Geological feature of the Cognac region

Transcription

Geological feature of the Cognac region
AN INTERACTIVE GUIDE
Informational text
XO LEVEL „
Expert
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HISTORY OF COGNAC XO 01
Geological feature of the Cognac
region
A rich geological history
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Over millions of years the Cognac region has experienced a rich geological
history comprising tectonic movements (faults, ground uplifts), successive
periods of the ocean covering the land and receding and a succession of
climates from tropical to glacial.
A subsoil rich in limestone, from successive marine
sedimentation
During the long periods when the area was under water, primarily in the
Mesozoic Era, deposits left from marine organisms formed the current
limestone subsoil of the region.
Even today you can still find countless marine fossils in Cognac vineyards.
ALSO OF INTEREST
●
The official site of the Système d’Information Régionale de PoitouCharentes: www.sir-poitou-charentes.org (in French only)
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A rich geological
history
A subsoil rich in
limestone, from
successive marine
sedimentation
HISTORY OF COGNAC XO 02
Vineyards in the region
Vestiges of wine production in the Cognac region
dating back to the 1st century AD
Until the end of the 1990s, it was believed that winegrowing was
established in the Cognac region in the 3rd century AD.
This theory was based on ancient texts indicating that in 92 CE, under the reign of
Domitian, an imperial edict had forbidden winegrowing in Gaul and had only been revoked
in 280 by Emperor Probus.
However, archeological findings seem to prove the contrary. Today, scholars believe that
this edict was never actually promulgated. (Source: GRIS).
Archeological research in the Cognac region has provided proof that the
first winegrowing plantations appeared at the end of the 1st century AD (In
particular, around Barbezieux and Saintes).
Furthermore, excavations have shown that the region boasted quite a
number of agricultural buildings, in particular, ones related to
winegrowing, which confirms wine production in the region as far back as
the early Roman Empire.
Likewise in Cognac, vestiges of the 2nd and 3rd centuries have been
brought to light: a large area for treading the grapes, numerous basins for
receiving the harvest and extensive storage buildings.
The particularity of these buildings was that the wine was stored in barrels
there, not in earthenware jars as in Southern France. Indeed, it is said that
the Gauls invented barrel making. To this day, the craft remains a lively
tradition in the Cognac region (source Christian Vernou).
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Vestiges of wine
production in the
Cognac region
dating back to the
1st century AD
HISTORY OF COGNAC XO 03
The Middle Ages
The Charente basin: Trade-oriented from the start
The vineyards of Poitou produced wines that were appreciated in countries
bordering the North Sea. They were transported on on Dutch ships, which
had come seeking the salt from the coast.
As early as the Middle Ages, the Charente River gave birth to a mentality
favouring international trade.
Indeed, this navigable river was nicknamed the “walking Path” by the
Romans, for it provided coastal ships easy access to the heart of the PoitouCharentes.
From this period on, vineyards spread progressively deeper into the
country, to the Saintonge and Angoumois regions.
The city of Cognac was already distinguishing itself for its wine trade, in
addition to its salt storage activities dating back to the 11th century.
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The Charente
basin: Tradeoriented from the
start
HISTORY OF COGNAC XO 04
From the 14th to the 16th century
Northern European countries buy the region’s famous
wines
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During the Renaissance, commerce experienced a significant boom.
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People began to travel longer distances and more frequently.
The Dutch, very active traders who were called upon by Henri IV to help
drain the Marais Poitevin (The marshlands of the Poitou region), were fond
of the region’s goods: salt, Angoulême paper and Cognac wines.
Indeed, the Dutch vessels would come to Cognac and the ports of the
Charente in search of the famous wines from the “Champagne” and the
“Borderies”.
In the 16th century, the Dutch decide to distill the
region’s wines to better preserve them
Dutch knowledge of the art of distillation encouraged them to distill the
wines upon arrival in Holland. Indeed, the region’s low-alcohol wines
suffered from the long voyage overseas and distillation allowed preserving
them.
The result was a success. They named it “brandwijn”— burnt wine — which
would become “brandy”, a spirit made from wine. They drank it mixed with
water.
Later, the Dutch decided it was more economical to have the wine distilled
where it was produced, reducing the volume to transport. It was then that
they installed the first distilleries in the region.
They required the stills be made out of copper from Amsterdam. This was one of the first
technology transfers in history.
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Northern European
countries buy the
region’s famous wines
href="#point_2">In
the 16th century, the
Dutch decide to distill
the region’s wines to
better preserve them
HISTORY OF COGNAC XO 05
17th century
Double distillation makes its appearance
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At the beginning of the 17th century, double distillation makes its
appearance in the region, which will enable the product to travel as a stable
spirit, much more concentrated than the “brandwijn.”
The first stills, installed in the Charente by the Dutch, would be
progressively modified; the French gradually mastered and improved the
technique.
Until the beginning of the 17th century, distillation consisted of only one heating, which
obtained the ”brouillis,” a liquid drunk mixed with aromatic herbs.
Legend has it that double distillation was invented by the Chevalier de la Croix Maron,
Lord of Segonzac, a pious man who dreamt that Satan was trying to damn his soul. In his
dream, he saw himself in the Devil’s cauldron, but his faith was so deeply anchored in his
soul that it resisted the first “cooking”. To achieve his ends, the Devil was forced to “cook”
it again. When he woke up, the Chevalier had the idea of extracting the “soul” of eau-devie with a second distillation.
This is how the legend on the origin of the discovery of double distillation for Cognac eauxde-vie was perpetuated in the region.
Delays in loading the boats, resulted in the discovery that the spirit
improved with age in oak casks made from wood from the neighbouring
Limousin forest and that it could be drunk straight. The first Cognac house
was established in 1643: Augier.
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Double distillation
makes its
appearance
HISTORY OF COGNAC XO 06
18th century
Diderot lauds Cognac
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Diderot, the great Enlightenment philosopher, mentions Cognac in his
famous Encyclopedia as “renowned for its brandies”.
The first Cognac companies
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Starting at the end of the 17th century and more markedly during the next
century, the market began to take shape and Cognac companies were
created in the main cities of the region. These merchants, mostly from the
British Isles, collected eaux-de-vie from local growers and sent them off to
the countries of Northern Europe. (Martell 1715, Rémy Martin 1724, Delamain
1759, Hennessy 1765, Hine 1791, Otard 1795...).
Establishment of regular trade with Northern Europe
Regular trade quickly developed with European buyers and new relations
developed with two new markets: America and the Far East.
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Diderot lauds
Cognac
The first Cognac
companies
Establishment of
regular trade with
Northern Europe
HISTORY OF COGNAC XO 07
19th century
Birth of numerous Cognac houses
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In the 19th century, France witnessed seven political regimes and two
revolutions, leaving the country with a certain sense of instability.
Periods of economic liberalism alternated with periods of protectionism.
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It was during this century that many of the Cognac houses were established
(Bisquit 1819, Courvoisier 1843, Royer 1853, Meukow 1862, Camus et Hardy 1863…)
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Birth of numerous
Cognac houses
Booming growth
for Cognac under
Napoleon III
Beginning of
shipping in bottles
At the time, France was drawing its resources from its colonial conquests, which pushed back
the first industrial revolution in France until after Napoleon’s abdication.
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During the 19th century, Cognac shipping experienced a real burst in growth.
(Going from a little more than 36,000 hl In volume in 1799 to more than 478,000 hl in 1879).
The growth was erratic and while Cognac shipments took a plunge after the
French Revolution, they reached new heights in 1807.
On the other hand, Napoleon’s continental blockade went hand-in-hand with
the collapse of Cognac sales as of 1808.
Booming growth for Cognac under Napoleon III
It would not be until 1860, with the signing of a free trade agreement between
England and France, driven by Napoleon III, that Cognac sales would take off.
By 1879 they had tripled, from less than 150,000 hl in 1860.
Beginning of shipping in bottles
In the middle of the 19th century, Cognac houses began to ship the spirit in
bottles rather than casks, in order to promote their “brand”.
This new form of trade in turn gave birth to related industries: glassmaking
(indeed, in 1885 Claude Boucher began working on mechanizing bottle manufacturing
procedures at the St Martin glass factory in Cognac),
case, cork-making and printing.
1877: 282,667 ha of vineyards
In 1877, the vineyards covered 282,667 hectares (an area larger than
Luxembourg).
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1877 : 282 667 ha
de vignoble
HISTORY OF COGNAC XO 08
End of the 19th century: The
phylloxera crisis
End of the 19th century, phylloxera destroys the
majority of the vineyards
Around 1875 phylloxera appears in the Cognac region. Phylloxera is an
insect of the hemiptera family and one of its species, Phylloxera Vastatrix,
attacks grapevines and sucks the sap from their roots.
It would destroy the greater part of the vineyard
(around 1895 there would be no more than 42,581 hectares left under vine, compared
with the 280,000 ha in 1877).
Birth of the first interprofessional initiative in Cognac:
The Viticulture Committee in 1888
This tragedy gave birth to the Viticulture Committee in 1888, which would
then become the Station Viticole in 1892.
In 1887, a French delegation led by Pierre Viala, Professor at the
Montpellier School of Agriculture, was sent to the United States in search
of phylloxera-resistant grapevines.
The delegation’s aim was to bring back seedlings on which to graft French
varieties, to benefit from the American grapevines’ resistance to phylloxera,
while retaining the quality produced by French varieties.
The first attempts were catastrophic. The first rootstocks brought over could not
withstand the chalky soil of the region. New rootstocks resistant to chlorosis had to be
found.
It took many years of hard work and patience for the economy of the region
to recover.
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●
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End of the 19th
century, phylloxera
destroys the majority
of the vineyards
Birth of the first
interprofessional
initiative in Cognac:
The Viticulture
Committee in 1888
HISTORY OF COGNAC XO 09
20th century
Replanting of the vineyards with American rootstocks
●
Nietzsche said: “What doesn’t kill me, makes me stronger”.
The vineyards were replanted with American rootstocks immune to phylloxera.
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Traditional varieties(Colombard, Folle Blanche, etc.) were weakened by the
grafting process and were gradually replaced by the more resistant Ugni
Blanc, now used for more than 98% of Cognac production.
Establishment of Cognac legislation to preserve
longstanding local use
Legislation to preserve longstanding local use is put in place :
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1st May, 1909: Geographic production zone is delimited.
As of 1936, Cognac is recognised as an “Appellation d'Origine
Contrôlée” (Controlled Appellation of Origin).
In 1938, regional Appellations (crus) are delimited.
1946: Birth of the Bureau National Interprofessionnel
du Cognac
During World War II, the “Wine and Eaux-de-Vie Distribution Bureau” is
created to protect Cognac stocks.
With the liberation of France in 1946, this body was replaced by the Bureau
National Interprofessionnel du Cognac, which joined together with the
Station Viticole in 1948.
All stages in Cognac production are henceforth subject to regulations aimed
at establishing production rules and protecting this product of everincreasing fame.
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●
Replanting of the
vineyards with
American rootstocks
Establishment of
Cognac legislation to
preserve longstanding
local use
1946: Birth of the
Bureau National
Interprofessionnel du
Cognac
HISTORY OF COGNAC XO 10
HISTORY OF COGNAC VSOP 04
HISTORY OF COGNAC VS 02
21st century
Cognac is an international luxury product. More than
90% is exported
●
Historically an export product, 90% of Cognac is now shipped to foreign
countries (96% in 2008).
With a presence on every continent, Cognac is shipped
to nearly 160 countries
Today, Cognac is shipped to nearly 160 countries.
From the Far East to the Americas by way of Europe, Cognac is
synonymous with exceptional quality; it is a symbol of France and its art de
vivre.
ALSO OF INTEREST
●
Cognac markets on the BNIC website: www.cognac.fr
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●
Cognac is an
international
luxury product.
More than 90% is
exported
With a presence
on every
continent, Cognac
is shipped to
nearly 160
countries
AOC COGNAC XO 01
AOC COGNAC VSOP 01
AOC COGNAC VS 01
The Cognac Appellation d’Origine
Contrôlée
The conditions of the Cognac Appellation will be developed in the following chapters. At
●
this point in the presentation, we recommend that you only discuss the main points that
appear on the screen. A full description detailing the rules of the Appellation is given as an
appendix.This will help you add to your presentation by referring to the official texts as
the chapters progress.
The Cognac Appellation is strictly regulated to follow
longstanding local use
A chain is only as strong as its weakest link. Every stage plays a
determining role in the quality of the Cognac.
The Cognac AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée, meaning “Controlled
Appellation of Origin”) is strictly regulated to follow longstanding local use.
Three main, national, legal texts are at the origin of
the AOC Cognac: 1st May 1909, 15th May 1936, 13th
January 1938
The specifications for the AOC Cognac is sanctioned by a decree.
They define:
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the name of the Appellation;
the description of the AOC Cognac;
the definiton of the geographical area;
the description of production methods;
the origins;
mandatory mentions.
It specifically brings together the provisions defined in the three main,
national, legal texts that relate to Cognac:
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●
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The Decree of 1st May, 1909 delimits the Cognac production area;
The Decree of 15th May, 1936 modified defines the following Appellations:
“Cognac”, “Eau-de-vie de Cognac” and “Eau-de-vie des Charentes”;
The Decree of 13th January, 1938 defines the production areas within the
Delimited Region for each of the Regional Appellations.
NOTA BENE :
Only the official decree confirming the specifications for the AOC Cognac
can be considered valid. These are available on our web site, www.cognac.fr.
AOC COGNAC XO 01, VSOP 01, VS 01 page 1/2
●
The Cognac
Appellation is
strictly regulated
to follow
longstanding local
use
Three main,
national, legal
texts are at the
origin of the AOC
Cognac:
- 1st May 1909
- 5th May 1936
- 13th January
1938
OTHER OFFICIAL TEXTS
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Modified Order of 27th July 2003 relative to the application of article 302G
of the general tax code concerning the ageing of Cognac eaux-de vie;
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EC Regulation 110/2008 of 15th January 2008 concerning the definition,
designation, presentation, labelling and protection of geographical place of
spirits distilled from wine.
ALSO OF INTEREST
●
●
●
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Details of the appellation in the appendix
Specifications for the Cognac appellation in the media library
The “official texts” section in the media library
The “Understanding a Cognac label” section
AOC COGNAC XO 01, VSOP 01, VS 01 page 2/2
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THE VINEYARDS XO 01
THE VINEYARDS VSOP 01
THE VINEYARDS VS 01
The Delimited Region
Approximately 75,000 ha of grapevines for Cognac
production
The vineyards dedicated to Cognac production cover approximately
75,000 ha. The production area extends across four French departments:
Charente-Maritime, a large part of the Charente and several villages in the
Dordogne and the Deux-Sèvres.
The total surface area of the Delimited Region is in excess of a million hectares; the
agricultural surface area is in the order of 700,000 ha and the total vineyard area covers
about 79,000 ha, 95% of which is used in Cognac production (about 75,000 ha ).
The rest is used for making red or white table wine, sparkling wine and grape juice.
The region is divided into 6 crus
In the mid-19th century, Henri Coquand (1811-1881), a professor of
geology, studied the region’s geology and, working with a taster, developed
and confirmed a soil classification based on the quality of eau-de-vie that
each soil could produce.
Their work led to the delimitation of different crus, or growing districts,
around 1860. This would serve as a basis for the 1938 Decree, delimiting
the crus we know today (the regional Appellations).
ALSO OF INTEREST
●
Details of the appellation in the appendix
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Approximately
75,000 ha of
grapevines for
Cognac production
The region is
divided into 6 crus
THE VINEYARDS XO 02
THE VINEYARDS VSOP 02
The crus
Lead the demonstration
Click in the box “Départements”
The Appellation area covers all of the Charente-Maritime, a large
part of Charente and a small number of villages in Dordogne and
the Deux-Sèvres.
unclick “Départements” and check the box “Rivers”
Rivers helped delimit the crus. You can see, for example, the
natural delimitation of Grande Champagne, which is located
between the Charente River and its tributary the Né.
click Grande Champagne
Grande Champagne, with more than 13,200 ha under vine to
produce white wines that go into Cognac, yields exceptionally
fine, light eaux-de-vie with a predominantly floral bouquet, that
require long ageing in oak casks to achieve full maturity.
Eaux-de-vie that come exclusively from this cru may carry the Appellation
Contrôlée “Cognac Grande Champagne” or “Cognac Grande Fine
Champagne”.
click Petite Champagne
Petite Champagne is planted with more than 15,200 ha of vines
to produce white wines that go into Cognac. These Petite
Champagne eaux-de-vie are very similar to those of Grande
Champagne, but without their exceptional finesse.
Eaux-de-vie that come exclusively from this cru may carry the Appellation
Contrôlée “Cognac Petite Champagne” or “Cognac Petite Fine Champagne”.
NOTE
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The word Champagne:
In Old French, “Champaigne” which comes from the Latin “campania”,
meaning country or open field (as opposed to wooded areas).
,
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The Fine Champagne Appellation
Fine Champagne is not a cru, but rather a blend of wine spirits that come
from the complementary geographical denominations “Grande
Champagne” and “Petite Champagne”, with at least 50% from “Grande
Champagne”
THE VINEYARDS XO 02, VSOP 02 page 1/2
click Borderies (You can either uncheck the previous
crus or leave them open)
The Borderies
This is the smallest of the six crus, with 4,000 ha of vines
devoted to Cognac. The Borderies produce fine, round eaux-devie that are smooth and scented with an aroma of violets. They
have the reputation of reaching optimum quality after a shorter
maturation period than Petite and Grande Champagne eaux-devie.
Eaux-de-vie that come exclusively from this cru may carry the Appellation
Contrôlée “Cognac Borderies”.
click Fins Bois
The Fins Bois surround the three previous crus and are planted
with 31,200 ha of vines for Cognac. They produce round, supple
eaux-de-vie that age fairly quickly, with an aroma reminiscent of
freshly pressed grapes.
Eaux-de-vie that come exclusively from this cru may carry the Appellation
Contrôlée “Cognac Fins Bois”.
click Bons Bois
The Bons Bois represent 9,300 ha of vines for Cognac white
wines. The Bons Bois produce eaux-de-vie that age quickly.
Eaux-de-vie that come exclusively from this cru may carry the Appellation
Contrôlée “Cognac Bons Bois”.
click Bois Ordinaires
The Bois à Terroir or Bois Ordinaires
This cru presents less than 1,100 ha (2,718) of vines for
producing Cognac white wines. The eaux-de-vie it yields have
similar characteristics to those of the Bons Bois, with more rustic
terroir character.
THE VINEYARDS XO 02, VSOP 02 page 2/2
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THE VINEYARDS XO 03
Vine cultivation rate
Vineyards concentrated around the city of Cognac
The area surrounding the city of Cognac is where the greatest
concentration of vines is found.
There is said to be a high rate of vine cultivation (as a percentage of the
total agricultural area) in the Grande Champagne, Petite Champagne and
Borderies crus, as well as on the islands of Ré and Oléron.
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●
Vineyards
concentrated
around the city of
Cognac
THE VINEYARDS XO 04
Breakdown of Cognac production by
cru
Comment on the visual
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Grande Champagne (about 18%) + Petite Champagne (about 21%) +
Borderies (6%) = about 45% of Cognac production
Fins Bois = about 42%
Bons Bois = about 12%
Bois Ordinaires = about 1%
Source: BNIC. December 2008
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THE VINEYARDS XO 05
The natural setting: Climate
A privileged geographic location
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The Cognac Delimited Region is located in the north of the Aquitaine basin,
along the Atlantic Ocean.
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It reaches west to the Gironde estuary and the islands of Ré and Oléron and
east to Angoulême and the foothills of the Massif Central.
The countryside is made up of plains and low, rolling hills.
The Charente River crosses the region, with smaller rivers running into it:
the Né, the Antenne and the Seugne.
An even, temperate oceanic climate
The oceanic climate is temperate and fairly even across the area, except
along the coast.
Due to proximity to the ocean, rain can fall at any time of the year
(although it tends to be heavier during winter).
Consequently, drought is rare and the vines have a consistent source of
water.
The average annual temperature is about 13°C (55°F), with relatively mild
winters.
Temperatures are high enough to ensure grapes reach full maturity, but not
so hot as to burn them.
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A privileged
geographic
location
An even,
temperate
oceanic climate
THE VINEYARDS XO 06
The natural setting: Soil types
Various soil types, but mostly argilo-calcareous
Five major soil types are found in Cognac, but the most widespread is
argilo-calcareous (composed of clay and limestone).
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Various soil types,
but mostly argilocalcareous
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The Champagnes
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The Groies
Comment on photos.
The Champagnes
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These are fairly shallow soils of clay and limestone on top of soft chalk from
the Cretaceous period. From the surface down, the limestone content is
very high.
Montmorillonite clay provides these fertile soils with good structure and
water reserves.
Despite their shallow depth, they do not suffer from lack of water, as the
sub-soil acts as a giant sponge through which water may slowly rise as the
summer dryness increases.
The word “champagne”, in Old French, “champaigne”—which comes from the Latin
“campania”—means country or open field (as opposed to wooded areas).
The Groies
A large part of the Fins Bois appellation is covered with shallow soils of clay
and limestone called “groies” that are similar to those of the Champagne
crus, except for their red colour and hard stones from the Jurassic period.
Clay in the “Pays bas” district
In a low-lying area north of Cognac called the “Pays bas”, the soils are very
rich in clay (up to 60% clay).
As the insect is not fond of water, the heavy, humid soils of the “Pays bas”
saved a small portion of Cognac’s vineyards during the phylloxera crisis in
1875.
THE VINEYARDS XO 13 page 1/2
Clay in the “Pays
bas” district
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Clay and flint
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Sand
Clay and flint
Soils to the northwest of Cognac are composed mostly of clay and flint
stones, resulting from the decarbonatation of limestone. A large portion of
the vineyards in Charente-Maritime are composed of loamy soil called
“doucins”.
Sand
Sandy soils can be found in coastal areas, in certain valleys and in the
entire southern portion of the vineyards. This sand was brought down from
the Massif Central mountain range by erosion. In these areas, vineyards are
dispersed among other crops, grazing fields and pine and chestnut forests.
THE VINEYARDS XO 06 page 2/2
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THE VINEYARDS XO 07
THE VINEYARDS VSOP 03
Permitted white grape varieties in
Cognac
Colombard, Folle Blanche, Montils, Ugni Blanc, Sémillon
The specifications for the AOC Cognac list the white varieties that produce
wines for distillation into eaux-de-vie that are permitted in the “Cognac”
Appellations Contrôlées (“Eau-de-vie de Cognac” and “Eau-de-vie des
Charentes”):
Colombard, Folle Blanche, Montils, Ugni Blanc, Sémillon
In addition: Folignan
In addition, Folignan represents a maximum of 10% of the planting (per grower).
ALSO OF INTEREST
●
Details of the appellation in the appendix
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●
●
Colombard, Folle
Blanche, Montils,
Ugni Blanc,
Sémillon
In addition:
Folignan
THE VINEYARDS XO 08
THE VINEYARDS VSOP 04
Grape varieties
A predominant variety: Ugni Blanc comprises more
than 98% of Cognac vineyards
Ugni Blanc is more resistant than traditional varieties used before the
phylloxera crisis (Colombard, Folle Blanche), which were weakened by
grafting. It currently makes up more than 98% of Cognac vineyards.
Since the phylloxera crisis at the end of the 19th century, all varieties used are grafted
onto different rootstocks chosen according to soil type.
Used for its resistance to disease and its high acidity.
Low in sugar, it gives low alcohol wines
Ugni Blanc is of Italian origin (Trebbiano Toscano).
It produces high yields (120-130 hl vol/ha) and is particularly resistant to
grey rot.
A late-budding variety, it is at its northern maturation limit in the PoitouCharentes region.
The grape’s high yield and late maturation offer numerous advantages in
producing wines for distillation. They are low in alcohol and acidic – two
essential elements in the ultimate quality of the Cognac.
The acidity preserves the wine naturally during the winter months before
distillation and the low level of alcohol enables greater concentration of the
aromas present in the wines.
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●
●
A predominant
variety: Ugni
Blanc comprises
more than 98% of
Cognac vineyards
Used for its
resistance to
disease and its
high acidity.Low
in sugar, it gives
low alcohol wines
THE VINEYARDS XO 09
Grape varieties
Other varieties used:
Colombard
Folle Blanche
Montils
Folignan
●
The other varieties used are:
Colombard: which also produces regional table wines
Folle Blanche: primary variety used before the phylloxera crisis, abandoned for its
sensitivity to grey rot after grafting
Montils: local variety also used in producing Pineau des Charentes
Folignan: new variety created by crossing Ugni Blanc with Folle
Blanche. It combines the attribute of both parents: moderate yield, earlier-ripening
than Ugni Blanc. It is a little more sensitive to grey rot, but produces more complex
eaux-de-vie.
It was integrated into the appellation decree in 2005.
Although Sémillon is a grape variety authorised by the decree, it is not currently used
to make Cognac.
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Other varieties used:
Colombard
Folle Blanche
Montils
Folignan
THE VINEYARDS XO 10
THE VINEYARDS VSOP 05
Grapevine growth cycle
You can let the presentation run by itself, or stop it at any time if you would
like to comment on certain points.
This presentation reviews the key stages in the grapevine growth
cycle.
●
Budbreak (April): Buds open
●
Visible clusters: First hint of clusters
●
Distinct clusters (May): Separation of clusters
●
Flowering (June): The vine blooms. Flowering lasts less than one week
●
Setting of the vine (June): Transformation of flowers into tiny berries
●
Closing of the cluster (July): Cluster becomes more dense, berries
increase in size
●
Veraison (August): Berries become translucent
●
Maturation – harvest (September): Grapes are ready to be harvested
●
Shedding of leaves (November)
●
Dormant period
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THE VINEYARDS XO 11
Establishing vineyards—Planting
Planting takes place in spring
●
Here, we focus on managing vineyards that will produce wines for
distillation.
Parcels destined for producing table wines or must for Pineau des Charentes are managed
somewhat differently: higher vine density, limited load and yields, green harvesting, etc.
Before planting, the soil is prepared to create a favorable environment for
the seedling’s development. The soil is plowed and then analysed so that
any imbalances can be corrected.
In the spring, naked-root seedlings (or, more rarely, potted seedlings) are
planted.
Young parcels receive attentive care: watering, weeding by hand between
vine stocks, staking, protection against rabbits and other rodents etc.
The third year of growth (counting the year of planting as the first), the
young vines are considered established and begin to produce.
Watering vines under production is prohibited.
To be entitled to the appellation d'origine contrôlée “Cognac”, wines distilled to make wine
spirits must be produced from vines no younger than two years after the year in which
they were planted, which must be before the 31st of July.
Choice of rootstock depends primarily on two criteria:
limestone content of the soil
fertility of the soil according to desired production
level
The choice of rootstock depends primarily on two criteria: the limestone
content and the fertility of the soil.
Soil analysis also enables an assessment of the soil’s tendency to induce
chlorosis, which will determine which rootstock to use (chlorosis is an iron
deficiency that causes yellowing of the grape leaves).
The primary rootstocks used in the Cognac vineyard are usually limestonetolerant and make the scion fairly vigorous. RSB is the main rootstock.
RSB is not widely used in other regions
Other rootstocks used are Fercal and 333 EM. 41B, often used in the past, is barely used
at all today. In less chalky areas, SO4, P1103 and even 3309 or 101-14 can be found.
THE VINEYARDS XO 11 page 1/2
●
Planting takes
place in spring
Choice of
rootstock depends
primarily on two
criteria:
limestone content
of the soil
fertility of the soil
according to
desired
production level
In instances where vines were previously planted in a parcel, it is best to wait several
years before replanting, which is difficult for growers who only grow grapes for wine. It is
sometimes necessary to disinfect the soil to prevent the new parcel from becoming
infected with viruses.
THE VINEYARDS XO 11 page 2/2
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THE VINEYARDS XO 12
Vine training method, pruning,
trimming
High-trained, widely-spaced vines
●
The traditional shape of the vineyard, with low trained, narrowly-spaced
vines, began to change in the 1960s to one with high-trained, widely-spaced
vines. High-trained vines limit frost damage and are easier to weed beneath
the rows.
●
Widely-spaced vines make mechanisation easier and greatly reduce
production costs, while maintaining sufficient yields, provided pruning is
adapted accordingly.
Just under 3,000 vines per hectare: 3 m spacing
between rows, 1.20 m between vines
The most common spacing today is 3 m between rows (the maximum being 3.5
m) and 1.20 m between vines in each row, giving just under 3,000 vines per
hectare (new plots must have a minimum planting density of 2,200 vines per hectare).
Traditional pruning method: arch-trained or
horizontally-tied Double Guyot
Annual pruning is mandatory. All methods of pruning are authorised.
The traditional pruning method is arch-trained or horizontally-tied Double
Guyot.
On either side of the trunk of the vine, a long branch (called a “cane”) with 8-10 buds is
kept, sometimes along with a “spur” with two buds. The canes are attached to two
training wires in an arch, or, in an increasingly common, more economical method, are
tied horizontally to one wire. In general, approximately 60,000 buds/ha (24,291 buds/
acre) will remain after pruning (upper limit, 80,000 per hectare).
Closely-pruned, cordon-trained vines are also present, but this method is
less commonly used because it causes rapid vine ageing.
Both low, trained cordons and high, unattached cordons are seen.
Two pruning methods are currently becoming more widespread:
- The high arch, a long, unattached pruning method that combines the advantages of long
pruning (fertility, longevity) and the sparing of shoot positioning
- Alternating every other year between long pruning tied horizontally and spur pruning.
Each year, pre-pruning (“pré-taillage”) can be done on the portion of the vineyard that is
spur pruned.
THE VINEYARDS XO 12 page 1/2
●
●
High-trained,
widely-spaced
vines
Just under 3,000
vines per
hectare : 3 m
spacing between
rows, 1.20 m
between vines
Traditional
pruning method:
arch-trained or
horizontally-tied
Double Guyot
Trellis height:
approximately 2
meters (6.6 ft)
Trellis height: approximately 2 meters (6.6 ft)
Trellising or shoot positioning consists in lifting the new shoots in June to
tie them between training wire.
Then the ends of the shoots can be trimmed to give the plant a square shape. Shoot
positioning is one of the lengthiest, most demanding manual operations and it is
increasingly mechanised.
Trellis height of approximately 2 meters (6.6 ft) results in low vine density
compared to vineyards for producing table wine. This helps limit hydric stress
and alcohol levels in the wines.
There is very little work in the vineyard while the vines grow (from
budbreak to leaf loss), in contrast to most vineyards producing table wine
No shoot thinning, no green harvesting, no leaf removal.
Sucker removal (removal of shoots from the trunk), however, is indispensable.
ALSO OF INTEREST
●
●
Details of the appellation in the appendix
Specifications for the Cognac appellation in the media library
THE VINEYARDS XO 12 page 2/2
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THE VINEYARDS XO 13
Soil management and fertilization
Soil, climate and vine training method explain the
primary soil management techniques
●
Pedoclimatic (soil and climate) conditions, along with the vine training
method, explain the most commonly seen soil management techniques.
The soil is worked with surface tools (rotary hoe, harrow, cultivator, etc.).
This traditional technique is used especially for soil with low water reserves
such as the “groies”.
●
Deep plowing accompanied by hilling up and plowing back the vine stocks has long since
fallen out of practice.
●
Grass cover is now common in many vineyard parcels
Grass cover is now common in many vineyard parcels.
The relatively high water reserves and the way the chalky sub-soil restores water to the
vine in summer enable it to compete with grass.
Grass presents numerous advantages for the winegrower. First and
foremost it protects the soil: a tractor can enter a parcel shortly after
rainfall, to treat it against disease—downy mildew in particular – if need
be, without causing damage.
Moreover, it limits working the soil, which would increase the risk of
chlorosis (leaf discoloration of varied intensity, due to a lack of chlorophyll), by
grinding up limestone rocks; it also limits soil erosion, encourages
development of fauna that prey on rodents and improves the soil’s water
absorption.
Environmental issues are high on the region’s agenda and usually
herbicides are only applied directly beneath the rows.
Many parcels are managed in multiple ways, for example weeding beneath
the rows, planting every other row with grass cover and every other one
plowed.
THE VINEYARDS XO 13 page 1/2
Soil, climate and
vine training
method explain
the primary soil
management
techniques
Grass cover is now
common in many
vineyard parcels
Mineral
fertilisation is
most common
Mineral fertilisation is most common
Mineral fertilisation is most common.
The high level of organic matter in these soils and the limestone which
slows their degradation often make it unnecessary to use organic additives.
In addition, canes converted to mulch, on site, make up for a good portion
of the decrease in humus.
The development of grass covers is raising the issue of nitrogen fertilization. Potassium,
magnesium and phosphate additions are intended to make up for nutrients lost in the
harvest, but reserves accumulated in the soil over the years make it possible to avoid new
additions in many instances.
THE VINEYARDS XO 13 page 2/2
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THE VINEYARDS XO 14
“Lutte raisonnée” (Sustainable
viticulture)
Environmental and economic concerns are
motivating the development of an approach
called “lutte raisonnée” that involves fewer
chemicals. Organic viticulture is also used
Environmental and economic concerns are motivating the
development of an approach called “lutte raisonnée”, where
growers actively strive to reduce the vine’s sensitivity (for
example by planting vineyards with grass, which limits
sensitivity to grey rot) and make use of the balance of nature
(for example, by using predators to control other acarids).
Organic viticulture is also present.
Approximately 8 treatments are necessary to guarantee harvest quality.
The major problems with vine health arise from the Atlantic climate and Ugni
Blanc’s characteristics.
Year-round rainfall encourages the development of fungal diseases: downy
mildew, powdery mildew. These dreaded diseases require constant vigilance.
Ugni Blanc is also very sensitive to wood diseases and bacterial necrosis. On
the other hand, its loose bunches are not very prone to grey rot.
Overall, pests are not a big problem, but the presence of “flavescence
dorée” (a virus-like disease) makes it necessary to treat a portion of the
vineyards against the insect that spreads it.
NOTE
The particularity of the Cognac vineyards imposes specific
restrictions concerning the use of phytosanitary products.
The BNIC has established a monitoring and communication
unit to address this situation.
The objective is to provide the region’s technicians and winegrowers with
recommendations regarding phytosanitary protection, while respecting
consumer food safety.
THE VINEYARDS XO 14 page 1/2
●
Environmental and
economic concerns are
motivating the development
of an approach called “lutte
raisonnée” that involves
fewer chemicals. Organic
viticulture is also used
As part of the HACCP (Hazard Analysis Critical Control Point) approach, the
BNIC’s Station Viticole is establishing a classification of phytosanitary
products into three lists, taking into account the various results obtained to
date. These lists have been established based on the particularities of the
vineyards and Cognac production characteristics. In no case may they be
generalized to other situations.
This information is updated and distributed once yearly in May. It is available
on the BNIC website: www.cognac.fr.
Recommendations for the use of phytosanitary products are also available on
the database via the BNIC Extranet, where they are continually updated as
new results are obtained.
THE VINEYARDS XO 14 page 2/2
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HARVEST XO 01
HARVEST VSOP 01
HARVEST VS 01
The harvest
Mid-September to mid-October
●
Harvesting can begin as soon as the grapes have reached maturity (balance
In general, the harvest starts in mid-September and
ends around mid-October.
between sugar and acidity).
A few growers continue to harvest by hand (mainly the young vines), but
mechanical harvesting is almost universal in the Cognac region.
The mechanical harvester: well-suited to the demands
of the region’s winegrowers
Today, mechanical harvesters, which have existed for more than 30 years,
are perfectly suited to both the volume harvested and the quality
requirements of the region’s winegrowers (respect for the harvest).
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●
Mid-September to
mid-October
The mechanical
harvester: wellsuited to the
demands of the
region’s
winegrowers
HARVEST XO 02
HARVEST VSOP 02
HARVEST VS 02
The mechanical harvester
The mechanical harvester
●
Video.
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The mechanical
harvester
HARVEST XO 03
Search for optimum quality
The care put into the harvest, from the vine to the
press, influences the aromas and composition of the
future eaux-de-vie
The conditions under which the harvest takes place, from picking to
pressing, have an influence on the aromas and composition of the future
eaux-de-vie.
Indeed, in recent years, several studies have enabled a better
understanding of certain important mechanisms that take place during the
harvest and explain their direct or indirect effects on the quality of the
Cognac.
After picking, the harvest must be quickly brought to the cellar and
pressed, to limit oxidation of the grapes.
To keep up with improved performance by mechanical harvesters, pressing
facilities have had to adapt.
The use of centrifugal pumps to transfer the harvest is banned.
NOTE
In the Cognac region, winegrowers never sell their harvest to Cognac
merchants. More than 5,500 growers produce wines that will be distilled to
produce Cognac.
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●
The care put into
the harvest, from
the vine to the
press, influences
the aromas and
composition of the
future eaux-de-vie
HARVEST XO 04
Pressing
Traditional use of the horizontal basket press or the
pneumatic press
●
Grape bunches are pressed immediately after picking, in traditional,
horizontal basket presses or pneumatic presses.
Continuous screw presses are prohibited. The juice obtained is fermented
immediately.
Progressive extraction of juice, reduced amounts of
gross lees and minimal oxidation of the must
A good pressing should meet 3 requirements:
●
●
●
Qualitative requirement: progressive extraction of juices, production of
minimal must deposit and low oxidation of the must ;
Technical requirement: adaptation to harvest rate to avoid holding time
that is detrimental to quality ;
Practical requirement: ease of use and maintenance
During pressing, the type of equipment and how it is used affect the quality
of the must.
Pressing and fermentation are attentively monitored, for they will have a
determining influence on the ultimate quality of the eau-de-vie.
For example, limiting production of deposits and their release into the must. Excessive
must deposit is undesirable in Cognac vinification because it can result in an increase in
“higher alcohols” (or “fusel oils”) in the eaux-de-vie (which, at high concentrations, result
in a loss of elegance in the spirits). This point will be developed in the section
“Vinification”.
ALSO OF INTEREST
●
●
Details of the appellation in the appendix
Specifications for the Cognac appellation in the media library
© January 2009 Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac AFAQ
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●
Traditional use of
the horizontal
basket press or
the pneumatic
press
Progressive
extraction of
juice, reduced
amounts of gross
lees and minimal
oxidation of the
must
HARVEST XO 05
Pressing
Horizontal basket presses
●
Technical illustration. Comments can be made at the end of the demonstration.
The mechanical horizontal basket press is simple to use and sturdily
designed. It is the most commonly used
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Horizontal basket
presses
HARVEST XO 06
Pressing
Pneumatic presses
●
Technical illustration. Comments can be made at the end of the demonstration.
The more modern design of pneumatic presses enables must extraction
under lower pressure, more gently breaking up the charge of pressed
grapes than a basket press.
Pneumatic presses can have an axially or longitudinally mounted membrane. With equal
loads, these two types offer comparable draining rates.
A pneumatic press can be filled either directly through its doors or via axial feeds.
Pneumatic presses make it possible to better optimise pressing by adjusting
their cycle according to the nature of the harvest and the characteristics of
the juice.
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Pneumatic presses
VINIFICATION XO 01
Characteristics of the wine
●
Acidic and low in alcohol: Two essential qualities for a
wine intended for distillation
As mentioned above, must intended for vinification in the Cognac region,
yields wines with very particular qualities: low alcohol levels (about 9%
abv.), enabling better concentration of the wine’s aromatic compounds;
and high acidity, an indispensable quality for natural preservation of the
wine.
●
At the time they are to be distilled, wines must have a minimum alcoholic degree of 7%
and a maximum alcoholic degree of 12%. Their volatile acidity content must be equal to
or less than 12.25 milliequivalents per litre.
●
Vinification in the Cognac region: Addition of sugar or
sulfur is prohibited
The particularity of vinification in the Cognac region is that chaptalization
and addition of sulphur are prohibited (the use of sulphur dioxide is forbidden
during fermentation).
If it were used, SO2 would be concentrated by distillation and create
unacceptable flaws in Cognac eaux-de-vie.
Two fermentations: Alcoholic then malolactic
Vinification in the Cognac Region takes place in two successive
fermentations: alcoholic then malolactic fermentation.
We will expand upon these two steps in the following chapters.
ALSO OF INTEREST
●
●
Details of the appellation in the appendix
Specifications for the Cognac appellation in the media library
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Acidic and low in
alcohol: Two
essential qualities
for a wine
intended for
distillation
Vinification in the
Cognac region:
Addition of sugar
or sulfur is
prohibited
Two
fermentations:
Alcoholic then
malolactic
VINIFICATION XO 02
Alcoholic fermentation
Effected by the yeast Saccharomyces cerevisiae
●
Alcoholic fermentation, which lasts 4-8 days, is effected by the yeast
species Saccharomyces cerevisiae.
To multiply, Saccharomyces cerevisiae consumes the nutrients in the must
and its metabolic activity is expressed in two essential phenomena: the
conversion of sugars in the must into alcohol (ethanol) and the production
of volatile compounds responsible for the aromas of the new eau-de-vie.
●
●
Conversion of sugars in the must into alcohol
In practice, the winemaker monitors the progression of alcoholic
fermentation, measuring must weight daily with a “mustimetre”: the
density decreases as the sugars are converted into alcohol.
This reaction generates energy (an exergonic reaction).
Temperature curve appears on the screen.
Some of the energy produced is used by the yeast to continue to multiply
(the yeast population reaches 100 million cells per ml [3 billion cells per ounce] during
alcoholic fermentation),
but most of this energy is released in the form of heat,
which explains the rise in temperature during alcoholic fermentation.
Above 30°C (86°F), the temperature may inhibit yeast growth, which is
why winemakers must monitor the fermenting wine’s temperature daily.
Production of volatile compounds generating the
aromas of the new eau-de-vie
Parallel to the conversion of sugars into alcohol, the yeast produces a wide
variety of volatile compounds that will be concentrated during distillation.
these will generate the new eau-de-vie’s aromas.
The primary volatile compounds synthesised by the yeast are aldehydes, higher alcohols,
fatty acid esters, acetate esters, or esters of higher alcohols.
VINIFICATION XO 02 page 1/2
Effected by the
yeast
Saccharomyces
cerevisiae
Conversion of
sugars in the must
into alcohol
Production of
volatile
compounds
generating the
aromas of the new
eau-de-vie
The formation of most esters is sought after, for these compounds give the
eaux-de-vie fruity (banana, pear…) and floral (linden flower, rose, violet…)
aromas.
Other compounds produced by the yeast (higher alcohols, ethyl acetate, acetaldehyde…)
contribute aromas to the eau-de-vie but can alter quality when they exceed known
concentration thresholds.
VINIFICATION XO 02 page 2/2
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VINIFICATION XO 03
Alcoholic fermentation
Necessity of controlling the progress of fermentation
To control the synthesis of all these volatile compounds, an optimum
fermentation cycle must be established – in other words, a cycle that will
lead to the optimum development of Saccharomyces cerevisiae.
This means:
● rapid start of alcoholic fermentation to avoid the appearance of
undesirable micro-organisms during the prefermentation phase (there
will be no SO2 to remove them!);
●
steady progress;
●
complete consumption of sugars by the yeast.
●
●
The winemaker’s goal is to avoid:
● significant temperature increases related to a fermentation that is
proceeding too quickly (e.g., 4 days);
(see 4-day graph).
●
●
fermentation that proceeds too slowly, which could lead to premature
multiplication of bacteria and overlapping of alcoholic fermentation
with malolactic fermentation, which must absolutely be avoided.
(lactic acescence, which will be revisited in the chapter on MLF) (see 10-day graph).
Yeast addition: A winemaking practice that improves
control over alcoholic fermentation
The practice of yeast addition has become increasingly widespread. This
practice consists in seeding the must with a select population of
Saccharomyces cerevisiae of about 1 million cells per ml (about 30 million
cells per fluid ounce).
The goal is twofold:
● ensure rapid start to fermentation;
● populate must with a strain with known qualities.
Indeed, it is important to know that there is great variability within the species S.
cerevisiae: strains belonging to this species present physiological characteristics that can
differ widely.
The analytical and sensory profile of a wine is therefore dependent on the strain of
Saccharomyces cerevisiae that dominated in the must during alcoholic fermentation.
VINIFICATION XO 03 page 1/2
●
Necessity of
controlling the
progress of
fermentation
Yeast addition: A
winemaking
practice that
improves control
over alcoholic
fermentation
Addition of
nitrogen in case of
deficiency
Other factors
influence yeast
metabolism:
presence of must
deposit,
temperature
The necessity of controlling the formation of volatile compounds in the
wines has led researchers and oenologists to select the best-suited strains.
Today, most winemakers seed the must with selected yeasts.
Strain FC9, for example, was selected in the Cognac region vineyards as a result of an
extensive ecological study performed in the 1990s.
Addition of nitrogen in case of deficiency
However, the practice of yeast addition and choice of a particular strain of
yeast are not always sufficient to ensure good development of fermentation.
The nitrogen content of the must plays a prime role here, for it is a limiting
factor in yeast growth.
If the must is nitrogen-deficient, fermentation will be too slow and the risk
of lactic spoilage will be very high.
This is why the winemaker may add nitrogen to a deficient must.
These additions encourage yeast growth and therefore the speed of
fermentation. Ecologically speaking, they are preferable to excessive vine
fertilisation.
Current regulations allow the addition of ammonium salt to the maximum dose of 100 g/
hl (1.4 oz/gal). However, few situations require such supplements. Additions in the region
are often around 20 g/hl (0.3 oz/gal). Exceeding the 50 g/hl (0.7 oz/gal) total dose of
supplements is discouraged, at the risk of seeing significant changes in the analytical
profile of the resulting eaux-de-vie.
Other factors influence yeast metabolism: presence of
must deposit, temperature
Other factors influence the production of volatile compounds and,
consequently, the aroma profile of the new eaux-de-vie. Some of these
factors include :
● greater or lesser presence of must deposit ;
● temperature (controlled temperature of about 22°C (72°F) yields more
aromatic esters).
The aroma profile of the new eaux-de-vie is also closely tied to the composition of the
fermenting must. This relationship is complex and explains differences in vintages. The
Station Viticole is currently studying this subject.
VINIFICATION XO 03 page 2/2
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VINIFICATION XO 04
Malolactic fermentation
Conversion of malic acid into lactic acid
Malolactic fermentation refers to the conversion of malic acid into lactic
acid by lactic bacteria. Its progress can be easily analysed and controlled via
paper chromatography.
●
●
The progress of malolactic fermentation (beginning, duration) varies
widely according to the circumstances.
It can begin immediately after alcoholic fermentation and be completed in
less than five days.
●
Or, sometimes it will take several weeks before beginning and
decomposition of the malic acid can take several more weeks.
In certain cases, malolactic fermentation does not take place at all and the wines are
Conversion of
malic acid into
lactic acid
Caused by
bacteria belonging
to the species
Oenococcus oeni
Malolactic
fermentation:
Mechanism for
regulating residual
acetaldehyde in
the wine
distilled without it. In order for malolactic fermentation to start, there must be a phase of
bacterial growth.
●
Caused by bacteria belonging to the species
Oenococcus oeni
Malolactic fermentation is carried out by bacteria belonging to the species
Oenococcus oeni. These bacteria are present in the must and, in principle,
only grow once alcoholic fermentation is completed.
At the end of alcoholic fermentation, yeast cells begin to die, ceasing to produce
compounds that inhibit the bacteria and providing nutrients that will enable the bacteria
to multiply.
It is essential that alcoholic and malolactic fermentation not overlap.
Premature bacteria growth in the presence of unfermented sugars would damage quality.
Again, perfect control of the alcoholic fermentation—and thereby the metabolism of the
yeast—is decisive.
Malolactic fermentation: Mechanism for regulating
residual acetaldehyde in the wine
Malolactic fermentation is not mandatory.
In table wines (particularly red wines), malolactic fermentation is indispensable for it
reduces the wine’s acidity, in contrast to wines for distillation.
VINIFICATION XO 04 04 page 1/2
Improved stability
for wines awaiting
distillation
However, this process is often recommended because, as mentioned
earlier, it yields somewhat rounder eaux-de-vie and reduces the level of
acetaldehydes which may have been produced in too large quantity by the
yeast.
Improved stability for wines awaiting distillation
Moreover, once this conversion has taken place, the wine being stored
before distillation is more microbiologically stable (its malic acid, a primary
substrate for numerous bacteria species, has been consumed).
Because of this waiting period and the absence of sulphur additions, the
Cognac region must rely on acidic must, as the pH is an essential factor in
natural preservation.
VINIFICATION XO 04 04 page 2/2
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VINIFICATION XO 05
Quality control: An indispensable step
in vinification
The quality of the newly distilled eaux-de-vie depends
largely on the quality of the wine
●
The quality of the newly distilled eaux-de-vie depends largely on the quality
of the base wines.
To avoid the main risks for poor quality related to wine, selection
procedures involving tasting or analysis have become universal.
Wine selection can vary from one producer to another, but the objective is always the
same: quality control ensures that the vinification and conservation of the wines are
carried out successfully.
Micro-distillation: A complement to tasting and analysis
Micro-distillation is a simulation of the two-step “repasse” method of
distillation.
The technique of laboratory micro-distillation is most often used to
complement tasting and analysis of the wine.
Production quality can then be refined, based on distillation method, types of materials
and equipment used.
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●
The quality of the
newly distilled
eaux-de-vie
depends largely
on the quality of
the wine
Micro-distillation:
A complement to
tasting and
analysis
DISTILLATION XO O1
Why distill?
Distillation concentrates the aromas by extracting and
filtering out the best volatile compounds from the wine
Alcohol is a product of the fermentation of sugars found naturally in fruit
as fructose and glucose.
Alcohol is also found in combination with many other compounds and
must therefore be isolated from them.
This operation is performed by distillation.
The principle of distillation is based on the differences in volatility of these
compounds (their ability to evaporate depends on their boiling point: the
most volatile compound has a lower boiling point than the least volatile).
Thus, the eau-de-vie contains only the volatile substances, which make up
the main features of the bouquet.
During distillation, 3 important events occur:
●
extraction of volatile substances (the quality of the other substances plays a
;
filtering of volatile substances (rectification): for an eau-de-vie, this
simply means eliminating the unwanted volatile substances ;
transformation that occurs during the distillation process: creation of
aromatic compounds that can affect the taste of the eaux-de-vie.
part, since they represent 0.3 to 1% of the alcohol)
●
●
In the end, it can be said that, alcohol (ethanol) is the vehicle that draws out
the volatile compounds.
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●
Distillation
concentrates the
aromas by
extracting and
filtering out the
best volatile
compounds from
the wine
DISTILLATION XO O2
End of the 13th century:
French wines are first distilled
End of the 13th century: Arnaud de Villeneuve, a
doctor and theologian, is the first person to distill
French wines
●
It was at the end of the 13th century that the idea of distilling wine occurred
to Frenchman, Arnaud de Villeneuve (1238-1311).
Through this process, he obtained “a product that can
cure poisoning, clear the chest, prolong life and
maintain youth”
Amazed by the quality of the product he had obtained, he attributed every
virtue to it:
“This product can cure poisoning, clear the chest, prolong life and maintain
youth.” Thus what should have been “eau de feu” (“firewater”) became “eaude-vie” (“water of life”). (Source: Annuaire BERAULD, 1896-1897)
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●
End of the 13th
century: Arnaud
de Villeneuve, a
doctor and
theologian, is the
first person to
distill French
wines
Through this
process, he
obtained “a
product that can
cure poisoning,
clear the chest,
prolong life and
maintain youth”
DISTILLATION XO O3
DISTILLATION VSOP O2
Different distillation methods
Continuous distillation column: prohibited for Cognac
eaux-de-vie
●
There are several distillation techniques used to produce spirits. Their
differences stem from the way the distillation is carried out :
●
continuous distillation is prohibited in the production of Cognac but
generaly used to make vodka and most whiskies.
●
Double distillation in batches known as “repasse”:
mandatory for making Cognac eaux-de-vie
●
double distillation in batches, also called “repasse”: This is the
traditional and long-established Charentaise distillation method and is
the mandatory technique for producing Cognac. It is carried out in two
successive “chauffes” (heatings) using a traditional “Charentais” still.
●
Double distillation results in better aroma
concentration
Double distillation results in an aromatic eau-de-vie, unlike continuous
distillation in column stills, which aims to produce a more neutral eau-devie.
The heating method, heating time and shape of the
equipment, all have an effect on the quality of an eaude-vie
The heating method, heating time and shape of the equipment, all have an
effect on the quality of an eau-de-vie.
The shape of the equipment helps filter the volatile substances.
© January 2009 Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac AFAQ
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●
Continuous
distillation
column:
prohibited for
Cognac eaux-devie
Double distillation
in batches known
as “repasse”:
mandatory for
making Cognac
eaux-de-vie
Double distillation
results in better
aroma
concentration
The heating
method, heating
time and shape of
the equipment, all
have an effect on
the quality of an
eau-de-vie
DISTILLATION XO O4
DISTILLATION VSOP O3
Charentaise distillation
The features of the Charentais pot still are defined in the specifications for
the AOC Cognac.
●
Maximum boiler load: 25 hl for the “bonne
chauffe” (second distillation)
●
●
1st chauffe
To obtain the brouillis, the still may have a maximum capacity of
140 hl (with a tolerance of 5%). The load volume of wine is limited to
120 hl (with a tolerance of 5%).
●
2nd chauffe
●
For the “bonne chauffe”, the total capacity of the still must not
exceed 30 hl (with a tolerance of 5%) and the load volume is limited to
25 hl.
Boiler heated over an open flame
The boiler must be heated over an open flame according to traditional and
customary usage. In fact, distillation over an open flame allows the
complementary aromas to come together when the wine comes into contact
with the bottom of the boiler.
Maximum alcohol content: 72,4% abv at 20°C
Only those eaux-de-vie that contain a maximum alcohol content of 72,4%
abv at 20°C can benefit from the Cognac AOC designation (after double
distillation, in the recipient which collects the wine spirit every day).
Distillation completed no later than March 31
The wines must be distilled no later than March 31 of the year following the
harvest.
ALSO OF INTEREST
●
●
Details of the appellation in the appendix
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Maximum boiler
load: 25 hl for the
“bonne
chauffe” (second
distillation)
Boiler heated over
an open flame
Maximum alcohol
content: 72,4% abv
at 20°C
Distillation
completed no later
than March 31
DISTILLATION XO 05
The Charentais pot still
Three main components
●
The Charentais pot still (“alembic”) has three main components:
●
●
●
Boiler or pot: Vessel holding the wine or “brouillis” ;
Still head and swan’s neck: Collect the vapours and rectify (filter) them,
depending on the shape and volume of the piece (e.g. onion or olive
shaped still heads) ;
Condenser and coil: Condense the vapours and regulate the temperature
of the distillate.
The Charentais still is made of copper
The boiler, still-head, swan-neck and coil must be made of copper (as set
down in the specifications for the AOC Cognac).
This metal is chosen for its physical properties (malleability, good heat
conduction) and its chemical reactivity with certain components of the
wine, which make it an indispensable catalyst for obtaining quality eaux-devie.
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●
Three main
components
The Charentais
still is made of
copper
DISTILLATION XO 06
DISTILLATION VSOP 04
DISTILLATION VS 02
Charentaise distillation method
Optional comments to accompany the on-screen
demonstration
1/ The Charentais distillation process must be performed following the
traditional method, meaning that Cognac is double-distilled in copper stills.
2/ The still is made up of three essential parts.
The Charentais copper still comprises a characteristically shaped boiler set over direct
heat; a still head shaped like a turban (the traditional “tête de maure” form), an olive, or
an onion; and a swan’s neck tube that continues to become a coil, passing through a
cooling tank referred to as the “pipe.”
3/The Pre-heater: is an optional element. It is generally used to preheat the
wine waiting for the distillation process to begin, thereby saving energy and
idle time between distillations.
The Charentais still is often equipped with an energy-saving wine preheater. This
accessory preheats the next batch of wine using the heat from the vapours that pass
through it.
4/ The white wine collected from the Delimited Production Region is
introduced in the pot (or boiler).
5/ The wine is brought to its boiling point.
6/ Alcohol vapors are freed and accumulate on the still-head, while the
most volatile pass through the swan's neck,
7/ finally to arrive at the condensing coil.
8/ When they meet the cold water, they condense and form a cloudy liquid
known as "brouillis".
9/ This liquid, which contains an alcohol content of 27 to 32% is then
returned to the boiler for a second distillation.
For this second heating, the boiler capacity must not exceed 30 hl and the load volume is
limited to 25 hl (with a tolerance of 5%).
10 /The first litres of distillate obtained from the second distillation or
‘bonne chauffe’ are referred to as the ‘heads’. They have a high alcohol
content (between 82% and 78% abv) and are separated from the rest.
The distiller carries out the delicate operation known as “cutting” (“la coupe”). The
“heads” represent 1-2% of the volume.
DISTILLATION XO 06, VSOP 04, VS 02 - page 1/2
11/ Gradually, the alcohol content in the distillate reduces. After the
‘heads’, the distiller obtains the ‘heart’, a bright, clear liquid that will
produce Cognac.
12/ The ‘second cuts’ are produced after the ‘heart’. These are redistilled
with next batch of wine or ‘brouillis’. The last part of the distillate to run off
are the ‘tails’...
The distiller gathers the “secondes”—when the alcohol meter registers 60% abv.—and
finally, the “tails” at the end of distillation. The “heads” and “secondes” are redistilled with
the next batch of wine or brouillis. .
13/ The heart of the ‘bonne chauffe’ is then put into oak barrels to begin its
ageing process.
The success of the distilling cycle, which lasts about 24 hours, lies in constant monitoring,
close attention and extensive experience on the part of the distiller, who may also
intervene in the distillation techniques (proportion of fine lees, recycling of “secondes” in
batches of wine or brouillis, temperature curves, etc.), thus stamping his or her
personality on the Cognac.
DISTILLATION XO 06, VSOP 04, VS 02 - page 2/2
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DISTILLATION XO 07
Distillation
About 9 litres of wine for 1 litre of eau-de-vie at 72%
abv.
●
It takes 9 litres of wine to obtain 1 litre of eau-de-vie at 72% abv. That
means two-thirds of the initial volume is lost with each heating.
For 25 hl of wine, 9 hl of brouillis are obtained. So it takes three times as
much wine to obtain the volume of brouillis needed for the second
distillation, the “bonne chauffe”.
The heart of the “bonne chauffe”: 40% of the volume
of the brouillis
During the second distillation, the first, most volatile products are
discarded. In too high concentration, they would alter the quality of the
eau-de-vie. These are the “heads” (“têtes”). They represent 1-2% of the
volume of the brouillis.
The next products to appear are much finer and rich in floral aromas. They
constitute the “heart” (“cœur”) of the distillation, the future Cognac—about
40% of the volume of the brouillis.
The following portion is called the “secondes”, representing about 30% of
the volume of the brouillis. Neither the “secondes” nor the
“tails” (“queues”) — the last 10% of the distillate—will be kept.
This separation of the different portions is called “cutting” (“la coupe”).
The remaining volume of the brouillis is composed of residues, which are not distilled.
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●
About
9 litres of wine
for 1 litre
of
eau-de-vie
at 72% abv.
The heart of the
“bonne chauffe”:
40% of the volume
of the brouillis
DISTILLATION XO 08
Distillation: Pace and duration of
heating
The “bonne chauffe”: about 13 hours
●
The first heating, where the wine is distilled, lasts about 9 hours; the
“bonne chauffe” (second heating), about 13 hours.
●
Different pouring-off temperatures
It is important to control pouring-off temperatures.
●
Analyses of eaux-de-vie show reduced solubility of volatile fatty acid esters
at low temperatures, even for small temperature differences.
The low temperature at which the brouillis is poured off, combined with the
copper’s reactivity, keep back the fatty acids and other undesirable
compounds from the wine. Brouillis is poured off between 13 and 15°C (5559°F).
Since the brouillis was already filtered when drawn, the pouring-off
temperature of the heart of the second distillation is less crucial. It can be
higher and varies from 17 to 20°C (63-68°F).
The nature of the “secondes”, which are rich in coarser compounds and the
increase in the heating temperature impose a reduction of the pouring-off
temperature to achieve a better selection. This takes place between 13 and
15°C (55-59°F).
It can also be noted that the effect of the pouring-off temperature on the insolubility of
certain esters seems selective. The most volatile compounds are more subjected to the
phenomenon.
Several factors influence the characteristics of the
eaux-de-vie
The way the distillation is conducted has some influence on the final result:
● whether the wine is distilled on its lees or not ;
● the pace and duration of the heating ;
● the decision whether to recycle the “secondes” with the next batch of
wine or brouillis and ;
● the percentage of “heads” and “tails” removed,
can all subtly affect the characteristics of the eau-de-vie.
For example, it is possible to “pull” a little more on the “secondes” (draw off more of
them), mainly for eaux-de-vie destined for long ageing, to obtain heady notes of brioche.
The distiller adapts his approach according to the kind of eau-de-vie desired.
DISTILLATION XO 08 page 1/2
●
The “bonne
chauffe”: about
13 hours
Different pouringoff temperatures
Several factors
influence the
characteristics of
the eaux-de-vie
More than 4,000
grower-distillers
and a hundred
professional
distillers
More than 4,000 grower-distillers and a hundred
professional distillers
Distillers in the Cognac region include:
●
Grower-distillers (bouilleurs de cru) : Those who distill or subcontract
the distillation of their wines.
The region has more than 4,000 grower-distillers, of whom 1,300 own
their own stills. Certain grower-distillers also sell direct (just over 500).
The majority sell their eaux-de-vie to the Cognac houses.
Note: In the region, grower-distillers are not itinerant.
●
●
Professional distillers purchase wine, distill it and sell Cognac eaux-devie. They can also distill for others. There are just over 100 of them.
There are also several distillation cooperatives.
DISTILLATION XO 08 page 2/2
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AGEING XO 01
AGEING VSOP 01
AGEING VS 01
Exclusively in oak barrels
Ageing takes place exclusively in oak casks
Eaux-de-vie are aged exclusively in oak casks, without interruption, solely
in a storage facility registered with the Bureau National Interprofessionnel
du Cognac. This registration is mandatory to obtain the necessary Cognac
certificates, guaranteeing age and origin that only the BNIC is authorised to
issue and which are required for export.
Controlled by the BNIC
All aspects of ageing are controlled by the BNIC by special authorisation
from Customs (2003 executive order modified).
ALSO OF INTEREST
●
Executive order of July 2003
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●
●
Ageing takes place
exclusively in oak
casks
Controlled by the
BNIC
AGEING XO 02
Barrel making: Two types of oak
Only two types of oak: “Sessile” or “Pedunculate” oak
Only two types of oak are used in making casks for Cognac: “sessile” and
“pedunculate” oak (Quercus sessiliflora and Quercus pedunculata,
respectively). These two types are present in much of Europe.
Sessile oak releases less tannin than pedunculate oak and more methyloctalactones (compounds giving off aromas of wood and coconut).
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●
Only two types of
oak: “Sessile” or
“Pedunculate” oak
AGEING XO 03
Barrel making: Wood grain and
silviculture
The grain of the wood depends on the density of the
forest
●
The grain is the name given to the width of the growth rings. One ring
equals one year of growth; counting them gives the age of the tree.
●
The width of annual growth depends mostly on the density of the trees. The
closer they grow, the more they have to compete for light and water, so the
less they grow in a year. There are various methods of silviculture.
●
Timber forest: High density, fine grain
Timber forests (e.g. the Tronçais forest in Allier) are composed of trees of
the same age; density is high and the grain (ring width) is tight.
Logs are long, without knots. These oaks are known to have particularly
soft tannins.
In the past, the goal of this style of silviculture was to produce timber for building
warships. The Tronçais forest in the Allier département was planted by Colbert for the
construction of Louis XIV’s royal fleet. Ironically Colbert was very involved in the fight
against alcohol consumption yet his forest contributes to producing one of the best spirits
in the world!
Natural forest: Low density, wide grain
Natural forest (e.g., the Limousin forest): trees are of different ages and
density is lower. This dynamic cultivation method produces greater
volumes of wood.
Logs can be cut younger (at 120 years old, as opposed to over 200 in a
timber forest).
The grain is wider and the logs are shorter. An eau-de-vie resting in casks
made from this kind of oak can extract more tannin.
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The grain of the
wood depends on
the density of the
forest
Timber forest:
High density, fine
grain
Natural forest:
Low density, wide
grain
AGEING XO 04
Barrel making : Two types of wood
Tronçais: sessile, fine grain (timber forest)
●
Limousin: pedunculate, wide grain (natural forest)
Traditionally, wood for Cognac is sourced in the Limousin or Tronçais
forests.
These two forests present opposite characteristics:
●
●
Tronçais : sessile, fine grain (timber forest);
Limousin : pedunculate, wide grain (natural forest).
Limousin oak contributes more tannins, while Tronçais oak, more aromatic
compounds: methyl-octalactones (wood, coconut), eugenol (cloves), etc.
Each house chooses the oak it will use to age its eaux-de-vie based on the
style of Cognac it is seeking to produce.
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●
Tronçais: sessile,
fine grain (timber
forest)
Limousin:
pedunculate, wide
grain (natural
forest)
AGEING XO 05
AGEING VSOP 02
Barrel making: From log to staves
Only 20% of the tree can be used to make barrels
●
Only 20% of the tree can be used to make barrels.
The requisite criteria are:
●
●
●
●
sufficient diameter,
absence of knots,
straight grain.
The parts of the logs that meet these requirements are said to be of “qualité
merrain” (merrain quality: the word “merrain” in French designates wood
split by hand for use as staves).
“Merrains” are split from the heartwood
The “merrains” are split from the heartwood. The heartwood is composed
of dead cells; it supports the tree, but no longer has any physiological
purpose.
The “merrains” must follow the grain of the wood to achieve a watertight
cask, so they are split rather than sawn.
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Only 20% of the
tree can be used
to make barrels
“Merrains” are
split from the
heartwood
AGEING XO 06
AGEING VSOP 03
Barrel making : Drying the wood
The “merrains” have a high moisture level
Drying or “seasoning” is indispensable to achieve
water content of about 15%
As the “merrains” have a high moisture level, a drying or “seasoning” stage
is indispensable to achieve water content of about 15%.
As the woods dries, it shrinks and its volume decreases.
Drying is therefore necessary before making the casks, in order to obtain
boards that will not shrink once assembly is complete. If the “merrains” are not
dry enough, they continue to dry after the cask is completed, resulting in leaks.
Generally stored and dried out in the open, “merrains” are exposed to the
weather. Under these conditions, washed of their coarsest tannins, they
reach an appropriate moisture level in under a year.
However, the seasoning stage is generally longer, as the “merrains” mature.
This maturation has a positive effect on quality: it yields eaux-de-vie with a
more supple mouthfeel and more distinct aromas.
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●
●
The “merrains”
have a high
moisture level
Drying or
“seasoning” is
indispensable to
achieve water
content of about
15%
AGEING XO 07
AGEING VSOP 04
AGEING VS 02
Barrel making
Film on barrel making (Optional comments)
●
Drying the “merrains”
●
Making the heads
●
Assembling the staves
●
Warm-up (“chauffe”) and shaping (“cintrage”)
The wood is moistened regularly as it is subjected to the fire, softening the staves and
impregnating each with the scent of freshly baked bread. During this warm-up period, a
hoop placed at the base of the cask is progressively tightened so that the staves come
together, ultimately joining without the need for glue or nails.
●
Bousinage
The intensity of toasting (“bousinage”) greatly influences the characteristics of the eauxde-vie. The smell of bousinage evokes that of freshly baked baguettes.
●
Bung hole
●
Fitting the heads
●
Testing for leaks
After the last finishing touches, the cask is tested for solidity and injected with boiling
water to reveal any leaks.
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AGEING XO 08
AGEING VSOP 05
Barrel making: “Bousinage”
“Bousinage” or toasting of the casks transforms
macromolecules in the wood
●
After shaping, the casks are toasted.
The goal of “bousinage” is to develop the wood’s aromas, such as vanilla
and toasted bread.
From a chemical standpoint, this “cooking” partially decomposes the
wood’s macromolecules into smaller aromatic molecules, which will be
easier for the eau-de-vie to absorb.
(The macromolecules in wood are lignin, cellulose and hemicellulose.)
The intensity of the toasting influences the sensory
characteristics of the eaux-de-vie
Each level of heat intensity corresponds to an aroma profile, with a balance
between the various volatile compounds formed.
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●
“Bousinage” or
toasting of the casks
transforms
macromolecules in
the wood
The intensity of the
toasting influences
the sensory
characteristics of the
eaux-de-vie
AGEING XO 09
AGEING VSOP 06
Eau-de-vie meets oak
The new eau-de-vie will spend several years in oak
casks
The new eau-de-vie will spend several years in oak casks. This is the ageing
stage. The maturation that takes place can last for decades.
As the eau-de-vie ages, it evolves: its aromas, colour and flavour all change.
This evolution is related most notably to the compounds in the heartwood
and its permeability:
Its compounds are extracted by the eau-de-vie.
It must be watertight enough not to lose any liquid but permeable enough to allow the
exchange of gas.
Historically, oak seems to have been chosen for its long, usable life cycle.
Indeed, casks can be used for several decades.
The new eau-de-vie is placed in oak containers as soon as it leaves the still,
no later than one month after the distillation period. (April 30 of the year
following harvest).
Wine spirits for direct human consumption are aged in wooden receptacles for at least two
years (as per a modified 2003 decree abrogating the law dated 20 February 1946) in the
region of production.
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●
The new eau-de-vie
will spend several
years in oak casks
AGEING XO 10
First stage of ageing: Extraction
The eau-de-vie extracts the compounds from the wood
●
The first phenomenon observed is the extraction of compounds by the eaude-vie (lignin, tannins, hemicellulose, etc.).
This is the first stage of ageing.
●
At this stage, the aromas of the eau-de-vie and those of the wood are
relatively distinct.
There are many factors influencing extraction, such as type of oak, drying
time of the wood and intensity of barrel toasting.
The age of the barrels (brand new or having already contained Cognac eauxde-vie) and the surface-to-volume ratio also influence extraction.
From contact with the wood, the crystal clear eau-devie takes on its characteristic colour and develops its
aromas and bouquet
From contact with the wood, the crystal clear eau-de-vie takes on its
characteristic colour and develops its aromas and bouquet: the scent of
oak, warm vanilla and the aromas brought out during toasting.
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The eau-de-vie
extracts the
compounds from the
wood
From contact with the
wood, the crystal
clear eau-de-vie takes
on its characteristic
colour and develops
its aromas and
bouquet
AGEING XO 11
Chemical changes and transfer of
substances
After extraction, the eau-de-vie “digests” the wood
After extraction, the eau-de-vie “digests” the wood.
This is also referred to as the “marriage” of the eau-de-vie and the
compounds in the wood.
●
●
With time, the taste mellows, the bouquet becomes
richer and the colour deepens
As the years progress, the smell of the oak gives away to floral and vanilla
aromas and the colour deepens. The eau-de-vie becomes increasingly
mellow, the bouquet richer and the taste less sharp. Now the flavour known
as “rancio” appears.
Appearance of “rancio”
“Rancio” is characterised by notes of mushrooms, damp undergrowth and
walnut oil—complex and specific aromas that develop during the long
barrel ageing and increase in intensity with the years.
Experience has shown that the different crus have a different potential for
extended ageing: for example, eaux-de-vie from the “Champagne” crus are
well-suited to extended ageing.
Chemical changes: Evaporation, oxidation, balance
The ageing process includes many different phenomena:
●
●
Substance transfers via:
❍ extraction, diffusion;
❍ evaporation of compounds such as alcohol, water,
acetaldehyde …;
❍ consumption of oxygen.
Chemical changes:
❍ oxidation, with formation of aldehydes;
❍ achievement of equilibrium between ester and acid or aldehyde
and acetal;
❍ reactions between compounds in the eau-de-vie and
compounds extracted from the wood.
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●
●
After extraction,
the eau-de-vie
“digests” the wood
With time, the
taste mellows, the
bouquet becomes
richer and the
colour deepens
Appearance of
« rancio »
Chemical changes:
Evaporation,
oxidation, balance
AGEING XO 12
Influencing factor: Barrel rotation
Initially, the young eaux-de-vie are housed in new
barrels that are rich in extractable compounds
Initially placed in new barrels that are rich in extractable compounds, the
young eau-de-vie will later be transferred to older casks that have already
held several young eaux-de-vie and no longer release any extractable
compounds. These barrels do, however, allow the ageing process to
continue (evaporation, oxidation, etc.).
This operation of transferring the eau-de-vie from one barrel to another
during ageing is called “rotation”.
As time passes, wood influence decreases
As time passes, the extractable potential of the wood changes.
It decreases in quantity, but it also undergoes qualitative changes.
At first, aromatic notes of toasted wood are very present (from toasting during
fabrication of the cask).
Over the years, these soften, giving way to vanilla notes.
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●
●
Initially, the
young eaux-de-vie
are housed in new
barrels that are
rich in extractable
compounds
As time passes,
wood influence
decreases
AGEING XO 13
Influencing factor: Barrel capacity
Capacity determines the volume to surface ratio
●
The size of the casks determines the volume to surface ratio.
The greater the capacity, the higher the ratio, which at equal volumes leads
to slower ageing with, in particular :
● less extraction of the wood’s compounds and
● fewer transfers (evaporation, oxidation, etc.).
The technique called “ullage,” which consists in topping up casks with eaude-vie from the same source, is used to compensate for natural
evaporation, in order to preserve the volume to surface ratio.
Ageing is faster in smaller containers
350 litre barrels are currently the most commonly used for ageing Cognac
eaux-de-vie.
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●
Capacity
determines the
volume to surface
ratio
Ageing is faster in
smaller containers
AGEING XO 14
Influencing factor: Temperature
Moderate variations in temperature are conducive to
proper ageing
In general, the higher the temperature, the faster the ageing process.
This acceleration varies with each stage - extraction, assimilation,
oxidation, evaporation.
Traditionally, Cognac storage facilities are not kept at a constant
temperature, in contrast to underground cellars.
Nevertheless, moderate variations in temperature are conducive to proper
ageing of eaux-de-vie.
Temperature ranges from 7-22°C (45-72°F) on average are considered
reasonable
They are one of the components in a cellar’s suitability for ageing eaux-de-vie.
Oak wood, by its nature, also contributes to this thermal inertia.
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●
Moderate
variations in
temperature are
conducive to
proper ageing
AGEING XO 15
Influencing factor: Moisture level of
the cellars
The relative evaporation of alcohol and water depends on the humidity of
the cellars.
Dry cellars: Drier, more alcoholic eaux-de-vie
In a dry cellar (relative humidity between 40 and 60%), evaporation mainly
affects the volume, with loss of water.
The alcohol content by volume hardly varies.
The resulting eaux-de-vie are drier and have more character.
Humid cellars: Rounder, mellower eaux-de-vie
In a humid cellar (relative moisture level between 90 and 100%),
evaporation mainly affects the alcohol.
Alcohol content can drop noticeably.
Eaux-de-vie aged in humid cellars are described as mellow and round.
In the region, you can find cellars both along the banks of a river and on the
upper floor of a winegrowing estate.
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●
●
Dry cellars: Drier,
more alcoholic
eaux-de-vie
Humid cellars:
Rounder,
mellower eaux-devie
AGEING XO 16
Influencing factor: Alcohol Reduction
The Cognac is progressively reduced to 40% abv. by
adding pure, distilled, or demineralised water
When Cognac is released to market, its minimum alcohol content is 40%
abv.
Young eaux-de-vie, fresh from the still have an alcohol content of 72,4%
abv. at 20°C.
During ageing, evaporation contributes to the progressive reduction of the
alcohol level.
It varies with storage conditions, but averages 2% per year.
In general, however, this natural loss of alcohol is not sufficient. Pure,
distilled, or demineralised water must be added to the eau-de-vie. This
operation, called “reduction”, must be progressive and executed in several
stages.
Alcohol content influences the ageing process. Therefore, some people
prefer eaux-de-vie “reduced” early and then aged.
NOTE
Reduction is not a specific requirement mandated by the AOC. It is possible
to find very old eaux-de-vie that have been reduced solely by natural
evaporation.
ALSO OF INTEREST
●
Details of the appellation in the appendix
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●
The Cognac is
progressively
reduced to 40%
abv. by adding
pure, distilled, or
demineralised
water
AGEING XO 17
AGEING VSOP 09
Evaporation: The angels’ share
Evaporation = concentration
●
As mentioned earlier, a portion of the volume of the eaux-de-vie evaporates
during ageing.
●
Alcohol and water, as the main components of eaux-de-vie, are lost in the
highest quantity. Other volatile compounds evaporate in greater or lesser
proportion. The least volatile compounds become more concentrated.
Evaporation represents about 2% of total inventory, or
the equivalent of 22 million bottles per year
This alcohol evaporation is poetically referred to as “the angels’ share” (“la
part des anges”).
It represents about 2% of total inventory, or the equivalent of about 22
million bottles per year that disappear into thin air: a heavy price that the
producers are happy to pay to reach perfection.
Torula compniacensis feeds on the alcohol vapours
Torula compniacensis feeds on the alcohol vapours .
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●
Evaporation =
concentration
Evaporation
represents about
2% of total
inventory, or the
equivalent of 22
million bottles per
year
Torula
compniacensis
feeds on the
alcohol vapours
AGEING XO 18
AGEING VSOP 10
Paradise
After ageing for decades, the eau-de-vie reaches its
apogee
●
The oldest eaux-de-vie rest in a dark cellar called the “Paradis” - Paradise.
To halt the ageing process, the eau-de-vie is often
transferred into glass demijohns
Once an eau-de-vie has reached maturity, the Cellar Master - also known as
Master Blender - determines to halt the ageing process. He/she transfers
them to glass containers called demijohns, where they will rest protected
from the air for many decades without developing further.
Indeed, the ageing process no longer operates in glass.
Left to age too long, the quality of the eau-de-vie could be compromised.
It is the Cellar Master’s responsibility to decide when it is time to halt the
ageing of an eau-de-vie, as each spirit has its own maturation
characteristics (cru and ageing method).
An eau-de-vie is considered at its apogee after about 50-60 years of ageing.
However, eaux-de-vie that have been left much longer in oak casks (up to 100 years at
times) can be used in very small quantity in blending to provide the special touch that
makes the most prestigious Cognacs.
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●
After ageing for
decades, the eaude-vie reaches its
apogee
To halt the ageing
process, the eaude-vie is often
transferred into
glass demijohns
BLENDING XO 01
BLENDING VSOP 01
BLENDING VS 01
A subtle marriage for a quality Cognac
The Master Blender:
A central role in a Cognac house
●
The “Master Blender (or Cellar Master) plays a central role in a Cognac
house.
●
It is he/she who, working with his/her team, selects and purchases eaux-devie from the winegrowers and oversees them throughout the ageing process.
As soon as the eaux-de-vie are put into barrel, the Cellar Master determines
which will be destined for young Cognac and which are suitable for longer
ageing.
Finally, it is he/she who will create, in the utmost secret, the blends that
make up the signature of each brand.
The blender’s art: A constant quest for harmony and
consistency
Combining rigour, experience and intuition, the Master Blender (much like
the “nose” of a perfume house) creates subtle blends of eaux-de-vie of
different ages and crus that will enable the product to conserve not only its
full character but also the loyalty of the clientele over the years.
It can not be stressed enough how essential the human factor is in the
quality of a bottle of Cognac.
Like distillation, blending is an art - and the perfection of Art is to conceal
Art.
Each Cognac is unique
No Cognac is like any other. Indeed, by subtly blending various flavours,
each Cellar Master strives to create a Cognac capable of seducing scores of
enthusiasts.
The result of this delicate operation could be a Cognac with fruity, spicy,
floral, or toasty notes, or notes of rancio for the oldest blends.
NOTE
Blending is an age-old tradition, not a rule imposed in the conditions of the
Cognac Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée.
BLENDING XO 01 page 1/2
ALSO OF INTEREST
●
The Master
Blender:
A central role in a
Cognac house
The blender’s art:
A constant quest
for harmony and
consistency
Each Cognac is
unique
●
“Vintage Cognacs” Section
BLENDING XO 01 page 2/2
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BLENDING XO 02
BLENDING VSOP 02
BLENDING VS 02
Work of the Cellar Master
Clarification at the end of the video:
Once blended, the eaux-de-vie are stored in large capacity oak blending vats (50 to 300
hl) for a period of time
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BLENDING XO 03
BLENDING VSOP 03
Sales and marketing regulations
Cognac released to market must comply with strict
rules
Cognac released to market must comply with strict rules.
●
●
●
●
Wine spirits for direct human consumption are aged in wooden
receptacles for at least two years in the region of production (details on the
following screen);
Minimum alcohol content: 40% abv.;
Addition of alcohol is prohibited (as opposed to brandy);
Respect of traditional production methods (in addition to vinification and
distillation methods) as set down in the specifications for the AOC Cognac.
ALSO OF INTEREST
●
●
●
●
Details of the appellation in the appendix
Specifications for the Cognac appellation in the media library
The “official texts” section in the media library
The “Understanding a Cognac label” section
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●
Cognac released
to market must
comply with strict
rules
BLENDING XO 04
BLENDING VSOP 04
“Comptes”: Cognac ageing system
All Cognac for direct human consumption must be aged
for a minimum of 2 years in oak casks
Cognac for direct human consumption is aged in oak casks for at least two
years in the region of production. (compte 2).
Inventory and age control are performed by the Bureau National
Interprofessionnel du Cognac (BNIC). (Executive order of July 2003)
The age of any Cognac is taken to be its age at the time of bottling as, unlike
wine, alcohol produced by distillation does not mature in bottle.
Ageing indications refer to the age of the youngest eaude-vie in the blend
This graph indicates the minimum time in oak of the youngest eau-de-vie
used in creating the blend. It is not the age of the Cognac in the bottle.
Compte “0” begins on April 1 of the year following the harvest.
A decision of the Government Commissioner to the BNIC (1983 decision) codified the
designations to be used, based on the age of the Cognacs making up the blends.
ALSO OF INTEREST
●
●
2003 executive order in the media library
1983 decision in the media library
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●
●
All Cognac for
direct human
consumption must
be aged for a
minimum of 2
years in oak casks
Ageing indications
refer to the age of
the youngest eaude-vie in the blend
BLENDING XO 05
BLENDING VSOP 05
BLENDING VS 03
Understanding a Cognac label
Lead the demonstration. Additional information to mention during or after the
demonstration, if desired:
1/ A Cognac can be identified by the information on its label
This can be
●
mandatory
●
optional, but regulated
●
optional, but they must be justifiable
As regulations are updated regularly, we advise you also to refer to the
“How to read a label” page on our website, www.cognac.fr – click on hyperlink in media
library.
2/The appellation Cognac, Eau-de-vie de Cognac, or Eau-de-vie des
Charentes must be stated on the label
This is the denomination under which it is sold.
3/ AOC wine spirits can use the word “Fine”
This term provides no additional information (with the exception of Fine Champagne,
which will be explained later), except that it can only be used for Appellation Contrôlée
eaux-de-vie made from wine or cider.
4/ Cognac is traditionally created by blending eaux-de-vie of different ages
and crus
This is not, however, mandatory.
5/ 100% of the eaux-de-vie in a blend must come from the cru indicated on
the label
When 100% of the eaux-de-vie in a blend comes from a single cru (regional appellation),
the cru can be indicated according to the following rule:
“For the names of regional appellations (crus), place the word Cognac then the name of
the cru between the words “Appellation” and “Contrôlée”. Example: “Appellation Cognac
Petite Champagne Contrôlée”.
6/ “Appellation Cognac Fine Champagne Contrôlée” : Eaux-de-vie sourced
exclusively from Grande Champagne (minimum 50%) and Petite
Champagne
7/Ageing designations are based on the age of the youngest eau-de-vie in
the blend. Cognac may not be released to market without being aged in
cask for at least 2 years, calculated from April 1 of the year following the harvest.
BLENDING XO, VSOP, VS 05 page 1/2
8/Ageing designations
- mentions or initials such as VS, VSOP, XO.….,
- vintages
NB.:
The age of an eau-de-vie corresponds to the period during which it has matured in oak
casks. In contrast to wine, eau-de-vie virtually ceases to age as soon as it is transferred
to a glass container. A Cognac will always be the same age it was when bottled.
Ageing designations are optional indications, regulated in application of European
Community legislation:.
●
●
●
*** (3-star) or VS (Very Special): The youngest eau-de-vie in the blend is
at least 2 years old (compte 2)
VSOP (Very Superior Old Pale): The youngest eau-de-vie in the blend is
at least 4 years old (compte 4)
Napoléon, XO (Extra Old)**, Extra**, Hors d’âge**: The youngest eaude-vie in the blend is at least 6 years old (compte 6)
** As of 2016 these designations are expected to require compte 10 for the younger eaude-vie
9/ In general, each Cognac house uses eaux-de-vie much older than the
minimum requirement in their blends. Those bearing the most prestigious
designations may have aged for decades.
A ruling of the Government Commissioner to the BNIC (1983 decision) codifies the
designations to be used based on the age of the Cognacs that make up a blend.
BLENDING XO 05, VSOP 05, VS 03 page 2/2
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BLENDING XO 06
BLENDING VSOP 06
Vintage Cognacs
Vintages: Eaux-de-vie from the same harvest year
All vintage Cognacs indicate on the label the harvest year of the grapes that
went into the Cognac.
In the Cognac Delimited Region, eaux-de-vie specifically being matured for
vintage Cognacs are generally aged in sealed casks or in separate vintage
warehouses. A vintage warehouse is locked with double keys: one that
remains with the owner and the other entrusted to the BNIC.
Vintage eaux-de-vie must be monitored extremely rigorously, to
authenticate the age of Cognacs marketed as vintage.
Since blending is a key cultural element of Cognac’s identity, vintage
Cognacs are not very common.
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●
Vintages:
Eaux-de-vie from
the same harvest
year
TASTING & ENJOYING COGNAC XO 01
TASTING & ENJOYING COGNAC VSOP 01
The art of tasting Cognac
Awaken your senses…
●
Tasting a Cognac begins with choosing a glass that will let the spirit express
its full personality.
The preferred choice is a “tulip” glass, whose shape has been studied and
recommended by experts. The benefit of this type of glass is that it retains
the aromas and reveals them with great delicacy throughout the tasting.
For the best tasting experience, make sure the Cognac is at room
temperature.
●
●
Awaken your
senses…
Visual examination
Cognac can
display a
multitude of
different hues
●
On the nose
Visual examination
●
On the palate
Read the comments at the end of the video
●
This is the first contact with the Cognac and it is paramount:
Fill the glass with about 1 fluid ounce of Cognac. Hold the glass by the foot
so you can swirl the Cognac easily, slowly and gently.
Raise the glass to eye level, if possible against a white background, to
examine its color and appearance.
Still holding the foot, gently tilt the glass to examine its intensity, while
admiring the brilliance of the surface of the spirit. Tilting the glass makes
the Cognac “cry”, its tears running slowly down the side of the glass.
You can now describe the Cognac’s colour, clarity and viscosity.
●
Its clarity (quality of being clear, pure, transparent) can be characterised as
crystalline, clear, dull, or cloudy.
●
Its viscosity (thickness of a liquid) can be described as watery, syrupy, or oily.
Cognac can display a multitude of different hues
Cognac can display a multitude of different hues.
Depending on its age, the kind of oak used, etc.
TASTING & ENJOYING XO 01, VSOP 01 page 1/2
Tasting is a tool
used at all stages
in the production
of Cognac
On the nose
Read the comments at the end of the video
There are two ways of perceiving aromas: directly through the nose, or
indirectly through the mouth (retro-olfaction).
Smelling the Cognac is the most important stage of the tasting. It is a twostep process.
●
●
First nose: Without moving the glass, you can discern the highly volatile
elements that are often extremely delicate and always fleeting. This is
called the montant”.
Second nose: Swirl the glass very gently to aerate the Cognac. The
contact with oxygen reveals its aromatic components.
Here you will encounter floral or fruity aromas such as linden flower,
grapevine flower, dry vines, freshly crushed grapes, violets, vanilla…
The specific shape of the tulip glass maximises the olfactory experience.
On the palate
Read the comments at the end of the video
It is on the tongue and the palate that Cognac reveals its full identity.
Take a sip and suck in a little air over the Cognac in your mouth.
This brings the Cognac into contact with most of the taste receptors in the mouth. The
ambient heat will also cause it to release aromatic vapors that will reach the olfactive bulb
via the retronasal passage.
This is the moment when all the aspects of the spirit’s personality become
apparent: is it round, mellow, smooth? Does it have finesse, delicacy,
breed, rancio, balance…?
NOTE
The tongue is a sensory organ that can detect sweet (on the tip of the tongue), salty
(along the sides towards the back), sour (on the sides) and bitter (at the back).
Tasting is a tool used at all stages in the production of
Cognac
While the enthusiast tastes Cognac for pleasure, professionals also use
tasting as a tool in their craft.
In combination with analyses, it is the most reliable method for evaluating
and offering consumers products of impeccable quality.
Using this sensory examination, producers can control the different stages of distillation,
follow the changes that take place during ageing, create the blends necessary to produce
Cognac and, finally, evaluate the characteristics of the final product to be released.
TASTING & ENJOYING XO 01, VSOP 01 page 2/2
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TASTING & ENJOYING COGNAC XO 02
TASTING & ENJOYING COGNAC VSOP 02
The main aromatic characteristics of
Cognac
Fruity notes
●
Fruity notes
Fruity notes vary with the Cognac’s degree of maturation. Younger eaux-devie reveal notes of apricot, peach, or pear, while 10-year-old spirits will
offer almond, hazelnut, or walnut notes.
●
Floral notes
●
Woody notes
●
Spicy notes
●
Rancio
After 20 years, muscat, cherry and orange notes dominate; after 40,
coconut and passion fruit.
Floral notes
Rose, violet and daisy are the primary aromas of a young eau-de-vie. Iris,
lilac and wild carnation characterise 10-year-old eaux-de-vie. After 20
years, orange blossom, jasmine and honeysuckle take centre stage.
Young eaux-de-vie are scented with oak and vanilla. After 15 years, these
change to chocolate, incense, or leather. 30-year-old eaux-de-vie are
marked by aromas of sandalwood, cedar wood and cigar box notes.
Spicy notes
15-year-old eaux-de-vie reveal notes of ginger, cinnamon and curry. Hints
of saffron come out after 20 years and 30-year-old spirits give off balsam
and nutmeg aromas.
Rancio
Rancio is characterised by notes of mushrooms, damp undergrowth and
walnut oil - complex and specific aromas that develop during the long
barrel ageing and increase in intensity with the years.
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TASTING & ENJOYING COGNAC XO 03
TASTING & ENJOYING COGNAC VSOP 03
TASTING & ENJOYING COGNAC VS 01
Enjoying Cognac
The traditional way: In a snifter or tulip glass
At the end of a meal, serve an old Cognac (Napoléon, XO, Extra) in a snifter
or tulip glass.
Take your time to appreciate all the richness of its aromas and its subtle
flavours.
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●
The traditional
way: In a snifter
or tulip glass
TASTING & ENJOYING COGNAC XO 04
TASTING & ENJOYING COGNAC VSOP 04
TASTING & ENJOYING COGNAC VS 02
Enjoying Cognac
Contemporary and cosmopolitan
●
70% of consumption worldwide is on the rocks, in longdrinks or cocktails
●
Choose a younger Cognac and let it surprise you!
Around the world, Cognac is most often enjoyed mixed with water, on the
rocks, long drinks or cocktails.
The United States and China are particularly fond of these combinations
and Cognac can be served as a summer afternoon long drink and even as
the main drink with a good meal, all in the same day.
Classic and up-to-the-minute cocktails alike take on an extra dimension,
when you add the fullness and vibrancy of a VS *** Cognac or the maturity
of a VSOP.
ALSO OF INTEREST
●
●
Suggestions for cocktails, long drinks and more…
Cooking with Cognac… recipes in the media library
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●
Contemporary and
cosmopolitan
70% of
consumption
worldwide is on
the rocks, in longdrinks or cocktails
Choose a younger
Cognac and let it
surprise you!
TASTING & ENJOYING COGNAC XO 05
TASTING & ENJOYING COGNAC VSOP 05
TASTING & ENJOYING COGNAC VS 03
Cognac, enjoyed around the world
Optional comments at the end of the video
Some general information on Cognac markets:
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The foreign market share accounts for more than 90% (96% in 2008).
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The main shipping zones are: Europe, NAFTA (Canada, USA, Mexico) and Asia.
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Number one market: USA.
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The top European market is the UK, followed by Germany and then France.
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Several markets experiencing strong growth have appeared in recent years, in particular
China and Russia. These two countries joined the top 10 in 2004 and 2003, respectively.
If you would like further information on this subject, please consult the most upto-date data on our website www.cognac.fr => Facts & Figures => Economy.
Direct access in the media library.
© January 2009 Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac AFAQ
ISO 9001 v2000 - www.cognac.fr
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AOC COGNAC ANNEXE
THE COGNAC APPELLATION D'ORIGINE CONTRÔLÉE Appendix
The conditions for making Cognac are explained in various sections. This fact sheet details the rules and regulations that
must be respected for a Cognac to be entitled to is appellation contrôlée. Please save it. It will help you to complement
your presentation by referring to official texts for each chapter.
Name of the appellation
Geographic name
The only products allowed to use the appellation d'origine contrôlée “Cognac”, “Eau-de-vie de
Cognac”, or “Eau-de-vie des Charentes”, as initially defined in the French decrees dated 1st May
1909 and 15th May 1936, are spirits distilled from wine that meet the following special conditions:
Complementary geographical denominations
The “Cognac” appellation contrôlée can be completed by the following complementary
geographical denominations:
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Grande Fine Champagne
Grande Champagne
Petite Fine Champagne
Petite Champagne
Fine Champagne
Borderies
Fins Bois
Bons Bois
Description of the alcoholic beverage
Spirit category
According to EU regulation 110/2008: wine spirit (eau-de-vie de vin).
Wine spirit is an alcoholic beverage:
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that is obtained exclusively by distilling wine or fortified wine to less than 86% alcohol by volume or by
redistilling a wine distillate to a level of less than 86% alcohol by volume,
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whose volatile substance content is equal or superior to 125 grams per hectolitre of 100% alcohol by volume,
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whose maximum methanol content is 200 grams per hectolitre of 100% alcohol by volume,
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whose minimum alcohol content by volume is 37.5 %,
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that does not contain any additional alcohol as defined in Schedule I, point 5, whether diluted or undiluted,
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that cannot be flavoured. This does not exclude traditional production methods,
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which cannot contain any additive other than caramel for colouring purposes,
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which can continue to be sold under the denomination “wine spirit” if aged for a length of time at least equal
to that defined for spirits in category 5.
Cognac belongs to the category of wine spirits subject to restricted controlled
production methods:
L'AOC Cognac - Annexe page 1/5
Ageing methods
The Cognac appellation d'origine contrôlée is restricted to aged spirits distilled from wine, except
for those that may not be aged because they are destined for industrial use or compound products.
Main physical, chemical and organoleptic characteristics
The wine spirits (eaux-de-vie) must have a volatile substance content equal to or greater than
125 g per hectolitre of 100% alcohol and a minimum alcohol content by volume of 40% at the
time of sale.
Definition of the Cognac production area
Geographic origin
The only products allowed to use the appellation d'origine contrôlée “Cognac”, “Eau-de-vie de
Cognac”, or “Eau-de-vie des Charentes” are wine spirits made from grapes harvested, fermented
and distilled in communes first delimited in a decree dated 1st May 1909 and later modified. The
Cognac region includes:
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almost the entire Charente-Maritime department
a large part of the Charente department
several communes in the Deux-Sèvres and Dordogne departments.
A complete list of communes is available in the media library
Complementary geographic denominations
The Cognac appellation d'origine contrôlée may be completed by the complementary geographic
denominations “Grande Fine Champagne” or “Grande Champagne”, “Petite Fine Champagne” or
“Petite Champagne”, “Borderies”, “Fins Bois”, “Bons Bois”, in which case they must comply with
the conditions set out here below and be produced only from grapes harvested in each of the
above areas as first defined by a decree dated 13th January 1938 and on the understanding that
wine production from these grapes, as well as the distillation of this wine, must take place within
the bounds of the Cognac region as defined in the decree dated 1st May 1909, since modified.
A complete list of communes is available in the media library
The Cognac appellation d'origine contrôlée can be completed by the denominations “Bois
Ordinaires” or “Bois à Terroirs”. These are used for wine spirits from non-delimited areas within
the geographic regions defined above.
NB.: FINE CHAMPAGNE
The Cognac Fine Champagne appellation contrôlée can only be used for a blend of wine spirits
that come from the complementary geographical denominations “Grande Champagne” and
“Petite Champagne”, with at least 50% from “Grande Champagne”.
L'AOC Cognac - Annexe page 2/5
Description of production methods
Grape varities
The white wines used to make wine spirit are made from the following grape varieties:
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Colombard B ;
Folle blanche B ;
Montils B ;
Ugni blanc B ;
Sémillon B;
Folignan B (no more than 10% of total grape varieties)
Viticulture
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Vine density
Minimum of 2,200 vines per hectare;
Spacing
Maximum 3.5 metres between vine rows;
Pruning
Pruning is mandatory every year. All methods are authorised;
Number of fruit buds per hectare
The number of fruit buds is limited to 80,000 per hectare;
First authorised crop of young vines
To be entitled to the appellation d'origine contrôlée “Cognac”, wines distilled to make
wine spirits must be produced from vines no younger than two years after the year in
which they were planted, which must be before the 31st of July.
Harvesting, moving and storing grapes
The use of centrifugal vane-type pumps is forbidden to move grapes.
Analytical criteria for grapes prior to fermentation, or for the product
to be distilled
At the time they are to be distilled, wines must have a minimum alcoholic degree of 7% and a
maximum alcoholic degree of 12%. Their volatile acidity content must be equal to or less than
12.25 milliequivalents per litre.
Yields
The maximum authorised annual yield of wine spirit expressed in pure alcohol is set each year by
interministerial decree, based on proposals submitted by the relevant National Comité, after
consulting with the organisme de défense et de gestion (body that manages and protects the
appellation). This maximum yield can be no greater than 16 hectolitres of pure alcohol per
hectare. The maximum annual yield can be increased, in certain instances, by a certain volume.
However, any quantity that exceeds the 16 hectolitres per hectare limit cannot be aged. Yields in
excess of the authorised annual yield are not entitled to the Cognac appellation. They are to be
processed according to article D.664 of the rural code.
Producing grape must
The use of a winepress with an Archimedes screw, otherwise known as a continuous press, is
forbidden.
L'AOC Cognac - Annexe page 3/5
Fermentation
The addition of sugar by any means is forbidden.
The use of sulphur dioxide is forbidden during fermentation.
Distillation
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Distillation period
Double distillation must be completed no later than 31 March of the year following the
vintage.
Distillation procedure
- Distillation principle: discontinuous double distillation. Only spirits obtained from the
double distillation of wines from the most recent vintage are entitled to the appellation
d'origine contrôlée “Cognac”.
- Description of equipment: Composition of the “Charentais” still: a boiler heated over an
open flame, a head just above and a swan's neck condenser, without or without a preheater and a tank with a cooling coil.
- Size of the boiler: the total capacity must not exceed 30 hl ( with a 5% tolerance) and the
volume is limited to 25 hl (with a 5% tolerance) per distillation.
However, boilers of greater capacity (up to 140 hl for a maximum of 120 hl of liquid, with
a tolerance of 5%) are allowed on condition that they are used exclusively for the
première chauffe (first distillation) in order to obtain a brouillis, or initial distillate.
- Parts of the pot still are required to be made of copper: the boiler, the head, the swan's
neck and the coil.
- Form of heating: over an open flame
- Maximum alcohol content by volume after distillation: after double distillation, the
alcoholic degree of the wine spirit in the recipient which collects the wine spirit every day
must not exceed 72.4% abv. at 20°C.
- Distillation when changing from one cru* to another: before stopping the distillation of
wine from one cru and changing over to another, the last wine spirit from the second
distillation of the first cru is limited to a maximum of 30% of the still's capacity.
The flegmes** from this second distillation of the first cru may be diluted in the
subsequent cru either by incorporation into the brouillis, or by re-distillation with the
wine from the second cru, so long as they do not constitute more than 8% abv..
*The word “cru” refers to geographic sub-divisions of the Cognac appellation as defined in point C-2 of
specifications for the appellation (please see: Definition of geographic regions => Complementary
geographic denominations).
**The word “flegmes” (encompassing “heads”, “tails” and “seconds”) describes the distillate from the
beginning and end of the distillation process which is not allowed to be sold under the name of Cognac.
Ageing
Wine spirits for direct human consumption are aged in wooden receptacles for at least two years
in the region of production (as per a modified 2003 decree abrogating the law dated 20 February 1946).
This is monitored by the Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac (BNIC) in application of
the French tax code (article 302 G and the modified decree of 27 July 2003).
The wood used for ageing, in keeping with longstanding local use, is peduncular or sessile oak
such as that from the Tronçais and Limousin forests.
Traditional methods
Colouring (as allowed in the EU definition of wine spirits), the addition of oak chip infusions, as well as
rounding by the use of products defined in point 3 of schedule 1 of EU regulation no. 110/2008
dated 15 January 2008, are authorised, so long as their effect on the wine spirit is less than or
equal to 4° obscuration. Obscuration, expressed in degrees, is obtained by measuring the difference between
the alcoholic strength by volume and the real alcoholic strength.
L'AOC Cognac - Annexe page 4/5
Labelling regulations
The name Cognac can be used without the words appellation contrôlée if it is not associated with
any other geographical complementary denomination.
Obligatory declarations
Déclaration annuelle d'affectation (Annual declaration of utilization)
Details can be found in the specifications for the Cognac appellation.
Déclaration de revendication (Declaration of appellation contrôlée
production)
Details can be found in the specifications for the Cognac appellation.
Keeping a register
The production of wine spirit can be monitored at any time by consulting the operator's
distillation register.
Transitional measures
In light of the developments in regulations, transitional measures have been taken concerning
grape varieties, viticulture (vine density, spacing between rows) and minimum ageing in the
Cognac region (please see the specifications for details).
NB. :
Only the official decree confirming the specifications for the Cognac appellation contrôlée can be
considered valid. These are available on our Website www.cognac.fr.
ALSO OF INTEREST
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Specifications for the Cognac appellation in the media library
The “official texts” section in the media library
The “Understanding a Cognac label” section
L'AOC Cognac - Annexe page 5/5
© January 2009 Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac
AFAQ ISO 9001 v2000 - www.cognac.fr
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