Birding Moosehead - The Lodge at Moosehead Lake

BIRDING MOOSEHEAD
©Robert S. Duchesne, July 2004
Moosehead Lake is Maine’s largest lake. In spite of its size and cool,
clear water, much of the lake shore is undeveloped. Many of the
nearby lakes and ponds are equally remote and pristine. The area is
famous for its large moose population and Greenville is home to the
Moosemania Festival every spring.
The region boasts scenic mountains and rushing rivers. It
is heavily
glaciated and waterlogged, with rich, forest soils and barren, gravel
eskers existing side by side. As a result, there is a great variety of wildlife
habitats over a relatively small area. Beech and birch predominate.
Spruce, balsam fir and pines take over in the cooler, damper areas. The latter areas are home to Maine’s boreal bird specialties:
spruce grouse, black-backed woodpecker, Canada jay, and boreal chickadee. White-winged crossbills can often be found yearround. At least twenty species of warbler breed here. Bicknell’s thrush occurs on area peaks above 3,000 feet.
Most of the surrounding land is part of Maine’s privately owned working forest and the area is crisscrossed by logging roads,
many in poor condition. Unless you are sure of your route and landowner permission, it is best to explore the areas we list here
as part of the Maine Birding Trail. Even the condition of the recommended roads can vary depending on how recently rain
or maintenance has occurred. North of Moosehead Lake and east of Greenville, lands managed by the North Maine Woods
Association offer deeper penetration into Maine’s working forest. Though there is a gate fee for entrance, there is also a lot
of information and maps at the gate for those who seek a near wilderness experience. All dirt roads in this vast expanse of
woodlands look very much alike. Do not plan to venture into the North Maine Woods without adequate maps and a full tank of
gas. Cell phones seldom, if ever, work in this area.
Moose are widespread throughout Maine but there are few places where they are seen more often than in
the Moosehead area. Invariably they are a thrill to see but remember that they also can be a real hazard to
traffic. In the spring they seek roadside shoulders for winter salt and relief from pests. Moose show little sense
about traffic and often wander dangerously onto the road. Furthermore, their eyes are less apt to reflect light
than those of deer and their dark coloration can make them nearly invisible at night. Though moose can be
encountered at any time of day, they are most often found near dawn and dusk. Maine also has the largest
population of black bears east of the Mississippi and encounters with eastern coyotes are an even more regular occurrence.
Beavers can be seen in every small and slow-moving body of water and they generally become active and visible in the late
afternoon. Otters are common in shallow, slow moving waters, particularly Shirley Bog. From about the third week of May until
late June, black flies can be a nuisance during a day of birding. However, they are one reason the area is so rich in songbirds and
it is the best season for locating a big variety. Furthermore, the insects are a manageable problem. Bird the dawn chorus before
the insects accumulate. For the rest of the day, long sleeves, hoods and hats, and judicious use of repellents discourage most
black flies and mosquitoes.
The road from Newport to Dover-Foxcroft to Greenville is known locally as “The Moosehead Trail.” It begins at the Interstate
95 exit in Newport, continuing along Route 7 through Dexter to Dover-Foxcroft, and then west along Route 15 to Greenville.
The Maine Birding Trail - Greenville Gateway begins in Dover-Foxcroft and continues through the towns of Guilford, Abbot
and Monson, each with its own opportunities. Maine Audubon’s Borestone Mountain in Elliotsville is noteworthy.
Go Wild!
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1
Chesuncook
Lake
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Moosehead
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Peaks-Kenny State
Park. The park itself offers a
pleasant swimming beach and
the likelihood of viewing loons
offshore. However, the access
road before the entrance booth
traverses a long stretch of
mixed hardwoods. In breeding
season, it can provide a wide
variety of warblers. Walk or
drive the road slowly, listening
to sort out the various songs.
Turn around before the booth,
or enter and spend a pleasant
day.
Directions: From the center of
Dover-Foxcroft, turn north on
Route 153. Proceed 4.5 miles to
Sebec Lake and follow the signs left
to the park.
2 Abbot claims fame as the
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first community in Maine’s
alphabetical order. But a
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convenient little side trip yields
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a nice dividend here. In the
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center of town there is an
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intersection where Route 16
veers west toward Bingham.
Instead, take the Back Road
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east. Within .2 miles you will
come to an iron bridge that
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crosses the Piscataquis River.
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The white pines on the near
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side of the bridge and the
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underbrush on the far side
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offer a lot of riparian variety
in a tiny area. Multiple species
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of warblers are found here. At
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a half-mile, stop and examine
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the farm fields. Bobolinks and
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eastern meadowlarks thrive
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here. There are gravel pits on
your right, so bank swallows
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join the hundreds of tree and
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barn swallows that hawk over
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these fields. Listen for their
peculiar buzzing vocalization. At the end of the field, where the road comes to a T intersection, turn right and drive another 2.7
miles. At this point a small stream has formed a shallow pond on the left just before it passes through the culverts under the road
and into the Piscataquis River on the right. Scan the pond for ducks and the adjacent field edges for brown thrashers. They are
an uncommon breeder in northern Maine.
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3 The Appalachian Trail runs close to Monson and you’ll notice a few establishments offering services to hikers. Here, too,
is another opportunity to venture slightly out of your way. Coming from the south, just before you enter town, turn sharply
left onto the Blanchard Road. In half a mile you’ll encounter a beach and boat landing on Lake Hebron. Common loons will
usually be obvious, but it will take good binoculars or a spotting scope to check for wood ducks and spotted sandpipers that
sometimes favor the distant shoreline on the right. Continue another half mile (one full mile from Route 15) until you come to
a beaver flowage on the right. Northern waterthrush are present in this wetland, though it helps when they are singing. They are
notoriously reluctant to respond to “spishing.” A few of the more common warblers will also be about, and the mature trees
just up the road harbor scarlet tanagers. Just over 2 more miles ahead, 3.2 miles from Route 15, there is an even larger beaver
flowage that will be on your left, with a small pond barely visible through the stumps. Not only does this offer another crack at
the northern waterthrush, but also it’s a good opportunity for hooded mergansers. Olive-sided flycatchers are sometimes found
here.
4 Elliotsville Road: The road into the Borestone Mountain Maine Audubon Sanctuary deserves attention along the way.
Just north of Monson center, turn right onto the Elliotsville Road. The first two miles will pass through light woods and small
homesteads. Some homes have bird feeders that entice finches. At 5 miles, large fields conceal bobolinks and Savannah sparrows.
Just beyond, you’ll enter a section of mature maples and hardwoods that are often full of warblers. From here to the Wilson
Stream, black-throated green, black-throated blue, magnolia, northern parula, and black & white warblers are common. So are
blue-headed and red-eyed vireos.
After 7.5 miles, on the approach to the bridge at Wilson Stream, slow down for the view and for the barn swallows
that nest under it. Turn left over the bridge and continue toward Borestone. In another mile, stop and spend a few minutes at
the railroad tracks. The trees are full of red-eyed vireos and with a little more patience you’ll locate the scarlet tanagers that nest
here. The openness of the rail junction combined with the surrounding woods and the slopes provides enough habitat diversity
to guarantee other birds around, too. It’s not unusual for sharp-shinned hawks to cruise the rail line. This is a main track of the
Canadian Pacific Railway, so beware of trains.
5
Borestone Mountain: Parking is at the base of the mountain. The lot fills early on nice
days so you may have to join the others parked along the roadside. This mountain is a local
favorite for family hikers. Two-thirds of the hike is along an easy dirt road, though a new
hiking trail added in 2003 is now preferred. Even before leaving the parking lot you may
glimpse the American redstarts that work the low trees and shrubs along the road. Because
Borestone has been protected for over 100 years, the mature hardwoods that envelope the
first third of the trail are particularly good for canopy birds such as red-eyed vireos, scarlet
tanagers, blackburnian warblers and northern parula. The vegetation changes gradually as
you ascend, leaving behind the maples and embracing birches and beeches. Here, blueheaded vireos, magnolia, black-throated blue, and black-throated green warblers quickly
become commonplace and you have a good chance for ruby-crowned kinglets. Then, as the
hardwoods mix with stands of evergreens (mostly red spruce), more hermit thrushes, goldencrowned kinglets, and winter wrens become noticeable. The usual chickadees, nuthatches
and woodpeckers are always around.
The trail plateaus as you approach the visitor’s center. The thicker, evergreen
forestation becomes home to Canada warblers and it’s a good place to hope for a northern
goshawk. In winter, during irruptive years, an astounding number of white-winged crossbills
can be heard chattering throughout this section.
Two thirds of the way up the mountain you will come to the Audubon Visitor’s
Center adjacent to one of the three mountain ponds. The three ponds are delightfully known
as Sunrise Pond on the near right, Sunset Pond out of sight on the distant left, and, of course,
Midday Pond in the middle. The water in these ponds is so clear it is possible to see 50 feet
below the surface! There may be a few ducks around but the harsh climate supports very
little life in the ponds, so the number is fewer than you’d imagine. At the visitor’s center, feel
free to make an extra donation. It has always been an Audubon challenge to maintain this
incredible facility! Through the early nineties, the nearby cliffs were a favored hack site for
re-introduction of Peregrine falcons. Many of the falcons that fledged here went off to urban
skyscrapers and bridges from Portland, Maine, to Baltimore, Maryland.
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Mountain
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To ascend the rest of the mountain, follow the trail around the Visitor Center. Don’t let the common yellowthroats lure
you into the poison ivy that proliferates next to the small stream. The ascent is strenuous and will require some clambering over
boulders, but the view is spectacular, especially in foliage season. Aside from more winter wrens, hermit thrushes, and whitethroated sparrows, the birding is ordinary to the summit, but you never know what hawks may fly by at eye level. The 360-degree
views from the summit make the hike worthwhile.
Directions: Just after passing through Monson, bear right onto the Elliotsville Road. Follow 7.5 miles to Big Wilson Stream Bridge. Turn left at
intersection and follow signs another mile to Borestone parking lot.
6
Shirley: 4.5 miles from Monson to Shirley on Route 15 you will pass over Spectacle Pond. Enjoy the common loons that
are usually visible from this bridge. Then continue another two miles, looking for a left onto the Lower Shirley Corner Road.
Follow it three miles to a pond directly on the edge of Shirley Mills. Pull over at the picnic table and scout the pond. Common
loons are certain. Other ducks are possible. It is possible to launch a canoe in the pond for a pleasant paddle. At this intersection,
there are three directions from which to choose. Ignore the dirt road to the south. The road to the left takes you to West Shirley
Bog. (The dirt road skirting the right side of the pond is the B&A Railroad Bed North Road to Greenville.)
It is 3.4 miles to West Shirley Bog. The first mile is paved. The remaining dirt road is often rough. Ignore any side roads,
slow for all moose watching opportunities, and continue until you reach the outflow of the bog. Settle on the bank and observe.
Wilson’s snipe are often active. American bitterns are everywhere. If there is any mud around the edge of the pond, look for
greater yellowlegs and even a solitary sandpiper. Spotted sandpipers frequently wobble-wing from rock to rock. Watch over the
far side of the marsh for a northern harrier. Look far down the marsh for Canada geese and potentially common mergansers,
black ducks and blue-winged teal. Become aware of the variety of warblers around. The streamside aspens contain magnolia
warblers and potentially Wilson’s. American redstarts are in the low branches of the woods; black-throated green warblers are in
the higher branches. Common yellowthroats and yellow-rumped warblers are likely. A Canada warbler turns up now and then.
At all times be on the lookout for gray jays. They frequent the spot with the intention of robbing from campers and fishermen.
In all water conditions except frozen, this is a lovely paddle. Besides waterfowl and moose, it is a haven for beaver and otters.
B&A Railroad
Bed North
Road to
Greenville
Shirley Pond
Shirley
West Shirley Bog
To
Route
15
g
hirley Bo
S
To West
7 B&A Railroad Bed North Road (AKA the Shirley Bog Road): In the winter, this road is ITS 85, a snowmobile trail that is part
of Maine’s Interconnected Trail System (ITS). So in spring and summer it can be a little rough. Nevertheless, sportsmen and local
campers use it heavily. This road is some of the best boreal habitat in the entire region. Boreal chickadees are fairly common if
you’re attentive to their asthmatic chickadee call. The olive-sided flycatcher’s “Quick, Three Beers” can be heard many mornings.
Gray jays are present but not seen every time. Spruce grouse and black-backed woodpeckers are present but scarce. At any time
the road passes by a deep section of the stream on the left, look for black ducks and common mergansers. Set your trip meter
to zero as you are leaving Shirley. There are a lot of unobvious hot spots.
(A) At 0.0, even before you leave the intersection in Shirley, take a look in the wet area on
Greenville
the right side of the road. Red-winged blackbirds and grackles are all about. Black and wood
ducks often hide in the back. In May, it’s an excellent place for solitary sandpipers. Common
yellowthroats are abundant. Baltimore orioles nest in the tall trees behind the wetland.
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(B)
At 3.0 miles the river will become visible on your left. If the alders aren’t blocking the
view, it’s a great place for common mergansers, black ducks and blue-winged teal. It’s also a
great place for otters. This view will repeat itself several times over the next mile and the rules
remain the same.
(C)
At 4.0 miles, the bog opens up a bit. Anytime you get this view, northern harriers are
possible.
(D) At 5.3 miles
there is a stream or pond on your right, depending on how wet the year has
been. In wet years, ducks are hiding in the back and Wilson’s snipe are working the margins.
In any year, it’s a good place for warblers and flycatchers. After this point, you are deeply
into some of the best ruby-crowned kinglet territory in Maine and the chances for boreal
chickadees improve.
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F
(E) At 5.7 miles
the bog on the left and all puddles of standing water offer some of the best
places to look for solitary sandpipers.
(F)
At 6.2 miles there is a pond hidden in the woods on the left. Sneak up on it carefully
because the ducks in it will fly the moment you are observed. There are often many swallows
present representing at least three species. It’s one of the better places for olive-sided flycatchers
and northern waterthrush. For the next mile, warblers are especially thick.
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(G) At 7.1 miles you’ll reach the leading edge of a large marsh on the left. On this end, puddle
ducks, hooded mergansers, and pie-billed grebes are more common. On the farther end, about
a mile beyond, diving ducks such as common goldeneyes and nesting ring-necked ducks are
more likely. The tall trees on the distant bank usually have at least one nest, osprey or bald
eagle, and sometimes both. Meanwhile, the woods on the right are full of warblers.
(H) Just before you reach the end of the Shirley Bog road at 8.9 miles, the river on your right
is regular for common mergansers, black ducks and mallards.
Directions from Greenville: Proceed through town to the area of Greenville Junction
near the waterfront park and boat launch area. Look for Depot Road and/or signs for the
Greenville Dump. Follow Depot Road straight ahead until it turns into B&A Railroad Bed
North Road.
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Greenville
East B
ra
nch --
Piscata
quis R
iver
On the approach to town, pay close attention to the moose warning
signs along Route 15. Moose infest this area, particularly at the Maine Department of
C
Transportation highway service lot 2 miles past the Lower Shirley Corner Road.
Greenville is an impressive place for the adventurous birder. Several float plane
companies compete to offer tours
of the area by air. An old mail boat,
B
the Katahdin (left), plies the waters
B&A Railroad
in summer. There are even moose
Bed North
safaris available. The town has a long
Road to
heritage of outstanding treatment of
Greenville
visitors and there is a wide range of
good food and great accommodations. Shops are simple, unique and local. There are no fast
Shirley Pond
food chains here. Instead, there are restaurants with names like The Stress-free Moose, the
A
To
Moose Breath Saloon, and The Black Frog.
Route
Shirley
15
From Greenville, you have a choice of riches. On the west side of Moosehead Lake,
two outflows of the mighty Kennebec River cross under Route 15, creating woodland corridors
of mature forest and canopy bird species. Big Moose Mountain checks in at nearly 3,200 feet and surveys have found Bicknell’s
thrush in most years. The east side of the lake has more extensive sections of reforestation in progress, with large tracts of scrub
and secondary growth, as well as Lily Bay State Park and Kokadjo.
Moosehead West:
7 You can reach the Shirley Bog area by turning south from Greenville Junction onto
Depot Street, following straight ahead to the B&A Railroad Bed North road.
8 Big Moose Mountain and several other hiking opportunities are reached from
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North Road that turns west off Route 15 3.5 miles north of Greenville Junction. The
trailhead for Big Moose is 1.3 miles from the intersection. The mountain ascent is relatively
short and steep. Bicknell’s Thrush has been located in most years near the summit. The
most reliable spot is reported to be just before the first tower. Remember that Bicknell’s
Thrush is vocal primarily at dawn and dusk. It is handy to be familiar with its various call
notes, sounding like BEEAH, WEEE, and/or WEER. Due to its preferrence for alpine
habitat, Bicknell’s thrush is a late migrant, usually arriving after Memorial Day weekend.
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9 Kennebec River East Outlet: About 10 miles north of Greenville Junction,
Route 15 crosses the east outlet of the Kennebec River. Immediately after the bridge,
there is a small parking lot and a dirt road. This is an excellent road for a warbler walk,
since there is little traffic. The first section of this road is the best, traversing a mix of
mature hardwoods and conifer species. Canopy warblers such as blackburnian, pine,
northern parula, bay-breasted, black-throated green, and black-throated blue are relatively
easy to view. At 1.5 miles, just past a gate, there is a regenerating clear cut where you can
add sparrows and flycatchers to your list. At all times be alert for boreal chickadees. The
road continues 5.5 miles to a dead end at the Kennebec River in Somerset Junction. It is
usually drivable and there are a couple of stream flowages that offer chances for common
yellowthroat and Wilson’s warblers, but it is not as productive as the first 1.5 miles.
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10 Kennebec River West Outlet: About 16 miles north of Greenville Junction,
Route 15 crosses the west outlet of the Kennebec River. Beyond the bridge, look for a
dirt road leading west called Somerset Road. This road also traverses mature hardwood
growth and offers many of the same birding opportunities as the East Outlet. However,
this road continues for 26 miles to Route 201, and there are homes on the outlet ponds,
so it tends to be more heavily traveled. On the other hand, the road brushes past several
good views of river, ponds and productive wetland areas, so a walk or slow drive can be
equally pleasurable.
11 Rockwood is your last sure chance for gas and supplies. It is here that Route 15
turns west along the Moose River, heading for Jackman. However, by turning right and
crossing the bridge in Rockwood, you may extend your Moosehead adventures further
north and even circumnavigate the lake. The Birches Resort lies just a couple miles ahead.
Beyond it, a well-traveled dirt road extends far into
the North Maine Woods. (There is an access fee at 17
miles.) The historic Pittston Farm sits 20 miles north
of Rockwood on Seboomook Lake. Just beyond it, the
Golden Road is an unpaved artery that runs east/west
from Millinocket to Quebec. Its primary purpose is to
serve Maine’s working forest. But secondarily, it and
the roads that extend from it provide access to many
waterways and wild areas, as well as to the Allagash
region even further north.
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Moosehead East:
12 Gulf Hagas: Just beyond the intown intersection where Route 15
splits west, take your first right onto Pleasant Street toward the Greenville
Airport. This road continues east beyond the airport onto North Maine Woods
Association land. “The Katahdin Trail” bisects working forest, so much of it is
in secondary regrowth, but there are three major attractions along this back way
to Brownville Junction. Gulf Hagas is a 3.5 mile gorge through slate bedrock,
often called “The Grand Canyon of Maine.” The hiking trails are immensely
popular though seldom crowded.
Gulf Hagas is a National Natural
Landmark. Just beyond, The
Hermitage is a towering, 35 acre
stand of white pine protected by
the Nature Conservancy. At the end
of the road, Katahdin Iron Works
was an iron smelting operation that
thrived for the second half of the
19th century and much of it is still remarkably visible. To explore these areas,
it is best to pick up maps and the latest information at the NMW “Hedgehog
Checkpoint” station located 9 miles east of Greenville.
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13 Scammon Ridge: The best area of mature forest lies along the
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ridge that rises above the Wilson Ponds. Tall balsam fir, thick yellow birches,
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and elderly beeches predominate. Expect many canopy warblers such as
blackburnian, northern parula, black-throated green, and black-throated blue.
This is the realm of Swainson’s thrushes and ovenbirds. The suggested birding
route winds 8.1 miles behind the ridge and traverses several excellent beaver
flowages before exiting along Mountain View Lane.
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Mountain View Lane
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Scam
Scammon Road
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14. Lily Bay State Park: At 8.7 miles,
Lily Bay State Park will come up on your left.
This is a popular park for camping, offering
semi-secluded sites and plenty to do, including
a boat launch and a beach. At both places the
tall white pines are full of pine warblers and
there is a fine assortment of other warblers,
vireos and thrushes throughout the park.
15
Elephant Mountain: Most of
the woods east of Moosehead Lake have
been heavily logged. There are now vast stretches of secondary regrowth, experimental plantings of spruce and pine, and
mixed hardwoods. American redstarts, magnolia, chestnut-sided, and Nashville warblers are found in abundance in these areas.
Tennessee warblers are regular, mostly in migration. This is also an area of small ponds and beaver flowages. As a result, there is
a warren of identical dirt roads throughout the area, making it easy for birders to lose their way. An intriguing way to circumvent
the problem is to pay respects at Elephant Mountain. In 1963 a B-52 bomber on a training mission suffered a structural failure
and crashed at the base of the mountain. Most of the wreckage was left intact as a shrine to the crewmen who perished. It is
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Number Four Mt
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Kiosk
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Elephant Mt.
treated with great reverence by Mainers and ceremonies
still take place there every year. Recently, the Maine Air
National Guard has erected signs that direct respectful
people to the site. Using these signs as navigational tools,
it is possible for birders to navigate these roads for an
exploration of the area. A visit to the crash site also
reminds us of the daily risks undertaken by all those in
uniform who protect our freedoms. The “B-52” signs
begin on Elephant Mountain Road, but the area also can
be reached from Mountain View Lane and Scammon
Road. There is an informational kiosk for snowmobilers
at the intersection where the roads meet.
16 Number Four Mountain:
Just before
reaching Kokadjo along the Lily Bay Road, there is
another opportunity to explore a large area of secondary
regrowth. The Frenchtown Road along the south side of
First Roach Pond contains areas where secondary growth
is reaching maturity. Besides common yellowthroats,
American redstarts, and chestnut-sided warblers, it is
particularly good for black-throated blue and magnolia
warblers. Least flycatchers are common. At 3.3 miles, take
a right turn toward Number Four Mountain. Proceed up
the hill, bearing left on Meadowbrook Lane and continue
to the trailhead where adventurous birders may chose to
continue on foot. (The trailhead is a bit obscure. Look
carefully for the white paper company signs marking the
start of the trail.) Meadowbrook Lane continues on a
return loop to the Lily Bay Road.
17
Kokadjo:
This tiny community lies 18.5
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miles along the Lily Bay Road. It’s the common species
that make this
place uncommon. Barn, tree, and cliff swallows flood the sky here. Seedeaters of all types are attracted to the feeders outside the restaurant. Common
loons and mallards take little heed of people and are always quite close.
Upper Wilson Pond
18 Lazy Tom Stream:
In another mile-and-a-half beyond Kokadjo (bearing
left at the fork) turn left again toward
Spencer Pond Camps. Just a few hundred
yards from the turn, terrifically scenic
Lazy Tom Stream crosses under the road.
There is always something unusual here.
Ducks often compete with moose for
your attention. Northern harriers are a
common sight over the bog. Warblers,
evening grosbeaks, and boreal specialties
tend to be around. Crossbills, particularly
white-winged, may be around at any time
of year.
19
Big Spencer Mountain:
Bypassing the turn to Spencer Pond
Camps, you may continue straight ahead into the heart of Maine’s working forest along the Greenville Road. Ahead of you
lies Big Spencer Mountain, now owned by the state of Maine. It is one of Maine’s favorite moderate climbs, particularly
famous in foliage season. Bicknell’s thrush is known to occur here. Farther ahead is the junction with the Golden Road,
leading west to Quebec and east to Millinocket by way of Ripogenous Dam, the outlet to the mighty Penobscot River and
home to splendid white water rafting. Continuation on this route opens the way in differing directions to the Allagash
Wilderness Waterway, Baxter State Park, and the Millinocket area. This is the territory of the North Maine Woods Association.
Directions: Take the left fork just beyond Kokadjo and continue ahead for 8 miles. At the bridge that crosses Bear Brook, turn left and drive another
6 miles. Look for the trailhead on the left.
20 Spencer Pond Camps:
A
hundred years has passed since these
sporting camps were established on
the northern edge of Spencer Pond.
The current owners, Bob Croce and Jill
Martel, are avid birders and maintain an
excellent trail system around the camp.
Their bird feeders attract a stunning
array of sparrows and finches. Merlins
have nested among the cabins in the last
couple years and northern black-backed
woodpeckers are frequently seen nearby. Hotspots for spruce grouse dot the area map. Access to these camps is across private
land and only guests and visitors of the camp should explore this area. Call ahead at 207-843-5456.
21 Go Wild! North Maine Woods and West Branch Project.
On the north side of Moosehead Lake a number of extraordinary parcels have been put into conservation protection, including
some that have been purchased outright by the state. The Forest Society of Maine provides stewardship over the West Branch
Project Region. Although the area is crisscrossed by logging roads, it remains one of the wildest areas in New England. There
are fewer hiking trails in this area but there are more streams and ponds suitable for adventurous birders. Navigating this area
absolutely requires a Delorme’s Maine Atlas or maps available at the entry check-points of the Maine North Woods Association.
The danger of getting lost without adequate maps cannot be overstated. Cell phones do not work here.
From the west side of Moosehead, go through Rockwood and turn right across the bridge that traverses the Moose
River. From here, it is 17 miles to the Maine North Woods Association Checkpoint and 20 miles to historic Pittston Farm.
(Hence the name of this road is the 20 Mile Road.) The first few miles cross through the Moosehead Wildlands, 11,000 acres
of multiple use forest area. Nearby, The Birches is an associated complex of lodge and cottages that offers excellent lodging
and dining year round. It also maintains a system of cross-country ski trails that can double as birding trails in the spring. There
are additional side roads all along the access to the West Branch area. Some are little used and can be walked without concern
for traffic. Others lead to private property and signs that request privacy should be heeded. One road leads to Tomhegan
Wilderness Resort, another excellent, four-season, sporting camp.
Further along the 20 Mile Road to Pittston Farm checkpoint, you will pass through several other interesting areas. These
include experimental plantings of red pine and white spruce where adjacent clearcuts are home to breeding Lincoln’s sparrow
and mourning warbler. Just before the checkpoint there is a large beaver flowage that is good for flycatchers and blackbirds.
Three miles after the checkpoint, the road splits at a T intersection. There are three loop options around Moosehead
Lake from this intersection. (See next paragraph.) A left turn takes you immediately to your preferred first stop at historic Pittston
Farm (left) on Seboomook Lake. It was first built in 1850 as a way station for sportsmen on
their way to Canada along the old Indian Trail. Later, it served as the hub of operations for
forestry in the region. Nowadays it is an exceptional getaway for sportsmen, snowmobilers,
boaters... and birders. At first glance, it seems an anachronism to have such a large farm and
pasture this deep in the working forest. But it provides such a variety of habitat that birders
could easily spend all day in the area and Pittston Farm is, in fact, the location for a birding
weekend over the Memorial Day holiday each year. Pittston Farm is open year round, except
April when the roads become nearly impassible with snowmelt. Call Ken and Mary Twitchell
at 207-280-0000.
22 There are three primary routes for looping around the north side of Moosehead Lake. All three routes traverse part of
the Golden Road. This is a major, unpaved thoroughfare that stretches all the way from Millinocket in the east to the Quebec
border in the west. The logging trucks hurtling down this road are heavily laden. Give them the right of way and plenty of room.
Be careful not to stop in blind spots on the roadway and always park safely. Though the road is kept in good condition, it gets
dusty when dry and visibility can be affected. Likewise, dust makes the road itself uninviting for birders. On any of the suggested
loops, it is best to walk some of the side roads. Investigate the camping areas printed on area maps. These are invariably near
water and offer the best chance for scenery and birding diversity.
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The first loop is the Seboomook Road that leads from Pittston Farm along the southern shore of Seboomook Lake 13 miles
to the Seboomook Campground area, which is actually located on the northern tip of Moosehead Lake. From Seboomook, the
road continues to Northeast Carry (another tip of the lake) and from there to the Golden Road, hence south on the Greenville
Road to Kokadjo and back to Greenville. This route is the shortest in distance but
not the shortest in time because it tends to be narrow and badly rutted in places.
There are good views of Seboomook Lake along the route.
A second route is along a continuation west of Pittston Farms, then five miles north
to the Golden Road. There is a mature stand of spruce-fir forest about just before
the Golden Road intersection. This stand is protected as a deer wintering area. As
a result, it is particularly mature and good for boreal species: spruce grouse, boreal
chickadee, gray jay, Cape May warbler, yellow-bellied flycatcher, and black-backed
woodpecker. There are no trails, so it is best investigated from the road. Beware of
traffic, especially logging trucks. Also, in the clearcuts near this intersection, birders
can find nesting mourning warblers and Lincoln’s sparrows. These two species
prefer to nest in early successional stage habitat created by clearcuts, burns, or blowdowns. After scouting the boreal stand and
clearcuts, continue to follow the Golden Road east (toward Millinocket) for 35 miles until you reach the Caribou Checkpoint of
the North Woods Association. From here, it is another 5.5 miles along the Golden Road to the intersection with the Greenville
Road, which you will follow south to Kokadjo.
A third, longer route is less traveled and dusty. Once again, continue west past Pittston Farms 5.5 miles to the Golden Road,
scouting the boreal stand and clearcuts as above. However, turn west on the Golden Road and proceed for about 6 miles until
you cross Cement Bridge. Just beyond the bridge, turn right onto Budworm Brook Road. (There may not be a sign for this road.)
This 32-mile loop appears to be one main road, though it will be named Budworm Brook Road, North Branch Access Road,
and 490 Road at various points along the way. It will take you past several interesting opportunities and several intersections that
lead deeper into the north woods. At 10 miles, you will reach Big Bog campground. This is the outflow of Big Bog, a wetland
area reported to be the home of yellow rail and sedge wren, though it is only accessible by canoe. (There is another canoe access
point north of the bog for those who wish to shuttle boats, but the entire bog flowage is less than 2.5 miles and this may not be
necessary.)