A Study of the Fort of Dun Aengusa in Inishmore, Aran Isles, Galway
Transcription
A Study of the Fort of Dun Aengusa in Inishmore, Aran Isles, Galway
A Study of the Fort of Dun Aengusa in Inishmore, Aran Isles, Galway Bay: Its Plan, Growth, and Records Author(s): Thomas Johnson Westropp Source: Proceedings of the Royal Irish Academy. Section C: Archaeology, Celtic Studies, History, Linguistics, Literature, Vol. 28 (1910), pp. 1-46 Published by: Royal Irish Academy Stable URL: http://www.jstor.org/stable/25502776 . Accessed: 08/08/2013 18:12 Your use of the JSTOR archive indicates your acceptance of the Terms & Conditions of Use, available at . http://www.jstor.org/page/info/about/policies/terms.jsp . JSTOR is a not-for-profit service that helps scholars, researchers, and students discover, use, and build upon a wide range of content in a trusted digital archive. We use information technology and tools to increase productivity and facilitate new forms of scholarship. For more information about JSTOR, please contact support@jstor.org. . Royal Irish Academy is collaborating with JSTOR to digitize, preserve and extend access to Proceedings of the Royal Irish Academy. Section C: Archaeology, Celtic Studies, History, Linguistics, Literature. http://www.jstor.org This content downloaded from 140.203.12.206 on Thu, 8 Aug 2013 18:12:55 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions PROCEEDINGS OP ROYAL THE PAPERS ACADEMY IRISH READ THE BEFORE ACADEMY I. A STUDY OF THE FORT OF DUN AENGUSA IN INISHMOEE, ITS PLAN, GROWTH, AND ARAN ISLES, GALWAY BAY: RECORDS. By THOMAS JOHNSON WESTROPP, M.A. (Plates 13. [Read December Ordered for publication I.-III.) Deobmbbb : Sections Appendices 1. Legendary 2. Problems 3. The Origin. of the Legend. Plan. 4. Records 5. The 16, 1909. of its Features. Published Febeo ah* 17,1910.] : A. Bibliography B. Unpublished 1880. C. Published and View?. Descriptions Accounts before to 1880. Wort in 1909. we may to say that only one has appealed as a to of the the imagination, and the affection, nation, building, and the type and symbol of the countless similar become, with most antiquaries, Of all the early forts of Ireland even structures, all subordinate to it in interest. At Emania and Tara it is the seutimjent and tradition, not the remains, that so appeal ; but at Dun Aengusa thie site and the building affect even the coolest mind as no blaze of mythic It is easy to see how this pre-eminence ox historic could do. association aj-pse. Many of u$ still renumber the sense of almost inaccessible remoteness " the spot feel to the Aras of the Sea." All who have visited that attached " " and the swirling abyss of the gigantic precipice t|e repellent attraction over which the fort is so airily poised. Then there is the pathos?no less of it the refuge of a doomed and hunted ratee than of its that made CheJeg^d on the the broken grey walls own inevitable invested destruction?that R. I. A. PROC, VOL. XXVIH., SECT. C. [1] This content downloaded from 140.203.12.206 on Thu, 8 Aug 2013 18:12:55 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions ?Proceedings farthest notice of edge of the undescribed the old world. learned for over the middle till of the Royal Irish Academy. facts The that the fort had attracted the its compeers years, while lay on the revival of and that century ; two hundred of the last sound archaeology it was studied and most described by some of impressively our greatest and Dunraven?all scholars?P?trie, O'Donovan, Ferguson, or the told in its favour. None other of the forts-?not Tara, Emania, so honoured. Grianan of ?ileach?-was a paper on it at present. May I, it over thirty years ago, ere its an attempt to record its Irish Academy It needs justification to bring forward as one of the few who noted and sketched restoration, bring before the Boyal and its present architectural condition ? No one, I believe, has as history " in it in 1884, or described detail since its far,too thorough ."restoration yet to decide what of its present features are ancient, what warrant endeavoured there may have been for the restored work, or what the remains have to tell to scientific antiquaries. In all this there seems, not only an excuse, but a for another essay ; so I may venture to give the results of work necessity, in 1878, and many invidious occasions, without subsequent incurring In this spirit in the same field of study. comparisons with great predecessors I lay these notes before the members of the Academy. done 1.?Legendary .-.. must We In the commence of Irish revival with of Origin an oft-told the tale?that Fort. of " the sons of Um?r." nationalism that great under King Brian, before in to have monarch's death is versified a his Mac said 1014, bard, tragic Liag, from a far remoter past. The period was one of derived legend, probably and towers restoration ; law and order, arts and learning, forts, churches, an were being restored everywhere; other matters, and, among attempt was made to recover all that survived and in these the dark of "tribal and and destructive ninth historic century;, of lies most poems compilations lays" " " of the of the Dalcassian realm. These knowledge beginnings on Tara, Eman, the mythic beginnings were obscure beside glory that rested or Kathcroaghan of banshee*wooer the ; but the Dal gCais (descendants our Oilioll the Olum) and the Corca-modruad (sprung and from Fergus Mac Boigh their to hear what befell must have Queen Maeve) longed now The "in the and ancestry beginning," they no longer lacked a bard. of tribe centres at Dun Aengusa related to the period before the legend that on the hills of Burren over three centuries before Mghad, Fergus settled great on the edge and Enna, the conquering Dalcassian Princess, C?nall, recorded history added the southern fringe of Oonnacht (a.D. 360-400), from which it eventually North Munster, usurped the name Thomond. This content downloaded from 140.203.12.206 on Thu, 8 Aug 2013 18:12:55 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions of to ofDun Aengusa in Inishmore^ Aran. The Fort Westropp? song1 told how a Firbolg in the Hebrides, exile land Oppressed by the perennial The after an Sons tribe?the of Um?r, in the 3 or Huathm?r? Valley. Boyne to Tara? paid question?their " of the fled Maeve to were its befriended heroic Connacht, queen, they by Cattle Foray," and were settled round Clew Bay and Galway Bay about the of our era. beginning got settlements rack-rent settled westward, "They along the pleasant As far as Dun Aenghusa in Ara :3 coasts, ...... They Daelach They planted Aenach constructed settled Irgas took possession The prose of Beara obtained the Dind of Ceann : Boirne his just portion Senchus3 in its account independence the poem. at Dail : ' a ' dun in his neighbourhood. at his headland They Concraid : at Muirbeeh Mil stationed tells of Ennach ; in the sea at Inismedhoin." a and like Bir, a tale, with but otherwise trace of closely following a rent which on the children of Um?r "Cairpre" (it says) "imposed so they decamped could not be endured, from him, with their possessions, to Ailill the sea?Oengus in Dun and Medb, and set up beside westward . . .Mil near Port at at Mil in Ara Murbech Murvey,* (perhaps Aengusa, on Dail in and the last) ; Daelach Corcomroe, Clare) ; Ballydeely (Lissydeela Bir at Rind Beara Sirraim (Finnavarra, Burren, Clare) ; and Ennach, from . . at whom is Tech nEnnach Rind Doon Fort, Corcomroe). Irgus (perhaps on Black Head, Burren) at Inis Boirne ; . . . Conchiurn (Caherdooneerish, " . . . Taman at Rind Tamain Medon (Tawin (Dun Conor, Inismaan, Aran) ; All The knights these lay round the bay of Galway. Island, Galway). who stood securities for the Firbolgs to the King of Tara claimed the penalty, of so the Huamorian warriors, Cing, Cimbi, Irgus, and Conall (son of Aenghus Dun Aengusa), met in deadly combat the Red Branch Knights?Ross, 1" Ossianic vol. v., p. 287. Society," 2 If that escaped in Aran, a remnant be right, there was an earlier colony of Firbolgs Keating or Picts the carnage of the Battle of Moytura banished p. 199?The Cruithnigh (ed. D. Comyn), them out of these islands. 3 " Revue 1894, pp. 478-480. Celtique," ' 4P?trie p. 68 ; but there was a regards this as reaUy Cill Murmhaighe? Military Architecture," It is strange that Dun Oghil makes the chief's name. great fortification which may have originated no mark in legend, [1*] This content downloaded from 140.203.12.206 on Thu, 8 Aug 2013 18:12:55 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions 4Proceedings of theRoyal Irish Academy. The Firbolgs Conall-Gernach, Cet, and OaefctdMiL1 fell, and the settlements were broken up, leaving a legend and their reputed forts?" vacuae sedes et to our days.2 inania arcana"?as their monument is a curious There than allusion The name, in the tale. " in the Book of Lismore his misty thus described Aengusa, more concrete of Briun, son of Smethra, helmet is "?" It was the brasier of Oengus, of Dun to the founder son of Umor, who made it, even a helmet a ball of gold above the Indians, with of the pure purple of the land of It had strings of beads of in variegated stitching, and was one it." bronze, carbuncles, red-gold, and white of the three chief fabrics of the realm of Erin.3 once stood with less blurred outline, for (if the Firbolg Prince Probably " the taking of Dun Oengusa "* it indeed allude to the Aran Fort) a poem on a severe one to students of the fort. once existed, and its loss is probably about 617, alludes that Tighernach, these, it is barely possible " " of Dun-ainega," for the Firbolg to the place, in recording the combustion " names have been recast in some cases, into familiar forms, as Ghonchobhair, Besides and Chonchiurn, and Fergus to the forts of Inismaan for Concraid and later attached Now lived as regards in fortresses." ? Dun eentury for Irgus, in the legends and Burren. of 1684, adds, "Thus legend, one of its versions they forts were meant the bards of the tenth by is certain. in 1684, records the Roderic OFlaherty, the main Which Aengusa Conor in Inishmaan was named from Conquovar ("Concraid" the attributed to the fort Conor na peasantry legends); of Thomond, who fell in battle, 1267,6 and whose O Brien,5 Prince Siudaine in Clare (as it is still called Caherdooneerish tomb is with us to this day. " " was rendered of the Caherdoonfergus by the map-makers peasantry) by seems to He have searched for traces 1839, with the sanction of O'Donovan.7 legend in the that Dun but older of Fergus, son of Boigh, and so, probably by leading questions (the deadliest 1The in Ara is also given in Keating's of Aonghus of D?n Aonghusa of Ireland Legend History vol. iv., edited by D. Comyn), p. 201. in 1877 and 1878, nor my late brother the late Dr. WY H. Stacpoole Westropp and I, in 1878, could find any local legend as to who was the builder or Ralph fiugh Westropp of the Doon. The same seems true of the Kev. W. Kilbride. It is a great what was the history left his valuable favoured student of Aran seems to have paper on only pity that this last most (Irish Texts, 2Neither Iararna and some crude general notes in manuscript, the latter now in the collection of the Boyal When John O'Flaherty Irish Academy. about 1820, Tales of Cuchullin and the Bed Branch wrote, in 1839 does not seem to have heroes as well as of Finn, Oscar, and Ossian, were recited. O'Donovan found any traditions of early date. " of the Saints, from the Books of Lismore '*"lives <ed. Whitley '1890, p. xxx. Stok?s), " 4" O'Arbois de Jubainvflle's of the Epic Literature of Togail Duine Oengusa "?M. Catalogue p. 244. Ireland," *" Dublin vol. xli., p. 501. Magazine,*?' University * So in Annals of Inisfallen and the Four Masters, but 1268 in those of Clonmacnois. 7 Co. Clare (ms. 14, B. 23, II. I. Acad.), Ordnance vol. i., p. 205, Survey Letters, This content downloaded from 140.203.12.206 on Thu, 8 Aug 2013 18:12:55 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions Westhopp? The Port ?f Dun Aengusa in Inishmore, Aran. ? names or folk-lore), in collecting found what he so greatly " " never The who heard of Irgus (or Eerish desired. peasantry, phonetically), " " " names and the Caherdooneerish without Doonirias,"1 gave prompting; indeed I was at the time obsessed by the name on the map, and only driven source of error and I had collected things by the names which Dr. Macnamara on at different a,nd occasions. Another different places place independently on the is the Doon Fort,a contemplated by probably legends ridge at the " " source of the Daelach, near Kilfenora/ This tallies well with the Dun to better and called "Tech nEnnach,"."in by Ennach, From the latter the river Dail3 (or Deely) Daelach. of the neighbourhood" is supposed to be named, Fort (which may have been made the existing local names of Lissydeela the place intended by the legend-makers) and Bally deely near Ennistymon. ?f Cairnconnaughtagh, whence (2) Problems oe the at the great cairn Lesend. the legend has more than a shadow of a true history at the most no The Firbolgs dwelt in only nine raths in Meath; thinker can assert. the base yet they covered with colonies the islands of Clew Bay (Innse Mod), of Croagh Patrick round the H?ck?tt country (Oigle), (Cimbe), the Lough That critical in Burren, two in Corcomroe, one in east end of Galway Bay, two divisions over for Clare to eastern the north, the west, and the s?uth-west fifty miles a struggle after the death of of Aran.4 That such a tribe collapsed without is fiction indeed, but not even artistic romance, if either nor now the fort state that Aengns built the the prose legends poem anywhere " of the Dun;'** the construction bearing his name, though the poem mentions of ?nha?h. to a Were we even dealing with history, we could not attribute four of its warriors short-lived tribal in group the BOO forts of Aran and the alleged settlements and the thirty near Tawin5 ; yet such ? CJar?, the 100 near Lo?gh Haekett, held by antiquaries belief was complacently from 1840, till wider views arose at the close of the last century.6. To us no type of earthen or stone fort can 1 Journal p. 4. Ireland, (referred to as E.S.A. Royal Society, of Antiquaries, 1.), yol. xxxi., Ibid., vol. xxvii., p. 126. 3The river into the sea between Lehinch and Liseannor. It should b? noted, However, flowing ** near Ennis. is called also a river Dahilyegh Tarse? Flu" that there was The "Deely_" " in the map of 1610, but" Talegh is marked beside it. (P Farset) 4 Other or Tory Hill, a settlement jound Drumassall legends made Asal son of Timor establish near Croom, in County Limerick. 5 In Aran and over 100 round Lough Sackett 200 in ?orcomroe, 12, over 265 in Burren, . .. near Tawin Island. -^ (Lough Cimbi), and 30 6 The This of,course of earthen forts, like.&athcroghan. Firbolgs were better known as makers their building stone forts on bare crags. Yet the very curious earthy does not ten against Jbv?l on the bare summit of 1044 feet above the sea, pear Caherdooneerish, Hill, platform, Aghaglinny 2 This content downloaded from 140.203.12.206 on Thu, 8 Aug 2013 18:12:55 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions 6Proceedings of theRoyal Irish Academy. be assigned to anyone race or period. all these types spread across Nearly and to from Aran ; and they even occur in Austria, Perm, Esthonia, Europe North America, in the great river valleys of the United The ring States. fort was, there is every reason to believe, an instinctive idea1 of our race in from perhaps more than twelve centuries before Europe, than twelve after its dawn. We also find circular defences our era to more among the tribes and of ; and the older races of the first continent North America made the ring of stone, earth, or palisading. Thus children on the seashore, without rath and the high mote, study, dig the triple-ringed with its bailey ; and the herdsman and labourer build dry stone rings for of Africa and New Zealand or dig a fosse and ring-mound to fence a plantation. see no We cattle-pens, to distinguish the periods and uses of our early short of excavation, means, while anterior the to the twelfth century, depends entrenchments, stonework, on the character of the stone,2 not on the fancy of the builder. In face of all or any other exclusive how the Firbolg, the Danish, considerations, seems be all should may have elements of theory adopted amazing, though much truth, short of the exclusive truth in them?often assertion. a fortress as Dun Aengusa or Dun Conor in The existence of so mighty these little Whence islands has puzzled many. came "the troops of slaves *' ? in face of has been Now the raised them asked. probable explanation, in these and other stone forts, the evidences of modification and addition these who over long periods of time, perhaps at as for As and intervals, required. taking place organization rebuilding for the collection of materials the legend elsewhere?take ring-walls of the building of the Grianan of Aileach, we find "the stones were drawn " or those of the origin of the name where masses of by horses; Firbolg/' earth are carried in leather sacks; while the legend of Caherconree tells of is that their construction spread of pillar-stones for its construction.3 (standing or prostrate) or the popular We need not believe in'the Dagda "greyer than the grey mist/' or legends, to see that even the wildest romancer set his story in etymology, the collection near it? amid the crags of Burren, and the liss of Doontorpa the great earthen rath of Ballyallaban, of raising the first two The difficulty in craggy regions were not unknown. show that earthworks forts must have been very great. 1This has in his of late, and is elaborated several by Dr. Gu?bhard impressed antiquaries " " " This most at the 1907, p. 1004. address, Camps et Enceintes Congr?s Pr?historique,'' and motes all over Europe illustrations helpful comparative study of ring-forts gives the following and steps the cliff to the east (fig.'3) ; fort from the north (fig, 49); :?From Aenghus ope (fig. 57). 8 at Dun Aengusa. I failed to find any ; but evidence believed that he saw hammer-work Windele on the edge of Burre? and in the Clare forts of Ballykinvarga and Boughan for hammer-work in eastern Clare is well established. Langough translated in Ordnance vol. i., p. 223 ; and Revue 3Dind Senehus Survey Memoirs, Celtique, ?f Dun and vol. xvi., p.'41, J448, This content downloaded from 140.203.12.206 on Thu, 8 Aug 2013 18:12:55 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions Westropp?The Fort of Dun Aengusa in Inishmore, Aran. 7 a of fact known In more historic times our to all his hearers, setting " oldest law code provides and for for the of duns," "joint labour erecting " " are to fortify them in the fort for the who also labourers ; upon feeding it."1 St. Enda, the chief saint of the very island in which Dun Aenghusa round Bossory Church in Fermanagh stands, dug the great fosses and mounds seven converts levelled the hill-top, made and his St. Mochulla (circa 460). at both walls, and dug fosses round Tulla Church in Clare, traces remaining are stated to have been completed ; the last works, though extensive, a year (circa A.D. 610) .2 The in the same royal rath at Clonroad, Cairbreach county, with rings and outworks, was commenced by Donchadh son Conor,3 Prince of and his O'Brien, Thomond, (1241-1260) by completed places within isle of in the middle Conor, was the main trouble ; and if In fact, the Aran.4 " horses or oxen were used, this was greatly lessened.5 Instead of troops of a a a at that small tribe, working few years time, at slaves,"6 it is possible intervals over a couple of centuries, could, in a place where stone so abounded, " build even a fortress as vast as the Aran Dun." " " Those who have seen horses and cattle floated behind a canvas curragh at the Aran Isles cannot deny that large animals may have been brought to the traditional builder of Dun (? repairer) of the stones collection as absurdly to all appearance in early times by means inadequate. " " The tells how Cuchullin carried off three cows, swimming Fairy Chariot shows behind his "curach," the "vast ocean,"7 which strongly through in Magradin's Also that before 1106, as now, such transport was known. " Life of St. Enda," 1380, we are told of the horses of Corbanus grazing at Aran on this Ardnagcaorach grantor, died. The question connexion. Do absolutely very before island, of the names 489, when King Aenghus, forts may be touched on founders, even if Mac Liag's of the Aran commemorate their they ? They are anonymous unreliable except three :Dun Aenghusa, 1Seanchus Mor, vol. i., pp. 131-137. ' '"Vita S. Fanoheae," in Colgan's There are several (vol. xvii., p. 145). the in this tale be which " in Analecta Bollandiana Vita S. Mochullei," Acta; from St. Patrick, who directed other fort-building saints, and St. Mochuda earthworks to be dug at his monastery in Armagh, (or (evidently circular) who dug the small "liss" at Lismore, which, when his monastery Carthage), county Waterford, " the great lisa. sprang up at it, became Lismore," 5<? Cathreim Thoirdhealbhaith." * " Dublin vol. xii., p. 50. University Magazine," " " 6The Second Battle of Moytura xii., p. 79), four score yoke of oxen (B?vue Celtique, see Dind to move a flat stone. For horses at the building of Grianan Aileach, employed Senchus, p. 41. O.S.L., 6 some thirty slaves appear to build forts ; a gang of apparently Such, sometimes, were employed in the legend of ?'The Battle of Magh as raising a rath at Magh Feimhin, in southern Leana," Tipperar y. 7Journal R. S. A. I., vol. xi., consec., p. 3?9. This content downloaded from 140.203.12.206 on Thu, 8 Aug 2013 18:12:55 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions 8Proceedings of theRoyal Irish Academy. ' " at least 900 years ago ; Dun Conor, possibly Dun Concraidh John Windele at that time ; and Dun Farvagh. evidence' (on the uncertain of Comyn about 1750) states that "Fearbach" was ? demon monster, and " "; for its a dracontium the fort it is As to the name Aenghusa, worship.1 b?re its name a most place very maris as William O. Borlase first pointed out, that ? coincidence, on the coast of in language is described "Enchusa," Holland, 6i to far the different suitable coast of Aran. loci munitum, Natura curious called furore objectum, situm despicit*" terra? margine quern in extremo " A proper name Ancheusanus" occurs in an inscription at Mayence.2 Two be advanced with theories might One regard to the name of the Dun* a to gods or heroes, the far that, like other great works, it was attributed for famed hold, piled by the hands of giants for godlike kings of old"; " son a of Dagda is said, in the Agallamh,"3 to have given(< fort (dun) and Angus a most town excellent, ,with lofty stockades" stronghold (dingna), spacious as we a was His also father, noted, fort-builder, (sonnach). having built the fort of Grrianan Aileach stone The and the earthen Eath has second been theory possible that Dun Aengusa namely, about A.D. 460. It is true Brese with advanced already was named its "cladh."* by Ledwich and of after Aenghus, others, King that "the three Aras of the sea" are Cashel, of the King named among the forts of Cashel in the ^Book of Eights."6 son of ?sTatfraich lands in the islands gave (or rather perhaps Aenghus ' " of King Hatf raich, (Ml of Cashel-builder them) to St. Enda ; and a Clochar, is named in a poem circa A.D. 1000, and stated to have built a fort at C?shel for King A?nghus the its plausibility, himself.* However, despite lay so far away from every interest of a king of Cashel, the name Aenghus takes away any great weight being very common, from the theory, The MLife of St? Enda '"asserts that Aran, in about 480, fact that the islands and was the residence Ninuis of OorbanuSi the pagan king of Corcomodruad (in terror St. Enda,. who fled in from county Clare); superst?tious states that Aenghus King of Cashel knew nothing about the island. north-west It also This proves at least that ! the latter prince.1' about 1380 the writer attributed, no Aran fort to ?AVmdele's ms. "lar Mumhan" p. 709). (mss. It. I. Acad;), 2 "Dolmens of Ireland," vol. iii., p. 1129. ^ 3 Silva vol, i., p. 103 ; vol. ii., p. 111. j Gadelica, " 4 " Revue an Dagdae," vol. xii., p. 65 ; also the long lines of the Slicht Loirge Celtique," with his club, and perhaps the mound of N?wgra?ge. 5???Book of Rights" p. 91. (ed. 0'Donovan), 6Poem on early masons son of Flannacan (c. 1000), O'Curry,[::iAManuscript by Donnell of of Ancient Irish History," l?erials p. 222 ; Book of Leinster, p. 27b. As to Goll being come it must be remembered that the wife of King Aenghus (the sister of St. ?nda) had Cloch?r, from that place. 1Vita S. Endei, Colgan's " Acta SS." In its present form the " ' dates-as;late Life This content downloaded from 140.203.12.206 on Thu, 8 Aug 2013 18:12:55 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions as 1380, Westropp?The Fort of Dun Aengusa in Inishmore, Aran. ? " to the name, Aran maintains the primitive title Dun," which so generally elsewhere "cathair'' A replaced by (caher). " or transitional of the "Doon Dun the Doon'ahaar," doo'haar," example " black cathair, is found; in sight of Aran, on similarly the fort of Eerish," the shoulder of Black is Caherdooneerish, and a fort near it, Head, ' a seems The of for rather late 'fort 'caher' usage Caherdoonteigusha. method, perhaps derived from the monastic forts, which again were suggested ' the word The Edmund Hogan, with his usual cathedra/ Bev. by cognate " me use let his notes from Onomasticon the kindness, forthcoming With regard has been from of Imaine, He "Dun Aengusa" the Books gives and from "D?n and MacFirbis* Lecan, Aongusay> Ballymote; Keating, " as Boderic ; and Dun-oingnso" Dun-Oengus, Genealogies O'Flaherty's " " " " In lar it is Dun Dun 1684, Engus. Ogygia." Connaught," Aengus as now, among writers found ; but John OTlaherty 1790-1820, prevailed, name be Dun in to the in 1839 only one old 1825, while locally Aonguis Go?delicum." man on Aranmore, a descendant of ? Cromwellian the family, remembered name "Dun true phonetic to S. Inn?es," according O'Donovan; Ferguson, names "Ungust" in 1853, gives and "Unguish,"1 the latter evidently ^the as Dun Eanees It is given by Haverty akin to Inn?es. in 1858 ; but had now and in is to Doon hardened "Dun Angus," 1878, usually Aingus it might though better be anglicized (3) The Plan Doon Hennessy. of Dun Aengusa. It is strange that, so far as we know, th? plan of Dun Aengusa has never a see it forms whole to whether or'has been consistent been studied modified. now attempt to carry out. Any ancient of historic building of and of fails is taue the stone this restoration, rarely to-give proof even For example, earthworks at Bathmore of those of earth.2 in forts, and in in and Lissadooneen Waterford, Kildare, Kerry, Ballyvoony Lisnagree, task we This times near Broadford, in the first case, in Clare, show that layers of earth (several two in the third) were added to raise the original structure ; baileys md outer cases. in were In added Cl^re, so closely bound many very probably rings the stone forts and Aran in evidence up with history, give frequent legend . *&;.^ "'"" It does not even devoid of local colour. is founded on older sources, though unusually but probably allude to the forts. 1Dublin notices the Pictish character of these vol.. xii., p. 95. He Magazine, University the Picts cleared out the Firbolgs of Aran-and the islands. names, but then (according to Keating) " 2 was The Grianan of Aileach, in Donegal, records of the ruins." coincides with the History in Clare, rebuilt in %QG%and 1107 ; the stone fort of Kincora, rebuilt in 674 and 937, and dismantled in 1112 (Ohrojaicont, was It was again rebuilt^ to be finally demolished levelled in 1098. S?oJoruni) / or HI*8. (Annals of the Four Masters) ; other cases will be. recalled by antiquaries. H.I.A, PROC7 VOL. XXVIII., SECT. This content downloaded from 140.203.12.206 on Thu, 8 Aug 2013 18:12:55 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions [2] 10 Proceedings of the Royal Irish Academy. of At Moghane in Clare,1 the two cahers were built across the. older walls. near the east, has been almost Langough, a rebuilt on different plan in early times. and Cahergrillaun Caherfeenagh have been rebuilt in parts2 ; and the wall of Caherdooneerish has been at least twice rebuilt, the joints made at the three periods being very apparent in the walk3 The Kerry forts, too, show unequivocal signs of addition and rebuild a After careful of Dun we believe the following views to ing. study Aengusa, :? be justifiable rebuilding. great lines of the Fig. The Dun ?Proc. R. 8 Journal Caherfeenagh. is usually I. Acad., xxvii, R# S. A. L, 1.?Plan supposed of Dun to >ave (0), p. 221. vol; xxviii., p. s Jbid,, vol. xxxi., 364, pt 6. Aengusa. consisted, for from the first, of three ; vol. xxxi.^ Cahergrillaun p. 275, * refer to pp, fetters 25, 27t This content downloaded from 140.203.12.206 on Thu, 8 Aug 2013 18:12:55 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions for Westropp?The Fort of Dun Aengusa in Inishmore, Aran. oval rings into which the sea has Such a plan is possible, warranted cut for almost the half exactly 11 their extent. fine of hill-town triple-walled but must not too was be The fortress Moghane, readily accepted. probably at first a simple oval ring-wall, like its neighbour the Dun of Eoghanacht and many others. It was next strengthened by a second ring nearly equi on the same-island, from the first, like the forts of Dun Oghil distant by on Inishere, Glenquin and others in Clare. Still later, a third wall, on the cliff, was either somewhat in plan or a crescent, abutting egg-shaped built. This was regarded as final ; anil an elaborate abattis of close-set pillar stones was made round it, extending to its foot, even where it crowned a Furmina (and probably at a far later period) a large irregular slope. Lastly to east by a low ridge, was enclosed with another wall, determined the space, of Port Murvey. the approach from the landing-places We do not defending steep or how far, the sea had cut into the hill when assert whether, seems to imply that the middle were built. O'Flaherty ring was " " on the brim the bawn of a castle," in 1684 ; but it then stood entire, like of a high cliff."1 Probably the old second wall was originally entire ; but this for the moment these works is uncertain, for the stone fort of Cahercommaun, ring and two crescent in Clare, on the edge of the walls.2 like It is strikingly Corcomroes, has a central a Dun Aengusa. The central fort is even more massive ; but it overhangs so so in its original condition is evidently far dry valley rising at both ends, as regards the plan. is possible, alternative that Another (as at namely, Dun forts of Caherlisaniska and Langough) Conor and the Clare the a ring with the outer enclosures looping in to meet on flat fields in forts found this have, however, looping only or on a or even low at shore when slopes, ridges?never high cliffs central fort was We deep Lake.3 water The beyond crescent cliff, for it is common and in America. In Clare, besides it, as at the crescent and Cahernacalla, with low there is on Ballycar a fall of the fort at Cahernacalla therefore, does not necessarily wall/ prove inland in Ireland, and indeed all over central Cahercommaun its wall. and Europe a central ring 1 of'"lar p. 75. description (ed. Hardiman), Connaught" Chorographical " 2A the three mounds of poem of Seanchan, dating about 640 (Book of Lecan, p. 17), mentions " on the fort?as this in Co. ?walled fortresses (the only triple-walled) Burren, Clare?perhaps near the fort of Caechan Boirne, Burren hills, though now included in Inchiquin. It is probably " Book of See Rights." Lake, named, perhaps, about 800 (certainly ante 1014), in the Inchiquin ser. iii., vol. vi., p. 430, for plans com vol. xxvi., p. 153, and Proc. E.I. Journal R.S.A.I., Acad., parable with that of Dun Aengusa. 3Proc. E.L Acad., vol. xxvii. (C), p. 227. 4The crescent cannot fort that in some cases distinction type is so closely akin to the promontory the existence be drawn save by regarding **Earthwork of England/' them together in of a headland iii. behind the defences. Mr. Allcroft chapter [**] This content downloaded from 140.203.12.206 on Thu, 8 Aug 2013 18:12:55 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions classes 12 Proceedings and one or more of the Royal IHsh Academy. a single crescent walls, We find Caherlismacsheedy,1 the The type is very common in England and Scotland, two the of forts complex specimen being conjoined Coldingham, crescent on a cliff in Burren. finest and most each with three walls. and Blackers " of Nunmill Devon, " Doon note We in England Hill, other typical and Errickstane.2 a few : There To select examples. at Caudebec, and near it a promontory has two stone walls built each in two that in too, is identical with a in crescent wall Cantal, Sarran, single 105 feet deep on the edge of an inland Beaulieu The fort. we Beacon, Scottish fine many on a crescent earthwork spur The camp of Bois de Eouret have sections, as in the Irish forts. Ireland. the forts of western a garth 170 feet long The fort of St. Maurice encloses cliff. The At and at some of enclosing many house-sites, as at Dun inland cliff back from the ground slopes (C?te d'Or) has also two walls ; but, unlike the Irish two crescent (E.M.) has the Eoman forts of Embury being the inland examples In France is a double masonry, the rings period. Mont Milan Aengusa. towers believed to be of the same period as the fort. It forts, it has flanking is noteworthy of their that the Irish, no less in their forts than in many later castle courts, were entirely of flanking to the advantages indifferent In Hungary of three defences.8 lies the great ring of B?ny, an earthwork crescent mounds, extending and Perm we have crescent walls are found them." works in Sweden.4 The of Dun Aengusa were all crescents from the first we and the rock for over 300 feet ; for they, their foundations, " are devoured by the Atlantic has perished with and their memorial We have no means of calculating the advance of this destruction ; Whether can never beneath In Switzerland feet along a steep bluff. and crescent ring mountain ; spurs fencing occurs in also America. type for 1700 the walls know and it may have been very slow for centuries. The fall of cliffs is nowhere uniform ; even at the same locality all depends on the jointing, the currents, and the prevailing A fort like Doon, winds. in Iraghticonor,5 1 Journal 2See Dr. Kerry, was evidently a crescent from the first ; the sea has vol. xxxi., pp. 275, 276. " in Scotland," pp. 130, 131, Coldingham Early Fortifications ; p. 206, Krrickstane ; Upper 204, Raecleuchead ; and Mr. A. R. Cademur;p. Arbory " of England," Earthwork pp. 53, 54, 59, 63, and 113. 3" Soci?t? de France," Bulletin. Tome iv., p. 311 ; vi., pp. 231, 415. Pr?historique R.S.A.I., Christison's ; p. 134, Allcioft's Rapport, Gu?bhard's and Dr. Adrien 36, 52; (1905), pp. 27, 30, (1907), pp. 11, 12. these continental of Forts forts are brought in "Ancient together " sections 8, 11, 20, with plans, &c, figs. 2, 3. Fora crescent Scandinavian Ireland," ring mur," ** Dolmens of Ireland," For Russian forts in Perm, vol. iii., p. 1133. shaped in plan, see Borlase, see "Camps Dr. A. Gu?bhard in "L'Association des Retranch?s," pour Vavancement Fran?aise " Sciences Tolmatcheff. (36th Congress, 1902), p. 3. From plans by M. Vladimir 5Described in a paper read before R.S.A.I. in July, but as yet unpublished. 1909, now printed, Tome v., p. 76. Comptes " " Enceintes Pr?historiques 4The notes on of many Rendus This content downloaded from 140.203.12.206 on Thu, 8 Aug 2013 18:12:55 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions The Fort of Dun A?ng?sa in ?nishmote. Aran. Westropp? \% run harmlessly for centuries strata, along the smooth faces of the upturned arid the fosse died out in the grassy slope above as its diggers left it, unworn, " save by the slow tooth of the sky,if At the Black Port, east from Dun from two synclinal curves, the Aengusa, we see that the headland originated worked of which were constantly into caves, eventually falling in and leaving long bays.1 The destruction of the sides and even of the outer end of the promontory is slow compared with that at the ends of the bays, and the fort between them may be very ancient, though hardly three thousand years " fancied. As we noted, Loop Head, the ancient old, as O'Donovan Leap of inner arches Cuchu?lin'' must have narrow (probably from long before A.D. 850,8 when the name first occurs)s been, in early times as at present, a high rocky islet divided by a chasm from the main The cliff, to judge from the name and legend. over at Dun for of is that only Aengusa seventy years a slab from which a man was fishing when it fell in 18373 ; but cliff falls are more usually sudden and at long intervals than persistent and gradual. fall of rock recorded So far we have only dealt with the changes made by the great forces of turn to other evidences of mutability in extensive alterations us as to how many of man. the much-needed They give warning ;now we nature by the hand features, what found extensive additions and what of plan eccentricities puzzling to be attributed to the original design. Probably of the greater outer wall; the defensive value of the forts, are not in these when, by the building abattis and middle wall was less (whether at the same time or on later works were carried out on the inner walls. felt occasion or occasions) extensive The abattis, as we noted, clung even to the foot of the old outer wall (as it and at Bally kinvarga does also at the Black Fort, at Dunnamoe,4 caher in a tract its between it and the open present divergence long Clare); leaving wall, along with the fragment The builders of wall to the north demolished and west, the old outer wall tells the story from the ridge enough. avenue to at the fort the north-east central the face of the east opposite of the materials of these bend, and also the eastern part of the second wall; an irregular line from the east end of the curve of the latter they made clearly out like a bastion, and then running in ? comparatively straight line, It joined the old outer from over 50 feet to about 15 feet from" the abattis. bowed wall at right angles, a new gateway being made at the sharp turn. been built on the surface of the rock, every trace of the demolished rather Having i Journal -R.-S.A.I., vol. xxxvi., p. 345. Ibid., vol.. xxxviii,, 3 <<0. S. Co. Galway Letters," 4 If we so consider the former 2 landward Tyrawley," edges of p. 68. the fosse, p. 2i?. (ms., R. I. Acad., H d. 3.), 249. and outwork curious wall-loops Caesar Otway shown by the Rev. and along the at the gangway in his plan, 1841, "?Erris' and This content downloaded from 140.203.12.206 on Thu, 8 Aug 2013 18:12:55 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions 14Proceedings was walls easily removed. of theRoyal Irish Academy^ The north-western reach of the old outer wall was now useless, and, owing to the reach of the second wall being retained, so it was left a it was not required for material, problem (like that standing, of the open space to the north inside the abattis) hitherto It unexplained. extends bastion. not did middle from near P?trie curve in O'Donovan's It ended abruptly ring. So far as can be seen, this is the true ridge.1 and of the bare the wall the present cliff to the ridge nearly opposite the seeming it to be an annexe, as at Dun Conor ; but th? end supposed nor was there any connecting wall from it to the inward, and to the south-east space, so regularly curving the abattis, now devoid of pillars. The work Fig. to open a larger court beside of the second wall was retained done exposed time, as now, near the rock of its existence explanation side, on the inner fort. the turn, between was probably 2. central the north-east fort, while part to keep the middle rampart, at its most from the level of the hill-top, within range of missiles seem to been have little used the Irish in Arrows by towering warfare ; spears were too scarce to throw, but the second wall, barely 30 feet from the citadel, could be swept by stones slung or even thrown from the wall of the latter. itself could be used as an The fragment commanding extra line of defence till the enemy had struggled with loss and great difficulty through the jagged 1 C. C. Babbington thought defences requisite." additional " and close-set " they were Archaeologia built " pillars where Cambrensis, round its base. the slope of the ground iv?, ser. iii. vol. This content downloaded from 140.203.12.206 on Thu, 8 Aug 2013 18:12:55 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions seemed to render The Fort Westropp? of Dun Aengusa in Inishmore, Aran. 15 Till June, 1904,1 had on four previous visits regarded the sharp curve of the middle wall as a bastion, and the waving part from it to the north-east I then compared bend amere wanton it with O'Donoy?n's and irregularity. so and found as these inaccurate Petrie's to the this and outer wall ?plans, that I was led to reconsider the whole It is evident that all question. " to the antiquaries who came to this fort hurried citadel," after noting the chevaux de frise and outer walls to the west and south-east (the two lines of a at most casual glance, and the defaced by, with passing approach), even in plans they did not lay down its Hence showed but it as a curve. I found Then when line, remarkably irregular " evidence for the occurrence of the "bastion in 1878, the need of a solution unimposing middle wall. of the problem became evident. I accordingly it a few months re-examined with and Boni and of the strip realized the meaning later, others, Signor a third without After pillars along its base. complete and leisurely exami nation, made last August, I offer this solution of the problem of the middle walls.1 seem to have required no modification, fort might but such took The to inside its to the ope, leading certainly place. wall, nothing, which Mr. Babbington noted2 as closed by later work, the joints north-west, beside the gate, noted by Mr. P. J. Lynch, and a line of blocks to the south of the gateway, outside the face of the present wall, all imply considerable The central in early times. selection of the site (apart from the question of where the cliff then shows much in and skill the earliest fort-builders. The existed) forethought a few feet high, its faces evidently inner ring occupies a natural platform, The outer wards were strengthened scarped artificially. against attack by alterations The on the north-western and north the upper and lower ridges, the middle, eastern, and it and the outer wall on the eastern sides, towards the most point of attack?Portmurvey. in that bay, or coming from the Kilronan Landing had to struggle up a long reach of broken crag, and probable slippery gate, or through path to the north-east in face of a lofty wall. AH these surmounted, harbours, an enemy either up the narrow the hedge of jagged stone the central citadel, once spikes over 18 feet high on its ridge, manned by desperate men, had still to be cannot endorse Mr. Burke's that the middle We court captured. suggestion3 was left clear for "military manoeuvres"; it was " in this paragraph may 11 hope the." personal element for the theories clear to all. responsibility 2 " Arch vol. iv., ser. iii., p, 96, ologia Cambrensis," 3" gfouth Isles of Aran," pt 16, possibly be condoned, filled with as making the This content downloaded from 140.203.12.206 on Thu, 8 Aug 2013 18:12:55 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions huts origin of of and 16 Proceedings of theRoyal Irish Academy. clay and wattles which have left no trace.1 The fort seems to have had no traverses which, were attack much feared, should have been made especially across the great outer garth, a most suitable position occurring at the upper ridge. The weakest water-supply; the monastic ring in 1086.2 of water As to in Dun Aengusa and its congeners was lack of does not seem to have been very probable, though fort of Tulla was blockaded and nearly reduced for want point and blockade the in the outer wall was described the perfect gate features, before 1870 by Lord Dunraven wall I ; the northern gate of the middle noted as a "creepy door" in 1878, and dimly recall its narrow ope under The perfect gate of the inner ring was noted by O'Donovan large stones. and many writers, from 1839 to 1878, and its outer face sketched roughly by P?trie in 1821, and most I made a camera in 1859. by Burton accurately sketch of the inside in 1878.3 Miss Stokes (or Lord Dunraven) implies that it had collapsed,4 but the gate now standing is the one sketched in 1859 and It is strange that Lord Dunraven 1878. did not secure photographs of these most and characteristic survived to features, but they fortunately interesting be photographed The others. broken in the middle the by wall, gates double sections or terraces of the two outer ramparts, and the fragment and the three sections of the citadel wall,are all attested by several writers; so is " " blind ope the inside to the north-west of the latter. The steps near this ope, and the traces of the terraces, and the steps to the north of the inner " The only features not named before the " restoration gate, were recorded. are the double the flight of steps north-west. O'Donovan gateway was however, most entirely defaced, to the south of the gate, and the upper flight to mentions that the wall to the south of the and it was even a shapeless heap been recorded) have (and may probable of steps firmly set parts of the two flights were found in the debris, which covered both and their the upper long in 1878. that It is, the lower fallen banquette blocks and the " 1 in his "Introduction to Grose's of Ireland" Ledwich, "Antiquities (1807), was probably he of where Dun houses having been of wood have long since says right p. iv, "The Aengus, We find in 1162 that eighty houses had to be removed when the fort of Cashel an disappeared." was Urlair at the church rebuilt of Derry Hua Lochliunn and Flathbertus by Murcheartach the coarb of St. Columba. OBrolchan,. 2'*Anale0ta vol. nan espoc xv.-xviii. Tulla is Bollandiniana," xvii., p. 149, chapters in this account, translated "Collis in "the distriot of Lumbrecia," Luimneach Episcoporum" " or Limerick under which forms the editor could not identify the places. Limbricensis," 8 See The stonework in this is easily recognizable in a recent photograph. p. 30, infra. 4 "Notes on Irish Architecture," vol i., p. 4, implies that the gateway had "shared the fate of the rest of the structure." The drawing of the outer face by Burton, melancholy and my camera sketch of the inner face, show that as it stood in 1878 so it still remains. Some who had not seen the fort before its restoration, of the on no better than alleged the rebuilding gate *' authority " Punraven's words. This content downloaded from 140.203.12.206 on Thu, 8 Aug 2013 18:12:55 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions Fort of Dun Aengusa in Inishmore, Aran. Westropp?The 17 in 1854, as in 1878. Such firm-set bottom steps often survive the wall Two such flights wefre recently and the upper steps. uncovered by us in more in we two and find Caherminaun. There is one in Ballyshanny c?her, In Dunoghil the remains of two such flights fort, in Clare. Caherfeenagh base were not restored level (its other garth), the other in 1884-5, one to the north of the gateway, at the ground " " in the then built steps are used in the circular thing above joints, evidently The steps in Dun south-east the stair. In the Black Fort near of two unrestored remains are sloping the huts. sidelong flights are exactly The like the untouched Aenghus examples. the sunken in of the about the way rampart supposed top allegations " of 1839, the rest on a mistaken internal Letter reading of O'Donovan's " in his letter the banquette inside the rampart. division meaning of chert and flint have been As to the age of the fort, worked implements one probably in it, and also bronze ornaments, later than the fifth small sharp masonry The comparatively century. gives less impression of well-marked the and than batter, age large blocks, (as a rule) lower walls on found on the forts wall are not in Mayo, Clare, and Oalway. The blocks of the as those in the ramparts of Moghane as weather-worn and the so It is hard to believe forts on Kerry Head. that walls the mainland Cahercarbery slightly battered age as they stand ; but the inception of the fort the material The may date far back in the past. of its the evident of the tops chevaux de frise, with channelling pillars, is that the walls very early; but we have seen reason to believe probably have been extensively rebuilt in the past ; and perhaps this was done when and the repairs 1884. are of vast of collection were required, on several occasions, long before the restoration of of the sea give us no measure of its age. We have no reason were to assert that its circles either complete It rings or crescents at first. on a or have stood Dun have been built may hill-side, (like Oghil) (like The inroads Cahercommaun), cliff stood much to an already cliff, though, of course, the adapted existing in the earlier times. farther southwards Its advanced plan a from up gradually though we agree with simple beginning, may have grown Dr. Gu?bhard2 that its skilful of builders construction, terraces, and steps imply the work and to guide them ; but these traditions experienced long masons were probably rebuilders ; and the original fort may with accomplished have been as rude and simple as some of the ring-walls of Clare and Kerry. " 1" Dr. Colley March. Proc. Soc. Ant., London, vol. xv., Age of Dun Aenghus " 2 La structure Pr?hist. relativement 1907, iii., Autun, Congres compliqu?e, ? une humanit? attribuable p. 998. d?j? passablement ?loign?e de ses origines," $.1.4. PKOC, VOL. XXVUI. SCOT. ?. [8J This content downloaded from 140.203.12.206 on Thu, 8 Aug 2013 18:12:55 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions aer. ii., p. 226. certainement 18 Proceedings of the Royal Ifish Academy. (4) Records of its Features.1 the fort as it stands at present, we must examine, in describing than above, the record of its features before 1883. The reference " " are as follows :?P, Dr. George letters Architecture P?trie, Military "Ordnance Survey Letters," 1839; (1821 and 1858) ; O'D, John O'Donovan, "Dublin John F} Sir Samuel Ferguson, 1852; W, University Magazine," Before more detail ante 1854; C, Most Rev. Dr. George "Supplement," Conroy, ante 1870; D, Lord Dunraven, of "Aran of St. Enda," Bishop Ardagh, on Irish Architecture," ante in "Notes writer IB, anonymous 1875; " Irish Builder," notes, 1877 ; TW, notes and sketches taken 1878. Windele, Inner Fort. Its rising the above writers. " in top." Views TW, stepstones to Stair TW. north-east.?F, face), Gateway.?Allinverted steps." 1857 Lintels,?O'D "like ;W, F.W. Burton, (outer face), " On the right are the ; (inner remains of a flight." Terraces??P C, (map); F, "lower banquette"; " " " now no on east the side trace9> ; "; W, ; banquettes" D, banquette " North-west F C 01) D ; ; ; ; (? TW, TW, nearly gone." Ope.?2 (map) ; " " " " one or two a hole "). Stairs next Ope.?P, and map ;F, traces of ; C, " " " a succession of stairs stairs>? ;W, in three ;TW, slopes or steps." Wall and and map; TW and D sections.?P sketch. ; O'D; F; C; photographs Stone Platform.?P (map) ; TW (sketch plan). Middle Walls, &c. Gate, P; D ;TW, North-east TW, Gate.?O'D, "creepy door." to thinks it ii.?O'D (he modern); leading Gateways.?Worth-west pillars very steep/' Terrace.?P P (and map); O'D; D "gaps like doors." North Gate.? "much destroyed"; Passage "road P; F; TW, through C; D; TW. Feagment.? (and map); W; (and photograph); Wilde in "Lough Comb"; TW " 1The Irish terms a stone wall (Togail Troi) ; of forts are?" Murelodh applied to the features " *' a wall of earth or stone (Mesca TJlad and many fosse ; other early works), Cladh," Mur,'* ** " " the garth or enclosure flat summit of a fort of the mote type ; Iarom," ; Fordorus," Tulchin," " used for a lintel ; **Aurlann," the slope before that the gate in the outer enclosure ; Fordorus," ' ' " " " a gate ; " Tairsech," its threshold the porch of ; Aursa," a jamb ; Aurduine," gate ; Dorus," *' or a porter's in the 'bawn' the and a gate, "Erdam," ; Bodun," lodge (as Mayo forts) Kerry * the green, or game-field, before the the "Faitche," "Ithla," haggard'enclosure; cattle-yard; " " The the palisade or abattis. Sonnach,*' ii., p. 408, for an fort; Aurla.") (See Silva Gadelica " " ** are given infra. of Ancient See also Dr. Joyce, Social History references Sonnach Ireland," " in the introduction and Customs of the Ancient E. O'Curry, Manners vol. ii., pp. 34, 60. Irish," Sullivan, p. 107. by Professor s of its steps and terraces the good preservation in his notes on Dun Oghil, contrasts O'Donovan, of those of the other forts on Aranmore with the dilapidation (0. S. L., p. .239). This content downloaded from 140.203.12.206 on Thu, 8 Aug 2013 18:12:55 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions Fort of Dun Aengusa in Inishmore^ Aran. Wkstropp?The "Terrace Terrace.?V, plan). writers (save Ledwich, John O Flaherty in 1684. and (sketch Abattis.?All Eoderic 19 half its height" (and map). since and O'Flaherty, Windele) Outer Wall. Wall.?P (and map); O'D ; D. (map and photograph) " Two sections.?O'D. wall (and sketch). Gateway.?D. over or only shown in maps by most writers. in 1909. (5) The Fort two most The by a great stone by Dun Aengusa, ; TW, "old tumbled This wall is passed are each crowned of Inishmore conspicuous high grounds over western hill to the feet above the sea, 300 fort, rising the eastern by the Dun of Oghil, the ridge rising over 400 the sea. As we pass round the shoulder of the Oghil plateau the mass of Dun Aengusa its three great presents a most imposing appearance, to the tiers of walls at the fall of the steep slopes being fully visible " " Blind We Sound and Portmurvey. ascend the hill past the fuchsias and low trees at Kilmurvey their the low crag cliffs with House, passing feet above full of sweet, clear water : cross the craggy fields (their crannies wild of sweet and hartstongue roses, cranesbills, ferns, small, and dewberries) and gain a view of stately and ever widening spacious and ness, along the dark southern cliffs, out to Clare, and even to Kerry, across the bay of Galway. next reach a low ridge of crag northward We wells of maidenhair which has been with a thick rampart (unlike the tottering field-walls the ambit of the great fortress or "town": " though high the situation of the cathair, not easy is its storming methinks . . if you come to the southern side/'1 strengthened around), and enter Eampart.?The wall is for the most part greatly levelled and to from 10 15 about where feet better it shows but, wide; spread preserved, two faces of well-laid blocks (many of fair size, 2 to 3 feet long, and 18 to 20 inches thick), being usually 6 or 7 feet thick from face to face ; it follows Outer a low, irregular ridge about 5 or 6 feet high, rarely This wall has been passed by in silence by most writers, but is, when higher. a most realized, adjunct of the upper fort, being over 2000 feet imposing Its garth is over 1250 feet long by the long in its wavy, irregular course. cliff edge, 1174 feet across the clear garth east and west, and 650 feet deep along its eastern reach It is usually face of the abattis north and south. found past the eastern in heaps 3 to 4 feet high, and is 8 feet thick near the sea, and until we turn 1 " Caithreimh " Conghail Clairinghnigh (ed P. M. Mac Sweeney), p. 121. [8*3 This content downloaded from 140.203.12.206 on Thu, 8 Aug 2013 18:12:55 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions 20 Proceedings up the slope, where east when compared of the Royal Irish Academy. The masonry is coarser to the preserved. To the walls. and the inner the upper reaches it is better with north, we find its most interesting first described by Lord Dunraven, 3 feet high (over the debris), with the nearly perfect feature, gateway, and as wide 4 feet before 1875, being a lintel 9 feet long. This is virtually 49 inches wide above, but only 45 inches it to measure a The height, as now cleared, block at the base. below, owing to projecting is 4 feet 10 inches to the east and 4 feet to the west, being on a steep, The wall is 6 feet 7 inches to 7 feet thick on top, and nearly ridgy slope. correct, as we found 8 feet at the base, the passage being covered by a huge inner lintel, 8 feet 4 inches long, 6 to 10 inches thick, and 15 inches deep and two similar outer lintels. The space between them and the inner one is covered by short " which is also the case in the north gate of the inner wall, cross-bearers," it and is a common From in souterrains, feature but rare in gateways. a to westward raised the wall has been greatly and unnecessarily rebuilt, level top, about 5 feet high, till we reach the upper ridge ; there it has been repaired with a terrace, and is 2 or 3 feet higher. The ridge crosses it, and is from 12 to 18 feet high. OUTER GATE. WAtl, NORTH Fig. O'Donovan untouched wall. notes Aengusa, Outer Gate. it had two sections. They are not apparent in the a It (very likely) had terrace, though none appeared (so far in 1878. He was fond of asserting at that time (it was very as I remember) early in his field-work) that 3.?Dun that the sections in fort-walls were to provide another solid face against the enemy when the walls were sapped and fell in a siege. Most of the succeeding writers have adopted that view. We have, however, no so of in elaborate in those early times; Ireland suggestion siege-work and I believe the system was adopted rather to allow the more equal settle the dry-stone of any great thickness, naturally when walls, which, if the filling be small) bulge out, and even burst the faces of the (especially wall. reason was Another that the terraces and outer sections possible ment of This content downloaded from 140.203.12.206 on Thu, 8 Aug 2013 18:12:55 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions Fort of Dun Aengusa in Inishmore, Ar an. Westropp?The were to added occur the first in non-terraced and forts lowest bears wall out ; but the fact the view that that such it was 2l sections to prevent or for escalade in assault, or blockade?-not bulging; battering mining?was or triple ?f the danger double fort-dwellers. Walls the besetting early are Dun is triple well authenticated forts. sections in dry-stone Aengusa so are the Black Fort, Dun in the citadel (double in all the other walls); in Mayo;1 while in Clare, and Caher na Spungaun Conor, Ballykinvarga double walls occur at Dun Onaght and Dun Moher in the Aran Isles ;Lower of aliaban and Caheridoula the fort Caherscrebeen, upper Bally Caherbullog, in Clare; Bally lin Caher in Limerick; and the forts of Dunbeg (Fahan) and in the Cahercarberys in Kerry.2 Of these, the two last examples were so constructed down to the foundation, Clare and the Cahercarberys a defended and evidently The enclosure the others are similar. possibly or osiers, and clay, for it is noticeable that while number of huts of wattles, both north-west of Mayo, Clare, and west in afforded Aran is only for their existence by Dun Conor Kerry, evidence and the Black Fort. There were thickets of scrub (dwarf oak, &c.) at Oghil, " near the shore the place (Eochoill, ?ak grove) and a wood Leamchoill/'3 as that below named in the "Life of St. Enda," it, twigs and showing stone huts branches We have are common could be procured a historic mention in the forts rocks.4 in ancient times even on these storm-swept " " so the dun outside of a dun and the houses ;5 and indeed so late as 1675, in a deed where the caher of the in Burren, the fine existing of Cahermacna?ghten O'Davorens, ring-wall with the group of houses in and around the caher, is fully described.6 late as 1014 was struck by "sever?llong in Dun at Ledwich, Aengusa. slopewise against any assault," careful his hearsay and warped and the usually account, John O'Flaherty, to note this striking John Windele, failed alone, since that time, have The stones Abattis.?In 1684 Roderie O'Flaherty erected 1Mr. Hubert Hollywood. 2Walls T. Knox kindly gave me notes and a section of this fort : it is at Bushmount, near and Casteouvasson sections occur in French forts in the Alpes Maritimes?e.g. " See tome iii., p. 146, by Dr. Adrien G?ebhard de France," Soc. Pr?hist ; and l'Association the volume of the "Congr?s for 1905, p. 48 ; also "-Comptes Rendus'de Pr?historique" des Sciences," xxxiii. pour l'avancement 1904). (Session of " " 3 This is that it is not a name to be a mistake for Eochoill ; but there is no evidence alleged the Castelars of three in Var. which became extinct on the destruction of the trees or bushes. 4 The Grant of the Aran Isles of 1586 in the Patent Rolls reserves " and great trees," minerals, " " a conventional We cannot, however, saving great hawks to the Queen. regard this as more than are even named by John oak groves Traces of "druidical" ignorant of the islands. by people and in Aran. He found fir, pine, and oak in the peat (? submerged), -1825, as existing O'Flaherty, wild ash and hazel on the crags. heard of dwarf oak scrub and hazels near Dun Oghil O'Donovan . . . (0. S. L., p. 230). $" Annals of the Four Masters." 6 vol. i. parish, Copy in the 0. S. Letters, County Clare, Rathborney This content downloaded from 140.203.12.206 on Thu, 8 Aug 2013 18:12:55 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions 22Proceedings of the ?oyal ?rish Academy. feature of the- fortress. The consists abattis of a closely middle the whole set mass of little in a band walls pillars, usually 3 to 4 feet high, girding and northern the north-west from 30 to 80 feet wide, more open between to and the the to north-west east, at which impassable gates, but nearly a latter side they are set with wonderful steep rock-slope below the pains up The tops of the pillars, as noted by Dr. Colley March,1 are greatly rampart. and give a worn and furrowed by the weather, like those at Ballykinvarga, more convincing proof of age than is afforded by the facing of the wall, which when raised from the is less fretted, though probably already weather-worn crag ; for in many forts on the mainland We on faces embedded in the wall. similar evidence crosses of century Aengusa did to the twelfth of Dysert not afford O'Dea mich seen evidence of such wear must that bear in mind, however, on the upper parts of sculptured century ; and the base of the twelfth is found of weather-wear the ninth cross we have is also convenient rock The deeply fretted. to form sockets crannies at Dun for the ; nor was as were found at the Black Fort the soil sufficiently deep pillars to fix in lean them at cases, ; so, many they simply against (as Ballykinvarga) There confusion.2 is no outer kerbing each other or fall over in picturesque or the somewhat similar or later annexe to the abattis, as at Ballykinvarga fort at Mohne in the Baltic ; nor, like former, have they lesser spikes the side of a boot) ; to cut through when he O'Donovan exaggerates the the pillars (spikes sharp enough they are jagged and sharp indeed. " writes that many of them are so sharp that, if one fell against them, they " run to pass, even when him through would ; but they are very perilous in act of He picturesquely undefended. compares them to an army petrified between but attack.3 The band measures and over 200 feet more gate, The feature Britain patches about 700 feet from the west to the north-east from it to the cliff eastward. is very rare ; it occurs at Dun Aengusa, the Black Fort, and fort in Mayo, and was once found at Dunnamoe promontory Ballykinvarga, in Belmullet.4 In Great the pillars from which were used for house-building of such stones are set to form obstacles at the more 1" Loe. cit., vol. xv., ser. ii., p. 226. 2 See Plate I., fig. 2 ; and Plate III., fig. 1. 3Mr. Burke chooses the less dignified and rather misleading simile of "almonds for the stones are not set out apart as drawn by Cheyne. These inaccurate views that they were tombstones of those buried round the fort; noted by Mr. Wakeman, that they were to protect cattle from slingers. " * Journal 182 ; Trotter's in Ireland," vol. xix. (consec.),p. Walks R.S.A.I., " stone stakes of great size and height." Rev. Caesar Otway calls them says " " more numerous remembered them and much than in 1841 ; but they had larger * for sills and lintels." See Erris and Tyrawley," p. 68. This content downloaded from 140.203.12.206 on Thu, 8 Aug 2013 18:12:55 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions accessible in a pudding," led to the theory or by Dr. March, pp. 503, 504. He that O'Donovan " been removed Westropp-?The Fort of Dun Aengusa in Inishmore, Aran. 23 to the forts of Pen Caer Helen inWales1 and Cademuir and Dreva approaches in Scotland.2 of pillars of similar intent occurred Rows in the destroyed fort of Cap Sizun in France,3 two Swiss forts near Laufen, Berne,4 and the " " of Mohne in Russia.5 Bauerberge Irish scholars for mention where could help archaeology by searching in our early literature a feature. It could, however, hardly be expected that of such our older writers seem to pass over our countless dolmens without of so rare a feature confined to four notice, they would have preserved mention of our cathairs. It is, however, very probable that a similar timber defence " " surrounded many of our forts, and was called a sonnach ; it may have filled those narrow, flat spaces inside the outer rings which gird some earth and Lisheencroneen, in Corcavaskin; and it originated forts, like Doonaghbwee " " " the place-names a Lisatunna and To take few from Sonnagh."6 examples : there is mention ancient works of two mythical forts ; one made by the divine builder Aenghus, son of the Daghda (already noted),7 "with lofty " sonna seven on an with walls and iron sonnach each ; another, (stockades) was pressed to fence the fort of Howth, mur.*98 When Cuchullin he said : " A heap of spears closes it for me." He evidently to compared his warriors an abattis.9 Aedh Gnaire, King of Connaught, in the sixth century, built a new house in a dun, and, " outside all, a sonnach of red oak round about his dun."10 The breaking of such a palisade to admit the king's spear, held is alleged to have caused the quarrel of the Ardrigh Diarmaid lengthways, with St, Ruadhan, the cursing of Tara, and its desertion. "The Voyage of the Hui Corra," a tenth-century island romance, tells us of yet another mythical " a a on with sonnach brazen round and brazen net the dun, it, spread spikes of spiked-wire outside."11 It is as curious to find so early a foreshadowing entanglements as of another modern invention, where the Mabinogion 1 ser, iv., vol. xii.,, p. 345; of Ireland," Forts and "Ancient Cambrensis," "Archaeologia 6. 2" like Dun Conor; in Scotland," pp. 225, 226*. Dreva has a side-annexe Early Fortifications botli are in Peebles. " " 3For Ancient Forts series iv., vol. ii., p. 287 ; and Cambrensis," Cap Sizun, ~see Archaeologia of Ireland," fig. 4. 4 "Dictionnaire tome i., p. 122. de la Gaule, Epoque Celtique," Arch?ologique " 5 of Ireland," vol. iii., p. 1130. Dolmens Borlase, 6 There in Connaught, and four named are a dozen called "Sonnach," townlands chiefly it is far from uncommon. and compounds ; but in field-names Lissatunny " i" Silva Gadelica," Translated ii., p. 3. by S. H. O'Grady, Agallamh." Journal Chariot of Cuchullin" "The 8Lebor na hUidre, (Siabar charpat Conculaind), Fairy fig. ser. iv., vol. i., vol. xi. (consec), R.S.A.I., ? "Kevue vol. viii. (1887), p. Celtique," " The 10" Silva vol. ii., p. 70, Gadelica," . ." " Revue vol. xiv. (1893), p. Celtique," p. 387, 65. copy circa 1106. Story of Aedh Baclamh." of the Hui 47, "Voyage Corra, ".ante 1100. This content downloaded from 140.203.12.206 on Thu, 8 Aug 2013 18:12:55 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions of theRoyal Irish Academy. 24 Proceedings flask the wonderful describes that kept hot drinks warm its non-magical based usually and cold drinks on cool. surroundings fiction, however, " " of not; evident that spikes, if stone, brass," or things seen/' and it is " iron," at least of wood, girt many a fort in ancient Ireland. has been removed for a short distance at each The abattis of Dun Aengusa into the sea below. end by idlers who love to hurl stones down the precipice Old 80 feet long through the pillars to is, as we noted, an avenue nearly to that at it is similar the north-east ancient, being probably gateway; of all the cliff-edge overlooked the accessibility O'Donovan Ballykinvarga. There No work to give access to the sea-face.1 it a modern supposed former lie to the north and north-western the (as we "gaps"-; tried to prove) is in the later reach of wall; the latter was a shapeless gap, even to regard such an It is not necessary with no trace of piers, in 1878. when he avenues in ancient, but more peaceful, times later than the actual of the fort. The gangways fosses at Doon foundation left in the rock-cut the Firbolg) and Fort2 (probably the reputed seat of the brother of Aenghus near show that the old fort-dwellers little regarded this Lisduff, Kilkee, avenue as made of their defence. This was not from thoughtlessness weakening " <f in early times ; for in the Book of Leinster the danger was noticed. ." It a is peril to be upon the fort unfortified ; and the shout of the person in its door that has conquered it."3 The only fairly defensible gateway of an Irish undoubted fort known entrance The to me was is at Dunbeg in Kerry; too, at Dunnamoe, perhaps, capable of more than mere passive resistance.4 the Fragment.?To the north and west of the central fort is a fragment I of the old outer wall. It is 7 feet 6 inches thick and about the (as believe) same height at the east end, and is about 250 feet long with a terrace 4J feet It lies 54 feet from the middle wall at that end, but high and wide. to to within 20 it feet the west. It is levelled near the approaches entirely cliff and from the upper is very low. ridge to the north-east gate, while much of its western reach The Middle Wall.?The eastern part was the old outer wall, evidently and the western, from the bastion one. the older middle The westward, an was intermediate is It terraced and varies part afterthought. throughout much in height, being from 5 or 6 feet at the north-east to nearly 12 feet high " " at the upper ridge. In 1878 1 " 0. S.Letters," p. 213. 2Journal R.S.A.I,, yol. xxv?., 3 " Book of p. 37. Leinster," 4Miss St?kes notes the advance long reaches of the terrace were but no p. 126. implied by the gateways forts (" Christian Architecture of Ireland," p, 26). : some Irish ones have lining sl^l?s. gateways British extant, of Irish Perhaps over the gaps in stone-forts the. " gaps" had wooden This content downloaded from 140.203.12.206 on Thu, 8 Aug 2013 18:12:55 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions Fort of Dun Aengusa in Inishmore, Aran. Westropp?The *V OTNAEN?UM - THEFRAGMENT 3 '?.' OUTERWALL vm, Fig. Jt.I.A. PEOO., 4.-^Dun VOL, XXVIII., Aengusa. Sections of. the 'Walls. SECT. C, This content downloaded from 140.203.12.206 on Thu, 8 Aug 2013 18:12:55 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions 25 Irish of the Rayai 26 Proceedings Academy. gate was nearly buried in fallen stones, so that one could The hardly creep under its lintels ; and the other gates were shapeless gaps. to the east, but bulge in and out, showing traces of walls show little batter The north steps. in every reach. Like the inner citadel, the masonry long periods of settlement is of good and at times fairly large blocks, largest at the north gate, the joints The sections next the sea have been little altered. It packed with spawls. line to the cliff, which in an unusually perhaps straight implies even when first built it ran to an earlier edge of the precipice farther a to note similar curved two is with It to the south. wall, interesting gates runs that corner as at Dun Aengusa, north, and at the north-east turning an to a sea-cliff^ at in almost line and running straight abruptly starts link-wall from in Sussex.1 the eastern The Seafprt part a little an abrupt to the south of the corner gate. bend with The to the is 4 latter feet 9 inches wide (4 8 feet 6 inches in O'Donovan's letter), the wall being feet 2 inches thick, and the lower little, varying From it the gate of the citadel is seen three feet of the jambs are ancient. 235 feet The and about away. space between the walls at the cliff facing a the same (234 feet), and is 240 feet at the middle of the edge is practically The abattis, which clings to the foot of the.old wall, curves out east section. from the "link," and is about 60 feet out from the "bastion." The older some 10 feet in advance of the present one at gate was probably " on plan, p. 10.) the steep avenue and slope. ( "h runs in a wavy line3 shown as wall from the the Westward gate regular in so P?trie and the two older sketch-plans and in (of O'Donovan), reproduced even and Dunraven. Modern th? maps used by Babbington, Haverty, steps north-east side of the gate ; an inward curve 50 to 70 feet westward; the north gate (g) at 161 feet. as in 1878. It is 4 feet 3 inches wide and high outside, to the ends of the terrace at either ascend is found from about is perfect now are over in the passage. over 6 feet wide Some of the outer jamb-stones 4 feet long anda foot thick. Inside, the piers being on a slope, are (like the outer gate) of different heights (3 feet 2 inches to 3 feet 11 inches). The is 5 feet 2 inches deep, covered (like the outer gate) with three passage This the inner over 6 feet long and 10 inches to 14 inches thick ; the outer 5 inches long and 8 to 9 inches thick. The width inside is most lintels, 5 feet unusual, and probably had a narrowing pier which had fallen or was ignorantly 1 vol. xlii., parti., in Sussex," Forts p. 32, and plate vi. "Hill Archaeologia, by Col. A. H. Fox. 2The outer wall of Tre Ceiri inWales is as irregular and, like the " link-wall," is terraced, but the as at in the Welsh Cashlaun and other rock-forts, in the fort, Gar, Langough, irregularity originates runs on an unimpeded contour of the ground, while that of Dun Aengusa floor of crag, the more Lane regular reaches of the inner walls being alone on the rock ridges. This content downloaded from 140.203.12.206 on Thu, 8 Aug 2013 18:12:55 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions Fort of Dun Aengusa k inishmore, Aran. WkstropP?The removed was by the restorers rebuilt above them, the two outer between in 1884. and two lintels and cracked This the lintels when 27 the wall were inserted. The space stone props the inner one is covered by cross-bearers. to verify this feature ; but (like the outer gate) My notes of 1878 are too vague is 6 feet high ; and the correct. it is possibly The terrace at this point a little curve at the west pier of the outer ope. The outer wall makes a to it otherwise fine inner lintel of this gate probably belonged predecessor; of the citadel are, of very poor construction is, and indeed the other gateways forts. The several of the Mayo, Clare, and Kerry compared with of and poor, small blocks of the side-jambs give the gateways irregularity account and a somewhat for Dun Aengusa and late appearance, quite ragged when the complete ruin of all those of OUTER_WORTH the other the islands. forts of CATEfPtlDOti WALL. Fio. tMNER Westward <+ 5. from this, at the upper ridge, the wall makes a curve like a bastion, and meets Inside they, with their terraces, the older portion nearly at right angles (/). on crown of the ridge, at 83 feet meet in another practically the right angle from the inner west pier of the gateway. the junction with This is evidently runs thence, in a wall, which equi regular curve, practically from 30 has been demolished to the wall to where central it feet) (27 the cliff. The terrace at the sharp bend is 4 feet high and 20 inches on the " link," and 3 feet on the old wall, which is 7 feet thick and the old second distant near wide in This bend appears being from 3 to 4 feet thick. camera sketches of 1878,1 and probably in Dunraven's photographs. It is shown in At 54J feet from the bend is the gap of another gate (e). Dunraven's and seems then to have had the foundations third photograph,2 high, the one of my outer of piers. The probable section 1 See continuation p. 40. has been as entirely - See Plate 11., removed to the east tig. 2. [4*] This content downloaded from 140.203.12.206 on Thu, 8 Aug 2013 18:12:55 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions of the Royal Irish Academy. 28Proceedings of the fort as at the ends near the clifK and west by 200 feet north and This is about 400 enclosure south, but was probably feet east at first very much larger. fine early citadel has, as a rule, nearly monopolized before 1880 of all antiquaries and visitors ; so the descriptions the attention are fairly satisfactory. it describe We must, however, fully once again. about the this let us first examine what O'Donovan1 wrote Before doing The Fort.?This Inner ramparts, which internal division 4 feet 5 inches that the misunderstood. He writes has been thoroughly is 3 feet 4 inches thick, the central 5 feet, and the external " are The two external divisions thick; total, 12 feet 9 inches. here raised to the height of 18 feet; but the internal division is... 7 feet high.... I find in all the other forts that the internal division 4 feet is generally lower than the other two/' F. This was understood Lord W. Dunraven,2 by Wakeman,3 myself, and others* to imply that the central 1"Ordnance Co. Galway, p. 205. Survey Letters," " 2 Notes on Irish Architecture,'' vol. i., p. 4. Dunraven, 3 " Traces of tlie Elder Faiths of Ireland" (Colonel Wood-Martin, vol. i., p. 316. It has /\ steps, which do not occur in Dun Conor, some section of the wall view, 1902); Wakeman's huts all over the thirty-four area, and the sunken way round the wall, all incorrect. *As corrigenda to my own Soc. Ant., errors, see Journal Boy. lr., vol. " Ancient Forts of Ireland," section 81, Handbooks, ii., p. 66, and vi., p. 73. " Trans. R.I. Acad., vol. xxxi., Dr. Christison, in p. 692. Early Fortifications is also misled non-occurrence 0*Donovan's The of by language. equivocal or at Dim Aengusa untouched itself in 1878, should have kept stone-fort, mistaken interpretation. xxv., p. 258, and its and the same essay in of Scotland," p. 151, a sunken way in any rne at This content downloaded from 140.203.12.206 on Thu, 8 Aug 2013 18:12:55 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions least from this The Fort Westropp? ofDun Aengusa Was 11 feet lower than the others. Wakeman %n Iniskmore, Aran. went so far as to draw an ideal Conor with a sunken way round the top. for having obliterated this interesting feature, that the wall had had an inner section till confronted of Dun restoration the restorers believe Dunraven This I sketched feature 29 Some and with censured refused the to third and well (which remember) photograph. account in 1904, when I saw that by to reconsider O'Donovan's " the banquette, the "internal division he meant being indeed the true inner removes of his further statement the which section, inconsistency apparent first led me 4 feet lower the section were of equal height, and explains his allusion to in all the other forts which have than the summit that the two. outer divisions describes. exactly as O'Donovan or 1 a to 7), but is usually to has 5, (usually 1 slight batter but rose It is 12 to 13 feet high at present, and bulged out. distorted in parts to 18 feet high in 1839; resting on a low, and evidently scarped, or 4 feet high, all round which, when covered by debris, may ledge of rock, 3 the outer walls behind banquettes The rampart The third Dunraven old height to 18 feet. photograph, of in 1878, show two in and 1847, my camera sketches Cheyne's the north-west that a large patch of the facing opposite gate had fallen, a I in 1878. and condition face The inside recollect this second ; showing have the brought view Mr. outer section middle) had only one face, with filling between The but the latter had two faces. section; the lower it and inner the next sections (or were 4 to 7 feet high. The upper is, I think, a modern were as 4 outer the sections feet higher, certainly of the same development, in 1839, and even in 1878. As we noted, a line of large foundation height blocks on the ledge outside, and to the south of the gate, implies a later terraces, So do the joints, first noted by Mr. Lynch, but shown in rebuilding. Burton's sketch of 1857 ; they lie 23 inches to the south, and 30 inches to the north of the entrance outside,1 and 14 inches to the north, and 16 inches to the This suggests a rebuilding of the present door and outer wall in south inside. under the terrace. ope to the north-west early times, as does the useless * The wall is of unusually somewhat small, coursed masonry, good, though a facing of headers. or perhaps A few with only stretchers, larger^ blocks, as usual, 3 and 4 feet long, are found in the lower courses. The masonry, 8 or 9 feet up, owing probably to difficulties in lifting It is inconceivable should have described that so many persons " as such masonry That of the neighbouring churches better cyclopean." merits term. this oft-abused gets smaller the blocks. The about gateway is perfect, facing ^See slightly PL III., to the north of east, fig. 2. This content downloaded from 140.203.12.206 on Thu, 8 Aug 2013 18:12:55 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions and ?is a $0Proceedings of the Royal Irish Academy. a long outer and two long relieving structure, with lintel, it. It is 5 feet 9 inches high, but a step of the natural rock to at most 5 feet 3 inches. inside it reduces jts height The passage rises steeply 18 inches in 5 feet ; the two outer ledges or steps are 14 inches and 16 inches high, so the garth inside is nearly 4 feet above the foot of the fine typical stones over ledge. 3 feet The from 3 feet 5 inches to tapers very slightly gateway upward 4 inches wide; it is 4 feet deep above, and 9 inches more below, of some 3 feet 7 inches long, and 1 foot thick. The lintels stones, large fairly rise inside like Fig. inverted 7. ?Dun steps, Aengusa such : The as we find inner gateway, over interior stairs in certain late and exterior. are five covers, There 15 their depths outer, peel towers. being?the inches (by 14 inches thick, and 5 feet 10 inches long), the next three 9 inches to 10 inches deep, the inner being 4 feet 6 inches long. They rise 9 inches, 6 inches, and 8 inches, the two inner being level, and keep the passage at a The inner ope is 5 feet 9 inches high, fairly even height above the slope. and 3 feet 2 inches wide. An unroofed 6 feet 7 inches wide, and passage, as 9 feet 6 inches deep, runs, is usual in Irish forts, through the inner sections of the wall. 9.inches, upper The large ; *some are 3 feet 7 inches, 4 feet 15 inches to 28 inches thick; but the and long, in a been having ragged, shapeless heap of blocks lower blocks are and 5 feet 9 inches part is rebuilt, This content downloaded from 140.203.12.206 on Thu, 8 Aug 2013 18:12:55 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions Westropp?The Fort of Dun Aengusa in Inishmore, Aran. 31 The rampart is 13 feet 6 inches thick sides of the gateway.1 feet 6 inches thick farther to the south, and 14 feet 2 inches to both 1878, here,2 12 north-east. such as we find at Ballykinvarga and other terraces, round the interior ; the lower is 4 feet to 5 feet high to the forts,3 running east, 6 feet to 7 feet to the west, the upper 4 feet to 5 feet high ; they vary in width, being usually 4 feet to 5 feet wide, but 7 feet 9 inches greatly The upper was noted by O'Donovan wide at one point. in 1839 ; there was There are two of it even in 1853. ; the lower was noted by Ferguson of steps run up the two terraces at 5J feet to the south Two "ladder-flights" : the type is common in Aran and Clare ; the other, or of the entrance " more common in Galway, Mayo, and Kerry, sidelong flight," being though some trace in 1878 in the former districts. The flights are each nearly 4 feet are and six of five and at 9 feet Northward, wide, steps. slightly projecting a is 3 inches from the gateway, 4 feet wide, flight of five "ladder-steps," and 2 feet 4 inches deep in all, up to the lower terrace ; it is mentioned by is an upward flight of six steps, 3 feet ; 27 feet farther northward Ferguson at this place. 4 inches wide ; the lower terrace is broadest The north-west not unknown of two sidelong flights,4 the terrace, consisting are reset, but they are and in all six the lower, upper; eight steps " " on Petrie's in 1878, with some trace marked plan, and there were slopes the foot is the of a terrace. The whole double flight is 12J feet long. At a in in the lower wall is lintelled it oft-mentioned ; low, ope passage, ending and is 3 feet 10 inches high, 33 inches wide, and over 6 feet loose filling, stair is 61 feet farther round in the deep, with four lintels, the outer being 2 inches thick ; it is 80 feet from pier of the main entrance ; there are no other features seaward. the 1The south side of the inner sketched the passage appears to have been standing when Burton in 1878; the sketch at that date tallies and at least the lower part on the north remained doorway, stonework above the door up to the present but part has been with nearly all the existing summit, added to the ends at the terraces. " 2Not 15 feet 5 Architecture." inches, and 13 feet on top, as in Petrie's Military 3 are found at Tre-eeiri terraces rare inWales; of outside Ireland, Worlebury (Somerset? Though there were six sections rising as terraces, each about 4 feet higher than the next in England?where in Scotland. Dr. G-uebhard illustrates Dr. Christison lower. implies that some are extant (from " E. Carfcailhac) terraced stone forts in Majorca des Baleares," and Minorca. Monuments primitives at Baou de la Grande in France, are probable and an apparent (Alpes Maritimes), examples in Portugal, all in primitive structures at Cidada Velha de Santa Luzia to closely comparable Irish cathairs. 4This in the very advanced the later, as occurring and elaborate forts of type is, perhaps, It is also found in Moneygashel, in Kerry. and Cahergel, ; Sligo ; Cahergel, Galway Staigue are in Aran, save at Dun Aengusa, in Clare. The examples and Cahergrillaun, Caherahoagh as we noted the sloping before the works of 1884 ; hut some may be true restorations, unrecorded a record in the Black is also Fort. There of a very marks of unrestored flights early ' " in the fort of Erimokastro, in Rhodes. N. S., (" Revue Arch?ologique,' steps" sidelong flight of vol. xviii. (1886), p. 156), There terrace This content downloaded from 140.203.12.206 on Thu, 8 Aug 2013 18:12:55 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions 32 Proceedings The it was given of the Royal Irish Academy. 140 feet to 150 feet across, 150 feet at the cliff; oval, but there seems no datum for the dimensions " of 225 feet north and south. In the middle, on the is from about garth very probably " in the Letters is a rock-platform, edge of the precipice, scarped and squared, a evidently few feet high, 42 feet north and south, and 27 feet across. From it we can waves in stone into the their unwearied drop a raging, sapping of the cliff There are no hut-sites in the garth ; if they ever existed, the 302 feet below. materials may have been thrown over. The view from the summit of the fort is most impressive " the soil almost paved with stones," fields, desolate-looking to crescent of Kilmurvey the away strand, and rise golden " to the old lighthouse hill, past the village of Gortnagappul,"1 runs the long range of steep, dark headlands, Eastward and solemn : the as in 1684, fall up the opposite near Dun Oghil, and deep bays, the huge cliff, and spray; while beyond by high-leaping trouble wall of qf the sea that cannot rest," we see the "great Thomond '?Moher?with bastions. The limits of the view its violet-shaded unsheeted rarely "the on clear days of Connemara; deep, whirling reach from in Kerry the giant peaks of Corcaguiny to those while is only the horizon of the landless to the south-west silver tideways. sea-birds, and the sparkling APPENDIX A. BlBLIOGKAPHY,YlEWS, AND PLANS.2 Forts on the Isles (1858). "Firbolg ser. vol. iv., Cambrensis, iii, p. 25. Archaeologia " of Aran/' p. 16. Isles The South Oliver J. Burke, (1887). "A Visit of Most Rev. Ardfert George, Bishop (1870). Conroy, Babbingtqn, St. Charles C. of Aran." to Aran of Enda." " on Irish Architecture," vol. i., Notes Edwin, Earl of (1875). i.?iii. p. 1, plates " Dublin Clare, and Arran." Olonmacnoise, (Sir) Samuel (1853). Ferguson, 494. xii., p. University Magazine, " " The Irish before the Conquest (ed. 1880), p. 6. Lady (1867). Ferguson, " On the Firbolgic Forts in the South Isles Charles H. (1853). Hartshorne, vol. of Arran." Cambrensis, iv., N.S., p. 296. Archaeologia " The Section. British Arran Isles." Ethnological Haverty, Martin (1859). Dunraven, Association, republished, p. 19. 1 on the maps. Oortnagappie 3 those earlier than 1880, or Only avowedly founded on notes dating before that year, This content downloaded from 140.203.12.206 on Thu, 8 Aug 2013 18:12:55 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions are given. "Irish Builder April " 15th, G. H. 33 Fort of Dun Aengusa in Inishmore, Aran. Westropp?The on Aran, Articles writer). anonymous (1877, 1886. commencing of Ireland"; in the West "Science 127.1 1875, p. (Hardwicke), Gossip" to Grose's In Introduction of Led wich, Edward "Antiquities (1797). " own of 140.2 and his vol. Ireland," ii., iv., p. Ireland," Antiquities p. " on County MS. notes. Letters John O'Donovan, Galway." (1839). I. Ordnance Acad.). (B. Survey Kinahan, "Sketches (1875). John (1821). O'Flaherty, vol. xiv., pp. 72-140. Eoderic O'Flaherty, Archaeol. Soc), (1684). p. 76. of Arran "Sketch "Ogygia," p. 85. Trans. Isles." "hlar " Architecture P?trie, Military (1820 and 1857). George B. I. Acad.). " McNair Stokes, Miss Margaret Early Christian (1876). Ireland," p. 14, and plate I. B.I. Acad., (Ir. Connaught" " of Ireland (ms. Architecture of and Christian." "Aran, Pagan Duffy's vol i., p. 577. Magazine," No. ii. (1895), p. 56; vi. (1904), T. J. (notes, 1878). Handbooks, Westropp, " Ancient Ant. Forts and Journal Soc. 73 ; Ir., 1885, p. 256. p. Boy. 123. of Ireland." Sections 46,49, 81, 94, " Sir W. Corrib," p. 265, view by C. Cheyne, drawn Wilde, (1872). Lough 1847. F. W. Wakeman, u Hibernian John (1858). Windele, vol. L, p. 740. (1862). Topographical mss. Supplement (Library, B. I. Acad.), Views. " in Grose's of view given by Dr. Ledwich, Antiquities Imaginary " own of and in his Ireland," Ireland," ii., p. iv, Antiquities plate xi., p. 140.3 " in Ordnance Survey of Dun Aenghus, 1839. Masonry by W. F. Wakeman, 1795. Letters." 1He only mentions 2Ledwich regards any accurate view or this kingdom hitherto the sea, and is a great one rampart of flaggy limestone and the chevaux de frise, it nor took any pains fort as a monastery visited to get ; he neither " There are of the ruin. many of these mandrae description dispersed over . . . situated on a is Dun Aengus unnoticed ; one remarkable high cliff over The inaccuracy stones without cement." and dogmatism circle of monstrous * are very attacks characteristic of the work cited. Windele also grievously this pretentious a who while his Mr. L. the fort to of Thomas Cooke, supposed giving theory friend, antiquary," " " a be a pagan temple, and the little recess in the wall a room for ! priest or two, with attendants it being (as we noted) less than 3 feet wide, 4 feet high, or 8 feet long. 5The view is stated to be in Grose, bot by M. Hooper, July 5th, 1795, engraved by Sparrow, " we read "W. Beaufort on the plate in del. J. iFord sculp. Pub. by John Jones, 90 Bride S* Dublin own work. Ledwich's 8, I. A. PBOC, the VOL. XXVIJI,, SECT. 0, This content downloaded from 140.203.12.206 on Thu, 8 Aug 2013 18:12:55 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions [?] of the Royal Irish Academy. 34 Proceedings " Christian in Miss Stokes's view, reproduced from the east.1 fort and cliff the shows It of Ireland." Antiquities ut supra, and and Wilde, C. Cheyne, 1847. hy Babbington reproduced " of Ancient Social History Dr. Joyce's Ireland," ii., p. 58. Fort from Dr. 1836. beautiful Petrie's the north-west. F. W. 1857. and Stokes, by Dunraven Burton, reproduced fort. ut supra. Door of the central Lord 1875. fine Dunraven's (2) Fort from north-west. Camera 1878. sketches?(1) (3) From north-west.3 east. (6) Interior photographs. (3) Portions (1) Fort of middle from distant, inner gateway. Fort, (4) The and cliff from east. and inner walls.2 north. (2) From (5) The inner fort from east. terrace. showing Plans. O'Donovan and P?trie. O'Donovan these All and Haverty. an extremely with gates. crude are plan, little is followed better showing only APPENDIX Unpublished Descriptions by Dunraven, Babbington, Windele than sketch-maps. gives and two crescent walls concentric B. before 1880. of a fort whose and which origin is lost in the darkness, no course must of consist largely of finds place in later Annals, apparently on its remains. An unrestored fort is its own record ; but, the papers written in 1878, and contrasts it to one who recalls the weird chaos of ruin-heaps The records six years later, enclosures left by the restorers the neat, level-topped no matter and how rude, assume a great importance, old descriptions, one's readers. We those of collect should be laid before P?trie, O'Donovan, and the result compiled from our own notes and sketches before the Windele, with the that these have exhausted all the early we ; but hope to lead anyone who has notes on Dun descriptions unpublished taken in or before 1884, to publish the same and perfect, as far as Aengusa, record of that great fortress. the possible, restoration. We cannot believe 1The the antiquary and the human the size of the waves artist ; by increasing overpowered a mere fraction of its height, and overhanging The fort, however, too far. figures he makes the cliff drawn. is accurately to reproduce these last two by Messrs. 31 have been kindly permitted George Bell and Sons, London. The latter also appears in Journal R. S. A. L, vol. xxxiv,, 257. York House, 3This was in Journal R. S. A. I., vol. xxv., p. 257, in 1895. I trace from it, as the published seems lost, original This content downloaded from 140.203.12.206 on Thu, 8 Aug 2013 18:12:55 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions Fort of Dun ?engusa Westkopp?The George " Essay Invasion P?trie on " and (1821 The 35 for his used by Dr. P?trie of Ireland previous to the English 12.0.9 and 10 in the collection of the 1857). Architecture the Military in ?nishmore, Aran. notes classed (two manuscripts B. I. Acad.), most probably date from his leisurely visit in 1821, not from the confused picnic meeting was almost of 1857, when detailed observation We and the other but keep condense his accounts, impossible. slightly " essential feature, cliff is 360 (error of every [p. 131]1 The overhanging recte above the of feet level ocean." sketch of the the His 300) copyist, gateway, with strongly inclined jambs, and section of the wall, 13 feet wide on top, and 15 feet 5 inches below, with a strong S curve, are both inaccurate. is in the handwriting Neither manuscript of P?trie, [p. 135.] " The keep or caher is 115 feet [150 on the plan] in diameter, the wall one 20 feet high, and 14 feet 6 inches thick. It has small entrance doorway, a small chamber or cell 5 feet high and 3 feet wide. contains The wall is of nearly equal thickness, making it. The wall for a allowance curve in its outer faces. The steps which led to the parapet are destroyed. within of the area there is an oblong level elevation of rock, apparently The keep is by art, 42 feet long, 27 feet wide, and 2 feet high. walls, on ledges of rock, each rising above strengthened by three concentric the other. The first [p. 136] varies from 10 to 12 feet, and is about 11 feet In the centre formed in thickness? It has a level terrace at the of 6 feet from the height in breadth from 3 to 6 feet. ground, and an entrance doorway, which varies This wall is 30 feet from the inner, and at the second concentric wall is situated only about half the circumference 6 feet wide ; this wall has also 234 feet. The doorway, ledge of rock, and extends on a lower of the first. a terrace 10 feet high and is its height, which but not lettered, in the plan It is about at about reached half by two flights of steps d and d [shown, in the "fragment," which is in the text confused with the second wall], Its distance from the inner wall varies and has a doorway about 4 feet wide. as from 20 feet to 30 feet. ledge of rock, distance from height " considerably the former The third below from and outer wall the preceding feet to 675 140 (E) occupies an irregular [p. 139], and varies in its feet ; it is about 6 feet in and in thickness. I have feature in this great work, yet to notice the most remarkable a sort chevaux de of of formed namely, frise high and sharp stones placed an This extra in with their points upwards. position, irregularly upright to a the second and third [sic] walls, and extends ordinary barrier surrounds 1The amount so that smaller copy is paginated, on each successive page is the same. p. 60 corresponds to p. 135 in the larger one. 16*1 This content downloaded from 140.203.12.206 on Thu, 8 Aug 2013 18:12:55 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions The 36 Proceedings of the ?oyal ?rish Academy. from 50 to 70 feet. A passage leads by a steep ascent of varying this in second and to the the 80 feet wall; passage has a wall of gateway 3 feet on either side." ? The most valuable O'Donovan John of the (1839). description one has coloured and which account since it fort, every published unrepaired distance was made for the Ordnance and is now given Survey Letters, D. commences in extenso E. I. 14 Acad. with It 3, p. 197). (mss. practically a long and controversial we a series of section which omit, as it is merely on Kev. Mr. Healy, and John O'Flaherty, for their Dr. Ledwich, attacks and theories. translations, descriptions, name now forgotten "Dun Aengus.?A 197.] by all the inhabitants [p. was written, one except Cromwellian tomed old man of the name who to call by descent), it Dun Inn?es," of Wiggins, at Killeany" (a dwelling " that the old people were accus remembered the correct Connaught of the pronunciation "all the other inhabitants it Dunmore." "Dun name; style a nAraind," Book of Lecan, f. 277. Aengusa " on the Dun is situated pronounced Doon Inn?es, Aengusa, [p. 204.] in of of the south side of the Great south-west townland the Island, ancient on the edge of a cliff which is 302 feet above the level of the sea. Kilmurvy, It is, perhaps, one of the finest specimens of barbaric fortresses in the world,1 ... much the are of ruined island but very the the ; boys destroying in for rabbits which burrow in its walls. As it stands part rooting remaining of three concentric it consists at present, a tolerable walls, of which the central one is in but the two outer ones are nearly destroyed, state of preservation, . . . The central in spots. excepting and interesting thirds It was originally part. of the oval remain, the Atlantic fort or keep is by far the most perfect of an oval form ; but now only the two in the course of two thousand having, years, worn away from the northern It measures from north to south?i.e. the remaining part. feet, and from part of the ring to the edge of the cliff?150 west to east, along the cliff, 140 feet. When the oval was perfect, it mea sured . . . The wall of the 225 feet in length from north to south. keep of Dun is built of large and small stones, the large ones being [p. 205] Aengus and ones in the small the face of in the This wall is made centre. it, placed of three distinct walls, stones of considerable is 18 feet. of This the masonry built up against each other, each well . . . size. of this wall The greatest height is at appear. the west The side, where internal division " 1 Hibernian W. P. Wakeman (in Duffy's Magazine,*' *' of a century later his recollection of G*Donovan*s wild fortress of the days of Queen Maeve." at present characteristics the original of the wall vol. joy'* faced with is here i.? N.S., p. 470) on first seeing records This content downloaded from 140.203.12.206 on Thu, 8 Aug 2013 18:12:55 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions "the 3 feet a quarter old palace Fort of Dun Aengusa in Inishmore, Aran. Westropp?The 4 inches thick division, external 4 feet 5 inches or central ; the second thick?total are here divisions raised division division 3t is 5 feet thick, and the external 12 feet 9 inches. The two thickness, to the height of 18 feet ; but the internal ; but it is probable that it was originally is at present only 7 feet high feet many higher, though, I think, never so high as the as I find in all the other forts that the internal division two external parts, 4 feet is generally are always carried to the same height." lower than the other two, which are next given. some Some pencil-notes comments and 207 ; map [pp. 206, uses which he later on.] give the measurements [p. 208.] The doorway which led into this keep is still nearly perfect ; it is placed in the north-east on the highest is situated side, facing the Aran point of lighthouse, which the island. It is nearly stopped up on the inside with stones which fell from the top of the wall ; I removed them on the outside down to the solid rock on which the wall in height to measure is built, and found the doorway and rise of each of the four exactly 5 feet. [He then gives the dimensions The doorway would be 21 inches higher on the inside than on the lintels.] outside were it not that the solid rock on which the wall is built rises in ... At the external part of the wall this doorway proportion. [p. 209.] remains 4 in thickness, and the other 5 feet inches only perfect, measuring are nearly level with the area of the fort, but immediately to the north and south of it they are tolerably perfect. " In the north-west side of this ring there is a passage, leading from the inside into the thickness of the wall to the extent of 5 feet 6 inches, measuring two divisions to the top, 3 feet 7 inches from the bottom . . . across. stones laid it is covered by large horizontally " the 210. Middle Outside internal keep are the remains [p. Wall.] a strong cyclopean wall distances. surrounds it at irregular which 2 feet 9 inches in width at the roof where of 28 feet of the keep. to the west, near the cliff, it is within Immediately and by west is 32 feet from it, and to the north-west, To the north To 42 feet 6 inches. from the keep this wall is in tolerable the north It remain. for here its original thickness and perhaps height preservation, faced inside and outside with is 6 feet thick and 12 feet high, and well stones against of considerable the other. ... size. It consists A line drawn of two distinct from fort, or keep, measures doorway part of this external wall there is a doorway is here 4 feet 7 inches in width, and the wall of the interior this part 131 feet. walls, one built up to the of the wall In the north-east now much 8 feet It is destroyed. 2 inches in thickness. from this doorway to that of the internal fort or keep measures 235 feet. At the distance of a few feet to the east of this broken doorway this wall forms an angle from which a straight line, drawn to the doorway of A line drawn This content downloaded from 140.203.12.206 on Thu, 8 Aug 2013 18:12:55 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions 88Proceedings of theRoyal Irish Academy. the keep measures 240 feet. From this angle the wall turns southwards towards the cliff, which [sic] is now very much destroyed. Its length from the angle above mentioned to the brink of the cliff is 176 feet. " . . . Outside this second wall is placed a host of sharp stones slopewise so are one of them them they fell against [p. 211.] Many sharp that if would run him some of This stones is in army [p. 213.] places 30 feet through, and from cliff extends all round outside the wall second deep, immediately1 to cliff. are They nearly perfect on the west side, and also on the east ; but on the north-east to of them have been removed many by the islanders facilitate the passage to the sea. of Old Wall.] [Fragment "Outside the second and between wall it and the chevaux de frise seems a [sicj there is another fragment of wall which never to have been carried around more than about the one-tenth of the part and The part of it at present in is 9 feet inches 7 ring. height standing 6 feet in thickness. " of stones there is another Outside the chevaux de frise a great extent of ground, and runs from cliff to cliff; a line drawn from the north and by the west side of the second wall to this, measures the chevaux de 129 feet, and a line drawn passing frise, through from the northern a to an same in direction of the wall north-west part [Outer wall which Wall.] encloses 393 feet. point, measures angle formed by this at the north-west This wall is here very much of it I have remains from what but injured; been able to ascertain wall was second similar the to that it built exactly obtuse that is formed [p. 214] of two distinct divisions which described, already would stand A line drawn from the broken of each other. independently to the north-east doorway in the second wall, already mentioned, point of this measures 434 feet. At the portion the wall was 8 feet thick, and well built inferred from any fragment of it now I have been able to ascertain that ; but the original height could not be A line drawn from this remaining. 586 feet; and a line drawn from the point to the edge of the cliff measures second wall at the edge of the cliff to the extremity of this at the edge of the 640 feet." cliff, also measures then rightly points out the [O'Donovan view, which imposed on Ledwich, "Antiquities imaginary falsity of Beaufort's of Ireland," p. 139, and gives, found, not many months ago, by on p. 221, sketches of the bronze antiquities " A for rabbits. fish-hook," 3? inches boys rooting and pins, now in P?trie Museum.] I need only comment 1This on the above description, is only true of the eastern long, portion that O'Donovan face, as we pointed out. This content downloaded from 140.203.12.206 on Thu, 8 Aug 2013 18:12:55 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions of a fibula, does not Westropp^-?%<? Fort from 39 seen (or at least noted) any steps in the inner fort or either in the middle and outer walls. The gates, we gateways before the restoration; other sources, existed but the lower appear to have of the northern know ofDun Aengusa in Inishmore, Aran. lies buried fort (as my sketch in vast heaps of shows) so were debris, any steps probably hidden. In that extraordinary mass of rough notes John Windele (ante 1854). on antiquities one most and folk-lore life-work of of and the industrious (the terrace of the inner We Aengusa. we find a description of Dun antiquaries), rescue a so to of the work, pleasure fragment so valuable, of John Windele. It is found in his of the Munster least-known strive with ignored and yet 12 e. 27). We condense. vol. i. (mss. B. L Acad., Supplement, " on Dun It stands the verge of the sea, high Aongus. [pp. 739-40.] a cliff the of at 300 feet in height, and least perched upon edge perpendicular more than a half-circle, of two enormous forms something consisting unjustly . . . The breadth walls. of the intervallum to the left 14 paces (39 feet), at the east 94 paces (300 feet)." " The appearance of the Dun as we first approach is that of a [pp. 740.] ruins ; but as it is reached, its general chaos of form soon develops great itself. The upper outline of the walls is jagged and most irregular, by reason of injuries of one kind or another. The exterior surface is tolerably regular ; on the interior the face has fallen into terrible ruin ; and it is only at particular points that its outline [p. 745] can be descried. They are built but of limestone, of moderately large stones, of irregular surface and outline, and without about 20 feet, and thickness 12 feet ; the any cement?the height on the outside, and diminishing walls perpendicular in thickness within by and The outer of interior wall has, at face the banquettes. stages receding of stairs, just as we find in the inside of Staigue the west side, a succession Fort. whole I am not prepared circle of that wall. measures or deny that these staircases encompass the The inner area has a horseshoe form, and [p. 747]. the cliff 48 paces (133 feet), and to the crown of the circle at the to assert along 51 A table of rock, square in form, crops up near north, paces (141 feet). the cliff above the surface at a height of about 4 feet. It is in a rude and In the eastern side of the inner encompassing state.1 perfectly unwrought . a doorway wall is the only entrance, of narrow proportions. .Height, 5 feet 2 inches; breadth at top, 4 feet 3 inches [sic]. is covered over with It four great lintel-stones, which rise one over the other inwards like inverted The of the steps. passage thus formed is only 6 feet, which would length indicate the thickness of the wall here. The floor is now covered with loose 1 If " P?trie perfectly to be right means without chisel marks, unwrought" " as to its been formed hj art," having Windele is right: This content downloaded from 140.203.12.206 on Thu, 8 Aug 2013 18:12:55 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions hut I helieye 40Proceedings of theRoyal Irish Academy. and probably placed there by design or fallen." [He then examines statement that it is a rejects the temple theory, agreeing with P?trie's " on and continues A Dun writer, describing fortress, p. 752.] says Aengus, the larger of the three (there are only two) enclosures is encircled by a stones, This is a decided error ; the stones rampart of large stones standing on end. are polygonal in form. . . sometimes but never by the hammer-dressed, chisel." so is indeed It remarkable that he all outside the entirely overlooked middle wall. Fig. Notes, tion may June 8.?Dun Aengusa 1st, 1878.?The from camera rarity sketches, 1878. of records made before the restora of my own very rough notes: giving an adaptation or is "an old tumbled wall; There very Aingus." Engus, " on set much is quite down" ; then, end; inside is a piece of detached pillars " '" The inner wall has a sort of terrace, nearly gone near the wall (sketch). There is "a road through like with doors, and one 'creepy' door." cliff, gaps . . . runs back round a steep (ridge), the second wall the pillars, very steep "Doon excuse my Ainuss The middle fort wall has fallen down pillars at the foot towards Clare. in one patch, with another wall inside ; there is a hole (? the ope inside). The wall was three times a man's height, of rough stones, naturally very square. An old gate looking towards Clare is perfect with a top stone, the wall rising to each side (sketch) ; another gap higher than like a gable over it, broken on top it has step-stones Inside the door is perfect (sketch); one can reach. with This content downloaded from 140.203.12.206 on Thu, 8 Aug 2013 18:12:55 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions Westropp? The Fort of Dun Aengusa in Inishmore3 Aran. 4l There was a sort of ; all the wall seems very shaken here. (of the passage) or terrace round the inside (sketch), and slopes, steps, up to the top, which ig a square platform There is and loose. of rock. The fort is not dangerous a bit like Grose in of view Grose's but like (the Ireland'), 'Antiquities you can hardly The the stones." are lots of the pillars. There through was written the month following probably . . * our which rises with tiers of three walls. visit:?"Dun after Engus, a chevaux d?frise of jagged The outer wall is insignificant ; then you come to a low middle is this next the great inner wall behind ; ; rampart pillar-stones a square-headed we in which, interior?a entered the level door, through 'Dunraven'; in rabbits get rocky piece of ground with an oblong raised platform of rock, 2 or 3 feet high, The Firbolgs were certainly no savages : and so squared as to look artificial. and flights the smooth-faced walls, well-built door, clever chevaux de frise, show this.1 of steps on the interior" Published For it may completeness in print. descriptions Boderick APPENDIX C. Accounts before be well to give 1880. a short account of the previous O'Flaherty (1684-6).?" Ogygia," p. 175, "Dun Aengus, ingens . ... sine coemento altissimam maris .supra crepidinem, erectum." "hlar the p. 76, "On rupibus Connaught," opus lapideum e vastae molis a large fortified place on the brim of a stands Dun Engus, . . . a in any mortar, great wall of bare stones without being high clift, as a as castle with several stones erected bawn, compass big large long side south slopewise against assault.2 ll,d. of Ireland," Grose's Edward Ledwioh, (1797).?In "Antiquities own in same and of his work the he follows name, iv, Introduction, p. a not and view done from delusive but from the nature gives "Ogygia," or monastic He regards the fort as a mandra enclosure. description. ? In John O'Flaherty Transactions Irish (1824). Boyal Academy, to his predecessors'3 accounts of the fort, xiv., p. 135, he adds nothing even any allusion omitting 1 The middle shows sketch-plan wall with north-east to the abattis. the north-west and north gates, in the inner ring ; the steps, east terrace, and gateway the ahattis all round the wall, and the the fragment, outer wall. '* " 2 Its which might contain 200 cows," of course refers to the inner fort. measure," only 3 much of druids, "relics space to futile theories on the non-existent Though devoting open of fire-worship, miraculous founts, and* evident vestiges temples, altars, stone pillars, sacred mounts " writes of this author with much bitterness -of oak groves." in . O. S. Letters." O'Dohovan E.I.A. MtOC, VOL. XXVIII., SECT. C [6] This content downloaded from 140.203.12.206 on Thu, 8 Aug 2013 18:12:55 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions 42Proceedings Samuel vol. xii., Fbr0USO$ " Dublin the (1853).?In (as he also "S. F." p. 494, of the Royal Irish Academy. sigaa some University Magazine," of his poems1 in the same rather inaccessible being this excellent whidb, ?eserip^Bt pages) gives :? to antiquaries living outside DufeKn, may be given in a condensed form " a walk of Dun of half a mile After rampart (we) reach the outer in The of 3 about feet thickness. wall a, stone (perhaps 8) dry Angus, on a acres. A wall of 11 similar covers about circumvallation space side of each avenue the it onward flanks the outer from to a entrance This second lying close to? the main body of the fortress. . . . a a All round and wall consisted o? parapet. banquette apparently . . . rock are of the base of this second rampart sharp-pointed fragments ... on one can it the is with end; approach place save by pitched difficulty . . . . . of the , is still perfect about the middle the avenue. The entrance . . . The visitor must eastern front. climb in on his hands and knees, second line of wall under the wide remains two massive are the the right, on entering, . . . one or to the lower banquette ; On lintel-stones. of a flight of steps conducting of steps may be detected." indications Conroy Most Rev. George (1870).?The other Conroy, Bishop of Ardagh, " to Arranmore of St. Enda," published in The Irish Ecclesias vol. vii., p. 24, follows S. F. closely. tical Eecord," He describes N.S., " and the beautiful cliffs Notes the dry-stone wall, an irregular rock-pools. " built the abattis 60 to 80 feet wide, where a in two divisions," ellipse," Dr. " in A Visit narrow avenue which is 32 is left ; it runs all round the of wall it is "a fragment about covering second wall, to 42 fort feet in two sections. " like the coats The feet central one-tenth from the central fort is a half oval, between of the second to the north-west the wall and which line," and in three sections, on the stairs, and the banquette, east side"; the nearly perfect door 3 feet 4 inches wide, with a lintel and two stones to shift the pressure, and a passage leading into the wall, are " are from the mentioned. The dimensions Ordnance Survey Letters." " "The Irish Builder of series anonymous articles, partly from (1877).?A of an onion," traces of a compilation is described) (so far as Dun Aenghus from O'Donovan, were and this in paper, from Ferguson, Conroy, published : seem notes for 1886. The and unrevised hurried loth, August example, notes taken in 1877, but as separate and Dun Farvagh they describe Dun Moher Lord Dunraven (ante 1875).?This splendid work forts, p. 237. is too well known to " and the Mariner," the Aran paper, on p. 506. His history example, Archytas following of Clare are inferior ; he locates the Battle of Gorcomroe Abbey, 1317, at Doolin, topography " Church to be "the Abbey" and asserts Killilagh ; places Magh Adhair (in eastern Clare) at Moy " near Adha Kilrash with confuses and makes Caherlaherta ; probably (Moyadda), Ballykinvarga, de Clare survive the Battle of Dysert. Richard 1For and This content downloaded from 140.203.12.206 on Thu, 8 Aug 2013 18:12:55 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions ofDun Aengusa m Inishmore, Aran. Fort Westropp?iFfe 43 and views of Dun Aenghoasa The account (the? latter require description. are known to have been taken before the Eestoration) the only photographs in volume i., "N?teseon Irish Architecture." The sketch of the door of the " central fort is also given. from the Ordnance The plan is only a sketch-plan the writer follows largely for dimensions/ He saw which Survey Letters/' " a or was *no trace of inner platform there central im the* chamber ; passage " He alone in outermost fort. the perfect gateway describes the the wall," "interior covered with flags, the wal? being 8- feet high, and* & feet thick." 1 have to thank courtesy of the publishers, Messrs; ?eorge Bell,& views of this work. to reproduce two* of the photographic the-kind Sons, for permission The other accounts Martin hardly are rarely of any independent That of value; is Handbook for the British Association very brief, Haverty (1859) filling two pages,1 while- fourteen are devoted to the picnic and long to the point?much sack to but little bread. other widely known accounts which have given many (as the earlier gave the writer of these lines)1 their first interest in the fort. The in "The Irish before the Conquest"; one, dating 1867, is by Lady Ferguson " a preface to her is the other, by Miss Margaret Stokes, Early Christian and impressive general descriptions, Architecture," 18T6; both are excellent speeches, but little There are two but do not give details of the ruin. by English Accounts Writers. ?n this: fort in (iArchaeologia. There fire two-papers Cambrensis" whichy as being published are perhaps more studied by antiquaries in Great Britain, outside Ireland,, and call for some comment to? correct the, strange mistakes made*, especially . Charles H, in the first. Hartshorne of the description picturesque details;: "The area includes series, (vol.. iv., new site: of the fortress half an acre; this m a very gives He theni gives surrounded by a p~ 29?) in 1853* partly ... . two of wall most and unusual character, triple by a glacis, beyond: on two out the south-east to concentric die whic& ditehes, walte, gradually om a the naked rock,; and lastly,, chemtia d?frise? He the north side* by the portal of, from,20 to, 50 feet;, mentions gives the height of the walls.as " on. tothe sonthreasfe; the entrance the north side is a much larger entrance, a parallel The lower part of the with sallyport running underground. on which people can interior wall at about half its height forms an 'alure/ " " walk all round to the ; it. is reached by steps running top of the wall, which 1 Haverty gives the size of the inner fort as 144 feet on the cliff, and 160 feet north " the he calls it of Aran?the Acropolis palace fortress of the days, of Queen Maeve." This content downloaded from 140.203.12.206 on Thu, 8 Aug 2013 18:12:55 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions and south; 44Proceedings of theRoyal Irish Academy. a reticulated The chevaux de zigzag,'-1 regularly cross each other, forming a 6 3 feet of to set so is of "slabs limestone," frise high, and jagged in the narrow fissures of the rock that it is rather difficult to insidiously From the great skill of its works, he cannot believe that extricate oneself." but regards it as monastic.2 The rest of the fort is of the first century, the paper, where not concerned with slight notes on the other forts, wanders and assertion. into religious controversy It must be noted that there are w ditches; the walls do not die out to the th? chevaux de frise is not confined to the north part; the walls south-east; 18 feet high ;where best preserved, not 20 feet (still less 50 feet) high; the gate does not face the sowtfA-east. The other ope is smaller than the or even pass main gateway; does not run 4underground, the "sallyport" do cross each Thus not and the there are the other. wall; steps through were eight vital errors in the paper, which nevertheless has been as treated reliable. absolutely The other paper, by Charles C, Babbington3 (vol. iv., third series, 1858, on 1859 much ; it makes the suggestions Handbook, p. 96), depends Haverty's was the oldest, the outer sections section of the citadel-wall that the middle passage was an older being added on its decay, and that the north-west not This the wall. last is outer closed entrance, improbable, as we have by outer of older of He noted evident the section. traces rebuilding suggests that the Firbolgs were the Gwyddel ; that they were driven out of Wales by the Cymry, description of Ireland. in Ireland and conquered by the Tuatha De Danann. as yet published of the fort is good, the best description Though not falling strictly being so late as 1894, and not 1884, we must notice a valuable within the The outside of the papers noted here, least) from notes taken before limit (avowedly at paper on the date of the fort by Dr, Colley of of London Society Antiquaries (vol. iv., no on the He found second series, p. 224). marks of any implement stonest The wall has a rubble centre, with faces of dry stones, and is compact March in Proceedings of the its inner side run lofty by passages and domed chambers. Along ... to which He accepts platforms independent flights of steps give access. " " for account to the the and that the wall, (p. 226) suggests siege theory stones of the chevaux de frise were to shelter the cattle driven into the fort from slingers.4 P?trie, Miss Stokes, &c, date the fortress before the Christian penetrated p; 1A confused of Staigue Fort. recollection, 2" All these duns, cathairs, and cashels were erected as defences around the sacred buildings," 303. He did not observe that all the existing churches in Arran are unfortified. 9 ? On the Firbolgic Ports in the South Isles of Aran.'* 4 It seems stones could be supposed to be cattle-shelters. strange how the low, close-set This content downloaded from 140.203.12.206 on Thu, 8 Aug 2013 18:12:55 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions Fort of Dun Aengusa in Inishmore, Aran. Westropp?The 45 " an antiquary as Bev. Charles Henry Hartshorne con worn were chevaux de sidered it of monastic The of the pillars frise origin. " " into deep digitations ; the bronze acus of a fibula of the spring pin type was found by Mr. Wakeman ;,and in the autumn of 1893 the auth?r found in era; but "socareful a rabbit-earth a small hinged ring of a bronze pin, though the acus was missing. and there is a socket opposite the hinge for some decoration, The Dublin Museum The British kind of setting." has one inferior pin-ring. has a perfect example.. Museum It dates from the fifth to the tenth century. It had a cable In the enclosure was which found, minute worked up. of Dun Aenghus, far from the spot where arrow-head picked up a leaf-shaped flakes had been chipped, and also favour the pre-Christian These The The not the author origin of the fort.1 Bestoration.2 " conservation (rather than ") of Dun so much distrust, severe criticism, and strong assertion, studied the fort before the event is to some degree compelled to of subject has excited the restoration Aengusa that one who " find a verdict." The unnecessary rebuilding " the walls and the tidy "and new appearance it was that the work should have been desirable vision Left a small the bronze pin of chert, from piece of true flint and levelling up of parts of thereby produced, show how under the super constantly of an antiquary who had studied our ring-walls to non-antiquaries and the natives, the work was of course and direction carefully. done un like repairing a fence, and no steps were taken to differentiate sympathetically, the old work from the new, or (I understand) to secure any full record of the in its untouched structure who condition. studies the however, Anyone, of the authorities the tabular statement for each accounts, especially " " arrive at the conclusion that very little falsification took feature, must two of In to the the south the in the inner fact place. (save flights gate all the features are attested. fort, and the upper flight in the north-east3), above in existing steps (as we suggested) had probably warrant in In and the debris. this blocks case, as^at long Dunbeg, want steps, a of accurate severe to be to has led "too reports antiquaries judgment the restorers. justified by the evidence against Even the unrecorded bottom The Appendix to the 48th Beport of the Commissioners of Public Works 1 Stone were also found at Caherhlonick near Corofin, and Cahermackmole implements (Caher in Carran, Co. Clare, both in reputed Firbolg neighbourhoods. See R.S.A.I. mackirilla), Journal, vol. xxviii., p. 264, and xxv., p. 208. " 2The fort was vested as a '* National Monument by order of the Irish Church Temporalities October BOth, 1880. Commissioners, 3Even the latter See above. may be implied in Most Rev. Dr. Conroy's account. R. I. A. PROC, VOL. XXVIII., SECT. C [7] This content downloaded from 140.203.12.206 on Thu, 8 Aug 2013 18:12:55 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions 46Proceedings of theRoyal Irish Academy. says :?"I carefully p. 75, in a note on "Dun Aengus," (1879-80), examined the fort, and although many stones may be put into the walls to can be done towards its preservation." further ruin, little more prevent insertion of The Superintendent suggests stopping boys from rabbit-hunting, in Ireland in gaps, and building up dry stone buttresses where the walls overhang. of the level tops and of ranges of terraces that the building is evident No money was expended at that time [see was never contemplated him. by stones It p. 51]. The National to the mentioned mention sum of ?591 Monuments 2s. Id. was laid out 32 & 33 Viet. (under No detailed p. 55). Eeport, in the brief section, pp. 29,30. on p. 53 of an expenditure is made 53rd in works c. 42) account on the Aranmore in 1884-5 appears, (Appendix nor is Aran In the Eeport, 1885-6, only of ?11 7s. 9d. for work on for these and many silence Aran; while years, complete subsequent on as of the works to the the extent and character done Ancient prevails that distrust and hostile Monuments. It is hardly wonderful (at times and others. criticism among antiquaries prevailed unfair) North These, so far as I have been able to ascertain, of the ancient and fascinating the most remarkable are the records fortresses of one of of Ireland.1 1 I must to those who helped me on the subject in various ways? my indebtedness acknowledge the late Dr. W. Miss G. C. my late brother, Ealph Hugh Westropp, Stacpoole Westropp, s.j. ; and in photography, Miss Neville, and Rev. E. Hogan, the late Mrs. Shackleton of Siacpoole, b.n. as already noted, and Dr. George Fogeity, to Messrs. Also, Lucan, George Bell & Sons for to reproduce two photographs. permission namely, This content downloaded from 140.203.12.206 on Thu, 8 Aug 2013 18:12:55 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions Proc. B. I. Acad., Vol. XXVIIL, Fig. Fig. 2.?Dun 1.?Dun Aengusa Aengusa from from Plate L Sect. C. the East. the Xorth. W]>tu()! (Photograph Thutogiapii ]'.?Dun by T. J. Westropp.) by Dr. George Fogerty, Akngusa. This content downloaded from 140.203.12.206 on Thu, 8 Aug 2013 18:12:55 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions R.N.) Proc. B. I. Acad., Vol. XXVIIL, Fig. Fig. 1.?Dun 2.?Dun Aengusa Aengusa. Sect. C. from the West The inner Fort before before Westropp.?Dun Plate the restoration. the restoration. (Dunraven Collection.) (Dunraven Aengusa. This content downloaded from 140.203.12.206 on Thu, 8 Aug 2013 18:12:55 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions Collection.) II. Proc. B. I. Acad., Vol. XXVIIL, Fig. Fig. 2.?Dun Aengusa. Plate Sect. C. 1.?Dun Aengusa. The Doorway. Westkopp.?Dux The Abattis. (Photographs by T. J. Westropp.) Aengusa. This content downloaded from 140.203.12.206 on Thu, 8 Aug 2013 18:12:55 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions III,