Landscape History Today: the Bulletin of CSLH

Landscape History Today:
the Bulletin of CSLH
January 2013
Number 52
Staunton Harold, Leicestershire
Contents
Chair’s Message
3
A Classic Cluster - Shipton in Shropshire
4
Rhosydd Slate Quarry, Blaenau Ffestiniog
7
Just a mile apart …
9
Here and there, now and then
14
Battlefields and Beacons
15
A Day of Discovery
23
The Year Ahead ...
26
Dates for the diary
Members may be interested in the following events ...
Saturday 20th April 2013 - Cheshire Archaeology Day
Saturday 26th October 2013 - Cheshire Local History Day
‘Cloisters, Churches & Chapels’
Editor: Dr. Sharon Varey, Meadow Brook, 49 Peel Crescent, Ashton Hayes,
Cheshire, CH3 8DA
Email: editor@chesterlandscapehistory.org.uk
Web: www.chesterlandscapehistory.org.uk
Page 2
Chair’s Message
Interesting, in some cases fascinating, well attended lectures and enjoyable
field visits are the mainstay of the CSLH programme, and 2012 has seen the
Society continue to flourish in this respect. Our programme also included a
successful residential visit to Leicestershire and you can read more about this
on pages 15 - 22.
In addition to the above, CSLH continues to branch into new territory and 2012
was a busy and eventful year. In July, CSLH ran a successful ‘day school’ on
landscape history, to help a group involved in dating old Welsh houses, put
their dwellings in the context of their local landscape. October saw the launch
of our first external publication, in conjunction with the University of Chester.
Landscape History Discoveries in the North West, as members will know, was
based on the papers delivered at our successful 25th anniversary conference
just over a year ago, and I think you will agree this publication is a credit to the
Society and all those who were involved.
Although in its early days, the Forests project, which has arisen from the FieldNames Research Group, is about to get into full swing, with transcription
training kindly being offered by one of our members early in 2013. Further
details on the Forests project and how you can become involved can be
obtained from Vanessa Greatorex Roskilly or Tom Swailes.
These activities show that CSLH members are a talented group - something
which is reflected in this edition of Landscape History Today. In our short
articles, members share some of their recollections of places they have visited.
Following on from a report of the residential visit, and the September
Discovery Day the remainder of our January Bulletin outlines our programme
for 2013 which, I’m sure you’ll agree, contains something for everyone
interested in the various aspects of landscape history.
All that remains is for me to wish you all, on behalf of the CSLH planning team,
a very happy, healthy and prosperous new year.
Sharon Varey
Page 3
A Classic Cluster – Shipton in Shropshire
Figure 1 Shipton Hall
On a recent visit to Shropshire we were intending to explore Shipton Hall, a
building that Pevsner describes in some detail but does not rave over. However,
we found that it is still a family residence, so, rather than have the dogs set on
us, we tip-toed round the corner and went to see the church. This turned out to
be a surprising move; serendipitous even because the assemblage of St James'
Church, Shipton Hall and its dovecote makes a sort of 'essence of manorial
England'.
The church is an intriguing yet simple 'three parter' – west tower, nave and
chancel. Its Norman style dates to around 1200 but it is a difficult building to
understand from the outside because the nave and lower tower are rendered
so the stonework cannot be seen. However, we do know that a timber belfry
was added to the stone tower before 1552 to accommodate a peal of three
bells. Bells, dated c.1550, 1694 and 1875 still hang there but 450 years' decay of
the wood means that they are rung one at a time by bell-ringers with an iron
nerve. The church should be impoverished because the parish contains only
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Figure 2 St. James’s Church
about 100 people and in 1879 was reputed to have the smallest stipend in
England. There is also a 'situation vacant' here because no chaplain has lived in
Shipton since 1572. However, the building looks surprisingly well maintained so
there must be a reason for visitors abandoning the normal tourist trails to
Ludlow in order to visit St. James' and a plaque on the nave wall explains all.
Figure 3 Memorial Plaque
Page 5
Why were four young children from Shipton (but not their parents) sent on the
Mayflower to New England in 1620? Samuel and Katherine More were cousins
who married not necessarily for love but to consolidate the family estates.
Katherine gave birth to four children who, as they grew, bore an increasing and
uncanny appearance to a neighbour, Jacob Blakeway. Samuel More accused his
wife of adultery and a protracted and costly legal struggle followed. After
Katherine's final appeal was dismissed by the Courts in July 1620, Samuel was
free to 'dispose' of the children – what an awful phrase! Samuel was secretary
to Lord Zouche who was Lord Lieutenant of Shropshire and he could help 'to
provide for the education and maintenance of these children in a place remote
from those partes where these great blotts and blemishes may fall upon them'.
Samuel paid £20 per child (three sons and a daughter) for shares in the
Mayflower venture and placed the children in the care of three leaders of the
Pilgrim community, William Brewster, Edward Winslow and John Carver, the
latter becoming the first Governor in America. The ship sailed late in the season
and was blown off course, landing at Cape Cod where they spent the first
winter. Three of the children did not survive the cold, starvation and typhus of
that year. Of the four, only Richard More, who lived with the Brewster family,
survived. He grew up to lead an interesting sailor's life, marrying Christian
Hunter in 1636 (by whom he fathered seven children). When Christian died, he
married Jane Crumpton at Salem but, being a roving sea-dog, was possibly also
married to Elizabeth Woolno in Stepney – a wife in every port! He died c.1695
aged about 81 and is buried in Salem. Further lurid details of 'Old Captain
More's' life (and there are many such details) can be found in two booklets on
sale in the church.
It is probably the connection with the More children and the Mayflower
Pilgrims that still attracts visitors (and contributions) to this charming church.
Stand in the churchyard and you can look across to the Manor House, originally
the home of the Myttons (remember the Jack Mytton Bridleway in this part of
Shropshire?) and the Mores. In fact, the working title for this piece was
'Myttons, Mores and Mayflower' but Maggie and I thought that needed some
explanation!
Mike Taylor
Page 6
Rhosydd Slate Quarry, Blaenau Ffestiniog
Those of you fortunate
enough to have been to
Blaenau FFestiniog will
have been awed by the
remains of the slate
industry that dominate the
town and its surroundings.
The quarries visible from
the road are the larger ones
such as Gloddfa Ganol and
Llechwedd, the tunnels and
caverns of the latter still
being open as a tourist
attraction. If you drive up to
Tanygrisiau and then walk
up the deserted Cwmorthin
valley you will eventually
reach the Rhosydd quarry.
The highest area of the
workings is at nearly 2,000
feet, which on a winter’s
day or indeed many
summer ones would be a
very inclement commute.
The average age at death of
a quarryman in 1876-85
was forty four compared
with fifty six for men in
other trades locally. In spite
of that, the environment in
the barracks was described
Figure 1 Track from Cwmorthin to Rhosydd
Figure 2 Quarrymen’s Barracks
Page 7
as a home of poetry, song and religion. Many men spent the week in the
barracks high in the mountains until mid-day on Saturday, returning with their
week’s supplies early on Monday morning.
Figure 3 Remains of Rhosydd Chapel
Much can still be seen of
the
spoil
heaps,
quarrymen’s barracks, slate
mills and of course a chapel
as you can see from the
photographs. The collapse
of the roof of one of the
quarry’s chambers created
the large pit, to which my
photograph doesn’t really
do justice. Those of an
intrepid
and
nonclaustrophobic disposition
can explore the extensive
underground workings but
there’s no way you’d get me
down there.
Gwilym Hughes
Figure 4 Collapsed chamber
Page 8
Just a mile apart …
Designated an area of outstanding beauty, the Vale of Clwyd is a flat basin of
mixed farming in a rich fertile valley some twenty miles long and four miles
wide. It is bounded to the east by the Clwydian Hills, a line of rounded summits
running parallel with the Denbigh-Ruthin Road. The hills are topped by four
Iron Age hill-forts, the highest of them is Moel Fenll at 1,680 feet and to the
west, upland moors and forests. Moel Famau is the highest point in the area at
1,818 feet. On the summit is the base of the old Jubilee Tower, a 115 feet high
structure which collapsed during strong gales in 1862. It was designed, by the
architect Thomas Harrison, to celebrate the Golden Jubilee of King George III.
He envisaged a rectangular base with an Egyptian obelisk. Today its remains are
seen as an iconic landmark, guiding local people home and drawing visitors
from Cheshire and Merseyside alike. The view we see is of a dynamic working
landscape: wooded valleys, hills covered in grass and heather, and fertile
farmland on the lower slopes and the valley basin.
Figure 1 View of the Clwydian hills
This tranquil valley has played a vital role in Welsh medieval landscape history.
Old stone churches and two large medieval settlements - Denbigh and Ruthin.
Page 9
Here, the security the castles provided, brought about the development of the
attractive market towns.
OS maps and aerial photography reveal irregular enclosed fields. Yet there is
evidence that at one time there were open fields. Demographic change has
taken place over many centuries and has resulted in the population being now
but a fraction of what it was and a number of settlements, farmsteads and
dwellings have gone.
Among these enclosure fields and the network of narrow winding roads with
high hedgerow field boundaries are remote stone churches and churchyards.
The earliest churches were never intended for congregational worship. They
were just prayer-cells for the saint and his immediate followers. Built of wattle
and daub, and later replaced by timber structures, it was only if they had been
well placed or were of special sanctity that they were rebuilt in stone.
The sites of these early Celtic churches can often be identified on OS maps by
the place-names prefix 'Llan', meaning 'an enclosure'. It is said that it became
the custom for chiefs and local nobles to donate a plot of land on which to have
a sacred enclosure where Christians could bury their dead. These may have
been the site where Celtic monks retreated to remote places to live like hermits
or congregated in monasteries under an abbot. Often later, a church was built
on the site and they can be found in relatively isolated locations in the
landscape.
The churches of St Dyfnog's at Llanrhaedr and St Saceran at Llanynys are just a
mile apart. Both churches have a double-nave, a characteristic feature of
structures in this area, and have fine hammer-beam roofs.
The Church of St Dyfnog
St Dyfnog's church is set on the south side of the small village of Llanrhaedr.
There has been a church on this site since the sixth century. St Dyfnog, the
patron saint, chose the spot because of the well. The four sided pool on this
impressive site is filled by a number of springs that emerge from the hillside of
this beautiful tree lined valley on the south side of the church. Whilst on private
land, about 700m uphill to the rear of the church, the well is accessible via a
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Figure 2 The Well behind St Dyfnog’s church
footpath from the churchyard. More than a thousand wells were listed in Wales
in 1951, but far fewer exist to the present day.
The oldest part of the church, as it now stands, is the thirteenth-century tower,
solid, squat. The body of the church is of a pattern frequently found in this part
of the country having a double-nave. The nave, being in two equal portions was
constructed in the fifteenth century. Its fenestration is particularly varied and
almost all the architectural detail is perpendicular or later. The fabric of the
Figure 3 St Dyfnog’s church
Page 11
building was extensively restored by Baker 1879-80 and more recently 1986-89.
The remarkable Jesse window in the north nave dates to 1533. During the civil
war, in 1642, the window was taken out and the glass was put in a massive oak
chest and believed to be buried in the churchyard or in the woods. At the
Restoration the window was put back in.
The Church of St Saceran
St Saceran's church and its settlement occupies a slightly elevated tract of drier
terrain on the valley floor of the Vale of Clwyd between the Rivers Clwyd and
Clywedog. When the rivers flooded the church was sometimes cut off. A
guidebook in the church records local memories of severe floods when
parishioners had to go to church by boat, or by swimming with their horses.
Around Llanynys are lush water meadows, with numerous stone bridges over
both rivers. The surrounding landscape of small and irregular fields and
clustered small farms is rich in cropmarks and earthworks. There is an area of
former medieval open field-systems, typified by baulks between the sections of
communal land which can still be seen.
Figure 3 The Church of St Saceran
The site has a long history, having been established as early as the sixth
century. Located on the Cistercian Way, this is a big, typical Denbighshire
double-nave church with a bell cote at the western end of the south nave. Its
Page 12
core is of thirteenth-century date with
major additions between the fifteenth
and sixteenth centuries and considerable
rebuilding in 1768. The oldest feature of
the church, however, is the disused ivygrown thirteenth-century west doorway.
A wall painting of St Christopher was
rediscovered under plaster in 1967. This
rare survival is considered by some to be
one of the finest medieval paintings in
North Wales. The church is situated next
to an inn, which at the time of writing is
being converted into two dwelling
houses. Nearby there is also a large
private house.
John Lowe
Figure 4 Medieval wall painting
Further Reading
J. Challinor and D.E.B. Bates, Geology Explained in North Wales (Newton Abbot,
1973), pp. 176–177.
H. Davies, St. Dyfnog church guide (1972).
D. Gregory, Country Churchyards in Wales (1991), pp. 88-89.
T.J. Hughes, Wales’ Best One Hundred Churches (2006).
E. Hubbard, The Buildings of Wales: Clwyd, Denbighshire and Flintshire (1986),
pp. 230–232, 246–248.
L. Parry Jones, St. Saceran church guide (1967).
R. Surman, Betjeman's Best British Churches – new edition (2011), pp. 852, 858.
Denbighshire Churches Survey Church of St Dyfnog, Llanrhaeadr-yngNghinmeirch, available: www.cpat.demon.co.uk/projects/longer/churches/
denbigh/16884.htm
Denbighshire Churches Survey Church of St Saceran, Llanynys, available:
www.cpat.demon.co.uk/projects/longer/churches/denbigh/16897.htm
‘The Early Medieval Period – AD 400-1100’, available: www.cpat.org.uk/cpat/
past/earlymed/earlymed.htm
‘Capturing the Clwydian Range’, available: www.clwydianrangeaonb.og.uk
Page 13
Here and there, now and then
A recent short journey to the North took us to two contrasting hotels in very
different settings. The first night was spent in a brand-new hotel in Gateshead,
not far from the River Tyne, near the Millennium Bridge, the Baltic Art Centre
(which used to be a flour mill) and the Sage (a stunning building with great
sound and vision for a wide variety of performances and community use). But
Gateshead's industrial past is very evident around, and the hotel has risen on
the site of an older building on the edge of one of Gateshead's industrial
estates (now business parks?). The 'Angel of the North' looked after us from a
snowy print on the bedroom wall!
We travelled on with a visit to Washington Old Hall reached by very carefully
following the 'brown signs', and escaping with difficulty from the seeming
embrace of the 'Lambton worm'.
A misty, cross-country journey led us to an isolated nineteenth-century hotel
reached along a mile-long single track road, whether you are travelling from the
east or west. Originally built to expand facilities to the 'spa' at Shap Wells
(once being compared favourably to Harrogate), it has survived the years to
become a comfortable, traditional hotel. One of its interesting periods was as a
prisoner-of-war camp for German officers during the Second World War - with
an almost-successful escape bid by two of the officers. However, now it can
be appreciated in its attractive grounds by a lively beck, with remnants of the
spa, a geological SSI and a thriving colony of red squirrels. Sadly, the spa water
is not on offer!
So many aspects of landscape showed themselves - or threw their particular
charms our way - that we might be lured back to explore further.
Jennifer Kennerley
www.shapcumbria.info/shap-wells.html
Page 14
Battlefields and Beacons
Our residential visit this year was to explore some of the special places in
Leicestershire, which according to Hoskins ‘contains some things as good as any
in England’.
Day 1
Our journey to Leicestershire took us over the grade 1 listed Swarkestone
Bridge, a magnificent structure stretching over the River Trent and its
surrounding marshes, for a distance of nearly a mile. It was built originally in
the thirteenth century but with many alterations over time. It is the longest
stone bridge and longest inland bridge in England.
Figure 1 Swarkestone Bridge
Our meeting point was the Ferrers Centre in the grounds of Staunton Harold
Estate. We explored the grounds and precincts of the beautiful eighteenthcentury Hall (see front cover). This is in private hands but had originally been
the family seat of the Shirley Family for over 500 years. However, the main
purpose of our visit was to view the Holy Trinity church which is adjacent to the
Hall. This is owned by the National Trust and Ken Kent was on hand to open the
Page 15
church up for us on their behalf. He gave us a short talk on the history of the
family and of the church. This church is a very rare example of one that was
built during the Commonwealth and its style harks back to the medieval period.
It had been built by Sir Robert Shirley in 1653 but unfortunately he was
imprisoned in the Tower where he died at a very young age.
From here we went to investigate some of the area’s industrial heritage by
visiting the Moira Furnace on the banks of the Ashby de la Zouch Canal. It had
been built at the beginning of the nineteenth century by the earl of Moira, to
exploit the nearby reserves of coal and iron stone. Its location had been chosen
for its proximity to the canal.
Our time here was divided into parts, one group taking a short trip on the canal
to view the lime kilns whilst the other group were given a tour of the furnace by
a member of the Museum Trust. We explored the loading ramp, the chimney
where the raw ingredients were tipped into the furnace and saw evidence of
the overheating of the furnace, indicating a design fault or operating problem.
These had led to the furnace not being a very successful venture. It had been
abandoned with its final charge, partially smelted, still visible inside the
furnace.
Figure 2 Moira Furnace
Page 16
We then made our way to our hotel in Market Bosworth, a late seventeenthcentury stately home, the seat of the Dixie Family.
Figure 3 Bosworth Hall Hotel
After dinner, Richard Knox, the Heritage Officer for Leicestershire, talked to us
about the Battle of Bosworth. He explained the background to the battle and
medieval warfare with some of our members participating! Most interestingly
he spoke about the recent investigations into the search for the correct location
of the battlefield itself (even a Time Team Special was filmed on this) –
unfortunately not where the Visitor Centre is placed!!!
Of course, the very recent and newsworthy story of the discovery of bones in a
Leicester car park, which could possibly be those of Richard III, was a hot topic
of debate. This concluded a very interesting and entertaining evening.
Diane Johnson
Day 2
The weather stayed dry on Wednesday, where our first visit was to the
fourteenth-century church of St James at Sutton Cheney, where we were
welcomed by a member of the congregation. This church retains many
associations with Richard III, including copious examples of his white boar
badge, arms and motto Loyauté me lie. It is here that he is supposed to have
heard mass on his way to Bosworth. Some of the furnishings for the church have
been provided by the Richard III Society; the embroidered kneelers, with their
Page 17
symbolic references to Richard, were particularly popular with the group.
Several of us were also impressed by the fine alabaster effigy of Sir William
Roberts who died in 1633.
From Sutton Cheney it was a five-minute drive to the Battlefield Visitor Centre.
While the more energetic followed the marked trail around the whole
battlefield, most of us were happy to survey the scene from the top of Ambion
Hill and to visit King Dick’s Well. All of us, though, were very impressed with the
informative display at the visitor centre itself, which strikes an excellent
balance between general information about warfare in the middle ages and
specific details about the events leading up to Bosworth and the battle itself, as
well as its aftermath.
After an excellent lunch in the splendid
surroundings of the Centre’s Tithe Barn
Restaurant, complete with original
timbers (it started life in Derbyshire), it
was another short hop to St Margaret
of Antioch’s church at Stoke Golding.
Pevsner calls this fourteenth-century
church ‘one of the most beautiful
churches in Leicestershire’, and the
highlight for many was the arcade
between the nave and the aisle with
exquisite fluted carving together with
carved foliage and the odd human
heads that we find in medieval
churches. Close by the church is Crown
Hill, the traditional site where Henry
Tudor, earl of Richmond, was crowned
Figure 3 Ambion Hill
Henry VII after the battle, so it’s a
reasonable assumption that he must have given thanks to God in this church.
Our final visit of the day was to the unexpected gem of Donington le Heath
manor house. We travelled through the post-industrial landscape of
Leicestershire to find ourselves in an oasis of tranquillity: a house built seven
Page 18
hundred years ago, modernised in 1618, the home of Everard Digby, one of the
Gunpowder Plotters. Not only was the house itself of terrific interest, but there
were interesting displays within the rooms. Additionally, a seventeenth-century
garden had been laid out – the well-labelled herb garden was of great interest,
though the (unfamiliar?) Chaste Tree excited most interest. And to crown (so to
speak) a terrific day, the tearoom staff were persuaded to stay open an extra
hour solely for our benefit!
Figure 4 Donington le Heath manor house
Mike Headon
Day 3
After a dash through Leicestershire, we arrived at Newtown Linford church for
9.30 am where we received a warm welcome from the Church Warden, Sheila
Langton and the benefit of her fund of knowledge.
The history of the church has been influenced by its association with the Grey
family and the Bradgate Estate. Lady Jane Grey, whose brief reign as Queen Jane
lasted just nine days, is probably the most famous member of the family and the
east window in the church is a memorial to Lady Jane, donated in 1915 by Mrs
Katherine Grey.
Page 19
The chancel beam carries the Royal Arms of George I (1714-1727) and was later
updated during George III's reign by adding the Royal cypher 'G.R.III' above the
central crown. On either side of the panel are round shields bearing the arms of
the earls of Stamford, who later acquired the title earl of Warrington through
marriage. On the north wall is the Millennium Map, a project undertaken by a
group of local artists led by John Nixon. It shows the village and nearby
Bradgate Park as they were in 2000.
Then followed a walk into Bradgate Park, a large area of grassland and heath
dotted with small woods, plantations and rocky outcrops. There is a fallow deer
sanctuary at the south end and everyone saw deer close to as well as far off. It
was emparked in 1241 and by the fourteenth century possessed walls, ditches,
heys and palings managed by rangers. The Greys completed a mansion in 1501,
that by 1800 lay in ruins, the Greys having moved to Enville Hall in
Staffordshire. The ruins however are impressive, reminding one of Hampton
Court. In 1925, Charles Bennion, a local industrialist, bought the estate and
donated the park to the people of Leicester. There are many ancient pollarded
oaks, reputedly pollarded by the foresters on hearing of the beheading of Lady
Jane Grey in 1554.
Figure 5 Breedon on the Hill church and bystander
On to Beacon Hill (814ft/248m) which provides superb all-round views of the
surrounding countryside (including Mount St. Bernard Abbey reflecting the
morning sunshine) which was our next port of call. We were standing on crags
Page 20
that are amongst the oldest rocks in Britain, a mixture of igneous and
metamorphic some 600-700 million years old. Longhorn cattle were grazing the
hair grass and fescues thereby controlling invasive vegetation. Traces of a
Bronze Age hill-fort were visible and although excavation has not taken place,
two spearheads, a socketed axe and an axe mould were found in the twentieth
century.
Mount St. Bernard's Abbey was built on land donated to the Cistercian Order in
1835 with a further donation in 1839. A.W. Pugin began work on a Gothic-style
building only completed late in the twentieth century. An impressive, light airy
nave invites one to rest a while in the church while further abbey buildings were
of significant interest.
After a good lunch at the Copt Oak, we were off to Breedon on the Hill church
dedicated to St Mary and St Hardulph. This building stands on a limestone hill
that has been extensively quarried but is isolated from present habitation. The
hill has traces of a deep ditch and bank of an Iron Age fort. In the seventh
century, the Anglo-Saxon Chronicles mention a monastery there and the
present church contains some wonderful, significant Anglo-Saxon carved stones,
now set into the church walls. The stones behind the altar are a run of 18ft.
Evidence of steps now under the east end of the chancel was found in the
twentieth century but this was never investigated further – could they possibly
lead to a Saxon crypt?
Figure 6 Anglo-Saxon stonework
The Saxon church c.675 AD appears to have been sacked in 874 AD by the Danes
but by the twelfth century, there was a new Augustinian church and buildings
on the site, together with a market place. It remained inhabited by a Prior and
several canons until it was surrendered to Henry VIII in 1539. The Shirley family
Page 21
of Staunton Harold bought the Priory as a burial site for their family and the
local parishioners asked if it might replace their decrepit church, also on the hill
top that probably contained Anglo-Saxon remains.
Figure 7 Anglo-Saxon carving
The present church consists of a twelfth century west tower, the thirteenth
century nave built by the Augustinians as a chancel and fifteenth century aisles
and windows. The interior contains three Shirley tombs in the north aisle and
the Shirley pew – a highly carved 'wooden room within a room'. For more
details, see Simon Jenkins' England's Thousand Best Churches (2012). And
hence to Cheshire, Wales and Lancashire.
Our thanks to the Johnsons and the Taylors for their excellent organisation –
and the fine weather!
Katie and Bob Percival
Page 22
A Day of Discovery
Six of us met together mid-morning in Nantwich Museum with Julie Smalley to
learn to read the local urban landscape. Nantwich, being a small town, was ideal
for our task of discovering the townscape by means of ‘walking the territory’. We
were given the routes for three different circuits of self-guided walks – an
ecclesiastical walk, a river walk and a town square walk – together with a simple
map and a guide along with a historical trail booklet. However the latter came
with the recommendation not to be tempted to look into it before the walks but
to depend for interpretation on observation. After a helpful talk from Julie on
how to note evidence and a further study of various historical maps we began our
investigation.
We split naturally into pairs and followed our chosen routes through the day with
an agreed meeting at lunchtime (a picnic on Mill Island) to discuss findings and
raise any questions with Julie, and a plenary session in the afternoon to share and
collate discoveries.
Our little map gave us the outline of the town with the River Weaver on the west
side, the parish church of St Mary and the Town Square in the centre with the
area between possibly the site of the Castle – the only remnant being Castle
Street itself and the slight incline. The town did not seem to be laid out in any
deliberate pattern but the roads appeared to radiate out north and south around
the town centre from the junction by the bridge leading over the River Weaver.
Immediately we stepped out of the Museum it was noticeable how the names of
streets gave an indication of possible original use or activity: ‘Pillory Street’ still
had its stocks (though now a modern replica); ‘Cocoa Yard’ commemorates the
nineteenth-century Cocoa House in the area, its position recorded on a plaque;
‘Hospital Street’ has a commemoration, to the site of the old Hospice of St
Nicholas of 1083; ‘The Gullet’, a side street, could indicate its origin as a passage
between the Hospice and St Mary’s; ‘Monk’s Walk’ led to St Mary’s from South
Crofts, possibly a site in medieval times of husbandry.
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The other most apparent feature on the walks was the historic nature of so
many buildings. Almost immediately on turning onto Hospital Street from the
Cocoa Yard was Kiltearn House, apparently of Georgian date but actually
originally medieval with Tudor features (as recounted by the owner, who we
met accidentally). Further along many little modern looking shops such as ‘Wall
Street’ and ‘Hair 38’ were found on investigation inside to be of a much earlier
date with their low ceilings and windows. Time and again ‘coach entrances’
could be seen leading to yards, one being particularly imposing with pilasters
either side of the gateway with carved silver painted capitals. A really
interesting building was the ‘Yesteryear Grocer’s Shoppe’ which we found on
entering to be a long burgage type plot. Of course there were also the well
known buildings too, such as the late fifteenth-century ‘Sweetbriar Hall’ and
‘Churche’s Mansion’ of 1577, both of which fortunately escaped the Great Fire
of Nantwich’ in 1583 and the grade 1 listed ‘Crown Hotel’ which was built in an
equally decorative style in 1585 following the Great Fire.
Figure 1 Sweetbriar Hall
There were many references to past occupations and usage such as in Weaver
House and Weaver Bank; in the continuing use of ‘wych’ (salt) in ‘Ye Old Wych
Theatre’ and ‘Wych House’; in the areas known as ‘Oat Market’ and ‘Swine
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Market’. Pepper Street was suggestive of the trade in spice, probable here as
Nantwich was on the main coaching road between London and Chester, hence
all the coach gateways and coaching inns such as the eighteenth century Union
Inn and the Crown Hotel. Also of interest, especially to anyone from Chester,
were the roads called ‘Row’, such as ‘Pratchets Row’ and ‘Bowers Row’. Did
that mean that particular occupations congregated there? It was fascinating to
learn later in our guide that Pepper Street was once called ‘Ratunrowe’ because
it was infested by rats! I was also intrigued by the little passageways off the
main streets such as ‘Pall Mall’ and ‘Spring Gardens’ which possibly indicate the
past aspirations of the local communities.
Figure 2 Crown Hotel in former times
(reproduced with permission of the Crown Hotel)
It was a day full of interest and surprises. The individual walks had been timed
to take no more than three quarters of an hour but it was very difficult to keep
to that timekeeping. In our mid-afternoon discussion each group unsurprisingly
seemed to have noticed different features such as the Fire Mural at the Post
Office or the unusual decoration on the frontage of the Lloyds TSB building.
What we were all agreed on, though, was that it had been a very enjoyable day
of discovery and our thanks went to Julie for organising it and introducing us to
some of the skills that help us to read our landscape.
Gillian Langrick
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The Year Ahead ...
Lecture Programme
21 January 2013
[Please note this is the 3rd Monday in the month]
Land tenure and land charter in Anglo-Saxon England
Philip Holdsworth
Philip Holdsworth read Anglo-Saxon, Norse and Celtic at Cambridge and his
principal interests have been the history, art and culture of the early middle
ages. During the 1970s he was director of the Southampton Archaeological
Research Committee and in 1980 was invited to set up the Manchester
Archaeology Unit by the late Barrie Jones. He subsequently became director of
the Scottish Urban Archaeological Trust and later county archaeologist for
Cumbria. Before retirement he taught history at Stirling University. He is a
Fellow of the Society of Antiquaries and a Fellow of the Royal Historical Society.
The Anglo-Saxon charter, or Royal Diploma, is a document written in Latin and
on a single sheet, dated, witnessed and composed according to convention. It is
a record of a grant of land and of privileges over land, made by a king (or later
by a high ranking ecclesiastic by authority of a king) to a named beneficiary. In
addition to being the sole source of information about types of land tenure,
charters also inform on kingship and royal power, the development of royal
government, the composition of the king's council and aspects of the legal
system. There are around 1000 surviving royal diplomas of which about 150 are
in original form and the remainder copies or antiquarian transcripts. A still
useful, short introduction to the subject (though inevitably dated in some
respects) is The Latin Charters of the Anglo-Saxon Period by F.M. Stenton
(Oxford 1955 and reprinted). For advances in the subject in more recent times a
bibliographical search of the works of Professor Nicholas Brooks and Professor
Simon Keynes is recommended.
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25 February 2013
History in the raking - discovering Cheshire’s historic designed landscapes
Barbara Moth
Barbara is Cheshire Gardens Trust’s Research and Recording Coordinator.
Cheshire Gardens Trust is a registered charity run entirely by volunteers. As
Coordinator Barbara has worked with groups of research and recording
volunteers to develop a research and recording handbook, provide introductory
sessions, training and support, and issued completed research and recording
reports to owners, custodians, Cheshire Archives and Local Studies, Cheshire
Historic Environment Record and local authorities. Barbara retired last year
from practice as a landscape architect specialising in the conservation of
historic landscapes.
Raking is a very good way to describe the work of Cheshire Gardens Trust
volunteers who research and record the less well known historic parks and
gardens of the county. Through a combination of desktop and archival
research, site investigation and recording, and listening to local people
volunteers uncover the layers of history and draw together the story of how
these sites have developed and changed to become the places we see today.
The talk will aim to demonstrate the richness and diversity of these historic
landscapes, an often underrated and unrecognised part of our heritage that
contributes enormously to Cheshire’s attractive and varied character. A
selection of sites will be used to illustrate evidence of historic boundaries,
adaptation of physical terrain, use of local materials, and the importance of
elevation, views and transport in the location of residences. The role of
designers, cartographers, nurserymen, and gardeners in their recording,
creation and survival will be covered too.
25 March 2013
Pontcysyllte - its place in history
Barrie Trinder
Dr Barrie Trinder is a writer on social and industrial history, whose academic
career included spells at the Ironbridge Institute and the University of
Northampton. He has published extensively on the Ironbridge area, but has
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also written books that are nationally-focused, including The Making of the
Industrial Landscape (1997), and he edited the Blackwell Encyclopedia of
Industrial Archaeology (1992), the first international review of the subject. He
was principally responsible for writing the historical sections of the designation
documents for three UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Great Britain, including
that for the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct and the canal that passes over it. A major
work, Britain’s Industrial Revolution: the making of a Manufacturing People is
due to be published by Carnegie in March 2013. He now lives in active
retirement at Olney, Bucks.
The Pontcysyllte aqueduct is always accorded a place amongst the outstanding
monuments of the Industrial Revolution, but just what that means is not always
readily apparent. The aqueduct belonged to a canal company that in
commercial terms was not outstandingly successful. Its significance in the
history of construction cannot be ignored yet no other iron aqueduct of similar
size was ever built. It was also part of the complex historical landscape of the
Vale of Llangollen, and the product of a particular moment in British history,
when the nation was weary of war, yet ready to applaud the achievements of
the leaders of the first phase of the Industrial Revolution.
29 April 2013
Medieval parks and other early enclosures in Derbyshire
Mary Wiltshire
Having taken a Masters in Local History and Topography at the University of
Leicester when Professor W.G. Hoskins was there in the late 1960s, Mary
lectured for a year or two before pursuing a career in Special Education. She
returned to researching landscape history in Derbyshire in her retirement and
has co-authored two books, Duffield Frith (2005) and Medieval Parks in
Derbyshire (2009) as well as some published articles. Most recently she has
updated a gazetteer of Local Maps of Derbyshire c.1528–1800 for the
Derbyshire Record Society.
This illustrated talk will focus on medieval parks and hays as examples of early
enclosures in the Derbyshire landscape, the reasons for making them, their
construction and what features can still be seen in the landscape today.
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30 September 2013
The Anthea Allen Lecture
Monastic farm buildings
James Bond
James Bond was trained as an historical geographer at the University of
Birmingham and subsequently worked as Archaeological Field Officer for
Worcestershire County Museum (1969-74) and as Assistant Keeper of the Field
Section of Oxfordshire County Council’s Department of Museum Services (1974
-86). Since 1986 he has lived in North Somerset, working freelance as a
landscape archaeologist. He has served as an external tutor for a dozen
different universities, and has published several books and numerous papers on
aspects of the medieval landscape. His most recent book, Monastic Landscapes
(2004, reissued 2010) reflects an interest in the impact of medieval monasteries
upon the landscape through the management of their estates.
His talk will consider the interaction between documentary and field evidence
in the investigation of one particular aspect of monastic land management, the
construction of agricultural buildings. Among these, the great monastic barns
take pride of place, but other structures to be explored will include granaries,
stables, cowsheds, sheepcotes and dovecotes.
28 October 2013
The landscape of the Staffordshire Hoard
Dr Della Hooke
Della Hooke is an Honorary Fellow of the University of Birmingham (with a PhD
in historical geography) and has published widely on the Anglo-Saxon
landscape: The Anglo-Saxon Landscape: the kingdom of the Hwicce (reprinted
2009); The Landscape of Anglo-Saxon England (1998); various books on preConquest charters, and most recently Trees in Anglo-Saxon England - literature,
lore and landscape (2010).
Her talk will concentrate upon the Staffordshire Hoard that was found by metal
detector in a field in Ogley Hay, near Brownhills, in 2009, and which has proved
to be one of the most magnificent collections of Anglo-Saxon metalwork ever
found. She has made a special study of the landscape of the region in which
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the hoard was found which incidentally was the neighbourhood where she
actually lived as a child. In her talk she will attempt to discuss the unknowns:
What is the hoard? Who put it there? Why? When?
25 November 2013
What’s in a name?
Place names, Surnames and the Viking settlements of Wirral
Stephen Harding
Stephen Harding was born and brought up in North Wirral where his family
have lived for many generations. He is now Professor of Applied Biochemistry
at the University of Nottingham. He combines his job as a scientist with his
passion for the Viking Heritage of Wirral and North West England and has coauthored several books and many popular and academic publications on the
subject, linked to his website on www.nottingham.ac.uk/-sczsteve. He was
recently honoured by King Harald V of Norway who made him a Knight of the
Royal Norwegian Order of Merit, the highest award for a foreign national who
is not a Head of State.
His talk is about the Wirral and the North West’s fascinating Viking heritage
focusing on place-names and archaeology. He will also consider the Wirral and
West Lancashire Genetics project which focused on men with surnames that
were present in both regions prior to 1600.
Field Visits Programme
Our Field Visits Programme this year is the result of members’
recommendations, and some of our guest speakers’ offers to walk the sites
outlined in their lectures. We also have the prospect of an unrepeatable
garden visit. Please indicate the visits you would like to make, using the
attached/enclosed booking form. We ask you not to send money at this stage,
but only when your place on the visit is confirmed. Please note there may be
additional charges on some visits.
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Thursday 2 May 2013
An early evening walking tour around Civil War Chester
Leader: Professor Peter Gaunt
Our early evening walk will include the northern stretch of city walls and, if
possible, the King Charles Tower (currently under long-term repair). Walking
through parts of the city centre there is little by way of pre-civil war building,
but plenty from the post-civil war decades, reflecting the extent of rebuilding
after the damage of that period. We hope to include a visit to St John’s (if
open), view the repaired stretch of wall from the Roman Garden and look at
the damage to the exterior of the wall tower. While the castle acted as a
magazine and store for the royalist garrison it did not play a particularly active
role, so will not be part of this tour. The story of Chester’s civil war, from the
uncertainty of summer 1642 to the surrender to parliament of the shattered
city in early 1646, will be told en route.
This visit of just over a mile will involve some climbing up onto and down from
the walls and some wall walking. Our leader, Peter Gaunt, will take us at an
unhurried pace to see these sites, tell their story and answer questions.
Afterwards, we will be able to continue with questions and discussions over
refreshments in Chester.
Saturday 4 May 2013
The former pleasure gardens at Brogyntyn near Oswestry
Leader: Jessie Hanson
This afternoon visit offers members a rare chance to experience the grounds of
Brogyntyn Hall. The eighteenth century hall, once the home of the OrmsbyGore’s, is currently in private hands. The nineteenth-century landscape park,
terracing and formal gardens are listed on the English Heritage Register of Parks
and Gardens of Specific Historic Interest and contain a number of interesting
features. A torch is recommended for those members who wish to investigate
a particularly unusual garden feature!
The visit will be led by well-known local historian Jessie Hanson. Why not join
us for afternoon tea following what promises to be an interesting visit.
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Sunday 19 May 2013
A geological walk around Farndon & Holt
Leader: Professor Cynthia Burek
This afternoon walk along the River Dee on both the Welsh and English sides
looks at the present landscape in the context of the older environments
preserved in the rocks. We will consider why the present landscape in this area
is as it is and look at conservation sites and their status on both sides of the
border.
The Triassic rocks in this area give a red colour to the landscape. We will see
what we can deduce by a closer look at the components of the rocks. We will
look at why the cliffs on the Farndon side are there to start with and how they
influence the habitats as well as the landscape. We will address the questions:
What are they made of? How old are they? What environments in the past do
they represent? We will be detectives for a while and try to read the rocks,
fluvial, urban and cultural landscapes. The walk will be led by Cynthia Burek
who is a tutor for the Open University in Wales as well as Professor of
Geoconservation in the Department of Biological Sciences at the University of
Chester.
Sunday 9 June 2013
The Great Orme and The Copper Mines
Leader: Sally Pidcock, Ranger
Our visit will start at the top of The Great Orme, at the Visitor Centre at 11.00
am. Following a video of the area, we will walk round the northern headland,
exploring ancient sites, limestone pavements, Second World War gun batteries
and medieval field strips. This walk will take about two hours.
The drive up to the Visitor Centre via Marine Drive (toll road) gives the keen
geologist the chance to see the rock formations in the cliffs and the route takes
you past St Tudno’s church that is well worth a visit at some point during the
day. For members who wish to travel up by tram, more information will be
provided nearer the time.
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After lunch, our party will move down to the Copper Mines for an excellent selfguided walk of the Bronze Age site and the chance to find out about the more
recent excavations.
There will be additional charges for this visit of around £8.00 per person. All
the sites can be accessed by car but this visit offers plenty of walking and great
views on a clear day!
Saturday 22 June 2013
The President’s Visit: In and Around North Shropshire
Leader: Professor Emeritus Graeme White
This visit marks a departure from recent ‘President’s Visits’ by taking in a
number of smaller settlements rather than focusing on one large one. All are
close to Cheshire’s southern border and most are served by one or another
branch of the Shropshire Union canal.
We begin at Audlem, a medieval market centre with a seventeenth-century
grammar school, which prospered from its proximity to the Birmingham and
Liverpool branch of the canal. We follow the line of the canal from here to
Market Drayton, notable for its layout as a medieval borough, its half-timbered
buildings and (again) its canalside structures. After lunch we head south-west
to Moreton Corbet castle, with its adjacent church, where there are spectacular
remains of both the medieval fortification and the Elizabethan mansion which
replaced it. From there we proceed to Ellesmere, set beside a large glacial
mere, another significant canal town where there are also the remains of a
motte and bailey castle. We finish at the most northerly village in Shropshire,
Grindley Brook, just off the A41 between Malpas and Whitchurch, where there
is a staircase of locks.
The visit begins at 10.00 a.m. at Audlem church in the centre of the village and
should conclude about 5.00 p.m.
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Saturday 13 July 2013
The Greenfield Valley Area: Its nautical, commercial, industrial, mining,
ecclesiastical, gambling and slavery connections.
Leaders: Monty & Hilary Cordwell
We will first view the Greenfield Dock, the main commercial outlet for the
valley and travel up the valley viewing Basingwerk Abbey before examining the
dams and remains of the copper, lead, zinc, brass and cotton industry, the old
railway track to Holywell, St Winifreds Well (a place of pilgrimage for many
centuries where miraculous cures by immersion may be had) learning as we go
of the people whose energy, initiative, convictions and money made this valley
such a vibrant place in its day.
Please note that detailed arrangements will be emailed/sent in advance of
each visit.
Residential Visit
Follow the Arrow, the Lugg and the Wye
September 10 - 12, 2013
Leaders: Jennifer and Mike Kennerley
These rivers of Herefordshire will frame our exploration of the landscapes of
this quiet county. We will be based on the south side of Hereford, though we
will not be venturing into the city centre. The River Arrow joins the River Lugg
in the north of the county and they flow south to meet with the River Wye,
travelling from Wales in the west, just to the east of Hereford. So we'll see
what we can discover of their confluence and influence - without a boat!
The Society has visited this part of the world before; on its first residential trip
in 1988, members stayed individually around the 'black and white' villages. This
time we will revisit the village of Weobley and the Church of St Mary and St
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Figure 1 Weobley
David at Kilpeck, where recent studies should reveal new insights.
However our journeying this time will take us to places relating to the rivers: to
Westonbury Water Gardens on a tributary of the River Arrow (look on their
website for the plants they will have on sale!); to 'the oldest triple-expansion
pumping engine in the United Kingdom' at the Waterworks Museum by the
River Wye in Hereford (hopefully with engines in full steam!). Away from the
water, we hope to visit Hellens Manor with nooks and crannies, a dovecote in
Tudor/Jacobean style gardens, and Westons cider makers in Much Marcle.
Figure 2 Hereford Wye Bridge
Around these visits and in the evenings, we will look at the influence of the
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rivers as they flow and flood and make
an impression on their surroundings.
We will be staying at the Three
Counties Hotel on Belmont Road,
Hereford, which has its own history,
starting life as a motel. Many of the
rooms are on the ground floor, and
there is plenty of car parking space
within the grounds. Our stay will
include dinner, bed and breakfast
from Tuesday September 10 to
Thursday morning, September 12. We
will meet for lunch on the Tuesday,
and part company during Thursday
afternoon.
The cost should not
exceed £160 per person in a shared
double/twin room, and £180 for a
Figure 3 Kilpeck dog and rabbit
single use room. This price will include
entrance fees and necessary payments, but please note there may be extra
costs for food and car parking.
Meandering around Herefordshire with the Wye, the Lugg and the Arrow
should reveal beautiful landscapes and some of their history. It could be that
we will follow in the footsteps of the Siluri, who lived there many moons ago
and whose name means (according to Theophilus Jones, the historian of
Brecknockshire) ‘The Lovers of Landscape or Fine Views’.
Deadline for the return of booking forms is:

Residential Visit 2013 - Friday 8 February 2013

Field Visits - Monday 11 February 2013
© Chester Society for Landscape History, 2012
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