islandmagee

A visitors guide to Islandmagee
WELCOME TO ISLANDMAGEE
An ideal place to visit
Islandmagee is a beautiful coastal and country
peninsula situated on the east coast of Co. Antrim
between the historic town of Carrickfergus and the port
of Larne. It is joined to the mainland at Whitehead mid
way between these towns and an attractive raised
causeway (B90) also gives access to the area.
The area provides excellent facilities for golfing, diving,
horse riding, boating, bird watching and a host of other
activities.
Rugged basalt cliffs (The Gobbins) look east towards
Scotland, which can be seen clearly on a good day,
whilst gentle gradients on the west sweep down to the
waters of Larne Lough. Safe sandy beaches nestle
between the northern promontories whilst, at the
southern end, a picturesque coastal walk from
Whitehead gives access to the craggy headland
known as Black Head.
Islandmagee has produced more master mariners for
its size than any other area in Ireland. It is said that in
the late 1800’s and early 1900’s one could not have
visited any port in the world without meeting a seaman
from Islandmagee!
This sense of history is treasured and guarded by local
people who are fiercely proud of their seafaring and
farming traditions.
STEEPED IN HISTORY
Islandmagee can trace its history back to the Neolithic
Age (4000 to 2500BC).
In ancient times the area was called Rinn Semhne.
Rinn, in Irish, means a point and its application to land
means a peninsula or promontory thus the peninsula of
the territory called Semhne.
Colla Uais reigned as King of Ireland from AD323 to
326 and was the progenitor of many tribes that became
influential throughout the country. One of these tribes
took its distinctive name from a chieftain called Aedh.
Mac (meaning a son or descendant) became prefixed
and the tribes name evolved to MacAedha. They
inhabited the area now known as Islandmagee. It was
common practice for resident tribes to give their name
to the area in which they lived.
page 2
As a result of the corruption of surnames over the
generations the name changed to Island Maghies,
McGye’s Land, MacGuy’s Island (alias Magee’s Island)
and thus to Islandmagee.
In the seventeenth century unfortunate events ended the
occupation of the descendants of Colla Uais and made
way for settlement by the ancestors of many of the present
day inhabitants, who are mainly of Scots descent.
Evidence of Islandmagee’s historic past has been
uncovered and documented. One particular feature
that has stood the test of time is a portal tomb at
Ballylumford known locally as the Druids Altar and
probably a relic of the Neolithic Age.
In recent years, particularly during the laying of a gas
pipeline from Scotland, many archaeological digs were
commissioned and a considerable amount of historical
artefacts uncovered. The most significant of these was
the excavation of a Bronze Age round house near to
Brown’s Bay.
Greeks and Vikings
Encompassing the sheltered waters of Larne Lough
Islandmagee has always provided a safe haven for
travelling seamen. It has been discovered on maps drawn
by the ancient Greeks and in later years was favoured by
the Vikings as a base for their raids on the native
population. A skeleton of one of the Norsemen was found
on the shores of Larne Lough in the mid 19th century.
It is said that, when a Viking warrior died, it was the
custom that he should be buried in his home soil. It is
claimed that the colour of the soil in the ancient
Ballypriormore graveyard differs from that of
Islandmagee soil suggesting that the soil for this
graveyard was imported by the Vikings from their
northern homeland in order to satisfy their burial customs.
Few, if any, countryside parishes in Northern Ireland
possess such a store of material for historical and
antiquarian notice as Islandmagee.
For many centuries following the mission of St. Patrick,
Islandmagee seems to have been the haunt for small
ecclesiastical communities, schools and colleges.
Evidence of many of these is well documented and
further evidence is still being uncovered.
Saint Patrick
Christianity was probably introduced to Ireland in the
third century but it was the mission of St. Patrick in the
fifth century that converted the Irish to this new faith.
During his mission St. Patrick is credited with visiting
Islandmagee resulting in the establishment of a church
in the townland of Kilcoan.
There is little doubt that the earliest church established
in Islandmagee was one of two recorded in the
townland of Kilcoanmore. One in a field still known as
the Kirk-land adjacent to Kilcoan House and the other,
less than one mile distant, at Whitehouse where there
is evidence of an ancient graveyard.
Legend has it that St. Patrick crossed to Islandmagee
from Larne in a corracle and afterwards blessed the
crossing. It is fact than no one has ever been drowned
on the crossing from Larne to the “Island”.
A visitors guide to Islandmagee
St. John’s Church
St. John’s Parish Church, situated in the townland of
Ballyharry, is one of the oldest churches still in use in
Northern Ireland. The simple rectangular structure, with
windows of Elizabethan Gothic, dates back to 1595.
The present St. John’s Church is locally known as the
“New Church” which distinguishes it from the more
ancient St. John’s situated in the townland of Ballykeel.
The graveyard of this establishment is still in use and
the walls of the old church are still standing. It was one
of many throughout the country that belonged to the
Knights of St. John of Jerusalem and was said to have
originally been the Church of St. John of Ransevyn.
There are, currently, three other active churches in the
area, 1st and 2nd, Islandmagee Presbyterian and
Islandmagee Methodist each dating back for many years
to its establishment and each with its own rich history.
Family history
Churches and graveyards are a rich source of
information on family history.
Over the generations, emigration and the seafaring
nature of the population carried sons and daughters of
Islandmagee throughout the world.
Many old family names are recorded on the
headstones of the ancient graveyards of Ballykeel,
Ballypriormore and St. John’s. These have been
recorded in a book published by the Ulster Historical
Foundation in 1977 and entitled Gravestone
Inscriptions, Co. Antrim, Vol. 1, Islandmagee.
Islandmagee New Cemetery was established in 1925
and a listing of burials on this land was published by
the Larne Branch of the Northern Ireland Family History
Society in 2003 under the title “On Tranquil Land or
Stormy Sea”.
The graveyards of Islandmagee reflect the strong
maritime tradition of the area and headstones often record
the names of ships, epic incidents and exotic places.
HISTORICAL SNIPPETS
Eight women were convicted of the offence and were
sentenced to one year imprisonment and ”to be four
times pilloried” on the Castle green. As a result of the
punishment one poor woman lost an eye. The offence
of witchcraft was repealed in 1734.
A book entitled “The Witches of Islandmagee” by
Charles McConnell and published by Carmac Books
(2000) is available at local retail outlets.
Bed Chamber
A cave known as the Schoolmaster’s Bed Chamber is
located close to Black Head. It was the “home” of an
eccentric schoolteacher, named Thomas McCartney,
who hailed from the Antrim Glens and set up a school
at Fairview in the townland of Castletown.
For many years this lonely and wild retreat was his sole
abode and in even the wildest of nights no
remonstrance or coaxing could entice him to accept a
bed in a neighbours house.
John Paul Jones
Many versions of the epic encounter between
privateer John Paul Jones’s ship “Ranger” and the
British gunboat “Drake” have been recorded each with
its own interpretation of the story.
Witches
Following a raid on the home of Lord Selkirk near to
Kirkcudbright, in Scotland, the Ranger crossed the
North Channel, arriving off the coast of Islandmagee on
an evening in April 1778, when the privateer lay-to in
the shelter of the Gobbins Cliffs. Her sudden
appearance from this unexpected quarter took the
Drakes look-out boat by surprise in Black Head Bay
and it was captured. Learning of this the Drake set out
to engage with the Ranger and, with both ships evenly
matched, an epic engagement took place. The Ranger
dominated the engagement and, after a battle lasting
one hour and fifteen minutes, the Drake struck her
colours and returned to the shelter of Carrickfergus
Castle. Lying off until night Jones and his crew
attempted to board the Drake but a strong gale
accompanied by a blinding snow storm frustrated his
purpose and he re-crossed the Channel to attack
Whitehaven.
The last witchcraft trial in Ireland took place in
Carrickfergus as the result of strange happenings in
Islandmagee during 1710 and 1711.
John Paul, born in Scotland, emigrated to America at
the age of thirteen. Later in life he changed his name to
John Paul Jones and he is credited with being the
Smugglers
At one time, in the distant past, Islandmagee was well
known as a haven for smugglers who stashed their
contraband goods in the many caves on the rugged
shoreline and in underground constructions in
surrounding fields. This trade was at its height during
the period of the English Corn Laws.
Kegs of rum and whiskey seem to have been the staple
articles of the contraband trade and occasional
encounters took place between the smugglers and the
preventive servicemen.
Coastguard stations were established to deter the
practice and to keep an eye on the comings and
goings of the locals.
page 3
A visitors guide to Islandmagee
founder of the American navy. By 1788 he was in the
service of Russia. He died in Paris in 1792 when he
was accorded a semi-state funeral. In 1905 his body
was removed to America where it was re-interred with
much respect.
Also, close to the harbour, is Ballylumford Power
Station that provides one third of the electricity needs
for Northern Ireland.
THE NATURAL ENVIRONMENT
Portmuck is situated at the north eastern corner of
Islandmagee and is accessed by a winding road.
Centrepiece of this beautiful area is the scenic little
harbour, originally the home of a local fishing fleet, and
its small strand where children can play. A rocky
headland is popular with shore anglers.
Islandmagee provides a picturesque setting with many
scenic viewing points and interesting natural features.
Portmuck
Brown’s Bay
Brown’s Bay is the most popular tourist spot on the
“Island”. It has a beautiful, safe, sandy beach nestling
between the northern promontories of Skernaghan
Point and Barr’s Point. Skernaghan Point, on the east of
the bay, is a National Trust property and features a
short walking route past the “Rocking Stone”. Looking
to the north one gets a clear view of the “Maiden’s
Rocks”, far out in the North Channel, and of their
lighthouse.
The western side of Brown’s Bay is bounded by Barr’s
Point that is the home of a testing and picturesque golf
course.
A footpath follows the road past the golf club to another
attractive sandy beach at Ferris Bay. This bay is
bounded on its western side by Ferris Point on which
stands the lighthouse that guides shipping into the
busy port of Larne.
The harbour is bounded, on the west, by limestone
cliffs that have often yielded prehistoric fossils.
The area is the site of an ancient abbey and castle and
a new National Trust walkway has been constructed
with stunning views out to sea and of Muck Island.
The island is said to resemble the shape of a pig thus
its name, derived from the Irish for pig (Muc). It was
also marked on old maps as Nagloragh Island, “Island
of the Rushing Waters”
Muck Island is an important bird sanctuary with nesting
seabirds, shags, puffins, razorbills, kittiwakes, fulmars,
gannets, gulls, the rare roseate tern and many
migrating land birds.
Millbay
Millbay is a quaint little hamlet situated on the shores of
Larne Lough around the mid point of the peninsula. Its
limestone jetty was originally constructed for the
shipment of limestone from the Ballytober quarry to the
iron smelting works in England and Scotland. It was
served by coasting schooners and also became a port
for the shipment of grain to the west coast of Ireland
and for the importation of coal.
In the present day this jetty is the focal point for the
Millbay regatta, held annually in August, and an
excellent fun event with activities for all of the family.
A small harbour is situated on the Islandmagee side of
the entrance to Larne Lough just opposite the Port of
Larne. It is a valuable launching point for sea borne
activities and is a good viewing place for those
interested in the comings and goings of the large cross
channel ferries. A small passenger ferry runs to a regular
timetable between this harbour and the town of Larne.
page 4
Gobbins
The Gobbins Cliffs form most of the eastern side of
Islandmagee, bordering on the North Channel. They
are a mysterious place riddled with caves some of
which are reputed to extend far inland. Most notable of
A visitors guide to Islandmagee
these caves are Kracken Cave, Trump Cave and a
group known as the Seven Sisters.
The Gobbins were developed as a tourist attraction by
the Belfast and Northern Counties Railway Company
whose engineer, Berkley Dean Wise, built a
magnificent path along the base of the cliffs ( opened
in 1902.)
In those days Islandmagee, within easy reach of
Northern Ireland’s major centre of population in the
greater Belfast area, was a major holiday venue.
The path was gouged out of the shear face of the cliffs
and the sections joined together by a series of
spectacular bridges of varied design.
Following its opening in 1902 it attracted tremendous
interest and train loads of visitors travelled to view this
magnificent attraction.
Sadly the path fell into disrepair during the second
World War and was closed, on safety grounds, some
years later.
It is appropriate to issue a warning to visitors that
the Gobbins Cliffs, in their present state, are unsafe
for land exploration and should be avoided. The
only way to appreciate the wonders of the area is
from the sea!
Today the Gobbins Cliffs are a haven for a wide variety
of sea birds that can nest in safety and enjoy an
abundance of food from the adjoining North Channel.
Muldersleigh
Muldersleigh Hill forms a prominent feature at the
southern end of Islandmagee. From its summit it offers
excellent views through 360 degrees.
Looking south over the mouth of Belfast Lough one can
take in the North Down coast and, on a clear day, get
a view of the Mourne Mountains and the Isle of Man. To
the west the view extends many miles inland and, to
the north one can see almost the full length of
Islandmagee. The view to the east is across the North
Channel to the coast of Scotland.
In ancient times the hill was capped by an old stone
fort but, now, a challenging and popular golf course
has pride of place. At its south east corner stands a
picturesque, and much photographed, lighthouse
station on top of the imposing basalt cliff known as
Black Head. To the south west the attractive little
township of Whitehead nestles under the brow of the
hill and provides access to a popular and scenic
coastal walk along the southern extremity of
Muldersleigh to the mystical cliffs at Blackhead.
Larne Lough
Sandwiched between Islandmagee and the Co. Antrim
mainland Larne Lough has always had a controlling
influence on the area. Its importance, over the
centuries, as a sheltered anchorage has been referred
to earlier.
Larne Lough is a wetland of international significance
and is home to a wide variety of bird species as a
breeding and feeding ground.
Swan Island, in the Lough, is one of the few areas in
Northern Ireland with a SPA (special protection area)
classification and the Lough itself has been designated
as an (ASSI) area of special scientific interest and an
international RAMSAR site.
Larne Lough presents an ideal opportunity for the
study of marine orientated wildlife.
page 5
ISLANDMAGEE COMMUNITY
DEVELOPMENT ASSOCIATION
Email: islandmagee@nacn.org
Registered as charity by Inland Revenue No. XR32912
Islandmagee Community Development Association has undertaken the
production of this Visitors Guide and the committee trusts that it will prove to
be a useful aid for those visiting, or wishing to visit, the area.
We wish to thank everyone who has supported this publication by advertising
in it and to particularly thank Larne Borough Council for its generous support.
We would encourage visitors to the area to observe the Country Code and
to take care on our narrow country roads.
Do come and enjoy our beautiful countryside and wonderful landscapes.
Anyone wishing to learn more about Islandmagee can obtain a copy of the
Islandmagee video/DVD available from most local retail outlets, as is Dixon
Donaldson’s History of Islandmagee. Both are ICDA productions.
The Islandmagee Association aims to make the area a safer place
to be in. ICDA has established Northern Ireland’s first
Community Responder Group, staffed by local people, fully
trained by St. John Ambulance to deal with cardiac emergencies.
The group operates under the direction of the Northern Ireland
Ambulance Service and is activated by them as the result of an
emergency call thus ensuring that help can reach a patient in the
shortest possible time.
Ashfield Riding for
the Disabled Group
We provide horse
and trap driving for
able bodied and
disabled riders
Groups or
Individuals
Welcome
•
•
•
•
•
FREE VALUATIONS
RESIDENTIAL SALES
LETTINGS
NEW HOMES
MORTGAGES
A new home – A new beginning
Larne Office
57 Main Street, Larne BT40 1JE
Telephone 028 2827 9921
All enquiries to:
The Rainbow Equestrian Centre
24 Hollow Road, Islandmagee BT40 3RL
Telephone (028) 9338 2929
www.ashfieldrda.co.uk
Carrickfergus Office
2 Market Place, Carrickfergus BT38 7AW
Telephone 028 9336 3931
Ballyclare Office
37 Main Street, Ballyclare BT39 9AA
Telephone 028 9335 4864
St Ronans B & B, Self Catering
8a Portmuck Road, Islandmagee BT40 3RX
Contact Name Judith Tweed
Tel: +44 (0) 2893 382055 Fax: +44 (0) 2893 382502
Mobile: 07718 770194
Email info@stronans.biz internet www.stronans.biz
TWEED • FUELS
OIL, COAL AND GAS
YOUR LOCAL SUPPLIER
Telephone 9338 2502
Mobile 07710 014309
32 Mullaghboy Road,
Portmuck, Islandmagee.
Tel: 02893 382830
CAFÉ AND CONVENIENCE STORE
Hot and Cold Food served daily. Sit In or Take Away.
Hot Food stops one hour before closing.
Summer Opening Hours
(APRIL – OCTOBER)
Mon – Sat
8am – 8pm
Sun
9am – 6pm
Winter Opening Hours
(NOVEMBER – MARCH)
Mon – Sat
9am – 6pm
Sun
9am – 6pm
Feel free to come along and enjoy the friendly atmosphere whilst meeting the
locals and enjoying stories of ancient folklore. All this, before taking a scenic walk
to popular attractions including Portmuck Harbour and Browns Bay.
Island
magee Football Club
An invitation to visit us
Matches most Saturdays during season
New members and visitors welcome
to our family friendly club
Available for functions by prior arrangement
Contact John at 028 9335 3571
Situated on Middle Road, opposite
Island Village between the Rinkha
and Community Centre
Portmuck Holiday Cottages
SELF CATERING
Family run beef farm situated above Portmuck
Harbour with views of the Antrim hills and Scotland.
The sandy beach is suitable for children. Horse riding,
golf and scuba diving arranged.
69 Portmuck Road, Islandmagee BT40 3TP
Contact: Irene Crawford. Telephone 9338 2252.
Email: fishermansleap@portmuck.fsworld.co.uk
Islandmagee
Riding Centre
Ashmore House
Bed & Breakfast
Self Catering
n
Accommodatio
Available
Islandmagee Riding Centre
is a busy, popular BHS
approved riding school with
a family friendly atmosphere.
Open six years it has two
outdoor floodlit all weather
areas, a show jumping arena,
cross country jumps and a
small trek.
One, two and three day
camps are run during the
school holidays for the
younger clients and there is
also adult days.
We will also prepare clients for BHS and
NVQ examinations with many successful
results.
103 Browns Bay Road, Islandmagee
Telephone 028 9338 2108
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
All rooms en-suite
TV and tea/coffee facilities
Off road parking
Excellent views
Special rates for families
Three golf courses within a 3 mile radius
20 minutes from Larne ferry
Come as a guest, leave as a friend
135 Browns Bay Road, Islandmagee,
Larne, Antrim BT40 3TQ
Tel: 028 9338 2276 / 07719 584987
Email: mccun@aol.com
Larne Golf Club
54 Ferris Bay Road, Islandmagee
Visitors & Societies Welcome
Come and play this beautiful course
with fantastic coastal views
Telephone
(028) 9338 2228
OPEN FOR MEMBERSHIP
ISLANDMAGEE
2 Ballystrudder Road Islandmagee
Telephone 9335 3261
• POST OFFICE
• LOTTO
• PAYPOINT
• ATM
• DELI
• SANDWICH BAR
• HOT FOOD
• ICE CREAM
• HOME-MADE SALADS
• STEW AND SOUPS
There for you
luxury and stunning s
aceful
ea v
e
p
ie w
oy
s
E nj
Ford Farm
Camping Barn (Hostel)
This accommodation is situated
on scenic Islandmagee, 11⁄2
miles from the main coastal
route – A2, 1⁄2 mile from
Ballycarry Railway Station
which gives easy access from
the ports of Belfast and Larne.
The Hostel provides self-catering
facilities, with 18 bunks - 2 per room, hot showers and central
heating. Local attractions include rambling, bird-watching, horse
riding, diving, sea-boat excursions, fishing and golf.
HOLIDAY COTTAGE
Portmuck Harbour, Islandmagee
Northern Ireland
Tourist Board
★★★★★
Email: seabreeze@ntlworld.com
Phone Anna at 028 9066 0581
www.seabreezeireland.com
Ford Farm is equal distance between Larne and Carrickfergus
(71⁄2 miles). Facilities between both towns include a Norman
castle, cinema, leisure centre, shops, restaurants and fast food
outlets. The local town of Whitehead is only 2 miles away and
can be safely walked to using the newly constructed pavement.
Whitehead is a beautiful seaside town with local amenities
and a relaxing coastal promenade walk. The local Spar store
is less than 1⁄4 mile from the hostel.
Contact Charlotte Hall
8 Low Road, Islandmagee BT40 3RD.
T: (028) 9335 3264 E: info@ford-farm.co.uk
www.ford-farm.co.uk
~ CARAVAN CLUB MEMBERS WELCOME ~
55 Middle Road, Islandmagee.
Telephone 028 9335 3229.
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Grocery
Confectionery
Sandwiches
Hot Food
Newsagenst
Stationery
Greetings Cards
• Post Cards
& Stamps
• Hardware
• Household
• Car Care
• Souvenirs
• Car Park
Top Brand Toys At Discount Prices
FAMOUS
HOMEMADE
ICE CREAM
OPEN LATE EVERY NIGHT
MONDAY TO SUNDAY
GOBBINS LODGE
Not so much a Break…more a Breakthrough!
•
•
•
•
•
Northern Ireland’s Popular Health and Lifestyle Spa
Breathtaking Sea Views
Idyllic Location, Excellent Cuisine
Sauna, Steam-room, Hot tub, Spas
Daily Massage, Exercise and Relaxation Therapies
Gobbins Lodge, Health & Lifestyle Spa,
65 Gobbins Road, Islandmagee, Co. Antrim BT40 3TY
Tel. 028 9335 3536
Email: tom.meekin@gobbins-lodge.com
Website: www.gobbins-lodge.com
Relax and revitalise - the natural way - at Gobbins Lodge