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!"#$%&'( I S S N : 13 0 9 - 3 8 51 JJULY U L Y 2 0 11 11 TTHE HE CCOMPLETE OMP L E T E G GUIDE UIDE TTO OG GO O® HAMAM DECADENCE Historic Turkish bath reopens for a luxurious experience + İSTANBUL GETS FESTIVE WITH JAZZ AND OPERA ELTON JOHN, DURAN DURAN AND BON JOVI ROCK YOUR WORLD PLUS MUCH MORE Istanbul July 2011 Top designs Founded in 2003, Autoban continues to create new styles in interior design, architecture and product design. Its bedroom, living room, library, dining room and kitchen furnishings, all displayed in İstanbul’s newest art gallery in Akaretler, promise to make design an integral part of everyday life. the guide 09 VODAFONE Roam with Vodafone, feel at home 12 SHOPPING Boutiques & Speciality Shops Listings Major shopping areas and our choice of the best speciality stores 34 ENTERTAINMENT Entertainment & Nightlife Listings The latest information on İstanbul’s concerts and clubs 42 DINING Dining Listings Listings by neighbourhood and cuisine 58 MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS Museums & Attractions Listings Major sightseeing attractions plus museums and events 62 GALLERIES & ANTIQUES Gallery Listings National and commercial art galleries 66 ESSENTIALS Transport and useful information Tips for getting around town 70 MAPS Central İstanbul maps ALSO INSIDE 02 From the Editor 04 Calendar 72 The Last Word 26 where now 08 Art Lighting up Borusan Music House is international group exhibition Madde-Işık (Matter, Light) 10 Dining Dutch chef Rudolf van Nunen shares his thoughts on creating top cuisine 32 Entertainment With Efes One Love at Santralistanbul and Rock’n Coke at Hezarfen Airport, İstanbul rocks out this summer! ON THE COVER Ayasofya Hürrem Sultan Hamam: a 16th-century Ottoman bath in Sultanahmet, reopens its doors. J U LY 2011 I W H E R E İ S TA N B U L 1 Welcome A Note From The Editor Summer fun comes to İstanbul p. 36 In İstanbul, the capital of empires, the home of major civilizations, and meeting point of two continents, summer continues at full speed! With restaurants offering the finest Turkish and world cuisines, historical sites offering a window into the city’s rich past, the latest in fashion designs, and exhibitions to appeal to art lovers of every hue, July promises to be a very busy month. Fine concert venues like Türk Telekom Arena and Küçükçiftlk Park host several top names in entertainment, including Bon Jovi (p. 36), Elton John and Duran Duran (p. 35), to name just a few. At the same time, İstanbul turns into a genuine city of jazz this month with the 18th International Jazz Festival (p. 37). You can also check out the performances of the 2nd International Opera Festival (p. 36), featured in our entertainment pages. If you prefer a more intimate connection with local culture and music, there’s a rich selection of Turkish artists and concerts to choose from as well; it’s sure to be an unforgettable experience! Make sure you see the exhibition Across: The Cyclades Islands and Western Anatolia During The 3rd Millenium BC at the Sakıp Sabancı Museum (p. 60). Visit historical religious sites like Hagia Sophia (p. 58) and Süleymaniye Mosque (p. 61). Take break along the shores of the Bosphorus, and go for a bike or horse-andcarriage ride on the Prince’s Islands. Cool down with fine ice cream in Moda and Bebek, have an evening of fish and rakı in the bustling Asmalımescit quarter, and discover the up-and-coming night scene in Tepebaşı. İstanbul isn’t only a city of great food and historical culture; it’s also a major clothing producer – and the summer sales have begun. Check out the offerings in one of the city’s unique shopping malls for a stylish wardrobe revamp. Have a great stay in İstanbul! DİLEK KOÇ Editor, Where İstanbul 2 W H E R E İ S TA N B U L I J U LY 2011 p. 36 p. 37 p. 58 YOUR TRAVELING COMPANION SINCE 1936® where ® M A G A Z I N E WHERE MAGAZINE İSTANBUL EDITORIAL EDITOR Dilek Koç MANAGING DIRECTOR Gürkan Kınacı CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Emma Levine ENGLISH EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Bob Beer DESIGNER Tijen Tezel, Yasemin Şahin CONTRIBUTORS Ardan Zentürk, Özden Akbal DEPUTY EDITOR Özlem Aykın, M. Cem Ulugöl oaykin@where-istanbul.com PHOTO EDITOR Sami Atalan CONSULTANT Aynur Koç RESPONSIBLE EDITOR Aslı Koç ADVERTISING & BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT SALES DIRECTOR Selen Uzeroğlu Kaya suzeroglu@where-istanbul.com BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT & MARKETING MARKETING DIRECTOR Mahmut Bölükbaş mbolukbas@where-istanbul.com PRODUCTION PRODUCTION MANAGER Aybüke Kevser ASSISTANT Selda Ceylan Toprak CONTROLLER Yıldırım Uğurgelen WHERE C, CEE & TURKEY DIVISION United Publishers MANAGING DIRECTOR András Wiszkidenszky REGIONAL MANAGER Bianca Otero MANAGING DIRECTOR EUROPE MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS Chris Manning MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS CHAIRMAN & CEO William S. Morris III PRESIDENT William S. Morris IV PUBLISHER DSTİL TASARIM İLETİŞİM TİCARET LTD. ŞTİ. Teşvikiye, Deryadil Sok. Şeren Apt. 104/10, Şişli 34365, İstanbul Tel: 0212 296 0039 Fax: 0212 225 0552 PRINTED BY PROMAT BASIM YAYIN SANAYİ VE TİCARET A.Ş. 1673 Sok. 34, Esenyurt, Büyükçekmece, İstanbul Tel: 0212 622 6363 Fax: 0212 605 0798 Issue No.20 ISSN: 1309-3851 Publication type: Monthly periodical Plan ahead for your next visit to İstanbul, subscribe to where istanbul: 12 issues for Turkey TL 60; overseas subcriptions $50. Contact: info@where-istanbul.com Facebook: Where İstanbul Magazine Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited. Where is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications. CONCIERGE ADVISORY BOARD Union Internationale des Concierges d’Hotel “Les Clefs d’Or” is an International Association of Concierges. Registered at 12, Rue Cambon, 75001 Paris, France. Members are as follows Ali Öner - Ceylan Intercontinental Hotel Arzu Güden - Conrad İstanbul Cengiz Görkem - Çırağan Palace Kempinski Harun Özkan (2nd President) - Four Seasons Sultanahmet Halil Tınaztepe - Four Seasons Bosphorus Yiğit Emen (Treasurer) - Hilton İstanbul Koray Tüfekçi - Park Hyatt İstanbul Maçka Palas Tarık Er - The Ritz - Carlton, İstanbul Sedat Tuncay - Sheraton Hotel Ankara Adnan Öner (President) - Swissôtel The Bosphorus Alpaslan Yıldız - W İstanbul Endorsed by the Society Cenk Caner - The İstanbul Edition Hotel of the Golden Keys of Turkey Cankurtaran Mah. Bab-ı Humayun Cad. No.1 34122 Sultanahmet, İstanbul Tel: +(90) 212 517 35 35 www.ayasofyahurremsultanhamami.com J U LY 2011 I W H E R E İ S TA N B U L 3 THIS MONTH IN İSTANBUL Calendar July 2011 TUESDAY ELTON JOHN World-famous English singer, songwriter and pianist, in a career spanning four decades, entertains his İstanbul fans at Maçka Küçükçiftlik Park (p. 35) SATURDAY SUNDAY MONDAY ! 5 FRIDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY ! SUNDAY MONDAY 9 SATURDAY DOLMABAHÇE PALACE Check out this must-visit palace where the Ottoman Empire was administered in its final 150 years; blended with classical Ottoman and 18th century European architectural design (p. 58). FRIDAY SATURDAY MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY SATURDAY SUNDAY MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY FRIDAY SATURDAY SUNDAY 15 16 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 29 30 31 TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY 1 2 3 4 6 7 8 10 11 12 13 14 TOPKAPI PALACE Home to the sultans for centuries and the centre of state affairs, this must-see monument lets you relive the glory days of the Ottomans (p. 60). EFES PILSEN ONE LOVE FESTIVAL Major music festival at Santralistanbul. See top bands and artists, including Manic Street Preachers, Suede, Cake, Sade and many more (p. 35). ANTREPO 5 One of İstanbul’s most popular galleries presents the finest examples of Turkish modern art. Don’t miss the inaugural İstanbul Summer Exhibition (p. 8 PRINCE’S ISLANDS This group of islands are the perfect place to go, for a peaceful day of sea, sun, alfresco dining and nature. The pleasant boat trip is half the fun (p. 66). RUMELİHİSARI See the operatic adaptation of Bertholt Brecht’s Rise and Fall of the City of Mahagonny by the Munich Gaertnerplatztheater in a unique open-air venue (p. 36). PARK FORA If you’re looking for a special fish dinner on the Bosphorus then book an evening here, near Ortaköy, one of İstanbul’s most popular restaurants (p. 44). YILDIZ PALACE Watch Mozart’s Abduction from Seraglio performed in its original location by Turkish State Opera, part of İstanbul International Opera Festival (p. 36). HARBİYE CEMİL TOPUZLU OPENAIR THEATRE This summer venue hosts concerts by Turkish musicians Zuhal Olcay and Bülent Ortaçgil play their love songs (p. 35). 18TH İSTANBUL JAZZ FESTIVAL Enjoy jazz, folk and blues by Duwala Malamabo Project led by Richard Bona and Raul Midon at Archaeology Museums (p. 37). FAROS DINE & WINE Enjoy mouth-watering Italian dishes such as wood oven-fired pizzas at this hip, reasonably priced restaurant, in Beyoğlu’s Talimhane district. T: 0212 297 6077. HAGIA IRENE MUSEUM Don’t miss the gala concert by mezzo-soprano Elina Garanča, the latest great Carmen at the İstanbul International Opera Festival (p. 36). LOOMART Splash out on your favourite carpet at Loomart, the only carpet maker endorsed by the General Director of the Islamic Works Museum (p. 16). GÖNÜL PAKSOY Famed for her jewellery and clothing, Ms. Paksoy’s shop in Nişantaşı offers her one-off stylish, elegant designs you won’t find anywhere else (p. 14). ROCK’N COKE Enjoy Turkey’s biggest open-air festival at Hazerfen Airport, featuring artists Moby, Limp Bizkit, Travis, Thievery Corporation and many more (p. 69). DOĞANÇAY MUSEUM Visit this gallery, founded by Turkish modern artist Burhan Doğançay to bring modern art to all, also featuring works by his father Adil (p. 59). ! PAUL SIMON Part of the 18th İstanbul Jazz Festival, this legendary American singer songwriter performs at Harbiye Cemil Topuzlu Open-Air Theatre (p. 37). KOÇ DERİ One of the finest stores in the Grand Bazaar, Koç Deri offers its own designs as well as several foreign brands, specialsing in top-quality leather and furs (p. 28). SAKIP SABANCI MUSEUM Check out the exhibition Across: The Cyclades Islands and Western Anatolia in 3000 BC for an insight into Aegean culture and commerce (p. 60). KAŞIBEYAZ BOSPHORUS In the popular Bosphorus area Yeniköy, this restaurant offers you traditional Anatolian flavours plus new culinary creations (p. 48). HARDAL A favourite for its delicious food, atmosphere and entertainment, this is one of Asmalımescit’s most popular venues, with a new branch in Nişantaşı (p. 54). 17 SUNDAY LOKUM İSTANBUL Founded in 2005, it’s an endless line of special products from confectionary to perfumes, fabrics, candles and more, created by designer Zeynep Keyman Garan (p. 24). GASIA Whether you prefer classic or modern style, Gasia’s unique jewellery designs are just the ticket, popular with many famous personalities. Check them out (p. 27)! MAIDEN’S TOWER A cup of Turkish coffee, view of İstanbul from the Bosphorus, and delicious cuisine… sound good? Don’t miss this historic tower (Kız Kulesi) (p. 59). SAPPHIRE TERRACE Take in the city’s beauty from the observatory at İstanbul’s tallest tower, Turkey’s first eco-building, also with world-famous stores (p. 15). ALHAMMAM Opposite the Grand Bazaar, this store selling hand-crafted bath accessories recreates Turkish bath culture, with its marble and domed ceiling (p. 24). ! PAŞABAHÇE Don’t leave İstanbul without seeing its glass, ceramic, wood and steel household goodies in a boutique concept, plus decorative collectors’ items (p. 24). TAMİRANE Deform-E’s DJ set moves through musical styles from Black Music to Northern Soul, in a high-energy performance at this Santralistanbul venue (p. 35). GALATA TOWER With 360-degree city views from its top floor, this 14th-century monument located in Galata is the ideal place to begin a tour of İstanbul (p. 58). 4 W H E R E İ S TA N B U L I J U LY 2011 28 THURSDAY DURAN DURAN With more than 85 million records sold worldwide, going strong for 30 years, this legendary band plays at İstanbul’s popular concert space, Maçka Küçükçiftlik Park (p. 35). Istanbul where now AYASOFYA HÜRREM SULTAN BATH: Historic Hamam Reopens Its Doors Located in the unbeatable location between Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque, the majestic Ayasofya Hürrem Sultan Bath was commissioned by Hürrem Sultan (Roxelana), wife of Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent, and built by Mimar Sinan in the 16th century. Hürrem Sultan was born in Rohatyn, in the Kingdom of Poland, and had the distinction of being the first woman officially married to an Ottoman sultan. 6 W H E R E İ S TA N B U L I J U LY 2011 The roots of hamam culture extend back to the Roman era. As the Turks conquered Anatolia, they themselves were conquered by the Roman baths. The main reason for the hamam’s significance in Ottoman culture was the value of cleanliness, an important element of piety according to Koran. For the past thousand years, hamam tradition has been an important institution for hygiene, but also for entertainment and socializing. Nowhere is this concept better represented today than in the Ayasofya Hürrem Sultan Hamam. The Sections of the “Ayasofya Hürrem Sultan Bath” The Hot Room Hamam, restaurant and coffee shop (7am-11pm). Sultan’s basins for our guests who want to feel like Suleiman or Hürrem. Bubble massage and cubicle spaces are provided. Cold Room Pir-i Pak (Full Cleaning) VIP room, special room and 48 lockers and hairdresser, reception, massage rooms, resting area on the terrace floor, vitamin bar, boutique. Warming Section (Tepidarium) After perspiring in the hot section, this is the place where the scrubbing is carried out. Includes entrance to the hamam, a gold-plated Ottoman-style bath bowl, traditional silk bath wrap (peştamal), wooden comb, scrubber according to skin type, special olive oil soap, Judas-tree essence shampoo, hair conditioner and body lotion, traditional body scrubbing, and relaxing bubble wash massage. Keyf-i Hamam (Pleasures of the Hamam) Includes entrance to the hamam, gold-plated Ottoman style bath bowl, traditional silk bath wrap (peştamal), wooden comb, scrubber according to skin type, special olive oil soap, Judas-tree essence shampoo, hair conditioner and body lotion, traditional body scrubbing, bubble wash, and Judas-tree oil Aromatherapy massage in the Sultan or Sovereign’s Room. Cankurtaran Mah. Bab-ı Hümayun Cad. 1, Sultanahmet. T: (90) 212 517 35 35. J U LY 2011 I W H E R E İ S TA N B U L 7 WHERE NOW Istanbul » ARTS Pushing The Limits Of Time After a spectacular attendance of 35,000 people last year, the Madde-Işık (Matter-Light) exhibition is being held for a second time, at Borusan Music House (to 25 September). Providing extraordinary experiences for the viewer as it turns perceptions of gravity and time on their heads, the exhibition includes works by seven modern artists from around the world: Jean Michel Bruyère, Kurt Hentschläger, Julien Maire, Christian Partos, Joachim Sauter, Dirk Lüsebrink and Li Hui (p. 63). CHILD’S PLAY Serkan Adın’s solo exhibition Oyunbozan (‘Killjoy’) at X-ist (to 16 July) really gets into the mindset of kids. Through his works, Adın depicts different characters within the areas of children’s games, bringing them into a closer relationship with the viewer (p. 65). ‘Oyunbozan’ Killjoy 8 W H E R E İ S TA N B U L I J U LY 2011 ‘Karşıdan Karşıya’ Across ‘Karşıdan Karşıya’ Across BRIDGING THE ANCIENT AEGEAN Fascinating artefacts are exhibited at Across: The Cyclades and Western Anatolia during the 3rd Millennium BC held at Sakıp Sabancı Museum (to 28 August). Exhibits include treasures from Turkish museums, plus the National Archaeology Museum of Athens and the N.P. Goulandris Foundation Cycladic Art Museum. Coming sharply into focus are the relations between Anatolia, where the first steps of civilization were taken, and the adjacent Cyclades islands (p. 65). FE AST OF LOCAL ART İstanbul really is upping its game in the art world, as demonstrated by the inaugural İstanbul Summer Exhibition (to 15 July) held at Antrepo 5. It’s certainly an exciting opportunity for Turkish modern art to elevate its profile. The event is held with the same approach and goals as the Royal Academy’s prestigious annual event in London, and has their support; the honorary president of the Istanbul exhibition is the RA’s CEO Charles Saumarez Smith, along with Lady Barbara Thomas Judge. Meclis-i Mebusan Cad. Liman İşletmeleri Sahası, Antrepo 5, Beyoğlu T: 0212 243 9074. İstanbul Summer Exhibition 2011 WHERE NOW Istanbul TIPS FROM THE TOP Concierge Corner » DINING Cooking Temperature Is Everything Beginning his career in 1982, Dutch chef Rudolf van Nunen has made a monumental effort in Turkey’s culinary world. Here since 1994, Chef van Nunen is intimately familiar with Turkish cuisine and the ingredients these lands produce, stocking his kitchen with seasonal products from all over the country. Now chef at The Marmara Hotel Taksim, van Nunen is considered a true master in the area of nouvelle cuisine, but has extensive experience in French, Dutch, German, English, Turkish, Indonesian and Cajun cooking as well. Says van Nunen, “I believe in the science of cooking. Anyone can mix two ingredients and cook them in a pot. But the important thing is to know those ingredients, and what temperatures and methods to use to produce a better result. In my kitchen, I make all my chefs use thermometers, because the most important issue is the correct temperature.” At The Marmara Hotel Taksim, the highestquality food is presented like street food, and the Chef is convinced that small portions eaten frequently will give more pleasure. Van Nunen also strives to introduce Turkish dishes to his foreign guests, and loves the rich selection of seafood available in Turkey – especially sea bass and turbot. İstanbul: A Fashionable Destination With nearly fifteen years at the Four Seasons Sultanahmet under his belt, Burak Aydın has been the concierge at the Four Seasons Bosphorus ever since it opened. “İstanbul is now one of the world’s ‘in’ cities, with the number of European guests especially who choose Istanbul growing by the day. They come here for holidays as well as for special events. My job is to make sure that our guests leave İstanbul with plenty of good memories. It’s unthinkable to come to İstanbul and not have a nice fish dinner on the Bosphorus, so I usually send our guests to restaurants we trust both in terms of service as well as the view: Sur Balık, Poseidon, Park Fora and Bebek Balıkçısı. Our guests also really like Del Mare and Lacivert on the Asian side, with their private boats. When summer arrives, entertainment venues including Reina and Sortie are very popular destinations, but lately I’ve been recommending the Billionaire Club on the ground floor of the Edition Hotel, which has VIP service. “Galata, Tünel and their surroundings have a great variety of entertainment, and it looks like this area’s going to become much more popular than the historical peninsula. In addition to the five most important places in İstanbul – the Spice Bazaar, Grand Bazaar, Hagia Sophia, Topkapı Palace and the Blue Mosque – İstanbul has other hidden jewels, like Süleymaniye Mosque and the antique stores in the Çukurcuma district. “İstanbul is a wonderful city to tour and experience, and you can find something beautiful at every turn. But a two-hour Bosphorus tour with a private boat and tour guide is something else again!” 10 W H E R E İ S TA N B U L I J U LY 2011 where the guide Shopping A First In City Collections BKG has established its museum shops with the goal of contributing to Turkey’s tourism and promoting her cultural heritage. Part of this social responsibility project is the İstanbul Collection. Employing İstanbul’s legendaryy silhouette in modern designs, the collection presents 99 different memento items, all of them fascinating. Turning a breathtaking Bosphorus view the Galata Tower and Maiden’s Tower and even İstanbul’s trademark seagulls, into original, fun gift items, the İstanbul nbul Colle Collection io is available ilable iin select le museum shops throughout the country. Look out for them also at İstinye Park, Kozzy, Cevahir, Optimum, Carrefour, Torium, Forum, Airport and Carousel shopping centres and Mudo shops in Nişantaşı and Fatih. www.bkg.com.tr. Major Shopping Areas AKARETLERLocated in Beşiktaş, Akaretler is named after a row of exquisite houses built in 1875 by architect Sarkis Balyan as one of the first products of Westernisation in the Ottoman Empire. Launched to revive the area, Akaretler Project was a major success thanks to its close proximity to the Bosphorus waterfront, downtown İstanbul, the historical peninsula and the major fashion and business district of Nişantaşı. Today, Akaretler is a fashion hotspot home to top brands including Sevan Bıçakçı and Haremlique among others. To best experience the distinct atmosphere of this unique venue, try a rakı mojito at the Living Room located in W İstanbul which complements Akaretler in all its glory. B7. BAĞDAT STREETNamed after Murat IV’s successful campaign to recapture Baghdad, this posh street on İstanbul’s Asian side extends from Kızıltoprak in Kadıköy to Cevizli in Maltepe. The section between Suadiye and Caddebostan is especially well known for its exclusive shops, cafés and restaurants frequented by local youth and business people. Many top Turkish and world brands 12 W H E R E İ S TA N B U L I J U LY 2011 have at least one shop here. Particularly by-streets are swarming with small boutiques that are full of surprises. Well served by public transportation, this bustling street with its chic restaurants and cafes is an excellent place to go window shopping and people watching, especially on weekends. Off map. COVERED GRAND BAZAARBuilt in 1461, this amazing complex, the world’s oldest shopping center, is a colossal maze taking in 66 streets and 4,000 stores— all covered. An indispensible part of a proper İstanbul tour, each street in the Bazaar is named after the specific guild that once inhabited it, such as the Kalpak Makers, Jewellers, Mirror Makers, etc. This is the place for hand-woven carpets, jewellery, traditional Turkish art, famous Turkish style silverware, copper, bronze giftware and decorative objects, ceramics, onyx, leather products and souvenirs from all over Turkey. Mon-Sat 8:30am-7pm. www.kapalicarsi.org.tr. Beyazıt-Eminönü. E4. ÇUKURCUMAWorld-renowned for its antique shops, this area has the atmosphere of an old Ottoman neighbourhood. Antique shops are scattered through the streets. Mon-Sat 9am19:30pm. www.cukurcuma.net. Çukurcuma Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references in bold at the end of each listing (A1; B5 etc) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 62-63. INFORMATION Visitors should note that Value Added Tax (VAT) varies between 8% and 18% and is generally included in the price of goods. Overseas visitors can shop tax-free in Turkey recouping around 5 to 13% of these amounts, respectively. Look for shops with signs for Global Refund (T: 0212 232 1121) and DSD Refund (T: 0212 546 0790). Cad. Çukurcuma Cami Sok. Altıpatlar Sok. Faik Paşa Cad. Turnacıbaşı Sok. Bostancıbaşı Sok. T: 0505 709 3857. C5. EGYPTIAN BAZAAR SPICE MARKETAlongside the New Mosque (Yeni Cami) and next to the Flower Market, the Egyptian Bazaar is Shopping Turkish Designer Stores A46Stylish brand and destinations for women who want to remain elegant both day and night. www.a46.com.tr. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 44/A, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 233 2398. ARZU KAPROLArzu Kaprol couture reflects femininity, comfort and private use. www.arzukaprol.net. Teşvikiye Cad. Atiye Sok. 53/2, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 225 0129. BAHAR KORÇAN World-renowned designer Bahar Koçan uses handwoven silk, Japanese wool textiles, organic cotton and bamboo fiber plaits. www.baharkorcan.org. Serdar Ekrem Sok. Seraskerci Çıkmazı, Ferah Apt. 5, Galata, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 293 6855. CENGİZ ABAZOĞLUStarting as a designer of leather and ready-to-wear brands, this designer then opened his own workshop where he features his haute couture collections. His first boutique in Nişantaşı. www.cengizabazoglu.net. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 20/A, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 234 5242. CLOSHThis boutique specializes in ready-to-wear and wedding gowns for customers. www.closhboutique.com. Atiye Sok. 2, Teşvikiye. T: 0212 258 5756. DİLEK HANİFThe first Turkish designer to present her own couture collection at Paris Haute Couture fashion week. Maçka Cad. Ralli Apt. 59/2, Teşvikiye. T: 0212 219 3723-24. ELAİDİElaidi is a design-oriented brand established in 2000 in İstanbul by designer Mehtap Elaidi. www.elaidi.net Teşvikiye Cad. 11 B, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 231 0508. ELİF CIGIZOĞLUIntroduces volume even to the most classic garments with the added origamic details. www.elifcigizoglu.com. Teşvikiye Cad. Alhamra Apt. 178/3, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 296 0012. ETCETURA EZRA+TUBAThemes of sophisticated simplicity drive the collections and reflect versatile and trend-setting ideas embedded in intelligent complimentary pieces using the latest innovations in fabric technology and production. www.etcetura.com. Karakol Bostan Sok. 13/5, Teşvikiye. T: 0212 327 1255. HAKAN YILDIRIMThis up-and-coming designer has won worldwide acclaim and extensive coverage in international press for his creations. www.hakanyildirim.com.tr. Abdi İpekçi Cad. Pekinok Apt. 23/3 Nişantaşı. T: 0212 248 4680. İPEK KRAMERİpek Kramer is an important brand in haute couture nightwear in Turkey. www.ipekkiramer.com. Nispetiye Cad. Akmerkez Shopping Centre 363, Etiler. T: 0212 282 0143. GÖNÜL PAKSOYCreativity that bears the marks of Turkish culture and history. From clothes to accessories, shawls, pillows and slippers, all of her designs are unique, special and reflective of her inner world. Atiye Sok. 6/A, Teşvikiye. T: 0212 261 9081. LAUNDROMATOpened by Yasemin Özeri and Öykü Thurston in Kuledibi, Galata, this venue adopts a store-within-a-store concept, offering a unique experience for design enthusiasts. Felt, leather, paper and silk garments, shoes, handbags and home accessories. Galip Dede Cad. 93/B, Kuledibi, Galata. T: 0212 249 9892. MACHKAA symbol of noble and post-romantic elegance with its collections inc ready-to-wear for women. www.machka.com.tr. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 29/2, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 219 1936. RAŞİT BAĞZIBAĞLIRaşit Bağzıbağlı-In addition to his achievements as a haute couture designer, Raşit Bağzıbağlı is also on his way to transforming his ready-wear brand B. Rushh into a global brand. www.rasitbagzibagli.com. Bağdat Cad. Divan Apt. 35/2, Erenköy. T: 0216 411 6010. ÜMİT ÜNALKnown for his emphasis on the story and concept of his collections rather than their silhouettes. www.umitunal.com. Asmalımescit Mah. Ensiz Sok. 1/B, Tünel, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 245 7886. 14 W H E R E İ S TA N B U L I J U LY 2011 SHOPPING CENTRE MAP one of the oldest covered bazaars in İstanbul, renowned for its herbalists. In addition to spices, Turkish delights (lokum), and other souvenirs, natural medicines, herbs, flower seeds, roots and barks of rare plants used in traditional medicine as well as a vast selection of dried nuts, delicatessen products and other food items are available. A great stop on the way to Sultanahmet Square. Mon-Sat 8:30am-6:30pm. Eminönü Square. E4. İSTİKLAL STREET In the historical district of Beyoğlu, which was the primary neighbourhood of the foreign community as well as non-Muslim Ottoman subjects, Beyoğlu gradually attained a European look with the arrival of foreign embassies as well as Christians from Galata, eventually forming a new community in 17thcentury İstanbul. As foreign trade in the Empire reached unprecedented levels in the 19th century, Beyoğlu and İstiklal Street–then known as the Grand Rue de Pera- reached their heyday, and acquired a developed transportation system. The allure of the street faded in the 1970s but was followed by major revival in early 1990s. It is now a the city’s major entertainment district, full of bars, clubs, cafés, restaurants, and scores of top shopping brands. C5. NİŞANTAŞINişantaşı is both a lively and bustling neighbourhood and an area known for its exclusive shopping centres, brand-name stores, malls and galleries. With its national and international brands, pleasant cafes and restaurants and quality nightlife, it is a favourite area especially with İstanbul’s elite crowd. Nişantaşı lies at busy hub of several major streets (the busiest of which are Teşvikiye, Valikonağı and Rumeli Avenues) and it’s easy to get to, a quick dolmuş (minibüs) ride from Taksim Square. A6. Shopping Centres ADDRESİSTANBULWith a host of leading Turkish and foreign home furnishing and houseware stores offering, hundreds of brands, this shopping centre has everything you need to decorate an entire flat in a single day. Take a break for a delicious treat at Kitchenette Restaurant, and enjoy live music on Sundays. Daily 10am-7pm. www.addresistanbul.com. Halide Edip Adıvar Bulvarı Mah., Çiftecevizler Deresi Sok. 4, Şişli. T: 0212 320 6262. Off map. AKMERKEZOffering the best local and foreign brands in an elegant shopping atmosphere as well as an array of entertainment and social venues, Joker Entertainment Park promises a good time for children and adults alike. Papermoon, located at the Ulus entrance, serves Italian cuisine. Daily 10am-10pm. www.akmerkez.com.tr. Nispetiye Cad. Etiler. T: 0212 282 0170. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). ASTORIALocated in the business and social centre of Esentepe, Astoria hosts worldrenowned brands in its unique design including 48m-high twin atriums designed to provide ample daylight. In addition to 110 stores, it offers cafés, gourmet markets, and restaurants offering superb flavours of Turkish and world cuisines. Daily 10am-10pm. www.astoria.com.tr. Büyükdere Cad. 127, Esentepe. T: 0212 215 2222. Off map. ATAKÖY PLUSAtaköy Plus Shopping Centre is open to exploration with an architectural aesthetics, spacious circulation spaces, and special services that make shopping an insatiable experience. Situated on the coastal road only five minutes from the Atatürk International Airport, Ataköy Plus offers 140 brands also including Fred Perry and CK as well as stores such as Batik where you can find original designs. www.atakoyplus.com. Daily 10am-10pm. Adnan Kahveci Bulvarı Ataköy 6. Kısım Ataköy, Bakırköy. T: 0212 661 7515. Off map. CAPACITYFour-storey shopping centre with 180 stores carrying Turkish and foreign brands. Sephora, Banana Republic, Gap and many more brands cater to a vast range of tastes while Electro World serves technology-savvy Shopping customers. Fast food, restaurants and movie theaters. Daily 10am-10pm. www.capacity.com.tr. Zeytinlik Mah. Fişekhane Cad. 7, Bakırköy. T: 0212 661 6705. Off map. KANYONMajor shopping centre with 160 stores, 9 movie theatres and a health and sports club. Pleasant atmosphere offering the best Turkish and world brands, gourmet restaurants, cafés, open air performances and dazzling colours and sounds. Restaurants and cafés in Kanyon offer early breakfasts and late dinners. Daily 10am-10pm. www.kanyon.com.tr. Büyükdere Cad. 185, Levent. T: 0212 353 5300. CAPITOL Major shopping and entertainment centre with stores, restaurants and fourteen movie theatres. Various activities organised every week. Daily 10am-10pm. www.capitol.com.tr. Mahir İz Cad. Altunizade, Üsküdar. T: 0216 554 7777. Off map. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). METRO CITYAccessible by subway, this shopping CEVAHİRThis 10-storey mall offers world brands centre offering world brands, restaurants, and book stores is also popular for its regular events. Beymen Club and Vakko stores offer top-line smart and smart-casual men’s and women’s clothing. Daily 10am-10pm. www.metrocity.com.tr. Büyükdere Cad. 171, 1. Levent. T: 0212 344 0660. in 343 stores as well as the latest feature films, fine foods and play areas. Entertainment centre features traditional Turkish theatre. Daily 10am-10pm. www.istanbulcevahir.com.tr. Büyükdere Cad. 22, Şişli. T: 0212 368 6900. Off map. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). CITY’SCity’s Nişantaşı is a centre of fashion and PALLADIUMLargest shopping centre in style. Leading national and international brands, delightful cafés and restaurants, dazzling architecture. Entertainment for children and 7 movie theatres. Citylife’s cinema foyer with its peerless sea view adds to the pleasure. The fun lasts late into the evening. Daily 10am-10pm. www.citysnisantasi.com. Teşvikiye Cad. 162, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 373 3333. A6. İstanbul’s Asian side. In addition to 170 large stores, movie theatres and an excellent food court, it also includes a 32-storey residence. Its inspiring architecture includes a colossal glass hemisphere for a roof. The chic mall also houses world-renowned brands including Marks&Spencer, C&A, Banana Republic, and Zara. Daily 10am-10pm. www.palladium.com.tr. Barbaros Mah. Halk Cad. 8/B, Yeni Sahra, Kozyatağı. T: 0216 663 1500. Off map. DEMİRÖREN SHOPPING CENTREOpened upon the renovation of the Sin-Em Han, home in the 1930 to the famous Saray pudding shop and the Lüks cinema, this 25,000 square metre venue is home to a host of famous shops including Sephora, Brandroom, the Satürn technology chain, the Gap and Atasun Optik. İstiklal Cad. 52-54, Beyoğlu. C5. SAPPHIREAt 261 metres high, İstanbul Sapphire is the latest shopping mall combined with residential building; it’s also Turkey’s first ‘green’ structure, and one of few such buildings in the world. Combining western, traditional and modern architecture, Sapphire presents a modern shopping experience with prestigious world brands and entertainment. Daily 10am-10pm. www.istanbulsapphire.com. Büyükdere Cad, 4. Levent. T: 0212 444 5111. GALLERIAA major shopping centre featuring world brands as well as a broad range of restaurants, entertainment, sports activities and striking interiors. The ice ring is a special draw for young people. Daily 10am-10pm. www.galleria-atakoy.com. Sahilyolu, Ataköy. T: 0212 559 9560. Off map. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). TEPE NAUTILUSWith a nautical theme, this stylish shopping centre offers 40 international and 70 national brands, 8 movie theatres, a bowling alley, cafés and restaurants. Situated in central Kadıköy, it’s ideal for one-stop shopping on the Asian side, particularly in sports and casual wear with stores including Adidas, Sport Point, Nike and Dockers available. Daily 10am-10pm. www.tepenautilus.com. Fatih Cad. 1, Acıbadem, Kadıköy. T: 0216 339 3929. Off map. İSTİNYEPARKIn addition to the top brands this shopping centre offers, it stands out with its architecture. Designed to cater to a host of tastes and needs, it demonstrates a distinct concept with 147 clothing stores and 43 world brands. Various theme areas including Brands Street, Nostalgic Marketplace and Children’s Entertainment Centre in addition to nearly 40 cafés and restaurants, and 12 movie theatres inc a 3D IMAX screen. Daily 10am-10pm. www.istinyepark.com. İstinye Bayırı Cad. İstinye. T: 0212 345 5555. VIAPORTLocated at the Sabiha Gökçen Juncture Shopping Centre Map (p.16). FORUM İSTANBULIn addition to shopping, Forum İstanbul offers an extensive choice of leisure activities. At the top of the list of attractions is Turkuazoo, Turkey's first and biggest aquarium, and Magic Ice Museum, the only ice museum in the country. The mall also boasts a 10-screen movie theatre, a game and entertainment centre, bowling alley, play spaces for children and a host of dining choices. Look out for the newest addition: Jurassic Land, an 8000-m2 family entertainment centre set due to open later this year. Daily 10am-10pm. www.forumistanbul.com.tr. Kocatepe Mah. Paşa Cad. Bayrampaşa. T: 0212 443 1350. Shopping Centre Map (p.14). We are the creator of Sarah Jessica Parker’s necklace from the Sex and The City II movie. SHOWROOM !"#$%&'()*$%+,#-%.$/%!'0-%.123454%.$6,70,689%&:0,7";/% <2%=343%34>3?4@% BODRUM A$B,7%C0(/%D(/(6%E,F8G%+,#-%.12H% <,6"$7,%IJ/0KF)"K)K%L1#F;G9%M;N/,% <2%=3@3%O??@@=H% PPP-Q,:$,-R1G-0F at the intersection of the İstanbul Park Road and Trans-European Motorway (TEM), VIA/ PORT boasts 175 stores. World-renowned brand outlets include Vakko, Lacoste, Calvin Klein, Beymen, İpekyol, Roman, Abercrombie, NeoFly, Network, Gant, Adidas and Nike. The centre also features an amusement park, go carts, a forest tour on ATV, pony rides, 5D cinema and much more. www.viaport.com.tr. Off map. Accessories ELA CİNDORUK & NAZAN PAKEarrings, necklaces, bracelets, brooches, pendants and cufflinks designed by Ela Cindoruk and Nazan Pak. In addition to gold and silver, accessories made of pearls, plastic and polyester also available. Atiye Sok. 14/5, Teşvikiye. T: 0212 232 2664. A6. J U LY 2011 I W H E R E İ S TA N B U L 15 Shopping SHOPPING CENTRE MAP Carpets ÇINAR HALIÇınar Halı offers a full array of classic, modern and post-modern patterns to suit interiors of all styles. Completely a product of Turkish labour and artisanship, each hand-woven carpet reflects the brand’s quality. Mon-Sat 9am6pm. www.cinarhali.com.tr. Nuruosmaniye Cad. 83, Cağaloğlu. T: 0212 513 8317. E4. EĞİNCİThe product of three generations of expertise in the carpet business, Eğinci offers a splendid collection of pure silk, wool, and woolon-cotton rugs as well as choice antique kilims and rugs from various regions of Turkey. Wide selection of oversize rugs also available. Mon-Sat 9am-7pm. Mimar Mehmetağa Cad. 24, Sultanahmet. T: 0212 517 7467. F5. GÜNEŞ ÖZTARAKÇI CARPET & KİLİM HOUSEThe first and only carpet store owned by a woman, this place offers new as well as antique and old carpets and rugs. Beyond mere functionality, rugs offer artistic excellence in the richness and elegance of their patterns and colours. Silk carpets also available. Mon-Sat 9.30am-7pm. www.gunescarpet.com. Mim Kemal Öke Cad. 5, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 225 1954. A6. HAKAN EVİN CARPETConsistently providing the highest quality service and products, Hakan has long been the top choice of American government officials, and has hosted American presidents and world leaders for more than a decade. Its Oriental Carpets originate from traditional rug-weaving areas in the world, such as Turkey, Iran, Central Asia, Western China, and India. Though all the regions share a history of carpet-making, not all the products are of the same high quality; Turkish carpets are doubleknotted which makes them more durable. Mon-Sat 9am-7pm. www.hakanevin.com. Divrikli Sok. 57, Grand Bazaar, Eminönü. T: 0212 512 7463. E4. ÖRGE TULGAThis artist uses 18 carat gold, 925 carat silver, semi-precious stones and natural materials in her designs, which are enlivened by diamonds, coloured sapphires and tourmaline. By appointment only. www.orgetulga.com. Nuruosmaniye Cad. Alibaba Türbesi Sok. 21/22, Çemberlitaş. T: 0212 519 5175. E4. TAKIL PERASaadet Keskin started her jewellery store back in 1976 in Beşiktaş, and later moved to Tünel under the name Takıl Pera. She works exclusively with special designers to select her unique collection that blends tradition with class. Tünel Geçidi İşhanı 1/B, C Blok, Tünel, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 292 1792. C5. YARGICI ACCESSORIES One of the strongest Turkish fashion brands, Yargıcı’s collections are both trendy and elegant, featuring genuine and unique pieces. Daily 10am-10pm. www.yargici.com.tr. Büyükdere Cad. 185, Kanyon Shopping Centre B2, Levent. T: 0212 353 5300. Off map. ZEYNEP EROLThis artist works with a variety of semi-precious stones to make a vast range of accessories inc earrings, rings, bracelets, necklaces, cufflinks, wristlets and much more. Mon-Sat 10am-6:30pm. www.zeyneperol.net. Atiye Sok. Yuva Apt. 8/3, Teşvikiye. T: 0212 236 4668. A6. 16 W H E R E İ S TA N B U L I J U LY 2011 Bookstores D&ROffers a broad selection of books, music, films, electronics, games, gifts and stationary in a modern and relaxed atmosphere, with 45 stores throughout İstanbul. Check website for the nearest store. Daily 10am-10pm. www.dr.com.tr. Büyükdere Cad. 185, Kanyon Shopping Centre K:1, 179, Levent. T: 0212 353 0870. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). PANDORA BEYOĞLUBookstore located in Beyoğlu's Büyükparmakkapı street, carrying 50,000 books inc 2,000 on Turkey. Broad range of subjects inc art, archaeology, literature, cooking and leisure. An especially good source of books in English. Mon-Wed 10am-8pm, Thu-Sat 10am-9pm, Sun 1pm-8pm. www.pandora.com.tr. İstiklal Cad. Büyükparmakkapı Sok. 3, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 243 3503. C5. REMZİ KİTABEVİBooks in both Turkish and English are available in this bookstore, which also includes a café. Turkish and foreign daily periodicals, CDs, DVDs, VCDs, Turkish, foreign magazines and gifts also available. Eight stores throughout İstanbul; check website for the closest store. Mon-Sat 9am-9pm. www.remzi.com.tr. Rumeli Cad. 44, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 234 5475. A6. HAS HALIWith several stores throughout Turkey and the world, and its Pera, Museum, Ottoman and Seraph collections, this is popular with wellknown politicians and businessmen. Mon-Sat 9:30am-7:30pm, Sun 11.30am-7pm. www.hashali.com. Fulya Terrace, Hakkı Yeten Cad. 14, M2, Fulya, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 444 2427. Off map. LOOMARTWhen it comes to aesthetics, LoomArt is committed to the best in carpet design. Its huge collection includes unusual antique pieces from Kerman, Konya and Tabriz (Iran), funky contemporary pieces with bold designs and bright colours, and woven kilims. Quality is paramount here; some of its larger creations have even graced the interiors of such places including the Pera Palace Hotel, and residence of the President of Turkey! www.loomart.com. T: 0212 252 5095. At the boutiques floor of The Ritz-Carlton. B6. METREKARE RUG ARTIn addition to Turkish rugs such as Kotan, Memlük, and Uşak, this venue also offers Odegard, Jan Kath, Nepalese rugs, antique Oriental hand-woven rugs and the modern Woven Legend collections. Mon-Sat 9am-7pm. www.metrekare.net. Maçka Cad. 33/3, Maçka. T: 0212 343 9732. A6. NAKKAŞIn İstanbul's old Sultanahmet district, there's a truly remarkable store: Nakkaş. Built over a beautifully restored 6-century Shopping Byzantine cistern, Nakkaş offers fine wearings, ceramics and jewellery in the tradition of quality crafts manship. A visit to this column-filled cistern is the first step to an exciting shopping adventure. Mon-Sat 9am-6pm. www.nakkasrug.com. Nakilbent Sok. 33, Sultanahmet. T: 0212 516 5222. F4 / F5. ERMENEGILDO ZEGNAThe brand offers two distinct lines inc Zegna Sport and Z Zegna. Particularly the environmentally friendly Oasi Zegna Cashmere jumpers in basic colours appeal to both sight and touch. www.zegna.com. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 15/A, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 241 6500. A6. ŞENGÖR CARPETOne of the oldest carpet dealers in the Covered Bazaar, this shop offers classical hand-woven carpets as well as other products crafted in various regions of Anatolia. Grand Bazaar, Takkeciler Sok. 65. Eminönü. T: 0212 527 2197. E4. FRED PERRYHaving made its name in the fashion world as a tennis-clothing brand, Fred Perry continues its classic designs as well as new creations inc slim-fit shirt selections in predominantly dark tones, long sleeved t-shirts, classic 3-stripe shirts and dual colour poplin T-shirts. Daily 10am-10pm. www.fredperry.com. İstinye Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre L351, İstinye. T: 0212 345 5432. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). Clothing – Children B&G STOREOwn product range featuring collections from leading global brands in children’s clothing inc Patrizia Pepe, Bogner, Zu+Elements, Bikkembergs, Mariella Burani, Nebati bb, Baby Graziella, Phard Bebe, Killah, Riccione. Daily 10am-10pm. www.bgstore.com.tr. Forum İstanbul, Kocatepe Mah. Paşa Cad. Bayrampaşa. Tel: 0212 640 6978. Off map. GANTCombining traditional American style with European mastery, Gant has proved its reputation as one of the finest shirt brands for 60 years, particularly with its Hugger, Pullover, Cashmere and Rugger lines. Daily 10am-10pm. www.gant.com. Büyükdere Cad. 185, Kanyon Shopping Centre B2, Levent. T: 0212 353 5414. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). GAP KIDS&BABY Latest in children’s and toddlers’ clothing. Daily 10am-10pm. www.gap.com. Büyükdere Cad. 185, Kanyon Shopping Centre B1, Levent. T: 0212 353 5205. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). KID’S STORY Garments and accessories for the 0-16 age group. Knitwear, shoes, shirts, jackets, socks, hats and berets. Products by leading brands inc Burberry, Donna Karan, Nolita, Bon Point, Monalisa, Roberto Cavalli & Simonetta also available. Daily 10am-10pm. Nispetiye Cad. Akmerkez Shopping Centre 185, Etiler. T: 0212 282 0146. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). HUGO BOSSBringing together modern Antique pocket watch collection MOTHERCAREEssential store for discerning fashion with its simple yet stylish collection stands out with its casual, smart designs ideal for business life. Daily 10am-10pm. www.giorgioarmani.com. İstinye Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre 518, İstinye. T: 0212 345 6110. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). NEST BY MOZAİK Environmentally friendly, healthy and timeless designs offering a fun way to introduce children to design and architecture. The long list of offerings includes special children’s furniture, strollers, toys, clothing, accessories and more. Chairs by Fritz Hansen, toys by Keith Haring, strollers by Stokke and Bugaboo and clothing by Amelia are among the signature brands. www.nestbymozaik.com. Daily 10am-10pm. Büyükdere Cad. 185, Kanyon Shopping Centre B2, Levent. T: 0212 353 0913. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). BANANA REPUBLICLuxury brand with stylish essentials and sophisticated seasonal collections for men and women. Mon-Sat 10:30am-7pm. www.bananarepublic.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 6/8 B, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 241 6732. A6. BİLSTOREBrings together selected products from special brands in a fresh, new approach to retailing. Mon-Sat 11am-8pm. www.bilstore.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 10, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 234 0662. A6. Clothing – Men BLENDERBlender has become the meeting point of style. Famous faces from the world of design and fashion join the fun at Blender. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. www.blender.com.tr. Bostan Sok. Nişantaşı. T: 0212 373 4800. A6. BRIONIBrioni is universally recognized as the DAMATThe Damat Collection’s main fabric line consists of specially woven, environmentally friendly, wool and wool blend Bio-Tech fabrics that are both sophisticated and eye-catching. Daily 10am-10pm. www.damat.com.tr. Büyükdere Cad. 127, Astoria Shopping Centre, Esentepe. T: 0212 215 2616. Off map. Clothing – Men & Women ARMANIThe miraculous Italian line that shapes parents and parents-to-be offering anything and everything for babies. Mon-Sat 10am-10pm. www.mothercare.com. Forum İstanbul, Kocatepe Mah. Paşa Cad. Bayrampaşa. Tel: 0212 437 0514. Off map. most luxurious brand in men’s fashion. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.brioni.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 17, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 343 0038. A6. accessories and casual and sporty lines, Hugo Boss offers endless choices inc ready-wear, watches, accessories, lingerie, bodycare products and more, under lines including its Boss Black, Boss Orange, Boss Green and Boss Selection. Daily 10am-10pm. www.hugoboss.com. İstinye Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre 339/468, İstinye. T: 0212 219 9445. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). SHOWROOM BURBERRYClothing for women, men, children !"#$%&'()*$%+,#-%.$/%!'0-%.123454%.$6,70,689%&:0,7";/% <2%=343%34>3?4@% and babies inc a winning mix of classic and funky raincoats, separates and accessories. Mon-Sat 10am-10pm. www.burberry.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 5, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 241 5516. A6. BODRUM A$B,7%C0(/%D(/(6%E,F8G%+,#-%.12H% <,6"$7,%IJ/0KF)"K)K%L1#F;G9%M;N/,% <2%=3@3%O??@@=H% PPP-Q,:$,-R1G-0F CACHARELOffers a brand universe through many collections of glasses, lingerie, jewellery, watches, linens and home entertainment. J U LY 2011 I W H E R E İ S TA N B U L 17 SHOP STOP TIFFANY & CO Number one jeweller in America and worldwide with its bewitching collection and groundbreaking designs. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 65, Maçka. T: 0212 232 0742. SHOP STOP GÖNÜL PAKSOY A blend of creativity and Turkish tradition. Striking clothing, accessory and home textile designs. Atiye Sok. 6/A, Teşvikiye. T: 0212 261 9081. SHOP STOP KOÇ DERİ Established in 1968 and manufacturing for world brands, this is the most famous store in the Grand Bazaar. Atiye Sok. 1/A, Teşvikiye. T: 0212 258 5911-12. 18 W H E R E İ S TA N B U L I J U LY 2011 TEŞVİKİYE, ATİYE SOKAK Daily 10am-10pm. www.cacharel-tr.com. Nispetiye Cad. Akmerkez Shopping Centre 230, Etiler. T: 0212 282 2656-57. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). CALVIN KLEIN Calvin Klein’s 2010 Autumn/Winter Collection features designs with sharp lines. Sequin shift dresses with bat wing sleeves sit alongside cleverly adorned dresses with beads and sequins. Daily 10am-10pm. www.calvinkleininc.com. İstinye Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre 35, İstinye. T: 0212 345 5804. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). DOCKERSSynonymous with comfortable and stylish living, Dockers has created its collection for men seeking both comfort and style. Shoes that merge both classic and sporty lines stand out in its 2010 Autumn/Winter Collection. They are suitable for both business and leisure. Daily 10am-10pm. http://eu.dockers.com.tr. İstinye Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre, İstinye. T: 0212 345 5188. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). DOLCE GABBANAMetropolitan glamour; an eclectic and contemporary brand. The expression of a changing world. www.dolcegabbana.com. Bağdat Cad. Vapur Yolu Sok. Erseven Apt. 412, 1/1, Suadiye. T: 0216 658 6424. Off map. EMPORIO ARMANI Italy’s most famous fashion brand, Emporio Armani offers ready-to-wear, jewellery, lingerie, glasses and watches while renewing itself with the appealing and unique designs of its EA07 watch and Kaka jean creations. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.emporioarmani.com. Maçka Cad. Maçka Palas 33/B, Teşvikiye. T: 0212 233 0666. A6. FAÇONNABLE Classic French apparel, watches, shoes, fragrances and accessories for men and women designed with the sprit of the Cote d’Azur. Mon-Sat 10am-7:30pm, Sun 1pm7:30pm. www.facconable.com. Bağdat Cad. Burhan Bey Apt. 447/A, Suadiye. T: 0216 416 1832. Off map. GAP Reflecting American style with its sporty and casual garments, Gap offers a multitude of jeans, blazers, t-shirts, sweatshirts, underwear, bags, belts, wallets and headgear. Daily 10am-10pm. www.gap.com. İstinye Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre K:-1/38, İstinye. T: 0212 345 6223. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). GIANFRANCO FERRESleek and stylish collection of high-end clothing for men and women. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.gianfrancoferre.com. Teşvikiye Cad. 162, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 373 2250. A6. GUCCI Italian fashion brand with shoes, handbags, luggage, leather goods, furs, a ready-to-wear collection and much more. Daily 10am-7pm. www.gucci.com. Maçka Cad. Maçka Palas 33/C, Teşvikiye. T: 0212 225 2080. A6. H&M Operating in cities around the world since 1947, H&M offers fashionable, quality products for men, women and children at attractive prices, and also stocks attractive local textiles. Daily 10am-10pm. Forum İstanbul, Kocatepe Mah. Paşa Cad. Bayrampaşa. T: 0212 640 9455. Off map. J U LY 2011 I W H E R E İ S TA N B U L 19 Shopping SPOTLIGHT introducing new trends for men and women. Mon-Sat 8:30am-8pm. www.network-tr.com. Teşvikiye Cad. 103, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 236 6579. A6. QUE Designs by Arzu Kaprol and Mehmet Acar allow bold and versatile expression to men and women comfortable with their bodies. Daily 10am-10pm. www.que.com.tr. İstinye Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre 41, İstinye. T: 0212 345 5981. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). RALPH LAUREN Athletic and inspiring garments, coats and jackets give the feeling of an American holiday. Ralph Lauren offers unique choices for lovers of the classics with its Purple Label and Black Label lines and more casual selections with Polo Ralph Lauren. Daily 10am-0pm. www.ralphlauren.com. İstinye Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre 58, İstinye. T: 0212 345 7012. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). SARAR Major Turkish menswear brand with 62 years of experience, Sarar offers fine, smart clothing for men and women, highly preferred in business life. Mon-Sat 9:30am-8:30pm, Sun 12pm-6pm. www.sarar.com.tr. Rumeli Cad. 54/A, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 232 0804. A6. TOMMY HILFIGER This famous American brand Traditions From By Gone Centuries Lotus İznik Ceramics offers modern designs based firmly on traditional secrets of Turkish handmade ceramics and pottery. Combining a 21st-century touch with historic methods, the store creates top-quality handmade Turkish ceramics and tiles. Each piece is custom commissioned to local world-calibre artists, and bears the signature of its maker (p. 24). JEAN PAUL GAULTIER Best known for its perfumes, this famous French brand also offers fine shoes and leather products. In its 2010 Autumn/Winter Collection, JPG is inspired from the styles in 25 countries, from Mexico to Uzbekistan. Daily 10am-10pm. www.jeanpaulgaultier.com. Teşvikiye Cad. 162, City’s Shopping Centre G, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 373 2151. A6. LACOSTEThis distinguished brand from France maintains its line under its Club and Sport models. Autumn/Winter creation presents the borders of iconic sportswear in natural colours and comfortable and sophisticated stylishness. Daily 10am-10pm. www.lacoste.com. Büyükdere Cad. 171, Metro City Shopping Centre G, 1. Levent. T: 0212 344 0272. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). LORO PIANA Known throughout the world for its high-end cashmere and wool garments, Loro Piana is an indispensible brand for both men and women who enjoy travelling and outdoor sports and never compromise on style and comfort. Daily 10am-10pm. www.loropiano.com. İstinye Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre 483, İstinye. T: 0212 345 6582. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). 20 W H E R E İ S TA N B U L I J U LY 2011 MASSIMO DUTTIThe perennial choice of those unwilling to compromise on their appearance in a busy and fast-paced business life. Daily 10am-10pm. Nispetiye Cad. Akmerkez Shopping Centre 211, Etiler. T: 0212 282 0939. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). MAVİAddressing a vast range of tastes in jeans and casual clothing, this world-renowned Turkish brand also offers exclusive concept products for special occasions. Daily 10am-10pm. www.mavi.com. Nispetiye Cad. Akmerkez Shopping Centre 235, Etiler. T: 0212 282 0423. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). MOSCHINO Holds an important place on the international fashion stage thanks to its history and consistent quality. The Moschino, Moschino Cheap, Chic and Love Moschino collections make their mark by expressing creativity; transforming irony and elegance into strength by reinterpreting the classics. Daily 10am-10pm. www.moschino.com. İstinye Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre 53, İstinye. T: 0212 335 6770. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). NETWORK Network is a global brand inspired by the multicultural character of the 21st century, once again offers colourful alternatives in sports and casual wear. The choice of celebrities like Britney Spears, Will Smith, Hilary Swank and Cameron Diaz, the brand maintains its classic and simple lines this season as well. Mon-Sat 9am-9pm. www.tommy.com. Bağdat Cad. 447/1, Suadiye. T: 0216 372 4655. Off map. TOP SHOPYou’ll find the Kate Moss and Celia Birtwell collections in this London-based store in addition to maternity, mini and vintage ranges. Personal shopping at affordable prices. There is a men’s section as well. Mon-Sat 10am9pm, Sun 12pm-7pm. www.topshop.com.tr. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 2, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 291 1520. A6. ZARASpanish brand offering men’s, women’s and children’s clothing. Some of its stores, inc Zara Home, feature home furnishings and accessories. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm, Sun 1pm-8pm. www.zara.com. Teşvikiye Cad. 41, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 291 7971. A6. Clothing - Women ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Known for both the emotional power and raw energy of its fashion shows as well as the romantic but determinedly contemporary nature of its collections. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.alexandermcqueen.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 21, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 232 2004. A6. BRANDROOM Offers apparel for all occasions by select brands inc Balmain, Alexander Wang, Versace, Diane Von Furstenberg, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Salvatore Ferragamo, Tom Ford, MCQ, Catherine Malandrino, Ashish, Emilio Pucci, Thomas Wylde, Paul & Joe, See by Chloe, Vivienne Westwood Anglomania and Helmut Lang, as well as broad selection of cosmetics. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm, Sun 12pm-8pm. www.demsagroup.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. Polat Palas 63, Maçka. T: 0216 361 6911. A6. Shopping BCBG MAX AZRIA The choice of many Hollywood celebrities such as Paris Hilton, Carmen Electra, Eva Mendes and Sharon Stone, Max Azria caters to women who prefer a modern style. Extensive product offers casual wear to evening dresses, shoes and handbags. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. www.bcbgmaxazriagroup.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. Bostan Sok. 4, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 241 2242. A6. BOTTEGA VENETA Comfortable, quality footwear and handbag designs offering elegance and luxury. Mon-Sat 10am-10pm. www.bottegaveneta.com. İstinye Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre, İstinye. T: 0212 335 6790. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). CHANEL World-renowned French brand Chanel offers a wide range of products from readywear to accessories, beauty products and watches. Chanel counts Nicole Kidman, Victoria Beckham, Lily Allen, Catherine Denevue and Audrey Tautou among its celebrity clients. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Abdi İpekçi Cad. Nazen Apt. Maçka. T: 0212 368 6300. A6. CHLOE Named for its warm, feminine appeal, and in perfect synch with the mood of Paris. Youthful, modern design. Daily 10am-10pm. www.chloe.com. İstinye Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre 55, İstinye. T: 0212 335 6782. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). DIOR Highly distinguished world brand with John Galliano’s haute couture, men’s-women’s prêt-à-porter, home decoration, skin product and jewellery designs, Dior’s perfumes are also the choice of top. Daily 10am-10pm. www.dior.com. İstinye Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre 478, İstinye. T: 0212 345 5930. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). DKNY Broad selection of sweaters, jeans, pants, dresses, skirts, and jackets for women and men. Mon-Sat 10:30am-5:30pm. www.dkny.com. Teşvikiye Cad. Bostan Sok. Murat Apt. 7, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 259 0804. A6. ESCADA Prestigious international fashion house offering luxury apparel, accessories and fragrance collections for daytime, weekends and evenings. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.escada.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 25/1, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 247 8483. A6. FENDI Italian fashion dynasty with shoes, furs, leather goods, a ready–to-wear collection and ever-fabulous handbags. Daily 10am-10pm. www.fendi.com. İstinye Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre 49, İstinye. T: 0212 345 6076. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). GUESS Known for its innovative style, Guess continues to dress and accessorize the world with fashion-forward apparels, handbags, watches, shoes and more. Daily 10am-10pm. www.guess.com. Nispetiye Cad. Akmerkez Shopping Centre 349/350, Etiler. T: 0212 282 1254-55. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). HOME STORE Caters to the tastes and preferences of all age groups with its ready-to- wear line reflecting the latest in fashion. Brands include UGG-Australia, Project E, Infinity, Dalia, Lauren Vidal, Massimo Trulli, Tomassini, Melissa, Rucoline, and Sir Alistair Rai. Daily 10am10pm. www.homestore.com.tr. Nispetiye Cad. Akmerkez Shopping Centre 192, Etiler. T: 0212 282 0253-54. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). İKON VINTAGE&TODAYTurkish brand popular for its highly stylish offerings, uniting past and present with its special collection and garments from around the world. Mon-Sat 10:30am8pm, Firuzağa Mah. Bostanbaşı Cad. 15/A, Galatasaray, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 251 0677 0532 442 5043. C5. İPEKYOL Unique and modern designs suitable both for professional and everyday life, with an emphasis on distinct styles for women. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm, Sun 12pm-6pm. www.ipekyol.com.tr. Bağdat Cad. Meltem Apt. 439, Suadiye. T: 0216 410 3032. Off map. LOUIS VUITTON Ready-to-wear dresses as well as bags and accessories from the famous monogrammed leather by Marc Jacobs. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. www.louisvuitton.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 23, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 246 6975. A6. MANGOSpanish clothing chain, trendy and up- to–date. Daily 10am-10pm. www.mango.com. Nispetiye Cad. Akmerkez Shopping Centre 192, Etiler. T: 0212 282 2223. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). SPOTLIGHT Cleaning Up Your Act Specialising in high quality linen products, Haremlique certainly springs from modern İstanbul, the city where it’s based, but also draws inspiration from Ottoman elegance. Designs are a combination of timeless style and simple elegance, focusing on simplicity while emphasising the meticulous craftsmanship and quality of the fabrics. Haremlique’s collections include a range of bed linens made from 100% Egyptian cotton, and a complete set of bath linens ranging from towels to bathrobes to exquisite pestamals (traditional cloth worn for the Turkish bath). Look out also for its sleepwear line, scented candles, soaps and other accessories. The collection also provides a bespoke service offering the option of personalized and made-to-measure linens for private yachts and homes (p. 26). J U LY 2011 I W H E R E İ S TA N B U L 21 Shopping Coats and mantles dominate the product line with skirts, trousers, jackets, tops and accessories also available. Particularly for outerwear, the store offers many chic alternatives. Mon-Sat 10am-7:30pm. www.mapagiyim.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 22/1, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 230 8090. A6. MAX&CO. Collection representing a modern, feminine, seductive and distinctive style. Daily 10am-10pm. www.maxandco.com. İstinye Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre 492, İstinye. T: 0212 345 5731. K: 1, Etiler. T: 0212 282 2303. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). V2K DESIGNERS Prestigious Turkish couture offering elegance and a modern style. Carries many famous hip brands under its collection. Mon-Sat 10:30am-7:30pm. www.v2kdesigners.com.tr. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 29, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 219 9498. A6. VALENTINO One of the best known fashion brands in the world, Valentino offers a wide SPOTLIGHT MAPAStylish boutique on Abdi İpekçi Street. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). MAX MARA Max Mara covers all the bases for lovers of classic styles, providing a casual look for women of all ages. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.maxmara.com. Teşvikiye Cad. 7, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 259 6550. A6. MIDNIGHT EXPRESS Clothing by designers inspired by İstanbul, including Bora Aksu, Ümit Ünal and Hakan Yıldırım; as well as leather handbags and accessories by Johnny Farah. Also jewellery by Apriati, each piece of which is an artwork with its novel, flowing forms. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.midnightexpress.com.tr. Küçük Bebek Cad. 7/A, Bebek. T: 0212 265 4547. Off map. MIU MIU Designed as an independent brand by Prada, Miu Miu’s trendy footwear and dresses appeal to the child in you. Daily 10am-10pm. ww.miumiu.com. İstinye Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre 58, İstinye. T: 0212 329 8158. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). PRADA Considering fashion, luxury and style a project that goes beyond the mere production of clothes, bags, and shoes, this famous Italian brand leads the world in fashion and style. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.prada.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 34, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 368 8450. A6. ROBERTO CAVALLITop quality Italian clothes for men and women that are comfortable as well as stylish. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.robertocavalli.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 13/A, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 291 0754. A6. SALVATORE FERRAGAMO Creativity and passion have been passed down through generations in the Ferragamo family, and with close attention to quality and detail, Salvatore Ferragamo has become known as the shoemaker for the stars. In addition to purses and shoes, the brand’s other lines of clothing have also had great success. Daily 10am-8pm. Abdi İpekçi Cad. Polat Palas, 63, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 241 6049. A6. SILK & CASHMEREA distinguished and specialized world brand from Turkey, Silk & Cashmere offers a collection made of high quality 100% Pure Cashmere, 100% pure silk, or Kaşipek, a blend of both fibres. Daily 10am-10pm. www.silkcashmere.com. Teşvikiye Cad. 162, City’s Shopping Centre K:S1, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 360 0990. A6. UTERQÜESpanish brand using bold lines, fine details and quality materials to produce its collections, which include shoes, handbags, jewellery, leather and many accessories. Daily 10am-10pm. www.uterque.com. Nispetiye Cad. Akmerkez Shopping Centre, 22 W H E R E İ S TA N B U L I J U LY 2011 range of luxury products, from haute couture and pret-à-porter to an extensive collection of accessories that includes bags, shoes, small leather goods, belts, eyewear, watches and perfumes. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.valentino.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 12/A, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 219 6629. A6. YARGICITurkish clothing brand for modern, cosmopolitan and independent women. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm, Sun 1pm-6pm. www.yargici.com.tr. Valikonağı Cad. 34/B, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 225 2952. A6. Coiffeurs ERDEM KIRAMERAn established brand in Turkey, Erdem Kıramer works with Paris-based Dessange Paris, bringing the world’s innovations to Turkey. Its hair designs successfully reflect the latest in hair fashion in newspaper, magazine and TV shootings, fashion shows and similar events. Daily 9am-7pm. www.erdemkiramer.com.tr. Maya Residence, Bebek Mah. Otlukbeli Cad. Yol Sok. 16, C Blok, Etiler. T: 0212 352 1195. Off map. A Journey Through Time Khaftan Art and Antique in Sultanahmet is the ideal place to find valuable antiques as well as works by contemporary Turkish artists. Named for the robes worn by sultans, Khaftan offers modern interpretations of pieces you would see in a palace. Boasting a vast collection of ceramics, Ottoman textiles and books on İstanbul’s rich heritage, it also has a huge range of paintings. You’ll find portraits of sultans executed in oils by artist Yakub Cemin, still life, miniatures, paintings by modern Turkish painters like Ersan Ateşer, and beautiful ceramic pieces by Nuray Ada and Şeyda Aksu. Khaftan takes you on a journey back to the 17th century (p. 62). Concept Stores ARTİCHOKEA range of products by felt designer Öykü Thurstson. Made of high quality wool, these hand-made cardigans, jackets, bags and shawls will not overheat you, stiffen up or irritate your skin. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.art-i-choke.com. Faik Paşa Yokuşu 1, Çukurcuma. T: 0212 249 8992. C5. INUI Nişantaşı source for avant-garde designers including Hüseyin Çağlayan, Anne Valerie Hash and Noir. www.inuibutik.com. Maçka Cad. Maçka Palas Park Hyatt Hotel karşısı, Zekipaşa Apt. 12/A Teşvikiye. T: 0212 296 6010. A6. NR 39A highlight for anyone passionate about fine footwear. Each of İpek Yılmaz’s entirely handcrafted designs, made from real leather, is as simple as it is impressive. If desired, she can make custom versions of your favourite designs. Mon-Sat 8:30am-8:30pm. www.nr39.com. Süleyman Nazif Sok. 39, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 241 4059. A6. PORTO BELLOAn original and unique shop offering vintage dresses and wedding gowns, plus an endless array of masks, hats and gloves. You’re likely to find something to suit your tastes as well as broaden your sense of style. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Cihangir Cad. 31, Cihangir. T: 0212 292 7123. C6. Cosmetics CLINIQUE Prestigious pioneer in skin care, Clinique began producing products for all different skin types 43 years ago, and continues its mission today. Clinique’s personal approach and carefully formulated and tested products have made it one of the world’s most competent authorities on skin care. All of Clinique’s products have been allergy-tested and are 100% perfume-free. Their line includes products for men and women of all ages and skin colours. Mon-Sat 10am-10pm. Sun 12pm-10pm. İstiklal Cad. 47/A, Taksim. T: 0212 292 2332. C5. L’OCCITANE Creams, soaps, candles and natural skin care products. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Shopping www.loccitane.com.tr. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 43/B, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 231 2106. A6. M.A.C.Wide variety of makeup products and cosmetics with assistance from experts. Skin and nail protection products also available. Daily 10am-10pm. Nispetiye Cad. Akmerkez Shopping Centre 121, Etiler. T: 0212 282 2615. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). THE BODY SHOP Boasting more than 2,000 shops in 54 countries, this chain shares the latest innovations in the world of beauty with products extending from skin and body care to hair care, makeup products and perfumes. Daily 10am-9pm. www.bodyshop.com.tr. Bağdat Cad. Yenel Apt. 1, Kadıköy. T: 0216 360 1332. Off map. Department Stores BEYMEN Beymen Men is renowned for its eye for fine detail, special fabrics and quality. Beymen Women offers timeless garments with romantic, nostalgic and feminine details that will never go out of fashion. Leading international brands also available. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. www.beymen.com.tr. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 23/1, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 373 4800. A6. BOYNERAs the brand that introduced the department store concept to Turkey, Boyner remains the country’s leading chain. Its men’s, women’s, children’s wear, active sportswear, footwear & accessories, cosmetics and housewares departments offer a vast selection of local and international brands. Daily 10am-10pm. İstinyePark Shopping Centre, İstinye Bayırı Cad. İstinye. T: 0212 345 5070. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). Bağdat Cad. 360, Suadiye. T: 0216 385 1409. Off map. HARVEY NICHOLS Kanyon Shopping Centre is the home of this ultimate luxury designer destination. Spread over 3 floors, it offers over 300 of world’s top designer labels in ladies’, men’s and children’s wear, cosmetics, fashion, and home accessories, also including premium brands Emilio Pucci, Balmain, Helmut Lang, Elie Tahari, Oscar De la Renta, and Salvatore Ferragamo. Hand-dipped chocolates at the café, Butterfly, and exquisite dining at the Italian restaurant Gina offer a wonderful respite in an exquisite shopping venue. Daily 10am-10pm. www.harveynichols.com. Büyükdere Cad. 185, Kanyon Shopping Centre, Levent. T: 0212 319 1155. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). MARKS & SPENCER Major British retailer with over 885 stores in more than 40 territories around the world. Mon-Sat 10am-6pm, Sun 12pm-8pm. www.marksandspencer.com.tr. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 2, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 219 6657-58. A6. VAKKOThis leading Turkish brand presents its own interpretation of today’s fashions in men’s and women’s wear while remaining true to its superior fabric and manifacturing quality. Daily 10am-10pm. www.vakko.com.tr. Büyükdere Cad. 185, Kanyon Shopping Centre 138/139/140, Levent. T: 0212 353 1080. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). Gift & Collectables ASSOULINE With branches in Paris, New York, Las Vegas and Los Angeles and now in Istanbul, Assouline Publishing takes subjects such as J U LY 2011 I W H E R E İ S TA N B U L 23 Shopping fashion, architecture, art, travel, hobby and food and with their original graphic concept, turns them into works of art. In addition to books, Assouline stores offer a selection of limited-edition book bags, book stands, stationery, bookends and fine antiques. Cevdet Paşa Cad. 25A, Bebek. T: 0212 287 5534. Off map. collections such as Ottoman, Enamel Glass, Calligraphy on Glass, Mosaic, Ashura, Boutique Glass and others, as well as crystal, porcelain/ceramics, and accessories. Daily 10am-10pm. www.pasabahcemagazalari.com. Büyükdere Cad. 185, Kanyon Shopping Centre G 141, Levent. T: 0212 353 0730. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). CASHMERE HOUSE Cashmere House is the place to look for exquisite latest styles of cashmere shawls from Nepal and Kashmir, as well as real silk shawls produced in the Turkish cities of Bursa and Denizli in a wide variety of colours and styles. Mon-Sat 9am-6pm. www.cashmerehouse.com.tr. Keseciler Cad. 49-51, Kapalıçarşı, Fatih. T: 0212 5276990. E4. Hammam AYASOFYA HÜRREM SULTAN HAMAMI BATH OF ROXELANA Commissioned in 1556 to Mimar Sinan by Sultan Suleyman I, this hamam was named after his wife Hürrem Sultan, popularly known as Roxelana. The Haseki Hürrem Sultan Hamam has recently been restored and reopened as one of the most important treasures in the Ottoman-Turkish bath tradition. Located between Hagia Sophia and Sultanahmet Mosque, and unaltered from its original layout over the past 450 years, it was the first bath in which the men’s and women’s sections were built on the same axis. Daily 7am12am. Cankurtaran Mah. Bab-ı Hümayun Cad. 1, Sultanahmet. T: 0212 517 3535. F4. DECOLIBRA This store has its exclusive designs manufactured in the Far East and Europe, demonstrating a synthesis of the East and the West. A vast collection of wooden furniture, accessories and illumination elements as well as home textiles. Mon-Sat 9:30am-7pm. www.decolibra.com. Ahmet Fetgari Sok. 158/2, Teşvikiye. T: 0212 296 0570. A6. GALI COLLECTIONThis home and marine collection features nature - inspired forms alongside contemporary hand-crafted silver jewellery. Custom design are available to meet personnel/corporate demands. View the fine silver collection, and Gali-designed slippers that ward off the evil eye. Mon-Fri 10am-6:30pm. www.thegalicollection.com. Kültür Mah. Küçük Çamlık Sitesi, Esra Sok. E Blok 2H D2, Etiler. T: 0212 234 0138. A6. Homewares ABDULLA Comprised of two stores offering natural products in the Grand Bazaar. Boasting mystical interiors influenced by the overall atmosphere of the Bazaar, the stores offer a vast range of authentic products from fabrics to oil soaps, leather work to bedding. Mon-Sat 9:30pm-7pm. Alibaba Türbe Sok. 25, Nuruosmaniye. T: 0212 526 3070. F4. GAIA & GINO Based in İstanbul, this brand creates contemporary design products by famous designers including Karim Rashid, Arik Levy, Andree Putman, Jaime Hayon, Harry Allen, Christian Ghion, Constantin Boym, Yves Behar and Defne Koz, who bring creative interpretations to traditional forms and patterns. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Bronz Sok. 5, D:2, Maçka. T: 0212 234 4472. A6. HİREF Reflecting Anatolian art and culture in the world of contemporary Turkish design, Hiref has now added its new Bakır, Beykoz and Abdan collections to its offerings. Daily 10am-10pm. www.hiref.com.tr.Büyükdere Cad. 185, Kanyon Shopping Centre B2, Levent. T: 0212 353 5450. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). LOKUM İSTANBUL Creating unique and original designs on İstanbul’s European side since 2005, Lokum İstanbul features Turkish delight, cologne, candles, confections, cards and very special fabrics. www.lokumistanbul.com. Kuruçeşme Cad. 19, Kuruçeşme, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 287 1528. Off map. LOTUS İZNİK CERAMICS Lotus Iznik Ceramics offers the best quality, handmade and handpainted, world famous Turkish Ceramics and Tiles. They carefully select the finest examples of traditional and modern İznik and Kütahya ceramic designs. Each art piece is custom ordered to local world - famous artists, who sign every one of their achievements. Mon-Sat 9am-6pm. Nakilbent Sok.13, Sultanahmet. T: 0212 516 5222. F4. LUXURIA Porcelain, silverware, crystal and other products from major brands inc Oscar de la 24 W H E R E İ S TA N B U L I J U LY 2011 ALHAMMAM Modern products of historical Renta, Alberto Pinto, Cacharel Home, Valentino, Daum, and Davidoff make Luxuria a regular destination for people of refined taste in table and home furnishings. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.luxuria.com.tr. Abdi İpekçi Cad. Arman Palas 7, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 296 6600. A6. MELDA SILVER Family-owned silver company established in 1842. For seven generations, Melda has combined classic Turkish handicrafts and designs with European styles, earning recognition in the international market as a leader in quality and design. Melda continues to expand its product range to provide the finest in quality, service, and design. Mon-Sat 10am-6pm. www.meldasilver.com. Kapalıçarşı, Arabacıoğlu Sok. 7/9/11, Eminönü. T: 0212 522 2573. E4. MI TIENDA Nergiz Surucu has been dealing in antiques and jewellery since 1991, and her years of experience are clearly reflected in her specially designed handmade jewellery collection. She also creates modern textile designs employing Ottoman techniques and natural materials. As if this were not enough, you will also find an exclusive collection of İznik tiles at Mi Tienda. www.mitienda.com.tr. Boutique floor of Ritz-Carlton. Gümüşsuyu Asker Ocağı Cad., Elmadağ, Taksim. T: 0212 293 8262. A6. PAŞABAHÇE BOUTIQUEThe right address for delightful premium glassware, with special and modern hammam culture including soaps, copper products, scrubs and luffas, peshtemals, towels and hammam bowls. An excellent place to find the perfect gift or to treat yourself. Mon-Sat 8am-7:30pm. www.alhammam.com.cn. Çarşıkapı, Nuruosmaniye Cad. 10, Sofçuhan Girişi, Nuruosmaniye. T: 0212 512 2002. E4. ARMAGGAN Venue offering its exclusive products that reinterpret the inspiration of Anatolia through modern designs created in its own workshops. The limited editions include jewellery and home textiles collections as well as custom clothing produced using natural dyes—all exhibited in its seven-storey building. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. www.armaggan.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. Bostan Sok. 8, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 291 6292. A6. wwwThe new Nuruosmaniye outlet from this fine store presents a wide variety of specially designed objects, such as jewellery, naturallydyed textiles, carpets, leather goods, textiles and fine dining, all under one roof. Not only that, but it is also home to Nar Gourmet, Nar Restaurant, Nar Café, the Culinary Arts Center (YESAM), the Armaggan Art Gallery and Bora Travel. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. www.armaggan.com. Nuruosmaniye Cad. 65, Beyazıt. T: 0212 522 4433. E4. AUTOBAN Created in 2003 by Seyhan Özdemir and Sefer Çağlar, and taking its name from İstanbul's diversity, contrasts and chaos, Autoban brings together a variety of disciplines in one place. This very special gallery in the Shopping Jewellery SPOTLIGHT ALEF Alef adheres to the principles of flawless Modern Lines, Elegant Design The Gali Collection in Nişantaşı turns silver into art. Started by designer Gülnur Ayaz, this creative workshop is known for its designer jewellery, home accessories and personalized designs. With her blend of Ottoman motifs and modern lines, Ayaz creates elegant jewellery and special dining sets that bring an artistic approach to everyday life (p. 24). Akaretler Rowhouses displays their latest creations that are becoming an indispensable part of everyday life. . Sinanpaşa Mah. Süleyman Seba Cad. 16-20, Akaretler, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 369 2463. A7. BEYMEN HOME Leading world brands in everything from decoration to home textiles, lighting to table design as well as one-of-a-kind products by world-renowned designers. Objects created of fine materials such as crystal, brass and bronze. Daily 10am-10pm. www.beymen.com.tr. Nispetiye Cad. Akmerkez Shopping Centre, Etiler. T: 0212 316 6900. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). CHAKRA Towels and bathrobes from bamboo fibre that softens when washed, in a variety of colours and patterns. Cosmetics specially produced for Chakra in Paris under the brand Chakra SPA Collection also available. Drop by for an alternative look at houseware. Daily 10am-10pm. www.chakra.com.tr. Büyükdere Cad. 185, Kanyon Shopping Centre B2, Levent. T: 0212 353 0757. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). DERVİŞ Natural and authentic products including silk, angora wool, wool, regional cotton fabrics, felts, vintage, caftans, special clothes, shawls, bathroom accessories, towels, and bathrobes. www.dervis.com. Kapalıçarşı, Keseciler Cad. 33-35. T: 0212 514 4525. Kapalıçarşı, Halıcılar Cad. 51, T: 0212 528 7883. Mon-Sat 10am-6pm. E4. HABİTAT Leading brand in modern home furniture and accessories. Habitat products are available at its store in Adressistanbul Home 26 W H E R E İ S TA N B U L I J U LY 2011 Decoration Center. Daily 10am-7pm. www.adressistanbul.com. Halide Edip Adıvar Bulvarı, Çiftecevizler Deresi Sok. 4, Şişli. T: 0212 320 8282. Off map. HAREMLIQUE Company offering own production of luxury linens and towels as well as fine silks, cashmeres, upholstery and home accessories for the finest homes, yachts and boutique hotels. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.haremlique.com. Şair Nedim Cad. 11, Akaretler, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 236 3843. B7. İZNİK WORKSA homely store in the heart of the Grand Bazaar, İznik Works offers the centuriesold glory of Turkish tile and pottery making. The finest examples of İznik tiles in blue, green and white embellish the store. Mon-Sat 9am-7pm. www.iznikworks.com. Kapalıçarşı, Takkeciler Sok 82-84, Eminönü. T: 0212 522 4242. F5. MUDO CONCEPT Offers a broad product range in decoration, furniture, personal accessories, home textiles and lighting for living spaces, kitchens and bathrooms. Daily 10am-10pm. www.mudoconcept.com.tr. İstiklal Cad. 201, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 251 8682. C5. NUXX Nuxx presents a variety of products to personalize living spaces, including personal accessories, decorative objects, furniture, lighting and stationery, as well as wine, hobby and office products. Daily 10am-10pm. www.nuxx.com.tr. İstinye Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre 312, İstinye. T: 0212 345 5690. wwShopping Centre Map (p.16). technique, fine aesthetics and authenticity as the basis of the art of jewellery design. Well known for its urban, sophisticated, energetic, and minimalist models. Mon-Sat 9:307pm. www.alefgaleri.com. Hacı Emin Efendi Sok. 4/A, Teşvikiye. T: 0212 241 3558. A7. ALTINBAŞ Jewellery leader offering unique designs and premium quality. Elegant creations in step with changing fashion trends and tastes complement women’s style. Daily 10am-10pm. www.altinbas.com. Büyükdere Cad. 22, Cevahir Shopping Centre 224/A, Şişli. T: 0212 380 0620. Off map. BOYBEYİ Founded in 1881, Boybeyi Jewellery has five shops in the Grand Bazaar. One of these, Chukur, is a historical landmark. Boybeyi carries a wonderful collection of quality, high-end jewellery. Their collections include earrings, bracelets, brooches, necklaces and rings, designed with diamonds, precious gemstones, platinum and gold. Mon-Sat 9am-7pm. www.boybeyi.com. Grand Bazaar, Kalpakçılar Cad. 151/163, Aynacılar Sok. 33/35, Acıçeşme Sok. 22, Beyazıt. T: 0212 522 4446. E4. BVLGARI Leading name in Italian-style jewellery and precious fashion pieces since 1884. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Bayıldım Cad. 2, Swissôtel the Bosphorus, Maçka. T: 0212 259 0227. B7. CARTIER BOUTIQUE Watches, wedding and engagement rings, diamond jewellery and other luxury items are available from this leading French brand. Mon-Sat 10:30am-7pm. www.cartierboutique.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 20, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 296 1317. A6. CHOPARD World-renowned brand in jewellery and watches, Chopard has established itself as a landmark with its custom design products. Mon-Fri 9am-6pm, Sat 10am-4pm. Mim Kemal Öke Cad. 13/A, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 225 1775. A6. DAMAS Since its founding, this brand has followed the trends and innovations in the world of jewellery and timepieces, and successfully represented world-renowned brands. Its wide range includes Tiffany&Co, Stefan Hafner, Roberto Coin, Pasquale Bruni, Mangiarotti, Scavia, Baraka, Escada, Gucci, Furrer-Jacot, Leo Pizzo, Maria Gaspari, Blancpain, Bovet, Chaumet, David Morris, Frank Muller, Graham, Glashütte, Corum, IWC, Jaeger Le Coultre, Philip Stein, TAG Heuer, Ulysse Nardin, Utopia, Van Der Bauwade and Zenith. Mon-Sat 10am-6:30pm. www.damasjewellery.com.tr. Atiye Sok. 9/B, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 219 8346-49. A6. DE BEERS Bask in the the glow of De Beers’ superb diamond jewellery designs, crafted for beauty and elegance. Daily 10am-10pm. www.debeers.com. İstinye Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre 471, İstinye. T: 0212 345 6688. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). DIAMOND NACİ ŞENOCAKLIServing its customers for 35 years, this store offers jewellery, men’s and women’s watches and special collections made with precious and semi-precious stones. MonSat 9:30am-7pm. Shopping www.diamond.com.tr. Valikonağı Cad. Demirhan 30/B, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 246 4300. A6. FANCY MÜCEVHERATJeweller offering a vast range of products inc sporty/stylish sapphire, diamond, emerald and pearl jewellery for day or night. Grand Bazaar, Kalpakçılar Cad. 62, Beyazıt. T: 0212 513 5307. E4. FREY WILLE Designed to reflect an rich imagination and emotional intensity, handmade Frey Wille collections incude unique artistic champlevé products by prominent Viennese designers. mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.frey-wille.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 51/C, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 240 5420. A6. MATIS JEWELLERY & CARPETVast selection of jewellery and carpets, providing the finest handmade Turkish art in this oldest part of the city. Matis stores offer a new and original retail approach where tales, legends and history blend to showcase enchanting collections. Mon-Sat 8:30pm-7:30pm. Sun 8:30pm-6pm. www.matis.com.tr. Babıali Cad. 19, Cağaloğlu. T: 0212 514 1112. F4. MAXIMILIAN Gürhan, Baraka, Selene Giolli, Giovanni Ferraris, Copra and Hashani brand jewellery, precious stones and custom designs as well as its own Trend Line collection for young people. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 10/2, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 232 6662. A6. MOLU In addition to conventional jewellery, this shop also takes special orders for penholders, coffee cup holders, table clocks and jewellery boxes made of gold and gemstones. Caters to a broad age range with its sporty and specially designed ornaments for the younger set. Daily 10am-10pm. www.molu.com.tr. İstinye Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre 511, İstinye. T: 0212 345 5656-57. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). SAİT KOÇShops in the Grand Bazaar and Nişantaşı offer exclusive products forged of 18-carat gold as well as diamond sets. Daily 10am-10pm. www.saitkocjewellery.com. Nispetiye Cad. Akmerkez Shopping Centre 267, GEM PALACEA favourite destination for jewellery enthusiasts from all around the world, this shop offers pieces designed with rare gems from Jaipur, India. Mon-Sat 9:30-7pm. Abdi İpekçi Cad. Hıraman Palas 5/2, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 240 6310. A6. GASIA Gasia is a manufacturer and wholesaler of design jewelry. They specialize in 24 karat hand hammered products.Mon-Sat 9am-7pm. www.gasiajewelry.com. Gazi Sinan Paşa Sok. Has İş hanı, Nuruosmaniye. T: 0212 528 3135. F5. GİLAN Flashy designs based on a profound cultural heritage and seamless handiwork that ensures superior quality. Daily 10am-10pm. www.gilan.com.tr. Nispetiye Cad. Akmerkez Shopping Centre 123, Etiler. T: 0212 282 0576. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). GOLDAŞ Multi-award winning company for its designs. Utilizing cutting edge technology, Goldaş is a trendsetter in its field with its quality and innovations. Daily 10am-10pm. www.goldas.com. Büyükdere Cad. 127, Astoria Shopping Centre Z1-06, Esentepe. T: 0212 215 2141. Off map. GÜRE JEWELLERY Diamond pieces, emerald, ruby and sapphire collections as well as custom designs. The store features a variety of concepts in addition to handmade 14-18 carat Italian, 22 carat Indian, and 24-carat Bahraini pieces. Mon-Sat 10:30am-7pm. www.guremucevher.com. Rumeli Cad. 1/2, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 233 0233. A6. KAFKAS FUAT KIRGIZ One of Turkey’s leading jewellery firms for 4 generations, offering customised platinum and art deco designs. Many awards inc the De Beers Design Award. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.kafkasjewellery.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. Isparta Palas 19, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 296 9228. A6. KAMER KIRAÇA jewellery boutique featuring an impressive collection in a distinctive interior. A designer for many world stars, Kamer Kıraç’s collection is also available in London, Downtown Los Angeles and Beverly Drive. MonSat 10am-7pm. www.kamerkıraç.com. Firuzağa Mah. Çukurcuma Cad. Ağa Külhani Sok. 14-A, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 252 5413. C5. KARUN JEWELLERY Unique, expertly-crafted custom designs with origins in the Grand Bazaar and extending to the United States. The store offers jewellery produced in its own workshop. Mon-Sat 9:30-10pm. www.karunjewellery.com. Teşvikiye Cad. 109/B, Teşvikiye. T: 0212 227 9535. A6. J U LY 2011 I W H E R E İ S TA N B U L 27 Shopping Etiler. T: 0212 282 2547. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). SEVAN BIÇAKÇIAward-winning designer offering much sought-after pieces, particularly the unique and highly valuable ring designs. Flawless handmade diamond jewellery and special collections echoing Turkish handiwork have drawn the attention of collectors worldwide. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.sevanbicakci.com. Vişnezade Mah. Şair Nedim Cad. 3, Akaretler, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 236 9199. B7. TIARATiara Jewellery offers a splendid collection magnificent diamonds, Tiffany & Co has for decades been the world’s premier jeweller and America’s finest house of design. Tiffany style is defined by groundbreaking designers and glamorous collections. A magnificent, classic Tiffany bracelet never fails to please. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.tiffany.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 65, Maçka. T: 0212 232 0742. A6. TOPALL With a history of 50 years, this brand caters to jewellery enthusiasts from around the world, notably including members of many royal families. Daily 10am-10pm. www.topall.com.tr. İstinye Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre R331, İstinye. T: 0212 345 5880. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). URART This jeweller in bustling Nişantaşı stands out with its unique, modern designs that draw upon and interpret the very special works of Anatolian civilisations and cultures. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.urart.com.tr. SPOTLIGHT of jewellery inspired by the artistic history of Anatolian civilizations and the creativity of contemporary artists. Made of the highest quality gold, platinum and semi-precious stores, the jewellery collection features the utmost in craftsmanship and quailty. Daily 9am-6pm. www.tiarajewellery.com. Nakilbent Sok.33, Sultanahmet. T: 0212 516 5222. F5. TIFFANY& CO. Renowned for its rare and Abdi İpekçi Cad. 18/1, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 246 7194. A6. ÜLSEVEN Ülseven Fine Jewellery has been creating unique masterpieces and exclusive jewellery collections for over 60 years. A well-known company in the Grand Bazaar, Ülseven serves its upscale clients in its Nişantaşı, and Bakırköy stores. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.ulseven.com.tr. Teşvikiye Cad. 22/A, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 291 0656. A6. ZEKİ ATA A classic brand with its collection including eardrops, long necklaces, solitaires in all cuts, fancy diamond water bracelets, diamond eternity rings, precious stones and pearls, all hand made in its own manufacturing center. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.zekiata.com.tr. Bağdat Cad. Tan Sok. 462, Çatalçeşme, Suadiye. T: 0216 410 0044-55. Off map. ZEN DIAMOND Modern designs including diamond jewellery and special collections by this brand based on a family tradition dating back to the 1890s that still continues today. Mon-Fri 9am-6pm, Sat 9am-4pm. www.zendiamond.com. Şeref Efendi Sok. 35, Cağaloğlu. T: 0212 520 0041. E4. Leather & Fur DESA Established in 1972, this brand now operates with 66 stores in Turkey and 2 abroad. In addition to leather products, it also produces silk, chiffon, cashmere and knitwear skirts, jackets, trousers, coats and accessories. Daily 10am-10pm. www.desa.com.tr. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 5, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 232 1290. A6. İstinyePark Shopping Centre 398, İstinye. T: 0212 245 6739. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). DERİMODWith 31 years in the business, this leading leather products brand has several branches abroad in addition to its 48 branches in Turkey, striving to create fashion and make leather a part of fashion. Daily 10am-10pm. www.derimod.com.tr. İstinye Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre R317, İstinye. T: 0212 345 5753. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). DERİSHOW Establishment providing fine leather products and different designs for its customers since 1987. Daily 10am-10pm. www.derishow.com.tr. İstinye Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre 507, İstinye. T: 0212 345 5908. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). KOÇ DERİ Established in 1968, Koç Deri New Bathing Suits For A Hot Summer! Gathering top-brand lingerie, bathing suits and beachwear under one roof, Mendo’s is setting the style for 2011. Young women who see Emporio Armani’s 2011 summer bathing suit collection need look no further; with stripes and geometric designs as well as brilliant single colours and bold cuts, Emporio Armani bathing suits are sure to be your favourites this summer, both for comfort and style (p. 32). 28 W H E R E İ S TA N B U L I J U LY 2011 manufactures for global brands including Armani and Dolce & Gabbana. One of the most widely known stores in Grand Bazaar, it is also a favourite of many celebrities. www.kocderi.com. Grand Bazaar, Kürkçüler Çarşısı 22/46, Eminönü. T: 0212 527 5553. E4. MATRAŞ Classic and modern leather products including coats, jackets, skirts, trousers, footwear and bags as well as arty designs. Daily 10am-10pm. www.matras.com. Nispetiye Cad. Akmerkez Shopping Centre 252, Etiler. T: 0212 282 0215. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). PUNTO DERİWith its four firms under a single roof, Punto Deri designs for leading global brands, providing its customers with a wide selection of leather and fur items. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. www.puntogroup.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 45/2, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 219 8149. A6. Shopping SPOTLIGHT Outlet 212 İSTANBUL POWER OUTLET Only 5 minutes from İstanbul Atatürk International Airport, 212 İstanbul boasts 170 shops, 9 movie theatres, 3,000 square meters of recreation area and a 3,500-car free parking lot. An amazing structure, great choices, easy access and discount prices. 212 İstanbul offers unique outlet brands like Polo Garage, Stefanel, Tommy Hilfiger, Deichmann, Mudo, Derimod, G-Lingerie, Herry, Danielle Lopez, Avva, Kappa/Superga, LC Waikiki, Outset (Diesel), Park Bravo, Nine West, La Senza, Cacharel, Pierre Carden, U.S. Polo and more. www.212istanbul.com. Mahmutbey Merkez Mah. Taşocağı Cad. 5, Bağcılar. T: 0212 444 4212. Off map. BEYMEN CLEARENCE SALE SHOP Beymen Clearance Sale Shop carries Beymen, Beymen Home and Club Beymen collections as well as the imported items offered at Beymen stores. It also includes a separate stand for Benetton clearance sale items. Be sure to check it frequently to find that perfect bargain! Daily 10am-6pm. Büyükdere Cad. Noramin İş Merkezi B/5, Maslak. T: 0212 286 6363. Off map. İSTANBUL OPTIMUM İstanbul Optimum Outlet and Entertainment Centre in Ataşehir features new season and outlet products by top Turkish and world brands including Media Markt, Fracasetti, Vakko, Park Bravo, LCW, YKM, Mudo, Beymen Clearance Sale Shop, and Alexi Androtti. It has become an important centre not only for shopping but for recreation as well, with an ice rink, entertainment centre and food court. Daily 10am-10pm. www.optimumoutlet.com. İstiklal Sok. 14, Yenisahra, Kadıköy. T: 0216 664 1414. Off map. Perfumery JO MALONE Try and choose the best perfumes from a broad range of products from Jo Malone, which adheres to the philosophy that perfume should match the person’s skin and character. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. www.jomalone.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 37/1, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 231 4416. A6. SEPHORA More than 10,000 brand-name products in a variety of categories from makeup to skin-care plus exclusive secret formula products unique to Sephora. Daily 10am-10pm. www.sephora.com. İstinye Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre, İstinye. T: 0212 345 6035. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). SEVİL PARFÜMERİ This long-established cosmetics chain offers a broad range of world-class makeup, skin-care products and fragrances in addition to its own exclusive brands. Daily 10am-10pm. www.sevil.com.tr. Nispetiye Cad. Akmerkez Shopping Centre 221/222, Etiler. T: 0212 282 0268. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). TEKİN ACAR Purchase the world’s leading cosmetics and perfume brands with assistance from competent sales representatives. Daily 10am-10pm. www.tekinacar.com.tr. İstiklal Cad. Güney Palas Apt. 153, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 249 6910. C5. Renew Your Home Chakra’s home accessory collection was designed to let you renew your living spaces with small details, add class and a little excitement to your life. The Chakra accessory collection includes bath sets, photo albums, wall decorations, pillows and much more. Fly off to Provence with its white glossy picture frames and lamps; relive the summer holidays of your childhood with their hand-embroidered throws with seashells, or immerse yourself in simple luxury with their silver-and-glass bath sets (p. 26). Porcelain GÜRAL PORCELAIN Retail stores of this leading porcelain manufacturer and exporter renowned for its quality products, sales and after-sales services in Turkey and around the world. Daily 10am-10pm. www.guralporselen.com.tr. Fatih Cad. 1, Tepe Nautilus Shopping Centre 18, Acıbadem, Kadıköy. T: 0216 339 8757. Off map. MONEV PORCELAIN Chain offering several exclusive brands inc Rosenthal, Wedgewood, Villeroy & Boch, Lenox, Haviland, Robbe Berking, WMF, Kahla and JG Durand. Broad range includes decorative objects, stylish porcelain, crystal and silver sets, kitchen utensils, vases and chandeliers. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. www.monev.com.tr. Teşvikiye Cad. 26/A, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 296 0453. A6. PORLAND PORCELAIN Established in 1992, this brand produces excellent, unique designs that combine style, aesthetics and quality. Also serving luxurious hotels and restaurants, Porland Porcelain is a 'green' company that adheres strictly to environmental regulations in its production. Daily 10am-10pm. www.porland.com.tr. Büyükdere Cad. 22, Cevahir Shopping Centre 39, Şişli. T: 0212 380 0946. B6. Shoes & Bags BALLY Swiss fashion brand offering leather and fabric goods since 1847 to those who value their foot health. Daily 10am-10pm. www.bally.com. Büyükdere Cad. 185, Kanyon Shopping Centre 130, Levent. T: 0212 353 0631. Off map. CAMPER Spanish brand that transforms walking into an art. Daily 10am-10pm. www.camper.com. İstinye Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre 352, İstinye. T: 0212 345 6026. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). CESARE PACIOTTI Striking models highlighting feminine instinct with frequent use of purple, black, red and gold. Daily 10am-10pm. www.cesare-paciotti.com. Büyükdere Cad. 185, Kanyon Shopping Centre 126/G, Levent. T: 0212 353 0868. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). DERİDEN Local distributor of world-famous brands inc DKNY, Timberland, Sebago, Kowalski, Calvin Klein, Bikkembergs, Boticelli, Lion, Palladium, Logan, and Buffalo. Daily 10am-10pm. www.deriden.com.tr. Çırağan Cad. Vapur İskelesi Sok. 1, Ortaköy. T: 0212 261 7666. A9. GIUSSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN Glamorous women’s footwear by this Italian designer is excellent for social functions with its dressy style that emphasizes femininity. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.giuseppe-zanotti-design.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 24/26, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 232 0745. A6. VETRINA Offers a wide variety of the best of Italian fashion brands’ latest creations, with high quality service and extensive product range. J U LY 2011 I W H E R E İ S TA N B U L 29 Daily 10am-7pm. Teşvikiye Cad. 3/A, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 259 1206. A6. Spas CAUDALIE VINOTHERAPIE SPA One of the most luxurious spas in town offering Caudalie signature treatments along with traditional hammam and Asian rituals. Here you luxuriate in the sea water pool and Jacuzzis, Dead Sea water floating pool, salt inhalation laconium, ice fountain, Kneipp basins, hammam and meditation room, and relax on heated ceramic benches under a sparkling dome. An exquisite treat. www.lesottomans.com. Hotel Les Ottomans Spa, Muallim Naci Cad. 68, Kuruçeşme. T: 0212 359 1533. Off map. ESPA SPAAn extraordinary oasis in a bustling city, this luxury spa offers guests at The Istanbul Edition hotel an unparalleled experience incorporating beauty, health and wellness in a setting of exquisite luxury. An atmosphere of opulence pervades, decorated in rich metallic woods and embossed bronze floors, softened by upholstered walls and comfortable seating. Daily 10am-10pm. www.editionhotels.com. Büyükdere Cad.136, Levent. T: 0212 317 7700. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). NUSPASpecial massages and therapies as well as surprise packages. Mon-Fri 9am-10pm, Sat-Sun 9am-9pm. www.nuspa.com.tr. Nuspa G-Mall, Harbiye Mah. Kadırgalar Cad. G-Mall Shopping Centre, Maçka. T: 0212 232 4440. B6. SPA & HAMMAM Four Seasons Hotel Bosphorus offers a stress-free, peaceful environment in the heart of the city at Spa & Hammam, combining Far Eastern philosophy with Western technology to serve in a modern-day tradition concept. www.fourseasons.com/bosphorus. Four Seasons Bosphorus, Çırağan Cad. 28, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 381 4160. B8. W DAY SPASituated in the heart of the city in the exciting and glamorous W İstanbul, W Day Spa allows guests to relax and rejuvenate their mind and spirit in a quiet and sophisticated environment. St. Barth products are used in the exquisite elixirs and spa treatments, creating a calming Caribbean experience. Süleyman Seba Cad. 22, W İstanbul, Akaretler, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 381 2121. B7. Sportswear INTERSPORT Intersport, the world’s largest retailer with 5,500 stores in 36 countries, has a wide selection ranging from snow sports, racket sports, football, basketball, swimming, fitness, running, to outdoor and cycling with products for beginners and professionals alike. Nike, Adidas, Puma, Converse, Asics, O’Neill, Arena, Speedo, Elan, Spyder, Salomon, Wilson, Head, Rollerblade, Columbia and McKinley are among the hundreds of brands on offer. www.intersport.com. Büyükdere Cad. 185, Kanyon Shopping Centre K1, Levent. T: 0212 353 0696. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). Toys & Games IMAGINARIUM Toy store chain based in Spain with shops in 27 countries. Product range for children from 0 to 9 years. Products as 30 W H E R E İ S TA N B U L I J U LY 2011 Shopping educational as they are entertaining. Daily 10am-10pm. www.imaginarium.com.tr. Büyükdere Cad. 185, Kanyon Shopping Centre B2/32, Levent. T: 0212 353 0553. the trouble, for the finest coffee experience. Daily 8am-7pm. www.mehmetefendi.com. Tahmis Sok. 66, Eminönü. T: 0212 511 4262-63. Eminönü. E4. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). TOYZZSHOP Offers an extensive collection of toys and models. Customers can also prepare gift lists. Daily 10am-10pm. www.toyzzshop.com.tr. Nispetiye Cad. Akmerkez Shopping Centre 249, Etiler. T: 0212 282 0496. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). Turkish Delicacies ALİ MUHİDDİN HACI BEKİRAn international brand with an extensive exports network spanning the world from Japan to New Zealand, the Middle East, Latvia, the United Kingdom and the United States, it offers Turkish delight, or lokum (a confection made from starch and refined sugar), hard candies, nut pastes, halvahs and dragees. İstiklal Cad. 83/A, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 244 2804. C5. BEBEK BADEM EZMESİSweet shop famous for its almond and pistachio pastes. Products are always fresh and made from top-quality ingredients. Daily 9:30am-8pm. Cevdetpaşa Cad. 53/C, Bebek. T: 0212 263 5984. Off map. BUTTERFLY CHOCOLATE Patisserie and chocolate house offering additive-free, all-natural products prepared from the freshest ingredients in accordance with the highest standards. Its cakes are produced from French-Belgian chocolates and organic fruits. Exclusive collections based on a different concept every new season. Daily 10am-10pm. www.butterfly.com.tr. İstinye Shopping Centre, İstinye Bayırı Cad. Lifestyle Park, İstinye. T: 0212 345 6200. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). CEMİLZADE 1883 Many traditional Turkish delight varieties as well as its exclusive fruit Turkish delights, hard candies and nut pastes, each as sweet as the next, but light as well. Mon-Sat 10am-8:30pm, Sun 11am-7pm. Nispetiye Cad. 104/B Etiler. T: 0212 257 2865. Off map. GÜLLÜOĞLU BAKLAVACISITraditional pastries by Turkey’s most famous baklava maker Güllüoğlu Faruk Güllü, highly popular both in Turkey and abroad, are the products of 134-year-old tradition. The company still strictly adheres to its long-established values in every stage of its production. Mon-Sat 7am-7pm. www.gulluoglu.com.tr. Gayrettepe Mah. Barbaros Bulvarı 125, Balmumcu, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 354 3685. A8. KOSKA HELVACISI Leading manufacturer and exporter of Turkish Halva, a tahini-based dessert popular over a vast region, as well as other traditional flavours inc preserves, sesame paste and molasses, Turkish delight and light products for diabetics. Available in all major food retailers. www.koska.com. KURUKAHVECİ MEHMET EFENDİThe origins of coffee culture throughout the world today can be traced back to Turkish Coffee. For centuries, coffee was originally purchased as green beans to be taken home, roasted in pans, then ground in hand cranked mills or mortar and pestles. This long, tedious and exhausting process had to be undertaken every time to savour a cup of coffee. This landmark establishment saves coffee lovers 32 W H E R E İ S TA N B U L I J U LY 2011 Underwear & Swimsuit AGENT PROVOCATEUR Elegant and irresistibly glamorous lingerie, nightwear, footwear, accessories, outerwear, candles and perfumes that radiate sensuality for all occasions. Daily 10am-10pm. www.agentprovocateur.com. Büyükdere Cad. 185, Kanyon Shopping Centre, Harvey Nichols, Levent. T: 0212 319 1115. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). INTIMISSIMI/CALZEDONIA Italian clothing label launched in 1996, specializing in bras, briefs, lingerie, vests, and pyjamas for women and men. Daily 10am-10pm. www.intimissimi.com. İstinye Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre 326, İstinye. T: 0212 345 5796. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). LA PERLA Leading creator of luxurious and fashionable lingerie, nightwear, swimwear, and loungewear for women and men since 1954. www.laperla.com. Bostan Sok. 11, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 259 4348. A6. LA SENZA Major intimate apparel store from Canada. Offers many high quality products from bras to underwear, nightgowns to pyjamas, evening dresses to body care products and accessories. Provides shopping pleasure to ladies in a friendly atmosphere. Daily 10am10pm. www.lasenza.com.tr. Büyükdere Cad. 171, Metro City Shopping Centre, 1. Levent. T: 0212 344 0218. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). MENDO'S Offering a line consisting mainly of swimwear and lingerie, Mendo’s stores carry Gottex, Calvin Klein, Gideon Oberson, Maryan Mehlhorn, Selmark, Triump, Maidenform, Miracle Suit, Susa, Linclalor, Donna Victoria, and Calze Levante brand products. www.mendos.com.tr. Teşvikiye Cad. 162, City’s Shopping Centre B211, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 373 2460. A6. ZEKİ TRİKOThe world-renowned swimwear brand Zeki Triko once again captures the attention with its unique and artsy models. The new collection of this global brand includes a vast array of lingerie, bikinis, swimsuits and beachwear. Daily 10am-10pm. www.zekitriko.com.tr. Nispetiye Cad. Akmerkez Shopping Centre 366, Etiler. T: 0212 282 0591-92. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). Watches ARTE GIOIA An must-stop for lovers of fine timepieces. Luxury watch brands inc Cartier, Franck Muller, Ulysse Nardin, Richard Mille, Bovet, Cvstos, Blancpain, Glashütte, Girard & Perregaux, Roger Dubuis, Romain Jerome, Erwin Sattler and Jacob & Co as well as Vertu phones, Milus cufflinks, Scatola del Tempo, and Buben & Zorweg watch boxes available at the shop. Also serves its exclusive clientele at their homes and offices. www.artegioia.com. İstinye Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre R410, İstinye. T: 0212 282 1901. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). CHOPARD World-renowned custom design jewellery and watchmaker. www.chopard.com. Galeri Tektaş, Büyükdere Cad. 185, Kanyon Shopping Centre 119, Levent. T: 0212 353 0555. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). CHRONOS İSTANBUL BOUTIQUE Chronos İstanbul is the representative for Jaeger-LeCoultre, Piaget and Gerald Genta watches. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.chronosistanbul.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. Altın Sok. 2/B, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 343 7187. A6. EQUINOX Offers Raymond Weil watches, a world-class brand established in 1976. Teşvikiye Cad. 162, City’s Shopping Centre K:1 B/106, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 373 1760. A6. HUBLOTSuccessful brand known for its innovative and well-designed Swiss watches, well known for its Big Bang collection. Mon-Sat 9:30am-6:30pm. www.hublot.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. Nil Apt. 21/1, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 231 9035. A6. PATEK PHILIPPE One of the most prominent watchmakers in the world, Patek Philippe is also famous as the maker of the Calibre 89, the “most complicated watch in the world.” www.patek.com. Mim Kemal Öke Cad. 11/2, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 224 7179. A6. RHODIUM Extensive selection of watches by foremost world brands inc Rolex, Chopard, Cartier. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.rhodium.com.tr. Abdi İpekçi Cad. Altın Sok. 2/C, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 291 8230. A6. SAAT & SAATThis store carries premium watches and ornaments from a host of brands inc Adidas, Balmain, Burberry, Chronotech, Citizen, Diesel, DKNY, Emporio Armani, Escape, Esprit, Fossil, GC, GF Ferre, Hamilton, Hugo Boss Guess, Just Cavalli, Michael Kors, Miss Sixty, Roberto Cavalli, Timberland, Tommy Hilfiger, Valentino, Welder and Zodiac. Daily 10am-10pm. www.saatvesaat.com. Büyükdere Cad. 22, Cevahir Shopping Centre 44/A, Şişli. T: 0212 380 0972. Off map. SWATCHA good alternative offering watches in the medium price range with collections inc Irony, Swatch Skin Chrono, Swatch Snowpass and many others. Outstanding technical capabilities and advances in the fields of science and technology were already proven by Swatch. Daily 10am-10pm. www.swatch.com. Teşvikiye Cad. 162, City’s Shopping Centre B1/105, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 373 1863. A6. Wedding Clothes PRONOVIAS Offering an extensive collection of wedding gowns, Pronovias treats every bride as unique and every wedding as a challenge. Pronovias shares your excitement from the moment you first walk in the door until your wedding day. Mon-Sat 10:30-7:30pm. www.pronovias.com. Teşvikiye Cad. İnayet Apt. 129/1, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 296 4304. A6. VAKKO WEDDINGVakko style meets designer wedding gowns by world-renowned fashion brands including Oscar De La Renta, Vera Wang, Emanuel Ungaro, Elie by Elia Saab, Marchesa, Zhuair Murad, Vera Wang, Jenny Packham, Monique Lhuillier, Reem Acra and Valentino, to create an epic atmosphere. Mon-Sat 10am7:30pm. www.vakko.com.tr. Süleyman Seba Cad. 27, Akaretler. T: 0212 258 6608. B7. Entertainment Musical Knight Is Here! Rated as one of the 50 greatestever musicians by Rolling Stone, Sir Elton John performs at Maçka Küçükçiftlik Park (5 July) as part of his 21-country, 47-city world tour. It promises to be a great evening in itself, and in addition the Club House section is offering a unique extra: The Dragon Restaurant will offer a pre-concert Chinese dinner with no-limit local and imported drinks (p. 35). Children Cinemas Please check venue for full programme, performance time and ticket prices. Cinemas in İstanbul regularly show foreign films in their original languages with Turkish subtitles. Films for children, however, are usually dubbed in Turkish only with few screenings in original language during the day. Please check programme in advance particularly for the latter. ATLANTIS Established in Cevahir Shopping Centre around an underwater city concept, this entertainment centre promises a great time for children of all ages with clowns, dance shows, a variety of rides and a bowling alley. Tue-Fri 12pm-9pm, Sat-Sun 11am-9pm. www.atlantisclub.com.tr. Büyükdere Cad. 22, Cevahir Shopping Centre, Şişli. T: 0212 380 1350. Off map. MOHINIAn indoor activity centre exclusively for families and children with entertainment and sports grounds, art workshops, cinemas and theatres, special activities for kids, a café, a restaurant and children’s shops. Daily 10am8:30pm. www.mohini.com.tr. Tanburi Ali Efendi Sok. 15, Etiler. T: 0212 352 3136. Off map. THE PLAY BARNA play/entertainment/daycare center open 24 hours a day. Parents can leave their kids at the centre, which offers a playground, baby room, party room, cinema and café. Wireless internet camera system available for parents to monitor their children. Kids can stay as long as the want, hourly fee. www.theplaybarn.com.tr. Çilekli Cad. 26, 4. Levent. T: 0212 325 9384. Off map. 34 W H E R E İ S TA N B U L I J U LY 2011 ALTUNİZADE CAPITOL SPECTRUM Highly comfortable cinema complex packing 14 movie theatres. Capitol Spectrum offers all latest foreign films. Mahir İz Cad. Capitol Shopping Centre, 3rd Floor, 131, Altunizade. T: 0216 554 7770. Off map. AFM Shows world-premiere films as soon as they are released. Please check the programme on their website. www.afm.com.tr. T: 0212 444 1236. Akmerkez, Nispetiye Cad. 416, Etiler. T: 0212 282 0505. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). Carousel, Halit Ziya Uşaklıgil Cad. 1, Bakırköy. T: 0212 466 2345. Off map. Carrefour Maltepe Park, Cevizli Mah. Tugay Yolu 73, Maltepe. T: 0216 515 1212. Off map. Carrefour, İnkılap Mah. Cezaevi Yolu Küçüksu 68, Ümraniye. T: 0216 525 1444. Off map. Fitaş Beyoğlu, Beyoğlu, İstiklal Cad. 24, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 251 2020. C5. İstinyePark, İstinye Bayırı Cad. İstinye. T: 0212 342 6245. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). ATAKÖY GALLERIA PRESTIGE Nestled on the second floor of the Ataköy Galleria complex, the cinema shows latest films at its 15 theatres. Sahil Yolu, Galleria Shopping Centre, Bakırköy. T: 0212 560 7266. Off map. BEYOĞLU ATLASSituated in the Atlas Arcade on İstiklal Street, this is one of the most nostalgic cinemas in İstanbul. The historic venue has three screens. İstiklal Cad. 209, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 252 8576. C5. CINEBONUSWatch the latest films in comfortable surroundings; please check programme on their web site. www.cinebonus.com.tr. Astoria, Büyükdere Cad. 117, Esentepe. T: 0212 215 2727. Off map. Capacity, Fişekhane Cad. Bakırköy. T: 0212 559 4949. Off map. Florya, Harman Sok. 48, Florya. T: 0212 662 9840. G-Mall, Kadırgalar Cad. 3, Maçka. T: 0212 232 4440. A6. Kanyon, Büyükdere Cad. 185, Levent. T: 0212 353 0853. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). Tepe Nautilus, Kadıköy. T: 0216 339 8585. Off map. Palladium, Barbaros Mah. Halk Cad. 6, Kozyatağı. T: 0216 663 1141. Off map. NİŞANTAŞI CITYLIFE This cinema boasts a unique concept on the 6th floor of City’s Shopping Centre in Nişantaşı. After the movie, the fun continues in the foyer with its Bosphorus view. www.citylifecinema.com. Teşvikiye Cad. 162, City’s Shopping Centre, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 373 3535. A6. Entertainment Concerts ENKAUDITORIUM—Luis Ernesto Gomez & La Descarga Big Band Salsa, Fri 8 July-9.15pm. Gomez & La Descarga orchestra present the music of Colombia, Turkey, France, Spain and Portugal in the Salsa Big Band tradition. ‘The Colours of the Balkans’: Balkan Music and Dance, Wed 20 July-9.15pm. This group researches Turkish folk dances and music with the aim of introducing it to the world. Sadi Gülçelik Spor Sitesi, İstinye. T: 0212 276 2214. Off map. HAGIA IRENE MUSEUM — Renée Fleming, Fri 22 July-8pm. American soprano Fleming, considered one of the most extraordinary voices of our times, is accompanied by the Borusan İstanbul Philharmonic Orchestra. Topkapı Palace 1st Courtyard, Sultanahmet, Eminönü. T: 0212 528 4500. F5. HARBİYE CEMİL TOPUZLU OPENAIR THEATRE Gökhan Tepe, Fri 8 July-9pm. The 2011 Summer Concert series continue with Tepe’s lively, moving songs. Feridun Düzağaç Concert, Sat 9 July-9pm. This popular Turkish singer and songwriter is known for his heartfelt, mournful songs. Zuhal Olcay & Bülent Ortaçgil, Sun 10 July-10pm. Two top Turkish musicians join forces tonight in a romantic programme of love songs. Sezen Aksu, Sat 16, Sun 17 July-9pm. One of the top names of Turkish pop for 35 years, selling over 40 million albums worldwide, Aksu presents her songs that have been known and loved in Turkey for decades. Roberto Bolle & Friends, Wed 20, Thu 21 July9pm). This group is led by Roberto Bolle, one of the most prominent men in the world of ballet, accompanied by ten fine dancers. Candan Erçetin, Sat 23, Sun 24 July-9pm. Powerful Turkish pop singer Erçetin in concert. Best of Haris Alexiou with Special Guest Candan Erçetin, Mon 25 July- 9pm. Greece’s most beloved singer Alexiou has devoted her life to the genres of rembetiko, modern laika and Greek folk music. Tonight she is joined by much-loved Turkish singer Erçetin, a rare chance to see these two fine singers together. Sıla, Tue 26 July-9pm. A recently-rising star on the Turkish pop scene, Sıla makes her debut in the Most Open-Air Concert Series for the first time. Çırağan Cad. Salhane Sok. 10, Ortaköy. T: 0212 327 5050. A9. KÜÇÜKÇİFTLİK PARK— Godskitchen Urban Wave: Armin Van Buuren, Sat 2 July. Presented by FG 93.7, number one DJ Armin Van Buuren returns to İstanbul for the Godskitchen Urban Wave Party, and joined by Turkey’s top DJ BeeGee and FG 93.7’s young talent Nurettin Çolak. Elton John, Tue 5 July-9pm. Sir Elton meets his İstanbul fans as part of his 21-country, 47-city world tour. The concert will be preceded by a Chinese dinner from the Dragon Restaurant in the Club House area. Judas Priest, Sun 10 July-2pm. One of the greatest names ever in heavy metal, Judas Priest kicks off their Epitaph world tour. The grand goodbye party also features appearances by Pentagram and Malt. Don’t miss your last chance to see this rock celebration! Bruno Mars, Fri 15 July-9pm. Dubbed ‘the new Michael Jackson’, American singer-songwriter and Grammy award-winning Mars performs his first concert in Turkey. With a magical voice that has earned him a passionate following, the young artist made a major splash with songs including Just The Way You Are and Grenade. Duran Duran, Thu 28 July-9pm. With over 85 million albums sold worldwide, Duran Duran has hit the top 100 lists 21 times over the past 30 years. This legendary British band comes to İstanbul with four of its original members Simon Le Bon (vocals), John Taylor (bass), Nick Rhodes (keyboards) and Roger Taylor (percussion), performing tracks from their new album All You Need is Now plus their classic crowd-pleasing hits from their collection. www.kucukciftlikpark.com. Kadırgalar Yokuşu 5, Maçka. T: 0212 231 3045. D6. TAMİRANE—The weekly Morning Indie And Jazz Sessions present İstanbul’s alternative, independent and contemporary DJs and groups every weekend at 3pm. Candaş Baş a.k.a Cosmicloud, Sat 9 July-3pm. This popular DJ takes the stage with a set of soul, funk, disco and nu-disco. Moe Joe, Sun 10 July-3pm. The Turkish jazz band gives a fun performance of traditional gospel and blues from the 1930s to 1960s. Soul Sendikası, Sat 16 July-3pm. Performing a selection of vintage soul, funk, R&B and gospel, the band’s founding members and İstanbul The Music Never Stops! Efes Pilsen One Love Festival at Santralistanbul Sat 2, Sun 3 July, is two days packed with music and fun. The festival kicks off with Manic Street Preachers, Happy Mondays, Nneka, Büyük Ev Ablukada, 123 and Radyo Babylon Soundsystem on the main stage, plus exciting performances by Turkish bands. The end of the music doesn’t mean the end of the fun though; dance into the night with an Oldies But Goodies party with DJs Mabbas and Murat Beşer. The second day again sees bands from UK, Turkey and around the world, with Suede, Editors, Cake, Neşeli Milis, Sade and Radyo Babylon Soundsystem, concluding with the 3D Disco Party hosted by DJ duo Novak in the party tent. www.santralistanbulorg. Eski Silahtarağa Elektrik Santralı, Kazım karabekir Cad. 2/6, Eyüp. T: 0212 311 7809. Nilüfer & Rock feat. Hayko Cepkin & Badem, Wed 27 July-9pm. Another immortal name in Turkish pop, Nilüfer performs songs from her latest album, accompanied by Cepkin and Badem. Sertab Erener & Demir Demirkan, Fri 29 July-9pm. Popular Turkish female pop vocalist and 2005 Eurovision winner Erener joins guitarist Demirkan in a great performance. MFÖ, Special 40th Anniversary Concert, Sat 30 July-9pm. Legendary Turkish pop group MFÖ invites you join them in their celebratory concert. Gloria Gaynor & Enbe Orkestrası, Sun 31 July-9pm. One of the most interesting collaborations of the July 2011 Summer Concerts: Superstar Gaynor, famed for her 1979 worldwide hit I Will Survive, joins forces with The Enbe Orchestra for an exciting performance. Behind the Hilton Hotel, Harbiye. T: 0212 232 1652. A6. İSTANBUL JAZZ CENTER Kyle Eastwood Band, Tue 5 July-9.30pm, Wed 6 July-11pm. Kyle Eastwood, son of actor Clint Eastwood, first studied film before moving into a successful musical career, and has also written film scores. Join him with his band for a foot-tapping night. Tue-Sat 9:30pm-12:30am. www.istanbuljazz.com. J U LY 2011 I W H E R E İ S TA N B U L 35 Entertainment residents Ansel Mullins and Dirk Vermeiren share their archives with you. Kaan Mete Quartet, Sun 17 July-3pm. Influenced by the gypsy-spirited manouche jazz, the quartet brings its own compositions, plus those by Django Reinhardt, to the Morning Jazz Sessions. Çağıl Kaya Happy People, Sat 23 July-3pm. With a wide repertoire ranging from songs by RH Factor, Michael Jackson and Kenny Garret, Happy People perform pieces flitting between R&B and jazz. Funk-tet, Sun 24 July-3pm. The Turkish quartet performs their jazzfunk and jazz standards. Deform-E, Sat 30 July3pm. This popular DJ set presents a high-octane selection of Black Music and Northern Soul. Dolunay Obruk Quartet, Sun 31 July-3pm. Obruk’s bluesy vocals are accompanied by saxophone, bass guitar, keyboards and drums. www.tamirane.com. Eski Silahtarağa Elektrik Santralı. Kazım Karabekir Cad. 2/8. Eyüp. T: 0212 311 7309. Off map. TRUE BLUE—Mustafa Ceceli, Sat 16 July-8pm. İstanbul International Opera Now in its second year, the İstanbul International Opera Festival returns with a rich and varied programme (1-21 July). Organized by the General Administration of State Opera and Ballet, Turkey’s first and only opera festival boasts eight different opera productions, one gala concert, and a total of 19 different shows. Productions are by regional State Opera and Ballet companies, including from Ankara, İstanbul, İzmir, Mersin, Antalya and Samsun. In addition, some of the world’s most renowned companies take the stage, such as the Munich Gartnerplatztheater and the Badisches Staatstheater Karlsruhe, performing top operatic works in a truly unforgettable festival. HAGIA IRENE MUSEUM — Elina Garanča, Wed 13 July-9pm. Considered the latest Carmen of our times, mezzo-soprano Elina Garanca performs a gala concert for the festival, directed by Maestro Karel Marc Chichon. Topkapı Palace 1st Courtyard, Sultanahmet, Eminönü. T: 0212 528 4500. F5 HALİÇ CONGRESS CENTRE —An Italian Girl in Algiers, Thu 21 July-8.30pm. Set in the 18th century in the Ottoman Algerian Governorship seat of Algiers, Rossini’s opera is performed by German company Badisches Staatstheater Karlsruhe. www.halickongremerkezi.com. Sütlüce Mah. Karaağaç Cad. Beyoğlu. T: 0212 311 1111. Off map. HARBİYE CEMİL TOPUZLU OPENAIR THEATRE — Fatih Sultan Mehmet, Fri 1 July-9pm. The opera Mehmet II, composed by Rossini for the Naples Opera, was first performed in 1820. One of the most important operas concerning the Turkish people, this is the festival’s opening show, performed by the İstanbul State Opera and Ballet. Tosca, Mon 4 July-9pm. The three-act opera Tosca tells the story of Cesare Angelotti, a political criminal 36 W H E R E İ S TA N B U L I J U LY 2011 who has escaped from prison. While seeking refuge, he comes across his painter friend Mario Cavaradossi, lover of the singer Floria Tosca. Topkapı Sarayı-Murat IV, Sat 2, Sun 3 July-9pm. Mersin Opera and Ballet’s three-act opera tells of the 17th Ottoman sultan Murat IV, the subject of many different works. It tells of life in the palace, struggles for the throne, the ban on alcohol and his habit of dressing as a commoner and going out among the people. Zaide, 18-20 July-9pm. In addition to his famuous Abduction from Seraglio, Mozart wrote another opera dealing with the Turks: Zaide, telling of the love between the daughter of an Ottoman sultan and a slave. Performed by the Antalya State Opera and Ballet. Behind the Hilton Hotel, Harbiye. T: 0212 232 1652. A6. RUMELİ HİSARI — The Rise and Fall of the City of Mahagonny, Wed 6, Thu 7 July9pm. Written by German poet, playwright and director Bertolt Brecht, with music by German-American composer Kurt Weill, this is performed by world-renowned Munich Gaertnerplatztheater. The Rumeli Hisarı fortress, usually closed for concerts, has been opened especially for the Opera Festival. Yahya Kemal Cad. 42, Rumeli Hisarı Sarıyer. Off map. YILDIZ PALACE —Abduction from Seraglio, 8-12 July-9pm. Mozart’s famous opera about the Turks is performed in its original location by Samsun State Opera and Ballet orchestra and chorus. Soloists are from İstanbul Opera and Ballet, plus foreign companies. Aşk-ı Memnu (Forbidden Love), 15-17 July-9pm. Adapted to opera from Halit Ziya Uşaklıgil’s novel and written by Turkish composer Selman Ada, the opera is performed by İzmir State Opera and Ballet with a 170-member cast. Barbaros Bulvarı, Hamam Sok. Beşiktaş. T: 0212 258 3080. A8. Turkish pop icon Ceceli entertains his fans with some of his old favourites. Serdar Ortaç, Fri 29 July-8pm). Famous Turkish pop singer Ortaç regales his audience with an unforgettable concert of songs from his Gold 2011 album. Fenerbahçe Kalamış Cad. 90, Fenerbahçe Koyu, Kadıköy. T: 0216 550 5195. Off map. TURKCELL KURUÇEŞME ARENA—Sibel Can, Sat 2 July-9pm. Hitting the stage with songs from her new album Seyyah, Can performs her semiclassical Turkish music on the shores of the Bosphorus. Yaşar, Tue 5 July-9pm. In addition to his own pieces, Yaşar also performs songs from every region of Turkey, Cyprus and Azerbaijan in an Aegean-inspired concert. MFÖ, Wed 13 July-9pm. Turkish band MFÖ, going strong for 40 years, is onstage with their songs that have defied the years. Funda Arar, Sat 16 July-9pm. A major voice of Turkish pop and classical music, Arar performs tracks from her vast repertoire. Tango Feeling, Tue 19 July-9pm. Tango Feeling, led by choreographer Carolina Soler, has transported the soul of Argentina in dazzling shows to Europe, Asia, South Africa and America. Let yourself be swept away by the magic of tango! Ozan Doğulu, Wed 20 July-9pm. Doğulu, best known as a DJ, lunches his album with surprise appearances and brand new songs. Zülfü Livaneli, Thu 21 July-9pm. Not only a singer, but also author, newspaper columnist and political activist, Livaneli’s songs are a fusion of folk music and contemporary sounds, and promote peace and brotherhood. Gülben Ergen, Wed 27 July-9pm. Turkish pop-Arabesque singer Ergen sings songs from her latest album, Şıkır Şıkır. Kenan Doğulu, Fri 29 July-9pm. This popular Turkish pop singer, from a well-known musical family, is a prevalent live performer. www.turkcellarena.com. Muallim Naci Cad. 60, Kuruçeşme. T: 0212 263 3983. Off map. TÜRK TELEKOM ARENA—In addition to football, Galatasaray Sport Club’s new stadium has become one of İstanbul’s most important entertainment arenas with a capacity of almost 53,000, with 157 boxes, VIP areas, a Galatasaray Museum, GS Store sales points, a restaurant and a food court. www.turktelekomarena.com.tr. Bon Jovi, Fri 8 July. Topping the charts last November with their Greatest Hits album, the legendary US rock band performs in İstanbul on their Greatest Hits Tour. Tickets and transportation information at www.biletix.com. Joss Stone Randy Crawford, Joe Sample Natalie Cole İstanbul’s Heart Beats To Jazz Held for the 14th year running by the İstanbul Culture and Arts Foundation, and sponsored by Garanti Bankası, the 18th İstanbul Jazz Festival (1-28 July) pulses to the beat with over 40 concerts by 300 local and foreign artists. This year’s concerts will take place in iconic venues including the Archaeology Museum, Aya Irini, Istanbul Modern, Istinye Park, Cemil Topuzlu Open-Air Theatre and, for the first time, the Tersane Stage and Santralistanbul Waterside Amphitheatre. If that wasn’t enough, the festival also holds 25 side events in various points throughout the city including the Tünel celebration. ESMA SULTAN MANSION —Amadou & Mariam, Mon 18 July-10pm. The music of Mali meets rock guitar, Syrian violin and Indian percussion in an eclectic performance by Amadou & Mariam, in the dramatic atmospheric setting. Muallim Naci Cad. Yalıçıkmazı Sok. 2, Ortaköy. T: 0212 251 4696. Off map. HAGIA IRENE MUSEUM — Meeting of the Masters: ‘Hindistanbul’ Mısırlı Ahmet, Zakir Hussain and Niladri Kumar, Fri 1 July-8.30pm. Famous for his trademark ‘split finger’ technique, Turkish darbuka player Ahmet takes the stage with Indian tabla master and percussionist Zakir Hussain and Indian classical sitar master Niladri Kumar. Topkapı Palace 1st Courtyard, Sultanahmet, Eminönü. T: 0212 528 4500. F5. one of Turkey’s most powerful voices; Israel’s famous Rita; and Glykeria, a popular singer from Greece, accompanied by flamenco artist Javier Limón. Paul Simon, Tue 19 July-9pm. A pioneer in the modern minstrel tradition, American singer songwriter Paul Simon is on his European tour promoting his new solo album, So Beautiful Or So What. Behind the Hilton Hotel, Harbiye. T: 0212 232 1652. A6. İSTANBUL ARCHAEOLOGY MUSEUMS — Michel Camilo, Giovanni Hidalgo, Mon 4 July-9pm. The Dominican jazz pianist and composer plays tracks from his latest album, Mano a Mano. Camilo is joined by Michael Bowie and Goavanni Hidalgi in Latin- and Caribbean-influenced jazz with a swing influence. The Duwala Malambo Project: Richard Bona, Raul Midón, Mon 11 July-9pm. One of the world’s finest bass virtuosos, Bona joins American vocalist, guitarist and songwriter Midón. Bringing together world music, jazz, folk, soul and blues, The Duwala Malambo Project includes Lionel Cordew on percussion and Etienne Stadwijk on keyboards. Osman Hamdi Bey Yokuşu, Sultanahmet. T: 0212 520 7742. E5. HARBİYE CEMİL TOPUZLU OPENAIR THEATRE — Tribute to Miles, Marcus Miller, Herbie Hancock, Wayne Shorter, Thu 7 July-9pm. Twenty years after American musical genius miles Davis’s death, Miller, Shorter (sax) and Hancock (piano) come together for a concert in his honour. Dianne Reeves SALON İKSV—123 Feat. Arve Henriksen, Mon 4 July-10.30pm. Known for their musical fusion of electronic and jazz, 123 has risen in recent years to become one of the most talked about, original groups on the scene. They’re accompanied by Norwegian trumpeter Arve Henriksen, whose instrumental and vocal techniques are influenced by Japanese traditional music. Ferit Odman Quintet Feat. Stefano di Battista, Tue 5 July10.30pm. One of the foremost groups in the world of Turkish jazz, the quintet joins up with hot Italian jazz saxophonist di Battista. Serdar Barçın, İbrahim Maalouf, Wed 6 July-10.30pm. Serdar Barçın, known for his energetic flute technique and exciting improvisations, shares the stage with trumpeter, composer and arranger Maalouf. In addition to the heavy influence of Arab classical music, Maalouf’s music also includes elements of jazz-funk, contemporary rock and electronic music. Alp Ersönmez, Bugge Wesseltoft , Thu 7 July-11pm. Composer, arranger and Turkish bassist Ersönmez joins Norwegian pianist, composer and producer Wesseltoft. Selen Gülün Trio, 11 July-10.30pm. Pianist and jazz composer Selen Gülün leads the trio with Patrick Zambonin and percussionist Jörg Mikula, to perform her elegant, moving and dramatic music. Çağrı Sertel Trio Feat. Wolfgang Mut, Thu 14 July-10.30pm. Bringing together hot names on the Turkish jazz scene with European masters, the European Jazz Club presents the Çağrı Sertel Trio with guest Wolfgang Mut.www.saloniksv.com. Sadi Konuralp Cad. 5, Şişhane. T: 0212 334 0700. F5. SANTRALİSTANBUL—Jamie Cullum, Wed 6 July9pm. Bringing together jazz, melodic pop and rock, Cullum is considered one of England’s truly fine jazz musicians. With his original vocal style, modern piano and warm jazz, he’s sure to give an unforgettable concert. Joss Stone Thu 28 July-9pm. Grammy award-winning English singer-songwriter, Joss Stone makes her debut appearance in Turkey. www.santralistanbulorg. Eski Silahtarağa Elektrik Santralı, Kazım karabekir Cad. 2/6, Eyüp. T: 0212 311 7809. Off map. Sing the Truth: Angelique Kidjo, Dianne Reeves, Lizz Wright, Tue 12 July-9pm. This project revives the powerful songs of master female singers from the world of jazz, folk, R&B, gospel and blues. The project’s stars continue the Afro-American women vocalist tradition with songs by Abbey Lincoln and Odetta plus as Lauryn Hill, Tracy Chapman, Aretha Franklin and the recently departed Miriam Makeba. Randy Crawford - Joe Sample - Natalie Cole, Wed 13 July-9pm. The night opens with Randy Crawford, who serves up an amazing blend of pop, jazz and R&B with his one-of-a-kind vocal technique, taking the stage with pianist ace Joe Sample. They will be followed by multi-Grammy winner Natalie Cole, with her songs of hope and love. Javier Limon’s ‘Mujeres de Agua’ Feat. Buika, Aynur, Rita and Glykeria, Fri 15 July-9pm. Another powerful Women’s Voices project of the İstanbul Jazz Festival, ‘Women of the Water’, features four master female Mediterranean vocalists: Spanish singer Buika, known for her smoky voice; Aynur, Paul Simon TERSANE STAGE —A Strange Place For Jazz: Dan Berglund’s Tonbruket, İlhan Erşahin’s Love Trio feat. Arto Tunçboyacıyan, Randy Brecker/Bill Evans Soulbop feat. Medeski Martin & Wood, Sat 9 July-7pm. The first performance is from Tonbruket, İSTANBUL MUSEUM OF MODERN ART— New Minstrels: Patrick Wolf, Thu 14 July-9.30pm. English singer and composer Patrick Wolf is the first guest of this year’s New Minstrels series, with songs blending folk, pop and electronic music. Wolf stands out as much for his boundless energy, interesting costumes and theatrics on stage, as he does with his music. www.istanbulmodernorg. Meclisi Mebusan Cad. Liman İşletmeleri Müd. Antrepo 4, Karaköy. T: 0212 334 7300. D5. İSTİNYEPARK— Matt Bianco, Fri 1 July-10pm. One of the foremost groups of its kind enjoys a blend of bossa nova, pop and jazz. www.istinyepark.com. İstinye Bayırı Cad. İstinye. T: 0212 345 5555. known for their moving blend of alternative and acoustic rock that draws the audience in from the first chords. They’ll be followed by İlhan Erşahin’s Love Trio with their guest, master musician Tunçboyacıyan. Climax of the evening is from Soulpop, including two stars in their own right: Bill Evans (tenor and soprano sas) and Randy Brecker (trumpet and vocals); and fusion group Medeski, Martin & Wood. Beyoğlu. C5. TÜNEL FEST—Sat 2 July-6pm. This celebration once again serves up a ‘festival within a festival’ for lovers of good music, creating a jazz marathon in Tünel and its surroundings. Look out for artists such as the Neil Cowley Trio, Souljazz Orchestra, Mdungu, East Park Reggae Collective, Okay Temiz and Elif Çağlar. Beyoğlu, Tünel. C5. Shopping Centre Map (p. 16). J U LY 2011 I W H E R E İ S TA N B U L 37 Entertainment/Nightlife A Legendary Return With over 85 million albums sold worldwide, English band Duran Duran has made the top 100 21 times over the last three decades. The legendary group performs at Maçka Küçükçiftlik Park (28 July) with four of its original members: Simon Le Bon (vocals), John Taylor (bass guitar), Nick Rhodes (keyboards) and Roger Taylor (drums). Promoting their new album All You Need Is Now in what promises to be one of İstanbul’s biggest concerts of the year, Duran Duran will also perform songs that left an indelible mark on the 80s and 90s, including Wild Boys, Rio, Girls on Film and Hungry Like The Wolf (p. 35). Nightlife 11.11This new spot in Tepebaşı has a brightly- coloured interior with an unusual lighting system and geometric decor. The early evening hours start out with soft music, eventually taking on a more energetic style. One of İstanbul’s favourite night spots. www.1111.com.tr. Wed-Sat 10pm-4am. Tepebaşı Mah. Meşrutiyet Cad. 69, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 244 8834. C4. AL JAMAL, BADAWIAuthentic decor, majestic and stylish details reminiscent of Ottoman palaces. Little surprises such as a suddenly appearing belly dancer or a woman singing in Arabic pep up the venue. The atmosphere is matched by mouth-pleasing Lebanese and Middle Eastern delicacies. Süleyman Seba Cad. 42/46, Akaretler, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 236 5017. B7. ANJELIQUEThree-storey venue overlooking the Bosphorus, a mix of restaurant, club and bar. The sea-level floor offers the exotic flavours of East Asia, while the middle and top floors serve fine French dishes. Different music on each floor, sometimes by well-known DJs. Daily 5pm-4am. www.istanbuldoors.com. Muallim Naci Cad. Salhane Sok. 10, Ortaköy. T: 0212 327 2844. Off map. ARAF Located in central Beyoğlu, this bar owned by famous İstanbul photographer Ara Güler 38 W H E R E İ S TA N B U L I J U LY 2011 offers a cosy atmosphere, live performances and alternative world music at affordable prices. Daily 5pm-late. www.araf.com.tr. Balo Sok. 32, 6/F Beyoğlu. T: 0212 244 8301. C5. BABYLON Enjoy concerts, extensive menu, cocktail pitchers, electro, house, chill out and world music. Daily 11am-2am. www.babylon.com.tr. Asmalımescit, Şehbender Sok. 3, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 292 7368. C5. BEBEK BAR One of the world’s best bars, this venue has a relaxing ambience with a great choice of drinks, in the midst of the sea. Mon-Sat 8am-12am, Sun 7am-1am. www.bebekotel.com.tr. Cevdet Paşa Cad. 34, Bebek Hotel, Bebek. T: 0212 358 2000. Off map. BLACK LEVENDIZThis Greek tavern with Bosphorus view, located near the Ayios Dimitrios, Ayia Lipsi and Ayios Nikolaos springs, promises nothing but perfection. The table is first adorned with an array of Greek appetizers followed by a meat or fish course. Daily 8pm-1am. www.blackk.net. Muallim Naci Cad. 71, Ortaköy. T: 0 212 236 7256. A9. BLACKK RESTOLOUNGE & CLUBA very popular location in winter, this black-clad spot plays mainly vocal, house and commercial music. Stylish Restolounge on the upper floor offers a weekly updated menu of dishes from world cuisines. Tue-Sat 8pm-4am. www.black.net. Muallim Naci Cad. 71, Ortaköy. T: 0212 236 7256. A9. CAHİDE’NİN LÜKÜS SAZI One of İstanbul’s most original venues, this Russian tavern offers extraordinary appetizers accompanied by Russian dancers and musicians playing nostalgic music in its venue adorned with many fine details. Mon-Sat 8pm-2am. Maçka Demokrasi Parkı 17, Maçka. T: 0212 231 0356. B6. CHARLOTTE BISTROA natural jazz venue in Tarlabaşı with a stylish art-deco interior and relaxed atmosphere, with jazz music. Daily 12pm-2am. www.charlottebistro.com. Asmalımescit, Meşrutiyet Cad. 163/165, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 245 8421. C4. CORRIDORWarm and calm atmosphere during the weekdays with DJs playing tunes from various genres. On weekends the pace pumps up with electronic chill out, funk, pop, rock, hip hop, house and R&B music. Daily 7pm-2am. www.kellergroup.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. Milli Reasürans Çarşısı 47/48, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 343 0241. A6. CUBA BAR Only venue in town that offers Cuban and Latin music all day, with Cuban music bands and DJ performances. Special Caribbean delicacies also. Daily 10am-3pm. www.cubabaristanbul.com. Asmalımescit, Ensiz Sok. 11/1, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 245 7870. C5. Entertainment/Nightlife ÇİÇEK BAR One of the oldest bars in Beyoğlu, this spot is especially popular with artists. Located in a single-storey villa, it is famous for its food, including grilled meatballs, white bean stew with meat and grilled meat on skewers. A classic İstanbul nightspot with painting, photography, jewellery and caricature exhibitions, plus live music on Tues, Wed & Sat. Daily 5pm-12am. www.cicekbar.com. Sıraselviler Cad. Billurcu Sok. 25, Taksim. T: 0212 244 2619. C5. ÇUBUKLU 29 Overlooking the Bosphorus, Çubuklu 29 occupies a spacious building illuminated by lanterns. In addition to its pool open during the day, it also hosts special parties at night. Tandoori lamb, pilaf with almonds and grilled meatballs are just some of the specialties on offer. Daily 6pm3am. www.cubuklu29.com. Paşabahçe Yolu 24, Çubuklu. T: 0216 322 2829. Off map. DADA Offering tapas-style fusion cuisine with seven courses in each meal, this venue also hosts arts events. www.dadaistanbul.com. Daily 7pm-4am. Sıraselviler Cad. 12, Taksim. T: 0212 243 9595. C5. DISCORIUM Offers a different theme every night, with mainly electronic, Latin, rock and house music, and R ‘n’ B nights on Thurs popular with a young crowd. Fri nights see leading singers perform, as sponsored by Powertürk radio station. Wed-Sat 11:30pm-4:30am. Yıldız Posta Cad. Sinan Pasajı, 38/26, Gayrettepe. T: 0212 347 1347. A7. DOGZSTAR Hosting electronic and alternative DJs and singers, this spot over 3 floors offers a variety of entertainment options. Mainly electronic, IDM, funk and house music. www.dogzstar.com. Daily 10pm-4am. Kartal Sok. 3/3, Galatasaray, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 244 9147. C5. EELENCE Playing Turkish songs from past to present, this venue hosts prominent DJs, plus top cocktails and unlimited entertainment. Tue- Sat 11:30pm-4am. www.eelence.com. Meşrutiyet Cad. 89/A, across from the Pera Palas Hotel, Asmalımescit, Beyoğlu. T: 0534 632 0186. C4. GARAJİSTANBULA contemporary performance arts centre located in Beyoğlu, staging a variety of performances inc theatre, dance, festivals, exhibitions, and concerts. Daily 8.30pm-2am. www.garajistanbul.org. Tomtom Mah. Yeni Çarşı Cad. Kaymakam Reşat Bey Sok. 11/A, Galatasaray, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 244 4499. C5. GHETTO Located in a renovated historical building, Ghetto is particularly popular for its local and foreign live performances, concerts, after-hour parties, electronic, drum & bass, chill out, funk, jazz, indie and ethnic music. Armenian cuisine. www.ghettoist.net. Daily 10am-7pm, organization time: 7pm-3am. Kamer Hatun Cad. 10, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 251 7501. C5. GİZLİ BAHÇE Quiet and relaxing venue located in an old Beyoğlu building, which gets busy on Fri & Sat nights. Alternative, rock, pop, acid jazz music played with a different genre every day. Mon-Thu & Sun 12pm-2am, Fri, Sat 12pm-4am. Nevizade Sok. 15. Beyoğlu. T: 0212 249 2192. C5. HAYAL KAHVESİ This popular venue hosts live performances by different bands every night. www.hayalkahvesibeyoglu.com.tr. Hayal Kahvesi Beyoğlu, Daily 12pm-4am. İstiklal Cad. Büyükparmakkapı Sok. 19, Taksim. T: 0212 244 2558. C5. Hayal Kahvesi Çubuklu, Daily 12pm-4am. There are 2 restaurants; Tapas and İstanbul Balık. www.hayalkahvesi.com. Burunbahçe, Eski Gazhane Binaları, Çubuklu. T: 0216 413 6880. Off map. INDIGO Known as a temple of electronic music, this club offers a vibrant programme based on alternative and electronic music, with new sounds and reflecting the developments in the world of music. Wed, Fri, Sat 11pm-5am. www.livingindigo.com. İstiklal Cad. Akarsu Sok. Mısır Apt. 1/2/4/5, Galatasaray. T: 0212 244 8567. C5. İSTANBUL JAZZ CENTERThe centre of İstanbul’s jazz scene, this venue hosts world-renowned musicians as well as select local performers. It offers a real jazz club experience with its elegant atmosphere, selective menu, extensive wine cellar, breathtaking view of its summer terrace by harmoniously combining the best of music and good taste. Tue-Sat 9:30pm-12:30am. www.istanbuljazz.com. Çırağan Cad. Salhane Sok. 10, Ortaköy. T: 0212 327 5050. A9. JAZZY BARAn elite restaurant frequented by artists around İstiklal Caddesi, this venue has a menu of predominantly Italian dishes including salmon fettuccini and tortellini with walnuts and Roquefort. Designed as a café-restaurant, the venue transforms into a bar at night. Pop, rock and Latin as well as light hip hop, techno and house music. Daily 9am-2am. Cihangir Cad. 35/B, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 244 2373. C6. JOLLY JOKER BALANSWith its fine acoustics and infrastructure, this is a groundbreaking venue in sound quality in Turkey. Among the many genres performed are live electronic, acoustic, funk, pop, rock, hip hop, house and techno. www.balansmusichall.com. İstiklal Cad. Balo Sok. 22, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 251 7762. C5. KALAMATA MEYHANESortie’s Tavern took its new name after its relocation to Akaretler. Its warm atmosphere and simple interior become even more inviting with live music performances five days a week. The venue is run by one of the few female tavern owners in Turkey, Beyza Gürbüzer, who also prepares the mezes herself. Daily 8pm-2am. Süleyman Seba Cad. Sıraevler 45, Akaretler, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 258 8788. B7. KOKOSH BY ASMALI MEYHANE Located at the entrance of Asmalımescit, this is known for its striking comfortable seating, leaf framed mirrors, crystal chandeliers and mannequins. With its delicious array of appetizers and a great bar, performers entertain diners. Thu, Fri, Sat 8pm-2am. www.asmalikokosh.com. Asmalımescit, Meşrutiyet Cad. 83/C, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 293 2547. C4. LİMONLU BAHÇEA hidden jewel located behind the French Palace. Specialities include lemonade cocktails, homemade liqueurs and desserts. Food service. Daily 8:30am-1am. www.limonlubahce.com. Tomtom Mah. Yeni Çarşı Cad. 98, Galatasaray, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 252 1094. C5. LOKAL Located in the relative peace of Tünel, this venue features a menu of Indian and Thai dishes fortified with Iranian herbs to create new and unique flavors. A relaxing, special club. Mon-Thu 12pm-12am, Fri, Sat 2pm-2am. Asmalımescit, Müeyyet Sok. 5, Tünel. T: 0212 245 5743. C5. LUCCASpacious restaurant-bar with ample armchairs, long wooden tables and a high ceiling, serving as a café until 7pm, after which the menu offers a blend of world cuisines and the DJ performance takes over. Bustling in the evenings very night, this is one of İstanbul’s most popular SPOTLIGHT Bon Jovi, Back After 18 Years Back in İstanbul for the first time in 18 years with their Greatest Hits Tour, the Grammy award-winning rock group Bon Jovi play at the Türk Telekom Arena (8 July). Rising to the Number 1 group in the world with their album Bon Jovi Greatest Hits, the band has brought a 747 plane and 65 trucks full of equipment for their İstanbul concert. With 125 million albums sold and 2,700 concerts performed worldwide, this is bound to be a sell-out-so act fast to get your tickets (p. 36)! J U LY 2011 I W H E R E İ S TA N B U L 39 Entertainment/Nightlife bars, and popular with the after-work crowd. Daily 9am-2am. www.luccastyle.com. Cevdetpaşa Cad. 51/B, Bebek. T: 0212 257 1255. Off map. LUX Located in Beyoğlu’s historical Suriye Pasajı, Lux has a bar and lounge section on the ground floor, and above is a fireplace lounge and dining area. Lux treats its guests to soul, funk, nu disco and soulful house played by top-name DJs, and to accompany that is Turkish fusion cuisine, local and imported wines and vodkas. Tue-Thu 6pm-2am. Fri & Sat 6pm-4am. www.lux-istanbul.com. İstiklal Cad. Suriye Pasajı, 166/10, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 252 7181-82. C5. MACHKA PARK MEYHANESİ In this tavern, unique new flavours are created by chef Harun Yıldız. This tavern-style restaurant is also a favourite location right in the middle of the city, popular with people of all ages. Mim Kemal Öke Cad. 4-5-6, Maçka. T: 0212 231 1550. A6. MIX, THEThis unique venue hosts live performances on Friday and Saturday nights. Daily 11pm-4am. www.themix.com. Muallim Naci Cad. 65, Ortaköy. T: 0212 258 2848. A9. MOJITOTaking the the fun to the Bosphorus, the already legendary club Mojito has given Kuruçeşme nightlife a shot in the arm. If you’re looking to dance by the water under the open sky until the crack of dawn, then reserve your place early. Mon-Sat 11pm-3am. Muallim Naci Cad. 103, Kuruçeşme. T: 0212 265 6912. Off map. MOJOJust off İstiklal Caddesi and much frequented by artists and writers, Mojo is loved for its alternative rock, jazz, ethnic and rock music as well as live music by local and foreign bands on Wed, Fri&Sat. Daily 12am-4am. www.mojomusic.org. Büyükparmakkapı Sok. 26, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 243 2927. C5. MY HOUSE Enjoy all flavours of music from jazz to classical, electronica and house, accompanied by a great panoramic view of the Bosphorus and Princes’ Islands. Occasional theme nights, plus a menu featuring Mediterranean and world cuisines. Daily 11:30pm-2am. www.beerhouse.com.tr. Sıraselviler Cad. 35/1, Taksim. T: 0212 244 2526. C5. NAHİDE MOTEL Guests are given different J&B keys with designs based on the concept of each room at Nahide, which takes a very unique approach to entertainment. Bellboys take guests and their luggage to the selected rooms. Fairy tale characters approach in an erotic and humorous way. In the wee hours, Nahide’s show team presents a wet dance performance under a shower. With its distinct concept, Nahide offers unlimited entertainment, and is open for special events. Mon-Sat 8:30pm-4am. Kadırgalar Cad. Maçka Demokrasi Parkı 2, Maçka. T: 0212 219 6531. B6. NARDIS JAZZ CLUBA true jazz club for real local jazz fans, with live music every night playing modern, ethnic and creative non-jazz works. Extensive menu inc finger food, steak and chicken plus salads and desserts. Mon-Thu 8:30am12:30pm, Fri&Sat 8:30am-1:30am. www.nardisjazz.com. Kule Sok. 8, Galata. T: 0 212 244 6327. D5. NİHAVEND FASIL Brick and wooden decor, delicious appetizers and main courses accompanied by the most distinguished singers of Turkish classical and pop music. Fixed menu. 40 W H E R E İ S TA N B U L I J U LY 2011 Daily 8pm-4am. Nispetiye Mah. Aytar Cad. 3/10, Levent İş Hanı, Etiler. T: 0212 268 5862. Off map. NOMADSAt Nomads, dishes are served with pita bread on large brass trays, accompanied by DJ Hakan’s sublime mix of Arab and Western music. With a bright, airy garden surrounded by alcoves with pillows and couches, and Bosphorus views from the top floor, Nomads provides a magical atmosphere for a great evening. www.nomads.nl. Muallim Naci Cad. 65, Ortaköy. T: 0212 258 0777. A9. NUBLU İSTANBUL BABYLON One of New York’s most cutting edge music venues, Nublu is a place where young musicians create, discuss, meet the masters, and develop new ideas and projects. With its own unique musical scene, its stage is open to anyone and everyone making good music. Nublu İstanbul, just like its namesake in New York’s East Village, is a place where today’s music is created, every day. Mon-Sat 10pm-2am. www.nubluistanbul.net. Jurnal Sok. 4, Asmalımescit. T: 0212 245 3800. C5. NU PERA Launched in 2001 in the 200 year-old Passage de Petit Champs, Nupera houses a variety of restaurants, a bar and private club with an open terrace during the summer – something for everyone. www.nupera.com.tr. Meşrutiyet Cad. 67, Tepebaşı, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 245 6070. C4. PEYOTEAlternative rock, rock, pop, techno and underground music at this spot on Nevizade Street, with live music every night. Enjoy Turkish tea during the day on the terrace and live music on the lower floor in the evenings. Daily 1pm-4am. www.peyote.com.tr. Kameriye Sok. 4, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 251 4398. C5. RAKKAS Distinctive interior and warm atmosphere, serving Turkish plus international cuisines. Live music and Turkish classical music sessions at weekends. Wed, Fri-Sun 8pm-2am. www.rakkas.com.tr. Gümüşyolu Cad. 19, Nakkaştepe, Altunizade. T: 0216 310 5395. Off map. REINA Gazing over the Bosphorus, you can begin your night out dining in one of its six different restaurants featuring diverse themes. Entertainment every night with chill out, pop and Turkish pop music. Very glamorous; phone to make reservations. Daily 7pm-4am. www.reina.com.tr. Muallim Naci Cad. 44, Ortaköy. T: 0212 259 5919. A9. ROXYA classic of the bohemian Cihangir district in winter, this nightclub features live, electronic, pop, techno and underground music. Its Sex on the Beach cocktail is famous. Thu-Sat 10pm-4am. www.roxy.com.tr. Sıraselviler Cad. Aslan Yatağı Sok. 3, Taksim. T: 0212 249 1283. C5. SAKMAN BARThis bar features live music by a different singer every day. Drinks served with fruit and appetizers. Booking required. Daily 10:30pm-till late. www.sakmanistanbul.com. Cezayir Sok. 8, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 249 2541. C5. SCOTCH DISCOWith a 20-year history, this venue offers Turkish music and DJs, offering the unique experience of the music halls of the 1980s. Serves beer and fresh popcorn. Daily 9pm- 5am. www.scotchclub.com.tr. Mim Kemal Öke Cad. 29/1, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 241 6069. A6. SEFARADA cosy two-storey tavern in Ortaköy, with exceptional décor and artwork. Menu includes mainly fish courses, plus meat and a vast variety of appetizers. Daily 5pm-2am. Muvakkit Sok. 21/B, Ortaköy. T: 0212 261 2983. A9. SOFYALI 9Very popular two-storey restaurant with the atmosphere of an Aegean-Mediterranean taverna. Greek music and cuisine including a choice of 33 meze (appetizers). Mon-Sat 12pm-1am. www.sofyali.com. Asmalımascit, Sofyalı Sok. 9, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 245 0362. C5. SORTIESortie is home to a host of restaurants, each with a different speciality, inc Sortie Restoran, Fishmekan, Venge, Al Mahara, Niwa, Cafe de Paris, Fratelli la Bufala, Rodizio and more. Sortie welcomes its guests with Turkish music on Wednesdays and R&B on Sunday nights. Daily 6pm-4am. www.sortie.com.tr. Muallim Naci Cad. Kuruçeşme. T: 0212 327 8585. Off map. SUADA CLUBİstanbul residents and visitors alike take refuge from the heat of summer in the soft Bosphorus breeze sweeping the pool and restaurants of Suada Club. Easily accessible thanks to its central location in the city, and housing six restaurants, Suada Club is sure be a hot spot this year as well. An ideal spot for an aperitif after work, the middle bar of Suada Club entertains its guests throughout the summer with live performances. www.suadaclu.com.tr. Kuruçeşme. T: 0212 263 7300. Off map. SULTANA’S 1001 NIGHTS SHOWVenue offering authentic Turkish themed shows. Tables surround a raised centre stage, featuring shows that begin with belly-dancing, followed by folk dances and a harem show. Ottoman Cuisine. Daily 9am-5am. www.sultanasb-nights.com. Cumhuriyet Cad. 40/D, Elmadağ. T: 0212 219 3904. B6. SUPERMARKET BY LONGTABLE Located in the Sofa Hotel, Longtable Supermarket serves Italian, Japanese and Chinese among its international cuisines. The most striking element in the design, painstakingly executed by Tuvana Büyükçınar, is the use of shopping carts. Choose your favourite from their wide selection of cocktails and enjoy the laid-back house music; make a point of checking out their Tuesday parties. Mon-Sat 8pm-2am. Sofa Oteli, Teşvikiye Cad. 123, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 224 8181. A6. SUPPER CLUB Part of a chain launched in Amsterdam, this nightclub offers electronic, chill out, funk and house music, and an alternative menu. Daily 8:30pm-5am. www.supperclub.com. Muallim Naci Cad. 65, Ortaköy. T: 0212 261 1988. A9. ŞAMDAN ETİLER Offering a magnificent interior and selections from world cuisines, Şamdan turns into a popular entertainment spot at night. The evening starts with soft chansons, replaced by disco hits as the night progresses. Daily D. www.etilersamdan.com. Nispetiye Cad. 92, Etiler. T: 0212 257 3042. Off map. ŞARABİ Located by the entrance of the Flower Passage (Çiçek Pasajı), this is one of the most popular wine houses in Beyoğlu. The lower floor has been built in a historical cistern of a waterway extending from Tophane, a legacy of the Genoese. Daily 12pm-2am. www.sarabi.com.tr. İstiklal Cad. 174, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 244 4609. C5. TAMİRANEA remodelled water purification plant, Tamirane is a new platform for major genres like jazz, nujazz, trip hop, lounge, indie, electronica and funk. Featuring weekly gigs, Tamirane also offers a selection of fine food and drinks in a unique urban Entertainment/Nightlife atmosphere. www.tamirane.com. Eski Silahtarağa Elektrik Santralı. Kazım Karabekir Cad. 2/8. Eyüp. T: 0212 311 7309. Off map. TAPS BEBEK Located in a three-storey waterside house, this restaurant offers beer from its own brewery to accompany its top-notch delicacies. Menu includes a vast array of dishes from various world cuisines – the seafood and risotto are particularly recommended. Daily 11pm-2am. www.tapsbebek.com. Cevdetpaşa Cad. 119, Bebek. T: 0212 263 8700. Off map. THE BOWBERRS BARThe feel of a British pub with a warm, wood interior, fireside sofas and rugs. Menu includes main courses, snacks, pizzas, grills and desserts, in addition to a rich whisky and wine list. Mon-Sat 12pm-2am, Sun 10:30am-1:30pm. Münir Nurettin Selçuk Cad. 38, Kalamış. T: 0216 450 1393. Off map. WANNA Far Eastern restaurant and nightclub Wan-na now welcomes its guests in a new location in Kanyon. One of İstanbul’s classiest and most popular nightspots, it is especially popular on Fri nights with its DJ music. Daily D&N. www.istanbuldoors.com. Büyükdere Cad. 185, Kanyon Shopping Centre 206, Levent. T: 0212 353 1180. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). W LOUNGE One of the trendiest spots in İstanbul, hosting a multitude of parties accompanied by fine music. Extensive menu, stylish decoration and ambiance. Daily 24 hours. www.wistanbul.com.tr. Süleyman Seba Cad. 22, Akaretler, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 381 2121. B7. ZİHNİA legend in İstanbul’s nightlife with its historical atmosphere and exquisite world cuisines served in a unique Turkish style. Delicious appetizers add to the pleasure of the drinks. Mediterranean cuisine. Mon-Sat 5pm-4am. www.zihnibar.biz. Valikonağı Cad. 39, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 248 8033. A6. ZARİFİ RESTAURANT Prepared daily, menus feature 80 selections from the best of Armenian, Greek, Jewish, Arab, Turkish and Levantine cuisines. The restaurant is also known for its wide range of music, from old İstanbul songs to Sephardic, Greek and jazz music. Daily 8pm-4am. www.zarifi.com.tr. Çukurlu Çeşme Sok. 13, Sıraselviler, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 293 5480. C5. Wine Bars CORVUS WINE & BITE Located in Akaretler, this small, cosy venue is a popular weekend spot. A good selection of wines, with cheeses from all over Turkey along with tapas dishes. Daily 10am10pm. www.wineandbite.com. Şair Nedim Cad. 5, Akaretler. T: 0212 260 5470. B7. ROUGE Located near Taksim Square, this classic wine bar has over 260 Turkish and foreign wines, accompanied by local cheese, appetizers and main courses. Pleasant atmosphere, with walls filled with art. Daily 10am-2am. Lamartin Cad. 11/3, Taksim. T: 0212 237 0190. B6. SENSUS WINE & CHEESE BOUTIQUE Owned by the Anemon Hotels, Sensus is also a wine and cheese shop. Close to the historic Galata Tower, this typical wine bar boasts exclusively local cheeses and wines. Daily 10am-10pm. www.sensus.com. Anemon Hotel Galata, Büyükhendek Cad. 5, Kuledibi. D4. J U LY 2011 I W H E R E İ S TA N B U L 41 Dining Stop By Den For Special Treat On Mim Kemal Öke St., one of the most beautiful streets in Nişantaşı, far from the hustle and bustle of the district and under the shade of trees is the Den Café. From an exquisite breakfast to lunch and dinner menus running the gamut from salads to pasta, snack foods and meat and vegetarian dishes, there’s something to please every taste. Some of the all-time favourites on the menu include the grilled filet mignon served with potatoes with cream and caramelized onions and sautéed spinach root; the sea bass risotto, spinach salad with avocado and artichokes, and penne with filet mignon (p. 50). European Side BEŞİKTAŞ BOSPHORUS COASTLINE AKINTI BURNU Fish and Seafood. This lovely restaurant in Arnavutköy offers a glorious Bosphorus view, freshly-caught fish and seafood, and mezes prepared daily. The mackerel with soy sauce, baked shellfish and quince dessert are some of the favourites. !!!"Daily L&D. Bebek Cad. 115, Akıntıburnu, Arnavutköy. T: 0212 263 4829. Off map. ANGEL BLUE Fish and Seafood. Baltalimanı Angel Blue is a warm restaurant with a cosy interior, blending style, originality, creativity and taste. Discover new flavours against a superb view of the Bosphorus. Brunch on Sundays from 10am to 2pm. !!! Daily L&D. www.angelblue.com.tr. Rumeli Hisarı, Sakıp Sabancı Cad. 82, Baltalimanı. T: 0212 229 2525. Off map. ANTICA LOCANDA Italian. This restaurant operates in a restored building that once housed a bakery, near the Taxiarchis Greek Orthodox Church, in Arnavutköy. The food is regional Italian, and every dish prepared here must pass the muster of Chef Giancarlo. Fresh tonnarelli with pecorino and black pepper are perfection itself. Try the panini with melted mozzarella, sautéed artichoke, anchovies and tomato confit, and the crostino di 42 W H E R E İ S TA N B U L I J U LY 2011 mare e monti. !!!"Tue-Sun L&D. Satış Meydanı 12, Arnavutköy. T: 0212 287 9745. Off map. AQUA Mediterranean. One of the most ambitious restaurants in İstanbul with its master chefs, unparalleled service and excellent location. Modern interior. Mainly Mediterranean and Italian dishes, including the popular cheese ravioli, roast lamb, and chocolate tiramisu with mixed fruit sauce. !!!! Daily B, L&D. 6am-11pm. www.fourseasons.com. Four Seasons Bosphorus, Çırağan Cad. 28, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 381 4059. A9. BANYAN Asian (Modern). The exquisite flavours of the Far East. Famous for its omelette varieties from 20 countries. Brunch on Sundays. The lunch and dinner menus include samosa with Vietnamesestyle vegetable chili sauce, Singapore-style noodles and sushi. !!!! Daily L&D. www.banyanrestaurant.com. Muallim Naci Cad. Salhane Sok. 3, Ortaköy. T: 0212 259 9060-70. A9. BEBEK BALIKÇI Fish and Seafood. This restaurant located in the upmarket neighbourhood of Bebek on the Bosphorus serves a full array of seafood, with specialities including grilled and pan-fried fish, and fish cooked in paper. !!!! Daily L&D. www.bebekbalikci.net. Cevdetpaşa Cad. 26/A, Bebek. T: 0212 263 3447. Off map. BEBEK BRASSERIE International. Warm atmosphere and fine cuisine in the heart of the Bosphorus, with an interior designed by famous Belgian architect Frederic Haesevoets and a gorgeous Bosphorus view. In addition to breakfast, dinner specialities include duck confit, lamb T-Bone, and chocolate coconut cake. !!! Daily L & D; Sat-Sun B. www.divan.com.tr. Cevdetpaşa Cad. 28/A, Bebek. T: 0212 263 2973. Off map. BLACKK LEVENDIZ RUM MEYHANESİ Greek. This top-floor Greek tavern with Bosphorus view, located near the Ayios Dimitrios, Ayia Lipsi and Ayios Nikolaos springs, serves top quality cuisine. The table is first laid with an array of Greek appetizers; followed by exceptional grilled fish, meat or chicken entrees. !!! Daily 8pm-1am. www blackk.net. Muallim Naci Cad. 71, Ortaköy. T: 0212 236 7256. A9. CHILAI International. Located directly on the Bosphorus, the venue brings a breath of fresh air to İstanbul’s nightlife with its unusual contemporary décor and bold dishes prepared by renowned chefs. The three-floor dining complex includes a sushi bar, bistro, lounge, bar, dining room, pastry shop, charcuterie and art gallery. Times vary for the different sections so call ahead. !!!" www.chilai.com.tr. Cevdetpaşa Cad. 60, Bebek. T: 0212 263 6315. Off map. BEST OF İSTANBUL DINING PARK FORA Park Fora has long been renowned as one of İstanbul’s most elegant restaurants, which you’ll instantly realise on entering its waterfront terrace. The exclusive ambiance is matched by a stellar Bosphorus view, amazing park setting and outstanding service. There’s a huge variety of beautifully presented seafood, such as stuffed anchovies and marinated sea bass, plus a brilliant selection of wines from around the world to raise the bar for restaurants throughout the city. Muallim Naci Cad. Cemil Topuzlu Parkı İçi 54/A, Ortaköy. T: 0212 265 5063. www.parkfora.com SUDA KEBAP Located on a tiny man-made island on the Bosphorus, between the Europe and Asia, Suada is a unique nightlife venue with an unbeatable location, incorporating dining, music and fine wines. Suda Kebap is just one of its restaurants, taking its cuisine seriously, bringing in kebab masters from Antep. Specialities include poppy seed kebab and pistachio kebab, plus special regional dishes including tiny meatballs with yogurt or a tart sauce, saffron pilaf and lamb cooked with plums. Galatasaray Adası, Kuruçeşme. T: 0212 265 1163, www.sudakebap.com MIRROR With a vast menu served up by Italian chef Rocco Strazzera and a modern, chic decor, Mirror Reina’s priority is clearly comfortable, pleasant dining in this top nightlife hub. Popular dishes include the fried seafood platter, home-made seafood linguini, tagliatelle all’aragosta and special Pear William sorbet – if you’ve left enough space. Worth dressing up for and mixing with the celebrities! Reina, Muallim Naci Cad. 44, Ortaköy. T: 0212 258 6665. www.reina.com.tr VENGE The ideal venue for a kebab feast with its menu of Turkish cuisine and the most delicious examples of the Southeast Anatolian cuisine, Venge serves at Sortie this summer. In addition to the classic flavours in its extensive menu that boasts a rich array of meze and kebab varieties, Venge also offers novelties. Its Venge Beyti and döner are particularly in high demand. Warm and cold starters, particularly mini lahmacuns are very mouth-pleasing, but don’t end this dining experience before you try one of its heavenly desserts including künefe or fırın sütlaç. Sortie, Muallim Naci Cad. 141-142, Kuruçeşme. T : 0212 327 8585. www.sortie.com.tr AD VER TISEMENT J U LY 2011 I W H E R E İ S TA N B U L 43 Dining EFTALYA Fish and Seafood. With a maritime- themed interior complete with mermaid reliefs, choose your fish and enjoy appetizers with marvellous Bosphorus views. Be sure to try the tomato and onion salad, fried calamari and seasonal fish varieties. !!! Daily L&D. www.eftalya.net. Arnavutköy Mah. 1. Cad. 32, SPOTLIGHT Mangerie has been a top eating spot for Istanbul and Bebek socialites. With its extensive menu and wine list to match, plus a commanding view of Bebek Bay, it’s become an Istanbul classic. Try the lamb and hand-cut noodle salad, the skewered shrimp and Mangerie burger. !! Daily B&L&D. http://www.mangeriebebek.com. Cevdet Paşa Cad. 69, Küçükbebek. T: 0212 263 5199. Off map. EL BESO International. Artful and delicious menu FERİYE LOKANTASITurkish (Traditional). Historical building that housed a police station a century ago. Menu offers Turkish and Ottoman cuisines, with excellent Bosphorus views and stylish ambiance. Specialities include sauteed lamb fillet and pumpkin dessert. Heated terrace in winter. !!!! Daily L&D. www.feriye.com. Çırağan Cad. 40, Ortaköy. T: 0212 227 2216. A9. FİLİZ RESTAURANT Fish and Seafood. A feast of fresh and masterfully cooked fish and rakı, along with Bosphorus views make for a memorable dinner. If you happen to find it in season, try the steamed gurnard and hot red mullet pilaki. !!! Daily L&D. www.filizrest.com. Haydar Aliyev Cad. 166, Tarabya. T: 0212 262 0544. Off map. FISHMEKAN Fish and Seafood. Located in one of the oldest and most beautiful neighbourhoods on the Bosphorus, Fishmekan offers an exquisite ambiance for its fresh traditional seafood expertly served. !!! Daily L&D. www.fishmekan.com.tr. Arnavutköy Cad. 60, Arnavutköy. T: 0212 358 5158-59. Off map. FREDERIC’SSteak & Lobster House. İstanbul’s first and only steak and lobster restaurant, Frederic’s boasts a huge selection of both. Highlights on the menu include The Diamond of the Kitchen with truffles, lobster fettuccini, black squid ink risotto and Bursa chestnut soufflé. Daily L&D. !!!! www.wistanbul.com.tr. W Istanbul, Süleymen Seba Cad. 22, 3/F, Akaretler. T: 0212 381 2198. B7. GBALIK SUADA International. A real treat for fish and seafood lovers. Famed for its view and specialties, the restaurant has an aquarium where customers can select the fish or lobster of their choice. Fish dishes simply and expertly maintain their natural flavour. Appetizers meticulously prepared and presented in the old İstanbul tradition. !!!! Daily L&D. www.gbalik.com. SuAda Club/Galatasaray Adası, Kuruçeşme. T: 0212 263 6556. Off map. HANEDAN BALIK RESTORAN Fish and Seafood. A popular tourist attraction owing to its location in Beşiktaş facing Maiden’s Tower, Beylerbeyi Palace and the Bosphorus. Specialties include seafood crepes and oven-baked angler. Book in advance. !!! Daily L&D. www.hanedanrestaurant.com. Çiğdem Sok. 3, Barbaros Bulvarı, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 259 4017. B8. IL PORTO Italian. Another perfect view of the Bosphorus on Bebek Bay, this high-quality restaurant offers exquisite dishes and drinks from Italy, Turkey and the Mediterranean. Specialities on its extensive menu include homemade salmon 44 W H E R E İ S TA N B U L I J U LY 2011 Off map. MANGERIEBistro & Café. From the day it opened, Arnavutköy. T: 0212 287 2520. Off map. matched by DJ performances that add more zest to the night. Tables by the fireplace transform cold winter days into a warm pleasure while summers are just as delightful with cocktails outdoors on the venue’s terrace. El Beso’s wide selection of tapas, paella with saffron, and sea bass with potatoes. !!!! Daily B, L&D. Muallim Naci Cad. 64/D, Kuruçeşme. T: 0212 287 5759. A9. Fri 7.30pm; Sun 11 am. !!!!"Kuruçeşme harbour, across from Galatasaray Island. T: 0212 219 1996 MAVİ YEŞİL Fish and Seafood. The fish and rakı Authentic İstanbul And Anatolian Cuisine Lives Here An established brand serving traditional İstanbul cuisine, Borsa Restaurant has opened a new branch in the İstinyePark Shopping Centre. This chic, two-storey venue serves Turkish and Ottoman dishes. Soup of the day, olive oil dishes, Turkish dumplings, grilled meat and fish varieties, regional tastes and Turkish desserts are served with an extensive choice of liquors. İçli köfte and keşkek are highly popular among its guests. Excellent venue for a small break to a shopping spree whether for coffee or to take a drink. İstinye Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre K:1 D:461, İstinye. T: 0212 345 5333. tagliatelle, kebab with mashed eggplant, classic pizzas and risotto with seafood. Brunch on Sundays. !!"Daily L&D. www.ilportobistro.com. Cevdet Paşa Cad. 58/1, Bebek. T: 0212 287 9534. Off map. KIYI Fish and Seafood. A unique fish restaurant on the Bosphorus with wood-paneled décor and photographs and paintings by Turkish artists that give an intimate club feel. Try the delicious seafood and liver dishes. !!!"Daily L&D. www.kiyi.com.tr. Haydar Aliyev Cad. 188, Tarabya. T: 0212 262 0002. Off map. LES OTTOMANS 29 International. On the shores of the Bosphorus, this glorious interior sports a strong Ottoman theme. Magnificent menu includes antipasto, risottos, pizzas and desserts. !!!! Daily L&D. www.lesottomans.com. Muallim Naci Cad. 68, Hotel Les Ottomans, Kuruçeşme. T: 0212 359 1529. Off map. LUXURY CRUISE ‘BOSPHORUS PRINCESS’ If you’re in search of an out-of-the-ordinary Bosphorus experience this month, then look no further. From 1-29 July, the Bosphorus Princess yacht is the perfect solution with something to suit everyone. Wednesday and Thursday feature fine dining and live music; Friday night is fish night, with jazz; and on Sunday mornings you can enjoy a beautiful Bosphorus jazz breakfast. Departures: Wed, Thu, tradition is as delightful as it gets here in this spacious, comfortable dining room. Make a point of trying the salt-cured fish and grilled calamari. !!!! Daily L&D. www.mavibalik.com. Muallim Naci Cad. 64/2, Kuruçeşme. T: 0212 265 5480. Off map. MAYAInternational. Opened in Karaköy by chef Didem Şenol, Maya uses all organic, seasonal ingredients. With separate lunch and dinner menus, the restaurant is especially proud of its original cocktails, as well as its legume salad with lentils and pomegranate, grilled sea bass salad and selection of appetizers. !!!"Mon-Sun L&D. www.lokantamaya.com. Kemankeç Cad. 35/A, Karaköy. T: 0212 252 6884. D5. MİNYON International. Minyon presents world cuisine in a modern, unpretentious ambiance. Minyon’s olives, 29-day aged rib eye schnitzel, and chocolate almond tart are just a few of their very special dishes. !!! www.wminyon.com. W İstanbul, Süleyman Seba Cad. 22, Akaretler, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 381 2121. B7. MÜZEDECHANGA Mediterranean (Modern). With award-winning interior design, located in the Sakıp Sabancı Museum, the restaurant takes in breathtaking Bosphorus views and centuriesold pine trees, with an excellent menu to match. Wallpaper magazine chose Müzedechanga as the best new restaurant of 2007. Be sure to try the fresh blackeyed peas with hazelnut tarator, filet mignon with green bulgur pilaf, tortellini with spinach and lor cheese, mosaic pastry and chestnut tiramisu. !!! Tue-Sat L&D, Sat-Sun B. www.changa-istanbul.com. Sakıp Sabancı Cad. 42, Atlıköşk, Emirgan. T: 0212 323 0901. Off map. PARK FORA Fish and Seafood. Popular restaurant offering delicious seafood and high-quality service. Appetizers include salted bonito, octopus salad, shrimp roquefort and grilled calamari. Fishcakes and salt-baked fish highly recommended. !!!! Daily L&D. www.parkfora.com. Muallim Naci Cad. Cemil Topuzlu Parkı 154/A, Kuruçeşme. T: 0212 265 5063. Off map. PH PUB Gastropub. A wide variety of appetizer buffets, grills and desserts are served from 11:30am to 8:30pm in PH pub on the lobby floor. !!! Mon-Sat L& D. www.theplazahotel.com.tr. Barbaros Bulvarı 165, The Plaza Hotel İstanbul, Balmumcu, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 370 2020. A8. POSEIDON Fish and Seafood. Seafood at its best against a magnificent view of İstanbul. Specialties include stuffed calamari, baked as well as Greek-style grilled octopus, cold meats, a variety of Turkish and foreign wines and a special şöbiyet (cream-filled baklava) from Gaziantep. Booking required for evenings. !!!! Daily L&D. www.poseidonbebek.com. Küçük Bebek, Cevdet Paşa Cad. 58/1, Bebek. T: 0212 287 9531. Off map. Dining Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc.) refer to pages 62-63. GENERAL INFORMATION Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. Value Added Tax (VAT) is automatically included in the bill, but tips are generally not added. A 10% cash gratuity is common. PLEASE NOTE: ALL RESTAURANTS & BARS ARE NON-SMOKING. INDEX TO ABBREVIATIONS B: Open for breakfast L & D: Open lunch & dinner only. PRICES Prices per person for three courses and coffee, no alcohol. ! – TL 0-30 per person !! – TL 30-60 per person !!! – TL 60-90 per person !!!! – over TL 90 per person SET BALIK LOKANTASISeafood. One of the www.sudakebap.com. Suada Club/Galatasaray Adası, Kuruçeşme. T: 0212 265 1163. Off map. SUR BALIK ARNAVUTKÖY Fish and Seafood. Sur Balık is located in a simple 150-year-old seaside mansion, with walls sporting old İstanbul photographs. Sea bass marinated with basil, anglerfish ricado and profiteroles with tahini are just a few of the highly-recommended treats. !!! Daily L&D. www.surbalikarnavutkoy.com. Bebek Arnavutköy Cad. 52, Arnavutköy. T: 0212 257 2743-44. Off map. TAPS BEBEK International. Serving in a three- storey waterfront mansion in Bebek, this restaurant offers a menu of international dishes from burgers to meat courses, fresh seafood food, pastas and risottos. The fine dining is enhanced by the house beer freshly brewed in its own brewery. !! Daily L&D. www.tapsbebek.com. Cevdet Paşa Cad. 119, Bebek. T: 0212 263 8700. Off map. TUĞRA RESTAURANTTurkish. A favourite of gourmets, this venue serves classical Ottoman dishes accompanied by live Turkish classical music in an authentic atmosphere on the waterfront Booking required. !!!! Daily D. www.kempsinki-istanbul.com. Çırağan Cad. 84, Çırağan Palace Kempinski, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 258 3377. B8. VOGUE RESTAURANT & BAR International. Located on the top floor of BJK Plaza, this elegant restaurant offers 70 different sushi varieties. Enjoy white and red house wines as well as olive oils exclusively prepared for Vogue against a superb Bosphorus view. Reservations required. !!!! Daily L&D. www.istanbuldoors.com. Spor Cad. BJK Plaza A Blok 48, Akaretler. T: 0212 227 4404. B7. YENİKÖY İSKELE RESTAURANT Fish and Seafood. Located by the Yeniköy pier under centuries-old plane trees, this restaurant is well known for its fresh seasonal fish simply cooked, its own original mezes, salads, sliced liver and fish kavurma. Turkish classical music adds to the atmosphere; live music certain nights of the week. !!! Daily L&D. www.yenikoyiskele.com. Köybaşı Cad. İskele Sok. 7/A, Yeniköy. T: 0212 262 3549. Off map. ZUMA Japanese. Japanese dining traditions, alive and well in the heart of İstanbul. Exciting interior is an extra attraction to this restaurant overlooking the Bosphorus. Japanese and world cuisines available at sushi and grill bars. Booking required. !!!! Daily L&D. www.zumarestaurant.com. Salhane Sok. 7, Ortaköy. T: 0212 236 2296. A9. EMİNÖNÜ & SULTANAHMET A LA CARTE RESTAURANT Café & Bar. Meals surrounded by magnificent Bosphorus scenery and beautiful historical buildings. !!!! Daily B, L&D. www.legacyottomanhotel.com. Legacy Ottoman Hotel, Hobyar Mah. Hamidiye Cad. 64, Eminönü. T: 0212 527 6767. E4. ASİTANE RESTAURANT Ottoman. Specializing in Ottoman Court cuisine, this is an exciting venue with a menu based on the 1539 ‘Book of Feasts’. A perfect opportunity to try the best that Ottoman cuisine has to offer. The winter menu oldest seafood establishments on the Bosphorus waterfront, with fresh fish served in a friendly, intimate atmosphere. Many in-house mezes using seasonal fish and vegetable recently added to the menu. !!"Daily L&D. No credit cards. www.setbaliklokantasi.com. Haydar Aliyev Cad. 18, Tarabya. T: 0212 262 0411. Off map. SKY BAR International. A la carte restaurant on the top floor of the Plaza Hotel with one of the finest panoramic views of the city, featuring international cuisine and fine service. !!! Tue-Sun D. www.theplazahotel.com.tr. Barbaros Bulvarı 165, The Plaza Hotel İstanbul, Balmumcu, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 370 2020. A8. STARBOARD RESTAURANT International. Enjoy al fresco dining complemented with a spectacular setting along the Bosphorus. With elegant white awnings and an extensive outdoor bar, the restaurant draws local and foreign guests with its innovative Mediterranean menu highlighting fresh seafood dishes. !!!!"Daily B, L&D. Çırağan Cad. 46, Radisson Blu Bosphorus Hotel, Ortaköy. T: 0212 310 1500. B8. SWEET TEMPTATIONS Café. Have a wonderful breakfast of oven fresh croissants, Danish, baguettes and boreks, or stop by for lunch and enjoy the variety of sound wishes, salads. Later on, settle down with a good book, a fine cake or pastry and a cup of their always fresh-ground coffee. Lunch box service for early checkouts from nearby hotels. ! www.sweettemptations.com.tr. Çırağan Cad. Radısson Blu Bosphorus Hotel, A Blok 46, Ortaköy. T: 0212 259 6646. A9. SUDA KEBAPTurkish. Delightful traditional Gaziantep cuisine backed by an unparalleled view on this Bosphorus islet. Transportation by boat from Kuruçeşme. !!! Daily L&D. J U LY 2011 I W H E R E İ S TA N B U L 45 Dining offers specialties like chestnut soup, shrimp-stuffed calamari, hassa börek, kırma chicken kebab, sea bass biryan and saffron-scented zerde for dessert. !!!"Daily L&D. www.asitanerestaurant.com. Kariye Camii Sok. 6, Edirnekapı. T: 0212 635 7997. C2. BALIK NOKTASI Fish and Seafood. The perfect spot on the Golden Horn for a feast of fish and seafood, this restaurant under the Galata Bridge offers an enchanting view of the Golden Horn, with seagulls and ferries hailing the diners. !!! Daily B, L&D. 8am-12pm. www.baliknoktasi.com. Galata Bridge, EB 1, Sirkeci. T: 0212 526 6633. D4. BALIKÇI SABAHATTİN Fish and Seafood. Extensive fish menu and excellent service located in the historical area of Cankurtaran, near Sultanahmet. The skillfully prepared fish is especially good with rakı, and the mussel pilaf and courgette with yoghurt come highly recommended. Book in advance for dinner. !!!"Daily L&D. www.balikcisabahattin.com. Seyit Hasan Kuyu Sok. 1, Cankurtaran. T: 0212 458 1824. F5. BARBA GİRİTLİ Fish and Seafood. Enjoy a panoramic view stretching from the Galata Tower to Topkapı Palace while savouring fresh and delicious seafood courses. Specialties include Cretan-style octopus, seafood in tarragon sauce, and sardines in vine leaves. !! Daily L & D. www.giritlibalik.com. Abdülezzel Paşa Cad. 3, Cibali, Fatih. T: 0212 533 1866. D3. CAFE DU LEVANT French. Step back to 1930s Paris at this cafe on the Golden Horn waterfront. Its unique décor is complemented by a broad wine list as well as an extensive menu of meat, chicken and fish courses and desserts. !!"Tue-Sun L&D. www.cafedulevant.com. Rahmi Koç Müzesi, Kumbarhane Cad. 2, Sütlüce. T: 0212 369 6607. B2. CENOVA RESTAURANT Turkish. This venue operates in one of İstanbul’s oldest buildings, built in 1314 by the Genoese. Live Turkish classical music on weekends and various music genres on weekdays. Fine Turkish and Greek mezes and a choice of ala cart or fixed menu. !!! Daily L&D. www.cenovarestaurant.com. Bereketzade Mah. Kartçınar Sok. 6, Galata. T: 0212 244 1111. D4. DARÜZZİYAFE Turkish (Traditional). Superb Turkish cuisine, with a lengthy menu reflecting centuries of Turkish dining traditions. Located in the Süleymaniye complex and seating over 1000, Darüzziyafe is an ideal place to experience select Turkish dishes along with delicious sherbets and desserts. !!"Daily L&D. www.daruzziyafe.com.tr. Şifahane Cad. 6, Süleymaniye. T: 0212 511 8414. E3. FES CAFE Café. Nestled in the Grand Bazaar, Fes Café is the ideal spot for a coffee break. You don’t have to leave the authentic atmosphere of the bazaar, with an interior blending Ottoman and contemporary styles. !!"Mon-Sat 9am-7pm. www.fescafe.com. Halıcılar Cad. 62, Kapalıçarşı. T: 0212 528 1613. E4. HALAT RESTAURANT Mediterranean. Located inside the Rahmi M. Koç Museum, this restaurant boasts an eye-catching interior where sailboats are used for décor. The menu is based on Mediterranean cuisine with an extensive local and foreign wine list. Great place to rest after a visit to the museum. !!! Tue-Sun L&D. www.halatrestaurant.com. 46 W H E R E İ S TA N B U L I J U LY 2011 Rahmi M. Koç Museum, Kumbarhane Cad. 2, Hasköy, Sütlüce. T: 0212 369 6616. B2. HAMDİ ET LOKANTASI Turkish (Traditional). A classic İstanbul dining experience, this restaurant’s glass-covered terrace offers a panoramic view of the city. With more than 40 kebabs on the menu; plum kebab and poppy seed kebab are highly recommended. !!! Daily L&D. www.hamdirestorant.com.tr. Tahmis Cad. Kalçın Sok. 17, Eminönü. T: 0212 512 5424. D4. HAVUZLU LOKANTA Turkish (Traditional). Experience five centuries of history in this restaurant nestled in the Grand Bazaar, featuring exquisite Ottoman architecture. Specialties among its home-style dishes include mashed eggplant, roasted lamb and Abant-style kebab. !!"Mon-Sat L. www.havuzlurestaurant.com. Gani Çelebi Sok. 3, Kapalıçarşı, Eminönü. T: 0212 527 3346. E4. KARAKOL RESTAURANT Turkish (Traditional). Located in the courtyard of Topkapı Palace, Karakol serves Turkish delicacies in a peaceful and tranquil atmosphere. Specialties include main courses like lamb cutlets with vine leaves and steamed sea bass with mastic. Top off your meal with the heavenly mixed Ottoman and Turkish dessert plate. !!! Daily L&D. Topkapı Palace. www.karakolrestaurant.com. T: 0212 514 9494. E5. KARAKÖY LOKANTASI Turkish. Located across from the customs house, this restaurant looks like a French bistro from the outside, but the Ottoman style interior with its turquoise tiles and wrought iron railings gives the feel of a warm, welcoming tavern. Specialities include mezes like mashed broad beans and smoked octopus, plus skewered lamb and fish pastrami. !!! Kemankeş Cad. 37/A, Karaköy. T: 0212 292 4455. D5. KONYALI TOPKAPI SARAYI LOKANTASI Turkish (Traditional). Once home to the Ottoman Sultans, Topkapı Palace now offers its unparalleled Bosphorus view to diners. Enjoy the views and historical ambiance while savouring fine Turkish cuisine. Specialties include stuffed lamb, Hünkar beğendi, islim kebabı and a rich selection of desserts. !!! Wed-Mon L&D. www.konyalilokantasi.com. Topkapı Palace. T: 0212 513 9696. E5. KÖŞKEROĞLUTwo timeless Turkish classics, kebabs and baklava, under the same roof. Köşkeroğlu has been faithful to the art of Gaziantep cuisine since 1946. Don’t even think of leaving İstanbul without enjoying the authentic flavours of kebab, baklava and traditional Turkish desserts. Necatibey Cad. Eski Gümrük Sok. 6, Karaköy. T: 0212 249 6340. D5. LİMAN LOKANTASI Turkish (Traditional). The view stretching over Galata to the Prince’s Islands gives a true feeling of İstanbul dining. In addition to traditional Turkish dishes, the menu offers specials such as chicken with oyster and mushroom sauce, vegetable börek with milles feuilles pastry and a crispy fig dessert. !!! Daily L&D. www.capacapa.com. Rıhtım Cad. 52/3. Karaköy. T: 0212 292 3992. D5. MATBAH RESTAURANTOttoman. Offering authentic specialities from Ottoman Palace cuisine in an historical setting, Matbah in the Historical Peninsula is surrounded by iconic buildings like Topkapı Palace and Hagia Sophia. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, there’s also full bar, and live Turkish music every Friday and Saturday night. !!! Daily B&L&D. www.matbahrestaurant.com. Caferiye Sok. 6/1, Sultanahmet. T: 0212 514 6151. F4. OLIVE RESTAURANTTurkish (Traditional). Olive Restaurant greets Hagia Sophia and Topkapı Palace in its unparalleled Sultanahmet view accompanied by an exciting menu, including paper-baked sea bass and Sultan kebab. !!! Daily B, L&D. Yaşmak Sultan Hotel, Ebusuud Cad. 18, Sirkeci. T: 0212 528 1343. E5. PANDELİ Turkish (Traditional). An İstanbul classic located in the Egyptian Market, its walls are covered with glamorous İznik tiles. With its Turkish delicacies, Pandeli is an ideal stop during a visit to the old city and the markets. !! Daily L. www.pandeli.com.tr. Mısır Çarşısı 1, Eminönü. T: 0212 527 3909. E5. PICASSO RESTAURANT International. Ottoman and Spanish cuisines are well represented on Picasso’s a la carte menu and in the buffet. !!! Daily L&D. www.barcelo.com. Millet Cad. 186, Barceló Eresin Topkapı, Topkapı. T: 0212 631 1212. Off map. SAFA MEYHANE Turkish (Traditional). Sample 20 different mezes with rakı in a historic tavern over a century old, featuring Greek architecture and high ceilings. Albanian style fried liver, paçanga böreği and homemade stuffed green peppers are followed by warm starters such as calamari and shrimps, and main courses including both meat and fish courses. !! Mon-Sat L&D. www.safameyhanesi.com. İlyas Bey Cad. 121, Yedikule. T: 0212 585 5594. Off map. SEASONS International. Spacious antique-themed interior surrounded by glass. Serves Turkish specialties plus Mediterranean, Italian and international cuisines. !!!! Daily B, L&D, Sunday brunch. www.fourseasons.com. Tevfikhane Sok. 1, Four Seasons Sultanahmet Hotel, Sultanahmet. T: 0212 402 3150. E5. SULTAN RESTAURANT International. Elegant, wood-dominated interior reminiscent of palaces surrounded by glass walls. The talented kitchen team produces select flavours from Turkish and world cuisines. !!!! Daily L&D. www.grandcevahirhotel.com. Grand Cevahir Hotel, Darülaceze Cad. Okmeydanı, Şişli. T: 0212 314 4242. Off map. TARİHİ KARAKÖY BALIKÇISI Fish and Seafood. Nestled in a small and cosy space, this historical fish restaurant offers fresh fish every weekday between 12pm and 4pm. Fish is displayed at the entrance; select your fish and wait for it to be prepared by expert chefs. !!! Daily L&D. www.tarihikarakoybalikcisi.com. Tersane Cad. Kardeşim Sok. 45, Karaköy. T: 0212 251 1371. D4. ZEYREKHANETurkish. Near the Zeyrek mosque, originally built as a monastary, and entered through old wooden houses, this restaurant offers a breathtaking view of Süleymaniye Mosque, the Blue Mosque and other historic landmarks from its terrace. The Turkish cuisine is complemented by a warm and nostalgic interior filled with original paintings, imperial edicts, quilted turbans, calligraphy and original tiles, all originals. www.zeyrekhane.com. !!! Tue-Sun B, L&D Sinanağa Mah. İbadethane Arkası Sok. 10, Zeyrek, Fatih. T: 0212 532 2778. D3. Dining LEVENT & ETİLER & ULUS CIPRIANI International. This international restaurant chain, famous for its unique approach to world dining, opens its first Turkish branch, in İstanbul’s Edition Hotel. The interior is striking with its walnut and earth-toned interior and low tables, and the menu offers all the classic flavours of Harry’s Bar in Venice. !!! Daily L&D. www.cipriani.com. Levent Mah. Büyükdere Cad. 1, Levent. T: 0212 317 7787. Off map. ITSUMIJapanese. Sweet, sour, salty, spicy and herbs are the five basic flavours at Itsumi, serving Japanese dishes filled with natural flavours. A great combination of Japanese culture and Turkish hospitality. !!! Daily L&D. Mon-Fri 9:30am-1am, Sat-Sun 9:30am-1am. www.itsmejp.com. İş Towers, 2nd Tower G 43, 4. Levent. T: 0212 264 6448. Off map. FRATELLI LA BUFALA Italian. Known for its buffalo mozzarella, this restaurant is also famed for its Neapolitan-style pizzas. Taste the superb cheese on the pizzas themselves, and you can even order it in single 125- or 500-gram portions. Delicious! !!! Daily L&D. www.fratellilabufalaistanbul.com. Loft Binası, Büyükdere Cad. 201, Levent. T: 0212 325 5411. Off map. KONYALI KANYON Turkish (Traditional). Exclusive concept and ambiance, the fine menu and luxurious presentation on gold-plated service all add up to a memorable meal. Dishes are categorized by traditional Turkish cooking method. !! Daily L&D. www.konyalilokantasi.com. Büyükdere Cad. 185, Kanyon Shopping Centre, Levent. T: 0212 353 0450. Off map. MOE’SAmerican. In İstanbul Sapphire Çarşı, the well known American chain Moe’s is set to become a regular stop for people who like freshly- prepared food and generous portions. !!!"Daily L&D. www.moes.com.tr. Sapphire Çarşı, Büyükdere Cad. 4. Levent. T: 0212 268 8116. Off map. MIRROR Italian (Modern). This venue includes both a restaurant and bar in a minimalist interior. Predominantly Italian menu also offers delicacies from world cuisines. Chill-out cosy, groove, acid jazz and beach house music between 4pm-8pm and after dinner. !!!"Daily L&D. www.mirrorbistro.com. İş Towers 3rd Tower, Entrance, 1. Levent. T: 0212 283 6367. Off map. NUSRETSteakhouse. In keeping with Nusret’s decor, meats are brought on teak planks and served on white porcelain. The restaurant focuses on meat, salads and wine; meats are cooked to order. !!!"Daily L&D. Çamlık İhsan Aksoy Sok. 6, Etiler. T: 0212 265 3037. Off map. OBIKA Italian. Italian flavours meet Japanese minimalist décor at Obikà Kanyon, offering traditional Italian cookery with quality ingredients, including the finest Mozzarella di Bufala from the Campania region. Some of the dishes are prepared before your eyes at the traditional sushi bar and served in Japanese style like tiny, brilliant jewels. www.obika.com.tr. !!! Büyükdere Cad. 185, Kanyon Shopping Centre 1/F 167, Levent. T: 0212 353 5330. Shopping Centre Map (p.16) PAPERMOON Italian. This elegant venue serves unique Italian delicacies. Its spacious bar and café are open all day, and loved by İstanbul high society. Reservations recommended. !!!!"Daily L&D. 48 W H E R E İ S TA N B U L I J U LY 2011 www.papermoon.com.tr. Nispetiye Cad. Akmerkez Shopping Centre 224, Etiler. T: 0212 282 1616. Shopping Centre Map (p.16) PIOLA Italian. Opening its first branch in Turkey, international chain Piola is known as the ‘pizzeria to the stars’ with regulars in its US branches including Will Smith and Jennifer Lopez. Threequarters of its menu consists of pizzas, with fresh toppings including mozzarella, shrimp and porcini, and there’s also a decent selection of delicious antipasti. !!!"Daily L&D. www.pointhotel.com. Point Otel Barbaros, Esentepe, Yıldız Posta Cad. 29, Şişli. T: 0212 337 3000. A7. ROOF RESTAURANT International. The first Art Tech hotel in Turkey, Point Hotel Barbaros Roof restaurant with its excellent Bosphorus view offers an open buffet featuring the exquisite flavours of Turkish cuisine. Save room for the finest traditional Turkish desserts inc light milk puddings. !!! Daily B, L&D. www.pointhotel.com. Point Hotel Barbaros, Esentepe Yıldız Posta Cad. 29, Şişli. T: 0212 337 3000. A7. SIMPLE International. Located in Sapphire’s entrance, Simple offers a rich menu from the world cuisine. Chef Abdullah Taylan who has served in Nobu Milano and Armani Café presents a variety of delicious tastes that appeal to everyone’s preferences. Architectural design and decoration works done by Mehmet Yücebaşoğlu and Selin Özdeniz, Simple has a 300 seating capacity. !!! Daily 10am-2am. www.simplesapphire.com. www.facebook.com/simplerestaurant. İstanbul Sapphire, 1. Levent. T: 0212 268 8555. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). SUNSET GRILL&BAR Mediterranean. This well- known İstanbul venue offers a magnificient Bosphorus view accompanied by an exclusive wine list and Mediterranean cuisine. Bar opens in the evenings, offering an entertaining night with a DJ. Booking required. !!!!"Mon-Sat L&D, www.sunsetgrillbar.com. Adnan Saygun Cad. Yol Sok. 2, Ulus. T: 0212 287 0357-58. Off map. TİKE Turkish (Traditional). A leading kebab restaurant, specialties include mütevvel, hummus with pastrami and stuffed dried aubergines for starters, with authentic Tike kebab, aubergine kebab and chicken Tike as main courses. !!! Daily L&D. www.tike.com.tr. Hacı Adil Cad. Hanımeli Sok 6, 2. Levent. T: 0212 279 5070. Off map. TURKUAZ RESTAURANT International. Restaurant offering delightful international flavours. !!! Daily B, L&D. www.dedeman.com. Dedeman İstanbul, Yıldız Posta Cad. 50, Esentepe. T: 0212 337 4500. A7. ULUS 29 International. Flavours from around the world by foreign chefs who prepare sushi and Mediterranean dishes plus Turkish specialties such as kebab and pide. Dazzling panoramic view of Bosphorus. Booking required. !!!!"Mon-Fri L&D, Sat-Sun D. www.club29.com. Adnan Saygun Cad. Yol Sok. 71/1, Ulus. T: 0212 358 2929. Off map. VENGE Turkish (Modern). Popular restaurant with decent prices and kids’ menu. Wide variety of appetizers and meat dishes suitable for all tastes. !!! Daily L&D. Akasyalı Sok. 2, 1. Levent. T: 0212 264 0720. Off map. WAGAMAMAJapanese. Extensive menu offers distinctive Far Eastern flavours. Highly popular with noodle lovers, this restaurant offers a pleasant and entertaining dining ambiance. !!! Daily L&D. www.wagamama.com.tr. Büyükdere Cad. 185, Kanyon Shopping Centre, Levent. T: 0212 353 0474. Off map. YÜZEVLER KEBAPÇISI ETİLER Turkish. One of the best kebab restaurants in Turkey, this chain took its name from the city and street where it originated. An essential destination for those who crave the genuine flavours of Anatolia, especially Adana kebab. !!! Daily L&D. www.yuzevler.com.tr. Etiler Mah. Nispetiye Cad. 70, Etiler. T: 0212 287 0101. Off map. ATAKÖY & YEŞİLKÖY & FLORYA ASIAN FUSION RESTAURANT Asian (Modern). A fine alternative for diners featuring comfortable and modern design, delicious Asian fusion dishes and professional service. !!!! Daily D. www.sheratonistanbulatakoy.com.tr. Sahilyolu Cad. Ataköy. T: 0212 560 8100. Off map. BEYTİ Turkish (Traditional). Frequented by kings, prime ministers, celebrities and high society, this restaurant enjoys worldwide fame for its meat dishes. An indisputable master of meat cookery with a dish named after him, owner Beyti Güler handpicks the ingredients. Its meats grilled on a coal fire are divine. !!! Tue-Sun L&D. www.beyti.com. Orman Sok. 8, Florya. T: 0212 663 2991. Off map. COOKBOOK International. Restaurant serving unique delicacies. !!! Daily B, L&D. www.sheratonistanbulatakoy.com.tr. Sheraton İstanbul Ataköy Hotel, Sahilyolu, Ataköy. T: 0212 560 8100. Off map. ELEOS Aegean. Spacious décor and unique flavours from both shores of the Aegean Sea. In addition to classic flavours of İstanbul’s taverns, Eleos’ menu includes Greek and Armenian specialties as well as Aegean wild greens. !!!"Daily L & D. www.eleosrestaurant.com. Yeşilbahçe Sok. 9, Yeşilköy. T: 0212 663 3911. Off map. EARTH CAFE Café. With an easygoing, comfortable atmosphere, this all-day restaurant in the Forum İstanbul Shopping Centre offers delicious international cuisine. !!!"Forum İstanbul Shopping Centre, Kocatepe Mah. Paşa Cad. Zemin Katı, Buz Pisti Alanı, Bayrampaşa. T: 0212 640 9708. Shopping Centre Map (p.14). KAŞIBEYAZ Turkish (Traditional). Specialities on the menu include kebabs like Ali Nazik, pistachio and garlic kebab. An open buffet breakfast served on Sundays offers a unique Antep-style menu. !!!"Daily B, L&D. www.kasibeyaz.com.tr. Florya, Şenlikköy, Çatal Sok. 17. Off map. T: 0212 663 2890. Yeniköy, Köybaşı Cad. 10. T: 0212 468 1717. Off map. LA DELICATESSE RESTAURANT International. Looking for something different? Try La Delicatesse to take in the colours of the seaside and enjoy the enchanting moonlight with family and friends, and savour dishes prepared with care and love. !!! Daily L&D. www.cinarhotel.com.tr. Çınar Hotel Fener Mevkii, Yeşilköy. T: 0212 663 2900. Off map. MEZZANINE RESTAURANT International. This venue will turn your breakfasts, dinners and lunches into a feast with a rich menu prepared by Dining Where World Flavours Meet Delicatessen welcomes in the summer with brand-new flavours and fresh fruit pitchers. Look out also for their impressive seasonal cocktails, including sangria, satsuma lemonade vodka, strawberry margaritas, fresh fruit mojitos (we love the passion fruit and blackberry), plus the royal mojito with champagne. You’ll also find world-famous champagnes like Möet Chandon and Veuve Cliquot. Don’t ignore the cuisine – try its new dishes including whole lobster marinated in olive oil and sage, baked stuffed calamari, and light seasonal specialilties such as artichokes with fresh peas and broad beans (p. 50). its skilful and experienced kitchen crew. Decor dominated by beige and green. !!!"Daily B, L&D. www.wowhotelsistanbul.com. WOW İstanbul Hotels, İstanbul Dünya Ticaret Merkezi, Yeşilköy. T: 0212 468 5000. Off map. OLIVOS RESTAURANT International. Decorated in warm, brilliant colours, Olivos Restaurant’s award-winning culinary team offers Mediterranean and international cuisine in smart, casual and comfortable surroundings. !!!"Daily B, L&D. www.radissonblu.com. Radisson Blu Airport Hotel, E-5 Karayolu 20, Küçükçekmece. T: 0212 411 3838. Off map. YÜKSEL BALIK LOKANTASI Fish and Seafood. Seafood dishes prepared with quality and fresh ingredients. The main speciality is shrimp salad with tomatoes, onions, olive oil, lemon, feta cheese and hot pepper, and the salted bonito is very popular. !!! Daily L&D. www.yukselbalik.com. Liman Sok. 3, Yeşilköy. T: 0212 574 3434. Off map. İSTİNYE PARK BIG PLATE International. This artsy restaurant starts the day with breakfast accompained by the smell of freshly baked bread and pastries. Menu includes pizza salad and pastas as well as kids’ menu and many international specialities; be sure to try their homemade carpaccio, big plate tapas and Chocolate Dream. Latin music every Friday. !! Daily B, L&D. İstinye Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre, Hillside, İstinye. T: 0212 345 6288. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). GO MONGOAsian. Real Mongolian barbecue accompained by select Asian dishes including the finest of Thai, Indonesian, Vietnamese, Chinese and Indian cuisines. !!! Daily L&D. www.gomongo.com.tr. İstinye Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre, İstinye. T: 0212 345 5888. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). MASAInternational. Dishes include salmon sashimi, bresaola followed by grilled meat, poultry and fish courses, as well as pizza and pide from a wood oven. The chocolate souffle is well worth the calories. Frequented by celebrities. !!! Daily L&D. www.masainternational.com. İstinye Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre 486, İstinye. T: 0212 345 5323. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). MEZZALUNAItalian. This high-quality chain offers the best of Italian cuisine, serving carpaccio, calamari and shrimp linguini, thin-crust Italian pizzas from a wood oven and desserts. !!! Daily L&D. www.mezzaluna.com.tr. İstinye Bayırı Cad. İstinye Shopping Centre, İstinye. T: 0212 345 5500. Shopping Centre Map (p.16). NİŞANTAŞI BENTLEY RESTAURANT International. An authentic choice for Nişantaşı enthusiasts. Italian and French flavours in a single menu. !!! Daily B, L&D. www.bentley-hotel.com. Halaskargazi Cad. 75, Bentley Hotel İstanbul, Harbiye. T: 0212 291 7730. A6. BİBER International. A dynamic venue, Biber’s SPOTLIGHT funky interior features a glass cabinet full of vintage objects, a dark leather sofa, and an antique desk. Homely atmosphere suitable for dinner and drinks with jazz or lounge music in the background. The menu of mainly İstanbul and J U LY 2011 I W H E R E İ S TA N B U L 49 Dining soup, Casita also offers temptations like Bodrum’s famous çökertme kebab, garlicky mushroom casserole and kağıt bebek dessert. This restaurant is open 24 hours daily. !! Daily L&D. www.casita.com.tr. Teşvikiye Cad. Atiye Sok. 3, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 327 8293. A6. SPOTLIGHT CENTO PER CENTO Italian. With a concept based on everyday Italian food, starters are served in snack-sized portions so it’s easy to sample a wide range of dishes. Chef Maurizio Morelli’s homemade ravioli, fresh pastas and classical Neapolitan pizza by-the-meter are some of the highlights. !!!"Mon-Sat L&D. www.centopercento.com.tr. Abdi İpekçi Cad. Zati Apt. 36, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 232 6202. A6. CHOCOLATE Bistro & Bar. Offering an exquisite dining experience, this spot serves international cuisine, but predominantly Italian dishes adjusted to Turkish tastes. All ingredients are natural, organic and fresh, prepared with special herbs. !!! Daily B, L&D. www.chocolatecafe.com. Eytam Cad. 33, Maçka. T: 0212 343 2461. A6. CLOUD7 RESTAURANT, BAR & TERRACE International. Located on the top floor, this restaurant takes in a breath-taking Bosphorus view. With its new name and remodelled interior, Cloud 7 Restaurant, Bar & Terrace offers a rich selection of Turkish and world cuisines. !!! Daily B, L&D. www.hilton.com.tr. Hilton ParkSa, Maçka. T: 0212 258 5674. B7. DELICATESSEN International. Featuring dishes A Dessert To Dream About The Point Patisserie, located in the Plaza Hotel lobby, offers a vast selection of pastries and exquisite chocolates, as well as breakfast, lunch and dinner. Each month there is a different special; in July try the cassata made with candied fruit and caramel sauce – a perfect summer treat! Stop by for an evening drink with live harp music. Open daily from 7am-11pm. T: 0212 370 2020. Southern American cuisines includes steak to burgers, salads, tapas, filet mignon and chicken shish kebab. !!! Daily L&D. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 36, Zati Apt. Nişantaşı. T: 0212 231 4105. A6. BOĞAZİÇİ BORSATurkish (Modern). A classic in İstanbul dining, this restaurant’s updated menus capture the flavours of Turkish cuisine with a Western twist. The result is stunning. Paintings by famous artists exhibited in the entrance welcome guests into this elegant venue. !!! Daily L&D. www.borsa.com. Boğaziçi Borsa, Lütfi Kırdar International Conference & Exhibition Centre, Harbiye. T: 0212 232 4201. A6. İstinye Borsa, İstinye Bayırı Cad. İstinye Shopping Centre T: 0212 345 53 33. Off map. CAFE SOFA International. Located on the first floor of The Sofa Hotel, this stylish spot serves international breakfasts, lunches and dinners, 50 W H E R E İ S TA N B U L I J U LY 2011 presented in a delightful atmosphere. Starters such as seafood börek wrapped in baklava dough and mains including veal medallions in oyster mushroom sauce are heavenly. !!!"Daily B, L&D. www.thesofahotel.com. The Sofa Hotel, Teşvikiye Cad. 123, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 368 1818. A6. CAFÉ WIEN Café. European-style coffee and cakes made in house, offering a Viennese style café atmosphere. 26 pastries and 18 coffees and to choose from, including the famous Viennese blend. The “Eiskaffee” with ice cream is a summer favorite; other specialties include the Sachertorte and Apple Strudel, as well as the Wiener Bretzel. !!! Daily B, L&D. www.cafewien.com. Reasürans Çarşısı 62, Teşvikiye. T: 0212 233 7860. A6. CASITA Turkish. Very popular for its mantı, a Turkish dumpling served with yoghurt, and tripe that combine Turkish tastes, local ingredients and international delicacies, the extensive menu includes breakfast, starters, sandwiches, fresh ravioli, lasagne, meat and fish courses as well as an extensive wine list. !!! Daily B, L&D. www.delicatessenistanbul.com. Mim Kemal Öke Cad. 19/1, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 225 0604. A6. DEN CAFÉ & RESTAURANT International. With a menu featuring dishes from around the globe, its highly recommended breakfast includes vast arrays of cheeses, olives, jams and pancakes. Later in the day, be sure to try their mini burgers, filet mignon salad with teriyaki sauce, steaks and mastic-flavored rice pudding with pomegranate. !! Daily B, L&D. Mim Kemal Öke Cad. 12/1D, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 224 2470. A6. GAJA RESTAURANT International. The most exclusive flavours and select wines, a breathtaking view, and excellent service have gained this spot a well-deserved admiration among gourmets. An extensive menu featuring French, Italian and Turkish cuisines. !!!! Tue-Sun D. www.gaja.com.tr. Swissôtel The Bosphorus, İstanbul Bayıldım Cad. 2, Maçka, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 326 1100. B7. GRISSINI Italian. This restaurant features two gardens, one in the back for a calm ambiance and one in the front for those who prefer to enjoy the lively Nişantaşı street. An inseparable element of Italian restaurants, the brick wood oven lends its own special charm. Popular dishes include four cheese pizza, Grissini pizza, homemade tortellini and pistachio crème brûlée. !!!"Mon-Sat L&D. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 23/A Nişantaşı. T: 0212 343 1297-98. A6. HACIBEY KEBAPÇISITurkish (Traditional). Branch of one of Bursa’s famous kebab houses serving in İstanbul since 1993. Traditional delicacies including İskender kebab, döner, lentil soup, shepherd’s salad, and Kemalpaşa dessert with cheese and mastic. ! Daily L&D. Dining www.hacibeykebapcisi.com. Teşvikiye Cad. 8/B, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 231 7134. A6. HOUSE CAFE, THE Café. International and local flavours blend at this chain with branches throughout İstanbul. Care is taken to use fresh, natural and organic ingredients. Specials include goat cheese salad with lentils, rustic pizza, grilled salmon with fresh herbs and a house special cake with ice cream. Kids’ menu available as well. !! Daily B, L&D. www.thehousecafe.com.tr. The House Cafe Nişantaşı, Teşvikiye Cad. 146, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 327 1774. A6. HÜNKAR NİŞANTAŞITurkish (Traditional). Cosy, spacious, serving traditional Turkish dishes and desserts. Popular choices include wrapped liver, tandoori lamb stew and lamb casserole with yoghurt; for a truly Turkish dining experience try the lamb’s feet soup, hünkar beğendi and semolina halvah. !!"Daily L&D. Mim Kemal Öke Cad. 21, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 225 4665. A6. of İstanbul’s most popular spots. The menu offers classic dishes adapted for modern tastes, including French onion soup, duck’s liver, steak Tartare, and “Café de Paris” filet mignon. Among the wide selection of desserts are crème brulee, profiteroles and cheesecake. !!!"Daily B&L&D, Abdi İpekçi Cad. Bostan Sok. 23/1, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 343 0443. A6. NİŞANTAŞ MENUTurkish (Modern). This wholesome restaurant serves up Turkey’s much loved dishes with an original creativity and contemporary style. With a garden on the lower floor, this spot offers homestyle specialities such as oven-baked mantı (ravioli) with meat broth, mantı on the coals with vegetable sauce, and erişte, toasted hand-cut noodles with tulum cheese and grated walnuts. !!!"Daily L&D. Abdi İpekçi Cad. Bostan Sok. 13, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 259 5770. A6. QUICK CHINAAsian. Minimally designed modern and chic venue with 250 dishes from three different Asian cuisines. Also offering an open buffet, this spot promises to be a rising star in Asian dining. During Happy Hour, the Mongolian chicken and a glass of wine is only TL 22. !!!"Daily L&D. www.quickchina.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 5, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 219 7356. A6. RANCHERO Mexican. Presenting fine Mexican cuisine with authentic tableware and kitchen equipment shipped from Mexico, its extensive KÖŞEBAŞI Turkish (Traditional). This internationally-recognized chain restaurant offers meat dishes from the Adana and Tarsus region based on traditional recipes. The gavurdağı Toros, Abaganos fındık lahmacun, şaşlık kebab and semolina halvah are especially good. Playground available for the kids. !! Daily L&D. www.kosebasi.com. Bronz Sok. 5, Maçka, T: 0212 230 3868. A6. LİMONATA Café. On the uppermost floor of City’s Shopping Centre, Limonata is one of the most fashionable spots this winter with its terrace and sweeping İstanbul view. Gaze over the city as you enjoy a delicious lunch or dinner, or choose from an impressive selection of cocktails at the unique Limonata bar. !!!"Daily L&D. City’s Shopping Centre, Teşvikiye Cad. 162, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 373 2300. A6. MAMA Italian. Extensive menu with pizzas straight from a wood oven, homemade pastas and salads. Well established in Rumeli Hisarı, Mama now welcomes guests in its delightfully stylish Nişantaşı location. !!!"Daily B, L&D. Abdi İpekçi Cad. Harbiye Mah. 7/2, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 241 1152. A6. MAYBE SALOMANJE International. Try local delicacies like stuffed chard, Turkish dumplings, mücver, cızbız köfte, çentik kebabı and mosaic cake in this great spot for lunch, a romantic dinner or Sunday brunch. Its bar is also highly popular. !!! Daily L&D. www.salomanje.com.tr. Atiye Sok. 4/2, Teşvikiye. T: 0212 327 3577. A6. MIDPOINT International. Select varieties from international cuisines, extensive menu, attractive prices, warm architecture and unparalleled presentation. Among the many choices, the vegetable fettucini and thin taco salad, Cajun basket, Bosphorus kebab and Carribean dessert are particularly worth a try. !! Daily B, L&D. www.midpoint.com.tr. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 59, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 219 9401. A6. MIYAKOAsian. Award-winning restaurant offering three fine Asian dining experiences: sushi bar, Teppanyaki cuisine plus Tatami room. The Japanese garden adds a further Asian touch. Sake is served warm or cold to accompany the meal. !!!!"Tue-Sun 7pm-11pm. www.swissotel.com.tr. Bayıldım Cad. 2, Swissôtel The Bosphorus, Maçka. T: 0212 326 1100. B7. NİŞANTAŞI BRASSERIE Bistro. With décor by Zeynep Fadıllıoğlu, Nişantaşı Brasseri is one J U LY 2011 I W H E R E İ S TA N B U L 51 Dining in fine style. !!!"Mon-Sat D. Meşrutiyet Cad. 67, Tepebaşı, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 245 6070. C4. 8 İSTANBUL International. The terrace of 8, situated in the heart of the bustling Beyoğlu, coupled with its new dishes, fresh cocktails and acid jazz/chill out music, takes its guests to another world. !!! Mon-Sat D. www.8istanbul.com. Gazeteci Erol Dernek Sok. 1, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 249 8924. C5. 9 ECE AKSOY Contemporary. With a cosy, modern interior, the artsy starter platters are followed by salads and main courses including zesty meatballs, lamb with fennel and fish. Desserts include semolina pudding with rosehip sauce, and soufflé. !!"Daily L&D. Asmalımescit Oteller Sok. 9-B, Tepebaşı. T: 0212 245 7628-41. C5. AGATHA RESTAURANT International. The main restaurant of the recently-reopened Pera Palace Hotel, Agatha combines French, Italian and Turkish flavours – all on the route of Orient Express – and presents them in a stylish atmosphere. Very good wine list. !!! Daily B, L&D. Pera Palace Hotel, Meşrutiyet Cad. 52, Tepebaşı, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 377 4000. C4. AGORA RESTAURANT International. Famous for its open buffets, Agora offers the flavours of both Turkish and international cuisines, as well as a rich á la carte menu. The restaurant also has an open terrace overlooking the garden open during the summer. !!! Daily B, L&D. Taşkışla Cad. Grand Hyatt İstanbul, Harbiye. T: 0212 368 1234. B6. AL BUSHRA Lebanese. Nestled on the 9th flor of menu includes real tortillas and tortilla chips made fresh daily. !!"Daily L&D. www.ranchero.com.tr. Reasürans Çarşısı 53, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 219 8550. A6. PANCALDI Contemporary European. In keeping with Turkish hospitality and Ramada Worldwide’s superior standards of quality and service, Pancaldi Restaurant offers delicious selections from local and international cuisines. !!!"Daily B, L&D. www.ramadaplazaistanbul.com. Halaskargazi Cad. 63, Ramada Plaza, Osmanbey. T: 0212 315 4444. A6. PARK ŞAMDAN International. A classic venue in town, Park Şamdan offers an extensive menu of delicious Turkish and international delicacies. Wide variety of local and foreign liquors and cocktails. !!! Mon-Sat L&D. www.parksamdan.com. Mim Kemal Öke Cad. 18/1, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 225 0710. A6. PRIME, THESteak House. This venue specialises in prime cuts of meat prepared to perfection on a lava stone grill. With mission-style oak furniture and floor-to-ceiling custom wine displays, the restaurant caters to refined tastes in a contemporary setting. Its open kitchen lets the guests watch the chefs at work. !!!! Mon-Sat L&D. istanbul.park.hyatt.com. Teşvikiye Cad. Bronz Sok. 4, Park Hyatt İstanbul Maçka Palas, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 315 1234. A6. VA PIANO Italian. International franchise and major destination for lovers of traditional Italian cooking. Its interior combines natural stone, marble and wood, complemented by rosemary, basil and mint. Pastas, sauces, pizzas and salads are all prepared 52 W H E R E İ S TA N B U L I J U LY 2011 fresh right before the guests’ eyes. !! Daily B&L&D. www.vapiano.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 61/A, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 240 7219. A6. ZANZIBAR CAFE RESTAURANT Café. This place has rapidly become an İstanbul dining classic with its vast selection, friendly staff and quality service. Homemade pastas, meat dishes, salads, delicious pizzas and desserts. !!! Daily L&D. www.cafezanzibar.com.tr. Teşvikiye Cad. Reasürans Çarşısı 60, Teşvikiye. T: 0212 233 8046. A6. CİHANGİR, TAKSİM, BEYOĞLU & ASMALIMESCİT 360 İSTANBUL RESTAURANT&BAR International. Commanding a full panoramic view of İstanbul including Hagia Sophia and the Sea of Marmara. DJ and live performances combine with great cuisine, and contemporary interior at the top of a 19th- century building. Try the Zen soup for starters, choose from mains like filet mignon with chili and bitter chocolate, or lamb confite, and top it off with the “death by chocolate” dessert. !!!! Daily L&D. www.360istanbul.com. İstiklal Cad. Mısır Apt. 163, K:8, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 251 1042. C5. 67 RESTAURANT & BARInternational. Bringing together refined international cuisines and Turkish specialities, 67’s menu has something to appeal to every taste and a welcoming atmosphere. Monkfish with apples, lamb fillet and blueberry crumble are highly recommended. The long bar and comfortable nook offers the perfect place for a drink before dinner, and continues as a club Hilton İstanbul. Al Bushra promises a delightful and unforgettable dining experience featuring authentic Lebanese dishes by expert chefs, select wines and a brathtaking Bosphorus view. !!!"Daily L&D. www.hilton.com.tr. Hilton İstanbul, Cumhuriyet Cad. Harbiye. T: 0212 343 8081. B6. A’PERA International. Antiqued parquet floors, old overstuffed armchairs and photos of İstanbul provide the backdrop for this international-style restaurant. Highlights on the menu include Aegean-style pizza, New York steak, and threecheese risotto. Breakfast served any hour of the day. Daily B, L & D. Nergis Sok. 8/1, Asmalımescit. T: 0212 244 4508. C5. ASMALIMESCİT BALIKÇISI Fish and Seafood. Genoese style stone walls decorated with paintings depicting the sea and candlelit evenings make this a perfect venue for a tranquil dinner. Extensive wine list. The aubergine salad, grilled calamari and shrimp in butter, all cooked over charcoal, are exceptional. !!"Mon-Fri L&D, Sat&Sun D. www.asmalimescitbalikcisi.com. Asmalımescit, Sofyalı Sok. 5/A, Tünel, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 251 3939. C5. AUF International. Rustic style, the freshest seasonal vegetables and genuine homemade flavour make Auf a memorable spot. Dinner here is only the beginning; continue into the night with entertainment and dance at weekends. !!! Mon-Sun D, www.nupera.com.tr. Meşrutiyet Cad. 67, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 245 6070. C4. AYAZPAŞA RUSSIAN RESTAURANT Russian. One of the oldest Russian restaurants in Beyoğlu, its menu also features Austrian and Hungarian dishes. The must-try dishes include the stuffed grape leaves, ravioli and Russian-style duck with orange. !!! Daily L&D. www.ayazpasaruslokantasi.com. İnönü Cad. 59/A, Gümüşsuyu. T: 0212 243 4892. B6. Dining BAJA Mexican. Spicy Tex-Mex dishes dominate the menu at this lively, brightly-decorated restaurant. Choose from plump burritos and nachos with home-made salsa and guacamole, or go for the hearty bacon cheddar burgers and steaks. If it’s all a little too spicy, wash it down with a cooling margarita or mojito! !! Daily B&L&D. Ağahamam Sok. 29, Çukurcuma. T: 0212 252 3428. C5. SPOTLIGHT CEZAYİR RESTAURANTTurkish (Modern). Located inside an old schoolhouse, this restaurant, café lounge and bar has a menu of traditional Turkish delicacies with a contemporary, creative twist by prominent Turkish chef Fatih Kaya. The heated winter garden is a huge bonus. Be sure to try the bonito pilaki, the lamb filet and their special kadayıf and muhallebi dessert. !! Daily B, L&D. www.cezayir-istanbul.com. Hayriye Cad. 12, Galatasaray. T: 0212 245 9980. C5. ÇİNTEMANİ RESTAURANTTurkish. Named after one of the most important motifs in traditional Ottoman art, this venue is open all day. Menu inspired by the most distinguished dishes of the Mediterranean and Ottoman Court cuisines. !!!!"Daily B, L&D. www.ritzcarlton.com. The Ritz-Carlton, İstanbul, Elmadağ, Şişli. T: 0212 334 4188. Off map. ÇOKÇOK THAI RESTAURANT & BARThai. Unique dishes served on low tables and sofas gives a great opportunity to taste the flavours of Thailand in a relaxed setting. !!! Tues-Sun L&D. www.cokcok.com.tr. Meşrutiyet Cad. 51, Tepebaşı. T: 0212 292 6496. C4. DAİ PERA Turkish (Modern). Blending İstanbul’s Exquisite Summer Dining Over The Bosphorus A bistro-café that’s risen to the top of the İstanbul and Bebek social scenes, Mangerie offers an extensive menu, a terrace with stunning views of the Bosphorus over Bebek Bay and excellent service. This stylish spot offers a unique experience whatever the hour, from simple lunches to full dinners and a great selection of cocktails, wines and liquors. New dishes this month include moules marinière with basil, celery, and parsley; king crab salad bruschetta; salad with grilled baby calamari sautéed in white wine; and organic oven-baked chicken stuffed with rice. Mangerie is also the perfect spot to unwind in the evening with a drink; try their classics and seasonal favorites including orange wine, melon vodka punch and lemonade vodka by the pitcher, plus wine pitchers including chilled Malbec or Emir Sultaniye with peach slices (p. 44). vast history of Balkan, Rumelian, Albanian, Jewish and Armenian elements with a modern vision, the venue offers traditional İstanbul flavours including white bean stew with meat, stuffed chard, lamb tandoori with puréed eggplant, Albanian-style liver, baked mantı and quince dessert. !!"Mon-Thu 9am-2am. Fri&Sat 9am-4am. Sun 10am-2am. Yeni Çarşı Cad. 54, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 252 8099. C5. DOĞA BALIK Fish and Seafood. A favourite of fish lovers, with richly-cooked mains, the selection of meze (appetizers) is stunning, with an abundance of fresh ingredients and wild herbs. Lovely location in Cihangir, and good service. !!!! Daily L&D. www.dogabalik.com.tr. Akarsu Yokuşu Cad. 36, Cihangir. T: 0212 243 3656. C6. DRAGON RESTAURANT Chinese. Delicious dishes by Hong Kong chefs served in a spacious interior decorated in classical Chinese style. Specialties include crispy duck and stir-fried dishes. !!!!" Daily L&D. www.hilton.com.tr. Hilton İstanbul, Cumhuriyet Cad. Harbiye. T: 0 212 231 6200. B6. FACES International. An intimate and warm atmosphere matches the special flavours here, with a daily-changing surprise appetizer plate. Specialties include zucchini carpaccio and steak brown. Nostalgic music takes guests back to the 1980s. !!"Mon-Sat L & D. Asmalımescit Mah. Sofyalı Sok. 16, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 293 1388. C5. HACI ABDULLAH LOKANTASITurkish (Traditional). A long-established restaurant with a 121-year history, ensuring continuity of Ottoman culinary tradition, serves specialities including lamb-based meat dishes as well as soups and pilafs. !! Daily L&D. www.haciabdullah.com.tr. Atıf Yılmaz Cad. 9, Taksim. T: 0212 293 8561. C5. J U LY 2011 I W H E R E İ S TA N B U L 53 Dining HACIBABATurkish (Traditional). Located in the centre of Taksim, across from the French Cultural Centre and backed by the Aya Triada Orthodox church, this is a popular restaurant with a nostalgic interior frozen in time. Traditional dishes of Ottoman cuisine meticulously and properly prepared and served. !! Daily L&D. www.hacibabarest.com. İstiklal Cad. 39, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 244 1886. C5. HARDAL Café & Bistro. A comfortable and colourful venue designed around the concept of “Eat, Play, Drink”, this funky eaterie is dominated by orange and yellow décor with graffiti on its walls. Specialties include hot wings, steak fajitas, and sirloin with café de Paris sauce. Its eclectic array of cocktails and warm atmosphere contributes to its popularity. !! Mon-Thu 11:30am-2pm. Fri & Sat 11:30am-4pm. www.hardal.com.tr. Minare Sok. 12, Asmalımescit. T: 0212 243 8360-61. C5. HIDE OUT İSTANBUL AUTHENTIC KEBAB & GRILLHOUSE, THE Turkish (Modern). Authentic open-flame Turkish kebabs and grills accompanied by fresh spices, herbs, salads and appetizers. A dining experience featuring the best Turkish music and hospitality. !!! Daily L&D. www.hideoutistanbul.com. Eresin Taxim Premier Hotel, Şehit Muhtar Cad. 47, Taksim. T: 0212 361 5903. B5. INDIGO PUB Italian. Genuine Italian cuisine includes crispy pizzas fresh from the oven and regional flavoursome pastas. A delightful dining opportunity with contemporary music ranging from indie rock to jazz in the background. !! Daily B, L&D. www.indigo-pub.com. Tomtom Mah. İstiklal Cad. Acara Sok. 5/A, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 293 1174. C5. KALAMATA RUMELİ BALIKÇISI Balkan. Serving specialities from all corners of the Balkans, it’s hard to choose between all the wonderful dishes. There’s a great selection of Kalamata’s smoked and grilled meats, Rumeli böreks (filled pastries) and külbastı (tender lamb cutlets). !!"Asmalımescit Sok. 55, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 249 5970-71. Mon-Sat 11pm-1am. Fri & Sat 11pm-2:30am. C5. KITCHENETTE International. A quality chain with locations throughout İstanbul, Kitchenette boasts a broad array of dishes including breakfast, starters, sandwiches, salads, pastas, meat, fish-seafood, fresh bread, cakes, and exclusively produced house wines, olives and olive oils. !!! Daily B, L&D. www.kitchenette.com. tr. Kitchenette Taksim, The Marmara Taksim, Gümüşsuyu Mah. Takı Zafer Cad. 3, Taksim. T: 0212 292 6862. B6. Kitchenette Bebek, Cevdet Paşa Cad. İpek Sok. 1, Bebek. T: 0212 287 1161. Off map. Kitchenette Astoria, Büyükdere Cad. 127, Astoria Shopping Centre, Esentepe. T: 0212 215 2282. Off map. LA BRISE French Brasserie. A typical brasserie complete with French music and white tablecloths, this spot features the best of French cuisine. Also boasting an extensive liquor menu, it serves in a stylish interior and creative atmosphere. !!! Mon-Sat L&D. Asmalımescit Cad.28, Asmalımescit. T: 0212 244 4846. C4. LA MOUETTE Contemporary. Situated on the terrace of the Tomtom Suites with its completely renewed décor, this spot offers regional flavours inspired by contemporary cuisine. The winter garden has a breathtaking view of the Bosphorus 54 W H E R E İ S TA N B U L I J U LY 2011 and the Old City. !!!"Daily D. Tomtom Suites, Boğazkesen Cad. Tomtom Kaptan Sok.18, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 292 4949. C5. LEBİ DERYA RICHMOND International. A pleasant surprise on bustling İstiklal Caddesi, this is an unexpected temple of delights with a menu including examples from world cuisines. Make it a point to try their mastic-infused muhallebi dessert and the special Derya cocktail. Minimalist décor, attentive service and a glorious panoramic view of the Bosphorus. !!! Daily L&D. www.lebiderya.com. İstiklal Cad. 227, Richmond Hotel, Beyoğlu, Taksim. T: 0212 243 4376. C5. LEBLON Contemporary. Modern interior with brick walls, lamps dangling from the ceiling, light walls and polished wood. On offer are dozens of cheese, bread and delicatessen meats, and custom-made sandwiches. Appetizers, burgers and sandwiches, pastas, salads and main courses. !!"Daily L&D. www.11leblon.com. General Yazgan Sok. Tünel Geçidi İş Hanı 3/A, Asmalımescit, Tünel, Taksim. T: 0212 252 8636. C5. MIKLA Mediterranean. Situated in the historic area of Pera, this spot provides a modern İstanbul experience as well with its visionary, refined food and beverage concept. Mikla’s predominantly fish and lamb selections show the nuances of Mediterranean cuisine. Breathtaking view, bar and cocktails available. !!!! Mon-Sat D. www.istanbulyi.com. The Marmara Pera, Meşrutiyet Cad. 15, Taksim. T: 0212 293 5656. C4. MOLLY’S CAFE Located in Galata, this homely little cafe owned by a Canadian woman with many years in İstanbul will make you feel right at home. Main dishes, an always-changing variety of desserts, and good coffee. The vegetarian lasagne alone is worth the trip. Acoustic music on weekends for a negligible fee. Camekan Sok. 1, Galata. !" www.mollyscafeistanbul.wordpress.com. Camekan Sok. 7, Galata, Beyoğlu. T: 212 245 1696. C5. MÜNFERİT Turkish (Modern). This chic, modern tavern-style restaurant is right at the entrance of the Galata Residence, with an interior designed by Seyhan Özdemir and Sedef Çağlar of Autoban. The menu offers a combination of traditional and modern flavours, including marinated sea bass, hot grilled shrimp on humus, black couscous with mussels, poached sea bass with clams, and shredded cheek of beef with orzo. The dessert menu includes a unique sage ice cream. !!!"Mon-Sat D. Yeni Çarşı Cad. 19, Taksim. T: 0212 252 5067. C5. OTTO International. Highly popular chain combining a restaurant, café and bar. Menu includes soups, homemade noodles, and its very popular pizzas baked in a wood oven. Otto Tünel, Frequented particularly by art and advertising circles. !! Mon-Sat L&D. Asmalımescit Mah. Şehbender Sok. 5/1, Tünel, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 292 7015. C4. Otto Santral, Extraordinary interior and furniture. Situated within the Bilgi University campus. !! Daily L&D. Santral İstanbul, Kazım Karabekir Cad. 1, Eyüp. T: 0212 427 1889. Off map. Otto Sofyalı, Good food, good music is its motto. !! Mon-Sat L&D. www.ottoistanbul.com. Asmalımescit Mah. Sofyalı Sok. 22/A, Tünel. T: 0212 252 6588. C5. PANORAMA RESTAURANTTurkish (Modern). Located on the roof of The Marmara Taksim, this venue offers special Turkish and international dishes, including cold appetizers, a la carte Turkish dishes, seafood and desserts over a spectacular Bosphorus view. !!! Mon-Sat D. www.themarmarahotels.com. The Marmara Taksim, Taksim. T: 0212 251 4696. B6. PUCCI + PLUS International. One of the most elegant restaurants in İstanbul, Pucci + Plus offers exquisite international flavours in an interior dominated by tones of vanilla, ginger and brown against a delightful Bosphorus setting. Sliced filet with Cafe de Paris sauce, Ayazpaşa kebab and cup pucci with panna cotta rate high on the list of delights. !!! Mon-Sat L&D, Sun D. www.pucciistanbul.com. İnönü Cad. 22, Gümüşsuyu. T: 0212 293 6732. B6. REFİK RESTAURANTTurkish. One of the best taverns in town for 65 years, this spot is an İstanbul classic with its congenial atmosphere. Pastırma in paper, Albanian style fried diced liver, and lamb roulade are just a few of its delightful specialities. !!! Mon-Sat D. www.refikrestaurant.com. Asmalımescit Cad. Sofyalı Sok. 10, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 243 2834. C4. SAFRANTurkish (Traditional). Multi-award winning venue with a magnificent Bosphorus view matched by a Turkish and Ottoman-themed menu and interior. Live classical Turkish music every Wed and Fri. !!!"Daily D. www.intercontinental.com.tr. Asker Ocağı Cad. 1, Ceylan Intercontinental İstanbul, Taksim. T: 0212 368 4444. B6. SPAZIO Italian. Ideal venue to enjoy Italian cuisine and atmosphere, its main attraction is the cooking stall where a pastry chef bakes fresh pastries and authentic homemade bread in a wood oven. w!!!! Daily L&D. istanbul.grand.hyatt.com. Taşkışla Cad. Grand Hyatt İstanbul, Harbiye. T: 0212 368 1234. B6. SPOIL Mediterranean. Boasting an impressive Mediterranean menu, style is also paramount, with a minimalist interior, striking marble tables and a long bar. Menu highlights include cannelloni with charcoal-roasted aubergine, couscous salad with walnuts and pomegranate sauce, and bergamot infused crème brulée. !! Mon-Sat L&D. www.spoil.com.tr. Meşrutiyet Cad. 84, Şişhane. T: 0212 251 2696. C4. THE BRASSERIEInternational. The open buffet here has something to appeal to every taste, inviting guests to a carnival of flavours in a modern, sophisticated atmosphere. Also offering a wide à la carte menu, this exclusive restaurant is a perfect spot for a drink from their extensive selection of cocktails. !!!! Daily B&L&D. Ceylan Intercontinental Istanbul, Asker Ocağı Cad.1, Taksim. T: 0212 368 4444. B6. THE BRASSERIE International. International and local flavours meet at this chain with branches throughout İstanbul. The venue makes a point of using fresh natural and organic ingredients. !!! Daily B, L&D. www.eliteworldhotel.com.tr. Şehit Muhtar Cad. 42, Elite World İstanbul Hotel, Taksim. T: 0212 313 8383. B5. TOKYO RESTAURANT Japanese. Serving traditional Japanese cuisine in an authentic atmosphere, Tokyo stands out as much for its architectural details as its fine food. !!!"Daily L&D. www.tokyorestaurant.com. İstiklal Cad. Meşelik Sok. 24, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 293 5858. C5. Dining TOPAZ Mediterranean. Chic restaurant with an SPOTLIGHT elegant interior overlooking the Bosphorus, offering traditional and modern Turkish/ Mediterranean cuisine. A real wine cellar on the lower floor includes top wine brands from around the world. The traditional Ottoman menu includes yuvarlama soup and chard stuffed with meat and bulgur; the modern menu features roasted cheek of beef, celeriac puree, crème brulée with foie gras and sweet marsala sauce and Zonguldak Eğreli style grilled mullet salad. !!!"Daily L&D. www.topazistanbul.com. İnönü Cad. Devres Han 50, Gümüşsuyu. T: 0212 249 1001. B6. UP LOUNGE International. At Up Lounge, choose from a vast variety of tempting dishes as you take in the amazing view of the Golden Horn and fall in love with the beauty of İstanbul. If you like, spice up your night with a drink or one of their finely presented cocktails, and stay a little later for the live DJ show for some extra excitement. Mon-Fri 5pm-2am. Minare Sokak No:12, Asmalımescit, Beyoğlu. T: 0 212 249 9282. C4. WHITE MILL Café. On one of Cihangir’s oldest streets, this spot boasts an attractive ground floor, a simple but classy café-bar area upstairs much frequented by Turkish celebrities, and a second floor leading to a homey garden under the shade of laurel trees. An ideal spot to try Mediterranean dishes made with natural ingredients. !!"Daily L&D. www.whitemillcafe.com. Susam Sok. 13, Cihangir. T: 0212 292 2895-96. C6. X RESTAURANT Mediterranean. New venue located on the 6th floor of the İstanbul Foundation for Culture and Arts, with wood tables and stylish black seating. Mainly Mediterranean menu offers risottos, pastas, pizzas and desserts plus Turkish dishes such as tandır-roasted lamb. !!! Daily L&D. www. xrestaurantbar.com. Sadi Konuralp Cad. 5, Şişhane. T: 0212 244 7101. C5. YUTAKAJapanese. One of İstanbul’s finest Japanese restaurants, with a menu prepared by prominent Japanese chefs true to their own traditions. The sushi is delicious. Booking required. !!!"Daily L&D. istanbul.grand.hyatt.com. Taşkışla Cad. 25, Grand Hyatt İstanbul, Taksim. T: 0212 231 1306. B6. Asian Side BOSPHORUS COASTLINE A’JIA RESTAURANT Mediterranean. With its unique Try Something Thai! The restaurant that introduced İstanbul to Thai cuisine, Çok Çok’s architecture and authentic décor creates the magical atmosphere of Asia. Boasting a wide selection of delicious dishes, the service is fantastic, and a lounge bar with Chillout and World Music completes a great evening out (p. 53). fusion of contemporary interior design and 18thcentury architecture in a spectacular Bosphorusfront location, this restaurant has a reputation for quality service. !!!!"Daily B, L&D. www.ajiahotel.com. Çubuklu Cad. 27, A’jia Hotel, Ahmet Rasim Paşa Yalısı, Kanlıca. T: 0216 413 9353. Off map. COMPASS ROOF RESTAURANT&BAR International. Located in the Titanic Hotel in Kartal, this spot offers many special flavours ranging from seafood to select Far Eastern dishes. Savour the variety of cocktails while enjoying live music in the elegant and charming modern ambiance. !!! Daily 6pm-2am. Barbaros Hayrettin Paşa Cad. 43, Titanic Business Hotel, Kartal. T: 0216 453 5050. Off map. J U LY 2011 I W H E R E İ S TA N B U L 55 Dining ÇENGELKÖY İSKELE RESTAURANT Fish and Seafood. Best fish restaurant on the Asian side, both for the quality of its fish and its Bosphorus view. Established as a Greek coffeehouse in the early 1800s, it became a Greek tavern before assuming its current form in 1950. Specialties include grilled calamari in soy sauce, shrimp in vine leaves, turbot, sea bream, haddock and gurnard. !!!"Daily L&D. www.cengelkoyiskelerestaurant.com. Vapur İskelesi Yanı 10, Çengelköy. T: 0216 321 5506. Off map. ÇENGELKÖY VİLLA BOSPHORUS Fish and Seafood. Located in historical Çengelköy on the shores of the Bosphorus, Çengelköy Villa offers a feast of fresh fish, hors d’oeuvres and cold appetizers. Menu includes a wide variety of grilled and panfried fish as well as meat dishes. !!! Daily B, L&D. www.villabosphorus.com. Albay Hüsamettin Ertürk Sok. 13, Çengelköy. T: 0216 422 8080. Off map. DEL MARE Fish and Seafood & Italian. Excellent location on the Bosphorus with a delightful view, especially inviting at sunset. Extensive Italian and Greek menu: try specialities including mussel ravioli, paella, and fish on mashed eggplant. Also accessible by boat from Kuruçeşme on the European side. !!!! Daily L&D. www.del-mare.com. Kuleli Cad. 53/4, Çengelköy. T: 0216 422 5762. Off map. KANAAT LOKANTASI Turkish (Traditional). An Üsküdar landmark with a magical view of the Bosphorus and the Maiden’s Tower, Kanaat offers a stunning menu of 100-120 dishes prepared daily including meat dishes, olive oil dishes, desserts, ice creams and yoghurt. A very popular attraction for tourists who want to experience Ottoman-Turkish cuisine. No alcohol. !!"Daily L&D. www.kanaatlokantasi.com.tr. Selmanipak Cad. 9, Üsküdar. T: 0216 341 5444. D8. KANDİLLİ BORSA Turkish (Traditional). Excellent ambiance in the garden of the historical Adile Sultan Palace on a hilltop overlooking a dazzling Bosphorus view. Top Ottoman palace dishes and traditional Turkish cuisine, the menu also includes surprising blends of Mediterranean, Turkish and Far Eastern cuisines. !!!"Daily L&D. www.borsarestaurant.com. Kandilli Mah. Vaniköy Cad. 12, Vaniköy, Üsküdar. T: 0216 460 0304. Off map. KIZ KULESİ International. Located in the middle of the Bosphorus, with superb 360-degree view, Maiden’s Tower serves as a coffee house during the day and restaurant in the evenings, with tasty international cuisines. Live music by local and international musicians after 10pm. Accessible by boat service departing from Salacak on the hour. Brunch on Saturday and Sunday. !!!"Daily L&D. www.kizkulesi.com.tr. Salacak Mevkii, Üsküdar. T: 0216 342 4747. D7. LACİVERT Mediterranean. Exquisite Mediterranean flavours combined with a most romantic Bosphorus view. The restaurant delights its guests with seasonally changing menus and excellent seafood. Anything that comes out of the sea, from calamari to octopus, mussels and shrimps as well a vast selection of fish, is transformed into a delight to savour. Brunch on Sundays. !!!! Daily L&D. www.lacivertrestaurant.com. Körfez Cad. 57/A, Anadolu Hisarı, Beykoz. T: 0216 413 4224. Off map. LEONARDO European. This restaurant is located in the adorable rural Polish village of Polonezköy. 56 W H E R E İ S TA N B U L I J U LY 2011 Surrounded by greenery, it operates in a 110-year old Polish house and its garden. Unique Polish, Austrian and French dishes. A must-do if going out of town is an option. !!"Daily L&D. Köyiçi Sok. 32, Polonezköy. T: 0216 432 3082. Off map. MABEYİN Turkish (Traditional). Located in the historical Mabeyinci Manor. Enjoy traditional Turkish cuisine in an exquisite setting. Ideal choice for those who want to combine history with the distinct flavours of southeastern Turkish cuisine in a quiet, peaceful atmosphere. Baklava and other special desserts complete the experience. !!! Daily L&D. www.mabeyin.com. Eski Kısıklı Cad. 129, Kısıklı. T: 0216 422 5580. Off map. BAĞDAT STREET & COASTLINE & ATAŞEHIR CERCİS MURAT KONAĞITurkish (Traditional). Finest examples of traditional Mardin cuisine in a mystical setting of impressive stonework embellished with 19th century motifs. Mardin cuisine features meat and bulgur, herbs and vegetables including stuffled vine leaves with garlic cooked with ribs. !!! Daily L&D. www.cercismurat.com. Yazmacı Tahir Sok. 22, Suadiye. T: 0216 373 1193. Off map. ÇAPARİ RESTAURANT Fish and Seafood. A blissful atmosphere with a maritime-themed décor and an exceptional sea view complementing flawless service and fine food. Specialties include grilled calamari with thyme, and marinated sea bass. !!! Daily L&D. www.caparirestaurant.com. Yeni Sahilyolu, Turgut Özal Bulvarı 104, Küçükyalı. T: 0216 489 5454. Off map. ÇATANA Fish and Seafood. Offers a rich menu and unusual flavours. Known for its fresh fish and seafood. Menu includes cold appetizers, sea bass with basil, marinated sea bass, fish-stuffed chard, sesame shrimp, fish with carrot sauce and boiled Aegean wild greens. The ginger shrimp, fried angler, fishcakes, spicy seafood varieties and shrimp casserole are very popular. !!!"Daily L&D. www.catanabaliksuadiye.com. Sahil Yolu, Yazmacı Tahir Sok. 40, Bostancı. T: 0216 416 9633. Off map. ÇİYA SOFRASI Turkish (Traditional). Delicious dishes from a vast area ranging from Mesopotamia to İstanbul, the Balkans and the Caucasus. Popular dishes include şiş, börek, cherry kebab, eggplant dizmeç, poppy seed kebab and creamy fig teleme. No alcohol served. !!"Daily L&D. www.ciya.com.tr. Cafer Paşa Mah. Güneşlibahçe Sok. 43, Kadıköy. T: 0216 330 3190. Off map. DEVELİ Turkish (Traditional). Located on legendary Kalamış Bay, known for its natural beauty, Develi offers a delightful atmosphere and stylish decor. Fine Gaziantep and Turkish specialties include Ali Nazik kebab, küşneme, maş piyazı, muhammara, and Antep style stuffed dried eggplants. !!! Daily L&D. www.develikebap.com. Münir Nurettin Selçuk Cad. Kalamış Marina, Kadıköy. T: 0216 418 9400. Off map. ERENKÖY BRASSERIE International. Brisk yet genial service and a menu offering Turkish and world cuisines. One of the foremost pubs on Bağdat Street, this spot offers a delightful atmosphere and superior quality. !!"Daily B, L&D. www.divan.com.tr. Bağdat Cad. Kantarcı Durağı 333/A, Erenköy. T: 0216 386 5236. Off map. GÜNAYDIN Turkish (Traditional). One of the most popular meat restaurants on the Asian side features southeastern Turkish cuisine, with a menu offering a wide variety of kebabs. The meat is from Tekirdağ, and the other ingredients from Southeast Turkey. A family favourite, it boasts a glorious view of the Sea of Marmara. !! Daily L&D. www.gunaydinet.com. Altıntepe Mah. Kasaplar Çarşısı 10, Maltepe. T: 0216 417 9209. Off map. IL PADRINO Italian. Very fashionable Italian restaurant especially popular with families. In addition to Italian cuisine, the kebab and seafood are also very popular. Specialties include an open salad bar, pizzas, pasta dishes, special house pizza and carpaccio with arugula. !!"Daily L&D. www.ilpadrino.com.tr. İskele Cad. 8/1, Caddebostan. T: 0216 385 9319. Off map. KALAMIŞ BRASSERIE International. Located by Kalamış, one of Istanbul’s most beautiful bays, this venue is a popular meeting point for locals with its modern interior, comfortable environment and seafood-dominated menu. !!"Daily B, L&D. www.divan.com.tr. Kalamış Marina İçi, Amiral Fahri Korutürk Yat Limanı, Fenerbahçe. T: 0216 414 5703. Off map. MIA MENSA International. Offering fine Italian, Chinese and Mexican dishes, Mia Mensa is also notable for its extensive wine menu. Be sure and try the octopus carpaccio, stuffed mushrooms, the signature shrimp dish and their special mixed dessert plate. A delightful way to conclude an fun day of shopping on Bağdat Street. !!!"Daily L&D. www.miamensa.com. Plaj Yolu Sok. 18, B Blok, Suadiye. T: 0216 464 1777. Off map. ORANGE RESTAURANT Mediterranean. This venue offers the flavours of Moroccan, Algerian, Lebanese and Turkish cuisine prepared by its highly-skilled, creative kitchen team. A wide variety of grills, daily set menus and southern Mediterranean specialties promise a delightful experience. !!!"Daily B, L&D. www.orangemedgrill.com. Kayışdağ Cad. 1 /1, İstanbul Marriot Hotel Asia, Ataşehir. T: 0216 570 0038. Off map. PARK BALIK SUADİYE Fish and Seafood. Quality service and food matched by a stylish interior, classic tastes and a superb view of the Princes’ Islands. Specialties include fish roe, Fishmekanstyle marinated fish, salted salmon, calamari with Mediterranean sauce and shrimp casserole, fried stuffed squash flowers and volcano cake. !!!"Daily L&D. www.fishmekan.net. Suadiye Plaj Yolu 18, Suadiye. T: 0216 410 3959. Off map. PASTARITO Italian. Worldwide restaurant chain with centuries-old Italian recipes and a welcoming atmosphere. The combination of superb Italian dishes and Umbrian or Tuscan decor gives a true feeling of being in Italy. Favorites include the pizza Piomentese and botta di vitta dessert. !!!"Daily L&D. www.pastarito.com. Plaj Yolu Sok. 25/B, Next to the Hotel Suadiye. Suadiye. T: 0216 362 3501. Off map. SUSHICO Far Eastern. This restaurant chain presents a vast Chinese, Japanese and Thai menu, with specialities including sushi rolls, asparagus veal, Peking duck, salmon teriyaki and fried ice cream. All restaurants feature chefs from the dishes’ countries of origin. !!!"Daily L&D. www.sushico.com.tr. Sushico Suadiye, Bağdat Cad. 466/2, Suadiye. T: 0216 372 7572. Off map. Museums & Attractions Sultans’ Residence Located on İstanbul’s Sarayburnu, or ‘Palace Point’, Topkapı Palace served as the administrative centre of the Ottoman Empire for 400 of its 600 year history, and the residence of Ottoman sultans and their families. Built in 1478 by Sultan Mehmet the Conqueror (Mehmet II), Topkapı was opened as a museum for the first time during the reign of Sultan Abdülmecit in the early 1800s. Because the palace served both as an administrative centre and the sultans’ home, it was divided into two main sections, entered through the monumental gate (Bâb-ı Hümâyûn, or Royal Gate), located behind Hagia Sophia. Today a destination for tourists from around the world, Topkapı Palace is one of the most important buildings in İstanbul, which in 1985 was included in the UNESCO World Heritage List. (p. 60). Attractions BASILICA CISTERN YEREBATAN SARNICIThe largest covered cistern in İstanbul, named after a basilica once located nearby. Built during the reign of Justinian I (527-565) to provide water for neighbouring palaces. 143m long, 65m wide, with a total area of 9,800 square metres. Daily 9am-5:30pm. Admission fee: TL 10. www.yerebatan.com. Yerebatan Cad. 13, Sultanahmet. T: 0212 522 1259. F5. CISTERN OF PHILOXENOS BİNBİRDİREK SARNICI The second-largest water reservoir in İstanbul after the Basilica Cistern, this structure was built in the 4th century according to Byzantine sources. When Emperor Constantine I rebuilt the city, it was constructed to provide water to the Byzantine palace. Columns bear pyramid-shaped capitals. Located in the historical Sultanahmet region, the Cistern of Philoxenos serves as a museum today. Daily 9am-8pm. Admission fee: TL 10. www.binbirdirek.com. Yerebatan Cad. Binbirdirek, Sultanahmet. T: 0212 518 1001. F5. DOLMABAHÇE PALACE MUSEUM DOLMABAHÇE SARAYI MÜZESİ Commissioned by Sultan Abdülmecit I, this palace was built between 1843 and 1856. It reflects the Western influence in Ottoman architecture in the late 18th century, with a 600m-long façade on the Bosphorus waterfront. 58 W H E R E İ S TA N B U L I J U LY 2011 Design contains eclectic elements from the baroque, rococo and neoclassical styles. It served as Atatürk’s residence during the early Republican Period and hosted many high level foreign guests before being converted into a museum. Daily open except Mon&Thu 9am-3pm. Admission fee: TL 20. www.dolmabahce.gov.tr. Dolmabahçe Cad. Beşiktaş. T: 0212 236 9000. B7. HAGIA IRENE MUSEUM —Located in the outer courtyard of the Topkapı Palace, Hagia Irene is a Byzantine structure dating back to the 4th century. It is the second largest Byzantine church after Hagia Sophia and the only one with a surviving atrium. Also open for special events and ceremonies, the museum hosts various events. Admission fee: TL 20. Topkapı Palace 1st Courtyard, Sultanahmet, Eminönü. T: 0212 528 4500. F5. HAGIA SOPHIA MUSEUM AYASOFYA MÜZESİ Built between 532 and 537 by Byzantine Emperor Justinian I in the old city centre, Hagia Sophia, or Church of the Holy Wisdom, is the oldest and most quickly constructed cathedral in the world, and fourth largest in terms of its area. A masterpiece of art, history and architecture, it served two Abrahamic religions -916 years as the central church of the Byzantine Empire and 477 years as mosque- before being converted into a museum in 1935. Also enjoys worldwide fame for the mosaics that adorn its interior walls. Tue-Sun 9am-4pm. Admission fee: TL 10. Sultanahmet. T: 0212 522 0989. F5. GALATA TOWER GALATA KULESİ Located in the Galata district, it was built in 1348 by the Genoese in addition to the city walls to defend the region from outside attacks. The tower has a superb panoramic view of the Bosphorus, the Golden Horn and the city. The restaurant located at the top floor of the tower offers Turkish and international dishes. Daily 9am-8pm. Admission fee: TL 20. www.galatatower.net. Bereketzade Mah. Büyük Hendek Cad. 2, Kuledibi, Şişhane. T: 0212 293 8180. D4. KÜÇÜKSU PALACE KÜÇÜKSU KASRI Commissioned by Sultan Abdülmecit to architect Nikogos Balyan, this palace on the shores of the Bosphorus was used by Ottoman sultans for short stays during excursions and hunting, and also as a state guesthouse in the early Republican Period. An unmatched museum of art with its plaster moulding, hand-painted ceiling decoration, Italian marble fireplaces, hardwood floors featuring distinctive figures and fine workmanship in each room, plus European-styled furniture, carpets and paintings. Tue, Wed, Fri & Sun 9:30am-4pm. Admission fee: TL 4. Anadolu Hisarı, Beykoz. T: 0216 332 3303. Off map. Museums & Attractions MAGIC ICEThis is the first place of its type to be located in a warm country. The blue ice used here is imported from the Torne River in Sweden to create a polar adventure including the Aurora Borealis (Northern Lights), the World of Vikings, ice sculptures and much more. Magic Ice aims to be a one-of-a-kind center with its retailing/recreation/ museum concept. Its ice sculpture exhibition, gift shop and cafe offer a breathtaking experience to its visitors. Daily 10am-10pm. Admission fee: TL 20. www.magicice.com.tr. Forum İstanbul Shopping Centre, Kocatepe Mah. Paşa Cad. B1 Blok 2, Bayrampaşa. T: 0212 640 0440. Shopping Centre Map (p.14). MAIDEN’S TOWER KIZ KULESİ Built on a small Bosphorus islet off the coast of Üsküdar, the Maiden’s Tower has been in the centre of many myths. According to one, it was built by an emperor to protect his daughter who he saw die of snakebite in a dream. The effort proved futile as the snake hid itself in a fruit basket and bit her anyway. Having served as a customshouse, watchtower, lighthouse, radar station, and warehouse throughout its 2,500-year history, it also marked the entrance of the Bosphorus. The foundations and most of the lower storey of the tower were built during the reign of Mehmet II, and it took its final shape during the reign of Mahmut II. The tower has undergone major renovation and is now used as a restaurant and observation deck. Admission fee: TL 20. www.kizkulesi.com.tr. Salacak Mevkii, Üsküdar. D7. members of the Edebiyat-ı Cedide literary movement. Free of charge. Tue-Sat 8am-4:30pm. Aşiyan Yokuşu, Bebek. T: 0212 263 6986. Off map. BEYLERBEYİ PALACE MUSEUM BEYLERBEYİ SARAYI MÜZESİ Built by architect Serkis Balyan during the reign of Sultan Abdülaziz (1861-1865), this replaced the previous wooden waterfront palace. Previously it was generally used in summers, particularly to host foreign heads of state including the Prince of Serbia, King of Montenegro, Shah of Iran and French Empress Eugenie. Garden contains a cafeteria and sales booths. Daily except Mon&Thu 9am-4pm. Admission fee: TL 10. Abdullahağa Cad. Beylerbeyi, Üsküdar. T: 0216 321 9320. Off map. CHORA MUSEUM KARİYE MÜZESİ First built as a monastery in 534, this is the only remaining structure from a larger complex. Since its construction, it has seen major renovations in the 11th and 14th centuries. The modern building consists mostly of the portions renovated during the Ottoman and Republican periods. Its magnificent mosaics and frescos are among the finest examples of Byzantiane art. Thu-Tue 9am-5pm. Admission fee: TL 5. Ayvansaray Mah. Kariye Camii Sok. 26, Edirnekapı, Fatih. T: 0212 631 9241. C2. DOĞANÇAY MUSEUM Housed in an historical 5-storey building, this museum presents paintings by Adil Doğançay and his world-renowned son metres, Miniatürk is the largest model park in the world with a model area of 15,000 square metres, displaying 105 1/25 scale models of major structures the Turkish and former Ottoman region. Daily 9am-5pm. Admission fee: TL 10. www.miniaturk.com.tr. Borsa Durağı Mevkii. İmrahor Cad. Sütlüce. T: 0212 222 2882. Off map. TURKUAZOOTurkey’s first and only aquarium, Turkuazoo is situated in the huge Forum İstanbul shopping centre. In addition to observing marine life, visitors can also experience the Fun Dive, Shark Dive activity. Mon-Fri 10am-6pm. Sat&Sun 10am-7pm. Admission fee: TL 20. www.turkuazoo.com.tr. Forum İstanbul, Kocatepe Mah. Paşa Cad. Bayrampaşa. T: 0212 640 2740. Shopping Centre Map (p.14). YILDIZ PALACE, ŞALE KÖŞK YILDIZ PALACE, ŞALE KÖŞK Part of Yıldız Palace, Şale Köşk is one of the most fascinating examples of 19th-century Ottoman architecture. It consists of three main buildings constructed in between 1880 and 1898, located in a garden surrounded by high walls. Its last two sections were constructed to host Kaiser Wilhelm II during his visit to İstanbul. Daily except Mon-Thu 9:30am-4pm. Admission fee: TL 4. Palanga Cad. 53, Yıldız, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 259 8977. A8. Museums ADAM MICKIEWICZ MUSEUM Residence of one of Poland’s three national poets, who came to Turkey during the Crimean War to organize the Polish troops on the allied side. Tue-Sun 9am-4:30pm. Admission free. Serdar Ömer Cad. Tatlı Badem Sok. 17, Dolapdere. T: 0212 237 2545. B5. AŞİYAN MUSEUM Residence of prominent poet and writer Tevfik Fikret. Personal belongings of Tevfik Fikret and Abdülhak Hamid as well as photographs and belongings of other prominent SPOTLIGHT MİNİATÜRK Built on a total area of 60,000 square Old City’s Majestic Mosaics The Great Palace Mosaic Museum is one of the highlights of the Old City. Located by Arasta Bazaar, below Sultanahmet Square, the museum was built above the 6th-century mosaic-covered floor of the palace’s peristyle section. The mosaics are the largest illustrations surviving today from that period, and feature 150 human and animal figures in 90 different themes. Mostly depicting pastoral themes, the pictures include shepherds, brave hunters, and wild animals, plus illustrations of mythological creatures (p. 59). Burhan Doğançay. Free of charge. Daily 10am6pm. Admission free. www.dogancaymuseum.org. Hüseyin Ağa Mah. Balo Sok. 42, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 244 7770. C5. ERCÜMENT KALMIK MUSEUM Former residence of Ercüment Kalmık, a prominent Turkish painter. Ground floor of this museum features his workshop, and his works are exhibited on the upper floors. Tue-Sat 11am-7pm. Sarayarkası Sok. 35/37, Gümüşsuyu. T: 0212 245 0270. C6. FLORYA ATATÜRK SEASIDE MANSION FLORYA ATATÜRK KÖŞKÜ Built in 1935 for Atatürk, this mansion was used also as a summer residence by succeeding presidents. In 1988, it was converted into a museum displaying a large collection of photographs of Atatürk. Daily except Mon&Thu 9am-5pm. Admission fee: TL 2. İstanbul Cad. Florya. T: 0212 426 5151. Off map. GREAT PALACE MOSAIC MUSEUM BÜYÜK SARAY MOZAİKLERİ MÜZESİ Catch a glimpse of Byzantium 1,500 years ago in this museum featuring mosaics from the Byzantine Period. Located in the Blue Mosque Social Complex, the palace mosaics date back to 450-550 A.D. Rather than religious motifs, the mosaics depict scenes from everyday life and nature. 9:30am-5pm. Admission fee: TL 20. Sultanahmet Cami Külliyesi, Sultanahmet. T: 0212 528 4500. F4. IHLAMUR PALACE IHLAMUR KASRI Built in the Ihlamur Valley, a green wooded area located between Beşiktaş, Yıldız and Nişantaşı, this rustic palace consists of two buildings constructed during the reign of Abdülmecid I in mid-19th century. Daily except Mon&Thu 9:30am-4pm. Ihlamurdere Cad. 1, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 259 5086. A7. İSTANBUL ARCHAEOLOGY MUSEUMS İSTANBUL ARKEOLOJİ MÜZELERİ Founded in 1891 by painter and archaeologist Osman Hamdi Bey, this museum houses artefacts from the many civilizations that have left their marks upon history. It is also the first museum founded in Turkey, and considered one of the ten foremost of its kind in the world. In addition to its spectacular collections, its architecture and gardens are equally important. The museums are located in İstanbul’s Sultanahmet neighbourhood, on the street running between Gülhane Park and Topkapı Palace. It is actually three different museums under the same administration: The Archaeological Museum, the Ancient Orient Museum (Eski Şark Eserleri Müzesi) and Tiled Kiosk Museum (Çinili Köşk Müzesi), and the three together form an outstanding attraction in the city. www.istanbularkeoloji.gov.tr. Tue-Sun 9am-7pm. Admission fee: TL 10. Osman Hamdi Bey Yokuşu, Sultanahmet. T: 0212 520 7742. E5. İSTANBUL MUSEUM OF MODERN ART Non-profit cultural institution offering exhibitions and events held with the support of private individuals, institutions and establishments as well as local governments through joint projects. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm, Thu 10am-8pm. Admission fee: TL 12. www.istanbulmodern.org. Meclisi Mebusan Cad. Liman İşletmeleri Müd. Antrepo 4, Karaköy. T: 0212 334 7300. D5. MUSTAFA KEMAL MUSEUMThis three-storey house in the Akaretler Row Houses, where the founder of the Turkish Republic Mustafa Kemal Atatürk stayed frequently between 1912 and 1919, was also the residence of his mother Zübeyde Hanım, his sister Makbule Atadan and his adopted J U LY 2011 I W H E R E İ S TA N B U L 59 Museums & Attractions son, Abdurrahim Tunçak. Now a museum displaying Atatürk’s belongings and historical items from the time, it also presents videos, documentaries and films concerning the Balkan wars, the great population exchange and the National Struggle Akaretler Sıraevler 36, Beşiktaş. A7. MILITARY MUSEUM ASKERİ MÜZE Constructed in 1841 as a Military Academy, this building serves today as the Military Museum. 5,000 objects selected from the museum’s collection of 45,000 items include arms, uniforms, tents, flags, swords, helmets and Ottoman-era artefacts. One of the oldest military bands in the world, the Janissary Band gives concerts between 3 and 4pm in two sessions every day. Wed-Sun 9am-5pm. Admission fee: TL 4. www.tsk.tr. Cumhuriyet Cad. Harbiye. T: 0212 233 2720. B6. NAVAL MUSEUM DENİZ MÜZESİ Largest maritime museum in Turkey and among the most important worldwide with its rich collection of 40,000 items. Barges, marine uniforms, manuscripts, scale models, standards, maps, paintings, sultans’ signatures, coats of arms, galleys, navigation tools and weaponry. Wed-Sun 9am-5pm. Admission fee: TL 4. Deniz Müzesi Komutanlığı, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 327 4345. B7. PANORAMA 1453 HISTORYWitness the conquest of İstanbul 557 years later and relive the moment Mehmet II entered the city. Admission fee: TL 10. www.panoramikmuze.com. Topkapı Kültür Parkı, Merkez Efendi Mahallesi, Topkapı. T: 0212 415 1453. Off map. PERA MUSEUM Founded by the Suna and İnan Kıraç Foundation, the museum hosts three permanent collections including Anatolian weights and measures, Kütahya tiles and ceramics, and orientalist art, consisting of 300 paintings. Tue-Sat 10am-7pm, Sun 12am-6pm. Admission fee: TL 10. www.peramuzesi.org.tr. Meşrutiyet Cad. 65, Tepebaşı. T: 0212 334 9900. C5. PRESS MUSEUM BASIN MÜZESİTransformed into a museum in 1988, this is the first press museum in Turkey and the fourth in the world. The incredible variety of objects exhibited includes lithography samples, platen machines, letterpresses, proofing tables, old typewriters and telex machines. Mon-Fri 10am-5pm. Admission free. Divanyolu Cad. 84, Çemberlitaş. T: 0212 513 8458. F4. RAHMİ M. KOÇ MUSEUMThe first major museum in Turkey dedicated to the history of transportation, industry and communication. Located on the shores of the Golden Horn, its collection includes thousands of objects from gramophone needles to ships and aircrafts. Tue-Fri 10am-5pm, Sat-Sun 10am-7pm. Admission fee: TL 12,50. www.rmk-museum.org.tr. Hasköy Cad. 5, Hasköy. T: 0212 369 6600. B3. SADBERK HANIM MUSEUM Funded by the Vehbi Koç Foundation, this museum is located in a renovated old waterfront mansion. Exhibiting a collection of archaeological artefacts, it earned the 1988 Europa Nostra Award for its modern museum practices. Thu-Tue 10am-5pm. Admission fee: TL 7. www.sadberkhanimmuzesi.org.tr. Büyükdere Piyasa Cad. 27/29, Sarıyer. T: 0212 242 3813. Off map. SANTRALİSTANBULThe first power plant in the Ottoman Empire, this complex was later upgraded in keeping with advances in technology and served İstanbul until 1983 as the Silahtarağa Power Plant. Now within the campus of a private university, the 60 W H E R E İ S TA N B U L I J U LY 2011 historical building has recently been renovated to serve as an art and culture centre. Highlights include the old engine rooms preserved to establish an Energy Museum, plus contemporary art exhibitions and cultural events. Tue-Sun 10am-8pm. Admission fee: TL 10. www.santralistanbul.org. Eski Silahtarağa Elektrik Santralı, Kazım Karabekir Cad. 2/6, Eyüp. T: 0212 311 7809. Off map. SAKIP SABANCI MUSEUMThe main building of this museum is a villa built in 1927 by Italian architect Eduard De Nari for Prince Muhammad Ali Hasan of the Egyptian Khedive family. Purchased by the Sabancı Family in 1950, it is also known as the Equestrian Villa after the horse sculpture in the garden by Louis Domas in 1864. In 1998, it was given to Sabancı University along with its collections and furniture to serve as a museum. The mansion houses a rich calligraphy and painting collection. Tue, Thu, Sun 10am-6pm, Wed 10am-10pm. Admission fee: TL 3. www.muze.sabanciuniv.edu. Sakıp Sabancı Cad. 42, Emirgan. T: 0212 277 2200. Off map. THE QUINCENTENNIAL FOUNDATION MUSEUM OF TURKISH JEWS 500. YIL VAKFI TÜRK MUSEVİLERİ MÜZESİ (Also known as Jewish Museum) Historical documents, information and objects documenting the 700-year of history of Jewry in the Ottoman Empire. A work by sculptor Nadia Arditti to commemorate the Turkish-Jewish soldiers fallen while defending their country greets visitors at the entrance. Mon-Thu 10am-4pm, Fri-Sun 10am-2pm. Admission fee: TL 10. www.muze500.com. Karaköy Meydanı, Perçemli Sok. 1 (Behind Selanik Arcade), Karaköy. T: 0212 292 6333. D5. TOPKAPI PALACE TOPKAPI SARAYI Built in 1478, during the reign of Mehmet II (the Conqueror), Topkapı Palace served as the seat of government of the Ottoman Empire and the residence of Sultans for 380 years, until the construction of Dolmabahçe Palace. It was organised as a museum during the reign of Abdülhamid II, but not opened to the public until 1924. It consists of several sections, including the Imperial Gate, the First Courtyard (Court of the Janissaries), the Second Courtyard (Divan Square), the Third Courtyard (Enderun Courtyard), the Fourth Courtyard (Imperial Sofa) and the Harem. Guided tours in the Harem section require additional ticket purchase. Wed-Sun 9am-5pm. Harem, 9:30am-15:30pm. Admission fee: TL 20. www.topkapisarayi.gov.tr. Sultanahmet Meydanı. T: 0212 512 0480. E5. TURKISH AND ISLAMICS ARTS MUSEUM TÜRK VE İSLAM ESERLERİ MÜZESİ First museum in Turkey to offer a joint exhibition of Turkish and Islamic art. Founded in 1914, and renovated in 1983. Collection of rare works from various countries in the Islamic world including precious examples of stone and kiln-dried, metal, ceramic and glass objects as well as manuscripts. Hand-woven Turkish carpets dating from 13th to 20th centuries. The lower floor of the carpets section hosts an ethnography section exhibiting Turkish daily life over the centuries. Tue-Sun 9am-5pm. Admission fee: TL 10. www.tiem.org. İbrahim Paşa Sarayı, Sultanahmet. T: 0212 518 1805. F4. YILDIZ PALACE MUSEUMS YILDIZ SARAYI MÜZELERİ Complex of former imperial Ottoman pavilions and villas representing the last examples of Ottoman palace architecture, located on Yıldız Hill. The first building in the area was constructed during the reign of Ahmet I in the 17th century. The palace in its current form was built at the order of Abdülhamid II in 1880, who wanted his seat of government beyond the reach of bombardment from the sea. Items exhibited today originally belonged to the palace, including Abdülhamid II’s personal belongings and gifts presented to him, and products of the Yıldız Porcelain Factory still located on the palace premises. Wed-Sun 10am-4pm. Admission fee: TL 8. Barbaros Bulvarı, Hamam Sok. Beşiktaş. T: 0212 258 3080. A8. Mosques İstanbul’s mosques are among the most outstanding witnesses to the city’s long history. Each has a unique history and architecture, and is open to visitors at vario times of the day. The following is a list of some of the highlights. Most open daily from dawn to sunset. No admittance during the Friday prayer times between approx 12pm-1pm. Before entering the mosque, visitors should cover their arms and legs; women should cover their heads. EYÜP SULTAN MOSQUE Located in Eyüp on the northern tip of the Golden Horn, where one of the first followers of Islam, Eyyubu El-Ensari was buried after he was killed during the Arab siege of Constantinople. Mehmed II ordered the construction of a shrine and a mosque on the location. The first mosque, which was completed in 1458, was later destroyed, with the present structure constructed by Uzun Hüseyin Efendi between 1798 and 1800. Eyüp. A1. NURUOSMANİYE MOSQUE Commissioned by Sultan Mahmut I in 1748, this mosque was completed during the reign of his brother Osman III, built by Mustafa Aga. With its baroque style and the three-dimensional stone patterns, it is one of its kind in world architecture. The mosque’s two minarets feature the first stone combs used instead of lead ones. Nuruosmaniye, Eminönü. E4. ORTAKÖY MOSQUE Located next to Ortaköy Pier, this mosque was commissioned by Sultan Abdülmecit to Karabet Balyan. The structure underwent restoration between 1960 and 1972. It is a baroque structure featuring a single dome with two slim minarets. White stone was used for walls, mosaic and marble for the mihrab, and porphyry for the pulpit. Ortaköy, Beşiktaş. A9. SOKULLU MEHMET PAŞA MOSQUEWith a single dome and minaret, and built in Kadırga in 1507, this mosque was commissioned by Ottoman Grand Vizier Sokullu Mehmet Pasha to Mimar Sinan for his wife. Its interior features İznik tiles and special hand-carvings, with a mihrab covered with calligraphic tiles. All three gates of the mosque open onto the courtyard through the madrassah portico. It is considered a very special structure as one of Sinan’s the three masterpieces. Şehit Mehmet Paşa Yokuşu, Kadırga, Eminönü. F4. SULTANAHMET BLUE MOSQUE One of the most famous landmarks of the Turkish and Islamic world, Sultanahmet Mosque is a highly admired structure by all visitors. An example of classical Turkish art, it is the only one of its kind to be originally built with six minarets, and stands out on the city’s skyline from the Bosphorus. It is also known as the Blue Mosque for the İznik tiles that adorn its interior. Entering the structure through one of its three gates, visitors are greeted by its rich and colourful ornamentation including engravings, tiles and Museums & Attractions stained glass windows that complement the grandeur of its exterior. Sultanahmet. F4/F5. SÜLEYMANİYE MOSQUE Commissioned by Sultan Süleyman I (Süleyman the Magnificient), this mosque was built between 1550-1557 by Sinan the Architect. Described as a work from Sinan’s apprenticeship period, the mosque is actually part of the Süleymaniye Complex (Külliye), also including a madrasah (religious school), library, hospital, bath, soup kitchen, treasury and shops. Resting on four massive columns, the mosque’s dome is 53 metres high and 26.5 metres in diameter. Its interior is subtly decorated, with the windows on the mihrab wall decorated with stained glass. Süleymaniye, Beyazıt. E3/E4. VALİDE SULTAN MOSQUE YENİ CAMİİ Located in Eminönü Square next to the Egyptian Bazaar (Spice Market), the mosque in the centre of a complex is one of the most glorious of the monumental mosques built on the coastline. It was commissioned by Safiye Sultan in 1597 and built by Architect Davud Ağa, an apprentice of Sinan. Upon his death in 1598, Dalgıç Ahmet Çavuş became its architect. Largely destroyed by a fire in 1660, it was reopened in 1665. Eminönü. E4. Churches and Synagogues Churches and synagogues hold an important place in the vast cultural geography of İstanbul, which has served as capital of three major empires over 1,600 years. The following are the most important of Istanbul’s churches and synagogues for their history and architecture. ARMENIAN PATRIARCHATEJust a 20-minute walk from Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque and Topkapı Palace. In 2001, almost the entire Armenian community of İstanbul celebrated the 540th anniversary of the Armenian Patriarchate at this church. Open Mon-Fri 9am-4pm. Şarapnel Sok. 20, Kumkapı. T: 0212 517 0970. B4. BETH ISRAEL SYNAGOGUE Built in 1920, this synagogue provides religious services under the Neve Shalom Foundation. It is the most active synagogue in Turkey. Bomonti, Kazım Orbay Cad. 29, Şişli. T: 0212 240 6599. Off map. BULGARIAN ST. STEPHAN CHURCH Bulgarian Orthodox Church, also known as the Bulgarian Iron Church, because the columns, mezzanines and floors are made of cast iron. Located between Ayvansaray and Mürselpaşa Streets, Fatih. T: 0212 511 2198. C2. CATHEDRAL OF THE HOLY SPIRIT Built in 1846, this is the second largest Roman Catholic church in the city. Visited by Popes Paul VI, John Paul II and Benedict XVI. Masses held in French and English. Cumhuriyet Cad. 205, Harbiye. T: 0212 248 0910. B6. CHURCH OF ST. GEORGE OF THE FENER GREEK ORTHODOX PATRIARCHATEThe centre of the Orthodox Christian world, this church hosts many relics including the column on which Jesus was whipped and remains of three great saints. The church is also famous for the high profile weddings of jet-setters. Sadrazam Ali Paşa Cad. İncebel Sok. Fener. T: 0212 531 5152. C3. DİRİSU CHURCH New Protestant church opened in 2002. Mon-Fri 9am-5pm, Sat&Sun 9am-12:30pm, 3pm-6pm. Ergenekon Cad. Bilgiç Sok. 11/B, Feriköy, Şişli. T: 0212 232 9669. A6. HOLY TRINITY GREEK ORTHODOX CHURCH Located at the intersection of Sıraselviler Street and İstiklal Street in Taksim, this church is a synthesis of Byzantine and modern architecture with a cruciform plan and twin bell towers. Daily 9am-5pm. Meşelik Sok. 11/1, Taksim. T: 0212 244 1358. C5. NEVE SHALOM SYNAGOGUEThe most famous Jewish synagogue in the city. Shabbats, weddings, funerals, brit milahs, bar/bat mitzvahs as well as high holidays are celebrated here. Büyük Hendek Cad. 67, Kuledibi, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 293 7566. D4. NOTRE DAME DE L’ASSOMPTION CHURCH Roman Catholic church on İstanbul’s Asian side. Built with the funds collected from wealthy Catholic families, this church is open on Sundays for religious services. Cem Sok. 5, Moda, Kadıköy. T: 0216 336 0322. Off map. ST. ANTHONY OF PADUA CHURCH Roman Catholic church with the largest congregation in İstanbul. The entrance to the church is between the two apartment buildings where priests reside. Reinforced concrete construction built in Italian neo-Gothic style by architect Guillio Mongeri. Mon-Fri 8am-5pm, Sun 9am-12:30pm, 2pm-5pm. İstiklal Cad. 325, Galatasaray, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 244 0935. C5. J U LY 2011 I W H E R E İ S TA N B U L 61 Galleries & Antiques Epic Temptations Young artist Özlem Şimşek’s exhibition Epik Ayartma (‘Epic Temptation’) is on show at Galeri Zilberman (to 16 July). Answering the pioneers of painting with her own photography, she makes allusions to portraits of women by past Turkish painters, and even dressing like the figures in the paintings. Şimşek’s original art almost creates a conversation with significant Turkish artists (p. 64). Antiques and Collectibles AIRPOINT GALLERY & AUCTION This gallery was established to introduce art enthusiasts to classic and contemporary Turkish plastic arts and artists, and also offers consultancy services for individual and institutional private collectors. This is the spot for masters of Turkish classical and contemporary painting, sculpture and ceramic arts. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. www.artpointgallery.com. Ahmet Fetgari Kalıpçı Sok. Tamar Apt. 106/3, Teşvikiye. T: 0212 260 9705. A7. ANTİK PALACE Nearly 260 art and antique auctions have been held by this house, where numerous Turkish and world records have been broken. Antik A.Ş. is the organizer of the first and most comprehensive contemporary painting, wine, book and classic automobile auctions in Turkey. Daily 9am-7pm. www.antikpalace.com.tr. Süleyman Seba Cad. Talimyeri Sok. 2, Maçka. T: 0212 236 2460. B7. ARTI MEZAT Providing antique buying and sales services, the shop guarantees the authenticity of each piece with options of lowest commission and earliest payment. Find the best value on Ottoman and European pieces, paintings, porcelain, glass and ceramic objects, silver objects bearing bear the sultan’s signature or seals, Korans, calligraphy, books and engravings at Artı Mezat. 62 W H E R E İ S TA N B U L I J U LY 2011 Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.artimezat.com. Ahmet Fetgari Sok. Can Apt. 146/148, Teşvikiye. T: 0212 233 7037. A7. BEYAZ MÜZAYEDEThe establishment holds its 13th auction at Sofa Hotel featuring masterpieces of modern and contemporary art. Printed with 5 different covers, the catalogue presents the objects to go under the hammer under two sections: Day Sale and Evening Sale. www.beyazart.com. Teşvikiye Cad. 41-41A, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 368 1818. A6. CEZAYİR ANTIQUE & ART HOUSEA place where collectors and people interested in arts and both antiques can find what they are looking for, and get the best value for the pieces they have. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.cezayirantik.com. Firuzağa Cad. Cezayir Çıkmazı Sok. 4/1, Galatasaray, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 251 7153. C5. HORHOR ANTIQUE CENTREThis seven-storey building is famous with local antique collectors, and each object here has a story, from armour worn by an English knight in his last battle, to the massive armchair of a French aristocrat. Daily 10am-18pm. www.horhor.com. Kırk Tulumba Sok. 24, Horhor, Aksaray. E2. KHAFTAN ART & ANTIQUEA delightful venue hosting a collection of fine antiques and works by modern Turkish artists. Established by Orhan Yılmaz and Adnan Çakarız, Khaftan’s vast array includes Ottoman era textiles, ceramics, silverworks, oriental paintings, books, engravings and maps collected both in Turkey and abroad. Also available are oil paintings by contemporary Turkish artists, miniature paintings and calligraphic art. Daily 9am-8pm. www.khaftan.com. Nakilbent Sok. 32, Sultanahmet. T: 0212 458 5425. F5. MAÇKA MEZAT Maçka Mezat is a pioneer promoting Ottoman artworks and Turkish paintings in auctions, with a wide array of artefacts primarily Ottoman silver, tombaks, ceramics and calligraphy plus European and Russian artworks, Orientalist paintings and Chinese porcelain. Mon-Sat 9am-6pm. www.mackamezat.com. Maçka Cad. 24/1, Teşvikiye. T: 0212 259 4513. A6. MECİDİYEKÖY ANTIQUE CENTRE Established in 1982, this four-storey antique centre is home to nearly 80 shops with mainly European, particularly French and British, antiques. Catering to all manner of antique and vintage enthusiasts, the centre offers high-quality pieces. Mon-Sat 10am-6pm. Kuştepe Yolu Girişi 52, Mecidiyeköy. T: 0212 217 8093. Off map. PORTAKAL ART AND CULTURE HOUSEThe Portakal Family has contributed to Turkish arts and culture for three generations, since early 20th century. Galleries & Antiques In addition to antique dealing and auctioning, they also provide art consultancy services for private museums, institutions and special collections. Mon-Sat 9am-7:30pm. www.rportakal.com. Mim Kemal Öke Cad. Gün Apt. 8, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 225 4637. A6. SAHAFLAR ÇARŞISIThe oldest market to have survived from Ottoman times, it is located on Beyazıt Square in the historical neighbourhood of Beyazıt, next to the Grand Bazaar. A must-see for booklovers visiting the Grand Bazaar, with old and new Turkish and foreign books, as well as old banknotes, coins and stamps. E4. out-of-the-ordinary experience. Mon-Sat 10am-6pm. www.borusanmuzikevi.com. İstiklal Cad, Orhan Adli Apaydın Sok. 1, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 336 3280. C5. C.A.M GALLERY AKARETLERTo 30 July. In 500 Flowers for Zeynep, Emin Uras portrays his inner sacred emotions through the vehicle of flowers. Uras actually trained as an architect, but has also been involved in painting for many years. Şair Nedim Cad. 25, Akaretler. T: 0212 245 7975. A7. Unless specified, admission is free to all galleries. CAMHANE GLASS & ART DESIGNA typical two-storey Fener house built with special stone, and located next to the St. Stefan Bulgarian Church, Camhane’s building served as a residence of the Slavic Beys (lords) during Ottoman times. Following its restoration in 2005, the building was reborn as centre of glass art in the historic FenerBalat district. To 3 July. Transparency. Cypriot-born Yorgos Papadopoulos and Turkish native Yasemin Aslan Bakiri tell a story of fraternity and protection in a joint exhibit. Mon-Sat 10 am-6 pm. www.camhane.com. Balat Mah. Mürsel Paşa Cad. (next to the Bulgarian Church), Fener - Balat. T: 0212 521 6000. Off map. AKBANK SANAT BEYOĞLUTo 30 July. Akbank CDA PROJECTS To 14 July. The Normless/Formless/ ZIVA ANTIQUE Meaning ‘the sparkle of gold’ in Hebrew, Ziva was founded by Simentof El in 1966. Exclusive antique jewellery collections and objets d’art are the most frequent items here. Boutique floor of Ritz-Carlton. Gümüşsuyu Asker Ocağı Cad., Elmadağ, Taksim. T: 0212 293 1634. A6. Galleries Sanat’s Modern Art for Children programme combines with the 30th Modern Artists İstanbul exhibition. Featuring the works of young artists, this gives children the opportunity to discover and become acquainted with works by a variety of artists. Tue-Sat 10:30am-7:30pm www.akbanksanat.com. İstiklal Cad. 8, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 252 3500. C5. Homeless presents works by artists Elif Aydoğdu Ağatekin, Mehmet Ali Boran, Özge Ertanın, Burçin Esin, Mehmet Fahracı, Onur Girit, Ece Gülin Kasap, Umut Kılıç, Emrah Karakurum, Elif Sanem Karakoç, Melike Kılıç, Ege Okal, Menekşe Samancı, Sabri Atalay Yavuz and Didem Yılmaz. To 16 July. For this year’s Young/New/Different project, the works of Özlem Şimşek were chosen from over 300 applicants. Şimşek’s original works allow us to ‘speak’ with Turkey’s foremost painters, allowing us a first-hand look at this delightful relationship. Tue-Fri 10am-7:30pm. Sat 12pm-7pm. www.cda-project.com. İstiklal Cad. 163, Mısır Apt. K:2, D:5, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 251 1214. C5. ÇIRAĞAN ART GALLERY To 20 July. With works from the İstanbul State Painting and Sculpture Museum, plus from private collections in America, France, Japan, Germany, Holland and Turkey, Yunus Tonkuş’ Günce (‘Diary’) consists of 12 bronze, stone and steel sculptures. Open 24 hours daily. www.kempinski.com.tr. Çırağan Palace Kempinski Art Gallery. Çırağan Cad. 32, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 326 4646. B8. DAİRE SANAT To 2 July. Sözün Görüntüsü (‘Appearance of the word’), presents threedimensional writings and uses visuals to present their inner meaning. Tue-Fri 11am-6pm, Sat 11am-7pm. www.dairesanat.com. Akarsu Cad. SPOTLIGHT AMERICAN HOSPITAL ART GALLERYTo 10 July. Gözde Türkkan’s exhibition Looking Back at You provokes us to discover the relationship between male and female, and transmits the tension born of the power dynamic between the sexes. Güzelbahçe Sok. 20, Nişantaşı. A6. ARTE İSTANBUL To 29 July. Arte İstanbul, Turkey’s first and only sculpture museum, hosts Ergin İnan’s exhibition İkisi de ben (‘Both are Me’). With several works on display for the first time, the collection consists of bronze sculptures and oil paintings – and even some works which combine elements of both. Daily 10am-6pm. www.arteistanbul. com. Kumbaracı Yokuşu, Tercüman Çıkmazı 16/1, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 292 8045. A6. ART LİMİTS A varied collection ranging from fashion photos, nature and abstract geometric works to figurative illustrations, inc works by several international artists, in a variety of photographic, digital and mixed techniques. Şair Nedim Cad. 14 Akaretler, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 258 2195. A7. BEYOĞLU AKADEMİLİLER ART CENTRE To 20 July. Figür Aktif mixed painting exhibition. Balo Sok. 37/1, off İstiklal Cad, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 245 0229. C5. BEYOĞLU BELEDİYESİ ART GALLERY To 23 July. Beyoğlu Municipality presents Su Perisi (‘Water Nymph’), an exhibition of photographs by Trabzon artist Atilla Alp Bölükbaşı. The 85 photographs are a product of his five-year effort. İstiklal Cad. 437, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 249 2610. C5. BORUSAN MUSIC HOUSE To 25 Sep. Last year’s Madde-Işık (Matter-Light) exhibition here drew 35 thousand visitors. This year’s show with works by seven modern artists, turns perceptions of gravity and time on their heads for a very Diaries In Bronze And Steel Master sculptor Yunus Tonkuş’s exhibition Günce (‘Diary’), in the garden of Çırağan Art Gallery, consists of large-scale pieces in bronze and steel (to 31 July). Held through a collaboration between Arte İstanbul Art Centre and Çırağan Palace Kempinski Art Gallery, the exhibition of metal sculptures backed by the palace’s facade creates a fascinating visual spectacle (p. 63). J U LY 2011 I W H E R E İ S TA N B U L 63 Galleries & Antiques Şimşirci Sok. Santral Apt. 11/1, Cihangir. T: 0212 244 1268. C5. DEPO To 31 July. Uzun Bakış - Kısa Bakış (‘The Long Gaze - The Short Gaze’), by Knut Asden. Lüleci Hendek Cad. 12, Tophane. C5. FRENCH CULTURAL CENTRE To 10 Sep. Throughout this summer, the centre hosts Parodies: The Comic Book Satirizes Itself, an exhibition to appeal to comic lovers of all ages. Included last winter in the famous Angoulême Comic Book Festival, the exhibition is a fun look at the history of comic books and the legendary characters they have created. www. infist.org. İstiklal Cad. 8, Taksim. T: 0212 393 8111. A6. GALERİST AKARETLER—To 9 July. Warhol in Motion is the first-ever Turkish exhibition of Andy Warhol, including a taste of his wide reperoir with films, videos and polaroids by this major 20th-century artist. Süleyman Seba Cad. 4-8, Akaretler. A7. GALLERY ZİLBERMAN To 16 July. In her exhibition entitled Epik Ayartma (‘Epic Temptation’), artist Özlem Şimşek employs society’s values, images and knowledge and presents them in her own unique style to take the viewer on a journey through time. To 16 July. Artist Özlem Şimşek examines the past through a synthesis of her own history in oversize self-portraits. www.galerizilberman.com. İstiklal Cad. 163, Mısır Apt. K:3 D:10, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 251 1274. C5. İSTANBUL FOUNDATION FOR CULTURE AND ARTS (IKSV) To 30 Nov. The İstanbul Culture and Arts Foundation joins the New York’s MoMA in a special project. Entitled Destination: İstanbul, the project consists of over 100 works by Turkish designers, selected by MoMA, which will be for sale for two months at MoMA’s design shop. After a special opening in May, and continuing for seven months, the entire collection will be featured exclusively in the İKSV Design Shop in Turkey. Mon-Sat 9:30am6pm. www.iksv.org. Sadi Konuralp Cad. 5, Şişhane. T: 0212 334 0700. C5. İSTANBUL ARCHAEOLOGY MUSEUMS (İSTANBUL ARKEOLOJİ MÜZELERİ) To 6 July. Presenting a slice of history, 18 works from an ancient city are now on display in an exhibition entitled “Travelling Stones: The Iasos ‘Marbles’ in the İstanbul Archaeology Museum.” It marks the final completion of the longstanding preservation work undertaken on the marbles in the museum’s garden. To 1 Aug. The İstanbul Archaeology Museums welcome Anatolian Empires, with works representing the various empires to flourish in Anatolia, from the Hittites to the Ottomans. Highlights include great marble statues to coins, manuscripts and seals, on display in the Assos Hall. Tue-Sun 9am-5pm. Admission fee: TL 10. www.istanbularkeoloji.gov.tr. Osman Hamdi Bey Yokuşu, Gülhane, Eminönü. T: 0212 520 7742. E5. İSTANBUL MUSEUM OF MODERN ART Non- profit cultural institution offering exhibitions and events held with the support of private individuals, institutions and establishments as well as local governments through joint projects. To 2 July. Kayıp Cennet (‘Paradise Lost’) exhibition incorporates digital media and videos by 21 artists. Their focus is on nature, the effects of industry and technology on the environment, subjects even more pertinent in the face the earthquake in Japan and its subsequent potential nuclear disaster. To 4 Sep. Using silent faces, artist Lale Tara creates timeless and spaceless stories in Masum Suretler (‘Innocent Faces’), bringing an almost supernatural quality to the faces she photographs. Tara invites us to look at the theme of mother and child, a powerful figure especially in Renaissance painting. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm, Thu 10am-8pm. Admission fee: TL 12. www.istanbulmodern.org. Meclis-i Mebusan Cad. Liman İşletmeleri Sahası 305, Antrepo 4, Karaköy. T: 0212 334 7300. D5. NAKKAŞ ART GALLERY—To 19 July. Master designer Modern Viewpoints SPOTLIGHT 64 W H E R E İ S TA N B U L I J U LY 2011 The Modern Denemeler (‘Modern Experiments’) project series opens at SALT Gallery Beyoğlu, aiming to create a multifaceted approach to Turkey’s journey of modernism, with the first installation of the series, Ahmet Öğüt’s Yokuş Boyunca (‘Down the Slopes’). Öğüt’s installation (to 1 Oct) consists of a modified automobile stuck on a slope, alluding to competing national pride and the obstacles in which naive middle-class dreams became entangled. The project is accompanied by discussions and video shows (p. 65). Yılmaz Zenger’s exhibition and accompanying interview, Kültür Katmanları (Layers of Culture) is described by Zenger as emulations of İstanbul’s past, that allow the viewer to look at the city through an artist’s eyes. www.nakkasrug.com. Nakilbent Sok. 33, Nakilbent Sarnıcı, Sultanahmet. T: 0212 516 5222. F4. PERA MUSEUM To 3 July. One of the most original names in 20th-century Turkish painting, as well as a rare entirely self-taught artist, İhsan Cemal Karaburçak is especially well known for his signature deep blues and purples. This exhibition, 40 years after his death, presents 90 of his works. To 3 July. Temelde İnsan: Çağdaş Sanat ve Nörobilim (Basic Man: Modern Art and Neurology) brings together seven modern artists whose works overlap with neurological research. With a wide variety ranging from digital video to quick prototype sculptures drawn by robots and photoshop-enhanced photographs, the artists use technology as a source of inspiration. The pieces explore new visualisation technology and processes, and also an awareness of how these processes relate to neurology as a science. Tue-Sat 10am-7pm, Sun 12am-6pm. Admission fee: TL 10. www.peramuzesi.org.tr. Meşrutiyet Cad. 65, Tepebaşı. T: 0212 334 9900. C4. PG ART GALLERY To 20 July. Seven artists of various disciplines tell stories of humanity as it produces and changes. Boğazkesen Cad. 76/B, Tophane. T: 0212 252 8000. D5. PG ART SPACE To 25 July. Teşbih (‘Similitude’) by prominent Turkish painter Yavuz Tanyeli uses blobs of colour, figures caught between formation and deformation, and symbolic objects reflecting his second look at the world. Merkez Mah. İstanbul Cad. Göktürk, Eyüp. T: 0212 263 3390. A1. Pİ ARTWORKS GALATASARAY To 9 July. In her show Erotik Çizgi (‘Erotic Line’), artist Gülay Semercioğlu questions the historical meanings of such concepts as the body, sexuality and privacy. Transmitting these images as colour, form, texture and light, she makes a subjective, subconscious analysis. To 27 Feb. Nancy Atakan’s exhibition, Sahtekar Olmadığımızı Nereden Biliyoruz? (‘How do we know we are not charlatans?’) examines the influence of the media, art history and advertising on people. Mon-Sat 10:30am-7:30pm. www.piartworks.com. Mısır Apt. İstiklal Cad. 165/4, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 293 7103. C5. Pİ ARTWORKS TOPHANE To 16 July. İrfan Önürmen’s exhibition Otopsi (‘Autopsy’) is an archive and continuation of his newspaper series. To 27 Feb. The exhibit Buralı 1970-2011 (‘Native’) attempts to answers the question, “Who really owns our streets”, beginning with its own neighbourhood. Mon-Sat 10:30am-7:30pm. www.piartworks.com. Boğazkesen Cad. 76, Tophane. T: 0212 245 4087. C5. SPOTLIGHT Galleries & Antiques REZAN HAS MUSEUM ART GALLERY To 31 Aug. Ateş Pervaneleri: Tulumbacılar (‘Like Moths to the Flame: The Ottoman Fire Brigade’) is a fascinating insight into the tulumbacılar, literally the “pumpmen”. Known as military/civilian fire fighters, they were also local neighbourhood symbols of bravery and honour, and transformed into today’s modern fire brigade. Daily 9am-6pm. Admission fee: TL 3. www.rhm.org.tr. Kadir Has Üniversitesi, Kadir Has Cad. Cibali, Eminönü. T: 0212 533 6532. D3. SAKIP SABANCI MUSEUM—To 28 Aug. The exhibition Across presents archaeological artefacts from 3000 B.C. excavated from the Cyclades Islands and Western Anatolia. Held through a collaboration of Turkish museums, National Archaeology Museum in Athens and the N.P. Goulandris Foundation Cycladic Art, the show examines the relationship between Anatolia, where the first steps of civilization were taken, and the nearby Cycladic islands, two similar but culturally distinct cultures. Tue, Thu, Sun 10am-6pm, Wed 10am-10pm. www.muze.sabanciuniv.edu. Sakıp Sabancı Cad. 42, Emirgan. T: 0212 277 2200. Off map. SALT GALLERY BEYOĞLU To 7 Aug. In addition to an artist, Hüseyin Bahri Alptekin was also a thinker, educator, writer and curator. The gallery, which houses Apltekin’s entire archive and personal library, has assembled this wide-ranging exhibition, Ben Bir Stüdyo Sanatçısı Değilim (‘I am not a Studio Artist’), based on its research of the artist’s life and works. To 1 Oct. The newly-opened Modern Denemeler (‘Modern Experiments’) examines Turkey’s adventure with modernism from a variety of angles, and features series originator Ahmet Öğüt’s installation, Yokuş Boyunca (‘Along the Slope’). Tue-Sat 12pm-8pm. Sun 10:30pm6pm. İstiklal Cad. 136, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 377 4200 C5. SANTRALİSTANBUL 12 July-11 Aug. The works of 19 brilliant young artists are on show at On the Territory: Contemporary Art in Colombia. Held by the Colombian Foreign Ministry, the exhibition includes 37 photographs, plus paintings, sculptures, installations and video works Tue-Sun 10am-8pm. www.santralistanbul.org. Eski Silahtarağa Elektrik Santralı, Kazım Karabekir Cad. 2/6, Eyüp. T: 0212 311 7809. Off map. SODA To 26 Aug. Now their very own tradition, the SODAmore Summer Modern Jewellery Art Exhibit opens once again this year with many new names. Following the world of international art and design, this includes the collections of top names in modern jewellery design. The unusual exhibition Art For Everyone! A new base for the arts, Artlimits has opened in the historic Akaretler row houses in Beşiktaş. Its broad collection ranges from fashion photography to nature, abstract geometric and figurative illustrations, and includes works by a host of international artists in a wide variety of photographic, digital and mixed techniques. All the works are printed in archive pigment ink on Hanemühle paper, which has a life of over 100 years, mounted in acid-free mats and framed by top-quality materials (p. 63). presents almost 100 unique pieces created from such diverse materials as glass, metal, rubber, Plexiglas, wood, paper, plastic and ceramic. Mon-Sat 10am-6:30pm. www.sodaistanbul.com. Şakayık Sok. 37/1, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 231 8988. D6. TEŞVİKİYE ART GALLERY To 15 July. The exhibition Flip Flop, brings together work by Turkish artists including Can Büyükmehmet, Nükhet Göldeli, and Ali Özhan Güneş. Akkavak Sok. Demet Apt.4/A, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 241 0458. D6. X-İST—To 16 July. Serkan Adın’s show ‘Oyunbozan’ (Killjoy) displays a variety of characters in scenes of children’s games, in which the viewer is left outside the game, in the role of the observer. Mon 12pm-7:30pm. Tue-Sun 11am-7pm. www.artxist.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 42/2, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 291 7784. A6. J U LY 2011 I W H E R E İ S TA N B U L 65 Essentials Buses City buses are run by the İstanbul Metropolitan Municipality. Tickets may be purchased at sales points in central transfer points or the fare may be paid during entry. The Akbil – an electronic chip purchased for a deposit fee at sales points – is handy for longer stays. Valid on buses, trams, metro and ferries, it is easily charged at machines located in many stations, and provides halfprice transfers. Ticket prices vary according to distance. www.iett.gov.tr. Information Line T: 0800 211 6068, Headquarters T: 0212 245 0720. Taxis The bright yellow taxis are available around the clock, and are best hailed on the street. It is best to avoid taxis waiting outside major tourist venues and hotels. Fares should always run on the meter, with the same tariff now for both day and night. Ensure the meter is running as soon as you get in, and refuse to take a journey where the driver tries to agree a price in advance. These are a safe mode of transport day and night. Metro Punctual, reliable, efficient and economic public transport, the underground trains are especially good to avoid the rush hour traffic. Buy tokens from wending machines at stations or 66 W H E R E İ S TA N B U L I J U LY 2011 use an Akbil (see buses), which can be charged at machines located in each station. www.istanbul-ulasim.com.tr. T: 0212 444 0088. METRO LINESAksaray-Atatürk International $LUSRUWō§LąKDQHWR'DUđąąDIDNDZLWKVWRSVDW 7DNVLP2VPDQEH\§LąOL*D\UHWWHSH/HYHQW /HYHQW6DQD\L7²$\D]DÛD $WDWđUN2WR6DQD\L'DUđąąDIDND TRAM LINES=H\WLQEXUQX.DEDWDą ō*đQJùUHQ%DÛFàODUō.DGàNù\0RGD ō7DNVLP.DEDWDą)XQLFXODU Seabuses 6HDEXVHVRSHUDWHRQOLQHVDQGVHUYHSRLQWV ZZZLGRFRPWU7 FAST FERRY LINESŌ<HQLNDSà%XUVD<HQLNDSà ō<HQLNDSà%DQGàUPD<HQLNDSàō<HQLNDSà<DORYD <HQLNDSàō3HQGLN<DORYD3HQGLN INNER-CITY SEABUS LINESŌ%RVSKRUXV/LQH %HąLNWDą.DGàNù\ PRINCES’ ISLANDS SEABUS LINE .DEDWDą .àQDOà%XUJD]+H\EHOL%đ\đNDGD%RVWDQFà Bosphorus Ferries &LW\IHUULHVRSHUDWHRXWIURP6LUNHFL(PLQùQđDQG .DUDNù\SLHUVDOOGD\ORQJWRWKH%RVSKRUXVDQG the asian side. Visit www.sehirhatlari.com.tr for the latest updated timetables. T: 0212 444 1851 NOSTALGIC BOSPHORUS TOURS ō(PLQùQđ'HSDPSP ō%HąLNWDą'HSDPSP ō$QDGROX.DYDÛà'HSSPSP Train Travel HAYDARPAŞA TRAIN STATION The principal VWDWLRQRI7XUNLVK6WDWH5DLOZD\V7&''LV located on İstanbul’s Asian side. For enquiries, ZZZWFGGJRYWU7 SİRKECİ TRAIN STATION7&''VWDWLRQORFDWHG on the European side. For enquiries, www.tcdd.gov.tr. T: 0212 520 6575. Airports İstanbul has two major international airports; one on the European side and the other on the Asian side. ATATÜRK AIRPORTThe largest of the two, and the first airport in the city, this is situated 24km west of the city centre, on the European side. With both international and domestic flights operating round the clock, it boasts fully equipped emergency health services. The airport is accessible by metro; however, a taxi is recommended, particularly if carrying heavy OXJJDJH5HJXODUVKXWWOHEXVHVUXQE\JURXQG Essentials VHUYLFHVSURYLGHU+DYDąDSSUR[HYHU\PLQV depart to and from Taksim, stopping at Aksaray, (WLOHUDQG%DNàUNù\&KHFNIRUVFKHGXOH Havaş Call Center T: 0212 444 0487. www.havas.com.tr. Atatürk Airport Enq7 www.ataturkairport.com. SABİHA GÖKÇEN AIRPORT /RFDWHGRQWKH $VLDQVLGH6DELKD*ùNÍHQ$LUSRUWLVNP IURP.DGàNù\NPIURP3HQGLNDQGNP from Taksim. 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ZZZSODQWRXUVFRP7 DEN&DEN DENİZCİLİKWith a professional crew DQGIULHQGO\VHUYLFH'HQ'HQ0DULWLPHKDV shared the magnificent views, natural beauty and historic buildings of the Bosphorus with visitors to Istanbul for the last six years. Check out their services, including rental of cruise boats and yachts, including special VIP vessels for all types of activities and events. www.kiraliktekneler.com. 0HFOLVL0HEXVDQ&DG.)àQGàNOà.DEDWDą 70RELOH SWISSÔTELTwo boats owned by the hotel, İstanbul 1 and İstanbul 2, extend the elegance of 6ZLVV÷WHOWRWKH%RVSKRUXVDVZHOOZLWKWKHLUğQH decor and food service. Brunch, lunch and dinner served during the tours. 7H[W SÜREYYA V One of the best Bosphorus tours available. Perfect ambiance with its stylish and elegant design matching the grandeur of the %RVSKRUXV*XHVWVDUHVHUYHGDPHWLFXORXVO\ prepared menu of international dishes. ZZZDGDWXUL]PFRP7 SEA TAXIS ZZZGHQL]WDNVLFRPWU 7 SU SAMURUWith their specially built boats and a well-trained team of captains, this sea taxi gives 24-hour service year round. ZZZVXVDPXUXFRP7 Consulates Albania, VPHWQùQđ&DG'HQL]$SW *đPđąVX\X7DNVLP7 Australia, ZZZHPEDXVWUDOLDRUJWU$VNHURFDÛà &DG5LW]&DUOWRQ5HVLGHQFHV.(OPDGDÛ 7DNVLP7 Austria, ZZZWXUNH\HPEDVV\JRYDX.ù\EDąà&DG <HQLNù\7 Azerbaijan, 6đPEđO6RN/HYHQW 7 Bahrain, www.bahrainconsulate.org.tr. Fahrettin .HULP*ùND\&DG$OWXQL]DGH²VNđGDU T: 0216 544 2462. Belgium, ZZZGLSORPDWLHEHLVWDQEXO6àUDVHOYLOHU &DG7DNVLP7 Bosnia and Herzegovina, 'LNLOLWDą0DK<HQL*HOLQ 6RN%HąLNWDą7 Brazil, $VNHU2FDÛà&DG6đ]HU3OD]D. (OPDGDÛ§LąOL7 Bulgaria, www.bulgarianconsulate-ist.org. Ahmet $GQDQ6D\JXQ&DG/HYHQW T: 0212 281 0115. Canada,VWLNODO&DG%H\RÛOX 7 China, ZZZFKLQDHPEDVV\RUJWU.LUHÍEXUQX0DK 0àVàUOà&DG0HPGXKSDąD<DOàVà6DUà\HU 7 Czech Republic,$EGLSHNÍL&DG0DÍND 7 Denmark,ZZZGDQLPDUNDRUJWU0H\JHGH6RN %HEHN7 68 W H E R E İ S TA N B U L I J U LY 2011 Egypt,&HYGHW3DąD&DG%HEHN 7 Finland,<HQLqDPOàN&DG$\D]6RN/HYHQW 7 France, www.consulfrance-istanbul.org. İstiklal Cad. %H\RÛOX7 Greece,ZZZJUHHNHPEDVV\RUJWU7XUQDFàEDFà6RN %H\RÛOX7 Germany, www.germanembassyank.com. İsmet QùQđ&DG*đPđąVX\X7 Hungary, Büyükdere Cad. 171, Metro City, 0LOOHQQLXP$%ORN/HYHQW7 India, www.indembassy.org.tr. Cumhuriyet Cad. 'ùUWOHU$SW(OPDGDÛ7 Iran, $QNDUD&DG&DÛDORÛOX7 Israel, %đ\đNGHUH&DG<DSà.UHGL3OD]D&%ORN. /HYHQW7 Italy, ZZZFRQVLVWDQEXOHVWHULLW%RÛD]NHVHQ&DG 7RP7RP.DSWDQ6RN7RSKDQH%H\RÛOX 7 Japan, %đ\đNGHUH&DG7HNIHQ7RZHU. /HYHQW7 Jordan, %đ\đNGHUH&DG=LQFLUOLNX\X 7. Korea, .DSWDQSDąD0DK3L\DOH3DąD%XOYDUà2UWD 'RÛX3OD]D.2NPH\GDQà§LąOL7 Kuwait, &HEHFL&DG$NDWODU7 Latvia, %DÛGDW&DG(UHQNù\ 7 Lebanon, 7HąYLNL\H&DG$YHQXH6DUD\$SW 7HąYLNL\H7 Lithuania, qDYXąEDąà&DG.DYDFàN T: 0216 425 0500. Macedonia, QùQđ&DG²ÍOHU$SW' *đPđąVX\X7DNVLP7 Malaysia, +DODVNDUJD]L&DGqDQND\D$SW. '§LąOL7 Mexico, %DOPXPFX0DK%DUERURV%XOYDUà *DP]H$SW%HąLNWDą T: 0212 274 2464. Monaco, .ù\EDąà$UNDVà6RN3DUN$SW' <HQLNù\T: 0212 262 4148. Netherlands, www.dutchembassy.org.tr. İstiklal &DG%H\RÛOX7 New Zealand, QùQđ&DG7DNVLP T: 0212 244 0272. Norway, %LOH]LN6RN)àQGàNOà7 Poland, ZZZVWDPEXONJSROHPEQHW*L] 3OD]D$\D]DÛD.ù\đ<ROX.0DVODN 7 Portugal, 0HFOLVL0HEXVDQ&DG.DEDWDą )àQGàNOà7 Romania, <DQDUVX6RN1DULQ6LWHVL(WLOHU 7 Russia, ZZZWXUNH\PLGUXVWLNODO&DG %H\RÛOX7 Saudi Arabia, .RQDNODU0DKqDPOàN&DG$NDV\DOà 6RN/HYHQW7 South Africa, www.southafrica.org.tr. Alarko +ROGLQJ$§0XDOOLP1DFL&DG2UWDNù\ T: 0212 227 5200. Spain, .DUDQğO$UDOàÛà6RN/HYHQW T: 0212 270 7410. Syria, 0DÍND&DG5DOOL$SW.7HąYLNL\H 7 Sweden, www.swedenabroad.com. İstiklal Cad. %H\RÛOX7 Switzerland, %đ\đNGHUH&DG/HYHQW3OD]D A %ORN./HYHQW7 Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus, <HQL*HOLQ 6RN%DOPXPFX%HąLNWDą 7 Ukraine,$GDNDOH6RN§HQOLNNù\)ORU\D T: 0212 662 2541. United Arab Emirates, www.uaeconsulate.com.tr. %đ\đNGHUH&DG0HąHOL6RN/HYHQW 7 United Kingdom, www.britishembassy.org.tr. 0HąUXWL\HW&DG7HSHEDąà%H\RÛOX 7 USA, www.istanbul.usconsulate.gov. İstinye Mah. .DSOàFDODU0HYNLLVWLQ\H7 Emergency, Medical EMERGENCY AMBULANCE Public. Open 24 hours. T: 112. MEDLINE Private ambulance service. Open 24 KRXUV7 AIR AMBULANCE Private. Open 24 hours. T: 0212 220 4054. ACIBADEM HOSPITAL Private hospital with state-of-the art practices and technology, with H[SHULHQFHGDQGVSHFLDOL]HGSK\VLFLDQV Offers medical services in all departments. Call for the hospital near your location. ZZZDFLEDGHPFRPWU7HNLQ6RN$FàEDGHP .DGàNù\7 AMERICAN HOSPITAL9HKEL.RÍ)RXQGDWLRQ $PHULFDQ+RVSLWDOLVDIRXQGDWLRQRZQHG acute general care hospital. Each year the +RVSLWDOVHUYHVSDWLHQWVSURYLGLQJ a comprehensive array of primary care and specialty services. The medical staff includes over DFWLYHDQGYLVLWLQJSK\VLFLDQV7KH+RVSLWDOLV accredited by the Joint Commission International. ZZZDPHULNDQKDVWDQHVLRUJ*đ]HOEDKÍH6RN 1LąDQWDąà7 Dr. SİYAMİ ERSEK HOSPITALThe largest coronary centre in Europe and fourth largest in the world. A public hospital with a 40-year history, it is among the leading centres in the Middle East and Europe in cardiology and thoracic, coronary DQGYDVFXODUVXUJHU\(PHUJHQF\6HUYLFHRSHQ KRXUVZZZVL\DPLHUVHNJRYWU7àEEL\H&DG +D\GDUSDąD.DGàNù\7 INTERNATIONAL HOSPITALA leading private hospital which has played a pioneering role in the adoption of many technologies and practices in Turkey including the first open heart surgery, LQYLWURIHUWLOL]DWLRQFHQWUHDQG05VHUYLFHVLQ the country. www.internationalhospital.com.tr. VWDQEXO&DG<HąLONù\7 MEDAMERICAN OUTPATIENT CLINIC MedAmerican Outpatient Clinic, located on the Asian side of İstanbul, is an outpatient clinic of the $PHULFDQ+RVSLWDO7KHFOLQLFRIIHUVDZLGHDUUD\ of medical, surgical, and ancillary health care VHUYLFHVZZZPHGDPHULNDQFRP&HPLO7RSX]OX &DGqLIWHKDYX]ODU7 TAKSİM İLKYARDIM HOSPITAL Public hospital which is easily accessible thanks to its central ORFDWLRQ(PHUJHQF\6HUYLFHRSHQKRXUV 6àUDVHOYLOHU&DG7DNVLP7 Emergency, Dental BYOMED Private medical centre that puts patient satisfaction first and approaches patients with empathy, offering services with a live support V\VWHPZZZE\RPHGFRPWU6DQL\H(UPXWOX6RN %\2WHOO.R]\DWDÛà7 DENTİSTANBUL—First and only dedicated dental KRVSLWDOLQ7XUNH\6SHFLDOLVHGDQGH[SHULHQFHG staff, fully equipped operating room, ambulance Essentials and bed services. www.dentistanbul.com.tr. &HGLGL\H6RN%HąLNWDą7 Pharmacies Pharmacies are open during day until 7pm. Every day, a different pharmacy remains open for 24 hours as a night pharmacy in every neighbourhood. The names of the night pharmacies are displayed on the window of every pharmacy. Pharmacists can give injections, check blood pressure, dress minor wounds and provide recommendations on medical assistance. Tourism CITY TOURISM AND CULTURE DIRECTORATE ZZZLVWDQEXONXOWXUWXUL]PJRYWU Main Office$OD\.ùąNđ*đOKDQH3DUNàLÍL (PLQùQđ7 Branch,$W0H\GDQà6XOWDQDKPHW T: 0212 518 1800. Sightseeing VODAFONE—www.vodafone.com.tr. T: 0212 444 0542. 6LJKWVHHLQJ7RXULVDPLQXWHSDQRUDPLFEXVWRXU of the city. With one ticket, it offers the chance to discover and take pictures of this city that unites Europe and Asia, and has been capital of the 5RPDQ%\]DQWLQHDQG2WWRPDQ(PSLUHV7LFNHWV DYDLODEOHDWVDOHVSRLQWVQHDUWKH+DJLD6RSKLD 0XVHXPDQGLQ7DNVLP6TXDUH ZZZSODQWRXUVFRP&XPKXUL\HW&DGGHVL (OPDGDÛ7 Avea Directory—11855. Lost Property Same Area Calls—just the 7 digit number. CREDIT CARDS9LVD7 0DVWHUFDUG7 $PHULFDQ([SUHVV7 Foreign Exchange BAMKA DÖVİZ—'DLO\DPSP ZZZEDPNDQHW&XPKXUL\HW&DG7DNVLP 7 TOURISM INFORMATION OFFICES— Sultanahmet,$W0H\GDQà7 Taksim,+LOWRQ+RWHOHQWUDQFH(OPDGDÛ7DNVLP 7 Yeşilköy,$WDWđUN$LUSRUW<HąLONù\ 7 ALO ABACI DÖVİZ—'DLO\DPSP 7HąYLNL\H&DG1LąDQWDąà7 Tourism Police GSM Operator <HUHEDWDQ&DG6XOWDQDKPHW 7 TURKCELL—ZZZWXUNFHOOFRPWUHQ 7 AVEA—www.avea.com.tr. T: 0212 444 1500. Emergency & Useful Numbers İstanbul Directory—11811. Turkcell Directory— Vodafone Directory—11842. Area Codes in İstanbul—(XURSHQ6LGH $VLDQ6LGH From Area to Area—0+area code+number International—0+0+ country code+area code+number. MEYDAN DÖVİZ—'DLO\DPSP 0ROODIHQDUL0DK9H]LUKDQ&DG1XUXRVPDQL\H (PLQRQđ7 Rock’n Coke Turkey’s largest open-air event, the seventh Rock’n Coke Festival takes place at Hezarfen Airport (16-17 July). This year, in addition to the main stage, three auxilliary stages present a wide variety of music, promising a weekend full of great acts, including Moby, Travis, Limp Bizkit, Thievery Corporation and many more. In addition to that, Rock’n Coke’s activities and entertainment area, together with a 10,000 capacity camping area, combine to make this an unforgettable festival. www.hezarfen.com.tr. T: 0212 887 1517. J U LY 2011 I W H E R E İ S TA N B U L 69 Central Istanbul Map The Last Word My Istanbul Uğur Karabayır 1 Founding Member, Mar Group A graduate of the Public Relations and Management departments of Anadolu University, Uğur Kayabayır makes food videos for the “Trendus” website, where he also writes a column. He loves to have e fun in the kitchen discovering new ew flavours, staying very closely involved in both the kitchens and the menus of the restaurants he owns. Here are some of his favourite things to do in İstanbul. 8 Hardal 2 DON’T LEAVE İSTANBUL WITHOUT... Cassette, with stores in Nişantaşı and Suadiye, sells works by various designers – an excellent choice for those in search of a beautiful gift from Turkey. Have fun photos taken at the nostalgic GiyÇek (Dress and Snap) photograph studio in Galata. You can dress up from a collection of Ottoman-era costumes, from a sultan to a high-ranking Paşa, a palace courtesan, a beautiful harem girl or an veiled upper class lady on a boat outing in Göksu. Or perhaps you’d prefer to ‘be’ a chic secretary from Üsküdar, a rebellious street tough, or a fearless Janissary. Enjoy a wonderful kebab dinner in the middle of the Bosphorus at Suada Kebap on this man-made entertainment ‘island’. Asmalımescit is an important, up-andcoming neighbourhood both for its historical buildings and its bustling energy. Check out the famous Miss Pizza, the Asmalımescit Karadeniz Pide Salon for their Black-Sea style pide, and try the shots and hot dogs at Oktoberfest. Travel back to how the Ottomans used to shop, at the Grand Bazaar, an amazing covered market 550 years old. Even if you are not a fan of shopping, this is a fascinating historical attraction 6If you want to get a little closer to the 72 W H E R E İ S TA N B U L I J U LY 2011 sea and enjoy a fish dinner, look no further than Arnavutköy Balıkçısı – a good choice for location and top cuisine. Try a Vanilla Sky at Up Lounge while taking in view of the Golden Horn and İstanbul’s historical area. Tea Time at Çırağan Palace, the Hilton Dragon Restaurant and Swissotel’s Gaja restaurant are other places to experience. Pera Museum is a real gem regarding Turkish artefacts on show, plus their temporary art exhibitions. Don’t miss their permanent collection of orientalist painting, created by European artists between the 7th and 20th centuries. If you get hungry while walking around the designer shops along Abdi İpekçi in Nişantaşı, stop by Hünkâr for delicious Turkish food, try Quick China for sushi on Atiye Sokak, Bahar Pastanesi for tempting pastries, or Hardal, famous for international cuisine. 7 1 8 Get to the heart of Turkish art in the 20th century at İstanbul Modern. In a converted warehouse on the Bosphorus, their exhibitions and galleries are wonderful – and you’ll love the view from their restaurant. Enjoy an afternoon at İstinyePark shopping centre and enjoy the fresh, airy environment, then have dinner at one of the fine restaurants, including Masa or Borsa. 9 Hünkâr