the region has 28 Eco-label
accommodation products. A ‘Club’ of the Eco-labeled facilities was inaugurated in
December 2009 and aims to establish common initiatives for all its members. This is
the only official organization of its type fully recognised by the EU. Members must
adhere to certain practices: reduced water consumption, diminished quantity of
non-recyclable trash, reduced energy consumption, use of reusable energy, use of
ecofriendly products and materials, breakfast featuring organic and local products,
communication and establishment of good environmental practices.
EU Eco-labeled Accommodations Club in Poitou-Charentes *
Camping Village Center
Côte Sauvage
Hôtels
17590 Saint Clément des Baleines
Tél. + 33 (0)5 46 29 46 63
www.village-center.fr
Hôtel-Restaurant
et Spa Plaisir
Camping Les Baleines
17580 Le-Bois-Plage-en-Ré
Tél. + 33 (0)5 46 09 00 26
www.hotel-plaisir.com

17590 Saint Clément des Baleines
Tél. + 33 (0)5 46 29 40 76
www.camping-lesbaleines.com
Hôtel Les Vignes
de la Chapelle
17740 Sainte-Marie-de-Ré
Tél. + 33 (0)5 46 30 20 30
www.lesvignesdelachapelle.com
Hôtel P’tit Déj-Hôtel Ile de Ré

17740 Sainte-Marie-de-Ré
Tél. + 33 (0)5 46 30 33 20
www.ptitdej-hotel-iledere.com
Hôtel Best Western
Masqhôtel ****
86530 Availles-en-Châtellerault
Tél. + 33 (0)5 49 19 76 08
www.lepigeonnierduperron.com
Hôtel Les Orangeries
86320 Lussac-les-Châteaux
Tél. + 33 (0)5 49 84 07 07
www.lesorangeries.fr
79510 Coulon
Tél. + 33 (0)5 49 35 90 36
www.camping-laveniseverte.fr
Camping Au Port Punay
17340 Châtelaillon-Plage
Tél. + 33 (0)5 17 81 00 00
www.camping-port-punay.com
Camping La Brande
17480 Le Château d’Oléron
Tél. + 33 (0)5 46 47 62 37
www.camping-labrande.com
Camping Au Pigeonnier

17480 Le Château d’Oléron
Tél. + 33 (0)5 46 47 62 20
www.camping-aupigeonnier.fr
Gîte La Maison Triangulaire
3 épis
16310 Roussines
Tél. +33 (0)6 78 30 81 96
Gîte de la Pradelle
3 épis
16330 Vars
Tél. +33 (0)5 45 90 55 65
gite.lapradelle.fr
Gîtes de La Guillaumette
3 clés
17450 Fouras
Tél. + 33 (0)5 46 84 08 23
www.laguillaumette.com
Gîtes Jasmin et Seringat
3 clés
17500 Jonzac
Tél. + 33 (0)5 46 49 63 02
Chambres d’hôtes Le
Berceau* 1 clé
Gîte La Cabrette et La
Gatinelle
79200 Pompaire
Tél. + 33 (0)5 49 64 30 33
www.ungiteaupre.com
Gîte et chambre d’hôtes
Couette et Potager d’Antan
3 épis
79500 Pouffonds
Tél. + 33 (0)5 49 29 95 13
www.coubortiges-gites.com
Gîte La Clé des Champs
4 épis
79240 Scillé
Tél. + 33 (0)6 08 45 54 06
www.gitesdesfrenaies.com
Gîte de la Dive 2 épis
86700 Payré
Tél. + 33 (0)5 49 03 10 69
www.moulindeladive.com
Chambre d’hôtes La Tours
des Cavaliers 3 épis
17132 Meschers-sur-Gironde
Tél. +33 (0)6 50 36 84 44
86350 Payroux
Tél. + 33 (0)5 49 87 81 47
www.tour-des-cavaliers.com
Gîte Le Moulin de Jamette
3 épis
Chambre d’hôtes La Chambre
des Moulins 4 clés
17350 Saint-Savinien
Tél. +33 (0)6 78 79 77 32
www.le-moulin-de-jamette.fr
86000 Poitiers
Tél. + 33 (0) 9 51 08 72 12
www.chambredesmoulins.fr
Le Chambon - Sport &
nature en Charente
Chambres d’hôtes Domaine
de l’Estuaire
Gîte La Cavalière 2 épis
16220 Eymouthiers
Tél. + 33 (0) 5 49 45 70 70 42
www.lechambon.org
17150 St Thomas de Conac
Tél. +33 (0)5 17 24 19 70
www.domainedelestuaire.com
Village de Vacances
Océanique
Gîtes de la Fontaine
3 et 4 épis
17580 Le Bois-Plage-en-Ré
Tél. + 33 (0)5 46 09 23 22
www.village-océanique.com
La Fragnée - 79170 CHIZE
Tél. + 33 (0)6 82 07 69 57
www.lesgitesdelafontaine.fr
Auberge de La Rochelle
Gîte Petit Paradis
4 épis
Camping du Lac
de Saint-Cyr
86130 Saint-Cyr
Tél. + 33 (0)5 49 62 57 22
www.campinglacdesaintcyr.fr
Group Accommodations
Campings
Poitou-Charentes
Camping
La Venise Verte
86410 Diénné
Tél. + 33 (0)5 49 45 87 63
www.defiplanet.com/sejours
Hôtel Le Pigeonnier
du Perron
17300 Rochefort
Tél. + 33 (0)5 46 82 67 70
www.ville-rochefort.fr
17190 Saint Georges d’Oléron
Tél. + 33 (0)5 46 76 52 29
www.camping-les-gros-joncs.com
Défi Planet PRL
17000 La Rochelle
Tél. + 33 (0)5 46 41 83 83
www.masqhotel.com
Camping
Le Rayonnement
Camping
Les Gros Joncs
Gîtes and Guest Houses
17000 La Rochelle
Tél. + 33 (0)5 46 44 43 11
www.fuaj-aj-larochelle.fr
CPA Lathus
86390 Lathus-St Rémy
Tél. + 33 (0) 5 49 91 83 30
www.cpa-lathus.asso.fr
Centre La Cavalière
86350 Saint-Secondin
Tél. + 33 (0) 5 49 59 51 18
86350 Saint-Secondin
Tél. + 33 (0)5 49 03 10 69
www.villageaccueilgroupes.fr
79160 Coulonges-sur-l’Autize
Tél. + 33 (0)6 08 45 54 06
www.gitesdesfrenaies.com
Gîte Les Sources de
Taillepied 4 épis
79170 Paizay-le-Tort
Tél. + 33 (0)5 49 05 93 00
www.gitedetaillepied.fr
* List dated November 5, 2015
37
Arrive & Revive
Embedded in nature, literally
Imagine waking up to the sounds of nature: the twitter of birds, the rustle of
wind through the trees, the splash of spring water. The city’s white noise is
erased from your memory—all this, but you’re not in a tent on the hard, cold
ground. Instead, you’re tucked away under a plush duvet. These are a few of
our favorite places to stay in Poitou-Charentes that bring you closer to nature,
and demonstrate the art of hospitality at the same time.
Nesting in the Trees
Just 30 minutes south of Poitiers, the Parc de
la Belle is a woodsy 12-hectare forest where
you can overnight in tree houses. There’s no
electricity, so you can happily unplug and
instead, tune into your family, your friends,
and your arboreal ambiance. This is camping
in style and spirit: there’s no shower in your
tree house, and you may have some squirrely
visitors, too.
Cabane Mira is another place to find a crib
up in the trees, but what’s unique here is an
egg-shaped “LOV’NID.” Perched eight meters
off the ground, this “love nest” is designed
as a wood sphere resembling a walnut. From
this magical aerie, you can stargaze from
a porthole-like skylight above your bed, or
sprawl outside on the wood deck, accessed by
a staircase made of Douglas fir.
Center Parcs
Family Fun
Whether you prefer a comfy houseboat or a
chalet in the woods, Center Parcs launched
Le Domaine du Bois aux Daims in June 2015
with something for every type of nature lover.
The Domaine is a relaxing getaway in the
Vienne department with all of the wellbeing
facilities for adults as well as exciting
activities for the kids. Think water slides, zip
lines, archery, spa amenities and more. Don’t
forget that Futuroscope is nearby as well as
a plethora of heritage sites to discover if you
choose to spend an afternoon on a bike.
Room with a (Waterfall) View
For something just as plush but with some
serious history, the Cascade de Saintonge is a
family-owned bed and breakfast overlooking
a sublime waterfall. The Bernard family has
owned this sanctuary for over two centuries.
On warm summer days, Sylvie and Philippe
suggest you cool off in the “Jacuzzi charentais,”
what the locals have affectionately dubbed
their waterfall. The intriguing history of this
place has been passed from generation to
generation through oral tradition. Legend
has it that the logis was built by the monks
of the nearby Abbaye de Bassac in the 17th
century. Indulge your curiosity; the Bernards
will gladly share their stories.
Poitou-Charentes
38
The Good Life
Festival Folie!
Front row seat to local celebrations
Traveling ­to a place for a festival, or perhaps tying one on to your journey, is an
excellent way to gain direct access to the very soul of a place, to experience the
destination like a local would. You find yourself immersed in the sights, sounds,
and flavors in a way you wouldn’t experience otherwise. Poitou-Charentes has
an exciting calendar of year-round events, which gets into full swing in the
summer months. In fact, one of the best places in France to experience Bastille
Day is La Rochelle, when the Francofolies festival delights music lovers on
the Old Port. You’d be hard-pressed to find a more spectacular setting for
fireworks.
The French are a genuine party people—they
just love their festivals. As the summer days
grow longer, and the sky doesn’t grow dim
until well after 10 p.m., les français start
getting giddy about staying outside for
musical entertainment, and a dose of riotous
revelry, bien sûr. It all kicks off with the Fête
de la Musique on the summer solstice (June
21). This nation-wide musical festival features
big-name acts and impromptu concerts on
street corners—even in the tiniest of hamlets.
There’s magic in the air for offbeat festivals
like Le Nombril du Monde, a marvelous ode to
storytelling in the village of Pougne-Hérisson,
the self-proclaimed “navel of the world,”
where “myths are born.” Throughout the
region, sultry temperatures, lingering daylight,
and a merry musical soundtrack make for the
stuff of midsummer night’s dreams. But the
fun isn’t limited to the summer months. Even
in the throes of winter, Angoulême’s witty
world of comic strips lights up the coldest of
Poitou-Charentes
winter-weary hearts. Of all the region’ topnotch festivals, here are a few musts on the
list.
Les Francofolies
Every year in mid July, around France’s Bastille
Day, Francofolies trains the global spotlight
on La Rochelle. Five days, eight stages, and
upwards of 100 concerts—there’s something
for every kind of music lover: popular French
classics, rock, jazz, rap, electro, blues, soul, and
all sorts of contemporary music. It’s a show
that has been around for over 20 years, and
has earned such acclaim that it’s been exported
internationally. With famous radio personality
Jean-Louis Foulquier at the pulpit, this party
hosts artists like Aznavour, Barbara, Ferré,
Véronique Sanson, Bashung, Catherine Lara,
Renaud, Juliette Gréco, and Souchon. These
larger-than-life musicians shake the esplanade
of Saint-Jean d’Acre.
Francofolies always endeavors to give lesserknown artists a chance to show off their stuff.
In fact, luminaries like Bénabar, Manu Chao,
and Linda Lemay first saw their debut on the
Francofolies stage.
Ships Ahoy!
Since its inception, the Grand Pavois has
been granted numerous accolades. After all,
it is Europe’s largest floating boat show with
over 100,000 visitors and 900 exhibitors. Held
annually at the end of September, the Grand
Pavois showcases the most recent innovations
in sailboats, motorboats, and equipment. A
huge crowd of nautical enthusiasts comes to
admire some three kilometers of pontoons.
Here you can survey all the savoir faire related
to the construction, hardware, and practice
of boating. Every year a different country
comes to display, adding an air of exoticism
to the international show. You’ll want to take
All festivals and events on: www.visit-poitou-charentes.com
39
advantage of the ambiance to enjoy fresh
oysters paired with a local white wine on the
harbor, one of the biggest yacht marinas on the
French Atlantic coast.
Comics Take the Stage
Rock Among Ruins
From June to end of August
For over 10 years, Nuits Romanes has
staged spectacular summer soirées with
the region’s Romanesque landmarks as the
backdrop. Nearly 200 free performances
further brighten the warm summer nights
in heritage sites that are opened to the
public for the event. Abbey courtyards,
domed churches and haunting ruins…
Centuries-old stages resonate with tunes of
the musical ensembles, utterly captivating
the audience. There’s something for every
taste. Local and international musicians
perform shows of many different
styles—contemporary, classical, jazz, and
world music. Performances also include
acrobatics, dance, and street arts.
In January, Angoulême celebrates the annual
Festival International de la bande dessinée, the
world’s third largest event of its kind. Some
200,000 authors, artists and lovers of the comic
strip flock to this city every year to watch
the awards ceremony and see the exhibitions
of renowned artists. This is also an industry
show: for those in the field, think to bring your
business cards!
Musical Mélange
In Angoulême, Musiques Métisses explores
the diversity of music that comes from Africa,
the Caribbean, Latin America, and the Indian
Ocean. The show has been running for over 25
years, and also supports musicians coming from
metropolitan France as well as its DOM TOMs,
or overseas territories. Additionally, Musiques
Métisses seeks to highlight artists who have
contributed to the creolization of popular music
originally from France. This festival is the first to
Les Nuits Romanes
https://nuitsromanes.poitou-charentes.fr
have focused on DOM TOM artists as the main
repertoire.
Booze & Blues
In charming Cognac, at the end of June and
first days of July, a 5-day African-American
Blues festival called Blues Passions showcases
stars of international reclaim like Benjamin
Booker, Charlie Winston, and Lenny Kravitz.
Music is happening every which way you turn—
even in the botanical gardens—with scores of
performances in several different venues. The
headliners perform in the Roman amphitheater,
an ambiance that can’t be beat. Blues remains
the main focus of the concerts but recently the
festival has expanded the schedule to explore
other world music. Even if you don’t go to the
festival, you’ll feel the thrill of the atmosphere
while sitting in one of the bistros sipping a
cognac.
Poitou-Charentes
40
©Les films de Tournelles
Behind The Scenes
Alceste à bicyclette (Cycling with Molière)
Behind The Scenes
Everything you didn’t know about Poitou-Charentes
Such a beautiful region is an obvious magnet for tourists, but PoitouCharentes also seduces international industries with its dynamic economy and
excellent infrastructure. From luxury textile manufacturing and woodworking,
to animation and nautical know-how, the region is a strong player in France’s
economy. What’s more: Poitou-Charentes prioritizes environmental excellence
with a focus on renewable energy and sustainability. Did someone say electric
plane? Talk about innovation.
So Scenic for Cinema
While Paris steals the spotlight as a popular
film set for Hollywood production companies,
the region of Poitou-Charentes has quietly
won over a bevy of moviemakers because of its
picture-perfect scenery. The turreted towns and
dreamy landscapes have served as the backdrop
for diverse big-picture films. Back in 1961, the
region’s coastline played the handsome stunt
double for the Normandy landing beaches
when World War II film The Longest Day was
shot in France. Producer Darryl F. Zanuck
scouted the beach of La Conche des Baleines
on Île de Ré as a film set, and the picturesque
village of Rivedoux also played a starring role
in the blockbuster, which featured silver-screen
darlings like John Wayne and Sean Connery.
Fast forward to 1966 when renowned director
Jacques Demy flaunted the historic port town
in Les Demoiselles de Rochefort (The Young Girls
of Rochefort). Catherine Deneuve and reallife sister Françoise Dorléac play a musically
talented duo singing and dancing across the
sun-splashed streets and the focal point of
Place Colbert.
Poitou-Charentes
More recently in 2013, Alceste à bicyclette
(Cycling with Molière) frames Île de Ré as the
destination of choice for a retired film actor
who spends his days cycling past windswept
beaches, vineyards, and mudflats. With such
photogenic landscapes and natural cinematic
allure, the region sets directors’ hearts aflutter.
Accolades for Animation
But Poitou-Charentes isn’t just a passive player
in the film industry; the region is actually
emerging as a creative hub. With 25 studios
and 100 companies in animation, the region
is becoming a hotbed for this art. Many of
these, like 2D3D Animations, have racked up
awards for their expertise and spectacular
hand-drawn animation. It’s only natural that
Angoulême, the “Capital of the Comic Strip,”
is the home base. Ernest & Celestine snagged
the César 2013 (the equivalent of the Academy
Award in France) for Best Animated Film, and
it was also nominated for an Academy Award
in 2014. Loulou, l'incroyable secret (Wolfy, The
Incredible Secret) was awarded the César for
Best Animated Film in 2014, while Minuscule:
La Vallée des fourmis perdues (Minuscule:
Valley of the Lost Ants) nabbed the César 2015
for Best Animated Film. In a coup for Normaal
Animation, the studio was selected to produce a
series of 500 90-second animated shorts based
on Charles Schulz’s Peanuts. In 2015, these
new shorts had been rolled out internationally
to fete the 65th anniversary of the comic strip.
The great and the good of the film world
gather in the region for important festivals
and events like the Francophone Film Festival
in Angoulême, and, in La Rochelle, the
International Film Festival as well as Sunny Side
of the Doc, a major international marketplace
for documentary films. The International
Comics Festival in Angoulême is also of note.
The region is also heralded for its expertise
in the digital industry with over 1870
companies employing nearly 20,000 experts.
These businesses span telecommunications,
IT development, multimedia, graphic arts, and
emerging sectors like Edutainment, e-education
and e-books.
Non-exhaustive list
41
Grand Pavois boat show
Talent For Luxury
Nautical & Aeronautics Industries
Poitou-Charentes is the cradle for luxury brands
that choose the region’s skillful artisans and
manufacturers to produce the stylish threads
for some of the biggest names in haute couture
and prêt-à-porter fashion. The popular appeal
of “Made in France” brands keeps French textile
manufacturers in demand. Poitou-Charentes
is a natural choice because of the region’s
geographical proximity and easy access to
Paris, the world’s fashion capital.
Naturally, the region’s 464 kilometers of
coastline has encouraged an emphasis on the
nautical industry. Sailboats and recreational
boating is a major pastime, as evidenced by
La Rochelle’s Minimes Harbor, which is the
largest yacht marina in France with 4,800
moorings. Boat-building specialists keep the
region’s centuries-old savoir faire alive. The
most striking example is the buzzed-about
Hermione project, the reconstruction of the
wood tall ship that the Marquis de La Fayette
sailed in the 18th century to aid the American
revolutionaries. Here, artisans employed the
same techniques and authentic materials that
were used for the original frigate.
Today there are 30 specialized manufacturers in
Poitou-Charentes with savoir faire covering all
the bases of fashion production: prototyping,
assembling, moulding, cutting and assembling
of finishes. One of the best known is Bocage
Avenir Couture, whose 70 employees produce
the luxury goods for world-renowned fashion
houses including LVMH, PPR, and Richemont,
with labels like Céline, Vuitton, Hermès, and
Chloé. The company has also developed a
long-standing relationship with the Parisbased British designers at Aganovich. Fun fact:
Hermès set up shop in Poitou-Charentes in
2012, opening a workshop focused on leather
crafting.
Today, high-tech companies in the region
innovate with the latest in boat building.
Dufour manufactures top-of-the-line sailboats;
Fountaine-Pajot is a world-renowned enterprise
making catamarans; Poncin manufactures
yachts and pleasure craft; Rhea Marine
customizes boats for fishing and cruises. Many
of these fabulous vessels are on display at the
Grand Pavois boat show, which takes place
annually in La Rochelle in September.
While safeguarding the traditions of the past,
the region also innovates for the future. Think
hydro-generators and solar-powered electric
boats. In fact, La Rochelle is the home base for
CRAIN, the French Research Center for Nautical
Architecture and Industry.
Witness similar innovation in the Aeronautics
and Defense industry through myriad stateof-the-art companies based here. EADS
Subsidiary takes on large aerostructure projects
for AIRBUS and ATR, and also designs and
manufactures First and Business class seats for
leading airlines. Thalès is a global leader in the
market of electronic equipment for the aviation
industry. Overall, the region’s aerospace
industry represents nearly 9,000 direct and
indirect jobs.
Electric plane - Prototype
Poitou-Charentes
42
A
How to get to
Poitou-Charentes
By boat
Brittany Ferries, Condor Ferries, Norfolkline, P&O-Ferries, Seafrance, LD lines and Irish
Ferries have regular links with French Channel ports. All the ports are within half a day
drive from Poitou-Charentes.
By road
From North of France (Dunkirk, Boulogne, Calais), from Normandy, Brittany and Paris,
main roads lead to our region. From farthest north points, follow Bordeaux direction and
then you will find Poitiers or La Rochelle indications. A10 motorway and Nationale10
road link Poitiers to Bordeaux and A837 and Nationale 137 road link La Rochelle to
Saintes via Rochefort.
B
C
D
Key to symbols
Tourist office
Boat trips
Art town or country
Golf
Small town with character
Tourist train
Unesco World Heritage
High Speed train
Most beautiful French village
Regional train station
Castle open to the public
Airport
Museum
Roads to Santiago de Compostela
Fortification
Cycle track
Lighthouse
C
P
Motorway
37
Spa resort
Dual carriageway, main road
Thalassotherapy
Main road
Beach
Railway line
10 km
La
By train
For travel arrangements, timetables, prices and bookings:
visit www.raileurope.co.uk.
Rail Europe Ltd is the official UK distributor for SNCF – French Railways.
- From London-St Pancras via Lille-Europe: connections with Eurostar services: there
are daily services to Poitiers (3 hours 30 minutes) and Angoulême (4 hours 15 minutes).
- From Paris - Gare Montparnasse: the TGV Atlantique service runs to the highspeed train station at the Futuroscope (1 hour 30) and the stations in Poitiers (1 hour
50 minutes), Angoulême (2 hours and 30 minutes), Niort (2 hours 30 minutes) and La
Rochelle (3 hours).
- From Bordeaux there are services to Angoulême (52 minutes) and Poitiers (1 hour
34 minutes).
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ée
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By air
- Regular seasonal flights to and from La Rochelle – Ile de Ré
Flights and timetables on www.larochelle.aeroport.fr, Tel. + 33 (0) 5 46 42 30 26
From UK and Ireland: London Stansted and London Gatwick, Birmingham, East
Midlands, Manchester, Southampton, Bristol, Dublin, Cork.
From Portugal: Porto
From Belgium: Bruxelles-Charleroi
From Switzerland: Geneva
- Regular/seasonal flights to and from Poitiers-Futuroscope
Flights and timetables on www.poitiers.aeroport.fr/, Tel. + 33 (0) 5 49 30 04 40
From UK and Ireland: London Stansted and Edinburgh
From France: Lyon-Poitiers-La Rochelle
Réserve naturelle
de la Baie de l'Aiguillon
Phare des Baleines
St-Clément
des-Baleines
Les Portes-en-Ré
Réserve naturelle
Lilleau des Niges
Loix
St-Martin-de-Ré
Ars-en-Ré
La Flotte
Le Bois-Plage-en-Ré
Ste-Marie
de-Ré Rivedoux
Plage
Aigrefe
Châtelaillon-Plage
Phare de Chassiron
Réserve naturelle
du Marais d'Yves
Fouras
Fort Boyard
Boyardville
You can also fly to Paris and then take a TGV from the Charles-de-Gaulle Airport
or Paris-Montparnasse train stations to Poitiers and other cities in the region.
Or fly to Nantes and Bordeaux, and rent a car or take the train to Poitiers,
Angoulême or La Rochelle.
Le Château
d'Oléron
s
la tua Moulin des loges
Se ire
ud de Tour de Broue
re
St-Sornin
La Tremblade
Presqu’île
d’Arvert
La Palmyre
Parc de l'Es
00:55 01:05 01:01 00:46 00:00 01:38 01:56 02:25 01:54 01:58 01:27 01:27 02:26
La Rochelle
01:41 01:50 00:57 00:58 01:38 00:00 00:19 01:03 00:37 01:20 01:01 01:30 02:11
Ile de Ré
01:59 02:08 01:15 01:16 01:56 00:19 00:00 01:23 00:53 01:36 01:16 01:46 02:27
Ile d’Oléron
02:19 02:29 01:41 01:42 02:25 01:03 01:29 00:00 00:35 00:48 00:59 01:25 02:06
Rochefort
01:49 01:58 01:10 01:11 01:54 00:37 00:53 00:35 00:00 00:47 00:35 01:05 01:46
Royan
02:02 02:11 01:36 01:29 01:58 01:20 01:36 00:48 00:47 00:00 00:42 01:04 01:44
Saintes
01:31 01:40 01:04 00:58 01:27 01:01 01:16 00:59 00:45 00:42 00:00 00:35 01:16
Cognac
02:05 02:10 01:39 01:34 02:01 01:30 01:46 01:25 01:05 01:04 00:35 00:00 00:46
Angoulême
01:39 01:44 02:00 01:50 02:26 02:11 02:27 02:06 01:46 01:44 01:16 00:46 00:00
Mesch
Grott
®
Parthenay
La Vélodyssée
00:57 01:07 00:24 00:00 00:46 00:58 01:16 01:42 01:11 01:29 00:58 01:34 01:50
Sa
St-Georges
de-Didonn
Phare de Cordouan
Marais Poitevin 01:09 01:19 00:00 00:24 01:01 00:57 01:15 01:41 01:10 01:36 01:04 01:39 02:00
Niort
Mornacs.-Seudre
Saujo
Zoo
00:00 00:28 01:09 00:57 00:55 01:41 01:59 02:19 01:49 02:02 01:31 02:05 01:39
sé Caba
e ®
Réserve naturelle
des Marais de
Moëze
Les Mathes
00:28 00:00 01:19 01:07 01:05 01:50 02:08 02:29 01:58 02:11 01:40 02:10 01:44
Breui
ys
Grand-Village Fort Louvois
Brouage
Plage Port des Salines Bourcefranc
le-Chapus
St-Trojan
les-Bains
Marennes
Cité de l'Huître
Ronce-les-Bains
St-Just-Luzac
E
Phare de la Coubre
Futuroscope
lod
Port-des
Barques
Marais aux oiseaux
Journey time in hours between the main cities of Poitou-Charentes
Poitiers
Vé
Passe aux boeufs
St-Pierre
OCÉAN
ATLANTIQUE
La
Fort
Lupin
www.viamichelin.fr/web/Itineraires, itinéraires conseillés par Michelin
Climate
The Poitou-Charentes coastline enjoys an exceptional number of hours of sunshine,
setting it on a par with the Mediterranean coast of France. Temperatures are always
pleasant and the sea air is clear and fresh. After a mild winter which enables mimosa
to flower on the coast in January, spring comes early. Summer remains the peak tourist
season but the late summer and early autumn are ideal periods for relaxing holidays
and sightseeing tours.
Poitou-Charentes
GIR
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
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La L
oire
J
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La
V
GR 36
Ste-Maure-deTouraine
CENTER PARCS
TOURS/PARIS
Les-Trois-Moutiers
Loudun
Téléskinautique
Airvault
Ind
re
BARCELONA
MADRID
La Roche-Posay
GR 48
Angles-s.l’Anglin
Archigny
Forêt de Moulière Bonneuil-Matours Ferme-acadienne
FUTUROSCOPE
Vouillé
Soutiers
Parc Floral
Beaulieu-sous
Parthenay
use
Vasles
LE BLANC
Anglin
Mouton-Village
Lavausseau
St-Benoît
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La Cité des Tanneurs
St-Savin
Chauvigny
Les Géants du ciel
Vélo rail
Tercé
Sanxay
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Abbaye
St-Julien-l'Ars
Vé
lo
Fra
Site gallo-romain
La
Curzay-sur-Vonne
St-Maixent-l’École
CoudraySalbart
Cre
Touffou
Bonnes
La Guyonnière
St-Marc-la
Lande
NANTES
INDRE
BERRY
Réserve naturelle
du Pinail
Le Nombril du Monde
A83 E03
Vouneuil-s.Vienne
St-Cyr
Pougne-Hérisson
Secondigny
Pleumartin
Moussais-la-Bataille
Thénezay
Thénezay
Pescalis
PARC NATUREL RÉGIONAL
DU MARAIS POITEVIN
Abbaye
Aslonnes
Jardins
Lusignan
Rouillé
La MotheSt-Héray
L’Île aux Serpents
Civaux
La Trimouille
Planète des crocodiles
DéfiPlanet'
Vernon
Dienné
Lussac-les-Châteaux
Bougon
Tumulus
Cité de l'Écrit
Saulgé
Magné
Parc Floral de la Belle
Exoudun
Coulon
Taugon
Pôle nature du Marais poitevin
Frontenay-RohanRohan
St-Hilaire-la-Palud
Parc ornithologique
Queaux
Aire
Poitou-Charentes
La Vallée des Singes
Celles-s.-Belle
Maison des Fromages
de Chèvre
Brux
Melle
Beauvoir-sur-Niort
L'Isle-Jourdain
Linazay
Champniers
Le Vigeant
Le Vieux Cormenier
Circuit automobile
du Val de Vienne
Zoodyssée
Villiers-en-Bois
euille-d'Aunis
Brioux-sur-Boutonne
Civray
SauzéVaussais
Forêt de Chizé
Surgères
CPA Lathus
Romagne
Prahecq
Mauzé-sur-le Mignon
AvaillesLimouzine
Charroux
BELLAC
Dampierres.-Boutonne
Asinerie nationale du
Baudet du Poitou
il-Magné
HAUTE-VIENNE
LIMOUSIN
St-Germainde-Confolens
Ruffec
Villefagnan
Aulnay
La Vergne
Tonnay-Boutonne
MILANO
I N D R E - E T - LO I R E
TOURAINE
St-Loup-Lamairé
Moncoutant
Esse
ChampagneMouton
Saint-Fraigne
Vélo rail
Tonnay-Charente
Brigueuil
Archingeay
Trizay
St-Savinien
Abbaye
St-Porchaire
Crazannes
Mansle
Le Douhet
La Roche-Courbon
Lac de Cadeuil
Macqueville
Burie
Paléosite
Le Cep Enchanté
Théâtre gallo-romain
Les Bouchauds
Rouillac
LIMOGES
Chassenon
(Thermes) Cassinomagus
Mémorial
Abbaye
MontignacCharente
St-Cybardeaux
St-Junien
Chabanais
Chasseneuilsur-Bonnieure
St-Amantde-Boixe
Abbaye de
Fontdouce
St-Césaire
Roumazières
Loubert
Aigre
St-Hilaire
de-Villefranche
ne
Vien
n
Ethni'cité
Coussay
St Mesmin
ane de Moins
LIMOGES
BORDEAUX
Dangé
St-Romain
Forêt de Scévolles
Moncontour
St-Jouin-de
Marnes
Forêt de
Benon
PoitouCharentes
St-Rémy-sur
Creuse
9
Courçon
STUTTGART
NANTES
Les Ormes
Oiron
24
VENDÉE
R
PARIS
GR 655
Thouars
Labyrintruche
Q
AMSTERDAM
Domaine du Bois aux Daims
Argenton-les-Vallées
St-Andrés.-Sèvre
P
BRUSSELS
Massais
N
O
LONDON
Abbaye
Parc de la Vallée
Puy-du-Fou
N
CHINON
Vienne
Fontevraud
Berrie
Nueil-les
Aubiers
M
Montreuil
Bellay
MA I N E - E T - LO I R E
ANJOU
CHOLET
L
SAUMUR
élo
Fra
nce
tt
Doué-la-Fontaine
K
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e®
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Montembœuf
ablonceaux
Abbaye
La Rochefoucauld
on
St-Brice Abbaye
Jarnac
Segonzac
sne
stuaire
hers-sur-Gironde
Pons
Gémozac
tes de Régulus
Chazelles
Grottes du
Quéroy
Eymouthiers
Marthon
Document réalisé par la Région Poitou-Charentes
Mise en page, pré-presse Région Poitou-Charentes, cartographie IGS-CP Angoulême
Châteauneuf-s.Charente
Château
des Enigmes
Talmont-sur-Gironde
Ruelle-sur-Touvre
Bassac
Abbaye
St-Simon
Can
Maison de la Vigne
et du vin
Champagne-Vigny
Villebois-Lavalette
BarbezieuxSt-Hilaire
St-Dizandu-Gua
es 2
al d
Photos © Région Poitou-Charentes © Pascal Baudry, Jacques Villégier, Francis Leroy,
Mathieu Anglada, Stéphane Charbeau, Carine Lutt, Françoise Roch, Florian Delage,
Sophie Cousin, Maxime Thibaudeau - DR Prestataires touristiques.
© Tous droits réservés
Couverture : La Rochelle/P. Baudry
Page 2-13 ©Association Hermione - La Fayette/L. Bailliard
Page 18 ©Ville de Niort/R. Goudeau
Page 19 ©Médiathèque du Parc naturel régional du
Marais poitevin
Page 20 ©Polychromies/Création Skertzó
Page 30-31 ©Laurige - Charentaises Tcha - Safraniers
du Poitou-Charentes
Page 35 ©Zoo de La Palmyre/F. Perroux - Vallée des
Singes - Domaine de Dienné
Page 37 ©Parc de la Belle - Groupe Pierre & Vacances
Center Parcs
Page 39 © Xavier Léoty
Page 41 ©Aero Composites Saintonge Archiac
Site gallo-romain du Fâ
BlanzacPorcheresse
mers
à vé
lo
MontmoreauSt-Cybard
Vitrezay
Pôle Nature
Brossac
Montendre
Aubeterre-s.-Dronne
Chalais
38
Soucieux de la préservation de l’environnement, la Région Poitou-Charentes sélectionne
des fournisseurs engagés dans une démarche environnementale.
Ce document est imprimé dans le respect des normes environnementales sur du papier
certifié PEFC avec des encres végétales par un imprimeur labellisé Imprim’Vert et certifié
PEFC : Imprimerie Rochelaise - ZA de Villeneuve les Salines
Rue du Pont des Salines - 17000 La Rochelle
Printed in France - Décembre 2015.
Église monolithe
Neuvicq
Maison de la Forêt
PÉRIGUEUX
BORDEAUX
RONDE
F
DORDOGNE
PERIGORD
Blaye
G
H
I
J
K
L
M
N
O
P
Q
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14
Poitiers
Make your dreams come true
www.visit-poitou-charentes.com
Vide o
Jo
i
PoitouCharentesAtlanticCoastCognacCountry
POITOU-CHARENTES TOURISME
Maison de la Région
15 rue de l'Ancienne Comédie
CS 70575 - F-86021 Poitiers Cedex
Tel. +33 (0)5 49 55 77 41
Email: tourisme@cr-poitou-charentes.fr
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